Portuguese Soul n.13 - June 2017

CAMPANHA 2017 VICTORIA

PORTUGUESE SOUL 1

© 2015 PORTUGUESE SOUL

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the editor, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to the editor, addressed “Attention: Portuguese Soul Permissions”, at the address paulogoncalves@mail.apiccaps.pt _

Director

President of APICCAPS

Editor-in-Chief

Paulo Gonçalves

Editor

Cláudia Pinto

Graphic Design Photography Fashion Director Collaboration Illustration Special Thanks

Owner

paulogoncalves@mail.apiccaps.pt Mário Teixeira (www.manifestoworks.com) Frederico Martins (www.fredericomartins.net) Fernando Bastos Pereira Catarina Vasques Rito, Ilídia Pinto, Irina Chitas, Joana Jervell, Patrícia Gonçalves, Sónia Santos Pererira and Susana Ribeiro António Soares (www.antoniosoares.tumblr.com) AICEP Portugal Global, ANJE, ModaLisboa, Ana Paula Andrade (ANJE), Fátima Santos (AORP), Manuela Oliveira (ModaLisboa), Mónica Neto (ANJE), Paula Ascenção Laranja (Min. Economia), Paula Parracho and Joana Vaz Teixeira APICCAPS Portuguese Footwear, Components, Leather Goods Manufacturers’ Association Rua Alves Redol 372 4050-042 Porto _ Tel: +351 225 074 150 | Fax: +351 225 074 179 apiccaps@mail.telepac.pt _ www.apiccaps.pt www.portugueseshoes.pt | www.portuguesesoul.pt www.portugueseshoestv.pt -

ISBN Circulation Printed by

2182-2298 10.000 copies Empresa Diário do Porto _ The views expressed in PORTUGUESE SOUL are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the owner or its staff.

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EDITORIAL ________

The Portuguese footwear industry began 2017 just as it had ended the previous year: by growing in its external markets.

Once the final numbers are in, this should be the eighth year of consecutive growth for the sector internationally. Since 2009, exports have risen by 59% to achieve a new record high at the end of 2016.

The sector’s stellar results are often considered to be genuine «case studies», of interest to a range of international organisations, and studied in classrooms all over the world.

The most common question heard is “how is it possible for the sector to achieve such good results?” If it is a complex question, the answer is even more so. There are various factors which have contributed towards the international consolidation of Portuguese footwear. First of all, it is a question of attitude. This year alone, 200 companies are taking part in 70 fairs around the world. And then it is the result of a dedicated course of action, with no interruptions and with strategic definition being consolidated since the end of the 1970s. Finally, investment has been made over many consecutive years, first in innovation and the development of a quality service, then in the creation of brands and finally promoting to external markets.

But are these recent great results good enough to guarantee the future?

The sector as a whole defined its main goal to be seen as “the international benchmark for sophistication and good taste”. It i as a daring ambition, for which reason Portuguese companies will continue to step up the pace as we head towards a more competitive future. Until that time… the shoes must go on.

________ PAULO GONÇALVES 6 PORTUGUESE SOUL

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store.santosshoes.com

CON TEN TS OLD SCHOOL 50 A NEW TALENT WAS BORN 52 HELL YEAH! 54 MR. INSTAGRAMMER 56 WHAT’S UP 60 HERE TO STAY 72 DAYDREAMER 74 NEW BOYS IN TOWN 92 TOUJOURS PARIS 100 RUBEN RUA 114 RED WOLF 116 A WELL KEPT SECRET 118 CARLOS GIL 130 FRESH BLOOD 132

04 EDITORIAL 12 MAKING OF 14 MR. PRESIDENT 16 PRINCE OF ARABIA 18 THE WORLD AT HER FEET 20 PORTUGUESE LEATHER GOODS 24 NUMBERS MATTER 26 UP, UP, UP 28 GENTLEMAN’S CODE 46 ELISABETH TEIXEIRA 48 PRISCILLA

146 MODALISBOA 152 154 156 160 162 164 166 180 182

SANGUE NOVO THE GODDESS PORTUGAL FASHION WHAT DOES A PERFUMER...

DIOGO MIRANDA AROUND THE WORLD THE PERKS OF BEING .A MURDER ANSELMO 1910 DANIEL GORJAO

PORTUGAL

185 VHILS 188 MISTERIOUS CLOWN 190 THE HOTSPOT OF HOTSPOTS 192 YOU CAN LEAVE YOUR HAT ON 194 OITO EM PONTO 196 MONVERDE 198 ZAPPING 200 RECIPE 10 PORTUGUESE SOUL

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MAKING OF ________

“Toujours Paris”. The City of Light is the inspiration for another editorial for the magazine Portuguese Soul.

The camera of Frederico Martins captured the essence of one of the world’s most iconic cities and the creativity of the Portuguese-French talent Nelly Gonçalves allowed us to ally some of the most significant Portuguese footwear companies for men with the sheer elegance of the world’s most celebrated, unrivalled fashion brands.

Frederico N, the Italian model everyone is talking about, and model of choice for Tom Ford’s global campaign, was the face for this photo shoot - the first ever to happen on foreign soil for Portuguese Soul magazine.

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AS NOVAS FRAGRÂNCIAS

MR . PRESIDENT ________

LUÍS ONOFRE Photo: Frederico Martins

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uís Onofre is an iconic name in Portuguese fashion and in the national footwear industry.

He was one of the first business entrepreneurs to create a trademark and to take on the risks of launching a Portuguese name on the international luxury market. The designer from Oliveira de Azeméis won the bet, at 45 years of age. He succeeded in making the market see his shoes as iconic pieces of fashion, as objects with a cult status, unique pieces that any woman would like to wear. Currently he is president of the association representing the Portuguese footwear sector.

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SHOES

WITH

CHARACTER

PRINCE OF ARABIA ________

MANUEL ARNAUT

P

ortuguese-born Manuel Arnaut is the new Editor-in-chief of Vogue Arabia. The announcement was made a day after the news of Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz’s exit, released on the site “Business of Fashion”.

After heading the launch of Architectural Digest in the Middle East and as head of the Portuguese editions of Vogue and GQ, Arnaut will now be responsible for an international and multilingual editorial team.

Manuel Arnaut was also for four years an employee of Portuguese Soul.

“After starting my professional life at Vogue and having grown up devouring each page of the international editions, I am deeply honoured to have the opportunity to return “home” at the helm of Vogue Arabia”, emphasised Manuel Arnaut in a press release. The journalist praised the richness and heritage of the Middle East and the manner in which the publication can celebrate Fashion and its cultural identity. “We are committed to transforming Vogue Arabia into a proud voice for the region, representative of the strength and the allure of the Arab woman” “Manuel Arnaut brings with him a decade of Condé Nast editorial experience combined with a strong track record of regional success. We are looking forward to seeing him nurture Vogue Arabia,” says Shashi Menon, CEO & Publisher of the Nervora Group, which is licensed to publish the magazine. “Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz earned a place in the history of fashion and of Vogue,” concludes Menon, emphasising how important the launch of the magazine has been.

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T H E WORLD AT H E R F E E T ________

V

ictoria Guerra, star of the Portuguese Shoes Campaign 2017: An icon, she is in the Top 10 of European Shooting Stars of the Berlin International Film Festival.

Victoria, who has joined the cast of international films such as “Cosmos” and “À Jamais”, was handpicked alongside other respected actors like Alessandro Borghi from Italy, Karin Franz Korlof of Sweden and Hannah Hoekstra from Holland.

The 20th edition of the festival took place during the month of February in Berlin, culminating in the

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award of this prize to this Portuguese actress who was there in person at the opening of the Berlinale.

The “Shooting Stars” programme is an initiative to turn the spotlight on the best young European actors, granting them visibility on the select international movie circuit doing the rounds at the Berlin cinema festival. 2017 was the 20th edition of “Shooting Stars” and the 10 names of the year are chosen by a specialist jury from a vast list of potential candidates, who have been nominated by members of the European Film Promotion (EFP) organisation.

Charlotte Olympia Designer

C RYSTA LS - F RO M- SWA ROVSKI .CO M

PORTUGUESE L E AT H E R G O O D S ________ Photos: Óscar Almeida

Bag and Hat: Belcinto

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Belts: Goro

Quality and good taste. Tradition and knowhow. These seem to be the main competitive arguments that have heralded a radical change in the international perception of Portuguese leather goods and accessories.

On the back of this new-found acclaim, imports of Portuguese leather goods and accessories grow year after year. Since 2008 they have practically tripled and amount now to 178 million euros (a new historic high).

Last year sales of leather goods and accessories abroad increased 18.9%.

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Bag: Rufel

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N U M B E R S M AT T E R ________

PORTUGUESE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY IN FIGURES

1473

The number of Portuguese Footwear companies based in Portugal. Since 2010, 228 new footwear companies have been created in Portugal, manly in the North.

152

59%

The increase in Portuguese Footwear exports since 2009. By the end of 2016, Portugal had exported, 81 million pairs of shoes, at the value of 1923 million euros.

Portugal exports more than 95% of his production. 152 is the number of markets which Portuguese footwear is exported to.

6534 300

The number of Portuguese brands created in the last decade. Brands like Josefinas, Exceed Shoe Thinkers and Guava have been created in the last few years and are now exported all around the world.

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The number of the new jobs created.

The Portuguese footwear industry now employs ‌.. people, 6534 more than in the recent past. And the number keeps growing.

U P, U P, U P ________

PORTUGUESE FOOTWEAR EXPORTS

After seven years of consecutive growth, Portuguese footwear exports at the beginning of 2017 were literally never better. During the first months of the year, sales abroad increased 6.4%.

Portuguese footwear exports have been growing in practically all the more relevant European markets with the exception of the United Kingdom (seeing a drop of 2.3%). Sales in the European region grew 5.8% at the start of the year.

Additionally, Portuguese shoes continue to gain ground outside the European Union, with sales increasing 10.4%.

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Of special mention are the gains in Angola (more than 190%) and Russia (more than 22.9%), two markets where Portuguese footwear’s performance in 2016 had been underwhelming.

Since 2009, footwear exports have already increased 59% to reach a new historic high of 1.923 billion euros last year.

In the other cluster sectors, there was good news of sales growth for footwear components in foreign markets (21.9% more), and in the export of leather goods, luggage and bags (10.3% more).

www.perks.pt

GENT LEMAN ’S CODE ________ Photos: Óscar Almeida Retouching: Paulo Ferreira

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Shoes: Centenário

Bag: Idela & Co.

