January-February 2024
EMPOWERING A GREEN FUTURE
ADITYA BIRLA CELLULOSIC FIBRES
Birla Cellulose Fibres from nature
Secures the #1 position in 2023 Canopy Hot Button report
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Birla Cellulose earns Dark Green Shirt for the 4th year in a row, reaffirming its commitment to driving excellence in sustainable practices, through innovations & industry collaborations
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Scan here to download our sustainability report
For more information, contact us at birlacellulose@adityabirla.com or visit www.birlacellulose.com
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Editorial
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LMW and BSL Ltd., Bhilwara ... A thriving collaboration fostering sustained growth and success
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Breaking Boundaries: Birla Cellulose and Usha Yarn partner to pioneer recycled yarn with “Puneh”
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5 must try celebrity looks with oversized denims
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Saurer OpenHouse 2024: A platform for knowledge sharing and innovation
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Focus on core competencies in manmade fiber spinning
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Industry 4.0 for textiles: Smart manufacturing in textiles
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Personnel changes at Brückner Textile Technologies
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Results of the 24th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey
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All eyes on the TC 30i
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Empowering Innovation and Sustainability A Resilient Approach by the Swiss Textile Machinery Association
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Showcasing Revolutionary Absorbent Technologies at Vietnam’s Premier Textile Fair-30
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Inauguration of Garden Silk Mill’s State-of-the-Art FDY Plant: A Leap Forward for India’s Textile Industry
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Oerlikon Barmag WINGS FDY Technology for a sustainable polyester yarn production at Garden Silk Mills in India
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Bharat Tex 2024 Unveils Strategic Alliances with Top Industry Players and Textile Associations to Foster Growth, Innovation, and Sustainability Bharat Tex 2024, India’s flagship textile event scheduled from February 26-29, 2024, in New Delhi, has taken a giant stride forward in redefining the textile industry. Under the patronage of the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, and organized by a Consortium of Textile Export Promotion Councils, Bharat Tex 2024 has forged strategic alliances with leading national and international textile associations, corporate giants, and Indian states. This collaboration represents a remarkable leap toward driving growth, fostering innovation, and promoting sustainability within the textile sector.
07798189485
Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh have been unveiled as the ‘Partner State’ and ‘Supporting Partner State,’ respectively, showcasing their rich textile heritage and progressive initiatives. Furthermore, industry titans such as Aditya Birla Group, Reliance Industries Limited, Arvind Limited, Welspun Living, and others have joined hands as partners for Bharat Tex 2024. These alliances, comprising both domestic and international associations, aim to reinforce Bharat Tex 2024's commitment to showcasing innovation, preserving India’s textile legacy, and promoting sustainable practices on a global scale. The event embodies Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s 5F vision - Farm to Fibre to Factory to Fashion to Foreign. It is poised to become the largest textile event globally, with over 3000 exhibitors and 40,000 visitors from 40 countries. Bharat Tex 2024 promises to showcase the entire textile industry value chain, from India’s rich cultural heritage to cutting-edge technological innovations. Bharat Tex 2024 stands as a testament to India’s commitment to lead the global textile revolution. With a comprehensive approach to showcasing India’s textile strengths in fashion, traditional crafts, and sustainability, the event is poised to redefine the textile industry, inspiring mutual growth and development while fostering a sustainable and innovative future for textiles.
India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Srilanka, Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand, China, HongKong, USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, U.K. & France
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January-February 2024
LMW and BSL Ltd., Bhilwara ... Athriving collaboration fostering sustained growth and success The enduring partnership between M/s. BSL Limited and LMW has extended over three decades, with LMW consistently playing the key role in comprehensive end-to-end projects and modernization initiatives at M/s. BSL Limited, all geared towards enhancing their spun yarn production.
Sh. Nivedan Churiwal , MD, BSL Ltd. & Sh. Arun Churiwal, Chairman, BSL Ltd
Shri Nivedan Churiwal, Managing Director, "In 2005, we envisaged setting up a ring spinning unit to manufacture Polyester / Viscose (P/V) yarn, and conducted a comprehensive evaluation of available options. After careful consideration of features and deliverables, we opted for a 100% LMW project. The unit, equipped with 20,000 spindles, has demonstrated remarkable performance, consistently exceeding our expectations."
