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Editorial

Warp knitting 4.0

Sabic presents New Sabic Purecares ™ & Trucircle ™ portfolios for Nonwovens at Index ™ Expo

Fit for the terry cloth market

Warp knitted solutions with great leverage

Comfortable and sustainable: home and hobbywear made from warp knitted terry fabrics

Picanol launches new connect generation airjet and rapier weaving machines

Successful INDEX exhibition

Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 Concluded with Success

A new dynamic for the TMAS board

Strategy to Develop a Facilitating Ecosystem for Growth of The Textiles Engineering Industry (TEI) In India

ANDRITZ to supply a high-speed spunlace line to Welspun, India

How spinning and recycling go together at BB Engineering

CITI appeals to Hon’ble Prime Minister for urgent policy interventions to bring stability in the cotton prices Shri T Rajkumar, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) has appealled to the Hon’ble Prime Minister to intervene to stabilize the cotton prices, which have soared to the peak in the last 11 cotton seasons. CITI Chairman has also appealed to the Hon’ble Prime Minister for Cotton Price Stabilisation Fund Scheme comprising 5% interest subvention or loan at NABARD rate of interest, reduction in margin money from 25% to 10% and increase in the cotton working capital limit from 3 months to 9 months. In the Representation to Hon’ble Prime Minister, CITI Chairman stated that for centuries, Indian Cotton Textile Industry has always been at the helm of affairs due to its inherent strength of availability of raw cotton in abundance at competitive prices and the presence of the entire cotton value chain. Due to this inherent strength, the Indian Textile Industry is providing employment to over 10 crores workforce ranging from the skilled workforce working in the technical textile units to illiterate women and poor farmers working in small garment factories and cotton farm fields.

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CITI, Chairman stated that the levy of 10% import duty on cotton is only helping multinational traders not the cotton farmers, as the textile industry imports only 2-3% of ELS Cotton, Organic Cotton, Sustainable Cotton, etc., to meet the requirements of nominated businesses of global brands. He stated that the domestic ELS Cotton though, inferior in quality viz., DCH 32, its price has increased from Rs.57,500/- per candy from December 2020 to around Rs.1.16 lakhs in the last week of October 2021. He also stated that the textile industry has been cautioning the Government that the cotton textile value chain especially the garments and made-up exports would be severly affected in the absence of a level playing field that has become a reality now. Shri Rajkumar observed that the analysis of the last ten years’ cotton price data shows that the cotton value chain consumes around 1/3 rd of the cotton while 2/3 rd of the cotton is procured by multinational traders and CCI and the cotton prices also remain subdued during November to March making Indian cotton farmers to suffer due to market dynamics. Shri Rajkumar stated that though CCI has been offloading bulk volume to the trade, some price stability was observed due to Government intervention to adopt industry-friendly trading policies which has helped the MSME textile units. He further observed as the cotton prices are ruling very high, CCI will not be in a position to procure any cotton under MSP during the current season. This will lead the textile industry head towards a severe raw material crisis in the cotton value chain as the multinational traders are likely to procure bulk volume of cotton during the season. Shri Rajkumar stated that he has made an earnest appeal to the Hon’ble Prime Minister to look into the matter on an urgent basis and workout an industry-friendly Cotton Procurement and Trading Scheme for CCI by providing Government fund to procure 10-15% of the cotton which arrives in the market during the season and create a strategic stock for the price stability, sell cotton only to actual users in a staggered manner till the end of the season and maintain some buffer stock for the next season.

India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Srilanka, Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand, China, HongKong, USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, U.K. & France

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021

KNITTING Warp knitting 4.0 Christof Naier, President of the Business Unit Warp Knitting at the KARL MAYER Group, explains the digital future of warp knitting

Christof Naier, President of the Business Unit Warp Knitting at the KARL MAYER Group The history of industrial production has been shaped by on-going evolutionary changes. Following the discovery of steam engines in the 1800s, mass production began 100 years later, and the invention of the computer in the 1970s ushered in the Industry 3.0 era. In the intervening years, computers have become established in all areas of daily life. With the subsequent development of the Internet and cloud technology, the current Industry 4.0 era has come into being. What changes does the latest stage of human development bring for warp knitting? Ulrike Schlenker frome KARL MAYER's Corporate Communication department asked Christof Naier, President of the KARL MAYER Group's Warp Knitting Business Unit, about this. US: What is the main difference between Industry 3.0 and 4.0? CN: Essentially, the two eras differ in their focus. While the most important themes for Industry 3.0 were hardware performance and networking, Industry 4.0 is primarily about data. The collection and collation of 15

big data allows for complete transparency. In turn, transparency allows us to predict events in areas such as maintenance. For example, continuous monitoring can detect a rise in a motor's operating temperature, and appropriately obtained data can then be used to localise the reason for the temperature increase and remedy it before the motor fails. Event predictions also give us the opportunity to automate certain actions. Staying with the example of the overheating issue, for instance, the speed of the machine could be reduced automatically until the motor problem has been resolved. US: How important are cloud solutions in unlocking opportunities such as these? CN: Thanks to WeChat, WhatsApp, PayPal & Alipay, Amazon and similar offerings, we already use a variety of cloud computing solutions in our everyday lives without even thinking about it. This technology is now finding its way into industrial use opening up new possibilities for us in areas such as after-sales support and maintenance for our customers’ machines. In this instance, we are building on three different

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The history of industrial production, transitioning from Industry 3.0 to Industry 4.0 and KARL MAYER’s solutions for supporting warp knitting customers cornerstones. One key area is Care Solutions: Until now, customers have communicated with our team via smartphone, app or email when they needed support services. As a consequence, communication was often quite unstructured. We now have a newly developed platform that allows us to guide communication in the simplest and most targeted way. Thanks to networking solutions, we then already have all the necessary information about the machine, have access to the current log file, and can provide support in the form of initial measures. As the second cornerstone, we provide customers with access to all the warp knitting-related knowledge that is available to KARL MAYER. In principle, this is about helping our customers with special functions that ensure maximum productivity and reproducible quality. We have grouped these topics together under the umbrella term “Smart Machine”. Finally, the third cornerstone comprises our digital solutions, including collecting machine performance and efficiency data, matching evaluation tools, and helpful functions such as an alarm system for the machine. For example, the machine can automatically send a warning signal to the operator’s mobile phone informing them when a warp beam will soon need to be changed. We also offer solutions for innovative design software. The new technology has made it very easy for our customers to develop patterns collaboratively with their global partners across international borders. This 16

works in a similar way to how we work on Microsoft Teams or Zoom. Thanks to our innovative k.ey Box, we guarantee the highest level of data and IT security for customers – including all subsidiaries and partners – when using any of these services. US: This support concept minimises operational risks and maximises benefits for the customer. How far have you got with the implementation so far? CN: Our customers are already benefitting from numerous solutions. In the Smart Machine field, for example, they can load highly optimised lapping data from the cloud onto their machine using our Pattern Data System. These optimised movement sequences ensure that the machine will operate at the highest working speeds possible without affecting the quality of the product. Our Care Solutions team is available 24/7 to provide support where needed. For first products, we already offer Care Solutions packages, which allow customers to benefit from fixed and above all plannable service costs. The aforementioned alarm system and evaluation tools are also already available. Using these tools, our customers can significantly increase their production efficiency. KM.ON has developed a new planning tool for simple and transparent organisation of service measures. We are currently working at full speed on additional solutions. US: Thank you for sharing your insights with me.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021

