POPCULTURE Issue 20

AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2016

FREE COPY

S U B S C R I B E T O U S F R E E : P O P C U LT U R E L I V E . N E T

FA C E B O O K & I N S TA G R A M @ P O P C U LT U R E L I V E

ISSUE 20

FROM GUIYANG TOKYO THE WORLD

#POPCULTUREVISIT

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#POPCULTUREVISIT

#POPCULTUREVISIT

#POPCULTUREVISIT

CHOSUNGAH22 BOXES CAFE

SUNSILK SUNWAY PYRAMID CONVENTION CENTRE

SHU UEMURA PAVILLION

#POPCULTUREVISIT

URBAN DECAY UPPERCASE BANGSAR

BELVEDERE FUZE CLUB KL

MELISSA + JEREMY SCOTT ZOUK CLUB KL

WHAT YOU NEED THE MOST - TIMBERLAND

Don’t Mess With Us

W // www.timberland.com.my FB // TimberlandMalaysia IG // Timberlandmy

On Wednesdays, we wear pink. But on every other day of the week, we suit up in our toughest clothes and pursue the modern trail. And because nobody should ever sacrifice on looking good, we gear up in Timberland for that effortless style. Only the toughest clothes for the toughest people, be ready for anything.

Be equipped for a life in constant motion. Have your things all in one place when you’re on the go. Look the part, feel the part.

Nantasket Backpack

The basic necessity of every wardrobe, this slim fit jeans will be your best friend through your clean shaven days and your rugged days.

Squam Lake Cordura® Denim RM479

Long Sleeve Slim IndigoRM349 Pattern Nothing says chiseled and sharp like

a mono-coloured shirt. Wear as an outerwear for adventure days and button up when official business calls.

Your accessories speak levels about you. But functionality is as important. Have both with a bag that does well whether indoors or outdoors.

Shopping Bag

Good shoes take you to good places. This thick-soled Chelsea gives you all the edge you need while looking stylishly chic. Pair it up with jeans.

Amherst Chelsea RM599 With Buckle

This reversible shirt is perfect for your versatile spirit. Throw on shorts for a casual vibe or pair up with a jacket for a cleaner look.

Sudbury River 2 Layer Shirt RM319

SPECIAL FEATURE - SOMERSBY Whether it’s the start of the week, mid-week or the weekends itself, one thing’s for sure, we all crave #thatweekendfeeling.

Now, you can satisfy it with Somersby’s Blackberry Cider!

There is no rule that says that all the good vibes from the weekend can’t be enjoyed during the weekdays too. So get your friends together for some good fun, hangout, eat good food and top it off with Somersby.

Refreshingly crisp and immensely fresh, Somersby Blackberry Cider is sure to pick you up in an instant! And who can possibly say no to good ol’ cider filled with the unmistakable tinge of fresh and naturally mild taste of

blackberries? Kick back, relax and leave it to this one to help you and your friends unwind. We love that the best way to enjoy Somersby Blackberry Cider is still to go somerita - a fun drinking ritual of a Somersby bottle served upside down over crushed ice. What you’d get is unexpected, extremely fresh and well balance.

Enjoy this now in selected modern bars and restaurants across Malaysia! If you would prefer to enjoy Somersby Blackberry Cider in the comfort of your own home instead, it can also be found at all major supermarkets and hypermarkets now.

#ThatWeekendFeeling w i t h u s

Serve it chilled, over ice or even cook up your own cocktail! A personal favourite recipe we’d love for you to try is to mix Somersby Blackberry Cider with grape juice, club soda and vodka. Top it off with a plump purple grape and you’ve got yourself a real fruity cocktail!

COVER FEATURE ON THE FIRST PHASE OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ON HAVING HER OWN PHOTOGRAPHY STUDIO

“It happened 5 years ago while I was 19 years old - a freshman majoring in Animation back in Chongqing, China. My best friend Ruka owned a online boutique store on Taobao. I helped her out with a really basic beginner DSLR, it was a Nikon D300. We were and still are a really good team. It was from photographing for the online boutique that I found interest in photography. I think photography and animation shares the same sense of visual pleasure, it’s self expression through visual creation. It was perfectly reasonable for me to get into a photography studio as an assistant to learn more about a more overall aspect of photography.”

