PoeGo Travel Bazaar 2019 by Poe Go

PoeGo THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF

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Carry-on Essentials P. 16

Suggy Talks Shop

FEBRUARY 9

OUR THIRD YEAR OF BRINGING YOU THE BAZAAR

WINTER / SPRING 2019

Dear Traveler WHO NEEDS CELL RECEPTION WITH THIS VIEW?

The Travel Bazaar is almost here— and it’s bigger and better than ever! Join us Saturday, February 9th at the Capital Hotel as we welcome almost 30 of our colleagues from around the world. This edition of Poe Go is devoted to the vendors attending the event. It’s your chance to have the world at your fingertips. DO NOT MISS IT! In these pages, you’ll also find reports from our agents, who are out there in the field and on the plains (and on funiculars and in helicopters ) searching out the best travel experiences around the globe. Certain destinations are on our radar for 2019: namely Egypt, Romania, Brittany, and Japan. Romania is a stand-out, and we predict it will be the hot-spot of the new year. Go now before everyone else catches on! From Schloss Elmau to Wolf Lodge to Villa Åmot to celebrating Tina Poe’s 80th birthday at L’Oustau de Baumanière to the Hôtel Le Manoir on Port Cros, Ellison had an active 2018. In Margaret’s 2018 travels, she’s gone from coast to coast, sampling the sublime wines of Napa’s Promontory Winery and the toothsome lobster rolls of coastal Maine along the way (with a Salt Lake City stop in between). Margaret also attended DUCO, the premier Italian trade show, in Florence where she received a comprehensive debriefing on all that’s new and enticing in Italian travel.

We believe whole heartedly that travel not only expands your horizons, but also offers the opportunity to grow in compassion. It’s a way of fostering a connectedness with our fellow citizens of the world; it’s a bridge—not a wall—builder. In that spirit, we’d like to share some developing news in the airline industry. Now more than ever, US travelers are venturing beyond our borders in search of new and exotic locales, and the airlines have responded to this demand in the most exciting of ways. You can now access emerging or previously hardto-reach destinations with greater ease. We are loving these new air routes! (And there are plenty more): Philadelphia to Dubrovnik, Berlin, and Bologna; New York JFK to Nairobi; Washington Dulles to Tel Aviv; Los Angeles to Buenos Aires; and Chicago to Auckland. On a practical note, if you have not yet applied for Global Entry don’t wait another minute—we cannot stress this enough. It is the best thing since sliced bread (with French butter). So, remember, dear Travelers, we urge you as always to Please Go Away! Sincerely, Margaret & Ellison

3 T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

- ON? Y R R A OUR C Y N I S ’ WHAT Comfortable walking shoes! beth walter

Eye makeup remover (3 oz bottle), Apple Converter, curling iron, and almonds. nancy o’brien

Chapstick. angela simon (She likes to keep it simple.)

ose Water Face Mist, R Aquaphor for lips, Lysol wipes, hand sanitizer, makeup wipes, a jacket, and socks. ann mcferran

eadphones. I need my music H when I fly! kristin tewhill

A good book. I usually travel with at least one I’m currently reading plus one of the Harry Potter books. It’s sort of a superstition of mine! breana steele

Send us your carry-on must-haves! @POETRAVEL

( A note: Make sure headphones are compatible with the in-flight entertainment system!)

The word “essential” is subjective, perhaps even more so when it comes to air travel. That’s why we’d like to share with you our carry-on musts, lest you be caught out in the cold (which you WON’T be if you pack an oversized scarf). In addition to the items here, you might want to throw some patience in there, too. These days, one needs it.

lodging we love

Go Once... Gauguin

agent reports

14 experiences 15

Tiger Balm and a camera. stacey svendsen I simply cannot travel without my Merino Wool travel wrap. It’s a versatile staple piece that can function as a blanket, sleep mask, neck pillow, or even a sheet. It’s also a wardrobe accent piece that keeps you cool in the heat and warm in the cold. cassie crane

Scotland with Original Travel

16 Suggy Talks Shop We sat down with long-time friend of Poe Travel, David Sugden. He gave us the low-down about the latest safari craze: Gorilla Trekking.

27 sketchbook

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Lodging We Love Go once . . . Gauguin

Paradise found: Vahine Island

Fulfilling all your French Polynesian fantasies, intimate private-isle hotel Vahine Island (aka Island of the Women) offers barefoot luxe, with just nine romantic bungalows fringed by coconut trees and dreamy lagoon views. Go snorkeling, sea kayaking, or outrigger canoeing, then let yourself be lulled into languor by the sun, swaying hammock and superb, simple meals on the sand. Further afield, explore nearby Taha’a Island’s pearl farm, vanilla plantations, and historic Polynesian sites.

Two Poe peeps just returned from an unforgettable honeymoon in French Polynesia, singing the praises of beautiful Vahine Island. Herewith, a postcard from the South Pacific.

Ellison & Team, Kent and I had a honeymoon of a lifetime!!! It was all that we had hoped for and more!

TO TA K E

Reef shoes and a rash shirt if yo plan on taking part in aquatic u activities and your tune-loaded iPod for lengthy sunlounger sessions.

Thank you!!! It’s hard to know where to start . . . everywhere we looked was like a postcard. For us it was the perfect

combination of relaxing with opportunities to stay as busy as we wanted. Elisabeth and Pierre are AMAZING hosts with a fantastic team—always friendly, always smiling and willing to help with anything we may have needed .

TO LE A V E B E H IN D

. . the food—crazy good EVERY meal, every menu item we had. . . . The best way to describe it was

All your troubles.

SUNSET AT VAHINE

pristine luxury with a family feel. We snorkeled, fished, toured neighboring Taha’a Island, kayaked, paddle boarded, and made sure the hammocks were comfortable ;). We loved feeding

the fish through our bungalow floor . . . We had a hard time saying goodbye to our new friends! We met several great couples— most there for honeymoons or anniversaries. Many were island hopping with only a couple/few nights on Vahine, and we were so

glad we planned to just stay put! To all of you—MANY THANKS and (hugs) for making our trip SO incredible! —Tricia Ashby & Kent Wetzler

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WHO GNU?

We sat down with Ann to ask her three lightning fast questions about her trip. Did you have a favorite animal sighting or activity? The baby lion cubs were definitely my favorite. As for activities, the horseback riding among zebras was awesome.

