2022JULY-AUGUST
EnvironmentalpioneerreliesonGREENDYE Salessuccessofasolutionformoreefficiencyinwarppreparation Archromatobringoptimizedandsustainablesolutionstoanindustry
TrützschlerMan-MadeFiberspresentsOPTIMAsystemsforindustrialyarns GreatsuccessforLAIP,Italiandyeingmachinesproducer,atITMTurkey ClimateChangeandaSustainableGlobalTextileValueChain
Forward-thinkingandtransparentcommunicationkeepsLoepfeaheadindeliveryfidelity
HGH concludedwithan
India
RelianceIndustrieslaunchesworld’sfirstbiodegradablepolyesterRecronEcoGoldwithCiCLOfibretechnology TrustintheItemaRapierTechnology FlexibleAdvancedShuttlelessTechnology Manyvisitorsandin-depthconversations IndiaITME2022willofferunmatchedBusinessOpportunitiestotheExhibitors
DigitalizationandSustainabilitykeytoResiliencyforItalianTextileMachinerySector
all-timehighbusinessreportedbyover70%oftheexhibitors 09 10 11 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 24 25 26 28 29 30 31 32 34 35
Juniorengineerswithfocusonsustainability CosmoFilmsappointsJustinGlassasPresidentforNorthAmericaoperations
OneofGermany’smostinnovativesmallandmid-rangebusinesses CirculatingTextileWasteintoValue WorldwideShipmentsofNewTextileMachinery2021wereas HighorHigherthanPre-Pandemic
forhigherpowerefficiencyandlowerenergy consumptionineveryJacquardweavingmill
AEditorialsolution
TrützschlerpresentsT-SUPREMA-modernsolutionsforneedle-punchednonwovens
TextileIndustryhashugePotentialto GenerateJobsaswellasInvestment
07798189485
WhileinauguratingSIMATexfair2022,13th editioninits series, an international textile machinery, spares, accessories & services exhibition conducted by The Southern India Mills’Association (SIMA) at CODISSIA TradeFairComplex,Coimbatoreon25th June,2022,Shri GoyalemphasisedthattheCentreispromotingbothcotton and man-made textile sector so that it gets larger share of worldmarkettherebyincreasingjobsopportunitiesaswell “Inasinvestment.allsectors, we want to become a global industry. We want to capture the world market” he said adding on that under the guidance of PM, the Centre is working actively with different countries to finalise free trade agreement which will give zero duty access to textile sector in world market In his inaugural address, Shri Piyush Goyal appreciated the invention capabilities and entrepreneurial skills of Tamil Nadu especially the twin cities viz., HeCoimbatoreandTirupur.statedthatTamilNaduwouldbecomethelargesthubfor textiles, pumps, wet grinders, critical components manufacturing etc., in the world and boost the economic
TextilegrowthoftheNation.industryhas huge potential to generate jobs in coming years, said Union Minister ofTextiles, Commerce Industry and Consumer Affairs, Food & Public
Distribution,ShriPiyushGoyal.ShriGoyalhighlightedthevarious policy initiatives taken bytheGovernmentandthehardworkputinbytheindustry toachieve440billionUSdollarsexports. Hestatedthatthe countrywouldreach30trillioneconomyfromthelevelof3 trillioneconomyandthegovernmenthasbeenaggressively addressing all the structural issues including the tariff barriers,issuesintaxation,globalcompetitiveness,etc. He advisedallthestakeholdersinthevaluechaintostrivehard, standunitedandtherebybecomethelargestmanufacturing countryintheworld. Heinvitedalltheyoungandwomen entrepreneurs to come forward to make investments and HecontributeforthegrowthoftheNation.highlightedfromFarmtoFabric,
Fabric to Finished benefitandthatthemajorProducts,FinishedProductstoFashionproducts,Indiahasashareintheentirevaluechain.HesaidthatheadmiresentrepreneurialskillsofpeopleofCoimbatore.HesaidIndiahasalreadyfinalizedtwoFTAs-Australia&UAEnegotiatingwithUK,Canada&EU.TheFTAswillbusinesshubslikeCoimbatoreandTirupur.
10 JULY-AUGUST 2022
India,Pakistan,Bangladesh,Srilanka,Vietnam,Indonesia,Thailand, China,HongKong,USA,Germany,Spain,Italy,U.K.&France
weavingSX
Asolutionforhigherpowerefficiencyandlowerenergy consumptionineveryJacquardweavingmill StäubliatITM2022–UnveilofworldpremiereforsustainableJacquard
PROelectronicJacquardmachineSXPROProductlaunchceremonyatITM2022
11
Visitors to the Stäubli booth at ITM observe the new SX PRO Jacquard machine in combination with a Stäubliharnessatademonstrationstandanddiscover many other ingenious solutions to face challenging market and environmental demands, such as the air-jet,reliableshedhigh-speedmust5SAFIRS60automaticdrawing-inmachineoperatingacolourwarportheTIEPROtyingmachine,thenewhavetyingsolution,aswellastheS3000/S3200dobbyseriesforframeweaving.Theseformingmachinesarerenowedworldwideforshedformationathighestweavingspeeds,onwater-jetandrapierweavingmachines.
WEAVING
SX PRO Jacquard machine - a solution for higher power efficiency and lower energy consumption in everyJacquardweavingmill.Thisnewmodelamong thebroadrangeofStäubliJacquardweavingsolutions will seduce many mills with its incorporated proven technology of the predecessor Stäubli Jacquard machines as well as several innovations to reduce energy consumption: low-friction design of the MX PRO module, power supply fully integrated into the machine itself, and a new ventilation system with optimizedtemperaturemonitoring.Equippedwithup to 2,688 hooks, the SX PRO Jacquard machine is perfectly adapted to the needs of the Turkish market, wherematressticking,terrycloth,apparelfabricsand upholsteryfabricsareproduced.
Stäubli successfully launched its new SX PRO Jacquard machine on the first show day in Istanbul. Visitors and the media assisted when the Managing directorof StäubliTurkey, Mr Muzaffer Sinangiland the Stäubli Textile executive president, Mr Bertrand LeroyunveiledthisnewelectronicJacquardmachine loaded with state-of-the-art technology at the Stäubli ITMboothintheweavinghall.2022openeditsdoorsonJune14,2022.Stäubli, leading provider of shed forming solutions to the weavingindustry,unveiledaworldpremierrightafter the trade fair started: The new Stäubli SX PRO Jacquard machine. On this occasion, Stäubli invited one of its long-term customers Boyteks Tekstil, a machines.reliablepresentedBoyteksÖzgüninstalledincompanyamongthebiggestTurkishGroupsoperatingthetextilebusinessandhavingalreadysuccessfullytheSXPROJacquardmachine.Mr.BekirAldat,TechnicalDeputyGeneralManager-TekstilSan.VeTic.A.S.assistedtheevent,itsweavingmillsandtheimportanceofsolutions,andthebenefitsofthenewJacquard
JULY-AUGUST 2022
ROTAL, the site with the KARL MAYER Group’s denim center of excellence, has developed GREENDYE, a technology that offers both: Sustainability and at the same time more Theeconomicefficiencythanconventionalplants.innovationwaslaunchedin2019.Thefirst
The fully integrated denim manufacturer has written the topic of sustainability at the top of its corporate agenda. Already in 2015, a development and innovation center was established to promote ecological finishing processes. In 2017, NIEN HSING’s corporate policy committed to reducing its ecological footprint and using clean production technologiesforthispurpose.
The nitrogen atmosphere temporarily prevents the necessary oxidation of the indigo dye. In the NOX reactor,theindigodyehastimetocreateamoresolid physical bond into the fiber composite, adhere there
Withandbefixed.GREENDYE,indigodyeingistwotimescleaner and at the same time three times more efficient than with the processes of conventional equipment. The basis for the excellent performance is the use of nitrogen (NOX) technology to control the chemical dyeingprocess.
12
Acompanywithasenseofresponsibility
Jeans are the evergreens of the clothing industry, but areincreasinglycriticizedfortheirnegativeimpacton the environment. Manufacturers are looking for efficient as well as green production technologies for theindigofabric-andtheyhavefoundthematKARL
sale followed this year. The premiere machine goes to Taiwan,totheinnovativeglobalplayerNIENHSING.
KARLMAYER.MAYER
EnvironmentalpioneerreliesonGREENDYE
Tripling of dyeing efficiency, halving of resource consumption In warp preparation, the environmentally conscious denim player aims to improve its eco balance, especially with KARLMAYER’s GREENDYE unit. “We got to know the pilot plant at KARL MAYER ROTALandstudieditsoperationindetailintermsof output,costsandsustainability.Theresultsconvinced us.”saysChairmanChen,ChaoKuo.
