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Cellar Door Wine a n d p o ss i b i l i t i e s b y Ba n v i l le & J o n e s W i n e Co.
Issue 34 October 2019 – January 2020
Syrah
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UN COMMON POURS p r e s e n t e d by t h e c o m m o n at t h e f o r k s
di sc ove r th e c om mon’s
N EW FALL M E N U WITH AN EVE N I N G AT TH E F O R KS h o s t e d by i n t e r n at i o n a l ly r e n o w n e d som m e li e r véron iqu e r ive st.
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contents Features 22 You Say Syrah, I Say Shiraz Andrea Eby takes us on a world tour from French Syrah to Australian Shiraz.
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42 Golden Tear Vineyards: An Interview with Adi Badenhorst Andrea Eby and Adi Badenhorst discuss his trailblazing path through the Swartland, South Africa in this ribald interview.
47 Build a Better Board The art of pairing meats, cheese, and wine never looked so good!
56 A RhĂ´ne Pilgrimage: From Avignon to Lyon Mike Muirhead traces his travels from the southern to the northern RhĂ´ne Valley region, offering up his best wine and travel tips along the way.
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Cover: The Syrah harvest
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contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones 12 Ask a Sommelier 16 Banville & Jones and Company
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20 Behind the Label Les Vins de Vienne
30 Gluggy Eight Crazy Nights: My Wine Menorah
32 Gary’s Corner Wine Myths and Shibboleths
35 Trending Just Good Wine
38 Profile Rae’s Bistro
55 Banville & Jones Christmas Baskets 54
62 Wine and Drinks College Manitoba 64 Culinary Partners 66 Sidebar In hand
68 Shopping List 70 Top Picks
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Our high-quality extra-virgin olive oils turn even the simplest ingredients into exceptional meals.
Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Andrea Eby, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead, Rob Stansel Graphic Design Ryan Germain ryan.germain@gmail.com Advertising Sales Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com David Navratil david@poisepublications.com Contributors Alex Allardyce, Todd Antonation, Josie Duthoit, Andrea Eby, Greg Graceffo, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Tina Jones, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Paul Martens, Shirley Martens, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Sara McDonald, Mike Muirhead, Tom Penner, Rob Stansel, Elsa Taylor, Jenny VanDenDriessche, Rick Watkins Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com
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a message from tina jones TINA’S FAVES All things Syrah The incomparable Heron Ridge O-Nine Shiraz ($19.99)—one of the amazing finds from their South African trip by our buyers Mike Muirhead and Gary Hewitt! The serious Australian Shiraz blend with a seriously crazy label: Some Young Punks Passion Has Red Lips ($27.99). Sitting on a patio in Châteauneufdu-Pape, looking out onto the rolling hills of the southern Rhône—it is magical! On one of our first days in Australia a few years ago we were given a wild and wonderful pairing of Shiraz and bacon at brunch! Try it immediately!
When I am dining out and facing an unfamiliar wine list, I have to admit that Shiraz/Syrah is not my automatic go-to. There is such a range of styles and so many expressions that I often reach for something easier or more familiar. When we began talking about this noble variety for this issue of The Cellar Door, I started to realize why: this famous grape has travelled the world, and really found its niche in each region. It has so many expressions—and so much to offer wine lovers! In this issue dedicated to the incredibly versatile grape, Andrea Eby unravels the world’s Syrah/Shiraz styles and offers her recommendations for each region (in fact, I might need to bookmark this article for my next restaurant visit!). Mike Muirhead tours the Rhône: at almost 300 km long, it has a more than 2000-year history and an amazing array of wines made with Syrah. Saralyn Mehta has a fun new approach to the Chanukah tradition of eight nights of gift giving, Gary Hewitt does some wine myth-busting, and Sylvia Jansen gives you her guide to top-notch wine gadgets. We are also excited to talk to a legendary wine-world character, Adi Badenhorst, about his approach to Shiraz and the Swartland Revolution in South Africa. As for me, I am working to become a Syrah expert for next time I am faced with a new wine menu. (Honestly, I will probably just text one of our Sommeliers!) Salut!
Tina Jones
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ask a sommelier What is the difference between Petite Sirah and Syrah? —Christine Woodholf These two red varieties seem similar, but there is a big difference. Petite Sirah is a mostly North and South American name for Durif, a French variety. Petite Sirah/ Durif can be a generous, gulpable, and sometimes even age-worthy wine, and adds colour and body to blends.
have no contact with the juice—they use only the white flesh inside the red skin. Winemakers can get the aroma, complexity, and flavour of these two dark-skinned grape varieties without adding their colour. Two beautiful examples of these blends are PloyezJacquemart Extra Quality Brut ($66.99) and Marcel Vezien Brut Tradition ($48.99).
Syrah, on the other hand, is the noble, stylish darling variety, world traveller, and star of this issue of The Cellar Door. (I should mention, though, that in the northern Rhône there is a smaller-berried version of Syrah that some growers call “petite syrah” which is really Syrah, not Durif.) DNA profiling suggests that Syrah is one of the parents of Durif, but that does not mean a lot. The genetic parents of Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, are Cabernet Franc (red) and Sauvignon Blanc (white), also very different from their child. Petite Sirah/Durif has a particular following in the United States: psiloveyou.org gives a lot of information on this lesser-known variety. For some immediate research, try the delicious McManis Petite Sirah ($22.99). —Sylvia Jansen Why is Champagne, and other sparkling wines, usually white? —Carsen McCandless Champagne and other sparkling wines such as Cava, Prosecco, and Crémant can be made from white grape varieties (such as Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Macabeo, Parellada ... the list goes on and on)—but not all sparkling wines are made from white grapes! Many Champagnes are made from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier blended with Chardonnay. These Champagnes are not a rosé colour because, as in wine production with white grapes, the dark grape skins
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However, there are also many rosé Champagnes and sparkling wines. To produce a rosé Champagne, still red wine is added to the blend to create the hue and complexity the winemaker wants to achieve. Take for example Jeeper Brut Rosé ($104.99), made of 88% Chardonnay with 12% Pinot Noir. Sparkling rosés can also be made from dark-skinned grape varieties like Gamay, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Tempranillo, and Pinot Meunier. Try one of my favourites: Zinck Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé ($31.99) made from 100% Pinot Noir. Finally, there are some sparkling reds on the market. Sparkling Shiraz from Australia has made its mark on the world and is something crazy cool to try. If you are curious, I recommend Majella’s sparkling Shiraz ($46.99). For the newest trend in red bubbles, however, see the next question answered by my colleague Andrea about Lambrusco! —Jill Kwiatkoski
What exactly is Lambrusco? It seems like everyone is drinking it these days and I don’t really understand it. Is it a wine style or a grape variety? Is it dry or sweet? Help! —S. Link Lambrusco is a style of sparkling red wine. Once known for being a cheap, sweet, frothy, purple beverage, Lambrusco has recently undergone somewhat of a renaissance. The Emilia-Romagna region of Italy is home to more than 60 grape varieties allowed in the production of Lambrusco, but despite this diversity all the wines share bright acidity and fresh wild berry flavours. Bottled with bubbles, the wines can range from the darker, more intensely flavoured examples made from the Grasparossa grape to paler pink versions, brimming with red berry fruit, that have been vinified from the more elegant Sorbara variety. Many of today’s examples are dry or sport just a hint of sweetness. Look for the word “dolce” on the label if you are seeking out a sweeter version, or take a peek at the alcohol percentage on the bottle: if it’s 9% or less you will be looking at something with perceptible sweetness. Drier versions will usually range from 10.5% to 12.5%. The range of styles and flavours means that there is literally a Lambrusco out there for every palate and every plate. For a deep purple Lambrusco made from the Grasparossa grape, I recommend Bertolani Oro Lambrusco Secco from Reggiano ($17.99): with black cherry, blackberry, rhubarb, and cream flavours, it is the perfect pairing for cured meats and spicy pizzas. For a pinker version, try the Lambrusco dell’Emilia Secco ($16.99) by the Zucchi sisters. This blend of 70% Salamino and 30% Sorbara is a fruity but dryer style with watermelon, strawberry, raspberry, and pretty floral notes. —Andrea Eby IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION FOR OUR SOMMELIERS, TEXT US BETWEEN 9 AM AND 9 PM AT 204.400.0499 OR FIND US ON INSTAGRAM AND TWITTER @BANVILLEJONES.
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Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1. Julia Jones and Alex Allardyce, Rosé Parté; 2. Mike Goreski, Giovanni Geremia, Brian Wall, and Jen Goreski; 3. Kathy Schwartz, Tammie Bennett, and Margaux Braund; 4. Becky Parkes and Jeanne Elliot; 5. Joshua Parisien, Chris Care, and Rylan Hart; 6. Laurie Ellwood and Kathie Allardyce; 7. Kim Antonation and Marnie Kveder; 8. Chantal Hogue, Isabel Martins, and Sandra Peters; 9. Garry Parkes, Leah Case, Adam Sefton, and Carol Fletcher; 10. Shelly Tolaini, Lana Maidment, Tina Jones, Madison Maidment, Chelsea Colburn, Lisa D'Ascanio Vickar, Ace Burpee, Claire Chochinov and Tammy Keane.
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Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 11. Tina Jones, Jea Guertin, Stacy Tseramis, and Sean Lough, 12. Herb Vossler, Sudarka Vossler, Jack Toole, and Margo Toole; 13. Gina Guertin, Louie Tolaini, Shelly Tolaini; 14. Doug Reichel presents Tina Jones with a very special 20th Anniversary bottle; 15. Lynn Boiteau, Jill Kwiatkoski, and Leo Boiteau; 16. Simone Lambos, Tina Jones, Chris Macey, and Chrystal Macey; 17. Christa Mottola, Jeff Mottola, and Julia Jones; 18. Mark and Jodi Candaele; 19. Charlie Spiring, Dayna Spiring, and Scott Stirton; 20. Tina Jones, Danny Gonen, Lori Olson, and Eric Olson.
