When Coffee By Design sources coffee, we don’t just buy beans. We look for farmers dedicated to exceptional quality. When we tasted samples from Robiero Sarmiento’s farm in Colombia, we believed we found something special. The result? A single origin coffee that scored 92 points with Coffee Review. We look forward to Robiero’s upcoming harvest and a long term friendship creating stronger communities and outstanding coffees. Visit
“Death to the Dracu grandson!” In terror, Iordana Ceausescu of Romania disappeared in secret to Old Orchard Beach with her son while the world searched for them. She lived a buried life Drawn from 800 hours of unique interviews with Iordana. Colin W. Sargent’s Red Hands “an astounding account of the Romanian revolution in the voice of Ceausescu’s daughter-in-law.”
–Martin Goodman in the Morning Star
“Brilliant. If the novel is Macbeth then it is Romeo and Juliet too, for the pounding heart of the book is a great love story that never fails to move. A tale from last century and a warning for this one, Red Hands is a novel of rare power that teaches us much about Romania and even more about ourselves.”
–D. D. Johnston
Situated on stunning Lake Kezar in Lovell, Maine, Quisisana Resort is equal parts summer camp, music festival and culinary paradise. Your stay will be lled with exquisite meals, the scent of pine, call of loons, and music from Bach to Broadway.
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In New York City, 12,000 hastily built curbside “streeteries” were rushed into place as part of the “brutal economics of COVID-19,” according to curbed.com. e year 2021 was Portland ’s pandemic peak, with 33 streetside dining structures, says Zachary Lenhert, Licensing and Housing Safety Manager for the City of Portland. Many of our alfresco eateries were masterpieces of ingenuity. I drove through the Old Port to see them one more time before they disappeared. ey were here, now they’re gone, but not for good.
Maybe the real value of these curbside accommodations—which cynics call dilapidations— is as mirrors to who we were, or thought we were, in 2021 and 2022. ey were testimony to how creative we can be in an emergency, and this extended to our embellishing the names of our dyscurbia: parklets, shanties, pergolas, bait shacks, bubbles, igloos, dining shelters, and sheds. Um, some of these are what we used to call parking spots.
Hey, the Ei el Tower was a temporary exhibition for the 1889 World’s Fair before it became synonymous with Paris. Now it’s lit up every night just so we can marvel at its sparkles.
In City Hall, Lenhert had front-row tickets to the show. “We got a few noise complaints. We got complaints about establishments that had applied for a parklet, [for which] the city placed tra c blocks, then they never installed their parklet, leaving just a blocked-o parking space.” At the same time, “We got complaints from restaurants about not allowing them bigger parklets, or when we made them remove them, or that we didn’t allow covered structures, only umbrellas.” Other retailers lost parking spaces near their stores.
Were any on-street parklet licenses given to a non-restaurant at any time during the program in Portland?
“No.”
I believe restaurant patrons were drawn into nearby retail establishments like bookstores, jewelers, and clothiers because they lingered looking into the windows while dining (or at least waiting in line). A new pursuit—après-dining shopping.
Jessica Hanscombe, Director of Permitting and Inspections for the City of Portland, says permission to go over the curb and serve customers on the street where there was once parking “is a part of the restaurant license with us,” which seems to suggest that any other retail business desiring such a permit is unthinkable. “ at fee is a yearly fee of $3,000 for one space or $5,000 for two spaces. We also have outdoor dining on private property and outdoor dining on public property (sidewalks or parks). e fee for private property is a one-time fee of $125 and is also attached to their restaurant license.” And bookstores can have sidewalk tag sales for a one-time annual fee of just $125.
Sorry, Longfellow. ough every school child once knew the words to Evangeline and “ e Children’s Hour,” now they all know where the “foodiest city in New England” is. e parklets will be returning in April.
“Death to the Dracu grandson!”
In terror, Iordana Ceausescu of Romania disappeared in secret to Old Orchard Beach with her son while the world searched for them. She lived a buried life among us for fve years. Drawn from 800 hours of unique interviews with Iordana. Colin W. Sargent’s Red Hands—“an astounding account of the Romanian revolution in the voice of Ceausescu’s daughter-in-law.”
–Martin Goodman in the Morning Star
barbicanpress.com/book/red-hands/
Where Recycling Has Always Been In Style
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e Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) commemoration on one of the ‘Memorials to the Missing’ is for all those who do not have a grave that can be registered, marked, and maintained by them. is includes all those who died at sea, or in bodies of water such as Sebago Lake and whose bodies were not recovered. Whilst the location of their death may be known, neither Sub Lt Gill nor Sub Lt Knott has a formal grave and therefore they remain ‘missing’ [see “Secrets of the Deep,” November 2022].
ADOBESTOCK Letters
COLIN SARGENT notbedisturbed. aircra areonthebottomofthe havelakeatadepthof325feetandbothpilots accordingremainedentombedinthemsince,” toSub-LieutenantKnott’slistHallingintheGranthamMattersnewssite’s ofFamearchives.KnottattendedGranthamKing’sSchoolbefore ight histraininginBritainandCanadathatledto AlfredassignmentinMaine.“Fred”HagenofAeroArchaeolantogydisagrees.“Idon’tthink[Sub-LieutenKnott]wasstrappedin.”Onimpactor
e families of both men would have been contacted by the military authorities at the time of their deaths, so it is likely they were aware of the circumstances and that their bodies had not been recovered. During the preparation of the Lee-onSolent Memorial, the CWGC wrote to their next of kin as part of a process to nally verify details, but only the family of Sub Lt Knott responded.
is case was discussed by the US and UK authorities in the late 1990s when a local archaeological group reported that they believed they could pinpoint the location of the aircra wreckage in the lake. Because neither of the airmen had been found, it was assumed by the group that their remains might still be within the wreckage. e correspondence records that the US and UK authorities had agreed that wreckage of the aircra would remain undisturbed.
It is possible that both men were initially in their respective aircra , but as I’m sure you can appreciate, this is not a certainty because of the collision, the subsequent crash, and the long immersion in water. It is therefore doubtful whether any recovery of the wreckage then or today would result in the retrieval of their remains.
e UK Ministry of Defence and the CWGC still maintain the policy of nonrepatriation of casualties from the First
and Second World Wars. erefore, even if remains were discovered, they would be reburied with full military honours within a CWGC grave in the region.
We appreciate that our approach to non-disturbance and non-repatriation may be di erent to that followed by non-Commonwealth nations, but it has allowed us to ensure parity of treatment for all those who fought and died together during the First and Second World Wars, irrespective of their personal, family, or military circumstances.
Nicola Nash
Joint Casualty & Compassionate Centre Defence Services Armed Forces & Veteran Service Innsworth House, Imjin Barracks Gloucester, UK
Very nice issue [September 2022]! I am a very small business and I’ve been overwhelmed with sales for the past few months—a good thing, not complaining! Please keep me on the list for next year.
Linda Perry, Sheepscot Harbor Yarn, Damariscotta
[“Taking the Reins,” Summerguide 2022] came out so good! anks so much for including us.
Lydia Studley, Ever A er Mustang Rescue, Biddeford
I was disappointed to see the cover of your November 2022 issue with a photo from Gloucester, MA. with no credit to the International Dory Racing Committee.
Glenn Harrington, Phippsburg
I look forward to reading every issue and am so happy to be a part of your publication! You’ve made me want to visit Maine, and my family has been talking about planning a trip.
Jen Rose, Bee Cups, Dallas, TX
We’d love to hear from you! Send your letters, comments, or quips to editor@portlandmonthly.com or message us on Facebook.
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OK, Canada, that English gold coin from the 1400s found on the coast of Newfoundland this past summer is pretty and all, but Maine’s silver Viking penny dates back to the 11th centur y— assuming neither one’s a plant.
Anomalies at Pennington Mountain —it has an occult ring to it. But geologists say the billion-dollar mineral deposit on the lonely mountain near Presque Isle has revolutionary high-tech applications. “ Rare earth elements are important components in smartphones, as well as wind energy and battery components. Niobium is an essential element in steelmaking and jet engines. Zirconium is used in ceramics, as well as some superalloys,” according to usgs.gov.
Move over, potato clocks—make way for lobster batteries! Unlike the corrosive, flammable chemicals in conventional batteries that take hundreds of years to break down, the chitin found in lobsters’ (and other crustaceans’) exoskeletons can be synthesized into electrolytes for
non-flammable batteries that break down in soil in five months, the Guardian reports.
“ e basis for the mural is an 1895 Aubrey Beardsley cover illustration for the short-story collection Grey Roses [by Henry Harland],” says artist Pat Corrigan. “I added the dogs to it because of the disappointment locally when Maine Medical Center had to x that wall and cover the old Greyhound terminal sign e Valley neighborhood has Portland ’s only o cial dog park as well, so it seemed appropriate to keep the dogs in.”
Any relation to the poet? The Frost Garrison and House on Frost’s Hill gets this all the time. Whyyes,RobertFrost’s ancestralrootsherereachbackto1660.In fact, he often visited the homestead (23 Garrison Drive in Eliot), which stayed in the family until 1930, was entered into the National Register of Historic Places in 1971, and was up for auction recently. Somebody got it for a song.
’
SCÈNE
Im all in for the vibe of a winter beach town in Maine. Once again, crowds of us will zip into quilted black down parkas. (Well, that could be anywhere. A friend says these look like “pu y jacket liners,” not real jackets. Whatever.) It’s as though we’re mounting a theatrical production of Uncle Vanya, except the show is Suddenly, is Winter. Warm hearts and cinematic snow akes.
