SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2020 “Naia(TM) Renew enables a circular economy for the fashion industry and helps brands meet their eco-conscious goals,” said Ruth Farrell, global marketing director of textiles for Eastman. “We’re transforming what a fabric can be and do to meet the sustainability demands of our customers and to create a world where brands and consumers can be in fashion without compromising on quality and performance.”
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It Features : TRADE
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FIBERS TECHNOLOGY TECHNICAL TEXTILES NONWOVENS COMPOSITES INNOVATION
TIMES INTERNATIONAL H.No.: 157, Satpala, Bhandra Alee, Post Agashi- 401301, Via Virar (W), Tal - Vasai, Dist - Palghar, Maharashtra, India. +91-07798189485 / 9892723562 info@timesinternational.in www.timesinternational.in
Editorial
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How spinners can improve quality consistency and get the most out of raw material
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High production rate with excellent sliver quality
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Oerlikon Neumag staple fiber technology still in demand
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Cationic-dyeable yarns have established them-selves in the market
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Innovation for sustainability and improving profitability
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New Monfortex line part of a long-term vision for Kettelhack
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New logistics center and extended testing and development facilities
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Turkish Textile Sector Will Crown Its Success in ITM 2021
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VEOCEL™ Beauty introduces finest Lyocell Skin fibers
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Innovative industrial solutions for a better world
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Trade fairs in 2021 will probably have a more national character.
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The New Benchmark In Terry Weaving
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USTER launches automated quality monitoring for nonwovens producers
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Acafintex looks to a bright future with new Monforts technology
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Rieter Wins Patent Dispute
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Reduction of anti-dumping duty
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Saurer's Autoconer MultiLink –flexible cost-effective and space-saving
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5th ITMF Corona-Survey
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Hugues Schellenberg new UCMTF President
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Promise of Sustainability a reality
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Evolution Of Indian Medical Textiles Industry As A Global Hub. Greater awareness among various stakeholders regarding the quality standards, needed to become India as a manufacturing and exporting hub of Medical textiles through training programmes “We are open to collaborate with industry and industry associations such as FICCI to bring greater awareness among various stakeholders regarding the quality standards, needed to become manufacturing and exporting hub of Medical textiles through training programmes, said Ajit Chavan, Secretary, Textile Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India” at FICCI Medical Textile webinar. Participants from medical textiles fraternity from across the country joined the webinar on ‘Can India Become Hub of Medical Textile: Healthcare and Hygiene Products’ organised by Federation of Indian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (FICCI) “India has shown a great agility to manufacture and meet the demand of PPE during COVID time. However integrating quality component and pricing with suitable regulation can make India leader in international market. Kudos to Make in India Initiative!” said Joy Chakraborty, Chief Operating Officer, P D Hinduja Hospital. Experts from the field discussed about recent upsurge of production and consumption of the medical and hygiene products, markets for future, demand supply gap, technology gap, process gap, certification and future of business. “Going forward, India needs to focus on manufacturing bio-protective coveralls, which needs to be internationally certified so that we can manufacture various levels of coverall for export and not just of level 3, currently being produced in India.” Said T Rajasekar, Director, HLL Lifecare Ltd “India can surely become a global manufacturing hub. However, we need to be strong in our own country first. Moreover, Indian manufacturers must have a moral obligation to make the correct product as people’s life is dependent on these.” said Hemant Sapra, President Global Marketing, Karam Group during the discussion. Prashant Agarwal, Jt. MD, Wazir Advisors Pvt. Ltd was of the said that India needs to go a long way to become medical textiles hub. Global opportunity is huge, which can be tapped with manufacturing commitment and zero defect approach and industry needs to be supported in mission mode approach to make it happen and grab the opportunity. According to Ashok Raman, Sr. Vice President, Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd, export of PPE mandate certified and error free product and for this we need the specialize training of manpower. So, training and testing is the key to the evolution of Indian Medical textiles industry as a global hub. When the COVID-19 outbreak started India, there was no domestic manufacture of PPE kits. Now, there is excess domestic capacity and manufacturers are getting export order requests. So, India can become global hub of medical textiles with consistent and patient efforts, said A R Bhoobalan, Vice President - Operation & Business Development, Bombay Rayon Fashion Ltd during discussion.
