September-October 2023
Editorial
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First in Finishing in Guatemala
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The Emergent Textile Era
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Textile Renaissance
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India’s Next Textile Epicenter
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Excellence in Textiles: Celebrating TMMA’s Top Achievers of 2022-2023
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Future of Technical Textiles
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Weaving a Legacy of Innovation and Excellence
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A profitable investment, ready for the upturn Savings now and future growth
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Clear success
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ITAMMA Advances SMART DATA Clinic with Skilling and Lean Schemes
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The Textile Revolution in Digital Factory Management
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Pioneering Sustainable Collaborations in the Fiber World
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MATEXIL Celebrates Technical Textiles Achievements with Export Awards
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Textile Innovations at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2023: Riding on China's Economic Revival In a world constantly evolving, the realm of textile machinery is no different. This year marks a significant comeback for the industry, with ITMA ASIA + CITME emerging as the leading business platform in Asia. Scheduled to unveil its latest innovations from the 19th to the 23rd of November 2023 in the heart of Shanghai, this combined exhibition has garnered attention from over 1,400 exhibitors across 24 countries and regions. 07798189485
This enthusiasm doesn't arise from a vacuum. A buoyant sentiment echoes through the industry corridors, anchored by the robust performance of China's economy. Outpacing its own projections, the International Monetary Fund (IMF) recently adjusted its outlook for China's 2023 GDP growth to a promising 5.2%, up from an earlier 4.4%. As the dynamo of the region's expansion, China's reopened economy lends renewed vigour to the textile machinery domain. Ernesto Maurer, the visionary President of CEMATEX, encapsulates this sentiment, "China's revitalised economy acts as the lynchpin, cementing its position as a crucial catalyst for regional growth. In the words of Mr Gu Ping, President of China Textile Machinery Association, “The increased participation, up by 15% from previous editions, showcases a diversified technological front, adding zest and momentum to the industry's evolution.” Further bolstering this upbeat sentiment is China's decisive step to relax its stringent COVID protocols and reopen its borders. Many exhibitors, recognizing the growing potential, have expanded their presence. Leading names like Muratec, Saurer, Savio, TMT Machinery, and Trützschler stand out, with the latter's Managing Director, Mr Harald Schoepp, sharing an optimistic view of the future, highlighting plans to unveil the company's latest machinery and solutions.
India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Srilanka, Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand, China, HongKong, USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, U.K. & France
In conclusion, as the world gradually recovers and seeks new avenues of growth, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2023 serves as a beacon of hope for the textile machinery sector. Organized by the Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co., Ltd and co-organised by ITMA Services, the event promises not just an exhibition but a global gathering of innovation, resilience, and the indomitable spirit of enterprise. 10
September-October 2023
PROCESSING
First in Finishing in Guatemala
From left to right: Axel Pieper and Regina Brückner (CEO Brückner), Francisco Solares (GM and Vice President of Texpasa), Juan Niemann (Brückner representative in Guatemala) Texpasa is a family business whose roots go back to relocation of the machines from Guatemala City to 1978. Through various historical stages such as yarn Palin also shows us that Brückner is a service partner spinning, circular, and flat-bed knitting, Texpasa has we can rely on even in the case of big challenges. The evolved into a state-of-the-art company that knits, machines were carefully dismantled and packed with dyes, and finishes a variety of textiles for the apparel Brückner's support. They arrived in good condition market. In addition to its first plant in Guatemala City, and are being reassembled and put into operation Texpasa completed its second plant in 2020 at the without any problems." Michatoya Industrial Park in Palin in-corporating A total of seven Brückner stenter frames with vertical knitting, dyeing, and finishing facilities. The original chains will be operating in the Michatoya plant from factory is being consolidated into the new facility and the start of 2024. The latest POWER-FRAME stenter the Brückner stenters, the first of which has been in with 10 bays was put into operation in 2022. All operation since 2007, are currently being moved to Brückner stenters in the Michatoya Industrial Park are counter-construction. Thus, the heating and Palin with the support of Brückner technicians. ventilation elements change the dryer side every 1.5 David Franco, Maintenance Manager of Texpasa, is meters, which leads to an absolutely uniform air highly satisfied with the support of the service team: admission, i.e. a very homogeneous air quantity and "Brückner builds high-quality machines and offers temperature distribution over the entire fabric web excellent service. We have known this since the width. They offer the highest possible drying purchase of our first stenter. The support during the performance and process control matched to the fabric 11
PROCESSING
