Teruyoshi Hayashida was born in the fashionable Aoyama District of Tokyo, where he also grew up. He began shooting cover images for Men’s Club magazine after the title’s launch. A sophisticated dresser and a connoisseur of gourmet food, he is known for his homemade, soy-saucemarinated Japanese pepper (sansho), and his love of gunnel tempura and Riesling wine.
Photographs by Teruyoshi Hayashida Text by Shosuke Ishizu, Toshiyuki Kurosu, and Hajime (Paul) Hasegawa Described by The New York Times as, “a treasure of fashion insiders,” Take Ivy was originally published in Japan in 1965, setting off an explosion of American-influenced “Ivy Style” fashion among students in the trendy Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. The product of four collegiate style enthusiasts, Take Ivy is a collection of candid photographs shot on the campuses of America’s elite, Ivy League universities. The series focuses on men and their clothes, perfectly encapsulating the unique student fashion of the era. Whether lounging in the quad, studying in the library, riding bikes, in class, or at the boathouse, the subjects of Take Ivy are impeccably and distinctively dressed in the finest American-made garments of the time.
Shosuke Ishizu is the representative director of Ishizu Office. Originally born in Okayama Prefecture, after graduating from Kuwasawa Design School he worked in the editorial division at Men’s Club until 1960 when he joined VAN Jacket Inc. He established Ishizu Office in 1983, and now produces several brands including Niblick. Toshiyuki Kurosu was raised in Tokyo. He joined VAN Jacket Inc. in 1961, where he was responsible for the development of merchandise and sales promotion. He left the company in 1970 and started his own business, Cross and Simon. After the dissolution of his brand, he began appearing on the legendary variety show Asayan on TV Tokyo as a regular and soon gained popularity. He is also an active writer and intellectual.
Take Ivy is now considered a definitive document of this particular style, and rare original copies are highly sought after by “trad” devotees worldwide. A small-run reprint was released in Japan in 2006 and sold out almost immediately. Now, for the first time ever, powerHouse Books is reviving this classic tome with an all-new English translation. Prep style has never been more popular, in Japan or stateside, proving its timeless and transcendent appeal. Take Ivy has survived the decades and is an essential object for anyone interested in the history or future of fashion.
Hajime (Paul) Hasegawa is from Hyogo Prefecture. After studying in the U.S., Hasegawa returned to Japan in 1963 to join VAN Jacket Inc. At VAN, he was responsible for advertising and PR. For the production of Take Ivy, Hasegawa was the main coordinator and interpreter on the ground. He has since held several managerial positions in Japan and abroad and currently serves as executive director for Cosmo Public Relations Corporation.
U.S. $24.95 / $28.95 Can.
powerHouse Books is a leading publisher of highquality art, documentary photography, and pop culture monographs and illustrated books, including Chasing Beauty by Richard Phibbs, Back in the Days by Jamel Shabazz, Disfarmer: The Vintage Prints by Mike Disfarmer, and Unforgettable Steve McQueen by Henri Suzeau.
Printed and bound in China
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  Brooklyn, NY
This book was originally published in 1965 in Japanese by Fujingahosha, an esteemed magazine publisher founded in 1905. The company currently exists as Hachette Fujingaho Co., Ltd. The translation of the original text for this English-language edition has not been edited for the purpose of updating or revising facts, names, or other matters. Readers of this English-language edition are asked to remember this when reading the book or referencing its content. We visited all the institutions in the Ivy League — a group of eight prestigious universities on the East Coast of the U.S. — to learn everything about their campuses and the lives of students. Here is a report entitled “Everything About the Ivy League” with photos that our team of reporters collected during our one-month fact-finding trip. As the name suggests, the classic buildings on Ivy League campuses are literally adorned with green ivy. Tranquil school grounds are covered in lush grass. Dormitory lights remain lit until late at night. Classrooms are compact to accommodate a small, but elite group of brilliant students. The vast dining halls accommodate hundreds of hungry students at one time. Our camera successfully captured scenes of typical and beautiful American campuses in both lively and tranquil times. Each Ivy Leaguer wears clothes in his own way while maintaining an appropriate student look. The meaning of freedom can be found in what the students wear at their residential campuses. The underlying theme of their dress is casual, yet neat. I believe that this book serves as an invaluable documentary of appropriate dress codes on campuses. This book also contains photos of beautiful, traditional scenes in modern America — of the cities to where the Ivy Leaguers will set off after graduating. It also includes photographs of pedestrians in the heart of New York City and the shop windows of exclusive apparel boutiques in the neighborhood surrounding Fifth Avenue, both of which exhibit tradition and status. There are striking similarities between these boutiques and Ivy League campuses in the sense that they are both peaceful, yet full of life. That is exactly what the Ivy League is all about.
CONTENTS
Preface
3
College Life
7
Brown University on a rainy day. . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Intramural games. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Out on a bicycle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Library, a public study room. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Let it rain, let it rain, let it rain. . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Dormitory at night. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Stars and Stripes Forever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Princeton University. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 A tie for a Sunday . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Studying and sunbathing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Automobiles strictly prohibited . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 A place for studying? Why, yes! . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Ivy, ivy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Heave-ho! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 A warm-up. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 A book sale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 For the team’s honor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Ivy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Town of Princeton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 The clock tower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 “Passenger Wanted”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 In the laboratory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Library. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Dining hall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Classical signboards. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Champion/Classic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Dry cleaners. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Packard/Ford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Dartmouth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Dating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
CONTENTS
Classmates. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Training/The coach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bicycles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Assignments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lunch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lunch break. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
49 50 51 52 54 56
College Fashion
57
Modified T-shirts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rugby shirts/A yacht parka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The Dartmouth green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bermuda shorts — two variations . . . . . . . . . . . A letterman’s sweater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wardrobe for school. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sundays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sweatshirt — two variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Strutting in style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1968. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Elbow patches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . To classrooms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . An uncouth dresser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Varsity jacket/Short-sleeved sweatshirt. . . . . . . 1966. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . School emblem/School color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mascots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cotton trousers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Varsity jackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Off-white color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Button-down shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jacquard sweaters/Tartan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hoods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baseball caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Barefoot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
59 60 61 62 64 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87
A bagful of clothes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Sneakers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Madras checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Elements of “Ivy”
91
Businessmen’s uniforms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 A small window. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Brooks Brothers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Zum Zum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 And the young-at-heart. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 A tool shop/Tennis shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 A book store. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Men’s specialty shops. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 J Press . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Ivy League alumni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 College shops. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 A shop with a modern twist. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Yale University. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Take Ivy
109
The Eight Ivy League Universities . . . . . . . . . 110 Harvard, Yale, Princeton, Pennsylvania,
• •
Columbia, Dartmouth, Brown, Cornell
College Life. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 “Stars and Stripes Forever”/Study hard…/ Play hard…/Sound body/Sound mind/ John F. Kennedy/And the history repeats itself
Vehicles for Ivy Leaguers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Classic cars/Sports cars/Bicycles/Old bikes College Fashion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 A world called campus/Freedom and rules/
• •
Rough and uncouth — an Ivy League style/ Differences in seasons and individuals/ Barefoot and its rationality/Love for the alma mater through the school color/Varsity jackets prevail/ A day for a tie/Boyfriends and girlfriends/ Professors and the Madras checks
Ivy Wardrobe Directory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yale University’s 20-Article Dress Code. . . . . College Concerts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ivy League and Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . American football/Basketball/Crew/Lacrosse Ivy League Neighborhoods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . New England/Sundays in Boston/
• •
128 130 131 132 134
College shops/Co-op shops/Ivy League alumni/ New York/Madison men/Brooks Brothers/ J Press/Fifth Avenue
Layout design: Kazuhiro ASHIZAWA Illustration: Kazuo HOZUMI
College Life
staff Photography: Teruyoshi Hayashida Texts:
Shosuke ISHIZU Toshiyuki KUROSU Hajime (Paul) HASEGAWA
9
American junior and high school students aspire to go to Ivy League universities, in the same way the Japanese youngsters hope to attend the six most renowned universities in Japan. Not only does the name Ivy League sound prestigious, American students are attracted to college life at Ivy League universities for their long history and glorious tradition. Living in an environment conducive to studying, they also build friendship through dormitory, fraternity, and club activities, acquiring sophisticated manners through a cosmopolitan social life. Many Ivy Leaguers also find the love of their lives amongst the Ivy Sisters, and among women who attend eminent women’s colleges like the Seven Sisters. The life at an Ivy League university is synonymous with a “dreamcome-true” college experience. Our visit to Ivy League universities coincided with the end of term exams during which we were impressed by the hardworking students who would even dare to skip sleeping in order to pass their exams. At the same time, we learned that being an Ivy Leaguer is no easy task. We envy them for they are tackling their college experience, one of the most precious and glorious times of their lives, with youth and energy. We believe that Ivy League universities, the epitome of elite education, will continue to produce a number of world-class leaders.