“I was only 21 when I started my own photography studio with a partner. It was after my 3 - 4 months apprenticeship at the photography studio. I learned a lot and figured that I loved it enough to want to have my own. We had a total investment of 20 - 30 thousands yuan. The studio lasted about 1.5 years and I decided to pull out. It wasn’t easy. Treating your passion as career changed the dynamics of your passion, especially in photography. I found owning a studio was making me losing myself as I had to constantly care about pleasing the clients, feeding them with their own visual aesthetics needs, bringing enough income to sustain the business and et cetera. I lost in touch with myself.”

ON TRANSITION (SCHOOL, SELF, CITY) “After pulling out from the photography studio, I started to pick up French and pretty inspired to move to France for a while. I was desperately seeking liberation, thirsty for a chance to find myself again. I dropped out of school, and realized that France might be too much of a cultural shock for me. I rethought my decision and decided on Japan, along with my friend Ruka. My parents gave me some initial money mostly to get plane tickets and kickstart my Japanese language course. I spoke no Japanese then. An one way ticket and heart full of curiosity and passion were all I had.

ON MAKING IT IN TOKYO AND STARTING A NEW LIFE “It wasn’t me that got discovered first. It was my friend Ruka (@luluxinggg). She already built up a fan base and a large collection of photos of herself from the online boutique age. She was discovered on Instagram and got into modeling eventually. Inspired by the borderless nature of Instagram and Ruka’s experience, I started to reach out to unique personalities I can find on Instagram. There are various things that attract me in people, I scout and collect people in my own unique way. It is an abstract energy that I can’t put into words.

I am attracted to people who emit rebellious yet fragile energy. There is beauty in between such combination of gun and rose. I’m working my way towards balancing both elements. I shoot a lot of models that are trying to shine through a sea of stars. They need photos for casting. Sometimes I also get paid gigs from there. All the dots are connected. You can say that Tokyo was an important site of identity formation for me, a place where I experimented with my senses. ”

ON INSPIRATIONS AND FINDING SELF “I remember Chen Man was already pretty big while I was exploring photography. I set her success to my own definition of photography, and tried to learn postediting and master Photoshop. However, I was actually being disrespectful to my own visual process. I focused on post not present while photography should really be all about the present. After this realization, I sold off my Nikon D300, got myself some Fujifilm disposable film cameras, and a Fujifilm X100. I’m taking it slowly and surely. The imperfections that accompany the nature of disposable film camera inspire me, it give that pop of oh-so-important quirks that no other camera can beat.

It changes the way I see the world.”

MORE THAN A VISUAL DIARIST “I’m now hired on contract basis with an online boutique on Taobao. I spend my time in between Shanghai and Tokyo mostly for this job. It’s fun that I get to travel around to shoot for living, and having a chance to experience things at the same time. I usually have 2 weeks in a month for my own. I try not to numb myself with all these new sensations and constant reallocation and always question “Am I being true to myself? Am I channeling my own voice?” I can’t complain but be grateful for sure.”

ON HER FAVOURITE PHOTOGRAPHERS “Currently, I’m inspired by Nan Goldin and Renhang.”

TEXT BY PRESTINE D

x chininhi chininhi D www.chininhi.com

COVER FEATURE

SUPA GOOD - FOR HIM

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He went to Parsons School of Design. He was the the former creative director of Balenciaga. He is Taiwanese American. He has insatiable curiosity.

He's unapologetically obsessed with pop culture.

Over decade, he had created very recognizable style and set of codes that lead fashion - Alexander Wang. This issue’s SUPA GOOD for men is built on the idea of affordable luxury, according to Wang unpretentious, wearable pieces that were not defined by a price point or category, all under one cohesive vision - minimalistic. We imagine what would Wang has at home, wear, and use.