Brückner stenter at Texpasa quality thanks to the technically mature and proven meters of water per hour. After treatment, the water split-flow ventilation system. This is extremely meets or exceeds all purity regulations. important for the major sports and leisure brands in Francisco Solares, GM and Vice President of Texpasa which Texpasa supports. Robust and low-maintenance puts it in a nutshell: "The Brückner machines perfectly chains, chain bars, and pin bar carriers stand for long fit our demanding sustainability concept. The quality service life and low wear. The finishing results are of the finished fabric is excellent and the stenters exactly reproducible and overdrying of the fabric impress with energy efficiency and low production during machine standstill is excluded by the air bypass costs. We appreciate very much that Brückner system. Minimal air pressure losses and high-quality accompanies us as an innovative supplier of highinsulation result in the lowest possible electrical and quality textile finishing lines and reliable service thermal energy consumption and thus in low partner". Brückner appreciates this long-standing customer, too: Regina Brückner, CEO says: "As a production costs. traditional and highly innovative family-owned Sustainability is important to Texpasa in numerous company, we attach great importance to sustainability aspects: The company has allocated capex into both in our production facilities and in our products. sustainable and reusable green energy, e.g. Texpasa is a very good example of how investing in the photovoltaics, and biomass, and has planted together future, sustainability, and environmental protection with partners 60,000 trees in a biomass forest for the can go hand in hand. We are very pleased about this future, thus reducing the CO2 footprint. Another long-standing cooperation and wish Texpasa sustainability building block is the wastewater continued success.” treatment center, with a capacity of up to 100 cubic 12
September-October 2023
TECHNOLOGY
The Emergent Textile Era: Reflections from the 63rd Annual General Meeting of TMMA
In the bustling heart of Mumbai's business district, at resilience. While global events caused tremors in the esteemed ITME Center in Dalamal Tower, the supply chains, domestic production remained strong, Textile Machinery Manufacturers' Association (India) highlighting India's inherent strengths and held its 63rd Annual General Meeting. Chaired by Mr. capabilities. A notable 24% production increase and a Pratik Bachkaniwala, the ambiance was filled with commendable export surge indicate a promising promise, retrospection, and a profound sense of trajectory for TEI. direction for the future. The proactive approach of the government, through The Chairman began his address with a profound schemes like the Amended Technology Upgradation acknowledgment of distinguished guests, Fund and Production Linked Incentives, showcases a emphasizing the Association's drive for collaboration, renewed vigor for domestic manufacturing. The especially with stalwarts like Dr. Navneet Mohan emphasis is clear – Make in India is not just a slogan; Kothari of MPIDC and Mr. Sunil Patwari of Texprocil. it's a roadmap for the future. The past year, as Bachkaniwala describes, was a "Year However, the crux of the Chairman's address lies in his of Logic Defying Phenomenon." A world shadowed by valediction. As he bids adieu to his role, he remains global crises, especially the Ukraine-Russia conflict, hopeful, expressing gratitude to his peers and saw nations tread cautiously, shifting their focus from colleagues. It's evident – while individuals might bilateral agendas to more comprehensive, multilateral change, the collective vision of the TMMA remains dialogues. The Chairman's commentary highlights the unwavering. changing world order, underscoring India's rising As the association looks forward to a future filled with leadership. challenges and opportunities, the torch is passed on to In the realm of economics, while global dynamics new hands. The road ahead requires innovation, exhibited unexpected turns, India showcased resilience, and collaboration. resilience. Overtaking the UK to become the world's 5th largest economy, it stands poised to supersede The ceremony culminated with the Export and R&D Germany in the coming years. A testament to India's Awards, which celebrated outstanding contributions to emerging economic might can be gauged from the India's textile machinery industry. widespread adoption of its Unified Payments Interface (UPI) system across nations and its increasing bilateral In essence, the 63rd Annual General Meeting was not trade in its national currency, the Indian National just an event; it was a beacon of hope and a testament to India's textile industry's unwavering spirit in the face Rupee (INR). of unprecedented challenges. The horizon is bright, The Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) mirrored this and the journey continues.
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BUSINESS NEWSLINE
Textile Renaissance: India's Path to Global Dominance by 2030
The AGM of TMMA held on 21st September 2023 was not just another annual gathering. It But scaling this summit demands investment – marked a significant turn in India's textile approximately $75 billion. This capital will narrative, illuminated by insights from primarily be channelled into advanced machinery, distinguished luminaries of the sector. As we infused with the prowess of Artificial Intelligence reflect on Mr. Sunil Patwari's special address, (AI) and machine learning. The ITMA 2023 Chairman of TEXPROCIL, it's evident that exhibition in Milan reaffirmed this global shift India's textile industry stands at the threshold of an towards technology and sustainability. unprecedented revolution. Yet, the journey isn't solely about machines and The presence of young enthusiasts, alongside the investment. It's about harnessing India's rich veterans, paints a promising picture of the future. textile legacy while embracing modern India's demographic dividend, with its large innovations. Initiatives like the forthcoming young population, sets the stage for rapid Mega Textile Show in 2024, and branding economic and industrial growth. With leadership endeavours such as 'Kasturi Cotton India', visions laid out by the Hon'ble Prime Minister, indicate India's dual strategy of showcasing Shri Narendra Modi Ji, and strategies championed tradition and adopting innovation. by Shri Piyush Goyal Ji, Minister of Commerce and Industry, there is renewed vigour towards The manmade segment of textiles, as highlighted by Mr. Patwari, remains another crucial frontier. making India a developed nation by 2047. With China's manmade exports leading globally, Key projections shared by Mr. Patwari underline it's a segment India cannot afford to overlook. India's ambition. The nation aims to amplify the textile market size from its current $150 billion to In summary, India's textile narrative is evolving, a staggering $300 billion by 2030. An important and the industry stands at a pivotal juncture. The slice of this pie is India's aspiration to grow textile baton rests with entities like TMMA to drive this exports from $40 billion to $100 billion within the growth, ensuring that India not only realizes but same timeframe. Factors such as the China plus surpasses its textile aspirations. Mr. Patwari's one sourcing policy, aggressive Free Trade closing sentiments encapsulate this collective Agreement (FTA) conclusions, and varied hope and endeavour, ushering in a brighter, government schemes signal India's dedication to prosperous future for India's textile industry. this goal.