Brown University on a rainy day Misty rain envelops the campus: the green of the trees and the grass, the red of the brick walls, and the black of the roofs create striking contrasts.
10
△ Intramural games Since there is absolutely no entertainment whatsoever outside of the Dartmouth campus, sports competitions, such as softball games held on campus, inevitably attract student interest.
▷ Out on a bicycle The bicycle is the most useful vehicle on an enormous campus. Students cycle between the dormitory, classrooms, the dining hall, and the library.
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Library, a public study room  Starting from the previous page, these photos show images of a library’s exterior and interior. How effectively a student uses the library determines his or her performance: whether he or she will become an honor student or end up failing classes. Ivy League libraries are always full of diligent students.
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Let it rain, let it rain, let it rain  A rainy day doesn’t need to be gloomy. This is the time when vividly-colored raincoats steal the show on campus.
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◁ Dormitory at night Room lights illuminate the dormitory windows in the night sky. Most of them are turned off at two or three o’clock in the morning, but some stay lit all night long.
△ Stars and Stripes Forever The Star-Spangled
Banner proudly flutters at the most prominent place on all the campuses.
▷ Princeton University The southernmost of the Ivy League universities, Princeton University boasts a breathtaking contrast between the blue sky and the white walls of the school buildings.
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△ Studying and sunbathing Ivy Leaguers frown upon students
who earn good grades but have pale skin from spending too much time inside. This photo shows a student who is desperately trying to get bronze skin while also preparing for an exam. He is studying on the grass in front of a Yale dormitory.
◁ A tie for Sunday Unlike weekdays, during which Ivy Leaguers dispense with wearing a tie or a jacket, Sundays are times when they don a formal outfit for church.
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Automobiles strictly prohibited  Many Ivy League universities prohibit students from owning cars. Do they go on a date on a bicycle, I wonder? In any case, cyclists are a ubiquitous sight on campuses and there is plenty of space to park bicycles.
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◁ A place for studying? Why, yes! A poor student blames his studying area. Ivy Leaguers certainly make no such excuses. In their determination to study, they can turn even a grassy area into a study spot. ◁ Ivy, ivy Living up to the name Ivy League,
everywhere I went the ivy, with its exceptional beauty, caught my eye. Here, the Harvard University campus.
△ Heave-ho! Upon the coxswain’s command, the
members of Dartmouth’s crew lower their shell into the river, demonstrating impressive coordination.
▷ A warm-up Be prepared and have no regrets. Train your body and prepare for critical events. Here, students are chatting, a legitimate form of warming-up.
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A book sale  Books are expensive in the US and thus students covet them. Upon hearing news of a book sale, the excited Ivy Leaguers swarm to it. Shopping  Shopping in town means paying extra for commodities compared to shopping at the co-op on campus. You have to admit, however, shopping in town sure can be more fun.
For the team’s honor  It is a real honor to win intramural games. It is no surprise then that the players and the spectators become so enthusiastic. Players devote their full energy even to a softball game.
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Ivy  I was enraptured by this exceptionally marvelous ivy on the Princeton campus. Planted to commemorate a graduation decades ago, it continues to adorn the building even today.
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△ The clock tower A clock tower with its pristine white facade
stands out amongst the greens and the brick buildings. This is one of the most exquisite buildings on the Princeton campus. This clock announces the starting and ending time of each class.
◁ Town of Princeton Princeton University is located in the town of Princeton which is renowned for its brilliant, lush greens. The greens, which can be seen through the archway, are spectacular.
“Passenger Wanted” This is a bulletin board where students exchange information using a piece of paper. You can find messages like, “Passenger Wanted” and “A Guitar for Sale.”
37 36
Library The Dartmouth College library is filled with refreshingly chilly air and a classical atmosphere. This tranquil room is dim even during the day.
39 In the laboratory Dartmouth College’s laboratories are outstanding, both in their size and in the quality of their overall facilities. A student is engrossed in an experiment of some sort.
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Dining hall  This stately building is, to our surprise, a dining hall. Satisfying the insatiable appetite of students, this is the most invaluable establishment of all on campus.
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Classical signboards Situated near the Canadian border, Hanover, where Dartmouth College is located, is a placid town with a long history. We were enthralled by the classical buildings and the tastefully designed shop signboards. Hanover Inn, the only hotel in town, Tony’s Barber Shop, The Hanover Inn Coffee Shop, a kettle-shaped sign…these playful signboards never ceased to fascinate us.
44
△ Champion Champion — though only of a softball game. A bed sheet has been converted into a glorious champion’s pennant.
△ Classic Ivy League universities are,
without exception, characterized by their classical and quiet buildings.
▷ Dry cleaners Students carry bagfuls of clothes to be laundered to the dry cleaner.
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△ Packard It appeared to us that
Ivy Leaguers are big fans of classic cars. In particular, a Packard attracts their admiring eyes.
◁ Ford A classic Ford Model A is slowly cruising amongst an array of brand-new cars. Such a peaceful sight is not uncommon on Ivy League campuses. ▷ Dartmouth This Ford Model A has been painted green to match Dartmouth’s school color. The yellow rim of the spare tire is conspicuous.
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Dating  The students’ favorite dating spot is the bank of the boating course. The deep green of the trees and clear water make a perfect dating venue.
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Bicycles Campuses in the U.S. are enormous beyond imagination. To American students, bicycles are an indispensable form of transportation between classes. If anything, on campus, cycling is considered “cooler” than driving a car. In the morning, students cycle to classrooms on their colorful bicycles.
△ Training
The training involved to be a member of a sports team is as arduous as in any country. Unlike Japan, however, at least the American students seemed to be enjoying themselves.
▷ The coach A boat team is training despite light rain. The coach catches a freshman daydreaming for a moment and mercilessly yells at him. Training is no bed of roses.
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Assignments  Being bombarded with assignments is not unusual for American university students and the same applies to Ivy League students. They mean business when tackling assignments.
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Lunch  These students are in the prime of their youth. They study hard, play hard, and, not to mention, eat very well. The dining hall is completely packed.
College Fashion Lunch break  Lunch break is one of the things that they look forward to most. Some rush cheerfully to the campus dining hall and some to a restaurant in town.
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Suppose “fashion” means “trend” in Japan — there certainly are trends in Ivy League universities as well. It is trendy to dress casually on campus. Except for the few particular occasions when a tie and a jacket are mandatory, all Ivy Leaguers that we observed were dressed in a relaxed, casual way. Some chose not to tuck in their shirts, leaving them out over their trousers. Some cut off the hems of their trousers and wore them as cut-off shorts, some put on shoes without socks…and the list goes on. The university authority does not seem to be impressed with this, but it appeared to us that the Ivy Leaguers feel no need to dress up for classes as long as they don’t look too scruffy, as if to say, “We live in a home called the campus, so why bother dressing up?” Quite rational reasoning, indeed. We also took notice of their loyalty towards their alma mater. When on the Ivy campuses, we often spotted students wearing clothes in the color of their school or adorned with a school emblem or name. Today’s Ivy Leaguers no longer seem to be as proud of being fashion icons as they once were, but their pride in being Ivy Leaguers was unmistakably clear.
Modified T-shirts A Princeton student wears a T-shirt: the sleeves have a school color and his expected graduation year is printed on the front.
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◁ Rugby shirt As if to make a statement that stormy
weather is no excuse for giving up on a rugby game, a student wears a rugby shirt and walks undaunted in the rain without an umbrella: he is clearly living up to the Ivy League standard.
◁ A yacht parka A rubberized sailing parka is the ultimate in rugged outerwear that can be worn not only on a stormy sea, but also on a rainy day or for playing sports.
△ The Dartmouth green A Dartmouth student wears a
cotton poplin jacket in the school color with a school emblem on it. Jackets like this are ubiquitous at other Ivy League universities.
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63 Bermuda shorts — two variations What can a man wear that is superior to the combination of an Oxford button-down shirt and a pair of check, Indian Madras Bermuda shorts? Wearing shoes without socks and untucking your shirt can be overlooked only because the students are on campus.
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◁ A letterman’s sweater Exhibiting the school’s honor and the wearer’s achievements, the glorious letter “P” on the sweater is given only to prominent athletes. ▷ Sundays Even some Ivy Leaguers who usually wear a suit or a sports jacket must feel like dressing up for Sundays. ▽ Wardrobe for school Rational-minded Ivy Leaguers don’t
bother looking neat for classes. They feel that they can get away with dressing casually as long as they don’t look too shabby.
