FA L L W I N T E R 16 N E W YO R K
LO N D O N
PA R I S
DUSSELDORF
C O P E N H AG E N
Dec 01–09
Dec 14–16
Jan 22–28
Jan 29–Feb 01
Feb 03–05
N E W YO R K
MUNICH
MILAN
PA R I S
Feb 11–24
Feb 13–15
Feb 26–29
Mar 03–09
FA L L W I N T E R 16
WO M E N SW E A R
P R E FA L L 16
CONTENTS
&Daughter
02
Aries
06
Charlie May
10
Cinq à Sept
14
Dagmar
16
Designers Remix
20
Earnest Sewn
24
Folk
28
No Ka ‘Oi
32
Michael van der Ham
36
Samuji
40
Self-Portrait
44
Shrimps
48
Solace London
52
Solid & Striped
56
Todd Snyder + Champion
60
Sales contacts
64
02
& DAU G HTER
Born out of the belief that modern luxur y is about useful things beautifully made, &Daughter seeks to create a capsule of iconic knitwear. Working with Scottish and Irish artisan makers &Daughter uses only the finest natural yarns and expert craftsmanship to create seasonless investment pieces. Founded in London in 2013 by Buffy Reid and her father Columba Reid, &Daughter is a partnership that combines over 30 years experience. Columba grew up in Ireland and spent his career working in Scottish and Irish knitwear manufacturing. Buffy studied a Masters in Fashion at Central St Martins before working in fashion in London for over 10 years. Passed from father to daughter, their enduring fascination with knitwear derives from the belief that stitches tell stories. The creative journey of each season begins by taking the timeless detail of a stitch, a yarn or silhouette and re-imagining it with a modern point of view. Working with a range of luxur y natural yarns from Scottish-spun cashmere and lambswool to silk, mohair and alpaca, &Daughter uses the traditional knitting technique of fully-fashioning. Each part of the garment is knit separately and then hand-linked together, going through over 20 individual hand-finishing processes to create each final piece.
06
ARIES
Aries – created by Sofia Prantera, Fergus Purcell and Luca Benini – is a contemporary womenswear label inspired by the anti-consumerist youth movements of the second half of the 20th century, and to whose ethos its creators subscribe. Sofia wanted Aries to be a return of the 80’s sensibility where street-wear was fashion and vice-versa; “I decided to study fashion influenced by the antifashion streetwear approach of designers like Vivienne Westwood, Body Map, John Galliano and Katherine Hammett, and of magazines like The Face and i- D. Now streetwear is dominated by big, profit-driven companies and all creativity and unconventional approach to design is lost.” Patterns are made in house and garments are hand printed and hand dyed in the Aries studio. Fit is at the forefront of the Aries design process, going against conventional pattern cutting rule to create original shapes – achieving simplicity without sacrificing originality. “I love the way in fashion a product is created with first hand experimentation; this is almost impossible working within the constraints of a casualwear brand where schedules are tight and garments are rushed through the production process.” High ethical standards of production are a first concern with Aries, and all cloths and fabrics are produced and sourced in Italy and the UK.
10
C H A R L I E M AY
Since launching her eponymous label in 2011, Charlie has become recognised for her directional silhouettes and minimalist sensibility. A British womenswear designer, Charlie May embodies contemporary minimalism with a signature focus on silhouette, fabric and colour. With a nod to her rural upbringing in Devon, the use of silks, wools and leathers, in muted colour palettes, have become synonymous with understated luxury. Each season maintains a focus on detail and construction, producing wearable, effortless pieces for the modern woman.
14
CINQ À SEPT
Sharing its name with the French term for that liminal moment linking late afternoon and early evening , Cinq à Sept brings the intriguing tension bet ween day and night to a new advanced contemporar y collection. Inspired by the hours between 5 and 7pm, when city streets are awash in the warm glow of the vanishing sun and office desks are abandoned for outdoor drinks and unknowable possibility, Cinq à Sept embodies a deliberate balance between elevated sophistication and undone ease, between youthful daring and confident allure. The collection’s modern feminine aesthetic embraces unexpected details and fresh silhouettes, resulting in garments that draw their effortless romance and unstudied sexiness from the woman wearing them.
