Warsaw In Your Pocket City Guide_ Summer 2022 by Poland In Your Pocket

Maps

Sightseeing

Activities

Warsaw

Dining

Nightlife

Shopping

SINCE 2001

No. 122, Summer 2022

City Guide

Celebrate Summer in the City! Riverside Beaches & Bars

p.12

Where to Beat the Heat

p.16

Flame on @ Whiskey in the Jar p.18 Summer Buzz at Browary

p.20

STORES IN WARSAW: Złote Tarasy, Złota 59. Westfield Arkadia, Al. Jana Pawła II 82.

victoriassecret.pl

Contents

Warsaw

No. 122 Summer 2022

Feature Summer in the City

p.12

Poniatówka Beach near the National Stadium.

Introducing Warsaw How to Use This Guide

Features

p.07 p.08

Riverside Beaches & Bars Swimming & Bathing Whiskey in the Jar Interview Summer Buzz at Browary Jewish Culinary Culture Exhibit Grażyna Hase Fashion Exhibit Traditional Polish Dishes

p.12 p.16 p.18 p.20 p.58 p.60 p.76

Transport Sightseeing

p.22

Essential Warsaw City Centre Old Town Walking Tour The Royal Route Powiśle Łazienki Park Wilanów Praga

Art, History & Culture Art Tourism Current Exhibitions Museums Jewish Warsaw Warsaw Uprising

p.25 p.26 p.32 p.38 p.44 p.48 p.52 p.54 p.57 p.58 p.62 p.66 p.68

Activities

p.70 p.72

Breakfast & Brunch Restaurants

p.74

Kids & Families

New & Featured Fine Dining Casual Dining Food Markets

Nightlife

New & Featured Bars Clubs Adult Entertainment

Shopping Venue Index

p.79 p.80 p.84 p.88 p.91 p.92 p.96 p.99 p.100 p.104

Maps City Map City Centre Map Old Town Map Royal Route Map Powiśle Map Łazienki Map Wilanów Map Praga Map

p.10 p.27 p.33 p.39 p.45 p.48 p.53 p.54 5

freepik.com

MY ALCHEAILS T K C O C

BEER WAL

y t r Palike l a c o l a in this famous city centre spot

INTER N CUISATIONAL INE

OUS DELICAI KS STE

n an immodest way, we can boast of an excellent menu, which includes a lot of proposals inspired by dishes from around the world. We rely on the experience of our Chef, Rafał Kowalczyk, who is

the winner of the prestigious Gault & Millau 2020 award. We focus not only on the taste, but also the aesthetics of serving, so both your eyesight and your taste buds will be in seventh heaven!

WARSAW

ul. Grzybowska 5a Tel. 22 375 92 22 grzybowska@thealchemist.pl

Plac Piłsudskiego 3 Tel. 22 628 00 23 info@thealchemist.pl

Introducing Warsaw

Welcome to Warsaw Photo © City of Warsaw

Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 8th most populous city in the European Union (1.7 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub. The city has had troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals. WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete. But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw! 7

Introducing Warsaw

How to Use This Guide Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting. Although it may be Poland’s least walkable city, we still believe that the best way for visitors to discover any city is on foot, and we’ve designed our Warsaw guide accordingly. Our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. District tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.

Warsaw IYP Online

Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p. 10. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide (p.104) to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.

Check out our cheeky list, or watch the accompanying video, celebrating the telltale signs that summer has arrived in Poland - from strawberries and slightly salted pickles to ridiculous ice cream lines and ‘parawany.’

Cover Story This view of the Warsaw skyline can be yours from Ether Bar (p.91) - a stylish new place for food, drinks and fun on the 19th-floor roof terrace of NYX Hotel. Photo by Piotr Gęsicki.

Publisher & Staff IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 12,000 copies published every 2 months

Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover. Here are some Warsaw articles we wish we had room for in print this issue:

10 Polish Signs of Summer

Warsaw Day Trips Read through our entire guide, seen it all and still looking for more? Of course you haven’t, but the region surrounding Warsaw still offers many fantastic sites worth exploring, from national parks to spa towns.

Warsaw By Bike Warsaw is blessed with an easy-touse bike share system (p.23) and over 530km of cycling paths. Check out our top tips and trails for avid cyclists in Poland’s most bike-friendly city.

Editor: Garrett Van Reed, Contributors: Yuri Barron Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494 Research: Magdalena Kumala, Anna Janus Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Copyright Notice All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Summer in the City:

Riverside Recreation & Beach Bars Get some exercise, get some sun and get your groove on at La Playa (p.14).

When the weather’s warm in Warsaw, the entire city gravitates towards the water. That means the Vistula River - the long banks of which comprise the city’s unofficial ‘19th district’ and provide a bounty of places to relax and explore, including sandy beaches, green forests, sports clubs, cycling paths, and dozens of restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Perhaps the most characteristic thing about Warsaw’s riverside is the striking dichotomy between its left and right banks. While the left bank is more sanitised, developed and urbane, the right bank has been left largely untouched and resembles a wooded nature preserve. The best way to explore the full breadth of Warsaw’s waterfront is by getting on a bicycle (see p.23) and using the city’s many lovely riverside cycling paths and bridges. You can also take advantage of the city’s free ferry service, which provides a more scenic way to get across the river. Both sides have plenty to offer in terms of relaxation, exercise and entertainment, and here we list the highlights. Whether you’re looking for an escape from the noise and crowds of the capital, or the most happening party in town - you’ll find it on the riverside! 12

First, a few guidelines... Alcohol: When it comes to drinking in public, the river is your friend. Basically you can consume your own alcohol anywhere along the river without fear of a fine, just please clean up after yourself. Swimming: Although the temptation is ever present, we don’t recommend getting in the water. It is neither safe, nor sanitary. If you want to actually get wet, see our suggestions on p.16. Fires & Grills: Most beaches in Warsaw have designated grill areas, so if you want to build a fire, go for it, just keep it contained to the designated places, please.

Summer in the City

The Left (West) Bank The Vistula Boulevards The main gateway to the river for most Varsovians is the M2 Metro stop ‘Centrum Nauki Kopernik,’ which deposits you right on the water (I-6). When people (this guide included) refer to ‘Bulwary Wiślane’ (EN: the Vistula Boulevards) - it’s typically this stretch of the left bank on either side of the Świętokrzyski Bridge between the Śląsko-Dąbrowksi Bridge (to the north, G-4) and Poniatowski Bridge (to the south, J-7) that they’re referring to. Certainly the busiest and most developed section of the river, there are many attractions that make this area essential for taking a stroll, not least of which are all the other people about. Head north from the Metro to see the Warsaw Mermaid sculptures, the Copernicus Science Centre, Museum on the Vistula and University Rooftop Gardens - all of which you can read about in more detail in our Powiśle section on p.44. The areas between all of these cultural sites are filled with parks, gardens and public spaces that are a pleasure to spend time in. There are plenty of benches and stairs to relax on, and of course numerous cafes, bars, restaurants, ice cream stands, food trucks and river barges where you can find great food and refreshments.The Copernicus Science Centre has a rooftop garden, and frequently organises outdoor workshops and activities for kids, as well as a free summer cinema. Just beyond the colourful pavilion of the Museum on the Vistula you’ll find a sandcovered section of the boulevard for kids to play and parents to sunbathe. In the evening check out Przystań Nowa Fala - a popular two-level riverbarge with food, drinks and DJ parties parked right in front of the museum (H-5), or simply listen to the music and feel the vibes from the boulevard. Similarly, just south of the Metro, BarKa (p.92) is another popular barge that hosts gigs and guest DJs and is regularly mobbed with partiers, creating an entire scene in its extended orbit on that part of the riverbank (I-6).

Waiting for the ‘Wilga’ river ferry from New Town to Praga.

Płyta Desantu Beach and Pomost 511.

Płyta Desantu Beach About 2km south of Copernicus Science Centre you’ll find this small left-bank beach near ŚmigłegoRydza Park. This area feels like a mini summer festival, with two bars right on the sand - Pomost 511 and Fala-Pawilon nad Wisła, and a third - Grunt i Woda - just metres away. Together they make this part of the riverbank a more laid back and less pretentious alternative to the boulevards further north. By day, chill out on the sand, have a grill, hit up the food trucks, rent a kayak or catch the ferry over to Saska Kępa. Grunt i Woda has a particularly family-friendly vibe during the day and even organises occasional activities for kids. In the evenings, the crowds (and mosquitos) start to pick up and concerts, films and even theatre shows are common, as are silent discos and barefoot dance parties on the sand as DJs do their thing.QK-8.

Czerniakowski Port & Promontory Just south of the beach at Płyta Desantu is the entrance to Port Czerniakowski, which provides a sheltering harbour and marina for private boats, and a cycling/pedestrian bridge that connects it to Czerniakowski Promontory (Cypel Czerniakowski) - a long headland that hosts the Miami Wars riverside hangout (p.93) and the massive Monta Beach Volleyball Club further down. The former is perfect for a picnic or cycling pitstop, while the latter is a very professional facility with 10 proper courts, a cafe, restaurant and sauna; if you want to recreate the homoerotic beach volleyball scene from Top Gun, you won’t find a better place in Warsaw. In this area you can also rent motorboats, paddleboards from SUP Academy, take a river cruise or catch the ferry to Saska Kępa beach.QK-8/9. 13

Summer in the City

The Right (East) Bank Saska Kępa Beach This small, wild beach is a good option if you just want to escape urbanity, though it can still be quite popular on hot days. Infrastructure is limited to a few grill areas, swings and a neglected playground, though there is a place to rent kayaks nearby. The free ferry goes directly here, making it easy to get to.QK-8/9.

Lunapark Further north, directly between the Saska Kępa and Poniatowska beaches, you’ll find this weekend fun park for adults. One of the most unique and ambitious places in Warsaw, the huge Lunapark complex isn’t directly on the river, but hidden in the forest close to it. Combining clubbing, street food, sports and recreation, the concept is that of an unhinged, uninhibited amusement park. Here you’ll find plenty of space for hanging out, the outdoor stage of the Hocki Klocki club - where DJs lead dance parties under the stars, the giant candy-striped circus tent of the Wata Cukrowa (Cotton Candy) club, dozens of street food stalls, several additional bars, art installations, a carousel, arcade games, amusements and more. There is also an outdoor pool complex right next door (p.16), making this the perfect party place after taking a dip. Roll up, roll up!QK-8, Wał Miedzeszyński 407. Open Fri, Sat only 18:00-05:00.

River Ferries The City of Warsaw runs a free river ferry service from the left bank directly to beaches on the right bank. Ferries run every day in July & August, and weekends and holidays only in June & Sept, Mon-Fri 12:30-19:15, Sat-Sun 09:00-20:00. These crossings are incredibly popular and limited space often means waiting in queues to board what would otherwise be a quick 5min trip. The routes (which can be seen on our map on p.10) are as follows, and you can easily take your bike on board: The ‘Wilga’ runs from the Vistula Boulevards in front of the Multimedia Fountain to Praga District Beach (G-3). The ‘Pliszka’ runs from Poniatowski Bridge to Poniatówka Beach in front of the National Stadium (J-7). The ‘Słonka’ runs from the floating pier at Czerniakowski Promontory to Saska Kępa Beach (K-8/9). 14

Hanging out on the more low-key East Bank.

Photo by F. Kwiatowski © City of Warsaw.

Poniatówka Beach Warsaw’s largest and most popular beach, located right under the National Stadium, with free ferry service straight onto the sand from Powiśle. As such you’ll find quite a bit of infrastructure at this one, including food, bars, ice cream, badminton and volleyball courts, a playground, designated barbecue areas, water equipment rental, sunbeds, hammocks and more. A good choice if you want to peoplewatch, sunbathe or DIY party with the locals after sunset.QJ-7.

Praga Beach & La Playa Known as the ‘Rusałka Beach,’‘Praga District Beach,’ ‘Zoo Beach’ or even 'the beach at La Playa' thanks to the famous riverside fun club behind it, this sandy pitch across from the Old Town and metres from the zoo is more of a wild beach, but does have designated areas for grilling and wicker gazebos. Bring the kids after a trip to the zoo (p.73), or rage hard at La Playa and come down to the water for a breather. The daytime views of the Old Town are great, but at night…just, wow. Nearby is a playground and also a ropes park with courses for kids and adults. Probably the most celebrated beach club in the capital, La Playa features several bars, a covered outdoor stage, plenty of deck chairs and distinctly Latin vibes, enhanced by weekend DJs who draw in the samba and salsa crowd to crash the dancefloor. There are also areas for beach volleyball, badminton, frisbee and boules, and you can borrow equipment from the bar. The ferry runs directly from here to the Multimedia Fountain Park (p.72), which is a great way to end the evening, if you aren’t up for dancing the night away on the beach.QG-3, La Playa open 17:0024:00, Fri 17:00-02:00, Sat 13:00-03:00, Sun 13:00-01:00.

Summer in the City

Rabat nie jest naliczany od cen napojów alkoholowych, limitowanych serii pinów, kolekcji charytatywnych i przecenionych produktów. Oferta obowiązuje tylko w restauracji i Rock Shopie Hard Rock Cafe Warsaw, nie łączy się z innymi promocjami i wygasa 31.03.2023. Offer expires 31 Mar 2023. Not valid on alcoholic beverages, limited edition pins, charity or sale items. Not valid with other offers. One per person per visit. Valid only at Hard Rock Cafe Warsaw restaurant and Rock Shop.

Summer in the City

Let’s Get Wet:

Where to Go Swimming Drone view of Moczydło Water Park

When the temperatures get so hot that you just want to rip your clothes off and jump in the river - don’t! It’s not safe or hygenic. Instead, head to one of these proper swimming complexes and splash around like a baby elephant. C

Moczydło Water Park

Suntago Water World

Warsaw’s largest outdoor pool complex was completely renovated in 2019. The area offers a number of open-air pools including a sports pool (50x20m), water playground for young children and a huge recreational pool (2,833m2) that features a wave machine, artificial river and numerous water slides. Beyond the pools, there are also beach areas for playing football and volleyball. Admission is broken into three swimming sessions per day, each lasting 3hrs: 09:00-12:00, 12:30-15:30 and 16:00-19:00. Immensely popular, it’s wise to avoid weekends. Located in Wola, you can easily get there by Metro.Qul. Górczewska 69/73, MMłynów, www.aktywnawarszawa.waw.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission 20/13.50zł, card payments only.

Covering 20ha, this is the largest covered water Y park in Europe, and can accommodate up to 15,000 people. Climate-controlled at 32°C, and with over CM 740 palm trees inside, this tropical oasis represents a level of investment that PL has simply never seenMY before for a facility of this kind. Divided into three CY zones Suntago functions as both an entertainment and wellness centre. Jamanga Water Jungle is theCMY biggest attraction (119/139zł for an adult full-day ticket) thanks to more water slides than anywhere K else in Europe - 32 of them, with a combined length of 3.2km. The area also includes indoor and outdoor thermal pools, a wave pool, artificial river, saunas, a beach, food, refreshment and about 4000 deck chairs. Add an extra 15zł and 10zł for access to the more chilled-out Relax and Saunaria zones, both of which are age 16+. Saunaria offers 10 saunas from around the world, while the large Relax area offers full spa and wellness services, heated pools, a 20,000m garden, several bars, plenty of chillout space and live music every 2nd Friday night. All told, Suntago has a lot to offer kids, families, couples and friends, and you’d be crazy to get anything less than a 4hr ticket; on-site accommodation is also available.

Public Pools by the Vistula With the Vistula agitating the urge to go for a swim, this riverside pool complex comes as a relief. The most centrally-located swimming place in Warsaw, you’ll find it right next to Lunapark (p.14) in Saska Kępa. An old school, PRL-era facility, it consists of two Olympic-sized swimming pools, very basic shower and changing facilities. One of the pools has a pretty sweet slide, lifeguards are on duty to stop the kids from running (and drowning, we suppose), and there’s also a small beach area. Free parking is available, take the river ferry from Czerniakowski Promontory, or use jakdojade.pl to find public transport connections.QK‑8, Wał Miedzeszyński 407, www.walmiedzeszynski407.pl. Open 10:00-18:30, July & August only. Day tickets 30/18zł, kids under 5 free. 16

Located 50km southwest of Warsaw, to get there you can catch the Suntago bus from Al. Jerozolimskie 56, which departs at 09:00, 11:15 and 16:15, with an additional 10:00 departure on weekends and holidays; journey time 1hr.Qul. Nowy Świat 1, Wręcza, www.parkofpoland.com. Open 10:0021:00; Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00.

Summer in the City

Whisky in the Jar | Local Voices

The Psycho Dolls in Whiskey in the Jar; instagram.com/thepsychodolls.

Whiskey in the Jar: Metallica, Motorcycles, Meat and More! We’ve long been fans of Whiskey in the Jar - the aptlynamed brand of rock and roll steakhouses that has expanded to most major Polish cities in recent years. Though it wasn’t the first, their Warsaw restaurant is our favourite, serving as a flagship for the brand. While Whiskey in the Jar certainly pays homage to the American roadhouse, this brand is Polish born and bred, and we recently had the pleasure to catch up with the company’s owner and most passionate promoter, Agnieszka Poraszka-Kotecka, for a short chat (and a couple of long drinks) about the brand’s concept and success. 18

Agnieszka Poraszka-Kotecka, co-owner of Whiskey in the Jar.

