80's Trendmap Report NTU FMB by poppywest99

trendmap report

TrendMap Report N0731532 Poppy West

ethics clause I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project.

Signed (student) ................................................................

Date.................................................................................... 2

contents

ABOUT TRENDS what is a trend? life of a trend trend forecasting the role of the media

6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13

THE TREND eighties excess timeline of the trend key designers: Versace key designers: Saint Laurent key designers: Isabel Marant influences on the trend street style

18-19 20-21 22-23 24-25 26-27 30-33 34-35

THE TREND IN THE HIGH STREET in-store shop safari online shop safari in-store interviews

38-39 40-41 42-43

THE EDITORIAL editorial moodboard editorial concept the magazine and consumer the editorial

46-47 48-49 50-51 52-59

CONCLUSION

60-61

apppendix references image references bibliography

62-63 64-65 66-69 70-73 5

what is a trend? In society, especially the fashion industry, there is a constant need for change, that is driven by the desire to replace items and experiences with new ones. One outcome of this desire, is trends. “A trend refers to a general direction or movement” (Stone, 2014). Within the fashion industry, a trend can be almost anything, a colour, a silhouette, a texture. It also has to be noted that trends are “not limited to apparel, accessories, and cosmetics; they can be found in various other consumer products, including home décor, furniture, automobiles, and electronics” (Kim, et al., 2011).

life of a trend? According to Henrik Vejlgaard and his DiamondShaped Trend Model (Raymond, 2010), fashion trends originate from the trend drivers, which could be a discovery, an invention, world events, political, economic, societal and cultural change or an overall shift in attitude. These trend drivers then inspire the trend setters to visualise and manifest the feeling of change into a product, be it art, fashion or products themselves. They are capturing the zeitgeist of the moment and reflecting it in the product created. These products then become the influence that drive the change and trend to grow, reaching the other levels of the trend’s life. This theory runs hand in hand with many other trend theories, especially Everett Rogers’ diffusion-of-innovation theory which similarly suggests that trends start with a small group of ‘innovators’, who spread the idea through the various stages until it fades off and is replaced by another. Historically trends have always been looked at with the ‘trickle-down’ outlook, whereby the at the beginning of the trend’s life it is picked up at the couture and high fashion level and then works its way down though the market levels to be sold in high street stores. However, on the other hand trends can also move in the other direction and ‘bubble-up’. This is where they “start on the street with street fashion and cultural subgroups and bubble up through the fashion hierarchy to be reinterpreted by designers on the catwalks” (Posner, 2015, p. 93). Trends also follow the trickle-across theory, which suggests that trends are available at all levels of the market simultaneously. Even though many trends still follow the trickle-down, bubble-up and trickle-across theories, it is now even more difficult to dictate which way trends develop. Holland & Jones stated that “democratized fashion and online media mean that a trend can start at the mid-market and spread outwards to the top and bottom ends, or go direct from a subculture to a luxury brand without ever hitting the mainstream” (Holland & Jones, 2017, p. 65). This is referred by them as the ‘new ecosystem’.