16
DAG M A R
House of Dagmar is a Swedish fashion house based in Stockholm, run jointly by three sisters Karin Söderlind, Kristina Tjäder and Sofia Wallenstam. The brand is named after the sisters’ late grandmother by the name of Dagmar, who herself was a tailor and model of confidence, ability and style. It is her qualities that form the blueprint of the Dagmar Woman. The brand is sophisticated, architectural and specialises in expressive knitwear. The collections are characterised by stylised natural forms, geometrical shapes and utilitarian design. Inspiration is taken from architecture, contemporar y art and culture. Dagmar is progressive in its approach to design, the use of sust ainable materials and production methods. Since the label Dagmar was launched in the Spring of 2005, it has been widely recognised by the Scandinavian fashion industry, as well as the press throughout Europe, United States and Asia; receiving several prestigious design awards for it ’s achievements.
20
DESIGNERS REMIX
Designers Remix was founded in 2002 by Creative Director Charlotte Eskildsen and her husband and CEO, Niels Eskildsen. Designers Remix is an international Designer Brand offering advanced contemporary women’s wear with a Scandinavian design heritage. Charlotte Eskildsen has an architectural approach to every aspect of the design process and her inspiration is deeply founded in her Danish design heritage. Danish design icons, organic modernism and functionalism are key in every aspect of her creative process. Her unique design manifest is all about minimalism, architecture and 3D tailoring. Designers Remix has been seen on Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Jessica Alba, Rihanna, Kirsten Dunst, Helena Christensen as well as Her Royal Highness The Crown Princess of Denmark, Mary Elisabeth. Designers Remix is stocked in some of the world ’s leading stores including Selfridges London, Intermix USA , United Arrows Japan, I.T Hong Kong and Harvey Nichols Dubai.
24
EARNEST SEWN
Earnest Sewn was born in downtown New York, embodying the aesthetic of the city at the core of its collection. A denim brand which sets itself apart through its compelling concept and lifestyle identity, Earnest Sewn is simultaneously and exhaustively dedicated to producing quality. The brand, rooted in America’s denim heritage, combines this history with a contemporary urban appeal. Originally launched in 2004, the Earnest Sewn design principle was literally translated as product sewn in earnest. By honoring this standard, an unmistakable pride is emphasised in its workmanship and commitment to authenticity. Relaunching in 2015, the fusion of their legac y and contemporar y design is further demonstrated by the use of the highest quality fabrics with the modern era, via a production process engineered around environmental friendliness. By staying true to its roots as one of New York ’s first premium denim lines, Earnest Sewn cultivates perfected fits and unique washes, as well as key essentials with a modern twist. Earnest Sewn continues to produce a line of denim that reflects an unprecedented commitment to quality and individual style and is already stocked in some of the highest regarded stores globally such as Barneys, SSENSE, Liberty, United Arrows, Lane Crawford and more.
28
FOLK
Folk is a London based casualwear label with four stores in London, as well as being stocked in over 150 of the best independent and department stores worldwide including Liberty, Selfridges, Har vey Nichols and Isetan. The label was established in 2002 as a design led menswear label and the women’s collection was added in 2012 with a similar ethos of creating contemporary practical day wear. With a focus on fabric, fit and silhouette the collections create classic wearable pieces that have attrac ted the woman who appreciates understated yet sophisticated design.
