S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 5 . F R A N C A S O Z Z A N I . A N D R É S A R A I VA . M O D A L I S B O A A N D P O R T U G A L FA S H I O N . R U B E N A LV E S
credits
S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 5 . F R A N C A S O Z A N N I . A N D R É S A R A I VA . M O D A L I S B O A A N D P O R T U G A L FA S H I O N . R U B E N A LV E S
One Magazine, Four Covers
Director Editor-in-Chief Assistant Graphic Design Photography Styling Collaboration Illustration Special Thanks
Owner
President of APICCAPS Paulo Gonçalves paulogoncalves@mail.apiccaps.pt Cláudia Pinto Mário Teixeira (www.manifestoworks.com) Frederico Martins (www.fredericomartins.net) Fernando Bastos Pereira Catarina Vasques Rito, Joana Jervell, Ilídia Pinto, Manuel Arnaut, Patrícia Gonçalves and Susana Ribeiro António Soares (www.antoniosoares.tumblr.com) AICEP Portugal Global, ANJE and ModaLisboa Ana Paula Andrade (ANJE), Fátima Santos (AORP), Manuela Oliveira (MODALISBOA), Mónica Neto (ANJE), Paula Ascenção Laranja (Min. Economia); Cândida Colaço Monteiro and Álvaro Campo (Casa da Música); Hotel Intercontinental APICCAPS Portuguese Footwear, Components, Leather Goods Manufacturers’ Association Rua Alves Redol 372 4050-042 Porto Tel: +351 225 074 150 Fax: +351 225 074 179 apiccaps@mail.telepac.pt www.apiccaps.pt www.portugueseshoes.pt www.portuguesesoul.pt www.portugueseshoestv.pt
ISBN Circulation Printed by
2:3
2182-2298 10.000 copies Orgal Impressores
Rufel
by Mariana Monteiro
editorial
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Paulo Gonçalves
Four years. Only four years have passed since the magazine Portuguese Soul was launched. It seems such a short period of time, but in fact a lot of things have happened in this time. Four years of major international affirmation of Portuguese footwear. Exports have increased by over 40% since 2010 and today shoes “Made in Portugal” reach 150 countries on five continents. Since the first edition of the magazine, it was our ambition to reveal a young, modern and forward-looking industry that combines tradition and state-of-the-art technologies, «know-how» accumulated over various generations together with contemporary and timeless design. This was the starting block for the magazine Portuguese Soul. But it is not our destination. We want you to get a detailed look at one of the most creative industries in the world, its main protagonists, the projects in hand and the answers to the demanding challenges of the future. The magazine Portuguese Soul is about this and much more. Travel with us to a country with over eight centuries of history, that is constantly reinventing itself. A modern, creative country, geared towards the future, but without turning its back on its culture and tradition. A country with soul. A country called Portugal.
4:5
60 Glitter Boy
004 008 010 014 016 026 028 048 054 056
6-7
Editorial A Matter of Numbers Making of Portuguese Footwear Exports What’s UP New Brands Green is the Warmest Color Franca the Great Reinventing Tradition Tailoring is in Fashion
060
Glitter Boy
078
Portugal Snapshot
092
Portugal Fashion
100
Born Wild
112
Jewellery
074
ModaLisboa
082
Sigrid
096
Mr. Cool André Saraiva
110
Ana Viriato
117
Welcome to Portugal
overview
1800
A M AT T E R O F
150
MILLION EUROS The Portuguese shoe industry exported this many millions of Euros in footwear in 2014. Another historic record in an industry that has been growing for five consecutive years.
DEVICES for footwear developed by the Footwear Technology Centre in Portugal. The majority of these devices are now being exported around the world.
7
PEOPLE
70 TRADE FAIRS This is the number of international trade fairs in which Portuguese footwear will participate in 2015. Besides attending the major European events, Portuguese footwear will be present in the main events for the industry in China, Columbia, the USA and Russia. For the first time the Turkish market will also appear on the horizon for Portuguese companies.
80 MILLIONS OF PAIRS of shoes produced by Portugal in 2014. Around 95% went to the most demanding international markets, especially on the European continent. Sales of national footwear are also increasing significantly on other continents.
were distinguished by the President of the Republic of Portugal on the 14th of November in GuimarĂŁes. The General Director of the Portuguese Footwear Association (APICCAPS), Manuel Carlos Costa da Silva, was made a Grand Officer of the Order of the Infante D. Henrique and the businessmen Armando LuĂs da Silva, Carlos Pereira de Castro, Carlos Santos, Domingos Ferreira Neto, Fernando Rodrigues Lima and Luis Onofre, who is also a fashion designer, were made Commanders of the Order of Industrial Merit, Industrial Merit Class.
41000 WORKERS
The number of workers in footwear, components and leather articles companies. In the latter, Portuguese industry created hundreds of jobs, especially in the interior of the country. a mathematical journey across the flat or vertiginous universe of shoes
8-9
making of
Casa da Música, one of the great landmarks of the city of Porto, was the backdrop for another editorial of the Portuguese Soul magazine, highlighting the proposals by shoe brands and designers for Summer 2015. The work has photographs by Frederico Martins and Styling by Fernando Bastos Pereira.
Designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, as part of the Porto European Capital of Culture event in 2001 (Porto 2001), Casa da Musica is now the principal concert hall in the North of Portugal. The highlight is the Sala Suggia, considered the heart of Casa da Música (named in honour of the Porto cellist Guilhermina Suggia, a worldwide exponent of the instrument in the first half of the 20th century), which anchors the entire building, allowing the main routes to be designed around it.
MAKING OF With seven windows that link to the outside and to other interior spaces, providing different viewing angles, it is the only concert hall in the world where you can play music exclusively with natural light enought to allow the reading of the scores. Hundreds of auditoria around the world have stage openings, windows, skylights or apertures, but none comes close to the luminosity of the Sala Suggia at Casa da Música.
10-11
SPRING /SUMMER 2015
T +351 256 379 630 F +351 256 379 639
WWW.JJHEITORSHOES.COM GERAL@JJHEITOR.PT
footwear
RECORD FOOTWEAR EXPORTS
Portuguese footwear exports grew by 9% from January to September 2014. In the first nine months of the year, Portugal exported roughly 65 million pairs of shoes, worth 1,500 million Euros. This is the 5th consecutive year of growth in exports, which this year should reach a new historic maximum. Exports are growing in practically all markets, namely in Europe, which is up by 8.8% to 1,274 million Euros. Outside Europe (growth in the order of 10%), the highlight goes to performance in the USA (up 65% to 30 million Euros), Angola (up by 2.5% to 19 million Euros), Canada (up by 29% to 18 million Euros) and Australia (up 27% to 9 million Euros).
14:15
Since 2009, sales of Portuguese footwear in external markets have already increased by more than 50%. Portugal is consolidating its presence in the European markets and has already doubled its presence in markets outside of the EU.
footwear
R
U
F
E
L
The Portuguese leather goods sector is enjoying significant growth. In recent years its exports have actually doubled. Rufel is one of the leading exponents of this new strategy: classic models, with excellent finishing and unquestionable quality. Attending international trade fairs like Mipel has projected the brand from S. Jo達o da Madeira into the main international markets.
16-17
S T I L E T T O Owned by one of the largest footwear
groups, CaritĂŠ, Stiletto has amazed people with its elegance and good taste. Aimed at modern, cosmopolitan women, the brand promises great things in 2015 with its sophisticated proposals and vanguardist design, without forgetting comfort and well-being.
photo frederico martins ASSISTANT PEDRO SĂ
footwear
P
A
R
A
D
I
G
M
A
Based in Guimarães, Paradigma has been reinforcing its drive into international markets. Formed in 1987, the company’s objective was initially to meet the needs of the Portuguese domestic market in terms of classic leathersoled men’s shoes. In 2000 it started the process of approaching foreign markets, which is where over 85% of its production now goes. In recent years it has accumulated know-how and Paradigma is now recognised in the market for its organization, rigour, reliability and the typology of its products (especially for its BLAKE construction system). 18-19
C
L
A
Y
’
S
The singularity and quality of Clay´s products make it one of the leading Portuguese brands of footwear in the world. Its collections have a fun, colourful, young and comfortable style, with dynamism and quality, and are aimed at women who appreciate exclusivity at all times. Clay’s, which is based in Barcelos, also has another particular feature: the Cockerel is used as the symbol to identify the company’s origins, this being the symbol of the city where it is located, and it is constantly present abroad, representing Portugal.
footwear
A
M
B
I
T
I
O
U
S
This is one of the leading brands in male footwear. Based in Guimarães, it exports 90% of its production to countries like Holland, the USA and France and it will soon be pushing into markets outside of the EEC. In under a year in Mexico, Ambitious’ results have been astounding. So much so that, after having taken part in Colombiamoda, it will now be heading up a commercial offensive in South America. 20-21
CALÇADO
MIRRÓ
With over 50 years of experience in the production of personalised footwear, 75% of
Calçado Mirró’s production goes to the most demanding international markets, especially in the European Union. With a team of 50 employees, the brand, based in Vila Nova de Gaia on the outskirts of the city of Oporto, is highly versatile, and can adjust its production both for large and small series of shoes.
footwear
MANUEL DUPONT
Classic or more daring models. In fact it makes no difference which. Manuel Dupont is one of the more recent projects in the area of footwear in Portugal yet it astounds us with the elegance and originality of its models and excellent finishing. In 2015, Manuel Dupont will have its debut on the professional circuit and so promises to be one of the brands to follow closely.
22-23
B A S I L I U S
For many years this was one of the main
benchmarks
in
the
Portuguese
footwear industry. Basilius is now back on the international markets. And how! Its partnership with the designer Pedro Pedro, one of the most outstanding in the last Modalisboa, has surprised everyone and Basilius’ collections by Pedro Pedro are now selling in countries like the USA, Japan and Russia.
footwear
PINTO
DI
BLU
With over two decades of experience in
the market, Pinto di Blu is a brand that started out from Santa Maria da Feira, in the North of Portugal, to conquer the world. Its development of elegant ladies’ models that strive for quality and comfort has helped the brand to conquer new markets. The decisive factors in this process have been the modernisation of the company’s technology, the training of its employees, administrative rationalization and commercial expansion. After having consolidated its presence in the European Union, Pinto Di Blu is now looking to expand overseas.