Established in 1970 in Bhilwara, Rajasthan, ensuring excellence across applications, Bhilwara Suitings Limited, BSL Limited is spanning over two generations... dedicated to the manufacturing of woollen / worsted yarns, synthetic yarns, blended viscose Establishing 20,000 spindles facility in 2005 for fabrics, and silk fabrics, in addition to furnishing Polyester/Viscose (P/V) blended yarn... and fashion fabrics. As a trendsetter in the Poly Viscose suiting T h e c o m p a n y e x p o r t s i t s p r o d u c t s t o segment and with a commitment to upholding the approximately 60 countries across North and brand's reputation and delivering quality products, South America, Europe, the Middle East, and the BSL strategically planned to establish an in-house Far East. spinning plant for the production of Polyester/Viscose (P/V) blended yarn by opting BSL's association with LMW… An for LMW's comprehensive end-to-end solutions. everlasting partnership dedicated to They successfully inaugurated a state-of-the-art
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spinning unit featuring 20,000 spindles in 2005, for the past 15 years. (100% LMW Project), specializing in producing Poly/Viscose blended yarn in counts of 15s, 18s, A progressive stride into the Cotton Combed 30s, and 40s Ne. Compact process in 2023, with 30,000 spindles project... Expansion into the Airjet segment In 2008-09… In 2023, BSL Limited decided to embark on the When BSL aimed to venture into the Airjet Cotton Combed Compact process, with LMW segment In 2008-09, LMW was the clear choice emerging as the preferred partner for establishing for machinery. Impressed by the quality outcomes this new facility.This comprehensive end-to-end of their existing ring spinning project, BSL project, with 30,000 spindles, dedicated to the decided to opt for 100% LMW Preparatory Cotton Combed Compact application is equipped machinery for the Airjet project. The facility has with cutting-edge smart LMW solutions focusing been operating successfully, setting benchmarks on the production of Ne 20s to 40s counts.
Department Blowroom Card Breaker Draw Frame Finisher Draw Frame Lap Former Comber Speed Frame Compact Ring Frame
Make LMW Gentle Blowroom line LMW LC636 LMW LDB3 LMW LDB3 LMW LDF3 S LMW LH20 S LMW LK69 M LMW LF 4280/SX LMW LRJ 9/SXL
No. of units 01 Line (2000 Kg/hr) 18 03 (Twin Delivery) 01 (Single Delivery) 08 02 12 05 (240 Spindles) 16 (1824 spindles, along with LMW SPINPACT (Single & SIRO)
Mr. Praveen Kumar Jain, CFO and Director (Operations) "LMW machinery's exceptional performance in productivity, quality, user-friendliness, and easy maintenance not only meets but surpasses our expectations and requirements. The front-line sales and service teams consistently deliver outstanding services.”
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January-February 2024
The machinery lineup at the facility comprises of, Application : Cotton Combed Compact Spindleage : 29,184 Avg Count : 27s CCH&W (20s to 36s Ne) Production / day : 22.5 Tons
4-segment drive arrangement, a unique CQ duct, and a modular drive with 40 spindles for flyers and bobbins. User-friendliness is enhanced by features such as draft and twist adjustments from the touchscreen, a wider platform, and bobbin lifting safety.
Smart compact Ring frame LRJ 9/SXL: The mills attain a daily productivity of 22.5 The smart compact Ring frame LRJ 9/SXL from tons/day of compact combed yarn, consistently LMW has been successfully running at a speed of maintaining benchmark quality from the unit. 21,500 rpm (avg speed 20,600 rpm) with the finest quality setting benchmark productivity in cotton The Card LC636 : combed compact yarn application. The versatile Card LC636 from LMW is adept at processing various applications, including cotton, The Ring frame has 1824 spindles, 160 mm lift and blends, and man-made fibers, with equal ease. 36mm ring diameter. Consistent and superior With the impressive active carding area of 1.95 sq. quality is guaranteed through the Direct Loading m. and a cylinder area of 3.95 sq. m., the LC636 System (DLS), a distinctive top-suction rates high in delivering enduring value to arrangement, and the Uni-compact nozzle crafted customers. from specially alloyed aluminum. Integrated with Featuring a working width of 1.5 meters, the a benchmarking compact system, tailored for a LC636 ensures elevated productivity levels and diverse range of applications, including recycled optimal utilization of valuable resources. This fibers, it ensures optimal spinning quality. The aligns with the ethos of "achieving more with simple drive system of the compact roller and the less," addressing the evolving needs of today's High-Performance Module (HPM) contribute to spinners. the ease of operation. LMW's Card LC636 plays a pivotal role in achieving consistent quality with higher precision and seamless production, which is a game changer in the preparatory spinning process for Ring spinning. The Auto Doffer Speed Frame LF 4280/SX: The Sustainable Smart Solutions for Spinning The LMWAuto Doffer Speed Frame LF 4280/SX, Success from LMW backed by a culture of featuring 240 spindles, stands as the market's most innovation empowers mills with the technological advanced Speed Frame, delivering unparalleled and competitive edge through mission critical value to customers. Its benchmark productivity is automation, real time data and analytics from ensured by a robust design and a modular belt connected machines, compatibility with all drive arrangement that facilitates higher delivery applications and consistent performance under diverse operating conditions. speeds of up to 50 m/min. The innovative solutions from LMW are crafted The Automatic Tension Control (ATC), a dynamic with the goal of alleviating customer pain points tension sensing and control system, combined and meeting the demands of today's dynamic with a bottom cleaning device and dual-drive global textile market. arrangement, guarantees consistently high-quality roving. Energy efficiency is optimized through a
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Breaking Boundaries: Birla Cellulose and Usha Yarn partner to pioneer recycled yarn with “Puneh”
