PORTUGUESE
S O U L
[ ANNIVERSARY ] Celebrating 5 years of Portuguese Soul Magazine
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© 2015 PORTUGUESE SOUL
Director Editor-in-Chief Editor Graphic Design Photography Fashion Director Collaboration Illustration Special Thanks
Owner
ISBN Circulation Printed by
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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the editor, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to the editor, addressed “Attention: Portuguese Soul Permissions”, at the address paulogoncalves@mail.apiccaps.pt _ President of APICCAPS Paulo Gonçalves paulogoncalves@mail.apiccaps.pt Cláudia Pinto Mário Teixeira (www.manifestoworks.com) Frederico Martins (www.fredericomartins.net) Fernando Bastos Pereira Catarina Vasques Rito, Joana Jervell, Ilídia Pinto, Patrícia Gonçalves and Susana Ribeiro António Soares (www.antoniosoares.tumblr.com) AICEP Portugal Global, ANJE, ModaLisboa and Câmara Municipal de Lisboa Ana Paula Andrade (ANJE), António Abreu (Abreu & Abreu), Fátima Santos (AORP), Manuela Oliveira (ModaLisboa), Mónica Neto (ANJE), Paula Ascenção Laranja (Min. Economia), Sandra Olim (Serralves), Urbanmint. _ APICCAPS Portuguese Footwear, Components, Leather Goods Manufacturers’ Association Rua Alves Redol 372 4050-042 Porto _ Tel: +351 225 074 150 | Fax: +351 225 074 179 apiccaps@mail.telepac.pt _ www.apiccaps.pt www.portugueseshoes.pt | www.portuguesesoul.pt www.portugueseshoestv.pt 2182-2298 10.000 copies Orgal Impressores _ The views expressed in PORTUGUESE SOUL are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the owner or its staff.
WWW.SANTOSSHOES.COM
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FIVE YEARS ________
5. Five years. The magazine Portuguese Soul is celebrating its 5th
anniversary. But this edition is not like any other. It is time to recall the past, even the recent past, and plan for the future.
Portuguese Soul’s first objective was always the promotion of footwear and fashion “made in Portugal”. However, the magazine did not confine itself to this alone. Edition by edition, page by page, it sought to become an invitation on a journey through time and space. An invitation to discover a country that, notwithstanding its history of over eight centuries, is constantly reinventing itself. A country of traditions. A country with soul. A country called Portugal. This is also a perfect opportunity to plan for the future. 5. Five years. The magazine Portuguese Soul is celebrating its 5th anniversary. But this edition is not like any other. We have only just begun. To start with we are preparing a number of changes. We hope you like them.
________ PAULO GONÇALVES 4 PORTUGUESE SOUL
04 FIVE YEARS 08 NEW COVER 12 NUMBERS 14 BRUNO ROSENDO 16 WHEN SHOES ARE JEWELS 18 MAKING OF 20 LUÍS BORGES 22 THE OPPORTUNITY BOY 40 GENTLEMAN’S CODE
CON TEN TS
HUNGRY LIKE THE WOLF 54 ACCESSORIES 72 VICTORIA GUERRA 76 DESIGN WALKING SHOES 78 AROUND THE WORLD 82 FÁBIO GOMES 84 MODALISBOA 88 #GAMASQUAD 92
112 MAGGIE & MASHA 122 NEW BLOOD 138 SHADES OF SUMMER 150 DEBUTS IN MILAN 152 JEWELLERY PORTUGAL 157 PIÓDÃO 160 DO YOU KNOW DOW’S 2011 162 SERRALVES 164 WELCOME TO THE FUTURE 166 ZAPPING 168 NUN’S BELLIES
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NEW COVER NEW BEGINNING ________
T
he best men shoes in the world are produced in Portugal. Men’s accessories are also excellent. And there is a decades-long tradition of tailoring. Today, Portuguese expertise is well-known within the international markets. Portuguese models are also among the most sought after in overseas markets, heading up campaigns of the most recognised brands. This was the starting point for the cover of Portuguese Soul. The photo shows seven of the most important Portuguese models. Five of them are actually part of the magazine’s history, having appeared on some of the most emblematic covers (Bruno Rosendo, Luís Borges, Ruben Rua and Tiago Lobo). Jonathan was always a postponed promise. The other two (Gonçalo Pinto and Pedro Pinto) are the most promising models at the moment. #Gamasquad is a daring approach of Portuguese fashion. This is Portuguese Soul… Because… the show must go on.
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w w w. f e l m i n i . c o m
NUMBERS ________
Since the magazine Portuguese Soul was launched, Portuguese footwear and fashion have changed very significantly. These numbers reflect this change.
54%
The value of Portuguese footwear exports has increased by 54% since 2009. The Portuguese industry has gone from exporting over 700 million Euros per year to a total of 1,850 at the end of last year. And in 2015, the sector should break another record.
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The number of new markets to which Portuguese footwear is exported. In 2009, footwear exports went to 130 countries. Five years later they now travel to 152 markets, across the five continents. Antarctica is the most recent conquest.
2,534
The number of new jobs created. The Portuguese footwear industry now employs 35,044 people, 2,534 more than in the recent past. And this number keeps rising.
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© Renaud Buenerd / © Cuir de Lagny
THE INTERNATIONAL LEATHER AND FUR SPECIALIST SHOW
BRUNO ROSENDO ________
• WHEN I STARTED My modeling career started in 2001. • MY FIRST FASHION JOB My first fashion job was in Moda Lisboa, Lisbon Fashion Week. • MY FIRST DISAPPOINTMENT My first disappointment was when a project of a perfume campaign that I was involved with got canceled. • MY MAGIC MOMENT One of my magic moments was when I first traveled to make the fashion weeks in Milan and Paris. That's when I really started to understand how the fashion world works and that I wanted to build a career in this world. • THE WORK OF MY LIFE My fist shooting, which was a big experience back then and, above all, the photos that came out of that shooting allowed me to join international agencies. • WHAT I STILL HAVE TO DO Hopefully a lot...
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WHEN SHOES ARE JEWELS ________
Words: Ilídia Pinto A fundamental detail for looking good, every woman knows that a beautiful pair of shoes can also be something to be adored. Who says so is Carrie Bradshaw, the character played by Sarah Jessica Parker in ‘Sex and the City’, with her enormous collection of shoes and her passion for Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and Jimmy Choo. But Helsar and No Studio, Portuguese brands of footwear, show that shoes can be real jewels.
Created in 1979, Helsar is a luxury brand that has been targeting new market segments, specifically with a personalised line of bride’s shoes. Because it manufactures for major international brands, Helsar was present at the royal wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton, worn by Carol and Pippa Middleton, the bride’s mother and sister. But Helsar’s most recent innovation comes from a partnership with Goris, a jewellery company, which developed the filigree pieces for two pairs of shoes presented in Portojoia, the international jewellery and watchmakers trade fair, and which are now available for sale to the public, by order. Patrícia Correia, Helsar’s designer, explains that these shoes can be ordered with silver or gold filigree, with a sale price of between 900 and eight thousand Euros. The company loved the experience and is already developing new luxury models, again using these metals and also precious stones. A “very particular” niche aimed at women who like “original and almost exclusive pieces”, she explains.