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BEHIND THE LABEL
Les Vins de Vienne By Alex Allardyce The story of Les Vins de Vienne began over two millennia ago. As the Roman Empire stretched north to Gaul (what is now modern-day France), the conquering Romans brought many things with them—including winemaking. Thus the slopes of Seyssuel, a city in the current day commune of Vienne just north of Côte Rôtie, became populated with Syrah vines and quickly became prized land by the Romans. Pliny the Elder, a naturalist-philosopher, equivalent to the modern-day Jancis Robinson, wrote that, in Vienne, “a certain kind of grape grows, of which the wine is highly esteemed.” With that, Seyssuel became known as the birthplace of Syrah. Even after the fall of the Roman Empire, the wines of Seyssuel continued to gain prominence throughout the Middle Ages. Unfortunately this tale follows the story arc of many other European wine regions, ending with the decimation of vineyards by the relentless and destructive phylloxera louse in the 19th century. While most of the Northern Rhône was eventually replanted, the vines of Seyssuel were abandoned, and the land and its former glory, forgotten. Fast forward 100 years and the story becomes a tale of friendship. In 1987, Yves Cuilleron began his winemaking career in the Rhône Valley. In 1988 he was joined by his intern Francois Villard, and the two struck up an immediate friendship, bonding over the vine and European football—what else? A few years later, Yves sent Francois to intern under Pierre Gaillard, a respected vigneron in the area, and the duo became a trio. One fateful day in 1995, the trio happen to be discussing this long lost land of Seyssuel. Pierre recalled having read an original edition of Théâtre d’Agriculture et mesnage des champs, a 17th century textbook on French agriculture by Olivier de Serres, where he compared the vines of Seyssuel to those of the esteemed Côte-Rôtie. They posed the question to each other: what if we replanted Seyssuel? And so, Les Vins de Vienne was born. They started off small, with only four hectares of vines, to retain their sense of identity as winemakers. The first red made from 100% Syrah, Sotanum, was produced
in 1998; the first white made from 100% Viognier, Taburnum, in 2000; and Heluicum, another 100% Syrah, in 2004. The land lived up to its reputation. They were wines of power, elegance, and precision, reminiscent of their ancient past. Since then, Les Vins de Vienne have produced wine all over the Northern Rhône, including the highly regarded appellation wines of Condrieu, Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage. However, their three original wines from Seyssuel have remained the flagship wines of Les Vins de Vienne range. As the reputation of their wines grew, so did the demand, and therefore the size of the facilities. But the trio has never forgotten where it all started, with 4 acres of vines on the ancient hillsides of Seyssuel—a forgotten land, rediscovered.
Explore Les Vins de Viennes, exclusively at Banville & Jones: Les Vins de Vienne 2014 Les Palignons CrozesHermitage, France $46.99 Les Vins de Vienne 2017 d'Argent Crozes-Hermitage, France $39.99 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Condrieu, France $79.99 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Heluicum Rhône Valley, France $54.99 Les Vins de Vienne 2015 Sotanum Rhône Valley, France $83.99 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Saint-Peray Blanc, France $38.99 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Saint-Joseph, France $44.99 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Les Cranilles Côtes du Rhône, France $25.99
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YOU SAY SYRAH, I SAY SHIRAZ By Andrea Eby, DipWSET, Sommelier, IWS, CSW As the wild child of the wine world, Syrah has quite the reputation. Born in the extreme environment of France’s Northern Rhône Valley, this grape has travelled the world. Like an undercover agent, the variety seems to fit right in wherever it is planted. Flavour expressions can vary greatly depending on climate, soil, and winemaking. This dichotomy of styles is evidenced by the fact that Syrah also goes by another name, Shiraz.
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While technically, the same grape, winemakers and marketers alike tend to choose the alias that best reflects the expression of the wine in a bottle. Winemakers that work in cooler climate regions have a tendency to label their wines Syrah, in homage to the world’s most prestigious cool-climate examples from areas such as Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. Their more sun-drenched colleagues from warmer climes tend to lean toward the use of the name Shiraz on their bottles, a nod toward the lush, fruit-forward wines of areas such as Barossa Valley.
Syrah At home in the dizzyingly steep and rugged vineyards of the Northern Rhône, Syrah is the original name for this historic grape variety. The best examples come from appellations such as Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, and Cornas. Non-contiguous, the vineyards are carefully situated to catch every ray of sunshine, a necessity if one hopes to fully ripen Syrah this far north.
Characteristics: Medium-to-full bodied, with plentiful acidity and firm tannins; savoury flavours of bacon, charcuterie, iodine, smoke, herbs, grilled pepper, red and black fruits, violet.
Rhône Valley, France J.L. Chave 2013 Farconnet Hermitage France ($107.99) From the esteemed hilltop of Hermitage where Syrah fills the glass with black fruit, smoke, bacon and licorice.
Alain Voge 2014 Les Chailles Cornas, France ($85.99) Deep, dark and deliciously full of black and blue fruit, licorice, crushed rock, peppercorn, and smoked meat.
Domaine Rostaing 2015 Cote Blonde Côte-Rôtie ($305.99) Full-bodied with an aromatic, floral nose, pure raspberry, blackberry, warm fig, smoke and charcoal.
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Okanagan, Canada Nichol 2016 Nate’s Vineyard Syrah Naramata, Okanagan ($34.99) Medium-bodied with bright, juicy red fruit, thyme and white pepper.
California, USA Caliza 2012 Syrah Paso Robles ($118.99) Bursting with blackberry, licorice, plum, cracked pepper.
Sine Qua Non 2016 Ratsel Syrah Santa Barbara ($449.99) Super silky tannins with black raspberry, cassis, pepper and bacon.
Limarí Valley, Chile Undurraga 2017 Terroir Hunter Syrah Limarí Valley ($34.99) Aromas of black fruit, olive tapenade, tar and grilled herbs.
Ventisquero 2016 Grey Syrah Colchagua Valley ($21.99) An intense wine exploding with notes of blueberries, blackberries, and black pepper. 24 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
La Mancha, Spain Calzadilla 2012 Allegro Syrah Vino de Pago ($37.99) Unctuous on the palate, red and black fruit flavour with hints of violet, cinnamon, pepper, and cocoa.
Solo 2017 Tirio Syrah Campo de Borja ($14.99) Red and black fruits with a great savoury finish.
Tuscany, Italy Stefano Amerighi 2016 Syrah Cortona ($34.99) Walks the line between the plush black fruit of the New World and the earthier, linear RhĂ´ne-like archetypes.
Podere le Ripi 2016 Amore & Follia Rosso Tuscany ($41.99) Flavours of ripe red and black fruit, cedar, and jasmine wrapped in a robe of richly textured tannins.
Stellenbosch, South Africa Craven 2017 The Firs Vineyard Syrah Stellenbosch ($27.99) Lovely notes of black cherry, blackberry, clove and spice.
Heron Ridge 2010 O-Nine Shiraz Stellenbosch ($19.99) Big, bold, full-on Shiraz with a dollop of oak and pepper.
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Shiraz Like two identical twins separated at birth, a typical Shiraz can make you question genetics. Warm and hot-climate examples of the grape tend to shed the shy side and are certainly the more extroverted of the two. Lush, full-bodied and opaque in the glass, the wines are the epitome of extreme. Oak also tends to play a bigger part in these larger than life expressions, with notes of vanilla and toast often complimenting the deep, dark core of ripe fruit.
Characteristics: Generous alcohol levels, big, ripe tannins, and jammy fruit flavours accented by notes of smoked meat and crushed black pepper.
Barossa Valley, Australia
Silvern 2015 A Greenock Shiraz Barossa Valley, Australia ($17.99) Classic plum and black cherry flavours are ripe and round on the palate, just enough acidity and dusty tannin for balance and brightness.
Kalleske 2013 Pirathon Shiraz Barossa Valley, Australia ($44.99) Inky in concentration and oozes with flavours of black plum, juicy blackberries, vanilla, cedar and spice.
Langmeil 2016 The Freedom 1843 Shiraz Barossa Valley, Australia ($160.99) Bold flavours of boysenberry, grilled meat, peppercorn, spice and vanilla wrapped in creamy tannins and an endless finish.
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A Real Team Player Syrah is no stranger to team sports. Long before the world’s wine industry was so tightly regulated, Syrah from warmer climes was highly prized in more marginal wine regions. Open up an ancient bottle of Bordeaux and chances are there is some Syrah in there! The dark colour and generous fruit that Syrah is known for make it a natural blending partner for paler, thinner wines. This practice is no longer allowed (if you want to bottle a wine as Bordeaux AC); however, Syrah continues to be a big player on the blending field. In the Northern Rhône, Syrah can be co-fermented with white grapes in some appellations. Varieties such as Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne were, and are, used to add attractive aromatics and soften young Syrah wines. Interestingly enough, due to a series of complex chemical reactions, adding a small percentage of white grapes to a red wine fermentation can actually make the finished wine
more deeply coloured. In the Southern Rhône, Syrah adds colour and complexity to Grenache and Mourvèdre blends, playing a vital role in most Côtes du Rhône wines. South of the equator, Shiraz is half of the famous Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon blends that we know and love. Cabernet can be a bit angular, especially in its youth, so, with all of its velvety curves, Shiraz fills in all those rough edges. Powerfully flavoured and intensely delicious, Shiraz Cab blends are an important Aussie contribution to the wine world. Copycats abound! If you typically find straight Shiraz wines too intense and peppery, take a trip to the South of France and try a Syrah/Grenache blend such as the Domaine Lafond Roc-Épine ($19.99). Or, if you are strictly a California Cab drinker, be a little adventurous and see if an Australian Shiraz/Cab can also float your boat. A customer and staff favourite is The Musician, made by our good friends Ros and Prof at Majella ($25.99).
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485 Sterling Lyon Parkway Winnipeg, MB. 1.844.467.9491 I www.audiwinnipeg.com Dealer# 4935. Vehicle may not be exactly as shown/Vehicle are for illustrative purposes only. All vehicles were available at time of print. Prices and payments are plus taxes and fees and based OAC. All dealer rebates, discounts, factory incentives, prices, and interest rates are subject to change or end without notice as new retail incentive programs are announced. Advertised offer is based on Lease payments on Stk#19401883; $162.34 weekly plus taxes based on price of $42827.75 plus taxes at 4.98% over 48 months OAC; total lease obligation is $31,168.32; due on signing is $1370.84 Standard lease residuals based on 20000 km per year. For kilometers in excess of 20000, an excess km charge of $0.20 per km is applicable. Offer expired Dec. 31, 2019. See dealer for details.
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GLUGGY
Eight Crazy Nights:
My Wine Menorah By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier When I was little (and well into my teens), no holiday would get me more excited than Chanukah. Nothing tasted better than my Baba’s homemade potato pancakes. I looked forward to lighting the candles each night with my family, and, most importantly as a child, the promise of a gift every night for eight straight nights. I would start considering my wish list in July. It was very carefully curated: each item was considered before it was deemed “list-worthy.” What did I want more than anything? A Barbie Dream House (1974)? The latest Kiss album (1978)? A perfectly snug pair of Jordache jeans (1980)? Would my parents actually entertain taking me for the very coveted spiral perm of 1984? Now in my 50s, and with my son bordering on adulthood, we are long past the days of curating wish lists at our house. The excitement of Chanukah isn’t quite as shiny as it once was. I still like to light the candles, eat a potato pancake, even spin a Dreidel from time to time, but the glory days of Chanukah feel like they are in the past. With Chanukah approaching, I find myself wondering how I can make this holiday exciting again. What would be on my wish list now? Then it struck me: Why not a bottle of wine for each night of Chanukah? Why not create the first ever Wine Menorah! Each night when we light the candles, we can unwrap a different bottle of wine. I get to planning my list: I am going to start with Champagne, move on to Napa Cab and then round it all out with some White Burgundy. My listmaking giddiness creeps up … and then reality sets in. As a child, I did not have the burden of worrying about my parents’ budget, but now I have my son’s first year of university on the horizon. I can’t spend Max’s tuition on wine. Thankfully, over my 15 years at Banville & Jones I have found many great wines that do not break the bank. So let’s begin the inaugural year of my new Chanukah family tradition, Saralyn’s Wine Menorah, with the lyrics of a beloved Chanukah song and dive into my list: “Put on your yarmulke, it’s time for Chanukah, it’s so much funnukah to celebrate Chanukah” (Adam Sandler).