Maine has a “Gee, your hair smells terrific” moment.
tical numbered doors of the locked seaside bathhouses on Gooch’s Beach, trying each one to see if it’ll open. Whirling snow dri s across the wooden ramps. Will I ever meet her?
Ever wonder what the changing rooms of a seaside bathhouse look like inside? I’m not saying I’ve seen one. at would be breaking and entering. But FYI, they’re lined with golden knotty pine, a stalwart single bench seat in an endless conversation with an empty wrought-iron towel hook. A lonely mirror re ects into in nity.
Who says Maine wasn’t directed by Fellini? In one of the winter movies in my mind, I’m a restless 14-year-old walking past 95 iden-
Mise-en-scène is “the stage design and arrangement of actors in scenes for a theater or lm production, both in visual arts through storyboarding, visual theme, and cinematography, and in narrative storytelling through direction.” Mise en abyme is the idea of a story within a story, doorways within doorways, or in nite recursion of re ected images.
e play within a play or e Lara Poems
in Dr. Zhivago. Wild poet Kendall Merriam of Richmond wrote his own singular version of e Lara Poems. In a Maine winter, maybe we’re all nally nding the time to write e Lara Poems
SITTING ON A BENCH on the shore of Stonington Harbor, recharging after a busy week of working and blending tea, is one of my happy places, even in the drizzle of rain. As I sip my tea, I can hear the engines of the lobster boats coming in from haul before I see them. Above, seagulls squawk and circle, waiting to steal bait from the boats.
Today the sea is choppy from the wind of the approaching storm, but the islands are still within sight through the fog straight ahead. The spray of the sea water is hitting the docks, rising with the swells and retracting.
The town is quiet behind and beside me, with only the locals remaining. Only a handful of the businesses are open this time of year, leaving the town feeling sleepy. Mostly local fisherman in their trucks are on the roads today.
I breathe in the fresh air and relax, knowing this is the island I call home. This is the community that supported Tempest in a Teapot from the beginning. They embraced and supported the original blends and gave us the roots for the business that we have today.
—Rebecca
Emerson, Co-Owner & Co-President Tempest in a TeapotRebecca’s favorite hot tea this time of year is Ginger Fusion. It warms to the bones with ginger and turmeric, with a bit of a spicy kick from peppercorns. She likes it hot with a little Maine honey or Maine maple syrup added for sweetener.
—Tammy Smith, Co-Owner & Co-President Tempest in a Teapot
eflecting our tendency in Maine to be attracted to the contrary, one of the most popular drinks in winter is the aspirational Sombrero, which is one part coffee brandy (Allen's, naturally), milk, and ice cubes.ses of sandwich shops glowing with neon “OPEN” signs.
“
One of the beauties of winter in Maine is that we’re not slaves to chain restaurants,” says Michael at VIP Tires & Service in Arundel. “I like Becky’s Diner Dysart’s Restaurant & Truck Stop [outside Bangor] has the greatest hash in the world.” ere’s nothing quite like a real Maine diner.
“My favorite is Bay Haven Lobster Pound in Cornish,” his co-worker Ellen says from the other side of the counter. at’s not a greasy spoon!” Mike says.
Michael Goodwin
IN WINTER, on Mount Desert Island, the summer tourist meccas Echo Lake and Long Pond become snowy wonderlands. Locals build icefishing huts ranging from rudimentary to lavish, careen across them on snowmobiles, and unleash their dogs to bound around in disbelieving glee. My three sisters and I are avid hikers, but icy peaks are perilous. These flat expanses allow us time together, fresh air and exercise, and the kind of breathtaking views no other time of year affords.
Coffee Matter and Mother’s Kitchen, a combo coffee bar/snack shop in Town Hill, is my fave takeout on MDI, open for breakfast and lunch. The coffee is first-rate; the soups and sandwiches are delicious and organic. I’m partial to the Red Rock Corner: roasted eggplant, tomato jam, goat cheese, greens, and vinaigrette on focaccia. Plus homemade shortbread toffee bars!
—Christina Baker Kline
IF SOMEBODY asks you to do some home improvement work on the outside of your family cottage, and you have to shovel three feet of drifted snow off the back porch to get to where the job is, and then your fingers freeze and can’t turn a screwdriver, quit and go back in the spring.
—Brian DalyEMBARK, A RESTAURANT in Brunswick, is only open through the winter and closes before Memorial Day. It’s owned and run by the same folks as the Dolphin Marina in Harpswell. I believe it was created specifically to give their summer staff winter jobs and as a nice place to eat for the locals.
—Sofia Voltin
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Interior corridor hotel with 72 keys, banquet facility, indoor pool, and fitness center. 7+ acres and high visibility on US Rt 1. Sold September 2022
Bath has a Winterfest every February. There’s a beautiful lantern parade down the main street, ice sculptures, a disc-golf tournament...a whole bunch of indoor and outdoor activities for everyone to celebrate the season.
—Heather Fear, Now You’re Cooking
The dating scene shrinks as the temperature drops. T here’s a restaurant here with a back billiard hall filled with regulars who’ve switched partners. We’ve all been married to each other at least once. Gives new meaning to the words “pool room.”
—Please Don’t Use My Name
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Seven Arctic explorers, one Snowy Owl—what could possibly go wrong?
It ’ s January in K’port, with the sidewalks rolled up and snow piled along the roadways
What an alternate-narrative movie this would make, with its “low-tide dolor”—a phrase of Robert Lowell ’s. Federal Jack’s would have to star as the second- oor, above-the-fray watering hole in such a lm. Its sparkling views of the river are worth the drive from anywhere.
Local knowledge guides us to arrive on a Monday night, with parking available right beside the entrance in both the front and back lots. Our car door pops open, and there it is: the wintry hush over the city that is stopped in time. We rush up the staircase, not pausing long enough to let the weather even touch us, and with a welcoming whoosh the double doors swing open and transport us into a vaulted room with impressive exposed beams. e smiling host beckons us to a spot right by the window with a dazzling view of the sleeping town. We take in the twinkles of Kennebunkport’s bridge, the old Lyric eatre where I once watched Dr. Zhivago, and the
river, background music for my eyes. I don’t want to be anywhere else right now.
Weather permitting, there’s panoramic outside seating from the second oor (lo y blonde beams, lots of glass and chrome), but the spacious indoor seats by the big windows put us right on top of the water like we’re on the prow of a boat. It may be icy cold outside, but we’re comfy and warm.
Rarely do I put “pub food” and “divine” in the same sentence, but that’s the case here. It’s “Some Kind of Wonderful,” like the mu-
sic thumping in the background.
We share tonight’s special, the FireRoasted Corn Chowder with herbs and cornbread ($11), a hot, zesty bowl that’s perfectly sweet and spiced. It “pairs well with Old umper” (since we’re on the spot where Shipyard Brewing Co. was born, the menu recommends a beer pairing for each dish), but because I’d discussed Irish co ee with a friend today, I want one desperately to keep the cozy warmth going.
It does the trick! We also order the extremely generous BSB Brown Sugar Bourbon and Cold Cider ($12), which leads us to order and share the Winter Salad: cranberries, pepitas, maple applecider vinaigrette dressing, bacon, and goat cheese ($15).
On to the Fish & Chips ($23.50) I’ve been craving. I tear into it, and it’s a home run, with hot, so , almost u y haddock.
e other main course we tack into is the dazzling Cajun Shrimp and Grits ($25): nine perfectly charred medium shrimp with a hint of citrus, embellished with thin strips of red peppers and green onions on a cloud of grits. Both dishes are so large we order takeout boxes.
Winter, bring it! n
Sophia Laukli started skiing when she was two and competed in her rst race at three. Now, at 22, the Yarmouth High School graduate has numerous World Cup races, an NCAA title (Individual Champion, Women’s 15K Freestyle) for the University of Utah, and the 2022 Winter Olympics under her belt.
How did you get hooked on cross-country skiing? Because my dad’s from we went there a ton, and I skied a lot in Norway growing up.
When did you start getting serious about it?
I did my junior year abroad at a ski school in land nine months of the year— it’s super fun!
What’s your training regimen like?
e summer’s when I do the most. I average 20 hours, and some weeks are closer to
30. I love really long 4–5 hour runs in the cool mountains. I dread sprint sessions or skiing on at terrain.
How and when did you fnd out you were going to the Olympics?
e Nordic skiing quali cations are di erent from any other sport. You have Olympic trials for running, etc., but our entire season is helping us qualify, so I kind of knew when I had solidi ed a spot.
good job hiding it.
What was it like to be in the Olympics?
It was honestly not that fun as an alternate. I only ended up racing on the very last day in the 30km, so I was there for three weeks in a cube in China, and it was freezing with terrible food.
What kinds of food were available?
ey had very authentic Chinese food, like octopus and fried mystery meats, which is not what you want to be eating before a race. ey also had boiled chicken and rice, so that’s what I ended up eating. We also had a lot of camping meals that the U.S. nutritionists brought.
What were COVID protocols like?
e country was completely shut down. ere wasn’t a single car on the road, and in the [Olympic] village there were hundreds of workers in hazmat suits keeping the place pristine. ey had spray bottles everywhere, spraying the air inside and spraying the outside air.
Did you meet many athletes from other teams?
You’d see other athletes, but with COVID you couldn’t really interact. You get pins for your country, so a really big thing is to trade pins with the other teams and see who can get the most pins.
How was your Olympic debut in the 30km
Though the experience wasn’t what any of us expected, we’re so proud she was representing us.