24-25
footwear
CR7 FOOTWEAR
THE BEST IN THE WORLD VENTURES INTO FOOTWEAR
After clothing and underwear, Cristiano Ronaldo’s latest investment is in footwear. The best player in the world announced in July the creation of the brand CR7 Footwear and the first collection was already presented to industry professionals in September at The Micam. Although the official launch of the brand is only scheduled for February 2015, at an event that will be trumpeted with all the glamour that Cristiano Ronaldo brings to his projects, it is already known that 11 stores are under contract to open in the Persian Gulf. by Ilídia Pinto
Fully manufactured in Portugal, CR7 shoes have already secured a presence in 30 markets, six of them in the Persian Gulf, through an agreement to give the exclusive franchise rights to Marka, a mixed capital company specialising in retail in the United Arab Emirates. The first of the 11 stores will open to the public in February 2015. In Portugal, the brand will be distributed exclusively by the Brodheim group, which already represents such brands as Armani, Guess and Furla, amongst many others. Created and developed “in the image, style, behaviour and performance” of Cristiano Ronaldo, on and off the pitch, the new brand of footwear aims at satisfying all those who “identify with the excellence, performance and sophistication in the product”. Targeting people with a “casual and relaxed lifestyle”, the aim of CR7 Footwear is to position itself in the “premium and luxury fashion” segment and is produced by some of the most reputable Portuguese footwear companies. 26-27
On the brand’s website, www.cr7footwear.com, Ronaldo even says that manufacture is in the hands of “some of the best craftsmen in the world”. He guarantees “strict quality control” as well as “scrupulous use” of “top quality” raw material - factors that ensure a “unique final product”. Not forgetting, of course, the “constant respect for working conditions”.
Besides the best leather, CR7 footwear will have an “irreproachable design” and “great attention” to detail, sophistication and finishes that are to be “perfect”. Some details in the collection that is already known include metal plates with the name Cristiano Ronaldo applied to the heels of the most classic shoes, and the logo embossed in the leather. In the sneakers, the CR7 motif is stamped throughout the rubber sole.
TONY MIRANDA LUXURY FOOTWEAR IS THE NEW CHALLENGE FOR THE DESIGNER
Tony Miranda’s creations in the world of high fashion have earned him loyal followers in many Middle Eastern countries and Africa, the US and even in Paris. It is commonly said of the renowned Portuguese designer, who worked in Paris with Joeph Camps and Ted Lapidus, that he dresses kings, princes, heads of State, bankers and businessmen in the four corners of the world, whose names he is bound by a duty of confidentiality not to disclose. But it is known that he has captivated personalities such as Jacques Chirac, Prince Turki, Kamal Adham, Brigitte Bardot, the Shah of Iran, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the prince of Saudi Arabia, Saud Al Faisal, Charles Aznavour and Jacques Brel. In couture, Tony Miranda has nothing more to prove. But keen to make a total look available to his customers, he has now launched a line of premium footwear. The Tony Miranda ‘Prime Shoes’ collection was presented at The Micam in September, and consists of 40 luxury models, developed in his own factory using artisanal methods, within a project that is closely connected with high-fashion design. “It was important to control this process. The creative development and the choice of materials are not
enough, it is important to be behind all the work, to monitor its birth and its first steps... “, the designer explained. The “judicious choice” of materials - from exotic leathers, veal skin, frosted lambskin, among others - combine with the design, comfort and elegance to make Tony Miranda shoes a unique product. Special emphasis is placed on the crocodile skin shoe, embedded with gold and diamonds, that can be personalised with the customer’s name, propelling the Tony Miranda brand to the pinnacle of luxury and refinement. Accessories are another area in which the designer is investing. For the start of the Football World Cup he has designed a limited edition of cufflinks in the shape of a football, available in gold or silver, with or without diamonds, duly accompanied by a certificate of guarantee. For Cristiano Ronaldo, he has designed a special pair in pink gold and encrusted with 7 diamonds, which he offered to the captain of Portugal’s National Squad.
GREEN photo: frederico martins
I S T H E WARMEST STYLING: FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA
COLOR 28-29
Top, hot pants and belt - NUNO BALTAZAR
Shoes - NOBRAND Jacket, shirt and shorts - LUÍS CARVALHO
Shoes - CLAYS Dress - PEDRO PEDRO
Top - HUGO COSTA Sunglasses - MYKITA
Shoes - CALÇADO MIRRÓ Dress - PEDRO PEDRO
Shorts - MAFALDA FONSECA
Shoes - EXCEED Trench coat and shorts - MAFALDA FONSECA
Shoes - LEMON JELLY Body and belt - LUÍS BUCHINHO Sunglasses - MYKITA / DAMIR DOMA
Shoes - PARADIGMA Parka, sweatshirt and shorts - HUGO COSTA
Shoes - FLY LONDON Jacket, shirt and trousers - LUÍS CARVALHO
Top and hot pants - LUĂ?S BUCHINHO Sunglasses - MYKITA
Shoes - CAMPOBELLO Jacket and shorts - MAFALDA FONSECA
Shoes - SILVIA REBATTO Jacket, hot pants, skirt and belt - LUÍS BUCHINHO
Shoes - BASILIUS Dress - NUNO BALTAZAR
Bag - ELENCO Top, hot pants and belt - NUNO BALTAZAR
production PAULO GONÇALVES 'APICCAPS' AND HELENA SILVA 'SNOWBERRY' make up ATELIER PATRÍCIA LIMA hair RUI ROCHA with senscience Shiseido photography assistant PEDRO SÁ styling assistant NELSON LIMA production assistant CLÁUDIA PINTO models Aurelien Muller 'Best Models' Nadya 'L'Agence' RETOUCHING LALALANDSTUDIOS MAKE UP ASSISTANT HELENA ALMEIDA AND PAULA PORTUGAL
Shoes - VALUNI Bomber jacket, top and shorts - HUGO COSTA Sunglasses - MYKITA
Franca Sozzani in her Milan office
interview
FRANCA THE GREAT
Vogue’s Italian edition is celebrating its fiftieth anniversary and its director, Franca Sozzani, gave Portuguese Soul an exclusive interview. Wise words from one of the world’s most powerful editors and a true icon in her own right. by Manuel Arnaut
It’s no overstatement to say that the direction of the fashion industry is decided by a handful of people. Franca Sozzani, 64, director of the Italian edition of Vogue, which has just celebrated its 50th anniversary is definitely one of them. Coming from a middle-class family, which looked down on fashion, Sozzani graduated in Philosophy and Literature from the University of Mantua. After starting her career at Vogue Bambini, she was appointed, at 29, as director of Lei, a magazine for young Italian women. It was there that she began working with unknown photographers who have become today’s greats, such as Peter Lindbergh, Paolo Roversi, Herb Ritts and Steven Meisel, with whom she still collaborates, attesting to her clear interest in powerful images that communicate without the support of words.
48-49
For 26 years, Sozzani has been at the helm of what is considered one of the most controversial and influential magazines ever, and she continues her fearless leadership, proving that fashion is not limited to clothes and trends. It is through the photographic features published that she discusses topics such as racism, the obsession with cosmetic surgery, celebrities’ use of drugs and even the oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico, gloriously illustrated in an edition in which supermodel Kristen McMenamy posed on rocks, painted black, as if she were another victim of the disaster. However, it’s not all acclaim for the editor, whose work is often called into question for her use of the apparent frivolity of fashion to discuss such delicate topics. Her answer? “It’s better to be controversial than go unnoticed.” Brava!
Sessile Lopez shot by Steven Meisel, July 2008
Grande cappello di feltro e velluto, Philip Treacy; collana di legno e oro. Lynn Ban. Pettinature Guido for Redken. Make-up Pat McGrath for Max Factor. Fashion editor Karl Templer.
You became editor of Vogue Italy in 1988. Do you still remember your first day at work? I remember it as if it were yesterday. The Vogue office was still in Piazza Castello, where the magazine was born, and these were very difficult times. I had a very different view of what the magazine had been up to my arrival and there were many complaints because I didn’t respect the classic spirit that Vogue Italy was known for. Could we say that when you arrived you already had a very clear vision of what you wanted? Yes. I knew I didn’t want a magazine only for industry professionals, extremely Italian, in which there could only be Italian brands. My idea was always to create a more international Vogue Italy. And how did you set out to do that? Definitely through images. Since the magazine is published in Italian, it would have to be through an universal language. Pictures need no translation, they essentially convey a message. I often say that I was the inventor of Instagram! [laughter] I did the opposite of the other magazines that use images to support the text. I used text to complement the images. Did the edition celebrating the 50th anniversary (September 2014) take longer than others to complete? No, because I’m the kind of person who likes to do everything at the last moment. Even the exhibition we held to celebrate the anniversary, open since September, was planned in July. However, I do things this way because I don’t fall behind. But I believe we can always do better. I imagine it was a nightmare getting the fifty top models together that make the cover so brilliant... Nightmare is exactly the right word! It was very complicated and difficult, but I think in the end we got the fifty most important women in recent times. It was a great achievement. Throughout your time at Vogue Italy it seems you have tried to get the message across that fashion is more than just clothes. Is this fair to say? Certainly. The way you dress says a lot about you and your personality and I believe that fashion is a perfect mirror of the time in which we live. In all the interviews I’ve read about you, you’re called a rebel or a master of controversy. Do you feel good in this role? I don’t feel rebellious or controversial. I just don’t want my magazine to be a fashion catalogue for wealthy women. Fashion should talk to more people and it’s important to convey the message that this industry is not limited just to clothing. Anyway, it is better to be controversial than go unnoticed.
FRANCA SOZZANI
Water & Oil, shot by Steven Meisel, with supermodel Kristen McMenamy, August 2010
When you think about addressing controversial topics like the oil disaster in the Gulf of Mexico, the promotion of black models and plus size models, and celebrities in detox, are you ever afraid that you might attract negative criticism? Of course, in some cases I think twice. When I decide to risk it, it will never please everyone, but I feel it’s very important to address these issues. Anyway, Vogue Italy is a monthly magazine and if you don’t like what you see, you’ll surely like it the following month. 50-51
What about when they accuse you of using these dramatic issues to sell clothes? Honestly, I don’t read the criticism and what they write. If I did, I’d be totally discouraged. In my opinion, if fashion is the mirror of society, and if three women are killed every day by their husbands or boyfriends, why shouldn’t I use one of the most powerful tools for addressing this issue? I can’t see what the problem is! Of course, not everything I’ve done was perfect, but then we can’t listen to everyone.
