India's textile sector is set for substantial growth with a 28% increase in budget allocation for the fiscalyear2024-25.Thissignificantboostaimsto driveinnovation,enhanceproductivity,andcreate new opportunities, reinforcing the government's commitmenttothisvitalindustry.
Shri Sanjay Garg, President of the Northern India Textiles Mills Association (NITMA), highlighted the budget's focus on employment, skilling, and MSMEs, which will greatly benefit the laborintensive textile industry. The introduction of the Credit Guarantee Scheme for MSMEs, allowing term loans for machinery and equipment without collateral, is expected to stimulate sector investment.
Increased budget allocations for cotton procurement, National Technical Textiles Mission,andPMMITRAarepoisedtosupportthe industry further. Shri Garg praised the higher allocationsforRoDTEPandRoSCTL,whichcome atacrucialtimefordecliningtextileexports.
Skill development incentives, such as C3,000 per monthperworker,andthereductionindutyonraw spandex yarn from 7.5% to 5%, will enhance international competitiveness. The budget's emphasisone-commercegrowth,industrialparks, and support for working women hostels will contribute to a more robust and sustainable industrialecosystem.
While the increase in the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme allocation to C45 crore is positive, more comprehensive measures are neededforlarge-scaleinvestments.
In conclusion, the increased budget allocation for the textile sector is promising, but its impact will depend on effective implementation and strategic industryinitiatives.Thegovernment'scommitment to supporting the textile sector is clear, and with continuedfocus,thefuturelooksbrightforIndia's textileindustry.
Birla Cellulose, a pioneer in sustainable textile solutions, is revolutionizing the perception of Open End (OE) yarn with its groundbreaking product,Excel.
ContrarytotheprevailingbeliefthatOEyarnis only suitable for low-end applications using cotton waste, Birla Cellulose has unlocked the true potential of OE yarn, particularly in home textilebusinessanddenimapplications.
BycombiningOEyarnstructurewithexceptional strength and whiteness, Birla Cellulose has provided spinning mills with an innovative solutiontoreducetheirrelianceonvirgincotton, increase waste utilization, and achieve superior resultsthroughoutthevaluechain.
NeedforSustainability
Sustainabilityisapressingconcerninthefashion industry,withtheneedtoaddressglobalwarming and reduce greenhouse emissions. Mechanical
recyclingofpreandpost-consumertextilewaste has emerged as a greener option in the textile sector.
However, shredding and opening textile waste often results in inferior-quality recycled fibres. The properties of mechanically recycled cotton hardwastefibrestypicallyinclude:
●Highershortfibre%
●Reducedspanlength
●Highernepspergram
●Weakerfibrestrength
IntroducingExcelFibres
To overcome the limitations associated with recycled fibres, Birla Cellulose has identified its Excelfibre(lyocellfibre)astheidealpartnerfor blendingwithmechanicallyrecycledcotton.
SPINNING
Below mentioned industrial data of cotton v/s cotton: Excel blend will give the insights about USPs of Excel blend with recycled cotton.
Parametersfor10sOEyarn
Rotortype
Rotor
Navel
Yarn
CottonRecycled&Virgin80/20
Excel fibre or the lyocell fibre offers uniform length,denier,whiteness,andhigherstrengthin yarn manufacturing Thus, effectively compensating for the shortcomings of mechanically recycled cotton fibres. The resulting products, crafted from a blend of recycled cotton and Birla Excel, offer numerousadvantagessuchas:
●Enhancedyarnstrength
●Increasedproductivity
●Abilitytospinfinerrotoryarn
●Softtouchandfeel
●Vibrantcolourshades
●Improvedfabricluster
●Widerangeofapplications
Followed by the introduction of Birla Excel (lyocell) as a value-added product for mechanical recycling yarn spinning, Many OE mills has shown keen interest in blending Birla Excel with recycled cotton & other soft wastes.
Apart from denim application, spinning Mills also started offering OE recycled yarn with specialized Birla Excel fibre blend in count range from 6s to 34s for various applications such as bed linen, covers, shirting, trousers, towels,ladies'dressmaterial,andknits.
With a dedicated technical service team and TextileResearchApplicationandDevelopment Centre (TRADC) Birla Cellulose also extends technical guidance for improving OE yarn productivity & quality thereby adding value to thespinner.
The company's focused Business Development team's presence Pan-India, provide support for order tie-ups with various value chain partners across different categories for promoting EXCELbasedproducts.
Visit www.livabybirlacellulose.com for more information.
Thereisnolookingbackafteroursuccessful partnershipwithLMWsincetheyear2004. In the past two decades, LMW machinery has transformed a lot. Continuous innovation has led to various automations resulting in higher productivity & quality, lower manpower requirements, lower power consumption, and less space requirement.Themachineryperformanceis excellent with good support from the sales andserviceteam.”
Mr. Vishnu Prabu KS, Joint Managing Director
SPINNING
K.MKnitwearPrivateLimited,foundedbyMr.K.MSubramanianin1993,beganwithgarmentexportsandhas since become a global textile powerhouse. Under the leadership of Mr. Vishnu Prabu KS, Joint Managing Director,andMr.KarthicPrabuKS,ExecutiveDirector,thecompanyexcelsinspinning,knitting,processing and garmenting with value additions like printing and embroidery.Their success story is deeply intertwined withthecutting-edgemachineryandtechnologicalinnovationsprovidedbyLMW.