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23 1) Alexander McQueen - Horn-Handle Umbrella RM2753, 2) John Smedley - Belvoir M2erino Wool Rollneck Sweater RM625, 3) Oliver Spencer Loungewear - Fleece Robe RM1320, 4) Derek Rose - Morgan Leather Slippers RM533, 5) Tom Dixon - Charcoal Scent Diffuser - Earth RM617, 6) Aesop - Grooming Kit RM533, 7) Maison Margiela - Leather-Trimmed Coated-Shell Backpack RM2943.26, 8) Maison Margiela - Mykita Round-Frame Acetate Sunglasses $545, 9) Braun - BN0106 Stainless Steel Watch RM2317, 10) Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Oud, Patchouli RM903, 11) This Is Ground - Bandito Leather Lifestyle Roll RM301, 12) Common Project - Achilles Low Wool RM1181, 13) Balenciaga - Phileas Full-Grain Leather Backpack RM4426, 14) Montblanc - Extreme Leather Passport Holder RM718, 15) Velva Sheen - Two-Pack Cotton Blend Jersey T-Shirts RM324, 16) Acne Studio - Triple Lo Leather Sneakers RM1529, 17) Taschen - Ai Weiwei Hardcover Book RM208, 18) Le Gramme - Le 15 Brushed 18-Karat Gold Cuff RM10428.81, 19) Orlebar Brown - Bulldog Mid-Length Swim Shorts RM764, 20) B&O Play - BeoPlay A2 Bluetooth Speaker RM2665, 21) Common Projects - Original Achilles Leather Sneakers RM1390, 22) Alexander Wang -T By Alexander Wang Slub Jersey T-Shirt RM347, 23) Balenciaga - Slim-Fit Tapered Fleece-Back Cotton-Jersey Sweatpants RM2247

SUPA GOOD - FOR HER

W H A T W O U L D K Y L I E R O C K ?

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Kylie Jenner is fast becoming the most talked about member of the Kardashian/Jenner clan despite being the youngest member. Since stepping away from her sisters and finding her own style, she has blown up and 3we can't get enough! We've had our eye's closely on Kylie's look - and her instagram - and her snapchat, and whether it be her ever changing hairstyles, her 90's inspired looks, rocking minimalistic outfits or flawless make-up, we're OBSESSED. Take on Kylie's style by checking out our curation of fresh and contemporary pieces that Kylie would totally purchase.

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1) Missguided - Pointed Toe Neoprene Heeled Ankle Boots Cream RM239, 2) Sunday Riley - Luna Sleeping Night Oil $105, 3) Jimmy Choo - Anouk Dégradé Glitter-finished Leather Pumps $630, 4) Kylie Cosmetics - Kylie Lip Kit $29, 5) God Save Queens - Bikini Top $75, 6) Puma - Fenty Fur Slide $80, 7) Bossa Store - Ibiza Bikini Set $168, 8) Fendi - Karl Pom Pon $1450, 9) Céline - Medium Tri-fold Shoulder Bag RM9910, 10) IRO - Anja Rubik Gabor Shell Bomber Jacket $492, 11) Christian Louboutin - Canditate Pearly Suede Point-Toe Pumps RM5126, 12) Balenciaga - Classic City Textured-leather Tote $2190, 13) Protagonist - Bias Silk-charmeuse Midi Dress $456, 14) Hervé Léger Giselle Bandage Halterneck Jumpsuit RM7791, 15) Maiyet - Silk-charmeuse Dress $485, 16) Moschino - Printed Acrylic iPhone 6 Plus Case $81, 17) Cornelia Webb - Slized Convertible Gold-plated, Suede and Silk Choker $208, 18) Balmain - Embellished Suede Waist Belt $1785, 19) The Row - Happy Hour 7 Painted Leather Shoulder Bag $785, 20) Chloé - Black Track Pants $874, 21) Kendall + Kylie - Ayla Suede Over-the-knee Boots RM965, 22) Friends - Layla Leather & Rose Gold Headphones $187

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COOL STUFF 4 1

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Cast Brass Plant Holder

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Fire Charcoal Scent Diffuser

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Guidelines Magazine Rack

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Iridescent Bowl

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A6 Water Memobottle

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Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil

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Brass Mirror Series

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Belvédère 9

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THÉVOZ — CHOQUET | thevoz-choquet.com TOM DIXON | RM393.98 | mrporter.com FREDERIK ROIJÉ | $245 | aplusrstore.com

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KATHERINE GRAY | $1040 | thefutureperfect.com MEMOBOTTLE | $24 | memobottle.com FIVE OLIVE OIL | $45 | fiveoliveoil.com

FALKE SVATUN | falkesvatun.com

INGA SEMPÉ | 75,00€ | moustache.fr

BeoPlay A6 Speaker

B&O PLAY | RM4264.43 | beoplay.com

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Murakami Bookend & Paper Weight

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Atmosphere Clock

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Xpress-PRO

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David Taylor Table Top Clock

DAVID TAYLOR | $3855.00 | thefutureperfect.com

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Tank Painted Glass Decanter

TOM DIXON | RM783.34 | mrporter.com

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Ultra premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil

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Brass Mirror Series

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SuperSignal Walnut And Aluminium Digital Radio

STUDIO DESSUANT BONE | 49,17€ | designerbox.com

DAAN SPANJERS | daanspanjers.nl

BRICWAVE | $129 | kickstarter.com

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FIVE OLIVE OIL | $45 | fiveoliveoil.com

FALKE SVATUN | falkesvatun.com REVO | RM1557.44 | revo.co.uk

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THE TINY TEMPTRESS

fb + ig / thetinytemptress

HANGOUT GUIDE

Pretty Temptations w / www.thetinytemptress.com

Store@ No 8-1, Jalan Radin Bagus 8, Bandar Baru Sri Petaling, Kuala Lumpur 57000 Tel: 03- 9054 3716

You’ve probably already been seeing pictures of this one all over social media but that’s exactly why the desserts at Tiny Temptress have been dubbed “the most Instagrammable treats around town”. // Dainty, pretty and cute to the core, Tiny Temptress makes desserts that aren’t just irresistible to the eye but delightful to the palate as well. While the cafe was only opened recently, the brand has been enticing customers with macarons sold online since 2013. It’s understandable why the macarons here are all that jazz. Unlike other commercially sold ones, the ones at Tiny Temptress undergo a sugar reduction of 30%, resulting in a perfectly balanced shell that allows flavours to come through. The Salted Egg Yolk Macaron is a crowd favourite with its unique play of sweet and savoury notes coupled with their cute eggy expressions. The Teddy Macaron is also a real delectable treat with its luscious dark chocolate ganache filling, all painstakingly hand-piped and decorated for your pleasure. // For those who would rather a cake affair, Tiny Temptress also serves French entremet that will hit all the right sweet spots. The Bear Necessity combines unique flavours such as oolong and passion fruit while L’affection boasts lychee and strawberry flavours on a jaconde sponge.

These artisanal treats are all hand-crafted daily from scratch using premium ingredients. Win all your Instagram points here with how pretty they look! But don’t just keep it all to yourself, macaron towers are also available for custom order. So share these treats with everyone!

fb / Cream

CREAM

For The Coffee Lovers

ig / theroastthings

Whether your native tongue is coffee language, you can’t function without your daily cuppa or you dream of living in a home that constantly smells like freshly brewed coffee, Cream is the place for you. // The atmosphere changes when you walk into Cream. The cafe is airy, spacey and basking in natural light… but that’s not what they are known for. A micro roastery, The Roast Things have been in the business of roasting coffee for awhile now, supplying beans to several cafes and selling them in retail packs. Opening Cream is an extension of what they are known for, as they showcase and allow more people to taste their coffee. // The menu is rather straightforward: espresso-based coffee and cold brew in black/white, mocha and filtered coffee either cold or hot (the former being rather rare, but an experience of its own). Specialty tea is also served. None of the English blends one might be accustomed to, but rather premium quality tea leaves sourced from Yunnan. Sandwiches, cakes and pastries are also available! While Cream isn’t heavy on their food to ensure that focus doesn’t deviate from their coffee, we still highly recommend trying their Golden Cheesecake made from sweet potato and pumpkin. Love what they offer? Bring it home with you! Cream sells their beans in 200gm packs and have recently launched the Taster’s Box - a box packed with single serving coffees, 2 packs each from 5 different regions. With such variety, it’s also the perfect gift for any coffee lover!