Guanto di pelle con decori metallici e piume, Alexander McQueen. Nella pagina accanto. Soprabito di astrakan con inserti di volpe, Dior; top di pelle e gomma, Graeme Armour; gonna di lattice, Hayley Pisaturo. Cintura traforata, Haider Ackermann; booties Ala誰a. In apertura. Gilet di piume, Ann Demeulemeester. Headpiece Gigi Burris; scarpe con piume, Ala誰a.
Abito di cashgora double, Prada. Cintura-corsetto di pelle laserata effetto pizzo, Haider Ackermann.
Corsetto di pelle laserata effetto pizzo, Haider Ackermann; pantaloni sarouel di ecopelle, Krizia Top. Cintura vintage di piume, Southpaw; calze Hayley Pisaturo; boots Ann Demeulemeester.
interview
Editorial Signo di Donna, by Steven Meisel, with plus size models Candice Huffine,Robyn Lawley,Tara Lynn and Marquita Pringe, June 2011
You’re known for the great support you give to young designers. What drives you to be so concerned about them? Nowadays it is more difficult for young designers to make a name for themselves because there is less money and less support. So Vogue Italy works hard to get young designers on the road to success. We run a competition, dedicating one issue to the theme, taking designers to the factories, travelling with them to Dubai, China, Africa... I feel that I have this mission and regard the success of these new names as if they were my own children. Portugal has started to recover from a severe crisis which naturally affected the fashion industry. What advice would you give to our designers? It’s very important to have a strong concept, not to lose sight of it, and you have to be creative, but humble. Humility is essential because even a young designer must also be able to understand the language of the investor or the people who work in factories. And there has to be a compromise between the designer’s vision and what is feasible. After all, the goal is for the clothes to be produced and worn by women in the streets. Anyone not prepared for this should devote themselves to traditional crafts and not fashion. Due to television and the movies, the general public believes that working in a fashion magazine is extremely glamorous. Is that the case? 52-53
Working in a fashion magazine is not only going to cocktails and watching fashion shows. There is a lot of hard work and I sacrificed a lot to get myself into this position. It’s many hours of work a day, and nothing is given away. What part of your work do you like best and least? Working on the pictures is still what interests me most. What I like least is going to shows because we spend endless hours in the car, waiting for the presentations to begin... Fashion editors don’t usually like to make big changes to their look. In your case, do you like to try new things? Having access to every brand in the world, what do you wear? I’m a fashion consumer and I like to change as much as possible. However, I don’t want to become a fashionista, obsessed with the latest trend or the latest brand sensation. I just wear what I think suits me and I like to mix it all up, to create my personal style. A couple of years ago, they said that blogs would replace fashion magazines. Vogue Italy also has a very strong online component. How do you see the future of the printed media? I think the big losers will be the services magazines that focus on helping you lose weight or get a boyfriend. Nowadays, all this information is on the internet, so there’s no need to wait a month for a magazine. On the other hand, I think magazines like Vogue Italy, with their strength in pictures, will always have buyers. The quality
is palpable and people invest in it. Even the youngest. Your son is a photographer and your sister, as well as having directed Elle, is the founder of the cult store 10 Corso Como. Is there a lot of fashion talk in your home? I don’t know if you know, but my father was an engineer, and he thought fashion couldn’t be a profession. My mother, like any middle-class woman, liked clothes, but not obsessively. In other words, we wouldn’t talk about fashion in my house. I can only conclude that sometimes life evolves in a very unexpected way. With regard to my son, he lives in New York, and doesn’t want to talk fashion with me. He cares more for celebrities, video and music. What does Franca Sozzani do when she’s not in the office and doesn’t have to be the director of Vogue Italy? That’s very easy: I sleep, I read a lot and I watch movies. [laughter] I love Russian literature, biographies and films by Kubrick and Fellini. I also like home design magazines and finding new properties around the world. Not everything in life is fashion...
SHOES
WITH
CHARACTER
fashion
REINVENTING TRADITION
Lately it seems that the past has never been so present. The current trend of revisiting styles from other eras, reviving a collective memory, and retrieving items and production techniques from the past is increasingly a reality we can see in a number of areas. The fashion industry is no exception to this trend and there are many Portuguese brands embarking on a ‘return to the roots’, reinventing and giving ‘new life’ to the most diverse products. These ‘renovated classics’ are reclaiming their prominence of former times and assuming a new and refreshing image which, together with quality and design, meets contemporary needs. We set out to learn more about some of the brands that recognise the importance of revisiting the past in order to assert their own identity. by Joana Jervell
CAPOTE’S EMOTION www.capotes.pt
This is a project dedicated to the manufacture and marketing of the Alentejo “capote” (cloak) that, as part of the regional costume, has been reinvented at the hands of Florbela Nunes and Delfina Marques. Being aware of fashion trends, they both try to reinterpret a traditional garment in the light of contemporary concepts of aesthetics, quality and comfort. “Tradition is still very much a part of the cloaks we design, because although we make them functional, we have maintained the essence of the design. The ‘capote’ still has the ‘soul’ that makes it such a reference piece”, they say. A certain elegance has been added to the garments to provide an urban look, and the Capote’s Emotion range also includes Alentejo overcoats, included in the Winter 2014 collection. The quality of materials is also notable, which are totally Portuguese and use environmentally sustainable fabrics like wool, satin linings and natural lamb fur. 54-55
CORTEBEL www.cortebel.eu
Cortebel, founded in 1965, started by producing boots for the Portuguese Army, and in the ‘80s and ‘90s also supplied several international brands, while developing its own line of footwear. About 2 years ago Artur Piano, determined to recover the ‘army boots’ he bought in the ‘70s, decided to invest in the resurgence of the brand that affected him in a very special way: the Cortebel. “The passion was rekindled”, Artur said, when he entered the factory that produced his boots for the first time. Over nearly 50 years (during which it went through several phases) the same plant proved capable of resuming its activity and meeting new challenges. “I retrieved the oldest logo I could find, aimed the vintage product at specific stores and began experimenting with designs and materials”, he recalls. Nowadays, Cortebel continues to draw on the unique models from decades ago that define the spirit of the brand, while maintaining production for foreign brands. It is currently enjoying a strong market presence - with notable collaborations with artists invited to illustrate and personalise its models - while at the same time organising its products as a Portuguese brand with history and memory. The company’s main focus is on innovation in comfort and orthopaedic footwear.
PELCOR www.pelcor.pt
As a brand of fashion accessories in cork, Pelcor pays homage to tradition in the artisanal approach that it employs across its product range. Sandra Correia, a third generation member of a family that has always worked in the cork industry, is the name that immediately stands out when talking about Pelcor. With the aim of developing a new language for cork leather, 2003 saw the launch of her first creation: an umbrella made entirely of cork skin. Pelcor was born shortly afterwards, offering products for the office and the home and fashion accessories, with an emphasis on design and creativity. There have been a number of partnerships with designers and companies, most notably the collaboration with Moda Lisboa, an event for which it has developed a series of limited editions. Pelcor’s track record also includes the creation of customised pieces for Barack Obama, Hillary Clinton, Angela Merkel and Madonna. It recently presented a new woven texture, called ‘weave’, which is marked by details that facilitate the products’ use in day-to-day life, such as metallic closures and interior pockets. The creative director of this capsule collection, manufactured completely manually, is Eduarda Abbondanza, currently responsible for the brand’s new direction.
fashion
TAILORING IS IN FASHION
The tailoring profession is not disappearing. The taste for bespoke clothing is returning to male habits and is also enticing female customers due to the beauty of the tailoring and the elegance it gives the body, regardless of whether it has a more stylized or less sculpted silhouette. The secrets of this art are in concealing any imperfections and in the choice of fabrics and details that provide a touch of exclusivity and uniqueness to each piece. Portuguese Soul chatted with three Portuguese tailors, two in classic tailoring and one in industrial tailoring: Paul Battista, Ayres Gonçalo and Fernando Pereira, respectively. by Catarina Vasques Rito
Paulo Battista, the modern tailor One’s image is like one’s visiting card and Paulo Battista epitomises this idea, dressed in a two-piece double breasted suit he made for himself, and tie, in a happy combination of English tradition and Italian irreverence. The beard and slightly turned-up moustache draw attention to a new wave haircut, shaved at the back and sides and longer on the top, styled with gel. With his melodious voice and sweet look, Battista is a young Lisbon man of 36, and the father of three children. “When I was studying I was always sorry that Lisbon was my home town, because my friends all went home in the country for Christmas, Easter and summer holidays and I always stayed in the same place,” he confesses. He was raised by his mother, who dedicated her whole life to “providing the best possible education for her son,” and this eventually bore fruit. Maybe he didn’t study in college “by choice” but he found a career that he “never thought would be connected to tailoring”. In the family tradition, he is the first to work in this area, which for many is disappearing, but in fact there are more and more “young people who want to learn the craft, which is often stymied by the masters”. He is a very focused man and very early on began to envision a path very much his own. This led him to work with brands such as Massimo Dutti, where he was “assistant manager of the night shift at the Colombo store, geared to the men’s line, in particular the tailoring department. Meanwhile, he accepted the challenge offered by El Corte Inglês in Lisbon, which eventually sent him on a course in cutting at the La Confiança Tailoring School in Madrid. “My relationship with neighbouring Spain is very special because my mother worked there for many years, and 56-57
I ended up living there as a child and returning there to study was natural”. On completion of the course, Paulo Battista returned to El Corte Inglês and continued his training at the Tailoring School in Lisbon. Circumstances eventually led him to the shop Rosa & Teixeira where he spent seven years in direct contact with clients and learned more about the profession, before realising that his was a different destiny. “I am methodical. Over the years, I gradually bought the tools that would be important come the day when I would be able to create my own space. Although I thought this wouldn’t happen quite so soon, circumstances intervened and six months ago I rented this small space in the centre of Lisbon, on the 5th floor of 21 Rua Rodrigues Sampaio, where I have a small team of seamstresses and a studio to receive people and do fittings”. The clientele is mostly male, between 28 and 60, but “women also come for some pieces after seeing their husbands and boyfriends wearing ‘made to measure’ clothes, and because the male style is fashionable and they like the results they see”. The exclusivity is given added value by using the best raw materials, fabrics made of the finest wool and silk, in single or double weft, on a manual or industrial loom, such as those the Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry and Scabal brands produce. Paulo Battista’s client portfolio includes businessmen, lawyers, economists and advertising executives. “In some cases, they are used to seeing their parents and grandparents using tailors, a family tradition that is passed on to the new generations; and in other cases they are men who simply love fashion, and pay particular attention to their image, and for whom the tailor meets the basic requirement for excellence in the making and the detail.” A suit takes between three weeks and two months to make, “depending on the fabric, the cut and the body”.
