Katowice In Your Pocket - November 2018 - February 2019 by Poland In Your Pocket

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Katowice No. 35, November 2018 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; February 2019

City Guide

Katowice: Industrial at Heart

p.8

COP24

p.10

Polish Print Triennial

p.22

Galeria Katowicka

3 rd ďŹ&#x201A;oor, mezzanine 3 maja 30, Katowice

+48 577 818 088

Galeria Katowicka 3 rd ďŹ&#x201A;oor, mezzanine 3 maja 30, Katowice

+48 577 818 088

Contents

Katowice Feature Katowice: Industrial at Heart

p.8

Silesian Museum | © Marcin Czechowicz

Arrival & Transport

Restaurants

City Basics

Nightlife

What’s On 18

Leisure

Sightseeing

Shopping

Directory

Hotels

Downtown Katowice Cultural Zone Southern Katowice Silesia Park Nikiszowiec

26 30 32 34 36

Further Afield Kraków-Częstochowa Upland Auschwitz

40 42

Cafés

Local Flavours Traditional Silesian Dishes Polish Alcohol 4 Katowice In Your Pocket

46 66

Maps & Indexes Katowice City Map Katowice Centre Map Region Map Street Index Listings & Features Index

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

84 86 87 88 90

Buddha Katowice ul. DrzymaĹ&#x201A;y 9, open hours: 12-22-30 phone +48 726 111 222 www. buddha-restaurant.pl India Garden Restaurant&Catering Katowice, Trojoka 1, open hours: 12-22.00 phohe: +48 791 991 919

Foreword Welcome to issue 35 of Katowice In Your Pocket – your guide to the city and greater Silesia! You’re lucky to be in the city at a special time of year, which allows you to experience the highlights of winter! You may be here for pleasure, or you know, aiming to save the planet during COP24 (p.10), but whatever your reasons for visiting, we’ve got your stay covered. It may be getting colder, but the atmosphere remains warm. If it does get a bit too cold for comfort, or heaven forbid the white stuff descends well before it’s welcome, there is a bounty of indoor activities and events to keep you entertained through the deepest darkest days. A visit to one of the region’s many museums is an absolute must and the first on your radar should be the Silesian Museum (p.31) right in the heart of the revamped city centre. If you play your cards right you can visit the museum by day and catch a concert at the world-class NOSPR symphony hall next door (p.31). You can find a full list of upcoming events in Katowice and other great Silesian venues in our What’s On section (p18). And last but not least, we’d be remiss if we didn’t namedrop the reason for the season and most festive holiday of them all: Christmas. Katowice will be presenting the traditional Christmas Fair on the Market Square (Rynek) in December, so don’t miss it! Seasons Greetings from all of us here at IYP! Andrew Elliott, who has close ties to Poland, has been living here since 2016 when he finally decided to make the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, food & drink, photography & videography! He even has a slight penchant for history.

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

COVER STORY Katowice’s Cultural Zone (p.30) at night - it’s hard to believe this area once resembled a cratered lunar landscape. What you see now is the gem of the city’s revitalisation efforts. Photo by Alex Wiśniewski courtesy of Katowice City Council.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 10,000 copies published 3 times per year Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Sales Consultant: Monika Szymanek (+48) 668 876 351 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 87 94 94 Events Editor: Jason Neale Research: Aleksandra Mańkut, Monika Jakubek, Agata Janik Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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inyourpocket.com 6 Katowice In Your Pocket

Each year, Silesia remembers its industrial heritage during the Industriada Festival.

Katowice: Industrial at Heart Despite the winds of change blowing through the Silesian region over the last few decades, the core of Silesian identity is not so easily blown over. Katowice and Silesia will always remain industrial at heart. Read on to learn more. 8 Katowice In Your Pocket

Katowice: Industrial at Heart If you’ve ever completed a Mensa IQ test (or even one of those pseudo online tests), you’ll know the format of some of the questions – plane is to...[sky] as boat is to...[water]. So too can the link be made between Industry and Katowice (heck, even the entire Silesian region!). To understand Katowice and the surrounding area, of course, it’s important to know about historical geopolitical events, but to also know why the area has been seen as such an important addition to any map changing tricks by the regional powers. There’s one simple answer: natural resources. This is a land famous for iron and steel production, but also...coal. Ha haaar, the black gold bringeth more economic benefits than a simple crate of gold, and that’s why the tug of war over the Silesian lands was so persistent. It even led to three Silesian uprisings! Whether it was the importance of the area’s efforts to fund war efforts, the econmic progression of a fledgling state, or efforts to oppose imposed Communist rule, industry has long been a key component of Silesia’s identity. Even now, as the city gradually moves away from traditional heavy industry, it’s fair to say that Katowice and the surrounding area are still industrial at heart.

HISTORY So how did it all begin? Katowice can count itself as one of Poland’s newer cities, and a direct result of the industrial age. That’s not to say the region was a barren wasteland prior to the age of steam. The history books suggest the area was inhabited by ethnic Silesians centuries earlier, with the first recorded settlement

Franz Winkler

Walcownia Cynku - Zinc Metallurgy Museum

being the village of Krasny Dąb, whose existence was officially chronicled in 1299. In 1598 a village called Villa Nova was also documented to stand in the area now taken up by Katowice. By this time the region had changed from Bohemian hands to the domain of the Habsburg dynasty. Things started hotting up in 1742 when the area changed hands once more, this time as the property of the Prussians. 1788 saw Karolina (the area’s first mine) opened, and by 1822 historic documents note 102 homesteads in the village of Katowice. Two years later the first school was opened and Katowice started making its first steps into adulthood. What really set the ball rolling was the construction of a railway station in 1847. Industrialist and mining mogul Franz Winkler saw this as an opportunity to build up the mines he owned in the region, and Katowice was quickly developed as an industrial town. September 11, 1865, saw Katowice awarded municipal rights and by 1875 it had grown to hold over 11,000 residents, of which half were of Polish ethnicity. The city continued to prosper as an industrial heartland, with coal and steel industries flourishing. By 1897 it was officially designated as a city, though the streets were anything but a happy place; the even split in population between Germans and Poles was already causing friction. After the defeat of Germany in WWI, and the founding of a newly independent Polish state, native Poles – inspired by the rhetoric of Wojciech Korfanty – staged three uprisings between 1919-21 in a bid to have the Silesia region incorporated into the Second Polish Republic. To prevent outright war from breaking out the League of Nations finally intervened and in 1922 divided the region between both Poles and Germans. Kattowitz, as it was known before this date, fell on the Polish side of the divide and inexplicably became an autonomous voivodeship - a privilege unique from any other province in PL. The inter-war years marked a golden age for the city, with the building of the Silesian Parliament complex and one of Poland’s first skyscrapers (Cloud Scraper) being symbolic of the march into the future. katowice.inyourpocket.com

Katowice: Industrial at Heart PRESENT DAY: INDUSTRIAL TOURISM

Silesian Museum today - historical elements mixed with modernity.

Bad news was lurking around the corner though, and in spite of a heroic defence the city fell under German control on September 6, 1939. Aside from the savage destruction of the synagogue and the Silesian Museum, physically speaking the city escaped the fiery fate of many eastern cities, and found itself used as a major centre of manufacturing by the Nazis. Liberation came in the form of Soviet tanks in 1945, and the city was once more Polish – in theory. Between 1953 and 1956 it was renamed ‘Stalinogród,’ and a period of thoughtless development followed; the primitive exploitation of the region’s natural resources saw it marked out as an environmental blackspot with horrific pollution problems. This was a time when walking through the city with a white t-shirt would mean you returned with a grey t-shirt - no, really. Although there was plenty of work in the mines and steel mills, popular unrest with the communist system was growing fast. Living standards had plummeted, with empty shop shelves and round-the-block queues a common sight. In 1980 a series of strikes inspired by the Gdańsk-born Solidarity movement quickly spread around the country. Demands for better living conditions were initially met, but Solidarity continued to lobby for further reforms and free elections. The Kremlin was furious, and with Soviet invasion a looming threat, appointed communist President Jaruzelski declared a state of martial law on December 13, 1981. Tanks roared into the street, subversives were arrested and telephone lines were cut. On December 16 a military assault was launched on striking miners in Katowice’s ‘Wujek’ mine (p.32), resulting in the deaths of nine workers. With Solidarity officially dissolved and its leaders imprisoned, discontent was growing. Pope John Paul II visited Poland, and Katowice, once more in 1983, his mere presence igniting hopes and unifying the people in popular protest. The people would not back down. Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy nosediving towards disaster forced Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition leaders in 1988, and the following year Solidarity was once more granted legal status. Participating in Poland’s first post-Communist election the party swept to victory, with former electrician Lech Wałęsa leading from the soapbox. Fittingly it was Wałęsa who unveiled a monument in Katowice to the miners killed in 1981 on the tenth anniversary of the event. 10 Katowice In Your Pocket

So what of Katowice, and Silesia as a whole? You’re now in a region which has gone through relatively fast-paced change from heavy industrial beginnings, to one of postindustrial transition. Thanks in part to the collapse of Communism, and the ongoing cooperation between local government and foreign institutions, catastrophe was averted and the ecological balance of the area looks safe. What’s more, it’s now possible to tour the very facilities that made Silesia (and nearly destroyed it!). The gem of the revitalisation is Katowice’s Cultural Zone (p.30), the terrain which was once the Katowice Coal Mine. That’s not to say there are no longer functioning mines across the region – there are still plenty. You have the choice to visit a mix of historical and operational mines, and uniquely, districts such as Nikiszowiec (p.36) which housed workers. Any anoraked enthusiasts are urged to get hold of the excellent ‘Szlak Zabytków Techniki Województwa Śląskiego’ (Silesian Industrial Monuments Trail), a multi-lingual guide with all the must-see sites. Pick it up from any Tourist Information point (p.25).

COP24 The UN climate summits, COP (Conference of the Parties) are global conferences on climate policy, and now Katowice will host the 24th meeting between 3-14 December. This is not Poland’s first time holding the event, having previously hosted in Poznań in 2008 and in Warsaw in 2013. In April 2017, UN technical mission delegates, while visiting the capital of Upper Silesia, appreciated the city’s excellent preparation for the event, including its infrastructure. This year’s summit will include: the Conference of the Parties to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (COP24), Meeting of the Parties to the Kyoto Protocol (CMP 14) and the Conference of Signatories to the Paris Agreement (CMA 1). Around 20,000 people from 190 countries will take part in the event, including politicians, representatives of non-governmental organisations, the scientific community and business sector. Other than the focal point of COP24 being the Cultural Zone (p.30), there are other places connected to the conference worth visiting. The main market square (Rynek, p.26) will host the Dobry Klimat (Good Atmosphere) ecology tent (p.7) in which you can watch lectures, take part in workshops and meet a host of interesting people! Also check out the family orientated Ekoeksperymentarium on the market square at the intersection of ul. Pocztowa/ul. Młyńska where you can learn about simple steps you can take in your daily life to lessen the your impact on the environment. To find out more, visit COP24.KATOWICE.EU.

Katowice

changes

the climate! 3 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 14 December, 2018 During 24. Conference of the Parties to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (COP24), the so called Climate Summit, Katowice will host over 28 thousand visitors from 190 countries. It is here that key decisions will be taken in order to slow down the negative climate change.

More information available on:

cop24.katowice.eu

Arrival & Transport

Katowice Train Station

BY TRAIN For decades Katowice had a serious PR problem in the menacing shape of its own central train station - a truly ghastly architectural abomination that sheltered all manner of strange smells and a host of dubious characters. Having ourselves survived many a close encounter with tunnel dwelling riffraff and several existential dilemmas while commiserating in the communist era cafeteria, we are overjoyed to announce that those days are gone and no longer will travellers have to live in fear of drawing near to this huge communication hub. The loooong awaited, fully renovated and totally reconceptualised Katowice train station officially opened in October 2012 and was fully operational from April 2013. The finished product is indeed a thing of beauty (wait, are we still in Katowice?), and while it will undoubtedly take time for some people to fully scrub the industrial stain of the old train station from their memory, those arriving in the city for the first time will find themselves greeted by a fully modern metropolis that exceeds expectations. Congrats Katowice, it’s nice to meet you. KATOWICE TRAIN STATION With a total investment estimated at 240 million euros, the new station welcomes 12 million passengers per year with 520 trains running through it every 24 hours. The station also incorporates an enormous and modern shopping mall (Galeria Katowicka) and an underground parking lot, with additional shopping and entertainment venues 12 Katowice In Your Pocket

on Szewczyk Square. The regional bus station under the station is already operational so if you are travelling somewhere in Silesia beyond Katowice, or on your way to the airport, head down one of the escalators in the main train terminal to grab a bus. Besides the bevvy of modern conveniences and prestige the new station brings, perhaps the greatest advantage is its location and full integration as a local, national and international transport hub. In July and August there are 11 direct trains from Katowice to Kraków. Departure times: 3:18, 5:25, 7:29, 8:08, 8:30, 12:11. 13:53, 16:01, 18:57, 19:29, 20:20. From September onward, the train times will change slightly to 3:30, 5:25, 7:20, 8:19, 8:39, 10:57, 14:00, 16:01, 18:46, 18:59, 20:23 (check their site from September onward in case of change to timetable). The average journey time is between 2:05 - 2:15. It is also possible to travel between the cities of the Silesian Metropolis by local train (Koleje Śląskie) from around 5am-midnight; the trip to Zabrze is about 20 minutes, to Gliwice 30 minutes. Station departure boards (odjazdy) are indicated by their yellow timetables while arrivals (przyjazdy) are white. The ticket offices for Intercity Trains are open 24hrs and for Koleje Śląskie 05:00 - 21:30. For connections to other destinations in Poland or abroad, check the website or call the infoline.QM‑12, Pl. Szewczyka, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

Arrival & Transport BY PLANE

TRANSPORT TOOLS/APPS

KATOWICE AIRPORT Katowice Airport is located 34km north east of Katowice in Pyrzowice, with frequent shuttle bus connections to and from Katowice. Two Departure Terminals, A and B, are situated side by side with a brand new Terminal C serving as the main Arrivals hub. Terminal C raises the airport’s projected passenger capacity from 3.6-4 million annual passengers to 5.5-6 million. All three terminals feature spotless toilets, money exchange counters, ATMs, information points, refreshment stops, pharmacy and car rental counters. The Airport has also recently updated its Business Traveller services for more comfortable arrivals and departures. Services included an expanded Business Lounge, Fast Track check in and a new Meet & Assist program that provides all encompassing concierge and valet services. For more info check out their new website. Taxis wait directly outside and can deliver you to Katowice for 95-160zł. (always confirm price first). ‘Airport Bus Service’/’Matuszek’ shuttle service makes the same journey for only 25zł (to Kraków for 50zł), and departure times from in front of both terminals are coordinated with flight arrivals (shuttles are even cheaper if you book online). Dropping off at ul. Andrzeja (M-12), you can pay cash to the driver on the spot or book ahead on their website: www. matuszek.com.pl. Airport Buses arrive (and depart) in the new local bus terminal located under the central train station in the city center and you can find their schedule here: www.pkm. katowice.pl/lotnisko. Full schedules for flights, as well as other essential travel information can be found at the userfriendly www.katowice-airport.com. Qul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 392 72 02, www.katowiceairport.com.

JAKDOJADE Despite the fact that Katowice’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the katowice.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a wonderful and free tool for advance planning, but the paid app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the couple euros you’ll spend to download it. E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Katowice, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only). MYTAXI The world’s first and most popular taxi app is very much available in PL. MyTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location (and allowing you to track its progress) without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Download it for free from their website: mytaxi.com. UBER Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but the company recently opened their European hub in Kraków. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Silesia and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

Katowice-Pyrzowice Airport

UserPiotrus, CC BY-SA 3.0

katowice.inyourpocket.com 13

Arrival & Transport BY BUS

BY CAR

BUS STATION To call Katowice Bus Station (M-11) a ‘bus station’ is a bit of a misnomer. In reality, it’s little more than a small tin shed. Inside you’ll find a small waiting room (open 06:00 - 20:00) and all departures (odjazdy) and arrival times (przyjazdy) noted up on the board (most tickets have to be purchased directly from bus drivers). Outside the few departure lanes offer very little shelter from the elements but there is a drink and snacks shack, and a 24hr bathroom. Located in the heart of town next to the new Supersam shopping mall, to get your bearing after arrival take a swift left turn at ul. Mickiewicza (M/N-11) and within three minutes you’ll find yourself staring at the principal main street, ul. Stawowa (M-11/12). You’ll have to go further onto the Rynek (N-12) to find the nearest tourist information point, however. While it doesn’t offer tickets or phone cards (buy those at most kiosks), it does offer maps and advice and there is also internet.For info on local city buses see Public Transport.QM‑11, ul. Skargi 1, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 15, www.katowicedworzec.pl.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Be cautious and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunkdriving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. You can use your home driving license or an international driving permit for six months from the entry date on your passport. Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.

CAR RENTAL

Katowice is a straight 75km drive west from Kraków along the A4 highway, one of the better stretches of road in the country, but it’s smooth asphalt doesn’t come free. Toll gates can be found at either end at which you will need to pay 20zł if driving a car. This brings you in on Al. Górnośląska (Q-16). The other major route in will bring you along route 79 onto ul. Chorzowska (D-4). Driving around Katowice can be a bit hellish for those uninitiated to the complexity of the city’s oneway streets and the constant presence of roadwork, so we recommend you ditch your vehicle at the earliest opportunity. Car crime is not unheard of and you’ll be safest leaving your ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is also available and generally operates under the control of a local parking warden. He will be wandering along his patch wearing a bib of some colour checking to see who’s naughty and nice. Parking prices are 2 zł for the first hour, 2,40zł for the second hour, 2,80zł for the third and 2zł per hour after that.

All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car. AVIS Avis is Poland’s biggest car rental company and offers a complete range of vehicles for rent throughout Poland. They are located in the city center in Altus and at ul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 601 35 48 12. Open Mon-Fri 08:30-00:30, Sat & Sun 09:00-24:00.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 257 20 70, www.avis. pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. EUROPCAR Europcar offers a full range of vehicles from small hatchbacks, through Mercedes and up to mini-bus and vans. Check the website for additional offers. Also at ul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 32 285 50 41, Open 09:00 - 24:00.QM‑10, ul. Chorzowska 50, tel. (+48) 32 209 57 45, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun, The offices can be staffed outside of these hours for extra payment. 14 Katowice In Your Pocket

GUARDED PARKING QQ‑14, ul. Sikorskiego 20, tel. (+48) 660 78 85 51.

The Polish Fiat, or ‘Maluch’ - produced in PL from 1972-2000; considered a family car during the communist era.

Arrival & Transport

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

TAXIS

An extremely well developed system of trams and buses operated by the wonderfully named KZK GOP provide a simple and fast way of getting around Katowice and its surrounding towns. The tickets for the network are valid for both buses and trams. A three-zone system is used, of which Katowice is in zone-one and Chorzów in zone-two. Accordingly, a one-zone ticket is required for the former and a two-zone ticket for travelling between the two. A one-zone ticket costs 3.20zł and now also serves as a 15min ticket allowing you to swap forms of transport (bus to tram and onto a different tram for instance) within that time period. A two-zone ticket costs 3.80zł and also serves as a 30min ticket. There is also a three-zone/one-hour ticket available for 4.80zł. A 14zł 24hr ticket allows travel within all three zones, though it’s hard to imagine getting your money’s worth out of this without spending the whole day on the tram. Okay, we admit, there’s not much reason to get off.

Taxis are more honest than they were once were in Poland but it still pays to be on your guard especially when getting into a taxi at the main train station or airport. Make sure you choose a clearly marked taxi with a phone number displayed as well as a sticker showing its prices which you should find in the window. Check the price with the driver before setting off and make sure he turns his meter on. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt for your journey. Most firms will charge you 7zł to get in and then a further 3zł per kilometre when travelling in the city. Travelling outside of city limits and at night is likely to cost up to 50% more than normal. AIRPORT TAXI SERVICE Qtel. (+48) 784 84 68 66, www.taxipyrzowice.pl. CITY TAXIQN‑10, tel. (+48) 32 203 77 77, www.citytaxi.katowice.pl. ECHO TAXIQN‑10, tel. (+48) 32 201 42 00, www.echotaxi.com.pl.

Almost all travel within Katowice and Chorzów can be accomplished using trams, most of which run through the stop at the Rynek. Tram numbers 6, 11 and 19 run between the Rynek and Chorzów via the Silesia Park and is the most useful tram for getting there and back. Tickets can be bought from any kiosk, or from bright yellow machines found at many tram stops around the city. Make sure you validate your ticket when entering the tram or bus. The penalty for riding without a validated ticket is 90zł (plus the price of the ticket) on the spot. (The normal price of the fine if you don’t pay on the spot is 160zł + price of ticket.)

ENGLISH SERVICE TAXI This is a totally new standard of taxi service in Katowice. All of their experienced drivers are fluent in English and all of the taxis in their fleet are Audis and Mercedes. Of course each car also comes equipped with airconditioning, wi-fi and on board credit card terminals (Visa, Mastercard, American Express). Whether you are going to and from the airport or travelling to a meeting across town, your comfort and ease of travel is always paramount. So forget about being overcharged by a shady driver barking demands in languages you can’t understand. This is a taxi you can truly trust.Qtel. (+48) 607 61 51 21, www.etaxi.katowice.pl.

KATOWICE PUBLIC TRANSPORT COMPANY QN‑11, tel. (+48) 32 743 84 46, www.kzkgop.com.pl.

-taxi

your english service taxi

katowice.inyourpocket.com 15

City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS

MARKET VALUES

Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Katowice and may even win you friends and admirers.

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of November 6, 2018 based on €1 = 4.31zł

On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers candy bar 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

10.50 zł 1.89 zł 29.90 zł 3.29 zł 9.00 zł 2.69 zł 16.00 zł 5.47 zł 3.20 zł

€ 2.44 € 0.44 € 6.94 € 0.76 € 2.09 € 0.62 € 3.71 € 1.27 € 0.74

FACTS & FIGURES TERRITORY Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), the mysterious Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania (103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri)

LONGEST RIVER The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska).

Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

HIGHEST POINT The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra Mountains along the southern border with Slovakia. In comparison, Katowice’s landscape rolls a bit more gently with the city’s elevation between 266-352m above sea level.

My name is... Mam na imię... I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. Cheers! Na zdrowie! Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. I love you. Kocham cię. Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie!

16 Katowice In Your Pocket

(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyelskoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

POPULATION (2016) Poland - 38,483,957 Warsaw - 1,744,400 Kraków - 761,100 Łódź - 700,982 Wrocław - 635,800 Poznań - 542,300 Gdańsk - 462,249 Katowice - 299,012 LOCAL TIME Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Katowice it’s 05:00 in Chicago, 06:00 in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

Non-stop from Katowice to Turin from December 2018 Buy on lot.com

What’s On

Gallery of Steel Figures in Gliwice (p.22)

EVENTS BY DATE 08.11, 29.11, 13.12, 20.12 19:30 » CHAMBER ENSEMBLES OF NOSPR

The chamber ensembles of NOSPR are a series of concerts that includes the musicians from NOSPR along with special guests. Over 60 orchestra musicians and around 20 renowned soloists will also grace the stage that hail from all parts of Poland. Concerts start taking place from November and run through the Spring months. For a full list of events, dates, and performers visit the website below.QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 10zł, www.nospr.org.pl.

16.11, 07.12, 11.01, 01.02, 08.02 19:30 » THE EARLY MUSIC

The Early Music series will fill the 2018/2019 concert season with 12 concerts with a repertoire spanning three periods: baroque, classicism, and romanticism. The performances will include Polish ensembles Camerata Silesia, {oh!} Orkiestra Historyczna, Capella Cracoviensis, and the Octava Ensemble, while also including foreign ones like the Academy of Ancient Music, Orchestra of the Age of Enlightenment, Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin, Kölner Akademie, Les Siècles, and The Marian Consort. For a full list of performances and dates, visit the website. QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 1535zł, www.nospr.org.pl. 18 Katowice In Your Pocket

16.11 - 01.12 » MIKOŁAJ GÓRECKI DAYS

Mikołaj Górecki Days are a series of 6 concerts celebrating the patron of the Silesian Philharmonic. The programs will be performed by three artistic groups of the Silesian Philharmonic along with specially invited guests and will include music written by the famous composer.QM‑11, Silesian Philharmonic, ul. Sokolska 2, tel. (+48) 32 351 17 13, www.filharmonia-slaska.eu.

23.11 - 23.12 » CHRISTMAS MARKET

It might be cold, but the Christmas fair makes braving the chill worth it. Like many other Christmas Markets in Poland, the fair will feature an ice skating rink as well as stalls selling traditional ceramics, handmade toys, wreaths, candles, souvenirs, handicrafts, jewellery, regional sweets, snacks, heart foods and regional products (bigos, pancakes, ham, smoked, cheese, etc.). Christmas pastries like gingerbread, cupcakes, fruitcakes, shortbread, and tree cakes are always a treat; and the mulled wine, hot beer, honey beer, liqueurs and other spirits will keep you warm and festive.QN‑12, Rynek.

23.11, 08.12, 26.01, 16.02, 20.04 19:30 » THE AUKSO CHAMBER ORCHESTRA

For more than fifteen years the AUKSO Chamber Orchestra has been giving concerts in Poland and abroad — in Italy, Spain, Brazil, Germany, Austria, Denmark, France, Ireland, Sweden, Switzerland, Russia, Ukraine, Lithuania and China. The music brings together classical tunes, jazz

What’s On and rock, looking for whatever they share and skilfully playing with elements that keep them apart. Founded in February 1998 at the initiative of young graduates of the Karol Szymanowski Academy of Music in Katowice and Marek Moś, an eminent violinist, conductor and chamber musician, AUKSO (from Greek ‘growth’) has become a symbol of their aspirations and a lodestar for the professional development of its members. Its name emphasises the necessity of constant improvement and creative development and the importance of taking on new and uncommon challenges. QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 20-70zł, www. nospr.org.pl.

24.11 11:00-18:00 » TEDX KATOWICE: THE MARBLE GAME

The Blue Marble is an image of planet Earth taken on December 7, 1972, by the crew of the Apollo 17 spacecraft at a distance of about 29,000 kilometres (18,000 miles) from the surface. It is one of the most reproduced images in human history. This photograph was also used by ecologists as an illustration of our weakness, sensitivity and loneliness in space. This TEDx Katowice event will hold discussions on how we are adapting our lifestyles to the problems the Earth faces, looking at what has worked, what has not, and what have we yet to do. Various speakers will be on hand, some speaking in Polish as well as some in English. The event will take place at ING Bank Śląski on Sokolska 34.QTickets 60zł.

03.12 - 14.12 » UNITED NATIONS CLIMATE SUMMIT

In December Katowice will be the host of the UN Climate Change Conference (COP24). First organised in 1995, the event serves as a forum for developed countries to address climate change, as well as their progress, cooperation and obligations in dealing with it. Close to 20,000 participants are expected to attend, including politicians, NGO representatives, the scientific community and the business sector. This will be the third time that the event takes place in Poland (following Poznan 2008 and Warsaw2013) and it is no surprise that Katowice is in the leading role this time. The last few years have seen this historically industrial, working-class city emerge from a decades-long post-industrial funk. Once a black spot on the map, today Katowice and the surrounding area of Upper Silesia is one of the most innovative, culturally dynamic and economically vibrant regions in the country, undergoing major infrastructure and urban renewal projects. COP24 in Katowice will encompass the 24th Conference of the Parties to the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (COP24), the 14th Meeting of the Parties to the Kyoto Protocol (CMP 14), and the Conference of Signatories to the Paris Agreement (CMA 1).QO‑10, International Congress Centre, Pl. Sławika i Antalla 1, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.cop24. katowice.eu. katowice.inyourpocket.com 19

What’s On 30.11 - 02.12 18:00 » SILESIAN JAZZ FESTIVAL

NOSPR invites to the concerts season 2018/2019

The 13th edition of the Silesian Jazz Festival brings with it 3 consecutive nights filled to the brim with as wide a range as possible of live jazz music. Each evening consists of two concerts, and the repertoire features a variety of musical styles as well as a balance of Polish and European music. The first night will see Grzegorz Nagórski and the Eupho nium Electric Quartet at Miasto Ogrodów along with Jazz Band Młynarski. Lucia Cadotsch + Tricko and Jun Xiao Quintet are at the Rialto Theatre for night two. While the last night is the finale of the 5th Internation Jazz Composition Contest taking place at The Karol Szymanowski Academy of Music.QN‑14, Katowice Miasto Ogrodów, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, Tickets 10-30zł available at ticketportal.pl, www.sjf.ck.art.pl.

What’s going on? facebook.com/KatowiceInYourPocket 18.12 19:00 » MOSCOW CITY BALLET: THE NUTCRACKER

The holiday season isn’t complete without The Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy and the Moscow City Ballet onstage performing it. A timeless classic, The Nutcracker has been seen and performed thousands of times and yet never gets old. Besides, it seems to be the only time of the year that adults enjoy watching inanimate objects coming to life just as much as kids do.QN‑14, Katowice Miasto Ogrodów, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, Tickets 129-169zł available at www.sklep.ebilet.pl, www.makroconcert.com.