Birla Cellulose, a flagship brand of Grasim sustainability seamlessly coexists with style and Industries Ltd., is proud to announce that Birla innovation in this visually appealing yarn. It is also Cellulose and Usha Yarn two industry leaders one of the most commendable aspects of Puneh known for their innovations have joined forces to recycled yarn is its biodegradability. introduce "Puneh," a groundbreaking range of Commenting on the association, Mr. ManMohan highly sustainable mechanically recycled yarn Singh, Chief Marketing Officer, Birla blends. This association aims to revolutionize the Cellulose, said, "As we weave the threads of textile industry by seamlessly integrating recycled innovation and sustainability together, our fashion yarn with sustainable cellulosic fiber. collaboration with Usha Yarn is a testament to our commitment to fashion a brighter, more ecoDerived from Sanskrit, "Puneh" signifies "again." conscious future. By seamlessly integrating style This encapsulates the essence of a new beginning with purpose, we're not just creating fabrics – for recycled fashion yarn, aspiring to weave a fresh we're crafting a sustainable legacy. Together, we're narrative for the industry. The Puneh recycled yarn unraveling the knots of textile waste, stitching a collection is more than just a fashion statement; it narrative of responsible consumption. Our fabrics is a conscientious response to the urgent need for don't just adorn, they advocate for a world where sustainable practices in the textile industry. By fashion leaves a gentle footprint on the planet. In addressing the issue of textile waste head-on, this this partnership, every stitch tells a story of collaboration endeavors to redefine the way we resilience, and every thread binds us to a shared perceive and engage with fashion. vision of a greener tomorrow.” Puneh recycled yarn uniquely blends The introduction of Puneh recycled yarn by Usha mechanically recycled textile waste with Birla Yarn in collaboration with Birla Cellulose marks sustainable cellulosic fiber, including Birla a significant stride towards a more sustainable S p u n s h a d e s a n d L i v a R e v i v a . T h i s and responsible future for the textile industry. environmentally friendly blend not only This initiative speaks to the power of prioritizes sustainability but also possesses the collaboration, innovation, and a shared ability to be recycled again. In a world grappling commitment to addressing environmental with single-use materials, Puneh stands as a challenges. Puneh recycled yarn demonstrates that beacon of sustainability, offering a tangible sustainability can be seamlessly integrated into the solution to textile waste. Birla Cellulose's consumer's daily lives, paving the way for a more commitment to sustainability is evident in the harmonious relationship between style and vibrant and eco-friendly elements, proving that sustainability in the fashion industry. 14
January-February 2024
FASHION 5 must try celebrity looks with oversized denims. comfortable sandals for ankle boots to complete the bohemian vibe. Alia often incorporates floral patterns and earthy tones for a laidback yet stylish appearance. Ayushmann Khurrana's Smart-Casual Fusion: Ay u s h m a n n K h u r r a n a
These Bollywood celebrities provide a diverse range of inspiration for styling oversized denims, demonstrating that this versatile piece can be incorporated into various fashion aesthetics. Ananya Pandey Effortless Elegance: Ananya Pandey effortlessly combines oversized denims with sophistication. Try pairing loosefitting, high-waisted jeans with a crisp white top tucked in. Add a statement belt to cinch the waist and finish the look with classic pumps or ankle boots. Ananya often accessorizes with oversized sunglasses for that extra touch of glam. effortlessly blends smart and casual elements with oversized denims. Try pairing loose-fitting jeans Ranveer Singh's Quirky Cool: with a tailored blazer and a plain or subtly R a n v e e r S i n g h i s patterned t-shirt. Complete the look with stylish known for his eclectic loafers or sneakers. This combination of style, and oversized structured and relaxed pieces creates a polished d e n i m s a r e n o yet comfortable ensemble. exception. Emulate his quirky cool look by Kareena Kapoor Khan's opting for baggy jeans Maternity Chic: paired with a vibrant, Kareena Kapoor Khan patterned shirt or a showcases how to rock graphic tee. Don't shy oversized denims with away from bold colors style. Opt for loose-fitting and patterns, and Denim mini dress and pair complete the ensemble them with a comfortable with chunky sneakers yet footwear. Kareena and funky accessories. often chooses flowing Alia Bhatt's Boho Vibes: tunics or stylish midi Alia Bhatt embraces the bohemian chic look with dresses. Finish the look oversized denims. Choose wide-legged jeans and with minimal accessories pair them with a flowy, printed blouse or a bohofor an elegant maternity chic top. Add some layered necklaces and opt for ensemble. Image Courtesy Lee Cooper 15
Saurer OpenHouse 2024: A platform for knowledge sharing and innovation
Saurer CEO Dr Uwe Rondé presenting at OpenHouse The textile industry is constantly evolving, and development. industry leaders must stay updated on the latest Customers and other visitors had the chance to trends and innovations. To achieve this, Saurer, a explore the new Saurer Sustainability Hub, an leading textile machinery company, hosted for the innovation space that showcases and explores first time the OpenHouse 2024 event on January advancements in textile manufacturing. It includes 12 and 13. This new format brought together a showroom, a spinning development centre, industry experts from academia, consulting, and textile technology consulting services, and a industry, showcasing the latest advancements in machine research centre. This hub serves as a textile technology and fostering collaborative platform for fostering innovative solutions, sustainability, and collaboration within the textile discussions on prevailing megatrends. The event featured an impressive lineup of industry. esteemed speakers, including Prof. Chokri Cherif One of the highlights was the world-premiere from Dresden Technical University in Germany presentations of Saurer's innovative machinery: and Prof. Thomas Gries from RWTH Aachen from the machine-based automation of the BD480 University in Germany, who shared their expertise and BD8 machines with doffer to the Autocoro and insights into sustainable business Melange. Saurer has developed a technology for opportunities and future developments in the rotor spinning that for the first time allows the industry. Dr Uwe Rondé, Group CEO of Saurer, production of melange yarns with a flexible presented an outlook on the company's latest mixing ratio directly on the Autocoro. The semiinnovations and its commitment to supporting automatic rotor spinning machine BD Filea customers in energy-saving, digitalisation, specialises in the production of elastane covered automation, and recycling. The remarkable yarns. These innovative yarns are suitable for a speaker's program included representatives from wide range of applications, including stretch industry partners such as Textechno Herbert Stein fabrics for garments. Notably, the spinning of (Felix Liebhold) and Tailorlux (Tobias Herzog). 100% cotton on Autoairo also drew significant Additionally, ITMF (Christian Schindler) attention from visitors. provided an outlook on textile market 16