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Shoes: Profession Bottier

Shoes: J Reinaldo

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Shoes: Gino B

Belt: Goro; Shirts: The Board

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Shoes: RCM; Belt: Goro

Shoes: Ambitious; Bowtie: Vandoma

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Shoes: Carlos Santos

Shirts: The Board; Ties: Vandoma

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Shoes: Dark Collection; Pocket Square: Vandoma

Watches: Eugénio Campos

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Shoes: Exceed Shoe Thinkers; Ties: Vandoma

WELL D ONE MR. DANIEL ________

PICTURE OF THE YEAR INTERNATIONAL - IBEROAMERICA

Daniel Rodrigues became a professional photographer after the passage by the Portuguese Institute of Photography (2010). His career started in the portuguese newspaper, Correio da Manhã, and he also worked in Global Imagens agency, responsible for photographs in newspapers as Jornal de Notícias, Diário de Notícias and O Jogo.

He is an award winning photographer who in 2013 won a first place in the World Press Photo, Daily Life category, in 2015 a third place as Photographer of the Year in POYi, in 2017 the Ibericoamerican Photographer of The Year in POY LATAM, a third place as Photographer of the Year in NPPA - Best of photojournalism and among many other awards.

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The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, The Washington Post, Al Jazeera, Helsingin Sanomat, Die Welt, Daily Mail, CNN, BBC, Folha de São Paulo, Courrier Internacional, Expresso, Visão Magazine, among others, are where he already has published photos.

Daniel is currently based in Portugal.

He works as a freelance photographer all around the world and a contributor photographer for the New York Times since May 2015.

Daniel Rodrigues works regularly with Portuguese Soul Mag and, recently, was distinguish as IbericoAmerican Photographer of The Year. Well done Mr. Daniel.

www.felmini.com www.facebook.com/felmini

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ELISABET H T EIXEI RA ________

THE NEW LIFE

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She is one of Portugal’s most highly regarded creative people. She took her first steps as a designer at Portugal Fashion and quickly caught the eye of the dedicated specialist press.

And then she one day moved to Paris. She began all over again and in this new incarnation, Elisabeth Teixeira has shown there are no limits to a natural-born talent. She spends her day at Colette, where she brings her allure to one of the most respected fashion stores in the world, founded in 1997 and which seeks to reinvent the way we shop, every single day. Keeping up with the times and being innovative are essential to its mix of styles, at the crossroads between form, technology, art, street wear and beauty.

But Elisabeth Teixeira’s most recent incarnation has not stopped there at rue Saint-Honoré. There is also her blog, Une Morue à Paris. On this journey through the Parisian streets, Elisabeth Teixeira goes in search of even more new worlds, from travel to gastronomy, hip-pop to tattoo trends.

Recently, she debuted as a model for a French brand. This new life of Elisabeth Teixeira is as exciting as it sounds.

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T H E TA L E N T E D SENHOR PRUDÊNCIO ________

L

aunched in 2012, Senhor Prudêncio is a lifestyle brand with a high focus in shoes and accessories for men, created by João Pedro Filipe, inspired by the traditional craftsmanship of the Portuguese shoemaker from the 50’s.

Graduated in the Fashion Design International Program at Institute Français de la Mode (IFM) in Paris, the Portuguese shoe designer founded his own shoe and fashion design studio in 2010, and since then has been working in collaboration with Portuguese brands like Exceed Shoe Thinkers and Eureka, so as with several international brands like Thakoon Addition, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, among others.

In September 2012, Filipe won the British Council’s Young Creative Fashion Entrepreneur Award 2012 and represented Portugal in London Fashion Week where the brand was officially launched.

Nowadays, João Pedro is one of the most talented Portuguese Shoe designers and creates high quality products with high focus in traditional craftsmanship techniques and contemporary design.

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OLD SCHO OL ________

ANTIGA BARBEARIA DO BAIRRO

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t is called the “Antiga Barbearia de Bairro”. It is the first brand created by the people at 100ml and aims to “resuscitate the ritual of shaving”: with this “old school” ritual, the Antiga 1 a moment seeing17 towards revivalism, 9 6 Barbearia 7 5 8 do Bairro 11 endorses 15 12 2at 16 19 13“a trend 18 14 we’re 22 2 3 in2 4 20 1 0brand which there is a definite return to the classics now reinterpreted and filtered through fresh visual and aesthetic tastes.”

Luís Miguel Pereira reminds us too that “in Portugal barbershops are an integral part of the history of many towns and a favoured “gathering place”.” There are neighbourhoods where this tradition has been kept alive, its way of life and practices, where one can still engage in conversation and exchange pleasantries, something that is so typical of Portuguese culture and a real source of national pride. Our brand has grown in the same way.”

Antiga Barbearia do Bairro has invested in a variety of grooming products for the modern man such as soaps, different shaving creams and skincare lotions.

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THE ART OF T R A N S F O R M AT I O N ________

NUNO LOPES Words: Cláudia Pinto

W

e know him by the timbre of his distinctive voice. We’ve all seen him flit between cinema and theatre. His perfect, meticulous acting roles are emblazoned on our memories.

the role of Jorge, for example, he gained 20 kg and plunged head first into the harsh reality of those many men who lost their job during the crisis. He spent 2 years training as a boxer and months on a junkyard observing it from up close.

It is Nuno Lopes we speak of. The Portuguese actor continues to be an international ambassador for Portuguese cinema. Series, the stage, soaps and cinema: the kinds of roles he plays know no limits, both here and abroad.

«I spent time with these people. I listened to how they speak, and gained an understanding of their lives together. I went to their neighbourhoods and their junkyards. I wanted to understand what it is really like to live that life. After all those premieres across the world… what will stay with me forever are the moments I spent with those people.»

In 2016 he was singled out by the jury in the “Orizzonti” section of the Venice International Film Festival, winning the award for Best Actor for his performance in “São Jorge”, directed by Marco Martins.

The film is a social portrait of Portugal during the financial crisis, a drama holding up a mirror to our poorly remembered recent history, when many Portuguese were left out to dry by the Troika as it rolled into our country. Nuno Lopes plays the role of an unemployed boxer who gives his all to guarantee the survival of his family.

If there’s one thing that is a hallmark of the work of this actor it is, without a doubt, the way he nails the social reality of each character. To play

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After the praise lavished upon him in Venice, the actor went back to work, this time treading the boards with the play Night of the Iguana. On the stage, Nuno plays the role of Lawrence Shannon, an intense character who becomes embroiled in scandal.

«I think there is something mysterious in watching a person hit rock bottom. It moves us! The playwright said so himself: how to live beyond despair and still live?»

The actor was the recent recipient of the Portuguese Golden Globe for Best Actor in a Film Role.

www.dkode.com

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W H AT ’ S U P ________ Photos: Carmo Amorim

Bag: Maria Maleta

Shoes: Friendly Fire

Shoes: Perlato

Shoes: Guava

Bag: Rufel

Shoes: Helsar

Bag: Cavalinho

Shoes: Tony Miranda

Shoes: Codenoir

Shoes: Vanel

Shoes: Relance

A N E W TA L E N T WA S B O R N ________

S U S A N A B E T T EN CO U R T

Susana Bettencourt is from the Azores islands of Portugal (São Miguel islands). She lived more than ten years in London, where she graduated in Fashion Design with a specialisation in Knitwear, from Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design, and she completed with distinction the master’s degree in Digital Fashion of London College of Fashion.

Before setting out on her own, Susana Bettencourt worked with designers such as Brooke Roberts and Portuguese designers Alexandra Moura and Fátima Lopes. The singer, actress and model, Sarah Harding, wore a Susana Bettencourt dress to the Red Carpet Fashion Awards.

Susana Bettencourt’s garments are sold on a variety of online platforms.

She made her debut at Portugal Fashion in October 2011 and, in September 2014, she took part in the Vienna Fashion Week, produced by Portugal Fashion International. She has exhibited, with the support of ANJE, at specialised trade shows in cities such as London, Copenhagen and Paris.

The young designer has also taken part in London and Vancouver Fashion Weeks and she has had a fashion show in Malaysia.

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H ELL, YEAH! ________

KRUELLA D’ENFER Words: Irina Chitas

Total creative freedom. That’s the point.

That’s always the point. And that’s always the pursuit. For Angela Ferreira – you may know her as “Kruella d’Enfer” – the dream began in 2009, when she started taking drawing seriously, and this was the beginning of the story of one of Portugal’s most exciting and cool artists.

She grew up in a small village in Tondela, and, with no other children to play with, she let her imagination run riot, developing her creative skills as she imagined worlds. In fact, there is always something candid and naïve about her projects, maybe because of the bright colours that intersect to create new universes that are surreal, magical, and always extremely beautiful, even if they are sometimes a bit twisted. From Tondela to the world – this might sound

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like a cliché, but is also true – she has shown her masterpieces in solo and exhibitions, not only in Portugal, but also in England, France, Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Thailand, Switzerland, and the Netherlands, using paper, digital screens or even whole walls as her canvas.

No matter what the project is – a postcard or an entire building or her living room – you want to immerse yourself in the experience and delve inside her head.

You want to buy a ticket to wherever this enchanted universe is and plunge into its whimsical waves. Angela whispers in your ear about a life where the colours are brighter, where ghosts roam free, where stories don’t end. Where there are myths, pop culture, sounds and smells, mermaids and hip-hop – and this bad-ass chick is only just beginning.

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INTERNATIONAL FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES TRADE SHOW

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ORGANISED BY

SEPTEMBER

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#MOMADShoes

MR. I N S TA G R A M M E R ________

DIOGO OLIVEIRA

D

iogo Oliveira. For the great majority of us mere mortals, we’ve probably never heard of the guy. On social media, however, he has shown the world what he is really made of. The renowned magazine Mr. Porter even called him the “hidden gem” of Instagram.

He began taking photos when very young. An interest which has only become more pronounced as the years have gone by. All the way from Porto, Diogo Oliveira discovers unexpected locations endowed with exceptional beauty. His passion for photography has become increasingly refined and now, alongside Frederico Martins at Lalaland studios, he possesses an exquisite aesthetic sense and an unusual capacity for capturing beauty, particularly that of Porto. With some 44,000 followers on Instagram, Diogo Oliveira is today one of Porto’s top digital ambassadors.

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H E R E T O S TAY ________

Words: Cláudia Pinto Photo: The Baron’s Cage

LEMOKE

FRIENDLY FIRE

UNDANDY

The story begins like many others in the footwear industry: youngsters born into families traditionally linked to the sector. A passion for shoes is the final piece in the puzzle. Lemoke was founded in 2016, inspired by the desire to continue a legacy of five generations of know-how. A taste for the good things in life and a love for shoes that fit to perfection did the rest.

Alexandre, nutritionist. Rute, primary school teacher. The characters in this story could have played their roles to perfection, but they decided to join forces and create… a range of shoes. Friends since they were kids and passionate about design with a touch of whimsy and the unorthodox, Alexandra and Rute created Friendly Fire to reflect their tastes and style.