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September-October 2023
BUSINESS NEWSLINE Madhya Pradesh: India's Next Textile Epicenter Dr. Navneet Mohan Kothari IAS Managing Director, MPIDC & Secretary, DIPIP Government of Madhya Pradesh,India
From the ancient threads dating back to 4000 BC to the woven intricacies synonymous with modern India, the nation's textiles narrate tales of patience, perseverance, and unparalleled artistry. This sentiment, that “In every thread of India's fabric, there's a story of patience and perseverance that adds color to our life,” is more than mere words. It encapsulates India's age-old textile legacy.
but about creating an ecosystem - from raw materials to finished products, reducing logistical challenges, and providing end-to-end solutions. The forthcoming PM Mitra Park, sprawling across 1563 acres in Bhensola, Dhar, is set to redefine industrial standards. Offering unparalleled connectivity, this park stands within a stone's throw from the Delhi Mumbai Greenfield Expressway node running through Ratlam. Such strategic positioning ensures swift domestic market access. But it's not just about infrastructure; it's about creating an ecosystem. The park promises top-tier amenities, housing, commercial centers, and all essential operational infrastructures, ensuring businesses have everything they need within arm's reach.
The honor of addressing the 63rd AGM of TMMA, an institution standing strong for over half a century on principles of self-reliance and sustainability, is not lost on me. Looking back, India's rich textile history is remarkable. Our ancient ties to cotton, for instance, were so profound that even civilizations like Greece and Babylon associated the name 'India' directly with 'cotton'. Admittedly, while we took time in embracing modern textile technologies, the An ecosystem, however, is only as strong as its talent pool. allure of Indian fabrics remained unwavering. Recognizing this, MP has actively bridged the gap between Today, India proudly stands as the sixth-largest global academia and industry. Premier institutions like NIFT and exporter of textiles and apparel products. The textiles sector NID in Bhopal and IIITDM in Jabalpur ensure a steady contributed an impressive 11.4% of our total exports in influx of skilled professionals. Such endeavors guarantee 2020-21, reasserting its significance in the global market. In that the textile industry in MP remains innovative, adaptive, this respect, the PM's 5F strategy – from Farm to Foreign – and globally competitive. finds its embodiment in Madhya Pradesh's (MP) initiatives. In conclusion, the path ahead for Madhya Pradesh in the Madhya Pradesh, often termed the heart of India, has been at textiles sector is bright and promising. For stakeholders in the forefront of textile innovation and production. It's home textile machinery manufacturing, this presents a golden to industry stalwarts. Take, for example, Grasim in Nagda or opportunity. Establishing a base in MP not only aligns with Trident Group's terry towel plant in Budni. Such the state's vision but also promises significant returns. The establishments underscore the state's potential. state offers a chance to reduce import dependencies, bolster Additionally, under the Production-Linked Incentive (PLI) the local industry, and be part of a growth story that's set to Scheme for Textiles, MP has clinched the largest proposed redefine India's textile landscape. investment, approximately INR 35.13 billion. This remarkable feat showcases investor confidence in MP's To all industry leaders and stakeholders, I extend an invitation. Participate in this journey. Contribute to the textile sector. vision of transforming Madhya Pradesh into a $550 billion The ethos of Atma Nirbhar Bharat, which translates to a self- GDP powerhouse. The threads of opportunity are reliant India, has found a fervent champion in MP. The interwoven in MP's fabric, waiting to be realized and integrated park initiative is a testament to this commitment. celebrated. It promises a textile park that's not just about manufacturing 15
TECHNOLOGY
Excellence in Textiles: Celebrating TMMA's Top Achievers of 2022-2023 a) Apex Export Award: The Apex Award Winner is: Rieter India Pvt. Ltd., Pune During the year their overall turnover was Rs. 2607 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 822 crores.
Recipients of the Award are: - Mr. Pankaj Dangra, Head Marketing and Ms. Shubhra Khanvilkar, Head Commerce of the Company.
Segment Export Awards: i) Machinery Sector: Winner of the Award is: Lakshmi Machines Works, Ltd., Coimbatore In 2022-23 their overall turnover was Rs. 3487 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 760 crores.
Recipients of the Award is: Mr. N. Jayakumar, Country Manager, Turkey of the Company 16
September-October 2023
TECHNOLOGY ii) For Parts & Accessories Sector: Winner of the Award is: Luwa India Pvt. Ltd., Bangalore In the year gone by, they had an overall turnover of Rs. 307 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 41 crores.
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Rijesh Raman, Finance Director of the Company. iii) For Textile Testing, Monitoring & Controlling Instruments Sector: Winner of the Award is: Premier EvolvicsPvt. Ltd., Coimbatore During the year they had an overall turnover of Rs. 134 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 49 crores.
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. V Srinivasan, CEO of the Company 17
TECHNOLOGY Special Export Awards: i) Spinning Machinery Sector: Winner of the Award is: Saurer Textile Solutions Pvt. Ltd., Vadodara During the year their overall turnover was Rs. 638 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 438 crores.
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Ashok Juneja, Director- Sales & Services of the Company. ii) Synthetic Machinery Sector: Winner of the Award is: Bhagat Textile Engineers, Surat During the year their overall turnover was Rs. 169 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 102 crores.
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Deepak Wadia
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September-October 2023
TECHNOLOGY iii) Processing Machinery Sector: Winner of the Award is: Kusters Calico Machinery Pvt. Ltd., Vadodara In 2022-23 their overall turnover was Rs. 59 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 41 crores.
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Sushil Verma, Managing Director of the Company. iv) Parts and Accessories Sector: Winner of the Award is: Sieger SpintechEquipments Pvt Ltd, Coimbatore During the year their overall turnover was Rs. 142 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 44 crores.
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. P. Sathyanandan, Vice President – Sales of the Company.
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TECHNOLOGY v) Small Scale Sector: MachineryWinner of the Award is: Yamuna Machine Works Ltd., Mumbai In the year their overall turnover was Rs. 149 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 44 crores.
