WHAT'S UP . LUÍS ONOFRE . BLACK BEAUTY . OBSESSION . FEET ON THE AIR . WILD THING
credits
One Magazine, Four Covers
Director Editor-in-Chief Assistant Graphic Design Photography Styling Collaboration Illustration Special Thanks
President of APICCAPS Paulo Gonçalves paulogoncalves@mail.apiccaps.pt Cláudia Pinto Mário Teixeira (www.manifestoworks.com) Frederico Martins (www.fredericomartins.net) Fernando Bastos Pereira Catarina Rito, Carlos Tomé, Joana Jervell, Ilídia Pinto, Inês Soares, Manuel Arnaut, Patrícia Gonçalves and Susana Ribeiro António Soares (www.antoniosoares.tumblr.com) AICEP Portugal Global, ANJE and ModaLisboa Ana Paula Andrade (ANJE), Fátima Santos (AORP), Manuela Oliveira (MODALISBOA), Mónica Neto (ANJE), Paula Ascenção Laranja (Min. Economia)
Advertising Coordination
Ema Aguiar Ramos (Pegada Criativa)
Owner
APICCAPS Portuguese Footwear, Components, Leather Goods Manufacturers’ Association Rua Alves Redol 372 4050-042 Porto Tel: +351 225 074 150 Fax: +351 225 074 179 apiccaps@mail.telepac.pt www.apiccaps.pt www.portugueseshoes.pt www.portuguesoul.pt
ISBN Circulation Printed by
2:3
2182-2298 10.000 copies Orgal Impressores
FALL / WINTER 2014/15 www.jjheitorshoes.com geral@jjheitor.pt T +351 256 379 630 F +351 256 379 639
editorial
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Paulo Gonçalves
In‌Fashion From arts and entertainment to tourism, from gastronomy to sports, never before has Portugal been literally in fashion as today, accumulating prestige and reputation. In this edition, we present you again with the best of Portuguese fashion. Beginning with the footwear sector, which grew over 40% since 2009 and now reaches 150 different markets, we introduce you to the excellence of the national offer. Meet the protagonists of Portuguese fashion and, in particular, some of the youngest talents who brandish originality and irreverence as their arguments in the international arena.
4:5
Also learn, in great detail, about a modern country that, despite its eight centuries of history, continues to reinvent itself at every turn. A country with soul. A country called Portugal.
WWW.SANTOSSHOES.COM
32 Black Beauty
004
Editorial
058
Portugal Fashion
008
A Matter of Numbers
062
Obsession
010
Making of
074
New Talents
016
What’s UP
076
Wild Thing
024
Symbols of Tradition
090
The Rebirth of Craftmanship
026
Luís Onofre
092
Feet on the Air
030
Black Beauty
102
Are Portuguese Men in Fashion
052
Sharam - The Golden Star
110
Timeless Beauty
054
ModaLisboa
113
Portugal
64 Obsession
6-7
78 Wild Thing
94 Feet on Air
WWW.FLYLONDON.COM
overview
1700
A M AT T E R O F
150
MILLION EUROS
THE NUMBER OF COUNTRIES
the value of shoes exported by Portugal last year. Over the past four years, sales have increased 41%
to where Portuguese footwear is currently exported. Costa Rica, Yemen, Syria, Vietnam and Tanzania are some of the new markets for Portuguese footwear exports. Over the past three years, the geographical map of footwear exports increased in 18 countries, and now stands at 150, around the five continents.
17 PORTUGUESE COMPANIES
20 YEARS FLY LONDON has just turned. It is one of the Portuguese benchmarks worldwide. It was born in 1984 and today it is one of the great assets of the Portuguese footwear in the world.
80 DE GIER ANIVERSARY one of the oldest Portuguese companies specialized in the production of luxury footwear.
Portuguese companies which will participate, next July at Colombiamoda in Medellin. Latin America is a great bet for the Portuguese footwear for the coming years.
26 EUREKA STORES one of the Portuguese brands of the moment. By the end of the year it should amount to 30. As from 2015, the opening of stores overseas will be initiated. a mathematical journey across the flat or vertiginous universe of shoes
8-9
www.tatuaggi.pt
back stage
Built in the mid twelfth century, the Castle of Pombal was the setting for the editorial of Black Beaty. Through the lens of Frederico Martins and the styling of Fernando Bastos Pereira get to know the proposals of Portuguese brands and designers for next winter.
MAKING OF Photos Pedro SĂĄ
This is, however, only one of the four photographic works we present you in this edition of Portuguese Soul magazine. Discover, in every page, what the main protagonists in Portuguese fashion have in store for you for this year’s cold season.
10-11
tr
co
nd
is n
ow reaching o v
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r1 5
0
12-13
,a
Footwear exports increased from 63 to 74 million pairs in four years. Portugal exports jumped from 1.232 million in 2009 to 1.735 million EUR in 2013, a 41% boost.
ld
Overall, the Portuguese footwear exports grew by more than 40% since 2009. On average, during this period, sales abroad were up 10.2% each year. The sector’s growth is directly related to many factors. David Braga, from Valuni, underlines that “the importers are lining up to produce in Portugal.”
th
In result, exports outside the European Union more than doubled in the past four years. The weight of exports to countries like China, U.S., Japan or Russia accounts now for 13% of total exports (in 2008 only 8%).
m aroun d
Costa Rica, Yemen, Syria, Vietnam and Tanzania. These are some of the new markets for Portuguese footwear exports. Over the past three years, the geographical map of footwear exports increased in 18 countries, and now stands at 150, in the five continents.
ers fro
PORTUGUESE FOOTWEAR ALREADY COVERS 150 COUNTRIES
ow
s.
at
ew o r
t un
s to
o ll
a l l c o nt i n e nt
ar conti nue
tf
in r ie s
e gu
se
tw e fo o
ac
Po rt u
footwear
In this period, exports expanded in most major markets, 31% to 1.513 million EUR in the European Union, mainly driven by performance in France (19% to 428 million EUR), Germany (38% to 318 million EUR) and The Netherlands (41% to 234 million EUR). During that period, the Portuguese footwear seems to have “rediscovered” the UK (14% to 127 million EUR) and Spain (43% to 164 million EUR) markets. Outside Europe, the Portuguese footwear has also shown an excellent performance, with sales increasing over 160%. Noteworthy registration in Russia (491% more to 49 million EUR), U.S. (237% more to 27 million EUR), Angola (107% more to 26 million EUR), Canada (237% more to 18 million EUR) and Japan (126% more to 15 million EUR). Also during this period, Portuguese companies gained awareness of Australia (sales already close to 9 million EUR), China (over 5 million EUR) or United Arab Emirates (close to 5 million EUR).
leather goods
LEATHER GOOD PRODUCTS ARE BOOMING
Portuguese footwear exports reached, in 2013, historical levels. And booming, too, is the Portuguese subsector of leather goods. With an increase in overseas sales of around 39% in 2013, the sector surpassed the target of 113 million EUR, thus beginning to assert itself on the international scene. The growth of 22% in value of leather goods exports to Spain, to 19 million EUR, places the country as one of the priority markets for Portugal. Great emphasis on the provision of exports to France. In 2013, the industry sold over 81% of leather goods to France in the amount of 20 million EUR, making this country the main export destination of leather goods, overtaking Spain. The third most important market for the Portuguese subsector is Angola. In 2013 exports grew 71% reaching 10 million EUR. Also noteworthy is Morocco, which became the fourth most important market, with an expansive growth of 143%, more than 6 million EUR.
14:15
SHOES
WITH
CHARACTER
footwear
C E N T E N Á R I O With over 70 years of existence, Centenário is one of the oldest Portuguese companies, specializing in the production of excellence men’s footwear. At its inception the production was exclusively turned to the domestic market but, in the eighties the company started to focus on the external markets. Today, it exports more than 90% of its production worldwide. In the last decade, it invested in implementing the Goodyear system, particularly with the manufacture of golf footwear. Completly handmade, Centenário shoes are unique and highly sophisticated.
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LUÍS ONOFRE Luís Onofre is part of the third generation of a family devoted to the footwear industry, and has one of the most accomplished Portuguese brands of footwear, established in 1999. Devoted to the manufacture of luxury shoes and handbags, Luís Onofre brand has been gaining recognition abroad, worn by the most illustrious international personalities. Earlier this year, he achieved an old dream and opened his first shop in Avenida da Liberdade, one of Lisbon’s main shopping streets. The designer was recently recognised with the GQ Man of the Year Award in the Fashion category, and the Golden Globe for Best Portuguese Fashion Designer.
photo: frederico martins ASSISTANT: PEDRO SÁ
footwear
E
L
E
N
C
O
The result of passion and dedication of two generations in the field of fine leather goods, Elenco was founded in 1977 by five brothers. Soon they felt the pleasure of seeing their work displayed in stores in Portugal and Europe. After more than three decades of experience, Elenco intends to reach new market segments and has created the “Premium� line for demanding and selective women. The brand launched a footwear line, complementing the existing bags and belts collections.
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CRUZ DE PEDRA Cruz de Pedra, a brand specialised in the manufacture of high-quality shoes for men, is becoming increasingly international. The models are the result of a work done with extreme care, using high quality materials, as well as excellent design. The entire process of designing and producing each piece is rigorously monitored, ensuring strict quality control of the raw materials used, in order to provide the best products for its customers.
footwear
G
I
N
O
-
B
Established in 2009 as part of the Armando Silva group, Gino-B is a brand that has been gaining ground in national and international markets. The best players in the world became great fans of the footwear brand. After famous football players, such as Arjen Robben, it was Cristiano Ronaldo who recently appeared at a public event wearing Gino-B. In four years, the company evolved into a threepronged
concept
that
includes
three
different
collections: après ski sneakers, natural born sneakers and 4 play sneakers.