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Saralyn’s Wine Menorah (Budget Edition) First Candle Oggi 2017 Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie, Italy: This top-selling, great-value white is dry and light with a crisp citrus finish. It is a cheerful sipping wine that pairs great with salads, light white fish, or creamy pastas. ($12.99) : : : : :
Second Candle : :
Aragonesas 2017 Solo Syrah Campo de Borja, Spain: Not just for sipping on your own! This crowd pleaser overdelivers for the price. Bursting with notes of deep, dark cherry, layers of violet, and a hint of spice. ($14.99) : : :
Third Candle : : : :
Quadri 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Trevenzie, Italy: All the zippy grapefruit notes that you expect from Sauvignon Blanc balanced by a hint of mineral that keeps the sometimes green notes of this grape at bay. ($13.99)
Fourth Candle A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2017 The Curator White Swartland, South Africa: Produced by the enigmatic Adi Badenhorst (see our interview on page 43), this Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier blend has been a go-to wine over multiple vintages. Great with my Tuesday night dumpling dinner but complex enough to stand up to more sophisticated fair. ($16.99)
Fifth Candle Pikes 2017 White Mullet Clare Valley, Australia: Sometimes you need a little sweetness in your life to balance out the spice. This off dry-blend of Semillon, Fiano, and Viognier is a stellar companion to wasabi and ginger-laden sushi. ($17.99)
Sixth Candle Cypress 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Central Coast, California: One of our longestrunning exclusives, this red offers up all the cassis, black cherry, and yummy vanilla notes you are looking for in a Cali Cab. Pair with burgers, steaks, or great Manitoba game meats. ($19.99)
Seventh Candle J. Bouchon 2016 Reserva Merlot Maule Valley, Chile: This wine is reminiscent of plum pudding or Christmas cake (irony aside for my Menorah list). Try this with your favourite slow cooker winter stew. ($18.99)
Eighth Candle Precision 2016 Prototype Zinfandel Lodi, California: When I think Zin, I think power, intensity, and super-ripe fruit. This one is a surprise. This lighter-style Zin has all the bubblegum, fruit, and woody deliciousness of Zin but with a drinkability and food friendliness for a little less power but all the punch of a Cali Zin. ($19.99) And that, my friends, is how you do EIGHT CRAZY NIGHTS! ď‚—
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Photo by Ian McCausland
GARY’S CORNER
Wine Myths & Shibboleths By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier It is said that Syrah, or Shiraz, originated in the famous wine-growing region surrounding Shiraz, the capital city of ancient Persia. This city of poets and literature produced wine lauded in the documents of traders and travellers. Roman soldiers carried vines from the Middle East to Gaul; or perhaps more recently, the grape vine “Seyras” travelled with a crusader-cum-hermit who resided at, you guessed it, Hermitage in the northern Rhône Valley. Thus, started the great tradition of Syrah in Rhône Valley wines. These fascinating stories of Syrah’s arrival in France, a story sustained by local tradition, perpetuated in 19th-century catalogues of French grape varieties, and given international coverage in the writings of early Australian vine hunter and importer James Busby… is bunk. Indeed, the city of Shiraz produced renown wines—fresh ones for early drinking and dried-grape and sweet ones for aging—and exports to Europe were strong from the 17th to 19th centuries. (The Islamic ban on wine production and consumption in Iran is a modern prohibition dating from 1979.) The greatest wines were Sherry-like and acquired a nutty complexity with age. However, DNA analysis reveals Syrah’s parents to be Dureza, a native grape of the Rhône, and Mondeuse of the Savoy wine region. Voilà, Syrah’s heritage is entirely French. Likely, the colourful myth sprang from the fertile imagination of French tourists visiting Shiraz in the 17th and 18th centuries. The wine world is full of myths, half-truths and shibboleths “wine improves with age” or “white wine with fish”. Such lore is inevitable, as wine’s cultural role spans from the dawn of civilization; some even claim that the desire for beer and wine caused civilization. From classic myths of Dionysus and Bacchus to roles in cultural affairs and literature, the treatise of wine embraces academia, creativity, and alternate facts. Not all misconceptions have deep historical roots, however: consider two of our modern beliefs.
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Famous wine regions have produced the same wines for centuries. Ah, the great wines of Europe—Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rioja (to name a few)—wines with centuries-long traditions. Each with gobs of time to match grapes to soil, to experiment with viticultural and wine-making techniques, to create classic, unchanging touchstones of the wine world. Hmph. Even discounting older history portraying greater stylistic differences, consider that each of these regions suffered the ravages of three late-19th-century vineyard plagues imported from North America. The third, phylloxera, resulted in abandonment of grape varieties and clones to be replaced with more “suitable” grafted varieties. War and economic downturns next ravaged these regions. Then two 20thcentury developments—refrigeration and stainless steel— changed winemaking everywhere, as did further advances in viticulture, fermentation, and processing. Finally, the recent challenges of climate change and capricious consumer demand continue to drive stylistic change. As great as the long-famous wines of the world may be, stylistically, they are not what they were and not what they will become. The best wine. We are frequently asked to recommend the “best wine,” often without context. The concept of a “best wine” may arise from a preoccupation with reviews and ratings in an instant-gratification world concerned about how our wine choice reflects upon ourselves. Perhaps a 100-point wine is best for the individual reviewer tasting a specific bottle on a particular day. But to say such a wine is best for everyone in all situations is nonsense. The recent adoration of Château Lafite-Rothschild among aspiring Chinese entrepreneurs illustrates the importance of context. As wine-naïve Chinese business travellers discovered the wine world, they discovered the esteemed wines of Bordeaux and the famous 1855 Classification, which clearly places five wines at the top of the list. Among these five, Château Lafite resonated with the Chinese. In a culture of mianzi (the concept of saving and giving face) and guanxi (social connections), gift-giving, and sanctioned bribery of officials, Lafite quickly became the ultimate “gift,” often changing hands many times and seldom opened. It was the best wine whether or not anyone cared to drink it! These examples are mere sips from the wine goblet of lore, teasers to remind you to question what you read and hear, but above all, to remind you of the fascinating breadth of the study of wine. And, that’s the truth.
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TRENDING
Just Good Wine By Mike Muirhead, ISG, CMS, Sommelier Banville & Jones’ 20th anniversary celebrations have led to a lot of reflection about where we have been and where we are going. Our introspection included a sweeping overview of the trends in grape varieties and styles and how long each stayed in fashion over the last 20 years. We rehashed the Chardonnay kick in the early 2000s, Merlot’s downfall after the movie Sideways, and big gutsy reds giving way to blends and fresher reds. We also stepped back to examine what our community is drinking right now. And we came to an exciting realization: when we ask our customers, “What can we help you find?” their answers more and more often do not reflect a trend. Increasingly, our customers answer “Just something good. Something that you think I’ll like.” To our excitement, it looks like what our wine community wants is “Just Good Wine.”
You see, we have been travelling the world for over two decades now in search of Just Good Wine to cater to this very (non-)trend. We spend our trips looking for the next great wine that you will fall in love with. We nerd out with our friends and colleagues about a new grape or region, but often fall back on less-than-scientific judgement: “It is just soooo yummy.” Just Good Wines are the ones we love to drink. So often, we have brought in Just Good Wines only 12 bottles at a time for fear that only the staff would venture to try them and fall in love. We are so excited that, above region, style, and pedigree, our customers are now hunting down the hidden gems that we have longed for people to adore as we do. In our 20 years in the business, we have spent a lot of time trying to anticipate and capture trends, making sure we stock the wines that are “on-trend.” Now that Just Good Wines are the trend, we have those in spades.
Great wines come from everywhere. Great winemaking is not defined by a region or a grape. Every wine nerd in the store has a favourite “go-to” wine, a “desert island wine” (that wine you would choose if, God forbid, you could only drink one wine for the rest of your life), and a favourite “special treat.” Here are our wine experts’ picks for your next great wine. WINE EXPERT
GO-TO WINE
DESERT ISLAND WINE
MIKE
Heron Ridge 2010 The Flight Stellenbosch, South Africa $20.99
Terlan 2017 Terlaner Trentino-Alto Domaine Arlaud 2016 Gervrey Adige, Italy ($33.99) Chambertin Burgundy, France ($112.99)
ANDREA
Smiley nv Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa ($23.99)
Monteraponi 2017 Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy ($31.99)
SYLVIA
Viña Zorzal 2016 Tempranillo, Navarra, Spain ($15.99)
Ployez-Jacquemart nv Extra Pearl Morissette 2017 Irreverence Quality Brut Champagne, France, White Blend Niagara, Canada ($66.99) ($43.99)
JILL
Pinuaga 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Tierra de Castilla, Spain ($14.99)
Casa Silva 2016 Quinta Generacion Calzadilla 2009 Gran Tempranillo/ White Blend Colchagua Valley, Cabernet Pago Calzadilla, Spain Chile ($25.99) ($89.99)
ROB
Zucchi nv Vino Frizzante Secco Lambrusco dell’Emilia IGT, Italy ($16.99)
Bernard Defaix 2018 Chablis, France ($39.99)
Vasques de Carvalho White Reserve Port, Portugal ($52.99)
GARY
Robert Perroud 2017 Terres Blanches Chardonnay BeaujolaisVillages AC ($21.99)
Dominique Roger 2017 Chêne Marchand Sancerre, France ($47.99)
Poggio di Sotto 2009 Brunello di Montalcino, Italy ($282.99) (even better in the Magnum: $564.99)
TODD
Alpha Estate 2016 Assyrtiko Florina, Rioja Alta 2009 904 Gran Reserva Greece ($45.99) Rioja, Spain (1.5L/$229.99)
SPECIAL TREAT
Pian dell’Orino 2010 Bassolino di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Italy ($599.99)
Saxum Vineyards 2016 Broken Bones Red Blend Paso Robles, USA ($267.99)
Masonic
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This holiday season, celebrate with friends, family, and co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres. The historic Millennium Centre and the spacious Masonic Memorial Centre are the perfect spaces for socials, office parties, and even full weddings. Have the place, but not the time to cook? WOW Catering will provide everything you need, from small functions to large-scale events. We can even tailor your menu from scratch, whether you’re having pass-arounds or a seven course dinner.