Store @ A-G-01, Prima Avenue, The Tube, PJU 1/39, Dataran Prima 47301 Petaling Jaya, Malaysia Tel: 03- 5879 8392

HANGOUT GUIDE

GROUND EATERY

Yellow lights and the smell of freshly brewed coffee, the people at Ground Eatery do not look at themselves as owners of a cafe, but rather as people who love food. With that, their main priority is to always upkeep the freshness of their ingredients by hand picking their ingredients and being fully committed to ensure a unique culinary experience for everyone. // As each dish is prepared with passion, the chefs at Ground Eatery are constantly challenged to push the boundaries of creativity, to think out of the box to tantalize each and every customer’s taste buds. What patrons would find isn’t the usual food found in cafes but rather a creative and diverse menu. Open up your taste buds with the Braised Pork Gua Bao and Dino Egg - a nice reinvention of Scotch eggs. Eat to your heart’s content with the Grilled Lamb or Kimchi Bacon Pasta, and top off a good meal with the wonderfully satisfying Jack the Baba Eggettes. // Ground Eatery also serves coffee that will please even the pickiest of all coffee aficionados. Chill out with a good cuppa, or try something different like the Lavender Latte. Need a hideout spot to keep you away from the afternoon sun? Come and cool down with the Blushing Gingie! Whatever it is, Ground Eatery has you covered. Just like their name, Ground Eatery aims to remain loyal to their principle of sticking to their roots. And this is symbolised by a tree growing out of their wall. Come check it out!

ig / groundeatery

fb / groundeatery

Store @ Tower 4& 5 PFCC, Jalan Puteri 1/2, Puchong New village 47100 Tel: 012-751 1963

Store @ 101-1, Jalan Radin Bagus, Sri Petaling , Kuala Lumpur 57000 Tel: 03-9054 8686

fb / Soft Launch Cafe

From The Heart To The Plate

It is no secret that Sri Petaling is brimming with new cafes and eateries. But amidst all the hustle and bustle, lies the treasure trove that is Soft Launch on the upper floor of an office block. The dessert cafe runs on a concept that aims to continuously change and improve their menu to launch new and trendy ones on a regular basis. Hence, their name. // Soft Launch has been up and running for four months so far and has seen a steady flow of customers. It is run by close relatives Chelsea and Vera who have decided to joined their abilities. While Chelsea comes from a banking background, Vera comes from a baking one.

And here, they are occupied with serving good desserts and coffee in a warm and homey setting. Patrons will agree that their waffles are not to be left out and must definitely be tried - in various varieties and multiple quantities too! Savoury food is also served. // Signature dishes here include the Strawberry Waffle (crispy yeasted waffle with a generous amount of fresh cream, strawberries and maple syrup) and Chicken Waffle (crispy yeasted waffle with scrambled egg, fried chicken tenders and maple syrup). While the latter seems like a funny combo of sweet and savoury, it is surprisingly good! Soft serve is also available in several flavours. As they run on a mostly white theme with blue walls in the outdoor seating area (hello, natural light!), Soft Launch is also a haven for those who love nice photos!

Wafflemania

ig / softlaunchcafe

SOFT LAUNCH CAFE

HEALTHY LIVING

[ SKIN BFFS ] # Coconut Oil

What: First of all, there’s no significant difference between “extra virgin” and “virgin” coconut oil. They are both cold-pressed matured coconut flesh - extracted into a rich, fatty oil.

Why: Coconut oil is 90% saturated fats which means it is not only super rich but also super healthy. You can use coconut oil topically as a moisturizer or as an antibacterial solution against fungi, bacteria or yeast infections - it is an all natural solution to everyday skin problems.

# Apple Cider Vinegar

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BEAUTY GEEK’S GUIDE Ever read a product label and wondered “what the heck does this even mean?” Well, we have. That’s why, we are breaking down a list of beauty terminologies or commonly used ingredients we think everyone should know ranging from the skin bffs to the stuff your skin says “Oh hell naw!” to.