What if classic tailoring were to surrender to modernisation? Fernando Pereira is proof of that, since he has the basics of the craft of a classic tailor, taking measurements, choosing fabrics and helping the customer to understand the techniques for manufacturing the raw material, although he does not make the pieces himself. It would never be possible to see this industrial ‘made to measure’ tailor scoring fabrics to prepare for cutting. “Basically, what I do is a specialised tailoring service without making the final product. I receive customers by appointment, try to understand their tastes, get to know the peculiarities of their body, which is never symmetrical, and help them choose the raw material, according to the customer’s budget. After all this, I send the order to some of the best Portuguese clothing factories and the item required arrives between three and six weeks later.” He opened his first studio in 2005, always behind closed doors, and seeing clients by appointment, in the basement of number 36 at Rua D. Francisco Manuel de Melo where, until recently, he served those seeking excellent quality in a suit. But because the market has changed and the taste for bespoke clothing is gaining more and more followers, Fernando Pereira has opened a new space at 107-B Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, opposite the Hotel Ritz Four Seasons. “It’s a shop, but not in the conventional sense because it’s not open to the public. Once again, every client must call to make an appointment so he can be served with the attention he desires and deserves. It may not seem so, but men like their privacy when they go to buy clothes, especially at this level of exclusivity. We’re talking about suits that range from a thousand euros to wherever your fancy takes you, because there are fabrics that cost a fortune per square metre”. The better
the fabric, the better the weft and the wool, the greater the complexity of the thread, the higher the final bill. But those looking for a tailor know that the product they are ordering is luxurious. “suMisura is a concept of measurement for people who love constructive beauty. A man coming here can leave with a complete wardrobe, which includes underwear, basic and elaborate key pieces and accessories.” The shoes are all made to order by De Gier, a Portuguese factory also producing international luxury brands like Prada. Fernando Pereira is a connoisseur of the art of making clothing. He knows the techniques and he has a way with words, creating the right environment to attract those who seek him. Female clients are also welcome, but the old studio had to be completely transformed to cater for this segment. “Men and women have different approaches and ways of buying. I chose to create two specific environments for each of these clienteles, although they can still visit me in either of the workshops.” The space next to the Ritz Hotel has been decorated with great care, providing the best brands of fabrics in the world and the best and most expensive ties in the market. This passion for excellence means that Fernando Pereira regularly visits trade fairs and presentations both at home and abroad, meeting renowned craftsmen from classic tailoring and the clothing industry. “The customer has to feel that he is cherished, appreciated and listened to. If the clothes are well made and make him look good, he is won over and remains loyal. Fortunately, men are more attentive to their image and are happy to indulge their little private pleasures.”
photos Nuno Fernandes Pinto
Fernando Pereira, the industrial tailor
fashion
Ayres Gonçalo, the traditional tailor Tradition is still what it was. Coming from a family of tailors, Ayres Gonçalo has ended up following in the footsteps of his grandfathers. His grandfather made Oliveira Salazar’s last suit, and his grandmother was a seamstress. “I remember going to my grandfather’s workshop after school to watch him work, cut out the pieces, draw the cut with white chalk and do the fittings with the clients. I never imagined myself doing anything else”. He divides his time between his main studio in Porto, at Praça Filipa de Lencastre, and his studio in Lisbon, on the fourth floor at 19 Rua Rodrigues Sampaio, where he receives clients “by appointment; to take measurements, choose fabrics and fine-tune the details”. He is married, and has a five-month old son, who he would like, one day “to follow in the profession, since both parents have a tradition in tailoring”. He tried to study in Portugal, but chosen Madrid, where he worked during the day with the tailor Pedro Muñoz and studied at night at the Advanced Tailoring School of the Spanish Society of Tailors. After finishing his studies and already with some professional experience, he chosen to work in Savile Row, a street in London known for its sartorial luxury. “I was amazed at what I saw. I was 24, and in three months I found a job in one of the finest tailoring houses, Gieves&Hawkes”, with three hundred years of tradition, accustomed to dressing local personalities such as Prince Charles, and where the designer Alexander McQueen began his career in fashion. After his incursion into the land of Her Majesty, he moved to New York, where he worked with Michael Andrews Bespoke, from whom he learned how to manage the business, since Michael Andrews had left his profession as a corporate attorney to invest in its own tailoring project. “My client has no time to lose. 58-59
He comes to the studio in Lisbon or Porto, takes the opportunity to recharge his phone, drinks a glass of champagne and chooses one or more suits. We take measurements if necessary, and three months later he has his suits, shirts and ties.” The English style stands out in his work and in the image of the spaces he has created to accommodate his customers and set up his team of seamstresses. “Tailoring is not just a man’s profession, and there are already some women learning this art. It is a pleasure to see that a fascination with this craft is attracting more and more young people and customers, regardless of whether they are men or women.” Men dominate his client’s portfolio, but women are also using his services for one or two suits, attracted by the way their “husbands dress”. “This is an art that involves a ritual of patience, almost like a tasting. The constructive and creative process, to some extent, has very particular timings. The result is always a valuable one, both for us, the professionals, and for the client.” At 33, Ayres Gonçalo feels that he has made the right choice and has “at no time had any doubts that this was the way”. After various international forays, it was during a conversation with a friend that he realised he would like to “return to Portugal”. He has a particular passion for double-breasted jackets and blazers (suit jackets with an emblem on the lapel), pieces that he likes to make for those who enjoy them.
MANUEL
DUPONT
WWW.MANUELDUPONT.COM
photo: frederico martins STYLING: FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA
GLITTER BOY clothing NAIR XAVIER Footwear J. REINALDO
60-61
production PAULO GONÇALVES 'APICCAPS' AND HELENA SILVA 'SNOWBERRY' make up ATELIER PATRÍCIA LIMA make up ASSISTANT PAULA PORTUGAL hair RUI ROCHA with senscience Shiseido photography assistant PEDRO SÁ styling assistant NELSON LIMA production assistant CLÁUDIA PINTO models JOÃO PACHECO 'BLAST MODELS' GABRIEL LAMEGO 'WE ARE MODELS' VASCO COELHO 'KARACTER' JOÃO VENTOSA 'JUST MODELS' DUKIN SEO 'L'AGENCE' RETOUCHING LALALANDSTUDIOS
72-73
catwalk
OLGA NORONHA
THE LEGACY OF Celebrating the Legacy of Portuguese fashion, ModaLisboa once again presented the capital Lisbon with the pulse of what is best in Portugal. For three days, the proposals were paraded on the catwalk at Pátio da Galé, which opened its doors to Portuguese creativity. by Cláudia Pinto
ALEXANDRA MOURA 74-75
MIGUEL VIEIRA
There were a total of 18 shows that filled Pátio da Galé with the proposals and trends for the coming hot season. Hundreds of journalists, dozens of buyers and visitors were present for another celebration of Portuguese fashion. Women are stronger than ever, and their role in society was very much at the forefront of this edition. Once again, the nude becomes central for the summer, black and white follow the trend for simplicity and the naturalness that marks the pulse for another season.
MODALISBOA The bubbling of New Blood set the tone for the start of three days of parades, with the bold, creative proposals from those who now plan to continue the legacy of Portuguese fashion. Olga Noronha, Catarina Oliveira, Banda, Rua 148, Inês Duvale, Juliana Cunha, Nair Xavier, Cristina Real, Andrea Lazzari and Joaquim Correia had the opportunity to present to the national and international public what the New Portuguese Blood breathes. An increasingly important platform for the launch of new Portuguese talent on the international scene. Alexandra Moura opened the beginning of the Legacy with a collection inspired by the importance of reverses. Reversing is the watchword for a series of irreverent proposals based on deconstruction and the subtlety of the composition of materials and details. Asymmetry, overlays and transparencies prevail, in a set of proposals dominated by denim. Indigo blue, black and the combination of different shades of white resurface. On the first day, Lisbon City Hall received the proposals from Ricardo Preto. The place, closely linked to the history of Lisbon, set the scene for the designer’s matching sets in a collection that focused on the I-us dichotomy, a hymn to the inner relationship and the desire for personal extrapolation. Contemporary warriors honour the role of women in today’s society, in a set of proposals that increase the knowledge and desires of the modern woman. And so the first day came to an end.
Following Christophe Sauvat and Ricardo Andrez, Filipe Faísca set the pace for the second day of ModaLisboa. The partnership with Joana Vasconcelos, in the launch of the piece Call Center, set the tone for the start of the show. A call for the importance of women, the pressure of time, and the new vices of men. A set of proposals that raise the female silhouette to where it belongs. The proposals present a clear contrast between fluidity and volumes, with structured, geometric silhouettes. Black, grey and white once again mark the essential colours for next summer. CIA.Marítima came next, paving the way for the presentation from Luís Carvalho. After a fiery red winter, the Portuguese creator focused on nude tones such as aquamarine, green and yellow, basing his proposals on one of the most classic pieces in any wardrobe: the blazer. The piece is deconstructed using the most sporting details and the choice of more relaxed materials like cotton. It is a more serene collection, in which the formal is deconstructed into comfortable, lightweight pieces. For the first time, Joan da’graça created the shoes for the collection, a partnership that combines the best of both worlds.
