INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET : JULY-AUGUST 2019 ISSUE

-XO\ $XJXVW

*RLQJ 'LJLWDO $W

9'0$ PHPEHUV VKRZ LQ %DUFHORQD 0RVW $GYDQFHG 7HFKQRORJ\ 6ROXWLRQV DQG $SSOLFDWLRQV RI ,QGXVWU\

20 – 22 November 2019 Bombay Exhibition Center International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles, Nonwovens and Composites

Discover multiple innovations under one platform FIBRES & YARNS

MACHINERY

T ESPRA

COMPOSITE

& many more...

BOOK NOW!

MUMBAI For bookings, contact us: Jesica John +91 22 6144 5937 jesica.john@india.messefrankfurt.com

Scan the

QR code to book now!

Powering creation.

From manpower to automation At Saurer, we take pride in being at the start of many creations.

From our personal worldwide support to our self-operating machines, we are determined to deliver added value for our clients.

saurer.com

Ad-ManpowerToAutomation-210x280mm-ITM-EN-190812.indd 1

12.08.19 13:55

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Editorial

18

Automatic Recognition Of The Front And Back Side Of Textiles

20

Rieter showcases innovations for all four spinning processes that are established on the market

21

KARL MAYER, the innovative market leader, is pleased with a great deal of visitor interest during ITMA 2019

22

Unifi to upgrade its texturing capabilities with exclusive use of unique new technology

23

Mayer & Cie. takes positive stock of ITMA 2019

25

Going digital at ITMA 2019

27

ACIMIT Rewards Excellence In Textile Machinery Manufacturing With The Italian Green Label Award

30

USTER launches five value modules for the Quality Management Platform at ITMA 2019

31

Smart, efficient compressed air solutions for the textiles industry

32

Reliable suppliers of automation technology ensure success

34

Industry 4.0 investment by CHTC Fong's in China

36

Abraham & Thakore to launch LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019

37

at

Santoni celebrates 100 years of technological revolution at ITMA 2019

38

Autoairo, the new game changer in air spinning,is the biggest attraction at the Saurer booth - Zagis is Saurer's first customer for this innovation

41

Intelligent Embroidery Solution by Saurer

42

LUWA at ITMA 2019

43

CYD is a big hit with 'Denim Triangle' visitors at ITMA 2019

47

Stäubli highlights attracted many visitors at ITMA 2019

49

Québec's textile industry is one of the key sectors of Québec's economy

51

Saurer's contribution to mankind's giant leap, the moon landing

53

VEOCEL™ Launches New Certification Criteria to Elevate Sustainability and Biodegradability in Personal Care and Beauty Products

54

Atlas Copco launches five new air compressors across industry segments

55

Successful ITMA 2019 for Lawer Dosing and Dispensing Systems

56

17

JULY-AUGUST 2019

Innovating the World of Textiles

Innovation Leads The Way At ITMA 2019 th 18 edition ends on high note with large number of quality buyers Themed 'Innovating the World of Textiles', the 18th edition of ITMA, the world's most established textile and garment technology exhibition, concluded successfully in Barcelona, Spain.

The global textile and garment manufacturing industry converged at ITMA 2019, chalking up new records for the exhibition which has been held every four years since 1951. It featured many exciting new product launches and innovative technologies and products, including those that leverage the Internet of Things, by 1717 exhibitors from 45 countries.

07798189485

CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and owner of ITMA and ITMA ASIA, reported that the industry support from visitors and exhibitors was tremendous, resulting in record-breaking number of exhibitors since its inception.

Mr Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX said, “The digital transformation of the textile and garment manufacturing value chain and sustainability concerns of the industry have driven up visitor interests in ITMA 2019. We had a strong turnout, despite trade tensions and poor business sentiments. Many of our exhibitors were pleasantly surprised with the large number of serious buyers attending the exhibition.

“They were also impressed with presence of new visitor segments, such as bigger numbers of fashion and sports brands. Considering that for this ITMA edition, the exhibition duration has been shortened from 8 to 7 days, we still enjoyed good visitorship.”

ITMA 2019 attracted visitorship of over 105,000 from 137 countries. The top 5 countries where visitors came from were Spain (11%), Italy (10%), India (8%), Turkey and Germany (7%).

They were followed by France, United States, Portugal, Brazil, Pakistan, China and the United Kingdom.

One of the exhibitors who was pleased with the visitor quality was Johan Verstraete, Vice-President Weaving Machines of Picanol.

He explained: “Overall, it has been a good ITMA for us. We came with low expectations, but they have been considerably exceeded.

Although we did not get a large number of visitors, the quality was very high. We had many conversations and negotiations, which was somewhat contradictory to the ongoing negative market sentiments.”

An excited Paolo Milini, President & CEO of MS Printing Solutions, agreed: "We are very satisfied with the show. The positive results of ITMA 2019 were made possible thanks to a

18

large number of visitors who came to our stand. We have had over 600 contacts a day, and they come from over 90 countries!"

Launched as a dedicated sector at ITMA 2019, the printing and inks chapter had grown by 40% compared with ITMA 2015, and featured many established and new exhibitors who were keen to exploit the digital printing sector.

VDMA Textile Machinery Association members were also happy with the visitor quality. Regina Brückner, CEO of Brückner Group and Chairperson of the Association, enthused: “A VDMA survey conducted at ITMA 2019 showed that almost 90% of our exhibiting member companies considered both the quantity and quality of visitors as 'good' or 'very good'.

Visitors from all over the world came to ITMA Barcelona to discuss new projects.”

ITMA 2019 also provided the platform for the announcement of a comprehensive modernisation programme for Egypt's textile industry valued at around €1 billion from exhibitors including Benninger, Brückner, EFI Reggiani, Itema, Karl Mayer, Rieter, Savio and Thies.

Many new technologies were launched, ranging from 3D weaving and knitting to hi-tech nonwovens processes, sustainable chemicals and state-of-the-art garment-making technologies, and wide range of software-powered automation solutions.

“I missed the last ITMA in Milan. After eight years, I find there is a big jump in technology. There are many interesting new developments, such as digitalisation and automation, as well as more eco-friendly products.

I came here to also buy equipment for my factories, so this has been a fruitful trip for me,” said Mr Kihak Sung, Founder of Youngone Corporation and President of International Textile Manufacturers Federation.

Another leading industry player, RakhiI Hirdaramani, Director of Hirdaramani and the Manufacturers Committee Chair of the World Federation of Sporting Goods International, said: “ITMA is a meeting of the minds. As much as it is a machinery fair, it's also about understanding new technologies; meeting with your peers and colleagues from various sectors of the industry to understand the challenges and how to

address them.One of the key trends we've seen this year, is about sustainability and Industry 4.0.”

Mr Hirdaramani participated in a panel discussion held at the Speakers Platform, one of the components of the ITMA Innovation Lab which was launched at this year's exhibition. The Platform drew strong interest and participation. It featured about 60 presentations, and was attended by over 900 participants.

In addition, a number of ITMA and co-located events drew over 1,000 delegates. Among the events were the ITMA-EDANA Nonwovens Forum, Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forum, Better Cotton Initiative Seminar, European Digital Textile Conference, Tex-Summit Global, Planet Textiles, SAC & ZDHC Manufacturer Forum and Texmeeting

by TEXFOR. ITMA collaborated with supporting organisations, many of which sent visiting delegations from Central Asia, South Asia, Turkey and the Mediterranean countries. Among the high-level government delegations that were at ITMA included Catalan Minister of Business and Knowledge Ángels Chacon i Feixás; Governor of West Flanders Carl Decaluwé who led a press delegation from Flanders, Belgium; and the Uzbekistan Vice Minister of Silk Jumaev Olimjon and Vice Minister of Textile Jumaniyazov Fahriddin who led a delegation of 40 people.

Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services, which organises ITMA 2019, said: “We are extremely glad that many industry stakeholders see ITMA as an excellent platform for collaboration and sharing of ideas to make the industry more competitive in the face of digital transformation and to explore cuttingedge solutions to future proof their business.”

Alex Zucchi, President of ACIMIT also shares Mr Beauduin's view. He said: "This Barcelona edition has confirmed ITMA as the main B2B platform in the textile industry. The many innovations seen here, especially in the field of sustainability and digitalisation, have increased the interest of visitors. It is essential to focus on these issues also for the next edition of ITMA to be held in Milan in 2023.”

The next ITMA will be held in Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy, from 8 to 14 June 2023.

19

JULY-AUGUST 2019

ELSIDE

Automatic recognition of the front and back side of textiles

The CCD matrix camera used for the ELSIDE application

At ITMA 2019, Erhardt+Leimer presented a new camera application for recognition of the front and back side of a textile web. The system named “ELSIDE“ detects the structure of the material even at high production speeds and irrespective of the material distortion; in this way it is able to differentiate between the front and back side. ELSIDE is suitable for use in all textile manufacturing processes in which

20

incorrectly sewn sections can have a negative influence on the downstream process. Before starting production, only a short teaching procedure is required during which the matrix CCD camera captures the structure of the textile web. Afterwards, an alarm signal is issued in the event of incorrectly sewn sections.

Rieter showcases innovations for all four spinning processes that are established on the market.

Fiber preparation The blowroom VARIOline with the new UNIClean B 15 brings significant improvements in terms of energy consumption and the cleaning result for all spinning processes. The same applies to the new highperformance card C 80, which offers an unrivaled level of productivity.

Ring and compact-spinning process To increase the cost effectiveness of the ring spinning and compact spinning process, Rieter reveals the new comber E 90, the new roving frame F 40, the piecing robot ROBOspin and three different compacting units that can easily be installed on and removed from a ring s p i n n i n g m a c h i n e : C O M PA C T d r u m , COMPACTapron and COMPACTeasy.

Rotor spinning process Innovations that bring considerable improvements in efficiency for the rotor spinning process are also presented. The draw frame module RSB-Module 50 can be used in combination with the high-performance card C 80 and can be configured to a highly efficient direct process with the new semi-automated R 37 or the fully automated R 70. The new, cost-effective rotor spinning machines are characterized by low energy consumption, high productivity and high machine availability with low raw material costs.

Air-jet spinning process There are innovations for the air-jet spinning process too: The process for producing a very attractive yarn made of 100% combed cotton is presented. At the Rieter booth, let yourself be convinced that this process is extremely cost-effective, despite the combed out short fiber content.

21

ESSENTIAL – Rieter Digital Spinning Suite The new innovations for the four spinning processes are supplemented by two new functionalities of ESSENTIAL: ESSENTIALorder and ESSENTIALconsult, which are available to all Rieter customers free of charge with the purchase of a new machine.

In addition to the existing modules ESSENTIALmonitor, ESSENTIALmaintain and ESSENTIALpredict, the next steps are demonstrated: ESSENTIALlab for integrating laboratory data into the spinning mill management system, ESSENTIALoptimize, the intelligent recipe management system, and ESSENTIALautomate for integrating the transport and logistics systems.