Local Voices | Whiskey in the Jar Can you describe the concept of Whiskey in the Jar in one sentence? Our slogan is ‘Rock w menu, ogień na scenie, jar w sercu’ (Rock on the menu, fire on the stage, jar in the heart). It refers to our rock’n’roll attitude, the fact that you’ll find energetic bands on our stage every Tue-Sat, and that we serve all our signature cocktails in iconic glass jars. And what about the name? How did it all get started? My husband, the founder of the brand - Mikołaj Kotecki - was a fan of the song Whiskey in the Jar, by Metallica. He wanted a place to have a party like in the song’s video. And, believe me, he succeeded! In addition, he liked this concept of literally serving whiskey in jars, and he was the first to introduce it on the Polish market, hence the direct reference in the name.

We heard you’ve already had some interesting guests drop by though… In Warsaw, we have a friendly motorcycle community, who we meet on various occasions. Recently a motorcycle even rode through the restaurant celebrating the opening of ‘motorcycle season.’ We live here on our own terms, but we are confident that this keeps us successful in Warsaw and we’ll continue to think boldly about future destinations. Back to the food. What is the secret of preparing the perfect steak? Quality of the meat, the perfect lava grill and a chef with experience. And you’ll find all this at our place!

Speaking of firsts, when was the first Whiskey in the Jar opened? In 2013, exactly nine years ago. As we’re doing this interview, we are just in the process of designing unique birthday events for our brand across Poland. Whiskey is already in six major cities in Poland, and we’re aiming even further! There is a lot to celebrate. What makes eating at Whiskey in the Jar a unique experience? I should say the standardisation of processes, but... it’s really the atmosphere and the people. That’s what makes you want to come back. You come to Whiskey in the Jar and you become part of our team. This is why the food tastes so good to you and is an experience you want to have again. What is the relationship between the food, drinks and music? They are all of the highest quality. They all bring people together. Our restaurant is a meeting place. A unique place that functions as a restaurant during the day and fills up with the sound of live rock concerts in the evening. Original cocktails are also a specialty of Whiskey in the Jar. With us, every element blends together to create a coherent story, written with your help. What in particular can you tell us about the Warsaw restaurant? At the moment, this location is our ‘pearl’. It’s the largest space prepared for our guests in the city. We can open the doors for some 300 people at one time. It is impressive! It’s where we have designed the longest bar, at the heart of the restaurant. And not one story has been written there yet!

Where do you get inspiration for new dishes? Travel and the internet. Constantly and systematically, my team and I go abroad and get inspired. In the past, I would say that we ‘did our homework’ during these trips, and today I know that they can help us improve our business. But mainly they motivate us to keep going, to take steps on the global level. You have what you dare to do! What are 3 dishes that every visitor should try? When visiting Poland of course you have to pop in for a steak with us! Our menu features traditional, regional dishes with a twist, such as a burger with goose meat. Those who have tried it know that we also know how to play with tradition. Finally, what is your favourite whiskey? I invite you and your readers for a drink to Whiskey in the Jar, then you will find out. Na zdrowie! Thanks to Agnieszka Poraszka-Kotecka (what a name!) for taking the time to participate in this interview; you can read the full version online at iyp.me/78707f. Visit Whiskey in the Jar in Warsaw at ul. Marszałkowska 53 (G-10). Learn more about them on p.95 and at www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. 19

Whisky in the Jar | Local Voices

Celebrate Summer at the Breweries Get your groove on at Browary this summer.

Browary Warszawskie (Warsaw Breweries) is the capital’s latest urban renewal achievement - a 4.5-hectare area in the heart of Wola that has been transformed from a forgotten industrial plot into a vibrant microcosm of culture, gastronomy and nightlife. Formerly the site of the Haberbusch & Schiele Brewery, today’s revamped Browary complex beautifully mixes bold modern architecture with historic brick buildings, industrial-chic interiors with green commons, and commercial spaces with residential comforts, including the capital’s first ‘woonerf’ and five public squares. From a visitor’s perspective, it’s more than an urban planning triumph, but a bona fide destination for drinks, dining, relaxation and entertainment. Special events, happenings and activities for all ages take place here throughout the year, making it a popular meeting place, day and night. 20

A Democracy of Tastes When it comes to dining, Browary offers a densely packed and diverse community of gastro points where you’re sure to find your tastes represented and you can try the latest projects from the capital’s most creative culinary influencers. At the apex is Food Hall Browary (p.88) - a casual indoor food market with 11 contemporary food concepts from around the world. Next door - at the very heart of the complex’s historical legacy and modern revival - Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) offers 18 varieties of craft beer brewed in plain view, plus a full card of food, from grilled steaks to fresh seafood

On the Town | Browary Warszawskie (p.84). Nine’s Restaurant & Sports Bar - named after Polish footballer, fitness icon and co-owner, Robert Lewandowski - uniquely combines the emotions of match day with the Polish captain’s proclivity for a healthy lifestyle, while Baila Show & Dining (p.96) delivers ‘dinner and a show’ on Fri & Sat in the form of delicious Latin American dishes and eye-catching entertainment. A quick foxtrot through the rest of the Browary lineup further illustrates the wide diversity and quality of what’s available. Also enjoy excellent food and service in Port Royal (champagne and oysters), Gastronomja (modern Polish and European) Mykonos (Greek), Olivos (Mediterranean), Sobremesa Tapas Bar (Spanish), Munja (Balkan) and Japonka (Japanese) and Pizza Lecentano (Italian). In addition to proper meals, there are several gourmet delicatessens, bakeries, cafes and sweet shops, namely: Crazy Butcher, Piccola Italia deli, Le Paradox wine bar/shop, Good Lood ice cream (the best in PL), Dobro & Dobro coffeeshop, Vita Cafe, Deseo Patisserie & Chocolaterie, and the excellent Bakery Browary Warszawskie with its artisanal bread and amazing pastries (that’s a ‘proper meal’ to us).

Culinary Collective What’s unique about Browary’s bounty of gastronomy points is not just their relative proximity to each other, but the way they often work as a cooperative. Tenants regularly participate in special projects and promotions ranging from theme menus and culinary competitions to food festivals and other collective events that bring them together in the neighbourhood’s shared green spaces. One highlight will be the Midsommer Festival (June 2426), for which Browary’s restaurants will create special dishes designed for sharing, and entertainment will be organised throughout the entire weekend.

Children’s theatre at Browary Warszawskie

New @ The Brews Browary continues to offer up new places to explore, and this spring saw two more highly anticipated openings. First came SASSY Warszawa (ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, p.97), a plush performance space and nightclub for the curious, brash and unencumbered, which has quickly become one of the capital’s hottest weekend destinations. Open Fri and Sat only, each evening begins at 20:00 with dinner and a live act or concert, including provocative burlesque and drag shows, followed by DJ parties from 23:00 that routinely rip the covers off the dawn. One of Warsaw’s most well-loved Indian food franchises has also opened their latest concept in Browary under the banner Bombaj Masala Wola (ul. Krochmalna 61). First introducing locals to the exotic aromas of the owner’s native Bombay (EN: Mumbai) back in 2009, this successful family business has steadily grown, building their reputation on authentic and extraordinary Far East flavours. On top of their established faves, Bombaj Browary breaks new ground with an impressive interior by A8 Architects, an assortment of Indian cocktails and new exclusive street food dishes.

Summer Attractions & Activities On top of a steady diet of one-off gastro events, Browary also hosts attractions and activities for kids, teens, parents and seniors, seven days a week. Stretch out in the summer sun of the Laboratory Courtyard during weekend morning yoga sessions. Select specially-prepared snacks, meals and drinks and have a weekend picnic with live music. Tune-in to what’s showing twice a week at the free outdoor cinema. Press up to the summer stage for stand-up comedy, acoustic concerts and open mic jam sessions. Play in the interactive kids’ zone, participate in a dance lesson, go on a brewery tour, or watch a theatre performance. Follow FB and browarywarszawskie.com.pl to keep up with everything on tap in the coming months. There’s truly something for everyone, so follow that summer breeze to the Breweries. Browary Warszawskie is located in Warsaw’s Wola district, between Grzybowska, Wronia and Krochmalna streets. Official address: ul. Grzybowska 58. Parking is available and the area is easily accessible by tram, bus and metro. www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl. 21

Transport

Transport Dworzec Centralny bus stop

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi - all of which are explained here. For detailed information about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.

Public Transport Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,500 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops. Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only. A standard single fare costs 4.40zł, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport 22

is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find dispensers next to the gates). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket). To validate your metro ticket, pass it through the electronic gate to enter the underground, then hang onto your ticket until you leave the underground. For buses and trams, validate your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification. Qwww.ztm.waw.pl, www.metro.waw.pl

Transport

Car & Bike Hire Traficar Car Share Want your own car, but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app (in Polish only). In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for 24 hours for only 59zł and even drop it off in another city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips, big shopping trips, or simply picking up friends at the airport. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL.Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 3.99zł to start a journey, plus 1.79zł/km; 0.15zł/min when parked (0.01/min 23:00-07:00).

Veturilo Public Bike Warsaw has cemented its big-city credentials with a fleet of 5,000+ bikes at over 300 stations (including 10 electric bike stations). Veturilo is ridiculously easy: once you’ve registered online and paid the initial 10zł fee, you can visit any of the stations, select your ride, scan the bike’s QR code and you’re off! For standard bikes the first 20mins are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21-60 minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, and 7zł for each hour after that up to 12 hours; electric bikes are more expensive. When you’re done, pop your bike back into the stand at any of the stations, or if the stands are full, confirm your return via the station’s machine and use the bike chain to secure it to another bike.Qwww.veturilo.waw.pl. Available from March 1 to November 30.

Useful Transport Tools e-podroznik.pl Travelling around Poland is becoming easier! With a host of services available to ease your travel woes, one of the best is e-podroznik (e-traveller). This is your one stop shop for planning and buying tickets for all major cross-country travel in Poland whether it be by bus or train. You can search timetables and buy tickets online by visiting en.e-podroznik.pl or download their app.

Jakdojade Warsaw’s metro, bus and tram network is incredibly easy to use; and it’s made easier with the skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the Warszawa.jakdojade.pl site and app. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from A to B once you’re out in town. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically), destination, departure time, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there.

Scooter Rental Although agitating to some, electric motorised scooters are everywhere across Warsaw, and provide a cheap, easy, efficient and environmentally-friendly way to get around. To get started, you need an e-scooter app on your phone (create an account and add your personal data and payment details). The firms with the most current coverage in the capital are Lime, Bolt, Blinkee and CityBee. Spare yourself the wrath of locals by using your scooter responsibly; don’t ride through congested areas and when you’ve finished your ride, park it out of the way without blocking the sidewalk.

Uber If you’re already an Uber user (uber.com), you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap onetap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Warsaw and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates. Veturilo station on the Vistula. Photo: F. Kwiatkowski © City of Warsaw.

Essential Warsaw | Sightseeing

Multimedia Fountain Park with Warsaw’s soaring skyline in the background. Photo: DroneInWarsaw.com

Warsaw Sightseeing When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.32), regal Royal Route (p.38) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.48) and Wilanów (p.52), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.26) and scruffy Praga (p.54). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights. 24

Sightseeing | Essential Warsaw

9 Essential Sights 1

Plac Zamkowy

Old Town Square

Vistula Boulevards

Łazienki Park

More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p. 33. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p. 36. Warsaw’s left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow.QSee p. 45. Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing or simply relaxing.QSee p. 48.

Wilanów Palace

POLIN

Copernicus Science Centre

Warsaw Rising Museum

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p. 52. 1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII.QSee p. 67. One of the city’s top attractions, this fun family science centre is bursting with interactive exhibits and includes a state-of-the-art planetarium.QSee p. 39. Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of the best in PL.QSee p. 69.

Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237 metre structure takes its inspiration from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki during its construction. Working around the clock, it took just three years to finish the Palace in 1955. Despite this Olympian effort, Stalin didn’t live to see his pet project completed. Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 rooms, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Regardless, the building became a local object of hatred and was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony. In addition to the theatres, bars and museums on the ground level, visitors can tour the building, or head straight to the viewing terrace on the 30th floor. To get there you’ll need a ticket, which gets you a ride in a small old-school lift, complete with attendant. QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 10:00-19:00. Viewing terrace open 09:00-20:00; terrace admission 25/20zł. U

View of PKiN from Park Świętokrzyski. Photo: F. Kwiatkowski © City of Warsaw.

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

Warsaw City Centre Commerce, Catholicism, Judaism and cafe culture intersect at Plac Grzybowski.

Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forward-looking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital. In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, you’re already in it, aren’t you? Chances are you’re staying is in the City Centre, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.32), shall we? Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital.

Places to Explore 1

Plac Grzybowski

This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. From 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to 26

house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape. Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has been recently renovated and today features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and even a pond with a waterfall. Very well lit, it’s a wonderful place to relax or enjoy the many bars and cafes that surround it, day or night. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It remained derelict, however, in recent years, one side was restored to its pre-war splendour, while the second side awaits revival. It is here in the former heart of the Jewish Warsaw (p.66) that the Singer Jewish Culture Festival takes place each year in late August/early September. The Nożyk Synagogue - the city’s only synagogue to survive the war and still in use today - can also be found close by at ul. Twarda 6.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska.

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Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing 2

Plac Piłsudskiego

Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square. Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski, you’ll find a statue of the Marshal guarding his naming rights with a stern gaze nearby. That’s because the space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation. During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here; considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here too that in 1979, the newly appointed Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were added - both relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński, whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims. At the western end of the square you’ll find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until it’s destruction during WWII. Here the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.QF‑6, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Marconi’s fountain at the centre of Saxon Garden.

Saxon Garden

Plac Piłsudskiego’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier almost serves as an entrance gate into Saski Park, aka Saxon Garden. This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to all in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Despite its demise during WWI, Saxon Garden still offers several historical points of interest, in addition to lots of benches, plenty of shade and a much-needed escape from the urban din of the capital. The centrepiece of the gardens is a large fountain created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. The alleyways running out from it are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825 - also designed by Marconi, and modeled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli. Other curiosities include a sundial from 1863, a memorial honouring Varsovians killed during WWII, and a statue of Stefan Starzyński - the city’s mayor at the outbreak of WWII, who later to became a victim of Dachau concentration camp. It’s also worth noting the beautiful Renaissance palace on the southern side of the park, which holds Zachęta - Warsaw’s premier space for contemporary art (p.64).QF‑6, MŚwiętokrzyska. 4

Hala Mirowska & Hala Gwardii

Major Warsaw landmarks, these two massive brick market halls were constructed between 1899 and 1901 on the instruction of Russian mayor Nikolai Bibikov. Together they functioned as Warsaw’s largest market up until the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising. Though ravaged by fire, the buildings survived check out the bullet scars still visible on the corner of Pl. Mirowski and Jana Pawła II. A bus depot in the post-war years, Hala Mirowska resumed its original purpose in the 1950s and a visit today feels a bit like a trip back to those days, thanks to the outmoded shops full of cheap goods and lines of country folk selling jars of mushrooms out of their vans. The outdoor produce market is absolutely worth it, however, and full of fresh greens coming in from the countryside. Meanwhile, Hala Gwardii (open Fri-Sun only), has been turned into a trendy food hall (p.88), though it’s a bit grittier than the capital’s similar enterprises. The dichotomy is unique as this place strains to modernise, but stays true to its roots.QD‑6, Pl. Mirowski 1, MRondo ONZ. Open 06:00-20:00; Sat 06:00-18:00; closed Sun.

Sightseeing | Warsaw City Centre

unbelievable? it's real. it's ether.

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now open!

NYX HOTEL WARSAW, UL. CHMIELNA 71.

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing 5

Browary Warszawskie

Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district, densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bakeries, delicatessens and shops. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, postindustrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 12 contemporary gastro concepts in the former brewery cellars (p.88). The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery, p.84) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (19 different types!) for local hopheads. Other highlights include a sports bar part owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s) and dinner entertainment at Baila Show & Dining (p.96). Check online for events - there’s always something brewing at Browary.QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 58, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl. 6

Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire

One Warsaw’s newest social spaces, European Square was created as part of the development of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards from industry authorities and local residents for their design. Located just a short distance from the ‘Rondo Daszyńskiego’ metro station, the small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery with changing exhibits, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). What’s more, there’s frequently something happening, be it concerts, film screenings or live sports transmissions. Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC‑7, MRondo Daszyńskiego.

Inside the Warsaw University of Technology.

