Poznań In Your Pocket City Guide 2022 by Poland In Your Pocket

Maps

Sightseeing

Arts

Activities

Dining

Poznań City Guide

No. 56, Summer 2022

River Runs Through It: Exploring the Warta

p.6

Jeżyce: Poznań’s Coolest Neighbourhood

p.28

Cracking the Enigma Code

p.46

in association with

Nightlife

Contents

Poznań Feature

Exploring the Warta p.8

Morning mist meandering down the Warta River. | Photo by Jakub Kalinowski

Introducing Poznań

p.06 p.07

Activities & Recreation

Exploring the Warta Regional Dishes

p.08 p.59

Dining

Transport Sightseeing

p.12

How to Use This Guide

Features

Essential Poznań Old Town Walking Tour Śródka & Ostrów Tumski Jeżyce Łazarz

Art, History & Culture

Art Tourism Museums 1918–19 Wielkopolska Uprising Cracking the Enigma Code 1956 Uprising

p.15 p.16 p.24 p.28 p.32 p.39 p.40 p.44 p.46 p.48

Lake Malta Citadel Park

Breakfast & Coffee Casual Dining Upscale Dining

Nightlife

p.50 p.52 p.56 p.60 p.62 p.66

Bars Clubs

p.68 p.72

Venue Index

p.74

Maps City Map Old Town Map Ostrów Tumski Map Łazarz Map Lake Malta Map

p.04 p.16 p.25 p.32 p.52 3

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Welcome to Poznań Poznań Old Town skyline, including Poz Cathedral (p.26), Royal Castle (p.20) and Old Town Hall (p.17)

A city of half a million with a history dating back to the 8th century, Poznań is considered a likely site of the baptism of Polish ruler Mieszko I and thus the birthplace of the Polish state. Today, this vibrant city is the capital of the Wielkopolska region and a popular business and tourism destination. Poznań’s historical eras - as the residence of early Polish kings, a medieval trade hub, the fortified Prussian city of ‘Posen,’ a stronghold of the Third Reich, and finally its return to Poland after WWII - have created a city with rich architecture and diverse cultural attractions. While part of Poz’s beauty lies in aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sites whose discovery should not be left to chance - and this is where we come in. While Poznań is not often the first city on travelling itineraries, it will prove a pleasant surprise to any who end up here. Crowded with churches, cobblestones and colourful burgher houses, Poznań’s Old Town (p.16) is a collage of architectural styles stuffed with soaring historical monuments, esoteric museums, art galleries and theatres, and more than its fair share of restaurants, bars and cafes. A major cultural and economic centre, Poznań has earned an international reputation as a city of trade fairs, its success stemming partly from its convenient location as a mid-way point on the road from Paris to Moscow. In Poznań, it’s not all about business, however. Over 100,000 people, some 20% of the population, purport to study here at some institute or another, lending a defiantly young and vibrant atmosphere to the streets. Whether you’re here for business or leisure, by exploring our paper guide you’ll find everything you need to the enjoy this city, whether it be bars (p.68), clubs (p.72), restaurants (p.58), museums, (p.40) or even kayaking down the Warta River (p.10). 6

Introducing Poznań

How to Use This Guide Poznań In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools, and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting. Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way for visitors to discover any city is on foot, and we’ve designed our Poznań guide accordingly. Our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. District tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. You might also find intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport. Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate that correlates to the city map on p.4. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Index in the back of the guide (p.74) to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.

Cover Story Poznań IYP is back after the COVID-19 pandemic! To celebrate this resurrection, we probably should have chosen a cover featuring the district of Łazarz (p.32), which is named after St. Lazarus, but - alas - we went with the Grand Theatre (p.39) instead.

Publisher & Staff IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 10,000 copies

Poznań IYP Online Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit poznan.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital of the Wielkopolska region, and poland. inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover. Here are some Poznań articles we wish we had room for in print this issue:

Jewish Poznań Before WWII, Poznań was home to a vibrant Jewish community. Learn about this important part of the city’s history and what remains of Jewish heritage in the 21st century.

Gniezno: Poland’s First Capital? Poznań’s played an important part in the creation of the Polish state, but humble Gniezno - a smaller city 50 km away - can make just as strong a claim as ‘Poland’s birthplace.’

The Piast Route Discover more about Poland’s first dynasty on PL’s oldest cultural tourism trail, connecting 33 historical sites across the region, including medieval strongholds, majestic ruins, modern museums and more.

Editor: Janina Krzysiak Contributors: Garrett Van Reed Sales & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494 Research: Magdalena Kumala Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Copyright Notice All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

River Runs Through It: Exploring the Warta Kayaking near Porta Posnania (p.17) | Photo by Marceli Motyl

Flowing right through Poznań, the Warta River is popular with beach bums, nature lovers, and sports enthusiasts alike. Poznań owes its existence to the Warta River. Originating in the Jurassic limestone landscape of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland to the south, it flows along for a merry 800 km before merging with the mightier Oder River in Kostrzyn on the PolishGerman border. In Poznań, the river separates the Old Town (p.16) from Ostrów Tumski aka the Cathedral Island (p.24), and the Lake Malta (p.52) district which lies beyond. Fairly unpolluted and flanked by lovely marshes and meadows, it’s no surprise that the river attracts Poznań’s dwellers looking for some rest, recreation, and exercise. As Poland's third longest river, it also provides many kilometres' worth of cycling, kayaking, and boating opportunities. While swimming in the river is unfortunately a nono (head to one of Poznań's many lakes for that), the city has created a number of sandy public beaches, including Wilda (I-12), Szeląg (L-1), and 8

Hamaki (Hammocks, K-7). The river banks have long been a popular drinking spot for the city’s youth, and now some beach bars have popped up to expedite the experience, offering booze, music, and deck chairs. These range from simple and somewhat rambunctious establishments near Św. Rocha Bridge (K-9) and Królowej Jadwigi Bridge (J-10) to more artistic undertakings - two of which, kontenerART and Ogród Szeląg, we've listed on p.69. Want to get more active? The city has created a nicely paved biking and walking loop Wartostrada - stretching from Lecha Bridge to the north to Przemysła I Bridge to the south (both just a bit off our map). On the way, you’ll pass Citadel Park (p.56), Porta Posnania (p.25), and the Technical University campus. But that's just the start - below, we list our top tips for making the most of what Warta has to offer.

River Runs Through It: Exploring the Warta

Boating & River Cruises Water Tram The easiest way to actually get on the water is to take a water bus ('water tram' in local parlance), an extension of public transport which floats up and down the river at regular intervals. In 2022, the water tram will operate between April 30th and August 28th on weekends only. Each Saturday and Sunday, there will be three cruises at 11:00, 14:00, and 17:00, each starting from Chwaliszewo and heading either north towards the railway bridge in the village of Koziegłowy (stopping on the way at Szeląg and near the Ostrów Tumski cathedral) or south towards the Starołęka Railway Bridge before returning to Chwaliszewo. Each round-trip cruise takes approximately 1.5h.QK‑7, Chwaliszewo Water Tram Stop (next to KontenerART), rzekawartapoznania. pl. Admission 20zł, kids 3 and under free.

Stary Port Motorboat and Kayak Rental Want to captain your own river cruise? As it turns out, it's quite easy to rent a motorboat in Poz - in essentially the city centre, no less. You don't need a licence of any kind or even experience, and the nice folks here will show you the ropes before sending you off on your own. The boats can carry a maximum of five people, and the 60zł/h pricetag includes fuel. During the weekends, the minimum rental time is 2h. Kayaks are also available for 15zł/h.QJ‑6, Stary Port, ul. Piaskowa 13E, tel (+48) 731 130 534. Open 10:00-20:00.

CULTURAL INFORMATION CENTRE POZNAŃ

• information • tickets • • publications about Poznań • • gadgets and souvenirs • ul. F. Ratajczaka 44 open: Mon.–Fri. 10 am–6 pm, Sat. 10 am–5 pm phone: +48 61 854 07 52, +48 61 854 07 53, +48 61 854 07 54 www.cik.poznan.pl cik@wm.poznan.pl

Cycling For an easy, relaxed bike ride in Poz - maybe with kids? - the Wartostrada is the obvious first choice. Do note that a short bit near Citadel Park is on a road with car traffic, though there are plans to patch this gap. To extend the trip, you can make your way over to Lake Malta, where a 6 km paved route circles around the reservoir; from there, there's the possibility of taking a woodland dirt path to Staw Browarny (Browarny Pond), some 3 km past the eastern end of the lake. For those who enjoy much longer bike trips, there is good news and bad news. The good news is that the Wielkopolska region has mapped out a 372-kmlong bike route along the Warta River (called the Nadwarciański Szlak Rowerowy), which passes through some incredible landscapes and historical sites. The part to the east of Poznań is especially noteworthy, with highlights including Wielkopolska National Park (just outside the city), manually9

Warta River

Kayaking The Warta is a shallow and gentle river, and thus great for kayaking. To paddle a bit on your own, you can rent a kayak from Ogród Szeląg (p.69) or the Stary Port Motorboat and Kayak Rental. What we really recommend doing, though, is getting in touch with one of the companies below and organising a longer kayaking trip. Popular Warta River routes include Kotowo-Rogalinek (around 35 km, which typically comes out to 7 hours), Radzewice-Rogalinek (9 km, 2h), and Radzewice-Poznań (31 km, 7h). For a twoday trip, try Nowe Miasto-Radzewice (48 km). Other (shorter) options include kayaking the Mosiński Canal and the small Głuszynka River.

Kajaki Rogalinek Organised kayaking trips on the Warta River (KotowoRogalinek), Mosiński Canal, and Głuszynka River. Kayak rental costs 50zł/day Mon-Fri, 60zł/day weekends. Kayak transport costs 1.50zł/km from the kayaking base in Rogalinek.Qul. Ogrodowa 6, Rogalinek, tel. (+48) 602 159 103, kajakirogalinek.pl,

Kajaki Dudek driven draisines in Mosina, the Rogalin Landscape Park complete with a Baroque palace, an 18thcentury wooden church in Czeszewo, the ruins of Koło Castle, and the Warta Landscape Park. The bad news is that this is not a purpose-made paved bike path, and its quality can be absolutely atrocious in places, with all sorts of questionable terrain and poor signage. In fact, exiting Wartostrada to the south will immediately lead you under a bridge where the ground is simply carpeted in broken glass. As such, we can only recommend this route to more adventurous cyclists, though we have high hopes that Wielkopolska will eventually follow the lead of some other Polish regions (shout out to Małopolska) and turn it into a world-class long-distance trail. The GPX file can be downloaded from velomapa.pl/szlaki/ nadwarcianski-szlak-rowerowy. Where to rent a bike? For getting around the city, the easiest option is taking advantage of Poznań's city bikes (p.12). For something more reliable, we recommend Rowerowa Holandia bike rental below.

Rowerowa Holandia Dutch bike rental - 12zł for 1 hour, 25zł for 3 hours, 35zł for five hours, 50zł for one day. Haggling is possible for multi-day rentals.QO‑3, ul. Główna 30a, tel. (+48) 783 750 101, rowerowaholandia.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. 10

Organised kayaking trips with very flexible route planning. Kayak rental costs 60zł/day Mon-Thu, 70zł/ day Fri-Sun; multi-day rental 50zł/day. Kayak transport costs 2zł/km from the kayaking base in Radzewice. Qul. Długa 61, Radzewice, tel, (+48) 663 582 244, kajakidudek.pl.

River Runs Through It: Exploring the Warta

Transport

Transport Poznań Główny Train Station, AKA the Breadbox

Travel within Poznań using buses and trams is efficient, fast and cheap; driving a car through the Old Town’s cobbled maze, on the other hand, is not an endeavour we recommend. As such, for visitors the centre of Poznań is best negotiated on foot, or by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi - all of which are explained here. For detailed arrival information about Poznań's airport, and train and bus stations, visit our website.

Poznań City Card Enterprising tourists should consider the Poznań City Card - a splendid piece of plastic that entitles the bearer to free admission or discounts to more than 70 places, plus an optional buy-in for free travel on public transport. The card can be purchased from the Tourist Info centres below, as well as the airport and select hotels. 1-day cards cost 49/35zł (44/30zł without transport); 2 days 65/55zł (55/40zł without transport); 3 days 79/65zł (65/48zł without transport). Qwww.poznan.travel.

Tourist Info Offices: Old Town Market SquareQI-7, Stary Rynek 59/60. Open 09:30-18:00, Sun 09:00-17:00.

Plac KolegiackiQI-7, Pl. Kolegiacki 17. Open May-Sept only, 10:00-18:00. 12

Public Transport Poznań is crisscrossed by over one hundred tram and bus lines, including night routes, which provide a time- and cost-efficient way to move about town. Due to frequent track work and route changes, however, your best bet for figuring out how to use public transport in Poz is the super-helpful website poznan.jakdojade.pl (mobile app also available), which can tell you exactly how to get from point A to Point B in English. Transport tickets are bought from automated machines found on most buses and trams, as well as at many transport stops, and thankfully you can pay by card. The galaxy of ticket options are far too complex to review here; you can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheapest option is a not-very-cheap 4zł for only 15mins - which might only get you 3 or 4 stops.

Transport A 45-min ticket for 6zł is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may want to consider a 24hr, 48hr ticket or even purchasing the Poznań City Card - which includes free public transport - to completely avoid this hassle. Note that kids under five and adults over 70 ride for free. Finally, it is extremely important that you validate your ticket by punching it in one of the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. Inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines, and they aren’t sympathetic to tourists; seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Poz.

Bike & Car Share City Bikes Arguably the easiest way to rent a bike in Poznań, the city’s network of public bike stations and freestanding bikes is fairly dense and extends far outside the city centre, even as far as the airport (or close to it, anyway). To have a go at cycling around Poz, you need to first register online (on their website or the Poznański Rower Miejski mobile app), pay an initial fee of 20zł, and then you’re free to rent a bike of your choice. Bikes come in two base varieties: 3G, which must be returned to bike stations, and 4G, which can be left anywhere within the city limits (but make sure to lock up the front wheel and select the correct option on the on-board computer). Locations and availability are conveniently shown on the PRM map, which also reveals a limited number of e-bikes and bikes with baby seats.Qtel. (+48) 61 666 80 80, www.poznanskirower.pl/en. Open 24hrs. 1zł for the first 30 minutes of each rental period, 2zł for the next 30 minutes, 4zł for each hour after that.

Traficar Car Share Want your own car, but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app (in Polish only). In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for 24 hours for only 59zł and even drop it off in another city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips, big shopping trips, or simply picking up friends at the airport. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL.Qwww.traficar.pl.

Useful Transport Tools Jakdojade Poznań’s tram and bus network is relatively easy to use, even for foreigners, but the key to unlocking it is the poznan.jakdojade.pl site and app. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from A to B once you’re out in town. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically), destination, departure time, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. You can also buy and validate tickets in the app.

e-podroznik.pl This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Poznań, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. You can easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices, and even buy tickets in one of eight languages. There’s also a mobile app (Android only).