Personalisation is no longer a novelty in the footwear sector, but with 156 billion combinations all yours at the press of a button? Thanks to Undandy it is now possible.

The brand allies “tradition and high quality to having a team of experienced people with different skills, from management to design with a creative vision of the market, its trends and positioning. We want to give our customers beautiful shoes that stand out and look classic, taking as our inspiration one of the most timeless and iconic pieces of footwear: the Moccasin.”

Heading into its second year of production, the brand is known for its unconventional collections, inspired by the unexpected combinations of materials, colours and patterns. Independent, sophisticated women who appreciate fine detailing are the inspirational muse of the brand. Conceived and produced in Guimarães using the know-how of a manufacturer with more than 25 years’ experience in the sector, Friendly Fire intends to become a leader in the national luxury market.

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Undandy is an online sales platform for men’s footwear, conceived for those who want something unique and personalised, and handmade in Portugal.

Each model can be completely customised, even getting its own name. To do so, the customer just has to go to the online store, where 156 billion combinations are yours to choose from. In just five easy steps, each pair of shoes can be customised down to the finest detail on the brand website (from the toe, to the model, material, shoelaces stitching) and in two weeks a unique pair of shoes arrives on your doorstep.

They are born in the minds of young entrepreneurs. They are the constantly-shifting dreams and daily challenges of sending their ambitions on a voyage of worldwide success. Many of them with family ties to the footwear industry, others simply carried along by their love for shoes. They set out to bridge gaps in the market and create the perfect brand for all kinds of feet. These are the young brands making a splash on the market. And… they are here to stay.

JOSEFINAS

MARIA MALETA

THE BARON’S CAGE

They need no introduction at home, while abroad they are also beginning to make waves. They have taken the ballet flat “made-in-Portugal” to become the most expensive of its kind in the world, now with a New York flagship store and every single day dressing the feet of the most carefree figures in the world spotlight. Created by Filipa Júlio the Josefinas ballet flat brand has revolutionised the international market.

“It’s the fairy tale in which two BFFs reach the conclusion that neither of them has enough bags.”

How this story ends shouldn’t be difficult to figure out. Ana and Daniela, two best friends, could not be less alike. “If one loves sweet things, the other prefers something savoury. If one likes films the other is more into music. If one prefers peace and quiet, the other is a party girl, and one follows her heart while the other her head, and so on. But there is one thing they have in common, a taste for something in particular, which leads us to “Maria/ Maleta” They together had an innovative concept to launch on the market: a bag that in the end… is actually two. The reversible bag concept is the big reveal behind the business of these two youngsters from Porto. 100% created and handmade in Portugal, the line comes in authentic quality fabrics and materials. “Maria Maleta is a fun way to dress up your outfit, aligning with the founders’ vision of spoiling their customers and meeting their needs in a way that is casual and fun, also offering a service to create exclusive, personalised custom pieces.”

Created in 2016, The Baron’s Cage brand is 100% “made in Portugal”, helmed by creative director Bruno Queirós. Designed for men who share a taste for the eccentric and creative, The Baron’s Cage challenges the limits of conventional design, elevating the classic to the extraordinary.

She began little more than three years ago, the designer inspired by the ballerinas of her childhood.

With just one online store and completely focused on brand awareness through social media, the brand began to make steady inroads. Instagram was one of the most effective promotional tools of Josefinas, which began to see its account recommended more and more often. Following this came collaborations with national brands and the international recognition of figures such as Sara Sampaio and Chiara Ferragni.

Dozens of capsule collections were launched, the distinction of the world’s most expensive ballet flat was theirs and last year they introduced a line of sneakers. They plunged into the world of accessories by creating two lines of handbags inspired by Sophia Loren. In 2016 a flagship space was opened in New York.

The Baron’s Cage celebrates the day-to-day of the barons of the modern age and invites them to indulge their powers in even more extraordinary ways. The line is produced in Portugal, by teams of craftsmen with more than 70 years of experience, honouring standards of comfort and brand excellence. The collections are inspired by the ideals of the bourgeoisie of yesteryear, by men who are creative, determined and confident, who know what they want, are proud of what they have and who they are.

The biggest development for the brand in 2017 is its partnership with Chiara Ferragni, considered the world’s most famous blogger. The creator of Blonde Salad will put her name to a limited edition for the ballet flat brand, of which she has been a fan since the beginning. In partnership with Filipa Júlio, the blogger has developed two exclusive models inspired by the Cleopatra Mule. With about 7.4 million followers, Chiara has already been seen in public wearing this footwear “made in Portugal”.

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D AY D R E A M E R ________

Photos: Frederico Martins Styling: Fernando Bastos Pereira

Ankle Boots: Eureka; All Clothing: Carlos Gil; Vintage Gloves

Sweatshirt and track pants: Carlos Gil

Shoes Gino B; Jumpsuit and parka: David Catalรกn; Cuff Bracelet: Mister

Boots: LuĂ­s Onofre; Jacket and belt: Diogo Miranda; Dress: Carlos Gil; Earrings: Uterque

Shoes: Helsar; Dress: Nuno Baltazar

Shoes: Paradigma; Tank ,trousers and denim bomber jacket: David Catalรกn; Rings: Icon

Clutch: Rufel; Blouse and kimono: Nuno Baltazar

Shoes: Tatuaggi; Skirt: Diogo Miranda; Men’s T-shirt: Nuno Baltazar; Necklace: Uterque

Dress: Nuno Baltazar; Polo Neck: Mad But Magic

Shoes: Perlato; Coat and Skirt: Nuno Baltazar; Polo Neck: Mad But Magic; Vintage Tulle Dress

Production: Helena Silva ‘Snowberry’ Photographer assistants: Pedro Sá and Diogo Oliveira Styling Assistant: Nelson Lima Make-up: Patrícia Lima assisted by Ana Raquel Ribeiro Hair: Rui Rocha Models: Pong Lee ‘Elite Lisbon’ Retouching: Lalaland Studios

Shoes: Relance; Blazer, dress and pants: Carlos Gil; Blouse: Nuno Baltazar; Bracelet: Uterque

NEW BOYS IN TOWN ________

They are young. Exotic. Models. Portuguese born and raised. And they have the world literally at their feet. There is a new wave of Portuguese models conquering the top international catwalks.

Portuguese Soul announces the new wave of talent with enviable career prospects.

FRANCISCO FARIA Winner of the Model Tour Portugal in 2013, and with a remarkably Latin look, Francisco Faria recently won over the creative double act known as D&G, for whom he modelled at La Scala, in Milan. In Portugal he has modelled for the leading fashion designers. With a promising track record at an international level, he is one of Karacter’s sure bets.

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JOAQUIM ARNEL It was when he finished a photography workshop with Joaquim Arnell was only 15 when he set foot on the ModaLisboa runway for the first time. Following just a few days later was his debut at Portugal Fashion And he has never stopped since.

No more than a year went by. And Joaquim, who makes his exotic looks his calling card, got his hands on the most coveted passport to success for many models; to be part of the Prada runway show on an exclusive basis. Today, he is part of the select world of the prestigious Italian label. <<

RACHIDE Originally from Guinea-Bissau, just like two other major international models of today Armando and Fernando Cabral, We Are Models discovered Rachide at 18, during a studio visit. He has never again left the fashion spotlight and catwalks. In Paris with Lanvin, he reached the highest point of an until this moment short career. This was followed by several campaigns for well-known names of national and international fashion. Rachide is one of the new faces of Portuguese fashion being avidly followed. >>

FĂ BIO TAVARES Represented by Face Models, he was until very recently a complete unknown. He modelled for Balmain and came across a host of new opportunities. From one moment to the next, the international fashion world discovered FĂĄbio Tavares. Y-3, Vivienne Westwood and Kenzo are already part of the curriculum of the promising Portuguese model.

(Photo: Frederico Martins for WAM Magazine) <<

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FRANCISCO HENRIQUES

HÉLDER AFONSO

From Almada and only 22 years old, Francisco Henriques’s career began in 2013 with the national Fresh Faces Models competition. Since then the career and portfolio of Francisco, Kiko to his friends, have continued to grow at a national and international level.

Originally from Bragança and at 23, Hélder Afonso began his modelling career just four years ago. During this period he worked for brands such as Mike Davis, Fashion Clinic and Takko, and took part in editorials for Wink, GQ Brasil, Elle Czech Republic, Up and Shangay Style.

After just four years he is already the face of several campaigns and lookbooks for labels such as Dsquared2, Harvey Nichols, Salsa, Tiffosi, Quebramar and MO. Other international labels are already on the horizon.

Fashion is his priority. Kiko is one of the most promising names of the new generation of models from Central Models, the agency that gave us names such as Luís Borges and Sara Sampaio. In this last season, Francisco Henriques was very visible in the Fashion Weeks of Milan and Paris, modelling for several houses of the highest repute.

The last edition of Milan Fashion Week was a high point for Hélder. After participating in the Fall-Winter 2017 show for Dolce & Gabbana, the model again walked for the label at the fantastic La Scala theatre, where the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Santoria line was introduced.

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D I O G O M I RA N DA ________

SUCCESS IN FABULOUS EXCESS Words: Irina Chitas

This is a woman. A proud, deeply sensual woman. A sexy woman. By day, she can be seen wearing sneakers, an oversized but well-cut poplin shirt, her gorgeous messy hair reflecting what’s going on in her head. She goes home, puts some music on, pours herself a glass of red wine, runs a bath. She opens her closet, reaches for her high heels and that dress – the short silk number with bare shoulders and long sleeves – and takes them out for a spin. She comes back in the morning, still wearing her heels, that dress, and that same messy hair.

Ten years ago, Diogo Miranda became a brand. He began designing for this woman, who might be a banker, a socialite, an artist. No matter what she does, she can never be called uptight.

Diogo Miranda started off, and still is, designing for powerful women, fearless women, those who know Yves, Christian and Raf by their first names. The ones who create style, who create trends whenever they walk outside the house, without even paying much attention to how they look. Or do they?

This is so evident in his latest collection that it almost hurts – the good kind of pain, obviously. Miranda’s woman has been growing up with him, gaining confidence, fine-tuning her choices, clearing out her closet. For the autumn of 2017, she is feeling a little Guy Bourdin. A little 80’s. A little excessive. A lot Diogo Miranda.

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He always had it in him. Growing up in the shoe factories of Felgueiras, with a profound awareness of all things aesthetic and a deep respect for architecture, it was no wonder that his name has become a regular feature on Portugal’s fashion calendar.

But, unlike many of his peers, he did not start off with high hopes and dreams, and had no sense of what it takes to become a brand. Within ten years, he has become one of Portugal’s most successful designers, mostly because he is so tuned into what it takes to be successful. It’s not just about making beautiful clothes – although this is a major part of it. It takes sacrifice, countless hours at the office, and the coolest partner of them all (the strikingly beautiful Helena Pereira), who not only has the marketing genius that took them beyond borders, she also has a profound sense of femininity, boldness, and fun. They have fun together, and it shows.