20-21
J .
R E I N A L D O
Seeking harmony, beauty, quality and comfort are the most important goals of the J. Reinaldo brand. With over 20
years
of
experience,
the
CaritĂŠ
group decided it was time to create its own brand for the high-end segment. The selection and quality of the materials, the design of the pieces and the comfort tests are only some of the carefully executed stages of the manufacture process. Each collection is conceived to adapt to the constant change of each customer’s daily life, in order to create a perfect harmony. The brand launched, very recently, a collection of exclusive footwear for women with style.
footwear
H
E
L
S
A
R
Thanks to the fantastic experience and to the know-how acquired over multiple generations, Helsar reached a dominant position in the sector. Currently producing women’s shoes for the high-end segment, Helsar has been gaining ground internationally. Specialised in hand tailor made shoes, the brand from S. João da Madeira, dresses up several queens and princesses. The company has been developing an approach to international markets and their collections are currently exported to 11 different markets.
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OFFICINA LISBOA Combining bold design and first-class and all-natural materials, Officina Lisboa is a new brand of Portuguese footwear, with an irreverent attitude and a major focus in the manufacture of exclusive premium shoes. Officina Lisboa produces luxury handmade footwear,
always
seeking
a
balance
between the best materials and each season’s fashion trends. Along with its first commitment to women’s footwear, the brand also presented a young and irreverent line of men’s shoes and accessories that blend various materials with different colours.
footwear
SYMBOLS OF PORTUGUESE TRADITION INSPIRES
LAZULI
AND
R UTZ
Tiles, cork and filigree are used as the starting point for the development of collections in which tradition is partnered with modernity. by IlĂdia Pinto
24-25
It has been four years since Portuguese footwear asserted itself as the Sexiest Industry in Europe, associating modern and bold photography to great symbols of national culture: the Portuguese calçada pavement, the cock of Barcelos, the literature, the azulejo (tipycal portuguese tiles), the street lamps, the lovers’ handkerchiefs or the Portuguese guitar. In an increasingly globalised and competitive world, the goal is simple, even if only because “it is our Portuguese identity that distinguishes us from our competitors”.
Since then, several projects were born imbued with this spirit. This is the case of Lazuli, launched by Shoelutions, a company from Santa Maria da Feira that specialises in footwear design. The desire to create their own brand that could leverage the country’s value abroad led it to choose Portuguese azulejo, “a decorative element that eternalises the tradition of Portugal”, as source of inspiration and starting point for its collections. Allying tradition to modernity and history to sophistication, Lazuli’s dominant element is the blue of the semiprecious stone from which it gets its name (lapis lazuli), both as the colour of its soles and in the miniature azulejo logo printed in its insoles. As for the fall/winter 2014-2015 collection, it draws from the Portuguese Discoveries, with lines of Asian, African and American inspiration. More than a brand, Lazuli affirms that its products have their own history and identity, which has greatly pleased the foreign markets. It is present in countries like Saudi Arabia, South Africa, Italy, Switzerland, Romania and the Netherlands. The Discoveries are also the motto for the first men’s collection by Rutz, a brand that invested in cork as differentiating element, in association with other symbols of tradition, such as lovers’ handkerchiefs, Bilros bobbin lace and filigree. The goal has always been to “make women fall in love with the reinvention of cork, introducing colour and design into urban, sexy, youthful and sophisticated footwear”. This is how the most recent models appeared, with new cork colours and textures, namely the so called “animal print”, with python and scale patterns.
Each shoe from its spring/summer collection comes with minuscule filigree “Heart of Viana” pendants. In fall/winter, the choice went to include a small golden plate etched with the “Heart of Viana”. The next season is also going to be marked by the launch of the men’s collection, also in cork, designed by Explorers Collection and in which each model is named after one of the greatest Portuguese explorers, such as (Vasco da) Gama, who discovered the sea route to India; (Pedro Álvares) Cabral, who arrived to Brazil in 1500; and (Fernão de) Magalhães, who was responsible for the first trip of circumnavigation in history. 100% Portuguese, Rutz is internationally renowned in Spain, Brazil, Australia, the Benelux countries, Sweden, Denmark, South Africa, Germany and United States, amongst others.
interview
He is one of the most effervescent Portuguese designers, with one of the longest lists of elite customers and points of sale in over 20 countries. Portuguese Soul sat with footwear designer Luís Onofre for a conversation and learnt that in his future there is no room for missteps. by Manuel Arnaut
LUÍS ONOFRE A MAN AMONGST THE WOMEN
How has the public responded to your store in Avenida da Liberdade, an area so competitive and full of international brands? I am very excited because it exceeded my wildest expectations. The shop opened in February and, up until now, business is booming, especially with Portuguese customers, which really surprises and delights me. In reality, I had been feeling, for a long time, the need to test certain models, to have the possibility of putting the collection as a whole on display, and even to assess our Portuguese customers profile.
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Your shoes are popular for their exuberance, with vertiginous heels and plenty of decorative elements. Could we call you a maximalist designer? I do not consider myself a maximalist at all. Each collection has hundreds of references and most of them are very simple models in terms of finishing or format. The perception of maximalism appears a bit as a consequence of the media’s tendency to highlight the models that are more photogenic and create greater impact on the public. Those models work the image and positioning, but they are not always the ones that sell the most nor the ones that define me as a designer.
You design, single-handedly, about 300 models of shoes a year. Where do you draw inspiration from and what is your method? Inspiration is an important moment in the construction of a collection, but it is not always essential. I have started many collections from a material with which I fell in love: a leather, a heel, a shape. From there, I develop the collection’s theme and its derivations. I usually even feel that, sometimes, the best of a collection comes later, after we have already made several technical production tests and decided on the various details. As for my method, I confess to work in spurts rather than following a strict schedule. Every day, I create a little, and therefore I always keep a notepad and a pen close by, because I am very absent-minded and the rest of the brand’s tasks take up a lot of my time.
There is no doubt that Luís Onofre is one of those men who can make a woman lose her mind... starting with her feet. Owner of an unmistakable aesthetics with no fear of heights, the creator is currently one of the most successful names in Portuguese fashion, with a celebrity clientèle that includes Paris Hilton, Letizia Ortiz, Naomi Watts, Nelly Furtado and Michelle Obama, and a new shop in Avenida da Liberdade, in Lisbon, where he competes on equal terms with brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci.
photo Pedro Granadeiro
Nevertheless, despite the 1.500 pairs of shoes he produces each day leaving no room for questioning whether the creator lives his vocation, that was not always the case. In fact, it was by imposition of his family that he got involved in the traditional factory, which he soon modernised. And did his gambit work? With points of sale in over 20 countries, you do not need to tap your heels together three times to realise: “Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not just talking about a local phenomenon any more...”
Dorothy’s ruby slippers, Cinderella’s glass slipper, the vision the shoe as a symbol of fetishism and power... In your opinion, what is it that gives shoes their aura of mystery? It is very difficult to define a cause, because we are dealing with emotions. The subjective relationship that connects each person to a shoe goes well beyond its function and has evolved over time. The human being is not, nor will ever be immune to beauty or to what is pleasing. Once again, the media have also contributed to the expansion of this emotional language. If women today are crazy about shoes, it is because there was a progressive construction of an idea that we are dealing with an indispensable fashion icon.
What is the greatest challenge in the creation of women’s shoes? Does being a man – rather than a user of the product – make your work easier or more difficult? My greatest challenge is the balance between aesthetics and comfort. Every time I see a woman wearing a shoe with an interesting shape, I ask her if it is comfortable. I do the same to every woman who wears my shoes, because it is in that delicate balance that the true secret of the success of a women’s footwear brand resides. Being a man obviously increases the challenge in terms of ergonomics, but at the same time, the admiration and appeal for the universe of women work as an important creative filtre. When I have a question, I talk to Sandra, my wife, with whom I share the brand and who has a keen eye for judging the success of a specific model.
Your shoes were recently spotted being worn by a number of male Portuguese celebrities, from rugby players to actors and respected doctors, as part of the project “100 Men, No Prejudice – A Step For Equality”, organised by women’s magazine Máxima. How was it to be invited to be a part of this project, and how was it to see your shoes in men’s feet? When Sofia Lucas, the director of Máxima, threw me down this challenge, I was at the same time very excited about the idea and somewhat apprehensive about its materialisation. Excited because it is an excellent initiative, the relevance of which is, unfortunately, quite important. Apprehensive because, in terms of shapes and proportions, it would be one of the greatest technical challenges of my career. Recreating the shape of a stiletto and trying to maintain its proportions in a size 45 was not an easy task. In any case, I hope that the campaign achieves its main objective, which is to alert everyone to the inequalities of being a woman.
interview
From a mere manufacturer of design-less shoes, the Portuguese footwear sector suddenly became more luxurious, with a very modern offer and international acceptance. In your opinion, what were the factors that contributed to this change?