19.12 19:00 » MOSCOW CITY BALLET: SWAN LAKE

This timeless and well-known performance, with its costumes, music, and fantastic story that has been choreographed so flawlessly, needs no introduction. It is with dexterity and perfection that the dancers of the Moscow City Ballet bring Peter Tchaikovsky’s fantasy Swan Lake back to life once more. Briefly, the story is of girls that have been turned into swans and live on a lake of tears—a curse that can only be broken by a prince’s love. But even if you know the story, the world-class performance by the Moscow City Ballet is enough reason to attend a second time.QN‑14, Katowice Miasto Ogrodów, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, Tickets 125-165zł available at www.makroconcert. com/pl, www.makroconcert.com/pl.

06.01 » THREE KINGS PARADE

The holiday of Three Kings or Trzech Króli (January 6) marks the end of the Christmas season in impressive style throughout Poland. A wholly Catholic holiday, 3 Kings honours Kaspar, Melchior and Balthazar, the three wise men who visited Jesus at his birth. Celebrations range from small to grand but often include a parade welcoming 20 Katowice In Your Pocket

What’s On the wise men, with characters passing out candy and children dressed in colours signifying Asia, Africa and Europe (the respective homelands of the wise men). Mass is also a compulsory part of the Three Kings holiday as well, with families picking up a piece of blessed chalk during the service that is taken home and used to write the year and the initials “KMB,” with a cross between each letter, above the front door. This tradition is said to protect the family from sickness and misfortune for the year. Fun is also had during the day’s feast when a Three Kings cake is served with either an almond or coin baked inside. Whoever is fortunate enough to land the surprise slice is considered king (or queen) for the day and lucky for the rest of the year. If your cake – which varies by region and can be anything from sponge to fruitcake – is decorated with a crown the lucky almond-eater gets the honour of wearing it. An additional reason to celebrate: In 2011 Parliament officially restored the date as a non-working national public holiday in Poland for the first time since it was cancelled by the communists 50 years earlier, so there’s no need to go work!Qwww.orszak.org.

18.02 20:00-22:00 » BRODKA

Brodka’s rise to stardom began with her winning the 2004 edition of Polish Pop Idol. Her album “Clashes” released in 2016 was proof she is still a big player in the world of music in Poland and abroad with the album going platinum. During these acoustic concerts which are part of the “MTV Unplugged” series, songs from her last few releases, including her debut album will be performed. The artist will be accompanied by a 12-member band composed of musicians who play rarely used instruments such as the harmonium and the saw.QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 150-170zł available at eventim.pl.

28.02 - 03.03 » IEM KATOWICE CHAMPIONS STAGE

Esports is not a new phenomenon in Poland. Proof lies in this edition of the IEM World Championship taking place at Spodek in Katowice. 24 teams from around the world will be competing for a prize pool of $1,000,000 over the course of three weeks. The first two stages will be taking place at the ESL Arena for the Challengers Stage, and the Internation Congress Center for the Legends Stage. The final Champions stage will be a four-day playoff to take place at Spodek in front of a live audience. This is the most lucrative IEM tournament in its history and holds a World Championship status in the world of gaming. QO‑9, Spodek, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 258 32 61, One day entrance: 50-195zł; pass tickets: 250-6 000zł, www.intelextrememasters.com.

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FOOD & WINE

24.11, 25.11 12:00-18:00 » WEGE FESTIVAL SILESIA

Restaurants, producers, manufacturers, and lovers of vegan and vegetarian options come together for a weekend gathering. You will have the opportunity to eat from restaurants in Katowice and Poland, purchase unique and rare food products not sold on the market, and buy clothes and products that fall into the vegan ethos. The festival makes stops in many Polish cities throughout the year and this time it stops in Katowice. QZ‑14, Wilson Shaft Gallery, ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20, Admission free.

10.02 11:00-19:00 » VEGANMANIA

Veganmania showcases the best plant-based offers in Poland. With restaurants from around Poland and the local area, you have the opportunity to test out different menu items created without a meat filling. In addition to the food, you can also discover products made sans animal testing and clothing that is deemed humane in its production. There will also be lectures and discussions to complement the food and products on offer. QO‑10, Spodek, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30. Admission free.

14.04 » NOE FESTIWAL

The NOE Festival is an initiative to promote the culture of wine. The aim of the festival is to expose attendees to a large range of wines from around the world. In addition to the education of the drink that has a history of over 7000 years, the event will also include panels teaching the rules of tasting, how to combine wines with food, and assessing the quality of your drink of choice. Each edition of the festival invites a featured country as the special guest of the festival along with distributors and producers of wine, including Polish winemakers, to promote the culture of this noble drink.QO‑10, International Congress Centre, Pl. Sławika i Antalla 1, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.noefestiwal.pl. katowice.inyourpocket.com 21

What’s On EXHIBITIONS 01.11 - 07.01 » BOLESŁAW BIEGAS: WHEN ART MEETS POLITICS

Controversial, existential, and sometimes reaching into scandalous territory, Biegas was a Polish surrealist and symbolist painter and sculptor who spent much of his life in Paris.The exhibit compiles many of the artist’s works, some from his Vampires deguerre (vampires of war) series, which came out of the era of WWI but were as much a comment on the war between the sexes as they were about what the time in which they surfaced would first suggest. Other works making up the majority of this exhibit are from his Politicians series, which consists of exactly what you might think: portraits of various political figures. What gives these portraits their allure and mystery, however, is the way in which the artist approached his subjects: with people like Mussolini and Hitler painted and presented alongside the likes of Churchill, Roosevelt, Gandhi and Piłsudski—all thoughtfully posed in curious and telling ways. This series presents an ideal opportunity to explore art in relation to greater concepts, such as politics, ideology, morality—like the players on either side of dichotomies like good vs. evil, right vs. wrong, winners vs. losers. QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 24/16zł. Family & group tickets available. Tue free., www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

27.10 - 27.01 » POLISH PRINT TRIENNIAL

The Polish Print Triennial is the oldest and most prestigious showcase of Polish contemporary graphic art. The goal of the exhibitions are to collect and display the most interesting artistic examples within this discipline. Polish graphic art has become a phenomenon on an international level with successive generations of artists and numerous enthusiasts over the years. QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 24/16zł. Family & group tickets available. Tue free., www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

13.11 - 31.12 » GALLERY OF STEEL FIGURES

Think of Madame Tussauds in London, and this is similar - just that the figures and models are all made from recycled metals! What started as a project in a scrapyard in Pruszków (outside Warsaw), has turned into a host of galleries across the country and abroad. 120 craftsmen work attentively to create a range cool pieces inspired by cars, animals, various cartoon and movie characters (Minions, Transformers and the Hulk!) which can be as small as 140cm to 320 cm in height! The weight difference too is impressive, and can be from as little as 50kg to 1,200kg! If you need more detail, the models are made from, well, old nuts, bolts, bits and pieces of metals, basically anything found in a scrapyard! It is visually fascinating and engaging as you can get those perfect photos of you sitting in a car or hugging your favourite movie character. Great value for money!QGallery of Steel Figures, ul. Pszczyńska 315, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 724 54 51 41. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 28/19zł, family ticket 80zł. Children under 3 free. www.galleryofsteelfigures.com. 22 Katowice In Your Pocket

What’s On 02.10 - 05.01 » SILESIAN AND POLISH TIME OF UNCERTAINTY

A special exhibition in conjunction with the centenary celebrations of Poland regaining its independence, The Katowice Historical Museum will hold an exhibition of what life was like in the lead up to Silesia becoming part of the new Poland. “Silesian and Polish time of uncertainty” will touch on the subjects of the threemonth road to independence: the gradual formation and constitution of the authorities, obtaining international acceptance, army formations, and the first battles for undetermined borders. QO‑13, Katowice Historical Museum, ul. Szafranka 9, tel. (+48) 32 256 18 10, Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Tue free., www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

What’s going on? facebook.com/KatowiceInYourPocket 08.11 - 09.12 » THE DANCE OF DEATH

The theme of the dance of death exhibition has its roots in the plague that ravaged medieval Europe and saw a similar resurgence during the world wars of the 20th century. Many artists started to depict their experiences during this tragic time. The exhibition includes Melchior Grossek’s work showing cutouts, sketches, and prints that depict the figure of death in a prominent role during World War I. The artwork comes from a collection of 1000+ pieces and is considered some of the best from the famous priest. QO‑13, Katowice Historical Museum, ul. Szafranka 9, tel. (+48) 32 256 18 10, Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Tue free., www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

27.09 - 05.01 » PAŁKA

60 years of work (1953-2013) by Witold Pałka attempts to showcase cross-sectionally, from early works available in museums and private collections to the latest compositions. Although educated in Kraków and gaining many of his early influences in the city’s art community, he spent most of his life in Katowice, which influenced most of his work. It showed many parts of regional life, steeped in the brital and bland world of mining and industry. Witold also spent time in what is titled his “internal world”. These works usually contained one or more women captured in motionless deep thought. The final part of the exhibition displays activity which depicts concerts, shows, balls and where “strong colours”, movement, energy, and joy of life prevail. QO‑13, Katowice Historical Museum, ul. Szafranka 9, tel. (+48) 32 256 18 10, Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Tue free., www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 15:00, Sat 10:00 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. katowice.inyourpocket.com 23

The heart of Katowice, showing the spruced up main market square (once an ugly giant roundabout!) | ÂŠ Alex WiĹ&#x203A;niewski

Katowice Sightseeing Industrially designed & thoroughly mined, Katowice is well and truly on its way to shaking its former reputation as an ugly city. Over the years this dynamic city has grown on us and we hope that it does the same to you. Read on to see what is waiting to be discovered.

Katowice Sightseeing Katowice, despite its recent architectural and cultural renaissance, can still only dream of achieving the enviable tourist status of neighbouring cities Kraków and Wrocław, which better fit the profile of a top European travel destination. In contrast, much of Katowice’s charm is in its complete non-conformity to that standard template for tourist appeal; here you won’t find a castle or palaces, no ancient ruins...no ‘Old Town,’ per say, no picturesque waterfront. What the region does possess, however (and which you won’t find in haughty Kraków), is a raft of odd and eclectic industrial heritage sites, as well as an increasing range of cultural venues and events which have earned Katowice status as a UNESCO City of Music. A blue collar city to this day, Katowice and its neighbouring cities in Upper Silesia were born into the working class, growing up during the Industrial Revolution and put to work in sooty mine shafts, factories and railway yards. The area’s history is inextricably entwined with the manufacture of coal and steel, and the stacks, shafts and massive waves of migrants that followed the discovery of the region’s mineral resources. As such, any mention of tourism in the district is usually preceded by the word, ‘industrial.’ Enthusiasts of this topic are advised to get their hands on a copy of Silesia’s Industrial Monuments Route, which can be picked up free of charge in any Silesian tourist information office, and while we’ve covered many of the entailed sites in this very guide, the region has plenty more to offer than we have space to include here. After decades of decay, Katowice has undergone massive redevelopment in the post-communist era to become a growing business and cultural centre. Although there was a time, not long ago in fact, when being a tourist in this town was a very strange and lonely enterprise, the times have very much changed. Today Katowice’s city centre is packed with modern architecture, and filled with cafes, restaurants, pubs, clubs and shops to match all tastes. Those seeking more conventional interpretations of the word ‘attraction’ will find plenty of cleaned-up 19th century architecture in the form of handsome townhouses in Downtown Katowice (p.26), particularly along ulica 3-go Maja between the Rynek (p.26) and Plac Wolności (p.28). The Silesian Museum (p.31) - located on the site of the former Katowice Coal Mine - is one of the best museums in southern Poland, and forms the fulcrum of the city’s new Cultural Zone (p.30). Outdoor types can visit the fantastic Valley of Three Ponds (p.32) featuring everything from beaches to cycle paths; or head over to the vast Silesia Park (p.34), which is packed with family attractions (including an amusement park and zoo), and offers great views via the Elka Cableway (p.35). Finally, shutterbugs should visit Nikiszowiec (p.36) for its offbeat art, architecture and photo ops galore. We hope you embrace the city for its curiosities and use our guide to go out and enjoy yourself. And the next time you hear someone slagging off Katowice for its slag heaps and smokestacks, you set the record straight.

TOURIST INFO & TOURS If IYP’s authoritative print guide, exhaustive web portal (iyp.me/katowice) and handy mobile app (iyp.me/app) just aren’t enough and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), here are the best tourist resources in town. CITY INFORMATION OFFICE With a several-storey, blinking blue and yellow neon sign, Katowice’s City Information Office is hard to miss and isn’t it just downright adorable to see them trying so hard? The super-friendly staff can offer time-killing suggestions in English or German and they stock a range of materials about the many things you’ll probably never see or do across Silesia. Free maps and lots of information on daily cultural events, as well as three new computers.QN‑12, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 259 38 08, www.katowice.eu. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. PTTK KATOWICE Feeling a bit lost or uncertain about Katowice? Take a guided tour with an English, German or Frenchspeaking guide and get an inside perspective on what Katowice has to offer (sometimes you need a second opinion). Demand for the service being what it is, dropping by the office won’t do; ring PTTK to make an arrangement and you’ll probably make their day as well. Services available year round. QN‑12, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 253 03 62, www.pttk.katowice.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:15 - 16:00, Closed Sun. SILESIATRIP.PL Silesia Trip is a useful and comprehensive way to comfortably explore much of the region around Katowice. Offering 24 hour pick-up services from both the Katowice and Kraków airports, Silesia Trip has a plethora of tours, locales, and sights included in their itineraries, including everyday trips to the Guido Mine, Auschwitz-Birkenau, Wieliczka Salt Mine, the historic silver mine in Tarnowskie Góry, Częstochowa, Trail of the Eagle’s Nest in the Jura Upland, the Queen Louise Adit in Zabrze and the Tyskie Brewery in Tychy. Tours are available in English, French, Italian, Polish, Spanish and Russian and are targeted for those who have a particular interest in the history, culture and people of Eastern Silesia. They also offer traditional tours with an audio guide starting from their brand new headquarters, info point and souvenir shop on ul. Mariacka. As of May, the same tours will be available on bike! Pick up some sweet Silesia swag and Katowice related gadgets before or after your trip or tour.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 11, tel. (+48) 502 11 63 31, www.katowice-tours.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. katowice.inyourpocket.com 25

Downtown Katowice

Katowice’s newly renovated Rynek (market square). | Courtesy of Katowice City Council

Katowice’s city centre was once a bleak, drab place. Just ten to fifteen years ago, early readers of this guide might find themselves standing near Katowice’s Rynek (market square) - which was nothing more than a giant roundabout - pondering what brought them there, questioning their very existence even, as rain poured down their faces.... Wake up from that frightful image! Kato’s city centre, though not exactly comparable to its more famous neighbouring city (K...Kra...yeah, that one), looks much better than it has ever looked before. And that sums up Katowice as a whole, which has undergone a huge regeneration in the last decade to become a post-industrial city of culture. The area around the Katowice train station, the main street ul. Mariacka - full of bars and restaurants, all of them have been spruced up and no longer ooze with sadness (and urine) as you walk through. There’s plenty to see and do here, even if you’re only in the city for a short time. Read on for our recommendations. RYNEK (MARKET SQUARE) Until recently, one could easily be forgiven for standing in the middle of the market square and trying to find the market square. The construction works finished and the snazzy new Rynek 2.0 is complete with a flowing river, deck chairs and trees. Before the massive overhaul (and we mean massive!), Katowice’s ‘Rynek’ was basically a large traffic roundabout and tram stop surrounded by a faded collection of mismatched buildings in architectural styles that had mostly fallen out of favour, if they ever engendered any enthusiasm to begin with. For years the city has known that turning its market square into, you know, an actual market square, would be a crucial step 26 Katowice In Your Pocket

towards becoming a respectable Polish city. A plan to modernise and pedestrianise the Rynek was put in place as far back as 2008. The first step was modernising the Sovietera monstrosity at ul. Młyńska that uglied up an entire block of the Rynek and they elegantly transformed it into the new modern City Hall.QN‑12, Rynek. UL. MARIACKA This is Katowice’s main high street, located a mere 5 minute walk from the Rynek (market square), and arguably a better starting point for visitors than the city’s market square itself. It’s best to think of Mariacka as not only the central ‘strip’ of the city’s bar scene, but also a magnet for the surrounding area, which is a hotbed of pubs and clubs, cafes and restaurants. Charming, relatively calm and clean by day, at night Mariacka becomes a hotbed for partiers and anyone looking to feel the pulse of the city. In summer, there are beer gardens aplenty, and in winter,

Ul. Mariacka

Downtown Katowice despite the cold, people still flock here to get their drink on. Exactly 378m long, Mariacka was laid out in 1875 and stretches three city blocks before terminating at St. Mary’s Church (Kościół Mariacki), from which the street’s current name hails. Originally named Holtzestraße after local doctor, statesman and city co-founder Richard Holtze, the street has been known as ul. Mariacka since Katowice became part of Poland following WWI, with the exception of WWII, during which Holtze’s name was reinstated. Once lined with drab buildings and parked cars on both sides, but also littered with strip clubs and dubious massage parlours, in 2008 Mariacka was utterly transformed from a seedy side-street into the pedestrianised high street it is today, with new lamps and benches and a more modern aesthetic making way for a more classy crop of tenants. While some still complain that the sheer number of cheap bars in such a short stretch impacts the overall atmosphere of the street, the truth is that this is a street of two extremes. The western half, starting at ul. Mielęckiego, is where the majority of the bars are, whereas the closer you get to the church, the atmosphere gradually changes as nicer restaurants and cafes reign, providing a calmer, more pleasant experience.QO‑12, Ul. Mariacka. KATOWICE HISTORICAL MUSEUM This outstanding museum showcasing some of the more interesting aspects of the life and times of the city and its people is divided into two main sections. You can wander the well conceived rooms on three floors including a superb recreation of house interiors of the middle and upper classes from 20, 50 and 100 years ago. The other main exhibit “Z dziejów Katowic” covers the breadth of the city’s early history before officially being founded. Entrance to the exhibit is limited to 15 people every half an hour, all descriptions are in English, and the films also have English subtitles. One of the best museums in southern Poland. QO‑13, ul. Szafranka 9, tel. (+48) 32 256 18 10, www. mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Thu 10:00 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Tue free. SILESIAN PARLIAMENT A standing testament to Katowice’s short-lived ‘golden age,’ the Silesian Parliament complex covers an entire city block between Jagiellońska, Reymonta, Ligonia and Lompy streets and was the largest structure in PL before Stalin ‘gifted’ Warsaw with a certain monstrosity. Completed in 1929, the Parliament complex served as the governing seat of Silesia after the province was inexplicably granted autonomy following WWI. Unfortunately Hitler failed to observe the region’s sovereignty when he reclaimed it for the Reich after a short 19 years of self-government. After WWII, the new Polish government stripped Silesia of its prestige, confused by how Katowice could possibly have ever been considered the second capital of PL. Today the Parliament buildings house the offices of the Silesian Voivodeship, though many have changed function and more still are solely occupied by wistful memories of bygone days.QN‑13, Plac Sejmu Śląskiego. katowice.inyourpocket.com 27

Downtown Katowice JEWISH KATOWICE

KATOWICE MIASTO OGRODÓW To give it its full name, ‘Katowice Miasto Ogrodów im. Krystyny Bochenek’ (Katowice City of Gardens named in honour of Krystyna Bochenek) was founded in 2016 after the Katowice Institute of Culture merged with the Katowice Centre for Culture and is now located across from the Silesian Parliament. Since its inception, the centre has become a cultural hub focusing on funky art shows and music events taking place throughout the year. When you finish your perusing, take a break in the Hipnoza jazz club bar or Strefa Centralna cafe located in the building. Check out their events calendar at www.miastoogrodow.eu.QN‑14, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, www.miasto-ogrodow.eu. Galleries open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Photo by Polar123, wikipedia

The history of Katowice’s Jews is both short and horrific. It’s been recorded that in 1815 there was just one solitary Jew living in Katowice, who owned an inn, small brewery and stables on the site of the Skarbek department store on the Rynek. Upon the completion of a direct rail connection in 1846, however, Jews began moving to Katowice in greater numbers. The first Jewish prayer house opened in 1855, and the first synagogue, at the corner of ul. 3 Maja and ul. Słowackiego (M-12), in 1862. By the turn of the 20th century, Katowice was home to about 2,000 Jews who not only prospered in the classic trades of medicine, law and commerce, but also contributed heavily to the industrial make-up of the city, owning several large mills and factories. The most remarkable contribution Katowice made to the history of modern Jewry is that of the Katowice Conference which took place November 6-11, 1884. Although no documents survive, the general belief is that 22 Jews from Russia, France, Germany, Romania, Palestine and the UK came to Katowice (the precise location is unknown) to discuss the founding of a Jewish nation in the Middle East. The meeting was chaired by the Polish-born Zionist, Leon Pinsker, aka Yehudah Leib Pinsker (1821-1891), who proposed that as the Jews were never going to receive fair treatment in Europe they should all move to the country he was living at the time, Palestine. Pinsker’s belief was - as history has shown in gruesome detail - correct, though even he couldn’t have imagined the scale of the events that were to take place less than half a century later.

CLOUD SCRAPER ‘Flying Saucer’ and ‘Cloud Scraper’: Katowice’s landmarks may be lacking a bit of colour but they certainly have colourful names. Drapacz Chmur is another local icon whose beauty and relevance may have faded, but perhaps no building more represents the optimism of Katowice’s autonomous inter-war years. Although unimpressive by today’s standards and hardly even able to get its chin above the neighbours, this was the second skyscraper built in Poland. The work of architect Tadeusz Kozłowski and engineer Stefan Bryła, the structure was completed in 1934 following five years of work. Measuring 60 metres in height, it remained the tallest building in Poland until 1955 when it was surpassed by Warsaw’s monstrous Palace of Culture and Science. The steel-framed building was touted as 17 storeys (counting its three subterranean levels), and was one of the first in the country equipped with garbage chutes. As the tallest thing in town Cloud Scraper was used as a sniper station during the short-lived defence of Katowice against Nazi occupation. Though built during an era when decent design sense still prevailed, Cloud Scraper was well ahead of its time and today stands inconspicuously as a prime example of functionalist architecture.QM‑13, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 15. PLAC WOLNOŚCI Likely due to a lack of competition, this small oval of greenish pleasantry west of the train station stands out from Katowice’s urban tangle as one of the city’s more recognisable landmarks and orientation points. From the

On the day the Germans invaded Poland in 1939 there were somewhere between 9,000 and 13,000 Jews living in Katowice. Most were sent to Auschwitz via the Zagłębie (Sosnowiec) Ghetto. Although as many as 1,500 Jews returned to the city after the war, most left again soon after. Little remains to be seen of prewar Jewish life in the city today, with the exception of the neglected Jewish Cemetery (ul. Kozielska 16, K/L-13) and an obscure monument where the Great Synagogue once stood (Plac Synagogi, M-11). Silesian Parliament

28 Katowice In Your Pocket

Downtown Katowice STREET ART

Strefa Centralna cafe in Katowice Miasto Ogrodów

first city plan in the 1860s, this square was designed as a main axis point and was already home to Kattowitz’s first Catholic church (later destroyed during the rapid, thoughtless expansion of the turn of the 20th century). Then known as ‘Wilhelmsplatz’, the square first sported a monument of Kaisers Wilhelm I and Frederic III looking rather buddy-buddy atop a large pedastal. After Katowice’s post-WWI promotion to capital of the autonomous now-Polish province of Silesia, hero of the Silesian Uprisings, Wojciech Korfanty, and city president Stanisław Wojciechowski unveiled the memorial Tomb of the Unknown Insurgent in 1923. The space’s new identity as ‘Freedom Square’ soon became ironic, however, when that memorial was replaced with a monument of two thuggish tommy-gun wielding Red Army soldiers standing atop a truly hideous concrete pedestal which was finally removed in 2014 after years of protests. Just east of where the monument used to stand you’ll find a small and rather ugly fountain, and the square is also surrounded by several unremarkable buildings, with the exception of the monumental neoRenaissance Goldstein Palace at number 12A. Built in 1875, this building formerly housed the Chamber of Commerce, becoming the local branch of the dubious Polish-Soviet Friendship Association after WWII. Having most recently seen life as a restaurant, the Goldstein House has been repossessed by the city and currently functions as the City Civil Affairs Office.QL‑12, Plac Wolności. BWA CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY In Katowice since 1949, BWA showcase works by both established and budding young artists, exhibiting the most modern trends in contemporary art and promoting the work of local artists. The building the BWA is located in is just along from the Rynek and is a typically brutal building inspired by socialist modernism - some may hate this style, but others may just love it. All works are spaced out between independent spaces over two floors and a visit is a must if you wish to see what up and coming Silesian artists are producing after rolling up their sleeves...QN‑11, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, www.bwa. katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3zł.

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. The art form actually flourished under communism and these stylish high-minded aesthetics (although faded) can still be found around the country’s walls. In the last few years new street murals have become a common sight around Katowice. Surprisingly, city authorities have even taken the step of sponsoring some large scale murals to playfully embellish public spaces. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in Katowice’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific gang signs, slurs and footballrelated graffiti. The best thing about street art is that you can visit it anytime of the year, wind, rain or shine - we recommend checking out the yearly plans for the Katowice Street Art Festival (AiR, for short), and you may be lucky to see some street art being created. At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Katowice as we have catalogued and GPSed street art addresses throughout the city. We’ve marked each place with a spray can symbol on the maps in the back of our guide, so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Katowice’s urban art. Even if you’re only in the city for a short time, you can visit central locations, from the fantastic ‘Zachód Słońce’ (Sunset) neon sign above the River Rawa in the Rynek (N-12) to the crowning glory, ul. Mariacka Tylna (O-12) and the immediate surrounding area through the underpass and under the rail bridges, where there are more than enough murals by international and local artists to appease your appetite! From Belgium’s ROA, Spain’s ARYZ, and local Polish and Silesian talents Raspazjan and Mona Tusz, you won’t be disappointed with your street art walkabout. Also, wandering around Kato, you’ll stumble across painted and stencilled gas and electricity boxes. They are frequently changed and too many to mention, but you’ll no doubt see plenty of box and wall sketchings on your travels around the city. Happy hunting.

Rooster by ARYZ on ul. Mariacka Tylna.

katowice.inyourpocket.com 29

Cultural Zone

Photo by Alex Wiśniewski, courtesy of Katowice City Council

The days of heavy industry in Katowice are over, and now, the beating heart of Silesia is found in its rich culture. Nowhere is this more visible than on the territory of the former Katowice Coal Mine, which has been drastically rejuvenated and redeveloped as part of the city’s official ‘Cultural Zone’ (Strefa Kultury). Linking the city centre’s iconic Spodek arena with the former pitheads of the Katowice mine, the Cultural Zone consists of four core venues: the other worldly Spodek; the pristine NOSPR (along with its outdoor amphitheatre), home to the Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, as well as one of the best concert halls in Europe in terms of acoustic quality; the International Congress Centre, with its grass-covered rooftop from which you can view the Katowice skyline; and at the far end of zone, the fantastic Silesian Museum situated 13m underground in the former coal mine. The addition of these buildings has not only visually and architecturally enriched a once potholed moonscape, but packed the cultural calendar with high-calibre events attended by thousands throughout the year, the highlight arguably being the Tauron New Music Festival each summer.

Spodek

30 Katowice In Your Pocket

SPODEK In 1958 the Association of Polish Architects ran a competition to design a new stadium in Katowice. Won by a Warsaw company and designed by Maciej Gintowt and Maciej Krasiński, the resulting Wojewódzka Hala Widowiskowo-Sportowa w Katowicach (translating something like ‘Katowice Province Spectator & Sports Arena’) was built in stages between 1964 and 1971, and at 246,624 square metres is the one of the largest, certainly one of the strangest and, to some, the most beautiful piece of reinforced concrete in Poland. Nicknamed ‘Latający Spodek’ (Flying Saucer) the building was originally going to be built in Silesia Park but because of its avant-garde appearance finally landed in the city centre. Holding 11,000 people part of the building was in use in 1969, though the grand opening only took place on May 9, 1971. The reason for this delay was simple – in their wisdom the designers had picked a landsite suffering ‘medium mine damage’. That meant the possibility of cave-ins and collapse so the building was road-tested by 3,500 stamping (and dare we say it, nervous) soldiers. Given the thumbs-up by equally relieved engineers the building has been inspiring and amusing people ever since. A popular sporting venue, Spodek is also Katowice’s number one place for international concerts, having hosted a disparate collection of stars including Metallica and Depeche Mode. Today it also houses the Diament Spodek Hotel, and according to urban legend, the classic tune from Spielberg’s ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’ plays every time the building’s lights go on.QO‑10, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.spodekkatowice.pl.

Cultural Zone INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS CENTRE The newest architectural jewel in Katowice’s eclectic crown and this one comes with lush green rooftop carpeting (keep off the grass!). And like any good carpet, it really ties the proverbial ‘room’ together (ie the Cultural Zone) by forming a highly functional and even elegant emerald ‘bridge’ between the socialist Sci-Fi Spodek and the more modernist NOSPR building. This huge multipurpose facility is more than just its mossy exterior though. With the capacity to accommodate 15,000 visitors, coupled with the Spodek Arena next door, it is one of the largest venues in Poland for conferences, exhibitions, trade fairs and sporting events.QO‑10, Plac Sławika i Antalla 1, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.mckkatowice.pl. NOSPR - POLISH NATIONAL RADIO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Considered the leading Polish orchestra, the Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra (NOSPR) was founded in 1935 in Warsaw. As a cultural ambassador representing Poland on the international art scene, it has cooperated with some of the greatest composers of the second half of the 20th century presenting first performances of their works. In 2014 Katowice celebrated the unveiling of its newest architectural and cultural jewel - the new headquarters of the NOSPR. Not only is this one of the more striking and architecturally astonishing buildings to be built in Poland in recent years, it is also one of the most acoustically pristine performance halls in all of Europe. To perfect the pin drop precision of the main hall’s acoustics, the Katowice based Architecture firm Konior collaborated with Yasushisa Toyota - founder of the Japanese Acoustics solutions company Nagata Acoustics (creators of the Walt Disney Hall in Los Angeles, among others). Their collaboration resulted in a sonically rich and visually stunning performance hall that can seat over 1,800 people with no obstructed views. The main concert hall is also equipped with cutting edge technology to both broadcast concerts live and record multi track albums live. This is truly a building fitting of Poland’s finest orchestra and is set to solidify Katowice’s place in the classical music world.