In 2023, K.M. Knitwear commissioned a new unit featuring LMW'sA-Z Smart Machinery, which includes 32,640spindlesforprocessing20sto40sNe,combedcompacthosiery.Thisunitexemplifiestheircommitment toinnovation,quality,andefficiency,allfacilitatedbyLMW'sstate-of-the-arttechnology.
K.M. Knitwear has not left any stone unturned with having implemented state-of-the-art practices for the infrastructurewithitsmostoptimizedlayout.
Thanks to LMW's advanced technology, K.M. Knitwear is planning to launch a new diamond quality green yarnwhichwillhavethehigheststandardsthatarepresentlyinthemarket.
K.M.Knitwear'svisionistogrowfromaturnoverof C800croresatpresentto C1000croresin2yearsand C1500 crores in 5 years. This ambitious goal is driven by continuous improvement, innovation, and a strategic partnershipwithLMW.
The implementation of LMW machinery has significantly optimized operations. The advanced automation features have not only enhanced productivity but also improved product quality, ensuring K.M Knitwear remainstheleaderintheglobalmarket.
Mr. K. Balasubramaniam, General Manager andMr.K.Durairaj,FactoryManager
CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, announced the appointmentofAlexZucchiasitsnewpresident. Mr Zucchi was elected at the GeneralAssembly heldon14June2024.
MrZucchihasbeenactiveinCEMATEX,having been involved in the ACIMIT delegation since 2015. is the immediate past president of He ACIMIT,andcontinuestobeastaunchadvocate of the sustainability cause, including promotion of the ACIMIT green label and the recycling of textile machinery. Currently, he is the managing director and partner of Ferraro, a manufacturer specialisinginfinishingmachinery.
Following Mr Zucchi's election, the General Assemblyexpresseditsgratitudetotheoutgoing president, Ernesto Maurer, who led the association with enthusiasm and professional competence for four years. Mr Maurer will continuetobeinvolvedinCEMATEXasitsvice president.
In his first comments as the new president of CEMATEX,MrZucchisaid:"Itisagreathonour to be appointed and I would like to thank the Assemblyforthetrustplacedinme.Iwouldalso like to express my gratitude to former president Ernesto Maurer for his accomplishments during histenuretostrengthentheroleofCEMATEXon theinternationalscene.”
Caitme is considered one of the largest trade fairsforthetextileindustryinCentralAsia.At its trade fair appearance in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions will be focussing on customer- and market-oriented complete solutions from a single source. From 11 to 14 September 2024, the machine manufacturer's experts will be providinginformationabouttheirsustainable machine and system technologies at the TextimaExportImportGmbHstandinHall4, StandF44attheUECUzexpocentre.
Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions offers complete solutions ranging from polycondensation plants to texturized yarns, accompaniedbyautomationanddigitalsolutions. The supply of all process steps from a single source ensures a harmonised technology that guaranteesthehighqualityoftheyarnproduced.
"The Uzbek market continues to develop well. Thecountryhasbeenknownfordecadesforvery good products in the cotton sector. However, market players are increasingly recognising the advantages and necessity of synthetically produced yarns and fibres. With our product
portfolio,weofferpreciselythetechnologiesthat the Uzbek textile industry needs to meet its requirementsinthecomingyears,'explainsAndré Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs. "It is important to us that we always make a contributiontosustainabilitywithourtechnology solutions. Be it by increasing energy efficiency with each new generation of machines or by processingnewmaterials,'Wissenbergcontinues. Oerlikonisproudofthefactthatthecompanyhas been offering innovative solutions for the textile industry under the e-save sustainability label for 20 years and has saved over 15 million tons of CO2 thanks to the machines and systems developedandinstalledonthemarketduringthis time.
Sustainable processes for POY and FDY production
POYyarnsaretherawmaterialforawiderangeof fashion, sports, functional and home textiles. Theyarethentexturedand,ataround40%,make upthelargestproportionofmanmadefiberyarns producedworldwide.OerlikonBarmag'sWINGS POY technology guarantees outstanding yarn
quality with high productivity and energy efficiency.With its particularly gentle yarn path, WINGS ensures that the yarn remains as highqualityasitwaswhenitleftthespinningmill.The minimized deflection angle has a positive effect onyarnevenness,yarntension,CV%valuesand thus on dyeability. A perfect package structure ensuresexcellentfurtherprocessingpropertiesin downstreamprocessessuchastexturing.
FullydrawnFDYyarnsareprocessedintotextile surfaceswithoutfurtherfinishing.Theyareused wherever textiles need to fall smoothly or glide. OerlikonBarmag'sWINGSconceptfortheFDY process stands for optimised production processes, low waste rates and energy consumption reduced by around 30 percent with the highest yarn quality. The technology can be used in the FDY process for polyester and polyamide.
DTY yarns - uncompromising quality and maximumflexibility
Texturizedyarnscanbeusedforawiderangeof applications. They are used in clothing, home textiles, the automotive industry and many other areas. Oerlikon Barmag offers a wide range of differentDTY machine configurations for the efficient and sustainableproductionofhigh-qualitytexturized yarnsfromvariouspolymers,frompolyesterand polyamide to polypropylene, PLAand PTT.The modular DTY machines, equipped with
sophisticated components, expertise and proven technology, enable the production of texturized yarns for excellent further processing in downstreamprocessesatoptimumOPEXcosts.