After Sales The growing digital service offering complements new solutions for optimizing the installed base. With the PSM Drafting Motor, Rieter After Sales offers a significant improvement on the machines G 33 and K 44; and with the Energy Saving Support Disc it offers the possibility to make considerable energy savings on rotor spinning machines.

Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, SSM and Suessen The Rieter Group’s component manufacturers also introduce further innovations for day-to-day operations, such as the Bräcker ring traveler C1 ELM udr and the new SOLIDRING B 188 from Suessen. In preciforce, SSM presents a system for optimizing the bobbin build-up on precision winding machines. SSM also reveals another yarn innovation: fancyflex is a technology for manufacturing slub yarn for textured yarns.

JULY-AUGUST 2019

KARL MAYER, the innovative market leader, is pleased with a great deal of visitor interest during ITMA 2019

KARL MAYER started successfully into the ITMA week, its diverse exhibition area soon became the industry's favourite meeting point. Nearly 1,000 visitors were counted alone during the first four days.

The international guests were impressed by the modern design of the stand and by the concept behind the presentation. At ITMA 2019, KARL MAYER invites the visitors to embark on a voyage of discovery through the textile world of tomorrow.

inspiration for innovative application developments and thus approaches for new business opportunities “, explains Arno Gärtner with satisfaction.

The machine show impresses by highly efficient complete solutions for a production which will give the customers an important competitive edge also in the long term: flexible, trendsetting machines with excellent cost:benefit ratios for use in warp knitting, innovations in warp sampling and direct warping for the warp preparation sector, a completely new machine for composite materials. The machines are the subject of many specific project discussions and requests.

An important issue in this context is digitization. „At ITMA in Barcelona it becomes clear again that the sector relies on digital solutions when it comes to process optimization and customer orientation. This is the reason why we are so happy about the lively response to the new solutions of our software start-up KM.ON“, says CEO Arno Gärtner.

Interest is also high in KARL MAYER's solutions regarding the responsibility for the protection of the environment. „We specifically show the implementation of our strategic core topic „Sustainability and environment“ at different exhibition islands: from energy-efficient machines, via the processing of resource-saving yarns up to sustainable warp-knitted fabrics and application concepts. One highlight is surely our machine novelty concerning the topic of ‚Sustainable Denim'“, told Arno Gärtner in confidence.

Besides, with its exhibition, the innovative market leader builds a bridge from the machine to the textile and its applications and, thus, hits the mark. „Our show around the topic of ‚Future of Textiles' also attracts enormous interest. During the discussions with our clients and guests it becomes evident that our concept with a focus on innovative textile application examples in addition to our machine innovations, is successful. The textile world of experience offers 22

Oerlikon debuts new eAFK Evo texturing machine

Unifi to upgrade its texturing capabilities with exclusive use of unique new technology Oerlikon's new eAFK Evo texturing machine, which was unveiled to selected clients at the ITMA trade fair in Barcelona, has proven to be a breakthrough in the manufacture of yarns. This is evidenced by leading global yarn producer, Unifi Manufacturing, Inc., who placed a significant order for these revolutionary machines the first day of the trade fair.

With its active cooling technology, the eAFK Evo sets new standards in texturing.

Unifi collaborated with Oerlikon to develop a specially-designed eAFK Evo pilot machine that has been operating for the last eight months, using it to manufacture various Unifiber virgin and REPREVE®branded recycled polyester and polyamide yarns.

Unifi has obtained exclusive rights in the Americas to their unique design, which enables the new machine to operate at considerably higher texturing speeds, delivers consistently high-quality yarn across a broad range of products, and enables new, innovative performance yarns.

performance products with broad market appeal.”

Cost-efficient production, reduced energy consumption Additionally, Oerlikon will be exhibiting a configuration of the eAFK Evo texturing machine at ITMA designed for the cost-efficient production of commodity yarns. At just 4.7 meters in height, this compact machine still comes with a four-deck winding system. The most important foundation for both machines is the 300-millimeter-long EvoCooler with its active cooling technology. The EvoCooler's controllable cooling unit opens a huge production window, with titers ranging from around 30 to 300 denier and including microfilaments; combining it with the EvoHeater increases texturing speed by about 20 percent. The EvoCooler also enables extremely even yarn dyeing and provides significant benefits using no additional energy compared to current offerings. With the optimized, extremely energyefficient EvoHeater and its connected peripherals, the

“Unifi is proud to collaborate with Oerlikon Barmag on its innovative new texturing technology that is positioned to revolutionize yarn manufacturing,” said Tom Caudle, president and chief operating officer of Unifi. “True innovation starts in the fiber, and the new eAFK Evo texturing machine will allow us to continue our history of manufacturing excellence and provide our customers with an expanded portfolio of 23

JULY-AUGUST 2019

Convinced by the benefits of the new eAFK Evo texturing machine: Meredith Boyd (middle) and Edmir Silva from UNIFI Manufacturing, Inc., USA, (second from right to left). Unifi has made a significant contribution to the promising EvoCooler cooling concept within the context of a development partnership.

machine offers up to 25 percent energy savings.

Unifi yarns deployed worldwide Unifi, Inc. (NYSE: UFI) is a global textile solutions provider and one of the world's leading innovators in manufacturing synthetic virgin and recycled performance fibers. Through REPREVE®, one of Unifi's proprietary technologies and the global leader in branded recycled performance fibers, Unifi has transformed more than 16 billion plastic bottles into recycled fiber for new apparel, footwear, home goods and other consumer products with the help of Oerlikon Barmag texturing machines. The company's proprietary PROFIBER™ technologies offer increased functional performance, comfort and style advantages, enabling customers to develop products that perform, look and feel better. Unifi continually innovates technologies to meet consumer needs in

moisture management, thermal regulation, antimicrobial, UV protection, stretch, water resistance and enhanced softness. Unifi collaborates with many of the world's most influential brands in the performance apparel, footwear, outdoor, fashion, home, automotive and other industries. Since launching REPREVE®, Unifi and its partners have recycled more than 16 billion bottles, with a goal of recycling 20 billion bottles by 2020 and 30 billion by 2022.

Oerlikon exhibited REPREVE® yarns produced on the eAFK Evo pilot machine, along with fabrics made from the yarn, at the Oerlikon stand at the ITMA trade show in Barcelona. Among other areas, these sustainable yarns are used in the products of numerous companies operating in the apparel, outdoor, home textiles and automotive sectors.

24

Mayer & Cie. takes positive stock of ITMA 2019 Digital solutions and innovation carry conviction in a difficult market situation

A strong Mayer & Cie. ITMA team, including for the first time colleagues from the spare parts department.

For the circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. (MCT) this year’s ITMA ended with a satisfactory result. From 20 to 26 June 2019 the company had five machines on show at the leading industry trade fair in Barcelona. The industry leader’s focus was on sporting uses, with one exhibit dedicated to Mayer & Cie.’s innovative ideas. Digital offerings that Mayer & Cie. put together under the name knitlink rounded off the presentation. The platform includes a web shop, remote maintenance options and recording and evaluation of machine data for the customer and is to be further expanded in the future.

25

“In view of the current situation of the textile machinery market the 2019 ITMA was, by and large, satisfactory,” said Benjamin Mayer, one of Mayer & Cie.’s two managing partners and the director in charge of sales. “Very positive trade fair experiences included the response to our digital offerings and the feedback about our Weftnit machine study. We were evidently already able to demonstrate at the development stage the advantages of the knitting method convincingly.”

JULY-AUGUST 2019

Trade fair performance “long-term average” Since the middle of last year the international textile machinery market has sustained a marked drop in demand for a variety of reasons of which international trade policy is but one of many. That is why many exhibitors were eagerly awaiting the ITMA trade fair.

“Such a major trade fair is definitely capable of ushering in a turnaround,” Benjamin Mayer agreed.

“But it doesn’t seem to have done so yet. Even so, our trade fair result is in line with the long-term average.”

In Barcelona Mayer & Cie. exhibited five machines four of which focussed on sport. The new MJ 3.2 E is an electronic single jersey machine that specialises in the production of mesh and body mapping structures, both of which are very much in demand for sports- and athleisure fashion wear.

Weftnit – an innovation with a bright future Mayer & Cie.’s Weftnit machine study demonstrated how a long-established knitting method can be taken forward successfully into the 21st century. In contrast to a conventional circular knitting machine that uses latch needles, the Weftnit, inspired by weft knitting, uses bearded needles. That has advantages in stitch formation, which for one is much more gentle than when latch needles are used. For another, the stitch structure is finer than that of a conventional circular knitting machine with the same gauge. In addition, Mayer & Cie. expects the bearded needle technology to increase the machine’s production speed. “Our ITMA machine was initially equipped with 1.6 rather than the planned 3.2 systems and reached a speed of 20 rpm,” said Marcus Mayer, Mayer & Cie.’s technical director. “Yet the advantages of the Weftnit were plain to see – so much so that we were repeatedly asked when the machine would be available.” The answer to this question will have been less to the potential customers’ liking: “Sound development takes time.

We will probably not be presenting a production-ready Weftnit 3.2 until the 2023 ITMA.”

The OVJA 1.1 EETT’s sports focus is on the manufacture of shoe upper fabrics and sports outerwear. It combines double electronics and bidirectional transfer selection and can knit an almost infinite variety of patterns, including hole structures. It can also knit multi-coloured spacer fabrics. our performance for your profit The OVJA 2.4 EM makes a special contribution toward optimal post-sport regeneration. This new member of the OVJA family is the most productive machine in the market for the manufacture of mattress cover fabrics.

“As expected, interest in our new machines was keen,” Benjamin Mayer said. “The machines on show in Barcelona all found buyers. For the MJ 3.2 E we even received reservations for our entire scheduled output for 2019.”

An established machine with new features is the Spinit 3.0 E, which Mayer & Cie. exhibited at its third ITMA in Barcelona. The fact that the Spinit 3.0 E now also processes polyester, is capable of a higher working speed and is linked to the knitlink digital platform makes the spinning and knitting machine an even more attractive proposition.

26

knitlink makes good use of digital opportunities The long-established German firm aims to stay ahead of the competition not only by maintaining its technical lead and its innovative approach but also by putting digital opportunities to good use. The knitlink platform is tailor made to suit the needs of Mayer & Cie. customers. It allows the recording and evaluation of machine data. New service offers such as remote service and a more efficient collaboration via mixed reality glasses are also part of the package just like a web shop. Further aspects will soon be added.

“At times it seemed as if that was just what customers and business partners had been waiting for,” said Benjamin Mayer. “Interest in knitlink was really enormous.”

Going digital at ITMA 2019

ITMA 2019, the world's leading fair dedicated to textile machinery, is once again marked by a significant presence of German companies. More than 220 exhibitors from Germany including more than 110 VDMA member companies cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning, nonwoven, weaving, knitting, warp knitting and finishing. The overall exhibition space occupied by German machinery manufacturers is more than 21 thousand square meters, an increase of booth space by approximately 3.5 % compared to ITMA 2015.