NONWOVENS Sabic presents New Sabic Purecares ™ & Trucircle ™ portfolios for Nonwovens at Index ™ Expo

In an innovative circular economy pilot project, Fraunhofer, SABIC and Procter & Gamble have demonstrated the feasibility of closing the loop on facemasks to help reduce plastic waste and mitigate fossil resources depletion. (© SABIC / Fraunhofer)

SABIC, a global leader in the chemical industry, has announced that the newly formed Hygiene &amp; Healthcare segment of its Petrochemicals business will showcase its extensive portfolio of SABIC

PURECARES ™ polypropylene (PP) and polyethylene (PE) polymers for high-purity nonwovens and hygiene films at the upcoming INDEX ™ Expo in Geneva, Switzerland, from October 19

NONWOVENS through 22, 2021. The company’s exhibit at Booth #2441 will also feature enabling solutions developed with partners to address the issue of plastic waste and support the transformation of the industry towards a circular economy with closed-loop initiatives and certified circular polymers under its TRUCIRCLE ™ portfolio and services. “Our new Hygiene & Healthcare market solution organization will aligns our efforts to support our customers’ needs in this industry more effectively,” says Abdullah Al-Otaibi, General Manager ETP &amp; Market Solutions, SABIC Petrochemicals. “The new setup will drive tailored technology platforms and advanced product developments for customers who require this advanced, differentiated performance. At the same time, it will help us maintain and strengthen our competitive lead by accelerating the pace of innovation to respond to market trends more quickly.” The INDEX Expo is the world’s leading nonwoven event. More than 700 exhibitors from over 40 countries will be presenting their products, technologies and services on 50,000 m² of exhibition space. “Global megatrends are pushing the hygiene industry to focus on solutions that combine enhanced consumer convenience and functionality with greater sustainability, and cost efficiency,” states Hans Pierik, Global Business Manager, Hygiene & Healthcare Business. “We welcome the opportunity of this venue to showcase our new material technology and highperformance SABIC PURECARES portfolio, which is designed to meet current and future challenges, drive performance, enhance sustainability, and optimize consumer comfort in a dynamic business environment.” During INDEX, SABIC will exhibit a wide range of PP polymers targeted at these needs. Highlights on display will include dedicated PP and PE grades for lightweight nonwoven fabrics using the latest spunbond and meltblown processes, and a new ultra-high melt flow PP product engineered for meltblown fibers in nonwoven fabrics.

The nonwoven focus will be complemented by industry proven polyolefins for cast and blown film applications in hygiene webs and laminates, providing desirable back and top sheet properties such as water tightness, breathability and elasticity. In addition, SABIC will also present ISCC Plus certified fiber and film polymers based on circular and renewable PP and PE polymer technology as part of the company’s TRUCIRCLE portfolio for advancing the transformation of the plastics industry from a linear to a truly circular economy. Examples of this comprehensive initiative include collaborations with various market leaders in the field. Together with Fibertex Personal Care, one of the world’s largest manufacturers of spunbond nonwovens for the hygiene industry, SABIC is creating a range of highpurity nonwovens for the hygiene market using ISCC PLUS certified circular PP polymer derived from postconsumer plastic waste. In another project, Fraunhofer Institute, SABIC and Procter & Gamble (P&G) joined forces to develop and demonstrate the feasibility of an advanced close-loop recycling process for used nonwoven facemasks. “The nonwovens industry needs innovative solutions to push the limits of quality, efficiency and performance while meeting demands for greater sustainability. Significant progress is being achieved through collaboration with value chain partners to enable the efficient recyclability of complicated plastic waste, including nonwoven hygiene materials,” adds Hans Pierik. “Our SABIC PURECARES portfolio and TRUCIRCLE products are firmly committed to these ends, combining technology, nonwoven industry with our Chemistry that Matters ™ .”

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021

WARPING Fit for the terry cloth market The new ISO COTTON combined with the TM 4TS EL sets new standards in the production of terry cloth Cotton terry cloth can be produced efficiently and sustainably using warp-knitting technology, so it’s no surprise that the KARL MAYER production equipment required for this process is in demand: the TM 4-TS EL terry machine, 186”, in gauge E 24, and the new direct warping machine for the production of cotton sectional beams for warp knitting, the ISO COTTON. The new, highly efficient solution for warping the natural staple fibre was developed by KARL MAYER in 2020 and is based on the extensive expertise of the world’s market leader in warp preparation for weaving. The first models of the powerful direct warping machines have already been sold to test customers. An ISO COTTON left the KARL MAYER factory in Changzhou only at the beginning of July 2021. Direct warping of cotton – a demanding process As part of a KARL MAYER workshop at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2019 – before the development work began – the question of whether a direct warping machine designed specifically for processing cotton was needed was discussed with the company’s experienced

weaving preparation specialists. The answer was clear. For an optimum warping process, the natural fibre yarn must pass from the creel to the sectional warp beam as directly as possible, without passing through the numerous deflection points that are usually involved in the warping of filament yarns. Otherwise, too much fluff will build up or too much cleaning work will be required. What’s more, unlike in weaving, the circumferences of the sectional warp beams used for each order must be absolutely identical, as they are processed simultaneously on the TM 4-TS EL and arranged next to each other on a single axis. These two basic requirements meant it was necessary to develop a special machine. Sophisticated solutions for cotton processing The new ISO COTTON offers the incredibly short yarn paths, and thus a low-wear yarn journey. The material is led from the eyelet board, via the comb, directly to the main reed and thus to the take-up. An electronically controlled press roller ensures that the master and copy beams have the same circumference. If deviations occur, the contact pressure is adjusted to compensate accordingly. The resulting solution is completely new and highly efficient. “We can copy the circumference to within 1 mm without any problems,” said product developer Michael Bender following

Overall view of the ISO COTTON 19

WARPING extensive in-house warping tests. In addition to circumference measurement, the ISO COTTON also comes with a new and innovative yarn tensioner. The new tensioner works with pairs of discs whose partners are pressed together with adjustable force via a magnetic field, and thus regulate the yarn tension based on the type of yarn. Highest warp quality and productivity Thanks to its innovative solutions, ISO COTTON produces sectional warp beams of the highest quality. The beams feature extremely homogeneous density, an absolutely cylindrical structure, completely identical circumferences and equal thread lengths. The computer controlled length measuring system allows a length accuracy of 0.1%. The threads are also arranged

precisely, and blowing devices on the comb and the main reed keep the contamination level to a minimum. In addition to this, the ISO COTTON also stands out thanks to its minimal scrap rates. For example, it is fitted with a kick-back device that ensures that the press roller swings away when the machine stops, thus protecting the wrap. Should a yarn break, a computercontrolled brake system enables short, precise braking distances. In addition to its yarn handling, the ISO COTTON also impresses on account of its productivity – with warping speeds of up to 1,000 m/min – and its price. Although it represents an extra purchase, applicationspecific cutting means investing in the ISO COTTON quickly pays off.