Miguel Vieira marked one of the high points of the event in presenting his collections in separate shows. The men’s and women’s collections were presented on different days, clearly demonstrating the designer’s development. With proposals inspired by relaxed elegance that play on a range of details contrasting the formal and the informal, Miguel Vieira presented sets for a simple woman who values sport as a new lifestyle. The ultra feminine aspect is celebrated, be it in a loose, structured silhouette, or with a well-defined waistline. An encounter with true personality, through simplicity and minimalism. The colour palette varies between the different whites, lavender and night-black, in a combination of formal and informal details that convey a relaxed and feminine spirit.
photos ModaLisboa
catwalk
FILiPE FAÍSCA PEDRO PEDRO
CARLOS GIL
The proposals for men are supported by structured shoulders and combinations of cuts using informal and classic patterned fabrics. A suit is no longer just a suit, becoming a way of being in life. The more relaxed cut will be essential next summer, where you can see a clear evolution in the choice of more traditional and more luxurious materials, giving new life to the looks. Style and elegance continue to be the Portuguese designer’s brand image. Trainers and glove shoes are the great trend in the Miguel Vieira collection, combining the most elegant suits with the comfort and relaxation of sneakers. Match-point marks the turning point for Carlos Gil. The designer offered the public at ModaLisboa a collection of matching sets inspired by the different stages of life. Stitches and lines bring the geometric and stylised prints alive, deconstructing a rigid look through the motions of the structured silhouettes and the flowing volumes. The contrast is clear between black and white, with powder pink, yellow and powder-blue notes.
76-77
Lick me, eat me, taste me, kiss me, opened the third day of ModaLisboa, presenting the concept for the proposal from Dino Alves. For next summer, the designer chose his knowledge of the human being as his source of inspiration. In the same way that we know food, so can the human being, metaphorically, be recognised through the deepest senses. Understanding the taste of a person, in the sense of knowing their character and their beliefs, the search for inner knowledge, sets the tone for his proposals for the warm season. There is asymmetry in the Dino Alves proposals, with wavy ruffles that come apart from the seams, appearing to run down the piece. The show was marked by the debut of J Reinaldo footwear for the designer’s sets in relaxed and perfectly studied models. The final day of ModaLisboa soon arrived. The 1930s made a return, in a mixture of sobriety and sophistication. It was Pedro Pedro setting the mood. With it, came the inspiration of the navy and the sensuality of the outdoors and casual sport was made erotic. Sports materials are brought to life: new cuts and new finishes, with well-defined lines and marked silhouettes are transformed into classic pieces. Once again, the emphasis was on coats and blazers, in conjunction with increasingly long skirts.
The partnership with the Basilius footwear brand continues to make strides in the national and international scene and is already one of the main parts of the designer’s collection. Nuno Gama brought the October edition of the event dedicated to Portuguese fashion to a close in great style. Inspired once again by Portuguese traditions, he opted to pay tribute to the Arrábida hills, a place linked to his childhood. The contrast between nature and urban eclecticism marks the incessant search for the male wardrobe. The colour palette carries us to a perfect mountain setting. Khaki greens honour nature in its pure state, contrasting with blue, the unique beauty of the sea. The tones merge, assembling notes of red of small mountain berries and of “succulent” orange. More than parades, ModaLisboa has established itself in the national and international scene as a unique platform for the promotion of what is best in Portuguese fashion. A series of conferences, debates and exhibitions accompanied the designers’ presentations on the catwalk. It is an event that is increasingly tied to art, culture and the promotion of young talent. A search that continues, edition after edition, to leave a legacy in the tradition of Portuguese fashion.
GINO-B.COM
catwalk
PORTUGAL SNAPSHOT by Catarina Vasques Rito
Portuguese Soul once asked foreign journalists coming to Lisbon to cover Moda Lisboa (Lisbon Fashion Week), what they thought about Portuguese fashion. In the last edition of this platform, (10 to 12 October,) we once again chatted with a number of international media professionals, asking them what they thought of the Portuguese people. From Europe to the United States, we talked with four professionals and they answered as follows‌ 78-79
Paris, France
Marcellous Jones Editor-in-chief of Fashion Insider, a television program and male fashion journalist Invited to Moda Lisboa since 2007 Invited to Portugal Fashion in 2011
“I have been coming to Lisbon on average two to three times a year since October 2009, and over this time I have got to know the Portuguese people and have studied their way of life. I always had the idea that the Portuguese were nice and kind, ambitious, friendly and charming. I deal with lots of internationally famous people, mainly in the world of fashion, and there are always people asking me to introduce them to this person or that person. With the Portuguese it’s not quite like that. They are literally not concerned or interested in becoming friends with someone just because that person is the “daughter or friend of soand-so…” However, the Portuguese don’t really care about who your family is or what kind of connections you have. If they like you, they like you and only you for who YOU are and not WHAT you can do for them or what you represent. You will never find that in other cities like Paris, Milan or London. And when the Portuguese like you, they want to invite you to show you around their city, invite you to dinner at their home, take you out for drinks and even go clubbling with you. As I said, I’ve been to Portugal -- now that I think about it -- a total of 12 times. This has always been my opinion of the Portuguese. It has never changed.”
New York, United States
Angela Gilltrap Editor-in-chief of the magazine Heaven in Heels Invited to Moda Lisboa since 2007
I believe that through fashion we are able to understand the essence of a people, as it is an area that reflects their socio-economic situation, traditions and cultural habits. I see the Portuguese as being faithful to their traditions and respecting them, while at the same time striving to evolve, grow and lend voice to their needs for affirmation. In this process we have to learn to deal with the negative and positive aspects of the country and learn how to overcome them. I have been visiting Portugal, Lisbon in particular, for seven years, and I have always admired the way I have been received, I feel welcome here. As a fashion professional, I like the way your fashion mixes tradition with the contemporary, both in terms of cut and in the quest for new textures and raw materials, from the most conventional to the most boldly technological”.
photos Nuno Fernandes Pinto
Paris, France
Jean-Luc Dupont Sistème D (online magazine) Invited to Moda Lisbon 2009
In general the Portuguese are extremely nice and friendly. They transmit serenity and pleasure in living life and how they live it, unlike us French, who can’t seem to adopt a positive posture. From the point of view of fashion I think they have a vision that is more trendy, and less one of style. There is a need to faithfully follow the dictates imposed by fashion marketing and therefore a greater distancing from innovation, original creativity and objectivity of concept. Portuguese fashion is more concerned with following fashion as opposed to making fashion. They transmit resignation, neutrality and fashion is the mirror of individuality, working on one’s personality and not uniformity”.
Munich, Germany
Oliver Rauh 74 Magazine
Invited to Moda Lisbon 2004 Whenever I am in Lisbon I see slight changes in people’s care over their image, paying attention to a trend but without following it to the letter. In general the way the Portuguese dress is a sad affair. The population in general uses a palette of colours that is not very appealing, preferring practical type clothes. However, their affability and good nature ends up by contrasting with their posture. The wealthier classes show that they have money and power by choosing traditionally elegant clothes, not at all bold but following conventional dictates. I think that the Portuguese, regardless of their standard of living, could have a more appealing and interesting approach to fashion, given that Portugal has know-how and is important in this area of fashion, and is gaining interest in Europe”. 80-81
COLLECTION
photo: frederico martins STYLING: FERNANDO BASTOS PEREIRA
SIGRID Clothes: NUNO BALTAZAR Shoes: JJ HEITOR for NUNO BALTAZAR
82-83
catw
walk
production make up hair photography assistant styling assistant models RETOUCHING
HELENA SILVA 'SNOWBERRY' ATELIER PATRÍCIA LIMA RUI ROCHA with senscience Shiseido PEDRO SÁ NELSON LIMA SIGRID VIEIRA 'WE ARE MODELS' LALALANDSTUDIOS
catwalk
35th EDITION OF
photos Portugal Fashion
After a first day of fashion shows in Lisbon which included Hibu, João Melo e Costa, Storytailors, Alves/Gonçalves and TM Collection by Teresa Martins, the following day Portugal Fashion moved on to Porto with a total of 33 shows, alternating between renowned names in national fashion, young designers and the clothing and footwear industries.
92-93
by Joana Jervell
FÁTIMA LOPES
GOLDMUD ALEXANDRA MOURA A turnout of 30,000 people - with the strong presence of more than 100 foreign journalists and buyers in this 35th edition - and the clear emphasis on promoting business, strengthen the growth and the national and international consolidation of this event. In Porto, contrary to the usual, it was not only the Edifício da Alfândega (Customs House) to ‘dress up’ with proposals for next Spring-Summer 2015. The Palácio dos Correios, the Porto Music Conservatory and the Monastery of São Bento da Vitória also served as stages for the trends for the warm season. Under the theme ‘Sprinkle’, the organisers aimed at ‘sprinkling’ both cities with fashion and design, gathering together a total of 24 designers, 9 clothing brands, 6 footwear brands and 4 fashion schools. A highlight was the Bloom project, which supports and promotes emerging young talent, and has gained prominence within Portugal Fashion, as attested by this year’s 12 shows. Pedro Neto, João Rola, Catarina Santos and Eduardo Amorim, winners of the last edition of the competition held as part of this event, were joined by Hibu, João Melo e Costa, Pilar Pastor, Rita Gilman, Filipe Martinho, Teresa Abrunhosa, Klar, Carla Pontes and Mafalda Fonseca. The Árvore, Porto Fashion, ESAD and Modatex schools were also represented.
DANIELA BARROS
JÚLIO TORCATO
On the evening of the 23rd of October, the Palácio dos Correios presented proposals by Susana Bettencourt, Estelita Mendonça, Daniela Barros, Hugo Costa and Anabela Baldaque, whose ‘Anywhere’ collection evoked a romantic but outright modern and bohemian woman. The various shades of blue, light pink, beige and mustard yellow highlighted a sophisticated silhouette, inspired by the 1920s and ‘50s, and marked by silks, lace, brocades, tulles and feather appliqués.
On the last day of the event, Luís Buchinho presented his proposals at the Conservatory of Music, creating with ‘Happy Hour’ sexy, flirtatious silhouettes that evoked the lively, relaxed atmosphere of the ‘pool party’. Amongst the cocktail dresses with subtle sporty touches and swimwear with a retro influence, pastel tones predominated, particularly light green, sky blue, lilac and mauve, joined by black, white and magenta.
The next day, the Porto Customs House staged shows by, amongst others, Júlio Torcato, Meam by Ricardo Preto, Katty Xiomara (whose ‘retrofuturistic’ collection presented delicate ultra girly models, which developed into more structured volumes), Diogo Miranda (who transported us into the universe of ‘safaris’, deconstructing male pieces to provide a refined femininity) and, finally, Luís Onofre, who brought to the catwalk the giddying stiletto heels, without neglecting flat heels and tennis shoes, revisiting the sports line introduced in the previous season. The metallic details (with a predominance of gold) and the Swarovsky crystals enhance materials like fur, suede, varnishes and satins, highlight by the designer in his elegant creations for next SpringSummer.