Axel Pieper, CTO, Brückner Trockentechnik: “Software innovations around textile machines are becoming increasingly important in product development.

Our newly developed mobile machine operation panels and management cockpits have increased user-friendliness significantly.

Advanced production assistance systems support the operator to maximize production output at the lowest possible cost while maintaining a consistent high-quality level.

Our advanced service tools offer new features such as predictive maintenance, video tutorials and augmented reality support.”

VDMA members show in Barcelona most advanced technology solutions and applications of Industry 4.0 (also called Industrial Internet of Things for intelligent and integrated manufacturing) including Smart Services.

André Imhof, COO, Autefa Solutions: “Digitalization succeeds when the focus is on customer benefits. Our Service 4.0 covers all aspects of improving the bottom line of a production line during lifetime. Based on the availability of a permanent digital communication, Autefa Service 4.0 provides well-graded services for customer's benefit. Autefa Service 4.0 integrates tasks from wellknown daily jobs up to high sophisticated big data algorithms always focused on customer needs.”

During the VDMA press conference at ITMA, spokespersons of twelve renowned VDMA member companies showed how Industry 4.0 solutions are impacting the textile process chain. Here are their statements: Alexandre Butte, Director Business Development, ANDRITZ Perfojet: “ANDRITZ has pooled its relevant expertise to offer attractive digital solutions for existing and new plants under one technology brand: Metris. Metris technologies are the very latest state-of-the-art in the IIoT (Industrial Internet of Things) or Industry 4.0 sector and can be fully tailored to individual customer requirements.”

Dierk Dornieden, Head of Sales, Dienes Apparatebau: “The DIENES MultiMode® system is the I4.0 for research. All the functionalities of the MultiMode® allow the research institutes and the industry to reduce cost and to operate fast and flexibly in the development of new products.”

27

JULY-AUGUST 2019

Marcus Ott, Managing Director, Halo: “In our view the textile industry needs custom-tailored IT solutions to reach the highest level of data transparency – from fibre to finished product. Direct communication between man and machine does not only enable this consistently transparent presentation of all relevant data, but also gives employees flexible and, most importantly, mobile access to it.”

advances in autonomous vehicles and navigation systems that AGV's are necessary for the spinning mill future.

AGV stands for Automatic Guided Vehicles, a technology that has been around for years but has been fuelled recently by the introduction of Industry 4.0. Within shortest time, our team developed a state-of-the-art transport system using a large fleet of intelligently controlled automated guided vehicles. At ITMA Europe 2019 we will be presenting our AGV's to the specialist audience for the first time and are very excited about the response.”

Antonia Gottschalk, Managing Director, KM.ON, a software start-up company of Karl Mayer: “At ITMA we will build a bridge from machine building via applications and textiles up to the topic of Industry 4.0: We will show seven innovative machines, giving an insight into the „Future of Textiles“ and present new digital solutions of KM.ON. The products of our digital brand can be used by our customers and by other textile manufacturers to considerably improve their processes in all business units.

So, for example, the innovations include a first product belonging to k.production, by means of which it is possible to efficiently eliminate and analyse malfunctions during the production flow. Besides, our software start-up, KM.ON GmbH, has already set up first subsidiaries abroad, in Asia. In this way, we can sharpen the regional focus of our offers, at the same time receiving important stimuli for new developments from our main market.”

André Wissenberg, Vice President Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment: “Oerlikon invites all visitors to this year's ITMA on a journey into the future of manmade fiber production. We will show all our guests our vision of a sustainable and automated manmade fiber production in a spectacular virtual 4D showroom: "Clean Technology.

Smart Factory." is the motto of the future. And this is only a stone's throw away from reality at our booth. Today we are presenting four world premieres for efficient machine and plant concepts in a new, innovative industrial design.

Together with numerous other innovations, all this forms our new DNA.”

Sebastian Mayer, Member of the Management, Mayer & Cie.: “We aim to always be one step ahead. The digitization offers us valuable opportunities to stay true to our company principle, beyond the developments in technology.”

Andreas Hannes, Marketing Manager, Sedo-Treepoint: “Digitalization and the smart factory are big challenges for our customers – especially in dyeing and finishing, there is a high potential for savings and technological improvements. Sedo Treepoint as a market leader in dyeing and finishing automation has been providing innovative solutions to our customers for more than 40 years. Our new developments shown at ITMA are designed for the Smart factory and will help customers to strengthen competitive advantages. We are your Experts for process optimization!”

Klaus A. Heinrichs, Vice President, Monforts Textilmaschinen: “With the help of Monforts advanced sensor technology, all technical machine data are mapped in the cloud virtually and in real time. The data in the cloud indicate the current state of the system with its respective specifications and can map the entire production process, enabling targeted analysis and controlled planning and production: Insights harnessed from data analyses can be used to optimise the actual production process. The status overview in real-time improves machine availability while minimising downtime considerably. Potential sources of error can be anticipated and eliminated. The digital twin provides information on individual wear parts of a system, such as converters or gears, for example. In the future operators will be able to see how long a wearing part will last and when it has to be maintained or replaced ahead of time. Direct access to the integrated Monforts webshop allows users to order wearing and spare parts at the press of the button when they are needed, virtually preventing machine downtime.”

Dr. Christof Soest, CTO, Trützschler: “Excellent spinning preparation is crucial for yarn quality – and at Trützschler, I4.0 technologies help to make this process even smarter.

By integrating intelligent, self-optimizing machinery solutions and digital systems Trützschler enables customers to take a big step towards automation to ensure consistent quality.”

Future engineers ITMA is also an event for junior engineers. With the financial support of the VDMA, more than 300 students from eight technical universities take the chance to see high-tech live in Barcelona. An investment in the future of the sector that pays off.

Wilhelm Langius, Division Head, Neuenhauser Maschinenbau: “Neuenhauser saw with the recent

28

We imagine, build and integrate innovative textile systems for flooring qualities, home linen, fashion fabrics and technical textiles.

Sharing inspiration and expertise with our customers worldwide, we shape the textile industry of the future.

Creating success for them all, from yarn to finished product.

C A R P E T W E AV I N G M AC H I N E S V E LV E T W E AV I N G M AC H I N E S TUF TING SYSTEMS A D VA N C E D K N I T T I N G T E C H N O LO G Y YA R N E X T R U S I O N L I N E S A D VA N C E D H E AT- S E T T I N G JACQ UA R D S Y S T E M S HARNESSES WEF T INSERTION SYSTEMS F I N I S H I N G M AC H I N E S YA R N T R A D I N G Q UA L I T Y A S S U R A N C E F O R T E X T I L E S

www.vandewiele.com

P R O D U C T I O N M A N AG E M E N T

Italy A Major Player at ITMA 2019 ACIMIT Rewards Excellence In Textile Machinery Manufacturing With The Italian Green Label Award At the press conference held by ACIMIT and the Italian Trade Agency at ITMA Barcelona, two ACIMIT associated textile machinery manufacturers, Loptex and Tonello, were awarded the Italian Green Label Award for their commitment to reducing their machinery's carbon footprint.

The commitment of textile machinery manufacturers in researching and developing technology solutions capable of improving the energy consumption and/or environmental performance of their machinery is implemented through the Sustainable Technologies project. Promoted by ACIMIT since 2011, the project's focus is on the Green Label, through which machinery manufacturers can communicate their engagement. The quantity of carbon dioxide equivalent emissions produced during the operation of the machinery (CFP) is the parameter chosen to give value to the environmental efficiency of the machinery subject to the special labelling.

Eight years after launching the Sustainable Technologies project, which occurred right here in Barcelona at the 2011 edition of ITMA, ACIMIT has now instituted the Italian Green Label Award, to reward companies that have shown the most commitment in pursuing the project's aims. Loptex S.r.l., a company based in Montano Lucino (CO), specializing in quality control systems in textile fiber, both in the spinning and non-woven sectors, was awarded a prize as the company that achieved the best results, expressed in terms of percentage reduction in the value of CFP for its machinery. Tonello S.r.l., of Sarcedo (VI), which manufactures technologies for LOPTEX Loptex, a leading company serving the textile industry for more than 25 years, offers state of the art technologies for the fibres quality improvement in cotton and non-woven industries. Its assembly facility is in Northern Italy, Como Area. Loptex stands out for its pioneering vision and innovative spirit. Loptex guarantees excellent service and support to its customers.

finishing garments, for its part received the award as the company that showed the most engagement in exploiting all the functionalities of the tool dedicated to generating the Green Label, producing numerous labels for a variety of different machinery and updating them over time, in an effort to communicate continuously up-to-date information on the path to sustainability undertaken.

“With the Italian Green Label, ACIMIT intends not just to reward those companies that have been most intensely engaged in our project, but also bears witness to what we have achieved as a sector on the issue of sustainability,” states ACIMIT's President Alessandro Zucchi. “I believe that the search for sustainable technology solutions is an indispensable element for textile manufacturers who are intent of providing a response to the market's needs. And Italian machinery manufacturers are leaders on this issue as well.”

The winning companies expressed their satisfaction.

Renato Gerletti, owner of Loptex: “We're obviously very pleased to have received this award. The Italian Green Label Award recognizes just how much we have achieved so far on the issue of sustainability. It will to motivate us to do even more, dedicating additional resources to researching and developing sustainable solutions for our customers.”

Flavio Tonello, CEO of Tonello: “We have joined the Green Label project since its start. Tonello has always focused on sustainability in building our machinery, and our Research and Development team have always endeavoured to provide innovative, sustainable solutions.”

TONELLO Tonello is the global leader of garment finishing technologies that, since 1981, has been contributing to the success that made in Italy has enjoyed all over the world. Thanks to its cutting-edge machines and its one-of-a-kind service, it acts side by side with its customers creating a link between the stylists and the companies working, dyeing and finishing the garments.

30

JULY-AUGUST 2019

USTER launches five value modules for the Quality Management Platform at ITMA 2019

The future of quality management: preventive action Visitors to ITMA 2019 saw the present and future of textile quality management. A world in which substandard quality is actually prevented – instead of just being monitored and removed.

This new reality for mills enables data-based preventive control. It is delivered exclusively by Uster Technologies through USTER® QUALITY EXPERT, the ultimate Quality Management Platform. The system connects, integrates, analyses and interprets vital quality information from every stage of the fiber® to-yarn process. This analysis is based on USTER application know-how and produces alerts about exceptions and suggestions for fixing them, as well as improvements when necessary. ® At ITMA, five 'Value Modules' for USTER QUALITY EXPERT will be launched, after successful testing by customers around the globe. These modules will give spinners an objective and accurate view of the entire spinning process, leading to higher yields and consistent quality: 'Managing a textile mill with quality in mind' in practice.

Optimize ring spinning, control contamination – and much more 31

The five Value Modules will give tangible benefits to operators, quality managers and mill managers.