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Much more recent is No Studio, created in 2014 and with only two collections on the market, but which made an impression by their association of pearls, Swarovski crystals, brass applications, chains and piercings on both men’s and women’s shoes. It may come as no surprise that the person in charge of the brand’s design is a jewellery designer. Ana Garcia usually even says that In the Studio does not sell shoes, it sells jewels for your feet. And that is the spirit of the brand that has targeted a market niche with growth potential. No Studio offfers “daring and sexy” shoes, which aim to “challenge” the conventions of the world of fashion through the “hybridization of functions and styles, resulting from an architectural vision that considers form, personality and proportion”. Promising “elegance that lights up one’s dreams, exalting the desire of the sophisticated lady and of the audacious gentleman, inflaming their sinful minds with a touch of romanticism”. Jewels are inherently synonymous with passion, luxury and romance.
MAKING OF ________
The Portuguese capital, Lisbon, was the starting point for another editorial of the magazine Portuguese Soul.
Lisbon City Hall was the stage for a team of professionals involved in another project with photography by Frederico Martins and the artistic direction of Fernando Bastos Pereira. In the spotlight were the proposals of some of the most important brands of Portuguese footwear for next year, always combined with items designed by leading names of the Portuguese fashion like were LuĂs Buchinho and Nuno Baltazar.
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Nomad.Chic.Shoe Spring / Summer 2016
T +351 256 379 630 F +351 256 379 639 GERAL@JJHEITOR.PT WWW.JJHEITORSHOES.COM WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/JJHEITORSHOES
LUĂ?S BORGES ________
INTERVIEW Photos: Frederico Martins
He is one of the most extraordinary Portuguese models of the moment, with a thriving international career. Passionated about fashion, he created one of the best Portuguese bloggers, The Afro Boy. Now, it is his turn to create a line of footwear.
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When did you think about creating a line of footwear? It all began when I received an invitation from the brand of shoes Manuel Dupont to create a collection in collaboration with them. I thought it made perfect sense, seeing that I am a model and that I love fashion and just adore shoes. One of the reasons that made me jump at the chance was the fact that they let me create what I want, which was great, as I had the freedom to do exactly what I wanted.
What sets Luís Borges’ shoes apart? Whoever buys this collection will immediately see that it is mine, given that all the models have a ‘mini Luís Borges’ drawn on them. I tried to be eclectic and at the same time loyal to my own style. These models reflect my irreverence and personality. These shoes have lots of attitude!
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What is your target public? My public is largely young. So, when I came up with what I was going to create I was already thinking about this target, with an urban style. I’m not saying that older people can’t wear them, because style doesn’t depend on age, but rather the attitude of each pair. My collection is quite fun and irreverent and so it’s aimed at everyone who is young at heart.
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Are you going to bet exclusively on the national market or will you aim at overseas markets? The national market is important, but it would be reductionist to restrict this collection to Portugal alone. Given that my blog already has international projection it makes total sense that my shoes should be in other markets. Besides this, Manuel Dupont exports to Spain and France and will be entering the American market very soon.
THE OPPORTUNITY BOY ________
Words: Irina Chitas
D
on’t be fooled by the shoes that he’s got. He is still Armando from the block. And he talked to us on the eve of his flagship store opening, in Lisbon. It was only when a London modeling agency told him “no” three times that Armando Cabral decided to be a model. After all, he had already been approached by other agencies, his family and strangers on the street about a fashion career and couldn’t understand why those people, in particular, were rejecting him. He discovered that his photo book wasn’t good enough. So, he saved money, researched exactly what they were looking for, bought an entire new wardrobe, hired a photographer, rehearsed the poses and went back. He was in. “I have a way of describing luck. For me, luck isn’t something that falls in your lap. Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity”. He prepared, he created the opportunity, he forged his own luck. He them moved to New York, got tired of fashion, and got himself into Wall Street for eight months. He hated it. By then, he was one of the most successful male models of the industry. His ebony skin, perfect bone structure and a smile that can make you go blind, made him have the world at his feet. And he listened – literally. “I always loved shoes. At fashion shows, the first thing I did when I arrived was to look at the shoes. I touched them, felt them, asked the designers
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about them. It turned from hobby to fetish”, and from fetish to work. In 2008, when his mother died, he knew he had to turn his life around. To make her proud, to make himself proud: “Why not design the shoes I always wanted?”. He put himself somewhere between the role of the consumer, the fashion expert and the business man. Armando Cabral was born. Seven years later, with one flagship store in Kuwait (and 45 selling points in 18 different countries”, Cabral returned. “Portugal still gives me so much. I grew up here, my family lives here, I have a house here. (…) I didn’t just open this store (at Embaixada, Principe Real) for sentimental reasons, but also because Portugal is a strategical link to Europe and Africa”. As the brand grows, Armando Cabral is still the same man. “When I left Portugal to study in London, I worked at a factory. It was one of my first jobs. I was so happy because I started making my own money. When I was in New York and first thought of launching a brand, I remembered the man that owned the factory I had worked in, that never met me – and maybe never will – and I don’t even know what led him to build his company, but he gave a job to a kid that came from Amadora. He gave him the opportunity to pay his bills, to save money. If he knew what he did for me then, he would now know how thankful I am. If I can do the same, or more, for somebody else, my work in this world is done”.
T H E WORLD AT H I S F E E T ________
CRISTIANO RONALDO
It is not only on the pitch that the best football player in the world has shown his worth. Cristiano Ronaldo has just launched another collection in his CR7 Footwear line. Making his debut on the catwalks, the best in the world brought the national and international press to Guimarães for an intimate show with the 10 models in the new winter collection. “It is an honour to launch my new CR7 Footwear collection in my own country. Each pair is handmade here in Portugal by the most talented local craftsmen, and so I thought that it would be most appropriate for the world launch to be held here in the historic city of Guimarães, where most of the shoes are produced”. “CR7 shoes define a style and so I wanted to create a presentation that was really focussed on my own collection. For CR7 Footwear we wanted to concentrate our energy on creating a classic, timeless style, but at the same time which could be used every day. As always, comfort and quality are our priorities, and so we have used the best materials and the best people”.
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hat’s Up
No Studio
Luís Onofre
hat’s Up
Guava
Paulo BrandĂŁo
Strena
hat’s Up
Fly London
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hat’s Up
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Goldmud
Hugo Costa
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JJ Heitor
hat’s Up
Codenoir
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hat’s Up
Gino B
Elenco
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TIE KNOTS ________
TUTORIAL Illustration: Mariana Cardoso
Is the tie back in fashion? Or has it never gone out of fashion? Just in case, Portuguese Soul teaches you how to make a knot.