TECHNOLOGY
TheNOXreactorofGREENDYE NIENHSINGbuysthefirstGREENDYEunitfromKARLMAYER
Rolemodelforthesector
agenciesChina,USA,Today,bringproductsclientsKARLToemploysalmost9,500people.Themanufacturer’sensurethesuccessofitsinternationalcustomers,MAYERhasalwaysbeeneagertoprovideitswiththebesteconomicalandtechnicalandservicesandtoofferinnovationswhichfreshimpetustothetextileworld.thegroupofcompanieshassubsidiariesintheinEngland,India,Italy,HongKong,Japan,BangladeshandSwitzerlandaswellasallovertheworld. 13
Fewerdyeingbathsalsomeanshorterdyeingsections. Thedifferenceinlengthistwo-thirdsandreducesthe
AboutKARLMAYER
KARLcustomersandbusinesspartners.MAYERisaninternational group of companies with strong roots in the textile machinery building. The group of companies offers perfect solutions for the fields of warp knitting, flat knitting, technical textiles, warp preparation and digitization. For the section of warp preparation for weaving, the KARL MAYER Group offers sizing and assembling machines, beaming and direct beaming machines, sectional warpers, warp sampling machines, denim dyeingunitsandcreels.Thecompanyisglobalmarket leaderinitsproductsegments. waste optimizes not only the environmental balance but also the production cost in indigo dyeing. In addition, the operating costs are extremely low. Compared to traditional indigo dyeing systems, the GREENDYE system requires less space due to its shorter design, less maintenance, less time for operationandlesssparepartsforthesameoutput.
NIENHSINGisaglobaldenimplayerheadquartered in Taiwan with additional locations in Mexico, Leshoto and Vietnam. The company was founded in 1988 and has been continuously expanded. Today, it
With more than 3,100 employees worldwide, the international organization produces in its main markets,sothatKARLMAYERisalwaysclosetoits customersandtheirneeds. AboutNIENHSING
range of services includes product development and thetextilefieldsofspinning,warppreparation,fabric production, finishing and making-up. The company operateswithtextileandapparelbusinessunits.Sales amounttoabout280millionUSD.In2021,thetextile segment generated the most revenue, accounting for 52% of sales. Growth here compared to 2020 was around42%.Theapparelbusiness,ontheotherhand, showedaslightdownwardtrendofaroundminus6%. The company’s products go mainly to American Themarket.Germanfamily-runenterprisewassetupin1937 and since then financial independence and economic sustainability have always been important aspects of the company’s corporate strategy. As long-standing and reliable partner with many years of professional experience and high quality level in all areas, KARL MAYER supports the competitiveness of its
developed.materials,samplesdenimthecontinueindustry,”significantstandardscansuccess.KARLStefanopossible.-sodaAfoamingsystemdyeingFurtherscheduleddeliveryadvantagesFromprocesses.threeinItchemicalamountofyarnwaste.Thereductionofdailywaterandconsumptionaswellaswastewaterandyarnisalsopossibletoincreasetheindigoconcentrationthedyebath.Theseeffectsenabletheyarntoabsorbtimesmoredyethanincaseofconventionalnextyear,NIENHSINGwillbenefitfromtheoftheGREENDYEtechnology.TheofthefirstmachineonthemarketisforNovember2022.advantagesresultfromthedesignofthevats.Ahigh-flow,low-speedindigocirculationandadesignthatavoidsturbulenceandsurfacesignificantlyreducechemicalconsumption.savingofupto50%ofhydrosulphiteandcaustic–themainenvironmentalpollutersoftheprocessandthusahalvingofthegraywaterfootprintisAgazzi,ChiefofTechnologyandProductsatMAYERROTALisdelightedwiththesales“WithourGREENDYEline,NIENHSINGsetcompletelynewsustainabilityandefficiencyindenimproduction.Wehopetoseeimpetusforchangethroughoutthesaystheindigodyeingspecialist.HewilltosupportNIENHSINGwithhisteamandpossibilitiesofferedbyKARLMAYERROTAL’scenterofexcellence.InMezzolombardo,canbemadewiththecustomersspecificstaffcanbetrained,andjointprojectscanbe
A reduction of 50% is also possible in the final washing water consumption. Thanks to the NOX reactor, the GREENDYE system requires only three dyeing baths instead of nine - like conventional systems - to achieve the same indigo dye shade, with correspondingly lower water consumption. In addition,thewashingprocessismoreeconomicaldue tothehigherfixationoftheindigodyeonthefiber.
TECHNOLOGY
Salessuccessofasolutionformoreefficiencyinwarppreparation
14
The yarns are guided to the machine with uniform, constant tension. Here, the second dividing system cutsthewarpyarnsofthefinishedbatchattheinfeed and knots on the warp yarns of the new batch - each withhighprecisionandfullyautomatically.Theactual batchchangecanthusbereducedto90seconds.What appears to be so simple is the result of the precise andclampinginteractionofwellthought-outcomponentssuchasthedeviceforstringformationbeforeknottingthepneumaticsolutionforsuckingintheyarn ®ends.ThenewLINK-MATIC systemcandevelopits fullpotentialinconjunctionwithanmoveablecreel.
Inaddition,lessyarnwasteisproduced.Upto600m, onindigodyeingrange,ofunusableyarnmaterialcan be saved with each batch – while at the same time requiringlessmanpower.Duringbatchchanges,only one operator is required to prepare the warper beams forentryintothemachine.Afullyautomaticknotting unit couples the warp yarns of the new batch to the yarnsofthebatchjustfinished. ®LINK-MATIC makes it possible to automate the ® ®batchchangeonthePRODYE-SandPROSIZE with two subsystems. The first subsystem focuses on feeding the yarn sheets of the new batch from the warper beams to the infeed of the machine.The yarn
®
ContinuousprocesseswithLINK-MATIC
®ThefullyautomaticknottingunitontheLINK-MATIC system
LotustexTextileinvestsinKARLMAYER’sfirstLINK-MATIC systemforautomaticbatch ®changeonPRODYE-Sslasherindigodyerange
JULY-AUGUST 2022
savingstaketransportHehomogeneousoperatorsourcesprocessunderthreadedofmaterialisguidedtoitsdestinationinthelowersectionthewarperbeamframe.Previously,ithadtobebyhand,usuallybytwoskilledworkers,thebottomcover.Thelengthy,complicatedresultedinabatchofwasteandnumerousoferror.Withthenewsolution,onlyonefixesthewarpyarnsofawarperbeamindistributionbyaclampinbeamlength.thenguidestheclampdownwardandhooksitintoachainoneachside.Thecirculatingchainscareofthetransporttothemachine.Thetimeareimmense.What’smore,thequalityisright.
LotustexnewacquisitionisNovember2022.Textilehasrecognizedall these advantages for itself. The Egypt-based denim manufacturer, which was only founded in 2019, was the first company to invest in the innovative LINK-MATIC® system in recent months in order to optimize the performance of its PRODYE®-S sizing machine. Especially for its activities in the fashion sector, Lotustex Textile expects a significantly higher flexibilityandcostreduction.Thedeliverydateforthe
®KARL MAYER has placed its first LINK-MATIC system on the market. The sophisticated automation solution considerably simplifies the batch change on indigo and sizing machines, thus increasing productivity. An increase of up to 30 % is possible, dependingonthenumberofbatchchangesperday.
TECHNOLOGY
®
Archromatobringoptimizedandsustainablesolutionstoanindustry
Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towardssustainablesolutions,andBaldwin,aleading global manufacturer and supplier of precision spray systems and technology for sustainable textile manufacturing, announce a new collaboration to optimize performance and resource saving in the finishingdepartment.
15
Archroma and Baldwin are currently testing Archroma’s finishing products and systems, such as ®the soon-to-be-launched PFC-free* Smartrepel Hydro SR for water-based soil repellence, as well as metal and inorganic particle-free antimicrobial technologies like Sanitized T 20-19 and TH 15-14, which will be launched at the upcoming Techtextil 2022. The first test results was available for discussions with both partners at Techtextil at their respective booths. Michael Schuhmann, Business Development Manager for Finishing, at Archroma, comments: “We are very excited to collaborate with Baldwin, a company who shares our vision that it is possible to create textile fabrics and articles that are saferfortheuserandbetterforourplanet.Becauseit’s our nature.” Rick Stanford, Baldwin Technology’s Vice President of Global Business Development for Textiles said, “No question Archroma is one of the most recognized global suppliers of specialty chemistry for textile. We are honored to partner with Archroma to bring optimized and sustainable solutionstoanindustrythatisseriousaboutprotecting consumersandreducingitsenvironmentalimpact.”
Archroma and Baldwin are collaborating in multiple projects that combine Archroma’s most sustainable product innovations with Baldwin’s Texcoat G4. TexCoat G4 is a non-contact spray technology for textilefinishingandremoistening,designedtoallowa controlled and optimal coverage of the exact amount of finish chemistry for reaching specific characteristicsofthefabric.Thesystemcanbeusedto reduce water consumption by as much as 50%
TECHNOLOGY
applicationproductivityfunctionality,tomanufacturersThecomparedtotraditionalpaddingapplicationprocesses.twocompaniesaimtosupporttextileintheirdevelopmentprojects,targetingimprovetheirproductsafety,performanceandwhileatthesametimemaximizingtheandresourceutilizationofthefinishingprocess.
ArchromaandBaldwintoCollaborateforOptimizedPerformanceandResource SavinginTextileFinishing
JULY-AUGUST 2022
Trützschler Nonwovens & Man-Made Fibers GmbH startedacooperationwiththeItaliantextilemachinery manufacturer Texnology S.r.l. in the field of needlepunching technology. With immediate effect, the companies will offer complete production lines for needle-punched nonwovens under the name of TSUPREMA. “WithTexnology, we have an innovativeand reliable partner at our side. The company already sets an important course in the field of needle-punching machines through excellent and patented solutions,” says Klaus Wolf, Managing Director of Trützschler Nonwovens. “Trützschler Nonwovens is returning to needle-punching solutions. In the partnership, we are able to serve this interesting market segment with precisely fitting production lines.WithT-SUPREMA
increaselikeCollaboratingwithawell-known,globalizedcompanyTrützschlerNonwovenswillsignificantlyourtargetgroup.”
Web bonding with steel needles represent the largest
Nicola and Paolo Olivo, owners of Texnology S.r.l., also see the joint activities as an opportunity: “Texnology has developed its own needling technology with patents and profound know-how.
completed,Aneedle-punchingbecomesaseasyasneverbefore”firstjointprojecthasalreadybeensuccessfullyimplementedandputintooperation.
cooperation.experienceTrützschlerperformancemadeNeedle-punchingresultfinishingmedia.durabletechnicalTheproductionprocessinthedrylaidnonwovenssegment.areasofapplicationarepredominantlyofanature,withthelargestapplicationsbeinggeotextiles,automotivetextilesandfilterThehighadaptabilityoftheneedlingandprocessesaswellasthebroadmaterialbaseinalargenumberofdifferentendproducts.issuitableforawiderangeofman-andnaturalfibersincludingmineralandhigh-fibers.NonwovenscontributesitsmanyyearsofinfiberpreparationandwebformingtotheTexnologyismainlyresponsibleforthe
T-SUPREMA–Needle-punchingaseasyasneverbefore
16 TrützschlerpresentsT-SUPREMA-modern solutionsforneedle-punched
onneedle-punchingprocess.Jointprojectscanthusbuildabroadapplicationexpertise. nonwovens
TECHNOLOGY
TECHNOLOGY OPTIMAhasthepolyamideindustrial/technicalyarnsbuildingSinceline.)industrialMO40-EInextrusionIDYTrützschlerMan-MadeFibersintroducesOPTIMAforandexpandstherangeofthesuccessfulOPTIMAsystemsbytheindustrialyarn(IDY)sector.additiontoOPTIMAforcarpetyarns(MO40-C,andTo40),variantsformanufacturing(semi-multifilamentyarnsarenowjoiningthe2012,Trützschlerhasbeendevelopingandhigh-performanceextrusionlinesforcarpet(BCF-BulkContinuousFilament)andyarnsmadeofpolyester,andpolypropylene.ThemarketlaunchofOPTIMAconceptforBCFtookplacein2019andestablisheditselfinthemarketssincethen.wasdesignedasamodularplatformandnow also includes solutions in the IDY (InDustrial Yarn) OPTIMAsector. systems for industrial yarn (TEC-O40 and TEC-O80) impress with maximum flexibility application and end product diversity. Both concepts products.adaptedairbags.shrinkageyarnsOPTIMArequirements.preciselyofferawiderangeofdesignoptionsandcanbetailoredtomeetendproductandthethroughputenablestheproductionofhigh-tenacityforshoelaces,ropesandnetsaswellaslow-qualitiesfortirecords,trucktarpaulinsandAsthelinesaremodular,theycanbequicklytonewmarketdevelopmentsandend 17 TrützschlerMan-MadeFiberspresentsOPTIMA systemsforindustrialyarns OPTIMAforIDY–powerfulmachineryforindustrialyarns
Jet 250 HT for fabric dyeing was very much appreciatedbecauseitgrantsperfectresultswithalow liquor ratio and no machine downtime while for yarn andtowdyeing,the198HTwasindeedanotherhit.
PROCESSING
18
GreatsuccessforLAIP,Italiandyeingmachines producer,atITMTurkey OPTIMAforIDY–powerfulmachineryforindustrialyarns
JULY-AUGUST 2022
aretheclosedTheoptimizemostLAIPmachineshaveincreasingsuccessinTurkey,andimportanttextilecompanieshavechosenLAIPtotheirdyeingprocess.feedbackreceivedduringITMandtheordersduringtheexhibitionareaconfirmationofhowcompanyvaluessuchastraditionandinnovationtherightpath.
Afteralongtime,LAIPwashappytomeetagainlive clients, partners and technicians at the just over ITM Exhibition in Istanbul. Many visitors from Turkey, AfricaandtheMiddleEastcontributedtomakingthis eventagreatsuccess!TogetherwiththeTurkishagent, Oguz Machina Sanayi, we welcome many customers at our stand, talking about LAIP innovations and technologies.
19
NetworkingOpportunities:Thedelegateswillhave
AllinformationaboutITMF2022Davoscanbefound on the ITMF Conference 2022 Website. People interested to attend this unique event can contact the ITMF-secretariatatsecretariat@itmf.org.
After3years,the ITMFAnnualConferenceisback as an in-person event. Participants will meet from September 18-20, 2022, in Davos, Switzerland in the wonderful settings of the Swiss Alps in the heart of Europe.
KeynoteSpeaker:Dr.DavidBosshartisarenowned philosopher, futurist, retail & consumer analyst with in-depth knowledge about consumer behaviour and the retail industry. He was CEO of the GDI Gottlieb Duttweiler Institute for Economic and Social Studies in Rüschlikon/Zurich for 22 years. He will deliver a keynote-address with the title “Between cheap, aspirational,andsustainable-textilemanufacturingin afullydisruptiveandinterconnectedworld”.
The world is faced with many short- and mid-term challenges as a result of the pandemic and disrupted supply chains. The consequences and learnings resulting of these challenges will be addressed. The long-term challenge our industry must deal with is climate change. Identifying solutions for sustainable textile production, new products, and market opportunities are key for a successful textile value cooperationexchangechain.Theconferencewillprovideanidealplatformtobestpractisesanddemonstratesuccessfulmodels.
The traditional Gala Dinner will take place in the Hotel Schweizerhof in the city of Davos and will featureafashionshowbytheSwissTextile&Design School.
Start-upandvisionandwillengageindiscussions:Sessions:Nexttospeakerswithalonghistory in the fibre, chemical, textile machinery, textile, upgarment,andhometextileindustrywearealsoinvitingto6start-upcompaniestosharetheirinnovations and business models. Engaging with start-ups is an efforttolearnfromeachotherandtohelpidentifynew solutionsthatturnchallengesintoopportunities
willlunches,conferenceforward.andmanyopportunitiestodiscusswitholdandnewfriendscolleaguesthestateoftheindustryandthewayThenetworkingopportunitiesduringthearenumerous–breakfast,coffeebreaks,anddinners.ThetraditionalWelcomeDinnertakeplaceina mountain restaurant “Fuxägufer” high above the city of Davos. The informal get-together will take place in an extraordinarysettingwithtraditionalentertainment.
General Theme: “Climate Change and a SustainableGlobalTextileValueChain”.
ClimateChangeandaSustainable GlobalTextileValueChain TECHNOLOGY
ITMFisproudanddelightedthatbothSwissTextiles and Swiss Textile Machinery are co-hosts of this year’sconference.
Speakers: Industry experts from the following companiesandorganisationswillsharetheirexpertise
ITMF Awards2022:Forthefirsttime,ITMFwillrecognise namelyITMFwithpersons/companiesfortheiroutstandingachievementsthenewlyintroducedITMFAwards.In2022,theAwardswillbegrantedintwocategories, “Innovation & Sustainability” and “InternationalCooperation”.
WorldCafé:TheformatoftheWorldCafé,whichwas introducedforthefirsttimein2019inPorto,Portugal, willprovidedelegateswiththeopportunitytodiscuss actively in smaller groups selected questions about how to navigate the current and future business environment. The results of the different groups will be shared among the participants at the end ofWorld Caféwithsomemaintakeaways.
Juniorengineerswithfocusonsustainability Awardwinnerswithfoundationchairmanandprofessors Imagesource:VDMA
topicofhermasterthesiswasthefunctionalisationof yarnsforthefiltrationofmicro-andnanoplasticsfrom Awater.Promotion
category Project Work, endowed with 3.000 euros was awarded to Simon Hoebel, TU Dresden, for his thesis on recycled
20
Awardthermoplasticfibresforcompositecomponents.MarinaMichel,TUDresden,receivedaSustainabilityinthecategoryMaster,worth3.500euros.The
JULY-AUGUST 2022
Prize in the category Project Work, endowed with 4.000 euros, was awarded to a student group from RWTH Aachen. The teamwork of Luis Gleissner, Leopold Habersbrunner, Frederic Olbrich andFrederikSchickswastheconstructionofatestrig Felixfortestsonoil-adsorbingtextiles.Zerbes,RWTHAachen, was awarded a improveHePromotionPrizeof3.500eurosinthecategoryMaster.developedatechnicalsolutionforairjetweavingtothequalityofwovenfabric.
TECHNOLOGY
OntheoccasionoftheTechtextilfairinFrankfurt,the Chairman of VDMA’s Walter Reiners-Stiftung Foundation, Peter D. Dornier, has awarded prizes to seven successful young engineers. For the first time, the Foundation awarded two Sustainability Awards. They areawarded to academic works in which, for example, solutions for resource-saving products and Atechnologiesaredeveloped.SustainabilityPrizeinthe
TECHNOLOGY
Welcoming&“Consumerpackaging;andotherorganizations.him, Mr. Pankaj Poddar, Group CEO, Cosmo Films Limited said, “With more than two decades long career in films and packaging industry, Justin holds proficiency in leading teams across functionsincludingengineering,sales,marketing,and operations. His expertise in leadership, strategy and business acumen will prove significant to Cosmo FilmsoperationsinNorthAmerica.Iamdelightedto have him onboard and look forward to his contributions in achieving our strategic goals in Commentingthoughtfulandinnovativeways.”onhisnewrole,
CosmoFilmsappointsJustinGlassasPresidentforNorth Americaoperations -With over 25 years of experience, Justin will be responsible for devising strategy, market operations, and business growth
Mr. Justin Glass, President,NorthAmerica,CosmoFilms,“Cosmo’s market domination and growth in different film segments is testimony of the dedication of Cosmo team, vision of its leadership, and Cosmo’s Product Quality and Customer service. I am thankful that the leadershiphasentrustedmewiththeresponsibilityof MBAEngineeringJustinwithCosmolookleadingandgrowingtheirbusinessinNorthAmerica.IforwardtoleveragingtheinnovativeteamsatFilmstohelpunlocknewmarketopportunitiesourpartnerbrands.”isaBachelorofScienceinMechanicalfromVirginiaTechUniversity,andanfromAverettUniversity.
21
Cosmofunctionsacrossseveralprimarypolymermarkets.FilmsLimited,aGlobalLeaderinFilms
A seasoned business leader with over 25 years of experience,JustincomestoCosmoFilmswithdiverse experience and expertise in plastics and packaging industry.Justinstartedhiscareerinplasticindustryas a Process Engineer for Bi-axially oriented polypropylene (BOPP) tape films in the extrusion & coating functions and moved on to various technical for Packaging, Labelling, Lamination and Synthetic PaperandanemergingplayerinSpecialtyChemicals, Polymers&“Petcare,appointedMr.JustinGlassas President for their business operations across North America. In his new role, Justin will be responsible for devising growth strategies and expanding business in the NorthAmericanregion for theorganisation.Inthisnewrole,Justinwillreportto Mr.KulbhushanMalik,Sr.VicePresidentandHeadof
PentaplastDirectorpastpharmaceuticalmanufacturersplannedcommercialJustinInternationalOperations,CosmoFilmsLimited.holds15yearsofexpertiseinhandling&financerelatedbusinessstrategiesandexecutionforlargemultinationalpackagingservingthefood,consumerpackaging,&medicalpackagingverticals.Inhistenures,hehasbeenassociatedwithDSSmithasCommercialOperations;KlöcknerasCommercialDirectorAmericas–Food
“WearedelightedtoreceivetheTop100awardforthe third time this year,” said Sebastian Mayer, Chief Digital Officer and member of the Mayer & Cie. management. “2019 and 2020, characterised by a slump in demand and the pandemic, were not easy yearsforourcompany.Yetwedeliberatelyworkedon improving our processes in order to hit the ground
CustomerbenefitisthesenseandpurposeofMayer& Cie.’sdigitaldevelopmentwork.“Ouraimistoboost the productivity of customers who work with our circular knitting machines,” as Sebastian Mayer puts it. Their main point of access to the company’s development work is the “knitlink” IIoT platform, 22 OneofGermany’smostinnovativesmalland mid-rangebusinesses
BenjaminMayer(left)andSebastianMayer(right)arereceivingtheawardfromRangaYogeshwarin Frankfurt/MainonFriday.
Claimtoleadershipadeliberatedecision
Frankfurtmanagementcustomers’furtherinnovativecircularbusinesses.Germany’s100Albstadt-baseddrivingemployeesrunningoncethemarketrecovered.Wethankallofourforsupportingthisdevelopmentandthechangeforward.”Mayer&Cie.hasbeennamedaTopaward-winnerforthethirdtimeasoneofmostinnovativesmallandmid-rangeThejurymadespecialmentionoftheknittingandbraidingmachinemanufacturer’sprocesses.Atthecentreofthefamilyfirm’sdigitaldevelopmentisontheaimtoboostitsproductivity.MembersoftheMayer&Cie.receivedtheawardfromthesciencejournalistRangaYogeshwarattheSMBsummitinamMain.
JULY-AUGUST 2022
BoostingProgressisdigitalforSMBstoothecustomer’sproductivity
SebastianMayerlikestocallitthe“digitalbackbone”.
KNITTING
“Basically, what it means is that all product data is processed in he same database and all information is available only once and can be downloaded immediately,“heexplains.
Forsometimenow,thefocusofdevelopmentworkat Mayer & Cie. has been on lean management in assembly processes, on optimisation of aftersales service, including setting up an online shop for spare parts,andonproductlifecyclemanagement,orPLM, which stands for a concept of seamless integration of all the information that arises during a product’s Alifecycle.cleandatastructureisthebasisforthesemeasures.
TheMayer&Cie.assemblylineinAlbstadt-Tailfingen
Photo:RalphKochforMayer&Cie.
Mayer & Cie. (MCT) is a leading international manufacturer of circular knitting machines. The companyofferstheentirerangeofmachinesrequired formakingmoderntextiles.Fabricsforhometextiles, sportswear, nightwear and swimwear, seat covers, underwear and technical uses are made on MCT
Founded in 1905, Mayer & Cie. generated sales of EUR 103 million in 2021 with about 450 employees worldwide, according to preliminary figures. In addition to its headquarters in Albstadt, Germany, where around 350 people work, and subsidiaries in China and the Czech Republic, sales partners for circular knitting and braiding machines in around 80 countriesrepresentMayer&Cie.
In all, 436 companies, including about ten per cent from machinery and plant engineering, competed for the Top 100 seal of innovation this year. Nearly 300 were successful and were congratulated in person by RangaYogeshwar at the SMB summit. He noted that the award winners set a role model example.
KNITTING
“Innovators are thought leaders; they are always pioneers too,” said Yogeshwar, who mentors the competition. “They put their products to the test and ask themselves what an ecological society and a climate-orientedworldwillrequireofthem.Andthey checktheopportunitiesandchallengesthatincreasing digitisationwillbringforformsofcooperation,social relationshipsand,withthem,foremployeeretention.”
Furthermore,knittingmachines.Mayer & Cie. regularly develops new approaches underlining its leadership in technology. Since2019,Mayer&Cie.hasaugmenteditsportfolio by braiding machines which produce sheathings for hydraulic tubes used in aviation, automotive industry as well as in further, very specific fields of applications. where machine data is to be recorded and evaluated. Sparepartssalesisthenautomatedviatheonlineshop and support is available from the platform round the clock.Infuture,a3Dmodelofeverymachine–akind ofdigitaltwin–istobeavailableon“knitlink”.
AboutMayer&Cie.
23
Photo:RalphKochforMayer&Cie. ThedevelopmentdepartmentatMayer&Cie. inAlbstadt-Tailfingen: witharound50ofthefirm’s400 employeesSebastianMayerdrivestheSMB’s digitisationforward.
Mayer&Cie.inaward-winningcompany
Atthisstageourjointworkpavesthewayfor:
A European textile recycling roadmap proposing fiber-to-fiberObjectivesandKeyResultstorecycle2.5millionoftextilewasteby2030
Ÿ
Facingwasteby2030theEuropean
EURATEX’s ReHubs initiative plans to pursue fiber-to-fiberrecyclingfor2.5millionstonsoftextile textile waste challenge and to Waste into Feedstock” announced as first project supported by the ReHubs, and aiming at building up a first 50,000 tons capacity facility by 2024. ThetextilerecyclingindustryinEuropecouldreach economic,socialandenvironmentalbenefitsfor€3.5 Europebillionto€4.5billionby2030hasa7-7.5milliontonstextilewasteproblem, ofwhichonly30-35%iscollectedtoday.
Based on the ambitious European Waste law, all EU Member States must separately collect the textile waste in 2 years and half. While some countries are designing schemes to face the waste collection challenge, currently no large-scale plan exist to process the waste.The largest source of textile waste (85%) comes from private households and approximately 99% of the textile waste was made
memberslargefinallyactivatecirculareconomyinthetextilesectoratscale,EURATEXincollaborationwithitslaunchedtheReHubsinitiativein2020. Ÿ “Transform
Ÿ Afirstconcreteportfolioof4launchingprojects: 3.Expandcapacitybysolvingtechnicalchallengesfor2.thermo-mechanicaltextilesrecyclingIncreasetheadoptionofmechanically recycled fibersinthevaluechain WhatistheReHubsinitiative? Ÿ Aleading collaboration hub with large players and SMEsfromacrossanextended 24 CirculatingTextileWasteintoValue TECHNOLOGY JULY-AUGUST 2022
ThisEuropeantextilerecyclingvaluechaincollaborationissettoturnthe societal textile collection,production,chemicals,valuepromoteIntoproblemandTherecycled4.1.facilityTexaidsuchprojectprocesses.accuracywhichTheintotexileEUwasteissueintoabusinessopportunityandtofulfiltheambitionsoftheGreenDeal,ofthemandatorywastecollectionbyend2024andthetransitionCircularEconomy.1stprojectaddressescurrentsortingtechnologieshavelimitstoidentifymaterialswithsufficientforthesubsequentcircularrecyclingThe“TransformWasteintoFeedstock”willfocusonfurtherdevelopingandscalingsortingtechnologies.TheprojectgroupledbyAGaimsonbuildingupafirst50,000tonsbytheend2024.TransformtextilewasteintofeedstockCreatecapsulecollectionwithpost-consumerproductsReHubsinitiativebringstogetherkeyEuropeanworldplayerstosolvetheEuropeantextilewastebytransforming“waste”intoaresource,andboosttextilecircularbusinessmodelatlargescale.2020EURATEXlaunchedtheReHubsinitiativetocollaborationacrosstheextendedtextilechainandconsideringallperspectivesonfibersmaking,textilesmaking,garmentsretailanddistribution,textileswastesortingandrecycling.
circulatingReHubsbypotentiallyandandbeinvestmentaroundWeusingvirginfibers.assessthattoreachafiber-to-fiberrecyclingrateof18to26percentby2030,acapitalexpenditureintherangeof6billion€to7billion€willneeded,particularlytoscaleupsufficientsortingprocessinginfrastructure.Theeconomic,social,environmentalvaluewhichcouldberealized,totalanannualimpactof€3.5-4.5billion2030.2022textilewasteintovalue
NextstepsoftheReHubsinitiative
In June 2022 the first ReHubs Techno Economic Master Study (TES) has been completed and shades lights on key figures, options to collaborate for European-widesolution.
Ÿ
Ÿ manufacturingincreaseEurope(TES),AccordingReHubsTechnoEconomicMasterStudythetextilerecyclingindustrycouldgenerateinaround15,000directnewjobsby2030,andneedfornearshoringandreshoringoftextile
Ÿ
Once matured and scaled, the textile recycling industry could become a profitable industry with a total market size of 6-8 billion € and around 15,000 directnewjobsby2030. Transforming a societal challenge into an opportunity
Global shipments of long-staple (wool) spindles increased from about 22 thousand in 2020 to nearly These are the main results of the 44th annual International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) just released by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF).The report covers six segments of textile machinery, namely spinning, draw-texturing, weaving, large circular knitting, flat knitting,andfinishing.Asummaryofthefindingsfor comprehensivetextilebeeneachcategoryispresentedbelow.The2021surveyhascompiledincooperationwithmorethan200machinerymanufacturersrepresentingameasureofworldproduction.
WorldwideShipmentsofNewTextileMachinery2021wereas HighorHigherthanPre-Pandemic
The total number of shipped short-staple spindles increasedbyabout4millionunitsin2021toalevelof 7.61 million. Most of the new short-staple spindles (90%)wereshippedtoAsia Oceania,wheredelivery increased by +115%. While levels stayed relatively small, Europe saw shipments increasing by +41% (mainly in Turkey). The six largest investors in the short-staple segment were China, India, Pakistan, inTurkey,Uzbekistan,andBangladesh.2021,decreasedcomparedto2020(-14%to12’600 units). machines registered a 109%-growth. The sum of all deliveriesinthefinishingsegmentalsoroseby+52% onaverage. 695 thousand open-end rotors were shipped worldwide in 2021. This represents 273 thousand additional units compared to 2020. 83% of global shipments went to Asia & Oceania where deliveries increased by +65% to 580 thousand rotors. China, Turkey, and Pakistan were the world’s 3 largest investors in open-end rotors and saw investments surging by +56%, +47% and +146%, respectively. OnlydeliveriestoUzbekistan,the7thlargestinvestor In 2021, global shipments of spinning, texturing, weaving, knitting, and finishing machines increased sharply compared to 2020. Deliveries of new shortstaple spindles, open-end rotors, and long-staple spindles rose by +110%, +65%, and +44%, respectively. The number of shipped draw-texturing spindles surged by +177% and deliveries of shuttlelessloomsgrewby+32%.Shipmentsoflargecircular machinesimprovedby+30%andshippedflatknitting
SpinningMachinery
25
TECHNOLOGY
WhoparticipatesintheReHubsinitiativesofar?
Acknowledgements
To ensure inclusivity and mobilize resources, EURATEX has set three stakeholder groups: A Business Council pooling together pioneering companies to perform the TES study;A Stakeholder Forum with a wider pool of business, research and academia players which has been gathered twice to share high-level information and support future collaboration. A EURATEX Task Force with 14 nationalandnationalassociationstoreviewprogressoftheReHubsalignwithpolicyandindustrydevelopmentsandlevel.
TheinitiativeandsupportedtheTESstudyinclude:accomplishmentoftheTESstudyhasbeenmade possible thanks to pioneering companies and to outstandingadvisors.
Companies which have engaged in the ReHubs
In June 2022 ReHubs completes a Techno Economic master Study (TES) which researches critical information on the feedstock (textile waste) data, on technology, organizational and financial needs to recycle2.5milliontonsoftextilewasteby2030andto effectivelylaunchtheReHubs.
TECHNOLOGY JULY-AUGUST 2022
It is important that ever-increasing demand for environment friendly products from eco-conscious consumers have enforced home fashion brands and fashion houses to seek a unique chemistry that can provide a biological solution to environment related issues.
Recron EcoGold with CiCLO is designed to reduce persistence of textile waste in landfills and other related conditions. It is the solution to the environmental crisis due to textile waste accumulation. Today, one of the major challenges waste.facedbytheenvironmentistheaccumulationoftextileInthefashion,furnishingindustry,amajorityof
UnveilsHEXARELFibrefill-Graphene-enhanced newagesmartfibre processenablesahasRelianceIndustriesLtd(RIL),India’slargestcompanylaunchedRecronFibrefillEcoGoldwithCiCLO-newfibretechnologyhavingauniquechemistrythatactivationofbiomimeticbiodegradation-attheHeimtextilexhibitioninFrankfurt.
Circular&FlatKnittingMachinery
thiscountrycover73%oftotaldeliveries.
TexturingMachinery In the category of double heater draw-texturing spindles (mainly used for polyester filaments) global shipments increased by +167% to a level of 870 thousand spindles. Asia’s share of worldwide shipments.theshipmentsincreasedto95%.Thereby,Chinaremainedlargestinvestoraccountingfor92%ofglobal
26 31’600in2021(+44%).Thiseffectwasmainlydriven shippedinbyariseindeliveriestoAsia&Oceaniawithaincreaseinvestmentof+70%.68%oftotaldeliveriesweretoIran,,Italy,andTurkey.
In 2021, worldwide shipments of shuttle-less looms increased by +32% to 148 thousand units. Shipments inthecategories“air-jet”,“rapierandprojectile”,and “water-jet” rose by +56% to nearly 45’776 units, by +24% to 26’897, and by +23% to 75’797 units, respectively. The main destination for shuttle-less looms in 2021 was Asia Oceania with 95% of all worldwide deliveries. 94%, 84%, 98% of global air-
Global shipments of large circular knitting machines grew by +29% to 39’129 units in 2021. The region Asia & Oceania was the world’s leading investor in thiscategorywith83%ofworldwideshipments.With
RelianceIndustrieslaunchesworld’sfirstbiodegradable polyester-RecronEcoGoldwithCiCLOfibretechnology
2021.17investments.Shipmentstothecountryrosefromaboutthousandunitsin2020to67.6thousandunitsin FinishingMachinery
2021dyeing”1’081jiggertheincreasedglobalinformstentersSincewhichsubsegmentrelaxIn76%-shareChinamachinesAsiaincreased2021,andfavoured64%ofalldeliveries(i.e.,21’833units),Chinawasthedestination.TurkeyandIndiarankedsecondthirdwith3’500and3’171units,respectively.Inthesegmentofelectronicflatknittingmachinesby+109%toaround95thousandmachines.&Oceaniawasthemaindestinationforthesewithashareof91%ofworldshipments.remainedtheworld’slargestinvestorwithaoftotalshipmentsanda+290%-increaseinthe“fabricscontinuous”segment,shipmentsofdryers/tumblersgrewby+183%.Allotherroseby33%-88%exceptdyeinglinesshrank(-16%forCPBand-85%forhotflue).2019,ITMFestimatesthenumberofshippednon-reportedbythesurveyparticipantstoontheglobalmarketsizeforthatcategory.Theshipmentsofstentersisexpectedtohaveby+78%in2021toatotalof2’750units.In“fabricsdiscontinuous”segment,thenumberofdyeing/beamdyeingshippedroseby+105%tounits.Deliveriesinthecategories“airjetand“overflowdyeing”increasedby+24%into1’232unitsand1’647units,respectively.
WeavingMachinery
respectively.90%,weretexturingwastoincreasedspindlesGlobalsub-categories.tojet,rapier/projectile,andwater-jetloomswereshippedthatregion.ThemaininvestorwasChinainallthreeDeliveriesofweavingmachinestoshipmentsofsingleheaterdraw-texturing(mainlyusedforpolyamidefilaments)by+365%fromnearly16’000unitsin202075’000in2021.Withashareof94%,AsiaOceaniathestrongestdestinationforsingleheaterdraw-spindles.China,ChineseTaipei,andTurkeythemaininvestorsinthissegmentwithashareof2.3%,and1,5%ofglobaldeliveries,
27 post-consumer textile waste, weighing millions of Thesetons,endupinlandfills.wastetextilescan take up to 400+ years to decompose. In such a scenario, it is extremely themenvironmentThisonthataboveThereductionupimportanttobeawareandtakeresponsibilitytocomewithnewpathbreakingsolutionsthatcanensureoftextilewasteinlandfills.RecronEcoGoldwithCICLOisthesolutiontotheproblem.ItisaninnovativeeffortofReliancewillhelpreducetheimpactofunrecycledtextilestheenvironment.technologyenablesmicrobeslivinginthetobreakdownthematerialsandconvertintobasicelementslikecarbondioxide,water, mineralsetc.justliketheybreakdownnaturalfibres. insulationjackets,productstaticlikeitsbedding,FibrefillMeanwhile,ECOsafeThechemistryusedtomaketheproductisproventobeforuseinsustainabletextilesbyOEKO-TEXPASSPORT,anindependentcertificationsystemReliancehasalsounveiledHEXAREL-AGraphene-enhancednewagesmartpillowsandextremefibreatHeimtextil.Withinherentpropertiescoldweatherclothingsystemheatretention,odour(ECWCS)control,anti-etc.,HEXARELfibrefillhasamultitudeofapplicationssuchassleepingbags,thermalcomforters&quilts,householdthermalinhigheraltituderegion.
redtie)
RIL,SRTEPC,TEXPROCIL
InvestIndia
theRILboothatHeimtextilFrankfurtExhibitionVikasWadiker TECHNOLOGY
MrU.P.Singh,Secretary,MinistryofTextile(in is with and officialsat
seen
FundamentaldriverofthemissionoftheCompanyis,in fact, the eco-centric approach which consists in a tireless pursuit of solutions for sustainable production with the aim of reducing the environmental impact to Preciselyprovidefinalconsumerswithsustainablefabrics.becauseofthisvision,afterthemarketlaunch in2018oftheItemarapierweavingmachineexclusively Denimdedicatedtoweavedenim-theR9500-2denim,Sharabatiwasamongthe pioneerstoinstallafirstgroup ofthismachinemodel,equippedwiththeoneofakind iSAVER® , the device that completely eliminates weft and warp waste on the left side of the fabric leading to significantcottonandwatersavings
Just consider that – as reported by the company – the iSAVER® equipped on the weaving machines in production ensures to Sharabati Denim a yarn saving that ranges from 650 Kg to 900 Kg per machine per year. Sustainabilityandtextilemasteryaretheaddedvalues that led Sharabati Denim to confirm the trust in the Itema weaving technology, also considering the significantenhancementsintroducedoniSAVER®also thanks to the fruitful cooperation between the two companies. In 2022, Sharabati Denim implemented an expansion project aimed at significantly increase its production capacity. The weaving partner selected to provide 200 weaving machines for the Egyptian mill is Itema and, Withonceagain,itsrapierR9500-2denimwithiSAVER®.thislastorder,
WEAVING 28 Sharabati Denim is today among the most renowned denimmillsintheworld,featuringacustomerportfolio that includes globally famous fashion brands and mass retailers, and exporting its fabrics to 27 countries worldwide.WithproductionsitesinEgyptandinTurkey, SharabatiDenimweavesmorethan80millionmetersof Everdenim,corduroy,andgreyfabricseveryyear.sincecommittedtorespecting
TrustintheItemaRapierTechnology SharabatiDenimconfirmsthetrustintheItemarapiertechnology andplacesanadditionalbulkordertotheItaliancompany
environmental sustainability, Sharabati Denim introduced process optimizationstodecreasewaterandenergywasteandto promote responsible employment of chemicals.
The R9500-2denim and iSAVER® performances were very satisfying– the best in theircategory – and led in 2021 to a repeat order both for the Egyptian and the Turkishplantforatotalofmorethan180machines.
Sharabati Denim owns a fleet of more than 400 Itema rapier R9500-2denim, thus achieving outstanding levels of performances, sustainabilityandtechnologicalprowess.
JULY-AUGUST 2022
2FAST is a well proven machine with excellent performance demonstrated in several installations in Surat(India).