January-February 2024
Keynote speaker Dr Chokri Cherif from Technical University Dresden
Keynote speaker Dr. Thomas Gries from RTWH Aachen university 17
Saurer yarns and end products exhibited in the sustainability hub.
Customers during OpenHouse in the sustainability hub at the ZI72 XL with Autospin robot. 18
January-February 2024
Customers in front of BD Filea rotor spinning machine producing elastane covered yarn
Saurer partner booths during the OpenHouse event. 19
Customers in front of BD Filea rotor spinning machine producing elastane covered yarn The Saurer OpenHouse 2024 also featured factory tours and workshops on the Saurer Academy, providing valuable knowledge-sharing opportunities, as well as presentations on Saurer's digital solutions, including the digital Senses platform and the e-commerce solution, Secos. In addition, partner companies, such as GrozBeckert, Kelheim Fibres GmbH, Renewcell, Reseda Binder, Rimtex Industries, RoZa Plastik San. ve Tic. Ltd. Şti., Tailorlux GmbH - integrity solutions, Temsan Air, Textechno Herbert Stein, a n d We l k e r Va k u u m s h o w c a s e d t h e i r contributions to sustainable textile production in a small exhibition. With DZ Bank also the financial sector was present. Saurer donated an Autocoro Spinntester to the Technical University Dresden for research purposes, which was officially handed over to the keynote speaker Dr Chokri Cherif by Dr Ronde at the OpenHouse event. The central concept of the event was to establish a space for fruitful discussions and idea-sharing that could help tackle the challenges faced by the i n d u s t r y. T h e v i s i t o r s ' f e e d b a c k w a s overwhelmingly positive and showed that the textile industry needs this kind of informative exchange. 20
Saurer partner booths during the OpenHouse event.
January-February 2024
Focus on core competencies in manmade fiber spinning
Oerlikon expands intralogistics offering through strategic partnership with Irico Gualchierani Handling S.r.l.
In the future, Oerlikon will offer intralogistics solutions for modern chemical fiber spinning mills through its new strategic partnership with IGH through IG Automation GmbH.
At the turn of the year, the Polymer Processing and Augsburg," explains Oerlikon Polymer Solutions Division of the Swiss Oerlikon Group Processing Solutions CEO Georg Stausberg. IGH realigned its offering in the field of already offers complete solutions for the handling intralogistics for large chemical fiber spinning of fiber bobbins including integrated quality mills. To this end, the unit integrated in 2018 control systems engineered and realized by Thema and since then managed under the name System, another company of the IGH Group. IGH Oerlikon Barmag Automation (OBAA) was has many years of experience in the planning, sold on to the Italian company (IGH) Irico design, manufacturing and installation of flexible, Gualchierani Handling S.r.l. The closing high-performance, and reliable automatic bobbin officially took place on December 20, 2023. handling systems. "We are very pleased about this Both parties agreed not to disclose the sales step and especially about the new highly qualified employees, whom I would like to welcome. price. Besides, this puts us in a position to significantly Thanks to this strategic realignment, Oerlikon will expand our business for intralogistics solutions for be able to focus more on its core competence the textile industry in one fell swoop," says "From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens" Niccolò Paoli, CEO of IGH. within spinning and texturing in the new 2024 fiscal year. This will also include automation Yarn manufacturers continue to be supported solutions that are integrated close to or even in cooperation directly in the product. Solutions for the transport Existing Oerlikon customer contracts will in and packaging of bobbins, for example, are to be principle remain unaffected by the new ownership realized with the new partner in the future. The structure. In future, the two partners will work new unit of the IGH Group will operate under the together very closely and in partnership for the benefit of their customers. "The takeover of the name IG Automation GmbH. workforce ensures that the specialist expertise "With IGH, we have found a strategic partner who remains within the company. This is crucial for us will further develop the intralogistics business of if we are to develop the business area intensively," Oerlikon Barmag Automation with its 55 says Paoli. employees at the German sites in Bernkastel-Kues 21