Sustainable production of staple fibers with EvoSteam
The EvoSteam process from Oerlikon Neumag stands for both resource-efficient staple fiber production and excellent fiber quality. It offers impressive savings in energy, water and raw material consumption as well as a reduction in operatingcosts(OPEX)andtheCO2footprint.
New bicomponent BCF yarn for the carpet market
Quality, efficiency and performance - with its latest development in the field of bicomponent yarnsforcarpetproduction,OerlikonNeumagis meeting the carpet market's demand for new innovativeBCFyarns.'ThenewBICOBCFyarn is characterised by a richer and higher volume whileatthesametimesignificantlyreducingthe consumption of raw materials in carpet production,' explains Oerlikon Neumag BCF Sales Director for UzbekistanArnd Luppold.At the exhibition stand, interested parties can see sampleyarnsandcarpets,findoutmoreaboutthe productrangeandhavein-depthdiscussionswith the experts about the advantages of BICO BCF yarninvariousapplications.
ŸLenzing'slatestBlackTowelCollectionfeatures sixessentialeverydaypersonalcareitemscrafted with TENCEL™ Modal in black fibers and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Viscose in black fibers
ŸFeaturing remarkable softness after repeated washes, the collection utilizes a spin-dyeing technique that not only reduces environmental impact3,4duringdyeingprocess,butalsoensures lastingcolorintensity
Lenzing Group, a leading global producer of wood-based specialty fibers, announces the launchofitslatestBlackTowelCollectionmade with LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded black viscose fibers and TENCEL™ branded black modalfibers.Thecollectionfeaturessixessential everyday washable and reusable face and body care items, from makeup removal pads, makeup removal towels, gym towels, bath towels, hand towels,hairbonnets,tobeachtowels,designedto cater to the ever-changing consumers' needs for quality,responsiblepersonalcareitemsforevery
aspectofdailylife.Madewithingredientsthatare responsibly produced1, the Black Towel Collection presents an alternative choice for a societal norm where conventional makeup removal products are mostly single-use disposable items, and reusable towels often get stained or discoloration due to repeated usage. The collection will bring about a refined experience to consumers through its exceptional durability,softnessandcolorvibrancy.
Engineered for everyday use with enhanced softness and durability The Black Towel Collection is woven with a blend of cotton and TENCEL™ Modal black fibers or LENZING™ ECOVERO™Viscoseblackfiberswithaunique fabric composition to enhance durability. Even aftermultiplewashes,theseproductsretaintheir softnessandgentlefeelontheskin,makingthem idealforrepeateduse.Derivedfromcontrolledor certifiedwoodsources,thesespecialtyfibersare made from resource-saving processes, using at least 50% less carbon emissions and water consumption1. Additionally, the LENZING™
HOMETEXTILES
ECOVERO™ Viscose black fibers are certified biodegradableandcompostableattheendoftheir lifecycle2. Both reusable and responsibly produced, this towel collection is an excellent solution for individuals looking to minimize the carbonfootprint1oftheireverydaycarepractices.
Long-lasting colour vibrancy enabled by resource-savingdyeingprocesses
Featuringarichblackcolor,thetowelsaredyedin the fiber stage using the spin-dyeing technique, where black color pigments are directly incorporated into the fibers. The unique process uses 50% less energy and water3 and does not require post-dye rinses, substantially enabling a 60% decrease in carbon footprint compared to conventionaldyeingmethods3.Theprocessalso helpspreservecolorintensityevenaftermultiple washes4andcanmitigatetheformationofcream spotscausedbycontactwithsubstanceslikeacne cream.Withhighcolourfastness,consumersalso do not have to worry about the black colour staining other garments in the washing process.
Specifically,thegymtowelsandbeachtowelsin this collection feature chlorine-resistant propertiesthatminimizediscolorationandfabric damage caused by exposure to chlorine in householdwaterandswimmingpools.Thishelps towelsretaincolourandqualitylonger,reducing theneedforfrequentreplacement.
“Majority of the make-up removal towel
offerings, including disposable cotton towels, washable microfiber, and face towels, are made with 100% cotton. As consumers become more aware of the environmental impact of their daily essential face and body care products, we see an opportunity for Lenzing to bring forth an alternative option using our cellulosic fibers," said Ebru Bayramoglu, Head of Global Business Development in textiles business at Lenzing. "Developed in collaboration with our valuechainpartners,thisBlackTowelCollection willbeaninspirationalofferingtobeshowcased at various retail outlets and highlighted during upcoming trade events. Exceptionally soft and durableevenafterrepeatedwashes,ourcollection is set to become a popular choice among conscious consumers who want to make a difference to the world through their daily personalcarerituals.”
"We are proud to work with Lenzing to develop ourfirstBlackTowelCollection.Wehavealways loved experimenting with different fiber blends and fabric compositions to develop practical products that address the everyday needs of consumers.Withthisnewoffering,wehopethat more brands and consumers will come to realize that they can be kinder to the world with small changes in their everyday habits," said Mustafa Soylu, Research and Development CoordinatoratVeritasTekstil
Ebru Bayramoglu, Head of Global Business DevelopmentintextilesbusinessatLenzing.