So, will it be our place—or yours?
(204) 284-7275
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PROFILE
Rae’s Bistro Photos by Ian McCausland
Jillian Flynn spent her childhood running around her stepfather’s restaurant in Selkirk. When she met Danny Van Lancker as teenagers while training at the newly minted Selkirk Boston Pizza, a life-long partnership launched. Since the early 2000s, the two pals have been working their way through the Manitoba hospitality industry as servers, managers, trainers and consultants. When Danny pulled Jillian into a consulting project in May 2018, neither had any idea that this would be the project where they would put their 30 years of collective restaurant experience and unparalleled energy into the passion project that would become Rae’s Bistro. Chef Lorne Giesbrecht contributes his years of experience cooking in diner and Cajun-influenced restaurants, as well as fly-in fishing lodges, to the elevated comfort food concept at Rae’s Bistro. When did you know that this restaurant consulting job was going to turn into so much more? Danny: We bought it and we were just going to flip it, but somewhere around five months into the project, we fell in love with the neighbourhood. We thought: “We could actually do this,” and in August 2018, we committed to building this into our own place. How did you approach making this space your own? Jillian: The day we decided to buy the restaurant, we celebrated with a bottle of tequila, which led to us unrolling toilet paper to map out how we wanted the floor plan. We created everything in the space with our own hands. Danny: We used a lot of upcycled materials: electrical conduits, fir posts from underneath my grandfather’s house, fir trim from my dad’s cabin. Jill assembled the tables while I painted the walls and chalkboards. We worked non-stop for 27 hours to put this room together. What is your vision for Rae’s menu? Danny: We do elevated comfort food with the freshest ingredients we can find. We change the menu quarterly to adjust to seasonal ingredients, so we are always serving local and fresh. We serve our menu as well as our chalkboard specials, which always feature an appetizer, a burger, a pizza, and entrée, a Chef’s Cut of steak and Dinner for Two.
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What is your favourite wine? Jillian: As it gets colder, we have been drinking the Lo Nuevo La Flauta de Bartolo Monastrell, but our go-to special occasion wine is the Ployez-Jacquemart Champagne. The Cellar Master, Laurence Ployez, came in for lunch when she was in town, and we got to share a glass with her. We also love our local craft beers. We have 12 taps, and 10 of those pour craft. What is next for Rae’s? Danny: We have been really busy, so we are looking at more space. Our next step is expansion: we are building a bigger lounge to host larger parties and do pass-around appetizers.
Dinner for Two: Bdee Bdee Bdee That’s All Folks: Panko fried pork chops layered with house-made southern style cream corn and bacon peach jam
Chef Lorne Giesbrecht's Picks Chef’s secret ingredient Surprisingly, it’s cinnamon. It’s in my fried chicken, my barbeque sauce, any number of rubs and spice mixes. Often if a dish is just missing a little something, I’ll add cinnamon, and that gets it where I want it. Chef’s favourite cookbook I always have the Flavour Bible on hand in the kitchen, and I really like the Joe Beef cookbooks. They inspired the stack of pork chops we feature for sharing. Chef’s favourite cooking gadget It has to be my sous-vide. It allowed me to cook a 50-oz tomahawk steak for our sharing feature. There is no other way you could cook a piece of meat that large without having to preorder it. Chef’s favourite current food trend I like the fact that there is a return to good comfort food. I spent a lot of time working in a Cajun restaurant, and that’s exactly what Cajun food is: comfort food. Nothing against overly fancy and technical stuff, but knowing how to use quality, simple ingredients—that’s how I was trained. Chef’s Cut: Croatia with Love: 12-oz New York Striploin with gorgonzola cream sauce and homemade hickory smoked frites
Chef’s favourite food travel destination New Orleans. Everything is comfort-food focused, but you can also get amazing fine dining there, and the food has influences from so many different cultures: French, Spanish, Italian, the Caribbean Islands, Texas BBQ.
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PLEASE JOIN US FOR OUR ANNUAL PEN NIGHT!
Thursday, Oct. 24th 5:00-9:00 p.m. · We will be giving away prizes throughout the evening. · As usual, scotch, wine and discounts will be served! Brought to you by:
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WINE & FOOD
EVENTS SCHEDULE OCTOBER 2019 THROUGH JANUARY 2020
Wine & Food Evening
Top Shelf Tasting
Join us for our wine and food pairing series! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience. Cost: $89.99 per person
Taste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialties cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures. This event is held on the main floor and is wheelchair accessible. Cost: $99.00 per person
Thursday, January 9: Chef Ben Kramer Thursday, January 23: Mon Ami Louis Thursday, February 9: Carne Italian Chophouse
Saturday, January 25: Italy: North to South
Give the gift of a unique wine experience BANVILLE & JONES GIFT CARDS • Purchase in store or go online: gift cards are delivered digitally (via email) or can be printed out (to slip into a card). • Gift cards can be used for any of our wine & food events. Go to banvilleandjones.com and click on the SHOP tab.
Click on the Events & Education tab at www.banvilleandjones.com for updated information on wine and food events and to register for wine and food events online. You can also register for wine courses by calling 204.948.9463. • Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event. • Events begin at 7 pm and take place in the 2nd floor Tuscany Room unless otherwise noted. • Prices do not include taxes.
REGULAR HOURS: Monday to Friday: 10 am to 8 pm Saturday: 10 am to 6 pm Sundays and holidays: 11 am to 6 pm
HOLIDAY HOURS: December 16-21: 10 am to 9 pm Sunday December 22: 11 am to 6 pm Monday December 23: 10 am to 9 pm Tuesday December 24: 10 am to 4 pm Boxing Day: 12 pm to 5 pm New Year’s Eve: 10 am to 5 pm Christmas Day and Boxing Day: CLOSED
GOLDEN TEAR VINEYARDS:
an interview with Adi Badenhorst Interview by Andrea Eby, DipWSET, Sommelier, IWS, CSW
Adi Badenhorst in the barrel room at A. A. Badenhorst Family Wines (photo by Paul Martens)
Adi Badenhorst is widely considered one of the wine world’s most colourful characters. Behind his self-deprecating sense of humour lies a razor sharp wit and intellect. Having grown up watching both his father and grandfather make wine in the Constantia region of South Africa, Adi did a stint at winemaking school and worked in France and New Zealand before returning home. In 2008, he and his cousin Hein purchased a largely neglected winery in the Swartland region of South Africa. Situated north of Cape Town, the region was known for its mountains and its huge diversity of flora, but there was a treasure trove of old vines waiting to be rediscovered.
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Adi and his family have rejuvenated the farm, capitalizing on the old vines and planting new vineyards. All of the vineyards are dry-farmed and planted as bush-vines, well suited to the arid Swartland. Adi’s winemaking philosophy mirrors that of his farming methods: low intervention is the theme. Grapes are hand-picked and then fermented by wild yeasts in a variety of vessels, and sulphur additions are kept to a minimum. Adi strives to produce wines that are as authentic as he is, simple and delicious wines that in the second sip reveal a hidden complexity that keeps you coming back for more.
Andrea Eby (AE) You come from a farming family, and you bought this vineyard with your cousin. Does the wine business continue to be a family affair? Adi Badenhorst (AB) My wife, Cornelia, and I run the business. I’m obviously with the winemaking and the viticulture. Cornelia is with marketing, organizing the farms, and making sure everything runs correctly. My brother and his wife specialize in agritourism, and we do a bit of catering. Our kids are young—they’re 13 and 10. I think they'll both hopefully carry on with what we’ve just started. You know, we’ve only been here 11 years. AE A lot has changed in the decade you have been working the Swartland. Can you tell me how the Swartland Independent Producers organization came about? AB That organization was born from the Swartland Revolution. It was basically an annual festival in the Swartland put together by me, Eben Sadie from The Sadie Family Wines, Chris and Andrea Mullineux from Mullineux & Leeu Family wines, and Callie Lowe from Porseleinberg Wines. We have been great mates for like 25 years. We invited producers that inspired us and journalists to present wines that they were inspired by or maybe reminded them of something that is happening in the Swartland. And then we had a little tasting of our own stuff. It was mainly to showcase what the best producers in the world were doing. It took off and it gathered so much momentum that it was quite scary but, you know, it was a fantastic celebration. After a couple of years, we decided to form the Swartland Independent Producers Association (SIPA) because we were making wines in a certain way, in a certain style, in a certain philosophical approach. We were giving people guidelines on how to farm and approach the winemaking. Nothing was prohibited, but there were these strict guidelines. The pendulum had swung too far, and our movement was just there to bring about a bit of balance. What the Swartland Revolution did was throw a big stone in a very quiet pond—and that quiet pond was the South African wine scene. When you throw a stone into a quiet pond, you know, the ripples travel everywhere. And, so it’s had an amazing knock-on effect in all the regions in South Africa. SIPA has gained momentum. There are 26 or 27 members here in the Swartland, and now SIPA is changing its form. We are merging with the Swartland Wine Routes and becoming a think tank. We get together once a month for a wine tasting, to discuss problem wines and viticulture, etc. It’s encouraging to see how these things evolve.
AE For a long time, South Africa has represented incredible value, but right now, we are seeing a real drive towards premiumization in South Africa. Are wineries starting to demand the prices that the wines are actually worth? AB I think our wines are very reasonable, but, in order to get people to understand and to believe in expensive wines, the vineyards need to be there. From a winemaking point of view, it also needs to be very sensible. It’s easy to hike prices and to make up stories, but the essence is the vineyard. Is the vineyard real? Has it got proper roots? Is it an incredible vineyard? AE You sometimes refer to certain vineyards being “golden tear” vineyards. Can you tell us what you mean by that? AB We rate our vineyards on an emotional scale. So, if you walk into a vineyard and you feel a bit emotional, and you feel little tears welling up in your eyes, that’s one golden tear. If you walk into a vineyard and you’ve a few more tears, that’s two golden tears. If you walk into a vineyard and you’re completely blown away by the ages of vines, the traditions, and you’re welled up with emotion, and maybe you are uncontrollably fondling the bunches or stroking the leaves, that is a three golden tear vineyard. AE And you have a few of those now? AB Yeah, I’ve got lots of golden tear vineyards. AE If you had to pick one, what is the greatest grape variety in the world? AB One that I don't make is Chardonnay. It’s probably the most amazing grape variety in the world. For the Swartland, on the white side, a grape like Chenin Blanc is amazing. But, I also lean towards the varieties like Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and obviously Grenache Noir, because they are just the perfect, perfect variety. In a way, they just listen to the viticulture, they listen to the soils. They really express a place very, very well. AE What’s your take on Syrah from the Swartland? AB It’s a very attractive wine, it’s a very sexy grape. We’ve got granite soil and amazing shale soil—these Table Mountain sandstones! Shiraz reacts differently to all of those, of course, depending on how it’s trained and farmed. We use a lot of Shiraz in our blends—at least 50% of our Family Red is Shiraz. I just love the tannin of Shiraz, and it’s got beautiful aromatics.