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GENT LEMAN ’S CODE ________
Photos: Óscar Almeida Retouching: Paulo Ferreira
42 SOUL Beard Brush: Paradigma Bag:PORTUGUESE Carlos Santos.
SPECIAL THANKS TO ANTÓNIO ABREU PORTUGUESE SOUL 43
Bag: Fly London
Shoes: Centenรกrio
Shoes: Paradigma
Bag: Rufel. Glasses: Vava
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Bow tie and Necktie: Barbarossa. Collars: RCC
Shoes: Ambitious
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Bow tie: Barbarossa. Shirt: RCC
Shoes: Rolando da Cunha e Melo
Tablet cover: Fly London. Neckties: Barbarossa
Shoes: Exceed Shoe Thinkers
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HUNGRY LI KE T H E WOLF ________
Photos: Frederico Martins Styling: Fernando Bastos Pereira
Shoes: Mychoos. Top, shorts and jackets: Catarina Oliveira. Bandana and bracelet: Topman
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Top , Hat And Choker: Luís Buchinho
UNGRY LI KE T H E WOLF ________
Photos: Frederico Martin Styling: Fernando Bastos Pereira
Shoes: Paradigma. Tunic, Jacket And Trousers: Catarina Oliveira
Shoes: Pinto Di PORTUGUESE SOULBlu. Top , shorts , jacket and choker: LuĂs Buchinho. Necklace:Zara
Shoes: Valuni. Top and shorts: Hugo Costa. Bracelet and socks: Topman
J.Reinaldo. 60Shoes: PORTUGUESE SOUL Jacket , shorts and tops: Hugo Costa
UNGRY LI KE T H E WOLF ________
Photos: Frederico Martin Styling: Fernando Bastos Pereira
Top: Catarina Oliveira. Bandana: Topman
Tunic: Mafalda Fonseca. Sunglasses: LGR
UNGRY LI KE T H E WOLF ________
Photos: Frederico Martin Styling: Fernando Bastos Pereira
Shoes: Carlos Santos. Tunic and shorts: Mafalda Fonseca. Sunglasses: LGR
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Centenรกrio. 64 Shoes: PORTUGUESE SOUL Top and shorts: Mafalda Fonseca
Shoes: JJ Heitor. Dress And Jacket: Nuno Baltazar. Earrings: Zara
Shoes: Dkode. Top and trousers: Nuno Baltazar. Bracelet: Zara
Top: Hugo Costa
Shoes: Nobrand. Top And Trousers: LuĂs Buchinho. Earrings: Zara
Shoes: Exceed Shoe Thinkers. Vest and trousers: Freshjealous. Sunglasses: LGR. Bracelet: Topman
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Shoes: Lemon Jelly. Top and skirt: Susana Bettencourt. Necklace: Zara
Production: Paulo Gonçalves ‘APICCAPS’ and Helena Silva ‘Snowberry’ Make Up: Patrícia Lima Make Up-Assistant: Ana Raquel Ribeiro Hair: Rui Rocha with Senscience Shiseido Photography Assistant: Pedro Sá Styling Assistant: Nelson Lima Production Assistant: Cláudia Pinto Models: Rodrigo Almeida ‘Central Models’ Francisco Henriques and Benthe de Vries ‘Next models’ Retouching: Lalalandstudios Special Thanks to: Câmara Municipal de Lisboa
Vest: Freshjealous. Sunglasses: LGR
ACC ES S O RI ES ________
WITH PERSONALITY Words: Joana Jervell
They are the complement that make the difference in any look, reinforcing our identity and state of mind. Here are Portuguese brands of accessories, which everyone should know.
Âme Moi www.amemoi.com
Art, tradition and exclusivity are the three pillars that define the Âme Moi luxury brand of accessories, which started out in the equestrian universe, a passion which Alberto Gomes, the brand’s CEO, has now materialised in this project. Geared towards a female public (although admitting the possibility of launching a line for men), Âme Moi’s bags favour precious metals like gold and silver, as well as embroidered silk, inspired by typical bull-fighters’ jackets. A special mention goes to the tassels in horse hair that are now a distinctive feature of the brand (in an allusion to the Lusitanian horse), and the filigree handle to be found on the best-seller ‘La Piccolina Filigree’. In Portugal, Âme Moi’s accessories can be found on sale in Lisbon, at Loja das Meias (Amoreiras, Cascais and Castilho) and in Braga, at Boutique Janes. Even more convenient is the option of purchasing via the online store on the brand’s website.
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NaturaLook www.naturalook.pt
Dedicated to producing glasses using wood since 2013, NaturaLook explores the full potential of this material in designing original, handmade and high quality models. The brand, a pioneer in Portugal, offers countless possibilities for personalising your glasses by choosing the type of wood, the design of the model and even customising the earpieces of the glasses with phrases to your taste. The brand which stand selling online through its website, has new added points-ofsale in France, Spain, Norway, USA and Brazil. They are also looking at expanding into Dubai, Qatar and Jordan.Â
NUUK
www.nuukdesigns.com Founded in 2014, the brand of contemporary jewellery NUUK was born from the hands of Paula Paiva and Joana Carvalho (mother and daughter) who use geometric and minimalist shapes to create delicate and timeless pieces. Exclusively designed and produced by hand, in the city of Oporto, NUUK’s pieces are versatile suiting any occasion due to their modern and elegant simplicity. For Spring-Summer 2016, the brand launched the collection PAINT, inspired by the work of the artist Elsworth Kelly. You can check it out in the stores The Feeting Room and CUSQ, both in Oporto, and very soon in Lisbon. Looking towards internationalization, NUUK is already available in London, at the Red Vatican (Shoreditch), and in Japan. In the near future they have their eyes set on markets in North Europe, Oceania, North America, East Asia and the Middle East.
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Maria Maleta www.mariamaleta.com
Also from Oporto comes Maria Maleta, the result of the common passion of two best friends: handbags. Heavily committed to the high quality of the raw materials, the brand develops all of its models in genuine leather, with an assumedly young and trendy design, marked by details that reveal the irreverence of the women
who use them. The BackPack/Moment rucksack is Maria Maleta’s most recent creation, conceived for the dynamic, permanently changing lifestyle of today’s women. Available in three reversible models, it was never so easy to match fashion trends with total comfort in an item that adapts to the different moments of your day-to-day.
Baguera www.baguera.eu
In 2011 Branca Cuvier was made the Creative Director of the brand of accessories/jewellery Baguera, whose simple yet detailed bold statement pieces leave nobody indifferent. In her collections geometry merges with the organic, and the results are innovative models that personify the modern woman of the 21st century. In 2012 the collection ‘Vectory’ won POP prizes promoted by the Serralves Foundation (Oporto). Among other collaborations, Branca was invited by Samsung in 2014 to develop five personalised pieces for the Samsung Galaxy Alpha campaign. In the brand’s online store, Baguera has clients from 36 countries.
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VICTORIA GUERRA ________
Portuguese cinema star in APICCAPS new campaign Words: Clรกudia Pinto Photos: Frederico Martins
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he dreamed of being a journalist, but she built her career in acting. She started out when she was just 17 years old through a street casting for the TV series “Morangos com Açúcar”. Five years and three soap operas later, she is one of the most talented protagonists of Portuguese cinema. After Sara Sampaio and Sharam Diniz, Victoria Guerra is now starring in the new image campaign of Portuguese Shoes: The Sexiest Industry in Europe. “I am tremendously proud to be an ambassador of a sector that is growing so much in Portugal and that has done a remarkable job of projecting our name abroad. Portuguese footwear is increadible modern and sophisticated, and I am extremely happy that they want to associate me with these values”.