Henrik Vejlgaard’s Diamond-Shaped Model (Raymond, 2010) 9

trend forecasting Fashion trends are incredibly important to fashion business because the fashion industry is driven by change and the success of products rely heavily on the stimulus of consumer’s longing to interchange the old for the new. Fashion trends have a significant impact on the fashion industry because if organisations didn’t plan their ranges in terms of the trends of the time, then they may lose profits because of it. This is where trend forecasting comes in. Trend forecasting can be defined as “the process of anticipating future developments by watching for signals of change in current situations and events and applying the forecasting frameworks to predict possible outcomes” (Brannon, 2010, p. 404). Trend forecasting exists to aid brands and retailers in what products they should design and sell, it helps by minimising risk and helping to prevent wasted effort and expenditure. It’s also a way to stay ahead of the target consumer; understanding them so that the brands can offer them the products they not only want but need at that time. Trend forecasting does not provide all the answers, but it enables organisations to anticipate the future and make informed decisions. The ability to spot trends is now necessary at every level of fashion and lifestyle businesses, “from sourcing, sales and operations to buying and merchandising, design and marketing” (Holland & Jones, 2017). With trends timing is everything, brands need to interpret trends at the perfect time for the products to be successful. The timing is vital in terms of the brand achieving the marketing mix and gaining a profit. Marketing and trend forecasting interlink at many points, this is important because it is key for marketers to know what is coming in, so they can anticipate how to market the products successfully to the consumers. In terms of the retail, trend forecasting is key to its success. Retailers need knowledge of the market, how it is evolving and shifting, in order to understand what their competitors are doing. Retailers rely on trend forecasting to be able to understand the consumers they are dealing with better. They are the main point of contact for the consumers and the brand, so if they have a clear image of the consumer they can improve their customer service and increase sales. According to Kim & Fiore & Kim, “for apparel retailers, knowing what customers will want to wear next season is much more than just helpful information—it is requisite for success. When apparel retailers recognize fashion trends and develop their merchandise on the basis of that information, they increase the probability that consumers will accept merchandise when it arrives in stores” (Kim, et al., 2011, p. 1).

the role of the media The media, especially social media, plays an important role in trend forecasting and the life of a trend. When a trend first appears the media often picks it up. This is particularly true with trends that bubble up from the streets and on social media. Often the trends that get the most recognition from the media are fads, which are â&#x20AC;&#x153;niche looks or products with short lifespanâ&#x20AC;? (Holland & Jones, 2017, p. 54). Social media does have a determining effect on the lifespan of a trend because it has to be said that in recent years, bloggers and social influencers have had immense power on the speed of a trend and the rate of adoption into the masses, as if consumers see their favourite bloggers wearing a trend, then they will be much more likely to adopt the trend quicker than if they were to be exposed to that trend through someone else.

80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S EXCESS trend alert:

Take Me Back To The 80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 16

eighties excess The 80’s Excess trend is all about the revival of the 80’s, with the bold use of colour and silhouette that is familiar to that era. In recent years there has been an increase in political and social awareness in both the UK and US with feminism taking a surge forward into the media’s light once again. This is one reason why designers have taken to the 80’s ‘power dressing’ style. According to Fogg, the 80’s were “all about power dressing, bold colours, prints and most importantly making statements” (Fogg, 2009). With the strong shoulders and powerful colours, it is inviting women to take the power in what they wear and not be afraid to stand out.

timeline of the trend Previously the 80’s trend has been seen in a more varied and sporadic way, with elements of the trend being taken and put into looks with a subtler hand. The 80’s fashion style had taken a backseat since the 80’s, as it became too maximalist when the minimalist mega-trend arose in the late 90’s. The 80’s trend took a step forward in 2014 with more structure entering the A/W14 catwalks, in shoulders and silhouettes; however, there was still a strong focus on the 60’s and 70’s. In 2015 there was the introduction of a more maximalist trend, and designers were using more pattern and larger colour again. The glamour seen in the 80’s trend came back but many designers took inspiration from late 70’s with sleeker silhouettes “1970s metallic” (Vogue Paris, 2014). At the end of 2015 the focus on the large shoulder arose at the AW15 shows and as it transferred into SS16 when was adapted to big sleeves and bare shoulders. Late 2016 saw the resurgence of the 80’s and “Power dressing was back, but the lens was predominantly focussed on eveningwear” (Almassi, 2017). In early 2017 there was a surge in 80’s inspired items and the idea of power dressing came back in full force in both evening and day-to-day dressing. This may be because of the political landscape at the time as Donald Trump was newly elected as president of the USA and there was a feminist uprising as a result of this. Women wanted power and so the ideals of the 80’s, when women first broke the glass ceiling, came out in front. From then on, the 80’s trend has become a large trend that impacts other trends with its maximalist take on colour, shape and pattern.