Fabryka Norblina

The latest of several highly successful urban renewal projects in Warsaw, and maybe the most diverse and exciting. This former industrial site covering an area of 2ha was once one of the largest enterprises in the Kingdom of Poland, with a long, complex history that dates back to the 1840s. The Norblin, Buch Brothers and T. Werner Factory (to give its full name) produced a wide range of metal, tin and silver-plated goods, ranging from the utilitarian (cutlery, dishes, teapots) to true works of art. Until recently a neglected pearl of post-industrial architecture, massive investment has turned the area into a lively modern centre of commerce, culture, entertainment and gastronomy. Over 24,000m2, visitors will find an truly impressive multimedia museum about the site’s industrial history - including exhibits of unique plated goods and historical machinery, the largest Apple Museum in the world, a trendy Food Town with 23 gastronomy concepts from around the globe, the BioBazar ecomarket and bistro (p.102), the Kinogram boutique cinema, ArtBox Experience, a fitness centre, shops, cafes, a full calendar of events and more. Opened as recently as September 2021, this truly is the astounding cutting edge of Warsaw’s urban culture, so check it out.QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.fabrykanorblina.pl. Open 9:0022:00; Fri 9:00-01:00; Sat 7:30-01:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. E6F 8

Warsaw University of Technology

The historic main building of what’s known locally as Politechnika Warszawska is an absolute wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed by Stefan Szyller at the turn of the 18/19th centuries. This stout, sturdy two-story building with its unique rounded corners survived WWII bombing and was quickly retouched after the war. Its magnificent facade features an array of architectural embellishments they just don’t teach the kids inside anymore: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and sgraffito, to name a few. If you think the exterior is impressive, finagle your way inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with its four stories of arcades, phenomenal staircase and beautiful stained-glass roof - one of the most-photogenic places in Warsaw. As for the school, it’s one of the largest technology universities in Central Europe with over 36,000 students per year. If you’re wondering where they are, no doubt many of them are hanging out in 9 Hala Koszyki - one of Warsaw’s absolutely awesome indoor food halls, only a five minute walk from here. More on p.89.QF‑10, pl. Politechniki 1, MPolitechnika.

Sightseeing | Warsaw City Centre

Nova Wola

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE NOVAWOLA.COM

Skyscrapers & Viewpoints Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 25 buildings of over 100m, with another 10 approved for construction, and enough pending approval to potentially bring the total up to 65 in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town.

Varso: Nearly complete, this is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire).QE-8. Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and 2nd tallest skyscraper (237m) for panoramic views from the open-air terrace. More on p.25.QE-9.

Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. In July the Skybar and Warsaw Skyfall - a glass box that suddenly pitches visitors forward 15° - will open on the 46th floor.QC-8.

Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, as well as its 7th tallest (192m).QE-8.

Centrum LIM/The Marriott: The Marriott’s Panorama Sky Bar - on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) - offers pricey drinks, but priceless views.QE-9.

Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27 (see p.97).QE-9.

The HUB Warsaw: Completed in 2020, this complex consists of two 130m buildings and an 86m building. For great views head to Nova Wola (p.82) and the 21st floor Crowne Plaza Roof BarQC-8. 31

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing

The Old Town The Old Town Market Square (p.36); photo © City of Warsaw.

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.60), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, it’s inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it. A stunning testament of the city’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, if you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here. 32

WALKING TOUR IYP’s Old Town Walking Tour leads you in and around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district. The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but we reckon for most, an exploration of Warsaw’s Old Town will take several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your smartphone or camera, some comfy shoes and off you go.

a stunning testament of the city’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ great pride in their city.

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Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the day when the steps of King Sigismund’s Column aren’t besieged by dating couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s a steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll, political demonstrations or street performers plying their trade. As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle. Also note that there is a tourist information office located here at number 1/13 (open everyday 10:0016:00).QF‑4, Plac Zamkowy, MRatusz Arsenał.

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Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour

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View of Plac Zamkowy and the Royal Castle from the tower of St. Anne’s Church (p.38).

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing 2

Royal Castle

Once again the pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster. Those who plonk down for admission will have plenty to see, beginning with the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments and maps from the days when the kingdom stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski (aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’) are also open to the public, though a separate ticket is required (20/15zł, open Wed, Sat, Sun only), and a chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko. The Houses of Parliament can also be seen, as can the opulent Great Assembly Hall. The free basement exhibition ‘From Destruction to Reconstruction’ details the castle’s resurrection after WWII rendered the place a pile of rubble, while the east-wing also contains the Gallery of Masterpieces, which has works by Rembrandt (separate ticket required, 30/20zł). Lastly, if you aren’t in the mood to explore the interiors, you must at least check out the gloriously free French Baroque Royal Gardens behind the castle (open daily until 20:00). Visiting time: 2hrs. QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www. zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 40/30zł; kids and students with valid ID, 1zł; Wed free. U

The ‘Grand Apartment’ of the Royal Castle.

Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959. Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul. Podwale. 4

Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates. The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa. Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses. As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Along this pleasant route you’ll find many historical plaques and monuments, but you won’t see much of the Old Town centre, as the view is obscured by the high inner wall.QF‑4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour 5

The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show. In 1983, this most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the Barbican. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the figure is inspired by the story of 13-yearold corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.QF‑4, ul. Podwale. 6

Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, and was built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier city gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when in 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished and incorporated into new apartment buildings. As part of the Old Town’s reconstruction after WWII, the Barbican were restored. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and ‘artists’ selling their wares. Pop inside to see a small exhibition (open 11:00-18:00, closed Mon; admission 6/4zł). QF‑3/4.

Eat & Drink Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

Lubię To: Just steps north of the Barbican, this small cafe is the perfect place to stop for a coffee or something sweet, and they serve breakfast all day.Qul. Freta 8.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and happy hour specials make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. More on p.85. QWąski Dunaj 4/6/8.

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Borderline kitsch and touristy to be sure, but the traditional Polish food hits the mark and the portions are immense. More on p.85.Qul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14.

U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Old Town and traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘duck a la Barssa.’ More on p.86.QRynek Starego Miasta 12/14.

Bar & Books: Open after 17:00, drop in this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whisky bar for an evening drink, and maybe catch some live music on weekends.Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20.

Warsaw Barbican; photo © City of Warsaw

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing 7

Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated burgher houses whose design dates back to the 17th century. The facades hide a treasure trove of decorative elements - keep an eye out for our favourite, the ‘House Under the Lion,’ which features frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our big interwar Polish artist crush - look her up) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska. Today these tenements host numerous museums and cultural institutions - in fact the Museum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square - plus souvenir shops,

Old Town Museums When it was rebuilt in the postwar years, Warsaw implemented a vision of its resurrected Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums, so instead of just staggering around, gawking at the architecture - go inside and learn something. The two largest, most significant and most worth-visiting museums (in our opinion) are the Royal Castle (p.34) - where you’ll get a feel for the city’s lost grandeur, and the Museum of Warsaw, where you’ll learn its history. Depending on your interests, however, you may be interested in one of these smaller, more niche museums nearby.

Archdiocese Museum: Displaying both the sacred and profane, this surprising and underrated art museum has several creepy Beksiński paintings. More on p.62.Qul. Dziekania 1.

Museum of Dollhouses: Over 150 highly detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, and antiquated toys. More on p.63.Qul. Podwale 15.

Pharmacy Museum: Travel back in time to a charmingly antiquated interwar ‘apteka.’ Nominated for ‘European Museum of the Year 2022.’ More on p.64.Qul. Piwna 31/33.

World of Illusion: More attraction than museum, but a nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and you’ll go home with lots of fun photos. More on p.71.QRynek Starego Miasta 21. 36

restaurants and cafes, with ample outdoor seating in the spring and summer. At number 27 you’ll find Warsaw’s oldest and most prestigious restaurant, U Fukiera (p83). During the 15th century the centre of the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it’s most famous feature is Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid. Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta. 8

Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch

Found inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed over 21 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, packaging and other items with representations of the Polish capital or symbols like the Warsaw Mermaid - all of which contribute to a better understanding of the events that have shaped the Warsaw we know today. The history of the buildings themselves, which still retain many original elements, is also presented, and there’s also a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, www.muzeumwarszawy. pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/18zł; Thu free. U6 9

Gnojna Góra (Dung Hill)

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, we’ve tried). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa.

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour 10

Ul. Kanonia

Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked Cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true. Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG‑4. 11

St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights. As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudogothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army. It’s possible to visit the crypts Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00 and Sun 15:00-17:00 at a cost of 5/3zł (closed during mass). QF/G‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00-20:00; Sun 07:00-22:00.

Choose Your Adventure! Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.44). 37

The Royal Route | Sightseeing

The Royal Route Krakowskie Przedmieście Street and St. Anne’s Church

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.34) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Island (p.51), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.52) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.

WALKING TOUR In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.32) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat - to the ironic/ iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. In the ‘Choose Your Adventure’ box at the end of the tour (p.43), you’ll find info on how to continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or advice on how to veer off towards other interests. 38

St. Anne’s Church & Tower

St. Anne’s survived the war with a few token scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which very nearly collapsed. It took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Intriguingly, this wasn’t the first time St. Anne’s had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around the corner. Escaping destruction during the war with Sweden (1650-1655), the church was the apparent victim of arson only two years later. The classicist façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classicist and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, is the splendid viewing tower, the views from which are worth the 147-step climb (open 10:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-22:00; 10/7zł). One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross inside. To learn how these two planks of wood nearly ripped the country apart in the summer of 2010, see our online piece on the Presidential Cross: iyp.me/71061.QG‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, www. swanna.waw.pl. Open 09:00-15:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

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His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. Dominating Krakowskie Przedmieście, traces of WWII bullet holes dating are still visible on the monument. To learn more about Mickiewicz you can visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 20). QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21-23, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

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Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and alleged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot source of argument. Some say Nowogródek (Lithuania), others say the nearby Zavosse (Zaosie). A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickiewicz’s body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Kraków.

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Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary figure - as well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in 1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.

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The Royal Route | Sightseeing 3

Presidential Palace

Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests. Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791. Signed on these very grounds, it was the 2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski. A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon. After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. Rebuilt and frequently remodelled, at the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president (currently Andrzej Duda), which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square-jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48.

Curiosity Crossroads! Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Pisudskiego (p.28)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre (p.26) and on a path to Hala Gwardii and Hala Mirowska (p.28) - two massive indoor markets 1520mins on foot from where you’re standing. 40

Bristol & Europejski Hotels

Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious Krakowskie Przedmieście street are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name but a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast (more on p.64).

Cycling past Bristol Luxury Hotel.

Photo F. Kwiatkowski © City of Warsaw

Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13). The first hotel to re-open after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, including Chaud Pain boulangerie (p.74), Lourse patisserie and EPOKA restaurant (p.79). Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques the most exclusive shopping experience in the country.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 & 13.

Sightseeing | The Royal Route 5

The University of Warsaw

Going further, why all of a sudden do you see young, fresh faced kids? Well, you’re in Warsaw Universityland. The Uni’s main campus lies behind the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw U was established here in 1816. Chopin even lived here, with plaques found at the entrance to the campus - look up at the building behind you to see another location he lived in! The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim.QG‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl. 6

Holy Cross Church

No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi. Although this serves as the church’s key draw there are several other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this astonishing Baroque creation. The church’s history originally dates from the 15th century when a small wooden chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuilt in 1682, with the cornerstone being ceremoniously laid by Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed by the royal architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in 1696 though over time would see numerous additions to its shape. The most notable of these would come in the following century when Józef Fontana added two Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub would later extensively refurbish the façade with Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate decorative touches to the interior. Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic

Chopin Recitals Poland’s greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin (1810-1849) was born 50km west of Warsaw, moving to the capital with his family as a baby. A prodigy from the start, he came to fame here before being exiled at age 20 due to the November Uprising of 1830. Walking down Warsaw’s Royal Route, Chopin-related sites are in abundance. In addition to Holy Cross Church and the Chopin Museum (a short walk down ul. Ordynacka, p.44), keep an eye out for several ‘Chopin Benches’ which explain the history of relevant sites and play a burst of the composer’s music at the touch of a button. Live Chopin recitals are a popular tourist activity in Warsaw, and there are two points along the Royal Route where you can attend one. The first is Chopin Point on Plac Zamkowy (F-4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieśćie 87/89; Fri-Sun only at 19:00, 90/65zł), the second is Chopin Salon on ul. Smolna 14/7 (H-7, every day at 19:30, 60/40zł). If you’re here on a Sunday, pack a picnic and head to the Chopin monument in Łazienki Park (p.48) to hear free outdoor recitals at 12:00 and 16:00.

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The Royal Route | Sightseeing protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. Open 10:00-11:00, 13:00-16:00; Sun 14:00-16:00. 7

Copernicus monument at the Polish Academy of Sciences

ul. Nowy Świat Time to take a break! Crossing Świętokrzyska, Krakowskie Przedmieście becomes Nowy Świat (G-7) - one of THE places to be seen in Warsaw. Home to numerous bars and eateries, in addition to those below, you’ll find many more on the trendy side streets of ul. Chmielna and ul. Foksal.

Bi Ba Bo: This nostalgic venue hearkens back to Warsaw’s interwar aura of glamour with delicious coffee and Polish cuisine enriched with international flavours. More on p.80.Qul. Nowy Świat 66.

Tehran: Experience the specialties (mutton, lamb) and exotic flavours (mint, rose, saffron) of Iran in this colourful eatery that exudes good energy. More on p.86.Qul. Gałczyńskiego 9.

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy. The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good

Blikle Café: Famously patronised by Charles de Gaulle, this classy, august venue offers breakfast, lunch, ice cream and outstanding desserts that are part of Warsaw folklore.Qul. Nowy Świat 33.

Swing: Asian fusion cuisine, paired with enticing cocktails or carefully selected wines. Live music on weekends. See p.82.Qul. Nowy Świat 31.

The Pavilions (Pawilony): Duck through the courtyard of no. 22 after 17:00 to find this popular maze of dive bars offering street food, cheap beer and nary a tourist in sight.Qul. Nowy Świat 22/28. 42

Warsaw’s famed Palm Tree!

Sightseeing | The Royal Route measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery. QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet. 8

The Palm Tree

Wondering what a giant palm tree is doing in the middle of this roundabout? Modern art, my friends. In this case, a project called ‘Greetings from Jerusalem’ by Polish artist Joanna Rajkowska, who, during a trip to Israel, was struck by the brainwave of sticking a palm tree in the Polish capital to give it some sunny cheer (in the most ironic way possible). The palm tree is actually a steel column specially designed to bend in the wind, covered with natural bark and leaves made from polyethylene. Quite popular, the permanent installation reminds us of all the beautiful and exotic places we could be instead. QG‑8, Rondo de Gaulle’a, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

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Asian Fusion Restaurant & Cocktail Bar in the heart of Warsaw

Choose Your Adventure! From the Palm Tree, Warsaw’s ‘Royal Route’ continues another 10km, past the Ujazdowski and Łazienki Parks, before it ultimately ends at Wilanów Palace - the 17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski. While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t realistic or especially rewarding, Łazienki (p.48) and Wilanów (p.52) are both required for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. You can easily continue your tour to either from the Foksal 01 bus stop on ul. Nowy Świat. To get to Łazienki Park, simply hop on bus numbers 116 or 180 and get off three stops later at ‘Łazienki Królewskie.’ For Wilanów, take the same numbers, or catch the direct E-2 bus; get off at ‘Wilanów.’ Use warsaw.jakdojade.pl for live public transit connections.

Nowy Świat 31

Asian Inspired Menu Innovative Cocktails Premium & Modern Interior Live Music Every Weekend Event Place

If your feet aren’t too worn out, heading 300m down charming ul. Ordynacka (G-7) leads you direct to the Chopin Museum, where you’ll connect with our Powiśle district tour (p.44). Alternatively, head west down pedestrianised ul. Chmielna, past many a bar and restaurant, 10mins to the Palace of Culture (p.25). Of course you can always backtrack to the Metro to make a shortcut to the River Boulevards (p.45) or onward to Praga (p.55). Decisions!

+48 667 988 889 www.swingrestauracja.pl

Powiśle | Sightseeing

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside District The Vistula Boulevards alongside Warsaw’s eye-catching MoMA. Photo: F. Kwiatkowski © City of Warsaw.

Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore. Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the City Centre forced Warsaw’s students, artists, activists and small business owners to reconsider its potential. Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a real draw since 2002 with their lovely Library Rooftop Gardens (open from April until end of October), and the adjacent opening of the prestigious Copernicus Science Centre in 2009 invited further cultural investments (like the Museum of Modern Art), while also creating strong impetus for the city to connect the area via Metro (2015) and finally clean up and modernise the left bank river boulevards into a popular place for public recreation (completed in 2017). The massive redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (opened in 2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today, but despite increasing gentrification, Powiśle still maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic Warszawa Powiśle bar). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood! 44

What to See 1

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe, this museum was opened in 2010 - the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth. Four floors of interactive exhibits cover the composer’s life in every aspect, including a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, his death mask, and even an intriguing section on the women in his life. In addition to dozens of touchscreens, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip to their particular circumstances’ by personalising their own route. Your e-card ticket can be swiped at interactive exhibits, allowing you to hear music, stories or watch videos. 30min live concerts take place every Sat & Sun at 17:00 and 18:00 (28zł, includes museum admission). Visitor numbers are restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets online in advance. Located in the famous Ostrogski Palace, the building’s catacombs are said to be home to the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the Devil before being transformed. Visiting time: 1hr.QH‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 23/14zł; Wed free. U

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Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to the Old Town have seen Warsaw the most development and are now not only a University popular thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, but also brimming with bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer months plus parks and leisure spaces. The area just north of the bridge has also become a cultural corridor and tourist lure thanks to a clutch of top attractions: the Copernicus Science Centre, Museum on the Vistula and the University Library Gardens (open April to October), as well as the Multimedia Fountain OPark rdynack a further north (F-3). It’s fair to say that Warsaw’s river boulevards are now among the best in Europe and as endemic to the identity and character of the capital as those in London or Paris, so don’t miss having a stroll along the water while in town. One Foksal thing that makes Warsaw’s riverside especially unique is that while the boulevards of the left bank consist of concrete retaining walls, the entire breadth ofSthe molna opposite shore has been left completely wild and undeveloped, making for a stark, fascinating and unusual contrast.QI‑6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik. National

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Possibly the second most famous statue of the city’s symbol. This 2.75m tall bronze monument near Świętokrzyski Bridge was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled in June 1939. Her model was Chopin 23-year-old poet and ethnography student, Krystyna Point Krahelska, but allegedly Ludwika changed the facial features slightly to protect Krystyna’s modesty. Remarkably, it made it through WWII at this spot with only minor damage.QI‑6, Bulwar Bohdana GrzymałySiedleckiego, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

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Chopin Museum and Powiśle Mermaid; photos by F. Kwiatkowski, Ł. Kopec © City of Warsaw.