07798189485
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September-October 2020
SPINNING
New USTER® STATISTICS data offers competitive gains How spinners can improve quality consistency and get the most out of raw material Uster Technologies offers spinners valuable new insights into yarn quality optimization, thanks to its unique combination of expert monitoring of market trends and comprehensive statistical analysis. For example, there is evidence that fiber elongation depends more on the type of cotton than on fiber length. And not all neps are the same: there are significant gains to be made from differentiating between seed coat and fiber neps.
Caption:Immature fiber (microscopic view)
Neps (microscopic view) Both these facts offer spinners potential for competitive advantages, arising from new data categories in USTER®STATISTICS 2018. This global benchmarking tool now includes revealing information about fiber elongation, as well as seed coat and fiber neps, and USTER explains how these can be exploited to improve yarn quality consistency.
behavior of the yarn, since higher values will typically perform better in the weaving mill. For this reason, it was obviously beneficial to include fiber elongation in the latestUSTER®STATISTICS.
Analysis of USTER databases show that the correlation between fiber elongation and yarn elongation of a combed cotton ring yarn is at a level of Fiber elongation 85%. Although the twist multiplier and yarn In conjunction with fiber tenacity, fiber elongation production speed have a huge impact on yarn influences yarn elongation and the processing elongation, the basis for high yarn elongation actually 11
SPINNING comes from the fiber.The elongation of cotton fiber conclusively depends more on the type of cotton than Vital data, right instrument the fiber length. When engineering laydowns for yarn production, experts know which yarn parameters are influenced by certain fiber properties. It is possible to offset small deficiencies in one fiber property with an improvement in another. If a low fiber length might negatively affect yarn elongation and twist level, a slightly higher elongation in fiber could help.
Seed coat nep or fiber nep? Ginning mills today increasingly focus on productivity rather than quality. At the same time, gins have not been upgraded to match the increased volumes of cotton. This suggests that a more accurate evaluation of cottons is now advisable for spinning mills. This can be achieved by assessing fiber neps and seed coat nepsseparately. The distinction between these two types of nep count is now possible in USTER® STATISTICS 2018– and this allows more detailed analysis and new benefits compared with the previous data covering only the total nep count.
Established in 1957, USTER®STATISTICS are a vital source of quality data for the textile industry and are ® now newly available as an app. The value of USTER STATISTICS 2018 is acknowledged worldwide, allowing yarn producers and their trading partners to compare quality levels objectively against global market standards. Testing thousands of samples each year during past decades allows USTER unique market observations – enabling it to adapt the scope of the Statistics accordingly. For testing and analyzing the critical fiber raw material parameters for cotton spinning, the USTER® AFIS PRO 2 is the right instrument. It operates with unmatched accuracy and speed to measure fiber neps, seedcoat neps, short fiber content, fineness, maturity, trash and dust – all of which influence yarn performance in manufacturing. That’s why USTER® AFIS is the industry standard for process optimization in spinning mills – proven with more than 1,200 installations worldwide. Optimal laydown recipe
Firstly, the mill can optimize laydowns to manage a specific nep component. It can also optimize the specific nep removal efficiency. The spinner can even predict more accurately the level of white spots showing in fabrics made from the yarn after dyeing. A high level of fiber neps, with a high proportion of immature fibers, can cause these white spots. By analyzing the fiber nep level at the laydown stage, mills can adjust their processes accordingly – for example by focusing on fiber nep reduction during carding. With USTER® STATISTICS 2018, spinners are recommended to adjust card settings and compare the sliver data with the fiber nep processing chart, to benchmark the data against other mills. Combined with monitoring maturity, spinning mills can avoid or reduce white spots. If these are discovered during processing, the yarn can be redirected into a different application – such as bleached white t-shirts – where immature fiber neps are less disturbing.
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The combination of textile know-how, current statistical data and advanced technology is the basis for consistent yarn quality, despite changing conditions and new trends. David McAlister, Product Manager Fiber Lab, Uster Technologies, says: “We could consider the laydown mixes used in yarn spinning as a ‘recipe’ and fiber quality parameters as the ‘ingredients’. We would then aim to adjust the ingredients to keep consistency in the recipe. With USTER® STATISTICS 2018, we can determine the relationship of fiber properties to yarn properties and from that we can learn how to adjust the ingredients of the recipe for optimal performance. This is important for cotton, as it is not always possible to obtain the same or similar fiber qualities year-in and year-out.”