NOSPR

Silesian Museum

Check NOSPR’s website for concert tickets or plan your next trip to Katowice around a trip to this absolute shrine of a Symphony Hall. The ticket box office is open Tue-Sat 10:00 - 20:00 and on Sun 2 hours before a performance. QO‑10, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, www.nospr.org.pl. U SILESIAN MUSEUM The grand opening of the brand new home of the Silesian Museum is perhaps the biggest of Katowice’s recent investment unveilings. The museum’s scope, quality of the permanent exhibitions and the architectural prowess of the newly adapted subterranean chambers are all equally impressive. Approaching the Silesian Museum from the city centre, the first visible element of the museum is the prominent mine shaft hoist tower of the former Katowice Coal Mine. There are dozens of such towers spread all over Silesia, many of which remain operational. This particular mine shaft hoisted its last load of black diamonds in 1999 when the entire mine complex was closed for good after operating for 176 years and hauling over 120 million tonnes of coal! Today, this impressive steel structure has been adapted into an elevator-accessible viewing tower which offers spectacular views of Katowice and other close-lying Silesian suburbs (open dependent on weather conditions). The next striking feature you will notice are the large transparent glass buildings that cover the entire expanse of terrain. Their presence offers a thoroughly modern counterpoint to the 18th century historical buildings which make up the rest of the museum’s exhibition space. There are six main ‘buildings’ (both old and new) that make up the Silesian Museum campus, a few of which have yet to be opened to the public. Descending into the subterranean chambers of the Silesian Museum the impressive interiors open up before your eyes. The main museum is spread out over four underground levels and has a floor area of nearly 25,000 m², of which 6,000 m² is devoted to exhibition space (both permanent and temporary) - all of which has been adapted from the former tunnels, shafts and workshops of the former mine.QP‑11, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 24/16zł. Family & group tickets available. Tue free. katowice.inyourpocket.com 31

Katowice: East & South

Learn about the pacification of the Wujek Mine in the Freedom Centre

If the hustle and bustle of urban exploration is not your thing, there’s always the relative calm, relaxation and leisure possibilities to be found in the south of the city. Fear not, it’s not too far from the centre at all - only 15 minutes by bike, 10 by bus; in fact the huge Katowice Forest Park is within city limits, as well as the Valley of Three Ponds with its fantastic spaces for beach lounging in summer, cycling, skating and jogging anytime of the year, a seasonal bar, and a waterpark for the kids. If all this sounds a bit too noisy for you, there’s always the enjoyment of relaxing in the squirrel-filled Tadeusz Kościuszko Park with child play areas, the famous Parachute Tower and plenty of quiet areas to just enjoy some silence. If history is your thing, check out the Silesian Solidarity and Freedom Centre, which is focused on the events surrounding the pacification of the Wujek Mine. Muchowiec Airport is also nearby; although mainly used for training pilots, sightseeing tours of Katowice can be arranged.

Those are just clouds, not smoke from the chimney...

32 Katowice In Your Pocket

SILESIAN FREEDOM & SOLIDARITY CENTRE This museum is a dedication to, and indeed a memorial, to the events surrounding 16 December 1981, known as the ‘Pacification of Wujek.’ Shortly after Martial Law was declared in Poland on 13 December 1981 by General Wojciech Jaruzelski, workers at the famous Wujek mine went on strike and were immediately met with a brutal show of force, which left nine dead. The museum itself has one permanent exhibition - ‘the Memorial Room of Wujek Coal-mine’, and uniquely, the guides themselves are former workers of the mine that took part in the protest. English speaking guides are on offer, however, you must call in advance to arrange.QH‑16, ul. Wincentego Pola 38, tel. (+48) 32 601 21 08, www.scwis.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. VALLEY OF THREE PONDS If you’ve ever been to that other Polish city beginning with a K, you may have noticed the riverfront is a popular place for locals to go hang out. In Kato things are no different. Although the river in the centre is nothing to boast about, slightly south you will find the city’s most popular recreation area - Valley of Three Ponds. First established as a 125 hectare leisure space in the 1960s before being absorbed into the 420 hectare Katowice Forest Park which today surrounds the small Muchowiec airfield south of the centre. Though ‘Valley of Three Ponds’ is generally applied to all woodless areas surrounding ul. Trzech Stawów and Forest Park’s 11 (not 3) ponds, the name technically refers to the smaller, more cultivated area located just beyond. In this vicinity you’ll find a seasonal campground, tennis courts and a fine restaurant (Pan de Rossa) with inspiring views overlooking

Katowice: East & South the water. Of the ponds in the immediate vicinity, the most popular has a beach for bathing, another is reserved for water sports, and several are available for fishing. The entire park is also full of trails, making it a popular place for cyclists and joggers. In the summer months, it’s also a great place for kids to visit with its outdoor water park. Most easily accessed by bike (see City by Bike, p.70) or instead take buses 674 or 910 from the centre, getting off at the Trzy Stawy shopping mall. It’s a short walk east from there.QS‑16, ul. Trzech Stawów. FABRYKA PORCELANY If you’ve ever been to Łódź’s ‘Manufaktura’ then you’ll kinda get the idea of what this place is trying to be. No, there is no large shopping centre, but what else it has to offer fits the bill. Here since the 1920s and originally the Giesche porcelain factory, the modern day ‘Fabryka Porcelany’ is now run by the Giesche Foundation (created in 2012) which has revamped the site to be an industrial and technological park housing design offices, art galleries, interior design shops and a concert/event venue known as P23. There is also the fantastic Prodiż Bistro & Prodiż Nero Restaurant for people visiting the site - providing a warm welcome to all visitors at the entrance to the whole complex. the site has been creating porcelain since the 1920s and still has a working furnace involved with production on site! To get there take bus 940 from the bus station on level -1 of Galeria Katowicka.QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23, www.porcelanaslaska.pl.

WHERE TO EAT NEW PRODIŻ NERO RESTAURANT Bistro by day, and Nero by...well, nero. Following on from the success of Prodiż Bistro’s rise in popularity after its opening in 2016 in the revamped Fabryka Porcelany, the owners have stepped up their game with their latest venture - the perfect blend from bistro to fine restaurant has culminated in the arrival of Prodiż Nero. If you’ve been impressed by Bistro, Nero offers up that little bit extra. Italian dishes, offered with the local flare of the chef, which to us perfectly sums up the impressive changes in gastronomy in Katowice over the last 10 years - traditional, mixed with a confident modernity. Nero serves up some fine pizzas from a wood-fired oven (ahem, the tallest in Poland, apparently!) and a frequently changing menu means you’ll always be surprised by each visit (best check their Facebook page for menu updates). The location is unique, the bistro is already awesome, and Nero just continues the good vibe of the area.QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.

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UL. PORCELANOWA 23, KATOWICE (FABRYKA PORCELANY), TEL. +48 667 162 105 katowice.inyourpocket.com 33

Silesia Park

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Silesia Park Aside from perhaps Warsaw, Upper Silesia, and particularly its ‘capital’, Katowice, has always felt like the region of Poland most buggered by the communists. The scars are dotted around from the severe socialist apartment complexes to the towering smokestacks. However, Poland’s communist regime was not completely without forward vision and only a few years after ‘inheriting’ the stripped industrial wastes of Upper Silesia after World War II, party leaders earmarked a vast 620 hectare plot on the borderlands of Katowice and Chorzów with the intention of creating the largest urban park in Europe. The land in question was far from an untouched patch of wilderness. On the contrary, the designated area was 75 percent devastated by mining and industrial waste, with the rest being undesirable marshland and dead trees. Under the direction of local hero Jerzy Ziętek, an important Silesian Insurrectionist turned politician, work began as early as 1950 on what was known as the Provincial Park of Culture and Recreation (Wojewódzki Park Kultury i Wypoczynku or WPKiW): one of the most ambitious and pioneering environmental renewal projects ever undertaken in Europe. In typical party fashion, Silesia’s working class was strongly encouraged to participate in the creation of this ‘people’s park’ - industrial workers to school children joined in the digging and planting of an astounding 3.5 million trees and shrubs in the first year alone, as the project moved forward at a record pace. In total 3.5 million tonnes of soil were moved to shape the area of the park, and 500,000 cubic metres of humus used to fertilise it. After completing the rehabilitation of the landscape, the park committee systematically set about establishing a series of attractions in the vast space of WPKiW, including an amusement park, zoo, planetarium (currently closed for renovation), narrow-gauge railway, the Silesian Stadium, Elka cableway and others as the park developed intensively in the 1950s-70s. In 1989, when the regime crumbled, the park began a period of stagnation. However, since it became a public enterprise subsidised by the state budget in 2003, it has re-established itself as one of southern Poland’s biggest attractions. The last several years have seen an official name change to the much more parsable ‘Silesia Park,’ world-class rides added to the Legendia amusement park, as well as the opening of parks for more popular modern pursuits including the rope park and dirt bike course. Silesian Stadium (Stadion Śląski) has been totally modernised, and numerous restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels continue to open in and around the park. ELKA CABLEWAY So you’ve arrived at Silesia Park and you realise just how big the whole place really is. You now have a choice walk, find a city bike, take the narrow gauge railroad or, to get a birds eye view, take the Elka Cableway, carrying you conveniently from one end of the park to the other

GETTING THERE Getting to Silesia Park from Katowice is as easy as hopping on a tram or bus (tram being the fastest). There are four tram and bus stops along the course of the park: ‘Park Śląski Wesołe Miasteczko’ (amusement park), ‘Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny’ (the zoo), ‘Park Śląski Wejście Główne’ (main entrance) and ‘Chorzów Stadion Śląski’ (Silesian Stadium). Take trams 6, 11 or 19; or buses 6, 820, 830 or 840 (getting off at Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny). Chorzów is in zone 2 of Katowice’s public transport system so we recommend getting a 3,80zł zone 2 ticket which will get you to the park comfortably and beyond. in 40 minutes (a distance of 2185 metres!), and you’ll get some absolutely great views on the way in your choice of an 8-person cabin or a 4-person chair. Tickets can be purchased from ticket machines at either Point A, found at Legendia Amusement Park, or Point B, at the Silesian Stadium. Adults pay 10zł one way, 15zł return. Kids aged 3-16 and those with a disability pay 8zł one way, 12zł return. The last journey of the day leaves 15mins before closure.QI‑7, Promenade Gen. Jerzego Ziętka, Chorzów, www.elka.parkslaski.pl. Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Opening hours are subject to change from December. Please check their website for more information. ZOO Located in Silesia Park, PL’s largest zoo is a massive 50 hectare extravaganza with 2,465 animals of 390 species from all over the world, including crowd favourites such as hippos, rhinos, Siberian tigers and cheetahs. The kids will be thoroughly enthralled thanks to a petting zoo and Dinosaur Valley, which features some rather silly concrete dinos. Feeding times for red pandas daily at 12:00 and pelicans 09:30 & 17:00.QH‑5, Promenade Gen. Jerzego Ziętka 7 (Park of Culture & Recreation, Chorzów), tel. (+48) 666 03 14 96, www.zoo.silesia.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Tickets 15/5zł, family 35zł.

Elka Cableway

katowice.inyourpocket.com 35

Nikiszowiec

Nikiszowiec | Photo courtesy of Katowice City Council

The former workers’ district of Nikiszowiec is home to some highly unique early 20th century architecture as well as an excellent modern art gallery, a magnificent church and a few additional offbeat attractions. This forgotten attempt at plebeian paradise is earmarked on Silesia’s ‘Industrial Monuments Route’ (available at all Silesian tourist information offices) and offers intrepid visitors a confounding, yet fascinating glimpse at a foregone age. While not long ago a walk around the neighbourhood may have been a dicey prospect, cafes and culture are now beginning to creep into this part of town and you’re no longer likely to be the only tourist prowling around. Perfect for a photo essay, charge up your camera battery and off you go. Built between 1908 and 1912 to house workers in the backyard of their place of employment – the large smoke-churning Wieczorek (formerly ‘Giesche’) coal mine – the enclosed residential complex of Nikiszowiec is composed of six compact four-sided three-storey blocks with inner courtyards. Distinguished by its uniformity of style – red brick buildings accented with red-painted windowframing, and narrow streets joined by handsome arcades – the neighbourhood was designed by Georg and Emil Zillman of Berlin-Charlottenburg to be a completely self-sufficient community for 1,000 workers with a school, hospital, police station, post office, swimming pool, bakery and church. Thanks to WWI and the subsequent Silesian Uprisings – during which time Nikiszowiec saw fierce fighting, and was afterwards incorporated into Poland – St. Anne’s Church (Pl. Wyzwolenia 21) wasn’t able to be finished until 1927, but became the crowning glory of the neighbourhood as soon as it was. Though 36 Katowice In Your Pocket

it would ironically seem to be a socialist planners’ wet dream, Nikiszowiec actually makes a happy, handsome departure from downtown Katowice and has become a prized location for amateur photographers and budding filmmakers due to the fact that it has remained virtually unchanged since the Second World War. City marketers have also recognised the district’s uniqueness with increasing efforts to draw tourist attention to the area and a long campaign afoot to fasten Nikiszowiec to the UNESCO Heritage List. Though the district is generally safe to wander, you should still exercise sensible precautions about where you stick both your nose and that fancy new digital camera; and who you do it in front of.

GETTING THERE Only 8km/20mins from Katowice’s city centre, getting to Nikiszowiec is simple. There are four bus options - numbers 30 (every 30 mins) and 920 (every 30/60 mins) travel from Al. Korfantego in front of the Katowice Hotel (N-11), with the no.30 going straight to Nikiszowiec’s ‘Szyb Wilson’ stop (near Wilson Shaft Gallery), and the 920 taking a longer route to the ‘Szyb Pułaski’ stop via Giszowiec. From Katowice Dworzec (N-11) bus no. 674 (every 30 mins) also goes to the ‘Szyb Pułaski’ stop via Giszowiec, while bus no. 930 (every hour, from Katowice Dworzec and Al. Korfantego) goes directly to Nikiszowiec’s main square - the ‘Nikiszowiec Kościół’ stop. All stops are within Zone 1 of Katowice’s public transport network, so you only need a normal 3.20zł fare ticket.

Nikiszowiec WHAT TO SEE Begin your adventure by hopping on a bus to the Wilson Shaft Gallery. From the Wilson Gallery it is a short eight minute walk (or one bus stop) down ul. Szopienicka into Nikiszowiec proper; you’ll know it by its uniquely uniform architecture, gruesome water tower, leering smokestacks and the church spire marking its centre. Make a left onto ul. Zofii Nałkowskiej (towards Eurohotel and the ice rink complex) and then your first right to officially enter the district on ul. Rymarska and you’ll pass the Tourist Information Office inside the Industrial Ethnography Museum. Special mention goes to ul. Czechowa which can be described as the artistic heart of Nikiszowiec, with galleries and workshops found here. WILSON SHAFT GALLERY This seemingly obscure and certainly under appreciated modern art gallery is arguably Katowice’s best art space and one of the primary highlights of a trip to Nikiszowiec. Located in the pithead building and bathhouse of the old Wilson shaft of the Wieczorek mine, the buildings now occupied by the gallery date back to 1918, and were designed by the same Zillman brother tandem behind the Nikiszowiec housing district. The dilapidated mineshaft, where excavations began back in 1864, can still be seen in glorious ruin behind the gallery buildings, having ceased operation in 1997. The area is now filled with exhibition and office space, and brightly-painted outdoor sculptures in sharp contrast to the industrial surroundings, as well as a muraled entrance wall full of colourful pop culture icons (making it hard to miss). Not only is admission free but the mini-buffet is a great option for breakfast or lunch (Mon - Fri 08:00 - 16:00).QZ‑14, ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20, www.szybwilson. org. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Courtesy of Katowice City Council

UNIQUE COAL JEWELLERY

www.pl.icoalyou.com kontakt@icoalyou.com +48 797 655 744

BARBÓRKA December 4th in Poland sees the observance of Barbórka, the local name for the feast day of St. Barbara, patron saint of miners. Despite its dangers, or perhaps because of them, the mining profession has always held a high degree of prestige in Poland. The great value placed on coal during communism dictated that mining was one of the most wellrespected occupations a Pole could have, along with which came special benefits and privileges. It is from this perspective that Barbórka is still carried on with gusto in Silesia today. Combining ancient tradition, pageantry, fraternity and fun, Barbórka is undoubtedly one of Poland’s strangest and unique ‘holidays’. Nikiszowiec is the most ideal place to appreciate Barbórka, where each year it’s celebration is an all out community event. Traditional Barbórka festivities kick off early in the morning when the residents of the district are awoken to pounding drums and honking horns of mining marching bands as ranks of miners in full regalia wind through the neighbourhood. At 9:30 a huge mass is held in St. Anne’s Church, followed by special concerts on the adjacent square. Festivities and performances continue throughout the afternoon, culminating in a fireworks show after dark. Probably the best day of the year to be in this unique mining district, don’t miss it if you’re in the area. katowice.inyourpocket.com 37

Nikiszowiec EAT & DRINK Once a food desert, when we first wrote about Nikiszowiec we encouraged visitors to pack a lunch, but today there are several quality places for drinking and dining in the neighbourhood. CAFE BYFYJ This is the heart and soul of Nikiszowiec. Grab a table inside in the bright white and soft light interior, or outside on their breezy bricked terrace (with all year gas heater should it get cold!). The friendly waitstaff will take it from there and catch you up on all the savoury and sweet options from cakes, tarts, pizzas and daily lunch specials. Don’t overlook the beverages because they serve up some of the best coffee drinks around, not to mention organic juices, cool-colas, beers (low alko % as well) and prosecco. Above all, come to Byfyj for the ambience and start to get a knack for what Niki’s really all about. Opening hours subject to change.QY‑16, ul. Krawczyka 5 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 696 73 08 01, www.piekarniamichalski.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon. TUo6W ŚLĄSKA PROHIBICJA Up until recently in Nikiszowiec, there were only cafes to eat in should you get peckish, but that has now changed with the opening of Śląska Prohibicja (Silesian Prohibition). Going with a modern take on 1920s decor, this is a building with a whopping 700m2 of space across 5 rooms (one main area and 4 smaller rooms that accommodate 50-60 people); not just for restaurant use, but also for events such as weddings, and even musical performances (which take place Fri/Sat evenings and Sun lunchtime). Fans of gastronomy will be eager to know that the head chef is Magdalena Nowaczewska, winner of the 5th edition of Poland’s Master Chef, and it shows, for the food (taking inspiration from international and regional cuisine) is delightfully prepared, with the taste matching the appearance. A fantastic addition to this charming part of Katowice.QY‑16, ul. Krawczyka 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 723 28 99, www. slaskaprohibicja.pl. Open 12:00 – 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 – 24:00. €€€. TUEW ZILLMANN TEA & COFFEE Named after the designers of the neighbourhood, this sophisticated cafe and drink bar brings a bit of class to Niki’s central square. The exposed brick and dark wood interiors correspond swimmingly to the hushed and jazzy atmosphere that almost demands liquid companionship. Whether you stop in for a morning cappuccino and cake, ice-cream or you slip in to sip a local microbrew in the afternoon, Zillmann will accommodate you quite nicely. Classy glass and shiny brass for the working class.QY‑16, Pl. Wyzwolenia 3/1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 708 25 74. Open 11:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. T6W 38 Katowice In Your Pocket

Nikiszowiec

Courtesy of Katowice City Council

CENTRUM ZIMBARDO Centrum Zimbardo is one part of Stowarzyszenie Fabryka Inicjatyw Lokalnych (FIL Association), a non-profit organisation founded in 2009 by a group of local friends who wanted to improve things in Nikiszowiec, all borne of a passion for their district, Silesian culture, history and traditions. Not only does the association organise local events, such as concerts and markets, educational programmes and conferences, but Centrum Zimbardo provide guided tours for people wishing to visit the area, going into detail about the revitalisation of the area and the socio-economic history. Tours cost 170zł up to groups of 25 and it is necessary to book in advance by phone or via email - fil@ fil.org.pl. Zimbardo is a great local project which connects you to the area by means of 1st hand accounts of life in Niki - it’s genuine and should be supported. Check their site for any updated opening hours.QY‑16, Plac Wyzwolenia 5, tel. (+48) 664 22 20 44, www.centrumzimbardo.pl. Open 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. INDUSTRIAL ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM This branch of the Katowice Historical Museum is unique in its emphasis on ethnography and folk culture, approaching the topic from an urban, rather than rural, perspective. A collection of artefacts and cultural assets tells the everyday stories of Upper Silesia’s working class (primarily miners) from the period of early industrial development (mid-19th century) to the 1960s. They have three permanent exhibitions on display. The first is devoted to the Janowska Group - a collection of Nikiszowiec miners including Teofil Ociepka, Paweł Wróbel, Erwin Sówka and Ewald Gawlik who gained renown for their ‘naive’ painting. Another exhibit is a replication of a typical Nikiszowiec worker’s house. The final exhibit goes even deeper and delves into the various laundering techniques used in the district’s heyday (it’s more interesting than it sounds and has English titles). The helpful Nikiszowiec Information Centre (open 10:00 17:30; Sat 11:00 - 14:30; closed Mon, Sun) is also in the same building, where you can get advice, pick up maps of the district and free audioguides in English, Polish or German.QY‑16, ul. Rymarska 4 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 353 95 59, www. mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł.Tue free. U

Bobolice Castle in The Kraków-Częstochowa Upland | © J. Krawczyk

The Kraków-Częstochowa Upland The land of cliffs, castles and picturesque towns The romantic scenery of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland dazzles with its landscapes and natural richness. This is a paradise for lovers of long walks, rock climbing and cave exploration. It’s here that cyclists too can indulge in their passions, surrounded by medieval castles and strongholds built on hilltops on the Trail of the Eagles’ Nests. Thanks to improving infrastructure and the increasing no. of attractions, this is a perfect place for tourists seeking an active break away. The most interesting and picturesque Eagles’ Nests within the Silesian province are the castles in Smoleń, Podzamcze, Morsko and Bobolice, Mirów and Olsztyn. 40 Katowice In Your Pocket

The Kraków-Częstochowa Upland

Ogrodzieniec Castle

OGRODZIENIEC CASTLE Just 50km and an hour’s drive from Katowice, the ruins of Ogrodzieniec Castle (actually located 2km east of Ogrodzieniec in Podzamcze) are the best maintained of all the Eagles’ Nests, offering some of the most stunning views in the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland, perched atop the highest point in the chain at 504m. Today it’s a picturesque ruin, recently stabilised so that visitors can follow the oneway walking trail, see parts previously closed off to tourists and rebuilt wooden cloisters. Night time too holds a charming appeal as newly installed lighting illuminates the castle, providing an atmospheric, mysterious aura, where the ghosts and ghouls of the past can be seen, familiarising visitors with the legends and tails of the past. During the summer season the place is alive with events from knight tournaments, medieval folk dancing and night tours of the castle. Qul. Zamkowa, Podzamcze, tel. (+48) 32 673 22 85, www.zamek-ogrodzieniec.pl.

SILESIAN TOURIST ORGANISATION So you’ve arrived in Katowice, had a look around in the city and surrounding area and thought to yourself ‘Wow, there’s more to this place than I first thought!’, and we would wholeheartedly agree. To this end, we encourage you to visit other areas of interest across the greater Silesian region and beyond - you will not be disappointed. There’s a lot to see, and Katowice is a great starting point for all trips. Whatever your interests, the Silesian Tourist Organisation (Śląska Organizacja Turystyczna) is a fantastic resource that can help you with your planning! Happily visit their site www.silesia.travel for in-depth information, or visit the tourist information office in Katowice’s main square for a wealth of useful resources and guides to the gems of Silesia. Starting in the city in places like Nikiszowiec (p.31) and the Silesian Museum (p.29), and working outward, you can visit 42 sites connected to the Industrial Monuments

ŻARKI This picturesque little town is in the heart of the KrakówCzęstochowa Upland (29km from Częstochowa). Places like Żarki show a side to Poland you may have never experienced - small town life. Other than walking around to take in the atmosphere, the town’s interactive Old Mill Museum of Old Crafts provides an insight to the trades of days gone by. If history is your thing, one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in the Jura Upland is in town; the Jewish community once comprised 60% of the population, their history dating back to the 16th century. For that local feel, the old town market held every Saturday next to historical barns sees 500 sellers plying their trade with local goods. You may even see a folk music performance. For children, the town’s Hokus Pokuss sweet manufacturer shows how everyone’s favourite treats are made. It’s a small town, but it’s certain to provide an insightful visit.QStary Rynek, Żarki.

Old Mill Museum in Żarki, in the heart of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland © J. Krawczyk

Route, from factories to mines found on the UNESCO World Heritage List! If going back in time is your thing, follow the trail of wooden architecture too! Going further, you will find attractions connected to nature (and history!), in the form of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland, a 160km span along the border of the Małopolska and Silesia provinces leading north-west from Kraków to Częstochowa, where you can also follow the trail of the Eagles’ Nests - a fascinating walking route following 16 structures (mostly castles) built during the reign of Casimir III the Great on the then border of Poland, protecting it from invaders. The outdoor attractions don’t end there, as you visit the crowning glory in the form of the Beskid mountain range, great for hillwalkers, cyclists and skiers alike! For foodies, or for anyone travelling in Silesia for any of their chosen trips, it’s also advisable to try the local cuisine, and the Sileasian Tourist Organisation has this very need in mind with their ‘Silesian Tastes’ culinary trail.

Silesian Region Tourist Information Site: www.slaskie.travel ‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail: www.slaskiesmaki.pl Beskid Mountains and Silesian Cieszyn: www.beskidy.travel The Eagles’ Nests Trail: www.orlegniazda.pl The Industrial Monuments Trail: www.zabytkitechniki.pl Kraków-Częstochowa Upland Site: www.jura.travel katowice.inyourpocket.com 41

Auschwitz

The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate. | © noel moore, Dollar Photo Club

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness.

presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit.

Visitors to Kraków and Katowice are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.

VISITING AUSCHWITZ

The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is 42 Katowice In Your Pocket

If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: visit as part of a group organised by a tourist agency, visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or visit independently for free without a guide. Unfortunately, a new online reservation system now makes the latter two options much more difficult than in the past. All visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of tickets online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it. If you are determined to visit independently you need to know that during peak season (March - October) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get there before

Auschwitz 10:00 or after 16:00 - during which times it is possible to visit for free on your own (last entrance to Auschwitz I is 1.5hrs before closing). Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate (check the schedule online), but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish; tours in other languages can also be arranged in advance through the website. Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds and unclear signage. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, head for queue in front of the desk marked ‘Individual Guests;’ if it’s peak season (March 1 - Oct. 31) and you don’t already have tickets (not recommended), you must first visit the white Info box located outside the entrance. Once you’re through the queues, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film is not guaranteed however, so in some cases your tour will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If you intend to explore Auschwitz without a guide, we recommend that you give yourself several hours to explore both camps, and that you pick up the official guidebook (10zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau. Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. Note that only small bags are allowed into Auschwitz I; if your bag exceeds the very small dimensions of 30x20x10cm, you’ll have to leave it somewhere; lockers are provided for this purpose.Qul. Stanisławy Leszczyńskiej 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz. org. Both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau open 07:30 - 16:30, in December 07:30 - 15:30, in January 07:30 - 16:30, in February 7:30 - 17:30. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Auschwitz is not recommended for those under 14 years old. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps, plus the film, costs 50/45zł. Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free, but the film costs 6/3zł.

GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

Auschwitz II - Birkenau Photo by Alana de Haan; alanacdehaan.com

The town of Oświęcim lies 33km south-east of Katowice and there are several ways of getting there, though the easiest may be just signing on for an organised tour through a local company like Silesia Trip (p.52). Direct trains go every couple of hours from Katowice central station and there are numerous bus options both big and small. Buses leave frequently from Katowice’s main bus station (M-11, ul. Skargi 1) every day starting at 08:00. A one way ticket costs about 9-20zł with the journey taking 60-70mins (prices and times depend on the company). The buses make several stops along the way, and most weekday will drop you off at the Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22), which is 1.5km away. From there hop on local buses 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 to make the short trip to the museum; you can purchase the 2.70zł fare from one of the nearby kiosks. Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau are located 3km apart (with the train station strategically between them). Between Nov-Feb there is a free museum bus which shuttles visitors between the two parts of the camp every 30 minutes during weekdays from 10:00 (every 10 mins at weekends), with the last bus being at 16:10 (check upon arrival for schedule). Alternatively, catch a cab for a rich 15zł. To get back to Katowice, you need to catch a bus from the Oświęcim train station. Again, local buses 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 make the trip from Auschwitz I to the train station for 2.70zł. Buses from there back to Katowice are frequent, but the last one leaves at 17:27 Mon-Sun.