A highlight was the collective show of footwear brands - Dkode, Fly London, Goldmud and Alexandra Moura, J. Reinaldo, Nobrand and Silvia Rebatto, graced by the presence of Cláudia Vieira who, as a symbolic gesture donated the shoes she was wearing to the ‘Vamos Calçar Portugal’ initiative by Cáritas of Porto.
RICARDO PRETO
DIOGO MIRANDA
The night of the 25th of October was also extended to Mosteiro da Vitória, for an intimate setting that hosted shows by Nuno Baltazar (a long awaited return after a gap of eight years from the Portugal Fashion catwalk) and Miguel Vieira. Film, more specifically the movie “Le Mépris” by Jean-Luc Godard, with Brigitte Bardot, was the starting point for the collection with the same name, marked by sophisticated pieces with hefty volumes (in the shoulders and sleeves) that contrasted with more fluid and delicate fashion sets. Miguel Vieira explored a “relaxed elegance” with models wearing backpacks and tennis shoes, suggesting a contemporary, sporty and invariably luxurious style.
FLY LONDON 94-95
Returning to the Customs House, the closing ceremony of the event fell to Fátima Lopes, who took inspiration from the 1960s and the musical show “Sweet Charity” to present a collection dominated by crochet, silk, lace, leather and wool, in which the novel swimwear line for next Summer was shown to the people of Porto. Another edition of the Portugal Fashion ended, wrapped spent in high temperatures not only on the catwalks but also outside, with thermometers in Porto registering surprisingly pleasant temperature above 22ºC.
Mr. COOL
ANDRÉ SARAIVA SHOT AT MUDE, LISBON
interview
André Saraiva is one of the most respected artists and businessmen in the fashion world. Portuguese Soul spoke with him. by Manuel Arnaut
When no-one knew what street art was in Europe, André Saraiva, born in Sweden of Portuguese parents, was already running away from the police with a spray can in his hand. However, the man who used to illegally spray the world’s walls with the figure of Mr. A is today one of the most prestigious artists and businessmen in the fashion world. His track record includes the role of creative director for the French edition of L’Officiel Hommes and various night clubs where everyone wants to get in, such as the recently opened Castel, in Paris, and Le Baron, in Xanghai. 96-97
Perhaps one of his most significant projects of late was the great exhibition in the MUDE (Design and Fashion Museum, Francisco Capelo’s Collection) from July to October 2014, featuring the best of his works. These include his fake posters announcing concerts that never took place, the famous Mickey Mouse sporting an erection and, of course, his iconic Mr. A. You can take the graffitist out of the street, but you can’t take the graffiti out of the lad.
Your MUDE exhibition recently closed. Are you happy with the result of this project? I’m so happy…The exhibition was more popular than I was expecting. They even extended the show for an extra month. I was really happy it was so well received. Looking back, would you do anything different? No. I know that next time I’ll tell a different story but it was nice to have feedback from my home country. Your parents are Portuguese, but you live abroad. What was it like to rediscover Portugal? My blood and my passport are Portuguese. I never stopped coming back. This was always part of my idea. Even though I lived all around the world, I speak Portuguese with my mother.
THE ICONIC MR.A DRAWING
It was announced in MUDE that you will be doing a big intervention in Jardim Boto Machado, in Lisbon. Do you have any idea of what you want to do? That’s my next big project. It’s a dream come true. I‘m working with Viúva Lamego, painting almost 2 000 square feet panels. We’ve started painting the tiles but we’ll take a few months to finish the project. I also have the support of MUDE and the city of Lisbon. You started doing street art 20 years ago, when this art form was considered illegal. How do you see the evolution of this activity from something underground to a hype phenomenon? It was actually more than 30 years ago. It was the early start of graffiti in Europe. When we started we created our own code and language. Of course it was illegal, that’s part of its essence. I feel that any big movement of art through our history always take time for people to understand.
Some street artists are very critical about other street artists that take their work to museums, saying that this goes against its essence. How do you respond to this? I’m always annoyed by the expression “street art”. Graffiti stays in the street. It’s an illegal action made by people with talent, but also by people without talent. It’s more the action than the result. That’s totally different from intimate projects made by people who come from graffiti, but who are hired to work as regular artists. How did you create the Mr. A drawing? We know that some years ago you could draw around ten Mr. As per day on the walls of Paris. Mr. A was one of the first figurative drawings to represent my name and myself. That was a bit of a revolution in the graffiti world. I was tired of writing my name. Mr. A was more fun and a universal way to express myself instead of writing my name.
catwalk
ANDRÉ SARAIVA EXHIBITION AT MUDE
There’s a cool aura around everything you do, from hotels to night clubs, to creative direction of magazines. What makes cool cool? I don’t know what cool means. The only thing I know is that everything I do is not lined by normal business rules. I’m driven by soul, art and bringing people together. I think places are made by the people. Places don’t make people.
98-99
You recently opened two nightclubs, one in Shanghai and one in Paris, both with a very strict door policy, like in a members club. Why did you choose to position your businesses like this? It’s a members club but very open. Most of the artists who don’t have money have free membership cards. Those who have money pay, those who don’t, don’t pay.
What’s the part you enjoy the most about working as Creative Director of L’Officiel Hommes? My magazine is a place to speak about things that I like and to expose people that I like and believe in. It’s a space to produce and show their work.
BORN WILD photo CARMO AMORIM STYLING HUGO COSTA MAKE UP Daniela Reis Hair Bruno Bessa Cruz with Kerastase
100-101
Parka - InĂŞs Duvale Dress - Hibu Sneakers - Hugo Costa
Sweat Shirt - Hugo Costa Skirt - Pedro Neto
Jacket - Susana Bettencourt Backpack - Hugo Costa
Sneakers - Hugo Costa Tank - Top Pedro Neto Short - Hugo Costa
Shoes - Pedro Neto Jacket - InĂŞs Duvale Dress - Hugo Costa Clutch - Pedro Neto
Jacket - Hugo Costa Tank top - Hugo Costa Trousers - Pedro Neto
Sweat - Hugo Costa Shorts - Susana Bettencourt
Jacket - Hibu
interview
WHAT’S UP... ANA VIRIATO photoS ÉLIO NOGUEIRA Make up and hair mónica mota
Ana Viriato has been one of the most famous faces on Portuguese television for eight years, having presented high visibility shows such as “Praça da Alegria” and “Verão Total”. At the end of 2013, she decided to take on other projects. But this year she has returned to television to host the show dedicated to Portuguese footwear and fashion, What´s Up – Olhar a moda (A Look at Fashion), an initiative from APICCAPS in partnership with RTP and sponsored by the Compete Programme. We had a chat with Ana Viriato at the Intercontinental Hotel. Dress - Miguel Vieira Earings - Eugénio Campos 110-110
You’ve been away from TV for some time. What made you decide to come back now? I left television because RTP underwent deep restructuring and I was keen to embark on something else. I’m very proud to have participated in shows like “Praça da Alegria” and “Verão Total” where I learned a lot, but I’d like to try new formats and content. Sometimes you need to stand back to analyse where you’re heading and see if that’s where you really want to go. That’s what I did. I was in need of a bit of fresh air.
It’s a project that shows not just how the fashion industry works in Portugal, but also presents its main personalities and the excellent results achieved abroad. It’s a lightweight show for everyone who appreciates fashion.
Why are you returning now? I decided to come back because I miss television too much. I can’t help it.
Has the show anything new to offer to the public? The show is very interesting, very diversified, because it doesn’t just talk about fashion, it talks about all of us, the Portuguese. It talks about the potential of Portugal’s fashion professionals and how they’ve helped the country to attain a prime position internationally. There’s so much to show and make known. This industry and this country have enormous talent.
What attracted you to this “What’s Up – Olhar a Moda” project? First of all, because it’s a very different project from what I’m used to do. And then because there’s no television show in Portugal with this format.
What’s your connection to the world of fashion? I try to always keep up with the new trends, and never miss a fashion show. With What’s Up I’ve already fulfilled one dream: to visit the Paris Fashion Week.
What’s your take on the Portuguese footwear industry? It’s developing considerably, focusing on design combined with quality and even comfort, and this increasingly makes Portugal a great reference abroad. What’s it like being the presenter of “Europe’s sexiest industry”? It’s a challenge. Both on television and the digital sector, the show has had a very interesting impact. Today, you look at Portuguese fashion and its players in a very positive way. This gives me great satisfaction. What was it like to do this photo shoot? It was really fun. I loved the end result.
Special thanks to Intercontinental Hotel
Dress - Daniela Barros Jewellery - Liliana Guerreiro
jewellery
THE COSMOS CAME TO EARTH WITH NEO SKYTALE We met Miguel Gonçalves at a coffee shop in Miguel Bombarda, where all the artists in Porto meet. He is known as an astronomer but he did something that no one in the entire world could do so far. He turned meteorites into jewellery. As a result you can have a 4,5 million years piece on your finger or suspended on your neck. by Joana Soares
If you like original things in your life or if you looking forward special pieces, welcome to Miguel Gonçalves’s new idea of jewellery. Miguel is from Castelo Branco, a Portuguese country town, and came to Oporto in 1996 to study astronomy. He stayed in this city to work and live, building a career as an astronomer and even working as a commentator in a TV program. Now he has a pioneer project. Living beyond stars is what really matters to him. He wanted to give people a chance to have cosmos on their skin. Therefore he created jewellery made with meteorites, which allows every single one of us to touch in more than 4,5 112-113
million years. This takes us to the very beginning of the solar system. Two years ago he asked NASA for a piece of meteorite to make a neckless to himself, a kind of talisman. Then he stumbled into the idea: “why not make something out of this meteorite and create Portuguese jewellery?”. And he did it. He reached his cousin, Sara Lotus, a professional jeweller, with an store in Castelo Branco and his friend, Daniel Oliveira, the artist that manufactures the pieces. The team is having success with the lines created and they have a wide range of price tags. The most expensive article can go up to 100 thousand
euros, but there are more economical lines. Future, Neo Skytale here it goes Miguel says that one of his aims is to join filigree to the meteorite in this new jewellery. By doing this he will highlight Portuguese culture. Everyone is already flirting with Neo Skytale and you can visit them on facebook or in its website. Look for the online shop and have a blast.
