The Royal Route | Sightseeing 3
Presidential Palace
Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests. Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791. Signed on these very grounds, it was the 2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski. A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon. After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. Rebuilt and frequently remodelled, at the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president (currently Andrzej Duda), which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square-jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48.
Curiosity Crossroads! Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Pisudskiego (p.28)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre (p.26) and on a path to Hala Gwardii and Hala Mirowska (p.28) - two massive indoor markets 1520mins on foot from where you’re standing. 40
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Bristol & Europejski Hotels
Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious Krakowskie Przedmieście street are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name but a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast (more on p.64).
Cycling past Bristol Luxury Hotel.
Photo F. Kwiatkowski © City of Warsaw
Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13). The first hotel to re-open after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, including Chaud Pain boulangerie (p.74), Lourse patisserie and EPOKA restaurant (p.79). Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques the most exclusive shopping experience in the country.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 & 13.