Blowing device on the comb

Blowing device on the main reed

The new disc tensioner

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021

TECHNICAL TEXTILES Warp knitted solutions with great leverage Using technical warp knitted fabrics from WEFTTRONIC ® II G to provide greater efficiency on construction sites Due to the strong economic growth in emerging markets and low interest rates in most developed countries the global construction market is experiencing a sustained period of growth. The future forecasts are also optimistic. In particular, planned investments in renewable energy infrastructure and urbanisation will continue to ensure full order books for construction companies and their suppliers. The booming market rewards innovations for greater efficiency and speed in construction, as demonstrated by the textile solutions created on machines developed by KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. These wellthought-out products offer a variety of advantages across different applications. Greater efficiency in infrastructure and house building In new road construction, warp knitted, geogrids with large stitches increase the structural capacity of subsoils while also taking on filtration and separation tasks, thereby making additional layers superfluous. Used under the asphalt surface, these open structures also ensure a longer service life for both motorways and rural roads alike. The reinforcement prevents reflective cracks and wheel track rutting caused by truck tyres, and also distributes traffic loads horizontally. In infrastructure projects, geogrids are also used to

secure slopes. These textile solutions represent significantly better value than their steel counterparts, offer excellent static load capacity and can be installed with minimal interference with nature. Technical warp knitted textiles with tighter stitches are used in building construction to reinforce security gates. Despite their thin design and low weight, these powerful items protect against attacks from most electric power tools, and can be quickly installed in just a few steps. In addition to this, warp knitted fabrics with weftinsertion and with coatings are also used to make costeffective roofing systems for industrial buildings. The flexible, stable roofing membranes adapt perfectly to the specific structural conditions, are UV-resistant, and reflect incident sunlight. This reduces the amount of energy used to air condition the building. In building construction, plaster grids are a firm fixture in the cladding of interior and exterior walls. The glass fibre structures prevent cracks from forming and spreading while also distributing the forces that act upon the walls optimally across the entire surface, thus ensuring a long service life. Warp knitted variants can be produced much more efficiently than comparable woven products. In the construction and renovation of concrete structures, open grids made of carbon or AR glass are increasingly replacing steel as the reinforcement

Geogrid for subsoil reinforcement 21

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Coated warp knitted fabric for roofing

Reinforcement grids for building renovation material of choice. Textile concrete solutions, e.g. for curtain walls, are lightweight and easy to handle, require fewer resources, produce minimal emissions and are extremely durable. High-performance warp knitted fabrics with weftinsertion also offer advantages when renovating pipes. These dense textiles enable engineers to repair defective sections of pipe, rather than replacing them completely. This avoids costly excavation work that destroys natural environments. In addition to this, the pipe system can be returned to use within a very short time. The warp knitted products aimed at the construction industry were a real highlight at the KARL MAYER exhibition booth at ITMA ASIA + CITME in Shanghai in June 2021. In order to reach customers on a more

Warp knitted plaster grid global scale, the products are currently being presented as part of the world market leader’s own hybrid exhibition. A machine with good sales and business prospects WEFTTRONIC® II G is used to produce most textile solutions for the construction industry.“The highperformance raschel machine with course-oriented weft-insertion is our keymachine for this application,” says Hagen Lotzmann, Sales Director at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. It was developed as an efficient means of producing light to medium weight grid structures made of glass and polyester fibres, and has long since guaranteed continuous customer sales. It also offers great potential for growth in the future.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021

TECHNICAL TEXTILES In particular, the geo and road grids produced on the weft-insertion machines from KARLMAYER Technische Textilien provide a stable source of business. The company serves a broad customer base, especially in China. Other important sales regions include India, which manufactures for the domestic market but also for export – mostly to the USA – and much of Eastern Europe. WEFTTRONIC® II G warp knitted plaster grids are also booming in countries such as Belarus, Serbia and Hungary, as well as in China. Buyers include numerous weaving mills that have been impressed by the efficiency advantages afforded by this innovative machine. One WEFTTRONIC® II G can replace up to 20 weaving looms, depending on the opening width of the grids produced. Fewer machines also mean lower operating costs. The WEFTTRONIC® II G can cut personnel costs by up to 60%, not to mention needing less hall space. Although it was not on show in Shanghai, the WEFTTRONIC® II G was the subject of many discussions at the KARL MAYER booth at ITMA ASIA+ CITME in June 2021. The sale of one machine was negotiated and concluded during the exhibition, and a framework agreement was also signed for further deliveries.

Regional Sales Director Jan Stahr is pleased with the success of the WEFTTRONIC® II G, saying that a repeat order has also been received from the buyer of the prototype. The consensus within the industry is that the machine will result in a shift in technology, says the sales professional a summary based on opinions shared by exhibition visitors. He was even approached by a manufacturer of textile glass fibres, who wanted to optimise their products with regard to the processability with the warp knitting technology t in order to stay in business. Come, see and try it out Anyone who wants to witness the performance of the WEFTTRONIC® II G for themselves can visit the KARL MAYER Technische Textilien customer centres in Chemnitz and, as of August 2021, Changzhou. What’s more, both sites also offer visitors the chance to try out the system’s processing performance themselves. A visit is always worthwhile, especially for manufacturers of woven plaster grids. But Hagen Lotzmann also expects to see great interest from Chinese warp knitting customers. Manufacturers often make their own textile glass fibre material, and can run tests to see for themselves that their yarns run smoothly on the machine.

Comfortable and sustainable: home and hobbywear made from warp knitted terry fabrics New market opportunities due to goods made of innovative materials and a TM 4-TS EL in a new width The coronavirus has led to the rediscovery of our indigenous nature in many places around the world. Recreational opportunities that can be enjoyed close to home are gaining in importance, and traditional hobbies such as fishing are coming back into fashion, even among young people. If you want to land a big fish, you need not just the right equipment, but the right outfit too. Snuggly, soft, super-comfortable and quick-drying: the terry cloth shorts on this page (Fig. 1) complete the obligatory wellies-and-checked-shirt look for unlimited fishing pleasure. The fluffy textile was produced on a TM 4-TS EL. This terry warp knitting machine is designed for use with staple fibres, and processed the cotton for the shorts in combination with a matrix polyester microfibre yarn. The natural fibre yarn was knitted in as loops on the inside of the warp knitted terry cloth. The large surface area and the inherent properties of cotton give it a high

absorbency, while the outside is made of a special man-made fibre yarn with fine fibrils that provide a soft, pleasant feel. Thanks to the warp knitting technology, the terry loops are reliably anchored into the ground structure by means of stitches. The high loop strength means the item is comfortable to wear for long periods of time with no loss of quality. Given their long life, and also thanks to a manufacturing process that does not require sizing and desizing, terry knitted fabrics represent an ecological alternative to their woven counterparts. As such, the demand for them is high. In order to support its numerous customers in the terry cloth market, KARL MAYER is always working hard to ensure that its machines and textile products continue to evolve. As recently as June this year, the company launched its TM 4-TS EL with a new working width of 210. Another of KARL MAYER’s latest innovations is a warp knitted terry cloth made using a bamboo yarn.