It was precisely that shift in paradigm. We stopped being manufacturers/producers and began investing in the creation of brands with distinct identities and segmentation. There were two factors that contributed to this shift: a new generation is sensitive to design, differentiation and marketing; and the unwavering work developed by APICCAPS to support the repositioning of the sector’s image abroad. Today, there are global campaigns, the brands participate in the most important trade fairs, and there are studies being conducted to identify key investment markets. Portugal will never be able to compete with China in terms of labour cost and end price, but it can already compete with Italy in terms of quality and average price. That is our path and that will be the key to our sector’s success. You have also been including bags and other accessories in your collection. Are they complementary universes, or very different worlds? With Luís Onofre being a brand of accessories specialised in luxury leather goods, I have to invest in the reproduction of its core concept and language in an ever expanding universe of products. It is a common trajectory for any global brand positioned in our segment. It is natural for our customers to want to prolong their preference through an increasingly greater brand experience, and that pushes us towards greater diversity. In reality, they are somewhat distinct creative processes. If I have to choose, I would rather design shoes than bags, just like I prefer to work with leather over fabric, or high heels over mid heels. My collections always begin with the shoes. The other accessories are a complement and appear as a derivation of the basic theme. Do you believe in the perfect match between bags and shoes, or are you a fan of mixing it up? I am a fan of the carefully imperfect; meaning, I prefer the mixture of colours, materials or shapes over rigid matches. Nevertheless, I do not want to establish an absolute rule, it will depend on each personality, on the occasion and on the overall look. With a brand present in almost the whole world and an ever expanding line of products, how do you see the next 10 years of your brand? Are men’s shoes on the horizon, for example? At the moment, more than expanding a collection that is already very large, my main objective is to strengthen the international position of the Luís Onofre brand. I want to integrate it in new markets and define new point of sale formats with representatives, based on franchising models created in the image of the Avenida da Liberdade shop. Dubai and Angola are possibilities that are being studied! As for men shoes, it does not excite the same way. In terms of workmanship, men shoes require a very specific manufacture technique that is hard to implement. To this adds the fact that men are not great buyers of shoes. They wait for the sales season and buy several pairs at a time. They are less worried with their appearance, not that emotional and somewhat conservative.
28-29
12-14 Sep. 2014 ONLY PROFESSIONALS
Coinciding with:
BLACK BEAUTY photo: frederico martins STYLING: FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA
30-31
Coat - HUGO COSTA
32-33
Shoes - BASILIUS by PEDRO PEDRO Jacket and dress - PEDRO PEDRO
Shoes - VALUNI Coat and trousers - MAFALDA FONSECA 34-35
Coat - HUGO COSTA Ring - Stylists studio
Shoes - LEMON JELLY Dress - PEDRO PEDRO Sweatshirt - MAFALDA FONSECA Necklace - FREEDOM at TOPSHOP
36-37
Shoes - CENTENARIO Sweatshirt and trousers - MAFALDA FONSECA Ring Stylists studio
Dress - PEDRO PEDRO Necklace Stylists studio
38-39
Boots - CUBANAS Coat - HUGO COSTA Tights - CALZEDONIA Rings Stylists studio
Ankle boots - JJ HEITOR Bustier,pants and coat - NUNO BALTAZAR Necklace - FREEDOM at TOPSHOP Hairband - Stylists studio
40-41
Shoes - CRUZ DE PEDRA Coat - HUGO COSTA Leggings - Stylists studio
Sunglasses - MYKITA + MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Backpack - HUGO COSTA Trousers - MAFALDA FONSECA Bracelet - Stylists sudio 42-43
Shoes - SILVIA REBATTO Dress and vest - LUIS BUCHINHO Bracelets - Stylists studio
Ankle boots - APPLE OF EDEN Top and shorts - SAYMYNAME Gloves and necklace - Stylists studio 44-45
Shoes - NOBRAND Dress and coat - LUIS BUCHINHO Bracelets - Stylists studio 46-47
Vest - LUIS BUCHINHO
48-49
Shoes - EXCEED Top, bomber jacket, shorts and trousers - HUGO COSTA
production PAULO GONÇALVES 'APICCAPS' AND HELENA SILVA 'SNOWBERRY' make up ATELIER PATRÍCIA LIMA hair RUI ROCHA with senscience Shiseido photography assistant PEDRO SÁ styling assistant NELSON LIMA production assistant CLÁUDIA PINTO models JOANA OGURA 'WE ARE MODELS', KEVIN SAMPAIO 'CENTRAL MODELS' AND HELENE HAMMAR "L'AGENCE" RETOUCHING LALALANDSTUDIOS
50-51
Boots - FLY LONDON Dress and vest - LUIS BUCHINHO Sunglasses - MYKITA + MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Bracelets - Stylists studio
people
As a child, she dreamt of being an actress. At age 14, the first invitations to enter the world of fashion started to appear. But it was only after she turned 17 that she decided to accept a proposal that changed her life.
52-53
photo Frederico Martins
GOLDEN STAR
Today, she is one of the most renowned models in the world. Only 23 years old, Angolan/Portuguese Sharam Diniz has been carving out her space in the world of fashion. She collects covers and campaigns and is the face of some of the most prestigious international brands. Her résumé already includes work for 7 For All Mankind, H&M, Meissen and, more recently, Chanel. She is frequently seen on the catwalks of international fashion weeks and she was the first Angolan on the cover of Vogue. 2012 was a decisive year in the model’s career, with her participation in the Victoria’s Secret show, becoming the first Angolan/Portuguese Angel of the renowned brand of lingerie. Working with names like Alessandra Ambrósio and Adriana Lima, Sharam Diniz saw the catwalk show as the turning point of her career. Recognised internationally, the model was honoured in Portugal with the Golden Globe for best female model in 2013.
by Cláudia Pinto
Sharam, 2013 really was your year! How did this adventure in the world of fashion begin? I started at 17, although invitations had started to appear since I was 14 years old. At the time, I was living in Luanda and entered a competition promoted by my Angolan agency, STEP. I won the competition in 2008 and got automatically signed to L’Agence – my main agency in Portugal. In late 2012, you were chosen as a Victoria’s Secret Angel. Was it a turning point in your career? Undoubtedly. It was not only a turning point, because it brought more work and more recognition at national and international level, but a point of personal pride, because it was a job that I held as a goal since the start of my career - being one of the Angels, next to names like Alessandra Ambrósio, Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel, who is also from Southern Africa. Being there and being able to represent, not only Angola, but also Portugal, was a grace of God. In addition to your international recognition, in 2013 you were awarded the Golden Globe for best female model. How was is to also receive that recognition in Portugal? I was honestly not expecting it. I was up against Milena Cardoso, Ana Sofia and Sara Sampaio, who are all excellent models, with longer careers than me, and they are people that I have always held as examples to follow. The Globe was, therefore, a very pleasant surprise. It was very exciting. All the people in the audience could see that it was a great thrill. But, as you said, receiving national and international recognition is very good. And it also gives us motivation to do more and to be better, to set an example for those who want to follow in our footsteps.
You are currently part of a new generation of African models who have moved to New York: Fernando Cabral, Armando Cabral, Maria Borges. How do you see this rise of African models working in New York? I think it is excellent. I think that New York is the ideal market for black models. It is a large and very diverse market. Racism exists everywhere, but we feel like there are fewer problems with skin tone over there: everyone gets work. In that regard, it is good for us, as black people, to be in New York. And because of that rise that we have been witnessing, other markets, like the European, are starting to see us differently and to seek us for work. In the future... what work is still on your to do list? Plenty of them. I am very demanding. Every time I achieve something, I am always thinking about going further. I want to be an independent woman, to set an example and to be a reference for young people and other women who want to be models. I want them to regard me not only for the professional aspect, but also as a person. I will probably try to get into dramatic arts, because it has been my dream since I was 6 years old. But, deep down, I want to be happy.
catwalk
FASHION AUTHOR IN THE FIRST PERSON by Catarina Vasques Rito
ModaLisboa Vision returned once again to Pátio da Galé, in Lisbon, to present the 2nd edition of Sangue Novo, its platform for the new generation, which put on display the creative quality of the young designers.
54-55
ModaLisboa once again showed the most visionary side of Portuguese fashion, presenting an edition filled with creative talent and commercialisation concepts. photo Arlindo Camacho
Over 42 editions, this event has been able to leverage and promote the most interesting of what is made in Portugal, encouraging designers and brands to never give up on their projects, adjusting their proposals to new markets and new consumers.
The growing synergy between fashion author and the footwear industry strengthened the idea that they can work together without either of them compromising the final image of their collections, solidifying a potential business strategy with international ambitions.
17 shows, one of which devoted to the next generation of national fashion – Sangue Novo – and another by Polish designer Łukasz Jemioł, invited by the organisation of ModaLisboa, demonstrated that the aesthetic approaches are increasingly better defended, both in terms of quality of the manufacture and in terms of the finishings. “Sangue Novo is a platform whose goal is to discover new talents for Portuguese fashion. The appearance of new brands is an assurance of the Portuguese fashion industry’s development. Sangue Novo
discovers, Lab coaches, and the main catwalk confirms,” explains Eduarda Abbondanza, ModaLisboa’s general coordinator, to Portuguese Soul, stressing the fact that this space is open to all Portuguese finalyear students of fashion design courses in national and international schools, as well as to young designers who have already finished their training and are “in the process of starting their brands.” It is obvious that, in almost twenty proposals, not all of them can be at the top level. Nevertheless, considering that most Portuguese designers receive no support from the State or from Europe to provide sustainability to their brands, their effort is commendable, as it is their perseverance in not giving up a dream of commercial success and expansion.
catwalk
NUNO GAMA
photos ModaLisboa
LUÍS BUCHINHO
FILIPE FAÍSCA
RICARDO PRETO
The best collections were presented by Filipe Faísca – who returned this edition with a line for men – Ricardo Preto, Nuno Gama, Miguel Vieira and Luís Buchinho; they all had in common a reflection on the 2014-2015 fall/winter season, ranging between conceptual fashion author and commercial designer fashion. The association between these two sides, sometimes in the same collection, others in different projects, shows that the DNA of Portuguese fashion has a very distinct and unique aesthetics, simultaneously differentiating and universal, appealing to publics who seek a style that is very intimate and uncommon in mass production. Vision welcomed fashion journalists, anonymous consumers and industry professionals, eager to meet and/or accompany the entrepreneurship of ideas, techniques and concepts of an industry that is clearly on the rise.