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◁ Sweatshirt — two
variations A student is taking a stroll on a rainy campus wearing a sweatshirt which, of course, is in the school color. Ivy Leaguers are known for displaying their loyalty and pride in their alma mater on a daily basis.
▷ Strutting in style
Simply slipping into a pair of Bermuda shorts is no guarantee that you will look stylish. Strut in a brisk and confident way to complete your style.
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◁ 1968 The year printed on his chest signifies his graduation year. A simple calculation tells us he is a freshman. He is wearing a crew neck top in green, his school color. ▽ Elbow patches A student is wearing a cotton twill jacket
with a rubber trim collar, rubber cuffs as well as leather elbow patches. Quite the stylish dresser.
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△ To classrooms Each of these four Ivy Leaguers is
dressed according to his own style. Together they represent what we hoped to find on our fact-finding trip: the epitome of daily dress for Ivy Leaguers.
▷ An uncouth dresser A student wearing a football jersey top, a pair of cutoff shorts, and leather sandals. A typical example of uncouth style.
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Varsity jacket This jacket, in his school color, is made of felt material with leather sleeves. It is a must-have for every Ivy Leaguer.
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Short-sleeved sweatshirt This student wears a short-sleeved sweatshirt with “Dartmouth” printed on the front. Again, an Ivy Leaguer demonstrates his devotion to his alma mater. 1966 Here, a number of students were spotted wearing sweatshirts or sweaters with their prospective graduation years emblazoned in white over the green background.
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△ School emblem Every university cherishes its school emblem. Students acknowledge their school affiliation by wearing it: either a small one on their chest or a large one on their back.
▷ School color The school
color is as important as the school emblem. Dartmouth College’s color is dark green. Not only the students, but also the entire city embraces the school color.
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Mascots Every university has a school mascot and Dartmouth’s is the Indian. As with the school emblem, it appears on the students’ varsity jackets or shirts.
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Cotton trousers  A pair of cotton trousers is a staple of the student wardrobe. The trousers come in various colors: white, off-white, olive, and many others.
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△ Off-white color Off-white is not
quite white, but is light beige. It is evidently a popular color on campus: this student wears it from head to toe.
◁ Varsity jackets The majority of students wear a varsity jacket. Its variations in design are limited, but it comes in a variety of colors and thus can be enjoyed in many ways.
◁ Button-down shirts
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Button-down shirts are essential and are overwhelmingly prevalent amongst both Ivy Leaguers and the faculty alike.
▷ Jacquard sweaters
The sweater is also an indispensable article in their wardrobes. V-neck and crewneck sweaters seem to be the most popular.
▷ Tartan A student wears a tartan wool sport shirt. This campus was filled with colorful check patterns in every imaginable color.
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◁ Shorts The closer it gets to the summer, the higher their trouser hems become. With summer approaching, some even hastily cut off their hems to prepare. △ Hoods Jackets with a hood come in handy and keep you warm on a rainy or cold day. A student wears a hooded jacket on his way to class on a chilly morning.
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Baseball caps  As in Japan, many students do away with wearing a hat on campus. Still, we occasionally came across a few of them wearing baseball caps.
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Barefoot  On campus, students get away with sloppy dressing. Wearing shoes without socks is one such uncouth practice.
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◁ A bagful of clothes Students treasure their belongings: in particular, their clothes. They say taking them to the dry cleaner before they get too dirty is key to good maintenance. ▷ Sneakers To students, sneakers are more desirable than pricey leather shoes. Sneakers are versatile and go with almost anything, whether a sweater or Bermuda shorts.
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Elements of “Ivy”
Madras checks In an effort to differentiate him from the masses, this student wears patchwork Madras Bermuda shorts.
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Businessmen’s uniforms Almost without exception, Madison men striding in the city wear a jacket, a hat, and an Ivy-style suit, while also carrying an attaché case.
What is “Ivy?” Its implications go beyond the group of eight prestigious universities that belong to the Ivy League, American football, or the vine itself that covers the buildings of Ivy League schools. It is also not simply about Madison Avenue, Brooks Brothers, modern jazz, and folk songs. They do play a part in defining “Ivy” as a whole, but each of them is only but a peripheral component that makes up “Ivy.” “Ivy” encompasses offices in Wall Street as well as the fine men’s boutiques and department stores on Fifth Avenue and Madison Avenue in New York. It also includes the restaurants and coffee shops, the modern jazz and folk songs found in venues in Greenwich Village. These things together are what “Ivy” is all about. In order to entirely understand the spirit of “Ivy,” you must appreciate and master all aspects of American East Coast culture. Despite the U.S.’s relatively short history as a nation, it is not an easy task to thoroughly understand the American past. The “Ivy” we witnessed during our factfinding trip is nothing but the tip of the iceberg and is not, in any way, something shallow and limited. You need to gain knowledge not only about the Ivy Leaguers but also about the peripheral factors surrounding them. Gaining a complete understanding of these factors is the proverbial ticket to becoming a full-fledged Ivy Leaguer.
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▽ A small window At this truly
smart, trend-setting boutique on Fifth Avenue, its window display is a perfect example of a less-is-more approach: only a partial area is occupied with merchandise.
▷ Some window displays are coordinated in pale gray. In other displays, the bright red color caches a pedestrian’s eyes. Window displays never cease to entertain passersby night and day.
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Brooks Brothers  Situated on the corner of Madison Avenue and 44th Street, Brooks Brothers is the most famous men’s boutique in this neighborhood. Their window display exudes a refined, yet understated pride as the pioneering Ivy League fashion brand.
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Zum Zum Well-known for its beer and sausages, this Zum Zum restaurant gets filled with Madison men during every lunch hour.
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And the young-at-heart In the U.S., you will learn that “Ivy” is not merely another trend that comes and goes. One may wonder if there is an unwritten dress code among Ivy Leaguers, businessmen, and executives, since they are invariably dressed in the Ivy style, as if to make a statement that it is the one and only orthodox school of fashion.
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Tennis shop Looking for tennis equipment? Look no further. You will find anything that you will ever need for playing tennis here. Very Ivy, isn’t it?
A book store The final week of a semester means the beginning of the book store sale. Here you can get any of these three books for $1.45.
A tool shop On Fifth Avenue, I was delightfully surprised to find a gem of a shop like this one that sells every tool imaginable.
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Men’s specialty shops You will not fail to notice the sophisticated men’s boutiques located in the vicinity of Ivy League universities. Every store has shirts, jackets, blazers, and other items displayed in an artistically tempting way in an effort to squeeze yet one more cent out of struggling students.
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J Press Near Yale University, several famous men’s boutiques are located. J Press, with its flagship shop in New York, stands majestically over its competitors with the air of a first-class establishment. Its window displays clothes and accessories that cater to student tastes.
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Ivy League alumni  New York City, a whole new world, awaits the successful graduates of Ivy League universities.
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◁ College shops This self-explanatory establishment is a college shop located right next to Columbia University, New York. △ A shop with a modern twist This unusually mod-
ern looking boutique appeared out of nowhere, among an array of classical-looking men’s boutiques.
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Text: Shosuke ISHIZU / Toshiyuki KUROSU / Hajime HASEGAWA
Yale University Yale University has the largest campus among Ivy League universities. The ivy that covers the granite wall of the school building creates a refreshing contrast.
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The Eight Ivy League Universities
Harvard University John F. Kennedy, the young, former U.S. president remarkable for his radiant idealism until he was felled by an assassin’s bullet, was a graduate of Harvard University, founded in Cambridge, Massachusetts in 1636. Only 16 years before, the first group of immigrants arrived at Plymouth Rock after traversing the Atlantic Ocean from England on the Mayflower. Needless to say, it is the oldest university in the U.S. The name Harvard comes from a man who
Yale University The world’s three biggest intercollegiate games include: the boat race between Oxford University and Cambridge University in England, the baseball game between Waseda University and Keio University in Japan, and the American football game between Yale and Harvard. At the football game against Harvard, the Yale students sing a song in support of their team written by Cole Porter. Obviously, music is an important element
Princeton University Princeton University’s school colors are orange and black and its mascot is a tiger in the same colors. Nicknamed the Garden State, New Jersey is known for its spectacular pastoral landscape. Though it is only an hour and a half away from New York City by car, the city of Princeton is peaceful and tranquil. Princeton University was founded as the College of New Jersey in 1746 under a royal
University of Pennsylvania The University of Pennsylvania was founded by the eccentric, yet eminent Benjamin Franklin who flew a kite in a violent rainstorm to determine whether a thunderstorm has electricity. In the years after its founding in 1740, it had poor facilities: classes were taught at a church belonging to the evangelist George Whitefield who was one of the founding members of the university. Impressed by Franklin’s paper, “Proposals for the Education of Youth in Pennsylvania,”
generously donated his land and collection of books to the university after learning about the academically ardent Puritans who had been searching for a place for academic study. Harvard University has an enrollment of approximately 4,700 students, gathered not only from the U.S., but also from all over the world. Having roughly 1,250 professors and lecturers, a simple calculation tells us that there is one professor or lecturer for every six students. Unlike universities in some countries where education is an operation of mass production, Harvard University thus lives up to its motto: veritas (the pursuit of truth).