2017

2015 2014

2016

2018

VERSACE The trend has been showcased through many designers for S/S, in particular with Versace, Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant and Off White. Each taking different elements of the 80’s and bringing it to 2018. Versace’s S/S show was the stand out moment of the season, with Donatella Versace’s homage to her brother Gianni Versace who died 20 years prior. “She resurrected his most iconic prints and pieces, taking the ’80s emblems and making them the most-wanted motifs of a new era” (Net-APorter, 2018). The tribute show brought back the original supermodels of the time Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni Sarkozy and Helena Christensen, which pushes the 80’s trend forward into the media’s attention.

SAINT LAURENT Saint Laurent provided a show with “high-octane Eighties glamour” (McCarthy, 2017) with big shoulders and short skirts, the 80’s influence was easily recognisable.

ISABEL MARANT

Isabel Marant provided a show with notes of 80’s athleisure and glam aiding the “cool-girl Parisian chic” style Marant is recognised for (Net-A-Porter, 2018).

“A sense of feel-good Eighties nostalgia ruled the Milan and Paris shows. This was the season when the original Supermodels broke the

internet, stonewashed denim and pouf hemlines made a comeback

and Cindy Crawford’s daughter,

Kaia Gerber, emerged as fashion’s biggest new catwalk star”

(Elle, 2017)

It can be said that the 80’s Excess trend originates from the catwalks, designers have been taking inspiration from the 80’s long before S/S18. This shows us that the trend follows the trickle-down theory, as designers have been using aspects of the 80’s for years and they are only recently entering the high street. However, the trend has also reached consumers through celebrity influencers such as the Hadid sisters and Kaia Gerber, the daughter of Cindy Crawford, who fronted Versace’s S/S18 show. The Hadid sisters often use the 80’s oversized, powerful styles in their outfits. They are bringing a youthful edge into the 80’s trend which can sometimes be seen as tired due to the fact that it has been around for so long. This influence has meant that the trend not only trickles down from the runways but has also trickled across and bubbled up from the aspirational nature of celebrities and their followers.

Another driver of the trend is the popularity of 80’s set TV shows such as Stranger Things, GLOW and Black Mirror. Stranger Things, the “nostalgia-heavy supernatural series” (Jackson, 2017), has gained both critical and commercial success with 18 Emmy Nominations for the first season and “361,000 viewers watching the entire second season of Stranger Things 2 within the first day it was available and within the first three days, the first episode averaged 15.8 million U.S. viewers” (Perez, 2017). The popularity of the show seemed to invite collaborations across many industries, in particular fashion with Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2018 women’s show featuring a Stranger Things T-shirt, while Harper’s Bazaar enlisted the child stars of the show for a fashion shoot featured in its September issue (Doig, 2017).

A/W 2018 fashion week street style Since arriving in full force on the S/S18 runway, the fashion forward influencers and icons have taken the trend up in the clothes they wear. They could be seen wearing the 80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s excess trends during the A/W18 fashion weeks.

80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S IN THE HIGH STREET 36

in-store shop safari Primary research was conducted through a shop safari in Nottingham City Centre, this concluded that the majority of main high street shops stock the 80’s trend either in key outfits or smaller aspects like accessories. It is interesting to note that the 80’s Excess trend is wide and hence it can be applied to any area of an outfit from the clothes to the accessories to the shoes. This is why it is harder to track in terms of the high street stores that stock it, as in many cases elements of the trend have been taken and minimised for the commercial market. This allows the trend to be taken up by a wider range of consumers and makes the maximalist style trend more wearable for every-day. The shop safari concluded that the 80’s Excess trend has been picked up by many high street retailers for Spring and Summer 2018. Quiz and River Island seemed to feature the most animal print clothing, primarily leopard print, whilst Zara and Urban Outfitters and specialised in the sequin and metallic aspect of the trend. River Island also seemed to feature the most tailoring and ‘power suits’, which could be due to their consumer wanting work attire and more classic style clothing than other more casual retailers such as Urban Outfitters which stock more day-to-day clothing. Topshop, on the other hand, stood out as the key store as it offered many aspects of the trend with animal print, metallic and sequinned clothing as well as 80’s style accessories such as earrings, bags and shoes. This is most likely due to Topshop’s target consumer being more fashion conscious and daring, they are more likely to follow bolder trends like the 80’s Excess trend. This means that Topshop can vary their looks and create collections that are more in line with current fashion trends. This is supported by the interviews completed with shoppers in high street retailers. In Topshop a customer, who seemed to already be wearing aspects of the 80’s Excess trend, she said that personally she likes the large shoulders and that when shopping in Topshop could see that the focus was on glitter and the 80’s party feel rather than the denim which had come back a few years prior (Appendix X). On the other hand, less fashion forward brands such as Quiz have taken the popular element of the trend which is animal print and can be seen using that in their collections as their consumers like to look fashionable but don’t want to take risks.