BOOK A TOUR katowice.inyourpocket.com 43

Cafés

Enjoy your apple pie at Kawiarnia Fotograficzna

CUKIERNIA EUROPEJSKA Going strong since 1974 in its original location on ul. 1 Maja 39, Cukiernia Europejska has branched out across the city, and its newest location is right in the centre just off the rynek. With a modern but pleasantly atmospheric interior, this confectionery shop is heavily focused on sweet goods, and quite right too, for they have a long tradition of baking these goods. You can try anything from cakes, desserts, biscuits, ice-cream, and if you’re trying to limit your sugar intake, you can stick to baked goods and sandwiches. As the owners say themselves, this is a great place to meet in the morning for some top quality tea/coffee and a piece of cake with friends, all at very reasonable prices. We agree. QR‑12, ul. św. Jana 8, tel. (+48) 787 37 63 45. Open 06:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 6W NEW EKSPEDYCJA COFFEEHOUSE One of Katowice’s newest cafes is a little bit different than the rest! Ekspedycja (Expedition) is themed on historical exploration, going back to the days of venturing out to discover new worlds, new cultures. And the theme is fitting, for the owner, an Italian living in the area, is passionate about the history of tea! Go on, ask him anything about tea, he’ll know the answer and more! To go on a journey of exploration, first, you must make the short journey down ul. Teatralna, just off the Rynek, and into Ekspedycja. Inside you will find the interior filled with old maps, paintings and paraphernalia connected with exploration and tea. More than a place to get some tea and coffee (which they have a fine selection of), this is a place to chill out with some board games and books, all provided, in various languages, encouraging you to engage and to learn. What a great idea!QN‑12, ul. Teatralna 12. Open 10:00 - 19:30, Fri 10:00 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:30. W 44 Katowice In Your Pocket

NEW KAWIARNIA FOTOGRAFICZNA Wood. and black walls. That’s what first hits you when you first walk in - but it’s OK, we get it, the photography theme is strong here, and the dark room element is understandable. Sparse interiors with photography paraphernalia everywhere, and old nostalgic photos lying around, really set the tone for this cafe - we felt right at home! But right, to business, what else do they have to offer? Well, there’s a menu full of classic and alternative (their words) teas, which will keep fancy pants drinkers to more traditional sippers appeased, and a variety of coffees to match, however, the sweet and savoury snacks deserve special mention, especially the ‘pampuchy’, a mix between a roll and a doughnut. It’s worth noting that until midDecember, every Mon evening they organise a folk music event where you can learn to sing and dance (translations provided!), with no reservation or fee required! A great idea for a cafe, so snap up the chance to go there. Sorry for the pun...QN‑12, ul. Teatralna 4, tel. (+48) 609 55 44 49. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon. TE6W KAWOSZ A fairly new addition to Katowice’s cafe scene located just off Plac Wolności. Entering is quite a sight in itself, the first impression leaves you saying ‘ooh’ - no, you haven’t walked in on the aftermath of a Hogwarts’ lesson, and yes, those are floor lamps attached to the ceiling. The interior is quite sparse, but what little they have is quite funkily placed reproductions of famous paintings with covered faces, all in the aim of ‘upcycling’, or creative reuse. They have short ‘to the point’ lunch and breakfast menus, and cakes, which are yummy and fill a tasty spot. As for the coffee, the

Cafés main selling point, you have high quality Arabica on offer. Each table has power sockets for all you laptop and phone people. Sparse but tasty best sums up Kawosz.QM‑12, ul. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 501 64 58 02. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. T6W LA PETITE BRETAGNE Ahhh... crepes...yum. Just off the main square, and past the theatre, find La Petite Bretagne, whose owner, Barbara Kruk, is the most passionate person we have encountered to make the beautiful treats. Following visits to France, she was hooked by French culture, and more specifically, by a street vendor who she witnessed, slowly, caringly, making the best crepes she had ever tasted. And that’s the history behind the concept to bring a French crêperie to Katowice. Loved by French Erasmus students and locals alike, the tastes are authentic due to the type of French flour used (Polish flour just doesn’t cut the mustard, so we’ve been told!). And we agree - we had a savoury and dessert crepes and were delighted by the tastes. The interior of the cafe, the accompanying music and the friendly staff all do their bit to make this a special little place. QN‑12, ul. Teatralna 10, tel. (+48) 518 30 83 06, www.lapetitebretagne. eatbu.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00. 6 LEGAL CAKES Found right across from the main train station entrance, Legal Cakes is a sensible option to kill some time in if you’re waiting for a train, or indeed, if you’ve just arrived and are feeling peckish. Just a disclaimer, the reference to ‘legal’ has nothing to do with an overhaul to any recent prohibition style restrictions on cakes and sweets in Poland but rather the act of feeling guilt-free when eating in ‘Legal Cakes’, a place which prides itself on gluten and sugar-free products! Legal Cakes has done well in Gdańsk, Warsaw, Wrocław, and has branched out further, recently in Łódź and now Katowice. It’s a perfect place for the health conscious and those curious to see if the lack of unhealthy ingredients takes away the ‘yum’ factor from baked goods. Our verdict? Finally, that sweet tooth need not be tamed with sugar!QM‑12, ul. Młyńska 19, tel. (+48) 509 30 60 93, www.legalcakes.com. Open 08:30 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. T6W MONOPOL Inside the hotel of the same name the Monopol’s in-house café bar offers decent coffee and plenty of class with an interior that recalls Katowice’s golden age. Here it’s all fresh cut flowers, marble surfaces and sepia images of the city in its industrial heyday. Floor-to-ceiling windows encourage hurrying passersby to gaze in with envy.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 09:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. U6W MOODRO BISTRO & CAFE The Silesian Museum has a lot to offer both tourists and locals alike and that includes its gastronomic offers. If you make the entire journey through the subterranean exhibits and ante-chambers of the Museum, you’ll be delighted to

resurface right next to this bright bistro and cafe. You’ll no doubt run into locals already sipping lattes and nibbling light lunches. They may have skipped the museum and headed straight to grab one of the window front tables with a panoramic view of downtown Katowice. Make sure to ask about their breakfast special if you’re an early riser. Also enjoy their healthy bowls and smoothies (vegetarian and vegan dishes also available).QP‑10, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1 (Silesian Museum), tel. (+48) 795 55 92 99, www.moodro.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. TUW SYNERGIA. DOBRE MIEJSCE The slow coffee movement rolls its way into Silesia and lands in one of the most stylish cafes this town has ever seen. You know they mean business when the first thing you see when you walk in is an array of high and lowtech new school coffee gadgets in rustic wooden crates. The aroma of fresh coffee will lure you further into the elegant environs. Sink into a couch and choose from Chemex, Drip, Aeropress, Syphon or Espresso press with your choice of “single country of origin” bean. Grab a brownie, pastry, quiche or even order one of their tempting lunch specials (of course vegan and gluten free options available). You lucky devils are now spoilt for choice with their 2nd cafe (same name) on ul. Opolska 18.QM‑12, ul. Andrzeja 29/2, tel. (+48) 502 93 02 53. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 20:00. T6W katowice.inyourpocket.com 45

Traditional Silesian Dishes

Rolada Śląska | Courtesy of Restauracja Wiejska Chatka

A blue-collar region of miners and miners’ daughters, few places are as well suited to the nation’s traditional peasant fare of potatoes, cutlets and cabbage as Silesia. But that’s not the end of it, for as good as the traditional style of Silesian food is, in places like Chata z Zalipia (p.63), Patio (p.56) and Wiejska Chatka (p.64), to modern takes on old favourites are popping up too, and nowhere else is this more true than in ISTO (p.65), with the chef’s own artistic style showing through with each unique dish. So what have the locals contributed to national cuisine?

ROLADA ŚLĄSKA

As for main courses, your pervasive regional entrée for the brave has to be Silesian beef rolades, or ‘rolada śląska’ – a rolled beef patty filled with onions, bacon and pickles. This surprisingly tasty dish with some kluski and red cabbage or fried sauerkraut on the side is as Silesian as it gets.

KLUSKI ŚLĄSKIE

Silesian noodles, known locally as ‘kluski śląskie’, are at the top of any Silesian culinary itinerary. Essentially a pierogi (dumping) with no filling, these pillowy potato flour doughballs are served as a side dish almost everywhere, often with mushroom gravy or fried fat and bacon bits on top. With a chewy texture and typically bland flavour, kluski literally stick to your ribs and set like cement in your stomach.

Karminadle

KARMINADLE

Kluski Śląskie with meat and veg!

46 Katowice In Your Pocket

Photo: Adobe Stock

What are essentially pork meatballs, the national version being called ‘kotlety mielone’, the Silesian version karminadle were in the past only served during the holidays, a bit of a treat, and were often made from rabbit meat, due to the popularity of rabbit rearing. Today, although often made from pork, you can also eat pork-beef mixes, either hot served with potatoe purée, or cold, with bread.

Traditional Silesian Dishes

Silesian Food is certainly stocky! Courtesy of Restauracja Wiejska Chatka

CIAPKAPUSTA

We did say Silesian food was heavy on meat and vegetables and ciapkapusta is the ultimate fusion! Potatoe purée is simply mixed with sauerkraut (kapusta kiszona), bacon, sausage and onion. As simple as that. Although it can be a main meal in itself, it’s often served as a side to a main meat dish (usually ribs).

Krupnioki

KRUPNIOKI ŚLĄSKIE

This blood sausage consists of pig’s blood, pork offal (85%) and buckwheat (15%). You may already know the national variety ‘kaszanka’, with both being almost identical, only differing by name. Krupnioki have been associated with Silesia since the 17th century as they provided miners with a quick, highly calorific source of food to give them enough energy to carry out their hard work. They are more associated today with traditional dishes served during the holidays.

ŻUR ŚLĄSKI

A traditional Slavic sourdough soup, a popular regional phenomena with various methods of serving; some regions of Poland serve it over boiled potatoes in a bread bowl, or even with a boiled egg, whereas in Silesia, Żur Śląski is poured over mashed potatoes! WHERE TO EAT MORE? For hardcore foodies, or for anyone travelling in Silesia, it’s advisable to try as much of the local cuisine as possible - we’ve only given you a snippet of what’s on offer. To help you out on your food travels, the Silesian Tourist Organisation has this very need in mind with their ‘Silesian Tastes’ culinary trail. It’s definitely worth checking out at www.slaskiesmaki.pl.

Authentic cuisine I S TO R E S TAU R A N T Aleja Roździeńskiego 1A Katowice

www.isto.com.pl /restauracjaisto restauracjaisto

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Restaurants

The traditional ‘kotlet schabowy’ (pork cutlet) with fried cabbage from Wiejska Chatka (p.64).

Silesia is known to many as a sprawling post-industrial metropolis that is more akin to a culinary wasteland than a growing centre of world-class cuisine for cunning connoisseurs. The last few years have brought drastic changes to the once dreary dining scene and the service industry can now join the esteemed ranks of the coal and steel industries in the area. Many culinary trends have taken hold and ethnic cuisine of all shapes and sizes are vying for your attention and appealing to your appetite. Don’t overlook the local fare either as there is a veritable renaissance happening in Silesian cuisine as well as a plethora of Polish places. The prices we list here in each handpicked recommendation reflect the cheapest and most precious main dishes on the menu. Tipping at least 10% for table service is customary, though it may not always be deserved. Smacznego! FINE DINING Exclusive restaurants in Katowice come in a range of forms, from serving a mix of interntional and local cuisine, with varied interior decors and food on offer; all a treat to test out. Leading the way in Kato’s gastronomical revolution, we have a few contenders: If it’s post-industrial decor and good meat you’re after, check out Sztolnia (p.51). If you like to eat high up and closer to the sun, try Restauracja Sunlight (p.51) with its seasonal menu. Tatiana (p.59) just up from the Rynek serves a mix of European and Slavic dishes in a very pleasant and elegant setting. INTERNATIONAL The gastro revolution is not limited to traditional or local cuisine, as with any destination, choice is the key, and we certainly have that with a host of international eateries in 48 Katowice In Your Pocket

Kato. If you’re searching for Indian food ranging from mild to spicy, try out Buddha (p.53)! New kid on block Novo (p.60) has a rather impressive looking stone baked oven which churns out all your favourite delights with authentic taste. Hana Sushi (p.49) offers, well, no prizes for guessing what, but the location in a former brick building once home to a swimming pool looks great and the food on offer is as you’d expect, really good. FAST CASUAL If it’s something relatively quick you want and at decent prices without scimping back on quality, Kato has a lot to offer in this regard, and some of our noted adventures have highglighted the following: making the leap from food truck to having a real home, Nasze Bao (p.50) serves up some great Asian street food. Zdrowa Krowa (p.52) is hot on the heels of the good burger trend in Poland and Zielony Most (p.54) provides a good vegetarian option. If you’re craving some good seafood, specifically swimming crustaceans, Shrimp House (p.61) finally offers up good quality shrimp, which has been lacking in Silesia until now! FAMILY DINING Family options too are easily found in Kato, serving food from more adventurous meals for adults and classics for kids. First to mention following its recent renovation is Patio (p.56), which does just that with various meats dishes, pizzas, pastas etc. Steakhouse Da Da (p.58) is straight to the point, offering fine steak cuts from around the world, all served by friendly staff. For an authentic Polish feel, Chata z Zalipia (p.63) serves up traditional Polish food in a design reminiscent of a cottage interior, one for all to enjoy.

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY 6 Animal friendly

o Year-Round Garden

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

W Wi-fi connection

X Smoking room available

AMERICAN CITY ROCK If you crossed Hard Rock Cafe with a classic American diner in a Polish laboratory, you might end with something like City Rock, where motorbikes, guitars, 50s pinups, Elvis and even a full-sized Formula 1 car are attached to the creamy chocolate coloured walls. The pre-pubescent boy in you will love it and that’s before the team of local beauties appears to present you with the easy English menu of Tex-Mex, fried food, ice cream sundaes, milkshakes, wood-oven pizza, burgers and obligatory Polish dishes. Incredibly popular and kind of great for all the wrong reasons. Each Friday an illusionist performs tricks 20:00-22:00.QN‑10, ul. Chorzowska 9B, tel. (+48) 32 201 05 05, www.cityrock.pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. €€€. TUW

„The Best Sushi Restaurant in Poland“ according to Rzeczpospolita (One of Poland‘s leading newspapers)

A large selection of hot dishes Home and office delivery

ASIAN HANA SUSHI A former swimming pool attached to one of Katowice’s closed coal mines, this lovely brick building has been refitted to house the city’s best sushi house and Japanese restaurant. With the added advantage of being at the Silesia City Centre, yet sovereign over its own independent space and atmosphere (they even have their own separate parking next door), Hana Sushi boasts a rich menu rife with Japanese delicacies and hot dishes for those still suspicious of the sushi fad. If you don’t feel like making your way to Silesia’s biggest shopping mall. QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 109, tel. (+48) 32 605 09 77, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€€€. TUW HURRY CURRY Bringing some heat to the street and some spice to Katovice, this hot spot is turning heads and filling stomachs. Started by a couple of travellers with the simple idea of offering a selection of curries from all over the world served up quick and sold for cheap. The results are utterly delicious and borderline revolutionary for the city’s budding ethnic restaurant scene. With a limited but diverse menu, you’ll find something new just for you. The design is cosy yet cool and the service is quick so even if you’re in a hurry you can make time for their curry. Top marks all around. Also at at ul. Panewnicka 25A and ul. Armii Krajowej 81.QO‑12, ul. Św. Stanisława 1, tel. (+48) 511 43 36 63, www.hurrycurry. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 21:00. €€. 6W

Katowice – Silesia City Center Ul. Chorzowska 109 tel. + 48 32 60-50-977 tel. + 48 32 60-50-975 Facebook/ Hana Sushi Katowice

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Restaurants Stanisława 1 Armii Krajowej 81 Panewnicka 25 A tel. 511 433 663 • www.hurrycurry.pl

Curries from all over the world

KYOTO SUSHI Located up the first set of escalators inside the swanky Altus Centre, this large, excellent Japanese restaurant comes with lots of wood trimmings, a tinkling tranquility pond in the centre complete with flowing fountain. Choose from Nigiri, Maki, Sashimi and classic Japanese dishes, washing it down with a Japanese wine, beer, whisky or a carafe of sake.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 603 01 66, www.kyotosushi.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. €€€. TUW LITTLE HANOI...AND MORE! Set on a pedestrianised street in the heart of Katowice within walking distance of the train station and Katowice’s ‘Market Square,’ Little Hanoi is a welcome departure from eating dumplings, or even the low-standard Chinese restaurants found across the country. Granted, the minimal décor containing the obligatory lanterns, decent Vietnamese dishes and friendly staff are not unique in Poland, but as far as eating options in central Katowice go, this is a definite step in the right direction. The spicy soup was a solid beginning, the ribs were delicious and their signature Duck “Little Hanoi” style was to-die-for! Wash it down with a Lime Nuoc Chanh and like us you’ll be fortified for the evening ahead with hardly a dent made in your wallet.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 4, tel. (+48) 886 62 33 88, www.littlehanoi.eu. Open 13:30 - 23:00, Sun 13:30 - 21:00. €€. UW

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer 50 Katowice In Your Pocket

NASZE BAO We love it when our favourite food trucks go all brick and mortar. This is the case with Kato’s newest Asian fast food sensation. After just one bite of their savoury and spicy calamari bun (aka bao for those in the know) we were hooked. While they certainly upgraded their digs, this basement nook isn’t exactly a full blown restaurant. The open kitchen is bigger than the 3-4 improvised tables and stools at the bar. But since the menu still consists of mostly Asian street food, the buns are built for the road. But when the weather turns we will happily huddle in the corner and devour another one of their fluffy boa, or perhaps scarf down a bowl of Pho Bo. If you want to stick to the ole food truck option, no more, dear friends, for Nasze Bao’s former garden location has gone all brick and mortar on ul. Panewnicka 77 too.QN‑13, ul. Sienkiewicza 27, tel. (+48) 600 37 76 05, www.naszebao.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. €€. 6W

CZECH HOSPODA History and geography have preordained close ties between Silesia and the Czech Republic. While ‘close’ doesn’t always mean friendly, this hopping Hospoda could downright double as the Czech Embassy for all the love it shows to their southern neighbours. Of course the first test of a true Czech pub is its beer selection. Hospoda passes with flying colours with delicious Bohemian brews

Restaurants like Kozel Dark, Vit and Pilsner on tap plus at least 25 other bottles on deck (Gambrinus, Radegast, Budvar and a boatload more). If you’re wondering about the grub, czech out their classic fried cheese, garlic soup and goulash with langosz. If you’ve never been to Prague, just throw on a Walkman with some Jaromir Nohavica, curl up in a corner with a dark Kozel or two and prepare to be telePortered. QL‑11, ul. Gliwicka 6/1 (entrance from ul. Sobieskiego), tel. (+48) 793 89 65 30, www.hospoda.pl. Open 14:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. €. XIW

FRENCH C’EST SI BON Certainly one of Katowice’s finer restaurants, the service may not be as cheerful as the interior full of lavender plants, lilac table clothes, candleholders and sun icons, but the food is top-notch, as testified by the long list of companies C’est Si Bon does regular catering for. The menu is in Polish, French and English, and still full of rich, delicious dishes like the onion soup with gruyere cheese for just 10zł. Bon Apetite!QM‑13, ul. Ligonia 4, tel. (+48) 32 781 68 48, www.cestsibon.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. €€. U6W

FUSION RESTAURACJA SUNLIGHT Located on the ground floor of the Angelo Hotel, it’s worth getting a room upstairs just for convenient access to this exquisite restaurant. A perfect cure for seasonal Silesian depression, Sunlight justifies its slightly hokey name with a modern, spirit-lifting interior of warm colours and wall to floor length windows. No effort is spared with the food, including regularly reinvented seasonal menus in addition to the regular card full of locally-inspired fusion dishes. The menu even includes accompanying wine recommendations. Meal deals are on offer from 50-100zł including an appetiser, main, dessert and a glass of wine. They also recently opened Steak Corner by Jazz Bar where you can order mouth watering steaks and burgers.QM‑11, ul. Sokolska 24 (Vienna House Easy Angelo Katowice), tel. (+48) 32 783 81 56, www.viennahouse.com. Open 17:00 - 22:00. €€€. TUW SZTOLNIA. CHLEB. MIĘSO. WINO Someone forgot to tell Poland that restaurants near Malls are supposed to be bland, corporate run, flair-wearing affairs only. Sztolnia not only blows that notion out of the water, but it’s one of the best restaurants in town. One look at their open concept industrial-yet-rustic, dining room and you’ll begin to see why. After a very recent renovation, the dining area has been expanded, and the restaurant now has a confectionery section, winery, and banquet hall all held in a huge 1000m2 space! Once you’ve settled and had a look at the laid back and eclectic menu filled with fusion treats and grilled aged meats, they’ll have won you over. And once you’re served your meal, they’ll have fully sealed the deal. Hand to heart, our perfect Angus beef katowice.inyourpocket.com 51

Restaurants BURGERS

steak, grilled potatoes, selection of green salad leaves, cheese sauce was impeccable. They have a great daily breakfast promo - your choice of coffee or tea for 1 zł with any breakfast order between 11:00 -12:00. They also serve a 3-course lunch Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for 33zł. Silesia City Center just got a whole lot closer.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 109 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 506 78 87 75, www. sztolnia.katowice.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. TUW

GERMAN

MAD MICK The requisite ‘Hipster Burger Bar and Bistro’ has firmly planted its flag in Silesian soil. Mad Mick serve up thick slabs of juicy steaks, mouth watering burgers and tortillas day and night. With a vast array of Czech microbrews to chase down your chow of choice, settle into a comfy seat before you meet your meat. Besides the full menu of carnivorous treats, Mick also offers up salads, snacks, baguettes and sandwiches.QO‑12, ul. Warszawska 13, tel. (+48) 535 46 68 66, www. madmick.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. 6W PASIBUS Located on the top floor of Galeria Katowicka near the food court, the entrance to Pasibus moulds seamlessly between shopping centre and restaurant. Turn around from the shoppers and you could easily you’re in a shopping centre. The food is great, ranging in price from 9-25zł, and it hits the tasty spot. Various meat and veg burger options are available, accompanied a wow collection of sauces - red curry paste, chilli, and habanero, and other unconventional ingredients such as sun-dried tomato and cranberry paste, plumginger chutney. 2nd location found in ‘Stary Dworzec’ on ul. Dworcowa 4.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 30 (Galeria Katowicka), tel. (+48) 511 41 56 50, www.pasibus.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. €. W ZDROWA KROWA Literally translated as “healthy cow” this Gliwice burger bistro is now in Katowice. Their mission seems to be to re-brand burgers as a legitimately healthy option touting the quality of their locally sourced ingredients and abundance of veggies tossed between their freshly baked buns. With a truly expansive menu of over a dozen different specialty beef burgers and a handful of chicken, shrimp, and veggie/vegan options, choosing the right sandwich is a truly daunting task. QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 33, tel. (+48) 730 10 15 20, www.zdrowakrowa.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TU6W 52 Katowice In Your Pocket

WUNDERBAR A pleasing bar-restaurant kitted out with pots, pans, chiming clocks and all manner of assorted country trumpery. The menu here is pretty much as you expect from a Bavarian themed eatery with a bit of a Polish twist. Try the Krupnik soup with goose stomachs or the half duck baked with apples. If you really mean business then try the Baked Pork Knuckle on for size. Wash it all down with some tried and true German brew - wheat Weihenstephan or Weihenstephan Pils.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 2, tel. (+48) 32 781 76 90, www.wunderbar.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. €€. TW

GREEK SOUVLAKI BAR Here’s a first for Katowice (it’s becoming a trend in the city, huh?) - a Greek food place! If you’ve ever been to Greece and miss the food (or haven’t, and want to test the food culture), here’s a great place to start, without actually going to the country! It’s not just about the food, it’s the approach - you don’t have to go to the best restaurant to eat good food, and in Greece, a popular option is just to eat some Souvlaki from a street food bar. I’ll be honest, I love this style. Souvlaki Bar is a small eatery, and feels like an Athens quick food bar. The owners live in Athens and very much want to bring this style to Katowice, and why the hell not? It’s awesome. Try horiatiki, tzatziki, and anything with grilled halloumi!QO‑20, ul. Francuska 2, tel. (+48) 533 33 83 89. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Fri 14:00 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon. €€. T6W

HUNGARIAN ZAKLĘTY CZARDASZ Certainly one of Katowice’s finest and most unheralded restaurants, this aromatic Hungarian effort serves excellent ethnic cuisine in elegant surroundings with wicker lampshades, latticework and vines. The enticing menu offers a dozen ways to enjoy their delicious goulash (trust us, you’ll be licking the cutlery), plus stuffed peppers, potato pancakes, pork loin, fish and more - all complemented ideally by Hungarian wines and tokajs from their adjoining shop. Portions are positively huge, with food practically spilling over the edges of the plate, and it’s worth noting that you can ask for many of them

Restaurants

Chorzowska 109, Katowice, +48 506 788 775

in a smaller amount. A cellar wine bar only makes us more enthusiastic to recommend this place than ever before. QM‑13, ul. Kopernika 9, tel. (+48) 32 257 01 32, www. czardasz.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. UIW

INDIAN BUDDHA The Indian owned and operated Buddha has brought authentic ethnic food to Katowice. Marked by great service and richly furnished with elegant antiques, tapestries, tiles and gold silk place-settings, Buddha has a head start before the food even arrives and fails to disappoint in that department as well. If it says it’s spicy (gasp!) it actually is, the curries are rich and portions are more than healthy. If you’re looking for a midweek fix don’t miss their new lunch menu (Mon-Fri 12:0016:00) for just 20 PLN! Overall a fine effort and more than worth the total on the check, which arrives in a hand-crafted box. They also offer catering and delivery services.QM‑13, ul. Drzymały 9, tel. (+48) 726 11 12 22, www.buddharestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. €€. TW NEW INDIA GARDEN RESTAURANT AND CATERING We try to keep our informative descriptions as straight to the point as possible. Why should we waffle on when a few simple words sum up a place perfectly? The owners advertise their venture as ‘an interesting springboard from everyday Polish

food’. They’re right. And not without basis, as India Garden is brought to you by the popular Buddha Indian restaurant in the city centre of Katowice. They’ve branched out further south and offer not only the restaurant experience, where you can arrange events for family and friends, but also a catering service - perfect for businesses, conferences etc., which they can help you in organising (at least from the food side of things!).The menu is colourful and rich, and we have to agree, this certainly is an interesting springboard which will not leave you disappointed.Qul. Trojoka 1 (Podlesie), tel. (+48) 791 99 19 19, www.indiagarden.pl. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. T6W THALI HOUSE BY MASALA HOUSE Katowice’s newest restaurant is also the first Thali restaurant in the city. Brought to you by the same team that run the excellent Masala House across town, this new Indian offering is right smack dab at the beginning of Mariacki and promises exactly what’s in the name - Thali! If you’ve never experienced Thali before it is something akin to Indian tapas where instead of getting one bowl of curry or sauce you get six little bowls of delicious sauces, chutneys and curries served with rice and naan. The emphasis here is also on vegetarian and vegan options although meat options are also available. Once you walk into the beautifully designed and tastefully coloured interiors you’ll immediately be transported, and once you taste the food you’ll want to stay for the rest of the day.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 4, tel. (+48) 32 209 14 44, www.thalihouse.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€. TW katowice.inyourpocket.com 53

Restaurants VEGETARIAN & VEGAN

Botanika

BOTANIKA Nestled nicely into the basement and first floor of one of the brownstones (yes Katowice has brownstones!) on one of our favourite streets is this vegetarian and vegan treat. As the name suggests, they are all about cooking up hearty and healthy meals pulled straight from the garden. The specials include vegan and gluten free meals to knock your socks off; the lunch deals (22zł for soup & main) are based on seasonal products and change each day of the week. They serve up mighty fine coffee too with specially selected beans. The multicoloured meals match the warm woods, climbing vegetation and exposed brick walls of this comfy and friendly bistro and cafe.QN‑13, ul. Sienkiewicza 27, tel. (+48) 32 724 18 36. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. €. TE6W BUJNA This newly opened vege-vegan restaurant is right across from the main train station in Katowice - if you so wish, you can do a few forward rolls and be there in a jiffy (you’ll be dizzy, but you’ll be there nonetheless). A family run business, all with a passion for healthy living, this restobar also has a shop; they compliment each other, as everything you eat here can be purchased in said shop. Soups of the day are a delightful surprise, as are the choice of wraps. Most interesting was the soy-dog along with a fantastic freshly made juice! Stay healthy, stay mindful, and enjoy your visit.QM‑12, ul. Młyńska 17, tel. (+48) 531 33 12 00, www.facebook. com/bujna.restobar. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. €. T6W ZIELONY MOST Katowice seems to be getting greener by the day, and we’re not just talking about the grass on the International Congress Centre. This vegetarian/vegan bistro is the latest gastronomic outpost to offer up a full menu of lunch and dinners without harming a hair on an animal’s head. Seek the specials board which proclaims the presence of all sorts of soups, salads, curries, wraps, cutlets, falafel and even Silesian inspired dishes and an army of gluten and allergy free cakes and desserts. Wash it all down with healthy smoothies, local craft brews or even alcohol free beer!QM‑11, ul. Słowackiego 12/1, tel. (+48) 533 73 95 95, www. zielonymost.katowice.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. €. T6W 54 Katowice In Your Pocket