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But, it’s a horrible thing to farm as a bush vine. The shoots are long and floppy, and they grow into the rows. You need to chop (in other words, break off a part of the shoot) quite early on and that stimulates a lot of lateral regrowth, so you’re constantly working in the vineyard to allow a bit of sunlight into that canopy. But it is very rewarding.
AE What’s next for Badenhorst Family Wines? AB We still make a lot of wine under flor. I make fortified wines, ports, sherries, flor wines, fortified muscatels, probably 5,000 liters a year. Nobody drinks the stuff, but when they do start drinking it, I'll have a sh-tload to sell. We also do like 5,000 litres of brandy.
AE How was your Syrah experience working with Alain Graillot in the Northern Rhône?
We’ve obviously got the Vermouth with the Caperitif now, and we are now busy with an agave spirit. There’s a huge amount of blue agave planted in South Africa. We AB I spent a couple of months with Alain in 2007. Our cook about 12 tonnes a month, and that winemaking process is pretty much based 12 tonnes will give us like 300 litres of on what I saw at Alain Graillot: everything is whole bunches directly into the tank. It’s No one’s died yet. spirit. It's coming along very nicely I must say! I mean, I've never been to Mexico. really, really simple vinification, but to get I just watch YouTube videos to find out really nice expression with the stalks and how they do it! No one’s died yet. the seeds, we just leave our stuff on skins a little bit longer than what Alain would do. I never make a Shiraz on its AE You’re always working on something new. own; it is always co-fermented in our blends. The Shiraz is always whole bunches, the Grenache and Cinsault is deAB My partner, Hein’s, dad said if you farm and you’ve got stemmed, and the Touriga we leave on the stalks. a piece of land, you must be productive. That’s what we want to do. Most people in the Swartland are the owner, AE Why? winemaker, marketer. They do everything themselves, and nothing is lost along the way, in terms of what they set out AB I’ve got f---ing no idea. Just because it feels right to do. Nothing is lost in translation. [laughs]. AE Because you are using quite a bit of stem-inclusion in your winemaking, do you wait for the tannins in the stems of each varietal to reach a certain point of ripeness? AB No. Look, at my previous job, I worked mainly with Bordeaux varietals—Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc—and we worked a lot on the physiological ripeness: the texture of the skins, texture and flavour of the pulp, the crunchiness of the seeds, the ease with which you can remove a berry from a bunch. Obviously, the analysis of the pH and the sugars is also very important when I'm testing ripeness. But, if I had to apply the classic physiological ripeness indicators to my winemaking here in the Swartland, I would end up picking at 15.5% alcohol. And, I can’t drink wine that’s 15.5% quite frankly. So, I’ve developed a method called psychological ripeness. We just make one pick, and we pick everything together. I just have a look at all the varietals, all seven vineyards that go into our family wine, walk through, have a look at the condition of the vines and then make the call to pick. And I mean, you never pick on a Monday, you know? And, we never pick on a Friday, because that means we might need to work on the weekend. Our ideal ripeness is on a Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday. That’s psychological ripeness.
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Banville & Jones carries red and white blends under the The Curator and A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines labels as well as a Chenin and a Shiraz under the Secateurs label.
Shiraz is particularly at home in South Africa. Pure or blended, it is both new-world and world-class.
From South Africa with Love
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Shiraz $31.99
Syrah $27.99
Red Blend (w/ Shiraz) $28.99
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SMV Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier $16.99
The Flight Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon $20.99
Profoundly changing the Manitoba landscape from a pin-hole view of South African wine to a dazzling panorama.
Featured wines available exclusively at Banville & Jones.
Build a Better Board With Sara McDonald, Mike Muirhead, Rob Stansel, and Elsa Taylor Photos by Ian McCausland Designing a charcuterie board lets you flex all of your creative muscles: flavours, textures, design, wine pairing. We channelled our energy into creating two boards: one international board and one Manitoba board, featuring our favourite Manitoba-made products. Many of these local products are available at Banville & Jones in their specialty food section.
Mike, Sara, and Rob from Banville & Jones packed up their wine choices and we headed to The Roost on Corydon to share our charcuterie with co-owner Elsa Taylor. Renowned as one of the best mixologists in town, Elsa created two specialty cocktails especially for our boards!
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Build Your Board The key to building a winning charcuterie board is presenting your guests with an adventure for the senses. A successful board features diverse flavours, textures, and colours.
The Board Choose wood for both aesthetics and function: it serves as a natural cutting board. Choose hardwood boards (maple, teak, olive) as some components (especially cheeses) can pick up the flavours of softer woods (oak, pine, cedar).
Meat There are three main meat components to a basic charcuterie board: cured sausages (Spanish chorizo, salami, pepperoni), whole muscle cuts (prosciutto, spek, capocollo, serrano ham), and a richer spreadable option like pâté or mousse. The fatty, smooth pâté or mousse will provide both a flavour and texture contrast to the other meats. Smoked or brined fish can also add different flavour and texture options. For a well-balanced board, do not add too many different meats: one cured sausage, two hams and one pâté for a small or medium-sized gathering will do. If the board is part of a larger food spread, plan for 3–4 slices of meat (75–100 g) per guest. If it is the main meal, you can as much as double this.
Cheese Cheeses come in five basic types: fresh (ricotta, feta), surface ripened (brie or camembert), semi-firm (Havarti, Monterey Jack), firm (cheddar, Gruyère, parmesan), and blue cheese (Gorgonzola, Stilton). Deciding which cheese to choose can be overwhelming, so either get an expert to help (like The Cheesemongers), or focus on diversity in flavour (mild, sharp, blue) or texture (creamy, firm, spreadable, crumbly). Two choices won’t overwhelm the board.
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Bread and Crackers Offer different texture options (soft French baguette, toasted crostini, crackers), but don’t overthink the flavour options. If you offer only flavoured crackers, they will compete with the flavours on the board.
Spreads Mustard is traditional, but far from mundane: offer sweet, spicy, grainy, and smooth options. Experiment with hummus, tapenade, marmalade, preserves, honey, or chutney. The adventurous can try their own recipes, and the rest of us can check out the specialty food shelves at Banville & Jones.
Accoutrements Add interesting visuals, textures, and flavours with briny pickled vegetables (including cornichons, jalapenos, green beans, zucchini, and carrots) and olives. Contrast flavours with juicy fruit options (grapes, Mission figs, blackberries, strawberries). Raw nuts can add a crunchy palate cleanser, or roasted nuts can add smokiness, spice, or sweetness to the board.
Seven-course surprise dinners expertly paired with fine wine.
Modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean cuisine combined with warm hospitality make dining at Beaujena’s special, regardless of the occasion. Open exclusively on Friday and Saturday evenings By reservation only In the heart of St. Boniface at 302 Hamel Ave.
www.beaujenas.com | 204.233.4841 | beaujena@shaw.ca
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THE INTERNATIONAL BOARD 1. Conservas de Cambados Sardines in Olive Oil (Banville & Jones) 2. Valençay Ash Coated Goat Cheese (The Cheesemongers)
3. Manitoba Maid Red Pepper & Garlic Jelly (Banville & Jones) 4. Homemade Candied Almonds* 5. Prosciutto (De Luca’s) 6. Chorizo (De Luca’s)
7. Spicy Capicola (De Luca’s) 8. Colston Basset Shropshire Blue (The Cheesemongers) 9. Cerignola Olives (De Luca’s)
*Visit the blog at www.poisepublications.com/blog for some recipe ideas for your board accoutrements. Follow our #charcweek recommendations on Instagram @banvillejones www.banvilleandjones.com 51
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THE MANITOBA BOARD 1. Smak Dab Mustard: White Wine Herb, Honey Horseradish, Beer Chipotle, Canadian Maple (Banville & Jones) 2. The Beeproject Neighbourhood Honey: St Vital (Banville & Jones) 3. Manitoba Maid Saskatoon Jam (Banville & Jones) 4. Bothwell Red Wine Extra Old Cheddar (Banville & Jones)
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5. Bothwell Muenster Cheese (Banville & Jones) 6. Morden’s Roasted Cashews (Banville & Jones) 7. Pork Cacciatore Sausage (The Cheesemongers) 8. Calabrese Salami (De Luca’s) 9. Green Peppercorn Pâté (Peasant Cookery, housemade) 10. Smoked Goldeye (De Luca’s) 11. Pickled Zucchini 12. The Canadian Birch Company Birch Bacon Jam (Banville & Jones)
Pairing Your Board The diversity on your boards should also be reflected in your wine pairing choices. The clean, fresh fruit character of good Prosecco is very cheese-friendly. The briny salinity of a fino Sherry wakes up your palate and invites a bite of cured fish and olives. Our boards reflect flavours you would find in Mediterranean cuisine, so Spanish and Italian wines follow the rule of pairing wine and food from the same regions. We paired Cinsault, a crunchy, juicy red that’s neither cloying nor oaky, but has bright, light, delicate flavours. And finally, we choose Syrah (a Canadian one for our local board) for its meaty and peppery notes to pair with our spicy salamis.
Wine Cocktails The Roost’s Elsa Taylor created these specialty wine cocktails to pair with our boards.
Blossoming Negroni 1 oz hibiscus-infused Bombay Sapphire gin 1 oz Croft Pink Port* 1 oz Amaro Montenegro 1/2 oz fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz fresh orange juice Stir and strain over a large ice cube into a chilled snifter. Garnished with a citrus twist and an edible flower.
Moonstruck 1 oz E&J Brandy 1 oz Campari 1 oz Cocchi Storico Vermouth di Torino* 1/2 oz sour cherry juice 1/4 oz fresh lemon juice Stir with ice and strain into a chilled Nick and Nora glass. Garnish with a sour cherry & a sprig of thyme. *Available at Banville & Jones.
Wine list Reassi nv Prosecco Veneto, Italy ($23.99) Hildago nv Fino Sherry Jerez, Spain ($17.99) Fabio Motta 2017 Nova Bolgheri Bianco Tuscany, Italy ($25.99) El Grillo y la Luna 2015 12 Lunas Red Blend Somontano, Spain ($51.99/1.5L) Erste + Neue 2017 Kaltererse Classico Superiore Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($19.99) Alheit 2017 Flotsam & Jetsam Swartland, South Africa ($25.99) Burge Family Winemakers 2009 G3 Barossa Valley, Australia ($49.99) Nichol 2016 Nate’s Vineyard Naramata, Canada ($34.99)
Paul Pender, Tawse Winery, Canada
Laurence Ployez, Ployez-Jacquemart, France
Georg Lingenfelder, Lingenfelder, Germany
Thank You
to the winemakers who travelled from around the globe to help us celebrate our 20 th anniversary! Adi Badenhorst, A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines, South Africa
Julio Bouchon, J Bouchon, Chile
Peter Lloyd, Coriole, Australia
Don Krsinar, Pion, France
Ros and Prof Lynn, Majella Wines, Australia
Mary Ann and Larry Tsai, Moon Tsai, California with Mercedes Castro, Pago Calzadilla, Spain
Diego Bonato, Azienda Agricola Reassi, Italy
Holiday Gift Baskets are back!