Recipient of the Award are: Mr. Prashant Mangukia, Managing Director and Mr. G. V. Aras, Advisor of the Company. vi) Small Scale Sector: Parts & Accessories Winner of the Award is: Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore During the year they had an overall turnover of Rs. 166 crores out of which their total weighted export (direct + indirect) was Rs. 37 crores.
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. B. Anirudth, General Manager-Administration of the Company.
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September-October 2023
TECHNOLOGY 1) RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT AWARDS: The Award winners are: 1) The Indian Card Clothing Pvt. Ltd., Pune for their development of “NON-WOVEN CARD SERVICING MACHINE”
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Ashok Kumar Pal, Designation – Vice President (Product Development & Technical Support) of the Company. 2)
Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd., Coimbatore for their development of “CARD LC636S”
Recipient of the Award are: Mr S Rajasekaran,Sr.Vice President R & D of the Company
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TECHNOLOGY 3) Premier Evolvics, Coimbatore for their development of “PREMIER UNIQ: FOR CONTAMINATION SORTER”
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. V Srinivasan, CEO of the Company.
4)
Stovec Industries Ltdfor their development of “TEAK UNIVERSAL REPEAT-”
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Shailesh Wani, MD of the Company.
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September-October 2023
TECHNOLOGY 5) A Certificate of Appreciation is awarded to Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd., Coimbatore for their development of “CARD LC361S.”
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Man Chandra Sekaran – Senior Manager R& D of the Company.
6) A Certificate of Appreciation is awarded to Mag Solvics Private Limited, Coimbatore for their development of “HVT Genius 2, High Volume Fibre Testing Instrument.”
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Senthil Kumar - DGM - R&D of the Company
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TECHNOLOGY ITTA's 13th AGM Chronicles the Future of Technical Textiles The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) Mumbai. Under the chairmanship of Shri. Amit recently concluded its 13th Annual General Meeting Agarwal, this AGM marked a pivotal moment for the (AGM) on September 25, 2023, at the Orchid Hotel, technical textile industry in India.
The esteemed Chief Guest, Shri. S. P. Verma, Addl. Verma encouraged investments in technical textiles Textile Commissioner & Secretary- Textile and new R&D projects under the National Technical Committee, Ministry of Textiles (MoT), Government Textile Mission (NTTM), promising full support from of India, graced the occasion and lauded the industry's the textile ministry. He also stressed the need to growth potential. He commended ITTA for its efforts s t r e a m l i n e e x p o r t p r o c e s s e s f o r g r e a t e r in fostering industry interactions and emphasized the competitiveness and highlighted opportunities for importance of research and development joint ventures and innovations in the sector. collaborations to address industry challenges. Shri.
A highlight of the event was the presentation of the significant contributions to the industry. Lifetime Achievement Award in the Technical Textile Industry to Shri. Yogesh Kusumgar, the "Father of Chairman Shri. Amit Agarwal expressed gratitude to Technical Textiles." This recognition underscores his the Ministry of Textiles for its unwavering support and 24
September-October 2023
TECHNOLOGY
outlined ITTA's role in organizing conferences and The AGM also featured a knowledge session with exhibitions under the NTTM scheme. He also noted presentations on sustainability and circular the impact of government schemes such as the economy concepts by Miklesh Goel of JB Ecotex Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Ltd. and insights into industrial yarn and Textiles, PM MITRA Scheme, and NTTM, which are nonwoven applications by Shri. Shridhar Dhumal set to stimulate industry growth. Chairman Agarwal requested an extension of the NTTM scheme for two and Shri. Sudipto Mandal from Oerlikon Textile India Pvt. Ltd. years to effectively utilize allocated funds. During the AGM, a new ITTA Board was formed, with Shri Anil Kumar Vasupillai, Additional Executive Shri. Avinash Misar as Chairman and Shri. Mahesh Director, ITTA, extended a vote of thanks, Kudav as Vice Chairman. Shri. Amit Agarwal remains reaffirming ITTA's commitment to being the an ex-member of the Board, offering continued voice of the Indian Technical Textile industry and guidance alongside Dr. Sundararaman K. S (Ex- collaborating with the government on policy Officio Member). initiatives. Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive Director of ITTA, The 13th AGM of ITTA was a testament to the highlighted key developments from the past year, including the approval of 109 research projects under industry's dedication to innovation, collaboration, the NTTM Scheme and the focus on Quality Control and sustainable growth in the dynamic field of technical textiles. Orders (QCOs). 25
WEAVING Picanol: Weaving a Legacy of Innovation and Excellence
The textile industry reverberates with the echos of it symbolizes trust, excellence, and a commitment to looms and weaving machines, but few names have offering the best in the market. stood the test of time as resoundingly as Picanol. Last week, in Ieper, Belgium, Picanol marked a significant Furthermore, Picanol's mantra of 'Sustainability page in the annals of textile history by producing its Inside, Driven by Data, Smart Performance, and 400,000th weaving machine, an impressive Intuitive Control' illustrates the company's forwardOmniPlus-i Connect airjet weaving machine. This thinking approach. Every machine they design is a accomplishment encapsulates not just the quality and confluence of these principles, ensuring that their innovation that Picanol brings to the table, but also the products remain at the forefront of the textile revolution. legacy it carries from its inception. Digital Strides with PicConnect Legacy and Lineage Tracing its roots back to 1936, Picanol was conceived In tandem with its physical products, Picanol