I thought [the race] was going to be canceled because the weather was atrocious. I wanted so badly to do well and prove myself, because my con dence was dampened every time they chose other people to race. It ended up going very well, but it was just a brutal race, because it was so windy and cold. I wore three layers on top and bottom, and four hats. It was so windy that you were skiing through snow dri s.
ere was a tiny little sign that marked the lap lane and the nish lane, and when I was coming up the hill, a massive gust of wind blew snow over the sign, and I hammered right by it and took the wrong lane. Two girls passed me, and there were a solid 15 girls on the verge of passing me—I barely held them o . After the race, we went to the closing ceremony, which was cool, because we didn’t go to
the opening ceremony.
ere were a lot of COVID-stressed people, so it was a Nordic team decision.
ere were three who had been to the Olympics before, but the other twelve of us who hadn’t were pretty upset that we weren’t allowed to go to the opening ceremony—that’s one of the most iconic parts!
Olympics 2026?
Oh yeah, that’ll be more fun in Italy.
Does your fuency in Norwegian and French come in handy while competing internationally?
It’s great to hear the Norwegians talking shit, because they don’t necessarily know that I know what they’re saying. I can hear them complaining, taking it for granted that the American won’t understand. n
There were hundreds of workers in hazmat suits…spraying the air inside and outside.
Photo by: Cait Bourgault
Sure, you could just throw a June wedding, the gold standard. Or take a cue from these couples.
BY COLIN W. SARGENT
Awedding party in two generations is coming in from a long beach walk after the ceremony. e parental units are out front. Ten feet behind, two young women 19 or 20 years old, maybe cousins, are tiptoeing along with slight blushes and submerged smiles. Each carries a white thermos that looks like an insulated stemless wine glass.
We can’t resist. “All right, you two. Before you pass, tell us what’s in your glass.” ey smile and slowly shake their heads. ey’re going to keep us guessing. A red blend, chablis, or Allen’s Co ee Brandy? e colder it gets, the more some of us toast the coast.
A balmy variation of this wedding ex-
perience is available with a June wedding, sure, but this is emphatically di erent. ese are not summer people, they’re winter people—at least now they are. e lucky among us are four-season people. We have warm hearts, we’re romantic, and we defy the cold.
alk about a li ticket. In Maine, a dreamy venue for a winter wedding is a downhill ski resort. e rooms are already here. e enormous granite replace pops and sput-
ters. ere’s entertainment for all ages, the beauty overload of the Appalachian Mountains, and there’s parking to the moon.
“Yeah, we do that!” says Judy Morton at Saddleback in Rangeley. “One I love is the bride and groom ride to the top of the mountain; then they ski down to the ceremony, so that’s always fun.” Not to mention awesome, because it’s a 2,000-foot drop. “If
it’s a small wedding we might close our upstairs pub” so it’s devoted to the event. " e one I’m thinking of was on an unbelievably bright sunny day, but that’s the vari-
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Winter White (continued from page 45)
able no matter where you are.”
e sta ’s gotten creative with the promotions. “Take your love to new heights at Saddleback.” Look for “vaulted ceilings, sweeping views up the mountain and to the lakes to the west, rough-hewn timbers and a large eldstone replace. It is also one of the largest indoor event facilities of its kind in Western Maine, featuring over 6,000 square feet of indoor space and a number of inspiring outdoor spaces to host your wedding or event.”
n Poland, the Wolf Cove Inn sets a panoramic standard for romance. Why winter in Maine rather than June? “It’s just more qui-
et and calm,” says innkeeper A.J. Gosselin. “We let the brides choose whether it’s an inside or outside ceremony. Sometimes the brides will wear a white fur shawl. We have views of Tripp Lake. I'm an indoor person. It’s much more serene. Maine in the summer is just full of tourists from out of state. You get the real experience with real Maine people in the winter.” ere’s a magic bay window here where everybody wants to be photographed. “Most people like to have the lake in the view. We have 550 feet of shoreline.”
e lake itself is a frosty guest.
As innkeeper, Gosselin doesn’t have time to shovel a big swath on the lake for skating, but “there’s an ice rink nearby in town where people go.” e tiebreaker? “We have an ultimate romance dinner expressly for the bride and groom— a four-course dinner.”
With life together as dessert. n
The Oyster Room offers an expansive dining room and bar with hardwood floors and views of Portland Harbor--the perfect waterfront venue for innmate weddings and rehearsal dinners.
Email: Events@BoonesFishHouse.com Call: 207-774-5725 Visit Us Online: www.BoonesFishHouse.com
photographer: @saysana
Cannabiz just may be the new ice shing. Surely the two “indoor” sports share a sense of probing the depths from within a sensory black box. What can we learn about trends? What’s on the other end of the line? en the little red ag goes up. You’ve caught a sh!
In Maine, the scarlet ag goes up once a month. at’s when the numbers for state retail cannabis sales are reeled in and released.
In Augusta, the Department of Administrative and Financial Services’ O ce of Can-
Who doesn’t feel a thrill when shiny new numbers surge up on our hook?
nabis Policy provides the shimmer and the clarity that are essential for understanding Adult Use Retail Sales.
For example, we now know that in November 2022, Maine cannabis industry revenues were $13,961,376. is is based on 228,963 sales transactions. at’s a good catch. Even better than last June. And Maine cannabis consumers bene tted, because it reduced the average price per gram (bud/ ower) during that month to $8.44.
Step back and consider 2022 through November. Total adultuse revenues were $143,619,196 for those 11 months, based on 2,230,549 transactions, with an average of $9.36 per gram (bud/ ower).
In November of 2021, our adult retail sales were less than $10M. e growth rate is strong, and more people are baiting their hooks. e OCP points out that the gures they release have not yet been audited. e stats are dripping wet, fresh out of the water. n
At the base of the Mt. Washington Auto Road, you’ll find the perfect winter destination for all ages and abilities.
Take a SnowCoach tour to the alpine zone for an unforgettable experience. Bring the family tubing and make life-long memories by the fire. Take a lesson with our friendly and knowledgeable ski school. Explore our cross-country ski and snowshoe trails, and check out the amazing winter gear in our Ski Shop. Charge your EV at our Base Lodge!
BY JAMES LI
I’ ve lived o -grid in a yearround island home in Maine for 20 years, but only recently did I discover a backcountry winter getaway in the Moosehead Lake region that’s as enticing to foodies as it is to hardcore outdoor enthusiasts. Four World War IIera lodges in the 100-Mile Wilderness o er
su ciently t skiers a stunning backwoods experience cross-country skiing from one lodge to the next for four days straight, overnighting in handsome historic camps while eating like a food critic.
Since three of the four camps are part of the well-seasoned Appalachian Mountain Club network, we used the AMC’s shuttle services for our vehicle and overnight gear. e AMC drove us from the endpoint of our trip, where we le our car, to drop us at the trailhead.
Never having experienced overnight backcountry skiing without carrying my own 40-pound pack, I was thrilled at the prospect of skiing light. We le our overnight gear, including evening libations, in a marked luggage shelter at the trailhead. Each day, an AMC sta person would magically transport our du el ahead, so all our gear would be waiting for us at the next lodge when we came out of the woods at day’s end. Each lodge kept track of when we were expected to complete the day’s trail, promising to nd us if we failed to show up before dark.
We spent the night before our shuttle van departed from Greenville in a local hotel, then breakfasted on hash and eggs with the locals at Auntie M’s. Bill, who drove the van, said the deer we kept spotting were attracted to the road because they liked eating the salted ice chunks that fell o the vehicles driving by. When we arrived at the drop-o point, we o oaded our gear and donned our skis and daypacks. Our overnight du el went into an open wooden shelter marked “To Gorman Chairback.”
Our rst day in the Maine winter woods began on a trail as wide as a logging road, giving Kim plenty of room to get acquaint-
ed with her skis. About the time she got the hang of the kick-and-glide, the trail narrowed and entered the forest. e snowpack was deep and little traveled, the daytime temperature sub-zero. Getting from one camp to the next would mean traversing about eight miles daily in hilly wilderness terrain.
Around sunset, we arrived at Gorman Chairback. e lodge chief, Brent, had already started a re in the cast-iron stove in our log-walled cabin, the oldest structure in the entire AMC network. e aptly named “Octagon” was spacious, rustic, book- lled, and warm. Once the propane lights were lit, we didn’t ever want to leave.
But hot showers, drinks, and dinner beckoned, and we found all three in the lodge. Dinner in these four lodges is a serious matter, served family style by courses. Huge platters of fresh salad were followed by fresh warm bread, Yorkshire pudding, sweet squash, asparagus, potatoes, and prime rib. Dessert was a lemon custard pastry. Before we were nished, Brent passed brown paper lunch bags and crayons around the tables, instructing us to write down our sandwich choices for tomorrow’s lunches from among
the meats, cheeses, vegetables, homemade bread, wraps, and dressings printed on the bags. e skier across from me said the last time he stayed here he “just circled them all.”
A er dinner, groups of skiers broke o to sit by the eldstone stove, read, talk, and visit the sauna. Several discovered the guitar and ukulele by the re, and an impromptu concert broke out. Eventually we wandered back to the Octagon and fell into a deep, restful sleep by 8 p.m.
The next few days were an idyllic if physically consuming break from our normal lives. We woke early, quickly donned an abundance of down for a cold outhouse or bathhouse run, then packed up our overnight gear for the shuttle.
Being in true wilderness means that all data lines are down. is essential di erence between wild and globalized existence meant that we spent our time focused on the physical tasks required for living immersed in a brutal yet enchanted environment. We felt the bene ts of being forced to slow down and smell the wintry air as we traversed the wild pathways of winter Maine, simply dreaming of what might be put on the table for dinner.