32
NO K A ‘OI
Italian-designed and Hawaiian-inspired, No Ka ‘Oi is an action couture brand rooted in fashion, femininity and functionality. N o Ka ‘Oi is designed for fashion -for ward wome n w ho have uncompromising st yle and allows women to move seamlessly, confidently and comfortably through life. No Ka ‘Oi is designed for fashion, and created to work-out. It ’s not just about yoga, it is about a way of life… Launched in 2014, No Ka ‘Oi means “the best ” in Hawaiian, and that is what we strive for in our design and how we approach our customers life and their individual style. This collection takes you from the yoga studio to the office to drinks with friends. It is fashion-forward activewear that also performs.
36
M I C H A E L VA N D E R H A M
Dutch born Michael van der Ham graduated with an MA in Womenswear from Central Saint Martin’s under the renowned Professor Louise Wilson OBE. His graduate collection, inspired by Andy Warhol, featured multifabricated, modern shapes referencing by-gone areas. Van der Ham is known for his signature luxury collage dresses, pieced together from various clashing fabrications. A wide range of fabrics are used in each collection from metallic brocades and printed silks, fil-coupÊ jacquards and tweeds. For Pre Fall 2016 all experiment al fabric s have been bespoke developments taken from vintage luxury references for the collection of feminine cut-out, collage and mini dresses, whilst maintaining a contemporary price point. Unusual combinations are made with colour and pattern of florals and graphics throughout the pieces. Vip followers include Keira Knightley, Kirsten Dunst, Diane Kruger, Claire Danes, Joanna Newsom and Alexa Chung.
40
SAMUJI
Samuji is a creative studio and design house founded in 2009. Our work focuses on design and consulting , and is based on the values we hold dear in ever yday life: a love of necessar y things, simple functionality, and kindness. Our ambition is to produce timeless and sustainable design that serves a purpose yet carries a story. The first Samuji collection was launched in Spring 2011. Today, we present four ready-to-wear collections annually, and our homeware line Samuji Koti was introduced in Fall 2014. The word Koti means home in Finnish, and the collection consists of tableware, print fabrics, textiles and houseware items. The collections are sold in our two own stores in Helsinki, our online store and through selected stockists in Europe, Asia and America.
44
S EL F- P O RT R A I T
London based Self-Portrait was launched by Han Chong , in November 2013, in a bid to provide an accessible and contemporary brand. Han’s extraordinary talent for creating attainable fashion is showcased through an exquisite range of feminine dresses and separates creating transitional city-wear pieces using luxury fabrics at mid-range price points. Han’s designs are inspired by street style and contrasting hard and soft silhouettes in experimental fabrics with unexpected textures, that creates a feminine and sporty aesthetic with classic details. The studio’s collections include statement cocktail dresses, androgynous jackets and perfectly structured tees. Chong focuses on fusing classic details with edgy street style to create a modern look. Han has really built a strong worldwide reputation with a large celebrity following including Jessica Alba, Jennifer Lopez, Katy Perry, Kendall Jenner, Alessandra Ambrosio, Reese Witherspoon, Selena Gomez, Chiara Ferragni, AngelaBaby, Channel Iman, Ashley Madekwe and Lily Allen. Self- Por trait stockists include Selfridges, Net-A- Por ter, Matches, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Lane Crawford, Club 21, Stylebop and Excelsior.
48
SHRIMPS
Shrimps is a faux-fur fashion label from the young London-based designer, Hannah Weiland. With a background in History of Art and a diploma in textile design from the London College of Fashion, she takes her inspiration from the witticisms of modern art and a playful engagement with pattern and texture. Using carefully sourced fabrics that emphasise colour, Shrimps creates beautifully crafted pieces, perfect for the forward-thinking customer with a taste for the fun in fashion. Shrimps is sold by top international stockists and stores including: Neta-Porter, Matches, Colette and Selfridges. US Stores include: Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom SPACE, Kirna Zabete and Opening Ceremony. The brand continues to show on schedule as part of London Fashion Week. Shrimps is a British brand that captures British humour, creativity and innovative fashion.