tradition
BOBBIN LACE ANCESTRAL ART IN THE SERVICE OF FASHION AND COUTURE
by Ilídia Pinto
An age-old art of knowing how to twist and intertwine tens or even hundreds of threads, the most exquisite pieces of lace to decorate everything from the simplest tablecloths to the most elaborate of wedding dresses, are given life at the experienced hands of lace makers, in a sea of bobbins and pins. There are many examples of great Portuguese fashion designers, from Luís Buchinho to Katty Xiomara, from Isilda Pelicano to Susana Bettencourt. In the most recent edition of Portugal Fashion, in Porto, Susana presented ‘Realignment’, a collection that explores the contrast between the new digital era, nature and craftsmanship - printed pieces on white, yellow and sea green, textures, knitwear, jacquard and, of course, bobbin lace. Among the many memorable creations of haute couture pieces in which bobbin lace occupies a prominent place, João Branco and Luís Sanchez stand out, the duo better known as the Storytailors, who created the ‘Amores Perfeitos’ (Heart’s Delight) wedding dress in partnership with the lace makers of Peniche. “All the details were drawn from ideas inspired by the delicate bobbin lace. As the key, this lace is found throughout the dress. The stitches used were chosen to illustrate their multiplicity, combining tradition and innovation with the introduction of the ‘little rose’ stitch, created by one of the skilled artisans who worked on the lace in this dress”, they explained. But what is bobbin lace? The yarn can be cotton, linen or silk. The thinner it is, the more refined the result. The lines intersect repeatedly to form the chosen pattern and each piece is always unique. Though it is not exclusively Portuguese, bobbin lace is an ancient art that developed particularly amongst fishing communities, like Vila do Conde and Peniche, which today remain the two major centres for the development and promotion of this art, intent on keeping alive a tradition that, in Portugal, dates back at least to the 17th century. Bobbin lace from Vila do Conde was shown at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1867 and is now a certified activity. 114-115
It is notable precisely because of the use of the bobbin, a wooden artefact in the form of an elongated pear. The thread is wound around the bobbin, and paid out in a way that criss-crosses and intertwines the various threads [in movements in which the bobbins are passed from one hand to another] and this gives rise to the final work. The work is made on a characteristic cushion, on which the card with the design is placed and attached with strategically placed pins to guide the interweaving of the threads. Depending on its complexity, a piece and the lace can be made using 4 to 1500 bobbins. Intent on preserving a know-how that is under threat of being lost, the local authorities have created museums devoted to bobbin lace in both Vila do Conde and Peniche. There is also a school in both places that tries to interest young people in keeping the tradition alive. Bobbin lace is not only intended for clothing or home textiles. Jewellery and footwear, albeit to a lesser extent, have also tried to take advantage of this traditional knowledge. Fernando Barroso was one of the jewellers who joined the Vila do Conde Bobbin Lace Museum for the development and creation of unique pieces in gold and silver thread. In Peniche, the local authority has also established a protocol with the jewellery firm Ricardo & Ricardos to make works together with the lacemakers of the Peniche Bobbin School, a partnership that has resulted in a collection of 10 gems named ‘Ser Portugal’ (Being Portugal), with prices ranging from 550 euros to 20,000 euros, in which the threads in the lace are intertwined with gold and diamonds, and which have been exhibited in national and international fairs. The goal, of course, is to find new market niches that enable bobbin lace to be enhanced. And in shoes, the highlight is Rutz who has associated one of the noblest Portuguese natural products, cork, with bobbin lace and created a collection under the name ‘Sea Letters Collection’.
8 -10 Feb. 2015 ONLY PROFESSIONALS www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es
Coinciding with:
116-117
portugal
24 FASHIONABLE HOURS IN… LISBON The city is one of Europe’s trendiest capitals, amassing tourism awards and new spots which are really worth a visit. Welcome to stylish Lisbon. by Manuel Arnaut
Super stylish decor at Bica do Sapato restaurant
10 am
11 am
This is one of the city’s most elegant hotels, known for hosting Heads of State and international celebrities who visit Portugal. That’s why there’s nothing like starting your day with the terrific Brunch at the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon on Sunday, at the Varanda Restaurant, signed by the acclaimed executive chef Pascal Meynard. Go for the classical Eduardo VII or Continental menus or choose the low-calorie menu if you want to keep fit. Pancakes, waffles, eggs, dim sum, jiaozi, sushi, ceviche and even Mexican delicacies will power you up for a day of shopping and leisure. Price per adult: €39. www.fourseasons.com
This is the avenue where the best multibrand stores and the major international labels, such as Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton, are located. Visit the recent store of the acclaimed Portuguese footwear designer Luís Onofre who has dressed the feet of some of the world’s most elegant women. If Naomi Watts, Michelle Obama and Queen Letizia are fans, so will you be…
Brunch at the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon
Shopping along Avenida da Liberdade
Noon
Visit to MUDE The Design and Fashion Museum, Francisco Capelo’s Collection, has become a reference in Europe, and is a prime destination for lovers of good design. Its collection includes 672 pieces of equipment design and 690 matching fashion sets dating from 1937 to the late 20th century, including incontrovertible cultural personalities, such as Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Courrèges, Gio Ponti and Le Corbusier. www. mude.pt
1 pm
Lunch at Bica do Sapato Just opposite the River Tagus and full of design objects, this is one of Lisbon’s most sophisticated restaurants, where the city’s beautiful people get together. In addition to the delicious cocktails, you will find traditional dishes on the menu, such as roast shoulder of lamb with chorizo rice and baked cod brandade, as well as international delicacies, such as sushi. Also an excellent choice for dinner. www.bicadosapato.com
3 pm
Afternoon shopping at Príncipe Real This has become one of the city’s trendiest neighbourhoods, brimming with small shops where you’ll find unique treasures, from antiques to fashion. In this area of Lisbon, there are points of sale for various Portuguese designers, such as Alexandra Moura, Nuno Gama and Lidija Kolovrat.
5 pm
Popping over to Chiado
The charming Luvaria Ulisses, in Chiado
While you’re in Príncipe Real, don’t miss its neighbouring quarter, Chiado. It’s one of Lisbon’s prime areas, where the São Carlos National Theatre is also located, a reference for opera buffs. Here you’ll find some of the major international fashion labels, such as Hugo Boss and Hermès, and charming small shops such as Luvaria Ulisses, founded in 1925, overflowing with thousands of leather gloves of all kinds and in all colours. www.luvariaulisses.com
6.30pm
Cocktail at the Bairro Alto Hotel terrace After such an eventful day, you deserve a glass of wine with a panoramic view over the city, at the Bairro Alto Hotel terrace. Beware though: your day around Lisbon has not yet come to an end... www.bairroaltohotel.com 118-119
9pm
11pm
On the site of one of the most important Portuguese manufacturing complexes is now the LX Factory, a cool area where you can feel the creative energy buzzing around you and where model agencies, concept stores, offices of young architects and street artists gather under the same roof. And a number of restaurants! Hamburguers, Japanese, Italian, Portuguese food and even the Belgian “moules” promise a world tour of flavours in a modern, relaxed atmosphere. www.lxfactory.com
It used to be a place for prostitution, in a problem(ic) area. Today, Pensão Amor, in Cais do Sodré, is one the most popular night spots in Lisbon. Besides the dance floor and an ambiance reminiscent of a chaotic boudoir, the place also provides a fortune-teller, an erotic bookshop and a sex shop. www.pensaoamor.pt
Dinner at LX Factory
Fall in love (or don’t) in Pensão Amor (Love Guest House)
Pensão Amor
12 pm
Luxury night Lisbon has a new hotel gem, right at its heart. Hotel Valverde, in Avenida da Liberdade, puts one in mind of a London townhouse and promises a comfortable night, with sophisticated rooms and vintage-inspired furniture and works of art. It was designed in the minutest detail, from the unexpected wallpaper to the unique atmosphere of each of its 25 rooms. One of its highlights is perhaps the inner courtyard restaurant, with its exuberant trees and shrubs, ideal to enjoy a cocktail or taste the Afternoon Tea. Sweet dreams! www.valverdehotel.com
A PORTUGUESE GOLDEN CAGE RUBEN ALVES
The Portuguese are Portuguese wherever they happen to be in the world. Being Portuguese is part of an unparalleled set of traditions and twists and turns. Anywhere in the world, being Portuguese sets you apart. There’s perhaps no other people as distinctive as ours and we make a point of sharing our culture. We are proud of who we are, of our achievements and customs. Zé Povinho by Bordalo Pinheiro is just a metaphor for the grandeur of a people who have never simply stood by and watched but rather ventured out into new conquests. We take pride in what is ours and even more so in what is ours beyond our borders. The Portuguese around the world are a reality today and were so throughout the 20th century. There are millions of Portuguese living abroad who leave an imprint of the Portuguese soul wherever they go, keeping our traditions alive. 120-121
This serves as an introduction to one of the hottest movies in 2013, the Golden Cage. Directed by Ruben Alves, himself a Portuguese emigrant, the film renders a perfect depiction of the reality of a family of emigrants in France. It’s a faithful portrait of people who set out for a different life but carried the Portuguese soul in their luggage. A realistic depiction of life abroad, with all its hardships, joys and stories. A narrative that reflects what battles have been fought for those who leave their country, whether because they must bring up their children in a dual culture or because of new jobs or learning new traditions. We travelled to Paris to visit young director Ruben Alves’ second home. Our chat begins in one of the most striking places of his childhood: the Champs-Élysées.
You spent part of your childhood in the ChampsÉlysées, but was it also here that your began to harbour the dream of becoming a film director? Yes. This cinema is my childhood cinema where I’d come to watch movies as a boy. My earliest film emotions happened here in this avenue, in this very cinema. Indeed, the première of The Golden Cage took place here. And it was thrilling. Was it intentional? No, funnily enough, it just happened that way... Well, maybe there was a bit of pressure to show it here. But it was very thrilling. I saw myself as a boy sitting here watching movies. And now here I was showing my own film... How did the idea of touching on the subject of the emigrants come about? I wanted to pay tribute to my parents for what they have done and their struggle over the years. It’s the story of the life of many Portuguese both here in France and in other countries. How has the Portuguese community in France responded? It was good because they could identify with the film. Even if they haven’t been through those specific hardships, the feelings, the details, are the same. It was a very different reaction. The French distributors would often say to me: “Your film is incredible. Some people have never set foot in a movie house, but they came to see The Golden Cage.” What was your reaction when you realised how the Portuguese received the film? You were recognised in Portugal at last... I didn’t make the film to be recognised. But it was great to realise that the Portuguese appreciated my work.