Industry 4.0 for textiles: Smart manufacturing in textiles The textile industry has witnessed a remarkable garnered widespread adoption and success across the transformation in recent years, largely driven by the global textile industry. Many spinning mills have integration of digital solutions into manufacturing reported significant improvements in productivity, processes. Rieter, a renowned global supplier of quality, and sustainability after implementing Rieter's systems and components for short-staple fiber digital solutions. This global success highlights the spinning, has been a pioneer in this revolution. Rieter ESSENTIAL Digital Spinning Suite's effectiveness in presents its digital innovations with ESSENTIAL meeting the evolving needs of modern spinning mills. Digital Spinning Suites & it's in modernizing spinning mills. Additionally, it explores the significance of real Navigating Challenges and Future Prospects time data analysis data analytics and AI in optimizing Despite the undeniable benefits, integrating digital efficiency and output, delves into the innovative solutions into traditional manufacturing processes can modules of ESSENTIAL Digital Spinning Suite, present challenges. Resistance to change, initial discusses global adoption and success stories, and investment costs, and the need for upskilling the workforce are some of the hurdles that spinning mills addresses future prospects and challenges. may face. However, the future prospects for the textile industry looks promising. As technology continues to Embracing Data-Driven Manufacturing In the textile industry, data is the new currency. Rieter advance, Rieter and other industry leaders are expected has recognized the paramount importance of data to develop even more sophisticated digital solutions analytics and artificial intelligence (AI) in optimizing that further optimize spinning mill operations. the efficiency and output of spinning mills. By Additionally, as the industry becomes more digitally leveraging real-time data and machine learning mature, the challenges of integration are likely to be algorithms, manufacturers can make informed mitigated through experience and best practices. decisions, predict maintenance needs, and enhance overall productivity. Rieter's commitment to data- Conclusion driven manufacturing is evident in the ESSENTIAL Around the world, digitalization is playing an Digital Spinning Suite that connects the dots in the increasingly important role and making a significant spinning process to have complete synergies across the contribution to advances in sustainability. The digital spinning mill platform ESSENTIAL continuously production process. monitors the entire process chain and quickly Innovative Modules of ESSENTIAL Digital highlights inefficiencies. This allows personnel to be deployed more efficiently. Recording specific Network production, energy, and quality data ensures fast ESSENTIALmonitor ESSENTIALmonitor provides organized data from the response times and increases the efficiency of spinning entire spinning process, allowing all relevant mills, while also reducing costs. Tracking the information to be collected, weaknesses to be sustainability footprint of a spinning mill is also identified, and personnel to be managed in the most supported. economical way. The specific and non-stop recording of data for production, energy, and quality allows fast Rieter offers one of the most suitable products, response times and increases the efficiency of spinning systems, and services for saving resources and producing sustainable yarn, combined with high yarn mills while reducing costs. quality and competitiveness. This ensures that the spinning mill achieves long-term, sustainable success. ESSENTIALoptimize ESSENTIALoptimize is connecting the dots in the entire spinning mill. By providing a comprehensive Abstract from the Presentation of picture of process deviations, e.g. quality faults, the Mr. Prasanta Deka, Country MD, system makes it possible to link machine performance Rieter India Pvt. Ltd. At 81st Plenary Meeting of and events. This brings completely new possibilities ICAC Cotton Value Chain: Local Innovations for and revolutionizes process optimization in the spinning Global Prosperity 02 December 2023 - 07 December 2023 , Jio World mill. Convention Centre, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai 400 098, Maharashtra, India Global Reach and Success Since its launch the ESSENTIAL monitor system has 22
January-February 2024
LEADERSHIP Personnel changes at Brückner Textile Technologies
On January 1, 2024, Mr. Alexander Mandel since January 1, 2020. He will continue in this role succeeded Michael Tuschak as Sales Director at in the future. Mr. Mandel previously worked in the Brückner Textile Technologies GmbH & Co. KG company's design and project management in Leonberg, Germany. He has been General departments for over 15 years. Manager of Brückner Sales & Services Shanghai
On January 1, 2024, Mr. Raghav Kuberan took will also assume responsibility for IT at both over responsibility for production and materials locations and will manage these three areas as management at Brückner Textile Technologies Managing Director in the future. He will take over GmbH & Co. KG in Leonberg and Tittmoning as from Mr. Rüdiger Gieske, who is retiring after Vice President Operations. On April 1, 2024, he more than 25 years as COO. 23
SURVEY REPORT Results of the 24th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey Despite being negative, the indicators for business situation and order intake improved in January 2024
Graph 1: Business situation [World] 26 pp
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Source: 8th-24th ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey (24th 15.-24.01.2024) The last ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey months since July 2023, with no change in January (GTIS) was conducted in January 2024. It 2024, while capacity utilization remained at the revealed a significant improvement in the business lowest level recorded (67%), reflecting a cautious climate, signaling a potential turning point driven production outlook. Concerns over weakening by better inflation rates, increased real wages, and demand in the global textile value chain have consumer sentiment in the USA, alongside decreased, with a drop in respondents citing it as a expectations of interest rate cuts. Business main concern to 67% in January 2024, the lowest expectations for July 2024 reached a peak unmet since May 2023. Despite this weakening demand, since late 2021, fueled by improved order intakes the phase has led to reduced rather than cancelled and a more optimistic consumer demand outlook, orders, a departure from early pandemic despite ongoing cost concerns. Order intake began responses. Inventories in the textile value chain showing recovery signs, with notable increases are deemed average by 57% of participants, with across regions except East Asia, particularly in South Americans reporting higher levels and garment producers noting the lowest inventories, North & Central America and South America. indicating a nuanced view of the current market The average order backlog has stabilized around 2 conditions.