at Yale: its glee club recently toured around Japan and entertained Japanese audiences with outstanding performances. “The Whiffenpoof Song,” a well-known chorus group’s theme song, is the most popular college song in the U.S. Founded in 1701, Yale University is located in New Haven, Connecticut, between New York and Boston. Its 4,000 students include Don Schollander, an Olympic athlete who competed in the Tokyo Olympics. All the students live either in a dorm on campus or in the neighborhood surrounding the university.
charter issued by King George II of Britain. The name comes from the town of Princeton where the university is located. It currently has a student body of 3,000, all of whom are men. They therefore have no Ivy Sisters. The Institute for Advanced Study, a collaborative institution of Princeton University, was the home of a number of notable, Nobel-prize caliber scholars — D r. Einstein known for his theory of relativity and Dr. Oppenheimer who successfully developed the knowledge to create atomic bombs. Both men conducted research at the institute. The institute continues to contribute to mankind with its exceptional research achievements.
24 prominent citizens of Philadelphia agreed to donate land and buildings, which became the core of the expanded university. University of Pennsylvania campus life centers around Houston Hall, the oldest student union in the U.S. It consists of the chaplain’s office, a chapel, a dining hall, cafeteria, and kiosks. It is managed by 12 elected students who discuss and decide issues, such as whom to invite for the next college concert.
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Columbia University Located 20 minutes by subway from Times Square, the center of the world’s biggest city, New York, Columbia University is situated between Central Park and Harlem. Given its location right in the hustle and bustle of a big city, unlike other Ivy League universities, tranquility is not one of its features. When in New York you can, however, visit the United Nations and Wall Street, and enjoy museums, art galleries, and libraries to your heart’s content.
Dartmouth College The northernmost of the Ivy League universities, Dartmouth College is located in Hanover, New Hampshire. It takes seven hours to get there from Boston by car. Hanover is so small that one may wonder whether the campus is located in it, or whether the town is merely a part of the campus. The town’s main street also happens to be the busiest main street on campus — something unthinkable at a Japanese university.
Brown University Surrounded by a few red, brick buildings and black, iron fences on a slightly elevated hill in Providence, Rhode Island, the green grass of the school grounds glistens. Brown University was founded in 1764 as Rhode Island College in Warren, Rhode Island. It is the third-oldest university in New England and the seventh oldest in the U.S. In an arrangement unique among Ivy League universities, Brown University consists of two
Cornell University Cornell University, the newest of the Ivy League universities, is located in Ithaca, New York. It was founded in 1865 by Ezra Cornell, after whom the university is named. With approximately 8,400 students, its student body is naturally the largest in the Ivy League. It also means that Cornell students account for roughly a quarter of the 30,000 person population of Ithaca. They are, therefore, the core of the town’s economy.
Columbia University was founded in 1754 as King’s College. Probably for that reason, the school emblem has the design of a crown and its school mascot is a lion, the king of beasts. Unlike other Ivy League universities which were founded with strong religious affiliations, Columbia University is unique in the way that it has advocated freedom of religion since its inception. Although it currently has 2,800 students, its first graduating class included only eight students. Thus it achieved a rapid growth during a short period of time. In its neighborhood is Barnard College, one of the Seven Sisters, that still maintains a close exchange with Columbia University.
Dartmouth’s principal sport is skiing. In fact, there are three university-owned ski slopes near the campus. Needless to say, Dartmouth has traditionally been strong in collegiate ski competitions. Chiharu Igaya, a former Japanese skier in the Winter Olympics, was a prominent member of a past Dartmouth ski team. Dartmouth College is known for its unique honor code which advocates and emphasizes taking responsibility for one’s actions. In accordance with the university honor code, exams and dormitories are not supervised and thus each student’s self-discipline is expected. As described in its motto — “the voice of one crying in the wilderness” — the Dartmouth campus exudes a sense of vigorous youth.
institutions: Brown College for male students and Pembroke College for female students. Brown College has 2,400 male students and Pembroke 1,200, totaling 3,600 students for the entire university. Brown University does not excel in a particular sport, but a swimming test is a required part of the physical test that all freshmen must complete. Acquiring sufficient swimming skills is therefore mandatory for all students.
Cornell is also unique in the Ivy League for having a school of hotel administration from which a number of prominent hoteliers and restaurateurs have graduated. Ichiro Inumaru of the Imperial Hotel in Japan is one graduate. Interestingly, after completing four years of learning all aspects of hotel or restaurant administration, a successful graduate will receive a Bachelor of Science degree — a quite pompous-sounding degree. Also, only Cornell offers a special dormitory for married couples, which is a five minute walk from the campus.
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College Life
The Ivy League consists of eight prestigious universities, each of which has long-held and unique traditions that help to maintain a sense of school spirit at each university. Campus life also differs from university to university and there is not one definition of what Ivy League college life is like. Nonetheless, we did notice a certain type of harmonized, established style prevalent at all Ivy League institutions. During our factfinding trip, we particularly observed a common philosophy of “a sound mind and sound body,” a spirit inherited from ancient Greece. We also encountered a typically-American, rational attitude of “study hard, play hard,” among students at all the universities. “Stars and Stripes Forever” Each morning, the national flag is raised on university campuses. It is no big surprise, given that the most prominent symbol of the U.S. is The Stars and Stripes. After their sense of being a part of the human race, Ivy Leaguers (except for foreign exchange students), next identify with being American. I am quite envious of the custom of starting each day in this way. Don’t get me wrong: no one wants right-wing style, ultranationalism. But if one is going to genuinely appreciate his or her homeland, true patriotism is absolutely necessary. Maintaining loyalty to your native land while also being constructively critical of it at times is an attitude that all Ivy Leaguers must universally maintain. It is also necessary for Ivy Leaguers to keep this same spirit vis-à-vis their university, and after graduation to the companies where they will work or to the organizations to which they will belong.
Study hard… Ivy Leaguers take pride in their outstanding intelligence and refinement, but those attributes don’t come easy: the students need to deal with a monumental amount of studying to get through semesters. Don Schollander, a student at Yale University, complains that he hardly has time for swimming practice during the semester because of the massive amount of required studying. The curriculum at American universities is similar to that of their Japanese counterparts: during the freshman and sophomore years, a student takes core, liberal arts classes and during the junior and senior years, he or she pursues specialized classes for his or her major. This similarity is natural, since after all, we Japanese adopted the American university system structure. The difference, however, is that in the U.S., one must complete four years study at a university before going on to medical or law school. A student can proceed smoothly if he or she acquires 12 to 17 credits per semester, but it is not an easy task to accomplish without failing even one credit.
A student with a poor attendance record will be failed mercilessly. In the American system, a student cannot hope to pass exams by borrowing and memorizing his or her classmates’ notebook at the last minute before an exam. At the same time simply attending all the classes is no guarantee, unfortunately, that you will pass a class. Professors and lecturers rarely teach classes in a relaxed, slow manner, making sure all the students are keeping pace. This means that students are burdened with long hours of preparation for their classes. To make things worse, studying textbooks is not sufficient: students usually need to refer to several books, not to mention heaps of additional assignments. Their assignments are also challenging, with the majority in the form of essays. On average, a student has to consult five or six relevant references to write an essay. As if that is not exhausting enough, a student has a couple of exams each week without exception. The question remains: do Ivy League students study hard spontaneously or because they have no other choice? Regardless, no Ivy Leaguer can get away from studying rigorously and it is a fact that they have to confront.
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Play hard… Since being friendly and sociable are characteristics of paramount importance in the U.S., a socially inept student will be stigmatized as a social failure and ostracized by his fellow Ivy Leaguers. Being an Ivy Leaguer requires being approachable and being able to be “good company.” When with male friends, male students may go on drinking sprees, which although usually tempered, sometimes involve the students bingeing to the point of unconsciousness. When together, the male students also engage in discussions that would be off-limits if women were present. On the other hand, when with women, they turn into complete gentlemen and act like women-worshipping, medieval knights with grace and manners. They can talk about any subject and they can surf, twist, and even waltz on the dance floor. In addition to having a driver’s license, they ski well, ride horses, and can sail a yacht. Thus they literally have to be all-around players.