The May 2024 ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey(GTIS)indicatesacontinuedstagnationin the textile business climate, with a marginal improvement of the economic situation due to morecompaniesdeemingbusiness"satisfactory".
On the other hand, business expectations have stagnatedinpositiveterritoryforayear,reflecting optimism rather than actual improvement, as the entire supply chain suffers from a lack of orders andhighcoststhataffectprofitmargins.
The balance between "good" and "poor" order intakehasimprovedslightly,andexpectationsfor order intakein six months aretrendingupwards. Sincesummer2023,orderbackloghasfluctuated around two months on average, rising slightly from1.9monthsinMarch2024to2.1monthsin May, though it is too early to interpret this as a positive trend. The reported average capacity utilization rate increased marginally to 71% in May2024,afterdecliningfromapeakof80%at theendof2021.Surveyparticipantsexpectbetter capacityutilizationinsixmonths.
Weak demand remains the main concern since September 2022, though its importance has decreased in the last six months. Other concerns includehighrawmaterialprices,geopolitics,high energy prices, and a lack of workers and talents. Globally,58%ofrespondentsdidnotexperience any order cancellations in May 2024, slightly downfrom59%inMarch.AfricaandEuropehad relatively low order cancellations, while the Americas experienced more, with spinners and finishers/dyers/printers reporting the highest levels.
InMay2024,59%ofcompaniesreportedaverage inventory levels. North America registered the highest levels among regions, and spinners among segments. Inventories at brands and retailers remain high but are slowly decreasing. The prolonged negative business cycle often forces companies to produce at a loss or lower capacity utilization, with no significant change expectedin2024.
For more information, please see www.itmf.org orcontactsecretariat@itmf.org.
SPINNING
TC30iandIDF3:DreamTeamfordirectspinning
ThefirstinstallationsoftheTrützschlerCardTC 30i and the Trützschler Integrated Draw Frame IDF3arenowcomplete–andthefirstcustomers have finished rigorous testing in direct spinning applications.TheIDF3isachievingstrongresults inreal-worldconditions.Andcustomersarevery pleased with its easy handling and high-speed spinning.
The Italian company Marchi & Fildi, headquarteredinBiella,wasoneofthefirsttotest the new IDF 3. The company specializes in producing pure and blended yarns made from natural or man-made fibers for flat knitting, circular knitting and weaving. Its products are used for fashion, furnishings and technical applications worldwide. It also places a strong focusonreducingitsenvironmentalimpact.
Marchi & Fildi is a pioneer in innovative and sustainable yarns made from recycled materials, with deep expertise in mechanical recycling. GuidoMarchetto,ProductionSupervisor,reports
with enthusiasm: "We are very pleased with the new IDF 3. It increases our efficiency and provides higher yarn quality. The ease of operation simplifies the production process. We look forward to the benefits that the IDF 3 will bring to our business in the future". Marchi & Fildi's first trials were carried out with different fiber blends. This included a blend of 70 % soft waste cotton and 30 % polyester as the raw material for rotor direct spinning, with a yarn countinarangeofNe8toNe12andNe30.
Remarkablerecyclingresults
Latertestsinvolvedfiberblendsof50%PETand 50%recycledcottonfromhardtextilewastefor rotordirectspinningwithayarncountofNe30. ExpertsatMarchi&Fildistatedthatthismaterial blend is typically very challenging. Processing secondary fibers made from hard textile waste requires very high competence in yarn production, which Marchi & Fildi impressively demonstrates. It also requires advanced technologies. This is due to technological
challenges such as significantly lower fiber length.Trützschler'sIDFtechnologyhasaspecial draftingzonegeometrythatensuresreliablefiber guidanceandcontrolsfloatingfibers.Itgenerates lower drafts than a conventional draw frame passage and avoids the risk of false drafts and countvariations.
Decades of experience with the IDF technology havedemonstratedthatthehighertheshortfiber content,thebettertheresultwithIDFcomparedto conventional two draw frame passages. In combinationwiththeTC30Ri,avariantofTC30i that has been specifically equipped and configuredforprocessingrecycledfibers,theIDF 3 delivers maximum possible quality for the productionofsustainableyarns.
Marchi&FildiconfirmedthatcombiningtheTC 30Ri and IDF 3 went beyond their expectations due to the unique possibility of optimizing the process parameters. The TC 30Ri delivers the materialatahigherspeedandtheIDF3keepsup with this speed to produce very good sliver evenness – even during the can change. Better
Overall, the company's results showed a 75 % increase in productivity over the previous card model and a 14 % reduction in energy consumption at higher production rates. Combining the TC 30Ri and IDF 3 also enabled Marchi&Filditoskipthedrawingstagefromits process, which boosts quality while saving resourcesandcuttingcosts.
"WehavecollaboratedwithTrützschlerformany years because its machines offer excellent performanceforprocessingrecycledyarns,"says Guido Marchetto. "The machines are easy to set up and adapt for our specific needs.And we can alwaysrelyontheeffectiveservicesupportfrom Trützschlertoo."
In conclusion, it's no surprise that Trützschler's IDFtechnologyisgettingmoreandmorepopular acrossmarketsworldwide.Itmakesitpossibleto significantly shorten the spinning preparation processwithoutcompromisingonquality.Infact,
IDF technology helps to improve quality levels when processing raw materials with a high short fibercontent.Italsoenablesshortenedprocesses thatsaveresources,energyandproductionspace. Whenusedtogether,theTC30iandtheIDF3help customers reach the full potential of the direct spinningprocess.