If you weren’t an actress, at this time you would be … Probably I would have followed journalism, which is what I was studying when I started working as an actress. From a kids program in 2006 to the cinema in 2015… Your career has been surprisingly rapid and successful. How has it been absorbing all of this growth? I always try to absorb as much as I can in every job I do. There is always something to learn and my philosophy is never to forget that. Can you point out a striking moment in your career? I can point out several. The time when I got into TV series Morangos com Açúcar, whith was where this journey began and I discovered my love for acting. Later on, when I did Linhas de Wellington and last year when I filmed Cosmos and had the opportunity of working with a genius of the cinema called Andrzej Zulawski. You have been involved in national soaps, but cinema seems to be your priority. How did the opportunity of getting into the world of cinema arise? My priority is to work on challenging characters, whether in cinema, television or theatre. The opportunity of doing cinema appeared when I was selected in a casting for Linhas de Wellington. From then on films kept appearing. Hollywood has been like a second home for you. How has it been embracing projects abroad? In this case in New York, which was my second home while the film was being shot. My home is Portugal. The experience of working in another industry with actors who I admire and who are references for me as an actress was very good. Being bilingual has made my life outside of Portugal much easier.
You have been strongly associated to John Malkovich. How important has his support? Through him I had the opportunity of doing castings for projects outside of Portugal and filming Wilde Wedding. You have had very different roles. How do you prepare for each one? I always do a kind of psychoanalysis for each character, then depending on the period and type of film, I work around that. Although acting is your natural area of action, you have had some experiences in the world of fashion. How were those experience like? I wouldn’t say I have had that much experience in the world of fashion, but I have really enjoyed the campaigns and editorials I have done. Just like when I work as an actress, I really like the “chameleon-like” work that photography sessions demand. You accepted the challenge of being the face of national footwear. What is it like, for you, to be an ambassador of this sector? The face and the feet (laughter). I am tremendously proud to be an ambassador of a sector that is growing so much in Portugal and that has done a remarkable job of projecting our name abroad. The Portuguese footwear is increasingly modern and sophisticated, and I am extremely happy that they want to associate me with these values. What can we expect from Victoria for the future? The same will to work and wanting to do more and better. In December two films that I did last year will go on show. I am also going to do a French film. And next year I am returning to television, with a fiction program for the TV channel SIC.
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DESIGN WA L K I N G S H O E S ________
Words: Catarina Vasques Rito
Portuguese footwear is modern and attractive. Its openness to the increasing appearance of new brands with a creative out-of-the-ordinary positioning, of lines connoted with a less conventional style, has allowed projects like Senhor PrudĂŞncio, Experimental Shoes, Nelson Oliveira, Shoes Your Mood and Armando Cabral to appear in the market, captivating a public yearning for new ideas.
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When choosing a new pair of shoes, why not consider buying a Portuguese brand with an avantgarde design or more stylised than normal. The brand Senhor Prudêncio, one of the five we are looking at in this article, appeared in the market in 2012, in the city of Guimarães, and is inspired by the 1950s. “Recovering the past can be creatively interesting. Once again we are cherishing and wanting items from the time of our forefathers. Of undeniable beauty, Senhor Prudêncio taps into a little of this universe together with 21st century design”, explains João Pedro Filipe. The quest for ideas that would suit an increasingly demanding consumer, but who is more receptive to the difference justifies the appearance of new, 100% national brands that demonstrate they can satisfy the market and also compete with the best in the world. I have just opened the first single brand store in Lisbon, althoug products are present all over the world, in Dubai, New York and Japan. This is a project that has captured the public’s attention, men first and now women, due to its combination of more
daring styles with more conservative styles, always with details that make the difference”, emphasises Armando Cabral, who likes to make it clear that the fact that he uses international professionals is merely the “result of business circumstances”. Living in New York, he has modelled and continues to model and do campaigns for the most important fashion brands in the world, combining the profession of model with that of a businessman, managing both and looking for inspiration to convey to his design team. “I adore shoes, I know what I like to wear and I know what I want the brand to be. For everything to go as planned, I like to have good professionals working with me. The brand Armando Cabral covers all the different masculine styles, its line is expanding into the female market and soon I am aiming to have a brand that covers areas like accessories and clothing”, the model said to Portuguese Soul when he was in Lisbon by the end of October to inaugurate his first store in Espaço Embaixada, in Príncipe Real, in Lisbon.
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One step at a time is the strategy followed by Nelson Oliveira, who created a brand of footwear, comprising two lines, about two years ago. In 2013 he was considered the ‘Hot New Talent’ of the year by APICCAPS and by the Footwear Design Academy CFPIC. His SS 2015 collection won the GAPI Young Talent Prize in Dusseldorf, awarded by diverse benchmark entities from the sector. “Receiving awards is good, it shows that we are valued and it encourages us to progress further. I have a particular liking for this area of footwear design and I think I can manage to demonstrate the difference, and so I hope to captivate a public that likes to wear models that are a little different from the norm, without being too eccentric”, says Nelson Oliveira who recognises the long journey he still has in front of him, looking to be “pondered and obstinate” in order to conquer the national markets, “in stage one”, and the international market, at a “later stage”. He looks for inspiration in his own taste, in the attitudes of the new urban generations and in the international trends. And what if suddenly there was a brand that allowed your pair of trainers to transform in a way that you looked like having a new pair of trainers each time? Shoes Your Mood is a Portuguese brand created out of the desire to create trainers that can change, a “different idea that allows the customer to affirm and express themselves, according to their mood. A fun and versatile brand”, says Luis Marvão, one of the mentors of this project. The trainers are already
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on sale in some stores from the North to the South of Portugal. “Like any businessman we want to grow and expand, although we also don’t want to disappoint our customers, given they have already understood that our aim is to be innovative, confesses this young entrepreneur who goes to trade fairs and cultural platforms to promote the brand aiming to play with the ‘mood’ of those who like trainers. And when two twins get together, the result can be called Experimental Shoes. Ana Margarida and Célia came up with a new brand three years ago, the intention of which was “irreverence, vanguardism and the possibility of being able to shock those who discovered the brand”. However, as time goes by, the consumer’s reaction was surprising, adhering to the urban, coherent and global design without “finding anything strange about the proposals presented with each season”. Experimental Shoes, available in multi-brand stores in Portugal and abroad, counts with the participation of the businessmen João Koehler and Tim Vieira, who have a 35% stake in the company founded by Ana and Célia. After taking their brand to the Portuguese version of the North American program, ‘Shark Tank’, the two sisters managed to increase sales and set out new business strategies. “The idea was backed by both and ended up by having an interesting and motivating outcome. What is important is not to jeopardise the concept of differentiation of the brand and to continue to surprise both the public and ourselves”, Ana Margarida noted.
THEY INSPIRE FASHION. Jeremy Somers Creative Director and Designer Circleline
Rosa Pujol Creative Manager Gratacos Riccardo Bruni Textile Designer Lyria
Wendy Richard Style Manager Mégisserie Richard
Takao Ozaki Creative Director A-Girl’s
Federica Martini Masoni Style Office Chief Masoni Industria Conciaria
16-18 Feb. 2016 © Paolo Verzone
premierevision.com
AROUND T H E WORLD ________
PORTUGUESE SOUL Words: Clรกudia Pinto Photos: Frederico Martins
Shoes: GINO B. Top and trousers: Ricardo Andrez Every year, APICCAPS promotes the production and publication of various fashion editorials in foreign magazines with the name Portuguese Soul, with the aim of promoting national fashion and design. We will present some examples of these in the following pages.