ANN MCFERRAN

HAVE YOU HERD? Field notes on Ann McFerran’s first safari After touching down in Nairobi, Ann met up with longtime Poe pals and colleagues Suggy and Karen Sugden of Africa House. At their home in Nakuru, Ann mingled with the Sugden’s rescue donkeys, before heading off to famed Giraffe Manor to breakfast with giraffes and meet up with her group. Before embarking on safari, Ann also toured the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust elephant sanctuary, Kazuri Bead Factory, and the Karen Blixen Museum—all edifying experiences. Ann et al. then headed north to Solio Lodge, located on a private wildlife sanctuary tucked in the valley between Mount Kenya and the Aberdare Mountains. It’s the only lodge on the incredible 45,000-acre Solio Game Reserve (internationally recognized as the most successful private rhino breeding reserve in Kenya). There they took part in game drives, bush breakfasts, and sundowners (dawas on the deck by a roaring fire—yes, please). They also got a feel for the land and their environs by horseback riding, walking, and biking on the ranch. Next stop—Sasaab, close to the Buffalo

Springs and Samburu National Reserves, in Kenya’s Northern Frontier District. It’s a place of rich natural diversity with an astounding number of animals from huge majestic elephant to lion, leopard, and cheetah and the “Samburu Special Five” (which sounds like a pop group but is actually the Beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Gerenuk antelope, and Somali ostrich). In addition to seeing a myriad of animals, Ann’s group also rode bikes to the river for a Samburu dance experience and pre-dinner sundowners. Next day brought an early morning game drive in the reserve followed by a bush breakfast along the river bank. In the afternoon, they visited one of the neighboring villages to learn about the culture of the Samburu people. After that, you guessed it, more sundowners whilst taking in the remarkable views across the Laikipia Plateau and watching herds of elephant bathe in the river. Finally, on to Sala’s Camp, situated in the southern corner of Kenya’s mighty Masai Mara game reserve, close to the confluence of the Sand and Keekorok Rivers. Here, the location is the big draw. Close to Tanzania

with wonderful views of the Serengeti National Park, it is one of the first camps in the Mara to witness the legendary annual migration of wildebeest, which thunders by from June to September each year. Sala’s Camp also offers the best of the Masai Mara’s wildlife and birdlife year-round. The days shaped up something like this: breakfast in the bush, lunch on the plains, dip in the plunge pool, sundowners (whenever the mood strikes). Not bad. Asante sana, JCR (Janine Cifelli Representation), for making it all possible!

What’s one thing you learned on your trip? I learned that, contrary to popular belief, the difference between a white rhino and black rhino is not the color. It is the shape of its mouth! The white rhino has a flat wide mouth, and the black rhino has a pointed mouth. Black rhinos are harder to spot as they are not very social at all. We saw only one black rhino but saw hundreds of white ones. I also learned how to pack very efficiently, which is something I am not great at doing. Name an essential item on your packing list that you’re glad you included. Probably itch relief for bug bites. I should have packed tubes of liquid Benadryl. One woman (who remained bite-free) used Permethrin treatment on her clothes which lasts up to 6 weeks or 6 washes. Next time I’ll definitely do that.

9 FROM OUR CLIENTS

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FROM OUR TRAVELERS

Growing up, my family was creative and artistic, but I never pursued art until college when I took some elective art classes. After 40 years of traveling with my wife, I decided to try my hand at travel journal art. It has added another dimension to my traveling and provided a personal and unique way to capture lasting memories of our wonderful travel experiences. I prefer to work with pen and watercolor, and I continue to enjoy different variations of these mediums. My favorite trip would probably be Morocco. I was truly captivated by the people, traditions, landscape, and cuisine and our accommodations and guides were amazing.

KENT BLOCHBERGER Poe Traveler

Do you sketch as you travel?

Share your work with us!

THE BLOCHBERGER SKETCHES

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THE PANATAL

NANCY O’BRIEN

THE BEST OF BRAZIL Nancy O’Brien’s adventure with A&K As Nancy learned firsthand on a recent trip with Abercrombie & Kent, Brazil continues to be one of the world’s most captivating places—from its white-sand beaches and verdant rainforests to its spirited cities and frozen-in-time colonial towns. And, of course, there’s Brazil’s famed biodiversity; its ecosystems boast the greatest collection of plant and animal species found anywhere on earth. Highlights from Nancy’s spring 2018 adventure follow:

IGUAZU FALLS Nancy alighted at beautiful Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, the only hotel inside Brazil’s Iguazu National Park. There, one can sit on the restaurant terrace and savor a refreshing caipirinha while watching the sun set behind the cascading froth of the falls. An ice-cream pink colonial estate, this confection of a hotel has a breathtaking natural setting (and lush, manicured grounds). Nancy enjoyed a morning tour of the Argentine side of the falls and an afternoon tour of the Brazilian side.

RIO DE JANEIRO • T hey paid a visit to the iconic Belmond Copacabana Palace, the Art Deco grand dame that dates back to 1923 across from Ipanema Beach. Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire once graced its halls; now, the likes of Elton John, Madonna, and Nancy can be found lounging poolside. The group enjoyed the views and took in a sunset overlooking Sugarloaf Mountain. • A fter a morning rain, they made the obligatory pilgrimage to Christ the Redeemer followed by a nice brunch and tour of the world-renowned opera house (Theatro Municipal).

• N ancy et al. did some light shopping at some heavy hitters: Havaianas, Hering (department store), Mialegra (women’s’ clothing), Mr. Cat (shoes and accessories), Stern jewelers (“WAY too pushy”). • Fun was had and headdresses worn during the Carnival Experience Tour (a backstage look at how all that revelry and spectacle comes into being). • They took an excellent, sobering tour of the first favela (proceeds help impoverished children). • They explored the Santa Teresa area and peeked in the very boho, hip Sofitel hotel (Amy Winehouse was a guest). The area is full of Colonial homes that have been converted to boutique hotels (“a good area for second-time visitors”). • The crew had lunch at Assador Goucho where meats take center stage—though Nancy does report that they have a “beautiful salad bar and a delicious chocolate fudge/ice cream dessert.” • Some opted for a boat ride around the harbor.

After an epic journey via plane(s) and a three-hour car ride, the group arrived at the remote Caiman Ecological Refuge. Located deep within the sprawling Pantanal—the world’s largest wetland—inside an enormous private reserve, the lodge is part of a renowned private research, conservation, and ecotourism initiative that lies at the heart of a 130,000-acre sustainable cattle ranch. When the refuge was established, 10 percent of the ranch acreage was set aside as a private conservation area, off limits to cattle but open to visitors. (They also learned about famous Formula 1 race car driver, Mario Haberfield, who has now devoted his life to jaguar conservation.) Though they did not spot the elusive jaguar, they did see evidence of one in dramatic claw marks gouged into a bat tree. Nancy says that they saw a variety of other wildlife including: lots of caimans, capuchin monkeys, a capybara with three babies, and birds galore. “The place is a birder’s paradise,” reports Nancy. “The guides—all biologists and botanists—were excellent and well educated.” Nancy particularly enjoyed the nature walk and cowboy demonstration with a garrulous cowboy named Guanana. “I loved the cowboys. They are SO cool. It is an art passed down from one generation to the next—the culture reflects 200 years of melded Portuguese, indigenous, and Paraguayan tradition. The horses come by voice commands, and the cows respond to voice commands that sound the same but are subtly different. It’s amazing.” Other activities included: a morning jaguar trek, canoe tour, safari talk, and a visit to Projeto Apara Azul (a center dedicated to conservation of the great blue macaw).

other place in the world where the culture of those brought as slaves from Africa has been preserved as it has been in Salvador— from music and religion to food, dance, and martial-arts traditions. Nancy loved their guide, Conor O’Sullivan, an Irish ex-pat and long-term Salvador resident. “It’s a very energetic, bohemian city, and its ties to Portugal remain very important. The people are really what make it the place that it is. . . . The music was wonderful. We even got to join in on a drum session!” enthuses Nancy. They also: • Saw a performance by the worldrenowned Balé Folclórico da Bahia. The only professional folk dance company in Brazil, the troupe of dancers, musicians,

•

SALVADOR DA BAHIA Once the magnificent capital of Portugal’s New World colony, today Salvador is the pulsating heart of the country’s AfroBrazilian community. Its brilliantly hued center is a living museum of 17th- and 18th-century architecture and gold-laden churches. Wild festivals are frequent as are groups of musicians erupting into song (with drum corps pounding out rhythms against the backdrop of colonial buildings). Elsewhere in town, a different spirit flows as crowds of religious adherents celebrate and reconnect with African gods at Candomblé ceremonies (see below). In fact, there’s no