BenefitsoftheIDF3:
ŸHigher yarn quality and homogenous slivers throughadvancedmeasuringdevices.
ŸIncreased efficiency by 3 % through new can changing principle that minimizes can change times.
Ÿ Easy accessibility for optimal machine handling.
SPINNING RieterWinsMajorFollow-upOrderfromDIW
(Back row) Thomas Oetterli, CEO Rieter Group (left); Roger Albrecht, Head of Business Group Machines & Systems (Front row, from left to right): Liu Yifang, Vice Chairman, Shanghai Digital Intelligence World Industrial Technology Co., Ltd.; Michael Hubensteiner, Country Managing DirectorRieterChina;MichaelWang,SeniorVicePresident,RieterSalesChina
On July 16, 2024, Rieter and Shanghai Digital Intelligence World Industrial Technology Group Co.,Ltd.(DIW)havesignedapurchasecontract for more than 700 of the company's winding machines Autoconer X6. This represents the largest order in the history of Rieter China. The agreement also strengthens the strategic partnershipbetweenthetwocompaniesthataims to develop state-of-the-art spinning operations and achieve unprecedented levels of quality, productivityandefficiency.
DIW has placed an order for more than 700 of Rieter's winding machines Autoconer X6. The winding machine serves as the final quality assurance in the ring spinning and compactspinningprocessandiskeytotheperformanceof subsequent process steps. With its outstanding productivity, intelligent process automation, excellent splicing and winding quality, the AutoconerX6iswidelyrecognizedinthemarket. The order will help DIW strengthen the vertical integration of its operations and accelerate its
SPINNING
TheAutoconer X6 is widely recognized for its outstanding productivity, intelligent process automation, excellentsplicingandwindingquality.
growth strategy in the cotton spinning industry, furtherunderpinningitsleadingpositioninglobal markets. This order follows the initial batch placed in March 2024, when Rieter and DIW signed their first strategic partnership to develop intelligent yarn manufacturing technology that utilizes digitization and automation to minimize conversion costs and maximize value for customers.
Liu Yifang, Vice Chairman, Shanghai Digital Intelligence World Industrial Technology Group Co.,Ltd.,says:“Thispartnershipisawin-winfor both companies. With our vertically integrated manufacturing operations, we are building some
oftheworld'smostadvancedspinningoperations which will ideally position us for growth in this industry. Together we will further enhance the overalloperationalefficiencyofDIW,creatinga majorplayerincottonspinning.”
Michael Hubensteiner, Country Managing Director Rieter China, says: “With its highperformance winding machines, Rieter will help DIW meet its steadily growing demand and requirements for higher operational efficiency. Therenewedcooperationwillfurtheramplifyour shared strengths, position us to capture growth opportunities together and enable long-term and stablecooperationbetweenRieterandDIW.”
PROCESSING
MonfortsandUniferrojoinforcesatFebratex2024
Havingrecentlysecuredsignificantmajororders in Central and South America, finishing machineryspecialistMonfortswillexhibitatthe upcoming Febratex textile machinery exhibition taking place in Blumenau, Brazil, from August 20-23, along with Uniferro, its new regional partner.
This new alliance follows the well-earned retirement of Herbert Erdmann of the service agency Euro Texteis, who has worked tirelessly withMonfortsovermorethan30yearstosecurea leadingpositionintheregionforMontexstenter dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and associated finishingtechnology.
Aftersalesandservice
With offices in Sao Paulo and Ceara and sub-
agents across Brazil, Uniferro has been active in thetextileindustryforover50years.
“Our focus has always been on providing our customers with the best technology, so we work only with high quality brands and we are very pleased to now partner with Monforts,” says UniferroownerFabriceMeyer.
Monforts Montex stenters and Thermex dyeing ranges are industry standard for the fabric finishingindustry,providingmanyadvantagesin termsofproductionthroughputandespeciallyin achievingenergyefficiencyandsavings.
“Investment in new technology and capacity expansionsareveryimportanttoourcustomersin Brazil, who are looking to stay ahead of the
PROCESSING
competition in terms of sustainable, high quality production,” says Monforts Regional Sales Manager Achim Gesser. “We find that they carefully assess the benefits of each advanced newtechnologyinordertothriveinasectorthatis constantlychangingandasaresult,haveadopted ongoingstrategiesofcontinuousinvestment.”
coaTTex
At Febratex, Monforts will introduce its very latestcoaTTexcoatingunitexclusivelydedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatilecoaterissuitableforbothincorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts Montex stenter systems.
Awiderangeofcoatingscanbeappliedtofabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and black-out coating.
Denimhub
Brazil remains a buoyant hub for textile manufacturing with a particular stength in the denim dyeing and finishing sector and many Monforts Thermex hotflue dyeing systems are already operational in the region, reaping the benefitsoftheEcontrol®process.
Econtrol®isacontinuousprocessforthedyeing ofwovencottonandcellulosicfabrics,especially denim, in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into thefabricinaone-stepdyeinganddryingprocess with a controlled combination of steam and air. Theentirepad-dryprocesstakesjusttwo-to-three minutes.