online shop safari Online brands have also been seen adapting the 80’s Excess trend, in particular ASOS. ASOS is a very bold and daring brand, who’s customers want to be wearing the latest trends. On their website many items adopting the trend can be seen with lots of animal print and sequinned products. Through this research it was found that ASOS had a wider range of products within the trend, with many large ‘power shoulders’ and brightly coloured products, which were not found at many of the other in store retailers. This may be because ASOS stocks a bigger number of products, not only their own label but many other brands too and so consumers have a wider choice of products from really fashion forward to basic products. ASOS were also seen to have the most 80’s Excess eveningwear and so when completing the editorial shoot this is where the majority of items were found. Overall it has to be said that even though the 80’s Excess trend is big on the catwalk, it hasn’t been transferred onto the high street as much. One reason for this could be that the trend is hard to commercialise and adapt for the masses as it is not to everyone’s taste. It is also a trend that may require lots of fabric to recreate and so retailers may be staying away to cut costs. Instead of taking the 80’s Excess trend so literally, retailers are taking elements such as sequins or animal print and working with that as it is more accessible to their consumers.

in-store interviews

Q. Have you noticed that there is an 80s glam trend running through the highstreet and runway recently?

shopper in Topshop already wearing a bold power suit from the 80’s trend

Absolutely, I think sequins and anything glittery are big this season and I am seeing more people wear statement pieces like bold shoulders. Q. Would you say what you are wearing today is inspired by the 80s Trend/ Fashion? Yes, I love dressing to look powerful and the 80s power suits and statement shoulders are becoming a staple in my wardrobe. Q. What does the 80s trend mean to you and your style, if anything? I like the vintage feel to the style and how you can dress as if you are living in a different decade and yet can still give it a modern twist that works. Q. Would you say the 80s trend is sustainable/will it last? I think that the 80s trend will last for a few more seasons before fading out. I do think that it will come back in the future and different aspects will be more popular but I definitely don’t think that 80s inspiration will be gone from fashion completely.

Yes, I think the 80s was massive about 3 years ago with a focus on denim but now it has come back around it has changed. There is more of a focus on glitter and an 80s party feel rather than denim. Q. Would you say your style is inspired by the 80s Trend/Fashion? A little bit. I like the big denim jackets and shoulder pads and I liked the style more when I was younger. Q. What does the 80s trend mean to you and your style, if anything? Reminds me about my mum and what she told me she used to wear. Q. Would you say the 80s trend is sustainable/will it last? I think it will keep coming back around in circles and adapt in different ways, like this time shoulder pads are back but they don’t look as formal. I think that the original 80s style will be constantly chopped and changed to make it current.