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“He is a bookworm and a total bore at a party.” With a reputation like that, a student will forever be regarded as an outcast. Despite the motto, “play hard,” students are hardly granted any chance for fun during the week. During a semester, their humble time of fun means between Friday afternoon and Monday evening. Under such restricted conditions, students are challenged to skillfully shuffle between parties, watching sporting events, and going on dates. Once the semester is over, however, the student is a free man. No one can reprimand him for having a bit of fun in the name of being a rash youth. Sound body Above, I described how an Ivy Leaguer’s ideal lifestyle is to study hard and play hard. Managing both, however, is an extremely formidable challenge. It is, therefore, essential that an Ivy Leaguer has a robust and healthy body that can endure a demanding lifestyle. Without it, one cannot survive the constantly competitive working environment. A fragile, twiggy physique is far from the ideal image of an Ivy Leaguer. Think about this: to begin with, the name “Ivy Leaguer” comes from an American football league. What is so fun about watching bony, flyweight or bantamweight-class football players wearing exaggerated shoulder pads scurrying about on the football field? American football is about bulky, beefy guys over 200 pounds tackling one another in hand-to-hand combat.
After visiting all the Ivy League universities, we noticed that without exception, all had impressive athletic facilities. In addition to facilities that cater to various sports, all of them were equipped with a variety of recreational facilities as well. Here is my interpretation: the reason why physical education is equally important as intellectual training (this is the true reason why a sound body is necessary) is that in intellectual pursuits one will never know his limits, but one can in physical activities. Examples of this are: training to the point of collapsing in the heat of summer or rowing a boat against the current until you can no longer row. Only those with a sound body have the privilege of being able to challenge and push his limits. Ivy Leaguers don’t relish smoking or drinking during their teenage years. Such activities bring only harm and no benefit whatsoever. Drinking or smoking are not proof of manliness.
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Sound mind An ideal Ivy Leaguer has a sound mind and body. It is not easy, however, to explain what a sound mind is about, so let me take two Ivy Leaguers as examples: Archie Roberts and Bill Bradley. Archie Roberts is a renowned quarterback who was a member of the Columbia University football team during the 1964 – 1965 season. His physique was rather small, a feature that made him conspicuous among the other, massive football players. The story doesn’t end here: it is noteworthy that he graduated with honors this June and is planning to attend medical school this fall. In the competitive environment of Ivy League universities, achieving outstanding results while playing sports is a superhuman feat. Such an accomplishment proves that he is a well-rounded, model Ivy Leaguer blessed with a sound body and mind. Studying in England for two years on a Rhodes scholarship is comparable, and perhaps even more noteworthy than receiving a Fulbright fellowship in Japan. Bill Bradley is a recipient of the Rhodes scholarship. In addition to being an outstanding basketball player at Princeton, Bill Bradley is, both in name and in fact, a star. He has several times been selected as an All American and came to Japan for last year’s Tokyo Olympics as a player on the U.S. basketball team. Needless to say, he is one of the most brilliant students affirmed by the fact that he has been selected as one of the recipients of the Rhodes scholarship. Using an old expression, you may call him a master of scholarship and the martial arts. Outside the university, he endeavors at educating youngsters
by teaching them at church Sunday schools. It would be an exhaustive task to describe each and every Ivy Leaguer’s lifestyle. Here I would simply like to emphasize that Ivy Leaguers are filled with dreams and hopes and are striving to become fine adults. John F. Kennedy The most famous of Ivy Leaguers, undoubtedly known to all, is former president John F. Kennedy. He seems to have been an Ivy Leaguer who lived the ideal of “study hard, play hard.” During his years at Harvard, he was a diligent student and a socialite. He was a football player and an avid student of history. Though I will leave it up to the historians to evaluate his accomplishments to mankind, I take this opportunity to stress that he certainly lived the ideal life of an Ivy Leaguer.
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And the history repeats itself As always, The Stars and Stripes will be hoisted on Ivy League campuses tomorrow morning and flutter above the Ivy Leaguers. Ivy League universities welcome freshman in September and send off graduating students in June. Each of the required tasks at the university may seem insignificant, but they are done in pursuit of a grand goal: the diploma. Young Ivy Leaguers struggle through their college years to obtain it. College is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Leading a college life in one’s thirties would be way too late. Ivy Leaguers live every moment of their college days in an effort to make it the best and the most rewarding time of their lives.
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Vehicles for Ivy Leaguers
Classic cars Seeing a classic car slowly cruising between ivy-covered brick school buildings is a picturesque sight. University students, Ivy Leaguers in particular, are passionate about classic cars. Ford Model T’s and Ford Model A’s are some of the most popular. A Packard is a guaranteed magnet for Ivy Leaguers. The owner of the car can proudly cruise around, showing it off to others. That reminds me: at Dartmouth College, I saw a student who had an old fire truck. He polished it impeccably and displayed it in front of his dorm. Who knows if it still works. The students cherish and treat their good old vehicles with much affection and respect. Perhaps Japanese drivers, who religiously buy a new car every year, can emulate the students? Ivy Leaguers carry on with their tradition of appreciating vintage things and I find it a typical Ivy attitude. Sports cars After classic cars, sports cars are the secondmost sought after vehicle, as is universally true in any country. As a matter of fact, there must be no youngster who dislikes sports cars. At Ivy League universities, British sports cars were most noticeable. MG’s — r anging from the TD to the MGB, and also the Triumph TR3 and TR4, are prevalent on Ivy League campuses. Some discerning car owners were even driving Morgan Plus Fours. I also noticed more than a few competition stripes (stripes running from the bonnet
Bicycles I had been under the impression that Ivy Leagues and bicycles come hand in hand. As if to support my hypothesis, I found that a good number of Ivy Leaguers do ride bicycles on campus. A bicycle is indeed one of the most indispensable articles in their lives. To begin with, Ivy League campuses are vast and all the students go to classes from dormitories that are located on or near campus. To them, bicycles are far handier than cars for get-
to the roof as seen on race cars), painted on cars, as is the trend in Japan recently. The latest trend in competition stripes are ones that run diagonally.
ting around. At some campuses, cars are even prohibited. Thus, a bicycle is ever so important to the students. Looking at the Ivy Leaguers who briskly cycle around the green grass of their campuses, I admired their youthful vigor, which is in contrast to feeble Japanese university students. Old bikes It appears that bicycles are getting popular again in Japan. Bicycles are a suitable vehicle for students of limited means. One may assume that a bicycle is a popular vehicle mainly among junior and high school students rather than university students. On the contrary, a bicycle is not a form of transportation that caters only to children. In the U.S., it is used by wide range of people from Ivy Leaguers to adults. In the towns around Ivy League universities, middle-aged ladies and girls ride spotless, shiny bicycles. On campus, however, most of the bicycles that we saw looked battered. My guess is that they leave their bicycles outside, where they are rained upon and become rusty. I am starting to suspect that Ivy Leaguers are fond of a rough and uncouth style as was the case with Japanese high school students during the old, prewar system of education. This is why they unashamedly ride their shabby bicycle. They must consider a brand-new, sparkling bicycle as far from cool.
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College Fashion
A world called campus As a Japanese man, I struggle to conceive of “campus wear” or “college fashion.” It is because we Japanese have been put under the spell of having to wear school uniforms. Japanese students are confined to wearing a standup collar jacket, day in and day out for many
years. Having come from such a background, even scratching the surface of the general campus wear and college fashion is, undeniably, a daunting task. Given that Ivy Leaguers’ days start and end on campus, it is inevitable that they end up wearing a variety of clothes. To them, their
campus is their home, school, and universe, so to speak. It is on their campus that the tradition of college fashion continues to live. Freedom and rules During our trip, the sheer variety of Ivy Leaguers’ spontaneous fashion never ceased to
intrigue us. It would be quite a challenge to find them in exactly identical clothes. Having witnessed their freestyle and diverse fashion on campus, I was struck by how differently businessmen dress in town. I then started to appreciate factors that make up a student-like style in seemingly spontaneous college fashion.
Students do have an unwritten dress code that they faithfully observe, despite the seemingly disorderly manner in which they dress. On campus, students wear what their hearts desire as long as it does not interfere with their studying. Once out in society, however, they follow universally accepted fashion requirements. This summarizes the Ivy Leaguers’ attitude towards dressing. Come to think of it, this means that a completely opposite dressing theory is applied to Japanese students. In the Japanese academic regime, students are not granted an opportunity to learn what dressing through life is about. Rough and uncouth — an Ivy League style A college cap with holes worn over cropped hair, a worn-out manteau, and a worn-out hand towel — these are essential accessories of a tra-
ditional Japanese student with his rough and uncouth style. I was delightfully pleased to discover that there was a similar trend in a gloriously modern country like the U.S. A student proudly wearing a sweater with holes, one in a prized pair of shabby sneakers, one posing with a bumbershoot so worn-out to the point it is seethrough…I often came across Ivy Leaguers like these and found myself almost bursting out with laughter. Mind you, they don’t appear pathetic and miserable. Rather, they seem to have that style by choice, and are enjoying it. There is one striking difference in the rough and uncouth styles embraced both by Japanese students and Ivy Leaguers: the latter, no matter how nonchalant about the way they dress, never appear filthy. The American style of rough and uncouth is about having a bit of fun and it is not a consequence of genuine poverty that is typical amongst students in Japan. That is exactly the essence of Ivy Leaguers attitude toward fashion.