•

and singers performs a repertory based on a “Bahian” folkloric dances of African origin that includes slave dances, capoeira, samba, and those that celebrate Carnival. “It’s frenetic, intense, and fabulous. You’re literally on the edge of your seat with excitement. This was definitely one of the highlights of the trip.” Visited several churches, including the baroque Church of St. Francis (Igreja e Convento São Francisco), one of Brazil’s most magnificent. Completed in 1723, it has an enormous silver chandelier that hangs over ornate wood carvings in gold leaf and a courtyard paneled with hand-painted azulejos (Portuguese tiles). Visited the Afro-Brazilian Museum and saw teakwood panels carved by the artist Carybé. Explored Pelourinho, the Historic Center, named a world cultural center by UNESCO. Took a cooking class with Chef Mataos at the wildly-colored home of artist Maria Adair. They visited a local market with him where he pointed out handicrafts and produce, the Pope’s favorite coffee, chocolate, little limes native to the area, and nut stands. Nancy got to taste fresh nuts like cashews and reports, “They don’t taste anything like the nuts you get from the store. These are so flavorful, meaty, and fresh. Just totally different.” Attended a Candomblé ceremony. The heart of Salvador’s African heritage, Candomblé is a religion formed by the slaves brought to Brazil between the 16th and 19th centuries. Worshippers believe in one supreme god, and a number of orishas, or minor deities, to whom they pray for blessings

and protection. For a long time, the open practice of Candomblé was prohibited and worshippers hid their faith within the Catholic religion that was forced upon them. Many of the Catholic saints were syncretized with the orishas of Candomblé, allowing people to attend mass and practice both religions simultaneously. In recent years the practice of Candomblé has gained wider acceptance and there are now over 1,000 terreiros (temples) in Salvador alone. The crowd was diverse. An elderly high priestess oversaw the ceremony in which people young and old danced wildly and shouted spontaneously to the constant rhythm of drums. It is said that the deities take possession of the dancers, working them into a trance-like state. It’s an intense, mesmerizing spectacle. “A WOW experience,” says Nancy.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Brazilian people are beautiful, stylish . . . warm and friendly.

TIME TO GO: It was cold! The prime time is June to October.

GOOD TO KNOW: • The infrastructure is poor. Expect some long travel days. • There’s less and less English spoken as you get into the interior. • Hiring a car and driver in Rio is a must.

A SHOUT OUT: Thank you to the A&K crew: Mikael Castro, Cathy Moran, Conor O’Sullivan, and Rodrigo Winterstein, THE BEST GUIDE EVER!

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• Moab, Utah—a bust. Part of being a good travel advisor is navigating road blocks, both literal and figurative, and sometimes dealing with disappointment. “We expected to see a picturesque old western town and instead found billboards and run-down motels,” reports Nancy. “It has great appeal to people who want to float rivers, kayak, bicycle, and motorcycle in the canyons, but it wasn’t for us. However, we loved Arches National Park.” • Canyonlands National Park—“Nice, but there were others we liked more.” • The Four Corners—“The boys really wanted to go to Four Corners where Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, and Colorado meet. The monument was hard to find, and we made many U-turns, but finally arrived. Yet another treat was meeting a couple who spend half the year running a local gift shop near Four Corners, and the other half in Paris. You never know who you will meet!”

NANCY O’BRIEN

WESTWARD HO WITH FAMILY IN TOW Nancy O’Brien’s great American road trip Nancy O’Brien recently loaded up the woodpaneled station wagon (Dodge Durango, actually) and headed west with her grandsons for a fun family road trip that exceeded expectations. In early July, Nancy, Hagen, and Koen (14 and 12) hopped in the Dodge Durango with Flagstaff in their sights.

HERE’S A CHRONOLOGICAL RUNDOWN OF THE GREAT AMERICAN SUMMER ROAD TRIP 2018. MEMORIES WERE MADE, FUNYUNS WERE EATEN . . . • But first, Amarillo: a jumping off point for many a trip west. • Flagstaff, where they picked up a cousin. (The more the merrier! Unless you’re talking backpackers or flies—see below.) • Much meandering along Historic Route 66 with a stop at a Teepee Gift Shop and an all-important lesson on the history of “The Mother Road.”

• First National Park stop—Petrified Forrest where some trees date back over 200 million years. • The South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park, where they stayed at Maswick Lodge, a National Park Lodge located a short walk from the South Rim. In the afternoon they walked around the canyon rim and saw a Navajo Indian Bird dance. One thing a savvy travel advisor knows is that it’s important to make room for spontaneity. Nancy says, “We originally planned to stay two nights at Maswick but decided to go to the North rim instead. As the crow flies, it’s about a mile from South to North rim, but it’s a four-hour drive. On the way, we met an Old Navajo woman at Vermillion Cliffs selling jewelry who gave the boys a (lengthy) lesson about sharing.” • Grand Canyon Lodge—”We watched a storm roll in and cozied up with hot chocolate,” says Nancy.

• Knabe, UT, and a drive to Bryce Canyon National Park where they marveled at the many crimson-colored hoodoos. (Hoodoos are not, in fact, a Little Debbie snack; they are bizarre ancient rock formations. Who knew?) • A 30-mile drive to Mt. Zion National Park for the day. “We saw more hikers and backpackers than I have seen in my life,” says Nancy. • The Great Salt Lake, where they were prevented from floating by swarms of tenacious sand flies. Nancy recalls, “We were unable to swim, but viewing the lake from Antelope Island was beautiful—and fly free.” • Salt Lake City, where they enjoyed a live Sunday performance by the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, a visit to Park City, and a ski lift ride.

• They decided to diverge from their planned itinerary and go to Mesa Verde National Park and stay a night in Durango at the historic Strater Hotel. “We were unable to ride on the Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge Train but decided we liked Durango so much we would return another year.”

“ Finally, it was time to go home, so two weeks and six National Parks later, we feel we had an educational and action-packed adventure. Next year will be Yellowstone and Glacier National Park, but we will fly to Salt Lake and drive from there.”

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Experiences

Scotland with Original Travel Escorted by Tim and Nancy O’Brien August 30–September 8, 2019 Scotland is filled with an abundance of treasures— wild coastlines, rugged landscapes, and historic castles, to name but a few. On this adventure, you will: Learn the art of bagpiping from the grounds of your private castle; pull on your kilt and enjoy a traditional Scottish reel (ceilidh) complete with live band; taste golden malt whisky straight from the distillery barrel; and learn to fly-fish in a bubbling, gin-clear stream. At (almost) every turn you can see an ancient croft, secret cave, or old clan battlefield which played a fundamental part in shaping Scotland’s rich and multi-layered past. History buffs will love this trip!

THE BRIEFEST OF OVERVIEWS:

DUNNOTTAR CASTLE Originally built in the medieval period, Dunnottar Castle in Scotland’s north east has burnt to the ground a number of times, sometimes by the Scottish to kill the invading English.

• Edinburgh with a private guide including Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace. • St Andrews guided walk, tour of Cathedral and Castle Entrance, pub lunch. • On the road to Inverness, guide en route, Caingorms National Park, golf with Tim • Private tour Cawdor Castle • Explore Fort George • Private tour Culloden Battlefield • Loch Ness boat trip • Clan Cameron Museum • Jacobite Steam Train Fort William to Mallaig • Isle of Skye • Loch Lomand and Trossachs National Park • Walking tour Glasgow PLEASE send $500 per person deposit to secure your booking. Final payment will be due early June 2019.