A collection must be a materialisation of the soul, and every three months or so, Miranda pours his heart out in the form of oversized bomber jackets, mini dresses, extreme volume and lighter-than-air silks that not only make us swoon, but sell well, too, all over the world. For a dreamer, he is extremely down-toearth. He has a strong presence and a sweet voice, but never loses the sparkle in his eyes, almost as if he is constantly analysing everything around him, as if he is constantly creating inside a mind that never sleeps. A true dreamer never sleeps.

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TOUJOURS PA R I S ________

Photos: Frederico Martins Styling: Nelly Gonรงalves

Shoes: Centenรกrio; Coat and Trousers: Lanvin; Turtleneck: Zadig & Voltaire

Shoes: Tony Miranda; Jacket: Drome; TShirt: Lanvin; Trousers: Drome; Hat: Cerruti 1881

Coat: Lanvin; Turtleneck: Zadig & Voltaire

Total Look: Zadig & Voltaire

Shoes: Dark Collection; Total Look: Zadig & Voltaire

Shoes: Wolf & Son; Total Look: Versace

Shoes: Ambitious; Total Look: Lanvin

108 PORTUGUESE SOUL Coat, Shirt, Turtleneck: Lanvin; Denim Trousers: Zadig & Voltaire Shoes: Carlos Santos;

Total Look: Lanvin

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Shoes: J Reinaldo; Total Look: Lanvin

Shoes: Valuni; Total Look: Cerruti 1881

Shoes: Urbanfly; Bag: Marta Ponti ; Total Look: Cerruti 1881

Photographer assistant: Thomas Clodine-Florent; Model: Frederico Novello “New Madison”; Groomer: Yoana TG “The Art Board”; Production: Emilie Couput and Jeanne Schmitt; Retouching: Lalaland Studios

R U B E N R UA ________

THE WILL TO GET AHEAD

He is one of Portugal’s most renowned creative professionals in the area of fashion. He began as a model and took part in the fashion weeks of Milan and Paris, where he walked for names such as Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Bottega Veneta, Gianfranco Ferre and Jean Paul Gaultier. These days he impresses as a booker for Elite. He first appeared on television as a spokesperson for APICCAPS and on the programme What´s Up – Olhar a Moda for RTP2, but it’s on TVI that he has really come into his own.

Ruben Rua has once again show us his entrepreneurial spirit by launching, with André Opticas, an exclusive eyewear collection called Capítulo III. This meeting of minds has been forged in a collection based on a unisex model in acetate, available in three different colours, each with three unique options of distinctive lenses.

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T H E RED WOLF ________

WAKING YOUR IMAGINATION Words: ClĂĄudia Pinto

To bring the blank white walls in every home to life, by creating images that are both graphic and imaginative. That is the source of inspiration for the design and illustration of Red Wolf. Women, animals, states of mind: every creation is a fresh challenge, a new world. The golden rule is to let the imagination steer creativity.

In this case, the computer is the canvas on which the images are drawn, be it for fans of their work, collectors or occasionally fashion brands, who directly commission the kind of illustration they want. In its portfolio, Red Wolf has illustrated blogs, maps and evenâ&#x20AC;Ś wine labels.

Filipe Duarte, a young designer from Porto and a graduate in Graphic Design, always knew art and creativity would be a guiding force in his life. And so, in 2016, after joining forces with Joana Campos e Silva (a specialist in business strategy and fashion brand development), these two young people launched themselves on the illustration market.

In just one year, the brand has won over new clients both home and abroad, in Canada, the United States, Korea, Switzerland and Portugal - and promises to continue to inspire all the fans of the young wolf.

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A WELL KEP T SECRET ________

Photos: Ricardo Santos Styling: JoĂŁo Pombeiro

Sandals: JJ Heitor Shirt: Filipe FaĂ­sca Pants: Diogo Miranda Earrings: Outra Face da Lua Sunglasses Vintage

Over knee boots: Miguel Vieira; Harness: Bijoux Indiscrets

Boots: Luís Onofre

Dress: Juan Vidal

Robe: Juan Vidal; Socks: Calzedonia

Boots: Eureka; Suit: Miguel Vieira; Hat: LuĂ­s Buchinho; Earrings: Outra Face da Lua

Shoes: Eureka; Robe: Juan Vidal; Socks: Calzedonia

Shoes: Perlato vs Nuno Baltazar; Skirt: Diogo Miranda

Shoes: Luís Onofre; Suit: Juan Vidal; Bra: Triumph by Filipe Faísca; Earrings: Outra Face da Lua

Production: Helena Silva ‘Snowberry’ assisted by Joana Castro Make-up: Patrícia Lima assisted by Ana Raquel Ribeiro Hair: Rui Rocha Models: Zara Bicha ‘Elite Lisbon’ Dress: Luís Carvalho

CARLOS GI L ________

AUTOPSY OF A FASHION SHOW Words and Photos: Clรกudia Pinto

B

rilliant. Absolutely brilliant. Among swallows, turtles, furs, lace and glitter, emerging from between clothes racks and fittings, Carlos Gil prepares himself for the unveiling of his winter 2017 collection in what is considered to be the international capital of fashion. At this time of year with Milan playing host to the best creativity it has to offer, backstage or in the spotlight, magic is happening far from prying eyes, behind the curtains.

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The day before, hundreds of models, the sound of busy heels on the production room floor and an anxious rumble of voices indicate the preparation for lights up on the catwalk, the excitement and hope for success building with every carefully planned step. But it is 1900 kilometres away from the catwalks of Milan, nestled in the hills of Fundão that weeks before, each step in preparation for the big day is put into place.

Carlos is a perfectionist, knowing the exact length of every hem, the number of sequins in each jacket, and which model is wearing what meticulously conceived outfit. This winter is to be young at heart, inspired by a childlike imagination demonstrated in eccentric patterns and acrylic appliqués.

“I felt like having fun with fashion. I don’t take it too seriously. Often when we are creating, it’s only afterwards we realise how serious we’re all being. With this collection I really wanted to reinvent myself.”

person to me. In life we place as much value on what’s inside as what we see at face value: we find a person’s outer appearance attractive, but in the end it’s what inside that captivates us. It can’t be any other way: my clothes have to have quality finishes and the insides have to impress my clients as much as the outside.”

Aside from the exuberant colours intended for grey days, it’s the choice of materials and artistry that catch the eye. But what one cannot see up on the catwalk, it’s backstage that the attention and work going into the lining and finishes of the outfits becomes clear. Jackets lined with the same desire for perfection as when buttoned up. “The interior of an item of clothing is like a

Back inside, once the protagonists are in their outfits, they get into line. The backstage managers bellow haughtily, as Carlos weaves between the models checking every last millimetre of material. The lights go down. The first model appears and the fear fades away.

Back to Milan, the final two hours leading up to the catwalk presentation are abuzz, making sure everything is ready for the unveiling. Hairdryers can be heard, powder brushes dart over serious-faced sculpturesque models. The outfits are fitted to perfection, the hems checked again, the appliqués in place.

A screen downstage shows the room filling up with photographers, bloggers, journalist and buyers, where just half an hour before models were familiarising themselves with the space.

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RICARDO Overcoat: InĂŞs Torcato; Hoodie: Adidas X Alexander Wang At Wrongweather.net

FRESH BLOOD ________

Photos Celso Colaรงo Styling Fernando Bastos Pereira

JOÃO Overcoat, Shirt and Trousers: Inês Torcato

MARCOS Shoes: Perks; Top: Dino Alves; Trousers: David Catalรกn

JOร O and BRANDON Total Look: David Catalรกn

RICARDO Shoes: Nobrand; Trousers: InĂŞs Torcato

MARCOS Shoes: Ambitious; Overcoat and Jumper: Inês Torcato; Trousers: David Catalán

Shoes: No Studio; Dress: Outra Face da Lua; Lace Bra: Triumph; Coat: Stylist own

MARCOS and BRANDON Shoes: Last Sole; Total Look: Dino Alves

JOร O Shoes: GinoB; Jacket and Trousers: David Catalรกn

JOÃO and RICARDO Total look: Inês Torcato; Hoodie: Adidas X Alexander Wang At Wrongweather.net

BRANDON Shoes: Exceed Shoe Thinkers; Jacket: David Catalán; Trousers: Inês Torcato; Hoodie: Adidas

Production: Cláudia Pinto ‘APICCAPS’ Photography assistant: Carlos Cirilo Styling assistant: Nelson Lima Make-up: Helena Almeida Hair: Zé Carlos Taipa with Lupa Styling Models: Brandon Riet ‘L’Agence’, João Lima ‘Central Models’, Marcos Wu ‘Karacter’ Agency’, Ricardo Gomes ‘Blast Models’ Special Thanks to Museu Internacional de Escultura Contemporânea de Santo Tirso RICARDO Shoes: Nobrand; Jacket: David Catalán; Trousers: Inês Torcato

CREATIVITY HAS A NAME AND THAT NAME IS ________

M O DA LI S B OA Words: Catarina Vasques Rito Photos: ModaLisboa

T

he FW 2017 collections of some of Portugalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most interesting designers, took to the runway at BelĂŠm Cultural Centre (CCB) last March. Ideas, suggestions and wardrobe must-haves, all conceived and made to dress fashion fans who hold in high regard the talent behind products designed and made in Portugal. Moda Lisboa is where excellence is order of the day, in the never-ending quest for top quality and talent among those who have chosen fashion design as their career...

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The home-grown fashion industry has a one-of-a-kind launchpad called ModaLisboa. As the initiative’s general coordinator Eduarda Abbondanza tells us, this is a platform created by and for fashion designers, opening doors for all those with proven talent or still looking to find their feet in the industry. Celebrating its quarter century, it is here to prove that creative talent does indeed exist in the land of Camões, often withstanding a bleak retail or creative climate while avoiding the pitfalls of old-fashioned economic models, in a country that often shows little desire to support its artistic and cultural capital. After six years and 12 editions at Pátio da Galé, the Moda Lisboa organisation decided to move to a new house and set up shop temporarily at the Centro Cultural de Belém (CCB) in a change of setting that is part of the platform’s strategic plan to head in October this year to its possible future home, the renovated Pavilhão Carlos Lopes. “After more than half a decade at Pátio da Galé, it was time for a change. The Pavilhão Carlos Lopes is to be our next official location, for the first time ever. Only following the next edition will we know for sure if the space is ideal for us or if we need to move again”, explained Eduarda Abbondanza to Portuguese Soul magazine, confident that the move to a new space helps to “increase public interest in the conversation about fashion, calling for new settings and scenographies”, while opening the door to alternative projects such as the Global Fashion Exchange. 25 thousand visitors, spread over the four days of the event, show how the desire to discover, experience and enjoy Portuguese fashion is still a great draw for those directly or indirectly involved with the industry, essentially inspiring and contributing to the recognition of the talent found in Portugal, in the desire to reach out to those who have the potential to embrace and become consumers of Portuguese fashion.