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Differences in seasons and individuals One of the characteristics of the Japanese fashion culture is that we change clothes every season. Coming from such a tradition, I was perplexed by the ways in which some Ivy League students dressed without regard to season. For example on a rainy day on the Brown campus, a student was walking in a T-shirt and shorts next to another one in a duffle coat. On a sunny day in June, I saw a group of Ivy Leaguers all wearing ski parkas. The sight made me stop for a moment to ponder the season. It was a surreal sight, as if I was watching a scene from a movie. I once stopped a smartly-dressed student and asked for his insight about this rather incomprehensible phenomenon, only to be told, with a questioning look, “How do you expect me to tell whether those students are feeling cold or hot?” Fair enough. It is totally up to an individual to decide what to wear. There is no such rule that stipulates dressing light in a hot season. Let’s just assume that the students who were wearing duffle coats and ski parkas had been feeling cold on that particular day and leave it at that. Barefoot and its rationality Thorough rationality can often be observed in the way Ivy Leaguers think. Ivy Leaguers’ rationalistic approach applies to the way they dress, too. On a rainy day, for example, a number of students rushing from one classroom to another are barefoot on the grounds that such a choice is rational. Chances are, you wear rain shoes only on occasional rainy days, so you might as well be rational about it and not bother wearing anything at all.
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Here is another example. I was under the impression that a short-sleeved sweatshirt was in fashion. It later turned out, however, that their sleeves had been cut off with scissors. I also noticed a pair of Bermuda shorts with exceptionally thick material and later learned that they were, again, a pair of cut-off white jeans. A student wearing a sweatshirt with cut-off sleeves explained, “I figured it would be too hot in these when the summer comes.” He has a point: it is nonsense to keep a long-sleeved shirt sitting in your drawer unworn for many months. These episodes represent Ivy Leaguers’ endearingly rational attitude towards dressing. They even dare to cut off the hem of a new pair of jeans for the sake of fashion. Wannabe Ivy Leaguers in other countries like Japan could learn a great deal from them. Love for alma mater through the school color Dartmouth’s green, Brown’s brown, Yale’s famous Yale blue, Harvard’s well-known crimson… all Ivy League universities have a school color. I was impressed by the Ivy Leaguers’ affinity for their school’s color. At Dartmouth and in the neighborhood surrounding its campus, for example, the school green was present in students’ clothes, a blazer jacket worn by an old gentleman chatting on the sidewalk, a window frame in a coffee shop, and even on a baby buggy pushed by a young mother. At Brown, sweaters and shorts in the brown school color were worn by an overwhelming number of students. It was quite a spectacular sight. In the U.S., there is no compulsory school uniform, nor school hat or pin with a school
emblem as there is in Japan. Still, the pride of being an Ivy Leaguer is the driving force for them to voluntarily wear school colors here, there, and everywhere. Varsity jackets prevail With the summer vacation approaching, I spotted a number of Ivy Leaguers wearing jackets. The ratio of jacket wearers must become even higher during cooler times of the year. It is no surprise that they wear a functional varsity jacket during the week except for dates and parties on weekends. The jackets that they wear are not marked, however, by great varieties in design and color. The majority of the jackets are fairly basic in their designs and in the fabrics used to make them. The most popular jacket is a plain, light beige, cotton poplin, golf-type jacket. Varsity jackets are also popular. With these jackets, the sleeve color is different from that of the front and the back. It also usually has a school name emblazoned on the front or back. You often see these types of jackets on Ivy League campuses.
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A day for a tie On one Sunday, I noticed that the majority of students on campus were wearing a necktie. During the week, Ivy Leaguers seldom wear ties, a fashion choice that does not, however, apply to Sundays. The students that I saw were the ones who had just come out of a campus chapel after a morning service. Although they all wore a tie without exception, none of them wore a suit or even a blazer; one of them was wearing a pair of Bermuda shorts and a cotton jacket; another one — rather dowdy-looking — sported a tweed jacket and a pair of jeans. Their necktie fashion thus comes in a variety of ways. This spontaneity and diversity are key characteristics of student fashion in the U.S. Come the weekend, however, students strictly observe the weekend dress code and don a snappy tuxedo when they attend the evening coed parties. Ivy Leaguers, despite their weekday style, know when to get serious about fashion. Once a new trend of dark suits, for instance, hits Japan, the shallow-minded Japanese students will wear it literally everywhere from Ginza, to the classroom or even at parties. I strongly urge them to change such an attitude and welcome more fashion challenges. It is with my earnest wish that some day they will pursue great variety in fashion.
Boyfriends and girlfriends Most of the Ivy League universities are for men only and we rarely saw female students on Ivy campuses. Still, Brown University has an affiliated women’s college on the same campus and some universities have a counterpart women’s college located outside their campus. The female students I saw on these campuses usually came from such sister colleges. Looking at the female students, who were mostly dressed in a relatively plain and youthful way, there doesn’t seem to be a common student look. I might also add that I did not see any of them committing what would apparently have been a fashion faux pas of dressing in an extravagant way according to the latest fashion. Most of them were wearing quite basic garments — the kind you see at a clearance sales floor at a department store in Japan: predominantly, a cotton dress, a plain blouse, and a banal, mass-produced, pleated skirt. In sum, female university students seem to dress within their means, while maintaining a student-like, youthful style.
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Professors and the Madras checks Through a seemingly liberal fashion culture, students eventually gain the “fashion knowledge” to prepare for the real world. During their college careers, students look to professors as living examples of how a working person should dress. It is only normal that professors wear either a dark suit or a sport coat, since they consider the campus their workplace. On many older professors, a bow tie adds a traditional yet appropriate touch to the scene at Ivy League universities. On the other hand, I caught sight of a professor wearing a bright colored sport jacket in Madras check. You never know, he might be the trendsetter for the coming years in American campus fashion.
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Ivy Wardrobe Directory
Item
The basic wardrobe of Ivy Leaguers: required quantity and details
Suits
Two — Dark and light. Select from the following: a herringbone in dark or medium gray, worsted in navy or olive green, shark skin or flannel in gray.
Sports jackets
Trousers
Two — A dark navy blazer is a must. Another in either plain or herringbone tweed. Six to eight pairs — A flannel pair in dark gray and medium gray, a hopsack pair in gray or olive, three or four cotton trousers, not to mention a pair of corduroy, and also a thick-cotton weather cloth.
Ties
Pajamas
Twelve — Rep tie: in particular, in regimental stripes. Select a few from wool ties with a fine pattern, silk ties in classic patterns, etc. A black, knit tie is a must. All of them should be slightly wide. Two to four — In wash-and-wear cotton. (Warm materials such as jersey or flannel for colder regions).
Robes
One or two — Choose your favorite design and color from wash-and-wear cotton or lightweight wool.
Shoes
Four pairs — Cordovan plain toe or saddle shoes in black and brown, classic loafers, boat shoes or sneakers, brown boots.
Overcoat
One — Choose the one that suits your taste from the following: a Chesterfield in dark gray or olive green, a polo coat in camel, a worsted, tweed, or reversible bal collar coat.
Raincoat
One — A raglan-sleeve, poplin, or Burberry coat in beige or olive brown, or a bal collar one. A detachable liner comes in handy.
Socks
Twelve pairs — Classic, long socks in dark colors. Several wool pairs, cotton in white and other colors, black or other dark-colored nylon socks.
Outerwear
Four — A beige golf jacket with poplin, a quilted ski parka, brownish duffel coat, a thick, wool shirt-jacket in large checkers or navy, and a wool, zip-up jacket.
Belts
Three to four — A leather belt with a slightly-bulky buckle, a sporty one in Madras check or in corduroy.
Hats
Three — A center-crease hat in olive green or gray, a poplin or Madras check rain hat, and a knit ski cap.
Scarf
One or two — lightweight wool scarf, one in prints, etc.
Knitwear
Three to four — Made from Shetland wool, lamb’s wool, camel, or mohair. Crewneck, V-neck, cardigan, etc. Add a ski sweater and a turtleneck in cotton knit jersey.
Dress shirts
Twelve to fourteen — A button-down Oxford shirt in white, blue, and stripes, and a button-down broadcloth shirt in white, blue, cream, or stripes. Also, add a few styles with buttonless, button-down, and pinhole collars.