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SHOES
WITH
CHARACTER
FÁ B I O G O M E S ________
PERSONALITY Words: Joana Jervell
B
orn in the Algarve, Fábio Gomes studied Fashion Design in Oporto and when he was 19 years he moved to London, where he has been living ever since. In between, he has also spent time in Barcelona, founded his own line of natural cosmetics, Ptah, and is about to complete 20 years of experience as a make-up artist and hair stylist. “Go better, optimistic and mindful” is how this Portuguese man defines himself, having already worked with Kate Moss, Beyoncé, Kylie Minogue, among other celebrities. Self-taught and with an enviable portfolio, here he is in person.
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When did you discover that you wanted to be a make-up & hair artist? When I was studying fashion design we were asked to present a performance in Lisbon, and I offered to do the make up for everyone. I think that was the moment when I realized that I was good at it. Later, when I was working for Miguel Viana and Augusto Morais as a colourist I remember looking at fashion magazines and wondered why would my eyes go straight to the models face and not the hair? After all I was working with hair at the time. I then asked Augusto to teach me make-up and one afternoon I gave it a go, I felt like fish in water. That was the moment I decided my path in life. After that, they were fighting over me at the shows to either do make-up or hair... What made you settle in the English capital? I remember the first time I set feet in London I felt immediately at home! But, I thank more than anything, my Portuguese friends in London, particularly Hugo, Nuno, Sonia and Cristina, they have been my family here! London always has been a very special place to me, not only for the opportunities and how much I was inspired, but also for how much I grew and still grow as a person. It’s like a wave, you can have the most amazing ride or crash. I guess for me that represented a challenge with amazing possibilities. Fashion shows, editorials, video clips... what do you prefer doing? Editorials are usually more fun to do, because you are allowed to let your imagination run free. But shows are a lot of fun because of the buzz and I always feel emotional when I see them walking down the runway.
Do you have any funny story with a celebrity? When I was working in Barcelona I was booked for a job but everything was a secret! We were briefed about what we had to do but all the rest would be disclosed at the very last moment. When I got there I looked to the side and Kylie Minogue turned around and said, “Hi good morning, I’m Kylie. Nice to meet you and thank you so much for coming!”. I nearly fainted... We were doing her new music video “Slow”. One of the high moments of your career was... The moment I was in the same room with Oribe and Charlotte Tilbury doing Kate Moss’s hair colour. How has it been to come so far, achieving all of this international recognition? It wasn’t always easy, I had to make a lot of sacrifices and take a lot of risks. With your vast experience, what are the main lessons that the fashion/ beauty industry has taught you until now? To be successful in this industry 60% is about you, the other 40% is your work. It’s very important to have the right attitude and know how to be around different clients and teams of people. Be persistent, learn to lift yourself up and find another way to get there even when all doors seem closed. If you do it with all your heart you will find a way... Always keep in mind where you would like to be in the future and understand the steps needed to get there. Work one step at a time. And in the end, if you mess up, you clean it away and start again. If it didn’t work, it was worth a try. Trial and error as I say! Relax, it’s only makeup!
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Tell us about your line of natural cosmetics, Ptah… The brand Ptah is the result of nearly 20 years’ experience as a makeup artist and working with beauty products. I asked myself if it would be possible to do a range of products that were all natural, with the same luxury feel of many of the brands out there but at a far more accessible price and with better results over time. So I started experimenting in my kitchen. What makes Ptah different is the fact that it’s focused on offering a freshly made, honest, clean and affordable product. I have always formulated the products using natural ingredients that will nourish and feed your skin. From experience, other brands will replace plant oils for mineral oils because it’s more cost effective and it gives instant results, giving the impression of miracles but providing nothing in the long term. The more research I do into what we use and eat, the more I realize people are not taking their wellbeing into consideration, which is very worrying. Not many companies are willing to put consumer health in front of their profit and the consumers are actually supporting this by buying their products. In a world where so much is massproduced and looks and tastes the same, I’m trying to go back to our roots and provide honest products. Ptah is a reflection of myself as a human being.
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What do you like most in your profession? Making someone look their best is always very rewarding! Also the places you get to see, the talented people you meet and seeing your work featured in magazines is amazing! I will never forget my first magazine cover, I will keep it forever on my wall! A beauty tip you would like to share with our readers? Feeling good in your own skin starts by loving yourself and that shines through. Laughing is the best medicine one can be prescribed. Future plans that you would like to tell us? Having my first shop with Ptah products in Portugal and to produce and sell them is my goal in 5 years’ time. I’m also training and gaining experience at the moment as a life coach, which is something I always wanted to do. I would like to help people find their way and help them achieve the goals they have.
05-Anuncio.pdf
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M O DA LI S B OA ________
SANGUE NOVO Words: Cláudia Pinto Photos: ModaLisboa
Valentim Quaresma
T
oday as ever, collections are inspired by the interregnum of the months and the succession of the seasons. They are measured by the pace of time. The Timers set the tone for yet another edition of ModaLisboa. Because fashion is time, and time is that common space so essential for the evolution of fashion. And fashion, a passion that occupying the time of many clocks, was once again acclaimed in the Portuguese capital.
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The buildings of the City of Lisbon welcomed this cry of celebration on the beat. In total, 22 shows, 10 new “Sangue Novo” designers and 20 thousand visitors transformed Pátio do Galé into a real stage. “It’s them – sorry, us! – If only we could have this real, authentic, pure time over again – it should be preserved, so that one day, in the future, we could look at it as a mirror of the talent of the day, of the energy we had, and of the part we played.” (Eduarda Abbondanza)
Carlos Gil
Dino Alves
Once again, National Fashion Week dedicated part of the first day to competition Sangue Novo (New Blood). Always watching out for the new faces of fashion, the event saw 10 new designers step into the limelight to present their proposals for the next summer season. The event was attended by the usual faces in Portuguese fashion. From Alexandra Moura, with tribal inspiration and her very singular combinations, to Filipe Faísca, who created a collection that was an anthem and tribute to women’s strength and attitude to life. Nuno Gama presented a real spectacle dedicated to the Portuguese Discoveries. Appealing heavily to all things Portuguese, the creator presented almost a hundred combinations inspired by the different countries discovered by Portugal. Carlos Gil, who has conquered international catwalks, presented an intimate collection which emphasised the importance of the cut and haute couture. “The New Sartorial” maintains the purity and perfection of the tailor’s cut, reinventing it in the creation of pieces that thrive for their difference. Through the details he transforms something simple into something unique. Luis Carvalho took next summer’s pulse and presented an explosion of flowers which influenced the shapes, cut and printed motifs of each combination. Flowers are the basis of the collection, explored in various ways and in diverse materials. His organic shapes produced fluid fabrics and cuts. In turn, the textures influenced the pleats and other raw materials, which present the beauty of the contrast between the feminine and the masculine.