INTERNATIONAL BAR MONOPOL This regal bistro recently had its menu overhauled had its art-deco decor totally redecorated. Located in the heart of the City on the ground floor of the city’s only 5 star Hotel the very capable head chef has concocted the ideal seasonal sensations for light leisurely breakfast and midday meals. If you’re feeling a bit more peckish check out their daily lunch menu (daily from 12:00 - 16:00). Their extensive wine list will also help you start your day in style.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 08:00 23:00 , Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. €€€. UW BIERHALLE Dining in a shopping mall usually consists of being queue barged by tracksuited teens ordering burgers and putting the finishing touches to their acne, so Bierhalle is quite a bonus for all who find themselves exploring the guts of the Silesia City shopping mall. The best beer in Katowice should be the primary reason for your visit, but the food is by no means a poor relation. The menu here is pretty much as you’d expect: big piles of dead animals, perfect for lining the innards before putting their range of microbrews to the test. Order the likes of sausages, herring, and even tortillas, delivered cheerily by staff dressed like they’ve just finished milking cows. When the Sunday trading ban is in effect, regardless, they are open, albeit with a shorter day 12:0020:00.QJ‑8, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 01 61, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 21:00. €€€. W BISTRO & CAFE KRYSTYNKA WRACA Z WIEDNIA This bright little bistro is quite a refreshing take on the cuisine and style of Vienna. If you’re thinking starched napkins and gilded portraits of moustachioed Habsburgs, think again. There’s nothing haughty or hifalutin about this delectable diner. They offer straight ahead delicious food of the hearty soup and scrumptious schnitzel variety with a subtle tip of the hat to Austrian tradition. They also do great service to Viennese cake and coffee culture so make sure to stop by in the earlier hours for a java jolt and to break the fast. Also, saddle up to a big creamy bowl of soup and a luscious latte. With food and drink like this we are by no means surprised by Miss Kristine’s illustrious return... we just hope she never leaves us again. QM‑14, ul. Kościuszki 45, tel. (+48) 32 733 38 20, www. krystynka.com.pl. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00. €€. T6W BISTRO & CAFE ZIELNIK The term bistro gets thrown around a lot these days but this bright and bustling cafe is indeed a true blue bistro at heart. From hearty breakfasts, to fresh squeezed juices, creative cakes, thrilling lunch specials and exquisite entrees, there is a lot to like here. And the longer you stay the longer you want to stay. Our coffee and spinach cake ended in a

Restaurants 3 course lunch; they change their menu regularly! A good rule of thumb is if you can see and hear the chef cooking, you know your meal is the real deal. Superb!QN‑13, ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 46 04. Open 08:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. €€. T6W BOHEMA Entirely elegant, there’s little bohemian about Bohema with its wine glasses and white tablecloth approach to fine dining - except maybe the surprisingly moderate prices. Appear in-the-know by taking your date to this obscure restaurant on the south side and choose from a wide range of Polish and European meat and fish dishes; curiosities include the Salmon Carpaccio, tenderloin in forest mushroom sauce and an entire page of veggie side dishes entitled ‘Vitamins’ at the top. They even have a respectable kids menu to boot. Classy with a creme interior of black and white photos of 50s starlets, the separate downstairs bar offers something a bit more relaxed, although is only available for private parties and functions, so you must call in advance to arrange!QM‑15, ul. Bratków 4, tel. (+48) 32 202 51 80, www.restauracjabohema.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. €€€. TIW BUŁKĘS Their tagline is all you really need to know: Pulled Pork and Pancakes. If you’re still not convinced then how about local micro-brewed craft beers on tap and in bottles, and lunch options that will knock your socks off, Prosecco cocktails and homemade cakes. Still not convinced? Come find us on their urban terrace – we’ll be digging into yet another BBQ pork, bacon and blue cheese sandwich (we’re addicted already) and washing it down with a fruity Silesian Hajer IPA. We’ll have a word or two for you; come early and come often!QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 10, tel. (+48) 780 09 09 66. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 14:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. €€. TU6W DZIEŃ I NOC Entering any establishment is usually dependent on your choice of day and night options - do you want food during the day? Do you want to go for drinks in the evening? Well, entering this establishment is a clear choice between dzień i noc (night and day), as both are rolled into one! Located right in the city centre, come during the day for some great food, and quite a treat too, as the kitchen is headed by the talented Agnieszka Syguła! The Lunch option is two dishes (soup & main) for 25zł, or for something sweeter, a dessert and coffee for 15zł. Their steaks are definitely worth a try, and a nice touch, you can go to the fridge, choose your piece of meat and pay for the weight you choose! Once you’re done with the food, the night sets in and gradually some eating areas become a dancefloor. The cocktail bar is very much worth a try! Eat. Drink. Dance. I’m in!QN‑12, ul. Warszawska 5, tel. (+48) 531 03 40 34, www.dzieninoc. com.pl. Mon 14:00 - 22:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 22:00, Wed 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. TUE6

Restauracja Max Polish & International Cuisine, Venison

Katowice, al. Korfantego 105 +48 32 259 68 86

www.restauracja-max.pl

Katowice, ul 3 Maja 23

Sport Events on

42 TVs

4 bars 2 big screens tables 4 dart,billiards foosball tables

2dance floors www.citypub.pl tel. +48 32 253 97 99 www.facebook.com/city.pub.katowice katowice.inyourpocket.com 55

Restaurants

+ 48 604 866 173

3 Maja 33 street - where two great White Monkeys meet KLUBOGALERIA SARP This marvellous multifunctional restaurant, club, bar and architectural cultural centre arrived on the scene to much fanfare. Their various international inspired menus are reason enough to pay them a visit. On weekdays stop in from 12:0016:00 Mon-Fri for their daily lunch special, costing 19zł which includes soup, main and a dessert. If none of that floats your boat just order off of the regular dinner menu with inspired soups, sides and mains until 23:00. Their numerous flat screen TVs mean that this is the rare venue that you can eat a delicious meal, drink a great cocktail and watch the big game at the same time.QN‑12, ul. Dyrekcyjna 9, tel. (+48) 32 205 12 86, www.klubogaleriasarp.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. oW KOFEINA MINI The new train station and shiny new shopping mall are attracting all sorts of new businesses to a street that was downright downtrodden not too long ago. Kofeina Mini is exactly the type of place that’s changing the face of this central thoroughfare. This modern, bright bistro and cool cafe serves up all kinds of affordable and delicious dishes, many of which would pass for gourmet meals in more pretentious environs. Their chalkboard menu proclaims the daily specials and organizes them either by food type, “Pierogies, Soups, Pastas, Smoothies etc.” or by main ingredient, “Cod, Veal, Chicken, Salmon etc.” Everything is worth trying and don’t forget to grab one of their delicious coffee - sit and sip or grab and go.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 13, tel. (+48) 509 34 12 65. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. €€. T6W 56 Katowice In Your Pocket

PAN DE ROSSA Located in the Valley of Three Ponds – one of the city’s most popular recreation areas, Pan de Rossa makes more than just an appetising diversion for those creaking around on their bicycles. Unfortunately they downsized their seasonal terrace overlooking the pond when they moved across the road and into the trees. However what they lost in views they gained in design with a fresh, modern décor with lots of light through their large windows. The menu remains a dissertation on local grilled fish and game dishes but has upped the Polish selections, likely to cater to a more local audience.QS‑16, ul. Trzech Stawów 23 (os. Paderewskiego), tel. (+48) 32 256 05 52. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €€€. UW PATIO One of Katowice’s most popular restaurants just had an extensive renovation and they are all spiffed up and ready to serve. They got rid of some of the kitschy clutter, added some comfier chairs and brightened things up a bit so you can now see your delicious dish a bit better and feel relaxed as you eat it. Their extensive menu of regional dishes (Silesian beef roulade with dumplings and red cabbage) and European cuisine (pizzas, pastas, grilled meats and fish etc.) has plenty to offer. Their multilingual menus (English, German, French and Italian) make it easy for you to successfully order what some claim to be the best steak in town. For a bargain, visit between

Restaurants 11:00 and 16:00 Mon-Fri, when lunch is only 24zł. QM‑11, ul. Stawowa 3, tel. (+48) 32 781 55 55, www. restauracjapatio.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 23:00. €€. T6W PATIO PARK An exquisitely decorated and refreshingly spacious restaurant at the edge of Kościuszki Park. Reflected light above the faux trellises give the impression of daylight and cut branches hang from the trellises so as to give the impression of dining in a forest on a starry night. Countrystyle furniture, a rustic-themed mural, antique objects and elegantly simple table settings sustain the impression. Wait staff are pleasant and speedy to respond. The chef takes a creative turn with entrees, adding garnish to some to resemble trees. The menu is long, but you may not have to venture past the chef’s recommendations on the first page to find something tempting. They’ve recently introduced tasting menus on Mon and Tues (55-79zł). Don’t hesitate to bring the kids as they’ve just installed a new playground area so you can dine in peace.QK‑16, ul. Kościuszki 101, tel. (+48) 32 205 30 77, www.patiopark.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€€. TUW PATIO ZAJAZD The patriarch of the Patio family is also their biggest and most exclusive. The Polish ‘zajazd’ is something between a Diner, a Motel and a rip roaring wedding and function hall. Patio Zajazd fits the bill but ups the classiness and quality by a factor of ten. As with all Patio restaurants the food is the centrepiece and is a hearty mix of Polish staples and pan European fair. Steeped in tradition and experience, their chefs, waiters and hotel staff all provide top notch service and they even have a play area for your little ones (inside and out). Whether you’re simply stopping in for a bite to eat or staying for the weekend to celebrate a distant nephew’s nuptials. They have 22 comfortable Hotel quality rooms available on the premises.Qul. Kościuszki 352, tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www.patiozajazd.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€€. TUIW RESTAURACJA MAX This is an absolute Katowice institution and if you happen to have a taste for the wilder meats, then Max is the place for you to get your fix. Their cuisine hovers somewhere between trans-European and traditional Polish with an expansive menus of delicate starters, hearty soups and decadent mains. But the star of the show is undoubtedly the many exotic game dishes and regular specials they have on offer. Choose from roast wild boar or Venison steaks! If you can’t decide on just one go for the chef’s wild game platter for two. NOTE: Max is located about a 10 minute walk north of the Spodek and just off of our map on ul. Korfantego.QN‑7, Al. Korfantego 105, tel. (+48) 32 259 68 86, www.restauracja-max.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TW

ul. Stawowa 3, 40-095 Katowice tel. 32 781 55 55, 32 259 98 65 www.restauracjapatio.pl Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00

Our Family Tradition for over 70 years in gastronomy

Possibility of accommodation in cosy charming rooms! Open: hotel 24h, restaurant 8:00 - 22:00

ul. Kościuszki 352, 40-690 Katowice tel. 32 202 95 56, tel. kom. 666-388-108 www.patiozajazd.pl katowice.inyourpocket.com 57

Restaurants RESTAURACJA POD DREWNIANYM BOCIANEM A new franchise of a tried and true Chorzów and Ruda Śląska legends, the Katowice version of the stalky stork is a bit more modern and elegant than the rest of its flock. Here they have gone the downtown route offering fine dining mixed with occasional live music. Although the atmosphere is much more sophisticated the menu is in fact similar which is very much to their credit. Thin crust pizzas cooked in a wood fire oven are the centrepiece of their expansive menu which also delves deeply into other Mediterranean staples like pastas, salads and seafood with a smattering Polish classics and Silesian specialities for good measure. The portions are large and the food is outstanding. Judging from the positivity of the staff and the meticulousness of the new design and expansive private event room, this bird has come to roost for a long while. QK‑11, ul. Gliwicka 49, tel. (+48) 532 53 22 22, www. drewnianybocian.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€€. TW RESTAURACJA TAMARYND Located in the ground floor of the M Hotel Sosnowiec, the Tamarynd takes the hotel dining experience to a new level. Serving up a mix of Mediterranean classics highlighted by separate tapas and pizza menus plus a huge selection of starters, soups, salads, pastas and mains. With supremely elegant interiors accentuated by chandeliers, mirrors covering the walls and a bright and colourful decor, the only question you’ll be left asking is ‘Are these prices for real?’ Tamarynd gives you yet another reason to visit the up and coming North Eastern ‘borough’ of Sosnowiec.Qul. Wojska Polskiego 199 (M Hotel Sosnowiec), Sosnowiec, tel. (+48) 507 55 50 03, www. tamarynd.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 16:00 - 22:00. €€. XTUW

La cocina de México Mariacka 18a, Katowice tel. 32 209 01 40 www.elmexicano.pl 58 Katowice In Your Pocket

RESTAURACJA VACANZA It’s rare that a hotel restaurant would warrant the trip for those not staying upstairs, but Silesian dining is precisely the kind of perfect storm that makes Vacanza an oasis of taste. Warm Mediterranean interiors include a fireplace and sunny four season timber-beamed terrace, and it merely follows suit that the excellent menu be an exploration of southern European tastes and ingredients. With several banquet rooms on hand, it’s also worth considering if you’re planning more than a casual dinner.Qul. Olimpijska 4, Siemianowice Śląskie (Diament Vacanza Siemianowice Śląskie), tel. (+48) 32 606 83 83, www. restauracjavacanza.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TU 6W STEAKHOUSE DA DA If there were such a thing as the beaten path in Katowice, Stek House would certainly be off it, but it’s worth seeking out if you’re feeling particularly rapacious. With a variety of choice cuts of primo authentico Argentine beef steaks (Black Angus), Irish beef steaks (Hereford) and other choice cuts from around the globe (Chile, Japan and even Poland!). Steak burgers are also on offer! If you’re a meat lover you

Restaurants can’t go wrong. There’s an English menu on hand and the pleasant staff are more than happy to help out.QL‑14, ul. gen. Zajączka 17 (entrance from ul. Poniatowskiego), tel. (+48) 32 205 61 03. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Reservation only. €€€. W TATIANA A long, thin restaurant with elegant, cleverly designed wooden floors and ceilings. The organic design is enhanced with decorative bamboo and suspended reeds and a new lighting system which make for a bright and warm atmosphere. One of Katowice’s finer and suitably popular establishments, the menu features an extensive range of Slavic and European dishes including steaks (the best in the city?) plus a seasonal menu that changes every three months. The Silesian style ‘Żurek’ (sour rye soup) with mashed potato, sausage and egg is as traditional as you can get, and wow, what a taste! Great food with a wine list to match.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 5, tel. (+48) 32 203 74 13, www.restauracjatatiana.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€€. UIW

ITALIAN BAR A BOO The furthest restaurant on the Mariacka strip but more than well worth the trip. Specializing in pizzas, pastas and other Italian treats, this popular eatery hits all the right notes avoids being just another Italian place. With authentic wood fired pizzas at the heart of it all, their seasonal menus are built around the freshest of ingredients both sourced locally and imported from Italy. Their Pappardelle Porcini with porcini mushrooms, cured tomatoes, onion, garlic and wine and butter sauce was just the ticket! The colourful wine and drink menu (Prosecco, Bellini!) is expertly presented and paired by their friendly and knowledgable waitstaff. Delicioso!QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 37, tel. (+48) 32 399 15 26, www.baraboo.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TW CRISTALLO Climb a grand marble staircase to reach Cristallo, the stunning show-piece restaurant of the Monopol Hotel. A glass roof allows guests to watch the evening unravel above them, while the discreet interiors of bare brick walls and steel tubing lend a minimalist aesthetic to the experience. Select from the imaginative Italian (and Polish) inspired menu with succulent dishes from duck to a choice of grilled fish. You pay for the quality here, and it comes as no surprise that diners trek across Silesia to do so.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 09, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 18:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. UEW

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Restaurants LEN ARTE Len Arte takes the cake for the best pizza pie in town. The incredible smells wafting from their wood fired oven will hit you way before you queue up for a table. And wait you will (unless you call ahead), as this is one of the hottest gastronomic tickets in town. Once you make it inside you’ll see why their pies are so divine. They have countless artisanal Italian products prominently displayed behind the bar. Peperoncinis, prosciutto, pasta, parmesan, pesto, porcini oh my! Choose from an impossible list of pristine pizzas, scrumptious salads, perfect pastas and delicious dolces. Top it all off with an authentic espresso and you’ll be shouting Bravissimo along with the rest of town. QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 25, tel. (+48) 32 308 84 30, www.lenarte.it. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. T6W NOVO The first thing you’ll be struck by as you walk in to NOVO is the huge stone bake oven right at the bar (we think it’s the only one in Kato!). The second thing you’ll be struck by is the sight of all the chopped wood, used for said oven, stored all around the restaurant, craftily incorporated into the decor. The restaurant has a fantastic feel to it, with pots of herbs adorned on the outside wall of the courtyard garden. Now, order your food and watch as it’s all made in the glass walled kitchen outside - try not to put the chefs off from their fine work. You may notice the menu is printed on regular paper, and for good reason, as the menu is seasonal and regularly updated, although they do have their regular dishes. The wine list is huge and we’re sure you’ll find something to tickle your fancy.QO‑12, ul. Warszawska 15, tel. (+48) 572 35 91 31. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. To6W

ul. Porcelanowa 23, Katowice (Fabryka Porcelany) tel. +48 667 162 105

60 Katowice In Your Pocket

PRODIŻ BISTRO Hearing about this place had us excited for many reasons, not least because we were delighted when Fabryka Porcelany underwent revitalisation - we love old buildings that are given a new lease of life through a perfect blend of traditional elements mixed with modernity. And that’s exactly what Prodiż Bistro offers. A great place to come Mon-Fri for breakfast (until 12:00) and lunch (from 12:00). Choose from daytime favourites like omelettes, sandwiches, (special mention goes to their burgers!) with great coffees, but be aware, the menu changes regularly, so best check out their Facebook page for the latest offerings. One consistent element is the pizza, made in a wood-fired oven (Poland’s tallest, apparently!), which gives that extra oomph to the taste. If you miss out on the daytime eating, no worries, for the new venture by the owners is Prodiż Nero, which raised our eyebrows even more - as if one good place wasn’t enough, huh? Enjoy both. We did.QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Mon 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Sat, Sun. ATUS6W

Restaurants MEDITERRANEAN AÏOLI INSPIRED BY KATOWICE AïOLI Inspired by Katowice brings yet more Mediterranean flare to the city’s Rynek to accompany the deck chairs and palm trees next to the ‘mighty’ Rawa River. AïOLI is already majorly popular in Warsaw and Gdańsk, so it’s nice to see them branch out further to Kato (their first venture in the south of the country), and right in the heart of the city - it’s hard to miss them with the brightly lit sign on top of the building. The interior is the usual AïOLI style of post-industrial furnishings and open kitchen. As for the menu, as expected of AïOLI, it’s quite extensive, which means there’s always something for everyone: pasta with frutti di mare? No problem! Pizza? Burgers? Coming right up! We’re sure AïOLI will fit right in to the changing landscape of Kato. A restaurant and bar by day, on the weekends it becomes quite a lively music venue too.QN‑12, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 32 220 83 48. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. TUE6W LA CANTINA Here we go dropping the superlatives: Located 4km from Katowice’s centre in lovely Dolina Trzech Stawów (wait for it), those who make the trek out to this Mediterranean charmer (wait for it) will be rewarded with not only the beautiful surroundings of Valley of Three Ponds (wait for it), but also Katowice’s finest restaurant, hands down and undulating in adulation (!!). The stone and wood interior - comfortably casual, but with all the expected finery creates a warm dining atmosphere that will ripen any mood. Top off your superb meal of decadent delights with a killer wine list and it’s easy to forget Katowice isn’t located somewhere in Provence.QS‑16, ul. Trzech Stawów 22, tel. (+48) 32 256 29 27, www.la-cantina.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€. XTUI6W SHRIMP HOUSE Started by three brothers with a passion for cooking, Shrimp House provides something that in the past was lacking in Polish gastronomy but has been gradually springing up here and there, and is now available right in the centre of Katowice just a stone’s throw away from the main train station - damn good shrimp! Inspired by the food truck trend, the brothers offer delicious fresh shrimp bites (not tiny, frozen, poor quality prawns) served in a variety of ways - from pasta and tomato sauce, garlic and white wine sauce, curried shrimp all the way to Pho soup, all with various dips. The food on offer is the real deal...at long last.QN‑12, ul. Młyńska 11, tel. (+48) 726 50 06 66, www.shrimp-house.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€. T6W

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Mediterranean Cuisine THE BEST MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT IN THE REGION Let us take you to a Mediterranean climate where you can feel the rhythm of a sunny day. Our restaurant can be found in the HOTEL ALTUS PRESTIGE, FIRST FLOOR. ul. Uniwersytecka 13, Katowice mobile +48 512 020 808 tel +48 (32) 603 01 91 katowice@viatoscana.pl www.viatoscana.pl katowice.inyourpocket.com 61

Restaurants AMFORA MEZZE ARABIC CUISINE

VIA TOSCANA A sensory delight awaits you on the second floor of Altus Tower with intriguing interiors touting archways, lampposts, vines and even mock balconies. It’s every much as delightful on the palette as it is on the eye, with a menu featuring Argentinean beef, a great pickled salmon carpaccio and seafood. The house specialty is octopus in a white wine sauce with cherry tomatoes and arugala served over pappardelle pasta. Wine and dine al fresco on their expansive 60 person terrace. Equally suited to romantic trysts or hushed business dinners, Via Toscana is further proof of Katowice’s growing stature.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13 (Altus Tower), tel. (+48) 32 603 01 91, www.viatoscana.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. XT UW

MEXICAN BIAŁA MAŁPA MEXICO Drum roll, please! A new venue in what is probably our favourite courtyard in Katowice has arrived. Found right in the city centre, this place has an awesome street mural by local Silesian artist Raspazjan and the fantastic Biała Małpa with its multitap and craft beer offerings; and now Biała Małpa is branching out into the food world with its sister venue ‘Biała Małpa Mexico’ no prizes for guessing what kind of cuisine they have! Thanks to their Mexican chef, you’ll be delighted with the style of the food with all the classics you’d expect on offer. Inspired by their sibling across the courtyard, they have 6 taps for beer lovers (27 if you combine it with next door’s Biała Małpa), but in true Mexican style, tequila tasting boards and margaritas are definitely worth a try! As if there wasn’t enough reason to visit this courtyard before, you now have a fantastic choice of venues to choose from. A mural, great drinks, great food, all in one amazing courtyard. Recommended. QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 38, tel. (+48) 604 86 61 73, www. bialamalpa.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. €€. EW

AMFORA

Restaurant & Cocktail Bar Ul. Francuska 1A Tel.: +48 32 2535604 Email: restauracja@amfora.katowice.pl 62 Katowice In Your Pocket

EL MEXICANO If you’re anything like us and you’ve tried one too many cabbage filled tacos in mexican kitsch-fiestaurants across Poland, then you’ll understand our initial hesitation. But as soon as we saw the tastefully colourful exterior of El Mexicano, we knew this was something special. The small and brightly coloured interior balances perfectly with the straight ahead authentic Tex-Mex they serve. Mouth-watering spices meld with fresh ingredients, almost all of which actually belong in Mexican dishes (no kapusta rancheros here!). They even offer imported chipotle and habanero sauces if you want to fire up those fajitas. Besides great food and drink the atmosphere is relaxed and there’s absolutely no risk of being serenaded by a pimply faced Politechnika student in a sombrero. Muchos Bravos Mexicanos!QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 18A, tel. (+48) 790 82 26 82. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. W

Restaurants MIDDLE EASTERN NEW AMFORA RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR There’s nothing better than when a new place opens up and you feel the excitement of trying new food. Think of the delight on our faces when we entered expecting to eat middle-eastern dishes (already a plus) but to find that one of the stars of the menu is beetroot hummus! Utterly delightful and a perfect mix of a regional favourite with a middle-eastern classic. But there’s more. The menu is filled with many meat and vegetable delights, to sweet desserts like Baklava. We particularly liked the lamb kofta with Arabic style pickles, hot pepper, harissa and yoghurt. As for the interior, it’s modern but the waitressing style is old-school to the core - friendly, knowledgable, simply professional. You’ll be delighted to know the bar serves up some snazzy cocktails, from classics to some unique inhouse recipes. Wine is also available, and goes great with the meals. Come here for food, or come here for drinks with friends - you won’t be disappointed.QO‑12, ul. Francuska 1A, tel. +48 32 253 56 04. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. U6

POLISH CADENZA Occupying a prominent position on the second floor of the country’s foremost concert hall, Cadenza has a lot of rolls to fill; it is the pre-concert venue for dinner, drinks or snacks; it is the intermission wine and cake stop; it is the catering kitchen for all NOSPR special events that happen both inside and out; it is, most importantly, the most cutting edge and innovative Polish restaurant in Katowice. Every seasonal dish is carefully composed and explodes in a symphony of pianissimo and fortissimo flavors. The sturgeon, smoked apple, chicory and fennel are clear standouts and we will gladly return for an encore performance of more of their inspiring culinary delights.QO‑10, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 47, www.cadenza.pl. Open 10:00 22:00. Closed Mon. €€€. TW CHATA Z ZALIPIA Paying homage to the specific folk art tradition of the far-away Małopolska village of Zalipie, the rustic cottage interior of this pleasant peasant offering features elaborate flower murals on the white walls, garlic garlands hanging from timber beams and plenty of other farm fittings. Delicious Polish home-cooking is served on beautifully decorated ceramic dish ware, while waitresses in traditional dress and disco folk music round out what serves as one of the best introductions to Polish cuisine in Silesia. They’ve even won several culinary awards and what’s more, many Polish stars of stage and screen seem to count themselves as regulars. The one and only Slash polished off some pierogi (made from their own recipe) here not so long ago. Rock and rolada!QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 15, tel. (+48) 32 205 33 00, www.chatazzalipia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. TU6W katowice.inyourpocket.com 63

Restaurants RYCERSKI Located in what appears to be a wooden mountain chalet (but is in fact the Hotel Rycerski), this is a very decent place to take in the Polish food experience. Heavy wooden benchstyle furniture, friendly waitresses and large servings of wellprepared Polish grub are actually worth the trip out here, even if you’re not staying in the adjacent hotel. Lots of seating and a well-stocked bar mean that the atmosphere often develops into that of a thriving beer hall.Qul. Będzińska 53 (Hotel Rycerski), Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www. hotel-rycerski.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€€. TUW SMAQ FOOD & WINE Located in the fantastic Q Hotel Plus Katowice, don’t be put off thinking that you have to be a guest to eat here, it’s open to the public, and we’d highly recommend a visit. When we personally stayed at the hotel, we were delighted with the impressive breakfast offering, so we knew we simply could not pass up the chance see what they had on offer later in the day. The restaurant specialises in traditional Silesian produce and dishes with a modern twist (which are delightful), but international cuisine is also on offer. The helpful staff are always eager to help you, should you be unsure of what Silesian cuisine entails! Tuesdays are all about pasta with 5 dishes on offer, and Thursdays are steak & burger day! As for Sunday, this is family dinner day (we recommend booking in advance). For those looking to save a buck or two, Mon-Fri between 12:30-15:00 is happy hour - two dishes for the price of one! Recommended. QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 12, tel. (+48) 32 740 99 40, www.qhotels.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:30 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 12:30 - 23:00. €€€. TUW WIEJSKA CHATKA (THE RUSTIC HUT) Katowice’s only truly traditional Polish and Silesian restaurant is a nice change of pace if not slightly out of place. A cavalcade of country-style adornments such as old farming tools and painted flowers contrast nicely with the bright white walls. The background music is as kitschy and folky as it comes which goes perfectly with the large portions of hearty Polish staples and Silesian delicacies piled high upon your plate. They also offer breakfasts and lunch specials and a boat load of beverages to boot. This urban ‘Village’ is one you just must pillage when you’re in town.QN‑9, Pl. Grunwaldzki 4, tel. (+48) 32 350 30 10, www.wiejskachatka.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. €€. TW ZŁOTY RÓG (THE GOLDEN HORN) A combined delicatessen and place to stand at a table and eat in the style of a train station buffet, this humble-looking establishment churns out a large array of outstanding dishes ready to eat in an instant from pierogi to roast beef, all served with a superb choice of side dishes and salads. If you don’t mind the peculiar dining arrangements you won’t find it easy to get a better and tastier bargain than in here. Check in or visit their FB for details on daily discounts.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 2, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 48, www.zlotyrogkatowice.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. €€. 64 Katowice In Your Pocket

Restaurants SILESIAN NEW ISTO As if the cultural zone in Katowice is not wonderful enough in its own right, one of the city’s newest gastronomical ventures just adds to the zone’s status. ISTO is a fine place where lovers of Polish food are in for a treat with a very modern take on traditional Silesian dishes. It’s hard not to notice the UFO behind you as you enter, which also bounces off the glass and mirrors of the restaurant itself - a great architectural and interior touch, if we say so ourselves. Inside is reminiscent of post-industrial chic (hey, this is Katowice) and the menu is outstandingly tasty, with food being ecologically and regionally sourced. The lunch menu, which changes often, is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 and consists of 2 courses (49zł) or 3 (59zł). For those with time and desire, the 5 or 7 course tasting menus are stunning in appearance and taste, and in our opinion, fit in well with the transformation of Katowice itself - revitalised and refreshing. Highly recommended.QO‑10, Al. Walentego Roździeńskiego 1A, tel. (+48) 519 07 38 80. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. W MOODRO RESTAURANT Not to be confused with the Bistro/Cafe of the same name across the courtyard in the main museum complex, this is the much larger and more elegant restaurant in the old Machinery Building of the Silesian Museum. The refined exposed brick interiors with large picture windows overlook the rest of the Museum’s stunning campus. Their exquisite seasonal cuisine can best be described as Modern Silesian Fusion. Expect futuristic European fare and classic Silesian with flare (think rolada śląska with dumplings and red cabbage etc.). With a great wine list and impeccable service, you may find yourself becoming a repeat customer, Museum visit or not.QP‑10, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1A (Silesian Museum), tel. (+48) 795 55 93 01, www. moodro.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon. €€€. UW ŻUROWNIA If you’re not familiar yet with the Polish soup Żurek, it’s your lucky day. It is a sour rye soup and one of the most iconic of all Polish soups. This new bustling bistro is a shrine to the humble soup and you can order a big ole bowl with hard boiled eggs and/or sausages. But you know what they say, come for the soup and stay for the Silesian street food. The local patriotism is strong in this place (the main menu is in Silesian and the cooks shout at each other in it) and they scoured the whole region for the best quick bites they could find. Try the ‘Ślązak’ aka Silesian kielbasa hot dog or a ’Hajer’ tortilla wrap with red cabbage, beef and pickles, among other things. This is Silesian soul food served up fast and cheap as chips (braty)! Additionally, a weekly seasonal menu is on offer consisting of Polish and International dishes. There is also a conference room (holds up to 30 people, catering available), should you need it.QM‑13, ul. Ligonia 16, tel. (+48) 535 08 46 66. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TU6W

In the real heart of the city I S TO R E S TAU R A N T Aleja Roździeńskiego 1A Katowice

www.isto.com.pl /restauracjaisto restauracjaisto

katowice.inyourpocket.com 65

Polish Alcohol

4 Polish Alcohols You Have to Try …plus several others that also work… 66 Katowice In Your Pocket

Polish Alcohol VODKA TRANSLATOR

The crimson monogamy cure known as Wiśniówka.

1. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA

Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, we prefer it on ice.

2. ŻUBRÓWKA

One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.

3. KRUPNIK

Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.

4. MIÓD PITNY

Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional regional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink is extremely easy to consume and comes in four strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%).

Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their primary resource, the Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a more general term applied to a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Here are just some of the more notable varieties you can request at the bar or alcohol shop. Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka

HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the barrel-shaped stands selling cups of it on the market square during December’s Christmas fair. The popular regional brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily prepare it at home as well. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie! katowice.inyourpocket.com 67

Nightlife

Biała Małpa (p.63).

Katowice’s nightlife is improving steadily, with more and more bars and clubs opening that hold themselves to a higher creative standard. While there was a time when a Saturday night on the town felt like creeping quietly through a cemetery, that has all changed in a hurry with the emergence of ul. Mariacka (O-12) as the city’s nightlife headquarters. A pedestrianised three-block stretch that was once all strip clubs and shady gay saunas (ok, those are still there), the city has put a lot of energy into cleaning it up and turning it into the high street it should be. Despite some dreadful urban design decisions including ugly, uncomfortable benches and strange sculptures, the city is finally seeing results with a plethora of restaurants, cafes, cocktail bars and clubs moving in to give the city centre some buzz. In summer, Mariacka is full of outdoor seating and flooded with people, but there are plenty of other hedonist hideouts to discover elsewhere with the help of this guide. The venues we list below are located throughout the Silesian Metropolis, with the name of the town added to the end of the address after a comma (with a map reference if applicable) if it is not in Katowice proper; districts of Katowice are shown in brackets. The opening hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. ELITE Katowice isn’t exactly the place to take your twentysomething arm trophy for a romantic weekend, but you can probably pick one up while you’re here. To that end 68 Katowice In Your Pocket

try Cooler Club (p.72) or the more sophisticated Upojeni (p.72). LADS Foreign funboys can mix with the locals in the context of their own culture in the likes of Polish shot bars on Katowice’s main party strip, ul. Mariacka (0-12) then head to Klub Pomarańcza (p.72), before drinking enough Guinness to lurk across the lively dancefloors of Rajzefiber (p.73) or the classic City Pub (p.70). STUDENTS Not the most discerning demographic, students will go anywhere there’s fun music and cheap drinks, namely Browariat (p.73); those with more intent to impress will try Spiż (p.73), or Kato (p.71). COUPLES Couples looking for romance should find it by dropping in to Old Cuban (p. 71) for some of the best cocktails in the city and a truly tropical atmosphere, before retreating to the cosy cushions of Longway (p.71). ALTERNATIVE Katowice has a fair number of alt. venues with gamer orientated Cybermachina (p.70) and artsy Drzwi Zwane Koniem (p.70) being among the best offbeat boozers in the city. Hipsters and beer loving backpackers gravitate to Biała Małpa (p.69). Those with more elevated musical tastes will find few finer clubs than INQbator (p.72), whether there’s a live concert on or not.

Nightlife BARS & PUBS 27TH FLOOR A display of model aeroplanes, cocktails galore and impressive views of the city from the 27th floor mark this interesting adventure inside the Courtyard by Marriott as one worth further investigation. You can visit here, or the restaurants, Mon-Sat 14:00-22:00 and Sun 13:00-22:00. If you’re just here for the bar, it’s open Mon-Thu 18:0000:00, Fri 18:00-02:00, Sat 16:00-02:00 and Sun 16:00-00:00. QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 601 00 27, www.27thfloor.pl. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. XW ABSURDALNA Bringing modern art, street food and craft beer together under one roof: what an absurdly fantastic idea! When you first walk into this exceedingly colourful bar you could mistake it for an art gallery as the large front room hosts a rotating selection of edgy contemporary art. Keep heading deeper and you’ll find several rooms filled with funky furniture and all sorts of nifty nooks for you to snack and sip in. When you finally make it to the bar you’ll be delighted to find a 16 tap bar set up to serve a rotating variety of Poland’s latest and greatest craft brews (with a strong emphasis on Silesian Breweries). The street food menu offers tasty plates of cheap sides and mains. Check out their FB for upcoming events.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 3, tel. (+48) 537 67 02 70, www.absurdalna.pl. Open 15:00 00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:30. EW AMNEZJA Amnezja has a lot going for it without a lot of gimmicks. Unlike many of the other shady shot bars and crowded student dives, this place is seriously spacious, offering all sorts of nooks and crannies to tuck away in over three floors. Their buzzing beer garden is great for seasonal people watching on the Mariacka strip. There is a slight Western vibe with a lot of exposed brick and tasteful black murals of cowboys, Krakow and Katowice by art.pl. But the star of the show is most certainly the beer. Their claim to fame is the delicious super fresh “14 day” Tyskie which they get straight from the factory (which you can also takeaway). The perfectly poured Pilsner (in 3 different ways, no less) is equally worth your attention. In short, Amnezja is a great spot for groups, dates or solo acts looking to enjoy a modern day Silesian saloon.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 16, tel. (+48) 504 06 79 03. Open 10:00 - 03:00. XW BIAŁA MAŁPA (THE WHITE MONKEY) This alabaster ape drapes itself in cool and drowns itself in sudsy pools of amber nectar nightly. This premium primate has achieved cult status among Katowice beer lovers. You’ll see why as soon as you squeeze through its monkey bars. Warm woods, exposed brick and a new heated outdoor beer garden greet you before you even see the star of the show... the wall of beer! The biggest and oldest Silesian multitap bar has over 400 bottled varieties of Polish, Czech, Belgian, English and Irish artisanal beers and ales on hand plus a rotating cast of 20 brews on tap plus 1 pump. And don’t fear the beer, the

KATO FOR BEER LOVERS

After a dozen or so hangovers (and extra trips to the shop for bog roll), Polish beer generally leaves one with an understanding of why vodka is so popular in Poland. Silesia has the honour of being home to the two worst offenders – Tyskie and Żywiec – which enjoy ubiquitous national distribution and sadly also bear the mantle of Polish beer abroad. Basically a diet of these two gets boring fast for anyone with a real affinity for beer. What too often goes unrealised is that Poland actually has hundreds of independent micro-breweries that produce delicious beer. More and more bars in Katowice are popping up serving ambitious brews from tap and bottle. Some are even declaring it to be the year of beer! Biała Małpa (p.69) has perhaps the largest selection of draft and bottled beers in Katowice and will even please the fairer sex with their offerings of enhanced beers (think berry beer, chocolate beer and lemon beer). They offer a constantly changing selection of craft beers from around the globe but with a specific emphasis on the many Polish micro-brews gaining prominence. Beer experts, buckle up! It’s super trendy, but the beer in ul. Mariacka’s (O-12) Kato (p.71) is also super tasty. The selection of bottled micro-brews is always in flux but there are plenty to choose from; we recommend Magnus, a sweet dark beer from the Jagiełło Brewery in far eastern Poland. If you’re looking for something more local, head to Kontynuacja (p.72) to try a draught from one of the many local micro-brewers that have popped up in the region in recent years. At either place you can try a brew from Kraftwerk - these electro pop piwo pioneers are concocting some of the best Silesian beer, if not best Polish beer around. If you want to stack these national ales against their Czech counterparts make sure to stop into Hospoda (p.50) and immerse yourself in a sea of Czech suds from Kozel Dark to Rychtar to Radogast. If German Beer is your thing than head to the brand new Browariat (p.73) for a bucket of Bavaria’s finest brew. If it’s multitap you want, head to Upojeni (p.72) with their fine selction of craft beers. The last of the great breed of beer places is Spiż Club (p.73) which has a solid offering of brews on tap - a beer place by day and a club hotspot by night. Na zdrowie (‘to your health’); literally. katowice.inyourpocket.com 69

Nightlife TYSKIE BREWERY

MUSEUM OF THE DUKE’S BREWERY IN TYCHY The Tyskie Brewery has been brewing beer continuously for nearly 400 years. Originally German-owned, today Poland’s most famous brewery produces over 8,000,000 hectolitres of ale annually, and 13 varieties of beer, including Tyskie Gronie lager - Poland’s bestselling beer. The enormous historical brewing complex is one of Silesia’s architectural marvels, much of which is open to the public for guided tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a humorous and informative English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire modern production process and the four-century history of the brewery, beginning in the Browarium (Brewery Museum). Housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic former Evangelical church built in 1902, this rather superb space combines modernity and tradition across several fascinating multimedia exhibits on the craft of brewing, serving and imbibing beer, and displays full of historical brewing equipment and beer paraphernalia. A 3D film also tracks the history of the Tyskie Brewery through the ages. Next your guide takes you through parts of the production plant, starting from the Old Brewery - an immaculatelypreserved space filled with decorative tiles and WWI-era copper vats that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly fit inside them. Highlights include the saucy tales from the so-called ‘Bachelors’ Quarters,’ a glimpse of the brewery’s own railway station and a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. And of course it all concludes with a tasting session in the on-site pub. Tours are available in in Polish, English, German, Italian, Czech, Russian and in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted to hear what that might sound like), and must be booked in advance. For an extra 20zł, take the extended Ducal Tasting School tour, and learn how to bring a full bouquet of flavours and fragrances out of beer over the course of workshops and tastings with a beer expert.Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.zwiedzbrowar. pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun, Last entrance 3 hours before closing. Visitors must be over 18 and should call in advance to book a place on the tour. Admission 30/25zł. For groups of 20 or more it’s 28zł per person. 70 Katowice In Your Pocket

knowledgeable staff is eager to offer advice and help you navigate their seas of suds. Come for a coffee during the day and fight with all your might to order that first pint of the night or try out their whisky offers! If that doesn’t tickle your fancy, the good folk here have now opened Biała Małpa Mexico in the same courtyard, offering Mexican dishes prepared by a Mexican, along with tequila tasting boards and fantastic margaritas!QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 38, tel. (+48) 604 86 61 73, www.bialamalpa.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. oW CITY PUB One of the places that always comes up when enquiries are made about the best places to drink in town and its cult status is unquestionable. The seemingly small bar is delightfully deceptive as the ground floor houses two bars, numerous private rooms including a billiards, foosball and darts lounge, several larger rooms and a decked out dance floor not to mention smoking rooms and a swanky VIP lounge in the basement with a couple more bars to boot! The true charm of City Pub (the oldest pub in Kato!) is that it manages to walk the line between being a Pub and a Club. Curl up with one of the best poured Guinness in Silesia to watch a match or play some billiards during the week and on the weekends dive into their den of sweaty delinquency. One of the few places we’ve been that also has accommodation just up the the stairs!QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 97 99, www.citypub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. XUW CYBERMACHINA And now for something completely different… Classic Nintendo characters great you as you wander wide-eyed into this neon dream gaming lounge that offers all sorts of entertainment for hardcore gamers, pinball wizards, jenga junkies and the occasional Catan cartel. Order up a craft brew on tap or out of bottle or power up on one of their signature cocktail elixirs and shots. Even if you are flying solo, the wall of console games and the big screen TV streaming worldwide video game tournaments will keep you enthralled all night long. Check their FB page for special events and tournaments.QN‑12, ul. Św. Jana 10, tel. (+48) 608 12 11 93, www.cybermachina.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. UW DRZWI ZWANE KONIEM One of the city’s newest “restobars” just also happens to have one of the city’s best beer gardens or, rather, a sprawling green terrace. With plenty of tables and chairs, pallet furniture and beach loungers to choose from they have the perfect seating option whether you’re just stopping in for a quick bite or making a night of it! Inside the hip environs are deftly designed and intimately inviting. Order up a cafe beverage or lemonade at the bar by day or grab a local beer or glass of wine by night. Their carefully curated menu features an eclectic mix of Polish and European inspired light appetizers, sweet waffles, Belgian and French fries

Nightlife that you can order all day. The menu will be seasonal and democratic so do let your waiter know if you enjoy your meal. Fresh and refreshing!QO‑12, ul. Warszawska 37, tel. (+48) 32 204 12 53, www.drzwizwanekoniem.pl. Open 14:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:00. ToI6W KATO Once a discreet DIY bohemian art bar, this hipster hangout is THE place to be seen in Kato’s underground cultural scene. Despite being inside a perfectly sound structure, the bar is made almost entirely of unpainted plywood, from the tables to the wheat-pasted walls covered in graphic nonsense, all in an attempt to convince the shabby-chic clientele that they haven’t gone mainstream on Mariacka, but are merely squatting. Since a recent expansion, tattooed, counter-culture queens and their jacks continue to spill onto the seasonal pallet tables and fritz cola benches. Bolstered by a solid selection of Czech and Polish microbrews, Kato is the best alternative nightlife venue in town, bar none.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 13, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. EW LONGWAY The newest bar to hit Katowice, serving cocktails and over 250 kinds of vodka from Poland and all over the world. Located in the centre, just along from Plac Wolności, Longway is a quaint bar with a lot of history. Enter to see spruced up original wood furnishings, and a nice, well, long bar! Eager beavers will be interested to know there has been a bar here, in various incarnations, since at least 1912 (the only unaccounted for period being during World War II, which I’m sure you can forgive!). The service is friendly, chatty and informative, great for discussing your next cocktail option! If sitting at the bar isn’t your thing, relax amongst the cushioned area next to the window and watch the world go by, just like this bar has been doing for over 100 years.QL‑11, ul. Gliwicka 10, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 62. Open 18:00 - 23:00, Thu 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Closed Mon. EW MR. FOX PUB & RESTO This sly fox has a streamlined retro feel and a laid back atmosphere which belies its considerable gastronomic ambitions. The extensive food menus cover all the major meals (including happy hour) and span most current culinary trends from obvious winners like burgers and pizza to healthier fare such as goat cheese salad, plus there’s even a little Mexican thrown in! Their extensive drink menu almost overshadows their impressive food offer with all manner of smoothies, shakes, original cocktails, coffee beverages and tea drinks. Good luck leaving this foxhole unsatisfied. QN‑12, ul. Dyrekcyjna 3, tel. (+48) 32 257 65 17. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. W OLD CUBAN Although it might sound like just a theme bar, Old Cuban is Katowice’s brightest new cocktail star. The experienced mixologists will help you navigate their vast rare rum selection and suggest a perfectly balanced cocktail just for you. Bacardi based cocktails are their bread and butter,

Discover the pearl of Silesian architecture and a modern brewery. All in one place. The tour will be completed with a glass of freshly brewed Tyskie Gronie 14-days beer. We are open Monday to Saturday, 10 AM to 8 PM 9 Katowicka Street, 43-100 Tychy Tour booking: + 48 32 327 84 30 kontakt@zwiedzbrowar.pl www.zwiedzbrowar.pl

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Nightlife but ye ole rum & coke is just the beginning. Order the signature Old Cuban cocktail and be transported to a Caribbean beach with it’s ideal sweet and sour notes with a silky smooth finish. They also have an arsenal of whisky, bourbon, vodka and gin on hand not to mention a fortress of fruit and mixers for whipping up any cocktail under the sun. The atmosphere is lively and laid back (ask about the bras on the walls) and the beautiful bar was built for extended sipping sessions.QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 26A, tel. (+48) 530 75 47 66, www.oldcuban.com.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. W PUB KONTYNUACJA It’s official, the beer gods have descended upon Katowice. This super-sleek multi-tap bar is now in its second location just a stone’s throw from the new ‘Rynek’. The style and philosophy are similar to their old location with 16 taps and one pump pouring pints of the finest Polish and European craft micro-brews. The taps rotate on a daily - sometimes hourly - basis but you can always be sure to find the newest brews from Browar Podgórz, Browar Stu Mostów and Browar Artezan. Expect the bar to be packed with a healthy mix of hipsters, trend hoppers and beer geeks. So grab a chair and raise your glass in the air, because you ain’t going nowhere.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 8, tel. (+48) 668 52 58 25, www.kontynuacja-katowice.ontap.pl. Open 16:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Uo6W UPOJENI Full disclosure: this writer has a serious soft spot for Polish new-wave multi-tap craft beer bistros that serve up tasty tapas and beautiful burgers which pair perfectly with the delectable nectar flowing from the pristine pipes. In other words, you had me at hello Upojeni. And the fact that this cosy yet modern two floor secluded bar also serves daily breakfast (buy a coffee between 08:00-12:00 and pay between 1-5zł for breakfast, depending if you want basic or fancy), and/ or gourmet lunch specials means I have more than enough reasons to justify a return visit in the nearest of futures. Come early, come often and I’ll see you at the bar! Seasonal menu always on offer, as is a lunch and/or a la carte menu.QN‑12, ul. Św. Jana 10 (entrance from the interior courtyard), tel. (+48) 535 07 03 62. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. Uo6W ŻÓŁTE DRZWI Quality cocktail bars were one of the things Kato seriously lacked for a long time and sorely deserved. The last year has turned the trend around and now the city centre is bursting at the seams. The Yellow Door is the newest entry and it’s an instant classic. The exposed brick and tall wrap-around wood bar are the main features of this dark lit one room wonder. But don’t let the size fool you as this place gets packed in the evenings and even hosts concerts and DJs on the weekends. Try one of their bespoke cocktails on for size (whiskey sour all the way) or drop in during the day for quality coffee and cake. Classy and classic.QN‑12, ul. Dyrekcyjna 10, tel. (+48) 690 10 52 00. Open 15:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. E6W 72 Katowice In Your Pocket

CLUBS COOLER CLUB & FOOD If by cooler you mean louder and more self aware, then this is the coolest joint in town, bro. Typical of most fancy fashion clubs we’ve finessed our way into the last few years, Cooler treads a familiar line of indulgent ornate extravagance and modern minimalism in violet, silver and black, with illuminated liquor shelves, fabric covered walls and original bricks. Small, without anywhere to escape the deafening hip-hop and r’n’b pop noise that carries throughout the entire building and down the street on weekends, some (like ourselves) would be better suited to enjoy it in the early evening when it serves quite nicely as a sexy cocktail lounge and place for a lite bite. The club opens Fri & Sat, 21:00-05:00. QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 20/1, tel. (+48) 508 24 91 98, www. coolerclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. oW INQBATOR Hit them on a Saturday and you’ll struggle to find a better venue in town for electro sounds. As such it’s a highly charged crowd you’ll find staring into space with cartoon smiles while repetitive beats shoot fireworks into what is left of their brain. The walls quite literally drip with sweat, while the murky interiors look like they’ve been thrown together as an afterthought by a stoned student with time on his hands. Completely excellent.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 668 37 24 33, www.inq.pl. Open Fri 18:00 05:00 and Sat 20:00 - 06:00 only. XW KLUB POMARAŃCZA Continuing the Katowice trend of mistaking a club for an airport, this mega-fun factory just upped the ante and went for a total redesign. Once you clear the metal detector, ample cover-charge and grabby security guards hit the massive dance and be prepared for total sensory overload. The floor is beset with all manner of synchronized lighting effects, LED Screens, smoke machines and more lasers than the Death Star. Dancers wiggle away on platforms and perches, lovely ladies watch from the balconies above and couples cuddle in the plush booths all around. But this is just the start! There are a total of 3 dance floors, 6 bars, 2 VIP sections spread over 3 floors. They claim this is one of the most modern Dance Clubs in all of Central Europe and it’s hard to disagree.QM‑12, ul. Matejki 3, tel. (+48) 513 60 03 00, www.klubpomarancza.pl. Open Wed, Thu 21:00 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00 only. XW KLUB PRIME Kato’s hottest dance club has a seriously Prime location and is more than worth your time and attention. Opening up just on Friday and Saturdays, this expansive club offers a mix of industrial interiors, chill out spaces, vip lounge areas and two stocked bars. Their deft DJs spin a mix of techno and bass music bangers with just the right amount of Pop to pack the dance floor. They’re trying hard to make this the prime destination for all heat seeking weekend party peoples and judging from the lines at the door, all systems go go go!QO‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 10, tel. (+48) 883 99 53 73, www.klubprime.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00.

Nightlife KRÓLESTWO (THE KINGDOM) This kingdom of sound and culinary vision is perched high in the eye of the city right in the middle of all the action. In just under a year this new restaurant and music venue has turned a lot of heads and made a lot of noise. You’ll want to immediately check their FB page to see what upcoming concerts are on as they regularly feature the best local, national and international touring acts and DJs. It is one of the biggest and nicest venues in the city with exceptional sound and amazing views. By day make sure to stop by while you wander across the city as they have perhaps the best lunch specials in the city. Top marks!QN‑10, Rondo gen. Ziętka 1, tel. (+48) 508 39 29 30, www.krolestwo. eu. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. XUoE6W RAJZEFIBER (TRAVEL FEVER) There’s a new king in town and just months after lowering his drawbridge he already has legions of loyal subjects crashing his castle nightly. Rajzefiber has truly achieved a rare and almost impossible feat by successfully filling a huge gap in Katowice’s nightlife with serious style and enviable ease. The city centre club offers an ambitious lineup of great live music AND hot DJs plus offer a menu of quick bar food and rocking cocktails. Upon entering the recently expanded second floor club we had the feeling we’d been coming here for years. The place was totally packed and already jumping at 19:00 on a Saturday. When we came back at 23:00 there was a line 30 people deep waiting to get in! There’s a rising fever for Rajzefiber. QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23/3, tel. (+48) 884 90 51 68, www. rajzefiber.com. Thu 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. XW SPIŻ (BRONZE) Few places have reinvented themselves so fully and completely in recent memory then Spiż. In 2011 the storied dance brewery shuttered their doors for a ‘renovation’. At some point one of the powers that be ended up on a plane to Ibiza and the decision was made to purchase a sound system and light display that would make David Guetta go deaf and blind. In a year and a half’s time the massive two floor club was given a facelift, tummy tuck and a boob job and what you’ll find inside will literally blow your mind. They claim it’s the most modern night club in Poland and from the looks of it they aren’t just blowing smoke (machines)... If you consider yourself a fan of serious clubbing and great beer - it is your destiny to dance here.. till you can’t hear... for a year.QL‑11, ul. Opolska 22, tel. (+48) 32 781 11 32, www.spiz.pl. Open Wed-Fri 21:00 05:00, Sat 21:00 - 06:00 only. XUW

JAZZ CLUBS HIPNOZA JAZZ CLUB This intimate, laid-back concert venue books some of the city’s best international gigs, the reputation and subsequent turnout for which often exceeds the size of the space. Packed with interesting characters sitting on

truly comfortable couches and lazyboys beneath foilwrapped ducts and rotating psychedelic spirals on the walls, there’s also a decent food menu of pastas, burgs and zapiekankas (ask a friend) if you get a snack attack. QN‑14, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 660 47 61 56, www.jazzclub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. XUW

MICROBREWERIES BROWARIAT The brew brothers behind Browariat literally built the bar around mostly Bavarian craft beer brands. Flötzinger, Schonram, Siren, Bolero Snort, Jopen, Fourpure, The Kernel, Partizan Het Uiltje, Brew By Numbers and Founders brews are on tap and in bottles in a colourful variety of hand crafted ales, dunkels, stouts and IPAs. Each style has its very own corresponding glass, stein or flute. They also offer a selection of beers from a visiting brewer on a rotating basis. Choose whichever tasty beverage suits your fancy and settle into one of the many cozy corners or plunk down in front of a plasma screen and support your favourite sport. They also play music from vinyls, which is a nice touch. QO‑13, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 535 00 97 68, www. browariat.com. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 22:00. oW

WINE BARS BURGUNDIA WINE TASTINGS & WINE SHOP Hidden away down the same dark alleyway as City Pub, Winiarnia Burgundia features both a shop and bar in which to indulge one’s taste for the grape. By far the best of the city’s wine bars, find a slightly snobby albeit enjoyable and relaxed atmosphere. A really admirable selection of world wines and ciders for all tastes and budgets.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 75 19, www.burgundia.com. pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT QUEENS This well-regarded club features two bars, one wherein girls go-go dance on a table in the middle and it would be difficult to stand up from some of the seats without picking a stripper up on your shoulders. There’s also a Jacuzzi and a sauna and highly suggestive massage services available year round. Queens also seems to operate an escort service, making their girls, who have been charmingly described as “no pros, simply girls of next door, study or are housewives,” available for business and family functions, movie dates and birthdays (their suggestions). This could be the way to finally become the ‘cool uncle’ at the next family barbecue.Qul. Ceglarska 35, Gliwice (Ligota Zabrska), tel. (+48) 32 305 30 20, www.queensnightclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 05:00, Closed Sun. X katowice.inyourpocket.com 73

Leisure

Kolejkowo (p.75) where giants (you) get to see the world in miniature.

Though it wouldn’t appear so on first, second or third glance, Katowice and the surrounding areas possess a startling number of recreational areas and leisure opportunities. Though known more for its industrial ‘attractions’ and poor air quality than its nature conservation record, Silesia has some of the largest urban green spaces, not only in Poland, but all of Europe. Chorzów’s Silesia Park is a veritable leisure section’s worth of activities in itself, and though we’re tempted to stop there, it’s only one of an incredible four parks in the immediate area that weigh in at an impressively over-sized 70+ hectares. If you’re searching for daytime alternatives to drinking and tumbling down mineshafts, they do exist. From horse-riding to star-gazing, from climbing to flying, Silesia offers plenty of opportunities for you to get up, get out and get busy.

check website for full details. Reservations recommended. QL‑11, ul. Dąbrówki 10, tel. (+48) 32 781 08 60, www. clubgarage.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.

BOWLING & BILLIARDS

INDOOR ATRACTIONS

KRĘGIELNIA GALAKTYKA (GALAKTYKA BOWLING CLUB) Located inside a 2000 square metre entertainment centre that includes the Black 8 billiards club, a music club (Club Garage) and a restaurant, this popular bowling alley features 8 lanes (plus 2 for kids), planetary graphics, computerised scoring, a full food and snack menu and even a stocked bar. True bowlers may find the setup which forces you to walk through every lane a bit frustrating, but not nearly as much so as the lanes themselves: extremely narrow, bowling has probably never been harder and you can forget about trying to put any spin on the ball. Still, it’s a fun atmosphere. Depending on the day of the week and time of day, lane rental costs 35-79zł/hr plus 2zł shoe rental;

BREAK THE CODE ESCAPE ROOM There are a whole host of escape room games popping up across Poland, and Katowice is not one to be left on the sidelines anymore! The concept is simple, you must play the game, break the code and escape the room (from a choice of four)! To say more would spoil the fun! Games are for 2-4 people with games lasting 1 hour at a cost of 99zł p/ group. Introductions are available in English, but after that, no English available, which should not put you off as the games are fairly universal in nature. The worst that could happen if you don’t understand is you remain locked in FOREVER.QO‑12, ul. Św. Stanisława 9/3, tel. (+48) 790 27 53 33, www.breakthecode.pl. Open 15:30 - 22:15, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 22:15.

74 Katowice In Your Pocket

CINEMAS MULTIKINO Head to Multikino right in the city centre in Galeria Katowicka (p.76) to see the latest films. Katowice’s branch has plenty of screens, 2D & 3D screens, and Poland’s first Dolby Atmos system in the Xtreme screen hall, which is nicely paired up with a 4K projector!QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 30, tel. (+48) 32 661 41 00, www.multikino.pl. Box office open from 15 minutes before first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 15-40zł.