Powiśle | Sightseeing

Eat & Drink When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:

The Cool Cat: Exuding cool and all over the latest trends, this Asian-influenced bistro does everything from brunch, bao and ramen, to cocktails and natural wines.QI-7, ul. Solec 38.

Nadwiślańskie Świt: A cult restobar in the former lobby of a 1960s hotel near the river, serving modern European dishes, lunch specials, craft beer, cocktails and retro vibes.QI-6, Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33.

Warszawa Powiśle: This cult dive bar for hungover hipsters in a former train ticket office epitomises the local vibe, while offering allday breakfast, veggie eats and more.QI-7, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B.

Przystań Nowa Fala: Unmissable, this classy two-level river barge in front of Museum on the Vistula offers great food, cocktails and DJ parties that spill onto the riverbank.QH-5, Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona.

BarKa: This chic waterfront barge is a great place for an afternoon coffee, heating up at night with concerts, DJs and hipsters galore. See p.92.QI6, Skwer im. Tadeusza Kahla.

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall.

Elektrownia Powiśle

Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, it was only a matter of time before the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness. In keeping with current revitalisation trends, the postindustrial plot deftly mixes original architecture and design details with modern trends and convenience, including glass exterior elevators, 30m chimneys and original switchboards. Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping with over 70 boutiques, 9 sitdown restaurants across the complex, plus a huge food hall with an additional 17 international food concepts and 3 bars. Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 300 cosmetic treatments from 10 salons. Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings, and there’s also a multimedia fountain. Whatever your proclivity, there are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting and successful urban renewal projects.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. TU6KH

Sightseeing | Powiśle 5

Copernicus Science Centre

A rare example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top attractions. Not only will you learn an awful lot, but you’ll have a blast doing so. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’ - an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits and the 7 Warsaw University Library all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and Rooftop Gardens adults. Check out the free rooftop garden, and don’t Traditionally speaking, rooftops are the preserve of miss the Planetarium (separate opening hours chimney sweeps, superheroes and Santa, but visit and ticket). Visiting time: 3-4hrs.QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże the Warsaw University Library (BUW) building and Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. that opinion will quickly change. Topping off the (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 08:00bizarre oxidised green building is a lovely two-level 18:00; Fri 08:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00. From July rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams and open 09:00–19:00; Fri 09:00–20:00. Closed 1st Mon of sculptures that covers an entire hectare; there’s every month. Planetarium open Tue, Wed 09:00-15:30; even a fishpond and a stone fountain mixed in Thu 09:00-19:30; Fri, Sat 10:00-20:30; Sun 10:00-19:30. among the oak trees and Japanese spirea. Designed Admission 37/25zł; Sat, Sun 39/26zł; planetarium by Irena Bajerska and opened back in 2002, the 27/19zł. U garden affords panoramic views of lower left-bank Warsaw and across the river to Praga. A wonderful 6 Museum on the Vistula place to stop and rest in the heart of the city, take The Museum on the Vistula is a branch of the a picnic and sit amongst the groups of students Warsaw Museum of Modern Art, and the current site taking time out from studying (ahem, napping). of all the institution’s exhibitions while their new While you’re there, we also highly recommend headquarters is being built on Plac Defilad visiting the BUW Gallery to see some fantastic (scheduled to open in 2023). Located on top of the Polish poster art (open 13:00-18:00, Sat 13:00-17:00, Wisła’s riverside terraces, the eye-catching large closed Sun; admission free).QH‑5, ul. Dobra 56/66, white box of a building is actually a pavilion that was MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw.uw.edu.pl. designed by Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz and Open 08:00-18:00. Library open Mon-Sat 08:00-22:00, housed the Kunsthalle in Berlin from 2008-10. In Sun 15:00-20:00. Admission free. 2017 it arrived in Warsaw with the caveat that the exterior be covered in artwork. Sławomir Pawszak won the contest for decorating the facade, and Choose Your Adventure! his colourful scribblings have adorned it since it opened. Inside you’ll find provocative exhibitions From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga by international artists that challenge our notions (p.54) or the City Centre (p.26) via the handy on the nature of art, as well as the Paloma cafe/ riverside ‘Centrum Nauki Kopernik’ M2 Metro bistro and a bookstore. Check out MoMA’s website station. Alternatively, walk north along the river to for current/future exhibitions.QH‑5, ul. Wybrzeże return to the Old Town (p.32) or check out New Kościuszkowskie 22, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. Town’s Multimedia Fountain (p.72), which is quite (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum.pl. Open 12:00an attraction on weekend evenings; both are 20:00; Sat 11:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. about 2km/20mins on foot. Admission 15/5zł, kids under 7 free. 47

Łazienki Park | Sightseeing

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Sightseeing | Łazienki Park Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of cement and concrete has clearly never been to the city’s incomparable Łazienki Park. This glorious 74-hectare green space is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored by locals and visitors alike. In the summer months, seemingly the entire city flocks here on Sundays (don’t worry, it’s so vast it rarely feels crowded) and in the autumn and winter it becomes an evocative backdrop for twilight trysts with monumental architecture peeking out of the mists. A wonderful place to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past, Łazienki isn’t only a park, however; it’s also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture.

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The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, for that matter). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence (thus taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics or cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. With so much to see and explore, don’t be surprised to find yourself spending most of a day here.

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Tickets & Info While the park is free to wander, explore and enjoy, Łazienki’s indoor exhibits require a paid ticket. To ensure that your pockets don’t fill with litter, there is now one ticket which provides entry to all of the park’s paid sites, currently: the Palace on the Island, the Old Orangery, the Officer Cadets School, the White Pavilion and the Water Tower. The details of that ticket are below and all the corresponding sites have the same opening hours; tickets can be purchased at the park’s two information offices at the Old Orangery or the Officer Cadets School. Note that the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship and the Botanical Garden have their own hours and require separate tickets.QH‑12, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Park open 06:0020:00. Indoor attractions open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Combined ticket for attractions, 40/20zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł; Fri free.

Chopin Monument Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the acclaimed work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.

Belvedere Palace (Belweder)

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then once again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.32)). Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie.QH‑12, ul. Belwederska 56.

If you’re here on a Sunday, head to Łazienki to hear a free Chopin concert.

Łazienki Park | Sightseeing

Getting There Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 and 180 from the Old Town/Nowy Świat; get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. If you prefer tram, the ‘Pl. Unii Lubelskiej’ stop is only a 300m walk east down ul. Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace; tram 4 gets you there from the Old Town or Royal Route, trams 10, 18 or 35 also make the trip from various points in the City Centre. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl. Set in the midst of a rose garden (which blooms June to October), this large monument is the backdrop for a very popular series of free classical piano concerts every Sunday at 12:00 and 16:00 from mid-May until the end of September. The opportunity to hear the music of this great composer in such a beautiful setting is one of the most wonderful experiences in the city during the summer. Bring a blanket and picnic and enjoy.QH‑11.

Old Orangery A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Originally erected in 178588 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in

Old Orangery | Photo: Paweł Czarnecki

Europe. Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, above the balcony boxes keen observers will notice the painted illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18th-century court audience. The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery. From the very beginning of his reign, Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. 120 of the most important of these casts are uniquely displayed inside the Orangery, against a painted backdrop by court artist Johann Christian Kamsetzer designed to give the visitor the feeling of a stroll through an alley of statues in an Italian garden. Visiting time: 30mins. QI‑11.

Botanical Garden Part of the University of Warsaw, these separate gardens at Łazienki have several greenhouses stuffed with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom, the gardens are the preferred subject matter of art students, who set up their easels early and paint until the guards kick them out at sunset. Given such lush scenery, it’s tempting to find a bench and do the same.QH‑11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, www.ogrod.uw.edu. pl. Open 10:00-20:00, greenhouses open Fri-Sun only. Admission 20/10zł (park & greenhouses),12/6zł (park only), kids under 7 free.

Sightseeing | Łazienki Park

White Pavilion

Officer Cadets School

This small villa was built in 1774, and was the first building King Stanisław August had erected on the grounds. Originally meant to be his summer residence, evidence suggests that the King’s sisters actually took up lodging here more than he did. Escaping WWII unscathed, the villa largely retains its original layout, lushly painted decor and period furnishings, and boasts a unique two-level roof terrace. On the ground floor the Gallery of Prints displays selections from Ovid’s ‘Metamorphoses’ part of the King’s personal collection of 4300 prints, from which only about half survive today. Visiting time: 20mins.QI‑11.

In the eastern section of Łazienki near the Palace on the Island stands a large, classical building constructed in a horseshoe plan. A smaller building which served as a kitchen for the Palace on the Island stood here in the 17th century. Seems it wasn’t large enough to serve King Stanisław August’s needs, so he expanded it into something called the ‘Great Annex’ in 1778, replete with apartments. Eventually it morphed into the Infantry Officer Cadets School in 1822, and it was from here that second lieutenant Piotr Wysocki led an uprising, aided by the young men of the school, which escalated into the nationwide November Uprising of 1830-31. Today the building houses a tourist info centre and ticket office for all of the park’s attractions, as well as some small temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 20mins.QJ‑11.

Palace on the Island The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre. Originally built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the iconic structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August. Architecturally spectacular, the palace is lies on an island in the middle of a long narrow lake, and is connected to both shores by colonnaded bridges on each side. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears mythological figures. Today almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms, which appear in their original context, and the extravagant Baroque reception hall. A major patron of the arts, in 1793 King Stanisław August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection of 2,289 works. Today 140 of these canvases are on display as the Royal Picture Gallery, and arranged as they would have been in the years 1793-1795. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QI‑11.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies. If so, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head straight to the Kubicki Stables, built 1825–1826 and home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories; the Stables also host the Royal Weaving Workshop - featuring 19thcentury Jacquard looms, ornamental fabrics, old fabric patterns and more. Visiting time: 1hr.QJ‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Open 10:00-16:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 10:0018:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free. 51

Wilanów | Sightseeing

Wilanów

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre. Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.

Getting There 10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25‑35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl. 52

What to See Wilanów Park & Gardens The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th century.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Open 09:00-21:00. Admission 7/4zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).

Wilanów Palace Museum The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th

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An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.QO‑2.

Potocki Mausoleum

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Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about current temporary exhibits and to buy tickets. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.art.pl. Open 10:00-16:00. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission (includes park admission) 35/28zł, kids 7-16 1zł, kids under 7 free. U

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century. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting, though the lack of descriptions is frustrating.

the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower.QO‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www. parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-12:00; Sun 13:00-17:00.

St. Anne’s Church A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubomirska Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome. In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses

Potocki Mausoleum; photo by Chichebombon

Praga | Sightseeing

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Sightseeing | Praga ‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district. Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting - especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standardbearer for cool, folks around here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town. Getting here is easy: just take the ferry (p.14) or M2 Metro to MDworzec Wileński. 1

Eat & Drink Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Praga Koneser Center, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are a few of the most emblematic hangouts in the ‘hood.

W Oparach Absurdu: A shabby-chic boho hangout full of battered lampshades and oriental rugs, offering coffee, craft beer, cocktails and pierogi, plus frequent concerts and events. QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska 6.

Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, markets and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two pre-war Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, permanent exhibit only 10/7zł, temporary exhibits 5/3zł; Thu free for perm exhibit. U 2

ul. Ząbkowska

Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. QJ‑3. 3

Praga Koneser Center

Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the 5ha complex includes a tourist info point, the Polish Vodka Museum, the Magic Mind Museum, several art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes and bars, plus shops and services amongst the apartments and offices (including Google HQ). Host to frequent events and fairs, the premises are well worth exploring.QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, www.koneser.eu. UK

3/4 Koneser Bar: Skip the museum and head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views. QK‑2, Plac Konesera 1.

Hydrozagadka: This scruffy surrealist nightclub in a Praga courtyard is where locals go to party hard, and anyone is welcome. Open Fri & Sat only, check FB for events.QJ-2, ul. 11 Listopada 22.

Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production methods, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit so deeply tied to Polish history. Entries are timed (PL and EN tours hourly) and it’s wise to look at all the tour options online and book in advance. Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. Audio guides/standard tours 49zł. 6 5

Neon Museum

Yet another old industrial space turned cultural hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs, saving them from oblivion in the process. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places. Visiting time: 30mins.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, www.neonmuzeum. org. Open 12:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00; closed Wed. Admission 16/13zł, kids under 6 free. U6 55

Zachęta National Art Gallery (p.64) | Photo by Anna Zagrodzka

Art, History & Culture Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history. 56

Art, History & Culture | Art Tourism

Warsaw’s Most Exciting Art Spaces Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.50. 1

Zachęta National Gallery of Art

Warsaw National Museum

Museum on the Vistula

Unmissable. One of the leading art galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Ask the locals what to do in Warsaw - they’ll send you here. QSee p.64. Polish and European masters, Polish design, ancient African art and 5 decades of painting can all be found inside the exhibits of this stately museum. QSee p.64. Warsaw’s MoMA, right on the riverside in an eye-catching pavilion. Inside are provocative contemporary art exhibits by international artists. QSee p.47.

Ujazdowski Castle

Neon Museum

BUW Gallery

Contemporary art in a rebuilt palace. One of PL’s most prestigious and provocative art centres, with an extensive program of exhibits, performances, film screenings and more.QSee p.64. Small, but brilliantly illuminating and highly photogenic, this museum displays hundreds of historical neon signs saved from destruction.QSee p.55. Located in the University Library, this gallery (and shop) showcases vintage and contemporary graphics by artists of the famous Polish Poster School. Very cool.QSee p.47.

Murals & Street Art What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and largescale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon . Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions: iyp.me/73221f. 57

What’s Cooking?

A Close-up on Jewish Culinary Culture Until December 12th ‘What’s Cooking?’ - the new temporary exhibition at the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews - looks at Jewish cuisine across the globe and throughout history, examining how typical Jewish dishes are prepared and the meanings they carry. ‘You are what you eat,’ as they say, but more than being a reminder of the importance of healthy eating habits, this common phrase aptly implies that food is inherently tied to identity. When it comes to Jewish identity, culinary culture has always reinforced and enhanced the sense of belonging to a wider community, while also highlighting Jewish diversity and distinctiveness. As this exhibition reveals, the story of Jewish cuisine is simultaneously the story of Jewish religion, culture and history. At the root of Jewish cuisine is the religious foundation that holds it together - kashrut - and its strict rules for preparing meals. By understanding these religious dietary laws we see how they have informed the creation of certain dishes, alongside other influences such as the specific products available in an area, or the culinary traditions of neighbouring cultures. The exhibition presents a variety of Jewish dishes from across the diaspora, looking at their origins and how they became widespread as a result of numerous migrations, from the Middle Ages to the great waves of migration in the 19th and 20th centuries. 58

If you’ve ever wondered what potato pancakes have in common with latkes, how Polish gołąbki differ from holishikes, how chulent differs from adafina, or why New Yorkers consider pickled gherkins and borscht Jewish food - this exhibit not only asks, but answers these hard-hitting questions. Finally, we see how some people are breaking away from Jewish cooking traditions today, while others are rediscovering their culinary roots. It all goes to demonstrate just how diverse and difficult to define Jewish culinary traditions are. With all this talk about food, it should be noted that POLIN is one of the best places in town to taste Jewish cuisine. The buffet of the museum’s wonderful Warsze restaurant offers dozens of rich and aromatic dishes based on traditional Jewish recipes (including kosher options) every day. A culinary journey back to pre-war Warsaw, the current exhibit makes us more excited to eat here than ever. L’chaim!QD‑4, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, Admission 20/15zł, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-20:00; closed Tue.