“Differentiation is the key in the highlycompetitive denim fabrics industry, whether through the successful incorporation of new fibres, accommodating new fabric constructions or exploring the many options for how to treat them at the finishing stage, to gain a market advantage,”saysAchimGesser.“Ourlinesallow users to be extremely versatile and respond quickly to market demand, while also allowing veryshortproductionruns.”
Energysavings
Because finishing is a particularly energyintensivepartofthetextileproductionchain,itis exactlywhereconvincingresultscanbeachieved, headds,andMonfortshasdevelopedawiderange ofenergy-saving.Theseincludedarangeofheat recovery systems, such as the Universal Energy Tower and the ECO Booster. Both can also be retrofitted to existing ranges to make production more resource-efficient and economical, yet withouthavingtoinvestinanewmachine.
“Energy costs tend to be high in Brazil and can accountforupto70%ofproductioncostsforour customers, so there is great demand for ways of saving money,” says Gesser. “Cutting energy usage also helps in terms of global warming and reducing carbon footprint, of course, so these latest technologies are a win-win for fabric finishers. As we look forward to a promising partnershipwithUniferroinBrazil,wewouldlike toextendourthanksandbestwishesforthefuture to Herbert Erdmann for his hard work over the years.”
Monforts and Uniferro look forward to meeting customers old and new at Febratex, in Hall 5, at stand27.
Q1. How does biochar utilization specifically enhance soil fertility and crop yields? Biochar is a carbonrichproductwhichoffersawidearrayofother benefits.Whenappliedtosoil,biocharbehavesasan amendment able to increase the availability of water and nutrients while balancing soil composition. This breedshealthysoil,whichincreasesplantgrowth/crop yields whilst reducing the need for excess fertilizers andirrigation.Biocharhasthusbeenusedinanumber of diverse agricultural applications over several centuries across the world, notably in the context of organic or regenerative farming. Beetle Regen Solutions has been piloting various Biochar pilots where farmers can grow their own Biochar from the biomass harvested from crops. This Biochar is then appliedtothesoilbeforesowinginthenextseasonand isexpectedtoimprovetheSoilOrganicCarbonlevels mymanypercentagepointstoboostoverallfertility.
Q2.Whatarethemainbenefitsofimplementinga high density planting system in cotton farming? The productivity of Indian cotton is 445 kgs lint/ha, which is far below the global productivity of 775kgs lint/ha,about63%ofthecottonareaisrainfed,mostof therainfedareashavelowwaterholdingcapacity,are shallowtomediumdepthandarepoorinfertility.Asa result,37%ofcountry'sareaproducelessthan300kgs lint/ha. HDPS is primarily targeted to these regions and is a scalable technology through short season, compact genotypes dovetailed with appropriate agronomy. The aim of HDPS is to enhance productivityperunitarearatherthanonaplantbasis. InarecentlypublisheddocumentfromCICR,farmers who increased their planting densities threefold doubled their yields. Beetle Regen Solutions is implementing HDPS pilots with smallholder farmers in training them to sow suitable HDPS varieties in closerdensitieswithcanopymanagementtechniques tomaximisetheirproductivity.
Q3. Can you share an example of a success story from your farmer training programs? We are just startingthisyearwithourregenerativeoperationsand projects, so it's premature to claim any impact.
However, nearly 10% of our Regenerative Ambassadors and lead farmers have already adopted groundbreaking innovations such as High Density Plantation of cotton (using suitable varieties spaced closely under canopy management techniques). This isararemethodbuthasthepotentialtoincreaseyield by 25-30%. Our farmers have also dispersed 85,000 seed balls to increase biodiversity and afforestation. We are demonstrating to all our farmers how to producebiocharusingpyrolysisofbiomassinearthpit Kon Tikis, practicing low tillage operations, and adopting other regenerative practices that aren't commonlyfound.
Q4.HowdoesBeetleRegenensurethetraceability andtransparencyofitscottonsupply?Weareusing several options for implementing traceability and documenting chain of custody including blockchain based traceability protocol like GCC (General CertificateofConformity)withourpartnerginnersto document farm level traceability and using DNA tracersandmarkersforlintleveltraceabilityuptoall stagesofgarmentorfinishedproductmanufacturing. Inadditiontothis,ourRegenerativeAmbassadorsare present to monitor and verify the procurement transactions from farmers to ginners and ratify the chainofcustodyattheginners(segregatedprocessing, storage and sales of the regenerative cotton from our projects).
Q5. What impact has your approach had on the qualityofcottonproducedanditsreceptioninthe textile industry? We believe with short duration cottonandmakingfarmersunderstandthatextending the crop beyond January is detrimental to the quality will go a long way in ensuring the quality. Beetle is alsotrainingthefarmerstousethebestpossibleseed qualities which are suitable to their agro climatic conditionsandalsoaresuitabletomarketdemandsof staple length, mic and other factors. We also train farmersonbestharvestingpractices,storagesystems andcontaminationcontroltoprovidethebestquality cotton to ginners, free of trash and contamination, in ordertogetbestprices.
SPINNING
Theperfectpoloshirtwithair-spinning
Theidealsolutionfortheproductionofclassic polo shirts is Belairo air-spun yarn, produced on the Autoairo 11 air-spinning machine. It fulfils all customer requirements in terms of durability and environmental compatibility andsignificantlyreducesthecostsofspinning mills.