Ring Spinning Optimization (RSO) RSO focuses on the most costly part of yarn making – ring spinning – using data from USTER® QUANTUM 3 yarn clearers at winding and USTER® SENTINEL in ring spinning to ensure yarn quality stays constant, even at high speeds. Spinners can correlate end-breaks with winding data, as well as with fiber properties, in a single system. This results in an improved cop buildup quality, fewer quality variations and a reduction in alarms, delivering significant profitability increases to yarn producers. ® USTER RSO 3D extends this functionality to quality mapping of the ring frame, based on individual quality data for each spindle. This helps to identify outlier sides, sections or spindles. Through seamless collaboration with Muratec QPRO EX/FPRO EX spindle identification, USTER® QUANTUM 3 and USTER® SENTINEL, the system can stop faulty spindles or poor quality cops and so prevent poor quality. This reduces the workload for operators, while increasing quality assurance.

Total Contamination Control (TCC) The double protection by USTER® JOSSI VISION

Accurate forecasting of how yarns will perform in downstream processes brings security and confidence to both spinners and their customers. It means spinning mills can isolate below-par quality and remove it, sending out only yarn which meets customer specifications.

SHIELD and USTER® QUANTUM 3 gives spinners control over balancing quality and productivity – a transparency that enhances cost efficiency and maximizes profits. It means they can make good choices about raw cotton purchases and reduce waste of 'good' fiber. Optimizing ejections and cuts gives precise control over levels of contamination, ensuring the yarn meets customer demands.

Alarm center This provides direct guidance to machine operators, alerting the appropriate personnel and pointing them to the exact location of an issue. Knowledge from these alarms is stored and used for future reference, enabling even faster reactions.

Mill analysis Intelligent, data-based analysis by USTER® QUALITY EXPERT provides customers with an excellent overview of mill operations. Information is stored centrally, for easy access and total transparency. The result is savings in both time and money.

Yarn prognosis

Quality Management Platform for long-term business success By increasing productivity, the Quality Management Platform contributes directly to improved business security for textile producers. “The profitability and future sustainability of a textile mill depends a lot on the optimization of production and the predictability of produced quality,” says Thomas Nasiou, CEO of Uster Technologies. “Our customers are partners and we want to support them to stay successful and tackle challenges, by providing the best services and systems.”

Smart, efficient compressed air solutions for the textiles industry Kaeser Kompressoren proudly celebrates its 100th birthday in 2019 and, to mark this anniversary, will be showcasing the full extent of its expertise in the field of compressed air production and treatment at this year's ITMA. A host of innovations will be on show under the theme of “Tradition and Innovation”, demonstrating not only the most reliable, efficient and cost-effective compressed air supply solutions available, but also the increasing importance of 'Industrie 4.0' for the textiles industry.

High-efficiency compressors, economical air treatment systems, smart engineering and intelligent services are just some of the highlights that demonstrate what a modern, demand-oriented compressed air supply can look like when combined with expert planning.

You can even take a look into the future: using Smart

Engineering station simulations, it is possible to see how the compressed air system will perform when fully operational even before it has been built.

Furthermore, the new Sigma Smart Air service shows how servicing and maintenance works in the age of 'Industrie 4.0': Sigma Smart Air combines remote diagnostics with data-led predictive maintenance - a 32

JULY-AUGUST 2019

From planning to implementation, operation and optimisation, Kaeser always has the perfect 'Industrie 4.0' compressed air solution to meet your exact needs.

comprehensive, worry-free service package that not only saves the user both time and money, but which also ensures maximum compressed air availability. At the core of this futuristic concept is the Sigma Air Manager 4.0 in combination with the Sigma Network.

This intelligent master controller and the highperformance, self-contained network are the perfectly-matched prerequisite components for Kaeser's 'Industrie 4.0' package.

Efficiency, in every sense of the word, is a key priority at Kaeser, as is the company's commitment to responsible use of resources. To this end, all frequency-controlled rotary screw compressors will now feature a synchronous reluctance motor, which ensures lower losses - particularly in the partial load range – than an asynchronous motor and is therefore significantly more efficient. With flow rates from 1.1 to 17.5 m³/min, the CSD/CSDX series is the next machine range to follow in the footsteps of the ASD series by boasting up to 10% improved efficiency and entry into the world of minimal energy costs.

Should you require a dependable supply of quality compressed air using oil-free compression, then look no further than the FSG rotary screw compressor range. Together with i.HOC rotation dryers, these versatile compressors are not only highly efficient and economical, but are also able to deliver stable pressure dew points down to -30 °C. With available drive powers from 7.5 to 45 kW, Kaeser's innovative boosters are the perfect choice for

applications requiring higher pressures (up to 45 bar).

Compact, space-saving, low-vibration and superquiet; they are ideal complete systems and are also offered as frequency-controlled versions.

Needless to say, Kaeser Kompressoren also offers a comprehensive range of compressed air solutions for smaller compressed air requirements. i.Comp family reciprocating compressors are robust, powerful, compact, maintenance-friendly, highly efficient and much more besides: as one would expect, i.Comp machines are manufactured to Kaeser's renowned industrial quality standards and are also available as space-saving 'i.Comp Tower' all-in-one variants.

These compact systems represent a completely new compressed air supply concept that was specifically created with smaller compressed air demands in mind.

Furthermore, Kaeser Kompressoren is proud to announce expansion of its highly successful Secotec range of refrigeration dryers with the introduction of its latest innovation: the TG.2 series. Designed to provide application-tailored compressed air treatment for flow rates up to 98 m³/min, these next-generation dryers feature completely new thermal storage technology. All Kaeser Secotec refrigeration dryers are manufactured to assure maximum efficiency and energy cost savings. They are also charged with the new R 513A refrigerant, which means that these machines are future-proof for the duration of their service life regarding compliance with applicable fluorinated hydrocarbon emissions regulations.

33

Reaching for the stars with textile machines Reliable suppliers of automation technology ensure success

Ring spinning and compact spinning machines With ring spinning, new machine generations help reduce energy consumption and production costs.

Modular machine concepts increase flexibility with regard to the fineness of the yarn. The efficient ring spinning machines produced by the world market leaders can process both coarse and fine yarns as well as special yarns. Cost-efficient solutions reduce the investment costs per kilogram of yarn and thus increase the cost-effectiveness of ring spinning.

Compact spinning machines bind the edge fibres of a yarn completely into the yarn structure. Compact spinning machines with cutting-edge technology require only around 25% of the compacting energy of other comparable solutions. They eliminate the costs and effort required to replace worn compacting belts.

Yarn produced on these machines has very little hairiness.

The global demand for textiles is growing unchecked. Experts expect an increase from 80 million textiles a year today to 120 million in 2030.

Yet textile prices are falling. As a result, textile manufacturers are forced to keep cutting costs. For OEMs this means developing ever faster and more productive machines and plants. However, this can only be done with reliable and attractively priced components, such as from the Festo core product range. These are the “Stars in Automation Technology” – quickly available worldwide, durable and attractively priced.

Sturdy standard components Ring spinning and compact spinning machines as well as other textile machines typically require sturdy standard automation components. They provide reliable operation in the dusty environments caused by fibrous basic textile materials and also in the hot and humid tropical climate of the production countries in south-east Asia. Pneumatic cylinders from Festo such as the DSNU (round cylinder), DSBC (ISO cylinder) and ADN (compact cylinder) with the self-adjusting cushioning system PPS have demonstrated their proverbial durability millions of times over, both in the laboratory and in practical operation.

“Many manufacturers of textile machine have their development centres for pre-production machines in Europe. But their textile machines are assembled in production countries such as China or India. Closeness to customers therefore needs to be more than just an empty promise,” explains Bernhard Wolz, Key Account Manager for the textile industry at Festo.

That is why it is hugely important for the major machine manufacturers that their suppliers be close at hand all over the world – with products, spare parts, advice and services, and also with individual, customised product solutions. That is why the automation specialists from Festo with their industry expertise are travelling not just around Europe but especially in Asian countries with their vast stocks of textile machines.

The same applies to the valves VUVS and valve terminals VTUG from Festo. The pneumatic control circuit is completed with the flexible and modular service units of the MS series from Festo as well as suitable tubing and fittings. If a precise approach to positions is required, the solution of choice is the electric cylinder EPCO from the Optimised Motion Series, since it is just as easy to commission as a pneumatic cylinder.

34

JULY-AUGUST 2019

2200 components in the core product range The automation components mentioned are part of the Festo core product range. These "Stars in Automation" include over 2200 components from every phase of the pneumatic and electrical control chain – from compressed air preparation, valves and cylinders to accessories, such as matching tubing and fittings. With the core product range from Festo, textile machine manufacturers can realise around 80% of all applications effortlessly and quickly at attractive prices, even when large quantities are needed.

Fast availability worldwide Many of the components marked with the star are ready to be shipped just 24 hours after the order is received, while configurable products are ready for delivery within five days. All products in the core product range are available worldwide and with the same level of quality thanks to automated production at various decentralised locations in the core markets of Germany, China and the USA. There are further plants in India, Brazil, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Bulgaria and Switzerland. Distribution is also decentralised thanks to highly automated logistics centres in Germany, China and the USA, so 70% of all customers can be reached within one day.

Efficient production The hallmark of the latest components of the core product range is the collaboration between the design engineers and production planners at Festo. They worked closely together during the development of these products to ensure that the components can be manufactured in the Festo plants with a high degree of automation. For the new mini slide DGST, for example, the yoke and slide are manufactured fully automatically as a single part. In addition, the developers successfully reduced the number of components by 60% compared with the previous model. This enables the DGST to be produced in large quantities with maximum efficiency. This approach also allowed the cycle times for the guided drive DFM to be reduced by almost 50%. Festo plants can now produce a DFM every minute. Another example is the fully automated production line for the standard valve VUVG, which produces a fully assembled valve every 12 seconds.

35

New stars in the world of automation The current Stars in Automation have more to offer than their price and logistics advantages. The mini slide DGST, for example, is the smallest of its kind and the shortest slide drive on the market. However, it is strong when it comes to precision, forces, motion control, durability and reliability.

Other new Stars in Automation include the lightweight and compact cylinder ADN-S, which is produced almost entirely as one part and can perform small and micro-movements in the smallest of spaces. The regulators and filter regulators of the MS2 series service units are designed for use close to the process directly in the machine and for end-of-arm applications. They are lightweight and compact, but with high flow rates of up to 350 l/min. The tubing/fitting combination PUN-H/QS also ensures reliable compressed air supply in standard applications and in wet areas and is suitable for use in the food industry. These are just some of the more than 2200 products in the Festo core product range that offer quick availability worldwide at attractive prices.

Better delivery service In the case of high-performance machines such as rotor and air spinning machines, OEMs not only expect to be supplied with reliable standard components but also expect their automation suppliers to offer a wide range of services that will allow them to concentrate on their core competencies and develop their machine technology further. “They expect us to supply complete units such as mounting plates already fitted with valve terminals, service units and tubing,� reports industry expert Bernhard Wolz of Festo. Complete units such as a fully assembled DSBC cylinder with sensors, fittings and attachments can be configured online with the help of the Festo Design Tool 3D and ordered as a single unit.