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January-February 2024
SPINNING All eyes on the TC 30i
The next-generation TC 30i carding machine 3.More sustainable and economical use of raw captured imaginations at the ITMA 2023. This materials thanks to a redesigned suction system innovative card inspired our customers – while thatcollects different types of waste separately – confirming Trützschler as the trendsetting enabling 50 % of card waste to be reused. The TC pioneer for textile machinery. From smart 3 0 i a l s o c o m e s w i t h t h e p r o v e n functions to sustainable features, the new card WASTECONTROL system – an easy-to-use and generated a lot of excitement. And the effective assuranceagainst unnecessary fiber loss. successful launch event in Milan is now Amodel for each application followed by the sales release of our TC 30i. We are also launching a version of this card specifically developed for textile recycling. It Key benefits and highlights The TC 30i offers a huge range of groundbreaking answers technical challenges in processing new features and fascinating details. But there are secondary fibers like high short fiber content, on three benefits that our customers are particularly average shorter fibers and yarn and fabric particles. excited about: 1.High levels of performance and yarn quality thanks to 35 % more active flats and 14 % Carding soon… increasedcarding length in combination with the The TC 30i is a pioneering new card with the power to maximize quality – while capturing intelligent gap optimizer T-GO. imaginations too. 2.Operator-independent, consistent results thanks to automatic and continuous carding gap settingwith T-GO. Visual Footage: Check out our latest animation: 25
SPINNING
The TC30i at the ITMA 2023 in Milan.
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January-February 2024
SPINNING
More active flats for better quality and more sustainability
The redesigned suction system caught a lot of interest. 27
SWISS TEXTILE MACHINERY Empowering Innovation and Sustainability: A Resilient Approach by the Swiss Textile Machinery Association Cornelia Buchwalder Head of Industrial Sectors Swissmem Pfingstweidstrasse 102, Postfach 8037 Zürich Switzerland
What are the main goals and initiatives of the Swiss for the 13th year in a row. According to a study by the Textile Machinery Association under your United Nations (UN), Switzerland is once again the most innovative country in the world. Our member leadership? As Secretary General of Swiss Textile Machinery, my companies share this claim. They stand for offering top priority is to strengthen our members and with this innovative and sustainable solutions to the challenges in the brand of “Swiss Textile Machinery”. We do this as an the textile industry. This focus continues to make the association in many different ways. One of the pillars of Swiss textile machinery industry an important partner our activities can be summarised under the term for our global industry. promotion. On the one hand, this involves the organisation of Swiss Pavilions, as will soon be the case How is technology shaping the future of textile at Techtextil in Frankfurt (23 - 26 April 2024). Or the machinery in Switzerland? organisation of Swiss Textile Machinery Symposia in Technological solutions are the answer to many of the selected markets. In autumn 2024, we will be holding (textile) challenges we face today. These are the topics two symposia in Mexico and the USA. In a second pillar, that our industry has been working on for some time and we support companies in their innovation activities, which have lost none of their topicality. It is often with company-specific workshops on selected digitalisation, automation and solutions to the topics. Currently this is in the area of sustainability. challenges of textile recycling that are driving Pillar three focuses on skills development and training, developments in the coming years. Switzerland can where we work together with the Swiss Textile College. make a major contribution to the last point in particular, And last but not least, various activities and support for as the spinning process is very central here and is one of our members in connection with the ITMA and ITMA the core competences of the Swiss textile machinery industry. Asia + CITME exhibitions. In what ways does Swiss textile machinery stand out Sustainability is a hot topic in every industry. How is the Swiss textile machinery industry contributing to on the global stage? Switzerland has topped the global innovation rankings more sustainable practices? 28
January-February 2024
SWISS TEXTILE MACHINERY Sustainability has various aspects that all have to work How does the Swiss textile industry adapt to the evertogether, from ecological to economic and social changing global market trends? Of interest to the Indian market is our cooperation with sustainability. There are many starting points here. As already the DKTE, which we intend to develop further. But of described, there are developments to reduce water and course we are constantly evaluating and there is energy consumption. Or the reduction or substitution of certainly room for further partnerships. We are also certain chemicals. Or a higher efficiency of the plants, intensifying our cooperation with universities in other countries. On the one hand, they have a great deal of which leads to the same result. In the meantime, many efforts are underway with technological expertise, but they are also very familiar alternative fibres. This also requires machine with the applied research funding programmes in which manufacturers to be able to produce and process these companies can participate. On the other hand, they are also an interesting pool of potential future employees. fibres. Machine manufacturers play a big role in the whole discussion around textile recycling. As solution Where do you see the Swiss textile machinery providers, they have the opportunity to contribute industry in the next five to ten years? significantly to the further development of To answer this question, I