Aleksandar Protic
Dino Alves closed this edition of Lisbon Fashion Week with a presentation in one of the most emblematic venues in the capital: the São Luiz Theatre. The collection is based on projected lines, so as to construct ideas and define paths, crumpled up designs that hide mistakes and turbulent starts, one attempt followed by another and yet another until it works and effectively expresses what is meant to be conveyed. National footwear had a bigger footprint in the latest edition of ModaLisboa. On the catwalk, the brands of footwear presented the result of the partnerships developed with national designers, anticipating the new features of the spring-summer 2016 season, while affirming the identity of national fashion within a more global context. Beyond the limelight, where national footwear was present with 13 partnerships, Portuguese shoes stepped off the catwalk to breathe life into an exhibition that summarised the essence of the quality and innovation of one of the most dynamic industries in Portugal. Throughout the three days of ModaLisboa based in the City Hall, the Portuguese Shoes exhibition revealed a selection of footwear proposals presented on the catwalk, summing up the increasingly stronger approximation between the footwear industry and design.
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Alexandra Moura
Luís Carvalho
Ricardo Andrez
Filipe Faísca
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# G A M A S Q UA D ________
SHOES: NUNO GAMA by EUREKA CLOTHES: NUNO GAMA Photos: Frederico Martins Styling: Fernando Bastos Pereira
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Production: Paulo Gonçalves ‘APICCAPS’ and Helena Silva ‘Snowberry’ Make Up: Patrícia Lima Make Up-Assistant: Ana Raquel Ribeiro Hair: Rui Rocha with Senscience Shiseido Photography Assistant: Pedro Sá Styling Assistant: Nelson Lima Production Assistant: Cláudia Pinto Models: Bruno Rosendo, Gonçalo Pinto and Tiago Lobo ‘We Are Models’ Jonathan Sampaio and Luís Borges ‘Central Models’ Pedro Pinto and Ruben Rua ‘Elite Lisbon’ Retouching: Lalalandstudios
FA S H I O N C E L E B R AT I O N ________
20 YEARS OF PORTUGAL FASHION Words: Cláudia Pinto
Luís Buchinho
Celebration is part of life, and Portugal Fashion was not going to waste this opportunity. Last October, the gates of the cities of Lisbon and Oporto opened up in a commemoration on the catwalks that stood out in event’s still short history.
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Miguel Vieira
Pedro Pedro
Portugal Fashion celebrated its 20th anniversary, and the venues that witnessed its birth welcomed national fashion’s confident steps with open arms. In total, 32 shows filled the emblematic halls of the hosting cities under the theme of “Celebration”. From the majestic Coliseu, the first workshop stage of this event, to the Alfândega do Porto, and including the matchless Quartel Serpa Pinto, Portuguese fashion knew no boundaries. Alves & Gonçalves, Carlos Gil, Fátima Lopes, Luis Buchinho, Miguel Vieira, Nuno Baltazar and Pedro Pedro, among other steadfast names of the history of Portuguese fashion strode the catwalk over these four days dedicated to creativity. The Portuguese summer peeked out anxiously to show itself in a genuine roar of originality. In this edition it was the footwear companies that, once again, won the limelight. Ambitious and JJ Heitor debuted in the sector’s collective show. The former’s main basis for inspiration were the distant galaxies. Following the main trends in national fashion, Ambitious went for irreverence in the traditional colours of summer, always relating to the power of detail. A collection dedicated to the male universe, as the tradition of the company from Guimarães dictates, with a futuristic and modern vision. Ambitious brought avant-garde and futuristic proposals to Portugal Fashion’s catwalk for a summer that one can expect to be lively and ambitious. In the group of first-timers, JJ Heitor showed what its women’s shoes are made of in this season. Already experienced in the world of high profile partnerships (previous collaborations with Nuno Baltazar and Katy Xiomara), each of the brand’s combinations told a life story. Each line, each shoe and each
detail manifested a way of living, feeling and being different. Standing out among the various models presented, was the male inspiration with classic and elegant constructions that deconstructed the classic style and offered an avant-garde and trendy alternative for all women. While talking about women’s options, Fly London presented an irreverent collection sculpted in singular colours and eccentric shapes. Tribal inspirations, together with alternative platforms provided an invitation to euphoria in a genuine mosaic of vivid colours. The proposals of the Guimarães based brand for men leaned towards a summer steeped in the 1970s together with a major presence of simple accessories that will make any man “fly”. From flying high to the ‘Burning Man’ festival, Nobrand continue to surprise with a set of proposals based on adventure and freedom. “High on Summer” combines reality with fantasy and presents vibrant models with unexpected textures that are impossible to ignore. Ethnic patterns and floral motifs project us into a bold and free universe, just like a summer festival, where originality and creativity reign supreme.
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Dkode set the pace once again with bohemian, romantic and free proposals. The classics were reinvented in a relaxed and up-to-date way with new accessories and new textures. The brand’s whole natural, dreamer atmosphere was conveyed into proposals that lead each client into a vibrant, exciting world. Bohemian Spirit set the tone for a summer that merges the classic style with fun, with racy and renewed models. J Reinaldo, now a common sight on the catwalk in Oporto, went for a fusion between the usual classic designs and more contemporary models. From traditional models to sandals and sneakers, the brand from Felgueiras presented us with a summer, in three words: different, modern and classic.
Nuno Baltazar
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Luís Onofre was highlighted on the last day of the event with is usual solo show. The collection “Earth & Fire” lit up the catwalk with quite differing proposals. The question raised by the creator was “can a shoe be simultaneously the symbol of an artistic object, the note of a song and a geometric shape”. The answer is unanimous: YES; and only thanks to the combination of shapes, colours, materials and sounds in an unparalleled multiplicity. National fashion emerged victorious from yet another celebration… but the journey has only just begun and will have many stories to tell, which stretch well beyond these 20 years.