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Fig. 1: Shorts made of a warp knitted terry cloth made using a cotton and matrix polyester microfibre yarn

Fig. 2: The TM 4-TS EL 210" during the in-house show at KARL MAYER (CHINA) in June 2021

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021

KNITTING

Fig. 3: Warp knitted terry cloth article made using a yarn based on bamboo and a polyester microfibre yarn TERRY.ECO: The ecological way to produce warp chic, warp knitted terry articles also offer ecological benefits. The TM 4-TS EL model for processing staple knitted textiles yarns consumes approximately 87% less energy per KARL MAYER’s portfolio includes a full range of kilogram of fabric produced than air-jet weaving machines for the highly efficient and ecological looms, since it does not require any electrical power to production of terry cloth. The range includes warp generate compressed air. Also, no sizing process is knitting machines with an integrated brushing system, required. This saves on textile auxiliaries, effluent and as well as warping machines for processing filament energy costs – to the value of about 0.20 US dollars/kg, and staple yarns. These innovative solutions bear the or roughly 30% of the production costs for the grey title TERRY.ECO. Warp knitted terry cloth made in fabric (excluding the yarn). this way is extremely durable and can be designed in a variety of ways. It can be used to produce absorbent In addition to this, the TM 4-TS EL impresses with its cotton towels, as well as heavy towel qualities with improved efficiency. With a width of 186ʺ and a speed weights of up to 600 g/m² and double-sided terry of 800 rpm, the innovative model produces around cloths. In particular, terry warp knitting machines with 1,800 kg of terry cloth weighing 400 g/m 2 per day an electronic guide bar control system make loop-free when used in 24-hour operation. Its output is therefore areas possible for creating striped patterns, finished approximately 250% higher than that of an air-jet edges and small checks. What’s more, the lengths of weaving loom. Combining the TM 4-TS EL with the the towels, the patterns, and the terry loop pile height ISO COTTON direct warping machine is a can easily be changed within a fabric. Besides being particularly effective way of giving customers

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maximum efficiency when producing warp knitted while offering consistent quality. In light of the shift terry cloth made of cotton. from a price-driven market to a quality-driven one, the TM 4-TS EL 210 E 28 offers many competitive Larger working width, greater output advantages. As such, it was no surprise that the newcomer drew plenty of interest when it was The TM 4-TS EL has become even more productive launched at an in-house show at KARL MAYER with the latest extension to its working width, from 186 (CHINA) during ITMA ASIA + CITME in June 2021 to 210 Similar to its narrower counterpart, the super- (Fig. 2). The machine’s equipment includes a beam wide model achieves a speed of 800 rpm and is also attachment of 3 x 40 and 1 x 50 as well as KARL offered in gauges E 24 and E 28. Thanks to its higher MAYER’s carbon technology, which ensures high gauge and fabric density, it can be used to produce temperature stability in particular. premium-quality towels, which are currently in demand in China. Yarns made from bamboo viscose, greater variety Since the beginning of this year, China’s home textile in sustainable materials exports have been rising rapidly. According to an internal survey at KARL MAYER, customer numbers COVID-19 is confining people all over the world to have increased by around 54% in the first half of 2021 their homes and causing demand for comfortable compared to the same period last year. This upward leisurewear to soar. As a result, product developers are trend is expected to continue until the end of the year, working hard as well. In order to cater to the demand and is mainly a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. In for feel-good outfits, a cosy terry fabric has been the wake of this globally rampant and highly infectious created using a yarn obtained from bamboo cellulose, disease, people are staying at home and taking more thus also reflecting the trend towards sustainability interest in their own four walls. As part of the home (Fig. 3). The natural fibre material forms soft, textiles business, the towel market is also benefitting absorbent loops that are densely arranged on the inside from this. of the textile. The outside is made of a polyester For a long time, terry cloth bathroom items were microfibre yarn that creates an ultra-soft fleece layer. considered low-price in China. This attitude has A sporty set comprising a hooded jacket and jogging changed in recent years. On the one hand, improved trousers – made from this innovative double-faced living conditions have led to an increase in quality material – was presented at KARL MAYER’s booth at requirements, frequency and willingness to pay for ITMA ASIA + CITME in June 2021, where it attracted towels. On the other hand, the growing trend towards a great deal of attention. The warp knitted terry cloth customisation has led to new demands for use. was also an important topic at a company webinar held Nowadays, customers increasingly expect their towels shortly after the exhibition. not only to offer good drying properties, but also to be colourful, stylish and feel pleasant to the touch, all

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021

WEAVING Picanol launches new connect generation airjet and rapier weaving machines Picanol has introduced its latest generation of airjet and rapier weaving machines, which have been called the “Connect” generation. These new generation weaving machines focus on connectivity and an increased level of data availability. With this new generation, canol is launching several new functionalities such as a digitalized Gripper stroke setting, ripper tape monitoring, Climate control, Shed angle measurement, and fully integrated Power monitoring.

OptiMax-i Connect

OmniPlus-i Connect “Following the successful launch of our digital released a new generation of weaving machines, platform PicConnect earlier this month, we have now which are known as the Connect generation. Our 27

WEAVING As the machine has more sensors than ever before, it also generates more data. To enable a fast reaction to all these sensor data, the BlueBox control unit has been further optimized: better heat management guarantees short reaction cycles combined with the long lifetime of components. To have a good view of all of the data generated, a special sensor dashboard screen is available in the BlueTouch display: with a simple touch of the screen, the current and historical power consumption, temperature, humidity, material consumption, and – on the OmniPlus-i Connect – also the air consumption, can be monitored. The BlueTouch display is now also equipped with an Action center, an electronic logbook where all actions such as maintenance interventions can be logged or scheduled beforehand. The machine manual is now available on the BlueTouch display, and with the context-based help function the help pages related to the operation the user wants to perform appear with one touch of his/her fingertip. The built-in web browser even allows the user even to consult, for Smart Performance On the OptiMax-i Connect, Picanol has introduced a example, tutorial videos on the web to guide them lubrication monitoring sensor in combination with a through a setting procedure. temperature sensor. The combined data they provide allow the user to make sure the gripper tapes are in Intuitive Control optimal condition for maximum performance. As an The Connect generation was designed to focus on what option, a gripper stroke measurement sensor is also really matters: weave the highest possible grade A available. This not only dramatically simplifies the fabrics at minimal costs. A large set of tools have been setting of the gripper stroke, but also enables the user installed to facilitate this goal. One of the most to realize higher machine speeds when weaving remarkable ones is the Harness frame stroke reduced widths – a pure extra output combined with measurement – until recently, it was only available on the revolutionary Smart Shed, but it is now also more user-friendliness: a double win! available on the cambox and dobby machines. Combined with the shed visualization and simulation, Sustainability Inside Even though it was 25 years ago that the Sumo Drive it offers a quantum leap in terms of optimizing the concept was launched, it remains the most powerful, user’s shed settings without losing any time or taking versatile and energy friendly machine drive available. any risks. The colors of the programmable Smart And it has been even further optimized. It features an signal lights with stop timing functionality are now optimized sheet metal package for lower energy repeated around the push buttons, allowing even better consumption, optimized oil cooling circuit for a better visibility and the prioritization of interventions by the performance and a built-in temperature monitoring. weaver. A full fledged Access control system not only Moreover, the Connect machines can be equipped with limits the access to certain pages and settings a Power monitoring module, which allows the user to depending on the user, but also allows a tailored keep track of the power consumption of each machine dashboard to be established for each user profile. It is over time. Every Connect machine also has a built-in also clear that in combination with the new digital ambient temperature and humidity sensor, which will platform PicConnect, the Connect machines will help help to optimize the climate control in the weaving you to jump immediately to the next level of weaving shed at the lowest cost. And as raw material is the that we call “the era of intuitive weaving”. The biggest cost factor, each machine can also be equipped Connect machines were introduced to Picanol’s worldwide customers via a virtual show. You can with raw material use monitoring. w a t c h t h i s v i r t u a l s h o w a t www.picanol.be/media/video. Driven by Data Connect generation weaving machines can provide the correct data and are loaded with new and never-beforeseen functionalities. This is clear proof that for Picanol “Driven by Data” is not just a slogan but a commitment. Not only have these innovations allowed us to make big improvements when it comes to our four design principles – Smart Performance, Sustainability Inside, Intuitive Control, and, of course, Driven by Data – but when combined with our new digital platform they will allow you to amplify your own intuition.” comments Johan Verstraete, Vice President Weaving Machines. From now on, the range of Picanol weaving machines will have the “Connect” suffix. For the airjet weaving machines, this means: OmniPlus-i Connect and TerryPlus-i Connect, while for the rapier weaving machines, this means: OptiMax-i Connect and TerryMax-i Connect. These new machines are built around Picanol’s four main design principles:

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021

NONWOVENS

Successful INDEX exhibition

DiloGroup would like to thank all customers and interested parties for visiting the Dilo booth in Geneva. Despite the existing worldwide Covid, we were able to welcome a great number of well-known faces as well as meet new contacts, among them the most important nonwovens producers from across the world in all application areas: hygiene and lightweight nonwovens, technical textiles and needled nonwovens including geotextiles, filter media and automotive. The interest in using resource saving plant engineering, energy saving and the processing of natural fibres remains. Dilo presented its latest developments in industry 4.0.

Systematic plant monitoring and analysis of machine data allows simplified operation and more effective production. This smart system was illustrated with the aid of live analysis of the performance, quality and availability parameters of the production lines in our Textile Research Centre. The new production systems Hyperpunch Alpha, HyperTex and 3D-Lofter were explained with the aid of videos which led to a very positive responsive from the many different producers which are interested in running trials at the Dilo Textile Research Centre to further explore these subjects. These highlights and further new developments were the basis for fruitful technical discussions.

COUNTRY REPORT : CHINA Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 Concluded with Success

The Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 was held in Huzhou, Zhejiang province on October 15, which saw the participation of government officials from ministerial and local levels, and representatives from the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC), foreign government agencies and business associations, and industry-leading companies. Themed on “Sustainable Dual Circulation of Trade and Investment”, the conference aimed to accelerate the integration of domestic and international trade with a focus on increasing domestic demands, assess policy trends for industry growth, and launch insightful guidelines.

Foresights Evolving challenges and opportunities in a new era Xu Yingxin, Vice Chairman of CNTAC and Chairman of CCPIT TEX, stated in his welcome speech that this year marked the 8 th anniversary of the Belt and Road Initiative (BRI). Since its launch in 2013, the initiative has become one of the largest platforms for international cooperation with the most countries involved, bringing huge opportunities and dividends to all countries in the world. As the world is undergoing profound changes unseen in a century, the outbreak of COVID-19 has accelerated changes to the global landscape. In such a complex and volatile era, all countries are bound to share weal and woe. One of the options that can benefit all countries is making committed efforts to pursue high-quality progress in the BRI and strengthen amicable relations and cooperation between China and its neighbors to deliver more opportunities and benefits.

The Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 was guided by CNTAC and the Huzhou Municipal People’s Government, and hosted by the Sub-Council of Textile Industry of China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT TEX), China Textile Go Global Union (hereinafter referred to as the Union), and CCPIT Huzhou Committee. China’s textile and apparel industry, a steadfast

COUNTRY REPORT : CHINA supporter and participant of the BRI, has upheld principles of mutual benefits and win-win cooperation, yielding great achievements. China’s textile and apparel sector has played a leading role in the Belt and Road Initiative with fruitful cooperation along the route. Since 2000, the total foreign direct investments (FDIs) of the sector have exceeded 11billion USD, of which more than 70% have flowed to countries along the Belt and Road route. Making joint contributions to the BRI has become the consensus of the industry. Xiang Lemin, Deputy Mayor of Huzhou Municipal People’s Government, noted that during the 13th Five-Year Plan period (2016-2020), Huzhou’s GDP grew at an average annual rate of 7.1%, 0.6 percentage points higher than that of the province. The total fiscal revenue and general public budget revenue saw an average annual growth rate of 12.2% and 12% respectively, making the city rank number one in the province. Huzhou has been rated twice as one of the cities with stable industrial growth and remarkable achievements in transformation and upgrading by the General Office of the State Council. Under the guidance of the China National Textile and Apparel Council, the modern textile industry in Huzhou has taken steps towards high-quality growth. For one thing, as the city speeds up in achieving green and quality growth, it has established a whole supply chain that encompasses all processes from raw materials, weaving to end products. The annual output of the industry exceeds 70b RMB, and four textile companies in the city have gone public. For another, the Huzhou government encourages local companies to “go global” by participating in the BRI. From January to July, exports of textile and apparel products to countries along the Belt and Road reached 6.12b RMB in Huzhou, a year-on-year increase of 24.7%, accounting for 25.8% of the total exports to the BRI, which demonstrated huge potentials of the emerging city.

this new journey, the textile industry should pursue high-quality growth for the good of the public, further the supply-side structural reforms, and build a more reliable and innovative supply chain with greater flexibility and value added, thus boosting China’s competitiveness in textile. High-quality industry growth requires further international cooperation. The textile industry in China should focus on enhancing the competitiveness of domestic companies, strengthen the awareness of risk prevention and control, and build a supply chain that features mutual benefits and winwin cooperation, so as to explore diversified markets. This is in line with the requirements of the BRI in pursuing high-quality growth, and remains a necessity for building China into a textile giant. The Department of Consumer Goods of MIIT will promote policy coordination, support independent innovation and technological transformation, enhance industry upgrading, and create a sound business environment for textile companies to achieve quality growth.