Little Lyford, totally o the grid, welcomed us a er a day’s travel along the narrow, twisting, remote, and solitary trail. Emerging from the woods, we were greeted by wood smoke quartering out of the chimneys of the lodge and three cabins buried in the snow. Ours, “Mountain View,” already had a cheerful re burning in its stove. We drank a slug of whiskey to celebrate, spread our down quilt over the bed, and made our way to the sauna.
Bill, who drove the van, said the deer we kept spotting were attracted to the road because they liked eating the salted ice chunks that fell off the vehicles driving by.
The aptly named "Octagon" was spacious, rustic, book- lled, and warm. Once the propane lights were lit, we didn't ever want to leave.
Baker Mountain Ski Area, Moscow. 5 trails, 460' vertical drop, T-bar lift, and night skiing. Non-profit and volunteer-run. 717-0404, baker-mtn-ski-tow-club.business.site
Bigrock Mountain, Mars Hill. 980' vertical drop; 29 trails and glades, 2 terrain parks, 800’ snow-tubing park; triple chair, double chair, surface carpet, handle tow; 65% snowmaking. 425-6711, bigrockmaine.com.
Big Squaw Mountain, Greenville. A 660' vertical drop, 14 trails, and 10 km of cross-country trails. Backcountry skiing and cat skiing when conditions allow. Ski and snowboard rental shop, deli with beer and wine, live music on Sundays. 695-2400, skibigsquaw.com.
Black Mountain, Rumford. A 1,380' vertical drop, 50 trails and glades, 2 chairlifts, T-bar lift, night skiing, crosscountry skiing, back-country skiing, tubing park, and ski school, with 75% snowmaking. 364-8977, skiblackmountain.org.
Camden Snow Bowl. An 850' vertical drop, 20 trails, 11 glades, 2 chairlifts, carpet lift, rental shop, 400' toboggan chute, 4 km of Nordic trails, snowshoeing, night skiing, ski and snow board school, and 2 terrain parks, with 80% snowmaking. Only ski mountain on the East Coast with ocean views. 236-3438, camden snowbowl.com.
Lonesome Pine Trails, Fort Kent. Maine’s northernmost ski resort. A 500' vertical drop, downhill and cross-country skiing, snowboarding, night skiing, rental shop, grinding rail, and half-pipe. 8345202, lonesomepines.org.
Lost Valley, Auburn. A 243' vertical drop, 22 trails, 2 double chairlifts, night skiing, 2 terrain parks, 600-foot snow-tube park, 9.3 miles of Nordic ski trails, and ski school, with 100% snowmaking. 7841561, lostvalleyski.com.
Maine Adaptive Sports and Recreation Newry. Free winter recreation for children and adults with physical disabilities: alpine skiing and snowboarding at Sunday River, Sugarloaf, and Black Mountain of Maine.
(800) 639-7770, maineadaptive.org.
Mt. Abram, Greenwood. A 1,150' drop, 42 trails and glades, 450 skiable acres, 4 lifts, snow sports school, and 2 lodges. 875-5000, mtabram.com.
New Hermon Mountain. A 350' vertical drop, 60 skiable acres with 20 trails for all skill levels, ski and snowboard lessons, equipment rentals, double chairlift, T-bar, handle tow, night skiing, tubing park, and terrain park with 100% snowmaking. 848-5192, skihermonmountain.com.
Pleasant Mountain, Bridgton. A 1,300' vertical drop, 40 trails, 7 glades, 3 terrain parks, 6 lifts, and night skiing, with 98% snowmaking and views of Mt. Washington. 647-8444, pleasantmountain.com.
Powderhouse Hill, South Berwick. A 150' drop, 3 trails, and rope tow. 384-5858, powderhousehill.com.
Quoggy Jo Ski Center, Presque Isle. A 215' drop, T-bar, 5 trails, natural half-pipe with grind rails, first-time skier area, lessons, rentals, snowshoeing and fat-bike trails, and Nordic and biathlon center. 764-3248, face -
Grouped in lively conversation in front of the large woodstove in the lodge for dinner, nobody cared that it was Superbowl Sunday Millard Fillmore or Franklin Pierce could have been president and things in Lyford would have been the same.
Evan, Lyford’s camp chef, brought us Beijing-style cucumbers crushed with sesame oil and spices. Kim, who spent a decade in China working for the Department of Commerce, was transported. I recall excellent rice, shrimp, pie, and a great white wine chilled from being in our pack. Bedtime at Lyford was 7:30 p.m..
Waking the next day, we wished we could spend a week. But more snow had fallen overnight, so a er a hearty breakfast of fresh strawberries and blueberries, meat, eggs, and freshly baked mu ns, we picked up our lunch bags and headed north from Lyford toward West Branch Pond Camps, about eight miles away.
Try as I might to hide the trail map from Kim, a er two days she had the good sense to examine our day’s routes and immediately noted the only section marked as di cult in all four days. Lyford’s lodge chief had reassured her that the designation was due to a pair of steep curved descents along the narrow trail, and we easily identi ed the rst a mile or so into the day, marked with a cautionary sign. It was less than a hundred yards long, but ice and slope made for a di cult ski descent. However, it was a simple matter to unclip our boots from our skis and walk down without a worry.
When we came upon the second curve, the snow conditions were much better, so we both skied to the bottom, where the trail attened and continued along the Pleasant River e rest of the day, we saw no one except for a lone moose who crossed the trail in deep snow in front of us.
Set on a lake with a full view
of White Cap Mountain beyond it, West Branch Pond Camps is a non-AMC lodge owned and run by the same family for ve generations. Chuck, who had managed Lyford for over a decade before returning to help run his family’s camp with his nephew Eric, had prepared our cabin by starting a re in the Jøtul stove and boiling a kettle of hot water on it.
Steeped in the tradition of historic Maine camps, Eric served hot apple jelly cakes for a dinner appetizer. Faintly sweet, aromatic, and crisp on the outside, they melted in my mouth. I inhaled two and was looking around for a third when he brought out homemade turkey soup, followed by crisply seasoned Cornish game hens. Because West Branch lies along the lodge-to-lodge trail, it participates in the AMC phone reservation system and coordinates meals with the other lodges, so skiers never get the same meal two nights in a row.
The next morning we were greeted with a plate of hot homemade molasses doughnuts, followed by a hearty breakfast of co ee, oatmeal, bacon, and French toast. Several guests commented that they’d made the trek to the camp simply for the morning doughnut plate. We waddled out of the lodge and
strapped on our skis.
e main di erence between West Branch and the AMC lodges is that Eric grooms the ski trails around the West Branch ponds with traditional cross-country ski tracks, while the AMC grooms without tracks, using a method known as skate or corduroy grooming. Kim, who had been sliding laterally on icy portions of the trail for the past three days, reveled in the groomed tracks. Later that morning, we met Eric as he returned along the trail in his grooming vehicle, and he told us that a large proportion of his patrons returned because it was only around West Branch that they could ski groomed tracks. We were sold.
ree miles out, at the edge of the camp property, the groomed tracks ended and the AMC’s skate grooming resumed. We ascended a wide, icy trail for two more miles and met a cross-country ski instructor who was skiing our four-day route in reverse. He showed Kim how to sit on her poles to control her speed on the long descent that lay around the next bend—a perfectly timed
lesson that allowed us to ski the nal three downhill miles to Medawisla Lodge
Set directly on Second Roach Pond with tremendous water views, Medawisla is reminiscent of national park buildings, with its soaring spaces, wood beams, and grand central stone replace separating the dining and sitting areas, plus ecologically friendly modern plumbing and lighting. Our luxurious, well-insulated, ADA-compliant cabin was designed to feel like the historic log and timber structures we’d stayed in over the past three nights.
On our nal night, we hit the woodred sauna, showered in the main lodge, and were treated to a dinner of sweet Maine squash rolls, a kale-onion-chickpea salad, carrot-cashew soup, and crisp pork belly in quantities that far exceeded what we could eat. Pragmatically, one of our table companions had her turtle cheesecake removed to the kitchen to nish the next morning with breakfast.
Kim and I are both seasoned travelers with long stints living in Asia, Africa, and Eastern Europe, but this four-day backcountry trek skiing from one Maine wilderness lodge to the next ranks as a very special experience among many in our lives. For us, it was well worth the e ort. n
Several guests made the trek to the camp simply for the doughnutmorningplate.
Spruce Mountain, Jay. A 300' vertical drop, 11 trails, night skiing, cross-country skiing, 3 rope tows, and ski classes for all ages, with 50% snowmaking. 897-4090, sprucemountain.org.
Sugarloaf, Carrabassett Valley. A 2,820' vertical drop, 163 trails and glades, 4 terrain parks, cross-country skiing, 5 quad (2 high-speed), 5 double, 2 surface, and 1 triple lift, with 95% snowmaking. Zip lines, gym, and anti-gravity complex with skate park and trampolines. 237-2000, sugarloaf.com.
Sunday River, Bethel. A 2,340' vertical drop, 135 trails and glades, and 18 lifts: 1 high-speed chondola, 9 quads, 3 triple, 1 double, and 4 surface lifts, with 95% snowmaking. Night skiing, ice skating, lodges, and 5 terrain parks. (800) 543-2754, sundayriver.com.
Titcomb Mountain, West Farmington. A 350' drop, 16 alpine trails, 2 T-bar lifts, 1 handle tow, 10 miles of groomed cross-country trails, night skiing, and terrain park, with 70% snowmaking. 778-9031, titcombmountain.com.