WHEN TO GO May to November, the island’s off-season. WHY See below! HOW

Call us!

Don’t Just Visit . . . Experience Antigua Life’s a beach on Antigua (365 of them to be exact)— but it’s so much more than that, as we recently learned from the delightful Shawn Maile of Trek Tours. Having spent his childhood roaming the mountains and beaches near his hillside home, Shawn knows every inch of the island—and his passion for the place is infectious. He and the guides at Trek eschew the mainstream attractions in favor of off-the-beaten-path experiences that allow you to discover the true beauty of this Caribbean gem. Too rigorous for you, you say? Their guided hiking tours and excursions can be tailored to any skill level or age group. So, of course, enjoy the historic sites, tasty cuisine, and lively cultural scene, but we encourage you to get out there and explore in true Poe fashion! A bit of background on our friend Shawn: He holds a BSc in Psychology and also works in the justice system to help at-risk youth. Oh, and he’s a pyrotechnician for his family’s business. And he’s trained in outdoor first aid. Did we mention that he’s also just an all-around great guy—bright, forwardthinking, energetic—with quite a zest for life and quite the entrepreneurial spirit.

Long-time friend and colleague of Poe Travel, David Sugden gives us the low-down about the latest safari craze: Gorilla Trekking.

Q: What is gorilla trekking? Gorilla trekking is probably one of the most fantastic close-up wildlife encounters in the world, almost exclusively available in the Parc des Volcans in Rwanda, the Bwindi Impenetrable forest in Uganda, and in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The experience of being with these magnificent animals while they play, eat, socialize, nest, and even sleep is truly magical and definitely unforgettable.

Q: Is gorilla trekking safe? It took many years and incredible patience on the part of wildlife researchers and conservationists to understand the behavior of the mountain gorillas and, in doing so, they were able to establish personal rules and guidelines that they would need to follow when close to the gorillas whilst getting their research done. In order to protect the gorillas from humans, and vice versa, safety precautions and rules have been set in place to ensure the safety and security of visitors. Before visitors can begin their trek into the forest to meet up with their assigned group, it is mandatory that they spend time with their ranger/guide during his very thorough briefing of the rules, and understand the acceptable behavior required around the gorilla family once they have been located. The ranger/guide is a master at reading the mood of the gorilla family, and he will constantly be letting his group of visitors know how to stay safe among the gorillas at all times during the visit. It is almost as though the ranger/guide can communicate with the silverback during the visit. It is important for safety reasons that trekkers have a reasonable fitness level in order to hike up to and back from the gorillas. It is also only prudent that trekkers be honest about their fitness;

Gorillas in Your Midst: Trekking with Africa House that way a request can be put in with the park warden for a visit to a gorilla family group that is located in an area where fitness is not a factor. I also recommend that everyone should have a porter to carry his or her daypack and also as an extra helping hand when needed. Close contact with mountain gorillas is considered safe, in comparison with other wild animals. The tip here is to follow the rules.

Q: What is the best time of year to go gorilla trekking? The best time of the year is during the dry season months of June to mid-September and December to February in Rwanda. In Uganda, the dry months are midDecember to early February and June

to September. March, April, May, and November are the wettest months and best for those who do not mind braving the weather and prefer to travel out of season in order to take advantage of the drop in prices for accommodation and permits in Uganda (Rwanda does not offer a break for permits in the wet season).

Q: What equipment should one take on a trek? Most visitors will want to trek at least twice to visit with the gorillas, so I would recommend the following : � Two good pairs of waterproof trousers or jeans, with a pair of chaps to keep the dew off the trousers � 2–3 pairs of hiking socks � Comfortable hiking boots � A sun hat (It can get hot in the dry season and keeping your head covered is a must!) � A lightweight fleece � Waterproof jacket � Walking sticks (nearly always available at the hotel/lodge or the porters will have them) � Do not overpack as laundry is good and very quick at most of the accommodations.

Q: What are the main differences between gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda? The main difference between Gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda is the cost, pure and simple. Rwanda cost $1,500 per permit, per day compared to Uganda at $600 per permit, per day. As a result of this, visitor numbers to Uganda have increased tremendously and with it have come new lodges/hotels and good internal air connections between Entebbe and Bwindi. Uganda has gone the extra mile and made arrangements with a Tanzanian air operator to operate in Uganda and fly passengers to the Serengeti, which during the season is perfect for those who would like to combine the gorilla experience with the

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Q: Is it necessary to hire a porter for the trek? It is not necessary, but it is highly recommended. The porters are young and very fit, live in the communities close to the park, and are always grateful for the $10 and the opportunity of work. They are surprisingly strong, which when required can make the difference between seeing the gorillas and not being able to climb that extra yardage.

wildebeest migration experience.

achieve this lifetime goal.

Q: How long should a trek last?

Q: What other animals might one encounter on a gorilla trek?

There is no set time limit. The gorillas live in their territories on different volcanoes in the Parc des Volcans and at varying altitudes. One of the most difficult groups to trek is Group Susa, located at the top of the volcano; this group takes nearly eight hours to experience from start to finish. The park authorities generally do not allow firsttimers to make this visit on their first day and will consider any requests to visit the Susa group on the second day only after proving their fitness level with a trek on the first day. There are treks that are fairly close to the park wall and these make for an easy visit with a roundtrip visit of approximately two hours. There are medium treks that would visit the gorilla groups halfway up the volcanoes, say, and a visit here could be done in a rewarding four hours. It all boils down to the fitness level of the individual. An honest assessment shared with the driver/guide allow one the prefect hiking conditions that suit the fitness level. All that said, it is possible to get a stretcher and a team of porters to carry any guest. We have arranged this many times if that is the means necessary to

In all my years of visiting the great apes in Uganda, Rwanda, and the Congo, I have never come across any buffalo, elephant, or other large wildlife! I have seen other primates such as golden monkeys.

Q: What is your most memorable gorilla encounter? The most memorable encounter was with Sabyinyo, the largest of the silverbacks in Rwanda. At the end of our visit with him and his fabulous family, he followed us down the trail, on his knuckles, and it was just the most awesome sight to be walking alongside him, if only for a few strides! He was huge and gentle all at the same time.

Q: What age do you think is appropriate for children accompanying parents on a gorilla trek? The age limit is 15 in Rwanda only because they cannot run the risk of having young children carrying illnesses that could jeopardize the lives of the gorillas.

David Sugden is the creative force behind Africa House. Born and raised on a ranch in the shadow of Mount Kenya, David is East African through and through. He founded the company back in 2003 with the dream of sharing his beloved homeland with guests through a different kind of travel experience— one that is individual, immersive, and authentic. Since then, David has become the go-to person for high-quality, luxury safaris for a diverse assortment of people, from solo travelers to families with children. Every trip is different, every experience unique— but whatever the itinerary, David’s passion, flair, charm, and friendly disposition ensure that it’s a trip of a lifetime.

David has been at the heart of East African safari travel for over 30 years. Before establishing Africa House, he was Head of Operations for legendary safari outfitters Abercrombie & Kent for 17 years. He has been a pioneering figure in developing travel to lesser-known parts of the region, organizing treks to Rwanda, Uganda, and the Eastern Congo. While expanding travel horizons, David also helped bring the threat facing mountain gorillas to the world’s attention—and environmental, social, and ethical principles guide his approach to tourism today more than ever.