Cao Xuejun, a senior official from the Department of Consumer Goods of the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology (MIIT), pointed out that as China has achieved moderate prosperity, the 14th Five-Year Plan period (2021-2025) is crucial for China to embark on a new journey of modernization. During

Insights Enhancing industry sustainability Gao Yong, SecretaryGeneral of China National Textile and Apparel Council, gave a keynote speech on “A New Era Leading to a Sustainable Dual Circulation of Trade and Investment in Textile Industry”. Mr. Gao observed that the textile industry has witnessed extraordinary outbound investments and cooperation in the past two years despite the heavy blow dealt by the COVID-19, and that the industry has managed to resume work and production despite challenging circumstances. He also analyzed challenges lying ahead that were brought by the pandemic and the new developmentpattern. He appealed to all the industry actors to work towards a safe, stable and sustainable future for the sector. According to Mr. Gao, outbound direct investments (ODIs) in China’s textile industry reached 950m USD, a year-on-year increase of 101.3%, accounting for 11.5% of the outbound investments in the country’s manufacturing sector. Sector performance varied though. Outbound direct investments in the textile &amp; apparel sector and clothing accessories sector totaled 80m USD, which remained the same as last year, accounting for 8.4% of the total of the textile industry. ODIs in the textile sector reached 250m USD, a year-on-year decrease of 26.5%, accounting

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COUNTRY REPORT : CHINA for 26.3% of the total. While the chemical fiber manufacturing sector saw a total of 620m USD outbound direct investments, a year-on-year increase of 1027%, accounting for 65.3% of the total. Hong Kong China, Vietnam and Singapore were main investment destinations. Mr. Gao believed that it is essential that companies evaluate the industry layout when doing business abroad, ensure the safety of the supply chain, and establish a safety early warning system. He highlighted the need to upgrade the industrial base, modernize the supply chain, and enhance high-end manufacturing capabilities. He also noted that peaking CO 2 emissions before 2030 and achieving carbon neutrality by 2060, major strategic decisions made by the Party Central Committee, are inherent requirements for high-quality growth and harmonious co-existence between mankind and the nature. All industry stakeholders need build a consensus that industry growth should go in line with national ecological strategies and do no harm to climate security for humankind, and practicing sustainable development is the responsibility of a textile giant, and an important way to increase industry value. Experience Exchanges Sustainable cross-border investments in textile under the Belt and Road Initiative In the first session of the Conference, representatives from governments, institutions and enterprises from home and abroad gave speeches on “Sustainable Cross-Border Investments in Textile Under the Belt and Road Initiative”, which presented opportunities for experience exchanges and cross-border cooperation. Dr. Moses Ikiara, Managing Director at Kenya Investment Authority (KenInvest) attended the conference via video link and talked about investment opportunities in Kenya’s fiber, textile and garment sectors. He pointed out that Kenya, a gateway to eastern and central Africa, is endowed with competitive advantages in terms of location that facilitate its engagement with neighboring and global markets.

innovative, and highly skilled labor force, a diversified economy, a free market, and no foreign exchange control. The middle-class keeps growing, driving up demands for high value products and services and securing a steady economic growth. The business environment is sound, as evidenced by a large number of multinational companies placing their African headquarters in Kenya. Also, the country is a regional transportation and logistics hub owing to its strategic location. He also mentioned that the textile and apparel industry is the core of the national economic agenda and has made significant contributions to exports and job creation in Kenya. As a beneficiary of the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), Kenya has played a leading role in exporting clothing to the United States. Dr. Ikiara also talked about Kenya’s investments, capital security and investment opportunities in the industry value chain. Mr. A. Sukumaran, Chairman of the Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF) in Sri Lanka, shared his insights into trade and investment opportunities of the country’s textile and apparel industry via video link. He began with an introduction to JAAF. According to him, exports of the local textile and apparel industry totaled 5.6b USD in 2019, making it the largest export industry in Sri Lanka. 42% of the imported fabric comes from China, the biggest supplier for Sri Lanka, with the trade volume totaled 968m USD. The United States, the European Union, and the United Kingdom are major trading partners for Sri Lanka’s exports. As to investment advantages in Sri Lanka, Mr. Sukumaran mentioned the high ease of doing business, world-class manufacturing facilities/services, a capable and flexible labor force, as well as the preferential market access in the EU and the UK.

He observed that looking ahead, the textile and apparel industry in Sri Lanka will strengthen backward integration, and work with more foreign governments to maintain and improve export market access, so as to He mentioned several advantages of investing in expand into more markets and bring itself to a new Kenya. For instance, the country has a hard-working, level.

COUNTRY REPORT : CHINA Qian Anhua, Chairman and General Manager of Antex (Deqing) Fashion Co., Ltd. shared his experience in overseas operations in his speech “Antex Group’s Overseas Investment Path”, and noted that the implementation of the BRI has great influence worldwide, with the textile and apparel industry as a pioneer of the initiative. Antex Group has brought its production and operations to Spain, New York, Vietnam, and Ethiopia, where there is strong growth potential, especially African economies. Mr. Qian elaborated on the global business environment, demographic structures, resource allocation and government support in African markets, and introduced his company’s management team and technologies which help the company to break into new markets. Chen Yan (Karen Chen), CEO of Challenge Fashion (Pakistan) Limited, attended the conference via video link. In her speech, “Challenge’s Experience in Textile Industry Investments in Pakistan”, Ms. Chen introduced the company’s operations in Pakistan and advantages of local export policies, investments in Pakistan made by companies with Chinese investment, and the Pakistani government’s emphasis on Chinese investments. Ms. Chen said that Pakistan has investment advantages in terms of bilateral relations with China, people-to-people exchanges, labor costs, production technologies, business management, tariff treatments and export policies. Expert Perceptions A mutually reinforcing dual circulation of domestic and foreign markets Zhao Mingxia, Vice President of Industrial Economy Research Instituteat CNTAC, shared her views on challenges and opportunities facing China’s textile and apparel industry in foreign trade and investment patterns in her speech “Demand Trends in the International Textile and Apparel Market”. From the perspective of market demands, she observed that China has witnessed the fastest growth in total consumption in the past years, contributing to 48% of the global economy. This shows that emerging economies and developing countries have driven up demands, while developed economies still play a significant role in fiber consumption.

She believed that every endeavor made and experience shared by companies remains the cornerstone and a driving force during the journey of advancing the Belt and Road Initiative. Special Event Deepening international capacity cooperation The third session of the conference witnessed the issuance of the report, African Countries’ Textile Industry Development Capabilities and the Cooperation Potential between China and Africa in Textile Industry, and an establishment ceremony of the first batch of overseas liaison offices of the China Textile Go Global Union. The report was commissioned to a research team from CCPIT TEX by the Department of African Affairs of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The report analyzes 54 countries in Africa from a multi-dimensional perspective, establishes a model evaluation system to further study the industry conditions and trade and investment environment in eight key countries with investment and trade potentials (Egypt, Ethiopia, Kenya, Morocco, South Africa, Nigeria, Nigeria, Tanzania and Tunisia), and to discuss cooperation opportunities between China and Africa. To give better play of the Union as a platform for further cooperation, the Union decided to set up overseas liaison offices in Egypt, Cambodia, Myanmar, Vietnam, and Zambia, which were announced at the Conference. Representatives from the liaison offices extended their congratulations via video. The Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 offered excellent speeches on and insights into the sustainable dual circulation of trade and investment, and served as a platform for industry stakeholders to discuss new paths towards more diverse and higher-quality growth. All players in the textile industry are well-prepared and determined to embark on a new journey towards high-quality growth.