Poloshirts,thestylishcombinationofcasualand business,arecelebratingacome-back,especially in menswear. For a summery look, single-jersey models are favoured, while for universal yearround use, customers prefer the classic, slightly heavier piqué knit. This classic knitted fabric offers many advantages: It is particu-larly breathableandkeepsitsshape,whileatthesame time being elastic, comfort-able and creaseresistant.
Piqué-knitted fabrics are characterised by a special relief structure with characteristic higher and lower stitches.These knitted fabrics achieve the intended optical depth effect through the use of very smooth yarns, in which the colour is reflected evenly, thus emphasising their
characteristic structure. Protruding fibres and especially pilling are highly undesirable with piqué.Inordertopreservethesecharacteristicsin the knitted fabric over the long term, combed yarnsareusuallyusedforpiqué,oftenmadefrom high-quality long-staple cotton. The raw materials for a high-quality polo shirt are generallymuchmoreexpensivethanforaT-shirt.
When polo shirts are made from ring-spun yarn, the spinning costs are relatively high and the finishingisalsocomplex–allinall,thisaddsup to challenging production conditions for consumer textiles. With Belairo yarns, spun on theAutoairoair-spinningmachine,thisbalancing actbetweenqualityandcostisathingofthepast. Polo shirts made from Belairo yarn have everythingthatahigh-qualitybusinesspoloshirt must have: an elegant look without pilling, even after500washes.
Belairo yarns with a ring yarn-like character can reduce the classic spinning costs, energy, labour and space requirements by around half overall. This opens up new opportunities for yarn manufacturers to increase their profitability.The
productivityoftheAutoairoair-spinningmachine is 16 times greater than that of a ring spinning machine. Significantly fewer machines are needed,andthelabourandspacerequirements,as wellastheenergyconsumptionperkgofyarn,are considerablylower.
The yarn-strength requirements of knitting mills arerelativelylow.Theinherentlyhighstabilityof combed ring yarns is not needed in the knitting process,buthighyarnelongationis.Belairoyarns have precisely these properties: sufficient strength, high elongation and extremely low hairiness.
YarnlookandyarnstructurefromBelairo
The yarn structure of air-spun Belairo yarns consistsofacorewithparallelcorefibresonthe inside and wrapping fibres on the outside of the yarn,whichwraparoundthecoreandleadtotheir characteristicallylowhairiness.
Yarn evenness is determined by a number of parameters. For both ring-spun and air-spun yarns, the classic thin places, thick places and nepsareofimportance,asthesecanbevisiblein theendproduct.Yarnuniformityisveryhighwith combedring-spunyarns.Thisispartlyduetothe additional process of producing roving bob-bins on the roving frame, which involves further mixing of the fibres. The uniformity of Belairo yarns is characterised by a comparable or lower number of classic thin places, thick places and neps. One reason for this is that Belairo yarns experience significantly fewer deflections and frictionpointsduringspinningthanringyarns,as they are wound directly onto cross-wound packages and do not require an additional rewindingprocess.
ThankstotheoutstandingyarnqualityofBelairo yarns,theknittingmachinescanproduceattheir usual high production speeds. The low hairiness of the yarns and the good fibre bonding also extend the cleaning intervals of the knitting machines, as Belairo yarns show significantly lessdustandfluffformationthanringyarns.
Onemanufacturerofhigh-qualitypoloshirtshas replaced combed ring-spun yarns with combed Belairo yarns. The yarn structure of the air-spun yarn with parallel core fibres and twisted wrap fibres, along with their extremely low hairiness, meet all the requirements that are important for piqué.Theresult:Piquéknitswithbrilliantcolour reproduction, high dimensional stability, perfect wash fastness and, above all, excellent pilling resistancecombinedwithagoodfit.
FinishingpoloshirtswithBelairoyarnisalsoless time-consuming than using ring-spun yarns. When ring yarns or rotor yarns are used, the textiles must be treated enzymatically after bleaching in order to remove the loose fibres adhering to the surface. Enzyme-based biopolishing with cellulases removes these fibre fragments, optimally prepares the surface for subsequentdyeingandprinting,givesthetextilea smoother and softer feel, and reduces the tendency to pill. Biopolishing is effec-tive but expensive, and then also not permanent. The effectlastsforabout30washes,afterwhichthere is a greater likelihood that the surface feel will become harder and the tendency to pill will increase.
With Belairo yarns with their special fibre bonding, biopolishing is not necessary. The knittedfabriccanbedyeddirectlyafterbleaching. The elimination of cost-intensive biopolishing has a positive impact on the environment, as fewer chemicals are used.Thedyeing of Belairo yarns is intensive, the colour pigments penetrate deep into the fibres without chemical pretreatment and do not fade during the washing process by the end user. Polo shirts with Belairo yarnscanbewornforlongerbyquality-conscious consumers, because they retain their brilliant colours for longer and have a smooth surface withoutprotrudingfibresandpilling.
The registered cooperative VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub is using threeADF machines from STOLLanddigitalsolutionsfromKM.ON–both brandsoftheKARLMAYERGROUP–toequip its microfactory currently under construction in Berlin's Bikinihaus. The platform is intended to bring together academics, brands, research institutes,start-upsandSMEstocreatenewways ofachievinggreatersustainabilityandethos.The goalisafashionindustrywithapositivebalance sheet. The pixel-to-product microfactory offers innovative hardware and software solutions for thephysical,digitalorhybridimplementationand testing of promising concepts, products and processes.