CLIENT REPORT

Seasoned Travelers Swoon Over Safari In the following “postcard” to Paula, travel advisor Paula Lee’s clients—Keith and Rayma Jean Hawkins—rave about their Kenyan safari and heap praise on David Sugden of Africa House. Keith writes: I cannot begin to thank you enough for the fantastic job you did arranging this adventure for us. You were awesome at every turn. . . . Our trip was first class all the way and something I will remember forever — thank you! As you well know, the success or failure of a trip often revolves around the team you put together, the people on the ground who can make things happen. I could go on and on about David. He is a real treasure and a prince of a gentleman. He is one of those rare people who is low-key about who he is, his capabilities, who he knows, and what he can make happen. He does not brag about the luminaries he has guided (royalty and politicians among them), and he has a way

of making you feel like you’re the most important client he has. And his knowledge of East Africa is astounding—not just the flora and fauna but the people, history and all. He has friends everywhere, and they span the spectrum—from his old schoolmate, the current president of Kenya, to housekeepers at the camps. Everyone we met knew him and obviously loved and appreciated him. . . . You and Poe are extremely lucky to have him on your team. David and his driver, Jackson, met us at the Nairobi Airport. The next day we took a tour of Karen, a suburb named after Karen Blixen of Out of Africa fame. Later that evening David and Karen took us to an amazing local restaurant, The Talisman. The personal service at each of the camps was excellent! Our day would start with a sweet-sounding voice saying “good-morning” outside our tent and hot-pressed Kenyan coffee (yum) and biscuits. Then when it was time to leave our tent there was always someone waiting to escort us. Anything you might need or want was readily available. A typical day went something like this:

Coffee or tea with sweet biscuits, savories, or fruit delivered to the tent. Report to vehicle at 6:30 a.m. for the morning game drive. Drive about looking at the animals and birds for roughly 2.5-3 hours. On some mornings, we would have “brekie” on the drive. When the driver/guide would find a good spot he would park, open the tailgate, and produce a wide variety of gourmet breakfast items, juices, coffee, fresh fruit, and all sorts of wonderful things. Our game drives sometimes did not end until around noon (our choice, others came back much earlier). Then it was back to camp to get ready for lunch (which we oftentimes skipped) and a nap. Then at 3:30 p.m. or 4:30 p.m. we met again for the evening drive. Near sunset, the driver/guide would select a magical spot for “sundowners.” Again, the tailgate would come down, and the bar was open. Drinks to order, savories, and a beautiful sunset. Afterwards we would load up and head back to camp keeping watch for nocturnal animals. Dinner (usually at 7:00 p.m.) was a selection of at least three entries, one of which was vegetarian and all of which were gourmet.

21 AGENT REPORT T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

PAULA LEE

PAULA LEE, MEET WALLABY An unforgettable trip to Australia THE MELBOURNE IDENTITY

Once again, thank you so very much for setting up and managing this trip of a lifetime for us.

ON A PRATICAL NOTE PACKING TIP: You might not think that it would be cool in Africa, on the equator in August, but it is! At the last minute, I threw in a heavy sweater, and it was a life saver. I wore it every day. GOOD TO KNOW: The one thing I wasn’t prepared for was the altitude. Every camp we visited was at 5,000 feet plus—think Denver and Albuquerque. SAFETY: Never an issue. PERSONAL COMFORT: We are in our early 70s and were prepared for roughing it but never had to!

First stop . . . Stylish and artsy Melbourne has been a hipster hotspot long before man buns and oat milk lattes. On a recent trip, Paula Lee wandered its narrow lanes lined with cool restaurants, bars, and fun street art. The city has a distinct bohemian vibe, and coffee and food have been obsessions for decades; it’s a place where new eateries pop up all the time. No surprise then, that Paula and group tasted their way through the city on a culinary tour (in a bold move, she even sampled some vegemite which she deemed “not bad”). One of her favorite spots? “Cookie! Delicious Thai in a really neat area.” Her overall impression of Melbourne: “It’s the kind of city that makes you think ‘I could live here.’” And live well.

ROCK STARS Next destination: The Twelve Apostles—— limestone pillars that were once connected to the mainland cliffs. Paula’s group took the slow road there and traveled through the rainforest, stopping at a rest area where they saw colorful, exotic birds and a wary tree-

clinging koala. “All of these gorgeous birds landed on our guide, who has a reputation as a bird whisperer,” chirps Paula. (One even landed on her head uninvited which ruffled some feathers.) Arriving at the rugged, windswept coastline, they spotted the Twelve Apostles dramatically rising out of the Southern Ocean. “They were spectacular,” enthuses Paula. (p.s. it’s kind of a misnomer because there are now technically only 8 Apostles.) They then took a helicopter back to Melbourne. “That’s the way to do it; drive one way and come back via helicopter.” (Helicopters are Paula’s preferred mode of transportation, and, lucky for her, they use them quite a bit in Australia to get out and back and to the Outback.) “Put me on a helicopter and take me anywhere!” exclaims Paula.

MAD FOR TASMANIA The next leg of Paula’s journey took her to Tasmania—the highlight of the trip. First impressions of Hobart: Kangaroos everywhere! “There were hundreds on the

golf course, and you’d see them in town, too” (shopping, sipping lattes). Paula learned that they outnumber people in Australia, 40,000 million to 25 million. The group boarded another helicopter to Frogmore Creek winery, a family-run vineyard where Paula had “the best meal of the whole trip.” (Menu favorites include calamari tempura and carpaccio of Hunter Valley wagyu beef with truffle mayonnaise.) Upon landing on Beautiful Maria Island National Park, again met by a mob of kangaroos, they enjoyed some light hiking and wildlife viewing. Captivating in more ways than one—it was an early convict settlement—the island’s jagged peaks emerge from the sea like a storybook castle. The scenery is impressive: fern-draped forests, squeaky-sand beaches, and azure seas—all the easier to enjoy with nary an auto in sight (the entire island is car-free). It was here where Paula saw her first wombat, and, yes, it was as adorable. (She also learned a fun-not-so-fun fact: when wallabies turn two, they develop an aversion, nay,

23 T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

a hostility, towards people—kind of like human teenagers.) There’s also a protected population of Tasmanian devils that has been released on the island and is thriving. (They’re beset with disease on the mainland.) The guide dispelled the common notion that Tasmanian devils are mean, vicious creatures. On the contrary, unlike that spaz Taz on Looney Tunes, they can be quite pleasant—unless threatened. Next, the group flew to Saffire resort on the Freycinet Peninsula which Paula calls “the most relaxing part of the trip.” The resort blends in with its pristine natural surroundings which itself inspires calm. “It’s right on the water and has beautiful views. You look out on Oyster Bay and the Hazard Mountains,” recalls Paula. And should you be able to wrest yourself from the resort’s cosseting embrace, you could enjoy the ultimate experience for oyster lovers— standing knee-deep in an estuary whilst dining on fresh oysters and sipping local sparkling! You might also want to indulge in some spa time, where guests get one treatment gratis. (Paula reports that it was the best massage of her life.) On to a spirited excursion . . . Things got spooky on the visit to Shene Estate Distillery, where the crew was introduced to Poltergeist Gin. It’s a small-batch spirit distilled in copper pots that’s made from an infusion of botanicals such as Tasmanian pepperberries and other ingredients sourced from across Australia. “The distillery is in a 200-year-old restored building which was really cool,” says Paula—and that wasn’t just the gin talking. Then it was back to Hobart for a winter solstice to remember. The “Dark Mofo

Festival” along the waterfront is essentially a celebration of large-scale public art, food, film, music, light, and noise. The chilly weather did not dampen revelers spirits. This heady fortnight of festivities includes a feast, the ogoh-ogoh parade and burning on the solstice night, and the annual Nude Solstice Swim in the River Derwent. Though she did not participate in the nude swim, Paula did take a ferry to MONA gallery, where she and her group rubbed elbows with museum’s colorful founder and saw some seriously edgy art. Hobart? More like HobART! Or woo-Hoobart! . . . well, you get the drift. It’s a lot of fun.