What: Apple cider vinegar is a type of vinegar made from apples. The best ones are unpasteurized and organic.

Why: Apple cider vinegar works like a charm as an antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral and anti-inflammatory agent. You can use diluted apple cider vinegar as a natural toner or quick-fix acne buster!

# Rosehip Oil

What: Rosehip oil is a type of oil extracted from a specific type of rose called Rosa Moschata. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamin E, vitamin C and B-carotene, vitamin A. Why: Beauty junkies are obsessed with rosehip oil because it contains high concentrations of essential fatty acids, vitamin E, C and B-carotene. These are all you need for anti-aging skin benefits and scar treatment.

# Shea Butter

What: Shea butter is a creamy-coloured fat extracted from the African shea tree. You’ve probably seen this in the forms of lotion and body butter.

Why: It’s simple - Shea butter contains vitamin A that is ultra moisturizing and helps with blemishes, allergies, insect bites, eczema, wrinkles and dermatitis.

# Salicylic Acid

What: Salicylic acid is a type of crystalline organic acid and it is one of the most basic and essential medications needed in the health system according to the World Health Organization.

Why: Salicylic acid is often used as an anti-inflammatory against acne, breakouts and blackheads. In short, it should be your best friend at the time of the month or if you have oily skin.

# Beeswax

What: Beeswax is the wax secreted by bees to make honeycombs and used to make wood polishes and candles.

Why: Beeswax is relevant to us because it is largely used as an emulsifier for our skin care products. They are super hydrating and super moisturizing - great as a lip balm or body lotion.

# Glycerin

What: Glycerin is essentially a thick, neutral liquid and it is a natural by-product from the soapmaking process.

Why: Glycerin is what they call a humectant, meaning it draws and attracts moisture to your skin, keeping it soft and supple. A high concentration of glycerin is normally only found in handmade soaps as commercial soaps tend to extract it out.

HEALTHY LIVING

TEXT BY DAPHNIE LOONG

3 SUPER EASY DIY BEAUTY TIPS/

To totally avoid most of these harmful chemicals, get your hands down and dirty and ,make your own cosmetics!

DIY PARSLEY FACE MASK

A handful of chopped parsley 2 spoonfuls of apple cider vinegar 3 spoonfuls of cooling plain yogurt How: Mix the solution, put it on your face, leave it on for 20 minutes, and rinse it off with lukewarm water.

HOMEMADE COCONUT MILK SHAMPOO

¼ cup coconut milk, unsweetened ⅓ cup liquid Castile soap ½ teaspoon jojoba oil ½ teaspoon avocado oil 15 drops rosemary essential oil (optional) 15 drops peppermint essential oil (optional) How: Combine ingredients in a squeeze bottle and shake well.

Wet your hair and squirt 1 to 3 teaspoons of the mixture onto your scalp.

Massage the mixture gently into your scalp, building up a rich lather.

Rinse well.

[ SKIN FOES ] Ethanolamines

What: Ethanolamines are from the alcohol family found in shampoos, creams, and various other cosmetic products.

Why: The thing with ethanolamine is how unaware we are of its carcinogenic effect on our skin and general health. Which is why this ingredient is banned in Europe.

Parabens

What: We hear this a lot especially around the organic/natural skin care circle for a good reason. Parabens are essentially preservatives for skin care to prolong its lifespan.

Why: Parabens gain their bad rep as they are said to disrupt the endocrine system and cause hormone imbalance.

HOMEMADE TOOTHPASTE

3 tablespoons coconut oil 1 1/2 tablespoons baking soda 25-30 drops Organic food grade peppermint essential oil Directions Mix all three ingredients in a glass dish or jar.

To use, simply scoop a little onto your toothbrush and add more peppermint or coconut oil as you go to suit your preference.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

What: SLS is a foaming agent found in most commercial cosmetics whether it’s your cleanser, bath gel or shampoo.

Why: SLS can strip moisture from skin due to its foam. Worse, it is also said to be carcinogenic.

Triclosan

What: Triclosan is an antibacterial compound found mostly in toothpaste and cleanser.