has also from the genius of Spanish engineer Jaimé Picañol. forayed into the digital realm with PicConnect, a His design principles formed the bedrock of the very digital platform that seems poised to redefine how first Picanol weaving machine. Today's Picanol is not weaving technology interacts with data and user just a testament to its founder's vision but also to the interface, providing an even more seamless and relentless spirit of innovation and adaptation that has intuitive weaving experience. seen it introduce over 20 new generations of weaving Picanol at ITMA 2023 machines since. The world stood witness to Picanol's prowess at ITMA The OmniPlus-i Connect Airjet Weaving Machine 2023 in Milan, the paramount textile machinery fair. Destined for a customer in India, this 400,000th Here, Picanol unveiled the new Ultimax rapier machine underscores Picanol's global reach and weaving machine, further stamping its authority as a influence. The OmniPlus-i Connect stands out as an leading innovator. epitome of technological evolution, bridging the company's rich past with the dynamic needs of the In Conclusion As Picanol celebrates this monumental achievement, present-day textile industry. the global textile industry watches with bated breath. If history is any indication, Picanol will continue to set Picanol's Vision and Philosophy As Johan Verstraete, the Vice President of Weaving benchmarks, innovate, and lead the weaving Machines, elucidates, Picanol's success hinges on its technology frontier for years to come. This moment is unwavering focus on innovation, and its genuine not just a celebration of 400,000 machines but an ode partnership with its clientele. The 400,000 weaving to the countless threads of hard work, innovation, and machines they've produced is more than just a number; vision that have woven the grand tapestry of Picanol. 26
September-October 2023
TEXTURISING A profitable investment, ready for the upturn Savings now and future growth: Heberlein has the facts and figures
SlideJet-FT15-2 with new Jet insert Ape142 Recognized as the foremost provider of air interlacing 120 for a 288-position machine operating at 3 bar. and air texturing jets, Heberlein unveils its Advanced These savings, based on local electricity costs, Performance DTY interlacing jets range. The APe translated to $5 hourly savings. series jets promise substantial reductions in SlideJet-FT15-2 with new Jet insert APe142 compressed air usage, while the APh series meets the In China, where energy costs are typically lower, a most demanding criteria for knot stability. For those texturizer would save about $1 hourly. These seeking optimal profitability, Heberlein introduces c a l c u l a t i o n s , i n f l u e n c e d b y d a t a f r o m GlobalPetrolPrices.com and industry costing these innovations as appealing investments. standards, indicate that a machine equipped with APe The textile market experienced a noticeable downturn series jets could save approximately $24.3 daily. in 2022, with the annual International Textile Nevertheless, these figures should be contextualized Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) indicating a within China's manufacturing landscape, where 13% drop in draw texturing spindle shipments globally considerable state subsidization occurs. For – China contributing 86% of this figure. Heberlein's comparison, staff in China's Shanghai area earn historical data from slowdown periods such as around $800 monthly for a 48-hour week. Hence, with 2007/2008 and 2020/2021 reveals a robust recovery in the APe jets, DTY manufacturers can save roughly three-quarters of a worker's monthly salary per the DTY sector following such phases. machine. Savings every hour With Heberlein's announcement of the APe series at ITMA 2023 – which can decrease compressed air The strategic jets consumption by 15% while maintaining knot numbers This dual approach of current savings and preparing – DTY yarn manufacturers quickly saw the benefits. for market recovery positions Heberlein's new An Italian texturizer, considering replacing their P142 generation of DTY air jets as strategic investments. jet with an APe142, estimated daily savings of USD The APe jets, suitable for diverse multifilament yarns,
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TEXTURISING
SwissJet housing promise faster processing speeds, enhanced package stability requirements, ensuring unparalleled yarn construction, and fewer filament and yarn disruptions quality and consistent processes. Especially for yarns in subsequent processes. This series also appeals to produced using air covering within the 110 to 300 dtex those championing sustainability. The reduced energy range, the APh jets showcase optimum performance – consumption for equal knot performance ensures a feature evident in knitting, warp knitting, and weaving processes. sustainability without any concessions. Through advanced flow simulations, Heberlein's DTY specialists have integrated crucial insights into the Next steps design of these Advanced Performance jets. Numerous For crucial investment decisions, detailed calculations trials, both in-house and at client locations, vouch for are indispensable, and Heberlein is eager to assist the enhanced productivity and energy efficiency of prospective clients in this aspect. The company recommends preliminary discussions with their this new jet generation. specialists or direct interactions at ITMA Asia 2023 (Hall 8.1, Stand A43). A noteworthy detail for filament Pole position The textile sector undoubtedly hopes for a swift yarn producers: the new APe and APh series can be market revival. To quickly regain momentum and effortlessly integrated into existing setups like the maximize production, Heberlein's APh interlacing jets SlideJet FT15-2 and SwissJet housings, ensuring swift are perfectly positioned. They meet the strictest knot and hassle-free replacements.
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September-October 2023
SPINNING
Clear success – it takes two signals Smart Duo yarn clearing applies innovative technology for practical results Uster Quantum 4.0 presents the unique combination of both capacitive and optical sensors in one. It's the best of both worlds, for spinners. Two years after market introduction, industry feedback underlines the benefits of Uster's new cross clearing and density detection functions.