ADELAIDE On to Adelaide . . . A private charter took the group from Hobart to Adelaide and then on to Flinders Ranges, the largest mountain range in South Australia, and a luxury lodge. There they found fabulous food, an arid desert-like landscape, and a celebratory atmosphere: “We sipped champagne at sunrise and sunset so that was a lot of fun,” says Paula. Formerly a sheep station and now a private conservancy, Arkaba gives one a real sense of bush life—its ancient geology and diverse wildlife. Nice, too, that there’s a renowned New Zealand chef whipping up delicious meals that draw on local South Australian food and wines and star organic, home-grown produce (such as wild limes and quandongs). Back again to the city, where Paula experienced one of the highlights of the trip—a visit to the d’Arenberge Cube, a building that resembles a Rubik’s cube set among the grapevines in the McLaren Vale

Wine Region. (It’s a 40-minute drive south of the city.) The cube is part museum, part restaurant, and part winery tasting room. There they admired the arresting architecture as well as blended their own bottles of wine to take home. (Paula aptly named hers “Southern Belle.”) Upon their return to town, they checked out a lively outdoor market where Paula sampled ants flavored with citrus (“Not bad!” but no picnic for the palate either.) She also noted with curiosity how much larger the fruit is down under. Finally, it was adieu to Adelaide and time to head back stateside.

THE TWELVE APOSTLES

25 AGENT REPORT T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES Did you know that Poland boasts 15 UNESCO World Heritage Sites? Auschwitz Birkenau Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork Centennial Hall in Wrocław Churches of Peace in Jawor & Świdnica Historic Centre of Kraków Historic Centre of Warsaw Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: the Mannerist Architectural & Park Landscape Complex & Pilgrimage Park

BETH WALTER

A POLISH PILGRIMAGE

Medieval Town of Toruń Park Mużakowski Old City of Zamość Tarnowskie Góry Lead-Silver-Zinc Mine Wieliczka & Bochnia Royal Salt Mines

Having made a pilgrimage to Israel, Beth Walter next set her sights on Poland. Poe Travel’s founder Fred Poe was passionate about Poland and returned there time and again, finding that this once beleaguered country ignited his imagination and intellect. Beth found that it’s also a place that feeds the soul. Q: Why Poland? A: Poland is one of the leading pilgrimage destinations in the world; in part, of course, because that’s where Pope John Paul II was born and raised. He was a great leader and huge influence in Poland and in the world and remains very revered there. The Polish people just love him and were proud to have him represent their country. Q: What’s one thing you learned on the trip? A: That Poland is a well-developed, beautiful place that is eager and ready to welcome tourists. The people are hard-working, well-educated, and very friendly. The food

is quite good, as well as the local wines. There are obviously many religious sites and a rich history. They also have a growing number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, 15 and counting [see sidebar]. They’ve done an amazing job rebuilding the old part of Warsaw which was leveled in WWII. In our group, Krakow was everyone’s favorite city; it is really well-preserved since, unlike Warsaw, it was spared total devastation. It’s a little like stepping back in time. Q: Did you have a favorite church or experience? A: My favorite church was definitely the Basillica at the Divine Mercy. They clearly spared no expense in creating it. They had beautiful, expansive Italian murals on all the walls, and there are relics of Pope John Paul II within the Church. The area of the Divine Mercy is the where Catholic youth from all over the world traveled for a World Youth week. It was designed just for this group but will be used by other groups in the future.

Q: Did you see the Black Madonna? A: Yes, we went to Jasna Gora Monastery in Częstochowa. There’s something very special about seeing the original. I’d never noticed the red cuts on the right side of her face before so that was interesting. Q: Did you enjoy any traditional Polish dishes? Pierogi perhaps? A: Yes, as I mentioned, the food was quite good. I did eat pierogi but tired of them by the end. They were served at every dinner. Q: What surprised you most about Poland? A: The people—and it was a pleasant surprise. They were very friendly and attentive. I especially liked getting to see some of the youth. We attended a dance exhibition, and the teenage boys and the girls—all strikingly tall—did a marvelous job. Poland is well worth a visit, even a short one. I hope to return.

Wooden Tserkvas of the Carpathian Region in Poland & Ukraine Wooden Churches of Southern Małopolska Białowieża Forest (a primeval forest home to the European Bison)

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ANGELA’S TAKEAWAY:

“It’s the perfect trip for a group of friends or family members.”

ANGELA SIMON

CHRISTMAS MARKETS ON THE RHINE Angela Gets Festive

On a recent cruise from Basel to Amsterdam, Angela and husband Scott experienced the holiday traditions of Europe at its merriest time of year. They kicked things off in swell style at the grand dame of Zurich, Baur du Lac. They didn’t spot Plácido Domingo or Elton John in the lobby—past guests—but they did savor the idyllic view of the Alps and lake and breakfasted on some delicious Birchermüesli (the original overnight oats). They also enjoyed exploring Zurich: “There was a really nice Christmas market that was actually more of a food truck festival” (now that’s our kind of market!). Angela indulged in a delightful currywurst and took in all the festive feels. It was then time to board AMAPrima. One thing that the Simons liked most about their cruise was the variety of excursions offered each day. “You can choose the one that’s right for you and tailor it to your fitness level or mood,” reports Angela. They chose a vigorous walking tour of Strasbourg and had a pâtisserie to remember. “It was presented

to us like this tiny jewel box,” recalls Angela dreamily. In Heidelberg they enjoyed a hearty hike on which they were rewarded with a breathtaking view of the river and town. Heidelberg will linger in Angela’s memory not only because of its scenic beauty, but because of the potato pancakes. “They were delicious, served with cranberry cream sauce, and then later in Rudesheim we had them with apple sauce.” Heidelberg’s Christmas Market, nestled among the historic squares of the Old Town, really got them in a merry mood. It’s worth mentioning that all the while, the wine and glühwein were flowing onboard and on land. Sailing along the Rhine, castles dotted the banks, glasses were always full and spirits high. They particularly liked Cologne particularly its impressive Gothic cathedral. At the end of the trip, they took a canal cruise in Amsterdam and wandered around the city (accidentally veering into the red-light district. Hey, wait, those aren’t Christmas lights!?)

Angela’s takeaway: “It’s the perfect trip for a group of friends or family members.” Fun and odd: Poe Travelers tend to appreciate both. Here, Angela relates a few of these experiences from their cruise: • “ We took a mini train to a coffee tasting in Rüdesheim where women in dirndls came parading out—singing the “YMCA” song— with trays of Rüdesheimer kaffee (made with brandy). With great ceremony, they set the coffees on fire and added whipped cream and chocolate shavings.” And, yes, the kaffee kept them up all night. And, yes, they couldn’t get that song out of their heads. • “ Santa made a visit to the ship, and a lot of the adults sat on his lap for a photo.” (Angela and Scott sat this one out.) • “ When we were in Basel, a Santa motorcycle parade went by. The motorcycles were decked out in lights, some even with Christmas trees fastened on the back. It was a sight!”