would like to go back in time... Many of the companies in our association were founded technologies. And of course the companies also invest in their own in the second half of the 19th century, have experienced infrastructure to make production operations more many ups and downs and have built up an excellent efficient. They do it with building insulation or reputation over time. Thanks to their long history, Swiss companies have always managed to anticipate change, sustainable energy sources. develop their business strategy and continue to evolve. What are the most significant challenges facing the For this reason, and with the 4,232 years of experience that our 44 members bring to the table, I am certain that Swiss textile machinery industry today? We are in a time when there are so many challenges at the Swiss textile machinery industry will remain an the same time. At the moment, the lack of demand and innovation leader and important solution provider in the therefore the low order intake is one of the biggest years to come. problems. In Switzerland, however, the exchange rate issue has also become more acute again. The Swiss What advice would you give to young professionals Franc has strengthened again against the Euro, making it aspiring to make a mark in the textile machinery more difficult for Switzerland to compete. And then industry? there are the geopolitical challenges and, currently, For various reasons, I am convinced that the textile and more difficult logistics routes due to the Suez Canal. All textile machinery industry is a very interesting and of this together is a challenge for the entire industry, and future-oriented field of activity. Firstly, because textile solutions are also needed in innovative sectors such as there is no real turning point in sight. construction, medicine and aviation. On the other hand, How is your association addressing these challenges? we are facing major challenges, e.g. the increasing Here I have to take a quick step back. Swiss Textile demand for the recycling of textiles. There are many Machinery is an industry sector of Swissmem, the opportunities here to contribute to new and forwardassociation of the Swiss tech industry. Swissmem takes looking technologies. Exciting and challenging at the care of these support issues, be it with legal advice or same time. lobbying activities, mainly in Switzerland. The network within the industry is also important here in order to be Closing Thoughts: Is there anything else you would like to share with our readers about the Swiss Textile able to exchange best practice. Machinery Association or the textile industry at Could you discuss any international partnerships or large? projects that the Swiss Textile Machinery When it comes to bilateral relations between Switzerland and India, there are currently positive signs Association is currently involved in? One of the tasks of an association is to enter into that the free trade agreement between India and the interesting partnerships in the interests of its members. EFTA states will be finalised in the coming months. The In our industry in particular, it is very important to do details are not yet known, but we assume that this would also boost cooperation between the two countries in our this internationally. sector.
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Showcasing Revolutionary Absorbent Technologies at Vietnam's Premier Textile Fair
After a period of absence from industry exporter and a leading importer of textile tradeshows, Technical Absorbents is set to make a machinery. He notes the impressive growth significant comeback by showcasing its advanced trajectory of Vietnam's textile sector, with annual Super Absorbent Fibre (SAF), alongside a range expansions ranging between 20-26% from 2018of innovative fabrics and yarns, at the upcoming 2022, and emphasizes the increasing demand for Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, high-quality textile materials in production. Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT). Hosted by Messe Frankfurt, this pivotal event is Technical Absorbents, already in partnership with scheduled from 28th February to 1st March in Ho tolling entities across Asia for processing its fibers Chi Minh City, and is renowned as the into a diverse array of nonwoven fabrics, and with quintessential sourcing hub for the textile sector's industrial knitters for creating versatile absorbent woven materials, sees significant potential for comprehensive needs. expansion in Vietnam. The company's technology, Positioning itself strategically within the bustling which has applications in wound care, premium heart of the textile industry, Technical Absorbents hygiene products, apparel for moisture will be welcoming attendees at booth #A-L18, management and cooling, as well as in the Hall A. The company is poised not only to exhibit dewatering and geotextiles sectors, stands at the its groundbreaking superabsorbent technologies forefront of absorbent material innovation. but also to contribute to the event's conference by delivering an insightful presentation aimed at Rushton expresses eagerness to share insights into enlightening the audience on the multifaceted their unique technology at the conference, inviting interested parties to explore the possibilities of applications and benefits of their products. integrating Technical Absorbents’ materials into Paul Rushton, the Commercial Director of their product lines. This participation in VIATT Technical Absorbents, highlights Vietnam's underscores the company's commitment to driving critical role in the global textile landscape, citing forward the development of absorbent solutions its position as the third-largest textile and apparel and forging new pathways in the textile industry. 30
January-February 2024