Making a choice between the two main technologies limit after the basic clearing parameters. For example, for yarn clearing is now a thing of the past. That's a thick place which might not be identified as a fault because Uster's latest Quantum 4.0 clearers offer both under the capacitive clearing limits, would be capacitive and optical sensors in a concept called rechecked under the extra optical clearing settings. Smart Duo. This innovation recognizes that each This allows the clearer to detect thick and fluffy events sensor option has its own special functionality – so that are not detected by the capacitive sensor alone. using both together brings significant advantages in Cross clearing events, designated X, are also useful to indicate spinning conditions for housekeeping and quality and profitability for spinners. maintenance purposes, such as fiber accumulation on Cross clearing roving creels or in the drafting zone. The Smart Duo approach uses 'cross clearing', in which both capacitive and optical sensors are applied. No compromises for better fabric quality The capacitive signal reacts on very compact yarn In a practical example, the benefit of cross clearing faults. It offers guaranteed detection of dense thick was proven by a spinner in India producing 100% places in the yarn, containing more fibers, as a combed cotton yarn (Ne 30) for knitted fabrics. The significant mass increase. The optical sensor records a goal was to improve fabric quality by reducing the minor diameter increase in such cases. Instead it is remaining thick places, while maintaining the same better at detecting voluminous, visually large level of clearer cuts. To ensure an independent occurrences in the yarn, where the capacitive sensor assessment of the fabric samples, an Indian textile would record only a minor increase in mass. institute was engaged for the inspection and For maximum benefit in detecting compact and fluffy comparison. events, both signals are added in series. The cross- For the tests, the cross clearing setting was kept at clearing function uses the backup of a second clearing
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SPINNING
Density detection
'medium' and the NSL setting was opened slightly to discovered that one of its ring spinning machines was compensate for the additional X-cuts. Finally, both producing high twist yarn. Some high twist yarns were articles were cleared with 92.6 cuts/100 km for the mixed with regular yarns on the winding machine, with NSL T including the X-cuts and 92.5 cuts/100 km for the result that 1.21 tons of yarn was contaminated and the NSL T without cross clearing activated. The cross rendered unusable. clearing function demonstrated improved fabric It is impossible to differentiate between yarns of different quality without the need for additional cuts. The Uster twist levels by eyesight at the ring frame stage. And until Smart Duo was able to ensure better quality without the launch of Uster Quantum 4.0 there was no way to separate yarn with different twists at the winding stage. increased production costs. Thanks to the density detection function, the spinner saved 1.08 tons of yarn that would otherwise have been Density detection waste. By installing the new generation of Uster yarn Density measurement is unique in the market, as a clearers the mill was able to rewind the yarn to separate highlight feature introduced by the Smart Duo function the high twist element. of the Quantum 4.0 clearer. Density involves two separate measurements: the density channel (D) is active Innovated for the major challenges after the splice over a defined reference length; in Quantum 4.0 is the efficient yarn quality assurance addition to this temporary density measurement, a system with Smart Clearing Technology for both continuous density (CD) measurement takes place. standard and special applications. The accepted Different densities can be caused by different twist levels standards of Yarn Body, Dense area and Smart limits are in the yarn. Other factors could be a mixture of compact further enhanced by the new Smart Duo technology. and non-compact yarn or irregularities in compacting Numerous easy-to-use functions cover basic clearing, levels, while different yarn types and materials also have Smart Duo clearing – including cross clearing and different densities. The density measurement function density detection – as well as contamination clearing and also prevents yarn issues caused by malfunctioning of the special applications. Uster's latest yarn clearing compacting device. innovations provide maximum flexibility, security and prevention for today's market challenges in spinning Saving a ton of yarn mills. In another practical example, a customer in China
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September-October 2023
TECHNOLOGY ITAMMA Advances SMART DATA Clinic with Skilling and Lean Schemes at Mumbai Event
Mr. Nimesh J. Shah President, ITAMMA, delivering the Welcome Speech At the ITME Center in Mumbai on 29th September Goswami delved into the details of this collaboration, 2023, ITAMMA made a significant move towards emphasizing skilling and vendor development. strengthening its SMART DATA Clinic. Mr. Nimesh Shah, the President of ITAMMA, opened the event Further, Mr. N D Mhatre introduced opportunities in expressing the association's commitment to providing skilling under the Government's PMKVY-4.0 scheme. comprehensive insights for the textile industry. This This initiative offers workers a chance to upskill and commitment was evident as the day unfolded with gain formal recognition for their competencies. engaging sessions from renowned industry experts. The event also celebrated innovation, with M/S MAG Lean schemes from the MSME at the central level SOLVICS PVT LTD. being acknowledged for their were introduced by Mr. Rajendra Aphale, whose revolutionary Fully Automatic Cotton Fibre Tester consultancy is a beacon for Holistic Business (HVT Genius 2). The jury praised the product for its Transformation. The networking session revealed that innovative approach and its significant contribution to a majority of ITAMMA members from Maharashtra R&D in the textile industry. are eager to implement these schemes, seeking The event concluded with a heartfelt vote of thanks by guidance from specialists in the field. Mr. Purvik Panchal, Immediate Past President of The collaboration between ITAMMA and SAMBUQ ITAMMA. Gratitude was expressed to all the aims at developing a Business Enabler Platform speakers, award winners, press members, and the India equipped with a SMART DATA Clinic. Mr. Mehul ITME Society for their generous venue contribution. 31
ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE
"Smartex FACT: The Textile Revolution in Digital Factory Management" Gone are the days when knitting factory owners had to for optimal efficiency and quality. be on-site to monitor every nuance of their production. Welcome to the era of Smartex FACT, a Comprehensive Roll Quality Checks: Review a groundbreaking digital factory management solution month's worth of production history, pinpoint defects that places your entire textile factory in the palm of using a digital roll map, and gain unparalleled clarity your hand. This revolutionary platform allows you to on the quality of your rolls. streamline operations, monitor in real-time, uphold stringent quality controls, and even automate Real-time Notifications: Stay updated on everything that matters - from machine RPM deviations to quality inspections - all accessible wherever you are. alerts, ensuring timely interventions and corrections. Imagine starting your day with a clear overview of the previous night's factory activities, even before the first Smartex's Co-founder and CEO, Gilberto Loureiro, sip of your coffee. That's the transformative change shares the vision, "Smartex FACT is more than just a Smartex FACT brings. It addresses the age-old product; it's a revolution in manufacturing and quality industry challenges of inefficiency, inconsistent control. Whether you're flagging quality quality, and reliance on manual checks, ensuring inconsistencies or detecting production hitches, with you're always a step ahead in the fiercely competitive Smartex FACT, your factory is literally at your fingertips." textile industry. Here's a deep dive into what Smartex FACT offers: As innovators in the textile sphere, Smartex continues its legacy of transforming the industry with state-ofAutomatic Roll Grading: Define your quality the-art software solutions. With Smartex FACT, we are standards and let SmartexFACT's AI-driven system not just offering a product but ushering in a new era for handle the grading of knitted rolls. Traditional textile factories, equipped with actionable data and methods see a mere 10% of rolls inspected. With advanced efficiency. The future of the knitting textile Smartex, 100% of rolls are automatically checked, industry is here, and it's digital. ensuring consistent quality. Embark on your digital transformation with Smartex Digital Factory Overview: Get a snapshot of your FACT, now available in English, Portuguese, and factory's performance - from running machines to Turkish, with more languages on the horizon. daily roll production, all in one convenient dashboard. Discover more at www.smartex.ai or reach out to sales@smartex.ai to commence your journey. Detailed Machine Analytics: Harness the power of data with insights on each machine's RPM speed, operational hours, and overall performance, allowing
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September-October 2023
TECHNOLOGY Dornbirn GFC: Pioneering Sustainable Collaborations in the Fiber World
With more than 550 participants from more than 30 countries, the Dornbirn GFC 2023 was a great success. Dornbirn GFC takes up the challenges of the textile 125 presentations on the main topics of fiber industry: i n n o v a t i o n , r e c y c l i n g , c i r c u l a r e c o n o m y, "The challenges currently facing the fiber industry sustainability, nonwovens, technical textiles, sports require fundamental changes in the value chains. We and apparel were presented to the professional see new strategic partnerships being formed to take advantage of new opportunities around innovation, audience. circular economy and new business models. nd The 62 edition of the Dornbirn GFC shows once Organizational direction and development: The successful GFC Organisation is very lean and again that it is the perfect place for such new operational lead by Friedrich Weninger as Managing partnerships", said Robert van de Kerkhof, Chief Director and operational ad well as executional driven Sustainability Officer of Lenzing AG and President of the Dornbirn GFC. Fritz Weninger, Managing Director by Sonja Spöcker. As Friedrich Weninger gave already in the past signals of the Dornbirn GFC adds, "That is why we are proud to step back from his role and responsibilities the that leading representatives from politics, the energy upcoming 2-3 years ,there was the proposal made and sector, but also from many companies and start-ups approved by all the necessary decisionmakers of the from the entire fiber value chain will come together for Austrian fiber institute to Start a recruitment process three days to exchange ideas on how to accelerate our and look for a successor to orchestrate a soft hand-over progress in greening our industry.” process the upcoming years. During the search and To discuss the challenges of the textile industry in a selection process Andreas Dorner was appointed in summer 2023 by all controversial way, to be inspired by interesting expert necessary stakeholders of the Austrian fiber institute to presentations from international speakers, and to start first as a Co- Managing Director and during the arrive at sustainable and scientifically based solutions hand over process taking over lead the next 2-3 years 33
TECHNOLOGY
rd
together in the end - this is what the Dornbirn GFC has 3 Dornbirn GFC Innovation Days: established itself as a networking platform for over "The Dornbirn GFC is a great opportunity for innovators to meet the decision makers in the fiber and decades. “For us, it is the conference of the year, where textile industry. The congress with its focus on hundreds of ideas for shaping a green future for our innovation and research offers an inspiring industry can become reality." With this statement environment for high-quality contacts." The statement Andre Wissenberg, Oerlikon, confirmed the from Bjol Frenkenberger, MIR could not be more apt. importance and task of the Dornbirn GFC in the textile The young company was one of the participants of the 3rd Dornbirn GFC Innovation Days. network. The opening morning plenary presentation by Dirk A total of 25 international innovators presented their Vantyghem, Euratex, Brussels, entitled "The EU company and innovations in a lecture in the 4th lecture Sustainable Textiles Strategy - its impact on the global hall of the Dornbirn GFC. The meeting point of the textile ecosystem" concerns another challenge for participants with the professional audience was the national and international producers and suppliers. Foyer of the Dornbirn Kulturhaus. Forward-looking The European institutions are making rapid progress in discussions took place at the respective "touchpoint" implementing the EU textile strategy in legislation. of the innovators and new contacts could be generated. European textile companies are committed to investing in sustainability, developing new circular The Innovation Days will take place again at the 63rd business models and producing high quality textile Dornbirn GFC 2024. Registration for participation products as required by the new legislation. However, will be possible within the framework of a "Call for for this to happen, companies need a clear and coherent Papers" until the end of the year. regulatory framework and a level playing field for all companies.