Full descriptions and pictures available at banvilleandjones.com after November 12.
Choose from the following classic prepared gifts: Santa’s Little Helper $65 Tasty Treats $100 Festive Favourites $130 California Dreaming $145 Holiday Reds $175 Lap of Luxury $225 Decadent Delights $250 Holiday Duo Mixed $45 Solo Red or Solo White $20 Note: Products in gift baskets may vary from what is pictured.
Order and organize all of your gifts! Email baskets@banvilleandjones.com for curated service. WE CAN DELIVER THEM ALL! • Corporate orders delivered to your clients • $12 for business and $17 for residential (plus taxes) • Regular wine orders over $200 FREE (within city limits). • Selected wines are also available for delivery through Skip the Dishes.
Gift Cards are now available ONLINE: Banvillandjones.com/shop
A Rhône Pilgrimage:
FROM AVIGNON TO LYON By Mike Muirhead, ISG, CMS, Sommelier
It is a bit of a running joke between Gary Hewitt, our senior buyer, and me that we have travelled the world and seen some of the world’s most beautiful destinations with each other, rather than with our partners. Can I help it if serious wine-buying trips often mean travelling to amazing places? Of the many beautiful wine regions I have seen (with Gary), my visit to the Rhône Valley caught my attention for its confluence of food, wine, and scenery. I knew before we arrived that the Rhône River is big, important, and has connected civilizations for centuries. I knew its wines. But it was incredible to see how these ancient civilizations still breathe life into the waterway and towns. I did not expect such fantastic cuisine with those wines, or that I would sit and stare at this river, like other wine tourists and river boat cruisers. Gary and I drove the stretch of the Rhône between Avignon near the Mediterranean coast and the city of Lyon further north. The Rhône Valley wine region is actually two distinct parts: the southern Rhône that opens like a funnel with lazy, rolling hills as the river approaches its delta at the coast, and the northern Rhône, with steep carved riverbanks. The south is home to wine blends that include Syrah (up to 18 varieties can go into the famous southern Rhône wine Châteauneuf-du-Pape, for example), whereas in the north, Syrah is king, with Viognier and a few others playing small roles. The Rhône has also been a major transportation route from prehistoric times to the present. The river passes through a region that has seen many leaders, lords, wars, and regime changes that have made this place of natural beauty also a place of cultural importance. With lots of advice from friends who know the area, Gary and I carved out our own wine and food path along the mighty Rhône.
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Avignon The oldest part of the medieval town of Avignon is still surrounded by ramparts. Known as home to the Papal Court when Pope Clement V moved the papacy from Rome to France in 1309, Avignon housed a total of seven popes in 67 years. Even after the court returned to Rome, a series of “antipopes” continued to rule here. Passing through these stone gates truly feels like stepping back in time without leaving the present: modern coffee bars and Lacoste shops appear against a backdrop of cobblestone streets and medieval churches. Every resident and visitor seems to spend evenings into the early hours walking, eating, and just enjoying the beauty. Passageways and streets stretch out from the central square, leading to new sights, sounds, and smells. Getting lost in Avignon is on par with getting lost in Venice—easy to do, but something great is around every corner.
Above: The Pont d'Avignon over the Rhône; below: Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Wine Pick: Alain Voge 2015 Les Peyrouses Syrah Côte du Rhône, France ($41.99)
Orange From Avignon, we drove to the small region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (“New Castle of the Pope”). Pope Clement V’s court worked to improve the vineyards surrounding Avignon. These wines later became Vin du Pape, precursor for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, now the famous red blend dominated by Grenache, usually also including Syrah (white Châteauneuf-du-Pape is also produced, but in tiny quantities). Just north is Orange, a city that was originally modelled as a smallscale Rome by its conquerors. The impressive Roman Theatre off the main square holds music festivals every year. Walking down any street towards the Place du Republic offers options for an amazing meal.
Wine Nerd Stops There are a few iconic places to stop when travelling the Rhône.
Wine pick: Bosquet du Papes 2015 Tradition Châteauneuf-du Pape (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend) ($64.99)
• Trek up the Hill of Hermitage to Jaboulet’s famous La Chapelle vineyard (with its tiny church). • Seeing the producers' signs on the Côte-Rôtie is the wine nerd equivalent of seeing the Hollywood sign. Here you will find vineyards that rank among the longest continuously run since the Romans first planted here. • Stop in front of Chateau Grillet, the only sole property
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appellation in all of France—its only production is Viognier.
Vienne Wine pick: Bonnefond 2015 Colline de Couzou Côte-Rôtie ($82.99)
From Orange’s large, open vineyards we travelled to the steep-sided vineyards of the northern Rhône. The river road brought us to Vienne, once a “collection city” for Roman taxes. Vienne is endowed with architecture and artifacts of Roman times including the temple of Augustus and the Pyramid of Vienne, which legend states is the resting place of Pontius Pilate. Vienne had the favour of Rome and with that came riches, nurturing a well-heeled culture that loves great cuisine.
As work trips go, our travel in the Rhône Valley was successful: we came away with some great Syrah and Syrah-blend wines for the store. I also came home with a desire to return to explore the history, wines, and endless culinary offerings of this region. Hopefully this time with my wife.
“If Paris is France’s biggest city, Lyon is the heart” – Christopher Sprague
The Festival of Lights, Lyon
Christopher Sprague's Lyon When he heard that we were going to the Rhône, 529 Sommelier Christopher Sprague insisted we take time at the end our trip to visit Lyon, just north of the wine region. After having visited over a dozen times, Christopher considers Lyon something of a second home. “I am drawn to Lyon’s beauty, and the food really is the soul of the city. Lyon has it all: modern French, peasant food, and Lyonnaise style both classic and modern. It was the end of the Spice Route, so Lyon always had access to the newest and greatest spices and flavours arriving from the far east. The Lyonese exploited them all.”
Where to stay In the heart of the city: Mercure Lyon Centre Hotel Beaux Arts or Hotel Carlton Lyon Out of the way: Mama Shelter, a Philip Stark property (A Winnipeg connection: The General Manager, Arnaud, worked at 529 for a year to learn English!) Where to eat La Mere Brazier: An homage to Madame Brazier who trained such chefs as Paul Bocuse, Alain Ducasse, Joel Robuchon Le Book-Lard: Chef Martin was sous chef at 529 Wellington in 2013/14 before returning to Lyon to start this highly acclaimed restaurant. Les Halles: By Paul Bocuse, this is the mecca for fine food in Lyon. What to do Take in a concert at the Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls and the Festival of Lights in December.
A Winemaker’s Dinner: Majella Wines When we celebrated our 20th anniversary this year, we invited some of our favourite winemakers from around the world to help us celebrate. We are excited to announce a special encore visit from two of the most entertaining wine personalities from the Coonawarra in Australia: Prof and Ros Lynn of Majella Wines.
Date: Sunday, March 1, 2020 | Cost: $99.99 Book early, as we have limited seating! To book your seats, call us at 204.948.9463. Note: Tickets for this event are non-refundable.
For more information about upcoming Banville & Jones Food & Wine events, visit the Events & Education tab at banvilleandjones.com.
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WESTERN CANADA’S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL.
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Student Profile: Josh Schettler Josh Schettler has the service industry in his genes. From his humble beginnings in the dish pit of his uncles’ catering company at 12 years old, Josh has worked his way up through the ranks at some of the best restaurants and bars in Winnipeg, studying styles of service, different wine and beverage programs, and learning all he could about the industry. Josh is currently the General Manager of Merchant Kitchen and Beverage Director for Academy Hospitality (which includes Merchant Kitchen, Pizzeria Gusto, and True North Square). As Josh’s passion for food and wine evolved, he became serious about building his knowledge along with his experience. Josh has completed WSET levels 2 and 3, the Italian Wine Scholar courses, and is completing the last modules of the CAPS Professional Sommelier Program, all at WDCM. Many wine lovers say they have a defining moment when they were caught by a great wine. What is yours? When I was serving at 529 Wellington, I realized that the passion I had for cocktails could be transferred to wine. At first, it was like my co-workers were speaking a different language: they were talking about producers, regions, and vintages. I started doing my own research and developing my palate so I could keep up. And then my ah-ha wine moment: A guest at 529 was drinking a 1995 Penfolds Grange and a 1998 Mouton Rothschild. They poured a few ounces out of each bottle and left them for me to taste. After my shift, I sat for two hours, smelling them, not even drinking them because I didn’t want the moment to be gone. Tasting those wines was like tasting that year, that history in the bottle. It’s alive in the bottle, and that draws me to it. A glass of wine captures two moments: the moment it was made, its history, and the moment you are drinking it—who you are sharing it with, how you are sharing it, the atmosphere, and that experience. 62 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
I believe there is a wine for every experience—when I drink wine out of a coffee cup on the dock at my cabin, that will be an amazing memory for me, just in a different way that the Grange was. Give me any experience, and I’ll tell you a wine that will work. What attracts you to formal wine study? It is a step toward making hospitality a career rather than just a job. Being based out of Winnipeg, to be able to get a formal education that is internationally recognized through WDCM is amazing. And compared to big classes in other places I researched, like in Toronto, I know all of my instructors, they know me, we know one another’s drinking styles and palates. It also opens doors for me: I have just stepped into a position as Beverage Director for the Academy Hospitality—a position with much larger responsibility and scope—and I am there because of these programs.
The Wine Scholar Guild courses take wine education indepth into specific countries. What aspects of the Wine Scholar courses are most interesting for you? One of my favourite courses in university was human geography, so when I get to look at everything from how wars affect grape migration and how wine is named, to physiological ripeness, to generational winemaking traditions, to soil, it’s right up my alley. I have taken the Italian courses and am looking forward to taking French and Spanish. What have been your favourite experiences in the WDCM courses you have taken? I love when I am surprised. I love taking my preconceived notions of regions and countries and having them thrown out the window. I have been completely amazed at the varied selection of wines we try, and the breadth of what we study is so multi-faceted. The deeper I get in, the more there is to know, the more people there are to meet, and the more excited I get about little details. I speak to people who aren’t involved in wine, and they say, “Oh you know so much,” but the more I learn, the more I realize I know nothing. And that’s not something I find frustrating—it makes me excited to keep learning. What types of people have you met in the courses? There is everybody from the 19-year old who just started serving to a 55-year old with a career at the LC. For some people, it’s a professional thing, and for others, it’s just a matter of passion and love. All ages, all genders, all cultures—it’s a great way to find your community. And no matter where you are going with your knowledge, for that class, all 14 of you have your nose in the same glass of wine. The fun is sharing that common experience, but also seeing one another’s different experiences of the wine. What trends are you seeing in the Winnipeg and Canadian wine and hospitality scenes?