TECHNOLOGY Inauguration of Garden Silk Mill's State-of-the-Art FDY Plant: A Leap Forward for India's Textile Industry The inauguration of Garden Silk Mill's Rs. 1250 crore economic development in the region. Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY) plant in Kadodara, Surat, is a The involvement of high-profile individuals such as significant development in the textile industry, Dr. Purnendu Chatterjee, the group chairman, CEO highlighting India's ongoing advancements in textile Debi Prasad Patra, and George Stausberg from the manufacturing capabilities. With the presence of Oerlikon Group, indicates the importance of this Union Minister of State for Textile, Darshana Jardosh, project within the industry and its potential impact on at the inauguration, this event underscores the the market dynamics of polyester yarn production. government's support for the textile sector, which is a This inauguration not only marks a milestone for vital part of India's economy. Garden Silk Mill but also reflects the broader trends in The FDY plant, known as Spinning 1, with its the Indian textile industry towards technological substantial daily capacity of 272 tons, is set to produce advancement and increased production capacity. The polyester yarn, a key raw material in various textile establishment of such a facility could also enhance applications. This plant represents a significant India's position in the global textile market by investment in the industry, aimed at boosting increasing its competitiveness and ability to meet the production capacities, supporting the textile sector's growing demand for textile products. growth, and potentially contributing to job creation and
Successful commissioning Oerlikon Barmag WINGS FDY Technology for a sustainable polyester yarn production at Garden Silk Mills in India With the successful commissioning of the new best for the future," continued Stausberg. polyester yarn production facility at Garden Silk Mills in Surat, India, Oerlikon Barmag The FDY yarn expansion project at Garden Silk once again proves that the company of the Mills Private Limited (GSMPL) marks the Swiss Oerlikon Industrial Group is rightly one beginning of a period of rapid progress in the of the world's leading suppliers of manmade textile sector by The Chatterjee Group (TCG) fiber plants. The conversion and new under the leadership of its visionary Chairman, Dr. construction of the polyester spinning mill, Purnendu Chatterjee. With its state-of-the-art which now has a total of 216 WINGS FDY manufacturing plant at Jolwa, producing high spinning units, was accompanied by extensive quality polyester chips, POY, FDY and other engineering work, which was conducted in specialty yarns, and the iconic Garden Vareli close cooperation with experts from Germany brand having a contemporary collection of sarees and dress materials, the Chatterjee Group, that has and, above all, from India. investments of USD 8 billion globally, is truly "We are particularly pleased to have equipped creating the Garden of Tomorrow. “We at MCPI Garden Silk Mills, another successful customer, and GSMPL are committed to realize the strong with our WINGS FDY technology," explained textile vision of Dr. Purnendu Chatterjee, Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions CEO Chairman, TCG”, said D.P.Patra, Whole Time Georg Stausberg. "We are confident that the new, Director and CEO, MCPI. state-of-the-art spinning mill will be able to What is polyester yarn production with produce polyester yarns for the highest demands in Oerlikon Barmag WINGS FDY all about? an economically attractive way, so that they can be The principle of producing a yarn is always the offered to the Indian market as well as the global same: spinning pumps press the plastic melt under market. We congratulate Garden Silk Mills on the extremely high pressure through micro-fine successful commissioning and wish them all the nozzles, the resulting filaments are bundled into 31
TECHNOLOGY
threads, stretched over godets, and wound up by a WINGS stands for optimized production winding head. In order to master this principle processes, low waste rates and energy reliably, high-precision and extremely stable consumption reduced by around 30 percent. High technology is required. These machines are in use yarn quality is a must. This pioneering technology day and night, year in, year out. The slightest error can be used in the FDY process for polyester and during the spinning process cannot be corrected polyamide. Oerlikon Barmag's WINGS technology now later. supports Garden Silk Mills in the production of Precise processes for textile and technical yarns FDY premium yarns – high-performance spinning Oerlikon Barmag systems master almost all components such as spinning pumps, spinning processes for the production of textile and beams and spinn packs through to crossflow technical yarns and spin the common polymers quenching and the 216 WINGS winders were polyester, polyamide 6 and 6.6 or polypropylene. installed in the direct spinning process Garden Silk Mills focuses on so-called fully drawn downstream of an existing polycondensation yarns (FDY). They are processed into textile system at Garden Silk Mills. This is because the surfaces without further finishing. Fully drawn quality of the yarn is determined in the spinning yarns are used wherever textiles need to fall mill. Competition on the yarn markets is currently also smoothly or glide. extraordinarily strong for Garden Silk Mills. The result: Sustainable solutions for FDY production Oerlikon Barmag is the technology leader in this constantly increasing cost pressure. The solution: field. The WINGS concept breaks through the optimized production processes, economical limits of conventional FDY spinning systems. systems, sustainable technologies. Oerlikon 32
January-February 2024
TECHNOLOGY
WINGS FDY PLUS sets new sustainable standards in polyester yarn production at Garden Silk Mills in Surat, India Barmag WINGS FDY technology provides all of consequence, this reduces the time required for this. Efficiency is the key feature of WINGS: The feeding by 25-40%; time in which FDY yarn of the winder can be operated entirely from the floor. All highest quality can be produced – and, above all, operating elements are at eye level. As a no waste.
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