Art, History & Culture | Current Exhibitions

Temporary Exhibits It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website. Until 24.07 » Chagall The National Museum’s newly acquired collection of 14 works by the early French modernist Marc Chagall, which were created in the heyday of Western European drawing and printmaking techniques in the 60s and 70s. During this time, the artist combined gouache and tempera, crayon, pencil, coloured ink and pastel to achieve vibrance and intensity. Chagall’s works can be viewed on two levels: reality and fantasy. Scenes depicted in this work evoke moments from the Old Testament, which are particularly open to interpretation, while others portray lovers, flowers, animals and references to childhood. QH‑8, Warsaw National Museum, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, Admission 25/15zł, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Until 24.07 » Decolonizations This fascinating and important exhibition brings together the works of more than two dozen international artists, exploring not only the alternative culture that arose in the 1960s, but delving deeper (and more interestingly) into the impact that decolonization had on socialist countries around the world. Definitely one not to miss if, like us, you’re keen on the interplay between art, politics and society in general. For those who understand Polish, there is also a series of lectures, discussions and screenings happening regularly throughout the run of the exhibition.QF‑8, Galeria Studio, Plac Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 69 11, www.teatrstudio.pl/en. Open 12:00-19:00; Mon closed. Admission 3/2zł.

used by Jews during the Holocaust. They used tree hollows, wardrobes, urban sewers, caves or empty graves to create temporary shelters,” which also artistically incorporates contemporary hiding places from present-day Ukraine.QF‑6, Zachęta National Gallery of Art, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, Admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł, students 2zł. Thu free., www.zacheta. art.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Until 02.10 » The Dark Arts: Aleksandra Waliszewska & Symbolism from the East and North Our interest in this largest-ever exhibition of Warsaw-based artist Aleksandra Waliszewska was already piqued by the title alone, and will definitely be on our summer calendar. But if it takes more than mere mention of the dark arts to get your cultural juices flowing, here’s an especially evocative excerpt from the official guide: “The settings of her paintings - forests and swamps, lost highways, and gloomy housing estates - evoke the specificity of Polish and Baltic landscapes. Waliszewska’s works seem to operate using the logic of dreams and her themes conjure primal emotions: love, desire and fear of death.” If you’re enjoying the sunshine down by the river, why not drop into the Museum on the Vistula for some Polski doom and gloom?QH‑5, Museum on the Vistula, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Until 17.07 » Natalia Romik: Hideouts. The Architecture of Survival An incredibly powerful (and timely) exhibition that is likely to have a strong emotional effect on most visitors, Natalia Romik’s ‘Hideouts. The Architecture of Survival’ is the culmination of long-term interdisciplinary research carried out with a team of anthropologists, historians, archaeologists and urban explorers. But more than that, it is “an artistic tribute to survival architecture, the hiding places built and

The Dark Arts exhibit at Museum on the Vistula

Current Exhibitions | Art, History & Culture

Grażyna Hase Always in Vogue

UNTIL September 11th With the trailblazing career of Varsovian model and fashion designer Grażyna Hase as its main narrative thread, this fascinating exhibit weaves through changes in Polish fashion, culture, femininity and sexual politics over the second half of the 20th century. Born in Warsaw in 1939, Grażyna Hase has been a fixture of the Polish fashion world since she appeared on the cover of Przekrój magazine in 1957 at age 18. Entering the industry as a model, Hase cooperated with the biggest fashion houses before breaking out as a designer in her own right. In 1967, in lieu of the typical propagandist celebrations of the PRL era, Hase organised a fashion show for the 50th anniversary of the Russian Revolution and debuted her groundbreaking ‘Cossack Look’ collection “ultramodern dresses inspired by austere forms from 50 years back” as it was described at the time in Kultura magazine. Sustaining this initial success, Hase was soon presenting her designs in Paris and Toronto, had her own TV show and magazine column, and eventually her own brand with several fashion boutiques and art galleries in the centre of Warsaw. For over 40 years her designs were ubiquitous - not only in shop fronts, but on actors, stewardesses, concierges, even Polish Olympians 60

- and Hase was at the centre of Warsaw’s social and artistic life. In 2003 she was awarded the Gold Cross of Merit - Poland’s highest civilian honour. This exhibit at the Museum of Warsaw presents over 200 items mostly garments, accessories and illustrated designs by Hase, plus photographs, advertisements, press and magazine clippings - while tracing her career and cultural impact. While Grażyna Hase is in the foreground, we also see the city of Warsaw - its artists, actors, models, streets, theatres, boutiques and galleries - as the capital of Polish fashion and design from the late 1950s to the early capitalist years of the 1990s. Influencers, fashionistas, designers and anyone curious about communist-era fashion, or Poland’s first iconic modern fashion designer - this exhibit is for you. QF‑4, Museum of Warsaw, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42. www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Admission 12/7zł, Thu free. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon.

Art, History & Culture | Current Exhibitions

Museums | Art, History & Culture

Museums

Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.58.

Archdiocese Museum

Katyń Museum

This Old Town Museum showcases over 20,000 items dating from the Middle Ages up to today, and surprises with its wealth of secular art. Split into the Sacred and the Profane - the former includes liturgical objects, paintings and sculptures of scenes from the life of Jesus, Mary and the saints, plus personal items of Stefan Wyszyński - former Primate of Poland. The latter includes lots of furniture, clocks, sculpture and paintings, including works by famous artists such as Malczewski, Hofman and even Beksiński. One highlight is entering the ‘Royal Corridor’ (aka the ‘Piekarski Corridor’) that formerly connected the Royal Castle with the Cathedral, and was built to ensure King Sigismund III Vasa’s safe passage between the two following an assassination attempt in 1620. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑4, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, www.maw.art.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 12:0016:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/18zł. U

Found in the Warsaw Citadel - a massive 19th century fortress - this museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when 22,000 Polish officers were executed by their Soviet captors in the middle of a Russian forest. The museum has a host of objects, documents and personal effects that have been recovered from the site near Smoleńsk, Russia. The artefacts from the victims and a scrolling list of their names need no explanation, while the multimedia presentation of the extenuating circumstances, the victims’ stories and the entire event’s historical relevancy are well thought-out and thoroughly moving. Visiting time: 2hrs.QE‑1, ul. Jana Jeziorańskiego 4 (entrance from Nowomiejska gate), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 261 87 83 42, www. muzeumkatynskie.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Guided tours (EN, PL) 90-300zł. Audioguides (EN, PL, DE, FR, RU) 15zł. U

Art, History & Culture | Museums Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum

National Ethnographic Museum

Born in Warsaw on November 7, 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the renovated building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the two-time Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of the chemical element polonium (named after the country of her birth). Comprising five rooms, visitors will learn about her family and early life, see a recreation of her Parisian laboratory, plus many personal effects, including her private letters, scientific instruments, and the black georgette coat worn during her last stay in Poland in 1932. Of particular interest is an elephant, gifted by US President Herbert Hoover, which Skłodowska-Curie received during her 1929 visit to the White House - the purpose of which was to secure $50,000 for the purchase of a gram of radium for the fledgling Radium Institute in Warsaw. Visiting time: 1hr.QF‑3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc.waw.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 11/6zł, Tue free. U

Tragically overlooked by most visitors to Warsaw, this joy of a museum showcases all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage - colourful folk costumes, customs and traditions, tools and instruments, outsider art, handicrafts and more - all of it beautifully presented in a superb historical building. Interestingly, there’s also a ‘Korean Gallery’ with a traditional Korean ‘hanok’. One of the city’s most active cultural institutions, they host many events and worskhops, and you can expect multiple temporary exhibits at a time (check online for details). Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Thu 11:0017:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. Tickets 14/7zł, Thu free (Including the Museum for Children). U

Museum of Dollhouses, Games & Toys A small, charming and antiquated museum fittingly located right in Warsaw’s Old Town. Showcasing over 150 highly-detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the museum’s two permanent exhibits - ‘The Bygone World of Dollhouses’ and ‘Religious Toys’ - both show unique handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. Another small branch nearby at ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4 (F-4) hosts temporary exhibits (currently toys from the PRL-era). Visiting time: 4560mins.QF‑4, ul. Podwale 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Tickets 28/18zł; kids under 1m tall, free.

NBP Money Centre Though it may look uninspiring from the outside, inside the HQ of the National Bank of Poland lies one of Warsaw’s best museums - and it’s free! Okay, we know, the airport-style security is a bit much, and economics is not the most enticing topic, but hear us out: this super-modern and fantastically interactive journey through the history of world commerce from ancient civilisations to the present day - is great fun for both kids and adults. Along the way you’ll explore a walk-in safe, get to hold a real bar of gold (heavier than you think!) and learn how to spot fake banknotes. Recommended. Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs. QG‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 11/21, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 185 25 25, www.cpnbp.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. U

Museum of Life under Communism If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like during the years of Poland’s communist regime, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Bittersweet for older Poles and eye-opening for foreigners. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34, MPolitechnika, www.mzprl.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 12:00-20:00. Admission 24/16zł. Audioguides 10zł, free Thu.

The ‘Maluch’ - Poland’s famously mini ‘family car,’ on display in the Museum of Life under Communism.

Museums | Art, History & Culture

Invisible Exhibition A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfold. ed Once you’re sufficiently awed by your inability to do even minor tasks, next is a series of pitchblack rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). An eye-opening experience that will make you think about what you take for granted, to visit book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.niewidzialna.pl. Open 14:00-20:00; Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission 35/30zł; Sat, Sun 39/33zł. N

Pharmacy Museum This charming Old Town museum presents the quaint interior of an interwar pharmacy filled with glass vials and beakers, wooden furnishings, period advertisements and vintage pharmaceutical equipment. Inside you’ll get a healthy dose of history about medicine, poison, and narcotics. Although niche, it really is a wonderful visit; in fact a recent refurbishment resulted in a nomination for European Museum of the Year 2022.QF‑4, ul. Piwna 31/33, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 71 79, www. muzeumfarmacji.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:0018:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł, Thu free.

Vial predicament at the Pharmacy Museum

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art Completed in a Baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII and torn down by communist authorities, who built a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw the castle rebuilt to its original design. Today several large exhibition halls showcase a rotating collection of the very best contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, by leading Polish and international artists. The castle also houses a very good bookshop, a fantastic cinema (U-Jazdowski Kino) and a top-notch restaurant/café, plus it’s surrounded by a lovely park. Visiting time: 2hrs.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u-jazdowski.pl/. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł to all exhibits; 2 exhibits 12/6zł; 1 exhibit 10/5zł; students up to 26, 1zł; Thu free. U

Warsaw National Museum Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works, including 15th century Dutch masters and Botticelli, plus Polish masters like Chełmoński, Matejko and Wyspiański. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallery - the latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley, plus temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 3hrs.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26, 1zł; Tue free. U

Zachęta National Gallery of Art One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissance-style palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. What makes Zachęta more of a gallery than museum is that there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather topnotch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. As a result you get leading-edge art in an old European environment. Recommended. Visiting time 6090mins.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art. pl. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł, students 2zł, Thu free. U6

Art, History & Culture | Museums

Jewish Warsaw | Art, History & Culture

Jewish Warsaw The spectacular wooden synagogue installation at POLIN.

When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community. Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland. As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide (p.10, p.27). At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in 66

guerilla warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps. Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival each August. For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website.

Art, History & Culture | Jewish Warsaw

What to See Anielewicz Bunker Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants - mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice. QD‑3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Jewish Historical Institute

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, www.cemetery. jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Fri 10:00-15:00; closed Sat. Admission 10zł. N

POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL, from the 10th century to the tragic events of the 20th. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. Exhaustive and fascinating, it takes the better part of a day to explore. The temporary exhibits (currently ‘What’s Cooking?’ - see p.58) are of such quality that they require their own ticket, and the museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside the museum visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; closed Tue. Perm. exhibit 30/20zł; temp. exhibit 20/15zł; students and kids 7-16 1zł; kids under 7 free; Thu free. U

This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under seige in 1943, the vast and carefully organised archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List. In the permanent exhibit here you will see the original documents of the Archive, the authentic containers and more. Incredibly powerful and important, if you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Tue 09:00-20:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Sat. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free. Okopowa Jewish Cemetery

photo by Adrian Grycuk

Warsaw Uprising | Art, History & Culture

Warsaw Uprising Polish Home Army soldiers in action, 1944

August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.

17:00 - W-Hour On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital. 68

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

Art, History & Culture | Warsaw Uprising After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

The Aftermath Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

The Old Town Market Square in ruins, 1945.

Warsaw Rising Museum

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audiguide is handy (follow the numbers even if you don’t have one). Crowded on weekends, weekdays are the best time to visit, and you should set aside several hours for the experience. Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis. Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. Visiting time: 3hrs. QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 09:0018:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 25/20zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 27 languages 10zł/person. U 69

Activities & Experiences Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation. Hulakula Leisure Centre This modern indoor family entertainment centre has it all. Strut you stuff on one of their 28 10-pin bowling lanes, break balls on one of 8 LEO Black King billiard tables, or go old-school with their classic arcade games, pinball machines and air hockey tables. There’s a soft-toy toddler zone, plush castle maze playground for older kids, restaurant, bar, seasonal grill and even DJ parties after the kids go home.Qul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. U

Stacja Grawitacja Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features interactive digital games, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all abilities. Put on a pair of anti-slip socks (7zł, or bring your own) and join the fun. Kids ages 3-6 must be accompanied by an adult; older kids can be let loose while parents hang out at the cafe.Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www.stacjagrawitacja.pl/warszawa. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Thai Bali Spa Thai Bali Spa continues a 2000-year-old tradition of massage therapy which aids in keeping the mind, body and soul healthy. Choose from various massages including elements of yoga, stretching, acupressure, Japanese Shiatsu massage and reflexotherapy, plus oils and soothing body cocktails. The skilled massage therapists - all of whom hail from Thailand or Bali - will have you feeling fresh and rejuvenated in no time. Also at ul. Grzybowska 3 (E-7).QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 663 55 11 22, www.thaibalispa.pl. Open 12:00-21:00. 70

Activities & Experiences

MK Bowling Entertainment Center Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1 metro line ‘Metro Młociny’. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 12 bowling lanes and 3 billiards tables, all serviced with a bar (also an activity for many) that also dishes out Neapolitanstyle pizza. Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start-warszawa. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

World of Illusion A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows - it all sounds out-of-this world, and in a sense, it is! Pefect for groups and pairs, make sure your phone is fully charged so you don’t miss these photo-ops, and go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Admission 35/27zł. 6

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. At Pomaluj.art you not only get the chance to buy gifts, but you can join workshops (offered Tue-Sat 14:00-20:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and will teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! Show the Warsaw In Your Pocket guide or map to receive an 8% discount!QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun. 71

Kids & Families | Activities

Kids & Families In addition to bouncy floors, Stacja Grawitacja (p.70) also boasts the best 3D VR gaming experience in Poland!

While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions. Wandering the Old Town (p.32) or Łazienki (p.48) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre, but also the University Library Rooftop Gardens (both p.47) and Multimedia Fountain Park (see right) further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches. Also see our water park recommendations on p.16. Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.69), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the NBP Money Centre (p.63), Museum of Dollhouses (p.63) and Photoplasticon (see right) are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions, so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages. Panoramic viewpoints are also a winner with kids, 72

so in addition to those at the Rising Museum and University Gardens, check out St. Anne’s tower (p.38) near Plac Zamkowy, the Museum of Warsaw (p.36) on the Old Town Square and the viewing terrace on the 30th floor of the Palace of Culture & Science (p.25).

Multimedia Fountain Park Located near the riverside a short walk north of the Old Town, in addition to a few sculptures, a gallery, mural and restaurant, the main feature of this park is - you guessed it - the modern, multimedia fountain. Modestly impressive by day, on Friday and Saturday evenings the fountain puts on extraordinary displays that combine music, light and water, creating visual effects of remarkable clarity such as Warsaw’s iconic Syrenka (Mermaid) moving through the water. Quite a show, catch it Fri, Sat at 21:30 (at 21:00 in August, 20:30 in Sept). Across the street is the ‘Warsaw Family Zone’ (open 08:00-20:00; Fri 08:00-22:00; Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-20:00), which features a playground and mini water park.QF‑3, Skwer im. I Dywizji Pancernej, MDworzec Gdański, www.park-fontann.pl. Admission free.

Activities | Kids & Families Pinball Station Listen here, sonny boy. Back in the days before every whippersnapper on the block had a gaming console in their blue jeans, folks used to go down to the arcade and play the pinball machines for a little entertainment. Relive those pre-digital days in this wildly fun and nostalgic pinball museum, featuring over 100 working machines you can actually play on, some of which date back to the 1930s. A great place to introduce this old school game to younger generations, admission gets you unlimited play for the entire day; you can even leave and come back later.QB‑9, ul. Kolejowa 8A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 600 63 31 15, www.pinballstation.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:0024:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Admission 45/39zł; kids under 12, 29zł.

Warsaw Photoplasticon Hidden in a darkened pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been located here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during the communist era. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine (does it matter?) from their collection of over 7,000 stereoscopic images of times, places and people long gone. Visiting time: 20mins.QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, www. fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.

Warsaw Zoo Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. In total there are 13,000 animals here, across 500 species. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:0018:00; Sat 09:00-19:00. Admission 30/20zł. 73

Breakfast & Brunch For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird that’s tired of eating worms, or a late riser that overdid it a bit last night, get a good first feed in the places below, or visit our website for more. Chaud Pain A lovely and quite clever French cafe/bakery - the name ‘Chaud Pain’ (‘Hot Bread’) sounds a lot like the last name of Warsaw’s darling, Fryderyk Chopin. This airy boulangerie churns out a range of artisanal breads and baked goods. Soak up the Parisian ambiance with a coffee and croissant, or grab a sandwich and other to-go goodies from their delicatessen: high-quality caviar, meats, cheeses and more. Très chic.QG‑5, ul. Ossolińskich 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 797 01 29 41, www.chaudpain.pl. Open 08:30-19:00; Sat 09:00-19:00; Sun 09:00-18:00. TU6

Bułkę przez Bibułkę A great little place that makes you feel like you’re in a smalltown setting. Serving all-day-breakfasts, from bagels to soups and sandwiches, a proper Cappuccino or Americano along with it only costs you an extra 5zł. Furthermore, 0.5l wine is 18zł from 18:00-21:00 daily, and Prosecco only 7zł! Also at Żurawia 6/12 (G-8), ul. Zwycięzców 32 in Saska Kępa(M-8), and ul. Puławska 24 in Mokotów (H-13).QG‑8, ul. Zgoda 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 28 55 22, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl. Open 07:30-23:00; Fri 07:30-24:00; Sat 08:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. T6

Cafe Bristol If you can’t afford to stay in the sumptuous Hotel Bristol, that certainly doesn’t preclude you from enjoying their wonderful ground-floor cafe overlooking a park just minutes from the Old Town. This classic interiors of this historic meeting place (opened in 1901) are a great place to have breakfast (until 12:00), a light meal, or coffee and cake served in the tradition of the finest pre-war Viennese coffeehouses. Slow time down until it’s merely a triviality.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 551 18 28, www.cafebristol.pl. Open 09:00-20:00. T 74

Dining | Coffee & Sweets

Go well beyond the typical breakfast buffet at Nova Wola.