17 shows were the calling card for the fall-winter collections 2017-18, divided between the two spaces of the CCB, the Garagem Sul and the Museu Joe

Berardo, galvanising the merely curious and industry figures, as well as potential buyers and the specialist press. Boundless creativity is wedded to a firm notion of how to produce saleable items for internal and external consumers and in the case of the latter, nothing matters more than the opinion of journalists from all kinds of international markets. To take part in Moda Lisboa requires that every brand/creative project bid is thoroughly elaborated, in terms of the creative talent involved or the proposal for participation, and can be assigned to one of three areas: Sangue Novo, Plataforma LAB and the main stage. “Our organisation is willing to analyse every proposal that we get,” insists the general-coordinator of Moda Lisboa.

The 48th edition, a who’s who of what to wear for the coming cold season, was once again a showcase for the creativity of brands Ricardo Preto, Nuno Gama, Lidija Kolovrat, Ricardo Andrez, Filipe Faisca, David Ferreira, Eureka and Luis Carvalho, sometimes more inventive and alternative, and other times more conservative but equally impressive for staying true to their vision, supported by a choice in materials that enhanced the tailoring of each collection. Also worth mentioning were the designer and commercial brand footwear collections, where attention to design was all the more apparent and, once again, the emphasis on quality materials which are key to the local consumer looking to “buy Portuguese”. Platforms such as ModaLisboa increase our awareness of the leading lights of the designer fashion scene, reaching out directly to consumers who could potentially seek out the collections of these designers and spend money. But ModaLisboa has another purpose and that is to promote different kinds of initiatives which can be found in the WonderRoom. From clothing to contemporary jewellery, footwear to decor, accessories to male grooming products, new or established lines that are commercially produced or handmade, each project is determined to be seen and continue to show how our creativity knows no bounds.

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At the last edition of ModaLisboa, the Global Fashion Exchange was there asking all visitors to take more care of the environment, by inviting them to bring old clothes they no longer wore and exchange them for others. The initiative was a great success with men and women of all ages, where the participantsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; capacity for curiosity and enthusiasm and a little chaos - was in evident supply. Partnering once again with this project or with another along similar lines is a distinct possibility, said the general coordinator of ModaLisboa, Eduarda Abbondanza.

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FALL/WINTER 2017/18

INFO@JJHEITORSHOES.COM WWW.JJHEITORSHOES.COM

SANGUE NOVO ________

THE NEW FUTURE OF FASHION DESIGNERS Words: Catarina Vasques Rito Photos: ModaLisboa

Sangue Novo (“New Blood”) is the place to go to discover the latest techniques and design concepts in Portuguese fashion.

March’s edition singled out the young designer João Oliveira, creator of the “Society” collection, for an award.

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One of the highlights of ModaLisboa, and Portugal Fashion too, is the space dedicated to presenting projects from the newest generations on the Portuguese fashion scene. Sangue Novo of Moda Lisboa showcased eight talents, of which João Oliveira won first prize. At just 23 years of age, this young designer who entered the competition with the winning collection “Society”, inspired by motorways but “in an ironic sense, of slowdown”, never believed he might win first prize, a fact which he at moments found “surprising”, but once he got over his initial shock it led him to take stock of the situation, and understand it was an opportunity to “validate all the hard work that went into it, and the extreme satisfaction for all the effort, dedication and toil,” he confessed to Portuguese Soul.

His collection “Society” is a casual streetwear style for both men and women who have no time for preconceptions or conservative opinions, but do have the time and desire to wear the fashion fantasies of João Oliveira. The Sangue Novo/Moda Lisboa award, worth five thousand euros, is complemented by a course offered by the Italian fashion school Domus Academy. “This opportunity will be one more tool to help me in my work, since I chose the Digital Strategy for Creative Industries course. I hope to learn new things while enjoying the experience of a culture very similar to our own, but with great differences also. I plan to make sure I get the most from it, and take in everything I can. I’m open to new experiences, and ready for an adventure. We should all of us make use of what is around us to grow as people and as professionals,” emphasised this young man, who will also get the chance to sell his collection in Feeting Room stores in Lisbon and Porto.

But this is not João Oliveira’s debut for Sangue Novo, having been chosen last year to represent Portugal in Maastricht, Holland, at the Sound Clash Festival.

When we asked him if it is still possible to be original and different in fashion, João Oliveira did not hesitate to answer that it depends on the eye of the beholder. He believes this is an age where everything gets remixed, and where fashion remains too constrained by the human body, while it is true there are brilliant minds out there, capable of creating new and original ideas for the good of the profession. This edition of Sangue Novo also gave two honourable mentions to Rita Afonso, chosen this year to go to Sound Clash, and Alexandre Pereira.

Initiatives such as this one sponsored by ModaLisboa to find new talents with a bright future in Portuguese fashion are worthy of our praise, because to experiment you need to show, try things out and be daring. Moda Lisboa above all aims to offer an opportunity for those who dream of making fashion design their chosen profession. Giving them support is the important first step towards ensuring their recognition within and beyond the fashion scene in Portugal.

Since 2013, each edition has been a showcase for projects of undeniable value, such as Olga Noronha, Joaquim Correia, Catarina Oliveira, HIBU, Cristina Real, Nair Xavier, Inês Duvale, David Catalán, Duarte, Banda, Carolina Machado, João Barriga, João Oliveira, Micaela Sapinho, Patrick De Pádua, Rita Afonso, Alexandre Pereira and Mariana Prudêncio. Names who have worked hard to show us their vision, forging a creative path which one hopes will lead to success and public recognition, in Portugal and beyond. Also worth mentioning is the effort these young talents often put into building a collection, seeking a place in the spotlight to grant them a future in an area which is still undervalued in Portugal, whether from an economic or logistic point of view. Any award is important, especially if it comes with some kind of financial reward. Once again, congratulations to ModaLisboa, and its “New Blood”!

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THE GODDESS ________

AMILNA ESTEVÃ&#x192;O Words: Irina Chitas Photos: Frederico Martins

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Much ink has been spilt about Amilna Estevão. The list of compliments is almost as long as her sky-high legs; she has walked more miles on the catwalk than we will ever walk on an aeroplane; she has been more photographed than any Hollywood diva. Bottom-line: this girl is incredibly famous, highly treasured, very much in demand.

By now, you all know her name. Also by now, you all know very well about the Vogue and CR Fashion Book spreads, the T Magazine covers, the Tom Ford and YSL campaigns. You know she was born in Angola and, by the age of 14, won the Elite Models competition, and won third place at the Elite Model Look World Final in 2013 – and you also know she made history there: for the first time since the competition began 30 years ago, a black model was in the top three. You may also know that she dreamed of being a flight attendant, but gave that up to walk for Alexander Wang, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Giambattista Valli, Balenciaga or Prada – just to name a few.

But what we really wanted to tell you is something you might not know. We want – if we are able to put that into words – to describe the feeling of being in the same room as Amilna. It’s a feeling you don’t get with any other model in the world.

At first, it feels like you’ve come home.

Even if she doesn’t know you, she’ll hug you and introduce herself with a smile.

Then, it feels easy. Everything feels easy.

Laughing feels easy, because she is always,

always laughing, most of the time she’s laughing at herself, which seems to be a long-lost talent among most models – everybody seems to take themselves too seriously nowadays, but not her. Talking feels easy, because she won’t stop moving and talking, gesticulating with her hands and arms all over the place. Moving feels easy, because she does it with such grace, such tenderness, like a ballerina, every step light as air. Working feels easy, because even after six hours of posing in front of a camera – the picture of perfection and grace, we might add – she is ready to add another seven or eight hours of walking the runway to her schedule. And loving, most of all, loving feels easy, because with this girl, it’s all about love. The smooth tone of her voice, her loud goofiness, her glowing ebony skin, every pore of that goddess body feels like it is made to love, every hour of every day. Being in the same room as Amilna Estevão is forgetting you are looking at a supermodel and wanting so badly to be her friend, to share that energy. She reminds you that you can be anything you want, and still be kind at the same time.

PORTUGAL FA S H I O N ________

Words and Photos: Irina Chitas

After touring the main international fashion capitals, Portugal Fashion returned home with all its baggage and presented 4 days of what national creativity is made of. Thirty-six shows in total, in four emblematic buildings and 25,000 spectators brought to life another celebration of the best Portugal has to offer.

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T

he first day in Lisbon saw Storytailors, Pedro Pedro, Hibu, Alexandra Moura and Alves e Gonçalves in one of Siza Vieira’s most brilliant creations: the Portugal Pavilion. Pedro Pedro, who had just arrived back from the Milan fashion show, presented Dune, a reinterpretation of the David Lynch universe in a collection that refers to the restlessness of the other world.

The closing of the shows in the capital was left to the experienced pair Alves and Gonçalves. Taking the “shirt” as a starting point, oversize pieces, straight cuts and asymmetries predominated.

Lace, nets, georgettes, chiffon, silk and cotton, with technical finishes, were the most prominent materials.

Porto hosted the second day of Fashion Week, at the CTT Palace. This day was solely devoted to the collections of young designers, in a historic Bloom initiative. The project was created in October 2010 in order to support, publicise and enhance young Portuguese designers at home and abroad. It is now in its 27th edition. The platform has served as a launch pad for countless young talents in the national and international arena. A total of 35 young designers and 6 new brands participated in this edition.

Luís Onofre’s show is to be noted: the shoe designer presented men’s proposals for the first time. In a reinvention of the classics, Luís again caused the room to hold its breath, both for men’s and women’s designs.

After debuting in New York, Miguel Vieira presented an allusion to Africa in the north of Portugal, with his “África Minha” (Out of Africa) collection.

Alfândega do Porto hosted the shows of Miguel Vieira, Diogo Miranda and Luís Onofre on the third day. But, long before the sun had set over the water of the River Douro, Susana Bettencourt, Júlio Torcato and Hugo Costa had all presented on the main catwalk of Portugal Fashion. After presenting a part of the collection at the Paris Men’s Fashion Week last June, Hugo Costa once again caused surprise in the presentation of his show, as had been the case the previous edition.

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W H AT D O E S A P E R F U M E R SMELL LI KE? ________

Words: Cláudia Pinto The fusion of aromas is almost mysterious. We found Lourenço Lucena in a designer perfumery.

He is the only Portuguese in the French society of perfumers and he dedicates his life to the creation of new aromas.