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Wines by the glass are really opening up and expanding, which gives customers the opportunity to try different wines without investing in the whole bottle. Also, we are breaking out of dominant regions, offering a little bit more obscure grapes and areas, where you can sometimes get higher quality at a lower price. I love surprising people with a new wine style or region.
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What advice would you have for someone considering a career in wine and hospitality? One, always keep track of what you are tasting. Even a small note helps—sometimes I text myself to help remember what I am tasting. It helps me understand how my palate is changing. Two, even though hospitality is serious, there is a level of frivolity in the industry that I think is lovely. It is about enjoying yourself while you do this. If you can’t have fun, how are your customers going to?
Course Spotlight: Spanish Wine ScholarTM The Spanish Wine Scholar™ education program is a Spanish wine course designed to provide committed students of wine with the most advanced and comprehensive specialization study program on Spanish wine—bar none! The Spanish Wine Scholar™ study program mirrors the unparalleled level of depth, accuracy, detail, and academic rigour offered by the acclaimed French Wine Scholar™ and Italian Wine Scholar™ programs. Recognizing the exceptional depth and accuracy of the program, Wines from Spain (ICEX, Spain’s Trade & Investment Government Agency) has endorsed the program. Individuals who follow this in-depth curriculum and pass the exam earn the Spanish Wine Scholar title and the SWS post-nominal which may be incorporated into a professional signature (e.g. Jane Smith, SWS). Classes are three hours per week for six weeks with a multiple choice exam on the seventh week. Next courses start: February 19, 2020 Cost: $950.00 (plus GST) For a full listing of WDCM courses and to register, visit: www.banvilleandjones.com/ events-education
culinary partners
529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. 529 has become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez! 529 Wellington Crescent 529wellington.ca
Regarded by many as one of the best restaurants in Winnipeg, Beaujena’s French Table provides a truly unique dining experience. Seven-course surprise dinners featuring Chef/Owner Randy Reynolds’ modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean Cuisine combined with his wife Beaujena’s warmth and hospitality make dining here special, regardless of the occasion. 302 Hamel Avenue beaujenas.com
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Banville & Jones Wine Co. partners with Manitoba’s finest restaurants to develop the perfect wine list. For more information about partnering with us, contact Todd Antonation, todd@banvilleandjones.com
From the land to the table: fresh, local, house-made. These are the words we live by. Peasant Cookery strives for flavours that can only come from the best ingredients, prepared with exacting standards. We take dishes from the past and make them taste like they are from our own backyard. A Wine Spectator Award of Excellence wine list, and the service to match. Join us at our table on the corner of King & Bannatyne. 100-283 Bannatyne Avenue peasantcookery.ca
Our menu changes with the seasons, but one thing remains constant: each item is carefully created from scratch (including our desserts) to offer you the highest-quality elevated comfort food in the city. Our carefully curated wine list includes over 50 wine choices, choose from 12 beers on tap (including our favourite local craft brews), or sample one of our handmade cocktails, served with only the freshest ingredients. 9-925 Headmaster Row raesbistro.com
Carne is an elegant and contemporary Italian Chophouse featuring Waygu beef from Canada, USA or Japan as well as high-end single-source beef from select suppliers across the country. Or choose succulent seafood, fresh pastas and Italian classics such as Osso Bucco. Pair these entrées with an exemplary wine and cocktail list. Carne is just steps away from the MTS Centre and The Forks. Private rooms are available. Open for dinner Monday–Saturday. 295 York Avenue carneitalia.ca
Choose from 20 craft beer and 20 wines on tap to pair with your favourite Forks Market Food Hall eats. Our lists are curated by internationally acclaimed sommelier Veronique Rivest. The entire two floors of The Forks Market is licenced, along with over 250 seats outside overlooking the junction of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers. The Forks Market www.theforks.com/eat-and-drink/dine/ the-common
Across the Board Aevi Spa Salon Boutique Amsterdam Tea Room Canadian Brewhouse Café 22 Café Dario Carbone Café Cibo Waterfront Café Cordova Tapas & Wine D-Jay’s Restaurant Deluca’s Cooking School and Restaurant De Luca's Specialty Foods Diana’s Cucina and Lounge Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Enoteca ERA Bistro at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights Fifth Hair Lounge and Beauty Bar Forth Good Earth Coffee House Hotel Fort Garry
Hy’s Steakhouse Inferno’s Bistro Joey Restaurants Joey’s Only Seafood Jonesy’s Restaurant Junction 59 Roadhouse King & Bannatyne Kristina’s on Corydon La Roca Le Cercle Molière Máquè Manitoba Club McGee’s Family Restaurant Mere Hotel Mon Ami Louis Monticchio Ristorante Italiano Olive Garden Passero and Corto Pizzeria Gusto Prairie’s Edge Rae & Jerry’s Riverside Inn
Sabai Thai Segovia SMITH Restaurant South Beach Casino & Resort St. Charles Country Club Swiss Chalet Tapp’s Neighbourhood Pub Teo’s The Alt Hotel The Magic Room and Spa The Merchant Kitchen The Mitchell Block The Oxbow The Roost The Victoria Inn Thermëa Spa Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine Vera Cucina VG Restaurant at the Fairmont Wasabi Sabi
WE DELIVER WINE TO YOUR DOOR! • FREE DELIVERY within city limits for orders over $200 (before taxes) • Delivery charge: $12 for business and $17 for residential • SAME DAY DELIVERY if you order before 11 am*
Four ways to order: Text our Sommeliers at 204.400.0499 Order online at Skip the Dishes or Cornervine: banvilleandjones.cornervine.com Call your favourite wine expert at 204.948.9463 Email us at wine@banvilleandjones.com *Same day delivery applies to most orders.
1616 St Mary’s Rd | www.banvilleandjones.com
SIDEBAR
In hand By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier Let me tell you about my love affair. It has to do with weight, look, feel, and flow. I know they are only gadgets, but I confess a love for beautiful writing implements, fine glass polishing towels, and quality corkscrews. For certain, functionality is a big part of any good gadget: anyone who has smudged ink from a poor pen, despaired over streaky wine glasses, or broken a clumsy corkscrew mid-extraction can attest to the importance of good design and quality materials. But we all know that love is not just about functionality; it is also about intangible connections. Allow me to give you my list of most loved wine gadgets.
Open flame, freezing cold: Caution: this gadget requires courage and quick movements. Imagine a well-aged vintage Port with a fragile cork vulcanized to the bottle neck. Enter the Port Tongs, which you heat mightily over a fire or gas element, crimp onto the bottle neck below the cork, and hold in place for a minute, give or take. Removing the tongs quickly, replace them with an ice-cold wet cloth on the bottle neck, and presto, a clean break and another perfect pouring spout. Now, Port Tongs are a bit hard to find, but we collaborated with our friends at Cloverdale Forge and now have designed-and-made-in-Manitoba Port Tongs. (Just for the record, I bought the first pair.)
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Breathe in, settle down: A decanter should not just collect dust. If an aged wine or vintage Port needs to be separated from sediment, or a young wine needs some air, you need one. It could be anything from a milk-bottle lookalike to a blown crystal sculpture—but I have to say that a crystal sculpture is more fun on the dinner table. Moreover, the sharper the pouring edge the better—and decanters with cut glass lips pour nicely.
Hand-held wonders: Cork closures are anything but obsolete, and to remove the cork can be an awkward task or it can be an art form. Try the feel of a quality weighted instrument, the smooth work of the Teflon-coated worm, and you will agree about functionality meeting intangible. One of my best Pulltaps corkscrews is more than a decade old, and I have lost count of how many great wines it has opened. A lovely alternate is a rechargeable Rabbit electric corkscrew. You need only to hold the unit in place, depress the on-button, and the tool deftly removes the cork. In fact, it takes care of multiple bottles on a single charge.
Extreme sport: A Champagne sabre is a somewhat larger gadget that brightens up any evening. Confidently (but not recklessly) hold the sabre in one hand and a very well chilled bottle of bubbly in the other; slide the sword along the bottle seam, severing the top and letting fly the cork, glass lip and all. The nice clean edge remaining is the perfect no-drip pour spout. Having transported my sabre home from Italy, and almost being arrested in the Florence airport (it was in my checked bag, by the way), I have a serious attachment to my sabre.
Like in other parts of human experience, fashions around great wine gadgets change. There was a time when everybody who was anybody had a Champagne stirrer (a swizzle-stick with a little branch end to get rid of the then-unfashionable bubbles). Similarly the tastevin, a small silver saucer that regularly dangled around the Sommelier’s neck, has disappeared almost completely. Today we know that cloudiness and sediment in many natural wines are part of the charm, so wine-strainer funnels might be next on the endangered list. Bring on the bubbles and the sediment! Meanwhile, I am ready with my other gadgets. So here’s to you, hands full.
This fall, Banville & Jones is phasing out plastic bags. • 3 bottle reusable fabric bag $1.25 • 6 bottle reusable fabric bag $1.99 We also offer recyclable cardboard boxes to carry your wine if you forget your bags.
Until December 31st, purchase six bottles and receive a free six-bottle bag!