Nova Wola This elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel restaurant will help you start the day off right with light and healthy breakfasts based on fresh, local, organic ingredients. Enjoy the breakfast buffet, or go a la carte with a custom omelette, shakshuka, avocado toast with kale tapenade, or baked sweet potatoes with yogurt, berries and granola. You can even order an entire pot of coffee to really caffeinate yourself for the day ahead.QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.cpwarsawthehub.com. Open 06:30-10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30-11:00. TU

Być Może... Start your day with the aroma of coffee and croissants in this sophisticated French bakery/bistro. Filling breakfasts include their fresh baked bread and are served all day. Choose from stacked bagel sandwiches, shakshuka, French toast, loaded oatmeal, or their take on the notorious Croque Madame. For us the poached egg (something we’ll never master at home) reigns supreme, and is featured in several hearty sets we’re happily working our way through. Find a second location at ul. Dobra 22/24.QH‑12, ul. Bagatela 14, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 519 00 00 14. Open 08:00-22:00. T6

Charlotte. Chleb i Wino Enjoy croissants with jam or traditional egg dishes anytime since trendy Charlotte slings all day breakfast. All ingredients are sourced locally, and vary depeneding on the season. Their chocolates and jams are made with home recipes, giving that extra dose of niceness. Also found at ul. Próżna 7, Nowy Świat 6/12 and ul. Kieślowskiego 7.QG‑10, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55, www.bistrocharlotte.pl. Open Mon-Thu 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:00-01:00; Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-24:00. T6 75

Traditional Polish Dishes Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego! Barszcz A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

Bigos Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Gołąbki Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

Golonka This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman. 76

Local Flavours | Traditional Polish Dishes

Kotlet Schabowy Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

Pierogi Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

Placki Ziemniaczane These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

Żurek It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl. 77

New & Featured | Dining

Gather your posse for premium casual dining in Nova Wola (p.82).

Dining in Warsaw Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego! 78

Dining | New & Featured

Epoka Polish This fine food experience comes courtesy of Chef Marcin Przybysz, the 2014 winner of Top Chef Poland, whose interpretations of traditional Polish cuisine can be rivaled by few. The impeccably prepared tasting menus, comprising either 15 or 20 consecutive morsels and small dishes, will take you through the epochs of Polish history. The menus can be paired with wine or nonalcoholic drinks by professional sommeliers, and then there’s the feast for the eyes provided by the interior design - the deep jewel tones and swanky furnishings are the work of Slovak set designer and architect Boris Kudlička. Don’t worry about overstaying your welcome, either - Epoka remains open until the last guest (do note that the kitchen closes at 21:30). Recommended. QG‑5, ul. Ossolińskich 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 666 11 55 66, www.epoka.restaurant. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-01:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€€. TU6

Bez Tytułu utensils International This high-end casual restaurant is all about sharing food and experiences. The vibe here is cosy and intimate, while the menu, composed by Chef Piotr Ceranowicz, is filled with small and large dishes designed to be shared by diners. These include intriguing pairings like tartare with black garlic, escargot with parsley, or halloumi with watermelon and mint, which go well with Bez Tytułu’s selection of classic and inventive cocktails (sake with gin and aloe, anyone?). The hospitality is also strong here, with the restaurant remaining open until the last guest is ready to leave (note, however, that the kitchen stops serving at 23:45). QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 516 03 31 24, www.beztytulu.com. Open 17:00-23:45; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. XT6

Upscale | Dining

Fine dining Epoka’s design is so impressive, we’d happily eat in the kitchen (p.79).

Belvedere

BI BA BO Restaurant & Cafe

utensils Polish Located inside the ‘New Orangery’ in the middle of Łazienki Park, Belvedere is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious and romantic restaurants. Essentially a mid-19th century greenhouse, this spectacular venue features floor-to-ceiling windows and is filled with tropical plants, including an over 100-year-old palm tree. Elegant, intimate table settings are placed amongst the indoor foliage, as well as outside, where peacocks wander the grounds. The food lives up to the first-rate atmosphere, with a concise menu of fresh seafood, meats and seasonal dishes, and a brunch menu is served Sundays. Consistently listed in the Michelin guide for over a decade, a glance at the prices reveals this is hardly a place to drop in after a day in the park; dare we say women are right to assume a booking here means something big is in order.QI‑12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 606 10 20 02, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-17:00. €€€€. TBE

utensils Polish This oddly-named restaurant refers back to Warsaw’s interwar aura of glamour, grace and fame, when ul. Nowy Świat was the capital’s entertainment epicentre - home to dozens of cabarets, theatres and cinemas. One of the most famous cabarets was ‘Bi Ba Bo’ - a place where you might hear Szpilman play piano or see Pola Negri dance with snakes. Looking to embody the ‘Roaring 20s’ of a new century, this incarnation of Bi Ba Bo pays homage to the past while meeting the modern demands of an eclectic and cultured clientele. Indulge in coffee or spirits in a nostalgic interior decorated with period sheet music and theatre posters, or try delicious Polish cuisine enriched with international flavours. Bi Ba Bo has designed a winning dining experience not by just creating an environment of good taste, but by encapsulating an entire era.QG‑6/7, ul. Nowy Świat 66, MNowy Świat - Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 513 51 97 77, www.bibabo.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:0018:00; closed Mon. €€€. TUEL6

Symbol & Price Key utensils Category of Cuisine C‑1 Map Coordinate M Metro T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music N Credit cards not accepted B Outside seating X Smoking room available 6 Animal friendly

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

Dining | Upscale Klonn utensils International This lovely restaurant - enviably located metres from Ujazdowski Castle and Łazienki Park - is a place where nature, food and art intersect. The owners have brought their knack for design to the artsy, elegant interiors, built a new patio and extended the outside seating to envelop a 200-year-old tree. Michał Gniadek, scooping awards from Michelin and Gault & Millau, heads the kitchen, and creates exquisite dishes out of fresh, seasonal ingredients, many of which are designed for sharing. The octopus is particularly buttery and delicious, while the bone marrow appetiser is another unique opportunity to challenge your tastes. There are also dishes for children, and the wine list is truly excellent. Honestly, a visit here is so rewarding, it makes a trip to the nearby museums and parks that much more enticing. Don’t miss it.QH‑11, ul. Jazdów 1B, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 100 63 63, www.klonn.pl. Open 17:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00; closed Mon, Tue. €€€. TBE6

Emilii Plater 9/11

PREMIUM TASTE EUROPEAN KITCHEN AUTHENTICITY INTIMATE ATMOSPHERE

PAM PAM

Lobster House utensils Seafood The choice of seafood venues in Warsaw (and good quality seafood in Poland as a whole, for that matter) has steadily been increasing over the last decade or so, and Lobster House represents the zenith of this trend. Set inside a landmark building (the ‘house without corners’) along the Royal Route, the location alone suggests a top quality venue. And it is. Inside you will find a sleek space spanning 451m2 (which comes in handy when you have 7 aquariums housing your food!), and able to host 120 people (plus more outside during summer), along with an impressive 10-metre-long bar. The food is as fresh as it possibly can be, and just delightful. This is definitely The Lobster House. QG‑6, ul. Królewska 2, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 731 00 08 47, www. lobsterhouse.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€€€. TUB6 81

Upscale | Dining Nova Wola utensils Polish Encapsulating the spirit of the restlessly developing, trendsetting Wola district, this restaurant in the Crowne Plaza Hotel absolutely nails the ‘premium casual’ dining concept. In an industrial chic interior of polished concrete, gold furnishings, lots of glass and big city views, Nova Wola delivers a decidedly modern take on Polish cuisine, composed of high-quality, locally-sourced ingredients. Choose from rich soups to premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, plus a special seasonal menu, with many of the entrees available in larger portions ideal for sharing. This upscale, sociable atmosphere makes NW ideal for business, dating or get-togethers; make an evening reservation for over 5 people and get a complementary bottle of Ostoya vodka; na zdrowie!QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola. com. Open 12:30-16:00, 17:00-22:30. €€€. TU

PAM PAM Restaurant utensils International Found on stylish ul. Emilii Plater (modern, vibrant, with a touch of pre-war class), PAM PAM had us intrigued as soon as we walked into its mix of classic elegance and post-industrial bare brick, with a more private, even cosy back room. The entire place has a certain sophistication to it, which is matched by the premium menu. Relax, and let the very professional wait staff do their business - ever so helpful. Special mention must also go to head chef Paweł Rumowski, whose artistic flare is visible in all of the creative and light, but filling, dishes that will glide their way to your table. Stylish food, in both taste and presentation, a classy setting for business people having lunch meetings, or couples enjoying an intimate night out, the entire package here is just wonderful.QF‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 629 29 29, www.pampam.com.pl. Open 17:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€.

Seafood Station Restaurant & Oyster Bar utensils Seafood Just metres from the train station, this large, classy restaurant offers exquisite seafood, meat and caviar, combined with locally-sourced ingredients for one of the best meals in town. Enjoy Oysters Rockefeller, lobster, king crab, grilled tuna or traditional fish and chips, accompanied with wine, beer or a classic cocktail. The spacious, industrial design features a mezzanine and regal touches galore, while rooting its inspiration in working class fish markets (lots of tile). The food may be simple, but the ingredients are simply top-notch and really emphasize the bounty of the sea. A feast fit for Neptune!QD/E‑9, Aleje Jerozolimskie 93, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 660 22 66, www.seafoodstation.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. UB6

SWING Asian Fusion Restaurant & Cocktail Bar utensils Asian High-end fusion cooking and fancy cocktails are the name of the game at this elegant, modern establishment. The menu draws inspiration from the whole of Asia, offering appetising dishes that include salmon tartare with mango and avocado, Saint James’ baked mussels, octopus with turnips, and beef tenderloin with oyster sauce. Make sure to ‘swing’ by on Fri & Sat after 19:00 to see this venue live up to its name, as retro jazz concerts juice the crowd. In addition to being a fun night out on weekends, Swing is a perfect place for organising business meetings, formal dinners and all sorts of celebrations. QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 31, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 667 98 88 88, www.swingrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. E6

Rozbrat 20 utensils International For all intents and purposes, faultless. A fine dining experience of the old school, though the food has a contemporary twist and packs a seriously sophisticated punch. The menu is seasonal and changes regularly. As for the wine list, it needs no introduction: it is one of the best in all of Poland, and the knowledgeable staff will help you choose the best complement to your meal. An indulgence worth going for. QI‑9, ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. (+48) 690 12 52 70, www.rozbrat20.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sat 14:0022:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TB6 82

Start your meal with Polish pickled herring in U Fukiera.

Dining | Upscale Thai Thai utensils Thai Run by Warsaw’s Godfather of Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No messing around with fusion concepts or making compromises. The Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition, and the spectacular results have earned a Thai Select certificate. Inside the National Theatre, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives no inkling of the opulence that awaits. Black walls with Thai designs and gold archways create a calming environment. The well laid out dining area also offers several more private spaces, great for business meetings or intimate dinner dates. Business lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 39zł.QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. XT

U Fukiera utensils Polish Warsaw’s oldest, most famous restaurant, with a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century. Under the star stewardship of Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, creating a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, and the guestbook with such haughty names as Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson - suggests that indeed you are. Right on the Old Town Square, enjoy the delicious, perfectly-presented food and soak up the regal atmosphere.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TB6

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas utensils Japanese Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining, and though the food may be great, the overall experience can be a bit ugh...tiring. As such, it’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating). Wabu is a place for all types of people, from businessmen and couples to tourists and even families, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, that blends in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is extensive and diverse, and includes a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer (Mon-Fri 12:0015:00, soup and 12 pieces of sushi for 39zł). Simple and elegant, Wabu has our hearty endorsement. QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TUB6 83

Casual | Dining

Casual dining Even vampires like the stakes at Beef n’ Pepper.

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.

Beef n’ Pepper

Browar Warszawski

utensils Steak Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s Texas shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€€€. TUE6

utensils International The revamped Warsaw Brewery is one of the largest, most modern brewpubs in the region, producing 19 craft beers on site, from contemporary IPAs to legacy ales from the days of the Haberbusch & Schiele Brewery. Choosing is hard, so try a tasting set. The menu is tailored to complement your liquid meal, and includes a truffle burger, fresh seafood, platters from the Josper grill, plus veggie options, signature cocktails and single malt whiskys. The post-industrial interior has plenty of intimate spaces, and also gives you a peak at the brewing process. All around a top venue for drinks, dining and making the rounds.QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 799 00 00 21, www.browarwarszawski.com. Open 16:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 13:00-24:00. €€€. BE

Dining | Casual Ciao Napoli

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem

utensils Italian Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square, Ciao Napoli’s aim is to bring a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Having originally opened on Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8 (F-4) to great success, boasting some of the city’s best pizza, imagine our delight when they opened this 2nd location with more seating, a bigger kitchen, and an expanded menu, with all the friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the first restaurant. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, seafood and desserts, it’s the choice of Neapolitan pizzas with their fantastic thin and crispy dough which really stick out. Lunch specials of soup, an entree and water are available Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 27zł. As if things couldn’t get any better, they have fresh mussels every Thursday, happy hours on weekdays with your second cocktail half price (16:00-19:00), and on weekends your 2nd bottle of Prosecco is half price! You leave satisfied, especially when you realise just how affordable the whole experience was, despite being in a tourist hotspot.QF‑3, ul. Długa 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 666 32 27 33, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00. €€. TB6

utensils Polish Located directly between the Royal Castle and the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly-priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi (15 types), potato pancakes with goulash and mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus like tripe soup and chicken livers with fried onions and baked apples. With a tidy, colourful interior and fast service, the experience is easy, accessible and satisfying. QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda.waw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00. €€. TB6

Clash Restaurant & Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw utensils International Making a hotel more than just a place for its sleepover guests, NYX has created an inviting firstfloor space where urban art and culture collide, and anyone can drop in. With an open floor plan that features traditional dining areas flowing into more casual zones with sofas and armchairs, The Clash’s unique visual aesthetic includes retro and modern furnishings, elegant place settings and gold cutlery, plus edgy photography and street art installations. Dine on a unique fusion of Polish-Israeli cuisine, order a signature cocktail, or challenge their bar staff to make you a custom drink. Take advantage of Happy Hour specials from 17:00-19:00, and don’t be surprised to hear live jazz or a DJ dialling up the vibes (check their FB to see what’s on).QD/E‑8, ul. Chmielna 71, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 346 29 00, www.leonardohotels.com/nyx-hotel-warsaw. Open 14:30-23:00. €€€. TUE6

Read and review over 275 Warsaw restaurants online

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Gościniec Polskie Pierogi utensils Polish You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: go-womp-ki). The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food hits the mark and the portions are immense. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 41 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00. €€. TB6

Namaste India utensils Indian Over sixteen years ago, what began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store quickly developed by demand into multiple full-service restaurants. This - the expanded original location - remains the consensus best Indian food in the capital, just ask anyone who lives here. The prices are set so low you can’t help but wonder what’s the catch - there isn’t one; we’ve tried the entire menu and it’s all delicious. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their private room for parties and meetings.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. BS 85

Casual | Dining Steakownia utensils Steak Ever wonder where your burger comes from? This farm-to-table steakhouse isn’t afraid to tell you. With it’s own farm of 700 free-range cattle in northeastern PL, Steakwonia serves only seasoned and matured meat from their own 23-month-old castrated bulls. Drop in for an undenieably delicious burger, or one of their uniquely juicy, tender steaks, with the sauce and sides of your choice. The steakmasters will help you select a choice cut, and even advise you how to prepare their premium meats to perfection at home (the restaurant doubles as a shop). If you just want an excellent steak, without all the fancy finery that often comes with quality dining in the capital, head to this no-frills meatery.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 62 27 19, www.steakownia.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. B6

Tehran Restaurant utensils Middle Eastern Experience new tastes and celebrate Warsaw’s multiculturalism in Tehran - the capital’s only authentic Persian restaurant. This popular diner has won the adoration of locals with their beautiful, large portions of exotic Iranian specialities. The menu features lots of grilled mutton and lamb, halal kebab and eggplant paste, flavoured with mint, rose, pomegranate and saffron (don’t miss the Persian ice cream!). Vegan, halal and kosher restrictions can be easily accommodated, there’s a terrace and to top it all off, they are just the nicest damn people, you can’t suppress the good vibes. For the full effect, do your digesting with a traditional shisha pipe and a cocktail.QG‑7, ul. Gałczyńskiego 9, MNowy Świat - Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 537 10 02 51, www.tehrankuchniaperska.pl. Open 12:30-22:00. €€€. BSV6

The Alchemist Grzybowska utensils International We’ve always loved The Alchemist for their craft beer and cocktail chemistry, but these days the real reason to visit is their award-winning food (Gault & Millau 2020). While you can get gourmet interpretations of Polish standards and bar classics like burgers and fish & chips, their specialty is juicy steaks grilled and served on hot lava plates. The presentation is as sleek and pleasing as the interior design. Perfect for a business lunch, after-work drink, social gathering, romantic date...well, I guess we can’t think of any occasion we wouldn’t want to come here for. Also at Pl. Piłsudskiego 3 (F-5).QE‑7, ul. Grzybowska 5A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 375 92 22, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. B6 86

The Legendary Jack’s Cinema Restaurant & Bar utensils American Inside a pre-war tenement building, Jack’s is a bar, restaurant and event-only cinema with a classy postindustrial interior punctuated by literally hundreds of JD bottles blotting out the ceiling. The steaks, burgers, ribs and wings are outstanding, and aside from Tennessee whiskey there are dozens of other mixed drinks; they even have their own beer. Keep an eye on their FB page for karaoke, concerts and other events in the mini cinema, kick back in their deep sofas and enjoy the show. Cheers, Jack!QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 400 28 23, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:0024:00. €€. TUBE6

Tokyo Sushi utensils Japanese Located right on Nowy Świat (with a lovely seasonal terrace, plus additional locales in the Blue City and Galeria Mokotów shopping malls), Tokyo Sushi is a great place to take a break from shopping or sightseeing for a healthy and filling lunch. The menu is absolutely exhaustive, encompassing almost any kind and combination of sushi you could desire, plus soups, salads, sashimi, gunkan, tartar, hot dishes with rice and 650ml bowls of ramen. If you can’t decide what you want, simply grab what looks good (everything?!) from the ready-made sushi rolls and salads going by on the conveyor; each is colour-coded by price from 8-15zł. Popular with the local business lunch crowd, there are many value deals to be had in the afternoon - including weekends - and the sheer volume of food being served ensures that all the ingredients are exceptionally fresh. QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 50, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 657 15 89, www.tokyosushi.com.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. TB V6

U Barssa utensils Polish The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. As you walk from the market square into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list. They also have a huge summer garden and occasional live music, so call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-23:00. €€€. TB

Dining | Casual

Food Markets | Dining

Food Markets Browary Warszawskie - Food Hall Browary

The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.