The Festo Design Tool 3D is a 3D product configurator for generating Festo-specific CAD product combinations. This allows machine designers to generate and order product modules quickly, error-free and automatically in a CAD format. OEMs also attach great importance to customer specific tubing with special labelling and specific flow control valves.

Industry 4.0 investment by CHTC Fong's in China

CHTC Fong's CEO Ji Xin.

The CHTC Fong's teams at ITMA 2019.

36

JULY-AUGUST 2019

The CHTC Fong's Group is currently making a huge investment in the infrastructure and advanced automation technology required for manufacturing next-generation Industry 4.0 dyeing and finishing machines in China.

With sales of €399 million in 2018 and 4,500 employees worldwide, CHTC Fong's is currently the world's largest manufacturer of dyeing and finishing equipment.

It produces some 250-300 stenter frames and between 1,000-1,200 discontinuous dyeing machines every year, including those made by its European companies and brands Monforts, THEN, Fong's, Goller and Xorella, all of whom will contribute their know-how to the new developments in China.

Speaking during the ITMA 2019 textile machinery show held in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20-26, CHTC Fong's CEO Ji Xin said the company was making a very substantial investment in infrastructure in Shaoxing City, Zhejiang Province, as the base for its new subsidiary, CHTC Fong's Intelligent Printing and Dyeing Machinery.

CHTC Fong's has purchased some 76,000 square metres of land in Shaoxing City as the base for this new company, and in addition has recently completed the second phase of construction at its new Monfongs plant in Zhongshan, Guandong.

The new Zhongshan plant contains a dedicated Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) for customer trials, as well as a miniature smart dyeing factory.

“The trade wars that have recently been taking place between the US and China have had a significant impact on the world economy and led to uncertainty in the market, but we believe high efficiency, energy savings and environmental protection – enabled by full automation and smart manufacturing processes – are the way forward in the long term,” Mr Ji said. “Fully intelligent dyeing and finishing equipment will provide the high quality and inexpensive textile products of the future.”

New technologies presented at ITMA 2019 by the members of the CHTC Fong's Group included: Ÿ The new Monforts CYD yarn dyeing system, Montex stenter with integrated MonforClean exhaust air treatment and the latest texCoat coating unit. Ÿ The Fong's Tecwin hydraulic high temperature dyeing machine Ÿ The THEN Smartflow TSF hydraulic high temperature dyeing machine. Ÿ The Goller Knit Merc for the highest quality mercerization of knitted fabrics.

Advanced automation concepts for conditioning and heat setting from Xorella.

Abraham & Thakore to launch LENZING™ ECOVERO™ at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019 Thakore said, "This is an exciting opportunity for us to investigate and contemporize Indian clothing traditions through the prism of sustainable practices."

Commenting on the collaboration, Avinash Mane, Commercial Head, South Asia, Lenzing AG said, "We are pleased to introduce our sustainable viscose brand – LENZING™ ECOVERO™ at this season's Lakmé Fashion Week. Post the overwhelming feedback received on our past associations with our flagship brand – TENCELTM, we believe sustainable fashion has now evolved from being a conversation starter to many fashion brands adopting methods of using alternative fibre resources to create their products. A&T are one of the most reputed designers in the Indian fashion industry and through this collaboration; we hope to create a narrative around alternative fibre resources in prêt wear. We look forward to more associations with them in the future."

Talking about the initiative, Jaspreet Chandok, Vice President and Head of Fashion, IMG Reliance said, "Lakmé Fashion Week is happy to collaborate with LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM to contribute towards a greener planet and hope this innovation will turn into a movement which begun with our association with TENCELTM for the past 3 seasons. LFW has pushed the agenda towards sustainability for the past few years and we are glad that the conversation is developing strongly with brands and consumers now consciously adopting this narrative."

In an ode to Sustainable Fashion Day at this season's Lakmé Fashion Week, Abraham & Thakore will be presenting their latest collection celebrating the iconic Indian garment, the 'Kurta' using LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM , a sustainable and environmentally responsible viscose fibre as the Day 2 finale LENZING™ ECOVERO™ is an innovation by the Lenzing group, makers of TENCEL™ fibers. This will be the first showcase of LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM as a fibre ingredient at the Lakmé Fashion Week and their first collaboration with the designer brand to include a range for both men and womenswear.

The development of this collection starts with ECOVEROTM fibres used to produce fine sustainable fabrics. The inspiration behind this year's collection is to blend the old traditional carving and printing method with new-age technology to reinvent the timeless and customary Kurta – integrate the state of art manufacturing technology of ECOVEROTM fabric with the age-old textile wooden hand block printing.

LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM is a sustainable viscose brand manufactured only from certified and controlled wood sources and produced with significantly lower emissions and water than generic viscose. This is a substantial upgrade from normal viscose, which is known for its not so environment friendly production process. This ensures tailoring sustainable lifestyles choices, contributing to a cleaner environment.

Speaking about the collection, designers Abraham and 37

Santoni celebrates 100 years of technological revolution at ITMA 2019.

SANTONI SPA INNOVATORS SINCE 1919. finishing system for seamless boxers, and the innovative ‘K Fabric Project’ that introduces a completely new type of knitted textile process.

On the double storey 1400 sqm booth - in Hall 08 – C201 manufacturers of the most diverse textile sectors such as underwear, sportswear, beachwear, external, medical wear, denimwear, smart-textiles, socks and footwear can explore all the inventive and newly patented machines, innovative production processes and a dedicated product Trend Area.

Within the Seamless range of machines there is a technological re-vamp of the renown model SM8-TOP2V, with 4 models on display in diverse gauges. While the SM8-TR1S and the SM8-TOP4J have been completely up-dated and equipped with new structural elements and electronics.

In a special corner of the booth an SM8-TOP2V seamless machine has been expressively matched with Santoni’s new automatic finishing machine for boxers – creating a unique ‘Boxer Process Station’.

This cut and sew machine applies a gusset into each boxer with a 4-needle sewing head, so At ITMA 2019 Santoni celebrates 100 years of completing the whole process automatically, and offering the finished boxer ready for the final technological revolution, showcasing its very latest seamless circular packing stage. knitting machines, together with sock knitting machines, large diameter fabric knitting Also on show is the new TC CUT machine, a round-shape toe closer with an integrated slitting machines, and also process finishing machines.

Added to these are the brand new, patented ‘X device to prepare stockings for manual assembly.

MACHINE’ and ‘XT MACHINE’ with their The up-dated versatile Mec-Mor technology, ingenious intarsia technology, a new automatic Since 1919, Santoni, as the first Italian producer of circular knitting machines for men’s and women’s hosiery, and then the pioneer in seamless technology, has maintained its presence on the worldwide textile market thanks to continual technical research.

38

JULY-AUGUST 2019

with the type Cmp2/Open and type HP machines, are still the only machines on the market equipped with needle-shifting movement of the needle beds, (= racking) a bi-directional transfer on the same feed allowing variable widths of the knitted panel (= Variatex technology). MecMor is known throughout the world as the only alternative range of machines that look circular but perform like a V-bed machine.

This unique technology, displayed on 20 gauge, enables the production of weft doubleface knitted garments with high quality designs and record production times. This technology is also used to produce accessories, such as 3-D backpacks, where various yarns can be knitted into ad-hoc positioned areas, in order to obtain a seamless structure that guarantees superior product performance.

form, as well as offering unlimited patterns and colour combinations. This machine knits different sustainable fibre yarns into one-piece uppers, complete with eyelets, ready for immediate attachment to the sole. What’s more, each lightweight breathable upper is produced in record time.

Today, shoe manufacturers can benefit from the innovative Single-cylinder XT MACHINE INTARSIA electronic knitting machine with all the above intarsia features but also offering intarsia knit products with breathable mesh areas with cushioning and/or transfer-stitch points knitted in sculptured terry. This is the first INTARSIA machine in the world capable of producing transfer loops and sculptured terry on the same course.

The Mec-Mor can manufacture sportswear This machine is protected by more than 10 new performance garments, knitted men’s jackets and patents that Santoni have already filed and have various other eye-catching products, examples of been approved. which, are on show in our Trend Area.

These patents overcome all existing ones and Recently, acclaimed footwear brands have position this unique machine on the market to appreciated the wonderful shoe uppers created on make an exclusive new range of footwear the Mec-Mor bringing sharpness to high products.

definition patterns, and the flexibility to place logos and different structures practically anywhere within the shoe upper. It can create the shoe upper structure in a single operation, so reducing the seams usually prevalent in standard footwear production cycle.

The following two new models join Santoni’s world-famous range of sock knitting machines; Ÿ The new single cylinder machine with one feed Model HT 50 – produces heavy socks in terry with 4 colours plus ground on the same course.

There is the possibility of knitted or laid-in elastic Not resting on their laurels, Santoni has also for a single or double welt, or a 4-colour pattern designed the innovative and newly patented X double welt with tuck stitch. The knitted socks can be in plain mesh, normal/ sandwich/ sculptured MACHINE technology. and patterned terry.

This technology offers the possibility to knit countless Intarsia items for creating seamless, Ÿ The all new single cylinder machine with one knitted uppers using a revolutionary 3D intarsia feed and needles-in-the-dial model STAR S technology that maps the foot for perfect fit and produces high-quality socks in true rib, 5-colour 39

patterns, with knitted or laid-in elastic and sculptured terry. It offers a round trip selection when patterning. Also, 3 technical ways of knitting the heel with the needle being able to move with both forward and backward movements, increasing in this way the textile possibility of the final product. The heel can be shaped more independently without any mechanical constraint (without pickers). Thanks to the independent selection of the needles, the machine works in a reciprocating movement, enabling the heel to be placed anywhere on the sock. The "retractable butt" system improves the quality of the fabric, making it more uniform, creating a more superior end product.

plating quality and productivity versatility.

A dedicated area showcases the K FABRIC – PROJECT. This is a revolutionary process answering the requirements of the modern fast fashion market that demands customised, rapid and short production cycles.

It describes a new way of production within the fashion industry. It takes advantage of the Group’s circular knitting machines transforming the circular knitted meshes into a linear fabric, with incredible cost and fabric quality advantages.

This is the new frontier of a techno-mechanical sector that offers an opportunity for new styles and technological renewal with huge economic and strategical advantages.

Three large diameter machines, ZENITH HS, PULSAR Double Face, and ZENIT 2.4 JE mesh RP, will also be exhibited. Fine gauge is the strong point of these machines. This time fine gauge is used to knit a double face fabric, which allows the use of two different yarns, for true plating, keeping the fabric light. Besides fine gauge, there are two single jersey machines. One model is the only machine which can run a four- different knitting stitch construction. The other model maintains a perfect balance between productivity,

TREND-AREA On the ground floor a special pathway has been created to visually accompany and impress our visitors. Technical performance shirts, smarttextile items, new-concept garments, backpacks, a huge variety of socks, and unique footwear are all on display. A creative content to aid the discovery of all the innovative technological features coupled with their original, standard uses.