Appendix 6

Appendix 7

shopper in the changing rooms of River Island - trying on 80’s style jumpsuit

Q. Have you noticed that there is an 80s glam trend running through the highstreet and runway recently?

STYLING SHOOT AND EDITORIAL

PARTY MOOD

N A B R U

EXPRESS

IVE

NEON LIGHTS

“CLUB SCENE” 47

concept

After an in-depth analysis of the trend, it became apparent that within the trend eveningwear was the sector that it was being applied to the most. Because of this it was decided that the editorial will be based on night-out and evening wear. We wanted to reflect the 80’s party theme by creating two fun and confident women who wanted to have a good night out together. We wanted to convey a grungy party feel, like the two women were stood outside the club after their night out. We decided to use a bike shed in the city centre at night, as it was grungy and atmospheric. It allowed us to interact with the bike rails and pipes that run through the shed. The urban atmosphere allowed for strong shadows and lots of depth in the images while not overpowering the clothing, which were the key feature of the editorial. We used coloured acetate over flashlights to create a fun and playful mood by having the coloured light cover the models. The outfits chosen were key to the end result. We wanted bright and impactful clothing that reflected the trend in an obvious way. As a result, we chose two sequined dresses with shoulder details as the first two outfits; then an animal print theme for the next, with a metallic skirt and leopard print blazer for one outfit and a leopard print shirt with a bright green blazer for the other. In the editing stage, noise was added to the images to make them look grainy and old. The intention was to give the effect of an old 80’s photograph. There is a mix of black and white and colour images to add depth and interest to the editorial. As well as this, graphic lines were added to give a ‘pop art’ feel while adding some interest to the editorial. The name of the editorial is ‘Club Kids’ because it relates to the club kids of the 80’s while being a relatable subject for the young readers who enjoy going out clubbing.

the magazine

pen portrait Ellie 25 Lives in New York Interior Design Assistant Loves her job and is very career driven Single Fashion concious Loves listening to music and reading fashion magazines Goes out every Saturday with her friends and buys a new outfit every time Shops at ASOS and Topshop

The publication the editorial will be in is Nylon Magazine. Nylon is an American based magazine that targets both males and females between the ages of 18-35 who are educated, single and employed. Nylon was chosen for this editorial due it its playful approach to editorials and youthful audience. An interesting note is that the target Nylon readership were not born until after the 1980â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and so have fresh eyes on the style as a trend. This is refreshing as older readers may have bad perceptions of 80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion having lived through the time and so this perception could impact the way they view the trend. Because of the young readership the editorial needs to be vibrant and contemporary.

B L U C KI DS The new night out takes it back to the 80’s with the high-octane glamour of sparkles, shoulders and a lot of animal print. All you need to bring is the stamina to dance till dawn. 52

Blazer: ASOS - £52 Shirt: Zara - £29 Earrings: Topshop - £10

LEFT Dress: ASOS - £65 Earrings: Boohoo - £4

The 80’s are back and better than before. The key SS18 trend was seen all over the runways with the likes of Versace and Saint Laurent leading the way for the rest of us. This time around the 80’s are taking on the night with eveningwear being the main focus from the trend. That means sequins and glamour are back and here to help you shine on the dancefloor. The 80’s were all about standing up and standing out. Power dressing was the go to style and it’s back; become the boss we know you are. A coloured blazer is this season’s hot ticket item, it can be dressed down for the day, dressed up for work and taken to the max for the night. Throw in a little animal print with a shirt or accessory and you are good to go.

BELOW Shirt: Zara - £29 Earrings: Boohoo - £4 Bralette - Primark - £5 Animal Print Blazer : ASOS - £40

LEFT Bralette: Primark - £5 Skirt: ASOS - £30 Animal Print Blazer: ASOS -£40 Silver Shoes: ASOS - £30

ABOVE Silver Sequin Dress: ASOS - £75 Pink Sequin Dress ASOS - £65 Silver Circle Earrings: Topshop - £10

BELOW Silver Sequin Dress: ASOS - £75 Silver Circle Earrings: Topshop - £10

RIGHT Bralette: Primark - £5 Skirt: ASOS - £30 Animal Print Blazer: ASOS -£40 Animal Print Shirt: Zara -£29

conclusion

Overall the 80’s trend has a strong focus on eveningwear rather than day-today dressing, this is most likely due to the bold nature of the style. This meant it was difficult to capture people wearing the trend in the streets, instead the trend could be seen through the street style at fashion weeks as the people seen wearing the trend are more confident with what they wear. However, the 80’s excess trend is growing and doesn’t seem to be slowing down just yet. It was seen as one of the major trends for A/W 18 and had an even stronger focus on animal print. The trend will continue for a couple more seasons as there are aspects of the 80’s which have yet to be explored and played with by designers and consumers alike. Trend forecasting will also continue to grow in importance as consumers will want even more choice and change within the industry and so retailers will need to bring out even more ranges. On the other hand, there is a macro trend of conscious consumerism whereby consumers are more aware of the number of products they are purchasing and hence more active about not purchasing clothing they will not get use out of. This would mean that retailers will be wanting to bring out less products to appease this trend. However, retailers are now turning to more sustainable fabrics and ethical/transparent practice, while producing the number of products with the fast turnaround to appease the consumers conscious nature while still appealing to consumers who want fast fashion.