The Golden Cage is not being shown only in Portugal and France... where else can we see the movie? The Golden Cage has in fact toured the world. I’m leaving for South Africa soon, which I’ve never visited, and Canada. The movie is still being shown in Spain, but it really has travelled the world. You’ve made it to the cinemas in Portugal; what are your next projects? I have some projects for Portugal but it’s too soon to disclose them. I always have one foot here and one foot there. But my heart is in Portugal. Right now I’m writing my script. Who is Ruben Alves? I’m not sure... I’m a nice guy and get along fine with everybody. I’m very inquisitive: about life, about human beings. I think that’s what defines me best. I always try to discover and learn more about human beings. Where do you see yourself in 10 years’ time? I’d like to be the same person in 10 years’ time. I want to be what I am now: putting my heart in everything I do and not following a path just for money or glory, that doesn’t appeal to me. To be the same in 10 years’ time and putting my heart in everything I do... that’s what I want.
people
PORTUGUESE PEOPLE by Patrícia Gonçalves
Carlos do Carmo FADO SINGER Carlos do Carmo was the first Portuguese to be given the Lifetime Achievement Award for Musical Excellence - a unique distinction that celebrates an artist’s career. The 75-year old fado singer received the Latin Grammy Lifetime Achievement, considered to be the most important and prestigious award in the music industry, and was described by the academy as “one of the greatest fado singers of his time and one of the most iconic voices in Portuguese music”. In 2014, he completed 50 years in a career made famous by songs like “Os Putos”, “Um Homem na Cidade”, “Canoas do Tejo”, “O Cacilheiro”, “Lisboa Menina e Moça”, “Duas Lágrimas de Orvalho” and “Bairro Alto”.
122-123
ARE SUCCESSFUL ACROSS THE WORLD Dur達o Barroso Sara Moreira
Lino Pires
POLITICIAN
ATHLETE
BENEFACTOR
Dur達o Barroso, politician and Portuguese teacher, between 2004 and 2014, was president of the European Commission, one of the most prestigious and important positions worldwide.
Sara Moreira, born in Santo Tirso, is a Portuguese athlete specialised in long distance athletic events who, after her success in the 3,000, 5,000 and 10,000 metres, made her brilliant debut in marathon running, coming third in New York, one of the six most prestigious marathons in the world, together with London, Tokyo, Boston, Berlin and Chicago.
Lino Pires was the first Portuguese to receive the Medal of the British Empire from the hands of Queen Elizabeth II of England for services rendered to the community.
His performance was not a consensual one but, on his return to Portugal, he was awarded by the President of the Portuguese Republic, Cavaco Silva, with the Grand Cordon of the Order of Henry the Navigator, a distinction reserved for foreign Heads of State and personalities who have accomplished extraordinary and especially important achievements on behalf of Portugal. Before accepting the Presidency of the European Commission, Dur達o Barroso had been elected the 160th Prime Minister of Portugal, a position he relinquished to take on his European role.
Although not unheard-of, it is rare for a white athlete to claim a place on the podium the first time they take part in a marathon of this calibre. Before this, Sara Moreira, 29, won the 3,000-metre race at the Indoor Athletics Championships in Gothenburg, Sweden, in 2013.
The owner of a famous restaurant, he was decorated for his work on behalf of the local people, which began 40 years ago, i.e. soon after he bought a pub, at 2 in the morning, close to the Silverstone race circuit, which quickly became a restaurant for celebrities. The deal brought him wealth, but he made a point in giving much of his money back to the community, namely to the church, schools, sports clubs and the Royal Marsden Hospital which has already received more than 300,000 euros from the 81-year old Portuguese man.
124:125
The choice varies according to the starter, the main course and the dessert. Or else, simply according to taste. We are talking about wine... and Portuguese wines are in fashion!
The Lello Bookshop building is already a mandatory reference in any tourist guide about Porto. Founded in 1906, it was recently considered one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world by The Guardian newspaper. Its opening day was attended by some of the great names of Portuguese literature, such as Guerra Junqueiro, Abel Botelho and Aurélio da Paz dos Reis. Located right in the city centre, its Art Nouveau façade, completed with neo-Gothic detail, is outstanding. The interior, in painted plaster imitating wood, is dominated by the imposing red staircase, contrasting with the large ceiling stained glass. This is a space that links the past to the future, where visitors can lose themselves among the thousands of books lining in its shelves. The Lello Bookshop was listed as a Monument of Public Interest in 2013, and is a mandatory stop for visitors to Porto. A unique gem, which provides a real encounter with the grandeur of architecture, Portuguese history and the magic of literature.
photo António Alfarroba
LIVRARIA LELLO
ZAPPING
portugal
by Susana Ribeiro
MINERVA
The best mackerel fillets are Portuguese Several preserves from the Portuguese company A Poveira have won international acclaim. Most recently, the mackerel fillets in spicy olive oil with pickles, from the Minerva brand, have been rewarded twice. They received two gold stars at the International Taste & Quality Institute in Brussels. This contest is a worldwide reference in the evaluation and promotion of foods and beverages, with a seal of quality awarded by opinion leaders, chefs and sommeliers with Michelin stars. The Minerva mackerel fillets underwent a blind tasting by a panel from several countries, who evaluated the aroma, texture, flavour and aftertaste, as well as their visual aspect. Minerva preserves are one of the trademarks from A Poveira factory, that exports to the whole world. They are produced in Póvoa de Varzim with fresh fish caught off the Portuguese coast and through traditional methods used by the canning industry.
ALENTEJO
Best wine region in the world to visit Alentejo was voted the best wine region in the world to visit, in a voting sponsored by the newspaper USA Today on its 10Best.com website and in its travel section. The newspaper refers to this Portuguese region “as a journey into time for wine lovers”. Experts from the wine industry short-listed 20 candidates and highlighted Alentejo for various reasons: diversity of the land, with olive groves and vineyards, but also for the “picturesque villages” and “flower-filled meadows and forests”. Indeed, this was not the only international reference to Alentejo’s wine scene. Wine&Spirits Magazine also placed the Herdade do Esporão Winery in the Top 100 best wineries of 2014. This publication is one of the most influential in the wine industry world.
126-127
PORTUGAL
With 16 tourism awards At the European Gala for the World Travel Awards in August 2014, Portugal stood out, receiving 16 awards, dubbed the “Oscars” of Tourism. Besides awards for hotels, resorts and destinations, Turismo de Portugal also won the category of best official body in European tourism. This annual event distinguishes various sectors of the tourism industry and, in this last European voting, awarded prizes to Portuguese hotels and resorts: Best Boutique Hotel in Europe: Vila Joya; Best Hotel Residences in Europe: Pine Cliffs Residences; Best Villa Resort in Europe: Martinhal Beach & Resort Hotel; Best Luxury Resort in Europe: Conrad Algarve; Most Romantic Resort in Europe: Vila Vita Parc. Amonsgt the award-winning hotels were: Pestana Porto Santo Beach Resort & Spa, as Best European Resort with Everything included; Choupana Hills Resort & Spa, as Best Boutique Resort in Europe; The Vine Hotel, in Madeira, as Best Design Hotel in Europe; and the Bairro Alto Hotel, in Lisbon, as Best Historic Heritage Hotel. The 16 Portuguese award winners also include TAP (best airline to South America and Africa); Best Cruise Destination and Port Award: Lisbon; Best European Island Destination: Madeira; and DouroAzul as Best River Cruise Company.
VIDAGO PALACE HOTEL
The ideal place to get married is a royal palace in Portugal The Vidago Palace Hotel was built at the beginning of the 20th century as the residence of kings and queens, and was considered as the most prestigious venue for weddings from among many other international places. In London, the Prestigious Star Awards distinguished the most prestigious spaces in the world considered ideal for hosting memorable events. The elegant and romantic five-star Palace Hotel Vidago, together with its natural and thermal environment (with many green spaces, gardens and woodlands) was considered the perfect venue for weddings. This Portuguese palace was awarded first place in the category “Most Prestigious Wedding Venue”. Also running for the award was the idyllic Necker Island, an island in the Pacific Ocean owned by Richard Branson, the boss of Virgin.
portugal
PORTUGUESE CUISINE PASTÉIS DE TENTÚGAL The Tentúgal pastries are a convent sweet typical of Beira Litoral, originating in the town of Tentúgal. They are said to have been created by the Carmelite nuns of the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Natividade, in Montemor-o-Velho, more than four centuries ago. Due to their extreme sweetness, they were initially used as a medicine for people with nutritional deficiencies. Tentúgal pastries are famous for the traditional way in which their dough is made - extremely thin - making them unique in the world. The dough is repeatedly rolled out until it is thinner than a sheet of vegetable paper almost on the verge of tearing. The secret is said to lie with the flour, which must be of good quality, and the spot where the dough is rolled out. They are filled with “ovos moles” (literally soft eggs). These pastries were one of the 21 nominees for the 7 wonders of Portuguese gastronomy in 2011. The original recipe is kept under lock and key and never disclosed, but the recipe below is the closest to it, bearing in mind that the preparation of these pastries is very hard. by Susana Ribeiro
Recipe for Pastéis de Tentúgal For the dough: - 500g flour - 200ml water - 2 tablespoons butter - Salt
For the filling: - 250g sugar - 12 egg yolks - Cinnamon as needed
Preparation Sieve the flour and place the melted butter in the middle. Add the salt to the water and warm it up, adding to the flour and kneading the dough until it comes loose from your hands. Make a ball, sprinkled with flour all around, cover it with a warm bowl and leave it to rest for 30 minutes. Roll out the dough on a cloth, brush with melted butter in a bain-marie and roll out with the rolling pin until it becomes thin. Cut the dough in oblongs (14cm x 10cm) and overlap 4 sheets, brushing them with the melted butter and filling them with the egg filling (2 tablespoons of filling for each pastry). Roll the pastry tips up. Bake them in the oven for 15 minutes at 200ºC. Finally, sprinkle them with icing sugar. 128
gds-online.com
The Global DesTinaTion For shoes & accessories DÜsselDorF 4–6 Feb 2015 29–31 JUl 2015
supported by: