Summerlife 2016 | Issue 46 | 英語版 | English Language Version

summer

FREE INTRODUCING NISEKO IN THE OFF-SEASON

VOLUME 9 | 2016

Tap links & logos to visit websites

Contents Design Elevated

22

30

28

40

16

50

sprouts

56

24 Play | Cycling & MTB

16 Play | Action

28 Eat + Drink | A-Bu-Cha

20 Play | River Activities 22 Play | Golf

cover photo print run

Paul Malandain

10,000 + online

+ iPad + Amazon Kindle Fire estimated readership translation

40 Photography: Four-Seasons Imagery

26 Eat | Prativo

18 Play | Sightseeing

50,000+

Yuri Pangier

50 Adventure: Mt Yotei Sunrise

66 Architecture: Hirafu’s Chalet Kazane

36 Stay | Glasshouse

Kristian Lund

image/associate editor

72 Business Directory

60 Challenge: NAC Trail Run

34 Stay | The Orchards

Aaron Jamieson

design

Paul Malandain

design consultant

Ski-in, Ski-out

Skye Niseko is an exquisite ski-in / ski-out condominium-hotel in the Hirafu Upper Village.

Apartments and penthouses

A stunning collection of 96 beautifully appointed, uniquely situated apartments and penthouses will form the very first condominium-hotel situated wholly within the breathtaking Hokkaido national park. The site offers protected piste and mountain views in all directions, as well as direct access to the slopes.

resort guide

56 Travel: Tour du Nord Cycle Tour

30 Eat + Stay | Moku no Sho

managing editor

66

deep summer

12 Summer Fresh 14 Events

60

Jacinta Sonja

contributors

photography

advertising inquiries

Emma Lee, Jared Pangier,

Glen Claydon, Darren Teasdale

info@powderlife.com

Glen Claydon, John Barton

Paul Malandain, Makiko Itoh

©2015 Niseko Media KK

www.skyeniseko.com

For enquiries visit the Skye Niseko office 3/F Hirafu 188 Phone +81 136 220 221

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editor’s note

Image: Darren Teasdale, Niseko Photography

Editor’s

Note

One of the most common questions visitors who come here to ski in winter ask me is: what’s it like here in summer?

Within days of spring breaking, tiny plants emerge along the roadsides. After hibernating beneath metres of snow for three months they waste no time and seize their chance. Over the coming days and weeks they will shoot upwards and outwards faster than the snow can disappear. The stark white landscape of winter will rapidly be replaced with a dense, lush green.

The melting snow permeates the volcanic earth and life is everywhere.

Vegetation is thick from the undergrowth to the tree tops. A richer green is hard to imagine, exuding an intoxicating energy. People are drawn outside to take in the environment, breathe the sweet air

There’s a short answer, and a long answer to that question. The

and enjoy the great outdoors. Niseko’s natural assets – its rivers,

short answer is – awesome. In many ways it’s “cooler” than winter!

mountains, forests and lakes – offer countless opportunities for

The long answer is that at 42 degrees north of the equator, it’s

leisure and exercise. Hokkaido is truly a summer paradise.

a hidden oasis in Asia – a place where there’s no rainy season;

Niseko is made up largely of people who weren’t born here – of

where the average temperature in the hottest months is 25C (77F);

people who moved here from other parts of Japan and the world.

where most of the food you eat is fresh from local farms; where you

There’s a saying around these parts that many people came for the

can collect pure mountain-filtered drinking water from local springs;

winter, but stayed for the summer.

where there’s no crime and no such thing as a traffic jam.

Niseko is spectacularly beautiful in summer. After months of

If you’re here for a ski holiday, I hope that after reading edition of Summerlife you’ll come back to experience the summer too.

relentless snow, sun finally dominates. The air is crisp and clean and the natural warmth of the sun’s rays on your skin never felt so good.

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- Kristian Lund

:SL

#powderlife

sprouts |

news

Summer TEXT KRISTIAN LUND

Fresh

Tag your Niseko photos #powderlife or @powderlife_com and we’ll feature the best on our account

Spring, Summer, Autumn Weather

What’s Up? SUP Boarding’s Up!

We always start Powderlife with a story about winter weather, so let’s start Summerlife with a story about the climate for the rest of the year!

Stand-up paddle boarding – or SUP boarding – is the latest summer activity to hit Niseko’s lakes and rivers. Rafting and other watersports have long been at the core of Niseko’s summer outdoor activites offerings, but SUP boarding is an exciting new surfing-inspired method to enjoy the peace and tranquility of local waterways.

In spring, for the first time in four months or more, you can feel the sun’s rays warm your skin. Break out the short sleeve T-shirts in the daytime, but keep a jacket on hand – a bit of cloud can cool things down quickly.

Originating in the Hawaiian islands, SUP boards are super thick, wide surfboards making them really stable. This means anyone with at least a bit of balance and coordination can feel like a true surfer for a day and experience Niseko from a totally unique perspective.

The official average maximum temperature in the hottest months – July and August – is 24-25C ( 75-77F). It gets up to 30 degrees sometimes but without persistent humidity. It’s like the air-conditioning’s set to mild!

Which brings us to autumn. Everyone has their favourite month and mine is autumn. It’s time to pull out your favourite winter clothes, enjoy the incredible change in the colour of the leaves, and watch the mountain peaks for the first signs of snow. Time also to get excited about winter!

Book with SUP Niseko from ¥5400 at guide.co.jp or call 0136-54-2820.

Image: SUP Niseko

Sansai Satisfying for the Soul

There are few things more satisfying than eating produce straight from the source. One unique local opportunity to do so is sansai. Literally translated as mountain vegetables, sansai grows everywhere in Niseko in spring and early summer. Someone who knows what they’re looking for needn’t walk far out their back door to pluck a few fronds, stems, buds or roots that they can turn into a delicious snack or light meal.

Depending on the plant, they’re usually fried in tempura, simmered in stock, marinated in soy sauce or pickled in vinegar, but a creative chef can transform a few plants into a unique Hokkaido delicacy. Ask at restaurants or even better, get some local advice and harvest your own!

Image: Darren Teasdale, Niseko Photography

CowParade Brings Even More Colour

Image: Makiko Itoh

Niseko residents are a creative bunch. The picturesque landscape and changing seasons provide endless inspiration, and attract artists from all over Japan and increasingly all over the world.

Pure Fun on Japan’s Longest Zipline Tour

So when the local tourism board signed up to host a “CowParade” event last season, dozens of the area’s most talented artists pulled out their brushes and created some incredibly creative beasts. One was even coated in wool to look like a giant sheep! Check it and all the others out at cowparadeniseko.com.

Niseko is now home to the longest zipline tour in Japan! The Pure adventure park alongside the Hilton at Niseko Village is getting bigger and better every year, with tree-trekking, inflatable slides and jumps and plenty more to keep families entertained for hours.

The Pure Zipline Tour covers a distance of 1.4km via 10 expanses of zipline, crossing open fields, hurtling through forests and skimming over sections of ponds and lakes up to 20m in the air. Some sections include fun elements, such as trying to toss a ball into a basket mid-zip, while others have you ziplining in parallel pairs in a race to the end.

CowParade is the world’s largest public art event. Since it began in Chicago in 1999 there have been more than 75 events across the globe.

The fibreglass cows provide artists with subtle, yet interesting angles and curves to create unique works of art. The cows were auctioned off after the event raising ¥3.2 million for charity. Most of them are still in the area so keep your eye out and marvel at the local creativity.

Contact Explore-Niseko.com for more on Pure and other family fun.

Image: Darren Teasdale, Niseko Photography

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#powderlife

#powderlife

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sprouts |

events

What’s On

Summer

This Summer

2016

SWIM-RIDE-RUN JULY BOARDMAN NISEKO CLASSIC 70km and 140km cycle races through rice paddies and potato fields out to the Sea of Japan and back to the mountains of Niseko.

JULY NAC BIG SWIM IN TOYA This is Hokkaido’s only open-water swim race held in the crystal clear waters of Lake Toya, about 30 minutes drive from Niseko

Kutchan Potato Festival. Image: Darren Teasdale, Niseko Photography

SUMMER FESTIVALS JULY KYOGOKU COLD WATER FESTIVAL Celebrate the region’s abundance of spring water at the Kyogoku spring with this uniquely Japanese mountain festival.

JULY MAKKARI PORK FESTIVAL That's right, a pork festival! Head to neighbouring town Makkari where their herb-fed pigs are so delicious it's worth celebrating.

Image: Darren Teasdale, Niseko Photography

JULY-AUG SAPPORO BEER FESTIVAL Head for Odori Park (home of the famous Sapporo Snow Festival), buy a beer tower and celebrate summer like they do in Sapporo.

AUGUST HANAZONO HILL CLIMB A short, sharp 15km race from Kutchan to the top of Mt Goshiki, climbing 617 vertical metres at an average grade of 4.6 per cent.

AUGUST KUTCHAN POTATO FESTIVAL The "Jaga Matsuri" is the summer headline act for this little potato farming region. Parades, parties, food, fireworks, games and more.

SEPT ANNUAL NAC TRAIL RUN Take on mighty Mt Annupuri in summer without the chairlifts in this 5km, 10km or 30km up-down-cross-country race (see article p60).

AUGUST THE HIRAFU MATSURI Don a yukata (summer kimono) and get festive! This is a relatively new festival that brings Hirafu alive in summer. Food fireworks, and fun!

SEPT NISEKO MARATHON FESTIVAL A fun-run event for families and budding long-distance runners that has been going for more than 30 years.

AUGUST FIREWORK & STAR FESTIVAL The “Niseko Tanabata no Yuube” is a fun family festival celebrating the cool summer evenings in Niseko Town.

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#powderlife

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5

play / action

Super Fun Niseko Summer Activities

Niseko is tailor-made for outdoor fun in the sun – volcanic mountains to hike and ride, cliffs to climb, high peaks to conquer and even jump off. Book ahead or just turn up, relax and choose your own brand of adventure.

01.Canyoning

Jump, slide, tramp and swim down a network of canyons, creeks and rock pools deep in the mountain wilderness around Niseko.

This is Hanazono’s most adrenaline-fuelled, physically challenging adventure activity.

Start with a slow river section followed by slightly more turbulent waters, finishing off with a 6m cliff jump into a deep blue pool.

6600JPY for 3.5 hours. Ages 13 and above..

02. Adventure Parks

03. Summer Tubing

Hanazono Adventure Park 3500JPY for 3 hours.

25,000JPY per 60 minutes per person.

Both Hanazono and Niseko Village have adventure play areas at the base of the ski slopes, each featuring a range of inflatable slides and other challenging activities. For little ones, jumping castles and slides will keep them entertained for hours, while for big kids try slack lining (pictured above), ziplines and tree-trekking courses.

Based at the Hanazono Adventure Park summer tubing is one of my young family’s favourite activities. Both big and little kids will love jumping inside the tyre tube and sliding down a series of winding chutes built above the area that is the beginners’ slopes in winter. Jump on the magic carpet escalator back up to the top and do it all again.

Pure Niseko Village Adults 4200JPY / Kids 3200JPY.

Explore Niseko can book all these activities and plenty more. Go to Explore-Niseko.com, drop into their booking office next to Seicomart, or call +81 (0)136 55 8848 to book now.

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04. Paragliding

05. Lake Toya SUP Boarding

From 11,500JPY for a tandem flight.

From 8640JPY/person or Monster SUP from 7400JPY/ person. Bookings: SUP Niseko guide.co.jp or 0136-54-2820.

For adrenaline junkies, paragliding is an activity that soars above the rest. Launch off the peaks of Mt Annupuri or Rusutsu and enjoy a gentle glide and a soaring bird’s eye view of the lush, colourful Hokkaido countryside below. Fly above the uncovered ski slopes with views to the ocean, and even over Mt Yotei’s crater when conditions and thermals are right.

SUP boarding on nearby Lake Toya takes this new activity to another level. Not only are the smooth waters ideal for beginners and youngsters, but the underwater features viewed through crystal clear blue waters are stunning from a standing vantage point. Paddling out to islands in the middle is a rewarding challenge.

#powderlife

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5

play / sightseeing

Places To Visit Within 60 Minutes of Niseko

With Niseko as your base, southwest Hokkaido is your oyster.

Within an hour or two’s drive there are enough day or overnight trips to keep you occupied for a dozen summer holidays. Hire a car or join a tour and experience this undiscovered wonder of the world that is unveiled after winter.

Want to hire a car or find out more on things to do and places to see in and around Niseko? Go to Explore-Niseko.com, drop into their booking office next to Seicomart, or call +81(0)136 55 8848.

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01. Shakotan Peninsula

Shakotan is a compact, rugged peninsula that juts out into the Sea of Japan to Niseko’s west. Drive along the coastline and admire some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Japan. Venture out along the spine of Cape Kamui (pictured right). Jump in a glass-bottom boat and marvel at the clarity of the Sea of Japan or kayak along the coastline and explore caves in the cliffsides.

02. Otaru Port

Image: Niseko Photography

03. Lake Toya

Otaru is a small, historic port city about an hour’s drive over a mountain range and back down to the ocean. Explore and shop around the beautifully preserved canal district by rickshaw or boat, and admire the old stone warehouses and other Japanese architecture including mansions built by early herring tycoons. Eat fantastically fresh sushi straight from the port in a converted old warehouse.

Lake Toya is a stunningly beautiful volcanic caldera lake just 45 minutes’ drive from Niseko, famous for the onsen resort town on its southern shoreline and the luxury Windsor Hotel perched on the rim of the caldera above. Swim in the crystal clear waters, cruise in powered or non-powered water craft out to the deer-inhabited island in the middle, or visit the active Mt Usu volcano.

04. Yoichi

05. Rusutsu Resort Amusement Park

Yoichi is another seaside village near Niseko, most famous for its orchards, apple juice and Nikka Whiskey distillery, whose 1987 single malt was voted world’s best in 2008. Visit the Space Apple Museum built in honour of Japan’s first astronaut who was born there. Witness the Fugoppe Cave paintings, believed to be the first signs of prehistoric life in Hokkaido or visit the OcciGabbi Winery.

Just a leisurely 30-minute drive through Niseko Town and the flower fields of Makkari is Rusutsu – an amazing powder resort in winter and Hokkaido’s biggest amusement park resort in summer. It boasts more than 60 attractions including eight roller coasters, and often hosts events like 1200-burst fireworks displays and cartoon character shows.

One-day pass – Adults 4950JPY / Kids 3950JPY.

#powderlife

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play / river activities

Paddle

Power

TEXT KRISTIAN LUND

Niseko’s flow starts in the mountains and ends in the ocean, but not before carving its way through the local landscape via crystal clear rivers and streams.

There are many different ways to immerse yourself in the rivers’ action so grab a paddle and get out there!

Images | Top Right: Glen Claydon Top left and bottom: Hanazono

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Water – what a magnificent substance.

Frozen to a powdery consistency to ski through in winter, and melted to create pristine waterways to enjoy in summer.

Niseko’s rivers are at their spectacular best in spring when the sun’s warmth burns right through the snow pack to create massive amounts of runoff. A snow layer of up to 4m thick covers the whole region, adding up to a countryside-load of melt whipping up gradethree and sometimes grade four rapids.

Not surprisingly, the water is literally icy cold.

But don’t worry, before you set off you will be suited up in a dry suit with tight rubber seals around your ankles, wrists and neck. You can even jump in the water and not feel too cold.

After the spring runoff has subsided, the river calms down (see above), and the focus is more on relaxing and enjoying the summer scenery. The water even warms up enough to jump in and enjoy a refreshing dip.

There are plenty of different watercraft to suit all party so grab a paddle and join in! :SL

Watercraft | RAFT With an experienced guide navigating each raft, this is the most family-friendly way to travel the rivers. The spring course is about 12km while summer is about 7km. Ages 3+.

Watercraft | DUCKY “Ducky” rafts, with their pointy duck-like tails, are a two-person inflatable kayak in which you are the captain of your destiny. Watch out for those rocks! Ages 13+.

Watercraft | KAYAK Choose from a single or double kayak and allow a local guide to lead you down a calm and serene part of the river, or cruise around a small lake at Hanazono. Ages 7+.

Watercraft | SUP BOARD SUP boards are wide and stable and easier than you might imagine to master. These big boards glide smoothly through the water so you’ll feel like a true soul surfer. Ages 6+.

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sprouts |

play / golf

Hilton Niseko Village’s sister course, the Niseko Golf Course

Glorious

Golfing TEXT JOHN BARTON

Golf in Japan – crowded and expensive? Not if you’re lucky enough to have discovered Niseko. In fact, up here it’s very much the opposite.

John Barton is the Director of Vacation Niseko and a former golf teaching pro who has been living in Niseko for eight years. Get in touch with John to help you plan your Niseko golf holiday.

Email info@nisekomanagement.com

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Hokkaido is home to a staggering 172 golf courses – a third as many as Scotland, the home of golf – nine of which are within easy access of Niseko.

Every course feels like it’s secluded deep in the Hokkaido wilderness, with rolling green hills and picturesque mountain peaks at every turn. Courses are well-maintained and interesting with some famous designers making their marks here too. Take it all in at the laid-back pace Hokkaido is renowned for and you have one of the best golfing setups in Asia, if not the world.

One thing visiting golfers always marvel at is how good the golfing experience is here – in addition to the courses themselves you have friendly locals and course staff, an onsen (hot spring bath) after the round and great food and drink in the evening. It is hard to beat a day of golf here.

The only thing left to tell you is: if you plan to invest in Niseko, you’ll need to invest in a good set of golf clubs as well. :SL

Niseko Hanazono Golf Course | Par 72 (Championship: 7003 Blue: 6760 Regular: 6343 Forward: 5278)

This course offers four tees for different abilities and a real test from the championship tees. It has some beautiful holes that please the eye and challenge the mind.

Niseko Village Golf Course | Par 73 (Blue: 6845 White: 6422 Red: 5313)

Located at the Hilton Niseko Village, between Mt Yotei and Mt Annupuri, this is a scenic, wide and somewhat forgiving course with a signature 721-yard par-6 hole!

Niseko Golf Course | Par 72 (Black:6805 Blue:6306 White:5833 Red:5072)

This Arnold Palmer-designed course is a local favourite with incredible views and gradient changes to test your club selection. Great risk/reward par 5s and stunning par 3s.

#powderlife

sprouts |

play / biking

Images: Left and above Glen Claydon | Top right: Paul Malandain

Cycling

&MTB TEXT KRISTIAN LUND

Summer in Niseko is tailor-made for exploring the countryside on two wheels. Whether you want to mountain-bike offroad, cruise on road, race competitively or go for a long-distance tour, there’s a saddle to suit everyone.

For more information on races email Hokkaido Events on info@hokkaidoevents.com.

For more information on mountain biking email Rhythm Cycles on info@nisekocycles.com.

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Niseko and its surrounds have some of the best road biking in Japan, and the competitive and leisure cycling scene is growing rapidly.

The roads are wide and beautifully maintained, traffic is sparse and mellow, the temperature is mild, and the air quality is outstanding. Put it altogether and you’ve got one of the best recipes for high-calibre road biking in Asia.

Several high-profile annual races are now staged in Niseko including the Hanazono Hillclimb (Aug 7) from Kutchan up over the mountain pass between Mt Annupuri and Mt Goshiki (pic top left). The Niseko Classic (Jul 10), a UCI Gran Fondo World Series event, heads into its third year with Boardman Bikes as new major sponsor. Niseko has also hosted stages of the Tour de Hokkaido and nearby Lake Toya has staged Ironman triathlons.

As a training destination, Niseko makes a great base for an array of day trips. The altitude isn’t overly high but the variety of courses will challenge up the hardiest of legs.

While summers and winters come and go, one thing that remains constant in Niseko is the mountains.

Coupled with amazing powder snow in winter, Mt Annupuri provides an extraordinary range of terrain for skiing. Fast forward to summer and you can understand why it makes such an exciting canvas for mountain biking.

Local and foreign riders have been busy for the past decade building an ever-expanding trail network. Cross-country trails cover the length and breadth of the mountain and there are several lift-accessed downhill courses.

Thanks to years of hard work and lobbying, several master-planned “flow trails” will be built from next year. Flow trails offer a smoother, safer, more predictable course, making the sport more accessible to beginner and intermediate riders – like me. I’m excited to try them myself, not least because it’s a major step towards Niseko becoming a serious mountain biking destination, further enhancing its fourseasons resort offerings. :SL

#powderlife

RENTALS SALES WORKSHOP GUIDING TOURS www.nisekocycles.com

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eat + drink / farm fresh

Restaurant

Prativo TEXT EMMA LEE

WHERE WHEN PHONE

HIGASHIYAMA (NISEKO VILLAGE) 11.30 TO 15.30 (LAST ORDER 14.30) +81 (0)136 55 8852

There are few things I love as much as a good buffet, and Prativo and its lunch-time smorgasbord ticks all the right boxes.

Choose a balmy summer afternoon and take your time enjoying the scenic drive out to this Higashiyama farmstead, which is also home to the deservedly famous Milk Kobo dairy. The luscious fields and grazing cows serve as a reminder that this is no contrived provincial façade, but rather an authentic dairy farm that survived the challenges of a national milk surplus to emerge as one of the region’s leading tourist attractions.

When faced with a milk glut some 15 years ago, farmer Mamoru Takahashi couldn’t bear to waste the produce the family farm generated and decided to use the surplus to make ice cream. The Takahashi cows graze on the fresh greens straight from the Niseko fields, drink only natural spring water and are lovingly hand milked. It’s little wonder that their yield produces dairy treats that are heaven on the tongue, and no surprise that Milk Kobo became a huge hit.

The Takahashi family saw an opportunity to introduce a special kind of restaurant in an area that offered little in the way of eating spots. Milk Kobo had shown the world the superior product that Niseko farms had to offer and they put the same principle to work in Prativo, a restaurant that serves dishes made almost entirely from Niseko’s natural bounty.

When I choose to love a restaurant, it’s always about more than the food. Prativo is pretty and airy, the staff are happy and helpful, and you never have to wait too long for the dishes on the buffet to be refilled. The tiered seating

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- 26 - volume 9 2016

is designed so that every table can enjoy uninterrupted views of Mount Yotei, which is almost flooring in its majesty.

If the views don’t floor you then three servings of the creamy potato gratin will certainly do the trick. Prativo offers a very reasonably priced lunch set, which includes a free run of their vegetarian buffet. The dishes are rich with the milky goodness that you would expect from such a farm-fresh locale, so be sure to pace yourself – you need room for dessert!

Dishes include quirky treats such as eggs poached in spring water with sesame cream sauce, roasted cabbage with mustard and cheese sauce, and soy beans in milk stew. Carnivores fear not – although the buffet is 100 per cent veggie, you can choose from four seasonal mains that always include a meat or fish option such as a juicy pork steak or a grilled salmon fillet.

Niseko Chomin Centre

Green Conference Facility

If you are planning a meeting, convention or event in Niseko, look no further than the Niseko Chomin Centre. The eco-friendly facility features a multi-purpose hall,

conference rooms, lecture rooms, and meeting rooms equipped with WIFI internet, HD data projectors and audio systems. The centre utilises solar power, LED lighting, and geothermal heating and cooling.

Move along to the dessert end of the buffet and load up a plate with fresh custard pudding, fluffy sponge cake and sweet mochi rice cakes in milk, all made by those dangerous doctors of delectableness next door at Milk Kobo. If you’ve got room – or if you’re like me and just can’t help yourself – finish up with a glass or three of Milk Kobo’s famous drinking yoghurt, which is sure to have you purring like a cat.

I had intended to visit Milk Kobo after lunch to indulge in a gooey choux cream, but I rolled out of Prativo in a blissful food coma and decided it was high time for a nap. To complete your own idyllic summer day out with a flourish, visit Prativo for lunch or dinner. Make sure you arrive hungry. :SL

・Modern and convenient location

・Catering services can be arranged Emma Lee is Niseko’s most prolific food writer. If there’s a restaurant she hasn’t tried, she’ll be trying it soon! Keep up to date with all her Niseko culinary adventures by signing up to the blog at nisekoalpineaccommodation.com.

#powderlife

・Tailor-made team building activities Phone +81 (0)136-44-2221 Email kankou@town.niseko.lg.jp

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eat + drink / izakaya

NISEKO - ST MORITZ NEW YOKOBAI HOUSE. COMPLETED.DECEMBER 2015 -C COME AND TAKE A LOOK! .

YOKOBAI 2 BEDROOM / 2 BATHROOM

Image: Glen Claydon

A-Bu-Cha

TEXT KRISTIAN LUND

WHERE WHEN

PHONE

UPPER HIRAFU VILLAGE 6PM TO 1AM (LAST ORDER 23.30) CLOSED MONDAYS IN SUMMER +81 (0)136 22 5620

Whenever I’ve been away from Niseko for a while, one of the first things I want to do upon returning is head back to A-Bu-Cha for a great izakaya feed and their familiar brand of warm Japanese hospitality.

After a couple of jokki mugs of Japanese draught beer off the tap and several of my favourite dishes – like their Japanese-style chicken caesar salad, or ika (squid) tempura – I feel like I’m back at home again.

Apart from short breaks at the end of summer and winter, you can rely on this Hirafu stalwart to be open almost any time of the year, and for the food and service to be exactly the same impeccable standard every time. Not only that, but you know you’ll always be greeted with a boisterous “irasshaimase” welcome and happy, friendly staff who will go out of their way to make you feel at home.

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For those new to Japanese dining I should explain izakaya are generally loud, rustic little restaurants where a table usually orders a variety of tapas-style dishes to share between everybody, washed down with drinks of your choice. It’s a casual affair and no one will bat an eyelid if your party ends up becoming a little loud and jovial as the night wears on.

One of my favourite things about A-BuCha in summer is seeing what’s on the blackboard – the seasonal dishes that vary on the day according to the freshest produce or seafood they’ve been able to source.

The winter menu is the same throughout the season but in summer there is always a surprise in store.

Keep an eye out for summer-only dishes such as a Niseko tomato salad, featuring 10 different types of locally grown tomatoes, or a bagna càuda that’s never tasted so fresh and flavoursome. See you there! :SL

#powderlife

THE CABINS Hokkaido Tracks has teamed up with award-winning architecture and design firm KplusK Associates to create a unique collection of contemporary ski cabins. Inspired by the lifestyle of the modern alpine explorer and enriched with the character of local culture, The Cabins fuse minimalist Japanese design with ultramodern mountain style. Set amongst pristine forest at the foot of Mt Annupuri in the tranquil area of St Moritz, Hirafu Village, yet only minutes to the family pair lift. Prices start from as low as 42 million yen for a fully constructed, two bedroom, two bathroom contemporary cabin, representing extraordinary value and an excellent entry point into the thriving Niseko market.

REGISTER YOUR INTEREST Hokkaido Tracks Resort Properties Phone 0136 21 6960 Email sales@hokkaidotracks.com www.hokkaidotracks.com

KEMUSHI 2 BEDROOM / 2 BATHROOM

Architecture

Masterplanning

RIBA registered

Interiors

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eat + drink + stay

Moku

no Sho

TEXT & IMAGES AARON JAMIESON

WHERE WHEN PHONE

MOIWA 6PM - 9PM SAT/SUN ALL YEAR +81 (0)136 59 2323

Almost 130 million people live in Japan, where only 20 per cent of the landmass is habitable. About 70 per cent of the countryside is mountainous.

Japanese inns, each themed around its location. Moku no Sho has been stunningly refurbished, with highlights including an exotic lounge surrounding an open wood fire place, private teppanyaki bar and an exclusive whisky bar, catering for the most exquisite tastes from Japan and abroad.

Much of the country is extremely hot and humid, so cool mountain air and an onsen hotel offers a therapeutic respite for summerweary city folk. It’s not surprising then that escaping the cities to mountain retreats has long been a favourite Japanese pastime.

After setting foot inside the hotel lobby, the traditional greeting seems almost surreal. As you remove your shoes you are courteously ushered to a lounge area where you’re introduced to your host who will look after your every need throughout your stay.

There are plenty of such retreats in and around Niseko, but Moku no Sho at Moiwa is the standout. Its setting in a valley alongside a natural waterfall sets the tone for what is a truly unique accommodation experience.

The dining experience at Moku no Sho is second to none, with freshly caught seafood brought directly to the hotel from nearby ports.

Enjoy a premium dinner in a secluded private room, or share a meal with a group and be waited on by specially trained staff.

The original hotel was recently acquired by large Japanese company Tsuruga Group, which specialises in boutique ryokan-style

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Images: Aaron Jamieson

The hotel is adorned with rare and beautiful artworks, many deriving from indigenous Ainu paintings and tapestries. Moku no Sho is almost a hotel-art gallery and hosts a treasure trove of artwork throughout. These include modern folding screens in the lobby, oriental lamps decorating the lounge, wood carvings from master craftsmen Masamitsu Takiguchi of Akan, and Ainu art known as inaw.

The warmth of the contrasting local timbers, stone and the beautiful design of the hot spring baths in the rooms will exceed your expectations and leave you with a feeling of complete indulgence.

The invigoration of a traditional hot spring never changes regardless of the season.

Soothe your mind and body in the hotel’s Meisen no Yu hot springs, and then retire to the comfort of your guest room. :SL

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sprouts |

stay

Images: Glen Claydon

The Orchards WHERE KABAYAMA, OUTER HIRAFU MANAGED BY MnK

The Orchards Niseko is a community development of large luxury chalets just outside Hirafu Village. The quiet and picturesque setting, with spectacular Mt Yotei and ski hill views, is perfect for families year round, but comes into its own in summer.

Until six years ago, the 7ha site was a garlic and asparagus farm. To retain that rural ambience, almost two hectares have been preserved as a “green zone”. The main feature is the 3000sqm pond at the centre of the estate surrounded by mature cherry and pine trees.

The Orchards Niseko is the perfect place to take a family or group of families any time of year to enjoy the best of Niseko. MnK management can look after everything for your holiday, from predelivery of groceries to booking babysitters and restaurants. :SL

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sprouts |

stay

Images: Glen Claydon

Glasshouse WHERE LOWER HIRAFU VILLAGE MANAGED BY NISADE

A 2014 nominee for Japan’s Best Ski Chalet at the World Ski Awards, Glasshouse is a true four-seasons luxury chalet. Set on a spectacular cliff-side perch on the lower-most boundary of Hirafu Lower Village, there’s nothing but rivers and forest between it and towering Mt Yotei.

It was dubbed Glasshouse for the floor-to-ceiling windows encasing the top-floor living and dining area, making it feel like it’s hovering in the treetops and inviting the ever-changing environment inside.

It was originally built as the Niseko dream home of Simon Robinson, founder of Hokkaido Tracks Resort Properties. After developing dozens of Niseko’s first modern chalets and condominiums, Robinson – formerly a restaurateur – set about building his own place where he could cook and host guests in his home year-round. :SL

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deep summer |

photography

a thousand words Local photographers encapsulate the essence of the four-seasons Niseko experience.

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Top: Japanese stone lanterns in the green season | Darren Teasdale Right top: Lake Toya... Discover the picturesque lakes of the greater-Niseko region | Paul Malandain Right: Another day dawns behind the year-round spectacle of Mt Yotei | Glen Claydon Previous page: After winter, the snow melts to reveal the colours of the rural Niseko landscape | Aaron Jamieson

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Majestic Yotei reflected in the Rankoshi rice fields | Paul Malandain A glimpse is all that’s required to remind you of Mt Yotei’s presence | Aaron Jamieson

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Summer in Japan is a time of festivity and celebration. Nowhere is this more true than snowbound Hokkaido, where residents need little excuse to get outside and celebrate a natsu matsuri (summer festival) while the sun shines. People of all ages relish the opportunity to launch into raucous summer celebration, and every weekend sees a different town hold their own festival.

Every town has its own unique point of difference, and often it’s based around the local food speciality. One thing they all share in common

is fireworks, ensuring the neighbouring villages know about the rowdy good times being held just down the road. Everyone is invited and everyone joins in the dancing, drinking and eating that are the nuclei of each matsuri.

If you’re in Niseko in summer don’t miss the Kutchan Jaga Matsuri (Potato Festival); the Hirafu Matsuri (probably one of the only truly multicultural matsuri in Japan); the Niseko Tanabata no Yuube Matsuri (Fireworks and Star Festival), and the Kyowa Kakashi Matsuri (Scarecrow Festival).

Top: Hirafu Matsuri. Lanterns and fireworks – essential ingredients for every festival | Aaron Jamieson Right: Niseko Matsuri – a contender for the best summer fireworks display | Darren Teasdale

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a thousand words

Above: Nature on your doorstep | Darren Teasdale

Above: The quintessential Japanese rice field in front of a misty Niseko mountain range | Paul Malandain

Right: In the stillness of a Niseko morning you might catch a glimpse of Niseko’s less prominent inhabitants | Darren Teasdale

Left: Beautiful symmetry in Kutchan’s potato fields | Darren Teasdale

:SL

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deep summer |

adventure

yotei sunrise

You may not have realised yet, but you will... Mt Yotei holds a beauty and power that is inexplicable. However serene it appears from a distance, one must remember mountains are no place for the unprepared. Yotei-zan’s peak is the first place in Niseko to see the sunrise, offering yet another temptation to risk safety for a rare reward. To witness this spectacle requires camping on the crater rim, or hiking up during the night. Jared Pangier chose the latter. | jared pangier

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| aaron jamieson

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as our van arrived at the makkari trailhead i took my iphone out of my pocket to check the time. 12:35 am... the start of a new day. time to hike a mountain.

I

had signed up for this full-moon night hike as a volunteer teacher – someone to be present, someone to encourage, and someone to offer whispered guidance. All of these things I could do. Yet, there would be many things I didn’t expect. Many things on this trip would be different from what I had experienced before.

Walking and mud. I walked as the rain misted down. The surface below reminded me of Fuji Rock – Japan’s biggest music festival – the place I had watched Oasis play one of their last concerts as I stood ankle-deep in water and mud. Only this time, there was no standing – simply walking. I walked on and on, wondering why I had signed up for this. Yotei wasn’t like this!? It was filled with greenery, luscious plants and low-lying trees, red berries or, in a different season, pure white snow. But not this brown.

What was this brown and how could I continue walking when every step came with effort? I walked on into the pitch-black night, winding and weaving over the evil-apple-tree-like roots that riddled the path up the mountain, the mud sucking at my boots.

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I was glad for my boots. High-cut Columbia hiking boots with thick, knobby tread. Boots and socks. My thick snowboarding socks were perfect for padding my feet – just what I needed to keep the blisters away. For a blister when hiking is like an incessant mosquito buzzing in your ear telling you to quit. No blisters for me, only walking and heat.

I was hot, nearly overheating to the point of exhaustion. It couldn’t be my rain gear, I thought. I had on the newest Gore-Tex, a circular weaving C-Knit made by MontBell on textiles only found in Japan. This was rain gear that kept me dry and let my body breathe.

So if not the rain gear, then what? And then I knew it was my convenient fluorescent yellow jumpsuit, or ninja suit as the its manufacturer Airblaster calls it. The merino wool, another material made for dual purposes, was being used out of its element. My winter suit should have stayed in the closet until winter. Layers were what I needed. But I had taken the ninja suit out of convenience, to save space. Instead, the oneness of the suit left me rolling up my sleeves, sweating the whole way up. I trudged on as the

mist came down, providing just enough cooling water to keep me climbing.

And climbing is why I was here. Had Yotei really been this steep, this long? My mind recalled the key point which made this a tough hike: vertical change. No matter which of the four paths you picked around Yotei, each one started very close to the bottom, 230m above sea level max. And what that meant was that to get up to the nearly 1900m to the summit of Yotei, I would need to hike 1600m vertically.

To put things in perspective, on Fuji, the famous mountain for which Yotei gets its comparative nickname, Ezo Fuji, the vertical change from one of the more popular starting points is less than 1400m. This means that hiking Yotei calls for an extra 15 per cent climb.

That is no insignificant detail. It was that vertical distance that I felt with every push of my legs, my quadriceps throbbing with every step. It had been six years since I had last climbed Yotei. Six and a half years since my winter hike and nearly eight since Yotei had put me under her spell.

Niseko. A name synonymous with lighterthan-air powder snow. Whether you’re a

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snowboarder like myself, a skier, or a telemark specialist, the Niseko area has so much to offer. But don’t let your eyes transfix on the white-wall effect surrounding you. Move past the entrancing powder and look to the horizon, to the mesmerizing sight of Mt Yotei. On a clear day, this lone, symmetrical 1898m giant fixes the eye and anyone who stares at her long enough will be drawn into her beauty. Like a temptress, a femme fatale, there is a dangerous allure found within the cratered heart of Machine-shiri, the Ainu name for Yotei, meaning female mountain. I too, had succumbed to Yotei’s gravitational pull. I had to climb to the top of this mystical mountain with the mysterious cloud formation that always predicts snow. I was no hiker, I was not a pro snowboarder nor backcountry expert, but I would hike Mt Yotei in summer, if it were the last thing I did.

The awe-inspiring grandeur of Yotei had brought me back. That was why I stood immersed in mud – hungry, hiker-eating mud – waiting for the last members of our crew to fight past a nosebleed, blistered ankles, and exhaustion. As I waited, I began wondering. How in the world we would ever make it to the top at this rate? Was first light even a possibility? I quelled my anxieties by quenching my thirst with a pull on my CamelBak, and stocking up on energy with half of my maple syrup Calorie Mate. I glanced at the sign. Fifth Station. We were only half way up this mountain.

5 out of 10. 50 per cent of the way through with only 70 minutes left until true dawn and 50 minutes until twilight would begin. All my dreaming of a sunrise from the top had to be put aside. We pushed on post-haste.

As the day grew brighter, familiarity showed its face. Greens and oranges and reds appeared with the morning chirping of birds.

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“On a clear day, this lone, symmetrical 1898m giant fixes the eye and

anyone who stares at her long enough will be drawn into her beauty.”

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“Two more stations to go. But the last two are the hardest.

They mess with your mind.

You can see the slope of the

mountain, the lovely farmland views below. And up, still far out of reach, lies the top.”

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Sixth Station, Seventh Station and eighth. Two students down, taken by the mountain. I continued hiking together with the last attempting student as we made our way above the tree line. The sun was already in the sky. We looked out to the horizon as the clouds broke momentarily. Beyond the sea of clouds lay the the magnificent sight of the ocean. The view boosted our spirits as we pushed onward. My legs were pumping hard. Maybe I should have kept my pole for myself, instead of selflessly lending it out to someone doing it harder than I was.

Two more stations to go. But the last two are the hardest. They mess with your mind. You can see the slope of the mountain, the lovely farmland views below. And up, still far out of reach, lies the top. It hangs there on the edge of your sight never getting any closer, like Sisyphus forever rolling the giant boulder up the hill. So I keep climbing, fixed on my goal to make it to the top, to the crater, to look down into the 750m-wide bowl of Yotei.

As I get to Ninth Station, I glance at the signed intersection. The cabin, which is available for hikers to stay in for as little as ¥800, has been covered up in a blanket of clouds. I push right, towards the rim, wondering just like the trailing student, how much longer can this be?

And then the path turns vertical, I walk up and up and up and arrive at a new sign. I find myself at the crater. To the left is the full circumnavigation of the volcanic rim – at least 90 more minutes of fast walking. To the right, a direct path to the summit. I break right, encouraging the student to do the same. But Yotei goes on and on as we get lost in the clouds. At the arrival at one peak, I see a stack of rocks in pyramid formation. Is this the top? I think for a moment. But then a sign in Japanese lets me know it’s not. The true peak is that-a-way, the sign says, and I continue on, up and down over undulating hills of stone and scree, grabbing rocks and following the painted white dots, the markers which reassure me that I

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am indeed on the path to the summit. And then I meet part of our crew. They are ready to head back down and ask if I’d like to join. No, I say, I want to reach the top. I head onwards.

Huffing and puffing, I glance up to see the sight I had been waiting for. Just 10m up, at the top of a steep hill of loose rocks, stands the sign: 羊蹄山頂 – Mt Yotei Peak. I smile, scramble over the scree, and reach up to hug the wooden, obelisk sign. And just as I do, the clouds begin moving away faster than it takes to pull out my camera.

All around me are the views I had waited for. No

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sunrise, but no worries. The ambient morning light reveals a stunning sight. The slope of Mt Yotei in its fall colours leads down toward the surrounding farms. Off in the distance lie clear patches of blue, true signs of this island nation.

But the most amazing sight is behind me. From the depths of the crater of Mt Yotei beams a full rainbow (pictured below left). For the first time in my life I have reached the end, and the beginning, of the rainbow. Not the arch we see from the ground but the entire circular refraction of light.

I race down the mountain to catch up with my group, remembering why we hike, remembering that Yotei is a special mountain with so much to see. Yotei is a physical reminder of the various stages of life. My winding hike up and down the mountain, around the switchbacks, through the mud, over the loose rocks, and arriving facing the clear sky, symbolised to me that there really is a pot gold at the end of the rainbow, if we’re willing to search for it.

The hike above took place as an optional adventure for students of Hokkaido International School (HIS). HIS believes that adventures such as these encourage students to grow as leaders. In the words of Dave Piazza, the director of the school’s outdoor leadership program: “Leadership is hard to measure, but it begins when we give students the chance to lead. What better way than marching up Yotei in the dark?” :SL

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deep summer |

travel

tour du nord

| glen claydon

Touring Hokkaido by road bike is not so much about getting to the destination as quickly as you can but rather enjoying the journey along the way. There’s something special about taking time out and cruising through a week-long road cycling tour. Such is the Tour du Nord.

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T

he Tour du Nord (nord meaning north in French) has been organised by local Canadian cycling enthusiast Paul Butkovich each year since 2013. Participants meander along unique routes through Hokkaido’s vast network of quiet country roads, sampling the sights and sounds of summer and staying in traditional accommodation along the way.

In previous years tours have passed through central and northern Hokkaido. This year it headed down to the southern tip of Hokkaido, starting and finishing in Hirafu.

The tour first travelled west towards the Sea of Japan past the coastal fishing town of Suttsu which originally developed during the heyday of the booming Japanese herring trade. Since the demise of the herring fishery in the 1990s the town has moved towards aquaculture. After a delicious lunch of fresh oysters we made our way down to Shimamaki, the name of which is derived from the Ainu word “shuma ko mak”, meaning “behind rocks”. The pattern of the trip was established quickly; morning ride, lunch, ride to the final destination, have an onsen (hot

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spring bath), put on our yukata (unisex summer kimono), then eat a delicious dinner.

On day two the group cycled to the town of Setana and in the early afternoon took the ferry out to Okushiri Island which lies about 30km off the coast. The ferry took around 1.5 hours and after arriving we rode in brilliant sunshine along the pristine coastline to the other side of the island to our accommodation.

Okushiri was a beautiful experience with quiet roads and spectacular scenery. Apart from its delicious uni (sea urchins), Okushiri boasts sheep pastures and beech forests. In 1993 a 7.8 magnitude earthquake devastated the island and the subsequent tsunami and landslides took the lives of around 230 people.

The next morning we started early (5.30am!) to ride to the ferry for the crossing back to the mainland and the transfer further south to the charming port town of Esashi. One of the oldest towns in Hokkaido, Esashi’s name derives from the Ainu word for a type of edible kelp, called konbu, a basic in Japanese cuisine including in dashi stock. The town is also the birthplace of a traditional folk music, “Esashi oiwake”.

From Esashi we headed inland to historic Hakodate city, the port where Japan first opened up to foreign trade as a condition of the signing of the Convention of Kanagawa negotiated

by American Commander Perry in 1854. As a result, Hakodate has a truly international flavour with many original Western-style buildings from early consulates which are a feature of the city.

From Hakodate the group pedalled out on one of the biggest rides of the trip, along the coast all the way to Onuma, in the Nanae region, taking in around 130km on the saddle.

Along the way we found time to take a break and a midday natural onsen bath at Esandoritsu National Park. Mt Esan dominates the region.

It’s an active volcano creating a hot spring right on the coast where you can soak in warm earthfed waters and then roll out straight into the bracing ocean to cool down.

Back in the saddle to Onuma we were spurred on by the thought of a glass of cold Onuma beer, the town’s eponymous brew.

Onuma rice cakes are also a sought-after item on the tourist’s shopping list. The Nanae region

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Photos clockwise from above: Enjoying oysters and wine for lunch on the ocean at Suttsu; encountering some cooling rains in the lush Nanae region; wearing a yukata (summer kimono) is standard evening wear and a fun cultural experience at traditional inns; chilling out at the ocean-side Mizunashi Kaihin Onsen (hot spring) near Hakodate.

“The Tour du Nord is suited to biking enthusiasts who like to have fun and smell the roses – or the local floral versions

- rather than trying to beat the timekeeper’s watch.”

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is famous for its own interpretation of the cream puff, Nanamitsuki apples and king mushrooms.

From the Nanae region, we tackled another big ride back to the Setana area in tough, rainy weather – luckily with the wind at our backs. Setana faces the Sea of Japan with the Shiribeshi-Toshibetsu River running through.

The town is known for having the sole off-shore wind farm in Japan but with only two turbines so far there’s still room for industry expansion.

On the final day the route crossed back over the neck of the island to Lake Toya, which in 2008 hosted the 34th G8 Summit meeting of leaders of the world’s eight richest industrialised nations at the five-star Windsor Hotel. Given the food riches available from the local region it was a perfect occasion to showcase Hokkaido’s produce and culinary prowess.

The Tour du Nord is suited to biking enthusiasts who like to have fun and smell the roses – or the local floral versions - rather than trying to beat the timekeeper’s watch. Riders are of mixed abilities and levels of fitness and are not averse to breaking from the pack to cover the route at their own pace. However, members

always look out for each other and meet at designated points for breaks and meals. The support van is always on hand, carrying extra luggage and spare parts and offering assistance.

The Tour du Nord is a deeply satisfying and rewarding experience: there’s nothing like taking time out and peddling through beautiful Hokkaido for a week with a group of riders who inevitably quickly become friends. :SL

If you’re interested in cycling through Central Hokkaido on the 2016 Tour du Nord from 3-10 September, email Paul and the team at Rhythm Cycles on info@nisekocycles.com.

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deep summer |

challenge

Trail & Error | aaron jamieson

| glen claydon

Author and first-time trail runner Aaron pulls back the lead.

“The next 10 minutes were pure hell.

Burning, horrendous steps that seemed to

get muddier and more slippery with every step. I decided I’d just get to the top, walk home and never speak of this again.”

When I first agreed to participate in the famous NAC Trail Run, I did so in good jest at a bar late one evening. By the time the event came around Nicolas would have surely forgotten, and I’d be able to let the date pass and note how remiss it had been of me to forget...

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C

ommitting to the 10km race was one of the most regretful yet rewarding decisions of my life. Nicolas, an experienced campaigner for such events, had jovially suggested: “We should do this... Together – it will be fun!” In my usual agreeable tone that usually follows several beers I responded: “Sure, love to, awesome, yes, let’s do it. Another beer?”

I woke up the next morning to emails of registration forms and delighted enthusiasm from my new “mountain racing partner”. He was serious.

The race is not all that daunting. Just run up to the Ace Hill restaurant over muddy stairs that seem to rise into the clouds; traverse the rolling hills towards the swinging monkey chair lift; run down the trail to the gondola (this resembles a washed out gutter of loose rocks descending some 600m); then, when you’re completely exhausted, run past a jeering crowd of friends at the finish line at the forest that borders the golf course of Niseko Village, all the while clambering through waist-deep muddy streams and climbing ropes to pull yourself from the otherwise impossibly slippery creek beds; then run back (because it wasn’t enough to run past once) to the finish line at the base of the Ace quad. Collapse and die in a muddy heap.

Sounds fun right? Actually – YES! I had never trail run before, in fact the thought of walking up the steps to the Ace Hill was less than appealing. But with blind enthusiasm I turned up on the day in my shorts, T-shirt and drink bottle, ready to have a crack.

When I realised everyone had read “How to Mountain Run 101” and was wearing special water-draining shoes which matched their outfits, it dawned on me that I might be out of my depth.

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Luckily, Nicolas took pity on me, gave me a streamlined backpack drinking satchel and encouraged me with a genuinely concerned smile.

Without much ado the gun sounded and we were off – 180 eager trail runners all with one goal in mind. Determined to get a good start I powered off, leaping the first few steps to be in the front group for the initial stair climb. Just the start I wanted.

About, say, three minutes later and 150 stairs into the climb I began to feel the burn – a raging fury in my lungs as I gained altitude and slowly died, stair by stair. I slowed, then slowed more as streams of experienced runners powered upward toward the clouds; clouds I felt I’d never reach.

The stream continued and I continued to slow, struggling, hating, wishing I’d never considered such a ridiculous challenge.

I wish I could say I pushed on, reached the top and found a renewed vigour. But I didn’t. I stopped, heaving and writhing on a platform while experienced runners passed me. I could see the smiles in their eyes, their jeers of “Haha – too hard, too soon, Padawan”. Then Nicolas chugged on by, surging upwards like an ox that had only just hit mid pace.

I hated everyone. Everything. I was now 10 minutes into a long distance endurance race and all I wanted to do was limp down to where I’d come from and pretend I’d never started.

I turned back and paused, then turned back again. Taking the next step uphill gingerly, then the next… plodding my way resentfully upwards. The next 10 minutes were pure hell. Burning, horrendous steps that seemed to get muddier and more slippery with every step. I decided I’d just get to the top, then walk home and never speak of this again.

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Before I knew it I was taking the last few steps onto the flats surrounding the Ace Hill. I walked for a bit, passed collapsed bodies and other struggling competitors in no better state than me. Their suffering spurred me on and I rolled into a slow jog. Now, almost last, I followed the throngs of correctly clad competitors, plotting my escape. Nicolas was nowhere in sight.

I trundled along, thinking of the ridiculous situation I had brought upon myself only to continue to pass an ever-increasing number of flailing bodies on the side of the trail. Still I plodded, until plodding seemed wasteful and I decided to jog, picking up my pace. “Ah, what the hell,” I thought. “Nice day to be in the mountains at the very least.”

My jog turned into a lumbering run and I descended towards the gondola, just hoping that it’d all be over soon and I’d be back drinking beers where this had all so foolishly begun.

I ran and ran and forgot. I forgot about the race, I forgot about Nicolas and every other competitor… I stopped caring entirely. I just began to look at my surroundings and enjoy the serenity of the picturesque Niseko summer.

A cool breeze licked away my sweat, Yotei pushed through the mist, and I found myself alone, smiling and enjoying myself and my surroundings.

Niseko is beautiful in summer. It’s a common saying that you come for the winters, but live here for the summer. I was suddenly alone and puffing along with composure. A misty and humid summer day, I was drenched.

My non-wicking shirt was clinging to me like a damp dishcloth around a stovepipe. My shoes were sodden as I squelched along.

My mood shifted as quickly as the Niseko weather fuelled by my love of this place. I began to truly enjoy my undulating run in the mountains.

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“Penguin-sliding into mud-filled gullies

and grunting my way out the other side; dragging myself up using sasa grass and tree roots; only to drop back into a fresh

muddy pool on the other side. This was the true definition of ‘immersion in nature’.”

ON SALE NOW I trotted on past the groups of people hanging around the starting point and entered the final half of the challenge – into the forest.

Entering the forest, the mud began to wreak havoc and the colour co-ordinated competitors began dropping like flies in a cloud of bug spray.

The fun truly began here: penguin sliding into mud-filled gullies and grunting my way out the other side; dragging myself up using sasa grass and tree roots, only to drop back into a fresh muddy pool on the other side. This was the true definition of “immersion in nature”.

From here the going got easier and the trail began to caress me towards the finish line, somewhere on the other side of the pine forest. I trundled along, caked in dry mud and happy as a pig in the wet version. I was sweaty, exhausted and just generally happy that I hadn’t died on the stairs an hour ago. The stream of pine trees whisked by with the intermittent flash of colour of walking competitors, who

seemed less enthusiastic about the mud-caked push to the finish line than I was.

I kept running. Then, like a shadow in the distance, I saw the spectre of my trail buddy...

Walking... Slowly... It was Nicolas, the one who had signed me up for this torture. I knew I was less than 1km from the finish line and I felt a renewed vigour. I maintained my run and closed the gap, all the while passing more humans holding up trees and gasping for breath.

With a deft slap I trotted passed Nicolas only to see his eyes widen with astonished fury… “What... how?!” I could hear him think.

“I thought you died on the stairs!” My presence ignited the last reserves of energy and we trotted along together, too tired to speak but wallowing in the fast-approaching respite of the finish line.

From dead last I almost unknowingly passed the entire field to catch up to my partner and we stumbled the last few paces to the finish line to cross in 11th and 12th place together.

Was it the driving force of friendly competitiveness that spurred me on? Or the pure beauty of Niseko making me run for the love of my surroundings? I won’t ever know. But I can say definitively that challenging myself to discover what lies outside my comfort zone was reward beyond any I’d known before. :SL The annual NAC Trail Run offers 5km, 10km and 24km races, the latter summiting Mt Annupuri. More info: www.nacadventures.jp.

NI

RE N I S E KO R E A LT Y

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We take care of everything for owners of second homes in Niseko, Japan

W E T A

www.nisekoowners.com info@nisekoowners.com +81 (0)136 55 8122 191-19 Aza Yamada, Kutchan, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081 Japan

deep summer |

architecture

Places Called Home Niseko is no longer just a ski holiday destination.

It's a four-seasons lifestyle destination, and hundreds of people from around the world now call it “home”.

| KRISTIAN LUND

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| GLEN CLAYDON

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Kazane ARCHITECT

HOP Architects PROJECT MANAGER

Taiga Projects

K

azane provides a year-round escape for a Hong Kong family with a long-time love of Japan.

After many visits to the country, often spending Christmas in Tokyo, they discovered Niseko on a visit in summer and bought a block of land. They had no immediate plans to build a house but after several more trips their kids were hooked on skiing so they decided to build their dream home away from home.

“We love the food and we love the culture and we’ve always had a very strong connection to Japan,” says the owner. “In Hong Kong we live in an apartment so we wanted to build a big house in Niseko where the kids could spend a lot of time and keep coming back to as they got older.”

They wanted a Western-style ski chalet with a Japanese feel. The Japanese ofuro bathroom overlooking the neighbouring forest is a stunning feature, as is a beautiful traditional tatami (woven-straw mat) floor room which is great retreat for the kids.

They now visit up to four times a year – Christmas, Chinese New Year, Easter (spring time) and summer.

“I haven’t got one favourite feature – we just love the feel of the house when we’re here on vacation. We don’t rent it out so it feels like our home away from home and like we now have roots in Niseko. It’s a beautiful house and it’s ours so we can go to Niseko for a break whenever we like.” :SL

summerlife niseko

- 68 - volume 9 2016

#powderlife

Independent Distributor

resort guide | a-bu-cha

business directory

2

boot solutions

UPPER HIRAFU VILLAGE

UPPER HIRAFU VILLAGE

A wide variety of meals and drinks – Top marks!

A specialist custom ski boot and snowboard boot fitting operation

Try our popular Japanese dishes or hot-pots.

Choice of over 400 drinks! Mouth-watering home-made sweets. Take away menu is available. Authentic Japanese seating. Families are welcome.

Our team of Podiatrists and expert boot fitters will guide you into the perfect fit. Niseko’s largest range of ski and snowboard boots and winter footwear for men, ladies and kids. Visit us in store or book your appointment online.

abucha.net

Dinner 6pm – 1am (Last order 11.30pm) Closed Mondays

0136 22 5620

bootsolutionsjapan.com

0136 55 5695

higuchi immigration services

j amos consulting

SAPPORO

NISEKO

Visa and immigration services to match your needs

Chartered Accountant Xero Certified Advisor & MYOB Consultant

With extensive experience we can provide best solutions for your application. Certificate of Eligibility, Extension or Change of Status, Permanent Residence and other visa/immigration applications.

Niseko’s only English speaking, year-round accounting service offering set-up, training & support in Xero and MYOB, management accounting services, tax return preparation, budgets and cash flow forecasts and bookkeeping. Remote assistance throughout Japan.

higuchis.server-shared.com

9am - 6pm Weekdays

011 211 0608 higuchi-a@vesta.ocn.ne.jp

090 2650 4909 jonathan@jonathanamos.com

jonathanamos.com

& wine bar

kamimura

niseko cellars

UPPER HIRAFU VILLAGE

HIRAFU INTERSECTION

The iconic Michelin-starred French restaurant in Niseko

We offer a unique wine experience; Life’s too short to drink bad wine!

An intricate fusion of East meets West, we offer an array of degustation menus. This style of dining allow our guests to experience a wide range of flavours with a delicate balance of fresh Lunch Fri-Sun vegetables, meats and seafood. Summer months Dinner Thurs-Sat open July to early October.

Advance booking required

We stock current release, organic and biodynamic, rare vintage wines from all over the world. Craft beer & rare Japanese whisky. Local cheese, Hokkaido charcuterie and world sundries. Enjoy a bottle or two in-store anytime. Come see us in the J-Sekka building at the Hirafu traffic lights.

kamimura-niseko.com

nisekocellars.com

0136 21 2288

niseko foot

tuk tuk

UPPER HIRAFU VILLAGE

MIDDLE HIRAFU VILLAGE

Closest healing relaxation therapy spot to Centre 4 lift

Yummy, tiny Thai restaurant Spicy food makes you warm!

Visit this popular relaxation salon and sample our many treatments at Alpen Hotel 1F and B1F. All different styles of massage available for body and feet. 30-minute, 60-minute and 90-minute courses are available. Groups are welcomed.

Osteopathy and sports injuries are offered.

Tuk Tuk’s delicious menu uses the finest ingredients from Hokkaido and Thailand. Very spicy, non-spicy, vegetarian or party menu available. Tuk Tuk girls look forward to serving you. Please try our worldfamous coconut ice-cream!

grand-hirafu.jp/nisekofoot

summerlife niseko

- 72 - volume 9 2016

5pm–10pm Open daily Occasionally closed

0136 22 1224

tuktukniseko.com

8am - 8pm All year round

2pm - 10pm Occasionally closed

0136 23 1608

6pm - 11pm Occasionally closed

080 3249 4092

#powderlife

ALPEN HOTEL GRAND HIRAFU CHAIR LIFTS

WELCOME CENTRE

HIRAFU GONDOLA

GOKISETSU

HIRAFUZAKA

YAMA SHIZEN

UPPER HIRAFU SEICOMART

SHIKI 343

GO KISETSU NISEKO

UPPER HIRAFU ONSEN-SPA RESIDENCES

SALES LAUNCH WINTER 2015/16