But, what exactly does a perfumer smell like?

“It can smell of nothing and of your daily perfume. This is because the scent of a perfume on a person’s body can influence the creation of a new scent. When I’m creating I do not wear perfumes. When I’m not working I use one of my many perfumes.

I have a cupboard full of bottles that I choose according to the day I’m going to have.”

Smell is as old as man. It was used primitively as a means of protection. Later the use of perfumes symbolised the sacred and divine protection. “Many centuries ago, smell was the human sense we used most and valued most. However, the evolution of the species has meant that smell is hardly put to work today. Smell is the first human sense we activate at birth. We have just come into the world from inside our mothers and the nurses places us on top of our mothers to smell her. The truth is that if we start to smell everything around us, our life becomes more vivid. Everything gives off a scent, and if we have our ‘olfactory lens’ switched on it is easier to create new bonds with life around us. Working on our aroma and sense of smell makes our lives more fun.”

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Lourenço Lucena launched Blug in 2001, a marketing agency that has always sought to stand out from the competition by exploring the five senses in the creation of brand identity. Lourenço, without the know-how to move forward, discovered Cinquième Sens, a school in Paris specialised in the multisensory area. Lourenço’s training culminated with him joining the well-known Société Française de Parfumeurs.

“I would say that perfumes are magical and help us create an impression of ourselves in society. Just as every day I think about what I’m going to wear depending on where I’m going and who I’m going to be with, perfumes should also be chosen on a daily basis. It’s another layer we have of our self. Today I may be happy, but not tomorrow. It may be sunny or raining, and all this can influence the clothes I wear, right? So it should be the same thing with perfumes.”

Since training in Paris, the professional universe of the perfumer has taken him from marketing to L’Parfumeur, where he creates personalised perfumes for brands and private clients. But, what makes a person want a personalised perfume? “It is essentially the exclusivity and the opportunity to have a perfume that was created just for you. It ends up being the pinnacle of luxury and exclusivity. People love something that would out of reach for most.”

“After the mental briefing about the person or the company, I set out to choose the raw materials. Then I begin the formulation: what amounts will I use of each one? What is the result of the aroma when they are all mixed together? And then I start adjusting. It takes dozens ... or even hundreds of attempts before I say: that’s it! It is a process that can take days, weeks or even months.

It is just like a painter painting a canvas, he only ends the job when he feels it is completed”.

“The inspiration for an aroma can start from a love story, a memory of a journey or even an emotion, which will serve as a hook for me to start creating and choosing the best raw materials to tell this story. When it is for a person, it is best to get to know them well and the story they want to tell. This requires in-depth knowledge about the person: what perfumes have they used? What music do they listen to? What car do they drive? What are their favourite colours? What do they eat? Who do they get on with? This helps to create a profile; a sensory portrait that serves as my base. The raw materials are the characters and it’s my job to make them interact, just like in a Hollywood movie, in order to get a happy ending. The big challenge is the starting point in order to get to the raw materials.”

Nowadays, the perfume industry is bigger than the entire film industry. Hundreds of scents come out every month, but what’s the secret of the bestsellers that remain at the top of sales tables for years and years? “There is a set of dynamics created around the perfume. Often the reason for success is the start system that was created over dozens of years and that had auspicious moments that helped create this magical idea about the perfume. If the perfume is bad, it will not sell more. That’s a certainty.

But promotion is very important: who were the public figures that lent their face to the perfume? What type of launch was done? This is very important for the rollout of the perfume. On the day that Marilyn Monroe said she could go naked but could not be without Chanel No. 5, for example, was the moment when Chanel was definitely the talk of the world. There are perfumes that are truly timeless and that remain at the top for dozens of years.

J’Adore, for example, is a special perfume with a very consistent aura and one that women identify with.”

Shelves filled with hundreds of small bottles with aromas.

From water to spices, from flowers to earth, the smell is inebriating. The secret of a good perfumer is to adapt the raw materials to the characteristics of the person and the situation. And, of course, have a good olfactory memory. There are no rules or guidelines for an aromatic composition. An average perfume can have 25-30 raw materials. But there are more complex perfumes that can have up to 70.

Nowadays, in addition to personalised creations, Lourenço also organises scented dinners. This is an innovative concept where, together with a chef, a dinner is prepared combining aromas and flavours underlying a specific theme, with the objective of stimulating smell and taste.

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AROUND T H E WORLD ________

PORTUGUESE SHOES

The second semester of 2017 is going to be iconic for the sexiest industry in Europe, with a record of 200 footwear companies that will attend promotional events throughout the five continents.

For the Portuguese footwear to go even further in 2017, APICCAPS has planned the biggest promotional offensive of the sector in external markets.

The continuous growth of the Portuguese footwear over the years is the result of a long-term internationalization strategy. In the second semester of 2017, Portuguese footwear companies will invest in several external markets like China, Colombia, Japan, Russia or United States. Europe will be, also, a priority with a strong presence in fairs such as Gallery, Micam, Momad or Expo Riva Schuh.

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Dress: Lidija kolovrat; Earings: UterqĂźe

THE PERKS OF BEING A MURDER ________

Photos: Sérgio Santos Styling: Cláudia Barros

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Shoes: Fly London; Shirt: Balenciaga in Fashion Clinic; Jewellery: AndrĂŠs Gallardo at lesfill.es

Top and bomber jacket: David Catalรกn; Ring: Topman

Bag: Elenco; Glasses: Marc Jacobs; Shirt: Givenchy in Fashion Clinic

Shoes: Nobrand; TShirt: Gucci in Fashion Clinic; Skirt: Cheap Monday; Socks: Mango

Bag: Elenco; Glasses: Marc Jacobs; Shirt: Givenchy in Fashion Clinic; Trousers: Alexandre Pereira

Coat: David Ferreira

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Shoes: Felmini; Coat: David Ferreira; Shirt and Trousers: Alexandre Pereira

Shoes: PintoDi Blu; Dress: Ã&#x20AC;s de Espadas; Coat: Cheap Monday; Earings: Uterque

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Shoes: PintoDi Blu; Dress: Ã&#x20AC;s de Espadas; Earings: Uterque

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Directors assistant: Guilherme Vieira Photography assistant: Sara Vitória Make-up: Inês Aguiar Hair: Rui Rocha Models: Inês Carvalho and Sija Tiko ‘We are Models’

Shoes: PintoDi Blu; Dress: Às de Espadas; Earings: Uterque

Shoes: Dkode; Trousers: David Ferreira

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ANSELMO 1910 ________

A JEWELLERY COLLECTION FOR MEN DESIGNED BY RICARDO PEREIRA Words: Ilídia Pinto

Ricardo Pereira by Anselmo 1910 is the most recent collection of the hundred-year-old Portuguese jewellers, which has joined forces with the celebrated actor to create two distinct lines consisting of cufflinks, bracelets for men and key chains, one in silver and brown leather and the other in silver and rubber. Sophisticated and elegant with clean lines, these pieces can be worn with any outfit. “They are on trend for the man of today, who is more interested in accessories he can wear on a day to day basis and not just for special occasions. We sought to create objects for a more modern and sophisticated man, more interested and in tune with fashion and his aesthetic sense,” explained Ricardo Pereira.

Anselmo 1910, one of the oldest jewellery companies in the country, chose its Porto store for the unveiling of the collection. Located right by Clérigos and the centennial Livraria Lello, it is the only one of the five Anselmo 1910 stores dedicated exclusively to the retail of home-grown goldsmithery and jewellery. A way to pay homage to the tradition of this art in the region. Bruno da Rocha, Monseo Jewels, Rose Blossom, Mater Jewellery Tales, Romeu Bettencourt and of course, Ricardo Pereira are just some

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of the jewellery designers and brands available at Anselmo 1910. “It is with great pride that we see how Portuguese jewellery is now being discovered by the rest of the world,” said Nuno Torres, great-grandson of the founder of Anselmo 1910 and current CEO of the company.

This is Ricardo Pereira’s first incursion into the art of jewellery design. And the choice of this hundred-yearold Torres Vedras company was not by chance. “It is a brand that means a great deal to me.” It has history, vitality, longevity and a very clear DNA. It knows where it came from and where it wants to go. It is a brand which I am thrilled to be associated with due to its history, but above all, for its capacity to always be reinventing itself,” emphasised the actor.

Besides its classic designer and haute jewellery pieces, Anselmo 1910 also retails its themed collections such as the Porto and Lisboa lines, based on the monuments and emblems of both cities, and the Azulejos and Fernando Pessoa collections, the latter in homage to the writer and poet born in the very same building from where Anselmo 1910 now operates, in the Chiado district of Lisbon.

DA N I EL G O R JÃO ________

ALL THE SOUL’S A STAGE Words: Cláudia Pinto

He likes to live his life on the stage. He’s 30, and began his adult life as a contemporary dancer, a passion which took him from the Portuguese interior to the capital. This was followed by acting work for the Teatro Politeama, where he remained for seven years working with Filipe La Féria.

Immediately following this he studied at the Conservatory, where he soon realised treading the boards was not for him. He quickly relinquished the spotlight to take on the most feared job of all in show business, that of stage director. Theatre is his “great love”, as he tends to say and the critics have praised him as one of the talents to watch out for. Welcome Daniel Gorjão!

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He has staged work at the Dona Maria National Theatre, founded the collective Rosa 74 Teatro and in 2014, the Teatro do Vão. He is currently staging “Júlia”, based on Strindberg’s classic Miss Julie, where love and the question of social barriers hold sway. “What matters is the driving force behind this passion (between Jean and Julie), the raw desire which draws us to each other like wild animals and breaks down any barrier in our way, to find the other and ultimately ourselves.”

He also works extensively for television, as casting director for RTP2 and performing arts consultant.

He also finds time to be director of the programme What’s Up – Olhar a Moda.

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VHILS A REFERENCE IN STREET ART ________

Words: Patrícia Gonçalves

A

lexandre Farto is the name of one of the most prolific visual artists in the world of street art. You may ask why you have never heard of him. It’s actually almost impossible to miss him!

Vhils, as he is known, has already been the subject of the CNN programme “Ones To Watch” and has directed, on U2’s personal request, the video for the track “Raised by Wolves”.

He began painting the walls of streets and trains on the south banks of the Tagus river when he was just 13. Today, at 30, the work of Vhils is a reference in street art on a global scale. Madrid, London, Paris, Moscow, Bogota, Mexico, Macau, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Bangkok have already born witness to the anonymous faces Alexandre Farto draws on the walls of their city streets. This is what Vhils does.

The technique consists of creating images on walls or murals, through the removal of layers of building materials, thus creating a negative image.