Leisure FLYSPOT KATOWICE Only one of two Flyspot’s in Poland (the other being in Warsaw), here, you can spread your wings... or your arms, if you don’t have feathers. This futuristic adrenaline junky paradise has both a freefall simulator and a Boeing 737 flight simulator. It isn’t cheap, but it’s damn fun, with prices being: 229zł (Mon-Thu) or 249zł (Fri-Sun) for adults, and 199zł (MonThu) or 219zł (Fri-Sun) for kids 18 and under. The price includes 2 flights in the freefall simulator/20 mins. and [for adults only] the Boeing 737 simulator.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 100, tel. (+48) 698 62 65 00, www.flyspot.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. NEW KOLEJKOWO - A WONDERFUL WORLD IN MINIATURE All aboard! All aboard now! OK, you may not quite fit onto your train here, but at least you can follow it, and even outpace it, in Kolejkowo, which which boasts to having Poland’s largest model railway, totalling 460m of track travelled by 12 trains! We had a surprisingly amusing time here and it’s all thanks to the detail of the displays showing everything from Silesian landmarks, scenes of daily Silesian life (look carefully!), and even a wild west mock-up, all spaced out over 900m2. Located in the corner of Gliwice’s ‘Shopping Centre Europa Centralna’, it’s quite easy to get to. Just east of the ‘Rynek’ (old town square) from bus stop ‘Gliwice Mikołowska’ on ul. Mikołowska, take the hourly city bus 232 which will take you directly to the shopping centre in only 15 mins (make sure to buy 20-min tickets, 3.20zł standard or 1.60zł reduced fare, from machines prior to boarding).Qul. Pszczyńska 315 (Shopping Centre Europa Centralna), Gliwice, tel. (+48) 880 00 60 01, www.kolejkowo.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 19/15zł. Group ticket (up to 15 people) 15zł/12zł. LASERHOUSE This excellent 600 square metre laser tag arena near the centre of Katowice is equipped with strobe lights, florescent graffiti, dry ice, dynamic music and elaborate backdrops to fully immerse gamers into an exciting futuristic world. Engage your opponents in a sci-fi shootout while using barrels and tire pyramids for cover, or take a crack at the challenging laser maze (30 minutes for 50zł) with varying levels of difficulty. Laser Tag games are 30mins and cost 18zł Mon-Fri before 16:00, 22zł after 16:00 Mon-Thu and 25zł on a Friday. Weekends are 25zł all day. Attempts at the laser maze are 5zł. Also at ul. Wojska Polskiego 47 in Sosnowiec, Pl. Tadeusza Kościuszki 1 (C.H. Agora) 3 floor in Bytom.and ul. Bolesława Chrobrego 6 in Rybnik.QL‑12, ul. Kamienna 9, tel. (+48) 32 229 00 21, www.laserhouse.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

INDOOR PLAYGROUNDS CIUCIUBABKA Basically the best babysitters out there, Ciuciubabka gives your kids an opportunity to wear themselves out in a safe, supervised environment full of slides, ballpits, inflatible bouncy things, jungle gyms, arts and crafts and a lot more. The desert island every kid wants to get left on. Everybody

wins. Tickets prices for weekdays/weekends: first half hour 7/8zł, second started half hour 6/7zł, one hour 13/15zł, unlimited playtime 21/25zł.QK‑7, ul. Jabłoniowa 52 (Józefowiec), tel. (+48) 504 21 68 14, www.ciuciubabka. com.pl. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

SPA & BEAUTY NEW LILY NAIL SPA With a lovely and relaxed interior, sharing the space with Thai Sabai, the mood is set for your treatment. On offer are a choice of manicures (with 15% off your first visit) from hybrid, gel to classic with a huge selection of colours, and also a pedicure that comes with a free back massage! The service is highly professional and very friendly, and the whole time your comfort will be of the upmost importance to the staff. What more could you want? It’s important to know that the nail spa is located in the mezzanine above the food court in Galeria Katowicka. Despite the Sunday trading ban, the spa is still open, but with slightly different working hours, 11:00-21:00.QM‑12, ul. 3 maja 30 (Galeria Katowicka), tel. (+48) 577 81 80 88. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. TERMY RZYMSKIE Found in the impressive Pałac Saturna (see Apartments), these Roman baths were reportedly constructed based on plans for the baths at Pompeii and include a series of pools, baths and saunas which combine ancient and modern-day methods to relax and regenerate you plus a fitness club, restaurant and bar on site. The entire complex is something to behold, not least of all for its obligatory ‘nude-only’ policy. The only exception is Mondays when bathing suits are allowed in the pools. The surprisingly low prices and bold dress code have garnered this place plenty of attention.Qul. Dehnelów 2, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 267 26 98, www.palacsaturna.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:45, Mon 15:00 - 22:45, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. NEW THAI SABAI Although it might seem you’re submitting yourself to voluntary torture at first, a Thai massage (acupressure mixed with assisted yoga) is a truly refreshing experience we’d fully recommend. It’s true, there will be some straining and gritting of teeth (some of you may initially find it painful), but stick with it, for the outcome is one big wow. Located in Galeria Katowicka, Thai Sabai offer various services, from face, feet and leg massages, to a full body traditional Thai massage that will cost 120zł. Each session lasts 1h. During your massage, you will experience the relaxed atmosphere with Thai music, aromatic oils, warm stones, facial peeling and masks. For the less faint-hearted, a gentler Balinese massage is also available. Whichever you choose, you’re guaranteed to leave feeling brand new. The premises is shared with Lily Nail Spa. Thai Sabai’s 2nd location is to be found in Silesia City Center.QK‑8, ul. 3 maja 30 (Galeria Katowicka), tel. (+48) 888 58 84 78, www.thaisabai.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. katowice.inyourpocket.com 75

Shopping

Luxury jewellery and products all available at Lilou (p.77)

What little shopping opportunities there are to be found in Katowice are mostly located in the area immediately north of the train station. Like most of 21st-century Poland, many shops are given over to the sale of women’s fashion, with more interesting independent enterprises in seriously short supply. In lieu of the small, communist-era malls around the Rynek, Katowice’s best collection of shops under one roof is the extraordinary Silesia City Centre; if you can’t find what you’re looking for there, then you might have to leave PL to get it. That aside, we’ve made an effort through this section to focus on small local or national businesses you won’t find wherever you’re from.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely have gone into effect. Phased in gradually, in 2018 trade has been allowed on only the first and last Sundays of each month, forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. Beginning in 2019, trade will only be allowed on the last Sunday of each month. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following is a list of Sundays when shops are allowed to be open: Nov. 4, 25 | Dec. 2, 16, 23, 30 Jan. 27 | Feb. 24 | March 31 76 Katowice In Your Pocket

ALCOHOL Nothing says ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of booze and an increased alcohol tolerance. Indeed, if retracing your activities while in Katowice you may have to concede that alcohol makes the most logical memento. While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), Żołądkowa Gorzka (bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature gold flakes. BURGUNDIA WINE TASTINGS & WINE SHOP A really admirable selection of world wines for all tastes and budgets in this shop/wine bar hidden in a courtyard near the train station. Another location in the Altus Centre (H-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13).QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 75 19, www.burgundia.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. KONDRAT WINA WYBRANE Not your typical wine shop. Own and operated by a famous Polish actor, they carefully handpick each and every wine that line’s their shelves assuring only the best selection of vintages from the Old and New world for your sipping pleasure.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 10/1, tel. (+48) 32 205 20 94, www. marekkondrat.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 19:00. Closed Sun.

Shopping WHISKY & SPIRIT HOUSE If you happen to be a whisky and high end spirits lover, or you know someone near and dear who is, then this shop is a must stop. It’s no accident they spell ‘whisky’ without an ‘e’ as exclusive Scotch single malts are their specialty and we dare say they may just have the best selection we’ve seen in all of Poland! Talisker, Laphroaig, and Macallan are just the beginning and the knowledgeable owner/ specialist will gladly help expand your knowledge and improve your pallet. Of course you’ll also find highend bourbons, voluptuous vodkas, lucious liquours and, oh yeah, some pretty good whiskey as well. They also have a great wine, cider and craft beer selection to fill out their impressive offer. We recommend you take your time to find that perfect tincture or tipple because it’s certainly here somewhere.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 13, tel. (+48) 511 55 54 11, www.whiskyandspirit.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

AMBER & JEWELLERY I COAL YOU A unique gift can come in many forms, but from Silesia, it may seem like a simple solution, but Icoalyou create jewellery made from nothing other than coal! Coal is to Silesia what amber is to the Baltic region and Icoalyou rightly promote their black gold. Each item is handmade and polished, resulting in utterly unique pieces. You can purchase items from various places around Katowice and Silesia, including Gryfnie (ul. Andrzeja 8), Biksa (pl. Marki 1), Hotel Ibis Katowice Centrum, Hotel Ibis Zabrze and the Guido Mineshaft. A full list of places where you can buy these unique gifts can be found on their website.Qwww.icoalyou.com. LILOU This uniquely colourful and immediately inviting salon is filled with all sorts of glittering gadgets, precious pendants, delicate necklaces and leather bracelets. Their elegantly playful nature of the salon gives you the freedom to mix and match any of the items on display. The expert and friendly staff will happily help you choose the right piece and customise it so that special someone will cherish their talisman even more. Lilou is the perfect melding of French elegance and Polish craftsmanship. 2nd location now in Silesia City Center.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 15, tel. (+48) 32 253 98 68, www.lilouparis.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. W. KRZYŚ One stop shopping for all your gold, diamond, pearl and luxury watch needs. They stock hot brands such as Chopard, Omega, Girard Peregaux, Longines, Rado, Certina, Tissot, Calvin Klein and Davosa. They also have watch repair services and they sell accessories. A great excuse to break out that new Platinum Mastercard. They have a 2nd shop in Silesia City Center, open all week 10:00-21:00.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 15, tel. (+48) 32 253 98 39, www.krzys-jubiler.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

ART & ANTIQUES DESA This is Desa’s flagship location in Katowice and this classy show room has a variety of unique antique works of art, furniture, china, collectibles, decorative items and jewellery. Get lost in a their spacious cases of treasures from another age. The attentive and helpful art experts on hand are there to help you find the perfect piece for your private collection or that special someone. They also handle the sale and appraisal of works of art and antiques. Also located at ul. Dworcowa 13.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 5, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 22, www. desakatowice.com. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 14:00. Closed Sun. GALERIA SZTUKI FOX A unique and welcoming gallery specialising in modern art, paintings, sculpture, graphics and hand-made jewellery. Fox also offers decor services, and - somewhat surprisingly - exquisite teas. There is ample parking and the opening hours are merely a suggestion and they will easily stay open longer if you so desire.QM‑14, ul. Powstańców 10, tel. (+48) 600 08 77 21, www. galeriafox.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM EMPIK Located in the massive Silesian City Center, this is the best place in town to find English language paperbacks, guide books, a few foreign newspapers and a decent range of CDs and DVDs. One stop shopping for all your mass media wants and needs.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 22 451 03 94, www.empik.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00. KOMIS PŁYTOWY (RECORD STORE) The largest selection of vinyl we’ve ever seen in PL is hidden in this courtyard off one of Katowice’s main streets. Bargainpriced, though not extremely well-organised used CDs, as well as music-related DVDs, and posters.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 19/30A, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 45. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES M2 OUTLET The exclusive boutique which now has an outlet in Katowice’s Altus Shopping Gallery, featuring collections by Celine, Chloe, Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Balmain, Isabel Marant, Aquazzura, Loro Piana, Alexandre Birman, Kenzo, self-portrait, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Beach Bunny, Vizali, Yves Salomon, Marc Jacobs, Alexandre Vauthier, Victoria Beckham, Casadei, Gianvito Rossi, Kotur, One Teaspoon, Maison Michel and Ralph Lauren.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 511 41 07 22, www. moliera2.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. katowice.inyourpocket.com 77

Shopping GESZEFT Wonders never cease in this hip store for hipsters and lovers of divine design. We’ve never seen a place exude cool so effortlessly and everything you pick up, look at or try on makes you drool. Ease into the sleek coffee bar and grab a java drink to help you think. Wander the stylish salon which has racks of Polish designer threads, KATO-themed knick-knacks and shoulder bags, funky jewellery and even home decor. Look through art & archi books or grab a Silesion region mag while you curl up in a window seat and search for reasons to linger here a little longer. This unique boutique is one stop shopping for temporary tourists, culture vultures and fierce fashionistas alike. For misses and misters, but not to be missed.QN‑9, ul. Morcinka 23-25, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54, www.geszeft.co. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

FLOWER SHOPS MADLEN FLOWERS Flowers are wonderful, aren’t they? A perfect gift to the ones we love. Madlen Flowers offers you traditional options for that special someone, from a bouquet of flowers (just take a look at the arrangement of said bouquets and try not to be impressed!), to gifts to have around the house, like helium ballons and to the new trend of having your very own mesmerising mini-forest in a jar! What’s better, you can choose to buy online through their site. Impressive.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 12, tel. (+48) 577 97 42 79, www.madlen.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

FOOD & SWEETS NATURA Ideal for those with dietary needs, Natura sells a range of organic and gluten free health food products, honeys, coldpressed oils, teas, herbs and the like.QM‑14, ul. Kościuszki 57, tel. (+48) 601 70 70 57. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. ORGANIC FARMA ZDROWIA We’re not sure what it says about the organic farming industry and health food market when the only place to find a store like this is in a shopping mall, but here it is: a small, expensive selection of soy and gluten-free products, natural spices, oils, honeys, and other health-conscious goods.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 02 96, www.organicmarket.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS ANWA Local hand-made porcelain, glass and ceramics. They also have products from Bolesławiec, known for its ceramics.QN‑13, ul. Kochanowskiego 2 (entrance from ul.Wojewódzka), tel. (+48) 32 251 39 23. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 78 Katowice In Your Pocket

CEPELIA A larger than average version of the national folk art chain selling a range of related arts and crafts from kitsch to quintessential including some fine tapestries, wood carvings, regional dolls and even complete folk costumes for both men and women (upon request). QN‑11, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 87 44, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. KURKA BEZ PIÓRKA A charming shop promoting art by young local artists, Kurka Bez Piórka specialises in handicrafts and fiber arts, but offers a wide range of art and accessories, including graphic prints, ceramics, hand-made jewellery, home decor items, gift baskets and even paintings and illustrations all made by graduates from Katowice’s Academy of the Arts.QM‑14, ul. Powstańców 4, tel. (+48) 691 40 10 40, www.kurkabezpiorka.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. SADZA SOAP This is the ultimate must-have souvenir for the Silesian enthusiast in your family. A lump of pristine coal that you can use to clean off all that coal dust you picked up from visiting one of the region’s many mines. Ok, so it may be a novelty, but it is actually high quality natural active charcoal soap with an absolutely deft design. Yet another perfect stocking stuffer. You can purchase your very own clean coal for around 30zł. They also have shampoo or body wash for 35zł, peeling soap for 40zł and a gift box for 180zł (or mini-box set for 70zł). You can order them online, in selected museums and info points around town or visit ‘MUS Wszystkiego Dobrego’ shop on ul. Bednorza 49/1 where their products are sold. Call or email them for more info.QN‑10, www.sadzasoap.com.

HEALTH & BEAUTY LULUA This niche perfume and cologne shop fields orders from all over the world, but is located right in the heart of Katowice, just up from the Rynek. Specialising in unique artisanal scents, Lulua is lauded for their expertise and unparalleled customer service (a rarity in these parts). In addition to a fantastic array of olfactory enticements, from obscure manufacturers to top luxury brands, Lulua also offers luxury skin care products, shaving kits and men’s grooming accessories. This is an excellent place to pick up a unique gift for either sex.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 21, tel. (+48) 502 08 90 92, www.lulua.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

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Shopping

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilouâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

KATOWICE, Dworcowa 15 Street SILESIA CITY CENTER, 107 Chorzowska Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

katowice.inyourpocket.com 79 Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Shopping SILESIA CITY CENTER

MARKETS TARGOWISKO MIEJSKIE You haven’t really experienced Poland until you’ve smelt the unique fragrance of fruit, vegetables, fish and Chinese cotton that make up the main things for sale in a classic outdoor Polish market. This small market south of the train tracks comes with red and white striped awnings and a good selection of the aforementioned things for sale at bargain prices.QM‑13, Pl. Miarki, tel. (+48) 32 250 40 08, www.ztm.katowice.pl. Open 06:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS

Located mid-way between Katowice and Chorzów on the site of an old 1904 coal mine, the spectacular Silesia City Center easily trumps everything else in the region. A combined retail, gourmet and entertainment complex, the original 65,000 metre-square building (now over 86,000) was opened in 2005 and in 2011 hotel heiress Paris Hilton descended upon Silesia to open a new wing with 60 additional shops, 2 more restaurants, a dentist office, massage studio, beauty salon and additional parking, bringing the total number of spaces to 3,500 - the largest lot in Silesia. Designed to blend in with the surrounding Gothic architecture, this shopping mall has over 300 shops including Tesco, Media Markt and EMPiK superstores, a Cinema City movie complex and is even a decent place to eat thanks to the upstairs Bierhalle Restaurant, Hana - a magnificent sushi restaurant located externally in the mine’s former swimming pool and the industrial sheik Sztolnia restaurant. Other features include the preserved, red brick St Barbara’s Chapel and the remains of the tower that once lowered the miners underground - now the symbol of the commercial centre. Get there via tram numbers 0, 1, 6, 11, 19, 23 & 33 or bus no.s 662, 673, 674, 820, 830 & 840.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 107, tel. (+48) 32 605 00 00, www. silesiacitycenter.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Shoppers, be aware, as of 01 March 2018, a new law comes into effect banning Sunday trading across Poland, although it will gradually be phased in over the next two years. This means, initially, the first and last Sundays of each month will be normal trading days, but mid-month, shops will be closed (the first dates for closure are 11 & 18 March, along with 08, 15 & 22 April, 13 & 20 May and 10 & 17 June). As of 01 January 2019, shops will be open only on the last Sunday of each month. Finally, as of 01 January 2020, the full ban will take effect, meaning no shops will be open on Sundays across Poland. 80 Katowice In Your Pocket

DH SUPERSAM Katowice seems to be making up for lost time and it seems that every other month another new building or museum has a grand opening. This impressive modern glass and steel mini mall is the newest building to pop up in the city center and it certainly classes up the neighbourhood. The Supersam Shopping Centre isn’t entirely a new structure as it was literally built on the supporting steel frame of the original building from the 1930’s of the same name and reopened in 2015. Besides its superstructure, the new reinvented building has very little in common with its historical predecessor save its overarching economic mission to provide shoppers with a broader range of affordable shops, services, restaurants and outlets (100 shops and service units on over 18,000 m2) than you may find in some of the bigger shopping malls in town. Of course you will find a few International commercial stalwarts like Rossmann, Pepco plus a lot of bigger name Polish shops like Empik, Cropp and Reserved. For a full list of shops and services log on to their website or FB page.QM‑11, ul. Skargi 6, tel. (+48) 32 712 18 38, www.supersam-katowice.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. GALERIA KATOWICKA The mighty Galeria Katowicka finally shed its cranes and opened its vaulted doors to a giddy and gasping public in September 2013, in concert with the completion of the final part of the three-stage modernisation of the Katowice Train Station. Featuring over 200 shops and service points including a supermarket, several convenience stores, media and appliance outlets, all the top Polish and foreign clothing and shoe brands not to mention a slew of jewellery and interior design boutiques - the mall literally spills out onto Plac Szewczyka, which is covered in new restaurants and cafes, and includes an underground parking lot with 1,200 spaces (first 2 hours free!). Essentially the cornerstone of the modernisation and general beautification of the entire city centre, Galeria Katowicka and the new train and bus station were designed to smoothly blend into the city’s architecture and act as a convenient corridor of commerce for travellers, business professionals and locals alike. An unavoidable aspect of any visit to the city, those who weren’t around to ‘enjoy’ the old train station will probably never understand just what a blessing this commercial and transport complex really is.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 30, tel. (+48) 32 414 16 01, www. galeriakatowicka.eu. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Directory 24-HOUR PHARMACIES APTEKA BLISKO CIEBIEQN‑11, ul. Mickiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 32 258 11 11. Open 24 hours. APTEKA DR. MAXQN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 7, tel. (+48) 32 251 77 62. Open 24 hours.

24-HOUR POST OFFICE POCZTA POLSKA QN‑12, ul. Pocztowa 9, tel. (+48) 32 359 45 98, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

24-HOUR SHOPS CAREFFOURQV‑9, Al. Roździeńskiego 200, tel. (+48) 32 786 21 00, www.carrefour.pl. POD RĘKĄ QY‑9, ul. Gen. Hallera 6, tel. (+48) 32 204 88 58.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Katowice, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission. KANTOR MAX GRAND QB‑3, ul. Mickiewicza 22, tel. (+48) 604 40 17 00, www.kantorykatowice.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. MAX KANTOR QB‑3, ul. Stawowa 10, tel. (+48) 694 99 21 67. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30, Closed Sun.

COMPUTER REPAIR GLOBAL SERVICE City centre location, however, 2nd location on ul. Brynowska 39 (south of Park Kościuszki), (+48) 32 700 35 94, has English speaking staff.QQ‑11, Al. Roździeńskiego 90, tel. (+48) 32 700 35 21, www.global-serwis.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

DENTISTS DENTAL SERVICE Open 24hrs for all your middle of the night dental emergencies.QQ‑13, ul. Krasińskiego 25A, tel. (+48) 32 256 29 85, www.dentalservice.com.pl. MED CENTRUMQL‑11, Pl. Wolności 4, tel. (+48) 32 352 56 50, www.medcentrum.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun.

LAUNDRY RIZOMA LAUNDRYQN‑13, ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. (+48) 509 50 34 00, www.pralnierizoma.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. SELF-SERVICE LAUNDRY KATOWICE QO‑12, ul. św. Stanisława 8A, tel. (+48) 661 52 22 88. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. NW

LOCKSMITHS EXPRES Found in all major shopping centres in Katowice, the perfect place to duplicate keys, repair shoes, buy a range of batteries, stamps and souvenirs.QM‑12, ul. 3-go Maja, tel. (+48) 32 790 44 38, www.e-expres.pl.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 59 99 99 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below. The emergency room in PL is called SOR, and should only be visited if it is really necessary. In less urgent crises, we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the long queues in Polish hospitals. CHILDREN’S EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR) Qul. Medyków 16, tel. (+48) 32 207 17 88. EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR) QK‑13, ul. Raciborska 26, tel. (+48) 32 420 01 00 ext.163. LUX MED QN‑10, ul. Sokolska 29, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.luxmed.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. katowice.inyourpocket.com 81

Hotels DIAMENT SPODEK QO‑10, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 606 85 85, www. hotelediament.pl. 30 rooms (1 apartment). U6K HCDF hhh EURORESIDENCE HOME APARTAMENT QM‑13, ul. Kopernika 6, tel. (+48) 32 608 42 52, www. euroresidence.com.pl. 25 apartments. PUL6H Dw HOTEL KATOWICE QN‑11, Al. Korfantego 9, tel. (+48) 32 258 82 81, www. hotel-katowice.com.pl. 161 Total rooms. U6KH hh

Q Hotel Plus Katowice

Katowice, and Silesia in general, is first and foremost a business destination, though it is quickly becoming a premier event hub for festivals, concerts, conferences and sports competitions. Reflecting this fact is an ever expanding accommodation market, with the lion’s share going to business-class hotels. Still, you can find some decent low-price options, especially if you’re willing to lay your head a bit further from the action. On our website - katowice.inyourpocket.com - we list scores of accommodation options in and around Silesia, with full reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide don’t allow us to include all of that content here, but below we provide a list of the most reputable accommodation options in Katowice and the surrounding region. Sleep well.

IN KATOWICE

IBIS BUDGET KATOWICE CENTRUM QP‑11, Al. Roździeńskiego 18, tel. (+48) 32 350 50 40, www.ibisbudget.com. 124 Total rooms. PU6 h MONOPOL QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5, tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. 108 rooms (3 apartments). PUL6KHCDF hhhhh NOVOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QP‑11, Al. Roździeńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 32 200 44 44, www.accorhotels.com. 300 Total rooms. PU6K HCDF hhhh PARK INN BY RADISSON KATOWICE QK‑3, ul. Bytkowska 1A, tel. (+48) 32 721 11 11, www. parkinn.com/hotel-katowice. 168 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6KHDF hhhh PATIO ZAJAZD Qul. Kościuszki 352, tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www. patiozajazd.pl. 22 Total rooms. 6WK

B&B HOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QM‑11, ul. Sokolska 4, tel. (+48) 32 700 50 88, www. hotelbb.pl. 105 Total rooms. PXU6H hh

Q HOTEL PLUS KATOWICE QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 12, tel. (+48) 32 740 99 40, www.qhotels.pl. 121 rooms (1 apartment). PUK HF hhhh

CAMPANILE QQ‑16, ul. Sowińskiego 48, tel. (+48) 32 205 50 50, www.campanile.com. 77 Total rooms. PU6KH hh

SENATOR QQ‑12, ul. 1 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 32 258 60 81, www. senator.katowice.pl. 49 rooms (1 apartment). L6K H hhh

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT KATOWICE CITY CENTER QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 93 50, www.marriott.com. 151 rooms (1 apartment). PU LKHF hhhh

SILESIAN HOTEL QUALITY AND ECONOMY QO‑16, ul. Szybowcowa 1A, tel. (+48) 32 606 88 00, www.silesianhotel.pl. 200 rooms (8 apartments). PU 6KHCD hhh

DIAMENT PLAZA KATOWICE QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 9, tel. (+48) 32 746 70 00, www. hotelediament.pl. 45 rooms (1 apartment). PUL 6KHF hhhh 82 Katowice In Your Pocket

VIENNA HOUSE EASY ANGELO KATOWICE QM‑10, ul. Sokolska 24, tel. (+48) 32 783 81 00, www. viennahouse.com. 203 rooms (17 apartments). PX UKHDF hhhh

Hotels IN CHORZÓW DIAMENT ARSENAL PALACE KATOWICE/ CHORZÓW QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 84 84, www.hotelediament.pl. 115 rooms (1 apartment). UL6KHCDFw hhhh DIAMENT BELLA NOTTE KATOWICE/CHORZÓW QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 82 82, www.hotelediament.pl. 45 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6KHCDFw hhh

AROUND UPPER SILESIA DESILVA INN KATOWICE AIRPORT Qul. Równoległa 2, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 393 88 88, www.desilva.pl. 77 Total rooms. PU6KHF hhh DIAMENT ECONOMY GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 42, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 18 21, www.hotelediament.pl. 27 Total rooms. UL6K hhh DIAMENT PLAZA GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 30, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 721 70 00, www.hotelediament.pl. 85 Total rooms. PL6KH hhhh DIAMENT VACANZA SIEMIANOWICE ŚLĄSKIE Qul. Olimpijska 4, Siemianowice Śląskie, tel. (+48) 32 606 83 83, www.hotelediament.pl. 44 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6KH hhh DIAMENT ZABRZE Qul. 3 Maja 122A, Zabrze (Zaborze Południe), tel. (+48) 32 721 10 00, www.hotelediament.pl. 58 Total rooms. L6KHDF hhh HOTEL RYCERSKI (KNIGHTS HOTEL) Qul. Będzińska 53, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotel-rycerski.pl. 26 rooms (1 apartment). KH hhh HOTEL SZAFRAN Qul. Będzińska 82, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 784 31 00, www.hotelszafran.pl. 115 rooms (7 apartments). PX U6KHF hhhh IBIS KATOWICE - ZABRZE Qul. Jagiellońska 4, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 777 70 00, www.ibis.com. 114 Total rooms. PKH hh M HOTEL SOSNOWIEC Qul. Wojska Polskiego 199, Sosnowiec, tel. (+48) 32 363 63 00, www.mhotelsosnowiec.pl. 55 Total rooms. UL6KHF hhh

Restaurant in Noma Residence - Promnice Hunting Lodge

QUBUS HOTEL GLIWICE Qul. Dworcowa 27, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 300 11 00, www.qubushotel.com. 89 rooms (4 apartments). PU6KH hhh ROYAL Qul. Matejki 10, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 400 00 00, www. hotelroyal.com.pl. 50 Total rooms. PXTLKH DF hhh WILLA AMBASADOR Qul. 3 Maja 78, Zabrze (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 32 271 50 44, www.mosir.zabrze.pl. 28 Total rooms. PK