SHOPPING LIST A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2017 The Curator Red, Swartland, South Africa $16.99............................................................ 44 A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2017 The Curator White, Swartland, South Africa $16.99.................................................... 31,44 A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2017 Secateurs Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa $23.99.................................................. 44 A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2017 Secateurs Red, Swartland, South Africa $28.99................................................................. 44 A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2011 White Blend Swartland, South Africa $43.99.................................................................... 44 A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2011 Red Blend Swartland, South Africa $52.99....................................................................... 44 Alain Voge 2014 Les Chailles Cornas, France $85.99................................................................................................................. 23 Alain Voge 2015 Les Peyrouses Syrah Côtes du Rhône, France $41.99....................................................................................... 58 Alheit 2017 Flotsam & Jetsam Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa $25.99............................................................................ 53 Alpha Estate 2016 Assyrtiko Florina, Greece $45.99.................................................................................................................. 35 Aragonesas 2017 Solo Syrah Campo de Borja, Spain $14.99...................................................................................................... 31 Basket: Solo Red or Solo White $20............................................................................................................................................ 55 Basket: Holiday Duo $45............................................................................................................................................................ 55 Basket: Santa’s Little Helper $65................................................................................................................................................. 55 Basket: Tasty Treats $100........................................................................................................................................................... 55 Basket: Festive Favourites $130.................................................................................................................................................. 55 Basket: California Dreaming $145.............................................................................................................................................. 55 Basket: Holiday Reds $175......................................................................................................................................................... 55 Basket: Lap of Luxury $225...................................................................................................................................................... 55 Basket: Decadent Delights $250.................................................................................................................................................. 55 Bernard Defaix 2018 Chablis, France $39.99............................................................................................................................. 35 Bertolani nv Oro Lambrusco Secco Reggiano, Italy $17.99........................................................................................................ 12 Bonnefond 2015 Colline de Couzou Côte-Rôtie, France $82.99................................................................................................. 59 Bosquet du Papes 2015 Tradition Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France $64.99..................................................................................... 58 Burge Family Winemakers 2009 G3 Barossa Valley, Australia $49.99......................................................................................... 53 Caliza 2012 Syrah Paso Robles, USA $118.99............................................................................................................................ 24 Calzadilla 2012 Allegro Syrah Vino de Pago, Spain $37.99........................................................................................................ 25 Calzadilla 2009 Gran Tempranillo/Cabernet Pago Calzadilla, Spain $89.99............................................................................... 35 Casa Silva 2016 Quinta Generacion White Blend Colchagua Valley, Chile $25.99..................................................................... 35 Champagne sabre $129.99......................................................................................................................................................... 67 Cliffhanger 2018 Riesling Mosel, Germany $18.99.................................................................................................................... 70 Cocchi Storico Vermouth di Torino, Italy $32.99........................................................................................................................ 53 Craven 2017 The Firs Vineyard Syrah Stellenbosch, South Africa $27.99................................................................................... 25 Croft Pink Port Douro, Portugal $17.99 (500mL)...................................................................................................................... 53 Cypress 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Central Coast, California $19.99......................................................................................... 31 Domaine Arlaud 2016 Gervrey Chambertin Burgundy, France $112.99..................................................................................... 35 Domaine Lafond 2015 Roc-Épine Lirac, France $19.99............................................................................................................. 27 Domaine Rostaing 2015 Cote Blonde Côte-Rôtie, France $305.99............................................................................................. 23 Dominique Roger 2017 Chêne Marchand Sancerre, France $47.99............................................................................................ 35 El Grillo y la Luna 2015 12 Lunas Red Blend Somontano, Spain $22.99 (750 ml)/$51.99 (1.5L).............................................. 53 Enrique Mendoza 2017 La Tremenda Macabeo/Moscatel Alicante, Spain $24.99...................................................................... 70 Erste + Neue 2017 Kaltererse Classico Superiore Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy $19.99................................................................... 53 Fabio Motta 2017 Nova Bolgheri Bianco Tuscany, Italy $25.99................................................................................................. 53 Heron Ridge 2010 The Flight Stellenbosch, South Africa $20.99................................................................................................ 35 Heron Ridge 2015 O-Nine Shiraz Stellenbosch, South Africa $19.99.................................................................................... 10,25 Hewitson 2015 Baby Bush Mourvèdre Barossa Valley, Australia $29.99.................................................................................... 70 Hildago nv Fino Sherry Jerez, Spain $17.99................................................................................................................................ 53 J. Bouchon 2016 Reserva Merlot Maule Valley, Chile $18.99..................................................................................................... 31 Jeeper nv Brut Rosé Champagne, France $104.99....................................................................................................................... 12 J.L. Chave 2013 Farconnet Hermitage, France $107.99.............................................................................................................. 23 Kalleske 2013 Pirathon Shiraz Barossa Valley, Australia $44.99................................................................................................. 26 Langmeil 2016 The Freedom 1843 Shiraz Barossa Valley, Australia $160.99.............................................................................. 26
68 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
Les Vins de Vienne 2014 Les Palignons Crozes-Hermitage, France $46.99.................................................................................. 20 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Saint-Joseph, France $44.99................................................................................................................. 20 Les Vins de Vienne 2017 d’Argent Crozes-Hermitage, France $39.99......................................................................................... 20 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Condrieu, France $79.99..................................................................................................................... 20 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Les Cranilles Côte du Rhône, France $25.99....................................................................................... 20 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Saint-Peray Blanc Rhône Valley, France $38.99.................................................................................... 20 Les Vins de Vienne 2015 Sotanum Rhône Valley, France $83.99................................................................................................. 20 Les Vins de Vienne 2016 Heluicum Rhône Valley, France $54.99 .............................................................................................. 20 Lo Nuevo 2018 La Flauta de Bartolo Monastrell Jumilla, Spain $14.99..................................................................................... 39 Majella 2017 The Musician Coonawarra, Australia $25.99........................................................................................................ 27 Majella 2017 Sparkling Shiraz Coonawarra, Australia $46.99.................................................................................................... 12 Marcel Vezien nv Brut Tradition Champagne, France $48.99..................................................................................................... 12 McManis 2017 Petite Sirah California, USA $22.99................................................................................................................... 12 Monteraponi 2017 Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy $31.99.......................................................................................................... 35 Nichol 2016 Nate’s Vineyard Syrah Naramata, Canada $34.99............................................................................................. 24,53 Oggi 2017 Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie, Italy $12.99.................................................................................................................... 31 Pascual Toso 2016 Limited Edition Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $19.99................................................................................... 70 Pearl Morissette 2017 Irreverence White Blend Niagara, Canada $43.99.................................................................................. 35 Pian dell’Orino 2010 Bassolino di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Italy $599.99............................................................ 35 Pikes 2017 White Mullet Clare Valley, Australia $17.99............................................................................................................. 31 Pinuaga 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Tierra de Castilla, Spain $14.99................................................................................................. 35 Ployez-Jacquemart nv Extra Quality Brut Champagne, France $66.99............................................................................. 12,35,38 Podere le Ripi 2016 Amore & Follia Rosso Tuscany, Italy $41.99.............................................................................................. 25 Precision 2016 Prototype Zinfandel Lodi, California $19.99...................................................................................................... 31 Poggio di Sotto 2009 Brunello di Montalcino, Italy $282.99 (750 ml)/$564.99 (Magnum)........................................................ 35 Port tongs $149.99..................................................................................................................................................................... 66 Pulltaps corkscrew $79.99.......................................................................................................................................................... 66 Quadri 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Trevenzie, Italy $13.99................................................................................................................ 31 Rabbit electric corkscrew $49.99................................................................................................................................................ 66 Reassi nv Prosecco Veneto, Italy $23.99...................................................................................................................................... 53 Reassi 2016 Sparviere Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc Veneto, Italy $24.99....................................................................... 70 Rizzi 2016 Barbera D’Alba, Italy $28.99.................................................................................................................................... 70 Rioja Alta 2009 904 Gran Reserva Rioja, Spain $229.99 (1.5L)................................................................................................. 35 Robert Perroud 2017 Terres Blanches Chardonnay Beaujolais-Villages, France $21.99.............................................................. 35 Silvern 2015 A Greenock Shiraz Barossa Valley, Australia $17.99.............................................................................................. 26 Saxum Vinyards 2016 Broken Stones Red Blend Paso Robles, USA $267.99.............................................................................. 35 Sine Qua Non 2016 Ratsel Syrah California, USA $449.99........................................................................................................ 24 Smiley nv Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa $23.99............................................................................................................ 35 Solo 2017 Tirio Syrah Campo de Borja, Spain ($14.99).............................................................................................................. 25 Some Young Punks 2017 Passion Has Red Lips McLaren Vale, Australia $27.99....................................................................... 10 Stefano Amerighi 2016 Syrah Cortona, Italy $34.99................................................................................................................... 25 Terlan 2017 Terlaner Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy $33.99............................................................................................................. 35 Undurraga 2017 Terroir Hunter Syrah Limarí Valley, Chile $34.99............................................................................................ 24 Vasques de Carvalho White Reserve Port, Portugal $52.99......................................................................................................... 35 Ventisquero 2016 Grey Syrah Colchagua Valley, Chile ($21.99)................................................................................................. 24 Viña Zorzal 2016 Tempranillo, Navarra, Spain $15.99.............................................................................................................. 35 Wine decanter $89.99................................................................................................................................................................. 66 Zinck nv Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé Alsace, France $31.99..................................................................................................... 12 Zucchi nv Vino Frizzante Secco Lambrusco dell’Emilia, Italy $16.99..................................................................................... 12,35
Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of all products, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. www.banvilleandjones.com 69
* C U STOMER P IC K *
top picks
GREG GRACEFFO
JENNY VANDENDRIESSCHE
SARALYN MEHTA
Reassi 2016 Sparviere Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc Veneto, Italy $24.99
Pascual Toso 2016 Limited Edition Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $19.99
Enrique Mendoza 2017 La Tremenda Macabeo/Moscatel Alicante, Spain $24.99
This red blend hails from the Euganean Hills of Veneto. The Cabernet Franc grapes are left to sun dry in the vineyard, then handpicked with the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes once mature, resulting in notes of cherry and cassis. The Cabernet Franc makes Sparviere versatile for pairing: we enjoyed it with grilled steak Florentine. Not only is Sparviere exclusive to Manitoba, Banville & Jones is the only retailer in North America selling this wine!
Pascual Toso Limited Edition is a delicious Malbec from one of the oldest wineries in Argentina. It reveals aromas of dark berry and smoky spice with accents of vanilla and clove. This is a medium-bodied dry red wine with gentle acidity and firm tannins that pairs well with roasted meats and vegetables. A wonderful choice for Manitoba dinners as fall turns to winter.
My current favourite is great for the deck in the summer with substantial body to hold up to winter meals as well. On the nose, this wine shows hints of apricot, peach, citrus, and pear. The palate is lush and round with notes of melon, stone fruit, and citrus. Its lingering finish will make you want to come back to this memorable wine time and time again.
RICK WATKINS
GARY HEWITT
JOSIE DUTHOIT
Rizzi 2016 Barbera D’Alba, Italy $28.99
Hewitson 2015 Baby Bush Mourvèdre Barossa Valley, Australia $29.99
Cliffhanger 2018 Riesling Mosel, Germany $18.99
This is the best Barbera D’Alba I have ever tasted. First produced in 1974, this vintage might be the crowning glory. It is very floral on the nose with hints of violet and rose petals. Black fruits come with some aeration and lead to a delicious palate. In the mouth, there is black raspberry, black cherry, and a taste of citrus orange zest. Drink now through 2021.
The 15-year old Baby Bush vineyard is a scion of the oldest Mourvèdre vines in the world, the Old Garden vineyard (planted in 1853), also worked by Hewitson. Young and vibrant with rich, dark berries, dates, and warm earth, Baby Bush is a lovely ribbon of aromas and flavours leading to a persistent, juicy finish. The pedigree is clear.
This fun Riesling is created on the steep, sloping vines that lace Germany’s Mosel River by four crazy, passionate winemakers. This white is off-dry on the palate with plush lemon and crunchy apple notes. It is a delightful sipper on its own or excellent with spicy Thai food and flavourful Indian cuisine.
70 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
Becky Parkes, Garry Parkes, Brad Parkes
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