Why: Triclosan is suspected to be an endocrine disruptor and contribute to the development of antibiotic-resistant germs. Yuck.

Oxybenzone

What: Oxybenzone is one of those toxic ingredients you should avoid in sunscreen.

Why: Oxybenzone is highly associated to photoallergic reactions and functions like an estrogen in the body which can cause endometriosis in women and alter sperm count in men.

THE GOOD LIFE

YOUR WARDROBE IS COOL / BUT YOU ARE NOT COOL TO THE EARTH

Fashion is the third most polluting industry in the world, and the second largest consumer of water. Making fabric uses water, energy, chemicals, and other resources that most people don’t think about, or ever see. You think your wardrobe is dope, you are living the good life? The notion of good life only exist in making the best decisions at all times. We think knowledge is power, so let’s talk about resource use, climate change, and other impacts of fashion in this issue.

WATER/

We all know that the world is facing extreme freshwater scarcity - in fact over a billion people don’t have access to safe water. Fashion is the second largest consumer and polluter of water because processing raw materials and manufacturing clothing consume extreme amounts of precious H2O.

CONSUMPTION/

Manufacturing textiles is extremely water intensive.

For example, producing one pair of denim jeans uses over 900 gallons of water. This amounts to over 400 billion gallons of water every year just to make the jeans sold in the US.

CLIMATE CHANGE/

Contrary to what some of those crazies say, we think climate change is real and fashion is not making it better. From growing textile fibers to moving fabrics around the world, making clothes sadly fuels this global climate crisis.

TRANSIT EMISSIONS/

98% of clothing bought in the US was imported from abroad. A single cotton T-shirt transported from Xinjiang, China to Los Angeles results in over 9,000 “clothing miles” and over 2 pounds of CO2 equivalent emissions.

POLLUTION & TRASH/

The production of textile fibers uses 20 billion pounds of chemicals a year and some of them are just plain toxic.

PRODUCTION EMISSIONS/

Production processes emit CO2 and other greenhouse gases which pollute our atmosphere and contribute to climate change. For example, cotton, leather and other raw materials grown in industrial farming operations create huge energy footprints.

Also, polyester, nylon, and other petroleum-based materials emit harmful volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas almost 300 times more potent than CO2. Nearly half of the ready-to-wear products Americans buy are manufactured in China, where the textile industry emits 3 billion tons of soot each year, greatly impacting both human and environmental health.

AFTER-LIFE/

These textiles take anywhere from 30 to 200 years to biodegrade. When they do, they release chemicals like formaldehyde, heavy metals, BPA, and PFCs into the environment. So basically you wear it twice and it lives in a landfill with its formaldehyde and BPA buddies for 200 years.

[ BOOK ]

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FASHION AND SUSTAINABI -LITY/DESIGN FOR CHANGE/

MORE\

THE GOOD LIFE

TEXT BY PRESTINE D

CHEMICALS/

2,000 different chemicals, including formaldehyde, chlorine, lead, and mercury are used in textile processing.

Of these, over 1,600 are used in dyeing processes, but only 16 are actually EPA-approved. Um...

RUNOFF/

Runoff from these dye houses can contain heavy metals, alkali salts, toxic solids, and harmful pigments.

About 40% of colorants used around the world contain organically bound chlorine, a known carcinogen. It can cause cancer like tobacco, asbestos and DDT. What a nightmare-factory.

COTTON/

We do not think cotton is awesome. About ⅔ of all apparel is made from cotton, and we believe it has some of the most harmful environmental impacts of all fabric.

PESTICIDES/

Conventional cotton consumes 11% of the world’s pesticides and 24% of the world’s insecticides, despite the fact that cotton only uses 2.4% of total arable land.

Terrible ratio if you ask us.

WATER/

Most cotton requires high levels of irrigation and waterintensive processing. A cotton t-shirt can use up to 700 gallons of water to make (that’s close to 18 full bathtubs’ worth). Irrigation systems input and circulate chemicals into the groundwater, making cotton production the largest textile contributor to freshwater and soiltoxicity in the world.