Carnaval ME Winter Festival, Eastern Prom. Bites & Brews igloo, ice sculpture demos, bonfire, kids’ activities, live music, March 8–12. Carnavalme.com.
Family Scavenger Hunt, Carter’s XC Ski, Bethel. Find Maine animal tracks signs to win prizes. Free for kids, Feb. 18–27. 824-3880.
February Festival, Saddleback Mountain. Fun-filled day with family-friendly events, including music, a bonfire, fireworks, and the stunning Torch Light Parade, Feb. 24. 864-5671.
Full Moon Guided Ski or Snowshoe Tour, Carter’s XC Ski, Bethel. Explore Farwell Mountain by moonlight, then warm up around the bonfire with hot cocoa, Feb. 11. 824-3880.
Glacier Ice Bar & Lounge, Samoset Resort, Rockport. 50,000 lb. of ice transformed into an ice bar and sculptures. Jan. 13–15 & 21–22. 594-2511.
Maine Motorsports Xtreme International Ice Racing Championship, Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Civic Center Sq. Speedway bikes and quads with metal tire studs compete with no brakes on an indoor ice arena, Jan. 14. 791-2200.
Moosehead Lake Togue Ice Fishing Derby, 480 Moosehead Lake Rd., Greenville. Three-day derby with prizes for the three largest togue, Grand Door Prize, and fish pool prizes, Jan. 27–29. 695-2702.
Moosehead Lake Wilderness Sled Dog Race, Leisure Life Resort, Greenville. See these canine athletes run naked, eat raw meat, and sleep in the snow, Feb. 5. 695-2702.
Moosestompers Weekend, Houlton. Celebrate winter all weekend with free and healthy entertainment at the Houlton Area Winter Carnival. Fun for everyone, Feb. 3–5. 521-5938.
Nonstop Nordic. Race Series for all ages and abilities held at Libby Hill Forest Trails, Gray, Jan. 22; Lost Valley Trails, Auburn, Jan. 29; Bethel Inn Resort, Feb. 12; Pine -
land Farms, New Gloucester, Feb. 26; Twin Brook Recreation Area, Cumberland, Mar. 5. Nonstopnordic.com.
Rangeley Pond Hockey Festival. A weekend of pond hockey played on Haley Pond, with games on Saturday and playoffs beginning Sunday morning, Feb. 3–5. facebook.com/rangeleypondhockey.
Skijor Skowhegan, Skowhegan State Fairgrounds. A horse and rider pull a snowboarder or alpine skier down a 1,000’ track of gates and jumps in this team time-trial race, Feb. 25. 612-2571.
Sleigh Rides, High View Farm, Harrison. Enjoy a private, festive horse-drawn sleigh ride with hot cocoa and marshmallows, through Mar. 17. high-view-farm.com/ sleigh-rides-in-maine.
Sleigh Ride Experience, Winterberry Farm, Belgrade. Enjoy a horse-drawn sleigh ride. Experience includes a campfire with marshmallows. Hot tea and cocoa, ice skating and sledding on-site, reservations at: winterberryfarm.square.site/sleigh-rides.
Snodeo, Rangeley Lakes. Celebrate winter with snowmobile races, an antique snowmobile parade, fun games in town, and more, Jan. 19–22. rangeleysnowmobile. com/events/snodeo-2023.
Somerset Snowfest, Skowhegan, Canaan, and Madison. Ice-fishing derby, kite-flying derby, downhill kayak race, winter triathlon, and the Northeast’s only equestrian skijoring competition, Feb. 18–26. 612-2571.
U.S. National Toboggan Championships, Camden Snowbowl. Spirited competition with food and outdoor fun, Feb. 3–5. 236-3438.
Winterpaloozah, Haley Pond Park, Rangeley. Enjoy a day of playing on the frozen pond and in the snow. Horse & wagon rides, Cardboard Sled Race, saucer bowling, snow golf, snow kiting, campfire & marshmallow roast, and much more, Feb. 19. 864-2771.
Wooden Ski Day, Carter’s XC Ski, Bethel. Ski on your wooden skis for a free trail pass. Retro skiwear costume parade, live band, beer tent, Jan. 22. 824-3880.
Collins Center for the Arts, 2 Flagstaff Rd., Orono. NT Live Broadcast: Jack Absolute Flies Again, Feb. 3; Menopause: The Musical, Feb. 17. 581-1755.
Community Little Theatre, 30 Academy St., Auburn. It’s Only A Play, Jan. 19–29. 783-0958.
Good Theater, St. Lawrence Arts Center, 76 Congress St. Crimes of the Heart, through Jan. 29; The High Road, Feb. 1–19; Nureyev’s Eyes, Feb. 22–Mar. 12. 835-0895.
Gracie Theatre, 1 College Cir., Bangor. Rhapsody in Black, Feb. 24. 941-7888.
Grand Theater, 165 Main St., Ellsworth. The Glass Menagerie, Feb. 10–19. 667-9500.
Lincoln Theater, 2 Theater St., Damariscotta. NT Live: The Seagull, Jan. 26–27. 563-3424.
Lyric Music Theater, 176 Sawyer St., South Portland. Wait Until Dark, Jan. 27–Feb. 12. 799-1421.
Mad Horse Theater, 24 Mosher St., South Portland. Quills, Feb. 2–26. 747-4148.
Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Menopause The Musical, Feb. 18. 842-0800.
Penobscot Theatre Company, Bangor Opera House, 131 Main St. Trapped! The Musical, Feb. 9–Mar. 5. 942-3333.
Portland Players Theater, 420 Cottage Rd., South Portland. The Great Gatsby, Jan. 27–Feb. 12. 799-7337.
Portland Stage, 25A Forest Ave. Sweet Goats & Blueberry Señoritas, Jan. 25–Feb. 12 (on-demand Feb. 8–Mar. 5). 774-0465.
Strand Theatre, 345 Main St., Rockland. Met Opera
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Encore: Giordano’s Fedora, Jan. 24; Naughty presented by Sara Juli, Feb. 12. 594-0070.
Waterville Opera House, 1 Common St. Hansel & Gretel, Feb. 20–25. 873-7000.
Maine State Ballet, Lopez Theater, 348 U.S. Route One, Falmouth. Tap, Tap, Jazz, Jan. 28–Feb. 4. 842-0800.
Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Memphis Jookin: The Show feat. Lil Buck, Jan. 31; Shen Yun, Feb. 25. 842-0800.
Portland Ballet, Westbrook Performing Arts Center, 471 Stroudwater St. Uncommon Accord, Feb. 3. 857-3860.
Aura, 121 Center St. Lainey Wilson with Ben Chapman and Meg McRee, Feb. 5; Jimmy Kenny & The Pirate Beach Band, Feb. 18; Alan Doyle, Feb. 21; Dark Desert Eagles, Feb. 24. 772-8274.
Camden Opera House, 29 Elm St. Cindy Kallet & Grey Larson, Jan. 20; David Mallett Band, Feb. 3. 236-7963.
Collins Center for the Arts, 2 Flagstaff Rd., Orono. Neil Berg’s 50 Years of Rock & Roll, Jan. 20; Masterworks III: Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto, Jan. 29; Zenith Ensemble, Feb. 4; Red Hot Chilli Pipers, Feb. 25; Dreamers’ Circus, Feb. 26. 581-1755.
Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Civic Center Sq. Anthrax & Black Label Society, Feb. 2. 791-2200.
Skowhegan Area Feb. 18-26
A celebration of all things winter. SomersetSnowFest.org
Friends of the Kotzschmar Organ, Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Christmas with Kennerley, on-demand through Jan. 21. 553-4363.
Gracie Theatre, 1 College Cir., Bangor. Classic Rock Orchestra, Jan. 21; LaKisha Jones, Feb. 11. 941-7888.
One Longfellow Square, 181 State St. Honeysuckle & Ben Cosgrove, Jan. 20; Joe K. Walsh feat. Darol Anger, Grant Gordy, John Suntken, and Brittany Karlson, Jan. 21; Jon Spencer & the HITmakers, Jan. 25; Funkationland, Jan. 27; Muddy Ruckus, Feb. 3; Studio Two, Feb. 4. 761-1757.
Opera House at Boothbay Harbor, 86 Townsend Ave. Larry & Joe, Jan. 21; January Open Mic, Jan. 27; Pat Colwell & the Soul Sensations, Feb. 11; February Open Mic, Feb. 24. 633-5159.
Portland Conservatory of Music, 28 Neal St. PCM Student Recitals, Jan. 21–22. 775-3356.
Portland Ovations, Hannaford Hall, USM Portland Campus, 88 Bedford St. Bridget Kibbey, Feb. 12. 842-0800.
Portland Ovations, Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Jessica Vosk, Feb. 16. 842-0800.
Portland Symphony Orchestra, Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. The Rite of Spring, Jan. 29–30 (on-demand Feb. 8–Mar. 10); The Romantics | Rachmaninoff & Schumann, Feb. 14; Once Upon a Time, Feb. 19. 842-0800.
State Theatre, 609 Congress St. Get The Led Out, Jan. 26; BoomBox feat. The BackBeat Brass, Jan. 27; Big Thief, Feb. 2; Big Head Todd & the Monsters, Feb. 9; moe., Feb. 17–18; The Dip, Feb. 21; Cory Wong feat. Victor Wooten, Feb. 27. 956-6000.
St. Lawrence Arts, 76 Congress St. Wagner’s Nightmare, Feb. 12. 775-5568.
Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dugway Rd., Brownfield. The Rough & Tumble, Jan. 20; Denny Breau & Carol Noonan, Jan. 21; Dustbowl Revival, Jan. 27; Mike Farris, Jan. 28; Kris Delmhorst, Feb. 4; On a Winter’s Night, Feb. 14; Natalie MacMaster & Donnell Leahy, Feb. 16–17; Alana MacDonald, Feb. 24. 935-7292.
Strand Theatre, 345 Main St., Rockland. Mike Farris, Jan. 27; On a Winter’s Night, Feb. 15. 594-0070.
Unitarian Universalist Church of Brunswick, 1 Middle St. Bold Riley, Feb. 4. 729-8515.
University of Southern Maine, Corthell Hall, 37 College Ave., Gorham. Faculty Concert Series: Justin MurphyMancini, Jan. 27; Ed Reichert’s Winter Musical Theatre Studio Recital, Feb. 5–7; Oliver Scott & Jack Dodd Recital, Feb. 16–18; Bella StCyr & Michael Overko Junior Recital, Feb. 23–25. 780-5555.
Waterville Opera House, 1 Common St. Shemekia Copeland, Feb. 4. 873-7000.
Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Civic Center Sq. Jo Koy, Feb. 16. 791-2200.
Jonathan’s Ogunquit, 92 Bourne Ln. Bob Marley, Feb. 16. 646-4777.
Penobscot Theatre Company, Bangor Opera House, 131 Main St. Ready, Set, Go!, Feb. 19. 942-3333.
St. Lawrence Arts, 76 Congress St. Hey Party People!, Feb. 14. 775-5568.
Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dugway Rd., Brownfield. Bob Marley, Feb. 15. 935-7292.
ArtBates College Museum of Art, 75 Russell St., Lewiston. And So Did Pleasure Take the Hand of Sorrow and They Wandered Through the Land of Joy, through Mar. 18; Expressions of Compassion: Selections from the Barbara Morris Goodbody Photography Collection, through Mar. 18. 786-6158.
Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 245 Maine St., Brunswick. Antiquity & America: The Ancient Mediterranean in the United States, through Feb. 5.12 725-3275.
Brick Store Museum, 117 Main St., Kennebunk. The Great State of Illustration in Maine, through Feb. 28. 985-4802.
Carol L. Douglas Studio and Gallery, 394 Commercial St., Rockport. Landscape and marine paintings, workshops and instruction. Watch-me-paint.com. 585-201-1558.
Center for Maine Contemporary Art, 21 Winter St., Rockland. 2023 CMCA Biennial, Jan. 28–May 7. 701-5005.
Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Light on Maine Street, through Jan. 23; Alex Katz: Theater and Dance, through Feb. 19. 859-5600.
Cove Street Arts, 71 Cove St. Menagerie a Trois, through Jan. 21. 808-8911.
David Lussier Gallery, 66 Wallingford Sq., Kittery. Gallery with works by artists including Benjamin Lussier, David Lussier, George Van Hook, and Pamela Lussier. 860-336-9051.
Greenhut Galleries, 146 Middle St. Holiday Show, through Jan. 28; February/March Greenhut Artists Group Exhibit, Feb. 1–Apr. 1. 772-2693.
Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St. Chansonetta Stanley Emmons: Staging the Past, through Mar. 31. 774-1822.
Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath. Featured Finds, through Feb. 23; SeaChange: Darkness and Light in the Gulf of Maine, Feb. 3–Dec. 31. 443-1316.
Maine Sculpture Trail, Schoodic International Sculpture Symposium. An outdoor exhibit of 34 sculptures spanning over 273 miles along the coastal region of Downeast Maine. schoodicsculpture.org.
Moss Galleries, 100 Fore St. Charlie Hewitt, Jan. 21–28. 804-0459.
Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq. Kathy Butterly: Out of one, many / Headscapes, through Mar. 5; American Perspectives, Feb. 3–May 7. 775-6148.
Richard Boyd Art Gallery, 15 Epps St., Peaks Island. Ringing in the New Year, through Jan. 29; A Group Exhibition of Paintings by Women Artists, Feb. 3–26. 712-1097. River Arts, 36 Elm St, Damariscotta. Passages, Jan. 21–Feb. 18; 563-6868.
University of New England Art Galleries, UNE Art Gallery, 716 Stevens Ave. Michael Kolster: Home and Other Realms and Work from the Stephen K. Halpert Collection of Photography, through Jan. 22; 602-3000.
“As Mom aged, we thought it best if she stayed in her house, but even with hours of expensive home care, Mom wasn’t thriving. She needed more. She especially needed more socialization — not isolation; and reliable access to care when she needed it. So she made the move to Scarborough Terrace. She truly loves her elegant new home! Life is more complete in a community with lots of friends and activities, tastefully prepared meals, daily care, medication management, and even transportation to appointments and outings. I know Mom is happier and more relaxed now... and I am too. We only wish she’d moved sooner.”
Lincoln Theater, 2 Theater St., Damariscotta. Night Nurse, Feb. 2–3. 563-3424.
Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Civic Center Sq. Harlem Globetrotters, Feb. 9. 791-2200.
Portland Ovations, Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Wabanaki Stories, Feb. 4842-0800.
St. Lawrence Arts, 76 Congress St. Dragology, Jan. 22;
WW&F Railway, 97 Cross Rd., Alna. Steam and Sleighs to SeaLyon Farm, Feb. 4, 11 & 18. 882-4193.
Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Civic Center Sq. Portland on Tap, Feb. 4. 791-2200.
Lincoln Theater, 2 Theater St., Damariscotta. Talking Food in Maine, Jan. 19; Mary Allen Lindmann, Feb. 16. 563-3424.
Now You’re Cooking, 49 Front St., Bath. Facebook Live cooking demos with a rotating list of staff & local chefs, every Thu. 443-1402.
To submit an event listing: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/ submit-an-event/
Compiled by Bethany Palmer
Maine Restaurant Week 1–12
Prime time to celebrate old favorites and discover new ones.
Maine Maple Sunday 25–26
Don’t miss this tasty first trickle of spring!
The Moxie Festival 7–9
Yarmouth Clam Festival 21–23
You have to go at least once in your life. It’s a rule.
If you’ve got the moxie to love Moxie, join this Maine-spirited celebration of our most controversial beverage.
Maine Harvest Festival 18–19
There’s more to Bangor than collegiates, concertgoers, and Stephen King creepers. November brings out the foodies and flannel for the Maine Harvest Festival showcasing the best of Maine’s bounty.
Support your local farmers! Make friends with the sourdough bread vendor! Purchase that beautiful heirloom kale—the one that definitely won’t wilt forgotten in your fridge!
18–20
Blueberries ain’t just for Sal! Dig out your “berry” best blue-carpet attire and stroll the vendorfull streets of Machias. (Bear in pursuit not required.)
Anthony’s Italian Kitchen 30 years of Old World recipes. Best meatballs in town. Mile-high lasagnas, fresh-filled cannoli pastries, 54 sandwiches, pizza. A timeless great family spot. Beer and wine. Free parking. 151 Middle St., Portland, AnthonysItalianKitchen. com, 774-8668.
Bandaloop has moved into a restored 1700s barn on Route 1 in Arundel. Since 2004 we have offered locally sourced, globally inspired, organic cuisine. Our new home has plenty of space, parking, outdoor seating, takeout, and an event space in the loft. We continue to offer something for every palate—from vegans to carnivores and everything in between. bandalooprestaurant.com
Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511, https://www.restaurantji.com/me/portland/brunosrestaurant-and-tavern-/
Bull Feeney’s, authentic Irish pub and restaurant. Hearty Irish fare, from-scratch sandwiches, local seafood. Maine craft & premium imported brews. Maine’s most extensive single malt, Irish & Bourbon whiskey selection. 375 Fore St. 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com
The Corner Room features bright, wide-open space with towering ceilings complemented by
handcrafted woodwork. Patrons can expect a warm, comfortable atmosphere, marked by the rich aromas of house-made pastas, pizzas, antipasti and artisanal breads. Come and enjoy the taste of Venice in the heart of Portland, ME! 879-4747, 110 Exchange Street. Visit thecornerroomkitchenandbar.com for more information.
Fish Bones Grill Creative American Cuisine beside the historic Bates Mill canal in the heart of downtown Lewiston. Serving Dinner, Tuesday – Saturday from 4:00 PM. Get hooked at 70 Lincoln St. in Bates Mill No. 6! Reserv.: 333-3663, fishbonesgrill.com.
Flatbread Company Portland Tucked between two wharves with picturesque waterfront views. Familyfriendly restaurant w/ signature pizzas, weekly carne & veggie specials. Made w/ local ingredients, baked in wood-fired, clay ovens. Everything’s homemade, organic, and nitrate-free. 24 local drafts & cocktails showcase all-local breweries & distilleries. 72 Commercial St., 772-8777, flatbreadcompany.com.
J’s Oyster Premier seafood destination & locals’ favorite w/indoor & outdoor waterfront seating on a scenic Portland pier. Since 1977, classic favorites, friendly service. Named by Coastal Living one of “America’s Best Seafood Dives 2016.” 722-4828.
Maria’s Ristorante Portland’s original classic Italian restaurant. Greg & Tony Napolitano prepare classics: Zuppa di Pesce, Eggplant Parmigiana, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato & Maine’s Best Meatballs. See our own sauce in local stores. $11.95-$22.95. Open at 5 Wed.-Sat. Catering always avail. 1335 Congress Street 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com.
Most like it cold, some like it hot (ever try boiling steamers in beer?), and some even like it dry.
Since Portlander Neal Dow was the father of the Temperance Movement, we’ve resolved to try some local “dry”–to see if we can tolerate it.