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TECHNOLOGY A new dynamic for the TMAS board TMAS – the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – has appointed three new members to its board.

The new TMAS board members (left to right) Sven Öquist, Jerker Krabbe and Semir Pavlica. Jerker Krabbe of Eton Systems, Semir Paclica of Baldwin at the SEB banking group before joining Baldwin Technology and Sven Öquist of Coloreel will contribute a Technology five ago. He is now managing the wealth of experience from a wide range of industries to the company’s process improvement and performance. association. “This is an exciting role as Baldwin Technology continues Jerker Krabbe joined Eton Systems –a leader in intelligent to make inroads with its game changing non-contact spray overhead conveyor systems – as CEO six months ago, and technology for the textile finishing sector,” he says. “I’m has more than 25 years of commercial, operational and data driven, have an analytical mind-set and an eye for international experience within several well-known marketing, combined with a drive and an enthusiasm to companies such as Electrolux, Husqvarna, Gunnebo and learn. I’m happy to be contributing to improving the market Assa Abloy, and most recently as CEO of Sector Alarm AB. exposure of all TMAS members and the targeted customer approach taken by the association.” “Eton Systems has implemented a number of growth and innovation strategies in recent years that have contributed to Sven Öquist joined Coloreel as Vice President of Sales in the company’s leading market position,” he says. “After six April this year. He has an international background with months, I’m finally getting to grips with the complexity of previous positions as Managing Director/CEO for a number the textile industry and happy to be contributing my of Swedish companies. He has also led the global sales team commercial experience to both Eton and the board of at Polestar, the electrified brand of Volvo Cars. TMAS. I want to continue to broaden my knowledge within the textile industry, but also learn and share my experiences “We grew the company from being a small privately-owned brand to becoming Volvo Cars third best selling accessory with the team. globally,” he says. “I think I can contribute a lot of what I “The textile machinery industry is moving forward fast on a learned on that journey to both Coloreel and the TMAS digitalization journey which I believe will benefit countries board. My job at Coloreel is to build a global sales team and like Sweden,” he adds. “There is a growing trend of structure with local presence in several markets as the reshoring manufacturing back to developed countries and company continues to generate industry excitement with its therefore a need for further automation. Here I think many instant thread coloring technology for more creative and members of TMAS can contribute and really take advantage more sustainable embroideries.” of the change. It will also be increasingly important to have an environmentally positive footprint and I think that is a “I’m happy to welcome Jerker, Semir and Sven to the huge opportunity for us as an association to work together.” TMAS board,” says TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. “They will bring fresh perspectives and Semir Pavlica has a master’s in finance and started his career experiences and an altogether new dynamic to the table.” 35

INDIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY Strategy to Develop a Facilitating Ecosystem for Growth of The Textiles Engineering Industry (TEI) In India

The Office Bearers of Textiles Machinery Manufactures Association (India), led by Mr. Vallabh Thumar-Chairman (CMD-Weavetech Group), Mr. Sachin Kumar Executive Director, and foremost indigenous and foreign Textiles Machine Manufacturers had a hybrid interaction (Physical + Virtual) with the Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Shri Piyush Goyal Ji and Hon’ble Minister for State for Textiles, Smt. Darshana Vikram Jardosh Ji on 22 nd October 2021 to develop a facilitating Ecosystem for growth of the Textiles Engineering Industry (TEI) in India under Atmanirbhar Bharat. These interactions were held to chalk out a future roadmap for the Indian TEI to be able compete globally in all industry segments on strength of Technology and scale, Initiatives towards Atmanirbhar Bharat to Meet 75% of domestic demand by 2026-27. Another objective of interface was to seek Reduction in Production Cost, Augmentation of Quality Standards, and Enhancement of Value exports for the Textile Machinery Manufacturing in India. Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Shri Piyush Goyal Ji and Hon’ble Minister for State for Textiles, Smt. Darshana Vikram Jardosh Ji had interactions with the Chairman/President of the Textiles Machinery Manufactures Association (India) and CMDs/ MDs/ India heads of the leading indigenous and foreign Textiles Machine Manufacturers through video conferencing on 22nd October, 2021 at 05:30 PM with regard to possible strategy to develop a facilitating Ecosystem for growth of the Textiles Engineering Industry (TEI) in India under Make in India in order to (1) Compete globally in all industry segments on strength of Technology and scale, (2) Initiatives towards Atmanirbhar Bharat: Meet 75% of domestic demand by 2026-27 and (3) Cost reduction for the Textile Manufacturers and Enhancement of Value exports. In this meeting 15 textile machines manufactures of foreign regions; 20 leading indigenous textile manufactures and 7 textile machinery and associated industry associations have participated and submitted their view points. 36

Ministry of Textiles, Government of India being the Ministry of user industry of textile machines and with the aim to reduce the capital cost of our textiles and apparel manufactures is well aware that the machinery is the most critical input underlying the production and capacities of the whole Textile value chain. However, there are various issues hindering manufacturing of Textile Machinery used particularly for weaving, knitting, processing, embroidery, garmenting and technical textiles subsectors benchmarked to international standards. Presently 75% of requirement of machinery is being imported and though we have certain strengths, domestic Textile Engineering Industry is able to meet 25% of requirements. As such a number of measures with PLI and MITRA have been taken to expand the Textile production and export which consequently would result in higher demand of Technology and machinery. Kalam Institute of Health Technology (KIHT), Visakhapatnam (which has developed required infrastructure for manufacturing of medical devices in a limited time) after due consultations with all related stakeholders, has suggested manufacturing of critical components of the textiles machines as one of the interventions for promotions. These are at present being imported by our textiles machine manufactures. Hence, manufacturing of critical components needs critical support consideration since strengthening of the vertical would enable reducing costs while augmenting benchmark technology riding on possibilities of Make in India. This would contribute to value enhancement and employment generation. Efforts of strengthening Machinery manufacturing would go a long way in our quest for sustainable Textile ecosystem, enhancement of value exports of Textile goods and contribute significantly to building an Atmanirbhar Bharat. Based on the submissions and inputs provided by the industry leaders during this interaction meeting, Government would be able to further strengthen the ecosystem among the related ministries as well as related industry associations including IT Industry, machine tools and plastic industries for manufacturing of the textiles machinery .

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NONWOVENS ANDRITZ to supply a high-speed spunlace line to Welspun, India

ANDRITZ neXline spunlace eXcelle line source “Photo: ANDRITZ”.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from Welspun Advanced Materials, India, to deliver a complete neXline spunlace line for the production of nonwoven roll goods and wipes for their new plant in Hyderabad, Telangana. The line has a capacity of up to three tons per hour. Start-up of the line is scheduled for the fourth quarter of 2021. The ANDRITZ high-capacity spunlace line will process various types of synthetic or natural fibers, such as polyester, viscose and cotton. The final products will have fabric weights ranging from 25 to 120 gsm, thus covering many applications. This neXline spunlace line also offers the option to integrate a third component from a selection of smart layers, enabling Welspun to also manufacture products for the health care and hygiene sectors.

environment-conscious. Our choice of ANDRITZ as our partner matches our shared view, which has a bias towards sustainable technologies. ANDRITZ’s neXline spunlace can provide savings on energy and water with the technology delivered. Welspun focuses on sustainability, and our site itself is being developed in compliance with the “Indian Green Building Certification.”