This book examines how sustainability has the potential to transform both the fashion system and ideas that are transforming the fashion system at root into something more sustainable, including new business models that reduce material output. The third section is concerned with transforming the role of fashion designers and looks to examples where the designer changes from a stylist or shaper of things into a communicator, activist or facilitator.

THE TRUE COST/

Filmmaker Andrew Morgan dives to the bottom of the supply chain, to the garment factories of Cambodia and Bangladesh and the cotton fields of India, where he links ecological and health calamities to zealous pesticide use.

Garment workers subsisting on less than $3 a day recount beatings by bosses who resent unionization and requests for higher wages. At the same time, a factory owner in Bangladesh — where the 2013 collapse of the Rana Plaza building caused more than 1,000 deaths — tells us candidly that when retailers squeeze him, he must squeeze his employees. It is definitely a must-watch for fast fashion documentary.

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[ FILM ]

RESOURCES TO BINGE ON

IDEA SPACE

ART BY WABIKO ILLUSTRATION

# F A S H I O N L O G O O B S E S S I O N + x

@avanope

D www.avanirui.com

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Whether it’s Gucci creating real “fake” t-shirts or internet teen Asspizza knocking off Yeezy merch, bootlegging is something which has come to define the year in fashion.

Weighing in in her own way is Ava Nirui, a Dazed contributor who, when she’s not interviewing New York’s new wave designers or photographing the likes of Heron Preston, is turning everyday things into bejewelled fashion objects and posting the results on her Instagram. She is a writer, occasional photographer and object-maker from Sydney, Australia. Key examples? A Louis Vuitton inhaler, Prada basketball, and a series of Champion hoodies embroidered with brand names. But rather than the knock offs you’ll find on street corners, Nirui’s logo-heavy DIYs question the lines between real and fake, creativity and commerce, expensive and throwaway.

IDEA SPACE

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She’s arguably one of the most creative people on Instagram. As the Bonnie and Clyde of Instagram, her and trashhand walk through bustling streets, empty fields, and approach raging seas armed to document the stories crashing around them. Swopes is a lyricist — she’s also a graphic designer. The creative quality is stamped all over her Instagram feed. She brought the jungle to downtown Chicago, creating a series that is shocking, and quietly asks interesting questions about lost environments, and the effect of urbanization on our wildlife. She’s transformed multiple landscapes into museums for her spheres — a series that has often been imitated –, but nobody pulls it off like she does. Her top 5 photo editing apps are CrossProcess, Snapseed, Artstudio, MagicHour, Retouch.

@avanope Website: www.avanirui.com x Instagram: @swopes D Website: swop.es/

He used Instagram to become an Amazon best-seller. You've probably seen R.M. Drake's work on the Instagram feeds of celebrities like the Kardashians and Shay Mitchell. Set on handmade gray paper and in typewriter font are his literary prose that ruminate on love, death and loneliness. His posts garner thousands of comments but with the exception of an understated "r.m drake" signature at the bottom. Robert Macias, who goes by the name R.M. Drake, is a self-published writer. A writer since grade school, he was working as an art director for a television company in Miami when he started posting excerpts of his writings to social media and now he has 1.5 million followers on Instagram and still counting.

WE MUST UNDERSTAND...

HOW SADNESS IS AN OCEAN AND SOMETIMES WE DROWN, WHILE OTHER DAYS WE ARE FORCED TO SWIM.

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x @rmdrk D www.rmdrk.bigcartel.com x @textsfromyourexistentialist D www.textsfromyourexistentialist.com

Texts from Your Existentialist, a cheeky Instagram account that pairs renowned artworks with deeply Nietzschean quips, resulting in a stream of achingly bitter but oh-so-wonderful images that bemoan the state of human existence. April Eileen Henry is an artist and poet living in Los Angeles, California. This project began when April turned to art as a visual aid while she wrote poetry about her woes. Her aim is to bring more messages that speak to the pity party line and the seldom spoken sadnesses of life, rather than the alienating positive messages that pervade the internet today. She smokes too many cigarettes and is an incorrigible lover of F. Scott Fitzgerald.

# " N I E T Z S C H E A L L O N Y O U R M O U T H L I K E L I Q U O R . " +

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