52
S O L AC E LO N D O N
Former Brand Director Laura Taylor and Creative Director Ryan HollidayStevens share a dynamic and collaborative 10 year working history. Solace London is a contemporary womenswear brand founded by the duo in 2013. With a distinctly British sensibility and a design aesthetic built around core values of modernity and minimalism, Solace London’s collections of statement dresses and separates define modern graphic elegance with a focus on construction, craftsmanship and attention to detail. Having instantly established itself as the go to brand for statement evening and event wear Solace London already counts Kendall Jenner, Chanel Iman, Jennifer Lopez, Jhene Aiko and Chrissy Teigen as brand ambassadors. Stockists include Net-a- Porter, Selfridges, Bergdorf Goodman and Galeries Lafayette.
56
SOLID & STRIPED
Conceived in Water Mill, NY, Solid & Striped is a lifestyle brand made using the finest European and Japanese fabrics. Elegant simplicity defines their swimwear and classic essentials, which are available online and through some of the world’s finest retail stores. Solid & Striped launched in November 2012 and is based in New York City. The company strives to produce the most expertly crafted and timelessly chic swimwear and loungewear on the market. The product range has attracted a loyal following of industry leaders and tastemakers and has been extensively featured by publications including Vogue, W Magazine, Harper ’s Bazaar, Elle, GQ, Esquire, New York Magazine, WWD and countless others.
60
TO D D S N Y D E R + C H A M P I O N
For Todd Snyder ’s first foray into womenswear, in collaboration with Champion, he quite literally borrowed from the guys to strike the ideal balance between sporty sex appeal and tomboyish ease. Inspired by the simultaneously charming and provocative act of a woman wearing her boyfriend ’s clothes, he played with the juxtaposition of oversized and formfitting shapes, rough and soft textures, and considered how it feels to pull on an item imbued with such private meaning. The ongoing design partnership between Todd and Champion’s Global Creative Director Ned Monroe, once again references past classics from the Champion archives, but reworked with sleek lines and a modern edge, the collection presents a fresh version of iconic sport style that is completely her own. Silhouettes nod to well-loved essentials – his softest sweatshirt, his perfectly worn-out tee, his slouchy sweatpants – refined to flatter a woman’s body. Proportions are still roomy, but cropped, cuffed and tapered for a personalized, feminine fit. Standard issue tees and tanks are reinvented in fluid fabrics with beautiful drape and a luxurious hand feel, while that collegiate favourite – the varsity bomber – gets an urban update in streamlined contours and tough yet supple leather accents. Merging authentic gym uniforms with classic American tailoring , and fusing legacy with a contemporary outlook, these versatile pieces are effortlessly wearable and instinctively desirable.
64
S A L E S C O N TA C T S
& DA U G H T E R
M I C H A E L VA N D E R H A M
sales@and-daughter.com
jessica@pollykingandco.com
ARIES
SAMUJ I
emily@pollykingandco.com
sales@samuji.com
C H A R L I E M AY
S E L F - P O RT R A I T
emma@pollykingandco.com
jazmin@pollykingandco.com (INT) natalie@pollykingandco.com (US)
CINQ À SEPT mbarreto@jayallc.com
SHRIMPS
kfan@jayallc.com
pa@awaykin.co.uk (INT) meghan@pollykingandco.com (US)
DAG M A R yohanna@houseofdagmar.se
S O L AC E LO N D O N emily@pollykingandco.com (INT)
DESIG N ERS REM IX
chelsea@pollykingandco.com (US)
sales@designersremix.com(INT) meghan@pollykingandco.com (US)
SOLID & STRIPED emily@pollykingandco.com (INT)
EARNEST SEWN
chelsea@solidandstriped.com (US)
tiiu@pollykingandco.com (INT) audrey@earnestsewn.com (US)
TO D D S N Y D E R + C H A M P I O N meghan@pollykingandco.com
FO L K karlijn@folkclothing.com NO K A ‘OI franca.foligatti@nokaoi-apparel.com