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FILIPE FAÍSCA
RICARDO PRETO
It is worth noting the growing number of partnerships between designers and Portuguese footwear brands, creating global-interest synergies, in which clothing and footwear are the winners, thanks to the combination of styles and concepts, without ignoring each collection’s design and raw materials. Ricardo Preto’s partnership with Clay’s, Alexandra Moura’s with Goldmud, Luís Buchinho’s with Helsar, or Nuno Gama’s with Eureka are examples of these partnerships. In Filipe Faísca’s case, the partnership with French designer Christian Louboutin, done at a different level, has been a success for several years.
LUÍS BUCHINHO
But ModaLisboa does not end with the catwalk shows. There is also room and interest in providing some moments of fashion culture with the Fast Talks About Fashion, small conferences about the sector whose guest speakers are professionals connected to the various areas that comprise the national and international industry.
catwalk
LUÍS BUCHINHO
photos PortugalFashion
by Inês Soares
Between the 27th and the 29th of March, Alfândega do Porto Congress Centre opened its gates into a long blue corridor that stretched towards the 34th edition of Portugal Fashion. After the opening day in Lisbon, on the 26th, having featured shows by Storytailors, Alves/Gonçalves and João Melo Costa, it was Porto’s turn to drape itself on glitter and colour to welcome the proposals of national designers and clothing brands for the next fall/winter season. 58-59
While waiting for warmer and brighter days, we saw natural and technological fabrics and structured cuts that bring back the bespoke inspiration. Traditional tailoring, increasingly present in daily life, sends us back to past times when the quality of the manufacture and the subtlety of the detail made all the difference, representing the sign of Portuguese know-how throughout several generation. While Lisbon asserts its multiculturalism and fashion sense, Porto invests in elegance, class and sophistication with touch of irreverence and underground. We showed that we want to be reborn from the ashes and reflect on our own image, surmounting obstacles and asserting our identity. Over its 28 catwalk shows (22 creators and 17 brands, including 6 of footwear), Portugal Fashion demonstrated, through excellent organisation, its capacity to do more and to do better, in a pleasant surprise.
TURN THE SPOTLIGHTS ON. THE SHOW IS ABOUT TO BEGIN...
Júlio Torcato presented a men’s collection inspired in retro uniforms and in decadent aristocratic luxury, while Luís Buchinho got sighs from the women in the audience with structured dresses/trench coats (true objects of desire!) matched with beautiful Helsar shoes.
Daniela Barros, one of the most famous young designers of today, drew inspiration from historical women warriors, proposing a strong and austere but very cool silhouette that is sure to be a success amongst fans of street wear.
Hugo Costa followed (excelling also in the world of footwear) with a very practical and appealing men’s collection. And the night ended with Anabela Baldaque’s “4 horas antes” (“4 hours earlier”). Wide and feminine silhouettes that interpret motions of freedom.
katty shiomara
HUGO COSTA
STORYTAILORS
catwalk
DIOGO MIRANDA
The following day, Bloom was the stage where Carla Pontes, Mafalda Fonseca and Carlos Couto shone with interesting and creative aesthetic approaches to clothing.
Katty Xiomara, one of most expected names, presented a simple and purified collection, in which urban elements were interpreted in a graphic, feminine and elegant manner. Diogo Miranda, who in recent years has been asserting himself as one of the most relevant names in Portuguese fashion, assumes his creative identity as the result of a path between heritage and apprenticeship. The personality and strength of women are represented here through structured fabrics in contrast to light and fluid materials, juxtaposing the feminine and delicate silhouette of the 1950s and the multi-functionality required by today. The highlights were the fantastic oversized coats. TM Collection by Teresa Martins presented “Alma Mater.” Inspired in the imagery of Portuguese folk tradition, it used traditional motifs of azulejo (glazed tiles) and filigree, which were present in prints and embroideries. Fátima Lopes closed this day with “Ad Naturam,” inspired by nature and its colours, shapes and materials. The female silhouette appears sublimated and protected by solid, rigid pieces that offer new volumes. Wool, cashmere or tartan play off the lightness and transparency of the muslin and the voile.
The last day of the event began, as usual, with the collective catwalk show of industry brands, which was followed by the presentation of footwear proposals by DKODE, FLY London, Goldmund and Alexandra Moura, J. Reinaldo, Nobrand and Sílvia Rebatto.
In individual show mode, the brands Vicri, Meam by Ricardo Preto, Dielmar and Lion of Porches (now under the creative direction of Júlio Torcato) were welcomed with great expectation and enthusiasm. At the Bloom space, we could witness the youthful and irreverent proposals of Teresa Abrunhosa, Cláudia Garrido, Joana Ferreira and K L A R, while the sophistication of Carlos Gil, Luís Onofre and Miguel Vieira shone on the main catwalk. Carlos Gil interpreted a “Birds Waltz” through ultra-feminine silhouettes where metallic tones combined with feathers and furs.
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For the 2014-2015 fall/winter season, Luís Onofre wants to provoke a “storm of emotions” through cross-cutting proposals for a wider audience. Boots, ankle boots, shoes, sandals, bags and clutches, designed to please more mature women as well as the younger generations, will be the ideal choice for daughters who want to imitate their mothers’ style. Portugal Fashion said goodbye, until the next season, with “A Winter’s Night” by Miguel Vieira, with the cold of the northern hemisphere, the rain and the endless nights providing the inspiration. Beauty, distinction, elegance and seduction power were the motto for a clean and purified look, with tubular shapes and marked waistlines, in pieces inspired in dinner jacket, with turtle necks, oversized, and loose shoulders in wool and jacquard.
FÁTIMA LOPES
OBS ESS ION photo: frederico martins STYLING: FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA
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Suspenders - INTIMISSIMI Necklace and Scarf - Stylists studio
Bolero - DIOGO MIRANDA Shoes - LUIS ONOFRE Underwear - TOPSHOP
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Bra - INTIMISSIMI Boots - LUIS ONOFRE Necklace - Stylists studio
Top - H&M Rings - ARISTOCRAZY
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Pants - DIOGO MIRANDA Suspenders - INTIMISSIMI Necklace, scarf and belt - Stylists studio
Dress - DIOGO MIRANDA Shoes - LUIS ONOFRE Rings - ARISTOCRAZY 68-69
Vest - DIOGO MIRANDA Boots - LUÍS ONOFRE Bracelet - FREEDOM at TOPSHOP
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Vest - DIOGO MIRANDA Rings - ARISTOCRAZY Belt - Stylists studio
production PAULO GONÇALVES 'APICCAPS' AND HELENA SILVA 'SNOWBERRY' make up ATELIER PATRÍCIA LIMA hair RUI ROCHA with senscience Shiseido photography assistant PEDRO SÁ styling assistant NELSON LIMA production assistant CLÁUDIA PINTO models DARIIA MAKAROVA 'WE ARE MODELS' RETOUCHING LALALANDSTUDIOS
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Jacket - DIOGO MIRANDA Sandals - LUÍS ONOFRE Suspenders - INTIMISSIMI Ring - ARISTOCRAZY
NEW TALENTS
THE FUTURE OF PORTUGUESE FASHION by Inês Soares
In the 1990s, two events appeared in Portugal that indelibly marked the entire course and dynamics of national fashion, rapidly becoming the most important and most widely covered platforms for the promotion of trends, designers and creators: ModaLisboa, in 1991, and Portugal Fashion, in 1995. Many of the names who since then became a reference for the public and for fashion in general maintained and asserted their status throughout the last 20 years, with coherence and credibility, winning over new customers and followers. Others inevitably ended up disappearing. Schools, however, continue to train new professionals for the textile industry, adding talent and creativity to its brands. 74-75
But where is designer fashion? What is the future of the new talents, of the budding designers who dream about, someday, integrating the country’s most important displays/events? Over the years, several platforms gave voice and colour to this concept. Because we need fresh ideas, fresh visions of contemporaneity, revised readings of the taste flows that the streets silently transmit us… The new generations are not just seeking the elegance and sophistication of the past, but rather new forms of identification, of self-affirmation as action-oriented individuals, new dynamics for communicating their personalities and their lifestyles.
Fashion “that is wearable” and that is used “on the streets” speaks louder, gets away from the parties, ceremonies and receptions and takes hold of a part of everyday life to what was always rightfully its own. ModaLisboa was a pioneer when it first launched Sangue Novo (where names like Katty Xiomara appeared). The competition, that was kept in stand by for 10 years, returns now with a renewed image and renovated driving force. Nevertheless, through LAB (an alternative catwalk with a different format), ModaLisboa never stopped fulfilling the role it then took upon itself. Names like Nomes como White Tent, a forest design, Ricardo Andrez, V!tor, os Burgueses, amongst so many other participants, earned their place in the sun and the opportunity to show their lab projects – the results of more or less conceptual creative research – to the country and to an important cross-section of the best international fashion media outlets. On the other hand, Portugal Fashion, led by Miguel Flor, began coordinating the initiative that has been the greatest driving force for new designers in the north of the country: the BLOOM platform.
photos Telma Russo In addition to the individual and collective catwalk shows, the seasonal BLOOM Pop Up Store, in Porto, has contributed decisively to rescue from anonymity names that have been asserting themselves with growing strength in international markets, with awards won and their value proven within and beyond borders, such as Hugo Costa, Daniela Barros, Andreia Fonseca, Susana Bettencourt, Carla Pontes, amongst many others. Many of these “New Talents” ensure their presence on BLOOM’s catwalk through AcrobActic (also held in Porto), which appeared in 2005 as a competition, after the disappearance of “Porto de Moda” (responsible, over its eight years, for boosting the career of many Portuguese creators). Recently-graduated fashion designers, representing various schools from the entire country, compete amongst themselves for the titles of best male look, the best female look and the best collection, the cash prize of which is intended as an incentive and an investment in the creation of future works, as well as a gateway to Portugal Fashion. “Clearing the way and forging new paths for national fashion design” has been its motto and its primordial objective.
All these initiatives – Sangue Novo, Lab, Bloom and AcrobActic – have been of the utmost importance, gradually capturing the attention of the press, the industry and the general public, and have often been the starting point for the construction of new projects and careers that constitute the present of national fashion and which will continue, throughout their paths, telling the history of fashion in Portugal.
WILD THING photo: frederico martins STYLING: FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA
Clothing: NUNO GAMA Footwear: EUREKA by NUNO GAMA Jewelery: ARISTOCRAZY
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catwalk
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production PAULO GONÇALVES 'APICCAPS' AND HELENA SILVA 'SNOWBERRY' make up ATELIER PATRÍCIA LIMA hair RUI ROCHA with senscience Shiseido photography assistant PEDRO SÁ styling assistant NELSON LIMA production assistant CLÁUDIA PINTO models FREDERICO VENTURA 'JUST MODELS', GONÇALO PINTO 'WE ARE MODELS' AND TIAGO LOBO 'WE ARE MODELS' RETOUCHING LALALANDSTUDIOS
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young designers
THE REBIRTH OF CRAFTMANSHIP by Carlos TomĂŠ Sousa
A nation once fascinated mostly by trends from abroad, by what could only be found in stores in England, Germany, France or the US is now experiencing a true return to its roots and is currently on the lookout for tradition and reinvented craftsmanship. Out of a sudden, or not as suddenly as that, new shops now offer a clever combination of modern design and traditional handicraft. In every big or middlesized city in the country new stores open offering the best of the region or the country. Whereas before only traditional arts and crafts were on offer we now get to see clever reinterpretations. 90-91
A fine example of this is Pelcor, a brand formed under the umbrella of a major cork producer from the Algarve and that, after coming out with a clever mix of leather and cork, producing all kinds of items from purses to umbrellas through hats and puffs, decided to go further and to bet on the fashion and trendy market. The result is there. Brighter colours, new It products and a greater international reach, from Lisbon to New York.
Portugal is currently witnessing a true back to basics approach to the production of goods, a recipe which is proving highly rewarding. The results are there. The story is here…in this edition of Portuguese Soul where we tell the tale of four successful brands.
Another example of quality and recognition is Ideal & Co. “a 100% Portuguese brand, whose aim is, through its collections, to reinterpret, preserve and share the beauty of what is genuine and Made in Portugal”, reads the company description. Carefully crafted backpacks in tanned leather are the star product of this brand whose range of products comprises also messenger bags, wallets, cases and amazing leather tubes to carry your drawings and projects. Born out of a company formed in 1935 and whose founder began as a leather merchant, having later founded a tanning company, in 1956, Ideal & Co uses the legacy of the company and began operating in 2012 under this name and in two years alone has been able to catch the eye of niche markets and consumers, having been spotted also by trend hunters Monocle who praised the quality and design of the brand in one of its issues.
The two aforementioned brands are just two examples of companies who have cleverly reinvented from its legacy, using the products mastered by their parent companies. Further examples abound and one of the best ways to see for yourself the wealth of new manufacturers with a new approach is to visit Embaixada. Located in the hype neighborhood of Principe Real, this small two-storeys shopping mall now caters for the needs of Portuguese and foreign consumers looking for traditional products with a pinch. Linkstore, on the ground floor of this old palace is a good place to start. And if it is shoes you are looking for,
These are just four random examples of a highly successful reinvention of the shoe and accessories sectors, brands that have made it and that prove Portugal’s foothold in national and international markets as producer catering for both mass and niche markets.
Bernardo is the brand to look after. Made in the Oporto region, Bernardo M42 shoes and boots are made with manual techniques and the end result are robust and elegant shoes in natural leather for a distinguished yet relaxed look you can easily take for a night out or combine with an elegant suit at the office. One storey up, Land Collection, a brand part of a local venture under the name Fábrica do Empresário and joining a number of companies is a further example of a reinvention gone right. Check the bright red colour applied to traditional workmen’s boots that have made it to the Louvre museum store in Paris or the elegant and smooth cork buckle shoes with tones of grey and blue.
FEET ON THE AIR HEAD ON THE GROUND photo: CARMO AMORIM STYLING: HUGO COSTA MAKE UP: daniela reis 92-93
SNEAKERS - HUGO COSTA TROUSERS - HUGO COSTA
SHOES - XPERIMENTAL SHOES SKIRT - DANIELA BARROS 94-95
SHOES - OLGA NORONHA SKIRT - DANIELA BARROS
SHOES - OFFICINA LISBOA SHORTS AND SHIRT - HUGO COSTA SOCKS - CALZEDONIA
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SHOES - RUTZ VEST - DANIELA BARROS
production make up production assistant models
PAULO GONÇALVES 'APICCAPS' DANIELA REIS CLÁUDIA PINTO CAMERON DAY 'BEST MODELS' KLÁUDIA KOVAC 'BEST MODELS'
BOOTS - SENHOR PRUDÊNCIO SHIRT - HUGO COSTA 98-99
SHOES - COMMON CUT
people
HÉLIO BERNARDINO
He is one of the men of the hour in Portuguese fashion. Trained as an architect, he quickly entered the world of fashion in Portugal. He soon began working at L’Agence and, shortly after, founded Táxi Models. But it was at Elite Portugal, in 2001, that he strengthened his career as a booker. In 2010, he founded Loft Models, now Elite Lisbon, integrated in the world’s largest network of agencies. He is the owner and director of the agency, and also manages the career of some public figures, such as actors, renowned models and other celebrities. Every year, the agency organises Elite Moda Look Portugal, a nationwide competition that serves as a platform for young talents. The contest also provides an opportunity for the winners to get their international careers started. It is also an opportunity to receive training from some of the most distinguished models in the field and to enter beauty competitions at international level. Currently, 100-101
Hélio is combining his passion for fashion with a new project. Conversas comigo? is a blog of interviews and talks with all sorts of people who are a part of the life of the Elite Lisbon’s director. Between acquaintances, friends, trend-setters and public figures, Hélio believes this will be an opportunity to tell plenty of stories.
people
We asked Carlos Santos, Ricardo Preto, Jonathan Sampaio, Manuel Teixeira and Jorge Corrula if they are fashion aficionados, if they follow the trends, if they take special care with their image. For decades, men worried little with their image, a fact that is now changing, contributing to grab the attention of trend-setters, brands and designers.
ARE PORTUGUESE MEN IN FASHION? Mr Shoe
text by Catarina Vasques Rito photos by Pedro Granadeiro
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Carlos Santos is the master of men’s footwear and is considered one of the top five manufacturers in the world. His grey hair contrasts with eyes of a deep sky blue, accompanied by a melodious voice and contagious congeniality. The classical uncompromised style favours his image, and he never goes without the denim trousers, the white shirt, the cotton or linen suit jacket and the scarf – “It is one of my favourite accessories, because I like the end result and it gives a splash of colour,” he says. He likes fashion and follows the trends, “but I do not let myself be influenced by them. I am, above all, a man who needs and enjoys comfort and I dress in a manner conducive to that end,” explains Carlos Santos, owner of Zarco. The changes in the male public towards fashion have been great in the past 15 years; nevertheless, Carlos Santos thinks that men’s fashion can evolve even more and “adopt a more daring attitude without falling into excess, as I often see happening.”
He never smoked, avoids distilled drinks, but enjoys a good wine and has practised regular exercise for several years. “I take pleasure from taking care of myself, but I am not a victim of my image.” His critic side drives him to follow the collections that national and international brands regularly present to the world of footwear and fashion in general – clothing, accessories, beauty – because he considers important to be up to date with what others are doing in order to define his own brand’s guidelines. “Staying informed of what is happening in the sector is essential and helps to improve our own work,” he points out.
Born in Azeitão, Ricardo Preto takes on the creative direction of two brands of women’s clothing: the first one, under his own name, with a more sophisticated aesthetic approach; the second, Meam by Ricardo Preto, more relaxed and urban. “I am a man who values comfort, as part of my everyday life, which leads me to dress in a simple and practical manner, but whenever necessary, I take on a more elegant image,” he explains. Perfume plays an essential role in his life, one of the few rituals before leaving home.
The designer
He also tries to be “always in a good mood” to minimise the daily bustle between the studio in Lisbon, the factories in the North of Portugal with whom he works to produce the collections for both brands, the visits to international trade fairs and the catwalk shows at ModaLisboa, Portugal Fashion and abroad. With an easy smile and a sweetness in his eyes, Ricardo Preto has been investing in projecting his work, expanding its presence in multi-brand (Loja das Meias, ComCor) and singlebrand stores (21pr Concept.Store, at Príncipe Real, in Lisbon). He recognises that Portuguese men are increasingly attentive to the dictates of fashion, despite a continued indifference to image as a whole. Occupational hazard or not, the designer accompanies the various women’s and men’s fashion weeks. “I miss designing men’s clothes, but it is not the right time for it yet. Being aware of the trends is essential when you are in this line of work, on the one hand to understand what fashion-makers dictate, and on the other to draw some inspiration. It is a matter of professionalism.”
Fashion attitude
Jonathan Sampaio is one of the names of reference of Portuguese fashion both within and outside Portugal, due to his remarkable modelling career. The simplicity of his way of being is reflected on his daily image, preferring “practical and comfortable clothing,” despite often having to take on a more classic style, “depending on the occasion.” He has been witnessing a gradual change in Portuguese men with regard to fashion, a fact that pleases him because of the frank demonstration of interest “in this area and also the growing concern with how they present themselves to the world.” Taking care of his body is part of the model’s daily rituals, not only due to the demands inherent to his occupation, but also because he feels “genuine pleasure in doing it”. Each day, he moisturises the skin of his face and body, exercises and takes care with what he eats, without “fanaticisms, because life must be lived with pleasure.” Handsome and friendly, Jonathan Sampaio confesses to follow the trends but avoids holding himself hostage of the frenzy that the sector often forces upon him. “When I have time, I attend the catwalk shows for men’s collections, because I like to know what are the designers’ proposals for the following seasons.” He has already walked the catwalks with some of the most important names of international fashion and, “whenever possible, I walk Portuguese catwalks for the pleasure of being in Portugal” and to help promote Portuguese fashion.
ActoR's attitude
Jorge Corrula is a man of simple tastes, with special attention to details. “I never leave home without my sunglasses, wristwatch and hat,” he confesses. Denim trousers, t-shirts or collarless shirts are his choices for his everyday routine, only changed for occasions that demand a “dress code” – although he never forgoes his trainers even when wearing a suit. Discrete, with a wide smile and a penetrating gaze, Jorge Corrula is not a “fashion victim,” but he likes to stay abreast of the latest trends, regularly paying attention to the catwalk shows of women’s and men’s collections. Each show is seen as “if it were a theatre performance” and, in each of them, the actor tries to understand what are its creative influences, its dynamics and its choreography which, in women’s collections are “more stimulating” than men’s, “usually more monotonous.” Sports have been a part of his life since very early – he was a federated athlete – and he likes to be in good shape without exaggeration, as he sees happening to “actors from younger generations who, in order to achieve chiselled bodies, end up using methods that aren’t healthy.”
He notices a growing attention to the trends by this generation, but “the public in general ends up assimilating this taste through the image of their footballing idols. Being in fashion and enjoying fashion are matters of personal taste, not of financial capacity. Having money can help you buy from specific brands, but knowing how to dress well without being ostentatious is an art form,” points out Jorge Corrula, who champions the motto “less is more.”
Manuel Teixeira grew up within a family of entrepreneurs, studied business management and lives in a world that requires a conservative image, poorly-suited to bold style statements. “I confess that I have an image that reflects the business surroundings where I work, and I am aware that I have always had this image because of my family’s influence and their connection to the world of business and corporations,” he says. But the roles he performs – both at the National Association of Young Entrepreneurs [ANJE], where he is the President of the Executive Commission; and at Portugal Fashion, which is organised by ANJE, and where he is a member of the National Directorate – have been forcing Manuel Teixeira to “evolve to more informal and casual choices.” He pays attention to the changes in the younger generations of men, “cosmopolitan and global,” fearless on the face of “traditional canons and open to new styles and differentiating proposals,” as well as to the changes in style of some men of his own generation and even older – “demonstrated by the public that attends Portugal Fashion, which includes buyers, press and more institutional guests,” he explains. His concern with image makes him exercise regularly, favouring competitive sports such as football. “I have a real passion for sports since I was very young, and I try to remain faithful to that pleasure because it is good for my health and helps me maintain in good physical condition.”
His obligations to ANJE and to Portugal Fashion drive him to be more attentive to the trends, regularly attending the catwalk shows of the most important national and international fashion weeks, to understand the different creative languages of current and future generations and to learn how the back-end of a fashion event work: the catwalk, the shows, the lighting, the casting, the collections. “I like to see the shows regardless of the target market of the collections and to pay attention to fashion industry as a whole,” he points out.
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people
TALENT WITHOUT BORDERS From South Africa to London, with effort and dedication, a make-up artist, a designer and a public relations manager score points in the world of fashion. by Manuel Arnaut
When, in 2004, she arrived in Cuamba, a rural town in the Niassa Province, literally in the middle of Mozambique’s jungle, she hired a tailor and, from her porch, she founded Ideias a Metro, a brand that gave new life to the capulana fabric. Today, without formal training in fashion, she sells to Europe, United States and South America, designs the uniforms for the luxurious Hotel Polana and presents her collections at the Mozambique Fashion Week. She is currently living in South Africa and is preparing to launch a new brand.
Carla Pinto Johannesburg
How was Ideias a Metro born? When I arrived in Mozambique, in 2003, I fell in love with African fabrics. I would look around me and see the potential of these unique materials, full of charisma and history. I started to think that, like me, many women would love to wear them, and I decided to run a test. While I was still working in Maputo, I began creating some pieces for myself, made by local tailors. A year and a half later, I left my job in Maputo, headed north and established the company.
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Were you expecting the type of reaction it produced? Sometimes, I look back and I cannot even believe it. Since we began, eight years ago, we never stopped growing. I started with one tailor and a blog through which I sold handmade, one-ofa-kind pieces for customers in Portugal. Shortly after, I was already working with four tailors. The blog turned into a website and I began selling worldwide. After that, it was inevitable, and I decided to transfer the entire production to Maputo to become more competitive. What were the main difficulties that you encountered? In a studio with only six tailors and seamstresses, the production is limited. But we want to stay that way, true to the brand’s initial concept. In 2008, the Ministry of Commerce and Industry of Mozambique awarded us a seal of approval, which we have been using ever since: “Made in Mozambique – Proudly Mozambican.” We are a Mozambican clothing brand, using only local materials and local labour to produce unique pieces. We ended up transforming what seemed like a weak spot – small-scale production – into a competitive edge.
Since you are currently living in South Africa, and having also lived in the United States, how do you manage your business at a distance? Precisely because it is not easy, I found a partner who made it possible, over the years, for the business to never slow down. The issue of distance is a false problem for us. In 2012, during the Mozambique Fashion Week, I was in the United States, had just given birth to my daughter, and there was a seven-hour time difference. I sent the collection’s diagrams to Maputo and, through Skype, was able to have meetings with the technical team whenever necessary. What will be your next steps, professionally? Fortunately, I ended up in the right country to expand Ideias a Metro, and I had been wanting to open a branch is South Africa for a long time. In parallel to that, and very shortly, we are going to launch a new brand, “Made in South Africa – African Style Story”! In this concept, we will maintain the patters of African inspiration but, this time, they will be conceived and developed by us, in a more sophisticated manner. We will provide an exclusive, more up-scale product.
Anne Sophie Costa London
She currently lives in London, where, at age 28, she collaborates with Tom Ford and Harper’s Bazaar. Before arriving in London, how was your career path in Portugal? I was very lucky. As soon as I completed my studies, I worked a lot and there were plenty of people who believed in me. I think that, in two and a half years, I had the career path of someone who worked for five, and collaborated with magazines like Máxima, GQ, Cosmopolitan, Lux Woman, Parq, N’Style, Must, Magnética, Edit... I also did make-up for Ídolos and for Project Runway. What made you move to London? Since I was 12, I knew that I wanted to leave Portugal. I never felt Portuguese, perhaps because I lived in Spain for many years. In one of my trips to London, I was shopping for make-up products at Selfridges, when I met a make-up artist who told me that he loved my look and asked if I wanted to be his assistant during the Fashion Week. At the time I did not believe it, until I sent him an email message and received his reply. I ended up doing three shows and magazine productions. I loved it! When I returned to Portugal, I felt depressed and that was when I made the decision to move, that it would only be a matter of time. How was your integration in the city? The first year is the dream! You love the city and you still have money saved in Portugal. The second year is misery and the city is a monster. I started to doubt whether I could, in fact, survive, because it is very difficult to compete against so many exceptional make-up artists. What were the most exciting works you did? The most exciting works, until know, were all done as an assistant. I did a production for Harper’s Bazaar with Lara Stone, Maria Carla Boscono, Linda Evangelista and Claudia Schiffer. Claudia Schiffer is a sweetheart and said goodbye to everyone with two kisses. I loved it. That same day, they wanted to do a lighting test and dressed me with Chanel from head to toe! It was very extravagant... I have also been assisting in the most recent Tom Ford campaigns. It is surreal to be on the same set as Tom Ford and Carine Roitfeld.
What are the pros and cons of living in London? It is a working city, where there is no quality of life. Additionally, over the last couple of years, the city became packed full of people. I am starting to feel a little claustrophobic in public places with a long of people. But at the end of the day, I am happy because I worked with a certain client, photographer or stylist. It is very rewarding. What are your main references in the world of fashion? Pat McGrath, Val Garland, Isamaya Ffrench, Topolino... How would you describe your style of makeup? I use a lot of cream products: I really like the natural texture when they are applied to the skin, giving it a lighted and healthy look. I think that my style is elegant, classic and contemporary. What are your next projects? I think that I will stay a few more years in London. However, I hope to start to building the bridge to New York soon. Working in London and New York would be ideal.
fashion
Anne Amorim Paris
Daughter of Portuguese parents, she works as PR Manager for Zadig & Voltaire, a French brand with a legion of celebrity fans, such as Sarah Jessica Parker and Alessandra Ambrósio.
How is your day-to-day work routine? I am in contact with French and international press and I participate in the development of campaigns and events. I’m also responsible for media relations in the USA, United Kingdom, Italy and Spain. We have more than 300 points of sale! There are a lot of people with whom to communicate. What is your connection to Portugal? I was born in France, I am of Portuguese descent. My parents came to the country when they were 21, as political refugees. At that time, as many other immigrants, they came to Paris to work and to escape the dictatorship. What are your earliest fashion-related memories? I always loved fashion. When I was a little girl, I was my mother’s and my sister’s doll. I always wore the latest trends, even when I was six. Additionally, we used to go, every Saturday, to the Galeries Lafayette, where we would spend hours, and I read magazines like Elle, Vogue, etc. When did you decide that fashion would be your profession? That click happened when I did an internship at Christian Lacroix, an unforgettable experience. I also did various internships at brands like Hermès and Thierry Mugler, which made me want to work in public relations and in brand promotion. Before arriving at Zadig & Voltaire, what other brands did you work for? Before, I was at Gerard Darel, a much more traditional brand, very “parisienne.” It has a fantastic history and wonderful marketing campaigns, with Stephanie Seymour, Christy Turlington, Brooke Shields and Charlotte Gainsbourg.
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How often do you come to Portugal? Since I was a little girl, I go every year, in August. If I do not go, it does not feel like a real vacation. Because I have dual citizenship, I always feel at home, but I know that, despite being a small country, it has a lot to discover. Throughout the year, to relax, I sometimes spend weekends in Lisbon, in Fafe or more isolated, in Minho. Do you think about living in Portugal? I know that, when I retire, I will be spending as much time in Portugal as in Paris!
THE TIMELESS BEAUTY OF JEWELS Heir of a millenarian tradition, Portuguese jewellery has known how to reinvent itself and earn a place on the displays of the world’s greatest jewellery shops.
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The millenarian art that is rooted in highly perfectionist techniques – such as filigree for goldsmithing or chiselling for silversmithing – Portuguese jewellery stands out for its manual character, but also because it maximises the use of its raw material. Portugal is one of few countries in the world to prefer 19-carat gold, which is even known as “Portuguese gold”. It is different from that used in other countries because its alloy has a 80% concentration of gold, instead of the more common 75%.
Filigree, the art of weaving together delicate and incredibly thin strands of gold, forming circular or spiralling motifs, is now very appreciated in markets such as Japan. There are companies whose entire production is absorbed by orders from the Land of the Rising Sun. But that is not all. Sharon Stone was photographed strolling in Beverly Hills wearing on her chest a “Heart of Viana” – one of the most traditional filigree pieces. The image spread across the world and produced a staggering effect, making domestic and foreign demand shoot through the roof. But Portuguese jewellery is not all about being faithful to its origins. The arrival of new designers and creators brought a progressive and bold point of view. Names like Topázio, Eugénio
Association of Jewellery and Watchmakers. A micro-dimensioned sector, with a strong family-business character in which each company employs an average of two or three workers, this is an industry that has been opening up to the world, placing its products in markets like Spain, France, United States and Japan. Internationalisation has been a recent but consistent development. In 2013 alone, exports grew 45%, reaching 60 million dollars.
Orlando Soares
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PORTUGAL ANOTHER NAME FOR FLAVOUR
Photos: UP MAGAZINE (TAP) by Frederico Martins
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THE MOST EXCITING WINE IN THE WORLD The choice varies according to the entrĂŠe, the main course and the dessert. Or else, simply according to taste. We are talking about wine... and Portuguese wines are in fashion!
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He is American, a columnist for the internationally renowned magazine Wine Spectator, and he decided to live in Portugal because he “considers it to be the most exciting country in the world in terms of grape varieties and wines.” Matt Kramer is not the only one praising Portuguese wine. Ray Isle, executive wine editor of CNN’s Food & Wine section, describes Portugal as the winner of his “award for most exciting wine country in the world that the U.S. doesn’t know enough about,” after naming his article: “The most exciting wine you’re not drinking.”
by Patrícia Gonçalves
Surprised? Let us look at the published numbers: in 2013, exports in the wine sector in Portugal grew four percent compared to the previous year, and are now at 732 million euros, a number driven by a strong growth of the imports. It is true, Portuguese wine continues gaining followers all around the world, convincing consumers and winning specialists over. The awards won by Portuguese brands each year, in various international competitions, are evidence that Portuguese wine is good and recommendable. And there is no wine like the Portuguese. From north to south, an extensive selection: there is Vinho Verde, with a unique freshness, naturally light and fruity, with low alcoholic content, great as an aperitif or paired with light and balanced meals – salads, fish, seafood, white meats, tapas, sushi or sashimi; the Bairrada sparkling wines, which are very appreciated, especially when accompanying regional dishes, such as roasted suckling pig; the Alentejo red wines, with a welldefined ruby or garnet colour, fruity aromas of red berries, mature, smooth, warm, slightly astringent, full-bodied and balanced; or the white wines from the same region, strawcoloured, open or citric, fruity in aroma and in flavour, with some body and balance... And then, there is Port Wine, the most generous in the world.
The country’s climatic diversity gives very distinctive characteristics to its nectars, even for wines produced from the same grape varieties. Therefore, wine has always accompanied Portuguese culture and customs, and learning about it is a good reason for a vacation doing wine tourism, which basically means travelling across Portugal in order to learn about the various wines, as well as about the local history, culture and traditions. The Douro Valley, for example, is one of the oldest appellation region in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In addition to Port Wine, this is also where the “Douro” wine, an indispensable option to accompany any good meal, is produced. These treasured wines, after duly stabilised, are left to age in the bottle for a period of time that varies according to their type, during which they rest and acquire a new depth. The typical white wines from the Douro region are, in general, light and aromatic. When chilled, they are an excellent pairing for fish dishes. The reds, in turn, are warm and smooth, which gives them very unique and valued characteristics, and should be served at cellaring temperature. They are also excellent with a meat dish. There would be a lot to say about these and other Portuguese wines. But the best thing to do is to taste them and clear all doubts; as the CNN Food & Wine’s executive wine editor wrote, this is “the most exciting wine you’re not drinking.”
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IMPORTANT TIPS! Wine should be served at the appropriate temperature to bring out all its qualities, and that temperature depends on the type of wine. As a rule of thumb, fortified and dessert wines, aged wines and full-bodied wines even if they are young, as well as brandies, should be served at or slightly above room temperature (18-22 °C). Light reds, dry whites, clarets, palhetes and rosÊs, as well as dry fortified wines, should be served slightly chilled (7-12 °C). White wines and natural sparkling wines are better at nearly ice-cold temperatures. A good wine bottle should be uncorked about 30 to 60 minutes before being served, so that oxidation, in contact with the air, brings about the cascading development of its bouquet. It is advisable to use a helix corkscrew with a lever, to avoid shaking and disturbing the wine. Wines must always be served with care: whites may be poured into the glass from a height of 10 to 15 centimetres, especially when wanting to promote the development of foam; reds, especially if they are aged, should be poured from a lower height, even tipping the neck of the bottle against the glass and letting the wine flow smoothly.
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Photos: UP MAGAZINE (TAP) by Frederico Martins
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PORTUGAL One region
Lisbon The best beach
Guincho The best snack
Percebes A restaurant
Solar dos Presuntos, in Lisbon An author
José Saramago A book
“A Farewell to Arms“, Hemingway A museum
Museum of Ancient Art A designer
Nuno Gama A song
“Lisboa que Amanhece “ An actor
A movie
“Splendor in the Grass” PORTUGAL IS…THE BEST PLACE IN THE WORLD!
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photo Augusto Brázio
Miguel Guilherme
by CAMANÉ
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PORTUGUESE PEOPLE by Patrícia Gonçalves
MARIA JOÃO PIRES PIANIST She almost needs no introduction. Neither in Portugal or abroad. The name of Maria João Pires had been recognised internationally for a long time, since she won the Beethoven Bicentennial Competition in Brussels, in 1970. In late 2013, after the release of the album of Franz Schubert’s Piano Sonatas no. 16 & no. 21, she was nominated for the Grammy Awards in the Best Classical Instrumental Solo category, a nomination she had already received from the North-American National Academy of Recording Arts and Sciences. Born in 1944, in Lisbon, Maria João Pires’s repertoire includes Chopin, Bach, Schumann and Beethoven, amongst other composers. She has been regularly performing at the main venues of the world.
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ARE SUCCESSFUL ACROSS THE WORLD HÉLDER GUIMARÃES RUBEN ALVES
PEDRO PROENÇA
MAGIC
FILM
FOOTBALL REFEREE
There is a Portuguese magician shining in Hollywood! He was born in Porto 31 years ago and currently lives in Los Angeles. In 2001 he won an Academy of Magical Arts Award for the second time, in the United States. He is the best of the best magicians in the world. His card magic show in one of the main venues in Los Angeles was packed full for 19 weeks. In 2004, he became the first Portuguese magician to win the Ascanio Prize, the most prestigious Spanish award in the field, and in 2006, he became World Champion of Card Magic, in Sweden, which boosted his career and led him to performances all around the world.
He is Luso-French and it was the dual citizenship that inspired him to create The Gilded Cage, a film portraying the Portuguese immigrants’ community in France. The critics had no doubts and neither did the public. It had a 22-week run in French movie theatres and it was the film with most admissions at the Portuguese box office in 2013. It was distinguished with the People’s Choice Award at the European Film Awards and nominated for Best First Film at the César Awards, often described as the French Oscars. The success of a simple story, written and directed by Ruben Alves, which reached the United States with a screening at The Museum of Modern Art in New York.
One of the best football referees in the world – very likely the best – was born in Lisbon, 43 years ago. A financial director by profession, a field in which he works for various companies, Pedro Proença has been officiating international matches since 2003, although 2012 was the most memorable year of his career, having been the first referee in the history of football chosen to officiate the finals that decided the European champions at club level (Champions League) and at national team level (European Championship). In 2014, he once again officiated the important semi-final of the Champions League between Bayern Munich and Real Madrid, and he is one of the 25 referees selected by FIFA to be at the World Cup. And, in Brazil, Pedro Proença is even one of the top candidates to a place in the final.
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THE LIBRARY OF MAFRA
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The Library of the Mafra National Palace is considered the most beautiful in the world by the well-known American Book Riot portal exclusively devoted to books. After electing the Lello Bookshop in Porto, as the most beautiful on the planet, Portugal conquers the U.S. again with the amazing hidden library inside this national monument.
“It is charming”, one can read. “And what make it even more impressive are the techniques of book preservation and how the books are protected from being damaged by insects. There are 500 bats within that library. During the day, these are stored in boxes, but they are released at night to feed on insects that go through there.“
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Being elected “Best European Destination 2014” definitely makes Porto one of the most vibrant and exciting cities at the moment, with an enthusiastic cultural and social scene that deserves not to be missed. Take your time to discover the coolest places that this coastal city has to offer and get yourself on track to spend a perfect relaxed Saturday. Get inspiration from these routes suggested by our renowned fashion designers who happen to be truly bounded with this amazing city - both personal and professionally and know its best spots better than anyone.
by Joana Jervell
PORTO THE TRENDIEST IN EUROPE LUÍS BUCHINHO Ideally on a Saturday morning I enjoy staying at home. If I decide to go out – which rarely happens! – I enjoy going downtown for a casual walk with my dogs along Rua de Santa Catarina. I also tend to stop by Papélia as I love to buy drawing supplies. My morning ends in pizzeria Casad’oro for a sunny lunch at the terrace. In the afternoon I would go for a stroll at Parque da Cidade and then I would visit Museu de Serralves. Afterwards I would most probably head to Rua Miguel Bombarda to pop in L de Luz store. For dinner the Japanese restaurant Kyoto is a perfect option, followed by a coffee and/or drinks at Café Vitória just a few meters above the street. The evening will continue with a walk along Rua Galerias de Paris and its surroudings and finally I will surely end up at Passos Manuel for a dancing night.
Luís Buchinho’s Favourites
CASAD’ORO Rua do Ouro, 797 www.restaurantecasanostra.com
MUSEU DE SERRALVES Rua Dom João de Castro, 210 www.serralves.pt
L DE LUZ Rua Miguel Bombarda, 469 www.ldeluz.com 124-125
KYOTO Praça de Guilherme Gomes Fernandes, 56
CAFÉ VITÓRIA Rua de José Falcão, 156 www.cafevitoria.com
PASSOS MANUEL Rua Passos Manuel, 137 www.passosmanuel.net
ANABELA BALDAQUE On a Saturday the first thing I would do is pick up my bicycle and ride along the Douro river till Largo do Ouro. Right in front of it I would take the Flôr de Gás boat to reach Afurada (on the opposite side of the river) where I enjoy my breakfast at 1º de Maio bakery. Then I will go ahead to Cabedelo to admire Foz from a different perspective. Back to Porto, I may stop by Mercado da Foz to buy some flowers! I would have my lunch at Casa Aberta, a lovely place that serves excellent sandwiches, with great music and an almost ‘secret’ courtyard at the back. In the afternoon I would walk around the charming and tiny streets of Foz Velha, another “historic center” of the city worth visiting. Later on, and when the daylight begins to fade, I would head into the beach to relax and watch the sunset at Praia da Luz terrace, for instance. At dinnertime I would go to Miss’Opo and end up dancing the night away in one of the many cool bars downtown.
Anabela Baldaque’s Favourites
MERCADO DA FOZ Rua de Diu
CASA ABERTA Rua Padre Luís Cabral, 1080 www.casa-aberta.com
PRAIA DA LUZ Avenida Brasil www.praiadaluz.pt
MISS’OPO Rua dos Caldeireiros, 100 www.missopo.com
NUNO BALTAZAR My morning will start at 10.00 am with a brunch or breakfast at Rota do Chá out in the garden if the day is sunny or in its cosy and intimate interior rooms if it’s a smoggy day. I will do a quick stop at Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis that I often visit, particularly the sculpture gallery that I love! Another option is to stop by Museu da Arte Sacra e Arqueologia do Porto, quite unfamiliar to most of the city residents but an extraordinary place to go. By 12.10 pm I must attend my Spartans class in Holmes Place Boavista gym. It’s a great way to have 50 minutes of intense and energetic workout for the weekend. Lunch can be with the family or at Casad’oro for a wonderful pizza with the best views over the Douro River. From here I will go for a walk in Serralves gardens or I may visit Jardim Botânico, a special place where I usually go again and again...
Later on I inevitably must stop by my store Nuno Baltazar to meet with some clients and then I will drop over by the store eu.sei.que.vou.te.amar… since I always like to find out the latest interior design trends according to architect Vítor Almeida. In the late afternoon I will have a gin and tonic at Candelabro before having dinner at Cometa, one of my favourite restaurants, recently renovated. In Foz, Shis would also be a great choice – let’s hope it will be quickly rebuilt! To complete the evening I would definitely go downtown where I can attend many of my favorite bars, inevitably starting at Café au Lait.
Nuno Baltazar’s Favourites
ROTA DO CHÁ Rua Miguel Bombarda, 457
MUSEU NACIONAL SOARES DOS REIS Rua D. Manuel II, 44 www.museusoaresdosreis.pt
MUSEU DE ARTE SACRA E ARQUEOLOGIA DO PORTO Largo do Colégio
HOLMES PLACE DA BOAVISTA Rua O 1º de Janeiro www.holmesplace.pt
CASAD’ORO Rua do Ouro, 797 www.restaurantecasanostra.com
LOJA NUNO BALTAZAR Avenida da Boavista, 856 www.nunobaltazar.com
EU.SEI.QUE.VOU.TE.AMAR… Rua da Venezuela, 53
CANDELABRO Rua da Conceição, 3 www.cafecandelabro.blogspot.com
COMETA Rua Tomaz Gonzaga, 87
CAFÉ AU LAIT Rua Galerias de Paris, 46 www.cafeaulait-porto.blogspot.com
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by Susana Ribeiro
Casa da Música, in Porto, was named as one of the most beautiful concert halls in the world. According to Emporis, a German company that collects technical data from buildings across the world, the project by Rem Koolhaas is one of the 15 most “spectacular” concert hall buildings. The Portuguese Casa da Música is part of this small list of venues that “have remarkable architecture, offering audiences a great show even before they have taken their seats”, says the report by Emporis, which highlights the “eye-catching shapes, colours and materials” of those venues. The Top 15 put together by the Hamburg-based building data company, as reported by CNN, and in addition to Casa da Música, includes other impressive buildings such as the Heydar Aliyev Centre, in Azerbaijan; Berlin’s Philharmonie, in Germany; the Cidade das Artes, in Brazil; and the Walt Disney Concert Hall, in Los Angeles, amongst others.
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CASA DA MÚSICA Amongst the world’s most beautiful works of architecture
ART ON CHAIRS Wins “best european project of the year” award Art on Chairs, an initiative from the City of Paredes that promotes local furniture industry, won the 2014 RegioStars Award. Presented in Brussels, the European Commission’s award honours Art on Chairs as “an example of good practices in the application of European funds and a model to be followed by other regions of the European Union’s 28 member states”. In competition against other equally impressive projects, such as the British Library’s project, in London, or the Technological Cluster established in partnership by the governments of Denmark, Sweden and Norway, the innovative character of the project was determining. Art on Chairs had its first edition in 2012, with 76 innovative projects, with the participation of over 100 designers and 35 furniture companies from Paredes. As part of the DUETS initiative, 11 chairs were made with the help of public figures like Cavaco Silva, José Ramos-Horta, Cristiano Ronaldo, José Mourinho, Manoel de Oliveira, Eduardo Souto Moura, Mia Couto, Mariza, Maria Bethânia, Luciano Benetton and Zalmäi. In 2014, Art on Chairs is back, held in Paredes and in Lisbon, with visits to Beijing, Dubai and Milan. Further information: www.artonchairs.com.
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MATEUS A brand admired across the world Internationally recognised, Sogrape Vinhos’s rosé brand, Mateus, was included in the list of 50 most admired wines in the world. The title was awarded by Drinks International, a prestigious publication in the field of drinks. The selection of this Top 50 was made following a tasting that brought together a panel of over 200 wine industry professionals. In addition to its 37th place, Mateus was also the only Portuguese brand included. It is worth noting that Mateus was in competition with other internationally recognised brands, such as Château Margaux, Château d’Yquem, Casillero del Diablo and Jacob’s Creek. Each year, Drinks International names, as the “World’s Most Admired Wine Brands”, those who distinguish themselves, using differentiating elements like consistency, quality and attractiveness in the global market.
PORTUGAL Best European destination in the United States
Tourism awards continue to distinguish Portugal. After Porto as the “Best European Destination” and Lisbon as “Best Cruise Destination”, the distinction comes from the United States. Portugal was elected, through open voting, in one of the biggest American travel websites, as the best country in Europe. The choice came from the readers of newspaper USA Today who owns the webpage 10 Best (www.10best.com).
The nominated countries have been selected by a panel of specialists from the tourism industry, and in the end, Portugal stood out from the competition and earned the first place. In this voting, Portugal scored ahead European countries such as Italy, Austria, Germany, United Kingdom and Spain. Amongst the reasons pointed, are several that go beyond the touristic side of the country, such as the ancient Portuguese history, reflected in its medieval castles, the gastronomy, fado and the picturesque villages and beaches.
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PORTUGUESE CUISINE
The Gastronomic Brotherhood of the Abbot wants to internationalize the “Abade de Priscos” Pudding even further and take it to the Vatican, so that Pope Francis can taste it.
'ABAde de PRISCOS' PUDDING The “Abade de Priscos” was Father Manuel Joaquim Machado Rebelo, who was born in 1834 and lived to be 96 years old. In service in Braga, the abbot was always a man of great culinary talent and created the conventual confection that was named after his title: the “Abade de Priscos” Pudding. by Susana Ribeiro
Ingredients - 500 gr of sugar - 1/2 litre of water - 50 gr of fresh bacon - 15 egg yolks - zest from 1 lemon, to taste - 1 cinnamon stick - 1 chalice of good Port wine - 200 gr of sugar make the caramel Directions Dissolve 500 gr of sugar in 1/2 litre of water and add the lemon zest, cinnamon and bacon. The slice of bacon should not have a lot of fat. Bring the mixture to boil and, when it reaches the firm ball stage, strain the syrup through a wire mesh into a bowl containing the egg yolks, lightly beaten and Port wine. Coat the pudding tin with the sugar and cook it, for 30 minutes, in a bain-marie in a very hot oven. Cook it for 30 minutes. You should only remove it from the tin after it has cooled down to warm, in order to preserve its shape.
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