Fátima Lopes
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M AG G I E & M A S H A ________
Shoes and bags: LUIS ONOFRE Clothes and jewelry: CARLOS GIL Photos: Gonรงalo Claro Styling: Fernando Bastos Pereira
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Production: Cláudia Pinto ‘APICCAPS’ Make Up: Patrícia Lima Make Up-Assistant: Ana Raquel Ribeiro Hair: Rui Rocha with Senscience Shiseido Styling Assistant: Nelson Lima Models: Margarita Pugovka ‘Elite Lisbon’ Masha ‘We are Models’ Nails: Leonor Freitas for Essie
NEW BLOOD ________ Photos: Frederico Martins Styling: Nelson Vieira
Coat: Cristina Real
Clothes: Banda. Shoes: Nelson Oliveira
Clothes: Patrick de Pรกdua
Clothes: Tânia Nicole
Clothes: Patrick de Pรกdua
Clothes: Ruben Damรกsio
Clothes: David Catalรกn
Clothes: InĂŞs Duvale
Clothes: Inês Duvale
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Clothes: Sara Santos
Clothes: David Catalรกn
Production: Paulo Gonçalves ‘APICCAPS’ and Helena Silva ‘Snowberry’ Make Up: Patrícia Lima Make Up-Assistant: Ana Raquel Ribeiro Hair: Rui Rocha with Senscience Shiseido Photography Assistant: Pedro Sá Styling Assistant: Nelson Lima Production Assistant: Cláudia Pinto Models: Kawai Prenter ‘Best Models’ Ruben M & Joaquim ‘We are Models’ Retouching: Lalalandstudios
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SHADES OF SUMMER ________
Photos: Carmo Amorim Styling: Pedro Pedro
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Jumper: Susana Bettencourt. Skirt: Susana Bettencourt
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140Sneakers: PORTUGUESEHugo SOUL Costa. Coat: Daniela Barros. Trousers and Shirt: Daniela Barros. Silver earrings: Liliana Guerreiro
Sneakers: Hugo Costa. Shirt: Pedro Neto. Trousers: LuĂs Buchinho
Dress: Carla Pontes
Dress: Carla Pontes. Silver earrings: Liliana Guerreiro
Top: Alexandra Moura. Silver pendant: Liliana Guerreiro
Dress: Carla Pontes. Silver earrings: Liliana Guerreiro
Dress: Carla Pontes
Coat: LuĂs Buchinho. Dress Pedro Neto
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Top: LuĂs Buchinho. Silver pendant Liliana Guerreiro
Top: LuĂs Buchinho. Silver earrings: Liliana Guerreiro
Sandals: LuĂs Buchinho. Shirt and apron skirt: Diogo Miranda
Shoes: Alexandra Moura x Goldmud. Cotton top: Hugo Costa. Shorts: Diogo Miranda
Shoes: Alexandra Moura x Goldmud. Top: Pedro Neto. Shorts: Diogo Miranda
Make Up: Daniela Reis Make Up-Assistant: Bé Miranda Hair: Bruno Bessa Cruz Models: Danii ‘Blast Models’ and Julia ‘We are Models’
Coat: Hugo Costa. Silver earrings: Liliana Guerreiro
DEBU TS IN MILAN ________
PORTUGUESE FASHION
Carlos Gil
Portuguese fashion has long been recognised internationally. Paris, Berlin, Madrid and London are some of the capital cities that regularly host Portuguese proposals. Last September it was Milan’s turn. Carlos Gil and Miguel Vieira, representing Portugal Fashion, did the honours and presented their collections for spring/summer 2016 in Milan Fashion Week.
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Miguel Vieira
So, for the first time, Portuguese creators presented their proposals in what is considered to be one of the foremost events in international fashion, a move that we hope will continue and grow.
SHOES
4 - 6 Mar. 2016
ORGANISED BY
PROFESSIONALS ONLY
Madrid - Spain INTERNATIONAL FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES TRADE SHOW
IFEMA - Feria de Madrid Tel. (34) 91 722 30 00 • momad@ifema.es
www.momad.ifema.es Follow us:
JEWELLERY ________
Photos: Orlando Gonçalves Styling: Nelson Vieira
Rings and necklace: Mimata Ring: Rosarinho Cruz Earrings: Bruno da Rocha
Art and tradition. Knowing and doing. Past and future. Portuguese jewellery is becoming more and more extroverted. Leveraging experience accumulated over generations, year after year it has been winning over an increasingly demanding and diverse clientele. For Fátima Santos, General Director of AORP (Portuguese Jewellery and Watchmaking Association) one of the sector’s secrets involves “attracting qualified young people, namely designers, into an exciting art”. New blood that contrasts with “dozens of small companies with decades of experience in manufacturing authentic works of art”.
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Teapot: Alcino Silversmith Escrava: Patricia Gorriz
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Earrings: Joana Mota Capitão Escrava: Patrícia Gorriz Necklace: Bruno da Rocha
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P I O DÃO ________
EN C H A N T ED V I LLAG E
HIDDEN PORTUGAL
Due to its location Portugal is a seafaring nation. Since the Discoveries time, initiated in the 1400s, the Portuguese have always been closely connected to the sea. But it is on dry land that much of the magic of this “Little garden by the sea” happens. In the country’s hinterland there are scores of tiny villages, towns and places that make this country a genuine enchanted paradise. Just like walking into the middle of a fairy tale… Piodão, in Arganil, appears in the middle of the range of hills like an enchanted waterfall. The typical shale and slate houses on the hill look like they just came out of a nativity scene. The blue wooden windows and doors make the brown of the houses stand out and make the village look like no other. The village is recognised as a place of refuge and isolation with a very small population. The settlement, which would later lend its name to the village, dates from the 13th century and needed to move around the valley in order to diversify its production of cereal. Today, this location is therefore a place for rest and holidays, with very few inhabitants.
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The surrounding nature is almost in a pure state, with diverse species of fauna and flora throughout the region. The village probably developed from an old Lusitanian castle, the “Casal de Piodam”, which was used as terrace farming, and is now in ruins. The architectonic group and very characteristic layout of the village are Piódão’s greatest attribute. One of the village’s most striking buildings is a white church dating from the 17th century. Piódão’s Museum, which houses an exhibition of the village’s customs and traditions, together with the “river beach” and its rural tourism are some of the attractions capturing the attention of many inquisitive tourists.
Village of Mysteries As is common in Portugal, the village is shrouded in mysteries. Legend has it that one of Queen Inês de Castro’s killers took refuge in the village. Diogo Lopes Pacheco was sought by King Pedro (who wanted to avenge his lover’s death) and by the King of Castille. In Portuguese history this episode represents one of the most popular and tragic love stories. Whether this is true or not, the truth is that the silence in the medieval street is intense. Situated in the Açor Hills, in the district of Coimbra, this village is considered World Heritage by UNESCO.
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D O YO U KNOW DOW ’S 2011? ________
THE BEST WINE IN THE WORLD Words: Ílidia Pinto
The notoriety of Portuguese wines, especially from the Douro, the oldest demarcated region in the world, is growing internationally, a fact proven by the countless prizes and distinctions awarded over recent years. And 2014 turned out to be a very special year in this area, with Wine Spectator, looked on by many as the “Wine Bible”, including three Portuguese wines in the ranking of the 10 best of the year. The Chryseia and Quinta do Vale Meão reds took the third and fourth places in the top 10, which is led by Dow’s 2011 port wine. Produced by Symington Family Estates in the Quinta do Bomfim, in Pinhão, Dow’s 2011 wine was chosen from among 18 thousand samples assessed by the wine-tasting team of the influential North American magazine and received a classification of 99 points out of a possible 100. Chryseia also comes from Symington, but is the result of a partnership with the Bordeaux producer with Bruno Prats, and Quinta do Vale Meão is produced on the estate with the same name by the company F. Olazabal & Filhos. Both were classified with 97 points. Wine Spectator distinguishes wines according to the classification obtained in the tasting, but also from other parameters, such as the quality/price relationship, availability on the market and what it calls the ‘x factor’, a mixture of authenticity and singularity. Besides these three wines in the five top spots in the ranking, Portugal also managed to include three national wines in Wine Spectator’s top 100: Fonseca Vintage Port came in 13th place, Quinta do Portal Douro in 27th – both from 2011 -, and the Alentejo Ramos Reserve 2012 by João Portugal Ramos which came in 56th position.