Mayor Dow ordered the militia to fire on protestors during Portland's legendary Rum Riot of 1855.
Our city has two breweries crafting non-alcoholic (NA) beers that taste enough like the real thing to vanquish the memory of insipid non-alcoholic beers like O’Douls dispensed by the macro-breweries. Neither Kit NA Brewing in West Bayside nor Eighteen Twenty Brewing Co. in Riverside Industrial Park currently has a tasting room, so we decide to bring beer from both to Schulte & Herr, home of fabulous German comfort food and a BYOB policy.
Schulte & Herr is cozy and warm in a way that’s especially inviting in the depths of winter. We’re thirsty, and our NA beers quickly address this need. To qualify as NA, a beer must alcohol content of less than .5% All That raspberry sour, A Better Blonde ale, Peek American pale ale, Wave Finder India pale 1820 Brewing Co. all taste true to type, though NA beers lack the finishing flavor kick of alcohol.
Kit NA Brewing’s On Your American blonde ale IPA also taste as one would expect of these beer styles. Being gentlemen, we prefer the blondes: On Your Mark strikes the right
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Bottom line: printed publications provide readers with a meaningful and memorable experience.
Cummings Printing is a third-generation family-owned company specializing in printing high-quality, shortrun publications. At each phase of the print process, they provide a human-touch that is unmatched by the competition. We help you create compelling publications so your readers truly understand the allure of the printed word.
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balance between citrus and pine notes, with a touch of hoppy bitterness; A Better Blonde is also malt and hops balanced, and extremely quaffable.
The feast that follows, featuring mounds of schnitzel, spaetzle, potato, soups, and salads, is delicious and reasonably priced. The meal leaves us fully sated but also missing a bit of a “kick” at the end. This, however, is self-inflicted: another New Year’s resolution leads us to pass on a dessert whose description includes the words “cake,” “chocolate,” and “raspberry.” What were we thinking?! n
4
13 percent of Americans observed Dry January in 2021.
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Open 10 am - 4 pm Mon. - Fri. 1189 Congress St. • Portland ME
For best service call for an appointment (207) 775-4048 / (888) 599-6626
As an example of our commitment to better health for all Mainers, St. Mary’s Health System and MaineHealth have partnered to bring the largest network of specialists to central Maine. is means thousands of our neighbors in the Lewiston/Auburn area will have access to the most trusted specialty care the state has to o er.
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We all know that Muhammad Ali beat Sonny Liston with the famous phantom punch in Lewiston
But did you hear the story that he doubled back to Maine decades later on a private mission? When he did, he visited this lovely house at 24 Franklin Street in Lewiston, steps from the Bates College campus.
Listed for $389,000, this Tudor-style home “was inspired in the 1920s and 1930s from the medieval storybook cottages in England. Its stately manor turns heads.”
Arched doorways retain their original stain. Cast-iron radiators keep you and your beasties (we recommend a Scottish Terrier
or Border Terrier) warm and toasty.
TUDOR HARDTOP, LOW MILEAGE
e 9 x 16-foot sun porch looks out on a compact backyard. ere are three bedrooms on the second oor, with room for two more on the third oor. Or convert it into a fairy ballroom (the third oor is not included in the city’s gure of 2,181 square feet).
Entering through the theatrical curved front door, you see a whimsical tableau starring a perfectly varnished oating stairway
Cast-iron radiators keep you and your beasties warm and toasty.
with curved bannister. You don’t need to click your heels—you know right away you’re in a charmed space.
The grand dining room has gorgeous varnished mullions, built-in china cabinets with fanlights, and love-
e living room has arched doorways with keystones, and a brick replace. Floors on the rst oor are original. e door hardware is original
have their original dark stain, perfect for time travel. And you’ll love the original built-in linen cupboards in a linen shade. e stairway to the third oor is dressed in charmingly unique children’s
wallpaper (as if the house needed another magic touch): hockey skates and—a mystical coincidence?—boxing gloves.
So why was the greatest boxer ever back here near the site of one of his greatest triumphs? We hear he was visiting a pal who once lived in this house, a fellow su erer Parkinson’s disease. Some heroes lose er their death. Not this one.
(Read our interview with Muhammad Ali about the Liston ght in Lewiston: issuu. com/portlandmagazine/docs/2002fmsm/13
So why was the greatest boxer ever back here near the site of one of his greatest
and his love letter to Lewiston: issuu.com/portlandmagazine/ docs/fm17_ ipbooksm/64.)
You may not be a J. M. Barrie fan, but beware— this Peter Pan-perfect house will cast its spell on you. e original two-car ga-
rage with wavy gambrel roof and a spacious second oor still has its weather vane pointing you toward the “second star to the right and straight on till morning.” n 2021 taxes are $4,335
Nestled
stockton spring - ocean
Built in 2003, nothing spared here folks!
307 Belmont Ave. • Belfast, ME 04915 207-338-6000
307 Belmont ave. • Belfast, Me 04915 207-338-6000 • UnitedrealtyMe.com
Year-Round Lake House was built in 1999. Interior adorned with wide spruce & yellow pine. Living room & kitchen oor plan; French Doors open to a 1st fce; master suite on upper level. Beautiful views. Walkout basement. 110’ waterfront, beach & dock. Rec room over Mls:1359899 $499,900
with modern decor throughout. Well-appointed kitchen w/ breakfast bar; open to dining which in turn opens to the rear, private deck. Master En-Suite w/private bath. Attached 2-car $275,000
Captivating views from every room, wraparound deck, lower level patio, Great Room w/freplace, Master En-Suite w/freplace & jetted tub, family room on lower level with walkout to the shore!
Spacious 4 bedroom 3 bath home on Beautiful Swan Lake w/over 700’ shared water front to access for your boating, swimming and fshing enjoyment. 3 foors of living. Master on 1st foor. Lovely views. Make this your summer or yearround home. Mls:1410836 $394,900
Mls: 1302727 | $349,900
Beautifully Restored New England Cape on Pitcher Rd in Belfast. Sunny & open 1st foor w/spacious kitchen featuring granite counter tops, stainless appliances & top of the line cabinetry. Slider leads to new deck that wraps around to the rear overlooking the lovely apple trees & gardens. Living, dining, den &1st foor bdrm, laundry & full bath all on 1st foor. 3 rooms & full bath up. Large 2-story barn ideal for shop/home business. 3 miles to downtown waterfront. $429,900
Custom built 3/2 home features intricate details throughout. Lovely wood foors, seasonal water views and easy access on the Rail Trail which leads to the Belfast Waterfront. Water facing screened porch and spacious deck. Must SEE! Mls:1295111 | $229,900
Walk to the Village Green, Wharf, Yacht Club, Northport Public Golf Course and all the amenities The Historic Bayside Oceanfront Community ofers. Charming home built in 2017, situated on a cleared and sunny .82 Acre lot. Only 4 miles South of Belfast and 16 miles North of Camden. Main level features an open foor plan. First foor guest suite with separate entrance, full bath, laundry & kitchenette. Perhaps this is your remote workspace, studio or ofce, and part-time guest suite. Eco-friendly home, the ocean is only steps away. Seasonal water view. Occupancy May 1, 2023. $700,000
$450,000
Beautiful 3 bedroom 2 bathroom condo only 2 miles to downtown waterfront! Located within a 46 unit complex spread over 44 acres with walking paths. Lovely, spacious deck. Master w/private bath. Maintenance-free living included in price. Mls:1405561 $139,900
Serenity, Peace, and Tranquility on Cross Pond in Morrill… describes this amazing property. Nestled in the middle of a spacious 5+ Acres, this home is like none you will fnd. Chef’s kitchen, Living rm & dining features gas freplace; den w/ woodstove. Wrap-around deck w/hot tub. Master bdrm features private bath. Central Air, full house generator, outdoor shower, Brazilian hardwood decking, dry basement, det. 2-car garage, FULLY FURNISHED HOME. 284’ WATERFRONT $495,000
Belfast Commanding views across Penobscot Bay from this Contemporary, only 5 miles to downtown Belfast waterfront. Built in 2005, this 1624 sq. ft home features access to oceanfront from every room! City utilities, private development. Enjoy lobster bakes on your own beach! Mls: 1283853 | $549,900
Quintessential Maine Cottage home only steps from the ocean with beach access via Summer Street. 2/2 Home, open foor concept, living, dining and kitchen, overlooking Penobscot Bay! Enjoy hours on the front porch overlooking the water. You may never want to leave it. This year-round home is in a small development with municipal water and sewer. Walk to the Village of Searsport and public parks. Only 10 minutes to downtown Belfast. Restrictive covenants to protect property values. Schedule your private showing today!
Impressive Maine Cottage style home built in an idyllic setting, on the shores of Penobscot Bay. 300’ of stunning oceanfront. Home boasts 11 rooms, 5,000 sq ft of superior living space. The views are stunning, overlooking your own waterfront paradise with your pier spanning into the ocean. Chef’s kitchen with center island, Wolf Range, Sub-Zero refrigerator, beverage coolers, pantry cabinet. The living, dining and kitchen, ofer an open fow w/direct access to ocean facing, expansive deck. The Primary En-Suite ofers a balcony overlooking the water. A guest suite over the garage with a private stairway, ofers guests their privacy when visiting. Walkout lower level currently a theater. Separate studio of garage. 2 Fieldstone freplaces. Deep water, 5-ton boat mooring, dock and ramp to swim deck ofers yacht enthusiasts the ability to enjoy your vessels onsite. 1.7 Acres of beautifully landscaped grounds. Exclusively Ofered for $2,500,000 Call: 207-322-4848
$429,000
Attention Equestrians! Near downtown, home features 8 rooms, spacious kitchen w/island, family room overlooking private 14.46 acres, pastures for horses. Horse barn w/ electric & water opens to paddock area. Mls:1401830 only $269,900
Charming 5 bdrm, 6 bath home features a fexible foorplan, adaptable to any lifestyle. Previously operated as The Night Fall Inn, with every bedroom serviced with a private bathroom. Walking distance to the pedestrian bride, spanning the mouth of the Passagassawakeag River, where it empties into the Belfast Bay; walk across the bridge through a working shipyard into the quintessential seaside town of Belfast. The Belfast Harbor Walk & The Belfast Rail Trail, ideal for biking & walking.
