You Can Go Home Again

Not all memories happen on lanes. This lobster pier isn’t near the water or on the water —it’s in the water!

BY COLIN W. SARGENT

Remember the late 1960s? To mark the successful finish of Camp Wyanoke’s annual whitewater canoe trip, on the way home our minibus pulled up to the coolest summer attraction ever. I was eleven. It was on a secret creek, so I knew even then that I’d never find it again.

Last night I dined at Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier in Kittery Point. This time with my usual date.

We descend the ramp to the long, low lobster pound (a term coined in Maine that now includes dining) looking exactly as I’ve remembered it: tables painted with thick, glossy coats of red, black, green, yellow, and gray below post-and-beam rafters hung with fishing nets.

When I place my order in the hut with the lurid green lobster tanks inside, the couple ahead of me

Dream Weaver

Some miracles take a while to reach the ideal temperature. “This place has been in my family since 1902,” Ron Spinney says. “My great-uncle, Herb Witham, a lobsterman, built the pier so more lobster boats could get oil and gas from him and bring their lobster catches here. The floats were on oil drums back then.”

Herb’s son-in-law, George Spinney, added picnic tables when he returned from the

Small boats and kayaks are conversationally close to our table.

orders a 2.5-pound hard-shell. Something I’d never do. When they leave to go to their table, I watch the lobster wrangler philosophically walk to the tank on the far right and pull out a monster the size of my Scottish terrier.

Hey, this is the 21st century. Who am I to judge?

Since it’s BYOB, we’ve brought some cold white wine to the green table at the water’s war—a game-changing modernization. Ron, Spinney’s son, caught lobsters to help out. “I didn’t have a lobster boat. I had a skiff.

“I can’t remember what I was doing in 1965, but in 1967 I was in Massachusetts studying electronics in technical college. I helped build the high level bridge in Portsmouth in 1971. But I’ve loved working here over the years. I’ve shucked oysters, steamed lobsters, you name it. Looking back at all that time—Jeez! Aw, there’ve been so many people here. They’re so great—they remember my name. Who’s my favorite visitor? My wife, Jean, is my favorite celebrity to visit this place. She worked with me for decades here. She was on the Phantom Gourmet show four times. She died in 2008.” edge and are glad we’ve done so. Small boats and kayaks, conversationally close to our table, wave as they pass by. We start out with steamers, freshly dug and piping hot. They come with butter and a clam-broth bath, the perfect ritual experience. Our lobster roll is mayonnaise-based with plenty of meat made distinctive with a sprinkle of celery salt and served with ridged chips. Since the food is presented when it’s ready, our pound-and-a-quarter lobster arrives next, stunningly fresh and sweet. The nostalgic onion rings and fries come later, hot from the fryer. Other side dishes include corn, coleslaw, and potato salad. In the 1960s style, you can also purchase additional varieties of chips. Dessert is key lime pie, not too sweet or sour, a citrusy exclamation point to the buttery dinner.

The couple took over Herb Witham’s Lobster Pier “in 1984.” That’s when they gave it the “new” name.

Is it fair to say your lobster pound never changes? It seems like the lobster pound at the end of the universe.

Yes and no. It hasn’t changed too much. Parts of the older building are here, yes, and a huge lobster tank from way back. I have the business listed on the market this summer, you know.

Why on earth? Seems like a nice retirement job to me. You’re where everyone dreams of being. Or is it hard to be on people’s bucket list when you’re holding the bucket.

I’m 76. I live on a nearby island. I want to do more boating.

The question is, how much more boating?

Last year I got a new 29-foot Sea Ray. All last summer I got to use it for two hours.

Then I hear a rhythmic banging cracking hammering. Louder and louder! Must be the twoand-a-half pounder.

This return through time is so magical I look at the other tables to see if Bobby Orr has come in again.

Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier is for sale for $3M. n

Select Area Restaurants

Brickyard Hollow Brewing Company offers unique craft pizza delivery, pickup, and dine-in from our new waterfront location at 9 Commercial Street in Portland. Featuring a diverse menu and our own craft beer, we were established by Mainers with a passion for community involvement and great experiences. Visit us in Portland, Freeport, or at our original Yarmouth brewpub. brickyardhollow.com

Anthony’s Italian Kitchen 30 years of Old World recipes. Best meatballs in town. Mile-high lasagnas, fresh-filled cannoli pastries, 54 sandwiches, pizza. A timeless great family spot. Beer and wine. Free parking. 151 Middle St., Portland, AnthonysItalianKitchen.com, 774-8668.

J’s Oyster Premier seafood destination & locals’ favorite w/indoor & outdoor waterfront seating on a scenic Portland pier. Since 1977, classic favorites, friendly service. Named by Coastal Living one of “America’s Best Seafood Dives 2016.” 722-4828.

Bandaloop has moved into a restored 1700s barn on Route 1 in Arundel. Since 2004 we have offered locally sourced, globally inspired, organic cuisine. Our new home has plenty of space, parking, outdoor seating, takeout, and an event space in the loft. We continue to offer something for every palate—from vegans to carnivores and everything in between. bandalooprestaurant.com

The Corner Room features bright, wide-open space with towering ceilings complemented by handcrafted woodwork. Patrons can expect a warm, comfortable atmosphere, marked by the rich aromas of house-made pastas, pizzas, antipasti and artisanal breads. Come and enjoy the taste of Venice in the heart of Portland, ME! 879-4747, 110 Exchange Street. Visit thecornerroomkitchenandbar.com for more information.

Portland Lobster Company “Maine’s Best Lobster Roll,” lobster dinners, steamers, fried claims, chowder. Enjoy live music daily w/ ice-cold local beer or fine wine on our deck overlooking gorgeous Portland Harbor. 180 Commercial St., 775-2112, portlandlobstercompany.com.

Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511, https:// www.restaurantji.com/me/portland/brunosrestaurant-and-tavern-/

Maria’s Ristorante Portland’s original classic Italian restaurant. Greg & Tony Napolitano prepare classics: Zuppa di Pesce, Eggplant Parmigiana, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato & Maine’s

Best Meatballs. See our own sauce in local stores. $11.95-$22.95. Open at 5 Wed.-Sat. Catering always avail. 1335 Congress Street 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com.

Flatbread Company Portland Tucked between two wharves with picturesque waterfront views. Family-friendly restaurant w/ signature pizzas, weekly carne & veggie specials. Made w/ local ingredients, baked in wood-fired, clay ovens. Everything’s homemade, organic, and nitrate-free. 24 local drafts & cocktails showcase all-local breweries & distilleries. 72 Commercial St., 772-8777, flatbreadcompany.com.