Welspun is the largest global exporter of home textiles. Innovation and quality lie at the heart of the company’s success, which already has nonwoven production lines in operation, including needlepunch and spunlace equipment. With its new plant in Telangana, Welspun will significantly increase its existing spunlace capacity and also maintain a broad range of applications as the final products are used in hygiene, home care and industrial cleaning. The new, advanced Cherian Thomas, CEO of Welspun Advanced Textiles, facility is a 100,000 sqm greenfield development that says: “We believe that the global demand for is part of a larger 1,500,000 sqm industrial complex disposable products will show solid growth as also accommodating the Welspun floorings facility. economies and consumers become more hygiene- and

POLYESTER RECYCLING Interview – How spinning and recycling go together at BB Engineering

Matthias Schmitz, Head of Engineering Recycling Technology (left) and Dr Klaus Schäfer, Managing Director of BB Engineering GmbH (right).

As a medium-sized German machine construction business, BB Engineering has been manufacturing components and systems for synthetic fiber and film production for more than 20 years. For several years now, the company has been concentrating on recycling system development work. We discussed just how the seemingly different business units interact and how the recycling business profits from the existing extrusion and spinning systems know-how with Dr Klaus Schäfer, Managing Director, and Mr Matthias Schmitz, Head of Engineering Recycling Technology. Interviewer: Dr Schäfer, BB Engineering has its origins in the manufacture of extrusion and filtration systems for synthetic fiber spinning equipment. How did you come to open a new business unit dedicated to PET recycling?

VarioFil type ‘R’, which also spins rPET granulate into high-end yarn. And, in 2016, we went a step further with the type ‘R+’: the direct processing of bottle flakes using our compact spinning system – in other words, recycling and spinning in a single step. The background to this was to dispense with the intermediate step of producing the granulate, hence saving lots of energy and cutting conversion costs, and to create high quality POY from bottle flakes. Interviewer: What potential benefits do you see in the recycling of synthetic fibers?

Dr Klaus Schäfer: You are fundamentally right. Our original business was, and remains, focused on components such as extruders and filters for processing the most diverse polymers into synthetic fibers, but also into films and on developing and distributing other products. Soon, our portfolio was complemented by our own compact spinning system – in the form of the VarioFil. Our extruder and filters have also been used for rPET for many years now. We first supplied components for rPET back in 2005. For these reasons, PET recycling was not something completely new to us. In 2012, we unveiled the

Dr Klaus Schäfer: Apart from the social responsibility of acting in a resource and environmentally-friendly manner, we believe that recycling fibers presents our customers with considerable commercial opportunities. Firstly, there is production waste. Despite spinning technology becoming ever better, there is always waste in the form of B-quality goods, caused by over-production and during start-up and retooling. Instead of simply disposing of this – in view of constantly rising prices for raw materials and decreasing availability nevertheless valuable material, it is far more economical to process it and return it to the production process. Yarn manufacturers can not only cut costs, they also become more autonomous. Furthermore, general developments, such as increasing population densities and fast fashion, are creating ever greater

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POLYESTER RECYCLING

Matthias Schmitz and Dr Klaus Schäfer by the VacuFil test system at the company HQ in Remscheid.

demand for polyester and polyester fibers. Here, many major textiles manufacturers have set themselves ambitious targets with regards to the utilization of recycled fibers. So, you can now see that the potential benefits of fiber recycling are tremendous. Interviewer: So, VarioFil R/R+ was a huge milestone for BB Engineering. You are now expanding your portfolio with the VacuFil. What exactly is the VacuFil and how does this system differ from the VarioFil R/R+? Matthias Schmitz: The starting point for the VacuFil was the aim of offering our clientèle a zero-waste spinning system with which they can reutilize their own production waste. Very much in line with the circular economy. The VacuFil recycles this waste. The VarioFil then spins the processed material. Whereby the VacuFil stands on its own, of course, and can also be combined with a granulation process and other further processing procedures. Equally, starting materials other than spinning waste can be processed as well – such as bottle waste, trays, films, etc. On the one hand, these of course have completely different properties and, on the other hand, the requirements of the subsequent recycled material also vary depending on the end use. To ensure the VacuFil is able to fulfill such changing recycling tasks in a reliable and reproducible manner, the flexible controlling of the intrinsic viscosity was the top priority during development. 39

Interviewer: Where do you acquire your know-how? Processing virgin material into films and filaments and recycling polyester are actually two completely different processes. Dr Klaus Schäfer: Of course, these are two completely different processes, but we view the necessary conversion into recycled material from perspective of the end product. The desired properties of the end product determine the requisite quality of the starting material and hence also the requirements for the recycled materials and their production. We come full circle. Hence, we know precisely what is important when recycling PET to ensure that further processors are able to use it to create high-quality products. Interviewer: In theory, that sounds very promising. What does the performance look like in practice? Matthias Schmitz: Our trials have shown that – in the right configuration our high end extrusion and, above all, our filtration technologies are able to produce high-end rPET granulate for high-quality POY or FDY. Our system creates an intrinsic-viscosity buildup of up to 0.15 dl/g and homogeneity fluctuations of just ± 0.01 dl/g. We have achieved outstanding results in our tests. In part, the recycled materials from our VacuFil systems even offer superior spinning properties compared to the virgin material used in the

POLYESTER RECYCLING

The VacuFil test system at the company HQ in Remscheid is available for customers and interested parties for material and process testing.

tests – particularly with regards to spinning breaks and lint formation. We offer our test system to customers and other interested parties for specific material and process tests.

Interviewer: Mr Schmitz, you mentioned that the VacuFil is compatible with various further processing procedures. What possibilities do manufacturers actually have?

Interviewer: These are surprisingly positive results, considering you normally have to accept compromises when using recycled materials. How have you achieved this? What is so special about the VacuFil process?

Matthias Schmitz: You can combine the VacuFil with various pelleting units. However, you can also feed the recycled melt from the VacuFil directly into the further processing systems, regardless of whether these are spinning systems, film production units or other manufacturing processes. There are many possible options. BB Engineering also offers several optional add-ons for the VacuFil. For example, our 3DD mixing system, which enables the recycled material to be returned to the virgin polymer flow in a polycondensation system. This mixing system can also be used to add additives, masterbatches and similar to the rPET melt. Overall, the VacuFil is extremely modular and flexible.

Matthias Schmitz: Fundamentally, we use liquidstate polycondensation, which cleans more effectively than solid-state polycondensation processes. But the truly special feature with the VacuFil is, above all, our Visco+ component. With this, we have developed a unique vacuum filter system for viscosity build-up and viscosity homogenization. We currently have a patent pending here. Add to this the interaction with high-end extrusion, large-area filtration and the excellent degasification technology. Interviewer: A really exciting system. We wish you continued success and thank you for talking to us! Dr Klaus Schäfer: The right configuration of these Dr Klaus Schäfer: We would also like to thank you units is absolutely decisive. We are proud that we have succeeded here, drawing on our many years of extrusion and filtration expertise.

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