Only 2 miles to downtown, this lovely home has an updated kitchen, freplace in living, open porch. Most recently operated as a business, located on U.S. Rt. 1 makes this ideal home offce, accounting, legal or medical facility. Mls: 1290995 | $254,900
Belfast Sea Captain’s Home that has been impeccably maintained and updated. Walking distance to downtown Belfast and also to the Belfast Harbor Walk and Rail Trail. Great Room/studio with separate entrances ideal as home offce, professional, clinical, spa unit. Formal dining and living rooms, spacious kitchen with tin ceilings, This is the dream home you’ve been searching near Belfast Proper. $374,900
Lovely Cottage style home located in one of downtown Belfast’s most desirable locations, only steps from public beach access. 8-room, 3 bdrm/3 baths, kitchen and bath modifcations, accommodating those with mobility issues. 1st foor Master En-Suite features access to the spacious deck, which overlooks the 20’x40’, 9’ deep, in-ground pool and beautiful landscaped gardens. Ofce/den on 1st foor, wood stove in living room. 2nd f ofers 2 bedrooms and a full bath. Walkout lower level features a hot tub, bar and family room. Water Views! Don’t delay, call today! $550,000
SPRING LAKE – Escape to nature and a wonderful waterfront property on a great remote body of water. Off grid w/generator, year round building, detached garage, Ice fish, hunt, enjoy all seasons! $495,000.
1322 Main Street – BEAVER MTN. LAKE – A park like setting, extremely private location, 3 beds, 2.5 baths, 596 feet of waterfront, attached garage, detached garage, potential guest cottage. $775,000.
RANGELEY LAKE – Lakeside Marina & Convenience - Wonderful business opportuinty in downtown commercial zoning, convenience store, 25 boat slips, gas, boat rental business, great waterfront location! $965,000.
A wonderful year round house at one of the most exciting ski areas in the east! Wide open foor plan with 18 foot cathedral ceilings, exposed beams and 2 gas freplaces. This contemporary chalet design is great for entertaining and ofers enough space for the whole family with 6 bedrooms and 5 1/2 baths. Massive windows on the back of the house allow lots of sunlight and westerly views of Saddleback Lake and East Kennebago Mountain Range. be part of the excitement at
631 Bald Mtn. Road – MOOSELOOK LAKE – A rare offering, 4 bed, 4.5 bath contemporary lakefront home w/beach, detached garage AND private island w/2 bedroom guest cottage, 3.56 Acres! $1,899,000.
PROCTOR ROAD
RANGELEY LAKE – 2582 Main St - Wonderful commercial business on Main Street w/ 105' on Rangeley Lake, Marina/ Convenience Store, 25+ Slips, Gas, Shop, Downtown Commercial Zoning, High Traffic Location, $965,000.
PINE GROVE LANE – Located close to the village with expansive southwest views of Rangeley Lake, 4 beds, 3.5 baths, very close to Saddleback Ski Area, snowmobile and ATV from your doorstep, heated garage! $639,000.
Saddleback and own your dream home today! $1,650,000
Potential
Well Wooded 2+ Acre Parcel Offers Potential Views of Beaver Mt Lake! Several Possible Building Sites To Choose From. Located Directly Across the Street From Deeded Lake Access w/Small Boat Launch. $95,000
Wooded,
EUSTIS RIDGE OVERLOOK Wooded 3.87 Acre Parcel Recently Selectively Cut to Enhance the Beautiful Flagstaff Lake and Mountain Vistas. Rough Driveway in, Building Site Cleared, Underground Power in Place. Bring Your Building Plans! $99,500
Well Wooded 2+ Acre Parcel Offers Potential Views of Beaver Mt Lake! Several Possible Building Sites To Choose From. Located Directly Across the Street From Deeded Lake Access w/Small Boat Launch. $67,900
New to Market Building Parcel. Gradually Sloping 2.46 Wooded Acres with Potential Views. Located on Town Maintained Rd – Lot Has Been Surveyed, Soils Tested, Driveway Entrance In, Power Roadside. Country Living At Its Best! $79,000
Tucked
Million Dollar Views From This Hillside Lot in Desirable Rangeley West Subdivision! 1.8 Acre Parcel w/Direct Snowmobile Trail Access. Surveyed, Soils Tested. Minutes to Oquossoc Amenities, Rangeley, Saddleback. $114,900
Very Private Building Parcel in Desirable Manor Woods Subdivision. Gently Sloping 3 Acre Lot Has Rough Driveway In, Potential Rangeley Lake Views. Handy to Town Amenities, Saddleback, ATV/Snowmobile Friendly. $139,900
Sales Manager (207) 831-4934
kelly@kellywentworth.com
Another home built by Custom Built Homes of Maine.
Gilbert D. (Specs) Eaton III (207) 491-5150 specseaton@gmail.com
Freeport, Maine (207) 831-4934 kelly@kellywentworth.com
(207) 831-4934 kelly@kellywentworth.com
Millinocket – Year Round Home
MLS#1406473 (Land) MLS#1406283 (Land & House) Rosewood Lane (Lot 36), Cobb Bridge Commons, New Gloucester, ME
Cobbs Bridge Commons is an upscale community close to Brunswick, L/A and Portland. The subdivision offers privacy, walking trail to the Royal River and is close to Fox Ridge Golf course. The land is listed for $59,900 or with a new home for $379,900
This 50 x 50 lot is in the VC zone (Village/Commercial). There are several upgrades to the lot; foundation, garage pad, power, sewer and water are in place. A home design has been created by Waltman Architectural. Create a unique living style (condo living) without the associated fees. Located on Morse Street, you can walk to Main Street for shopping, theater, dining, schools and parks and the Bow Street Market.
Classic Maine home located in the heart of Yarmouth on a private lot. This ranch ofers three bedrooms and two full baths, the kitchen is open to the living room that has a soapstone wood stove. The foors are hardwood, tile and stone with radiant heat. There is a wrap-around porch and granite walks.
$195,000
views of the Katahdin Range on the shores of South Twin Lake. Private sandy beach with
MLS#1312731 33 Bluff Head Rd, Chebeague Island, ME
$250,000
$395,000
Winters are short and misty in the shadow of Old Venice, on the eastern shore of that northernmost reach of the Mediterranean, as starlings emerge from their wooded shelters to usurp the summer empire of seagulls. e skies grow brown upon the arrival of their undulating clouds, tracing the path to the islands across the way from the city of Rovigno. at is the city I have come to love from the earliest of my days, as my father bought a tiny place on a second oor of an ancient building that served as a quarantine for those returning to Venice from their distant merchant routes on the Silk Way. It is currently known as Rovinj, a puzzle to sound out for the visitors from afar, both names begotten from the Latin Ruvinium, as its historical origin leads to Mons Rubineus, a rock upon which its inhabitants settled in ancient times.
e tourist tides slow down to a trickle of weary travelers in November, from its summer of millions in broken booking records. As outside visits recede, what is le of native humanity emerges from its crumbling dwellings to greet the slowing down of time. One of those aging savants is a man everyone calls the Count, although his nobility is borne out of acts not sanctioned by any monarchs, past or present. He strolls along
the stone white shore with a ragged shopping trolley by his side, dressed most o en as a punk pirate abandoned to the laws of the land by his marauding comrades in debauch. As soon as the Count stops by the abandoned shipyard and looks around, a cat or two emerge from their cold weather hideouts, looking at him with unconcealed anticipation. Pouring dry food on the stone pavement, he steps back to allow each cat to nd its way to the much-awaited nourishment. As the Count keenly gazes at the road leading to the posh marina ahead, the tailless tabby snuggles against his ankle before its teeth begin to crunch the nuggets. One can overhear him mutter to the animal, as he squats to stroke its fur, raising his index nger towards the sky. “Eeeh… Humanoids, humanoids…” e corporation that owns the marina and the seashore hotels around it has tried to ban him from feeding his feral crew of meowing furballs that make Rovinj such a charming place to visit. But the Count stands his ground, waving his index nger at the guards, quoting Nietzsche in German
to the e ect of man being the cruelest of all animals. “Great minds across the ages have had pity for animals… You are just a bunch of hillbillies turned monsters by all this wealth!” e guards giggle and elbow each other as he promenades further by the rows of shining yachts, to reach the breakwater rocks at the other edge of the marina, where most of his feline tribe snuggles between the giant stones. Coming closer, one sees a swastika-shaped earring in his right ear and an iron cross on a choker around his wrinkled neck. He does not hide his a nity for those long-gone days of Germanic domination of this part of the Adriatic, drawing uneasy glances from those whose families have been maimed and murdered in the process. Most of the older population dismiss him as a Katzenführer, while the young treat him like just another aging village idiot. e Count watches them all with scorn as he approaches a litter of kittens by the azure surface of the sea and begins to chat with them tenderly. Starlings swoop over them in another surprising formation, as the crimson sun begins its descent beyond the horizon. n