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September-October 2023
TECHNOLOGY
using bacterial nanocellulose (BNC) as a tree-free Paul Schlack Prize 2023 Award Ceremony: The Paul Schlack/Wilhelm Albrecht Prize 2023 was feedstock for regenerated cellulose fibers. By awarded to the following innovative dissertations: optimizing production conditions, purification Henriette Grellmann, convinced the jury with the title: methods, and dissolution/regeneration processes, the "Technological development of textilebased actuator study addresses the challenges and highlights the and sensor structures for complex deformable unique properties of BNC with the goal of promoting adaptive fiber-elastomer composites” its use as sustainable bio-based fibers in the textile industry. The dissertation deals with the development of textilebased actuator and sensor systems for adaptive fiber- Outlook into the future: elastomer composites. The Managing Director of the Austrian Fibers Institute gives an insight into the future of the Dornbirn GFC, The 2nd honorary prize was awarded to Tim "The early focus on sustainability, circular economy Höhnemann, DITF (German Institutes for Textile and and recycling made the Dornbirn GFC a very relevant Fiber Research), Denkendorf. The dissertation idea and network generator for the fiber and textile entitled: " Generation of monofilaments with defined industry. The holistic approach by integrating cross-sectional shape from polymer melt – Correlation "startups" or even "cross-industry" is now bearing of die layout, polymer morphology and process fruit. parameters with the bending behavior" was selected by the expert jury. Through cooperations and alliances the Dornbirn GFC is gaining more and more traction on a global level. The award ceremony was organized and conducted by One example is the Dornbirn GFC ASIA. Others will Mr. Frédéric van Houte, CIRFS. follow, and we see a bright future ahead. As a CEO of a major fiber manufacturer once said, "Come to Young Scientist Award powered by Lenzing AG: Dornbirn, this is the best place to learn.” A jury of experts from the fiber industry and Lenzing AG nominated the 2 winners of the Lenzing AG Young Information on the 63rd Dornbirn GFC 2024: Scientist Award from numerous applications. On the Call for Papers 2024: opening day, the prize money of € 5,000 per winner Directly after the Dornbirn GFC, preparations for the was awarded at the gala evening at Messe Dornbirn. 63rd Dornbirn GFC 2024 and the 4th Innovation Days will start. The core topic will continue to be the “Comparing Modal with Recycled Modal", is the title important area of fiber innovation. According to of the dissertation by Nina Sirén, student at Aalto experience, the interest in the topics of circular University. The study compares pre-consumer modal economy, recycling and sustainability is unbroken in with modal recycled using the Ioncell® process. It the submissions. Nonwovens and technical textiles examines production methods and estimated resource will again play a role at the Dornbirn GFC 2024. The consumption as well as mechanical properties, namely package of topics will be presented in the "Call for orientation, tensile strength, elongation and abrasion. Papers" by the end of October. Presentations can then Nina Sirén is looking for an internship as part of her be submitted, as usual, until the end of the year. studies. Date of the 63rd Dornbirn GFC 2024: Clara Davis impressed with the paper titled The congress will take place in Dornbirn at the "Advanced Overcoming Bacterial Nanocellulose for Kulturhaus from September 11 to 13, 2024. New Applications. This study explores the potential of
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TECHNOLOGY
MATEXIL Celebrates Technical Textiles Achievements with Export Awards
The Synthetic and Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) organised Export Award Function specially to felicitate its members exporting Technical Textiles at Mumbai on 12th September,2023.During the function, new name & logo MATEXIL was announced replacing the old name of the council, SRTEPC.Smt. Darshna Vikram Jardosh, Minister of State for Textiles and Railways and Chairman Shri Bhadresh Dodhia are seen with the dignitaries after name changing ceremony. The Manmade And Technical Textiles Export Promotion Council (formerly known as SRTEPC) commemorated its member's exceptional export performances in the Technical Textiles sector with a grand award ceremony on 12th September 2023 in Mumbai.
of Commerce and Industry, Textiles, Consumer Affairs, Food and Public Distribution.
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September-October 2023
Shri Bhadresh Dodhia emphasized the importance of the Technical Textiles sector, acknowledging its vital role in contemporary life. He expressed optimism about India's A total of 24 awards were distributed to companies who potential growth trajectory in the segment, foreseeing its showcased excellence in various Technical Textiles rise as a global manufacturing and export powerhouse. categories. The esteemed Minister of State for Textiles and Railways, Smt. Darshna Vikram Jardosh, was the Chief Top industry players like Reliance Industries Ltd., Arvind Guest and took the honor of presenting the awards. The Limited, Welspun Ltd., Loyal Textile Mills Ltd., Shriram event also witnessed participation from high-ranking Rayons, and Bombay Dyeing were among the illustrious officials from the Ministry of Textiles, Ministry of award recipients. Commerce and Industry, DGFT, and Customs. The event was graced by the presence of leaders and stalwarts from the Alongside the award presentation, the council also hosted a pivotal conference titled “Growing Opportunities in Technical Textiles industry. Technical Textiles”. This featured insightful panel In a significant highlight of the event, the council unveiled discussions with senior government officials and industry its new identity - MATEXIL, moving away from its original leaders sharing their expert opinions. name, SRTEPC. The Chairman of MATEXIL, Shri Bhadresh Dodhia, expressed his gratitude towards the The event was not just a celebration of past achievements Ministry of Textiles for expanding the council's role to but also set the stage for future aspirations. Through encompass Technical Textiles export promotion. He recognizing excellence and fostering insightful discussions, conveyed his earnest thanks to Hon'ble Prime Minister Shri MATEXIL has paved the way for India's prominent role in Narendra Modi and Shri Piyush Goyal, the Hon'ble Minister the global Technical Textiles export arena.