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Thank You, Clients! We Couldn’t Do It Without You

Sketchbook

“ ONE’S DESTINATION IS NEVER A PLACE, BUT ALWAYS A NEW WAY OF

FROM OUR TRAVELERS

SEEING THINGS.”

Naturally, we love praise as much as the next gal, but we appreciate all forms of feedback—the good and the constructively critical. It’s what helps us continue to refine the art of travel. We also welcome recommendations, from restaurants to shops, to keep us honest and up-to-date. It’s the sort of information sharing that benefits your fellow travelers. So, thank you, Poe Peeps—yes, for the props—but also for keeping us in the know and on the go! My daughter Autumn and I had a fabulous time [in Costa Rica]! The accommodations were lovely, the setting idyllic, the staff outstanding. Our butler worked with the Concierge to book us two private tours that were the highlight of our trip. We did a full day trip into the jungle and saw amazing animals and reptiles. We saw the two-toed and three-toed sloths, spider monkeys, toucans, a seven-foot boa constrictor, and quite large iguanas! It was fascinating. We were able to enjoy beautiful waterfalls on this trek as well. On our private catamaran trip we toured the entire Papagayo Peninsula, and our guide took us to some beautiful caves that we were able to explore. . . . Our canopy suite had an entire family of spider monkeys that stayed in the trees either sleeping or swinging the last two days of our stay. We were surrounded by God’s beautiful creations daily. It was an amazing trip that I will cherish. Thank you and your staff for always putting together wonderful getaways. Thank you for the delicious birthday balloons and cupcakes upon our arrival. You are truly the best!

DONNA R. Hello Ellison and Angela, You planned a FABULOUS trip for us. We want to say thank you, thank you! We loved our adventure in Austria and Prague. . . . Fred Notes were quite helpful; the weather was beautiful; the hotels fabulous; and all the arrangements Poe Travel made for us made the trip PERFECT! Thanks so much,

NANCY G.

Sending a note of appreciation . . . the Royal Caribbean cruise on the Allure was such a happy time for John, Nugget, Mike, and me. So much to do and share. Everything was well organized and ran smoothly—my thanks to you and your staff. We all were surprised by and enjoyed the Brazilian restaurant the first night due to your thoughtful and very generous gift. It was delicious food in a peaceful setting; the night was warm; we had a breeze; and the stars were everywhere. Paula, I was touched by your kindness. So fortunate to have found you. You have made traveling easy.

— HENRY MILLER

Our clients are an intrepid bunch. Just look at them! Whether feeding pandas in China or hiking in Albania, they’re up for adventure at every turn. Here is but a sampling of who’s been where. 2

BRENDA K. I have told everyone that this was the most perfectly coordinated trip ever! And we have traveled lots. The hotels were awesome, breathtaking, beautiful, friendly, accommodating—bend-over-backwards types of places. The tours were extraordinary in terms of the transportation, communication, guides, and variety of experiences to suit our mixed ages. The flexibility of the planned activities was also amazing, in terms of the guides and drivers. The restaurants you suggested were perfect. Our drivers were so awesome and capable. What more can we say? I certainly appreciate all you do to steer us in the right places. You are the best. Truly, this was a wonderful, once-in-a-lifetime trip, and our family will never forget it. Love Send us to you for making it possible!

THE COGGINS FAMILY LONDON, PARIS AND NORMANDY

your feedback online at

POETRAVEL.COM

4 5

1 Cindy DeClerk & Doug Johnson in St. Petersburg. 2 George & Lynn O’Connor with the Masai in East Africa.

3 Michele Dunkerley & Jane Hickie on a Butterfield & Robinson walking trip through France and Spain.

Tehles at the DMZ North/ South Korea. 4

5 Walker Jones & Kirby Moore in Spain.

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FROM OUR TRAVELERS

“ What an amazing trip! All the hotels were perfect, and the idea to rent a car and go to Siena was such a fun adventure. Thanks for all your help!”

MITCH AND JILL B.

6 Randy & Judy Wilbourn on a graduation trip with granddaughter, Marley, in Europe. Domme. 7

Sicily via bike.

8 Sharon & Gary F. & Karen & Seth Diamond in Stockholm.

9 The Gottliebs on a romantic Italian getaway. 10

The Nippers on AMA’s “Blue Danube Discovery” cruise. 11

Mitch & Jill B. in Italy.

12 Joe Lampo & Terry Jefferson in London, Edinburgh & Amsterdam.

The Strauss family in Albania. 13

FROM OUR TRAVELERS

“ We loved our trip! Special shout out to Fia for a wonderful culinary tour in Copenhagen. All the tours were great . . . weather was spectacular—so lucky!” KAREN D.

14 The Coggins family at Versailles.

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15 Ark & Nancy Monroe on a Seine cruise with super guide Nicolas Gandilhon! 16 The Erwins meet Sumo Wrestlers in Tokyo.

17 The Goldbergs in Switzerland.

18 The Feltons celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary with family in Kenya. 19 Angela & Kenneth Helms in Zurich.

16 22

20 Dana & Kevin Compton in Ireland.

Sarah & Jeff Priebe with Nicolas Gandilhon in Paris. 21

22 The Hastings in Prague, Vienna, and Salzburg. 23 The Hoffmans on a summer safari in East Africa. 24 Stevens Family Normandy overlooking Omaha Beach June 2018. 25 The Holders in Central Park on an NYC birthday trip for daughter Alex.

18 24

FROM OUR TRAVELERS

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hello Everyone! We had a wonderful time in Tokyo! Thank you, again, for making all of our plans for our exciting trip. We visited a beautiful bonsai garden, the famous fish markets, and an enormous beautiful Buddha. We really enjoyed being with our great guide.â&#x20AC;? THE ERWINS

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Caroline Mooney & Max DeLong on a SeaDream honeymoon in Italy. 26

27 Wendie Stabler & family in Prague.

28 Bart & Mary Roach in Florence. 29 Casey & Brooke Ward on their honeymoon in St. Lucia. 30 Allen & Malarie McFerran at Secrets Cap Cana in Punta Cana. 31 Davis family of Charlotte, NC, balloon ride and a bite on the savannah. 32 Jim Felton & Katharine Adams at Giraffe Manor.

Feltons on safari!

Alan Duncan at Giraffe Manor. 34

35 George & Lyn O’Connor in Lewa. 36 Mattie McKinnis in Dubrovnik.

FROM OUR TRAVELERS

“We have had the best time. Guides have been beyond fabulous; hotel is the best; we are having the time of our lives. Thank you for everything you have done for us.” MARY ROACH

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From the seven seas to each of the seven continents, Crystal guests are transported in every sense of the word to the great wonders and remote corners of the world. By Ocean, River, and Yacht Expedition, choose the all-inclusive Crystal Experience that appeals to your sense of discovery and travel outside the lines to explore like never before.

The ultimate travel experience in Spain & Portugal Made for Spain & Portugal specializes in customized luxury holidays in Spain and Portugal, where we have been hosting the world’s most discerning travelers for nearly twenty years. Our mission is to give guests the ultimate, most authentic, local and original travel experience, connecting travelers to the heart and soul, to the movers and shakers and to the highlights and hidden corners of Portugal and Spain.