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Street Register 1 Maja Q/W-12 3 Maja M-12; N-12 11 Listopada Z-11 73 Pułku Piechoty R/T-20 Agnieszki K-5/6 Akacjowa I-1/8; N-1/2 Akademicka Q-12; R-12 Al. Bojow. o Wolność i Demokrację A-4 Al. Fali G-4/5; H-5 Al. Gwiazd G-3/4; H-3 Al. Górnośląska Q-16 Al. Harcerska D/F-3; E-2; F-2 Al. Korfantego L-2/O-7/9 Al. Ks. Pobożnego E-5/6; F-5 Al. Leśna I-3/6; J-2/6 Al. Niepodległości V-7; W-7 Al. Piastów F-7; G-7/8 Al. Planetarium H-3; I-2/3; J-1/2; K-1 Al. Roździeńskiego N-10/Z-5 Al. Różana F-5; G-5 Al. Spacerowa E-5; F-5/6; G-6 Al. Sportowa G-5/6 Al. Targowa J-2 Al. Widokowa H-1 Al. Wojska Polskiego B-5; C-3/5; D-3 Al. Wycieczkowa E-1; F-1 Al. Śląskiej D-4/5; E-5/6 Al. Żyrafy G-6/7; H-6 Albatrosów K-18; L-18 Aldera A-8/9; B-9 Alfreda L-3/4 Alpejska P-16 Andrzeja L-12; M-12/13 Anioła I-10; J-10 Armii Krajowej A-7; B-7 Astrów B-3; M-14/15 Babiego Lata X-7 Badury D-8 Bagienna R/V-11; V/Y-12; Y-13; Z-13 Baildona J/L-8; J-9; K-7 Bankowa A-1; B-1; O-11/12; P-11 Barbary K-14/15 Bardowskiego E-11 Barlickiego D-12 Batorego M-13 Bednarska Z-10 Biniszkiewicza T-7; U-7 Bisk. Bogedaina B-1 Bocheńskiego F-14; G-11/14; H-9/11 Bocianów K-17/18; L-18 Boczna I-15 Bogucicka R-11/12 Boh. Monte Cassino S-8/9; T-9/12 Bojanowskiego A-20 Borysa D-8 Bożogrobców J-7/8; K-7/8 Braci Mniejszych C-20; D-20 Braci Stawowych U-11 Braci Wieczorków B-20 Braci Woźniaków V-19; W-19 Bracka H-8/9 Brata Alberta P-13 Bratków M-15 Broniewskiego J-1; K-1; N-8/9 Brygadzistów E-16; F-15/16 Bryniczna X-2/3 Brynowska I-18/20 Brzoskwiniowa K-7 Brzozowa P-7/9; R-1; S-1 Budowlana R/T-6; R/T-7 Bugli I-16 Burowiecka T-10/11; U-10/11

Bytkowska K-1/5 Bytomska K-4; L-4 Błękitna L-8 Cedrowa O-6/7; P-6/7 Ceglana L/N-16; M-17; N-17 Chełkowskiego O-11 Chocimska A-6/7 Chodkiewicza B-7 Cholewy C-8 Chopina A-2; B-1/2 Chorzowska D-4; /L/N-10 Chrobrego D-5/6; E-5/6; I/K-1 Chromika U-12 Chrześcijan Baptystów R-10 Chłodna X-7; Y-7 Cicha L-8/9 Ciemały C-8 Cietrzewi L-19 Cisowa N-6/7 Cmentarna A-3/4 Cynkowa S-12; T-12 Cyranek L-19 Czajek K-19 Czapli L-18 Czarnego F-6/7 Czarnieckiego R-12 Czecha R-12 Czechowa Y-17 Czoika C-8; D-8 Czyżyków J-19/20 Damrota B-1/2; O-14/15; P-12/14 Daszyńskiego K-3; L-3 Dekerta M-4 Dobra L-8/9 Dobrego Urobku F-15/16; G-14/16 Dobrowolskiego Q-10/11 Domina B-3/4 Drozdów J/L-20; J-19 Drzewna Q-12 Drzymały J-1; M-13/14 Dudka C-8 Dudy-Gracza P-11/12; Q-11/12 Dulęby D-9/11; E-10 Dunikowskiego M-9 Dworcowa N-12 Dworska I-19; J-19 Dygacza Q-16 Dyrekcyjna N-12 Dytrycha X-6 Działkowa A-5 Dziewięciu z Wujka G-17; H-17 Dzięciołów J/L-20 Dąbrowskiego N-13; O-13 Dąbrowskiej G-19 Dębowa C-3/4; I-8; J-6/8; K-6 Długa A-6/7; B-7; Q-12 Dłuskiego K-14 Emilii Plater L-4 Fabryczna P/R-1 Filarowa F-19/20 Fiołków L-15; M-15 Fitelberga I-18; J-18 Fliegera K-14 Floriana R-12/13 Franciszkańska B-5 Francuska O-12/15 Gabrieli Zapolskiej G-19 Gajowa C-1 Gallusa H-16; I-16/17 Garbarska Y-17; Z-17 Gawronów J/L-18 Gałczyńskiego I-18; J-18/19

Free like a bird with a view above Plac Wolności (p.28)

88 Katowice In Your Pocket

Courtesy of Katowice City Council

Gen. Dąbrowskiego A-1/2; B-1 Gen. Hallera W-7/8; X-8/9; Y-9 Gen. le Ronda T/W-7 Gen. Pułaskiego Q-13/14; R-13/14 Gen. Sikorskiego P/R-14 Gen. Sowińskiego O/Q-16; O-15; P-15 Gen. Szeptyckiego P-14; Q-14/15 Gen. Zajączka L-14/15 Gilów K-20 Giszowiecka Y-17 Gliwicka B/E-8 / L-11/12 Gnieźnieńska A-7; M-5; N-5 Goeppert-Mayer K-11/12; L-12 Gospodarcza S-14/16 / Y-15 Gołby G-20 Grabowa M-2; N-1/2; O-7; P-7 Grabskiego D-11 Graniczna P-13/15; Q-12/13/15/16 Grażyńskiego M-8/10; N-10 Grundmanna K-10/11; L-9/10 Gruszowa K-7 Grzegorzka V-6/7 Grzyśki E-20; F-20 Grządziela B/D-8 Góreckiego O/Q-10 Górna C-1; P-9 Górnicza B-5; P-12 Górnika N-8 Górnośląska B-1 Głowackiego A-5; L-14/15; Q-1 Hadyny C/E-19; E-20 Hałubki S-11/12 Herberta G-19; H-19 Hercena K-15 Hetmańska C-3; D-3 Hoppego P-7/8; Q-8 Inwalidzka A-8/9; B-7/8 Iłłakowiczówny N-7/8 Jabłoniowa K-7 Jagiellońska A-1; M/O-13 Janasa I-10/11; J-10 Janowska Y-16/17 Japońska A-20 Jaracza G-19 Jasińskiego A-7 Jaskółek L-19/20 Jasna L-8/9 Jaworowa M-1/2; N-2 Jedności N-1 Jemiołuszek J-19/20 Jerzyków L-19/20 Jesienna X-7 Jesionowa O-7 Jodłowa L-4 Joliot-Curie H-19/20 Jutrzenki A-19 Józefowska K-3/4; L-4/5; M-5/7 Kadecka E-1 Kaktusów O-7 Kamienna L-12 Kanarków K-20 Kapliczna X-2 Karbowa O-15; P-15 Karola R-12 Karoliny Q-8/9 Karpacka R-9 Karpińskiego B-1; C-1 Karłowicza L-4; M-4 Kasprzaka O-1 Kasztanowa M-2 Kaszubska B-1; C-1 Katowicka B-1/2 / X-1 Kawek K-18/19 Kempki D-8 Kijowska B-19/20; C-18/20; D-18 Kilińskiego A-2/3; L-13/15; R-1 Klimzy A-4/5; B-4 Klonowa N-2; O-7/9 Kluzika H-18/19 Kobylińskiego O-13 Kochanowskiego M-13; N-13 Kochłowicka B/G-13; F/J-14; J-15 Koczeby C-8 Kolejowa R-1 Kolibrów K-18/19; L-18/19 Kolista U-20 Kollmana A-9/12; B-12/13 Kolonia Joanny A-8/9 Kolonia Pekin X-2/4 Kolońska F-10/12; G-10 Kombajnistów E-17/18; F-16/18 Konckiego M-13/14 Koniarkowej R-10 Konna X-8 Konopnickiej B-1; C-1; P-1/3; Q-2/3

Kopalniana Q-11; R-11 Kopernika A-2; L-13; M-13 Korczaka Y-9; Z-7/9 Kormoranów K-18; L-18 Kossak-Szczuckiej G-19; H-19/20 Kossutha F-10 Koszarowa J-13/14; K-13 Kosów I-20; J-20 Kotlarza K-5/6; L-5/6 Kowalska Q-9/10 Kozielska K-13; L-13 Kościuszki B/D-1 / N-12/13 Krahelskiej Q-13 Krakusa R-10 Krasińskiego P/R-13 Kraszewskiego P-9; Q-9 Krawczyka Y-16 Kredytowa E-19/20 Krucza A-19/20; B-18/19; C-18 Krzywa B-1/3; M-13 Krzyżowa K-6 Króla Jagiełły F-7 Królowej Jadwigi N-13/14 Kręta B-5/6; C-6; Q-10; R-10 Ks. bisk. Adamskiego J-13/14; K-13 Ks. bisk. Bednorza Z-10 Ks. bisk. Domina M-15; N-15 Ks. bisk. Gawliny K-14 Ks. bisk. Krasickiego A-2; B-2 Ks. bisk. Kubiny J-14; K-14 Ks. Blachnickiego Q-7/8 Ks. Bończyka Q-9 ks. bpa Szurmana D-20; E-20 Ks. Brodatego F-6; G-6/7 Ks. Czempiela M-15; N-15 Ks. Ficka Y-17; Z-17 Ks. Gałeczki B-2/5; C-5/8 Ks. kard. Kominka K-13/14 Ks. kard. Wyszyńskiego N-7/8 Ks. Maślińskiego P-12; Q-12 Ks. Poniatowskiego K-14; L-14 Ks. Popiełuszki V-7/8; W-8 Ks. Siwka U-5/7; V-6/7 Ks. Skowrońskiego Q-13 Ks. Szafranka O-13 Ks. Ścigały Q-9/11 Ks. Żmija I-8/9; J-9 Książęca D-20; E-20 Kujawska S-9/10 Kukułek K-20; L-19/20 Kulika V/X-19 Kupca G-9/10 Kurpiowska S-8/9 Kwiatkowskiego C-11; D-11/12 Kępowa G-18; H-18/19; I-19 Ledóchowskiego J-11; K-11 Lelewela G-9 Lelków K-18/19; L-19 Leopolda Q-9; R-8/9; S-7/8; T-7 Letnia X-7 Leśna M-1/2; N-1 Leśnego Potoku Z-19/20 Ligocka E/G-19; E-20; G-18; H-17; I-17 Ligonia N-14; O-14 Limanowskiego B-7 Lipowa I-8; N-1 Lisa F-9 Literatów G-20 Lodowa X-7; Y-7 Lompy N-13/15; O-13 Lubeckiego-Druckiego P-12/13 Lubiny H-19; I-19 Lubuska S-9/10 Ludowa A-20 Ludwika Q-8/9; R-8 Lwowska B/D-1; B-2; Z-15 Macieja J-10/11 Mackiewicza V-8; W-8 Majora Dobrzańskiego "Hubala" W-6/7 Mamoka C-8 Marcina J-10 Marcinkowskiego U-11 Mariacka N-12; O-12 Markiefki Q-9/10; R-10/11 Matejki M-12; P-1 Mała B-19 Meteorologów L-17/18; M-17 Miarki Q-12 Michejdy F-11/12; G-12 Miedziana V-8/9 Mielęckiego N-12; O-12 Mieroszewskiego P-9; Q-9 Mieszka I E-7 Mikołowska I-15/18 / M-12 Mikusińskiego K/M-5; L-6

Street Register

It’s all about the angles in the cultural zone (p.30). Andrzej, Adobe Stock Milowicka W-2/7 Misjonarzy Oblatów MN M-8; N-8/9 Międzyblokowa T-7 Miłosza I-19; J-19 Modelarska M-4/6 Modrzejewskiej H-19 Modrzewiowa P-8/9 Morawa Z-10 Morawska R-10 Morcinka J-1; M-9; N-9 Morelowa K-7 Morwowa O-8; P-8 Mościckiego C-1/2; E-11/12; F-11 Mroźna Y-7 Murckowska S-10/16; T-16/18 Musialika C-8 Mysłowicka R-1/2; S-2/3; T-3 Myśliwska P-13 Młodzieżowa B-2/3; C-2/3 Młyńska B-6; C-6; M-12; N-12 Nadgórników Q-10 Nad Osiekiem K-13 Nad Strumieniem A-20 Na Obrzeżu P-7; Q-7/8 Narcyzów M-14/15 Narutowicza J-11; K-11 Nałkowskiej Y-16; Z-16 Niedurnego T-12 Niepodległości K-1 Nizinna B-20 Normy Q-9; R-9 Norwida M-6/7 Nowa R-10 nowa droga C-11 Nowotarska R-9/10 Nowowiejskiego L-6 Nowy Czekaj U-4/5 Nowy Świat M-5 Objazdowa Z-10 Obroki B-9; C-8/10; F-9/10 Obrońców Poczty Gdańskiej X-4; Y-4 Obrońców Westerplatte W-10/11 / Z-10 Odrowążów Y-17 Ogińskiego J-1 Ogrodowa B-18/19 Okrzei M-9; N-9 Okrężna F-15/16; M-1; N-1 Olimpijska N-9; O-9/10 Ondraszka I-10/11 Opolska K/M-11; K-10; L-10 Ordona O-9; P-9 Orkana H-20 Orzeszkowej G-19 Osikowa O-7; P-7 Ossowskiego E-12; F-11/12 Oswalda Kozioła M-6; N-6 Owocowa N-6/7; O-5/6 Oświęcimska L-4 Paderewskiego C-1/3; Q-12/15 Panewnicka A-20; B-20 Parczewskiego H-19 Parkowa D-1/3; I-16/17; J-17 Patalonga L-3/4 Pańki O-12; P-12 PCK L-14; M-14 Pelikanów K-18; L-18 Piaskowa S-11/12 Piastowska N-11; O-11 Piastów E/G-7; E/G-8 Piechy B-8; C-8 Pietrusińskiego L-3/4 Pilotów O-15; P-15

Piotra Q-9 Piotrowicka D-20; E-20 Pitery V-6 Piękna I-16/17; J-15/16 Pl. AKS C-3 Pl. Alfreda L-2 Pl. Kilara O-10; P-10 Pl. Kopernika A-2 Pl. Matejki A-2 Pl. Miarki M-13; N-13 Pl. Podwyższenia Krzyża E-7 Pl. Przyjaciół z Miszkolca M-10 Pl. Reagana F-7 Pl. Szewczyka M-12 Pl. Wolności L-11/12; M-12 Pl. Wyzwolenia Y-16/17; Z-16 Planty Śląskie I-1 Plebiscytowa M-15; N-13/15; P-3/4 Pocztowa N-12 Podchorążych M-14 Podgórna N-13 Podhalańska R-8/9; S-8/9 Pod Mły W-6 Pod Młynem W/Y-6 Poetów F-20; G-20 Pokoju G-10; H-9/10 Pokładowa F-19 Pola I-15/16; J-15 Powstańców O-14; P-14 Powstańców Śląskich X-4; Y-4 Połomińska H-18; I-18 Pośpiecha H-10; I/K-11; I-10 Promenada Gen. Ziętka F-3/4; G-4; H-5/6 Promienna K-3/4; L-3 Prosta P-13 Prowansalska Q-16 Prusa J-1 Przekopowa G-15; H-14/15 Przemysłowa P-13 Przodowników F-16/18; G-16 Przy Gazowni A-3 Przygraniczna X-4; Y-3/4 Przyklinga H-20 Pszczyńska T-18/20 Pukowca F/H-10 Puławska R-9/10 Pętla Słoneczna N-7/8; O-7/8 Raciborska J/L-13; K-12 Racławicka A-5/6; B-5; T-12 Radomska A-19; B-19/20 Rataja E-11; F-11 Redena C-1/2 Reja Q-12 Rejtana Q-12 Relaksowa H-13; I-13 Reymonta O-13/14 Rochowiaka K-14 Rodańska P-16/17 Rolna I-20 Rondo Frydrychowicza D-6 Rondo Gen. Fieldorfa "Nila" O-15 rondo Gen. Ziętka N-10 Rondo księdza bisk. Jeża C-5 Rondo księdza Kani J-8 Rondo księdza Michalskiego L-18 Rondo księdza Pawlika T-7 Rondo marszałka Wolnego E-7/8 Rondo Niebieskich Mistrzów C-7 Rondo Nikoli Tesli F-19 Rondo Olejniczaka D-11/12 Rondo Pietera O-11 Rondo Policji Województwa Śląskiego O-15

Rondo Stryji E-6/7 Rondo Sybiraków E-6 Rondo Sławika G-7 Rondo Zenktelera P-15 Rondo Zesłańców Sybiru T-8 Rondo Śląskiej D-11; E-11 Roosevelta C-1 Roździeńska W-11; X/Z-10; X-11 Rożanowicza K-3; L-3 Rybnicka O-14 Rycerska D-1; E-1; I-16 Rymarska Y-16 Rymera L-14; M-14 Rynek N-12 Rysia M-6 Ryszarda R-10/11 Ryszki A-4; B-4 Rzeczna A-20 Równoległa Q-13; R-13 Różana A-3; B-3; L-15; M-15 Rębaczy F-19; G-19 Sadzawki S-1/2 Saint Etienne T-11; U-11 Sandomierska R-9 Saturnowska X-1/2 Siemianowicka I/K-1; T-5/7; U-5 Sienkiewicza A-1; N-13/15 Siewna Y-9; Z-9 Sikorek J-20 Skalna K-14; L-14 Skiby I-18/19 Skowronków J-19/20 Skrzeka F-9 Skrzypka O-9 Składowa O-1 Skłodowskiej-Curie L-13/14; M-13 Sobieskiego A-1/2; L-11/12 Sokolska L-11; M-10/12; N-8/10 Sportowa I-7/8; J-7/8 Srokowiecka R-1/2; S-2/3 Stacyjna V-7; W-7 Staffa G-19/20 Stalmacha L-13/14; M-14; Q-1/3 Staromiejska N-12; O-12 Starowiejska O-12 Staszica T-11/12 Stawowa M-11/12 Strażacka M-4/5 Stroma F-17 Strzałowa E-16/17; F-16/17 Strzelecka K-13/14 Studziena X-3 Studzienna J-7; X-2/3 Stwosza L-16; M-13/16 Styczniowa T/V-7 Styczyńskiego M-13 Stęślickiego L-9; M-8/9 Szadoka F-18 Szafirowa A-19 Szczecińska C-3/5; K/M-6 Szczygłów K-19/20; L-19/20 Szeligiewicza L-14; M-14/15 Szeroka U-11/12 Szkolna N-1; O-11/12 Szojdy A-19; B-19 Szosowa X-2; Y-2 Szpaków J-19/20 Szpitalna J-7 Szronowa X-7; Y-7 Szwedzka U-8/9 Szybikowa X-1; Y-1 Szybowa I-15/16 Sądowa L-11/12; M-12 Sławka E-10 Słoneczna K/N-7; X-3 Słowackiego R-1 Słowiańska E-1; R-9; S-9 Słowików I/K-20 Tarasa Szewczenki I-10 Techników T/V-8; V-7 Telewizyjna K-1; L-1/2; M-2 Teresy H-18/19 Tokarska G-10 Tomasza F-19/20 Topolowa N-2; O-7/9 Trafalczyka N-1; O-1 Transportowców X-14; Y-14 Trasa Renców B-7; C/F-8; C-7; F-9; G-9 Trzech Stawów S-14 Trzyniecka A-6 Tuwima G-20; H-19/20 Twarda A-20; B-20 Tyniecka A-6 Tysiąclecia C-4/6; D/F-6; D-5; E/G-7 Uniwersytecka O-10/11; P-11

Upadowa E-14; F-13/14 Urbanowicza A-3 Urocza A-19 Ułańska C/E-4; E-5 Wajdy P-8/9; Q-8/9 Walecznych K-3/4 Waleriana S-11/12 Wandy Y-9; Z-9 Warszawska N-12 Wawelska N-12 Waxmana C-7 Wende Z-13 Widok L-8/9; M-8/9 Wiejska J-7 Wielkiego A-1 Wieniawskiego A-7; B-7/8 Wiertnicza S-7; T-7/8 Wierzbowa M-2; O-8/9; P-7/8 Wilcze Kąty H-17/18 Wilimowskiego L-13 Willowa A-3 Wincklera N-10/11 Wiosenna A-4/5; B-4; W-7; X-7/8 Witosa D-11; E-9/11 Wiązowa P-8/9 Wiślana S-9/10 Wiśniowa C-3/4; F-9/10 Wodna P-12 Wodospady F-20; G-19/20 Wojewódzka N/P-13 Wolnego I-10 Wolskiego G-9/10 Wozaków F-19/20; G-19 Woźniczki I-19/20 Wrocławska R-10; S-9/10; T-9 Wróblewskiego K-1; Q-9; R-9/10 Wróbli K-19 Wrębowa H-15 Wschodnia H-1; I-1 Wybickiego C-2 Wycieczkowa F-1/2; G-1 Wyplera F-10; G-9/10 Wyrobiskowa V-4/5 Wysockiego B-7 Wyspiańskiego A-6/7; T-11/12 Wąska I-8/9 Węglana R-10 Węglowa J-8 Węzłowiec H-1; I-1 Zabrska L-11; M-11 Zacisze O-13 Zakopiańska R-10; S-10 Zamułkowa I-10 Zapolskiej G-19; H-19 Zapłocie B-6; C-6 Zarębskiego J-10/11 Załęska F-17/19; G-16/18 Załęska Hałda E-14; F-14 Zegadłowicza H-19; I-19/20 Zgody F-18; G-18 Zgrzebnioka C-3/4; K-17/18; L-18/20 Zielona C-3/4; M-2; N-2 Zimorodków K-19; L-19 Zjednoczenia A-2 Złota H-8; I-7/8; J-6/7; X-3 Łabędzia K-18 Łokietka R-12 Łużycka R-9; S-9 Łączna U-11/12 Łąkowa B-4 Ślusarska F-9; G-9 Śniegowa Y-7 Średnia B-6; C-6; F-20 Środkowa J-19 Św. Anny B-4/5; Y-17 Św. Barbary A-5; B-5 Św. Huberta I-20 Św. Jacka P-13 Św. Jana N-12 Św. Jana Pawła II E-8/9 Św. Pawła O-12; P-12 Św. Stanisława O-12 Żelazna K-10/11; L-9/10 Żniwna W-7 Żogały Q-10; R-10 Żołnierzy Wyklętych Q-14 Żwirki i Wigury A-3; L-13; M-13/14 Żwirowa U-3/4 Żółkiewskiego T-12

katowice.inyourpocket.com 89

Index 27th floor 69 Absurdalna 69 AïOLI Inspired by Katowice 61 Amfora Restaurant & Cocktail Bar 63 Amnezja 69 Anwa 78 Bar a Boo 59 Bar Monopol 54 B&B Hotel Katowice Centrum 82 Biała Małpa 69 Biała Małpa Mexico 62 Bierhalle 54 Bistro & Cafe Krystynka wraca z Wiednia 54 bistro & cafe zielnik 54 Bohema 55 Botanika 54 Break the Code Escape Room 74 Browariat 73 Buddha 53 Bujna 54 BUŁKĘS 55 Burgundia Wine Tastings & Wine Shop 73, 76 BWA Contemporary Art Gallery 29 Cadenza 63 Cafe Byfyj 38 Campanile 82 Centrum Zimbardo 38 Cepelia 78 C'est Si Bon 51 Chata z Zalipia 63 City Information Office 25 City Pub 70 City Rock 49 Ciuciubabka 75 Cloud Scraper 28 Cooler Club & Food 72 Courtyard by Marriott Katowice City Center 82 Cristallo 59 Cukiernia Europejska 44 Cybermachina 70 Desa 77 DeSilva Inn Katowice Airport 83 DH Supersam 80 Diament Arsenal Palace Katowice/Chorzów 83 Diament Bella Notte Katowice/Chorzów 83 Diament Economy Gliwice 83 Diament Plaza Gliwice 83 Diament Plaza Katowice 82 Diament Spodek 82 Diament Vacanza Siemianowice Śląskie 83 Diament Zabrze 83 Drzwi Zwane Koniem 70 Dzień i Noc 55 Ekspedycja Coffeehouse 44

90 Katowice In Your Pocket

Elka Cableway 35 El Mexicano 62 Empik 77 EuroResidence Home Apartament 82 Fabryka Porcelany 33 Flyspot Katowice 75 Galeria Katowicka 80 Galeria Sztuki Fox 77 Geszeft 78 Hana Sushi 49 Hipnoza Jazz Club 73 Hospoda 50 Hotel Katowice 82 Hotel Rycerski 83 Hotel Szafran 83 Hurry Curry 49 Ibis Budget Katowice Centrum 82 Ibis Katowice - Zabrze 83 I Coal You 77 India Garden Restaurant And Catering 53 Industrial Ethnography Museum 38 INQbator 72 International Congress Centre 31 ISTO 65 Kato 71 Katowice Historical Museum 27 Katowice Miasto Ogrodów 28 Kawiarnia Fotograficzna 44 Kawosz 44 KluboGaleria SARP 56 Klub Pomarańcza 72 Klub Prime 72 Kofeina Mini 56 Kolejkowo - A Wonderful World in Miniature 75 Komis Płytowy 77 Kondrat Wina Wybrane 76 Kręgielnia Galaktyka 74 Królestwo 73 Kurka Bez Piórka 78 Kyoto Sushi 50 La Cantina 61 La Petite Bretagne 45 Laserhouse 75 Legal Cakes 45 Len Arte 60 Lilou 77 Lily Nail Spa 75 Little Hanoi...and more! 50 Longway 71 Lulua 78 M2 Outlet 77 Madlen Flowers 78 Mad Mick 52 M Hotel Sosnowiec 83 Monopol 45, 82 moodro bistro & cafe 45 moodro restaurant 65 Mr. Fox Pub & Resto 71

Multikino 74 Museum of the Duke’s Brewery in Tychy 70 Nasze Bao 50 Natura 78 NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra 31 NOVO 60 Novotel Katowice Centrum 82 Ogrodzieniec Castle 41 Old Cuban 71 Organic Farma Zdrowia 78 Pan de Rossa 56 Park Inn by Radisson Katowice 82 Pasibus 52 Patio 56 Patio Park 57 Patio Zajazd 57, 82 Plac Wolności 28 Prodiż Bistro 60 Prodiż Nero Restaurant 33 PTTK Katowice 25 Pub Kontynuacja 72 Q Hotel Plus Katowice 82 Qubus Hotel Gliwice 83 Queens 73 Rajzefiber 73 Restauracja Max 57 Restauracja Pod Drewnianym Bocianem 58 Restauracja Sunlight 51 Restauracja Tamarynd 58 Restauracja Vacanza 58 Royal 83 Rycerski 64 Rynek 26 Sadza Soap 78 Senator 82 Shrimp House 61 Silesia City Center 80 Silesian Freedom & Solidarity

Centre 32 Silesian Hotel Quality and Economy 82 Silesian Museum 31 Silesian Parliament 27 SilesiaTrip.pl 25 Śląska Prohibicja 38 SmaQ Food & Wine 64 Souvlaki Bar 52 Spiż 73 Spodek 30 Steakhouse Da Da 58 Synergia. Dobre Miejsce 45 Sztolnia. Chleb. Mięso. Wino 51 Targowisko Miejskie 80 Tatiana 59 Termy Rzymskie 75 Thai Sabai 75 Thali House by Masala House 53 Ul. Mariacka 26 Upojeni 72 Valley of Three Ponds 32 Via Toscana 62 Vienna House Easy Angelo Katowice 82 Visiting Auschwitz 42 WHISKY & SPIRIT HOUSE 77 Wiejska Chatka 64 Willa Ambasador 83 Wilson Shaft Gallery 37 W. Krzyś 77 WunderBAR 52 Zaklęty Czardasz 52 Żarki 41 Zdrowa Krowa 52 Zielony Most 54 Zillmann Tea & Coffee 38 Złoty Róg 64 Żółte Drzwi 72 Zoo 35 Żurownia 65

FEATURES INDEX Barbórka COP24 Currency Exchange Decoding the Menu Health & Emergency Hot Beer? Jewish Katowice Katowice for Beer Lovers Language Smarts Market Values Street Art Sunday Shopping Ban Tourist Info & Tours Transport Tools/Apps Vodka Translator

37 10 81 50 81 67 28 69 16 16 29 76 25 13 67

Gliwice ul. Ceglarska 35 www.queensnightclub.pl Open: 18:00 - 05:00 tel. 032/ 305 30 20

American Bar

Erotic Show Dance

Go-Go Dance

We invite you to Queens nightclub. Discretion is of our highest concern, as immediately evidenced by our parking lot. The interior design of the rooms and equipment complement each other to create an intimate, erotic atmosphere. We dedicate the greatest care to the cleanliness of the club. Your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Genießen Sie in angenehmer Atmosphäre, die perfekt gemixten Drinks unserer Bar, die prickelnde Erotikshow der QUEENS - Girl´s auf der Bühne, während Sie sich entspannt in einem der vielen Sofas zurücklehnen. Sie erleben eine Tabledance Show der Extraklasse, die perfekt aufeinander abgestimmt ist. Die Sound & Lichttechnik im QUEENS Striptease Club unterstreicht dieses noch. Geniessen Sie einen “Private Dance”, den persönlichen Striptease, nur für Sie mit einer Tänzerin Ihrer Wahl. Die Tänzerinnen des Nachtclub´s, verstehen es Erotik, Verführung, Varieté und Akrobatik miteinander zu verbinden. Ob Junggesellenabschied, Firmenfeier, Geburtstag, Vereinsfeier oder Abschlußfeier, der Tabledance Club ist der ideale Ort um einen unvergesslichen Abend zu erleben und tabulos zu feiern. “Dich erwartet eine exzellente Tabledance - Erotikshow” Wir freuen uns auf euren Besuch Euer QUEENS - Team

THE BEST PLACE FOR SHOPPING

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Silesia City Center, 107 Chorzowska St, Katowice www.silesiacitycenter.com.pl

Katowice In Your Pocket - November 2018 - February 2019

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Katowice: Industrial at Heart