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Portugal’s international distinction in the world of wines did not stop there. And while the rankings of this year are still unpublished, we can tell you that the World Association of Writers and Journalists of Wines and Spirits considered Sogrape Wines to be the best wine producer in the world in 2015. The leader of Portuguese wine exports, with brands such as Casa Ferreirinha, Mateus Rosé, the young “green” wines Gazela and Aveleda, and Sandeman, Ferreira and Ofley port wines, had already stood out in the ranking of last year’s best 100 producers in the world with fourth place.
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Serralves House-Museum nestles in the midst of a fairy tale garden, in the centre of the historic city of Oporto. Surrounded by 18 hectares of nature and by one of the most important Museums of the “unvanquished” city, the House-Museum is a unique example of Art Deco dating from the 1930s. The house, belonging to the Count of Vizela (Carlos Alberto Cabral), has been worked on by some of the most outstanding names in architecture like Marques da Silva, Charles Siclis, Jacques Émile Ruhlmann, René Lalique and Edgar Brandt, although the architectural design is attributed to the first two.
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S E R R A LV E S ________
THE PALACE IN THE WOODS
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WELCOME TO THE F U TURE ________
MUNNA, GINGER & JAGGER Formed only seven years ago, it soon made its mark as one of the most progressive furniture companies. Urbanmint heads up some of the most respected Portuguese insignias in the world like Munna, Ginger & Jagger.
Ginger & Jagger appeared only in 2012, standing out for its creation of contemporary design pieces inspired by the purity of the forms of Nature, hand-produced in Portugal by craftsmen using exotic woods and high quality materials like copper, brass and marble. In 2014, the luxury brand Dior has chosen Ginger & Jagger pieces when it remodelled its stores in various capitals around the world like Vienna, Sydney and Kuala Lumpur.
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Munna creates new design classics with timeless appeal, firmly rooted in Portuguese craftsmanship. In 2014, it collaborated with the 101 year-old fabric producer Lelievre Paris. The iconic Hughes chair won an International Product Design Award in the Seating category. In 2014 Munna and Ginger & Jagger were included in three new showrooms in Riyadh, Moscow and Shanghai.
Their innovative design, creativity and the detail of each piece convinced the directors of the most luxurious and exclusive department stores in the world, Harrods, in London, to select pieces of these two important brands. Paula Sousa, CEO of Urbanmint, points out that “we were being contacted by Harrods in various international events around the world. After three years we were in a position to become part of their exclusive universe�. Urbanmint is enjoying 100 % growth per year. In 2014 it invoiced 2 million Euros and sold 1613 pieces to 43 countries.
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ZAPPING ________
Words: Susana Ribeiro
The Best in the World in Portugal Year after year, Portugal continues to stand out in the international awards related to tourism. In the so-called “Oscars of Tourism”, Portugal won 14 prizes at the European level. In this World Travel Awards, the Algarve was voted Beach Destination, TAP the best airline flying to Africa and South America and also Turismo de Portugal, the Portuguese Tourist Board, was distinguished as the best tourism office. In other distinctions of the Travel Media Awards 2015 (organised by Irish travel media), the city of Lisbon was voted the Best City or Short Break Destination. Also the reputed travel magazine Condé Nast Traveler highlighted Portuguese hotels a number of times. That was the case of the Palácio de Belmonte (Belmonte Palace), listed as one of the best hotels in the world and part of the Gold List of that publication. Football also brings visitors to Portugal. The country is in the Top 5 best destinations to watch a First Division match. According to GoEuro, the five football leagues with the best travel value are Germany, Spain, Portugal, England and Argentina. Even among fish markets, Portugal is a benchmark. In this case, the newspaper USA Today selected the best markets in the world and included in this restricted list the Setúbal Fish Market, known as the Market do Livramento. The walls of this market are covered with 5,700 traditional azulejo tiles. Curiosity: Did you know that 13 sardines are consumed per second in the month of June in Portugal, the month of the Popular Festivities?
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Portugal bets on golf tourism Portugal is looking more and more towards golf as a driver of tourism. Over the last four years it has been an expanding growth market, according to data from the International Association of Golf Tour Operators. This same association distinguished Portugal, in 2015, with two awards: the city of Lisbon won in the category of Best Golf Destination of the Year in Europe, and the Royal Óbidos Spa & Golf Resort was considered as the Best Golf Resort of the Year in Europe. In recent years, Portugal has made a notable investment in this area. And this to being voted among the top places in the international ranking of golf courses. Portugal has four courses represented in the TOP 25 of the Best Golf Courses in Europe: Monte Rei, in Tavira (14th), Oitavo Dunes, in Cascais (18th), Troia Golf, in Tróia (19th), and Onyria Palmares, in Lagos (21st). This ranking was prepared by Golf World, a reputable magazine from Great Britain. And there are still more Portuguese courses in the TOP 100.
Azores: did you know that...? Did you know that the Azores, and Jeju, in South Korea, are the only regions in the world that have all of the classifications attributed by UNESCO? Or rather, the Portuguese archipelago has the four designations that international entity (of the United Nations) attributes around the world. The Azores are World Heritage (historic centre of Angra do Heroísmo, on Terceira island, since 1983, and Pico Island Vineyard Culture, since 2004), Biosphere Reserve, Geopark and is also classified as Ramsar, attributed to Wetlands, in order to preserve their natural habitat. Three of the archipelago’s islands are classified as Biosphere Reserves: Flores, Corvo and Graciosa. Recently, the Azores presented an application to UNESCO for the Fajãs (supratidal talus-platforms) of São Jorge to be classified as a Biosphere Reserve.
PORTUGUESE SOUL 167
NUN ’S BELLI ES ________ RECIPE There is a wealth of monastery-style desserts, with hundreds of recipes with centuries of history. And, in Portugal, some of the delicacies can have a different name from region to region. Some people call them Papos de Anjo (Angels’ Chins) (they can also be made with the dough from moist sponge cake) or Barrigas de Freira. (Nun’s bellies). Conventual history has it that desserts – that did not hold back in the use of
eggs and sugar – were one way of, very often, making use of egg yolks which were delicate... like angels. “Barrigas de freira” (alluding to the plumpness of the nuns, considered a sign of beauty... who used to eat lots of sweet things in secret) come in a half-moon shape, made with wafer, the same as that used for the communion wafer, and filled with sugared eggs. A real delight!
INGREDIENTS 300g sugar
2 wafer slices
15 egg yolks
Powdered sugar
1.5dl water
1 egg white
PREPARATION IN 10 STEPS 1 - Make a syrup with the water and the sugar until you reach the firm ball stage 2 - Lightly beat the egg yolks 3 - Pour the syrup into the beaten egg yolks and put it on a medium heat 4 - Stir constantly until it thickens 5 - Prepare the wafer slices and cut them into squares (about 10x10cm) 6 - Let the filling cool a little and place a small spoonful in the centre of the cut wafer 7 - Beat the egg white lightly 8 - With a brush, or even with your finger, dip it into the egg white and brush the edges of the wafer and close them so that they stick together 9 - This makes a rectangle and so if you want you can cut the ends off to get a half-moon shape 10 - Place them on a plate and dust them with powdered sugar. If you want, you can brush them with egg white to have more sugar on the outside. Let them dry before eating. BON APPÉTIT!
10 – 12 FEB 2016 W W W.G D S - O N L I N E .C O M
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