“We are delighted to be involved in the Fashion Microfactoryproject,becausewithourmachines, whicharepredestinedforefficientcustomization thanks to their enormous patterning flexibility, andwithourdigitalsolutions,whichsignificantly shortenleadtimes,wehavebeenfocusingonthe topicofmade-to-orderforalongtimeandhopeto gain new impetus and contacts,” says Michael
Händel, Vice President Sales & Service at STOLL.
The contracts for the delivery of the flat knitting machines were signed on July 9 at STOLL's headquarters in Reutlingen. my TEXTILE NEWSeditorUlrikeSchlenkertookadvantageof the visit by the two co-CEOs of VORN, Prof. MarteHentschelandOliverLange,totalktothem abouttheirproject.
US: You have just returned from a tour of the company.WhatisyourimpressionofSTOLL?
OL: I am still very enthusiastic. Great, creative, innovative people work here who drive their companyforward.
STOLL “breathes” German engineering and demonstrates continuity with its long history.At the same time, you can sense a great pioneering spirit. I experience STOLL as a strong, innovative, future-oriented manufacturer with entrepreneurial spirit and creativity. Its product strategyisimpressive.Withitsmachines,STOLL is close to the consumer market in many sectors andthereforehasitsfingeronthepulseoftime.
KNITTING
ŸUS:Let'stakealookatyourpixel-to-product microfactory. What do you want to achieve withit?
MH:WewerecommissionedbytheBerlinSenate Department for Economics, Energy and Public Enterprises to bring together design and manufacturingwithtechnologicalinnovationand sustainability. The aim is to make economic action and a sense of responsibility tangible, i.e. notjusttotalkaboutthenecessarysustainability transformation, but to take action. In our demonstration factory, we offer low-threshold access to everything that is necessary for this: machines, software and services so that progressive players can pilot their changes quicklyandthenscalethemupforthemarket.We create all the prerequisites for fast, marketoriented and price-conscious implementation of
small series. This saves storage, material and return costs, reduces environmental impact and ensures more resilient supply chains in response tothechallengesofourtime.Inaddition,directto-customer production offers exciting margins andmarketingopportunities-alladvantagesthat make our pixel-to-product microfactory particularly interesting for brands. To take full advantage of this, we work with innovative partners from the entire value chain, from yarn supplierstoretailers.
US:STOLLisoneofthepartners,why?
MH: We have the same idea of cooperation and want to develop things further with courage, strengthandcuriosity.
OL: STOLL plays an active role in shaping the future. As a consequence we emphasize on sustainabilityanddigitalization.Webelieveinthe
same things and drive them forward in the same way.
MH: In addition to the shared set of values, we were impressed by the company's flat knitting machines.Theyoffer unique possibilities for the economical production of small batches, particularly with regard on demand production close to the market and garments that are seamless, i.e. with virtually little in the manufacturing process. This makes them a perfect fit for our concept. We also want to integrateSTOLL'scustomersintoournetworkin ordertoscaleupproductiontoindustriallevels.
US: The machines are due to be installed in August.Whatarethenextsteps?
MH:TheopeningoftheMicrofactoryisplanned forOctober.Preparationsareinfullswing.Weare currently fitting out the premises in the Bikinihaus. The aim is not a conventional production facility, but a concept hall, a glass laboratory whose interior design showcases the productiontechnologyofthefuturetoclientsand end customers. The new workflow of virtual design,sales,paymentandjustintimeproduction istobebroughttolife.
In addition to the interior design, we are schedulingtrainingsessionsforourstaff,working on a number of programmes, including applied R&Dactivities,anddrivingforwardpilotprojects with manufacturers and studios. We presented two outfits from the label SE 1 OG at the last Fashion Week Berlin.At the next fashion week, we want to celebrate the opening of the Microfactory with the live production of giveawaysthatguestscanconfigureindividually. We are also in talks about continuing our collaborationwiththeSenateattheendof2025, after the co-financing has expired. Our VORN Fashion Hub is a long-term initiative that is
US: Concepts of on-demand production of individualized items with a batch size of 1 are not new, but they are a challenge. Adidas discontinued its Speedfactory project in 2020. What are you doing differently to be successful?
MH:Alothaschangedinrecentyears.Today,we have the possibilities of a completely new generation of technology at our disposal. Hardware and software solutions are being developedandrefinedwithenormouspower.The software offerings of the CREATE family from KM.ON, for example, offer a wide range of potential for the production of knitwear collections on demand. A set of modification options makes simple, economical mass customization possible. The crisis in the retail sector is also forcing retailers to come up with new concepts and providers. Berlin is a good place for the necessary change. We also rely on experience. We work closely with the team that supported the Adidas project and benefit from what we have learned. Our focus is also not on batchsize1productiononly. Followingthepath of renowned innovation labs in Amsterdam and London, we will offer capacities so that brands, retailers and designers can bring small series to market in short project times and with high visibility. In this way, we close the gap between lengthy projects with academic institutions and massproductioninlargequantities.
US: Thank you very much for the interesting conversation and good success with your futurework