SMIT’sfreeflightsystemdoesnothaveribbonguide hookswhichensuresa“cleanshed”.Furthermore,the optimisedshedgeometrytranslatesintoperfectfabric construction. As a result, 2FAST can handle diverse technicalfabricapplicationssuchasapparels,hometextiles,andtextiles. SMIT’s a
Ÿ Classicshirting Ÿ 2SAVE–weftsavingdevice Ÿ Weftselection:8-12colours Ÿ Width:170-380cm Applications:Technicalspecifications: An innovative and well-known weaving machine manufacturer from Italy,
Ÿ Suitablefordobbyandjacquard
rapier looms are 2FASTproducegarments,withwhilegrippersnotablewidequalityreputedfortheirversatility,highproductivity,superiorfabricproduction,andcapabilitytohandlearangeofweftmaterialandyarncounts.OtherfeaturesofSMITweavingmachinesincludewhichareeasilyadjustableandremainstableweaving.SMITrapierloomscanbeequippedrapierweftinsertionoptimisedforhometextiles,terrytowels,andcustomisedsolutionstospecialtechnicalfabrics. Ÿ Homefurnishings Ÿ 2FASTSuitableforawiderangeofyarnisthemostcompactloominthemarkettoday, withsimpleandlow,strain-freeaccesstothefrontof the loom. Additionally, the ‘robust design’ methodology employed by SMIT means
FAST stands for Flexible Advanced Shuttleless Technology. SMIT’s 2FAST is a high speed, shuttleless rapier loom that features free-flight rapier ribbon movement, which exchanges the weft at the
stiffer frame,whichguaranteesthelongestmachinelifeand thelowestsparepartsconsumption. Ÿ Terrytowels Ÿ Worstedsuiting Ÿ Quickstylechange Ÿ Sareeanddressmaterials FlexibleAdvancedShuttlelessTechnology Productive,efficient,versatile:SMIT’s2FASTisacompletepackage SMIT’s2FASTrapierweavingmachine
WEAVING 29
beatingthethestylespeedscentre.Thisenables2FASTtooperateatweftinsertionofupto1650metres/min,dependingontheandmachinewidth.Itisthusabletoachievebestfabricconstructionatthehighestspeedwithloweststressforyarn–thankstothelongesttimeamongmachinesofthiskind. Ÿ Linenfabrics Ÿ Denim Ÿ Technicaltextiles Ÿ Woollenshawlsandstoles
MAYER stand was exceptionally good. “The trade visitors were very interested and were looking forward to the exchange after the long Corona break,” said Jochen Schmidt.
textiles for higher-quality and more sustainable construction. Here, warp knitted fabrics with weft Thereinsertionhavealreadybecomefirmlyestablished.wasalsogreatinterestinsolutionsfrom the world of new technologies: in a warp knitted fabric with directly integrated electrically conductive materialthatcanbeusedforgesturecontrol,andina sportsshirtwith3Dprinting.The3Dprintingprocess canbeintegratedinlineintoseriesproduction.
bypurposenaturalTopicstextileandThePresidentofKARLMAYERTechnischeTextilienhisteamheldintensivetechnicaldiscussionsaboutsolutionsforrelevantchallengesofourtime.includedsustainablecompositesmadefromfibers-asnowboardwasexhibitedforthis-andtextileproductsforwatertreatment,e.g.filtrationorseawaterdesalination,butalsoabout
JULY-AUGUST 2022 TECHNOLOGY
30
MAYERThewidefieldsaddition,findmedical,Manysustainabilitylatestinnovativeluggage,aTheyallfoundwhattheywerelookingfor.STOLLhadwiderangeoftechnicalknitwearinitstradefairincludingform-knittedseatcovers,articlesforbandagetechnologyandtheshoeuppersthatmeet100%oftherequiredexpectations.existingcustomers,particularlyfromtheshoeandautomotivesectors,hadcometooutaboutthelatestflatknittinginnovations.Incuriousvisitorslookingfornewbusinessaswellassportswearandfashionbrandshadarangeofquestions.STOLLteamalsohadtheirhandsfullattheKARLstand.
Manyvisitorsandin-depthconversations
The KARL MAYER Group draws an extremely positive conclusion after its participation in the TechtextiltradefairinFrankfurtamMain.FromJune 21 to 24 2022 the global player presented itself as an innovative partner in the production of highperformance textiles and showed innovative samples and application examples from its warp knitting and flat knitting departments.Apart from the last day, the KARLMAYER stand was well attended throughout. MostoftheguestscamefromGermanyandfromthe neighboring countries of Switzerland and Austria. Important visitor nations were also India,Turkey, the TheUSA,Italy,PortugalandKorea.atmosphereontheKARL
SuccessfulTechtextilfortheKARLMAYERGroup,21.-24.06.2022in FrankfurtamMain,Germany
Encouraging
• investments in India for
13th,theIndia'manufacturinggovernmentinitiativestodevelopIndiaasamachinerymanufacturing,thereinsupportingtextilehub'fortextileengineeringITMESocietyhasannouncedits11theditionoftextileexhibitionwhichwillbeheldattheIndiaExpositionMartLtd,Noida,fromDecember8thtothe2022.
India ITME creates an avenue for students to
• Developing India as a textile and textile engineered sourcing destination Participation from 91 countries and 22 chapters, has made Indian ITME a one stop platform for engineering and technical solutions, technology for the textile industry, servicing the whole of the Indian textile industry and building India brand. This event is expected to host more than 1800 exhibitors in 22 Chapters and is expected to have over 1,50,000 visitors over the 6 days period.
• Facilitating connect to agents, dealers, distributors for overseas markets as well as the domestic market for the manufacturers S Chairman, India ITME Society
A T S T 2022
• Encouraging new market developments to generate new custom leads from 2nd tier and rural markets for IndiamanufacturersITME2022 will offer unmatched business opportunities to the exhibitors as the Indian textiles industry is set for strong growth, buoyed by vast domestic consumption as well as export demand. It will open windows to various business verticals in the form of leads, contacts and enquiries on a huge-scale massive platform.
T L GY
transparencyunpredictable,placementopportunitieswithmultinationalexplorecompaniesfunctioningglobally.ItisnotonlyaboutTextile&TextileEngineering,butITMEfunctionsasaculturallyconsciousorganizationpromotingallaspectsofIndiaasatraditionallyrichnation.Theroadaheadshallbeaschallenging,asbutIndiaITMESocietyshallcontinuetopursueandstrengthenitscapabilitiestoleadtheTextileIndustry&TextileEngineeringtofurtherheightsthroughitsambitiousanduniqueinitiatives.HumilityofAction,IntegrityofPurposeandofConductwillbethekeytraitsdrivingIndiaITMESociety’sgrowthandjourneyforward. L G TS T T
G
31 There will be 15 halls in a total area of 2,35,000 sq mtrs, making it the largest in this industry segment.
TheobjectivecriticalissuesfacedbyItalyasawhole throughoutthecourseof2021,primarilydictatedbya pandemic that upset any and all pre-existing equilibriums, have not slowed or halted the Italian
The road to digital transformation has already led numerous manufacturers to completely rethink their
expectations are for a rather uncertain outlook, as underscored by ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi: “2022 remains a year replete with unknown factors, starting with the Russian-Ukrainian conflict, along with the persistence of the pandemic, which seriouslyriskdelayingexpectedgrowthconsolidation forbusinessesinthesector.Difficultiesinfindingraw materials and components negatively affect the completion and fulfilment of orders processed as far back as 2021. To boot, rising energy costs and inflationary trends affecting numerous commodities are depressing overall business confidence. So the
Asoutlookforthesectorisnotsogood.”such,thetwocornerstonesthroughwhichACIMIT aimstosupporttheItaliantextilemachinerysectorare digitilizationandsustainability.
theannualassemblyof ACIMIT,theAssociationofItalianTextileMachinery Manufacturers, held on 1 July proved decidedly positive, showing that in 2021 the sector recovered significantly compared to 2020, to the point of
32
4.0:Thetextilemachinerysectorlookstothefuture
Indeed,textilemachinerysector.datapresentedduring
Specifically,returningtopre-Covidlevels.Italiantextile machinery production amountedto2.388billioneuros(+35%over2020and + 5% over 2019), with total exports amounting to 2.031 billion euros (+37% ver 2020 and +9% over However,2019).theseresultsdonotcanceltheobstaclesthat companiesarestillfacing.Lookingtothenearfuture,
DigitalizationandSustainabilitykeytoResiliencyfor ItalianTextileMachinerySector
TECHNOLOGY JULY-AUGUST 2022
Witheconomicequivalenttermsthethevalidity.ThecollaborationAnhighlightsspecificallyoftheprojectistheGreenLabel,aformofcertificationforItaliantextilemachinerywhichitsenergyandenvironmentalperformance.all-ItaliansealofapprovaldevelopedinwithRINA,aninternationalcertificationresultshaveconfirmedtheinitiative’sextremeThetechnologicaladvancesimplementedbyassociation’smachineryproducersparticipatinginprojecthaveeffectivelytranslatedintobenefitsinofenvironmentalimpact(reductionofCO2emissionsformachinery),aswellasadvantagesformachineryusers.referencetotheyear2021,
a total of 204,598 tons of CO2 emissions avoided on an annual basis havebeenquantified,thankstotheimplementation of improvements on machinery. This is a truly significant reduction which, for the sake of comparison, corresponds to the carbon dioxide emissionsgeneratedby36,864automobilestravelling an average of 35,000 km a year. In terms of energy savings,theuseofgreenlabeledtextilemachineryhas provided excellent performances in allowing for a reductionofupto84%inconsumption.