40

JULY-AUGUST 2019

Autoairo, the new game changer in air spinning, is the biggest attraction at the Saurer booth - Zagis is Saurer's first customer for this innovation

Mr Mayer Zaga Galante, CEO of Zagis shakes hands with Clement Woon, CEO of Saurer Group

The Autoairo air-spinning machine, which the innovation pioneer Saurer launched at ITMA 2019, is a sensation, because it defines new benchmarks in productivity, efficiency and especially automation in the lucrative air-spinning market.

The interest from visitors and the spinning industry in general has been overwhelming.

PilotSpin, test packages can be manufactured while the other spinning positions simply continue with normal production. LED strips at each spinning position signal, among other things, that cans need to be replaced soon. This ensures rapid intervention by personnel without the need for cumbersome tours of inspection.

The Autoairo has autonomous spinning positions with individual drives, integrated intelligence and a digital piecing unit. Twenty-four piecing operations can be carried out simultaneously with SynchroPiecing 24.

Compared to other machines on the market, the piecing capacity of the Autoairo is roughly twice as high. The Autoairo requires 40% less space than airspinning machines with a one-sided design. This means that spinning mills' floor area can be smaller, which reduces construction and air conditioning costs.

In this way, the return on investment is accelerated.

With MultiLot, up to four lots can be spun on the Autoairo at the same time. In addition, seamless lot changes during ongoing production are possible. With

Already on Thursday, on the first day of the exhibition, Saurer sold several Autoairo machines, the first one to Zagis, an innovative Mexican textile company, known for its use of cutting-edge technology. "The Autoairo combines the advantages of air spinning with the world's most advanced automation technologies," says Mayer Zaga Galante, CEO of Zagis. "Saurer's digitised single spinning position technology is a groundbreaking basis for intelligent automation. The Autoairo is highly competitive in every respect." Visit www.zagis.com for more information on this company.

41

Intelligent Embroidery Solution

by Saurer

Epoca 7 pro, the innovative embroidery system sets new standards Saurer presents the intelligent embroidery solution. At this year’s exhibition, we are proud to showcase a fully-fledged embroidery solution that offers a wide range of customisation options for customers. The Epoca 7 shuttle embroidery machine features enhanced automation technology and a new application device. It also incorporates modernised CAD/CAM design software and a new mill management system.

The embroidery machine Epoca 7 sets new standards in terms of productivity, with an increase of up to 25% compared to its predecessor. It also boasts a speed of up to 700 rpm.

The machine requires 5% less energy than its forerunner, even when machine speed is increased by 18%. In terms of savings, this gives the customer the edge to total cost of ownership. We are committed to sustainability and strive to ensure that our products are energy efficient, minimising the impact on the environment.

mending costs by up to 70%. In an environment where cotton is used, cotton dust pollutes the machine, resulting in early wear of the moving parts. With the new overhead cleaner – CleanGuard, this phenomenon is significantly reduced.

Enhanced application device The HeadLine system with sequin, cord and the new LaserHead redefines and pushes the boundaries of embroidery applications and designs. The laser technology drives the precise cutting of virtually all synthetic and natural fabrics.

Modernised CAD/CAM platform EmStudio incorporates all design workflow from sketch to production on a single platform. This modern tool provides the full solution from embroidery drawing, punching, visualisation of the design, product optimisation and productivity analysis to archiving design with information and machine settings. The intelligent stitch editor iSed optimises the quality of embroidery stiches.

Automation solutions The new automatic rear carriage adjustment helps in reducing the machine setting time. The rear carriage width can be set automatically according to the yarn properties, resulting in a substantial reduction in yarn breaks. The intelligent thread watcher SmartMon drives the precise and fast detection of yarn breaks, on both shuttle and needle side, which drastically lowers

New mill management system Senses Senses is a new innovative control and analysis tool.

Senses allows to collect and analyse the production, quality and machine data. The advantage is total transparency and the optimization of production processes. The result is enhanced efficiency and increased profitability.

42

JULY-AUGUST 2019

LUWA at ITMA 2019 Clean air is a cornerstone for sustainable production, and Nederman's products and solutions improve production efficiency, reduce environmental impact and protect employees from harmful dust, smoke and fumes. The Luwa brand and team will continue as before, and their high quality solutions add to the Nederman Group's capabilities in the strategically important global fiber and textile market.

VISION 2025 THE FUTURE OF CLEAN AIR IS HERE Nederman celebrates its 75th anniversary in 2019.

From the very beginning, the business idea was clean air. Today, the environment and sustainability are more relevant than ever and the demands are increasing to contribute actively to more efficient production and reduced emissions in industry. The next generation of solutions for clean industrial airflows is under develment. And Nederman is at the forefront of this development.

95% ARE BREATHING POOR QUALITY AIR The Health Effects Institute (HEI) in Boston, USA is a non-profit organisation financed by public and industry sector funds with the aim of conducting research and evaluation of the effects of air pollution on health. In its report State of Global Air 2018, HEI states that “Clean air is becoming a rare luxury: Only 5% of the world's population breathe clean air�.

Conversely, this means that 95% of the world's approximately 8 billion inhabitants are breathing air that does not reach international health standards.

These are of course alarming figures, but for

Nederman, this signifies that our business is more important than ever, and that the demand for solutions for efficient cleaning of air will continue. It gives us the energy to invest further in research, development and acquisitions in order to maintain our position as world leader in our industry. Source: HEI: State of Global Air 2018 FOCUS ON INDUSTRY EFFICIENCY Increasing populations, and increased trade and technological development will inevitably lead to increased demand for goods and products that involve industrial production. It is naturally vital for industry to produce in an environmentally and sustainably acceptable manner, but it is equally important to streamline production for economic reasons. And this is where clean air plays a key role.

A Dust and fumes significantly shorten the life of expensive machines and other production equipment A In addition, the presence of dust and fumes adversely affects product quality B 610 highest efficient Fan in Textile Industry

Team LUWA at ITMA 2019 from left to Right Tomas Hagstrom, Sr.VP & Head Process Technology Division (Centre) flanked in left by Ulf Mattisson CEO Luwa and in right by P K Singh, President Luwa India at ITMA 2019 43

B610 highest efficient Fan in Textile Industry •50 to 70 % of electrical power of atextile air conditioning plant isconsumed by axial flow fans •Luwa focuses on conserving energy of the equipment used in airconditioning plants

B610 highest efficient Fan in Textile Industry •Adapted fan design for range of operation in textile air conditioning plants •Wide range of fan dimeters and numbers of blades to select alway son best efficiency •Selection software which selects always on best efficiency point •Luwa fan test stand as per ISO norm

TexGuard® System – Integrated Fire Protection •Required for silos in bale presssystems, in blowroom lines andfilter plants •Sensitive spark sensors •Fast acting discharge flap •Container with spark extinguishing

44

JULY-AUGUST 2019

Compact Filter Unit (CFU) with MultiCell Filter MCV

MCV Filter – 80% Space Saving versus LDF Filter

MultiCell filter MCV, Height 3.6m, Width 3.0m, Depth 1.2m

Rotary air filter LDF, Diameter 3 m, length 5.1 m.

In Picture without filter media

Comparison

Rotary filter LDF 30/51 Effective filter area: 40.5 m2 Air capacity 145,000 m3/h Space requirement: W:4500mm, H:3800mm, L:6400mm

MultiCell MDV 1-19 Effective filter area: 48 m2 Air capacity 145,000 m3/h Space requirement: W:3040mm, H:3600mm, L:1200mm

45

Immersion UV Lamp increases Air Washer Hygiene

LoomLite increases Energy- and Work Efficiency

Service and after Market

By offering qualified service with good availability,Luwa helps to ensure continuous operation without expensive interruptions to customers production in addition to technical service contracts, spare parts and consumables

46

JULY-AUGUST 2019

CYD is a big hit with 'Denim Triangle' visitors at ITMA 2019 The new Monforts yarn dyeing technology is being made commercially available at exactly the right time for fabric differentiation and cost efficiencies, if the initial market reaction at ITMA 2019 is anything to go by.

The new CYD system is available for demonstrations Convincing results from the new CYD system. and trials at the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

Econtrol® Monforts CYD denim technology is based on the Econtrol® technique* – the most effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing.

Econtrol® is a pad-dry process employed in Monforts continuous dyeing in which the reactive dyestuff is fixed to the cellulose fibres during drying.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG was inundated with requests for trials on its new CYD yarn dyeing pilot line by the leading denim manufacturers at ITMA 2019.

Details of the new CYD system were issued just prior to the 'Textile Machinery Olympics', which took place in Barcelona, Spain, from June 20-26, and throughout the seven-day show, the company received a constant stream of visitors, particularly from the so-called 'Denim Triangle' – Bangladesh, India and Pakistan – seeking further information.

The fixing medium is a controlled by a steam/air mixture within the Monforts Thermex unit. With sulphur and reactive dyes in particular, the improvement in both dyed fabric quality and dye fixation is considerable, and with significant savings in energy and time due to the combined bleaching and padder fixation. The use of the Econtrol T-CA technique opens a further step ahead by dyeing yarn blends of cotton/polyester etc.

“It was non-stop,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski. “Competition in the denim industry is currently fierce, and the major players are looking for technologies that will really give them the competitive edge, which we know this technology can provide, because it was developed in response to an already very strong demand from the market. We have a fullyoperational line now installed at our ATC (Advanced Technology Centre) at our headquarters in Germany and it's already now heavily booked out.”

Weaving preparation The CYD system also integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity.

47

Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski provides details of the new CYD during ITMA 2019.

The multi-colour yarn dyeing system introduces a number of new concepts, including the unique Eco Bleach process.

single continuous process. By comparing the usual processing sequences within the denim industry with the new CYD system, the advantages become immediately clear.

“We are now anticipating a very busy period,” Hans Wroblowski concludes. “This new technology has the potential to really move the global denim industry forward.” * Econtrol is a registered trademark of Dystar Colours Distribution GmbH.

This is the first bleaching system for yarn treatment available on the market and is combined with the washing units, after which the fabric is then dyed immediately, resulting in considerable savings in wastewater and chemicals.

It is also possible to process short batches of yarn in order to produce minimum runs of finished fabrics in a

The ever-busy Monforts stand at ITMA 2019.

48

JULY-AUGUST 2019

Stäubli highlights attracted many visitors at ITMA 2019

TIEPRO warp tying machine Featuring Active Warp Control technology for precise yarn management

LXXL electronic Jacquard machine Available in formats up to 25,600 hooks

Stäubli had two booths at ITMA Barcelona where it presented a selection of its latest products from its extensive range of textile machinery. Many machines were impressively demonstrated in operation. A number of additional Stäubli solutions for frame and Jacquard weaving could be seen at other booths throughout the weaving hall, all displaying the speed, quality, and efficiency for which Stäubli is renowned.

With core competencies in shedding machinery (cam motions, rotary dobbies and Jacquard machines) and weaving preparation (drawing-in, leasing and warp tying), Stäubli plays an important role in the design and quality of woven end-products. Based on over a century of experience in the traditional textile industry and its continuous R&D activities, Stäubli constantly offers new and improved high-performance systems and solutions for processing fabrics for fashion, home textiles, automotive, protection and carpet solutions, as well as highly complex technical textiles.

Visitors to the booths learned about Stäubli's vision for Industry 4.0 and how this development offers a chance to further intensify customer and partner relationships.

They also learned how Stäubli's machinery and systems can boost their mill's weaving performance and overall efficiency. Stäubli machinery represents a 49

long-lasting valuable investment offering an attractive ROI due to the extended service life of the equipment, long-term spare parts availability, and swift and comprehensive worldwide service.

Highlights amongst the products exhibited in the weaving hall included the following: · New TIEPRO warp tying machine This new machine features extremely fine mechanical precision supported by high-performance digital technology. Weavers profit from the unique yarn separation process, the auto-reverse function, and automatic double-end detection. · SAFIR S60 automatic drawing-in system with Active Warp Control Stäubli's exclusive yarn-repeat management system, known as AWC, is an ingenious technology that makes for more first-quality output and boosts the overall productivity of the weaving department. · New S1792 cam motion for air-jet applications This high-speed cam motion features 10 levers and uses the new e32/e33 harness motion for even higher performance.

N4L name selvedge Jacquard machine Available in two formats (80 or 128 hooks)

· NOEMI, a revolutionary electronics concept The full range of LX/LXL/LXXL series of Jacquard machines for flat, terry, and velvet fabrics is now equipped with NOEMI, a new electronics concept.

Compact, reliable, and suited to very large format machinery, NOEMI meets the requirements for highspeed weaving and handling the very high number of hooks to be lifted. · NEW N4L name selvedge Jacquard machine Easy positioning over the whole reed width, reengineered quick links for quick style changes, and robust construction with Jacquard heads protected by aluminium beams are just three of the many advantages offered by this new machine for name selvedge weaving. It is an ideal way for weavers and haute couture brands to protect their valuable woven fabrics.

· TF weaving system for technical fabrics The Stäubli TF weaving system was set up in another dedicated area where the collection of technical carpet samples illustrated the broad range of possibilities this system offers in weaving ultra-complex fabrics. · D4S automatic toe-closing device Visitors to Stäubli's booth in the knitting hall watched this revolutionary device rapidly sew perfectly smooth seams to close the toes of high-quality sports socks.

The D4S drastically reduces sock manufacturing time.

With its two booths, Stäubli provided a broad overview of its range of solutions for future-oriented weaving mills and sock knitters. These solutions are fully in line with the company's vision of converting high-tech mechatronics into attractive products, services, and solutions that meet customers' requirements. Stäubli has been living out its vision of innovation for 127 years and makes its passion for fast · ALPHA 500 Series moving technology a reality every day. The With its Schönherr carpet systems, Stäubli showed a continuous flow of innovative products brings back machine featuring two LX2493 carpet Jacquard heads, satisfied customers around the globe again and again – a new model of the UNIVAL 500 series of frame and constantly attracts new customers who want to shedding machines handling 6 pile colors, a 4+4 weft excel in their markets. selector, and various other interesting options. In a ITMA 2019 was an ideal platform for Stäubli experts dedicated room, visitors observed how innovation, and customers to discuss the benefits and potential of automation, and digitization support increased carpet Industry 4.0 and digitization. This technology is output. The exhibit was completed by a carpet slider already part of Stäubli's daily business and it enhances which allowed visitors to explore the many design Stäubli's drive for continuing innovation and possibilities offered by the flexibility of ALPHA maintaining its leadership position. The trade fair machines. Visitors could also touch and feel a variety facilitated sales contracts and significant new business of carpet qualities, including a high-density carpet opportunities around the globe, making ITMA 2019 a displaying a very sharp image of the Sagrada Familia great success for Stäubli and its customers and cathedral with more than 4 million points/m2. partners.

50

JULY-AUGUST 2019

Québec's textile industry is one of the key sectors of Québec's economy and continues to excel through the remarkable advances it has achieved in the development of value-added technical materials

Dany Charest, General Manager, TechniTextile Québec.

1. What are the strengths of Québec's textile and apparel sectors?

manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers, distributors and designers, it is a strategic pillar of Québec's economy, generating more than 83,000 jobs.

Québec's textile industry is composed of 420 companies specializing in the manufacture of textiles, textile-based apparel and knitwear products. The industry, which produces more than 50% of Canada's textiles, stands out because it has a wide range of capabilities. It has been one of the key sectors of Québec's economy for more than 150 years and continues to excel through the remarkable advances it has achieved in the development of value-added technical materials. The textile industry employs more than 12,000 people.

Montréal is one of three North American leaders in apparel manufacturing, along with Los Angeles and New York. The fashion industry in Québec generates sales of CDN$8 billion in manufactured goods and in wholesaler-distributor sales. With more than 1,850 players, including

Technical textile materials can be found in a wide range of products from different sectors, including agriculture, furniture, construction, packaging, environment, civil engineering, industrial processes, medicine, protection, sports, transport and clothing.

The textile and apparel sectors are governed and supported by well-established organizations – working closely with the Government of Québec – to fuel their growth. Ÿ TechniTextile Québec and mmode: Key responsibilities include the strategic development of the sector. Ÿ Groupe CTT and Vestechpro: The research and expertise centres support the technological development of industry members.

51

Ÿ CSMO Textile is responsible for the development of labour skills.

The need for specialized products is growing at an unprecedented rate. Industry members are now developing more and more products dedicated to a particular use versus generic solutions that the customer has to adapt himself.

This remarkable innovation ecosystem works together with the industry to ensure its sustainability and long-term development.

4. How will Industry 4.0 and Québec's textile and apparel sectors redefine the market? If possible, please include the names of technology providers.

2. What are the reasons behind the successful position of Québec's textile and apparel sectors?

The development of technical and added-value materials helps position Québec companies for future growth while enhancing their competitiveness globally. Ÿ Companies incorporate technical and value-added properties to traditional textiles to differentiate themselves from the competition. Ÿ Technical textiles, recognized for their functionality and high performance, are used in the production of various products, including high-performance technical yarns, hoses (for use in the gas and oil, firefighting, mining, aviation and snow-making industries), custom hoses for aqueduct repairs, automotive, aviation and industrial webbing, finished knit mattress fabrics, value-added laminated and coated textiles, clothing and accessories for pilots, non-woven fabrics for specialized geotextiles, liquid and air filtration, acoustical panels and absorbent and hygiene products. Ÿ Value-added textiles are made from traditional textiles and processed using advanced technologies to improve their properties. They are used in the production of antimicrobial, protective, intelligent and ultra-comfortable sportswear and textiles. Ÿ Companies participate in trade fairs and missions, such as ITMA, in order to stay abreast of the evolution of textile materials, technological and manufacturing advances, increasingly high-performance equipment that can support them in their 4.0 shift, the latest trends, etc.

Mass customization accentuates the need for equipment and processes with increased flexibility. On-demand access to data is critical to reduce time to market and the on-time delivery of products.

Intelligent and connected products are also a way forward Industry 4.0. CTT Group's experts assist companies in the development of these products. Thanks to these advances, the sector will now be able to connect its products to technological platforms and become an information provider instead of producing a stand-alone product.

In order to assist companies in the development of intelligent products and processes, the Ministère de l'économie et de l'innovation du Québec financially supports the development of 4.0 diagnostics and an action plan fully aligned with their operational and strategic objectives. Several companies in Québec are taking advantage of this unique opportunity and have embarked on this journey.

5. Which are the most promising present and future markets? What are your future plans for international markets?

The personal protective equipment, construction, furniture and environment sectors demonstrate a strong potential for growth.

Canada and Québec are well positioned to benefit from reshoring opportunities.

The Canada-European Union (EU) Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement (CETA) helps companies in strengthening economic relations and boosting business and trade with the world's second-largest market.

Québec's geographical proximity to its strategic markets is a major competitive advantage. Customers are inclined to work with suppliers located close to their facilities to facilitate product development and continuous improvement.

3. What does it take to achieve such high-quality textile and apparel products?

6. How can the Canadian economy benefit from Québec's textile and apparel sectors?

Quality means that the products manufactured are designed to meet the customer's needs, delivered on time and sold at a price in line with customer's expectations. Profit margins must allow companies to invest in process improvement.

Québec's textile industry includes 420 companies specialized in the manufacture of textile materials, textile products and knitted clothing. The sector provides 12,400 direct jobs and over 35,000 indirect jobs. In 2017, over 30% of Canada's textile mills were located in Québec. The industry produces more than 50% of Canada's textiles.

Today, Québec's textile industry members work directly with end users, eliminating intermediaries. This new approach fosters enhanced design thinking, which leads to global solutions versus products.

52

JULY-AUGUST 2019

TECHNOLOGY

Saurer's contribution to mankind's giant leap, the moon landing

Close-up of the patch showing stitch detail.

Designed by the Apollo 11 crew, the mission patch features a bald eagle, the national bird of the USA. The olive branch in its talons symbolises a peaceful mission.

The Apollo 11 mission patches were produced on Saurer's 2S-55 machines. Launched in 1955, this innovation served as a yardstick for the industry for almost two decades.

Fifty years ago, people around the globe watched in awe as a human being stepped onto the moon's surface for the first time. We have a little-known connection to this occasion, which marked the start of a new chapter in space exploration.

pioneering mission. Superb quality has always been a distinguishing feature of our customers' products,” states Efthimios Katsidis, General Manager Saurer Embroidery.

On 20 July 1969, Neil Armstrong became the first person to set foot on the moon. As the world commemorates the 50th anniversary of this event, we consider the small but significant contribution our company made to this momentous occasion, made possible through the expertise of our customer.

Saurer's partnership with apparel branding innovator Lion Brothers, based in Owings Mills, Maryland, USA, lasted seven decades. Already in 1967, the company had become the first to supply the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) with embroidered mission patches, starting with Apollo 1.

Using Saurer's 2S-55, the most advanced embroidery machine of the time, Lion Brothers produced the shoulder patch for Apollo 11, the mission that resulted in two astronauts reaching the moon.

“We are proud to have made a contribution to this 53

At the time, punched tape was used to program embroidery machines. An image six times the size of the design, called the cartoon, was produced. The puncher then recorded the X and Y coordinates on the paper tape by punching holes into it. The creation of the cartoon and digitising process were both manual.

In the case of the Apollo 11 mission patches, the government contract with Lion Brothers dictated that all cartoons and punched tapes had to be destroyed once production was complete. This means that any such patches produced subsequently are copies.

“As science and technology keep developing, we are eager to see our customers pushing boundaries and using our machines to serve clients in new industries and in unprecedented ways,” says Efthimios Katsidis.

“Who knows, perhaps embroideries or technical textiles created on Saurer machines will play a role in the first manned mission to Mars.”

VEOCEL™ Launches New Certification Criteria to Elevate Sustainability and Biodegradability in Personal Care and Beauty Products

Ÿ With the new certification scheme for its VEOCEL™ branded fibers, Lenzing establishes its fiber brand as a label of trust for eco-conscious consumers. Ÿ Only personal care and beauty products made from 100% cellulosic and biodegradable fiber materials are now qualified to feature the VEOCEL™ logo. Ÿ By featuring the VEOCEL™ logo on their products, brands and retailers enable consumers to make ecoconscious product choices simply at a glance.

Lenzing Group (Lenzing) unveiled the new co-branding certification criteria for its specialty nonwoven ingredient brand - VEOCEL™. From 1 July 2019, the VEOCEL™ logo will only be featured on personal care and beauty products made from 100% cellulosic and biodegradable fiber materials. This is an industry-first approach to establish a fiber ingredient brand as a label of trust, which aims to facilitate consumers in identifying sustainable nonwovens personal care and beauty products such as wipes, moist toilet tissues and facial sheet masks.

Worldwide efforts advancing towards eco-friendly plastic alternatives have skyrocketed in recent years, as different stakeholders are eager to make a difference in their field of expertise. For example, the 2019 United Nations Environmental Assembly commenced in a Ministerial Declaration to significantly reduce single-use plastic products by 2030 and move closer to environmentally friendly alternatives. When it comes to personal care products, fiber transparency becomes an important benchmark in determining the sustainability of products such as wipes and facial sheet masks. The soon-to-be published European Union Single-Use Plastics Directive had identified wipes as one of the ten most polluting items found on European beaches and calls for clearer marking requirements, which shall disclose the presence of plastic materials in wipes and disposal options on the product packaging. Lenzing, as a nonwovens fiber producer and advocate for sustainability, has taken an industry first step to enable consumers to make eco-conscious choices. Brands and retailers who intend to feature the VEOCEL™ logo on their personal care and beauty products may now only use blends of raw materials that are entirely cellulosic and

54

biodegradable. Such valiant move further represents Lenzing's commitment to offer sustainable solutions for consumers who would like to enjoy the convenience of single-use products with a clear conscience.

Reinforce the VEOCEL™ brand promise and the new certification criteria “Natural circularity” – the brand promise of VEOCEL™, is based on three main pillars: botanic origin, environmentally sound production and biodegradability. VEOCEL™ branded fibers are made from the renewable raw material wood and produced through environmentally responsible processes. The fibers are fully biodegradable, endowed with the ability to break down safely and quickly and fully revert back to nature after disposal. VEOCEL™ branded products range from fibers in personal care and beauty wipes, moist toilet tissues to facial sheet masks. The introduction of new certification criteria further upholds the VEOCEL™ brand’s label of trust promise, allowing only 100% cellulosic and biodegradable materials such as LENZING™ branded viscose, cotton and wood pulp to blend with VEOCEL™ branded fibers. Such stringent measures safeguard the label of trust commitment and benchmark of the VEOCEL™ brand, and consumers can be ensured that VEOCEL™ co-branded products are free from fossil-based materials and bio-plastics.

“VEOCEL™ promises to bring the essence of nature into nonwoven products through the beneficial properties of cellulosic fibers, and continues to combat against the use of synthetic materials which have a negative impact on our environment. The new certification criteria provide consumers with a label of trust that allows informed and sustainable product choices,” said Jürgen Eizinger, Vice President of Global Business Management Nonwovens, Lenzing AG. “As we gear towards the second half of 2019, Lenzing will continue to innovate and drive consumer awareness on fiber transparency of nonwovens products and we are excited for what’s yet to come. Amidst the challenging industry environment, we are confident that our brand partners will support the new co-branding criteria and continue to work closely together to create a greener future.”

JULY-AUGUST 2019

TECHNOLOGY Atlas Copco launches five new air compressors across industry segments

Atlas Copco — the home of industrial ideas, launched five new specially designed products in the air compressor segment for the Indian market, providing an edge to small and medium scale business units. This new range includes piston air compressors, screw air compressors, and on sitenitrogengenerator series to cater to the changing demands of customers from different sectors across India. The key industry segments which will benefit from these compressed air solutions are food and beverages, cement, textile, foundry & forging, general engineering, metal, auto & ancillaries, paper and many more.

This range of new innovative products will enhance customers' productivity and help reduce energy consumption. Amongst the five products, GA 75-110 VSD+ is a variable speed drive oil-injected screw air compressor which is an ideal choice for fluctuating demands of customer applications and can save upto 50% of energy costs. GA 75-110 VSD+ has integrated Elektronikon® - most intelligent microprocessor for advanced monitoring , control and connectivity, thus providing customers peace of mind by remaining connected with the machine at all times It has a magnetically fixed pre-filter that enables the application for handling high dust. G 15-22 and GA 15-22, are fixed speed oil-injected screw air compressors withtherevolutionary new screw element. These products are intended to reduce energy consumption and offer higher uptime and reliability.

55

The cast iron piston series, ATC, ranging from 3 hP to 10 hP is coupled with IP55 motor that is known for reliability and can function in operating temperatures up to 46 degree C. The product has a low foot print and low noise.

In Nitrogen generator segment, Atlas Copco's new NGMs 1-3 membrane technology units offer efficient, compact and simple low-cost on-site solution for lowflow N2 requirements with benefits of minimal maintenance and operational costs. These generators come with a wall mounting option as well.

Conrad Latham, General Manager, Compressor Technique, Atlas Copco India said, “Atlas Copco believes that the growth of our customers is our oxygen. True to the commitment to 'Make in India', we are introducing arange of new products built at our state-of-the-art Chakan factory at Pune..The new range of air compressors in piston and screw technologies are a result of Atlas Copco's continued commitment to work with manufacturing companies to reduce their energy bills in line with the governments focus onenergy efficiency.”

The company also offers a wide range of marketleading compressed air, including oil-free screw air compressors, screw blowers, scroll air compressors, tooth air compressors, turbo air compressors, waterinjected screw air compressors, reciprocating air compressors, and much more.

Successful ITMA 2019 for Lawer Dosing and Dispensing Systems

Automatic powder:dyestuff weighing Operation Supercolor is a fully automatic weighing system, allowing safe and clean recipes preparation with total control of the results.

The system consists of a number of independent storage silos, installed in line on a modular structure. A weighing trolley incorporating the electronic scale is automatically transported to the correct silo position. Each module can accommodate up to 10 standard silos 150 L capacity or 5 double silos 300 L capacity.

The silos are loaded by means of a vacuum system.The bottom section of each silo is equipped with an efficient combined screw/vibration dispensing device (Lawer patented) which allows to dispense rapidly and accurately the powder dyes. The bucket loading / unloading takes place automatically.

An efficient suction / filtering device guarantees the maximum safety of use and a clean working environment.The system operates by means of a dedicated Lawer Software.

dry air blowing system Refill system vacuum pump for the product transfer into the silo suction hoses, independent on each silo bar-code cross-check system auto-cleaning filter on each silo Dosing system screw-vibration dosing system for high accuracy controlled dispensing flow by brushless motor drive motor installed on the weighing trolley Weighing trolley weighing trolley with self-levelling scale support platform (Lawer patented) electronic scale 0.01 gr resolution dust exhaust filter system software with possibility to be interfaced with external systems

ADVANTAGES AND BENEFITS Supercolor Accuracy-repeatability-/traceability / full automation of powder dyestuff weighing / elimination of weighing errors / repeatability of the recipes / traceability of the operations / fast and accurate weighing / elimination of contaminations and pollution / safe and healthy working environment with no risk for the operators / clean working environment / possible integration with dissolving-dispensing systems / possible integration with external software Systems Characteristics Storage silos independent PRFV storage silos 150 L capacity stainless steel silos 300 L capacity available anti-clogging device and

At the recent ITMA Lawer have finalized an order for high precision full automatic weighing system for powder dyestuff “SUPERCOLOR” with ASHWATH INC TIRUPUR – India .

Within the photos are Mr. SATHYA – Director – of ASHWATH celebrating the event with Mr Vallerion Zaffalon of Lawer and Mr. GUNA and Mr. PREM of KNIT-FAB, agent of Lawer .

Then “ SILOS COL “ the latest innovation presented by LAWER, a powerfull (with accuracy) automatic bulk powder dyestuff dissolving and dispensing system .

No doubt ITMA has been a great success for Lawer determined by highly professional delegates from the World.

56

JULY-AUGUST 2019

35(0,(5 35(0,(5

70

WHVWHU 7KH 4XDOLW\ ([SHUW 0RUH WKDQ DQ (YHQQHVV

35(0,(5 ZLWK LQQRYDWLYH IHDWXUHV DQG XQLTXH JUDSKLFDO UHSUHVHQWDWLRQ XQYHLOV WKH NQRZOHGJH

EDVH RI WKH IXWXUH WKH 4XDOLW\ ([SHUW DQDO\VHV WKH WHVW GDWD WURXEOHVKRRWV WKH H[FHSWLRQV DQG SURYLGHV D UHDG\ WR XVH SODWIRUP RI XQULYDOHG .QRZOHGJH EDVH WR DFFHOHUDWH WKH SURFHVV RI XQGHUVWDQGLQJ DQG FRUUHFWLYH UHVSRQVH WLPH

,QWHOOLJHQW $OHUWV

,QWHOOLJHQW DOHUW SURPSWV WKH

XVHU WR ORRN LQWR VSHFLILF ¶H[FHSWLRQV· ZKLOH WHVWLQJ

'UDIWLQJ :DYH $QDO\VLV

$XWRPDWLF DQDO\VLV RI WKH GUDIWLQJ ZDYH WR LGHQWLI\ WKH GHIHFWLYH GUDIW ]RQH

+\SHU 6HQVLWLYH ,PSHUIHFWLRQV 7KLQ

7KLQ 7KLFN DQG 1HSV RSHQV XS

7KLFN

QHZ SURFHVV FRQWURO

1HSV

SRVVLELOLWLHV

9/ &XUYH $QDO\VLV

$XWRPDWLF 9DULDQFH /HQJWK 9/ &XUYH DQDO\VLV RI WKH GHIHFWLYH 6SLQQLQJ SURFHVV GHSDUWPHQW

2

6HQVLWLYLW\

,PSHUIHFWLRQ 'LVWULEXWLRQ

7HVW /HQJWK P

,QGHSHQGHQW GLVWULEXWLRQ FKDUWV IRU 7KLQ 7KLFN DQG 1HSV HQDEOH WKH XVHU WR YLVXDOLVH ZKHWKHU WKH IDXOW LV FOXVWHUHG RU VSUHDG DFURVV WKH WHVW OHQJWK

O

QD

LR SW

+DLULQHVV ,QGH[ +DLU &RXQW DQG +DLU 6HYHULW\ !

)DEULF DQG %ODFN %RDUG 6LPXODWLRQ

6OXE DQG )DQF\ <DUQ 0HDVXUHPHQW

48$/,7<