“By taking the image of a common citizen, an everyday hero, and granting this person a space of their own on the cityscape, this serves as a metaphor for our imprint upon the city, and the city on us. This cycle always interested me greatly, the chaos of the city

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and the way we have an impact upon things without realising. Working with chaos led me to working with destruction: build it up, pull it down. And on that journey we make every single day, suddenly there is a face on a wall we never noticed before, abandoned and left to its fate. Negative space suddenly becomes alive, being given the spotlight and serving a new purpose, while forcing people to think. Ultimately, you are reaching out to people, because we are all somehow the result of a chain of events”, says the artist in the interviews he gives.

The truth is that Vhils has caused quite a stir all across the world. Shepard Fairey, a street artist who is regarded as a legend in the United States, considers him to be “the first ever artist to work in such depth”. “Vhils was pioneer in a new form of expression and until now, nobody does it better”, thinks Fairey, who invited him to do the programme “Ones To Watch”, for CNN in 2014.

It was a springboard to even greater success.

That same year he was invited by one of the biggest rock bands in the world, U2 from Ireland, to direct the video for the song Raised by Wolves, included on the album Songs Of Innocence.

As part of an already vast range of work, special mention must go to the piece where the faces of two women, one young and the other old, look away from each other, that made the cover of the British Times newspaper, the BBC calling him “the Portuguese Banksy “, The Telegraph giving him the nickname “Andy Wall-hole” and The Guardian praising his work as among the ten best examples of street art in the world.

Despite being a global name, Vhils has not neglected his birthplace: Lisbon. And it is in the Portuguese capital that some of his most critically lauded work can be found, as is the case of the tribute to Amália Rodrigues, completed in 2015, which was the artist’s debut working in Portuguese calçada, or paving stone.

In 2016, he received the Personality of the Year award from the Foreign Press Association in Portugal, for his contribution to “promoting a positive image of the country abroad”.

Nowadays when we think of street art, we think of Vhils.

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MYSTERIOUS CLOWN ________

RUI PAIXÃO Words: Cláudia Pinto

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Rui. His passion, not for nothing also his surname, is the art of stagecraft, of entertaining, of making people laugh. And sometimes crying. He moves his body like other people move their hands. His is a face that is never still. After graduating from studies in Theatre Arts he created the project Cão à Chuva, and rapidly caught the attention of those who love the arts.

In his shows, anything can happen. He is no traditional clown. He doesn’t wear a red nose, and neither does he dress up in funny clothes. He’s not always there to make us laugh; you might even cry.

But he wholeheartedly believes in what drives his clowning around – the art of improvisation – where much more than a performance it is nothing but a game. A game where there are no rules.

In 2015, at the tender age of 22, he was the revelation of Imaginarius, the street theatre festival in Seville, winning the award for emerging artist. That was enough for Cirque du Soleil to come knocking at his door. He became the only Portuguese artist to belong to this glorious circus company. In Las Vegas, Rui gave his all in a unique, inspired performance, being one of the five actors to be chosen to play a clown among the 70 candidates vying for a place in the gigantic circus company.

“Lullaby” in 2015, “Pozzo, Vicente and the Old Woman” in 2016. 2017 promises to be an even better year for the actor who makes entire worlds out of nothing. For the time being, Rui is busy taking his different creations on tour around Europe, not to get stamps in his passport but in the desire to bring culture to the masses. Even when culture is a mirror of our habits, in all their simplicity.

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THE HOTSPOT OF HOTSPOTS ________

AMANDA LEVETE’S LISBON MUSEUM OPENS WITH A SINUOUS SWOOSH Words: Cláudia Pinto

T

he MAAT – Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology is a new cultural proposition for the city of Lisbon. A museum that combines these three fields in a space for debate, discovery, critical thinking and international dialogue. An innovative project that brings together a new building, designed by the architect Amanda Levete, and the Tejo Power Station, an example of Portuguese industrial architecture from the first half of the 20th century, and one of the most visited museums in the country.

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MAAT reflects the desire to present both national and international exhibitions with contributions from contemporary artists, architects and thinkers.

Contemplating great themes and current trends, the programming will also present diverse curatorial views on the EDP Foundation’s Art Collection.

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YOU CAN LEAVE YOUR HAT ON ________

Words: Sónia Santos Pereira

A

ccording to legend it was John Kennedy, the famously charismatic ex-president of the USA, who brought the popularity of hats to an end. In the 1960s his look was in strict contrast to the image of Humphrey Bogart in “Casablanca”, or popular North American singer Frank Sinatra, who regularly wore a kind of felt hat known as the Fedora or Borsalino, a renowned Italian brand. Times have changed and one can again say – as immortalised in the Portuguese film “A Canção de Lisboa” – “there are hats for all tastes”.

Johnny Depp is a “hat man”. The popular US actor has a true passion for hats and a collection in the hundreds. No one can say in good faith that they don’t suit him, be it the traditional Fedora, Panama or cap to more exotic pirate and cowboy hats. Depp loves the elegance and distinction each brings. He

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indulges in this fashion accessory like no other, to such an extent that he has been acknowledged by the centenarian Headwear Association as “Hat person of the year”.

The touch of tradition, eccentricity and sophistication that a hat bestows upon the wearer is converting menfolk to the cause.

Justin Timberlake, DJ Ashba (of the band Gun N´Roses), and Bruno Mars are just some of today’s aficionados of the hat.

The alternative dandy and hipster scenes have also adopted this fashion accessory. There is no doubt it adds a touch of distinction. But it’s important to know how to buy wisely.

“Portuguese Soul” walked the streets of Porto and stepped into three of the city’s millineries that are a reflection of history, tradition and modernity. For the discerning man or woman, as the song by Joe Cocker goes - “You can leave your hat on”.

Chapelaria José & Baião

Hats and C.A.T.S.

Chapelaria Costa Braga & Filhos

This house has already more than 120 years of experience in the making and selling of hats. José Baião, current owner and grandson of the founder, continues to make customised hats and sell famous international brands such as Stetson (US), Fernández y Roche (Spain) and Panizza (Italy).

Through the door typically walk men aged between 25 and 55, who understand a hat is an accessory that makes its wearer stand out, personalises our look and has to be of quality.

The newest addition to the millineries found in the city of Porto, defining itself as a shop appealing to cosmopolitan, traditional and simple tastes. Hats and C.A.T.S. (which does not refer to our feline friends, even if the daughter of the owner loves them, but to the aforementioned Cosmopolitan Articles Tradition and Simplicity) is located in the historic centre of Porto and enjoys a constant flow of visitors from abroad found wandering the streets there. Tourists are their main source of income, but this hat shop counts many Portuguese amongst its fans, always keen to check out the latest styles.

Chapelaria Costa Braga is nowadays the oldest hat shop in Porto, dating back to 1866 and the longgone Real e Imperial Chapelaria a Vapor Costa Braga & Filhos factory. In the annals of history, it once upon a time supplied hats for the Portuguese royal family, published a quarterly catalogue/ magazine entitled “A Moda” (“Fashion”), and was awarded the Comenda de Mérito, a Portuguese title recognising merit in industry. Today it is in the hands of Joaquim Oliveira and Carlos Barbosa, two old employees of the business who acquired the company from the offspring of the founders.

Paula Lobo, owner and fashion designer, opened the shop five years ago, after an enormous amount of research to get to know ‘in loco’ suppliers, manufacturers, and the industry in Portugal and abroad. As a young girl she loved hats and spectacles, the two fashion accessories she never does without, and thanks to her tastes saw a business opportunity. In her opinion, a hat is a quintessentially elegant fashion accessory, that can be used in many and varied settings, beach, town and country.

As partners, this duo has kept to the same business concept, the retail of Portuguese hats and caps and the manufacture by order of hats, insignia and chevrons, among other similar items. The Real e Imperial Chapelaria a Vapor factory has long since ceased to exist, but the business continues to operate in the bustling centre of the city, located at Rua 31 de Janeiro. Joaquim Oliveira stocks a number of different Panama hats, felt hats and caps manufactured in S. João da Madeira, the heart of the industry in Portugal. The hats are brisk sellers and a younger clientele continues to walk through the doors, but the stronghold of the business are the hats for the Portuguese military and police, as well as for the Portuguese-speaking African countries, where the brand became established thanks to the export of the so-called colonial hat to these shores.

The type of hat should not be limited to the choice of model, material or size. It is of the utmost importance to recognise which style suits us best, and know how to match it with the rest of our outfit. José Baião makes a point of emphasising that one of the calling cards of his millinery is the attention given to the customer, and advice given on the model, colour and material as well as how to take care of your hat.

José Baião remembers how until the 1970s this was an important business in the city, after which it went into decline with the avalanche of Chinesemade goods, but the 21st century has seen a revival in interest in this fashion accessory. About one year ago this businessman bet on opening another space, right in the heart of Porto. Noticeably, his clients continue to be mostly Portuguese born and bred.

Open from Monday to Friday, between 9 am and 6.30 pm (closed for lunch) Daily Day, from Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 7 pm

Hats and C.A.T.S. has taken a contemporary approach to millinery, selling the hats of a range of internationally made brands and materials such as toquilla straw (from Ecuador, where the material is produced and exported globally), rabbit felt, beaver, cashmere, cotton or raffia. Paula Lobo alongside her husband, Paulo Lobo (a well-known interior designer), also owns the store Lobo Taste, where other styles of hat can be found, always with the Lobo family seal of good taste.

Open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 7 pm (closed for lunch) and Saturday 10 am to 1 pm

Open Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 8 pm, Sunday 2 pm to 7 pm.

Lobo Taste, from Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 7.30 pm, Sunday 2 pm to 6.30 pm.

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OITO EM PONTO ________

LUXURY IN DECOR Words: Sรณnia Santos Pereira

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Travelling is essential to the work of Artur Miranda and Jacques Bec, the designers who founded Oitoemponto 24 years ago; an architectural and interior design firm based in Porto. From Riyadh to Senegal and Xi’an to Los Angeles, they scour the globe to learn about the known world and present us with the unknown. They go in search of inspiration and fresh viewpoints, while studying technical innovations and researching new materials. For them the element of surprise is everything. The Oitoemponto client is very well-travelled, wellinformed and wealthy. Artur Miranda and Jacques Bec have to always be one step ahead.

Oitoemponto currently have their hands full with the renovation and remodelling of a castle and winery, Château Saint-Maur, in the South of France. The project setting is 1930s and 40s in style (a period greatly appreciated by the owner), which can only be glimpsed after passing through an entrance which Artur Miranda and Jacques Bec want to be monumental in scale. The work envisions the addition of 12 personalised suites emphasising comfort and modernity, in an atmosphere redolent of the glamour of that 20th century period. For more than a year the designers have been purchasing decorative pieces for the castle, seeking works brimming with charisma as well as “patina”. As explained by this Portuguese-French designer duo, the renovation of the castle will be “an asset to the promotion of the Château Saint-Maur wines, which already compete with the champagne served on the beaches of St. Tropez”.