Magni (professor of the Industrial Systems Sustainability course at the LIUC SchoolofEngineering),thedebateinvolvedGianluca Brenna (Lipomo Printing House administrator and Vice President of the Italian Fashion System for Welfare), Pietro Pin (Benetton Group consultant and Zucchi.Westwood),RavasioPresidentofUNIforthetextile-clothingarea),Giorgio(ItalyCountryManagerforVivienneaswellasACIMITPresidentAlessandro
Calledassembly.on to compare common factors in their experiences relating to environmental transition processes for their respective companies, the participants were unanimous: the future of Italian textile machinery can no longer ignore advanced technology developments capable of offering sustainablesolutionswithalowenvironmentalimpact whilealsoreducingproductioncosts.Thisphilosophy hasbynowbeenconsolidated,andhasproventolead Lastly,directlytoacirculareconomyoutlook.awordonITMA2023,themost important international exhibition for textile machinery, to be held in Italy from 8 to 14 June 2023 at Fiera-Milano Rho.Markingthe19theditionofITMA,thistradefair isanessentialeventfortheentireindustryworldwide, providingaglobalshowcasefornumerousinnovative operational solutions on display. A marketplace that offers participants extraordinary business opportunities. The participation of Italian companies
Combiningimpactinrecentyears.production efficiency and respect for the environment: a challengeACIMIT has made its own andwhichitpromotesamongitsmembersthroughthe Sustainable Technologies project. Launched by the associationasearlyas2011,theprojecthighlightsthe commitment of Italian textile machinery manufacturersintheareaofsustainability.Attheheart
TheupcomingITMA2023exhibit
A round table discussion on the Green Label’s primarypurpose Theenvironmentalandeconomicimpactgeneratedin production processes for Italian textile machinery through the use of Green Label technologies was the focusoftheroundtablewhichconcludedtheACIMIT
TECHNOLOGY
ModeratedismanagedbyACIMIT.byAurora
33 production processes, rendering them more efficient and l ess expensive. The digital world is moving ahead at a decisive rate in the textile machinery sector, where the buzzwords are increasingly, for instance, the Internet of Things connecting to a company’s ecosystem, machine learning algorithms applied to production, predictive maintenance,andtheintegratedcloudmanagementof various production departments. It is no coincidence that ACIMIT has focused decisively on its Digital systemsaimthatReadyproject,throughwhichItaliantextilemachineryadoptacommonsetofdataarecertified,withtheoffacilitatingintegrationwiththeoperatingofclientcompanies(ERP,MES,CRM,etc.). Agreensoul body. The project’s many benefits: the Rina Consulting survey Theassemblyheldon1Julyprovidedanopportunity totakestockoftheSustainableTechnologiesproject, more specifically, with the presentation of the Rina ConsultingsurveyontheGreenLabel’sevolutionand
- L T L GY JULY-AUGUST 2022
Further, Loepfe’s broad product range has played a crucial part. With more complete product families, they have the flexibility to use multiple products to fit the needs of the customer. The respective product components are sourced independently from longstanding suppliers, and product production runs in parallel thanks to successful recruitment and new employment models. Swiss-made hardware quality along with the offering of software updates give products greater longevity and the ability to adapt to changing demands.
Dr. Ralph Mennicke, CEO of Loepfe Brothers Ltd. said: “We are delighted we have been able to fulfil our commitments to customers, old and new. We are constantly looking for innovative ways to retain our strong position. There are many pressures in the market right now, and our strong position has
world.”welcomingtohasneeds.effortstakencomponentsagreatdealofforesight,dedication,andrequiredtroubleshooting.Whilefullavailabilityofallinourcomplexsensorproductscannotbeforgrantednowadays,wearemakingtheutmosttoensuretransparencytoourpartnersandtofindsolutionsalongthewaythatmeetourcustomers’I’mgratefultoeveryindividualinourteamwhohelpedtomakethishappen.Weremaincommittedourlong-standingclientsandlookforwardtoevenmorenewcustomersintotheLoepfe
Positioning themselves for future growth, Loepfe have made several key strategic moves to allow them
However, all these initiatives have come with higher cost pressure and increased capacities and have required a great level of dedication and flexibility from every individual in the Loepfe team and its partners. In an ever-changing landscape they recognize there is no room for complacency and remain committed evolvingtheirprocessestoensurecustomertosatisfaction.
increasingstrengtheningallowedandbuildingsourcingthatallcommunicationcontinuetheirmissiontochampioncustomer-tocentricity.Loepfereportthatcommittedcustomerordersarebeingdeliveredontime,makingthemareliablepartnerwithintheveryuncertainbusinessenvironment.Loepfeconsidertransparentandtheircollaborativeapproachwiththeinvolvedpartiesasmainsuccessfactors.Delaysininternationalsourcinghasbeenthedownfallformanymarketplayers,however,Loepfearecommittedtosourcingwithafuturevisiontoensurecustomerexpectationscanstillbemet.Clearingbottlenecks,holdingincreasedstocks,andcloserworkingrelationshipswithbothnewexistingsuppliers,aswellascustomers,hasthemtogainadditionalbusinessagainstachallengingprocurementbackdrop.Also,relationshipswithtransportpartnersandtheuseofairfreighthashelpedLoepfefulfiltheircommitments.
Despite daily reports of global supply chain issues, Loepfe Brothers Ltd. rise above market uncertainty to continue exceeding customer expectations.
34
Managing Director, HGH India, Mr. Arun Roongta said – “We have seen rapid growth in the number of exhibitors, retailers and distributors from tier 2 and tier 3 cities and towns. There is a visible spike in the penetration of the market which is getting deeper and wider. In these B towns, consumption for high quality HOME products is going up. Prosperity in the Indian economy with a growth rate of 7-8% seems to be real and widely spread is no longer restricted to the urban markets and the metro cities alone. Number of activities at HGH India are a barometer of this change
HGH India concluded its 11 th edition at India Expo Centre, Greater Noida, with an all-time high business reported by over 70% of the exhibitors. Number of trade buyers across all four categories i.e. home textiles, home décor, houseware & gifts too exceeded all previous editions, making a total of 37,260 visitors to HGH India 2022. Coming for sourcing from over 560 cities and towns, they clearly established the growing demand for high quality and branded home products even in the tier 2 and tier 3 cities and towns of India. Most of the exhibitors reported a 25-30% growth in the business as compared to previous editions which is a clear sign of markets becoming better. The growing demand for HOME products shows the pandemic effects are wearing off at the retail level.
US SS SL 35
Over 500 brands report 25-30% higher business at HGH India 22 Next edition in Mumbai, 13 th -16 th December 2022 G0
A G 2022
Now a bi-annual trade show, HGH India will return to Mumbai with its 12th edition at Bombay exhibition centre from 13 th to 16 th December 2022 and will embody Mumbai’s dynamic spirit and business-driven energy with a focus on Spring/Summer 2023 retail season.
JULY-AUGUST 2022
HGH India showcased India’s rich heritage products under the brand Indian Heritage. Gracing the show with his presence, Shri Shantmanu (Development Commissioner, Handicrafts, Ministry of Apparel, Government of India) said, “This year’s show was much bigger and wider than last year’s as 80 percent of the exhibitors were repeat exhibitors which shows that they got good support and business opportunities through HGH India Trade Show. I have seen about 100 regional and traditional exhibitors amongst 400 exhibitors who add to the grandeur of HGH India. Start-up Entrepreneurs will be crucial for the growth of this show and we have seen a lot of them this year along with women entrepreneurs.” in the profile of the market for HOME products.”
In the emerging circular economy of the future nothing is treated as waste. What is left over from one process becomes input to another, so keeping it circulating. Sustainability, greenery and eco-friendly products were a big theme at HGH this year. Their increasing demand in the changing times and the variety, designs, colors etc. present in these products at HGH is attracting them. Products made of wood, fibre, copper etc. including bags, bags, baskets, dustbins made of cloth and jute are well appreciated by the consumer of today.
US SS SL 36
There are several international brands which have been exhibiting at HGH India for years, like Forest (A brand based in Amsterdam, World No. 1 in China.whichname(World’sglasstreatments),systems)Toso(aJapanesebrandforwindowDraperyPashapachi(secondlargestproducerofandwineglassesintheWorld),NachtmannfinestcrystalglassbrandfromGermany)toafew,feelthatIndiaistheirtopprioritymarkethascomeofageandnowmuchaheadfrom
HGH India is a comprehensive trade show for home textiles, home decor, home furniture, houseware and gifts with a clear focus on the Indian domestic market. It is a platform for international and Indian brands, manufacturers, importers and exporters to connect with retailers, importers, trade buyers and interior designers across India. Every year, industry leaders and decision makers look forward to HGH India for product innovations, new trends and technology advancements in home products across all segments.