Sports shirts
Three to six — Thick stripes. Solid-dark or Madras-check button-down sports shirts. Polo shirts in different colors.
Formal wear
One — Shawl collar or semi-peaked lapel, natural-shoulder, satin jacket in black. A white shawl collar for spring and summer.
Gloves
Two pairs — One dressy and one warm pair.
Shorts
More than three pairs — Choose from ones with a print such as Madras check, poplin material in beige or olive, thick white cotton, etc.
Accessories
An odd vest and a classical tie clasp, colored pin, studs, and cuff links, one or two ascots, a few silk pocket handkerchiefs for formal occasions, a toilet set, a clothing brush, a shoe polishing kit, twelve white handkerchiefs, room slippers, shower slippers, etc. Source: Men’s Wear
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Yale University’s 20-Article Dress Code
Not every Ivy League university has a dress code stipulated by the school’s administration. Each school does, however, have a dress study group that gives advice to freshman. Here are the 20 actual articles of the Yale University dress code. The 20-Article Yale University Dress Code 1. You can dress casually on campus, now that you spend most of your time in class or at the dormitory. You must try, however, to dress appropriately as a student. 2. Recommended garments are as follows: pairs of cotton trousers in white, cream, and solid blue, respectively. Other important items are striped, button-down shirts, a ski parka, penny loafers, and sneakers. 3. For formal occasions (except for dates), you need a dark-colored suit. 4. When going on a date or to restaurants, wear a sport jacket and a tie. 5. Essential sport jackets include: tweed herringbones and a blazer in either navy or camel. 6. Trousers can come in any material, but avoid those that are too tight fitting. 7. The primary material for trousers is grey flannel. Make sure that you also have pairs in olive and black. 8. A tie can be colorful, but select basic designs such as classic prints or regimental stripes. 9. A black, and therefore versatile, knit tie is essential.
10. Be aware that the most popular sweater is a crewneck, made of Shetland wool. 11. Although there is no designated color for a sweater, choose a mixed-yarn of charcoal grey or olive. The lighter the tone of grey and blue, the better. 12. Ensure that you wear a sweater of basic design and color when you wear it under a sport jacket. 13. Try to choose a cardigan with an orthodox style. 14. Unless it is extremely cold, a pale beige coat should be enough to get through most seasons. 15. A dark-colored wool topcoat is essential for going on a date in winter or for formal occasions. 16. A beltless polo coat is useful for formal occasions. In particular it is worn by the majority of spectators at football games. 17. A varsity jacket is one of the most popular garments on campus. But follow common sense and steer clear from jackets with excessively elaborate designs or ones that feature flashy patterns. 18. Other items that can come in handy are hooded jackets, such as a quilted ski parka (for winter use), and a yacht parka in solid cotton or Indian Madras check. 19. You can go anywhere with a pair of penny loafers. An additional pair of loafers in plain tow or with wing tips will also prove useful. In addition to a staple pair in black, try to add pairs in brown and tan. 20. Cotton socks for daily wear can also come in pink or blue.
College Concerts
All American university students, including Ivy Leaguers, love music. Schools often organize various events in an effort to curry favor with their students. Some of the more popular events are college concerts, which are held at least a few times each semester. Popular singers or bands are often invited. For students, this is a priceless opportunity, since they have access to a live concert with a big student discount instead of paying a much higher price elsewhere. On the day of the concert, the auditorium is filled and the audience gets in full swing. As far as the performers are concerned, they find it quite rewarding to play in front of an enthusiastic student crowd, rather than an uninterested, indifferent one. Different from their usual commercial events, performances at universities have few restrictions. The performers
make the most of this opportunity and gladly play less-known or challenging tunes that they do not have the opportunity to play at other events. Furthermore, an entertainer can use a gig at a university to promote him or herself to the students. Even Frank Sinatra, who was notorious for his reluctance to play live events, asserted that he wished to continue to perform at college concerts. This is how important they are. Indeed some of the more renowned artists such as The Brothers Four, Dave Brubeck, and Paul Winter see college concerts as mainstay events.
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Ivy League and Sports
American football With its name originating from a football league, the Ivy League and football are inseparable. The football season runs from September to November. The games are held in a league system and thus all Ivy League universities play one another during the season. In recent years, Dartmouth and Princeton have been dominant. Since the Ivy League once used to be synonymous with powerful football teams, it is a disappointing fact
that the football prowess of today’s Ivy League universities is inferior to that of other collegiate football powerhouses. The game between Harvard and Yale may be compared to the Waseda-Keio baseball game held in the Tokyo Big Six University Baseball League in Japan. The Harvard-Yale game is held alternately in Cambridge or New Haven. With its long tradition, the Harvard-Yale game usually attracts around 100,000 spectators.
Basketball The basketball season begins right around the end of the football season and continues until February the following year. Probably because there are only five players on a team, different from football, Ivy League basketball teams are more competitive in games with non-Ivy universities. Ivy League basketball players often achieve outstanding results and many have been selected as All Americans or chosen to be members of
the U.S. Olympic team. During the season, an average of two games are scheduled per week at each university. As they are held in gymnasiums, basketball games draw smaller crowds than baseball games. Even so, the gymnasiums usually fill up with excited fans. The last league champion was Princeton.
Crew With the exception of the Naval Academy in Annapolis having probably the most famous, non-Ivy League squad, the Ivy League crew
teams are legendary both for their tradition and their performance. They also continue to produce teams that represent the U.S. in world competitions. Blessed by being on campuses situated near lakes and rivers where they can practice rowing and racing, Ivy League crew teams are quite formidable. This year in particular, under training by Barry Parker, the young crew at Harvard achieved a convincing victory. Although it lost to the Vesper Crew from Philadelphia at the Olympic Trials last year, the Harvard crew subsequently achieved steady progress and has been winning races by several boat lengths. They turned in a solid performance at the Henley Royal Regatta, a prestigious world rowing event in Britain.
Lacrosse One may wonder what association Native Americans have with the Ivy League. Their biggest connection comes in lacrosse. Having been invented by Native Americans, this is one of the most strenuous and demanding competitive sports and every Ivy League university has a team. The season runs from spring through summer. Playing lacrosse must be ideal training for football players during the off-season: there are normally several of them on a team. Since lacrosse is only played on the East Coast, it is difficult to compare the Ivy League performance with that other American universities. Teams in the southeast of the U.S. centering around Baltimore are particularly strong, and all the Ivy League lacrosse teams are desperately training to beat them.
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Ivy League Neighborhoods
New England The stretch of land on the East Coast where many of the eight Ivy League universities are located is called New England, which is the oldest region of the U.S. The people there are proud of the historic buildings and traditions of their cities. Some West Coast residents may stereotype them as conservative and stubborn. I could be wrong, but the people of New England seemed to be flattered by such a reputation. The New England region is well known for its spectacular green in the spring and red leaves in the fall. Scenery consisting of brick houses and stands of trees look more English than American. This is the Ivy Leaguers’ blessed environment where they lead their academic lives. Sundays in Boston Of all the cities in New England, Boston is definitely the first city that springs to mind. Without question, Boston is indeed an old city that quietly boasts good, old traditions. Most of the buildings are made of bricks and have a strong resemblance to a charming, old town in England. The suburbs of Boston are tranquil, exclusive residential areas, and are characterized by classic houses sitting in spacious yards. It was Sunday when I visited there. I came across a string of families walking to church. Without exception, the fathers wore an Ivy-style dark suit and their wives a hat with beautiful flowers. Even a small boy was dressed up like a gentleman, wearing a navy blazer with an emblem on its chest pocket, a pair of cotton pants and,
of course, a tie. Watching him walking with his parents with flowers in his hand brought a heartwarming sensation to me. College shops The city of Cambridge, where Harvard University is located, is situated adjacent to Boston. It is a peaceful and calm city, just like Boston. As you exit the Harvard Square subway station, you will find yourself right in front of the Harvard University campus. Located in the surrounding neighborhood are cozy college shops that cater to the students. The shops uniformly have a classic interior and their small establishments are looked after in a leisurely manner by one or two sales assistants at most. The shops carry quite an exquisite array of articles. Most of the shops I visited were promoting garments with Madras checks on them. Window displays are a critical element in their businesses and much effort has evidently been put toward them. Some displays include antique tools, and some use sports equipment as props for the clothes. The creativity exhibited in their window displays never ceased to fascinate our curious eyes. Co-op shops Every university has a co-op, located either on campus or nearby it. It is exactly like a school store that provides almost everything a student needs in his or her everyday life. In addition to books and textbooks, you can find a wide range of household articles here, along with sporting goods, and even clothes. Most of the co-ops carry every kind of apparel
that you can think of: even Ivy League underwear is available. All the co-ops offer standard, everyday merchandise; you will find nothing extraordinary or eccentric at an Ivy League co-op. What’s more, students benefit from the low co-op prices which are usually 20 to 30 percent below those of shops outside the university. Also, by flashing his or her student ID, they can shop tax-free. Ivy League alumni The end of a fun-filled university life means the beginning of the life in society. Just like any novice in the world, Ivy League graduates embark for the “real world” filled with dreams and hope. The majority of Ivy League graduates get a job in New York City. Needless to say, it is a gigantic city where all sorts of new challenges and adventures await. Ivy League alumni maintain strong ties, with many already established alumni helping their junior brethren find a good job. As in any other country, getting a job at a top-notch company is one thing, but the actual work is another. Choosing the right employer is a critical task, as a man’s life is profoundly affected by the work he does. New York Upon graduation, a much awaited, glorious new life begins in New York. Ivy League graduates have to realize that studying at their own pace in a refreshing, quiet environment while enjoying pastoral scenery is now a thing of the past. Every day is one of cut-throat competition. No more studying for exams, but you cannot redo a failure as you could in the past.