Food Hall Browary

Hala Gwardii

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars (Leżakownia), this impressive new food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.20). With 11 different contemporary food concepts to choose from ranging from Silk & Spicy’s authentic Thai cuisine to Dziurka od Klucza’s new panozzo sandwich venture, ‘a’Panu occo?!’ - there are plenty of enticing options, including a wide selection of breakfasts and special lunch offers. The focal point is the impressively large Central Bar, well-stocked with craft beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of veteran bartender and bar manager Karim Bibars. Grab a seat at a communal table and get socializing.QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00.

The grimier twin number of Hala Mirowska - its adjacent neighbour to the west (p.28) - these two enormous brick buildings were built as market halls at the turn of the century. Miraculous survivors of WWII, while Mirowska quickly returned to its function as a vast indoor market where you can buy almost anything, Hala Gwardii served as a bus depot, eventually becoming a sports hall and home to the ‘Gwardia’ Policemen’s Sports Club - hence the name. Today it still features a boxing ring, small boxing museum and portraits of Polish boxing legends on the walls, but since 2017 has returned to a modern version of its roots - as an eclectic indoor food hall and hipster marketplace focused on local and organic products. The neglected exterior gives it an alternative edge, while inside you have dozens of the city’s top gastro concepts to choose from, plus

Dining | Food Markets coffee, alcohol and other drinks, as well as a market of local food products. Worth checking out each weekend for frequent food festivals and other very cool events.QE‑6, Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1, MRondo ONZ, www.halagwardii.pl. Open Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-21:30 only. 6

Hala Koszyki This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016. Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Sobremesa Tapas Bar, Port Royal and Zachodni Brzeg - to some of Warsaw’s top name gastro brands, like Ćma and Warszawski Sen. One of THE places to be seen in the capital - easily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Don’t forget to look up, down and sideways as beautiful details abound!QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00.

Nocny Market (Night Market) Occupying an abandoned railway platform, Warsaw’s legendary Nocny Market (Night Market) aims for the atmosphere of a Beijing street market and the vibe of a Berlin club. The largest street food market in PL, this is a full-on feast for the senses where you’re guided by colourful neon lights, tantalising smells assault your nose as you wander from stall to stall, live bands and DJs set the mood, and intoxicating drinks pour forth from the fully stocked bars. If you really want an experience you can’t forget you can even get a tattoo here. With a huge diversity of culinary offerings from around the world, this is definitely one of Warsaw’s coolest places to eat, drink and chill when the weather’s warm. To get there take a tram to ‘Pl. Zawiszy’ and walk towards ‘Warszawa Główna’ train station. Alternatively, take the Metro to ‘Rondo Daszyńskiego’ and walk the short distance. Use warsaw.jakdojade.pl for live transit connections. QC‑9, ul. Towarowa 3, MRondo Daszyńskiego. Open Thu 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-01:00; Sun 16:00-23:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed. This seasonal event runs from mid-May until the end of September. 89

New & Featured | Nightlife

“May you have warm words on a cold evening, and the road downhill all the way to The Alchemist (p.94).”

Nightlife in Warsaw In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (H/I-4); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)! 90

Nightlife | New & Featured

3/4 Koneser Bar Cocktail Bar If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum, this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - earl grey, beetroot and lemoncake are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. Sip them straight or in delicious modern cocktails inside the refined post-industrial interior that transports you back to Warsaw’s interwar glory days. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and they also host live music from time to time. Na zdrowie. QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www.koneserbar.com. Open 14:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-20:00; closed Mon. UB6

Ether Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw

Cocktail Bar Step onto this 19th-floor terrace bar for a breath of fresh air, and the views might just take it away. Nestled amongst the capital’s soaring skyscrapers, this open-air rooftop lounge features stylish furnishings, classy cocktails to match the scenery, plus street food, snacks and occasional live music and DJs. It’s perfectly legal to get this high; in fact, you don’t even need to be a guest of the hip NYX Hotel to lose your head in the clouds. QD/E‑8, ul. Chmielna 71, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 346 29 00, www.leonardo-hotels.com/warsaw/nyx-hotel-warsaw. Open 12:00-01:00. UBE6

Bars | Nightlife

Bars “Whack for my daddy, oh...” (p.95).

BarKa

El Koktel

Seasonal Bar Brainwave for the heatwave, Barka is basically a flat-topped barge, pimped up to look modern and cool by the designers at Project Praga. Once you’ve navigated the narrow gangways and the security blokes you’ll find a bar, concert and dance area. A whole series of gigs and guest DJs appear throughout the summer and the venue is regularly mobbed with partygoers. In fact it gets so busy that many visitors prefer to just make use of the riverbank area in front of the moored barge to chat and listen to the music. Our sympathies go out to you if you need to make use of the portaloos (Toi-toi in Polish).QI‑6, Skwer im. Tadeusza Kahla, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik. Open 11:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-06:00. Open May-Sept only. BE

Cocktail Bar Moody and elegant, this sophisticated cocktail bar serves signature drinks with performative flair. The imaginative menu of classic and modern mixed drinks changes seasonally; during our recent visit the sci-fi/space exploration theme featured delicious drinks with names like ‘Enter the Void’ and ‘Johnny Silverhand,’ and the range of unique ingredients included nutella liqueur, agave nectar, bison grass absinthe and pomegranate tincture. These alcohol alchemists even make their own flavoured gin (cleverly named ‘Gin Dobry’), which you simply must sample by ordering a classic G&T. Also on the menu: wine, craft beer, and antipasti boards. Ring the doorbell to be admitted.QG‑7, ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, MCentrum. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-01:00; closed Mon, Sun. B6

Symbol Key Category

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

C‑1 Map Coordinate

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside Seating

M Metro

X Smoking room available

6 Animal friendly

Nightlife | Bars Hard Rock Cafe Cocktail Bar Sure you don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. Hard Rock Cafe’s large downstairs bar is jumping at night even when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. The endless bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung to Madonna’s early 90s frame. And, of course, there’s live music - Wednesdays and Fridays starting at 19:00. Check their social channels for special events like parties and monthly visits by a children’s entertainer who will watch over your young’uns while you imbibe some hard alcohol in peace.QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, www.hardrockcafe.com. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. 6

Miami Wars Seasonal Bar There may not be any sand, but this is one of the greenest, most lush riverside bars in the capital - with great views of Saska Kępa beach. The spacious area consists of multiple wood-planked terraces - one of which is heated, a bar with a huge selection of prosecco and rum-based cocktails, gastrobars offering burgers and vegan food, and a lovely meadow where you can have a picnic, grill or bonfire. A popular hangout with cyclists and water sports enthusiasts, they host film screenings, DJs and even have a fleet of motorboats offering river cruises. Absolutely worth the trip.QK‑8, ul. Solec 8, www.miamiwars.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-03:00; Sat 10:00-03:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. B

Myata Lounge Cocktail Bar The first Myata Lounge in PL, this franchise might be familiar to those who have wandered over the border east. Known for good food, great drinks, shisha smoke, sexy Slavs and general debauchery in a sleek, modern interior full of plush love seats, Myata covers a lot of bases, but what makes it special is its regulars, who would rather go hard than go home. It’s a few-fucks-given kind of vibe that only the young and beautiful can pull off, and they do it here. The menu ranges from wasabi shrimp to burgers, quesadillas and seafood risotto, and they offer almost 300(!) flavours of shisha. There’s Guinness on draught, but you’ll find most guests sipping cocktails. If you were hoping Warsaw would be a bit more Wild, Wild East, check this place out.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 6, MCentrum, www.myatawarszawa.tilda.ws. Open 12:00-01:00; Fri 12:00-04:00; Sat 16:00-04:00; Sun 16:00-01:00. X

Plan B Dive Bar Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are low – so low you’ll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela - known locally as ‘Hipster Square.’ It’s a fitting moniker and you’ll discover why when you get to Plan B, the area’s flagship bar. This place has seen minimal investment, with a design that must have set the owner back the price of a packet of sausages; decor is limited to little more than tatty posters, black tiles and sofas. Job done. But Plan B is astonishingly popular, especially with students, the DIY crowd and those who look like they’ve just finished band practice. In summer the party spills outside, with gangs of drinkers chucking frisbees and sharing sneaky puffs on Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is rife and encouraged, and it’s only fair to mention that this place has become a bit of a magnet for expat lads attempting to pick up Polish girls.QG‑10, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, MPolitechnika. Open 14:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-03:00. XB

Read and review 175+ Nightlife venues

iyp.me/warsaw/bars-pubs-clubs 93

Bars | Nightlife SWING Asian Fusion Restaurant & Cocktail Bar Cocktail Bar Right on the Royal Route, Swing is one of the capital’s most sophisticated and upscale destinations for dining, drinks and, yep, swinging cocktail parties. The elegance exuded by day is nicely offset by the creativity of the Asian-fusion cuisine and the relaxed atmosphere created by the staff and clientele, particularly in the evenings, which belies all the finery. The cocktails are excellent, and they have an ample offering of wine and champagne to enhance the mood when local musicians bring the energy during retro swing concerts on Friday and Saturday nights after 19:00. It don’t mean a thing, if it ain’t got that Swing.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 31, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.swingrestauracja.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. E6

The Alchemist Metropolitan Cocktail Bar Patenting the ‘future of drinking’ themselves, The Alchemist’s ‘Beer Wall’ was the first of its kind in Europe. With a handy card, you can pour yourself as many drinks as you like from the 8 taps on the wall - typically local craft beer and prosecco. Gizmos aside, however, the signature cocktails that shimmer, swirl and smoke are where the Alchemist earns its name, and their award-winning food (Gault & Millau 2020) makes this venue a must-visit. On the menu are delicious burgers, steaks and innovative interpretations of American and British classics. If all this wasn’t enough, in the summer it’s the spacious terrace that draws the locals to lounge around for hours enjoying The Alchemist’s experimentation. Second location (without the Beer Wall) at ul. Grzybowska 5A (E-7).QF‑5, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, MRatusz Arsenał, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. TU6

The Legendary Jack’s Cinema Restaurant & Bar Cocktail Bar Bottles at the bar, bottles on the ceilings, and why not, considering your signature alcoholic drink is one of the world’s most recognisable brands? Not just a bar, this spot does some great American style grub, from burgers, steaks and BBQ ribs to fried chicken. What’s more, the quirk of this place is the cinema screen round back, great for films, live screenings of sports events or as a space for live music and other events. Come here for a drink, food, and definitely check out their events calendar on Facebook.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. TUBE6 94

Nightlife | Bars

Whiskey in the Jar

Wilcza Okocim Grill & Bar Beer Pub

Cocktail Bar First opened in Poznań in 2013, it didn’t take long for Whiskey in the Jar to become something of a local institution, and the quickly-expanding brand now boasts locations in several cities, including this glorious establishment in the centre of Warsaw. Known primarily for its steaks and rock n’ roll aesthetic (including frequent live concerts), it might be easy to assume that WITJ is merely the Polish version of a certain international chain, yet this place exudes authenticity and is very much a passion project for the team that runs it. So while you’ll get choice cuts of seasoned beef, mouthwatering burgers, a wide selection of craft beers and of course the eponymous whiskey served in jars, there are also some traditional Polish tastes on the menu - and always the looming possibility of a pyrotechnics display or a Harley tearing through the place while you’re there. Definitely a fun experience for those looking for something different.QG‑10, ul. Marszałkowska 53, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 798 80 56 18, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00-23:30; Mon 13:00-21:30; Tue 13:00-22:30; Sun 13:00-21:00. UBE6

Sports Pub A brilliant venue for anyone who believes a pub should be a casual, social place, where friends can drink good beer, watch the game and have a solid feed. This place looks the part with an interior of exposed brick, green booths and dark wood finishing, set over two levels, with a seasonal patio. First and foremost a sports pub, there’s not a seat inside or out without a view of the match of the moment. The menu - a mix of barbecue and burgers, steaks, goulash and golanka (traditional pork knuckle, try it!) is outstanding, and the national Okocim lager should serve you well, but they also have Guinness, Brooklyn EIPA and Grimbergen Blonde on draught, plus a full bar. All told it’s more than anyone deserves to expect from a modern sports pub.QF/G‑9, Ul. Wilcza 35/41, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 621 35 06, www. okocimbeer.pub. Open 14:00-01:00; Mon 14:00-24:00; Fri 14:00-02:00; Sat 15:00-02:00; Sun 15:00-23:00. €€. B6

Read our interview with the owner of Whiskey in the Jar, p.18

Clubs | Nightlife

Clubs

Some call it bold, some call it brassy, they call it SASSY Warszawa.

A clubbing paradise, the capital certainly has some special nightclubs and Varsovians know how to party. Dress your best, anticipate a cover charge at any place worth getting into, and be prepared to greet the dawn. If you don’t make it till sunrise with this crowd, you’re probably doing it wrong. Baila Show & Dining

NEW ‘Baila’ literally means dance in Spanish, and here it’s a literal call to action and command to live in the moment. Delivering on the promise of their name, Wednesday and Thursday host evening concerts, while Friday and Saturday nights see this place pack out with patrons eager to enjoy delicious Latin American dishes and premier eye-pleasing performances on their stage (reservations required Fri & Sat), before going wild themselves during DJ afterparties. Dripping with intrigue, Baila adheres to a ‘what happens in Vegas’ philosophy and the less you know about what you’re getting into, the better the payoff. During the week, enjoy the colourful interior and oysters, steaks, salsas and other menu items with a bit less titilation.Qul. Grzybowska 60, tel. (+48) 514 06 06 24, www.bailawarsaw.com. Open Mon, Tue 12:00-23:00; Wed, Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri 12:00-03:00; Sat 13:00-03:00; closed Sun. €€€€. BE 96

DZiK House of Fun and Culture Located right near Łazienki (check it out after a visit to the park!), DZiK is one of those wonderful places that defies concise characterisation. In essence it’s an old residence (1927 to be exact, which is fitting as it seems like a place that Gatsby would have hung out if he’d ever made it to Warsaw), with lots of its original furnishings, a glorious 1000m2 courtyard garden, and a wide spectrum of happenings that attract a diverse and inclusive local crowd - everything from burlesque, cabaret, concerts and DJ nights to children’s events and yoga sessions. The restaurant serves European cuisine and it’s a lovely place to drop in for a date or a glass of wine. We list it here in clubs because the dance parties last loooong on the weekends, but you never know what could be happening here. Keep an eye on FB to find out.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 44 A, MPolitechnika. Open Wed, Thu 12:0024:00; Fri 12:00-03:00; Sat 12:00-04:00; Sun 12:00-23:00; closed Mon, Tue. BE

Nightlife | Clubs Hulakula Entertainment centre by both day and night, but once the kids are getting tucked in, Hulakula drops its family-friendly daytime disposition for party vibes. Although unusual, the idea to also use this huge entertainment centre as an after-hours hangout place with friends is absolutely brilliant and the fun is irrepressible as this place turns into a different kind of rumpus room. DJs often play weekends, and it’s worth checking their calendar for other concerts and events.QJ‑4, ul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Thu 12:0024:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. XU

neighbours Baila, the diverse calendar of events ranges from well-known international DJs and singers to drag queen shows and other more risqué affairs. Given that In Your Pocket has long billed itself as a ‘cheeky’ city guide, in that regard we tip our cap to the bar staff for the fashion designer themed cocktails they’ve devised, though we do feel a bit bad for the treatment that Giorgio Armani received. One of the hottest clubs in Warsaw, reservations are a must, and depending on the type of performance, there’ll be table bookings with dinner included.QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 58, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 784 52 67 00, www.sassywarszawa.pl. Open Fri, Sat 20:00-05:00 only. E

Level 27

Selavi

To anyone with vertigo, a word of warning: as the name suggests, this is not some dingy cellar club, but rather an ecstatic rooftop party that puts you in the centre of Warsaw’s skyline. Rated one of the best clubs in the world, Level 27 occupies the top floor of a modern skyscraper, and includes a 450m2 open-air terrace in the summer. A showcase for high society’s beautiful people, DJs typically spin R&B and hip hop, but anything can happen from fire shows to fashion runways (check their FB). Arrive early for an incredible sunset, or better yet, keep pace with these party people to see it come up again from the best vantage point in town. Are you on the level?QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. (+48) 733 66 10 94, www. level27.pl. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. E

The folks behind this multifaceted establishment just steps from Ogród Saski (Saxon Garden) have taken on quite the task for themselves, as their selfdescribed motto is to show their patrons ‘the life’. Which life you might ask? It’s all in the name, ie Selavi, or in its original French rendering C’est la vie. Part fine dining restaurant, the menu features a wide variety of well-crafted European fare, including excellent seafood and steaks; for the more budget conscious, who still like to enjoy a bit of decadence, the set menu lunch gets the approval of both our wallet and palate. On weekday evenings, Selavi is a top-notch cocktail bar, while at the weekends it morphs into a late night club, where some of Warsaw’s most beautiful inhabitants come to dance the night away and usher in the dawn.QF‑6, Plac Małachowskiego 2, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 535 31 89 33, www.selaviwarsaw.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0004:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. BE

Room 13 Club & Lounge Warsaw has had the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) in the last decade or so, and after visiting venue upon venue, Room 13 is one that truly stands out. Located in the heart of the legendary Mazowiecka Street, the interior is a striking mix of sleek contemporary club fixtures, furnishings and lighting with high ceilings, stunning archways, columns and other old architectural characteristics of the historical building it’s located in. Low sofas and pillows adorn the interior, and if your idea of heaven is two bars, a VIP room, a wide array of music and lots of high heels, check your pulse, you might be dead already.QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 13, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 798 11 39 15, www.room13.pl. Open Thu.-Sat 22:00-05:00 only. X

Sassy Warszawa

NEW Our friends at Google define sassy as ‘lively, bold, and full of spirit; cheeky,’ and this Fri & Sat only club in the Browary Warszawskie (Warsaw Brewery) entertainment district definitely meets all of those criteria. Promising evening entertainment like their

The sun may go down, but things stay lit on the terrace of Level 27

Clubs | Nightlife SLA Warsaw Don’t let the stately, nondescript façade fool you, once you enter you’ll be met with an incredibly eclectic selection of food, drinks, smokes (by which we mean shisha) and décor. It’s fitting, as ‘SLA’ refers to the mythical Shangri-La, where everyone lives in harmony and enjoys the finer things in life. With a menu that ranges from Chinese bau and Japanese tempura shrimp to beef tartare and smoked duck salad, as well as some fine pizzas, there should be something to please everyone. It’s after dark, however, that SLA really shines, with every drink imaginable served from behind a 14-metre bar - said to be the longest in all of Poland, and unforgettable parties. At 600m2 total, there’s plenty of space to lose yourself over this ‘lost horizon.'QG‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.slawarsaw.com. Open 18:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-05:00. E

Smolna This bunker club based on the Berlin techno model is situated in a grand old City Centre townhouse, just seconds away from the ‘Palm Tree’ (p.43). The music delves into the diverse, murky depths of electronica and the organisers are pretty radical, so you never know what kind of musical journey they’ll take you on. Three dancefloors - including one poutdoors (the neighbours love that one), three bars and a chillout room make up this hugely popular venue. Keeping things enigmatic and secretive, they have a strict ‘no photos/no smartphone’ policy and pretty cryptic marketing campaigns so you know they’re serious. Expect queues at the entrance, but the door policy seems to be in place simply to keep out aggressive yobos and anyone with a camera around their neck. QH‑8, ul. Smolna 38, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.smolna38.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-08:00 only.

Teatro Cubano Warsaw What’s that warm Caribbean breeze blowing through the centre of Warsaw? Must the blast of fresh air emanating from this sultry, rhythmic Cuban lounge and dance club. With giant palms flanking the entrance, as you enter you are enveloped by the joyful vibes and vibrant blues and yellows of this huge, spacious club with high ceilings and a massive bar at its centre, behind which is the large stage which regularly hosts international touring acts and DJs mixing Latino and pop music. Attracting a young, international crowd of students, locals and travellers, diversity is something PL could use more of, and this boisterous club embraces it. Stop by!QF‑5, ul. Fredry 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 538 19 44 94, www.teatrocubano.com. Open 22:00-03:00; Thu 22:0004:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00. XE 98

Nightlife | Adult Entertainment

Adult Entertainment If you’re in Warsaw and simply have your mind set on going to a strip club, we advise you to stick to our recommendations, which are vetted and centrally-located. When it comes to these types of establishments, we’ve heard reports of 8,000zł being spent willingly in one club listed here, and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwillingly in one we don’t list. As ever, we urge you to be mindful, mind your manners, deal only in cash, don’t let anyone order drinks for you, and generally keep your wits about you. A good rule of thumb is to avoid street solicitation of any kind, especially if it comes in the form of a sweet girl with an umbrella inviting you to a club for a ‘drink’; also don’t get roped into buying a drink unless you know its price and can afford it. If you’re going to the club of your choice by taxi, make sure the driver takes you to the correct club, and not one miles away with whom they have a partnership. Employ good common sense and we’re confident you’ll have a night to remember, not regret.

Playhouse Gentleman’s Club This smart gentlemen’s club, located in a chunky communist era building on al. Solidarności, has sustained their success with a classy approach to showing off the female form in luxurious surroundings. Their reputation in this market has even gone international, with influential website AskMen.com voting them the ‘Best Strip Club in the World’ back in 2013. Three floors covering over 800m2, four bars, three VIP rooms, an in-house ATM and 57 sizzling hot women make Playhouse THE place to visit for the discerning gent with a penchant for the erotic. Payment methods accepted: cash, card, Bitcoin and Paypal.QD‑5, Al. Solidarności 82A, MRatusz Arsenał, www.playhouse.pl. Open 21:0005:00. X

Sogo Club The largest of all the strip clubs in Warsaw at a size of 1200m2. Sogo is ridiculously easy to get to from any part of Warsaw. Simply head to the beginning of ul. Nowy Świat (G-8, at the Palm Tree) and you’ll see the brightly-lit building in the distance. The place consists of three levels: the main hall containing two bars and hundreds of seats, the VIP rooms, and even conference facilities. Should you want more privacy, the Gold Club option provides private rooms with a dedicated lounge bar and washroom facilities. The club has their customers’ desires in mind and will stay open longer if you feel you simply cannot leave by 05:00.QH‑7/8, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, MCentrum, www.sogoclub.pl. Open 20:00-05:00. X 99

Shopping

Fashion and culture collide at KLIF (p.102).

Shopping in Warsaw Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting! 100

Shopping

Amber & Jewellery Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origin - certified by the International Amber Association. Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

Lilou A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must-have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Galeria Mokotów and Sadyba Best Mall.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilouparis.com. Open 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00*.

perfumes and accessories has gone down well with fashion bloggers and Varsovians alike! In Arkadia, you can’t miss it - it’s located right at the front entrance!QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 323 72 33, www.victoriassecret.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00*.

Fashion & Accessories

Gifts & Souvenirs

Victoria’s Secret

E-Manufaktura

This boutique certainly needs no introduction. Even if you know nothing of fashion, you’ve no doubt heard of Victoria’s Secret, the brand that has become synonymous with stylish lingerie and glitzy angel-winged fashion shows. Warsaw, it seems, is delighted to have Poland’s only VS stores, and although previously their only boutiques in the city were on the smaller scale of grand, focusing mainly on accessories & perfumes, the new store in the city centre’s Złote Tarasy shopping mall is much bigger than before (now including Victoria’s Secret PINK), but the opening of Poland’s first VS flagship store in Westfield Arkadia Shopping Mall, with the full selection of clothing, including their lingerie,

It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on. Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn’t get more Polish than this. A must use service. QF‑3, ul. Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e-manufaktura.com. Open 10:00-18:00. 101

Shopping Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. At Pomaluj.art you not only get the chance to buy gifts, but you can join workshops (offered Tue-Sat 14:00-20:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and will teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! Show the Warsaw In Your Pocket guide or map to receive an in-store 8% discount!QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 11:0019:00; closed Sun.

Markets BioBazar Once a thrice-weekly event in Mokotów, this popular organic food and produce market has found a permanent, daily address inside the newly revamped Norblin Factory. A lovely space packed with outstanding food products that are not only certified organice, ecological and health-conscious, but also locally-produced as well, you can bet on a daily selection of fresh fish, meats, dairy, fruits and veg, baked goods, oils, cosmetics and more. If you have the budget, food shopping doesn’t get any more appealing than this. There’s also an organice bistro on-site where you can a healthy breakfast, lunch or a glass of natural wine.QC‑7, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 508 71 74 45, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 07:3016:00; closed Mon, Sun.

*Sunday Shopping in PL In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays, aside from 2022’s 7 shopping Sundays: Jan 30 | Apr 10, 24 | June 26 | Aug 28 | Dec 11, 18.

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Shopping Malls Designer Outlet Warszawa Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior specifically made to make you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30-70% off on brands like Adidas, Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Desigual, Gant, Guess, Furla, KARL LAGERFELD, Levis, Liu Jo, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and many more. Found just 30mins from Warsaw’s city centre, and 20mins from Warsaw Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (for the latter get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’ and use a zone 2 ticket).Qul. Puławska 42E, Piaseczno, MWilanowska, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00*. TU

Dom Mody KLIF Klif has been attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years, with locations across Poland. If you think you’ve seen this all before, however, you’re mistaken. This is the capital, after all, and the quality of brands is exceptionally high, not to mention the stunning showrooms inside. Shop top tags like MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi, PennyBlack, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld and DM Moda, as well as respected mainstream brands like Olsen and S’portofino. Another draw is the convenient, easy to get to location - roll in by tram, bus or car. What’s more, anyone can use the services of the pro stylists at FASHION STUDIO, and this is also the only shopping centre to have a concierge point.QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00*.

Galeria Młociny Found in the north-western district of Bielany, and easily accessible via metro to the final stop, ‘Metro Młociny Bus, Tram & Metro Station,’ this is one of Warsaw’s newest, most impressive shopping malls. With over 200 stores (including Poland’s first Primark), a ‘meet and eat’ dining area containing 40 food and drink venues (open Sundays), a super-modern cinema complex, gym and MK Bowling alley (also all open on Sundays). The topping on the cake is the impressive rooftop terrace where you can enjoy various cultural events such as dances, shows and concerts. There are also 2000 parking spots should you choose to drive.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15, MMłociny, www.galeriamlociny.pl. Open 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00*.

Shopping

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Venue Index Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com 3/4 Koneser Bar Adam Mickiewicz Monument Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line Anielewicz Bunker Archdiocese Museum Baila Show & Dining Bar & Books BarKa Beef n’ Pepper Belvedere Belvedere Palace Bez Tytułu BI BA BO Restaurant & Cafe BioBazar Blikle Café Botanical Garden Bombaj Masala Wola Bristol Hotel Browar Warszawski Browary Warszawskie Bułkę przez Bibułkę BUW Gallery

55, 91 39 101 67 36, 62 96 35 46, 92 84 80 49 79 42, 80 102 42 50 21 40 84 20, 30 74 47

Być Może... 75 Cafe Bristol 74 Czerniakowski Port & Promontory 13 Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 75 Chaud Pain 74 Chopin Monument 49 Chopin Recitals 41 Ciao Napoli 35, 85 Clash Restaurant & Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw 85 Copernicus Science Centre 25, 47 Designer Outlet Warszawa 102 Dom Mody KLIF 102 DZiK House of Fun and Culture 96 Elektrownia Powiśle 46 El Koktel 92 E-Manufaktura 101 Epoka 79 Ether Bar at NYX HOTEL WARSAW 91 Europejski Hotel 40 Fabryka Norblina 30 Food Hall Browary 88

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Fryderyk Chopin Museum 44 Galeria Młociny 102 Gnojna Góra 36 Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 35, 85 Gospoda pod Zygmuntem 85 Hala Gwardii 88 Hala Koszyki 89 Hala Mirowska 28 Hard Rock Cafe 93 Hulakula Leisure Centre 70, 97 Hydrozagadka 55 Invisible Exhibition 62, 64 Jan Kiliński Monument 34 Jewish Historical Institute 67 Katyń Museum 62 Klonn 81 Kufle i Kapsle 93 La Playa 14 Łazienki Park 48 Level 27 97 Lilou 101 Lobster House 81 Lubię To 35 Lunapark 14 Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum 63 Miami Wars 93 MK Bowling Entertainment Center 71 Moczydło Water Park 16 Multimedia Fountain Park 72

Venue Index Museum of Dollhouses, Games & Toys 36, 63 Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship 51 Museum of Life under Communism 63 Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch 36 Museum on the Vistula 47 Myata Lounge 93 Nadwiślańskie Świt 46 Namaste India 85 National Ethnographic Museum 63 NBP Money Centre 63 Neon Museum 55 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument 42 Nocny Market 89 Nova Wola 75, 82 Officer Cadets School 51 Old Orangery 50 Old Town Defensive Ramparts 34 Old Town Square 25, 36 Palace on the Island 51 PAM PAM Restaurant 82 Pharmacy Museum 36, 64 Pinball Station 73 Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire 30 Plac Grzybowski 26 Plac Piłsudskiego 28 Plac Zamkowy 33 Plan B 93 Playhouse Gentleman's Club 99 Płyta Desantu Beach 13 POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews 25, 67 Polish Vodka Museum 55 Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki 71, 102 Poniatówka Beach 14 Potocki Mausoleum 53 Powiśle Mermaid Statue 45 Praga Beach 14 Praga Koneser Center 55 Praga Museum of Warsaw 55 Presidential Palace 40 Przystań Nowa Fala 46 Room 13 Club & Lounge 97 Royal Castle 34 Rozbrat 20 82 Saska Kępa Beach 14 Sassy Warszawa 97 Saxon Garden 28

Seafood Station Restaurant & Oyster Bar 82 Selavi 97 SLA Warsaw 98 Smolna 98 Sogo Club 99 Stacja Grawitacja 70 St. Anne's Church (Wilanów) 53 St. Anne's Church & Tower 38 Steakownia 86 St. John the Baptist Cathedral 37 Suntago Wodny Świat 16 SWING Asian Fusion Restaurant & Cocktail Bar 42, 82, 94 Tehran 42 The Pavilions 42 The Vistula Boulevards 13 Teatro Cubano Warsaw 98 Tehran Restaurant 86 Thai Bali Spa 70 Thai Thai 83 The Alchemist Grzybowska 86 The Alchemist Metropolitan 94 The Cool Cat 46 The Legendary Jack's Cinema Restaurant & Bar 86, 94 The Little Insurgent Monument 35 The University of Warsaw 41 Tokyo Sushi 86 Traficar Car Share 23

U Barssa 35, 86 U Fukiera 83 Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art 64 Ul. Kanonia 37 ul. Nowy Świat 43 ul. Ząbkowska 55 Veturilo Public Bike 23 Victoria's Secret 101 Vistula Boulevards 25, 45 Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas 83 Wał Miedzeszyński 407 16 Warsaw Barbican 35 Warsaw National Museum 64 Warsaw Photoplasticon 73 Warsaw Rising Museum 25, 69 Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens 47 Warsaw University of Technology 30 Warsaw Zoo 73 Warszawa Powiśle 46 Whiskey in the Jar 18, 95 White Pavilion 51 Wilanów Palace Museum 25, 52 Wilanów Park & Gardens 25, 52 Wilcza Okocim Grill & Bar Beer Pub 95 W Oparach Absurdu 55 World of Illusion 36, 71 Zachęta National Gallery of Art 64

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Warsaw In Your Pocket City Guide_ Summer 2022

Articles inside

Venue Index

Shopping

Adult Entertainment

Clubs

Bars

New & Featured

Food Markets

Casual Dining

Kids & Families

Breakfast & Brunch

Traditional Polish Dishes

New & Featured

Warsaw Uprising

Activities

Jewish Warsaw

Museums

Art Tourism

Praga Map

Grażyna Hase Fashion Exhibit

Powiśle Map

Powiśle

Łazienki Map

Old Town Walking Tour

Swimming & Bathing

Summer Buzz at Browary

Royal Route Map

City Centre Map

Transport

Riverside Beaches & Bars

Introducing Warsaw

Whiskey in the Jar Interview