ALL-INCLUSIVE CRYSTAL EXPERIENCE® • An unrivaled standard of six-star service, provided by

professionals chosen for their winning personalities and uncompromising attention to detail

• Complimentary gratuities throughout all ships • An evening of complimentary dining at specialty

restaurants Prego or Nobu Matsuhisa’s restaurants (Crystal Serenity & Crystal Symphony)

• Complimentary ﬁne wines, champagne, premium spirits, specialty coffees and non-alcoholic beverages

• Crystal Complimentary Adventures in every port of call for Crystal River Cruises only

• Complimentary Wi-F and Internet • Onboard entertainment and enrichment and so much more

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT A CRYSTAL SPECIALIST AT POE TRAVEL

To explore Portugal and Spain with us, please contact your Poe Travel advisor at goaway@poetravel.com.

Ships’ registry: The Bahamas and Malta.

Have you heard the buzz? OUR MAN ON THE GROUND—AND IN THE CAR—IN FRANCE

Nicolas Gandilhon of Odyssée Prestige is Poe’s exclusive driver in France, or, as Ellison says, “our private concierge in Paris and beyond.” His winning personality and in-depth knowledge have made Nicolas a favorite of Poe clients for years—and one who’s always in demand. (It doesn’t hurt that in addition to being passionate and knowledgeable about all things French, he’s also lots of fun and très charmant!)

DREAMING IN ITALIAN . . . Run by charming brothers Filippo and Emanuele Curinga, IDI (Italian Dream Incorporated) is our go-to for all

Saturday, February 9

things Italy. Whether you desire an intimate dinner with Michelangelo’s famous David or a brisk day of truffle hunting, IDI can REALIZE YOUR DREAMS.

See what lies beyond... Together, with Poe Travel, we strive to leave our world a better place, through our care of the land, wildlife and people and the delivery of extraordinary guest experience. Let the experts plan your next unforgettable journey to Africa, Asia or South America.

andBeyond.com

Journey

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ONE STEP FURTHER

With AmaWaterways, you’ll climb higher, venture deeper and pedal further into grand capitals and medieval villages. Aboard the highest rated river cruise ships in Europe, you’ll always journey one step further.

SAVE UP TO $2,000 ON SELECT 2019 DEPARTURES Terms & Conditions: Savings are in USD for cruise only, are per stateroom, based on double occupancy for select 2019 sailings. Offers are not combinable with any other promotions/discounts, limited to availability, capacity controlled and subject to change or termination without notice. Other restrictions apply. CST#2065452-40

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49 T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

Poe Go Travel Bazaar presents two of the Nordic region’s most exclusive vendors, each focused on providing luxury experiences that are cra�ed to ﬁt every individual request. The Travel Designer oﬀers undiscovered des�na�ons rich with cultural history, outdoor adventures and passionate local people. Åmot is an exclusive country retreat perfect for adventurous families, friends and couples, at the very heart of Fjord Norway.

For some, it’s sitting down to the first five-star dinner of the trip, and being transported by the rich, unexpected flavors awaiting you. For others, it’s pulling into an exotic, remote port without another ship in sight. And for others, it’s the little things. Discover your moment.

ENJOY THE FINEST CUISINE AT SE A™ ABOARD OUR INTIM ATE AND LUXURIOUS SHIPS.

2 for 1 CRUISE FARES and FREE INTERNET inclusive package available

Includes Roundtrip Air fare * plus choose one:

FREE - Shore Excursions FREE - Beverage Package FREE - Shipboard Credit

Poe Travel Exclusive Call or email to receive access to over 75 sailings offering Pre Paid Gratuities. Poe Travel 800-727-1960 | PoeTravel.com

www.thetraveldesigner.com | post@thetraveldesigner.com | +47 98 28 19 17 *Visit OceaniaCruises.com/terms for details. MAR184052

51 T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

FITs to France

We Are Everything France! Chocolatine knows France—every wonderful corner, and all the ins and outs—like no one else! Unlike some onsites that specialize in one or two regions, our dedicated staff will take care of your clients in any part of the country they wish to explore. If your clients start with a stay in Paris, continue to Burgundy, and then to Provence or the Riviera, we can arrange all services (hotels, transportation, guides, train, and private experiences) in all three regions! We’ll create a seamless transition, every detail of the way, for a truly memorable holiday.

In short: we are everything — everywhere — France! OUR DEDICATED TEAM — IN SEATTLE AND FRANCE Florent Maillet, the French-born owner, has provided sophisticated intercontinental travelers with exceptional travel arrangements for 20 years. Our professional, close-knit, Chocolatine team is always here when you need us. OUR TEAM IN THE USA Margot – Lead Tour Manager, Seattle Michelle – Tour Manager, Seattle Jill – Tour Manager, Washington, DC OUR BILINGUAL TEAM IN FRANCE Florie – Operations Manager Francois – Assistant Operations Manager

OUR GUIDES IN FRANCE We're proud to work with fantastic tour guides throughout France and have enjoyed a strong relationship with many for more than 10 years. We enjoy daily communication with our guides and consider each of them a friend. They are Chocolatine’s “Dream Team!”

Contact Poe Travel to book today! 501-376-4171 ONSITE FOR FRANCE

LIII T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

See You In Africa offers bespoke African expeditions for individual travellers, families, private and corporate groups. We bring to life the extraordinary journeys of many ancient, wonderful discoveries and authentic African experiences. Precious moments in Africa is what we design, manage, and bring together.

Africa’s best kept secret... a multi-generational family safari or private journey - best experienced on the move and on a luxury mobile tented expedition to the remotest areas of the Okavango Delta and the Central Kalahari, providing a more adventurous and authentic alternative to the usual permanent camps. Naturally, guided by only 5 generations of Africa’s finest Safari pioneers!

IT’S YACHTING, NOT CRUISING ® | ENJOY THE DIFFERENCE

Rebecca Recommends is one of North America’s leading and most respected luxury travel representation companies. Rebecca Recommends proudly works with some of the best independently owned, service focused hotels within the United Kingdom, Antigua, New Zealand, Sri Lanka, Nepal and the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico. Properties such as The Goring, impeccably British and the only hotel in the world to have received a Royal Warrant from Her Majesty, Curtain Bluff, the highly lauded, divine oceanfront retreat in Antigua, and Tea Trails, a Relais & Châteaux property in the heart of the tea country of Sri Lanka are some of Rebecca’s favorite properties in the world. Rebecca Recommends also represents destination

management companies that can open otherwise closed doors within their country of specialization, enhancing any trip with authentic and off the beaten path experiences within France, the United Kingdom, the United States, East Africa, India, Bhutan, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Tibet, Australia, New Zealand, Colombia and the Yucatan Peninsula, the land of the Maya in Mexico. In 2015 Rebecca Slater, President & Founder, Rebecca Recommends was appointed as a Honorary Tourism Goodwill Ambassador of Nepal.

PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID LITTLE ROCK, AR PERMIT 195

91 5 CU MB ER L AND S TRE E T P.O. B OX 2 576 LIT TL E RO CK, AR —— 72 20 2 5 01 376 4 1 71 | 800 72 7 19 60

VIRTUOSO MEMBER

GoAway@PoeTravel.com

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Send Us Your Travel Photos! We love seeing your travel photos! For a chance to be in our Sketchbook section, send your pics to goaway@ poetravel.com. Here, Carol Sitlington feeds pandas in China.

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