This project came to Oitoemponto thanks to the profound relationship that the company builds with its clients. This is one of their secrets. Artur Miranda and Jacques Bec do the work of therapists. They talk with their clients, listen to their desires and present ideas. All the initial work normally results in intimate relationships with their clients, and in lasting friendships. Roger Zannier, owner of Château Saint-Maur is an example of this. Oitoemponto has already signed on for other projects for Roger Zannier, such as the winery and estate of Quinta do Pessegueiro in the Douro Valley.

Mário Ferreira, a very well known entrepreneur in the business world is another of Oitoemponto’s faithful customers. It was to Artur Miranda and Jacques Bec’s taste that he entrusted the decor of the future Monumental Palace Hotel in Porto. This five-star project will stand out in the city for its retro look with Art Nouveau and Art Deco stylings, but without sacrificing an aura of modernity.

Mário Ferreira “had no desire to add just another large block”, reiterated Artur Miranda. The project is a luxury hotel, but it is a hotel that wants to interact directly with the city and its people.

Oitoemponto has its stamp on many buildings, some for private clients and others public, mostly in Portugal but also quite a few abroad. They are stories told in stone in Cascais, Algarve, Paris, São Paulo and Luanda. In Lisbon, the company has a “showroom” at the luxurious Hotel Ritz, and recently Oitoemponto Paris set up promotional office to support the work they do in France. “It has been 24 years of intense effort, stressed Artur Miranda, which Jacques Bec immediately went on to confirm; “This work is our passion, it would be impossible to make it work if there was no passion”. Work that has been rewarded with an invitation to be part of the selected exhibit AD Collections of the Modern Art Museum of the city of Paris, and with the company’s mention in the Louis Vuitton City Guides Lisbon.

The challenges never come to an end. Artur Miranda and Jacques Bec are now owners of the Fine & Candy stationary label, and decided to rethink its strategy. The Fine & Candy line is designed for all tastes and therefore one can find personalised writing pads with leather covers, and also the more traditional writing pads with cloth covers. “We want products that reflect all kinds of budgets while at the same time, we want our writing pads to look fashionable”, says Artur Miranda. The line is already found in several retail outlets in Portugal and abroad (16 markets), besides international online retail platforms such as Luisa Via Roma.

www.anahoryalmeida.com

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MONVERDE ________

A LUXURY HOTEL IN VINEYARDS Words: Ilídia Pinto

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A

mong the berries and vines of the Quinta da Lixa estate the Monverde Wine Experience Hotel has risen, the first wine hotel in the Vinho Verde region. Located at Quinta de Sanguinedo, between Felgueiras and Amarante, 60 kilometres from Porto and 360 from Lisbon, Monverde can be found on 30 hectares of wine-producing land, in perfect harmony with nature. It comes as no surprise then that the hotel, little more than a year old, has already won a number of international prizes, more precisely the Best of Wine Tourism 2016 and 2017 for Great Wine Capitals, in the categories of Architecture and Landscape, and Accommodation.

To enjoy a different kind of holiday experience or simply a weekend getaway far from the hustle and bustle of the city, Monverde offers a variety of options to suit every taste, with wine always the determining factor. Guests are invited to spend a day in the company of winegrowers, participating in the various activities that make up the lifecycle of the vine, from pruning to planting, or vine training to the final harvest. To sign off a picnic at the vineyard is held. If you prefer, you can try becoming a winemaker for a day, creating your own Vinho Verde, or take part in one of the many available tutored wine tastings, getting to know better the Vinho Verdes of the Quinta da Lixa estate or the diverse types of native grapes found in the wine producing regions of the country.

In the restaurant, let the Portuguese cuisine win you over, accompanied by a superlative wine menu.

There is also the SPA with indoor and outdoor pool, where you can indulge the senses in this â&#x20AC;&#x153;wellness paradiseâ&#x20AC;? and heal from the stress of the daily grind with the ancient teachings of wine therapy. Here you can dive into a hot bath scented with citrus and spices or indulge in the signature Red Vine therapy treatment with antioxidant, circulation-boosting properties. Massages, facial treatments and a range of hydrotherapies are just some of the other options available sure to give you incomparable sensory experiences.

The four-star hotel has 29 rooms and one apartment, all spacious with an unfussy decor, where charming areas and a contemporary feel emphasise comfort in a calm and intimate setting, as styled by designer Paulo Lobo. Conceived by architect Fernando Coelho, Monverde Wine Experience Hotel was designed and built with its ecological footprint in mind: 40% of the investment in this project is sourced sustainably, with 85% of the stone being quarried from the property. Solar panels guarantee the production of 40% of the energy consumed and three buggies take our customers between the different buildings of the property, to minimise their environmental impact.

And as Monverde is a way for Quinta da Lixa estate to share its savoir faire and flavours with the world, do not leave without trying the estate wines, such as the Aroma das Castas or the Pouco Comum, the best-selling Alvarinho on the American market.

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ZAPPING ________

THE WORLD IS ABUZZ ABOUT PORTO, LISBON AND ALENTEJO Words: Susana Ribeiro

Two Portuguese cities and an entire region… What the international media can’t stop talking about.

Portugal is enticing more and more foreigners to pay it a visit and Porto as well as Lisbon have increasing numbers of people passing through.

And while Porto was voted Best European Destination and is referred to across all kinds of global media as a “can’t-miss city”, Lisbon also was recently praised by CNN and then by The Guardian which called it the “new capital of cool”.

The city of Porto was crowned Best European Destination 2017 for the third time. It won the vote against London, Barcelona, Paris and Amsterdam.

The Alentejo was once again mentioned by Condé Nast Traveller. In the April 2017 issue, the celebrated tourism magazine made special mention of the Vincentine Coast which it called the last wild coastline in Europe: “an untouched surf enclave between the Alentejo and Algarve, where the breaking of the waves drowns out the world’s ceaseless chatter.”

PORTO CRUISE TERMINAL IS BUILDING OF THE YEAR And 2017’s Building of the Year is… the Cruise Terminal of the Port of Leixões. The world’s most visited architecture site, ArchDaily, put to the vote what are considered the world’s most beautiful buildings. Readers’ votes poured in, who selected the Cruise Terminal of the Port of Leixões, designed by architect Luís Pedro Silva, as the overall winner in the category of Best Public Project.

One more award to add to all the others such as Best Port of the Year in the 2015 Seatrade Awards, and the Best Public Project 2016, in the awards of “Construir” magazine.

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PORTUGUESE PRODUCTS AROUND THE WORLD

AWARD-WINNING PORTUGUESE CHOCOLATE

ANTHONY BOURDAIN SAMPLED PORTO’S DELICACIES

Let’s talk about knives and flipflops. These are just two products that have been reinvented by Portuguese companies to be sold around the world.

One prize was for the packaging, and another for the chocolate filling. In both cases, two Portuguese companies saw their products come away with an award.

The famous chef and US presenter Anthony Bourdain headed to Porto to try out all the culinary delights the Invicta city had to offer.

Nuno Mendes is a chef known for his restaurants in London - Chiltern FireHouse and Taberna do Mercado – and joined forces with Paulo Amado (director of Edições do Gosto media) to recreate the traditional Portuguese blade.

Cutler Carlos Norte came up with the idea and created Rocks Knives in three styles: Caneças, Bandido and Capa Grilos - with a Sandvik stainless steel or Damascus steel blade. The handles can come in stabilised Iberian olive wood, Angolan ebony dried over 30 years, or kingwood; another option is a cast of clear acrylic with a cork and cow horn veneer.

Another eco-friendly Amorim Cork Ventures line is the flipflops made in cork. They go by the name of ASPORTUGUESAS and come in 11 models, with an organic cork sole in different colours. According to the company they also have “an innovative sole design with a more ergonomic and comfortable strap, granting greater resistance between strap and sole and better grip on wet surfaces.”

Cacaodivine, a company from Coimbra making homemade chocolate liqueurs, created the Baga@ Bairrada signature chocolate. The bonbons filled with Baga@Bairrada sparkling wine and red fruit zest won the Design Prize of the Ret Dot Awards, thanks to its creative packaging made out of cork reminding us of a champagne cork.

As for Pedaços de Cacau, a company from Vila Nova de Gaia, it won the 1-star award for “Best Taste 2016” at the Great Taste Awards. The winners were the lemon bonbons, for which the jury highlighted the combination of black chocolate and lemon filling as “very pleasant”, making special mention of the “natural lemon flavour”.

For his “Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown” TV show for CNN, his mission is to explore cuisines from all over the world and in this specific episode he was seen trying out his first “francesinha” (at café O Afonso) or “tripas à Moda do Porto” (at the restaurant A Cozinha do Martinho) The final episodes reveal the foods from such places as Antartica, Oman, Trinidad (of Trindad and Tobago) and… Porto.

The episode dedicated to the city of Porto is expected to be broadcast on the 25th June 2017, or in other words, one day after the biggest street party in the city: that of Saint John.

PORTUGUESE SOUL 199

PITOS DE S A N TA L U Z I A ________ RECIPE

Word has it these pastries with an unusual name were created by a nun with a very sweet tooth.

The pastries of Santa Luzia are the stuff of culinary legend in Vila Real and were baked first in the Convent of Santa Clara.

One of the Sisters, called Ermelinda Correia (to later become a Holy Sister of Jesus) had been told to abstain from eating sweet things, and as she could not be led from temptation decided to make cakes which wouldn’t catch her Mother Superior’s eye.

In treating the sick, the nuns would fold the compresses in such a way that the edges could

be stuck together (just like the cake in the image) so the linseed balm would not seep out.

By making pastries in the same way, they went unnoticed by the Mother Superior. And that’s how these cakes with sweet pumpkin filling were born.

On Saint Luzia’s Day (13th December) in Vila Real, tradition dictates that the town’s young girls give a “pito” to the boys. On 3rd February, (Saint Brás Day) it is the boys’ turn to return the favour by offering the girls a “gancha” (a sweet in the shape of bishop’s staff ).

INGREDIENTS for the dough

INGREDIENTS for the filling:

• • • •

330g flour 50g sugar 75g lard milk as needed

• •

12 egg yolks 400g of sweet pumpkin jam

STEP BY STEP PREPARATION - Mix the lard with the flour, sugar and milk, till it forms a smooth dough. Shape the mixture into a ball, sprinkle with flour and let it settle for 30 minutes.

– In the meantime, mix the pumpkin jam with the egg yolks and bring to a simmer.

- Roll out the dough and cut into 8 cm squares. Once cooled, spoon some jam into the centre of each one and pinch the endpoints together, before baking in the oven.

- Remove from the oven and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon.

BON APÉTTIT!

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