appendix

Consent Forms for interviews and images

Survey Results. 47 Responses Interview transcripts 1.

9. 6.

12.

15.

7. 3.

10.

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16.

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11.

references Almassi, H., 2017. Autumn/Winter 2016 Trends: 9 Key Looks You Need to Know. [Online] Available at: http://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/autumn-winter-2016-fashion-trends/slide3 [Accessed 16 May 2018].

Perez, S., 2017. Over 15 Million watched the ‘Stranger Things 2’ premiere by its third day on Netflix. [Online] Available at: https://techcrunch.com/2017/11/03/over-15-million-watched-the-stranger-things-2-premiere-byits-third-day-on-netflix/ [Accessed 16 May 2018]. Posner, H., 2015. Marketing Fashion: Strategy, Branding and Promotion. 2nd Edition ed. London: Laurence King Publishing .

Borrelli-Persson, L., 2018. Greed Isn’t Good, So Why Is the ’80s Look Being Revived in Fashion?. [Online] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/eighties-revival-on-the-runway [Accessed 16 May 2018].

Raymond, M., 2010. The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. London: Laurence King .

Brannon, E. L., 2010. Fashion Forecasting. 3rd Edition ed. New York: Bloomsbury. Doig, S., 2017. Strange but true: why 80s nostalgia is set to rule your wardrobe. [Online] Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/stranger-things-season-2-style/ [Accessed 16 May 2018].

Vogue Paris, 2014. Top 20 trends for Spring/Summer 2015. [Online] Available at: https://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-springsummer-2015/15479#tendances-mode-printemps-ete-2015-disco-seventies_image8 [Accessed 16 May 2018].

Stone, E., 2014. The Dynamics of Fashion. 4th Edition ed. New York: Bloomsbury.

Elle, 2017. 7 Fashion Trends That Will Be Big In 2018. [Online] Available at: https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/trends/longform/a40085/fashion-trends-2018/ [Accessed 14 May 2018]. Fogg, M., 2009. 1980’s Fashion Print: A Sourcebook. London: Bratsford. Holland, G. & Jones, R., 2017. Fashion Trend Forecasting. London: Laurence King Publishing . Jackson, J., 2017. Stranger Things shows just how much Netflix has transformed TV. [Online] Available at: https://www.newstatesman.com/culture/observations/2017/10/stranger-things-shows-just-howmuch-netflix-has-transformed-tv [Accessed 16 May 2018]. Kim, E., Fiore, A. M. & Kim, H., 2011. Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting. 1st ed. Oxford: Berg Publishers. McCarthy, E., 2017. Saint Laurent showcases high-octane Eighties glamour alongside luxe boho smocks on a runway beneath the glittering Eiffel Tower. [Online] Available at: https://www.standard.co.uk/fashion/news/saint-laurent-showcases-highoctane-eightiesglamour-alongside-luxe-boho-smocks-on-a-runway-beneath-a3644771.html [Accessed 14 May 2018]. Net-A-Porter, 2018. The Designer Interview: Isabel Marant. [Online] Available at: https://www.net-a-porter.com/gb/en/porter/article-0fcb3beeaf4a7bf2/fashion/art-of-style/IsabelMarant-interview [Accessed 14 May 2018]. Net-A-Porter, 2018. The Moment of The Season. [Online] Available at: https://www.net-a-porter.com/gb/en/porter/article-b4cdcb12d1cee240/fashion/fashion-memo/ versace-supermodel-runway [Accessed 14 May 2018].

image references

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TrendMap Report N0731532 Poppy West