Uber If you’re already an Uber user (uber.com), you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Poznań and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

Scooter Rental Although agitating to some, electric motorised scooters are everywhere across Poznań, and provide a cheap, easy, efficient and environmentally-friendly way to get around. To get started, you need an e-scooter app on your phone (create an account and add your personal data and payment details). The firms with the most current coverage in Poznań are Lime, Bolt and Blinkee. Spare yourself the wrath of locals by using your scooter responsibly; don’t ride through congested areas and when you’ve finished your ride, park it out of the way without blocking the sidewalk. 13

Essential Poznań | Sightseeing

Poznań’s market square - seen here owing you an apology - will be sadly under construction until late 2023. Photo by Alex Aender.

Poznań Sightseeing While Poznań’s Old Town is fairly compact and very walkable, the city as a whole is spread out and features many diverse districts. To this end, in our guide we’ve included sections dedicated to the most important neighbourhoods, walking you through not only the Old Town (p.14) and the even more historical Ostrów Tumski (p.24), but also hip Jeżyce (p.28), understated Łazarz (p.32), chilled-out Lake Malta (p.52), and leafy Citadel Park (p.56). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights. 14

Sightseeing | Essential Poznań

9 Essential Sights 1

Old Town Hall

Poznań Fara

Plac Kolegiacki

Royal Castle

Poz’s glorious Town Hall features an impressive history museum (sadly closed) and mechanical goats who butt heads each day at 12:00 noon.QSee p.18. One of Poznań’s most iconic and impressive historical monuments, this former Jesuit temple is a pink effusion of Baroque extravagance.QSee p.17. While the Market Square is under construction, this renovated just southeast of it has taken on many of its social and cultural functions.QSee p.17. Once the pride of Poznań, this royal residence has been faithfully rebuilt and includes the Applied Arts Museum, observation decks, and more.QSee p.20.

Imperial Castle

Ostrów Tumski

The Enigma Cipher Centre

Citadel Park

More a palace than a ‘castle,’ Poznań’s fearsome 1910 Zamek offers guided tours and includes museums, restaurants, bars and more.QSee p.23. Also called Cathedral Island, it was on this island that Poznań was founded, and - arguably ‘where Poland began’.QSee p.24. A brand-new interactive museum dedicated to the three Poznań cryptologists who deciphered the German Enigma code during WWII.QSee p.47. This 19th-century hilltop military fortress was the Nazis’ final stronghold in 1945. Today it’s a leafy 89ha park full of monuments, cemeteries, and museums. QSee p.56.

Old Town Square

Poznań’s beautiful Old Town Square should really be number one on any best-of list. However, this year there’s a bit of a complication: the square is undergoing renovations scheduled to run until summer 2023 and as such has turned into a loud and messy construction zone. Not quite the picture of Old Town charm we’re used to. While there is still access to all of the square’s restaurants, bars, and museums, exploring the Rynek is not what is used to be, which is why we’re foregoing printing our usual Old Town Square walking tour in this issue, but you’ll still find it online. A few words about history, though: the Old Town Square was demarcated around 1253, and is apparently the third largest in Poland after the main squares of Kraków and Wrocław. Sadly destroyed during WWII, it was reconstructed in the postwar years - though the Cloth Hall that used to stand in its centre was replaced with a pair of commie-tastic concrete carbuncles, one of which housed the Arsenał Gallery (p.39) until very recently. Some of the most compelling monuments situated on the square are the Old Town Hall, an 18th-century police guardhouse turned into the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (p.45), and the 16th-century Municipal Scales building, originally used to weigh merchandise. 15

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing

The Old Town

With the Market Square under construction, Plac Kolegiacki (pictured) and Plac Wolności (p.22) will be filling in as Poznań’s social centres. Photo by Małgorzata Stromczyńska.

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Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour The first place to hit up when in Poznań and the heart of the city - the stunning Old Town deserves a proper, old-fashioned walking tour, which we’re here to provide. While Poznań is relatively spread out, the bulk of its tourist attractions are located within its historical Old Town and west towards the train tracks, where the Imperial Castle resides. This is the area covered by this walking tour; for places of interest further away from the centre, including Ostrów Tumski and Citadel Park, see relevant sections up ahead. The tour is approximately 2km long and can take as little as half an hour if you dash through it, though for the more inquisitive tourist a few hours seems more likely. Meandering through the Old Town streets is encouraged, as are breaks for coffee, beer, or your libation of choice in the city’s many cosy cafes and beer gardens. 1

Poznań Fara

The Parish Church, aka Fara (from the German Pfarre), is one of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments. Created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century, it gained the status of ‘lesser basilica’ in 2010 thanks to Pope Benedict XVI. The official name of this establishment is actually quite a mouthful: the Basilica of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Mary Magdalene, and St. Stanislaus, which is why both we and the locals prefer the much simpler Fara. The church boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a precious copy of the painting The Mother of God of Incessant Help). Organ concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 take place on Saturdays at 12:15. Don't miss the basilica’s inner courtyard, a peaceful spot which is usually hosting some outdoor exhibition or other, From there, it's only a few steps to Chopin Park. QI‑7, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara. archpoznan.pl. Open 06:00-19:30. 2

Plac Kolegiacki

Newly reopened after renovations, this expanded public square will absorb some of the social and cultural functions of Poznań’s market square, while the latter is under construction. Formerly a car park in front of Poznań City Hall - located in the lovely Baroque buildings of the former Jesuit College which give this square its name - the resurfaced square now hosts numerous benches, trees, a fountain and the gardens of several bars and restaurants. Until the early 1800s the Collegiate Church of St. Mary Magdalene stood in this place. With an almost-100m tower, the church was one of the largest in Poland when it was

Poznań Fara

Photo by Zbigniew Ratajczak. Courtesy of City of Poznań

destroyed by fire in 1773 and the ruins eventually pulled down by the Prussians. Today the square’s history is acknowledged by a tall monument at its centre called the ‘Clock of History’ and glass windows in the surface of the square showing the church foundations and artefacts below. QI‑7. 3

Budnicy Houses

Although the market square is currently a quagmire of construction, you still have to take a look at Poznań’s most iconic architectural monuments. From the east side of the Rynek you’ll have a good view on the highly photogenic, technicolor row of townhouses known as the ‘Budnicy Houses.’ Originally called “herring shops” (budy śledziowe), these colourful tenements were home to merchants, and their ground-floor arcades held fish, candle, torch, and salt stands. They were later renamed to Budnicy Houses (domki budnicze) in honour of a class of merchants known as Budnicy, whose headquarters used to operate at no. 117. Look closely and you’ll see their unique coat of arms on the facade: three palm trees and a herring.QI‑7, Stary Rynek. 17

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing 4

Old Town Hall

First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s glorious Town Hall (Ratusz) really flowered in mid1500s when Italian architect Giovanni Quadro of Lugano added the Renaissance loggia, attic, and classical tower, earning the structure acclaim as ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps.’ Unfortunately a catalogue of historic disasters including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that today little of the original structure actually remains, though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status as the city’s showpiece.

Poznań’s famous billy goats, seen from inside the Old Town Hall tower. Photo by Grzegorz Babicz.

Stary Browar Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the award-winning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-oftown developments, and a new trend for innercity regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a cinema, fitness club, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, www.starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:0020:00.

Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Museum of Poznań - currently closed for renovations - whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. Directly outside the Town Hall is the original whipping post (Pranger), dating from 1535, with a recently repaired figure of Poz’s executioner standing on top. Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony. The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th century, and the goats have been ramming heads 1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the governor of the Poznań province was invited for the unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats escaped and traipsed up to the top of City Hall, where the governor saw them butting heads and decreed they be added to the clock. The rest, as they say, is history - much like the cook, who was likely tied to the whipping post and given a bloody good thrashing.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. 5

ul. Żydowska

Originally called ul. Sukiennicza (Cloth Hall Street), this unassuming lane became the de facto centre of Jewish life as early as the 13th century, when the first Jewish settlers in Poznań were given plots of land here. Eventually renamed Judenstrasse and later ul. Żydowska (both meaning simply Jewish Street), it retained this character until the tragedy of the Holocaust.

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour While here, keep an eye out for the former Salomon Beniamin Latz Home for the Elderly and Infirm (ul. Żydowska 15/18). Established in 1908 after the Latz foundation swapped properties with the Jewish Community, the home took the place of three synagogues that used to exist at the address; meanwhile, the foundation’s former hospital at ul. Wroniecka was torn down to make room for the New Synagogue. If you manage to get in (the building is currently residential), traces of the in-house synagogue’s balcony can be seen in the stairwell. Another building of note is the former Jewish Library at ul. Żydowska 32, founded in 1904. 6

New Synagogue

Consecrated on September 5, 1907, the New Synagogue was once a much more lavish structure. Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of 1 million marks (to put things in perspective, the cost of the Imperial Castle came to 5 million), the synagogue boasted a floor plan based on the Greek cross, space for 1,200 worshippers, and originally included a copper-plated dome. Following the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. After the war the synagogue continued to function as a municipal pool - leading some to jokingly brand it the ‘swimagogue’ - until the poor state of the building forced its closure. Returned to the Jewish community in 2002, a gallery was opened inside, sporadically hosting free exhibits. Though plan were drafted to adapt it into a Jewish community centre complete with prayer halls, kosher restaurant, and conference facilities, the small problem of raising the millions of złoty necessary proved too large an obstacle. More recently, plans have been made to convert the building into a commemorative museum, with or without an upscale hotel attached, but for now the synagogue continues to stand empty.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 11A.

New Synagogue

Roweromaniak CC BY-SA 2.5

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing the royal residence was continued by his son, then expanded upon and updated over the years by subsequent rulers until its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that.

Medieval City Walls

As a typical central European city, Poznań of course was once snugly encircled by city walls and a moat, with four gates guarding the passage into the narrow streets. Along the walls rose a number of defensive towers named after the guilds who were normally responsible for manning them: there was the Wheelwright Tower, Butcher Tower, and Cloth Tower, to name a few. Originally built sometime in the 13th century, the fortifications were unfortunately largely destroyed during the Swedish Deluge in the 17th century and later invasions of the city, and what was left was almost completely taken apart by the Prussians in the 19th and early 20th centuries to make room for new building projects. One of those was a rather splendid neo-Gothic fire station, which - lovingly refurbished - survives to this day at ul. Masztalarska 3. Passing through its courtyard is a stretch of reconstructed city wall and two rebuilt towers: Baszta Strażacka (Firefighter Tower, not the original name) and Baszta Katarzynek, once part of a convent inhabited by Dominican nuns (then known as ‘Katarzynki’). Part of a third tower, Baszta Armatnia (Artillery Tower) stands on the Roman Wilhelmi Square.QH‑6, Between Skwer Rabbina Akiwy Egera & Skwer Romana Wilhelmiego. 8

Royal Castle

Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th-century ‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important castle. Just one block west of the market square you’ll find Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal Castle. Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital. Work on 20

In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill, which became the home of the Applied Arts Museum. Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical value was undervalued, perhaps due to the untenable prospect of faithfully restoring it. Nonetheless, between 2010 and 2016, the castle was completely reconstructed and now once again overlooks the city. In addition to the Applied Art exhibits, the museum hosts a historical exhibit about the castle and Przemysł II on the ground floor, and the 43m tower can be climbed for fine views of the Old Town.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 75, www.mnp.art.pl/oddzialy/muzeum-sztuk-uzytkowych. Open 10:00-17:00:00; Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 11:0017:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/13zł. Tue free.

Royal Castle

Photo by Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing 9

St. Martin Street

St. Martin’s Day parade on St. Martin Street

This wide street, home to the Imperial Castle and the Music Academy, takes its name from the unassuming St. Martin’s Church located near its eastern end (H-8, ul. Św. Marcin 13). This house of worship originally stood in a settlement outside the walls of Poznań beginning around the 12th century, but was brought inside the boundaries at the end of the 18th century. One of Poznań’s younger traditions, started back in 1994, is the celebration of St. Martin’s name day on November 11th. The festival includes a high mass in St. Martin’s Church, a colourful parade up ul. Św. Marcin to the square in front of the Imperial Castle, special exhibitions, concerts, and performances. A key part of the celebrations are St. Martin’s croissants (rogale świętomarcińskie) - delicious and highly calorific pastries filled with a poppy seed and almond paste (more on p.59). What else can you see on St. Martin? The middle part of the street is dominated by a relic from the PRL era, the ‘Alphas’. Built in the years 1965–1972 and widely considered the buildings that ruined ul. Święty Marcin, these five 12-storey high-rises are a modernist architectural nightmare, more due to their poor workmanship and decades of neglect than the actual design. Recently, the stretch of ul. Św. Marcin along the Alphas underwent a major overhaul, and is now a more welcoming, pedestrian-oriented area with outdoor art installations and a modest bit of greenery. The Alphas too are set for renovation, and we‘re keeping our fingers crossed for the results. 22

Plac Wolności (Freedom Square)

Though it is difficult to imagine now, Poznań’s large and typically empty ‘Freedom Square’ was once the heart of the city - a favourite spot of the upper classes for strolls and coffee. Originally named Wilhelmsplatz (William’s Square) in honour of King Frederick William III of Prussia, it was demarcated by the city’s new Prussian authorities at the very end of the 18th century, soon after Poland had been wiped off the map by the partitioning forces of Prussia, Russia, and AustriaHungary. The main reason for a square this large? Bigheaded higher-ups needed a representative space capable of containing an entire infantry regiment during military parades. In the years leading up to the Great War the square underwent numerous changes, as Polish and Prussian institutions vied for space and influence, encircling the space with buildings designed according to the latest architectural fashion; a few examples are the Raczyński Library at no. 19, the Provincial Museum in Posen (now a National Museum building, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9), and Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego 10; see p.45 for more info on the role it played in the Wielkopolska Uprising). A monument to the 1866 Prusso-Austrian Battle of Nachod popped up, as did a figure of King Wilhelm III; both were torn down triumphantly when Poznań returned to Polish hands following WWI, and the square was given its current name. It wouldn’t last; after a blissful 20 interwar years, during which the square functioned as the cultural centre of Poznań, the square was dug open with trenches in preparation for WWII, and soon German forces once again marched in, renaming the square - you guessed it - Wilhelmsplatz. After the war (and another name change), Plac Wolności was rebuilt and today it serves as the go-to not for state parades, but for protests and demonstrations. In 2012 its most recognizable landmark was unveiled - the Freedom Fountain (Fontanna Wolności), a geometric structure with two 10-metre wings (or sails) made out of glass. QG/H‑7.

Plac Wolności

Photo by HRS Poland

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour 10

Okrąglak

Looking for remnants of the People’s Republic? Cast your camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2), where the imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a four-point intersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of Poznań’s defining icons and has been a listed building since 2003. Constructed between 1948 and 1954 this beast is a leading example of Polish modernism, built to a blueprint by Marek Leykam. Originally slated to be 10 storeys, this 8-floor masterpiece once housed Poznań’s top department store, and it was here that during the lean years of communism locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable elsewhere. After years of abject neglect, in 2011-2012 the Okrąglak was restored and converted into 51,000 square metres of A-class office space.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14, www.okraglakpoznan.pl.

Duck with dumplings and red cabbage

Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from the Franciszkańska street) tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl

Imperial Castle 11

Photo by Przemysław Barlog

Imperial Castle

More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s fearsome ‘Zamek’ in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neoRomanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with the northern part of the complex consisting of service rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again. Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s office (though Hitler would never step foot in Poz), and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height.