Once Ivy Leaguers start working, the way they dress changes dramatically. They are no longer allowed to stroll around in their old cotton trousers and sneakers. Instead, they have to wear dark suits and can no longer act like carefree students as they did in college. The city of New York is like an exhibition of mankind. People from every country you can think of live there. Ivy Leaguers, now released from their previous cocooned, student life, are mercilessly thrown into the raging waves of the
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“real world” before growing up to become fullfledged Ivy League alumni. Madison men The most glamorous spot in New York City is Madison Avenue. Madison Avenue’s closest Japanese equivalent would be the Marunouchi district in Tokyo. The two districts are similar in that they both are full of smartly-dressed businessmen dashing
between rows of impressive, high-rise buildings. The number of businessmen on Madison Avenue is probably a result of the fact that the offices of advertising agencies and broadcast stations are located nearby. All the people working in New York City fantasize about working at a modern office on Madison Avenue. Businessmen on Madison Avenue are nicknamed “Madison men” and they no doubt often
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talk about their work: fashion. Madison men are the first ones in the world who carried an attaché case and wore a center-creased, short brim hat. Brooks Brothers Brooks Brothers is a name that Ivy Leaguers become familiar with even during their university days. Their boutique is located on the corner of 44th Street and Madison Avenue. Its name requires no explanation here in Japan as well.
Having been established in 1818, Brooks Brothers is the oldest-standing brand in the U.S., both in name and in reality. The flagship store of Brooks Brothers is an imposing building consisting of seven floors. Each floor between the building’s first and fifth floors has a different theme and characteristic. The first floor offers all men’s clothing, the second floor custom made clothes, the third floor fabric and women’s merchandise, the fourth floor sells gifts, hats, and
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significant role in presenting the brand in an ever appealing manner.
bags, and the fifth floor has the university shop and boys’ shop. The classical, boutique interior includes elegantly displayed accessories strategically dotted here and there. Most sales assistants were older, and obviously had knowledge and expertise accumulated over many years. They treat customers courteously and waste no time. It was indeed a pleasant customer experience to shop there. The attraction of Brooks Brothers can be found not just in its products; the tasteful interior and outstanding sales assistants play a
J Press Across from the corner of Brooks Brothers on 44th Street, stands J Press, another brand synonymous with the Ivy League. Just like Brooks Brothers, J Press has boutiques near Ivy League universities, as if to imprint the brand’s existence into the minds of students while they are still in university. Once out in New York, former Ivy Leaguers subconsciously find themselves at Brooks Brothers or J Press boutiques. Their boutique is less than half the size of Brooks Brothers. With only two floors, it is nice and cozy. In contrast to its neighborhood competitor that seems to brandish tradition, J Press appears to be slightly more open-minded and incorporates new trends into its business approach. Such an element can be found here and there in their shop and in their display windows. Their displays are not as elaborate as those of Brooks Brothers. The merchandise is roughly the same as that of Brooks Brothers. J Press’ assortment is also centered around Ivy traditional and orthodox articles. I was under the impression that J Press targets a slightly younger consumer than Brooks Brothers.
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Fifth Avenue One cannot talk about fashion without referring to Fifth Avenue. Fifth Avenue is located next to Madison Avenue. It accommodates Tiffany & Co. (on the corner of 57th Street), fancy Saks Fifth Avenue, Dunhill, Finchley, and Lord & Taylor, to name a few of the celebrated shops and boutiques. Each boutique boasts its own creative, individualistic display, paying attention to details. In particular, Tiffany’s and Saks have extravagant presentations in their windows. The Roger Kent shop is a cozy, yet well-thought-out gem of a men’s boutique. Commercially shrewd Roger Kent, like Brooks Brothers and J Press, has branch boutiques deliberately placed on Ivy League campuses in an attempt to turn the students into its future customers. This confirms the fact that many Ivy Leaguers are well-born. Top brands in New York go so far as to open branch boutiques near Ivy League campuses in an effort to lure students.
English translation © 2010 powerHouse Cultural Entertainment, Inc. Photographs © 1965, 2006, 2010 Teruyoshi Hayashida Text © 1965, 2006, 2010 Shosuke Ishizu, Toshiyuki Kurosu, and Hajime (Paul) Hasegawa All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner in any media, or transmitted by any means whatsoever, electronic or mechanical (including photocopy, film or video recording, Internet posting, or any other information storage and retrieval system), without the prior written permission of the publisher. Published in the United States by powerHouse Books, a division of powerHouse Cultural Entertainment, Inc. 37 Main Street, Brooklyn, NY 11201-1021 telephone 212 604 9074 fax 212 366 5247 e-mail: takeivy@powerHouseBooks.com website: www.powerHouseBooks.com Originally published in Japanese on September 20, 1965 by Fujingaho sha, Tokyo, Japan. First English language edition, 2010 Library of Congress Conrol Number:
2010927883
Hardcover ISBN 978-1-57687-550-6 Printed and bound through Asia Pacific Offset Book design by Kazuhiro Ashizawa Illustrations by Kazuo Hozumi A complete catalog of powerHouse Books and Limited Editions is available upon request; please call, write, or visit our website. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed and bound in China
Teruyoshi Hayashida was born in the fashionable Aoyama District of Tokyo, where he also grew up. He began shooting cover images for Men’s Club magazine after the title’s launch. A sophisticated dresser and a connoisseur of gourmet food, he is known for his homemade, soy-saucemarinated Japanese pepper (sansho), and his love of gunnel tempura and Riesling wine.
Photographs by Teruyoshi Hayashida Text by Shosuke Ishizu, Toshiyuki Kurosu, and Hajime (Paul) Hasegawa Described by The New York Times as, “a treasure of fashion insiders,” Take Ivy was originally published in Japan in 1965, setting off an explosion of American-influenced “Ivy Style” fashion among students in the trendy Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. The product of four collegiate style enthusiasts, Take Ivy is a collection of candid photographs shot on the campuses of America’s elite, Ivy League universities. The series focuses on men and their clothes, perfectly encapsulating the unique student fashion of the era. Whether lounging in the quad, studying in the library, riding bikes, in class, or at the boathouse, the subjects of Take Ivy are impeccably and distinctively dressed in the finest American-made garments of the time.
Shosuke Ishizu is the representative director of Ishizu Office. Originally born in Okayama Prefecture, after graduating from Kuwasawa Design School he worked in the editorial division at Men’s Club until 1960 when he joined VAN Jacket Inc. He established Ishizu Office in 1983, and now produces several brands including Niblick. Toshiyuki Kurosu was raised in Tokyo. He joined VAN Jacket Inc. in 1961, where he was responsible for the development of merchandise and sales promotion. He left the company in 1970 and started his own business, Cross and Simon. After the dissolution of his brand, he began appearing on the legendary variety show Asayan on TV Tokyo as a regular and soon gained popularity. He is also an active writer and intellectual.
Take Ivy is now considered a definitive document of this particular style, and rare original copies are highly sought after by “trad” devotees worldwide. A small-run reprint was released in Japan in 2006 and sold out almost immediately. Now, for the first time ever, powerHouse Books is reviving this classic tome with an all-new English translation. Prep style has never been more popular, in Japan or stateside, proving its timeless and transcendent appeal. Take Ivy has survived the decades and is an essential object for anyone interested in the history or future of fashion.
Hajime (Paul) Hasegawa is from Hyogo Prefecture. After studying in the U.S., Hasegawa returned to Japan in 1963 to join VAN Jacket Inc. At VAN, he was responsible for advertising and PR. For the production of Take Ivy, Hasegawa was the main coordinator and interpreter on the ground. He has since held several managerial positions in Japan and abroad and currently serves as executive director for Cosmo Public Relations Corporation.
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