Used by the University in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962. Known as Centrum Kultury Zamek (Castle Cultural Centre), this is one of the biggest cultural organisations in the country, hosting hundreds of exhibits, concerts, theatre performances, film screenings, festivals and other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising Museum (p.49), and throughout the large complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes, and bars. If you’re interested in a proper guided experience, audioguides and app guides can be rented for 20/17zł.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. Free admission without tour.

Choose Your Adventure! The Old Town tour might be over, but there’s lots more to discover in Poz. Feel like walking on? Turn east at the Imperial Castle to walk down the length of St. Martin Street (p.22), a place associated with Poznań’s favourite saint and - by extension - the city’s signature croissants, or turn west to follow all the local hipsters to the coolest district in town, Jeżyce (p.28). 23

Śródka & Ostrów Tumski | Sightseeing

Śródka & Ostrów Tumski The Porta Posnania ‘skywalk’ leading into Cathedral Lock, new home of Galeria Śluzna.

Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded, and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrów Tumski becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after the first bishopric was established in 968. The first iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand-year history it has been home to kings and bishops alike. In the 19th century the Prussians added fortifications on Ostrów Tumski, some 24

of which survive to this day, including Cathedral Lock (now home to the Galeria Śluzna exhibition space). In more recent times the Communists showed their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the Archbishop’s garden. A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite bustle of Poznań’s city centre, but also serves as an important crash course on early Polish history and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the Porta Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself.

Sightseeing | Śródka & Ostrów Tumski

What to See Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island

Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts - Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge between the main exhibition building and the Cathedral Lock - a restored section of the former Prussian river fortifications. The main building is actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating history of the area from medieval times to the modern day, with a dollop of Polish-Catholic propaganda, via a rather gimmicky combo of audioguide and interactive multimedia displays.

Galleria Śluza. 2 Galeria Śluza NEW Located in Cathedral Lock (Śluzna Katedralna), part of a 19th-century system of Prussian fortifications around Poznań, this new exhibition space is technically part of Porta Poznania - to which it is connected over the Cybina River by the wonderful skywalk - but operates independently. Temporary exhibits tell the story of how contemporary Poznań has been shaped by its past, focusing on three thematic pillars - city’s people, the urban landscape and natural environment. Unlike the rest of Porta Posnania, entry to the exhibits is free and there is also an entrance from ul. Dziekańska. Check online to see what’s on during your visit. QL‑6, ul. Dziekańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 31, www. galeriasluza.pl. Open 9:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. 1st entry to exhibits at 10:00, weekends 10:20; last entry 1hr before closing. Admission free. U

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The touring route concludes by leading visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for exploring the district. Audioguides are available in English, German, French, Spanish, Czech, Russian, and Ukrainian, with three specially designed audiotour routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one for families - that make the experience worthwhile for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is a souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace that offers unique views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding area. QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. 1st entry to exhibits at 10:00, weekends 10:20; last entry 1hr before closing. Admission 20/15zł. U

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Śródka & Ostrów Tumski | Sightseeing

Śródka

Poznań Cathedral

The most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznań Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from. Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the first cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it was razed, rebuilt, and remodelled numerous times over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism. During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the style visitors see today.

Mural on Rynek Śródecki (L-6)

The creation of the Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre - the gate to Ostrów Tumski meant that the logical starting point for exploring the Cathedral Island has shifted from the Old Town side to Śródka. Good thing, too, since this ancient and irresistibly cute neighbourhood is badly underrated. Once its own town, Śródka was named in honour of its weekly Wednesday market (‘środa’ means ‘Wednesday’ in Polish), and records suggest the small enclave had urban features and its own autonomous government as early as the mid1200s. The presence of Dominican monks, along with the regular market, gave Śródka prominence in the area, which unfortunately didn’t last long; the monks picked up and moved across the Warta River, and Przemysł II (who subsequently became King of Poland) turned the city over to the control of the Bishopric in the 13th century. Suddenly reduced to the role of supplier to Ostrów Tumski, Śródka would continue to slide in prominence as the nearby city of Poznań grew. Śródka had a revitalization of sorts in the 17th century when orders of Phillippines and Reformists swept in and established churches and residences in the city, yet it was nonetheless absorbed into Poznań in 1800. During Prussian times the city was part of a fortified zone that didn’t improve its fate. During World War II much of the city’s centre at Rynek Śródecki was destroyed, and the arrival of the People’s Republic of Poland, which slapped a garish highway across the Archbishop’s gardens and Ostrów Tumski, didn’t improve the area either. Luckily, though, in the 21st century Śródka is slowly experiencing a noticeable revitalization. 26

The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, surrounded by twelve different chapels, including the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry; the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland, destroying pagan idols. The chapel is indeed thoroughly golden, but to fully admire the glitz you must drop a coin into an absurd contraption, whereupon the illumination will come on.

Sightseeing | Śródka & Ostrów Tumski The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, which originated at the famed Nuremburg workshop of Herman and Peter Vischer. The slabs were originally on the Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display. Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware that while the lights in the crypt work for free (no coins!), they are motion-activated, so if you stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.QK‑6, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra. archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00-17:00. Admission 5/4zł. 4

Church of the Virgin Mary

This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style, with a three-nave hall, star vaulting, and polychromatic decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to 1518, which contained flats for the clergy.QK‑6, ul. Panny Marii, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. 5

Archdiocese Museum

Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese. The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art and relics, including the Sword of Saint Peter, numerous statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops. QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 11:00-17:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Mon, Sun. Sun (MaySeptember): 11:00 - 15:00 Last visitors enter half an hour before closing. Admission 10/7zł.

Genius Loci Archeological Preserve 6

Genius Loci Archaeological Preserve

Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia displays and documentary films, and brave the glass walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls and embankments. The audioguide (included in the price) comes in Polish, English, German, Russian, and French and helps explain how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QK‑6, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.rezerwat.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-15:00; closed Mon. The last entry to the exhibition is possible no later than 30 minutes before the closing of the Reserve. Admission 10/6zł, Sun free. U

Eat & Drink Though very small, Śródka has a surprising number of good restaurants. Here are our top two.

Hyćka The widest selection of regional Wielkopolska dishes, including blood soup, grey dumplings, and the hyćka elderflower cordial. See p.63.QL-6, Rynek Śródecki 17.

Na Winklu This hip corner bistro in Śródka turns pierogi into an art by baking their dumplings and using creative fillings you won’t find elsewhere. See p.64.QL-6, ul. Śródka 1. 27

Jeżyce | Sightseeing

Jeżyce:

Poznań’s Coolest Neighbourhood A mix of architectural styles and street art in Jeżyce

Grungy and hip, Jeżyce serves as an alternative to the Old Town, offering good eats, cool street art, and a few historical attractions. Almost all of Poland’s major cities seem to have a gravitational centre of charm in the beloved ‘Old Town’ of each, and Poznań is no different. However, after a millennia of business-as-usual, the old school charisma will eventually be challenged by a grungier, cheaper and generally younger community somewhere further out. In Poznań, this area is Jeżyce - a happening neighbourhood to the west of the city centre and welldeserving of the ‘cool’ adjective! In the 21st century, Poznań’s increasingly hipster and food-obsessed district might not be much of a looker, but there’s plenty brewing under the surface if you’re interested in doing some more alternative sightseeing. First mentioned all the way back in 1253 and believed to have been named after some guy called Jerzy (George), nothing would really happen here until the mid 19th century. The ‘foundation’ of the original village can be observed along today’s ul. Kościelna, which today functions like the district’s high street. The city’s first railway station was built here in 1848; however, it was relocated a couple of decades later to where it is now. On the older site, the city’s first zoo was founded in 1871. Those who are against animals in captivity can at least appreciate the old pavilion buildings and green parklands, though the site’s main purpose is hard to ignore! 28

Further development in the early 20th century saw townhouses replacing farming infrastructure and the grounds of the all-important Botanical Gardens. If you look at the district on Google Maps, you’ll see that it is squarely-defined by the limits of the major roads to the west and south and the old fortifications and railway line to the north and east. These strict borders were part of a decision made in the 1890s to place limits on the district, which then defined Jeżyce Market Square as its centre. However, Jeżyce is typically associated with covering at least another couple of square kilometres to the west. In addition to the neighbourhood’s trendy gastro points (see our favourites in the Eat & Drink box), Jeżyce is also a place to sample culture. Most notably, keep an eye on the schedule at the New Theatre (E-6, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5, teatrnowy.pl) and Rialto Cinema (p.51).

Getting There Exceedingly easy to get to from the centre, take trams 2, 17 or 18. The ‘Rynek Jeżycki’ stop is the logical place to start, which puts you right on the neighbourhood’s market square, and at the bottom of ul. Kościelna - the district’s high street.

Sightseeing | Jeżyce

What to See Jeżyce Market Square For many, Jeżyce is synonymous with its market square, wherea daily open-air market still functions (open 06:00-20:00; closed Sun). Laid out in 1891, this was once one of the city’s finest public squares, as evidenced by the faded glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the 400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing and other random goods you might be wiser not to take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QC‑6, Rynek Jeżycki.

ul. Kościelna & WW2 Air Raid Shelter Running north from Rynek Jeżycki, this is a good street to explore and get a vibe for the neighbourhood, as it features many cafes, restaurants, ice cream parlours and divey student bars, as well as several large murals. ‘Church Street’ takes its name from the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus & St. Florian a red-brick beauty that squats on the southern end of the road and was consecrated in 1911.

Eat & Drink Jeżyce is all about those hipster eats, and you might do well to just wander around and see what catches your eye. That being said, here are a few of our favourite places to dine.

ALEkosmos Awesome breakfast and coffee spot featuring a lush tangle of houseplants planted in a bathtub. See p.60.QB-6, ul. Jackowskiego 43.

Falla This hip Jeżyce bistro turns out falafel bowls so delicious and beautifully presented it’ll make you want to weep for joy. See p.63.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19.

U Aipo A delightful hole-in-the-wall serving authentic Kyrgyz cuisine. See p.64.QC‑6, ul. Szamarzewskiego 8.

Wypas Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, this underground restaurant is known for heaping portions of international dishes. See p.64.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38. and sink. After the war the shelter was used to store municipal waste, and later as a homeless shelter. Since 2019 it has been maintained by a passionate group of locals who have installed artefacts and exhibits about the site’s history and it is open to the public as a small museum every Sunday from 14:0019:00; to inquire about visiting other times email robmenesiak@gmail.com.QC/D-4/5.

Further on near ul. Kościelna 50 you’ll find the entrance to an underground WWII-era air raid shelter. Built by the Nazis in 1943, this was a civilian shelter that could hold up to 150 people and was for Germans only; Polish residents of Poznań were not admitted. As it happens, Poznań was the target of three Allied air raids, but the air raid alarm was sounded on at least 130 occasions, during which Germans living in the tenements nearby would pack into this underground bunker, which was lit with kerosene and carbine lamps and included a toilet 29

Jeżyce | Sightseeing

Curiosity Crossroads: Sołacz

The Old Zoo One of Poland’s oldest zoos, the Old Zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of the city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting their stuff, pythons slithering, and caimans splashing around. It’s worth the admission price, and enjoyable to visit without the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo. poznan.pl. Open 09:00-17:00. From April open 09:0019:00. Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House.

Photo by W. A. Jóźwiak. Courtesy of City of Poznań

This lush green district just north of Jeżyce might be small, but it is a lovely place for a walk if you do find yourself in this area. Originally its own village located outside of Poznań, Sołacz took on its current shape and character at the beginning of the 20th century, when architect and urban planner Josef Stübben oversaw its evolution into a luxury villa district. The neighbourhood is bisected by the Bogdanka Stream, running through two parks: Park Sołacki (B/C-2/3) and Park Adama Wodziczki (D/E-3). Park Sołacki is the bigger of the two and occupied by two ponds in addition to a 1911 pavilion housing the Port Sołacz restaurant (p.66). With no fence hemming it in you’re free to wander the more than 14 hectares it covers and enjoy the peace and quiet anytime you like. Just steps away is a 4-hectare arboretum with over 800 kids of trees (A-2, ul. Wojska Polskiego 71E; open 10:00-18:00 Mon-Fri), and, beyond that, the peaceful Lake Rusałka (p.54).

Photo by Radosław Maciejewski. Courtesy of City of Poznań

Botanical Garden Located just below the southeast shore of Lake Rusałka, Poznań’s pretty but somewhat neglected Botanical Garden boasts a vast 22 hectares and over 7,000 varieties of plants from various climates and ecosystems. Free to visit and open year-round, the garden is a recreational and educational park owned by the Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, and its history dates back to 1922 when it was only a 6 hectare plot. The park includes several greenhouses (not open to the public), a large Alpinarium, a snazzy two-storey exhibition pavilion with an art gallery and cafe, several enormous standing stones that look like they took great trouble to bring here, and a lovely ballerina fountain designed by Margaret Węcławska - a graduate of the Poz Academy of Fine Arts. Worth visiting on a nice day, though note that it is quite popular on weekends. To get here, take tram no. 17 from Plac Ratajskiego to Ogrody, or consider renting a city bike - it’s a 4 km trip from the Old Town. Qul. Dąbrowskiego 165 (Ogrody), tel. (+48) 61 829 20 13, www.obuam.robia.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. From May open 09:00-20:00. Admission free. UL

Łazarz | Sightseeing

Łazarz The Palm House in Wilson Park | Photo by Robert Dolicher

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Sightseeing | Łazarz Filled with 19th-20th century townhouses and villas in addition to several parks, Łazarz has a distinct community feel with an undercurrent grungy vibe. Though it might at first feel largely residential, the district is home to many of Poznań’s attractions, including the famed International Fair grounds, the Palm House, a commie-tastic and highly instagrammable sporting arena (Hala Arena), and refurbished light cavalry barracks (City Park / Stare Koszary) now housing an assortment of top-notch restaurants.

HISTORY The settlement called Łazarz (Lazarus) was founded in the 15th or 16th century on land previously owned by the Order of St. Lazarus, a Catholic formation known for taking care of lepers. In the 1700s it welcomed an influx of Bambers and - a century later - a wave of industrialization with the creation of factories and an electrical plant. In April 1900 Łazarz was integrated into Poznań along with Jeżyce, Wilda, and Górczyn, sparking a period of rapid development resulting in a fantastic array of art noveau, modernist, neo-Classicist and Swiss chalet style architecture. Mercifully spared during WWII, Łazarz served as the city’s administrative centre for a short time, and it continued to carry on a peaceful existence in the postwar years. 1

Poznań Congress Centre

Occupying a sprawling plot of land just west of the train station, the Poznań Congress Center is home to the Poznań International Trade Fairs (see p.36), the tradition of which dates back to 1921. Each year sees 60+ trade fair events - everything from welding to horticulture and from logistics to beach fashion hosted throughout this 150,000m2 space consisting of 16 air-conditioned halls and 77 modern conference rooms.QD‑9, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00, www.pcc.mtp.pl. 2

Jewish Cemetery

Tragically, the Jewish Cemetery on ul. Głogowska, founded in 1804 after Prussian authorities liquidated a necropolis located on what is now Plac Wolności, was fully razed by the Nazis during WWII, with most of the grounds subsequently incorporated into the Poznań International Fair. In 2007-2008, however, a small part of the cemetery was reconstructed in the only open space available - a small courtyard at ul. Głogowska 26A. The commemorative site comprises modern tombstones of Rabbi Akiva Eger, his wife and son, and two other Poznań rabbis. Entry is by prior arrangement only, but you can peek through the gate anytime; call +48 726 100 199 or e-mail gekafka@jewish.org.pl to arrange a visit.QC‑9, ul. Głogowska 26A.

Eat & Drink

Social Night Market

Photo by Artur Nowicki

The go-to area for dining in Łazarz is without a doubt City Park, but the neighbourhood also has plenty of hidden gems to discover. If you’re looking for more than a meal but also a place to socialise with locals and spend the evening, look no further than Social Night Market, Poz’s trendy open-air food market/hipster hangout/party spot.

Kyokai Sushi Bar An upscale sushi establishment in City Park, also serving a range of other Japanese delights. See p.66.QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4.

Pączuś i Kawusia Called ‘donut and coffee’, this cafe serves delicious, homemade Polish pączki and - indeed - specialty coffee. See p.61.QC‑11, Ul. Rynek Łazarski 8.

Thai Thai This refined City Park eatery offers upscale Asian cuisine - from pad thai to monkfish in red curry sauce. See p.67. QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4.

Social Night Market This summertime food truck extravaganza is where all the cool kids go to eat, drink, and socialise. See p.63.Qul. Kolejowa 23.

Ułan Browar This excellent brewpub in City Park offers craft beer, pub grub and billiards, and also hosts concerts and other events.QA-10, ul. Kolejowa 23. 33

Łazarz | Sightseeing

Leprosarium of St. Lazarus Hidden in plain sight a stone’s throw away from Stary Browar (p.18), this unassuming whitewalled, red-roofed building in Poznań’s struggling Wilda district has some eight hundred years of history to it, and - if hauntings were real - would be one of the city’s busiest spots ‘round Halloween. Though its exact origins have been shrouded in historical fog, most historians pin its founding to the early or mid 13th century, when leprosy brought back from the Holy Land by crusaders was wreaking havoc in Europe. Yes, karma is a bitch, as some would say, but thanks to Jesus’s fondness for curing lepers (who were considered outcasts in the Jewish community at the time), the disease was considered divine mercy rather than a curse, a form of suffering meant for a chosen few - or not so few - which would bring them closer to God. All this meant that there were plenty of Christians willing to help the lepers live out their miserable lives, none more than the Order of St. Lazarus, a society named after a man resurrected by Jesus after succumbing to leprosy. Founded around 1119 in Palestine, the order spread around Europe, reaching Poznań in the 13th century. Here they built a church, hospital, and said leprosorium, eventually giving name to the Łazarz settlement. The original village was bisected by train tracks in the 19th century, landing the leprosorium officially in the Wilda district - nevertheless, this is where Łazarz began. Rebuilt to an extent in the 18th century and renovated in the 1980s, the building currently houses a crisis intervention centre.QG‑10, ul. Niedziałkowskiego 30.

Sołtysówka

Though development in the late 19th century and early 20th saw Łazarz take on a decidedly city-like character, its village heritage can still be traced. There is perhaps no better example of this than the house of Łazarz’s last sołtys, or village leader, decomposing on ul. Głogowska, not far from Wilson Park. This intriguing structure, sticking out like a sore thumb among the street’s stately multi-family architecture, dates back to 1902, two years after its owner Adam Jeske ceased his merry sołtysing days. This came about as a result of the 1900 integration of Łazarz into Poznań, and in that sense the building never even saw Łazarz as an independent village, but its style is certainly a throwback. Unfortunately, due to a lack of willing buyers or city funds Sołtysówka has fallen into dire disrepair, now looking like it could easily star in a horror flick.QC‑10, ul. Głogowskiej 37. 4

Wilson Park

Łazarz’s most popular park originated in 1834 as a tree nursery supplying plants for local streets and squares during the district’s rapid expansion. In 1902 the land was handed over to city authorities, who soon used it to create Poznań’s first botanical garden (no longer in existence), followed by the Palm House. After the Great War the park was renamed in honour of US president Thomas Woodrow Wilson, whose bust now sits opposite the main entrance. For a while in the 1920s there was talk of building a planetarium, a project which unfortunately never came to fruition; instead, a fountain made an appearance in 1929, just in time for the Polish General Exhibition which took place in Poznań that year.QC‑9, between ul. Głogowska, ul. Matejki and ul. Berwińskiego. Open 05:00-22:00. 5 Perseus Freeing Andromeda

This rather spectacular scene from Greek mythology shows Perseus using the gorgon’s head to free Princess Andromeda from the sea monster Ketos. Sculpted in 1891 by Johannes Pfuhl, a professor of the Academy of Arts in Berlin, it was commissioned to honour Queen Augusta Victoria, who had visited the city in 1888. Originally located on Plac Cyryla Ratajskiego, the monument was thoroughly renovated after WWII, and moved to Wilson Park, where it now stands in front of the Palm House.QB‑9, Wilson Park. The edge of Wilson Park

Sightseeing | Łazarz

Hala Arena; photo by Honorata Kucharska 6

Palm House

Built in waves beginning in 1910, the Palm House in Wilson Park began as a small showcase for palm trees and cacti and is now one of the largest of its kind in Europe. After the Red Army liberated Poznań in 1945 the heavily damaged Palm House lost almost all of its tropical plants, though quickly restocked and reopened again in 1946. Today the interior is filled with 1100 species of plants from all over the globe and 170 species of fish - including some of the largest goldfish we’ve ever seen. While all of the minimal signage is in Polish and Latin, it doesn’t inhibit your visit if the goal is awe. The soaring greenhouses include plants from savannahs, deserts, and tropical climates (and the temperature reflects that; be prepared to shed some layers when visiting this humid site) interspersed with tanks that host creatures like iguanas and giant snakes. QC‑9, ul. Matejki 18 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 61 865 89 07, www.palmiarnia.poznan.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Mon. From May open 09:00-17:00; Sun 09:00-18:00; Mon closed. Admission 12/8zł. Children under 3 free. 7

Hala Arena

One of those splendidly odd (and oddly instagrammable) concrete commie-era structures, the Hala Arena was actually inspired by the modernist Palazzetto dello Sport in Rome, which it resembles to a remarkable extent. Opened to the public in 1974, the sporting arena’s best days may be behind it, but its 4200 seats and 13 500 square metres of usable space are still regularly used for concerts and sporting events.QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33, tel. (+48) 61 866 60 31, www.arenapoznan.pl.

City Park (Stare Koszary)

What was once 19th-century Prussian barracks, taken over by the Polish light cavalry (the Uhlans) after WWI, has been lovingly refurbished under the watchful eye of the local conservator-restorer, and is now a luxury complex with a five-star hotel, high-end apartments, and gourmet restaurants including Kyokai Sushi (p.66) and Thai Thai (p.67). Definitely the place to eat in Łazarz.QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 61 662 44 42. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

City Park

Łazarz | Sightseeing

Poznań Trade Fairs

Poznań International Trade Fair complex.

While many foreign visitors to Central Europe may be unfamiliar with Poznań, businesspeople involved in foreign trade are likely to be more than aware of the city. That’s because Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital with the title justified by the country’s largest fair grounds, where the biggest & best fairs in Poland take place each year. Though Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back to the thirteenth century, the true predecessor of today’s fair was the 1911 East German Industrial Exhibition, which showcased Germany’s achievements in annexed Polish territories. Six years later the Union of Merchant Associations, comprising merchants from Greater Poland and Eastern Pomerania, decided to develop a specialised cyclical expo based on the successful model of the Leipzig Trade Fair. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921, when the first Poznań Fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political and economic changes that periodically moved through Poland and Europe: from playing a key role in re-integrating economic activities in the newly independent second Polish Republic, to the near-demise of the fair complex during WWII air raids (which destroyed the iconic Upper Silesian Tower), and to a new start in the post-war communist state.

St. Anna’s Church

This neo-Gothic house of worship was a direct result of the rapid development of Łazarz during the late 19th and early 20th centruries. Completed in the years 1905-1907 for the local Protestants (at the time Poznań was still in Prussian-controlled territory, and thus had a sizeable Protestant population), St. Anna’s was converted to a Roman Catholic church in the final days of WWII.QA‑10, ul. Matejki 43, www.swanna.tami. pl. Open Tue and Thu only, 07:00-19:00.

Łazarz Market

Though officially the heart of Łazarz, the district’s market square (Rynek) does not exemplify the majestic grandeur those words might typically evoke in Poland, but a recent renovation has put a bit more shine on it with new trees and benches. Laid out in 1894 under the name Lazarusplatz and surrounded by townhouses from the early 20th century, the market square in Łazarz is just that - a market. Until recently it was permanently occupied by around 300(!) somewhat shabby striped tents selling cheap local produce, fresh flowers, and assorted bric-a-brac. Now all that has moved under a strange flying-saucerlike structure which cost the city some 40 million PLN. Regardless, you can buy almost anything you’d ever want here, and a lot more you’d never need.QC‑11, Rynek Łazarski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:0020:00; closed Sun.

Currently, the Poznań International Fair constitutes over 55% of the Polish exhibition industry, hosting some 10,000 exhibitors a year - approximately a quarter of them foreign - in the complex’s sixteen halls, which add up to 150,000 square meters of space. The total number of annual visitors attending the sixty or so trade fair events usually reaches half a million. St. Anna’s Church

Sightseeing | Łazarz

‘The Thin Wire’ mural on ul. Nowowiejskiego 17 (G-6)

Art, History & Culture Poznań is without a doubt a city overflowing with history; and it’s got a bit of a contemporary art and culture scene as well. We’ve created this chapter of the guide to help you discover the city’s best art and music spaces, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in the Poznań’s thousand-year-old history. 38

Art, History & Culture | Art Tourism

Poznań’s Best Spaces for Art & Music Okay, so Poznań isn’t exactly in the Polish avant-garde when it comes to the art scene. While the bulk of the cultural goings-on are to be found in Kraków and Warsaw, here you’ll find some more traditional and low-key artistic endeavors, including solid operatic and philharmonic programmes and the occasional high-profile exhibition. Wandering around the streets will also reveal delightful and memorable street art, including the works of well-known Poznań artist Noriaki. We list our top recommendations below. 1

Grand Theatre

Arsenał City Gallery

ZAMEK Culture Centre

Built in 1910, the Grand Theatre is the most prestigious venue in town for opera and ballet performances - both classical and contemporary. QF-6, ul.Fredry 9, opera.poznan.pl. One of the oldest players on Poz’s art gallery scene, the Arsenal hosts free exhibitions by Polish and foreign artists.QJ-6, ul. Szyperska 2, arsenal.art.pl. One of Poland’s biggest cultural institutions, the Imperial Castle hosts over 2500 events anually, acting as a theatre, gallery, cinema, and concert venue. It also houses the 1956 Uprising Museum (p.23).QF-7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, ckzamek.pl.

Poznań Philharmonic

National Museum

Stary Browar

Tracing its origin to 1919, the Poznań Philharmonic is the place to enjoy classical music in the city.QF-7, ul. Św. Marcin 81, filharmoniapoznanska.pl. An excellent museum with a rich history of modern Polish art, medieval art, and impressive Italian, Dutch, Spanish, and Flemish paintings.QSee p.41. It’s a bit weird to recommend a shopping mall in an art category, but Stary Browar is much more than that - housed in an old brewery, this award-winning urban renewal complex is filled with sculptures and artistic installations.QSee p.18.

Murals & Street Art For a long time, the height of Polish street art amounted to scrawling less print-friendly versions of “All Cops Are Bastards” and “Lech Poznań 4ever” on residential buildings and/or historical monuments in the dead of night. Better times for art have arrived though, and the local scene took off in 2011 with the first edition of the Outer Spaces Festival, which saw renowned muralists invited to spice up the drab exteriors of carefully-chosen buildings. Since then more murals have popped up, but not everyone has opted for the legal route: a certain Banksy-esque character operating under the pseudonym Noriaki is responsible for tagging the city walls with variations of Pan Peryskop (Mr. Periscope) AKA The Watcher - a loveable maverick who has integrated himself into the fabric of the city. Now that you know, you’ll see him everywhere. Fancy a walking tour of Poznań’s best street art - like this mural at right by Grzegorz Myćki? Scan the QR code or head to iyp.me/74322f for a rundown of not-to-be-missed specimens, all pinned with GPS. 39

Museums | Art, History & Culture

Museums Porta Posnania | Photo: Łukasz Gdak / CTK TRAKT

For a relatively small city, Poznań has an impressive range of museums though they also tend to be on the smaller side. Here we’ve listed the most important and interesting institutions, from state-of-the-art interactive museums to more traditional artefact collections. Scan the QR code to the right to head to our complete list of museums, which includes some very niche establishments. 1956 Uprising Museum

Archaeological Museum

Hidden down a side entrance of the Imperial Castle (p.23), this basement masterpiece honours the first armed resistance the Polish communist regime faced. QSee p.49.

Housed in the beautiful 16th-century Górka Palace, Poznań’s Archaeology Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in North Africa and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes you through the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature dioramas depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron Age. The other permanent exhibits include ‘Death and Life in Ancient Egypt,’ ‘Archeology of Sudan,’ ‘Rock Art of North Africa,’ and there is also a three-metre-tall granite monolith, the Obelisk of Ramesses II, located in the courtyard.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), www.nowa.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 09.00-16:00; Fri 10:00-17:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 12:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. Sat free. Free audio guides avaliable in English. U

Applied Arts Museum Housed in the Royal Castle of Poznań, this museum has recently undergone huge changes which shifted the focus from medieval craftwork and princely decorations exclusively to applied arts, rolling out a 2000-piece exhibition of furniture, fabrics, ceramics, glassware, weaponry, and clothing from around the world. For those more interested in the actual history of the place, we recommend skipping the arts and checking out the (sparse) ground-floor exhibition dedicated to the castle and its founder, Duke Przemysł II, as well as climbing the seasonally-open tower.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła 1, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 10:00-17:00:00; Fri 11:0020:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/1-13zł. Tue free. U 40

Archdiocese Museum Devoted to religious art and relics, the Archdiocese Museum houses paintings, statues, and robes preserved from Poznań’s line-up of bishops.QSee p.27.

Art, History & Culture | Museums Armoured Weaponry Museum Do you really, really like tanks? Do you want to see one that was autographed by Steven Spielberg and used in his film Bridge of Spies (parts of which were filmed in PL)? If you answered yes, then this museum will be a treat for you, though it does require some determination to get there - it’s all the way out by the Airport. Spread out over four squat metal buildings, the museum features all manner of armoured vehicles and heavy artillery, plus a sprinkling of WWI, WWII, and Cold War history in Polish, English, and even Dutch. The staff are knowledgeable and eager to answer questions, brushing up their knowledge by reading WWII history magazines during down-time.Qul. 3 Pułku Lotniczego 4, www.muzeumbronipancernej.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 20/10, Tue free. UL

Chocolate Museum Joining the Croissant Museum is another sweet temptation under an educational guise: the Chocolate Museum where kids of all ages (including those quite grown and greying) can learn about cacao tree plantations, the history of chocolate, and chocolatemaking techniques while sampling decadent creations. The guided tours last an estimated 50 minutes and include workshops during which participants create their own chocolate bars - to take home, of course (if you can refrain from wolfing them down on the spot). QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, www.muzeumczekolady.edu. pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 40zł/person. U

Enigma Cipher Centre

NEW Very cool new museum dedicated to three Poznań cryptologists who decoded the German Enigma machine and helped to bring WWII to a close a few years earlier.QSee p.47.

Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island This modern culture complex symbolically connects Poznań's two oldest districts - Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - presenting the area's history.QSee p.?5.

Poznań Army Museum This museum provides an overview of the city’s military history, with a particular focus on WWII and the inter-war period.QSee p.56.

Poznań Bamber Museum Learn about the Bamber people, ethnic Germans from Bamberg who settled in Poznań in the 18th century, inside a mildly interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays include old bonnets, looms, paintings, clothing, and timber furniture – everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum - but very little written information.QJ‑8, ul. Mostowa 7/9, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 10:00-14:00. Admission free. U

Poznań Croissant Museum Dedicated to the delicious local delicacy of St. Martin’s Croissants, the Croissant Museum hosts numerous daily and weekly shows, one of which is in English and takes place at 14:00 on the weekends and irregularly during the week (check the website). The 50min session includes a multimedia presentation, legends, a tour of the historic museum building, a chance to bake croissants using traditional tools, and - of course - a tasting.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl.

Museum of Armaments The remains of this Prussian fort prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of Armaments, which features various weaponry and ammo.QSee p.57.

National Museum A large and excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting Impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art in Poland and plenty of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition, a Monet painting stolen in 2000 is back on display. Paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/1-10zł, Tue free. U

Poznań Croissant Museum

Museums | Art, History & Culture

Poznań Kaiserpanorama

Think that explaining cassette tapes to your kids is difficult? Try to get them to wrap their heads around this crazy 1920s entertainment system. Peer inside the Kaiserpanorama (called Fotoplastykon in Polish) for a collection of stereoscopic photographs of turn-of-the(twentieth-)century Poznań. In previous years this antique - which made it intact through WWII, and went through stints of basement confinement in the postwar years - resided in the Arsenał City Gallery on the main square before finding a new home inside the Arkadia building, originally a theatre, on Plac Wolności. Until July 31st 2022 you can also view a batch of photographs of Rome as part of a special exhibition.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44, www.fb.com/fotoplastykonpoznanski. Open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Admission 5/2zł.

Poznań Potato Museum Part of Poland’s holy trinity of cabbage, potatoes and vodka - this fittingly underground museum is indeed devoted to the humble ‘ziemnak’ or ‘pyry’ as they are proudly known in the local dialect. A bit self-aware of the absurdity of such a museum, the costumed staff take pains to be very earnest, but also keep things light-hearted, fun and highly interactive as they guide you through the exhibits, which recount the full history of this favoured tuber through the ages, and its importance to Poznań. You’ll discover all the different varieties of potato, the immense myriad of potatoey things that Poles can create in the kitchen, and every guest gets to season and bake their own pyra. Entertaining a lot of school groups, individual guests are welcome from Fri-Sun, and tickets should be booked online.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 18 (entrance from ul. Mokra), tel. (+48) 609 12 16 11, www. muzeumpyry.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Wed 09:00-17:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20/19zł, in English 22zł; the price includes guided tour and workshops.

Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. The first Nazi concentration camp organised in occupied Poland, at least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of which 4,500 were murdered, though other estimates have the death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk, along which visitors will see the ‘death wall’ - where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark underground tunnels used as makeshift gas chambers. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips, and arrest warrants. The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved, including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries, and identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task, however. It’s found in the western suburbs, so your best bet is a taxi or Uber.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:0016:00, Mon closed; from Nov-Feb open 10:00-16:00, Mon closed. Admission 12/6zł; Tue free.

Wielkopolska Uprising Museum

Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum.

This modern museum chronicles the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising in a market square structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard.QSee p.45.

Art, History & Culture | Museums

in Wielkopolska! Sure, the lively city of Poznań has more than enough attractions and hidden spots to occupy your time here. But how about exploring what lies beyond, in the larger Wielkopolska region? Hop on a train, bus, or in a car, and discover off-the-beaten path gems like the 1000-year-old cathedral of Gniezno, the Wolsztyn steam train depot (and yes, you can ride one of the vintage trains!), or the historical old towns of Leszno and Kalisz. Looking for some outdoor activities? The Wielkopolska National Park lies right outside Poznań, and the region abounds in opportunities for kayaking, cycling, even sailing and windsurfing. Read more at inyourpocket.com (scan the QR code to be teleported to our website) and at wielkopolska.travel/en. 43

1918–19 Wielkopolska Uprising | Art, History & Culture

1918–19 Wielkopolska Uprising The Wielkopolska Uprising Monument

Since 1795 - when it was carved between Imperial Russia, Prussia and Habsburg Austria - Poland had been off the map and effectively ceased to be a country. Poznań enjoyed brief freedom when Napoleon’s conquering troops liberated much of Poland during their march east in 1806, however Napoleon’s military disaster on the plains of Russia resulted in the 1815 Congress of Vienna, which saw Poznań delivered back into Prussian hands where it would remain for over a century. With Europe reeling after World War I, Germany in collapse, and Russia plunged into revolutionary chaos, Polish patriotic fervour once more simmered to the surface. The overwhelmingly Polish people of Poznań could sense independence was near, but there remained one crucial sticking point: German stubbornness to relinquish the Wielkopolska region. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an independent Poland had failed to set any boundaries, and though Warsaw was back in the hands of a Polish government, Poznań was still answerable to Berlin. Ever since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918, Poznań’s Poles had been plotting an uprising. Positions in local government and industry were forcibly seized by Poles and the countdown was on for outright war. Following weeks of tension the fuse was finally lit on December 27th. Historical accounts of how the Uprising started vary; some sources claim it was 44

the shooting of Franciszek Ratajczak and Antoni Andrzejewski on the steps of the police headquarters that started the initial fighting, though most point to a stirring speech given by the pianist and patriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski from the window of what was then the Bazar Hotel. While addressing the Polish crowd assembled below a German counter-demonstration passed by – within moments shots had been fired and the Uprising had begun. Historians disagree on which side started the hostilities, but either way there was no turning back the clock. Within hours Polish forces had captured the Poznań train station and post office, while other towns in the region joined them in rebellion. Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak, the Polish forces scored swift successes against a German army shattered from four years of world war, liberating neighbouring Kórnik and Mogilno, but counter attacks suggested a stiffening German resolve. Fighting continued and by January the situation was out of hand. To save the region from total anarchy, the government in waiting took charge of all civil and military issues, conscripting all Polish men born between 1897 and 1899 into military service. Taking their oaths of allegiance in what is today Plac Wolności, Freedom Square (p.22), the Polish troops continued to march into increasingly fierce battles with their German counterparts.

Art, History & Culture | 1918–19 Wielkopolska Uprising Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in no small part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 saw the beginning of international peace talks, and within two days the French delegation had persuaded the Germans to sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, this time including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fighting continued for the next few days, but to all intents and purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, were liberated.

Wielkopolska Uprising Museum

Bazar Hotel So what of the hotel at the centre of the Wielkopolska Uprising? Its history goes back to 1838, a time when Poznań was under Prussian occupation, and Polish institutions vied with their Prussian counterparts for the right to exist, especially on the dynamicallydeveloping Wilhelmsplatz (now Plac Wolności). It was in that year that social activist Karol Marcinkowski got a bunch of rich landowners together and started the Bazar Joint-Stock Company with the purpose of supporting pro-Polish social initiatives and businesses. Their main project was building a luxurious hotel and renting out space to Polish enterprises. The grand neoclassicist/neo-Baroque structure was built between 1839 and 1842, becoming the largest non-sacral building in the city. The plan worked marvellously: Bazar became home to the Landowner Bank, the Anthropological Society, a casino, three newspapers, and numerous other societies and businesses. In December of 1918 the Polish composer and politician Ignacy Jan Paderewski gave a rousing speech from one of the hotel windows, helping to spark the Wielkopolska Uprising. Throughout the Uprising the Bazar served as official HQ for the rebels. Nazi occupation marked an end to its glory days and it suffered horrendous damage during the 1945 siege. Renovations began immediately after liberation and the building became the property of the Orbis group in 1950 who operated a hotel from

Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising (though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. A big renovation in the 2010’s took the exhibition from a series of artefacts to a modern multimedia creation on par with the Silesian Museum in Katowice or the Warsaw Uprising Museum in the nation’s capital (though much smaller, of course). Downstairs is a mish-mash of weapons, uniforms, reconstructed bunkers and trenches, and vintage photographs, which look great but fail to convey much meaningful information; the historical info is all upstairs, where you can also take a picture dressed as a Wielkopolska soldier. QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www. wmn.poznan.pl/odwiedz-nas/muzeum-powstaniawielkopolskiego-1918-1919/. From March to October: Mon closed, Tue-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:0016:00; from November to February: Mon closed, TueSun 10:00-16:00. Admission 12/6zł. Tue free. U

there until 1990 when it was returned to its pre-war stockholders. Recently the building has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance, with its shopping arcades filled with designer stores and eateries.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, www.hotelbazar.pl.

Wielkopolska Uprising Monument

Bazar Hotel

Sitting in the northwest end of Drwęskich Park, the Wielkopolska Uprising Monument was designed by Alfred Wiśniewski and unveiled on September 19, 1965. The monument itself is a granite-covered 17 metre tall tower decorated with reliefs that depict the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska struggle, including the student strike in Września, famed Polish revolutionary Marcin Kasprzak, and the death of the first upriser Franciszek Ratajczak.QF‑9, Corner of ul. Królowej Jadwigi and ul. Wierzbięcice. 45

Enigma | Art, History & Culture

Enigma Exposed The story of how three students from Poznań helped the Allies crack the German Enigma Code during WWII. The vital role played by Polish exiles during the Battle of Britain, who represented one in eight Allied pilots and whose 303 Squadron boasted the best hit rate against the Luftwaffe, is today fairly common knowledge in the UK. As is the role Polish forces played in breaking the siege of Monte Cassino, and the daring raid on Dieppe in 1942. A lesser known Polish contribution towards the Allied victory in 1945, but equally significant, is the battle that took place inside the minds of Poland’s finest academics to crack the German Enigma code. It all began in Poznań, namely in the mathematics class of the university. Ace students Jerzy Różycki, Marian Rejewski and Henryk Zygalski came to the attention of Polish intelligence services on account of their excellent German skills - Poznan used to be German, after all - and sharp mathematical minds. Recruited to attend cryptology courses in Warsaw alongside 17 other Poznań University alumni, the three were set to work in 1932 on cracking German ciphers. It was in the city’s Saxon Palace, which served as the seat of the Polish General Staff, they made the first vital Enigma breakthrough using a mathematical theorem since described as ‘the theorem that won WWII.’ 46

On the day before the Nazi invasion of Poland the three fled to Romania where they immediately sought contact with the Allies. Originally they turned up at the British Embassy in Bucharest, but having been told to ‘come back in a few days’ decided to try their luck with the French instead. This proved more successful and from there they found themselves in France, working in Cadix, a secret intelligence cell operating in the unoccupied south. With the risk of discovery by the Germans growing greater the team were forced to flee. Różycki drowned at sea in 1942 after the boat that carried him sank under suspicious circumstances; Zygalski and Rejewski however made it to Spain, in spite of being robbed by the man guiding them over the Pyrenees. More calamity followed: the remaining pair were arrested by Spanish police and imprisoned, but freed the following year after intervention by the Red Cross. Seeking sanctuary in England they were employed in Boxmoor cracking simple SS codes. In spite of having done the groundwork that broke the original Enigma code their knowledge was not called on by the American and British codebreakers who were cracking new and improved Enigma codes at Bletchley Park, hence the vital Polish contribution has been allowed to fade in the memory.

Art, History & Culture | Enigma After the war Rejewski returned to Poland where he spent the rest of his days under scrutiny from internal security services, and working in a succession of menial jobs. When he published his life story in 1973 he became an unwitting superstar, and his work was finally recognised with a series of honours. He died in 1980, buried in Warsaw’s Powązki Cemetery. Zygalski chose to remain in England and spent the postwar years working as a math teacher. He died in 1978 and is buried in London. Although the trio have since received numerous posthumous awards, their role in winning the war remains a little-known fact in the West, a cause not helped by silver screen rubbish like the 2001 movie Enigma. In recent years, recognition for the Polish codebreakers has come, even if sometimes it’s only a passing remark such as Alan Turing’s about an ‘old Polish code’ in The Imitation Game (2014). Since 1983 a memorial tablet at Poznań University’s Collegium Maius has been in place honouring the three lads, and in 2007 a monument placed in front of the Imperial Castle (p.23) followed suit. 2021 was the year when the city finally unveiled a stateof-the-art interactive museum dedicated to their achievement - the Enigma Cipher Centre, which we highly recommend visiting.

Enigma Cryptologist Monument Designed by Grażyna Bielska–Kozakiewicz and Mariusz Kozakiewicz, this triangular prism with sequences of numbers commemorates the power trio of Różycki, Rejewski, and Zygalski. The monument was unveiled in 2007 and stands right in front of Poznań’s Imperial Castle, which was a university building in the pre-war years. Just next door is the sparkling new Enigma Cipher Centre.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (main entrance to the Imperial Castle).

Inside the new Enigma Cipher Centre

The Enigma Cipher Centre

NEW With such a significant claim to fame, it’s a surprise that it took Poznań until 2021 to open a museum dedicated to its three enigmatic cryptologists. It was worth the wait, though. This modern, interactive gem of a museum is a dive into the history of cryptology in general as well as the story of the Enigma specifically. Targeted more towards visitors with a keen interest in math and puzzles, the centre is filled with stations where they can try their hand at encoding and decoding messages using various ciphers, from slide rules to the hybrid Polybius Playfair cipher to onetime pads. If that’s not your cup of tea, no matter - the nicely prepared audioguide will lead you through the exhibits with minimal interruptions. Allow at least two hours if you want to listen through its entirety and check out some additional info on touchscreens. The exhibition finishes with a small section on the postwar IT revolution, which includes two Commodore 64 emulators with a selection of classic video games, which you can play to your heart’s content. Geeks unite! QF‑7, ul. Święty Marcin 78, tel. (+48) 61 888 45 12, www.csenigma.pl/en. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:0019:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 40zł. U 47

1956 Uprising | Art, History & Culture

1956 Uprising The Poznań Riots, or the ‘1956 Uprising’ (because PL loves its Uprisings), was the first recognised strike and street demonstration in communist Poland. Although brutally suppressed, this show of the people’s strength remains an intense source of pride for the local community, and though it would be another 33 years until the people of Poland would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlin, the uprising led to a significant liberalisation of Soviet policy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980 Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth of the Solidarity movement. The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certain degree of optimism among Poles, promising an end to the social and political terror associated with the Soviet Union’s hegemony of Central and Eastern Europe. Hopes were short-lived, however, as Nikita Khruschev’s address to the 20th Convention of the USSR’s Communist Party in 1956 spoke of strengthening socialism’s grip on the East, and of the dangers of individualism. Simmering with discontent the Polish media helped stir local discord and on June 28th strikes broke out in Poznań’s factories – first in the Stalin brick factory (later the ‘Hipolita Cegielskiego Factory’), before spreading to the city’s other major industrial plants. An estimated 100,000 workers descended on the Municipal National Council (housed in the Imperial Castle, p.23), chanting slogans like ‘Bread and Freedom’ and ‘Out with Bolshevism,’ while demanding lower prices, higher wages and a reduction in work quotas. 48

Art, History & Culture | 1956 Uprising Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn when it was revealed that the team negotiating on behalf of the strikers in Warsaw had been arrested and detained by the authorities. Infuriated, the demonstrators stormed Poznań prison, liberating 257 inmates, destroying records and seizing armaments. Armed with assorted small arms and petrol bombs, the insurgents marched back to the city centre to continue their protests. With a volatile atmosphere threatening to run out of control, the communist authorities reacted by deploying 10,300 soldiers, 400 tanks and 30 armoured personnel carriers to Poznań. Fierce street battles followed, but with the city cut off from the outside world, order was quickly restored by June 30th. The clashes officially left 76 civilians and eight soldiers dead, with over 600 strikers injured (though unofficial estimates were vastly higher). Victims included a thirteen year old boy shot through the heart while waving a Polish flag, and the news of the riots helped spark an equally heroic anti-communist uprising in Budapest. Although Poland was to suffer another three decades of communist control, the riots had a huge influence in the shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish Communist Party was left reeling from the chaos, and several Stalinist hardliners found themselves dismissed in a bid to appease the people, as limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of press censorship followed. A museum commemorating the events of 1956 in the Imperial Castle is worth visiting to really understand the momentous events of the ‘Poznań June.’

What to See 1956 Uprising Monument However impressive the nearby Adam Mickiewicz statue is, he finds himself outshone by the soaring 1956 Uprising Monument. Made of steel, the two crosses (21 and 19 metres for the number crunchers) were unveiled on June 28th, 1981, the 25th anniversary of one of the first Polish rebellions against Soviet control. A tablet commemorates a visit by Pope John Paul II in 1997, while close by is an excellent multi-lingual electronic information point filled with facts about the uprising.QF‑7, Pl. Mickiewicza.

1956 Uprising Museum The Imperial Castle is an impressive building alright, but pride of place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden down a side entrance, this basement masterpiece features a tank, stretchers used to carry the wounded, a display of arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s, and a direct copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, was the space set aside for 13-year-old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits included his harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Nov-Feb open 10:00-16:00; Mon closed. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. U Inside the 1956 Uprising Museum.

Activities & Experiences

Activities & Recreation Limbering up at Lake Malta (p.52) | Photo by Marcin Welc

Poznań: the city of recreation? Could very well be. With the Warta River flowing right through it and numerous lakes, the city has plenty of activities to offer those who enjoy the water. We’ve written extensively about some of those activities in this issue’s feature about the Warta River (p.8). But there’s more: two of the city’s most important urban recreation areas are the 89-hectare Citadel Park - full of leafy promenades, historical monuments, and museums, and Lake Malta - a manmade lake surrounded by attractions ranging from the New Zoo to skiing and skating in the winter to toboggan runs and mini golf in the warmer months. We cover both of these in this section of our guide. For more outdoor activities, consider Jeżyce’s Old Zoo and Botanical Garden (both p.30), and for a few rainy-day ideas check out the listings below.

Cinemas

recovered by pre-war proprietors), but its ever-loyal followers have stuck by it. A warm atmosphere awaits you inside and the little foyer is decked out in low lighting, old film posters, and hundreds of pictures of famous actors and actresses. Comprising three intimate rooms (‘Charlie’ with 30 seats, ‘Marilyn’ with 37, and ‘Audrey’ with just 13), as the website claims, it aims to be a place for people ‘to meet without barriers,’ including those ‘on roller blades, bicycles, and with guide dogs’. The repertoire consists of a healthy choice of both world and European cinema, the occasional concert, and if you’re bold enough you can even get them to project your favourite movie by request!QH‑9, ul. Rybaki 6A, tel. (+48) 61 877 24 95, www.kinomalta. pl. Box office open from 15 minutes before the first showtime until the last performance. Tickets 20/18zł.

Charlie Monroe Kino Malta

Pałacowe

Formerly located up in Śródka, Kino Malta was given a central location and a new name in 2011 following a scuffle with the original building’s legal owners (communist shenanigans - the house was made state property during People’s Republic times and recently

This in-castle cinema dates back to 1965, when it opened in a former throne room. A thorough renovation conducted in the years 2009-2012 cast out the spirit of communist Poland past, elevating the sound and image quality to established 21st-century

Activities & Experiences standards. The theatre now holds 143 little thrones for royal film enthusiasts and hosts occasional discussions and meetings.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (Zamek Cultural Centre), tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek. pl. Box office open 10:00-21:00. Tickets 20/17zł, Tue 12zł.

Rialto Situated in the district of Jeżyce, Rialto is one of our top picks and it’s dead easy to get to. As well as showing plenty of independent films, you can also find a good balance of more commercial flicks. Twice nominated for the Polish Film Institute Promotion of Polish Cinema award, Rialto certainly plays a big role when it comes to spreading the word of moving pictures and has no problem getting people through its doors. On Sundays at 12:00 families are invited to ‘Eurobajka’ when kids can watch movies and take part in workshops. As well as organising talks with actors, Rialto puts on educational programmes for local schools and shows short films once a month. Swing by on a Thursday to take advantage of 13zł tickets (or a Wednesday if you have a valid student ID).QC‑6, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 61 847 53 99, www. kinorialto.poznan.pl. Open 15:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 12:0021:00. In the case of earlier screenings, the box office opens half an hour before the screening. Tickets 13-22zł.

Spa & Beauty Thai-Land Massage Sightseeing can be hard work, and sometimes a bit of relaxation time is in order. Be it a traditional Thai foot massage, a hot coconut oil massage, or a classic full body massage, it’s all done by Thai masseuses at this splendid parlour located a leisurely ten-minute walk away from the Main Square. Monthly promotions and passes give customers a welcome discount, so do try to take advantage of those.QH‑8, ul. Długa 14/2A, www.thai-land.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Thai Smile Massage Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fine massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English speaking staff ) only five minutes from the Main Square, Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget about the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to choose from and a range of massage types including herbal compress massage, foot massage, and sports massage is enough for the IYP staff to give this place the thumbs up.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel. (+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. 51

Lake Malta | Activities & Experiences

Lake Malta Photo courtesy of POSiR

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Activities & Experiences | Lake Malta Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an ice-rink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a worldclass regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta. Lake Malta just outside of Poznań is a must-do for summertime outdoor activities in Greater Poland! Adrenaline Alpine Coaster

Maltese Baths Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this yearround facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of 16 pools including a wave pool and children’s play pool), and 13 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex (Spa 1306) with underground thermal springs, offering therapeutic and beauty baths including Turkish Hammam and Rasul mud bath, massage, hydromassage, rehabilitation, Pollogen slimming and rejuvenating treatments, and more from the fully trained staff. QP‑8, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www. termymaltanskie.com.pl. Open 06:00-23:00; Sun 07:0023:00; SPA open 11:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Malta Ski Pontoon Hire Our first thought was boat rental, but nope, that would be too conventional for Lake Malta. This what happens to Poz’s 70m artificial ski slope in summer (May to the end of September to be exact) - people go speeding down it in plastic inner tubes.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski. pl. Open 11:00-20:00. Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride 5zł; 3 rides 10zł. Prices subject to change.

Malta Ski Mini Golf 18 hole mini golf course overlooking Lake Malta; hours and availability weather-dependent.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 11:0020:00. Admission 20/15zł. Prices subject to change.

Adrenaline Alpine Coaster A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops (even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors around the track at 40km per hour.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 11:00-

20:00. Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a 1-person cart 12zł; 3 rides 25zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart 17zł; 3 rides 35zł. Prices subject to change.

Maltanka Mini Railway Pleasing the paying public since 1956, this is one of the last 600mm narrow gauge railways in PL, faithfully pulled by ‘Borsuk’ (Badger) - a steam engine with two whistles. Operating from late April to late September, it’s a unique attraction for rail buffs, and also a great way to view Malta. Better still, this is one of the most practical ways to get to the ‘New Zoo’ – catch it from the Maltanka stop near Rondo Śródka (M-6) and ride it to the end, namely the Zwierzyniec stop at the zoo. Trains run on the hour Mon-Fri and on the half hour Sat-Sun, with the first ride at 10:00 and the last one at 18:30; tickets 10/7zł.QM‑7, tel. (+48) 61 839 66 90, www.mpk.poznan.pl/turystyka/maltanka. Open 10:00-19:00.

Getting There Lake Malta is situated just to the east of Poznań’s city centre, and Rondo Śródka - at the lake’s northwest corner, is the best place to access it. Below are the public transport options from three main points in the centre. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore will cost about 30-35zł. From the Main Train Station: Take tram number 6 from the ‘Poznań Główny’ stop (walk just past the Avenida shopping centre going east) directly to ‘Baraniaka’. The journey takes about 14 minutes. From the Old Town Square: Take tram number 3, 4, or 17 from either ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’ or ‘Małe Garbary’ to ‘Rondo Śródka’. 53

Lake Malta | Activities & Experiences

Lake Rusałka

Malta Ski Outdoor Playground Wooden playground with slides, mazes, and obstacles. Opening hours are weather-dependent.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 11:00-20:00. Admission free.

Pyrland Park

If lakes Malta and Rusałka were siblings (and in a sense they are), Rusałka would be the athletic and attention-seeking Malta’s mysteriously beautiful and slightly introverted sister. Indeed, the lake’s very name - derived from Slavic mythology and denoting a water nymph or mermaid - belies the area’s natural wonder and allure. While Lake Malta is favoured by families and sportsmen, the slightly smaller Rusałka has long been favoured by naturalists, fishermen, hikers, cyclists, and photographers, and is characterised by 3,300 metres of largely wooded coastline woven with intimate walking paths, ancient trees (a group of which near the north shore are a designated natural monument), misty streams, and several forgotten war memorials. Like Lake Malta, Rusałka is a man-made reservoir initiated during WWII, but in contrast to her younger brother, Rusałka’s shores are almost entirely devoid of commercial development and provide a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in a natural setting without leaving the city centre. That’s not to say that this old girl doesn’t know how to have fun, however. In summertime a designated section of the northern coast becomes Poznań’s most popular swimming and sun-bathing destination, overseen by lifeguards and offering water sports equipment rental and a children’s playground. The beachside Rusałka restaurant, while quite low-rated (visit at your own risk), serves as a back-up plan for those who forgot to bring their own snacks. If you prefer to wander a bit, nearby points of interest include Sołacz (p.30) - which leads directly into Lake Rusałka’s eastern shore - and the Botanical Garden (p.30) on the southern shore. For those fascinated by Poland’s painful past, Rusałka also conceals several unkempt WWII-era memorials and mausoleums, and the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (p.42) is within walking distance of the south shore. 54

Open April-October. Located on the east end of Lake Malta, this adventure park features 4 ropes courses (3 large ones and one smaller one for kids over 3 years old) and two Tyrolkas - sweet 70m zip lines. If you need a rest afterwards, there are two designated picnic areas with bonfire and BBQ options.Qul. Abpa A. Baraniaka/Chartowo, tel. (+48) 660 04 89 01, www.pyrlandpark.pl. Open Fri 13:0017:30, Sat, Sun 10:00-17:30 only. Rope courses 25-39zł each, or 40-99zł for combination; kids 20zł; family ticket (2 adults plus 1 kid) 85-95zł. Tyrolka 23zł (10zł with ropes course ticket).

The New Zoo The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over 2,000 beasts representing nearly 350 species, it’s comprised of 60 percent pine and mixed forests with a man-made stream and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang is a seasonal mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump off at whatever creature cage takes their fancy. As the zoo is located beyond the far east end of Lake Malta (not actually on the lake), during the warm season (April-September) you can get there by taking the Maltanka mini-railway to the last stop, ‘Zwierzyniec’. If coming from the centre of Poz, take tram 3, 4, 8, or 17 from ‘Plac Wielkopolski’ to ‘Rondo Śródka’, then change to bus 184, getting off at ‘Nowe ZOO’. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre costs about 30zł. Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00-17:00. From April open 09:00-19:00. Admission 10zł. U

Toboggan Run Pepsi Hit speeds of 50km on this summer toboggan run, a daredevil experience that twists and turns the foolish and the brave over the course of a 530 metre track. Open in the warm season, from approximately May depending on weather.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 11:00-20:00. 10zł for one dash, 20zł for three. Kids under 8 free. Prices subject to change.

Citadel Park | Activities & Experiences

Citadel Park Photo by Radoslaw Maciejewski

Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89 hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic overlook has a long history that involves multiple name changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of monuments, museums and historical tales.

Poznań Army Museum Re-opened after a long renovation, the museum provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the city’s military history, with a particular focus on WWII and the inter-war period. A large number of items from these times are on display, including various newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos, and uniforms. But other eras are covered too, with some artefacts such as old bullets and army storage devices - dating back as far as 1897. Note that the ticket also includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments, also located in Citadel Park.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. from March to October: Mon closed, Tue-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00; from November to February: Mon closed, Tue-Sun 10:00-16:00. Admission 12/6zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Museum of Armaments. U 56

British Military Cemetery Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here that you’ll find the graves of several of the men involved in what is now known as “the Great Escape” (it wasn’t just a movie, folks!). In addition, the cemetery houses graves of servicemen from WWI (all of whom died in various parts of Poland as POWs), and those who died in bombing operations over what is now the Polish city of Szczecin.QH‑4, Park Cytadela. Open from dawn till dusk.

Monument to the Heroes of the Poznań Citadel One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the Soviet Obelisk located prominently at the top of the grand staircase as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznań (H-4). The giant Socialist Realism column

Getting There If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer a quicker route can grab bus numbers 174, 176, 190, or 603 from ‘Wielka’ to ‘Garbary’.

Activities & Experiences | Citadel Park is dedicated to the Russian soldiers killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large red star affixed to the top which disappeared in the dead of night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Official complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored by police, and for years the public was left to speculate what became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star was filled with jewels proved to be one popular urban myth). In recent years, however, a local journalist looking into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it: local firemen had removed the star using their rescue ladders. They fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on display at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QH‑4, Park Cytadela.

Museum of Armaments The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World War II) proved to be the perfect location for the Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various (mostly Nazi and Soviet) weaponry and ammunition, a dynamic diorama showing anti-tank gun positions, and photos of battles from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buffs, however, is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole host of war machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket launcher, bombers, and a MIG-15. QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www. wmn.poznan.pl/odwiedz-nas/muzeum-uzbrojenia/. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. from March to October: Mon closed, Tue-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00; from November to February: Mon closed, Tue-Sun 10:00-16:00. Admission 12/6zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Poznań Army Museum.

British Military Cemetery

‘The Unrecognised’ art installation by Magda Abakanowicz Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is officially titled “The Unrecognised” (“Nierozpoznani”). 112 in all, each measuring 2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work of local arts grad and international art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is keeping mum on its meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar installation in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s headless fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QI‑3, Park Cytadela.

Rose Garden Certainly one of the nicest and most popular parts of Citadel Park, particularly in fine weather, is the ‘rosarium.’ Consisting of six landscaped terraces planted with different roses, trees, and shrubs descending to a small lake at its centre, this is perhaps Poz’s most romantic corner, as evidenced by all the couples getting very cosy on the numerous benches scattered about. Go for a stroll, stop to smell the roses, and maybe sneak in a snog on the side.QH‑2, Park Cytadela.

The Bell of Peace & Friendship Among Nations

Photo courtesy of City of Poznań

Erected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a largely turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the remembering when it’s rung on holidays and anniversaries such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans capitulated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850 kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QI‑4, Park Cytadela. 57

Just Friends, p.63

Dining in Poznań Gastronomy has grown considerably in Poznań, and the city is home to a large number of hipster and world-class restaurants serving a wide range of cuisines. At right we highlight some must-try regional dishes, while over the following pages you’ll find Poznań’s most noteworthy dining establishments, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego! 58

Dining | Regional Dishes

Essential Eats Though much of their cuisine is shared with Poland as a whole, Poznań and the wider Wielkopolska region do have some of the most distinctive dishes in the country. Here are a few picks smacznego! Potatoes with gzik Nearly ubiquitous as a starter in Poznań’s Polish restaurants, gzik is made of quark cheese mixed with cream and chives or radish. Served together with jacket potatoes, this 19th century peasant dish is known as ‘pyra z gzikiem’ in local parlance and recognizable across Poland as a Wielkopolska creation. It’s vegetarian-friendly, too, which isn’t often the case with traditional cuisine.

Roast duck Whereas in most corners of Poland, until fairly recently, Peking duck was an eyebrow-raising oddity, and ‘edible’ poultry was limited to chicken and turkey, Wielkopolska has long liked its kaczka. Traditionally served roasted with cabbage, apples, and dumplings, duck has recently also founds its way into pierogi and even burgers. You’ll find that this is the star of the menu in many Polish restaurants in the city.

Grey dumplings / Szare kluchy Grey - the #1 least appetising colour. Unfortunately, that’s just the hue raw potatoes turn after you shred them, a necessary step in the making of this regional dish. After shredding, the potatoes are mixed with egg and flour and cooked to lumpy perfection. Traditionally accompanied by sauerkraut, szare kluchy aren’t exactly fashionable anymore, though they seem to be making a bit of a comeback.

St. Martin’s Croissants Traditionally prepared for St. Martin’s Day (November 11th), a big deal in Poz thanks to a church named after the saint, these sweet treats have become a local trademark. Filled with a poppy seed and almond paste and topped with a healthy pile of sugary glaze, the pastries date back to at least 1860. They’re ubiquitous in November, but can be found in some bakeries year-round. 59

Breakfast & Coffee | Dining

Breakfast & Coffee PETIT PARIS Boulangerie

ALEkosmos One of our favourite breakfast spots, ALEkosmos recently moved to a new, larger locale, making room not just for a lush tangle of houseplants (some planted in a bathtub), but also for an upsized menu. On our last visit, we were knocked off our feet by the avocado toast with red pesto, cherry tomatoes, eggs, and greens, but there are many other enticing dishes to try as well, from Italian foccacia with ricotta cheese and Parma ham to challah bread French toast with blueberry jam, sour cream, and caramelised almaonds. Breakfast is served until 14:00; after that, you can pop in for coffee and cake.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 43, tel. (+48) 507 86 33 04. Open 09:0019:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. €. B6

Kawiarnia Stragan Obnoxious in principle, but perfectly warm and inviting in actuality, Stragan adheres to some stringent self-imposed rules, including a non60

negotiable no-Americano policy (they also refuse to make scrambled eggs). Instead, they’re committed to serving top-notch alternatively-brewed coffee, using all the new-fangled (or just currently trendy) methods like drip-brewing, aeropress, Chemex, and siphon; boxes of equipment are displayed on the back wall and available for sale, as are coffee beans. The dedication shows: their coffee was among the best we’ve tasted, so give it a go if you’re a caffeine enthusiast. Light breakfast is served as well.QG‑7, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31, tel. (+48) 789 23 39 65, www. craftcoffee.pl. Open 08:00-21:00. TB6

Mówish Mash Specialty coffee, several varieties of homemade cheesecake, and (mercifully optional) language lessons are the order of the day at this cosy and modern Jeżyce cafe. The attention to detail here is praiseworthy: coffee comes served with a laminated bit of paper describing the bean variety, origin, and

Dining | Breakfast & Coffee flavour profile, so some learning is unavoidable after all. Those keen on improving their English or Spanish can set up lessons with a private tutor, which take place in a separate section of the cafe (85zł/h, with a beverage included in the price). A rotation of tasty breakfast dishes is served before 14:00 on weekdays and all day on weekends.QC‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 41, tel. (+48) 573 93 89 89, www.mowishmash.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Mon. B6

Pączuś i Kawusia Should you wander out to the largely residential Łazarz district (p.32) - known for its Palm House, swanky City Park complex, old-school open air market, and mild state of disrepair - definitely aim for a pit stop at this charming cafe just off the district’s main square. Called ‘donut and coffee’, the selection of treats won’t surprise you, but the quality will - the delicious pączki (Polish hole-less doughnuts) are homemade, often warm, and come in a variety of fillings, and the specialty coffee is brewed using a number of alternative methods. Recommended. QC‑11, Ul. Rynek Łazarski 8, tel. (+48) 513 41 01 14. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Mon, Sun. TB6

PETIT PARIS Boulangerie A perfect breakfast option and a welcome opportunity to get yourself over to the art-filled Stary Browar (p.18). At this French bakery, the most important meal of the day is served all day everyday. Choose from classics like croque madame, crepes, croissants, tartines and more - all made from authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh bread that is baked on-site. You’ll find a second location in the Sołacz district (p.30), Aleja Wielkopolska 40a.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55, www.petitparis. com.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. €. U6

Uno Absolutely smashing breakfast and specialty coffee (cold brew, chemex, aeropress, the works) in a typical ‘cool 2010s interior’of exposed brick, light wood, plants, and wall art - pleasant. The menu changes regularly, but expect elevated versions of popular brekkie dishes like waffles (served, for example, with ricotta and rhubarb), shakshouka (with roasted eggplant and feta cheese), and avocado toast, with a strong focus on local ingredients, from artisanal sausages to freshly baked sourdough bread. You can even grab yourself a bag of coffee beans recommended by the knowledgeable staff. Recommended.QC‑6, ul. Bolesława Prusa 4/2, tel. (+48) 501 03 17 87, www. unoespresso.pl/kawiarnia. Open 08:00-15:00; Sat 09:0015:00; closed Sun. €€. 6 61

Casual | Dining

Casual dining Petit Paris Sołacz (p.64)

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen. DOMU Kitchen & Friends utensils International Put on an apron and dig into a stack of BBQ ribs with your bare hands at this laid-back Polish-AmericanItalian establishment, then wash it down with their home-made apple alc. Those less willing to get their hands dirty can choose from pasta, pizza, burgers, fish&chips, and more. As a nice touch, recommended

wine pairings are listed next to many of the entrees and appetisers. On Friday and Saturday DOMU is a common ‘before party’ venue, so expect loud music after 22:00 as revellers line their stomachs for a long night of boozing.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 61 424 10 42, www.restauracjadomu.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. TB6

Symbol & Price Key

6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside Seating

X Smoking room available

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

Dining | Casual Falla utensils Vegetarian Falafel bowls so good, they make us want to weep. From the assorted pickles to the creamy hummus to the highly addictive seasoned pita bread, Falla churns out dishes that are not only expertly prepared, but also beautifully presented. First-timers will be wise to go for Fatima’s Hand, an impressive assortment of Falla’s best creations, which actually does come in the shape of a hand. Also on the menu: seasonal dishes taking advantage of whatever Polish greengrocers currently have to offer, harira soup, Tel Aviv eggplant, wraps, shakshouka, cocktails, and more. All this in a warm and stylish interior with industrial elements, squirrelled away in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Recommended.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 576 95 04 73, www.fallawege.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. T6

Social Night Market

Fat Bob Burger utensils Quick Eats Considered one of the best burgers in town (which is saying something considering PL’s recent infatuation with gourmet fast food), FBB has been drawing rave reviews from critics and ordinary meat lovers alike. Made with fresh ingredients, high-quality beef, and home-made buns, these meaty concoctions are both extra filling and a little more sophisticated than what you’d get at the drive-thru. For the vegetarian crowd, there’s a grilled halloumi option.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 21, tel. (+48) 794 93 93 33. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00; closed Mon. Opening hours subject to change. €€. U6

Hyćka utensils Polish While many restaurants in Poznań serve traditional Wielkopolska duck (with cabbage, apples, and dumplings) and pyry z gzikiem (potatoes with cottage cheese), Hyćka is the most reliable spot to sample a wider array of regional eats, including czernina (duck blood soup), grey dumplings, ‘szagówki’ dumplings, and the namesake hyćka - an elderflower cordial. Though the decor isn’t spectacular and there are better places to eat in Śródka, it’s still worth keeping this place on your radar if you’re after very authentic Poznań fare.QL‑6, Rynek Śródecki 17, tel. (+48) 535 04 50 35, www.hycka.pl. Open 11:00-21:00; Mon 12:0020:00; Sat 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. T6

Read and review over 130 Poznań restaurants online

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Photo by Piotr Krupa

Open May-September, this summertime food truck extravaganza is where all the cool kids go to eat, drink and socialise. Co-organised by one of our favourite eateries, Falla, it takes place Wednesday-Sunday in and around a rusty old railway depot still filled with abandoned trains. Regular concerts spice up the evenings, while the food trucks and food shacks dole out Mexican, Asian, burgers, vegan eats, ice cream, and more. Getting here is a bit complex, requiring changing trams, so check jakdojade.pl/poznan for an upto-date tram schedule or just get an Uber.Qul. Kolejowa 23, tel. (+48) 506 20 32 14. Open 16:0024:00; Fri 16:00-05:00; Sat 14:00-05:00; Sun 14:0024:00; closed Mon, Tue. B

Just Friends Beer & Food utensils International A place made for hanging out with your crew, Just Friends specialises in shareable dishes like meat or veggie platters which can feed up to six: think burgers, wings, tacos, fries, falafel, hummus, and more. There are also finger food boards, good old Polish-style drinking snacks (herring, pickles, hard-boiled eggs, kiełbasa) and respectable entrees including fish & chips, pasta, and bao buns. The alc is shareable, too: if you want to go all out, oder a 3L ‘giga drink’ or a 2.5L ‘beer tower’ which will keep your companions happy for a good chunk of the night. Located right on the main square, Just Friends makes for a convenient pre-party fueling point.QH‑7, ul. Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. (+48) 570 99 99 00. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:0024:00. €€. TB6 63

Casual | Dining Min’s Table

U Aipo

utensils Asian Good Asian food is something we’ve come to expect from Poznań, and this trendy hole-in-the-wall churning out authentic Korean cuisine - made by Min herself - certainly lives up to expectations. Sit around the communal table and choose from six bibimbap options or go for japchae (sweet potato noodles), toppokki (rice and fish cakes), dakgangjeong (crispy fried chicken), kimchi dumplings, or subak hwachae (watermelon punch). Cashless payments only.QC‑6, ul. Kraszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 792 35 03 80, www. minstable.kr. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. €€. 6

utensils Kyrgyz This delightful, bright, and simply-decorated holein-the-wall serves a truly underrepresented cuisine Kyrgyz - and Poznaniaks are flocking in to try it. The menu is short and to the point, offering the greatest Central Asian culinary hits: lamb kuurdak (meat with potatoes and onions), lagman (a brothy soup with hand-pulled noodles and meat), manty and samsa dumplings, a few salads, and milk tea made by the Kyrgyz owner, Aipo, herself.QC‑6, ul. Szamarzewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 609 65 53 18. Open 12:00-21:00. €€. B6

Na Winklu utensils Polish Boiled pierogi with meat or cheese and potatoes can be had in countless restaurants in Poznań, but Śródka’s Na Winklu (On the Corner) goes beyond, focusing on baked dumplings instead. Hide away in their small but hip interior and sample creations with unorthodox ingredients like dried tomatoes and mozzarella, liver and apple, blood sausage, or Mexican-style ground beef.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 1, tel. (+48) 796 14 50 04. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. U6

utensils Polish Just what you expect from a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff, and a huge menu of hearty grub like bread with pickles and lard, bigos, potato pancakes, pierogi, regional duck and more. We enjoyed the żurek (sour rye) soup and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to go - they’re located just off the market square.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. TU6

Petit Paris Sołacz

Wypas

utensils French Their location in Stary Browar might be more central, but to get away from the Old Town crowds and relax with a glass of lavender lemonade or Prosecco we recommend making your way over to Sołacz. Here you can sit in the garden right next to Park Sołacki and enjoy French baked goods, crepes, quiches, salads, confit duck, and all-day breakfast. There’s even a small delicatessen where you can buy various preserves and sweets. Bon appétit!QD‑3, Aleja Wielkopolska 40A, tel. + (48) 61 890 56 03, www.petitparis.com.pl. Open 8:00-21:00; Sun 9:00-20:00. TUB6

utensils Vegetarian Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, Wypas is known for heaping plates of “a bit of everything”; choose your adventure from Japanese, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Polish, or Spanish - or perhaps a nice ol’ bowl of ramen or tom kha soup. Bring your eating pants (trousers for you Brits) and wrestle local plant-eaters for seats at this below-ground hole-inthe-wall.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 796 14 41 15, www.wypas.co. Open 12:30-18:30. €€. TBS6

Ramen-Ya utensils Japanese This hole-in-the-wall might be tiny, awkwardly furnished, and somewhat rudimentary, but boy is the ramen good. After the success of Yetztu on ul. Krysiewicza it looked like Poznań didn’t need any more ramen joints, and yet these boys knocked the ball out of the park. The menu consists of meaty and vegan ramen variations, including shoyu, shio, tonkotsu, kimchi, and mazamen, plus snacks like gyoza dumplings; the cooks know their stuff and food arrives super fast. While not exactly the place for an extended sit-down, this is one of our favourite spots for a quick bite of something good.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 4, tel. (+48) 731 09 73 58. Open 12:00-21:00. €€. 6 64

Wiejskie Jadło

Zielona Weranda utensils International Not the easiest place to find, which makes its discovery (head into what looks like a shop to find it tucked away at the back) even more of a pleasant surprise. Clearly a labour of love as reflected by beautiful paper decorations set against the mismatch of wooden furnishings, exposed brick, and copious shrubbery. Spread over a number of small rooms, this is one of our favourite lunch spots with a tasty, well-prepared range of soups, salads, burgers, and entrees like Poznań duck and roast salmon. The tea, coffee, and cake options are so encyclopaedic, the only challenge is deciding what to order.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 789 40 11 91, www.werandafamily.com. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. €€. TB6

Dining | Casual

BEST SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE DESTINATION IN POZNAN 240 SHOPS & BOUTIQUES 40 CAFES & RESTAURANTS POSNANIA.EU | PLESZEWSKA 1, POZNAŃ

Upscale | Dining

Fine dining Port Sołacz

Figaro utensils Italian Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal, and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city. Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired out for those extra special occasions. The kitchen closes at 22:00 Mon-Sat, so don’t leave your culinary feast till the last minute.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafigaro.eu. Open 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-17:00. €€€. T6

Kyokai Sushi Bar utensils Japanese The City Park development just to the west of the centre (past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of Poznań’s most notable Japanese 66

efforts. The suhi is fresh and delicious, of course, and the menu also includes teriyaki beef, gyoza dumplings, misoshiru soup, various green teas, and other Japanese delights. Set in a series of converted red brick buildings, the surroundings look chic and sexy, as do the clientele. Definitely one to check out; to get here, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.QA‑8, ul. Wojskowa 4 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www. kyokai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. TUB6

Port Sołacz

NEW utensils International Located right in the middle of Park Sołacki, Port Sołacz is a nice place to properly chill out while exploring the Jeżyce and Sołacz neighbourhoods - an experience out of a Monet painting, the owners claim, and we are inclined to agree. This pretty building was actually built in 1911 to show off at the Eastern German Expo in Poznań. Originally a winery, it was moved from the Trade Fairs grounds to Park Sołacki in 1912, and has served as a restaurant ever since. Now you can sit in the sophisticated and airy interior overlooking the park ponds and indulge in culinary creations like

Dining | Upscale glazed cauliflower with crunchy halloumi, chicken with arancini and cider-braised leeks, or cod with cockles.QC‑3, ul. Litewska 22, tel. (+48) 696 10 22 25, www.portsolacz.pl. Opening hours subject to change. €€€.

Ratuszova utensils Polish One of the longest-running establishments in town, and with good reason. Located right on the main square, Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method not found in many other Poznań restaurants. If the beautiful and unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics such as steak, roast duck with apple, duck pierogi, sour rye soup, fresh fish, and other Polish standards, or pop in just for coffee and cake. Two-course, dailyspecial lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Kitchen open 12:00-22:00, restaurant open till the last guest. €€€. T6

SPOT. utensils International Fashion, design, and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late 19th-century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services, it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent restaurant, which should be your main motivation for visiting. Sporting a smart post-industrial swagger with monochrome colours, exposed bricks, and retro kitsch decor, the atmosphere is inspired, and the menu offers sophisticated European cuisine accented by Asian flavours, including vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. With craft beer, a large selection of wines, and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best.Qul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40, www.spot.poznan.pl. Open 10:30-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:30-23:00; Sun 10:30-19:00; closed Mon. €€€. TU6

Thai Thai utensils Thai From fresh oysters, monkfish in red curry, and crispy duck, to classics like pad thai, green curry, and mango with sticky rice, this high-end Thai chain prepares veritable Southeast Asian feasts in a refined interior with dark wood, floral lattices, and Buddha ornaments. Top the experience off with a bottle of fine red, or try the 39zł lunches, served from 12:00 till 16:00 on weekdays.QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 885 19 98 85, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. TB6 67

Bars | Nightlife

Partying in Poznań | Photo by Grzegorz Babicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań

Nightlife in Poznań Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars will stay open until the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego (G-6), ul. Taczaka (F/G-8), beach bars on the shores of the Warta River (p.8), and Łazarz’s Social Night Market (p.63), all of which draw students in droves. 68

Nightlife | Bars

Bars

Beach Bars

Bistro Tancereczka An assortment of snacks and small dishes like beef tartare, potato pancakes, and potatoes with quark cheese accompany a large selection of booze including vodka (they even make their own pearflavoured kind), craft beer, Prosecco, and mixed drinks. It’s loud, it’s hip - there’s simply no escaping the exposed brick, fairy lights, and street-inspired wall art - and the folks here are having a good time. You can even purchase small bottles of that pear vodka as souvenirs for the whomever you left back home. QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18 (entrance from ul. Jaskółcza), tel. (+48) 730 90 15 48. Open 18:00-02:00; Wed, Thu 18:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-07:00. 6

Brovaria Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s certainly become established as the main expat haunt since the demise of Dom Vikingów. Yet while it feels an ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the best: enjoy it.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. B

Cooliozum We were a little sceptical at the beginning but this place is unquestionably Poznań’s best sports bar. This isn’t the dark, divey venue you may be used to, rather a large modern space involving ice white sofas and a blue-lit bar. TVs aside, other bonuses include more than 120 beers (with 14 on tap), board games, and darts, as well as poker and foosball tables which seem to have a steady flow of players - Cooliozum is actually the training centre of the Polish Foosball Association. Head through the archway at no. 45 and find it down some stairs on your left.QG‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 45, tel. (+48) 792 88 18 12, www.cooliozum.pl. 6

Symbol Key 6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside Seating

X Smoking room available

KontenerART

KontenerART Open from May till the end of September. One of Poznań’s most original spots, the seasonal KontenerART occupies a stretch of grass along the Warta River that makes finding the unusual venue feel like a drink-worthy achievement. Head down Ewangelicka (J-7) toward the Warta River and you may hear the clamouring of KontenerART before you see it. It’s worth the trouble - after all, where else can you drink in a stack of shipping containers surrounded by an artificial beach and ‘art’ installations that stretch the definition of the word? One container operates as a stage, one as a bar, and the rest are filled with art projects that are more confusing than creative. Deck chairs and wooden pallets are the seating of choice at this hipster oasis; climb the stairs for a secondstory seat that offers a view of the river and the ideal perch for people-watching. A welcome and unique summer alternative to pubs and clubs in the Old Town.QK‑8, ul. Ewangelicka (on the Warta River between Chrobrego and Rocha bridges), www.kontenerart.pl. Open 12:00-02:00. BE6

Ogród Szeląg

Open from late April till the end of September. In a word, magical. This riverside drinking and socializing spot should have just been a beach bar, but instead it is an intimate, semi-wild garden with deck chairs and hammocks hidden among the foliage and tasty drinks served from a mint-green shipping container. With frequent concerts (every Friday in the 2022 season, it seems) and a nice menu of waffles, bagles, and salads, this is a low-key winner and a favourite hang-out - and they even rent kayaks (25zł for one hour, 35zł for two). In the back, you’ll find a community veggie patch. Good vibes.QL-1, ul. Ugory 97. Open 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. BE6 69

Bars | Nightlife Piwna Stopa

Beer garden at Fort Colomb.

Fort Colomb Fort Colomb, part of the inner ring of old Prussian fortifications, sometimes gets overlooked on account of its location – a bit out of the old town and closer to the main train station - but it really shouldn’t. During the summer, we take every opportunity to get away from the hustle, bustle, and loud drunks of the main square and hide away in the leafy garden of this splendidly historic building, located right in Park Marcinkowskiego.QF‑8, ul. Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. (+48) 609 99 02 82, www.fortcolomb. pl. Open 14:00-24:00; Sun 17:00-24:00. XE

ISTNY wine tapas beer Refined but mercifully laid back (leave that tie at home), ISTNY offers a selection of 14 wines, 8 beers, and 2 ciders - all on tap - in a hip, industrial interior. Make sure to grab an assortment of tapas, which include pickled garlic cloves, prosciutto, chorizo, jamón serrano, and olives.QH‑8, ul. Podgórna 12, tel. (+48) 606 61 04 30. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:0002:00; closed Sun. 6

Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa The newspapered interior and nostalgic communistera concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of locations all over the country (including a second in Poz at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap grub like pickled herring and ‘awesome toasts’ to soak up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of characters who are happy to spill out their life story for the price of a 5zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome alternative to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and snobby bars. Karaoke nights take place Tue, Thu, and Sun 20:0002:00.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791 85 95 55, www.pwip.com.pl/poznan-rynek/. Open 09:00-05:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-05:00. U 70

Heralded for its broad selection - around 200 bottled beers and 16 on tap - Piwna Stopa is wildly popular with beer connoisseurs who don’t give two craps about trendy light fixtures or the instagrammability of the interior decor. Not that it’s bad: there’s a certain Czech tavern feel what with the old-fashioned wooden chairs, wall lamps, framed miscellanea, and fireplace (!) and live bands play jazz, blues, and rock during the warm season. Their leafy summer garden is highly recommendable, as are the cheese boards, smoked-sausage hot dogs, and other meaty treats (there’s even venison). Oh, and they recently added a 17th tap with vodka - that’s one we haven’t seen before!QI‑6, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 532 32 92 77, www.piwnastopa.pl. Open 15:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. 6

Proletaryat So what if Stalin killed umpteen times more people than Hitler? Communism can be a hoot, at least it is if you’re drunk, so head to this commie bar and raise a glass to Uncle Joe. Quality local lager, 5zł vodka shots, and - of course - an assortment of classic Eastern European drinking snacks like pickles and bread smeared with lard - ensure nights aren’t dull, and you’ll find this piece of socialist paradise decidedly stuffed with Cold War keepsakes and Iron Curtain mementos. Pride of place goes to Lenin, with his giant plaster head peering through the street-side window.QI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. (+48) 508 17 36 08. Open 17:0002:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-03:00; closed Sun. 6

SomePlace Else SPE is a natural born winner – few places are better geared to meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease, chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9 TVs. American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled with rock pics, a strong menu of Tex Mex, burgers, and steaks, as well as more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness. Happy hours commence at 18:00 and go until 20:00 Tue-Sat.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00. Open 18:00-24:00; closed Sun-Mon. UE

Read and review 50+ Nightlife venues

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Clubs | Nightlife

Clubs Not exactly Poland’s party capital, Poznań nevertheless has a functional clubbing scene for the city’s college students and revellers to blow off steam. Though some establishments only open their doors on weekends or select days of the week, near-nightly thrills are available at Cuba Libe (closed Sun), and the big cheese in town is the international franchise Pacha (yes, the place with the cherries). Cuba Libre Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The Fridaynight ‘MUY Caliente’ and Saturday-night ‘ESTA NOCHE FIESTA!’ dance parties prove seriously popular.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.cubalibre.pl. Open 22:00-05:00; closed Sun. XE

Cuba Libre Social Club An extension of dance-scene favourite Cuba Libre, the Social Club is an exclusive Cuban-themed cocktail bar with a focus on fine rum; try, for instance, their mojito made with Havana Club Añejo 3 años white rum. Frequent live Latin American music and DJ parties keep the tunes on-brand and the patrons attempting the samba.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 605 04 07 66, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 16:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00. BE

Czarna Owca A local institution since 1998. Upstairs is a noisy woodfurnished bar, downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. The music is usually no more challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally draw reputable DJ’s and

a crowd hell-bent on tipping lots of booze down their gobholes.QH‑8, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel. (+48) 537 67 47 57, www.klub-czarnaowca.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00-10:00. X

Czekolada Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a disservice; this is the final word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces, and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you’d be a fool to turn up looking like anything less than a celebrity. To make a reservation, head to their website of facebook. QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 665 55 08 91, www. klubczekolada.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00-05:00. X

Pacha Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in post-communist Central Europe - validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław, and Berlin? Time will tell...QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 61 665 72 44, www.pachapoznan.com. Open Thu, Fri and Sat only 22:00-06:00. X

Projekt LAB

Cuba Libre

Inspired by the Berlin party scene - in fact, conceived as a direct result of the to-be owners’ wild night at techno club Berghain - Projekt LAB is an experimental space and underground music venue that proved an immense hit as soon as it opened doors in 2013. The music of choice here is electronic and all sorts of alternative beats, often supplied by international DJs and bands. Brave the long entry lines and you’ll be rewarded with a true multimedia experience.QI‑6, ul. Grochowe Łąki 5, tel. (+48) 731 47 71 02, www.projektlab. pl. Open Thu 22:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 24:00-08:00 only. XB

Venue Index Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Poznań listed on our website: poznan.inyourpocket.com 1956 Uprising Monument 49 1956 Uprising Museum 49 Adrenaline Alpine Coaster 53 ALEkosmos 60 Applied Arts Museum 40 Archaeological Museum 40 Archdiocese Museum 27, 40 Bazar Hotel 45 Bistro Tancereczka 69 Botanical Garden 30 British Military Cemetery 56 Brovaria 69 Budnicy Houses 17 Charlie Monroe Kino Malta 50 Chocolate Museum 41 City Fortifications 20 Cooliozum 69 Cuba Libre 72 Cuba Libre Social Club 72 Czarna Owca 72 Czekolada 72 Church of the Virgin Mary 27 DOMU Kitchen & Friends 62 Enigma Cryptologist Monument 47 Falla 63 Fat Bob Burger 63 Figaro 66 Fort Colomb 70 Galeria City Park 35 Galeria Śluza 25 Genius Loci Archeological Park 27 Hala Arena 35 Hyćka 27, 63 Imperial Castle 23 ISTNY wine tapas beer 70 Jewish Cemetery 33 Jeżyce Market 29 Just Friends Beer & Food 63 Kawiarnia Stragan 60 KontenerART 9, 69

Kyokai Sushi Bar 66 Lake Rusałka 54 Łazarz Market 36 Leprosarium of St. Lazarus 34 Maltanka Mini Railway 53 Malta Ski Mini Golf 53 Malta Ski Outdoor Playground 54 Malta Ski Pontoon Hire 53 Maltese Baths 53 Military Weapon Museum 41 Min's Table 64 Monument to the Heroes of the Poznań Citadel 56 Mówish Mash 60 Museum of Armaments 41, 57 National Museum 41 Na Winklu 27, 64 New Synagogue 19 Ogród Szeląg 69 Okrąglak 23 Old Town Hall 18 Pacha 72 Pączuś i Kawusia 61 Pałacowe 50 Palm House 35 Perseus Freeing Andromeda 34 PETIT PARIS Boulangerie 61 Petit Paris Sołacz 64 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 70 Piwna Stopa 70 Plac Kolegiacki 17 Plac Wolności 22 Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island 25 Port Sołacz 66 Poznań Army Museum 41, 56 Poznań Bamber Museum 41 Poznań Cathedral 26 Poznań Congress Center 33 Poznań Croissant Museum 41

Poznań Fara 17 Poznań Kaiserpanorama 42 Poznań Potato Museum 42 PRL PUB 70 Projekt LAB 72 Proletaryat 70 Pyrland Park 54 Ramen-Ya 64 Ratuszova 67 Rialto 51 Rose Garden 57 Royal Castle 20 Social Night Market 63 SomePlace Else 70 SPOT. 67 St. Anna's Church 36 Stary Browar 18 Thai-Land Massage 51 Thai Smile Massage 51 Thai Thai 67 The Bell of Peace & Friendship Among Nations 57 The Enigma Cipher Centre 47 The New Zoo 54 The Old Zoo 30 'The Unrecognised' art installation by Magda Abakanowicz 57 Toboggan Run Pepsi 54 Traficar Car Share Poznań 13 U Aipo 64 ul. Żydowska 18 Uno 61 Wiejskie Jadło 64 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum 42 Wielkopolska Uprising Monument 45 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum 42, 45 Wilson Park 34 Wypas 64 Zielona Weranda 64

Poznań In Your Pocket City Guide 2022

Articles inside

Venue Index

Clubs

Bars

Casual Dining

1956 Uprising

Breakfast & Coffee

Regional Dishes

Citadel Park

Cracking the Enigma Code

Activities & Recreation

Museums

1918–19 Wielkopolska Uprising

Exploring the Warta

Śródka & Ostrów Tumski

Transport

Jeżyce

Art Tourism

Introducing Poznań

Essential Poznań

How to Use This Guide