September-October 2020
SPINNING Rieter Card C 72 in India – Wider Road to Success High production rate with excellent sliver quality The Rieter card C 72 meets the need for flexibility and profitability of Indian spinning mills. It can be adapted to almost every requirement of the customer thanks to numerous options. Main benefits are consistently high sliver quality and low energy costs thanks to the combination of the 1.5-meter working width and a precise carding gap.
Rieter's proven 1.5-meter carding technology ensures a high production performance. Rieter has more than 20 years' experience in the production High quality card sliver of wider width cards. The proven 1.5-meter carding The optional Integrated Grinding System IGS classic which technology has shown its performance across the globe for is exclusive with Rieter, includes a grindstone that all kinds of applications. There are more than 1 600 Rieter automatically moves across the cylinder clothing during the cards running at Indian spinners which satisfy all needs of production. This keeps the clothing constantly sharp the Indian market. Rieter's focus is on understanding the without any human error and production loss. needs of customers across all regions and on finding the best solution for each individual spinning mill. Best raw material utilization The integrated Q-Package includes low wear mote knives in The C 72 has been designed using all essential features the pre-and post-carding zone with differing widths of without compromising on technology. This makes it a inserts that can be changed in seconds without any tools. perfect fit for emerging markets. Next to standard features of With this inserts waste can be adopted easily and the quality Rieter, e.g. the proven modular design and the automatic requirements for different types of cotton are met. sliver insertion, the card C 72 has numerous additional Attractive price-performance ratio equipment options ensuring that the precise requirements of An attractive price level and the excellent raw material the customer can be met. It is the perfect card for man-made utilization ensure economical manufacturing. fibers, cotton or blends. With the card C 72, Indian customers can benefit from Features of the C 72 that make the difference: innovative technology at an attractive price-performance High production performance and low energy consumption level. The low energy costs, the high production rate and the With 32 active flats and a 1.5-m working width, the C 72 excellent sliver quality make it the perfect choice. supports a high production performance with top quality in all yarn applications. At the same time, the C 72 has low energy consumption thanks to the combination of the large active carding area, the optimized machine geometry, and a precise carding gap. 13
MAM MADE FIBERS Oerlikon Neumag staple fiber technology still in demand
Three staple fiber bicomponent systems successfully commissioned in Asia
Oerlikon Neumag staple fiber plants stand for highest product quality and absolute reliability.
Oerlikon Neumag has successfully commissioned three staple fiber bicomponent systems in China. With capacities of 50 tons per day each, the systems are being used to manufacture core-sheath bi-component fibers made from PP/PE or PET/PE at two longstanding Oerlikon Manmade Fibers customers. These fibers are used to make hy-giene products. Despite coronavirus-related restrictions, the three new systems were installed within three and five months, all without any problems. They have meanwhile been operating under stable production conditions with optimum fiber quality of the very highest standards for several weeks now. Many years of experience in bi-component spinning Oerlikon Neumag looks back on many years of experience in constructing bicomponent staple fiber systems. The first system for this fiber type was
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commissioned as far back as 1995. Oerlikon Neumag offers solutions for the most varied cross-sections, ranging from sheath/core’, ‘side-by-side’, ‘island in the sea’, ‘orange type’ as well as ‘trilobal’. The applications are diverse: from self-crimping fibers, bonding fibers, super-microfibers all the way through to hollow fibers. The Oerlikon Neumag bicomponent technology is particularly characterized by the extremely robust spin packs that have no expensive wear parts, which considerably reduces the costs here. The reconditioning costs when cleaning the spin packs are kept to an absolute minimum. Add to this the separate temperature transfer option in the spinning beam for the two polymers. As a result, the quality and the viscosity of the polymers can be accurately adjusted in accordance with the respective process requirements.
September-October 2020
MAM MADE FIBERS Energy-efficient yarn manufacture
Cationic-dyeable yarns have established them-selves in the market The to date largest system for cationic dyeable yarns has been manufacturing in China with great success for over a year now. The installation, with a capaci-ty of 600 tons of POY filament yarn a day, instantly catapults the system operator into the van-guard of cutting-edge producers: with its high-quality products, the well-known Chinese yarn manufacturer has secured itself a 30-percent market share in China. An additive in the melt ensures easier and superior uptake of dye, meaning that this special type of yarn uses very little water during the dyeing process and hence generates less environmental pollu-tion. As a result of (chemically-) modifying the polymer, the fibers or filaments score points due to the lower temperatures required within the dyeing process, while producing consistently-brilliant dyeing results. The product is visually striking with its extremelyshiny, lively colors. Excellent processing properties –
with simultaneously extremely low energy consumption and considerably reduced CO2 emissions – ensure a high level of efficiency in the case of this sustainable product. The high capacity and the favorable production costs associated with the direct spinning process make the yarn considerably more attractive for further processing compared to production methods available to date. This opens up a new, broader application window for cationic dyeable yarns. International yarn manufacturers have been producing such yarns within the context of the POY and FDY process on machines and systems supplied by the Remscheid-based solutions provider for 30 years now.
Cationic-dyeable products stand out with their extremely-shiny, lively colors.
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AIR ENGINEERING Innovation for sustainability and improving profitability of our customers is at the core of all Atlas Copco products. Conrad Latham, General Manager – Compressor Technique, Atlas Copco India What is the business spread of Atlas Copco in A s i a i n comparison to the competitors?
At Atlas Copco we have been turning industrial ideas into business-critical benefits since 1 8 7 3 . B y listening to our customers and knowing their needs, we deliver value and innovate with the future in mind. Atlas Copco is based in Stockholm, Sweden with customers in more than 180 countries. Atlas Copco is a 147-year-old global and industrial company which is young at heart and with a highly innovative spirit. Our customers are active in a wide range of businesses in more than 182 countries. We have our own operations in 71 countries and employ 39 000 employees at year end 2019. In 2019, revenues reached 104 billion Swedish kronor/ 10 billion Euro. Closer home, we have been making in India since 1960. Our customer base is 100% business to business and our customers come from basically any industry in the world. Our strategy is to be pioneers and technology drivers. Our marketleading compressors, vacuum solutions, generators, pumps, power tools and assembly systems can be found everywhere. Be it in civil engineering, transport, food and beverages, medical, electronics, infrastructure or process industry.
optimization and assures longer power and service life for air compressors users. Intelligent and automated hybrid services combine highly efficient and innovative products in the arena of air engineering and predictive maintenance. Such features lay the foundation for Industry 4.0 in the compressed air production sector. Through industry 4.0, various functions can be automated like precision air demand analysis and regular maintenance and servicing; while allowing the user with various energy management options, as well as planning of new systems, expansion of existing ones and investment in replacement equipment. How Atlas Copco is adding 4.0 in its Product Portfolio? Atlas Copco provides customers with solutions and services which support the vision of industry 4.0 and leads the businesses towards progressive growth. Following are a few products and systems from Atlas Copco's exhaustive portfolio, that proudly displays out strength in the Industry 4.0 arena: SmartLINK system: We have more than 130,000 machines connected on our SmartLINK connectivity system globally and more than 10,000 in India, and those machines that are operational in the essential industries, we immediately switched into high data mode in times such as the one we are witnessing now. This meant that we could monitor the machines and prepare for any potential breakdowns or failures and proactively contact the customers to prevent any stoppages. We have a lot of case stories where such interventions took place and prevented plant stoppages. In a way this helped a lot of these industries remain productive.
Optimizer 4.0: The central compressed air room controller, Optimizer 4.0, is a great development in innovation, again driven by the desire to reduce customers' energy usage. This unique controller can How Air Engineering in case of Compressed centrally optimize multiple compressors and dryers of Air is enhancing 4.0? different technologies as well as different compressor Industry 4.0 brings enhanced reliability, cost- manufacturers. our Optimizer 4.0 central controller we 16
September-October 2020
AIR ENGINEERING believe that no other compressor company can offer such innovation so focused to reduce the energy bills Our team is fully geared and is in continuous touch with our customers, digitally where travel is not of our customers allowed, and is constantly supporting them by Hybrid centrifugal and oil-free compressors: From maximizing the uptime of our machines. As a a product innovation we believe our hybrid solution of proactive measure we have been communicating and centrifugal and oil-free compressors bring the lowest sharing with all our customers on the necessary energy bills to our textile customers and coupled with measures to be taken to keep using our solutions our unique MD drying technology, our AIRnet piping efficiently. solution and our Optimizer 4.0 central controller we believe we are truly the leaders in compressed air How do you see future trends in case of Air Compressors? technology. How Atlas Copco see its position in case of Textile Industry Post-COVID? Innovation for sustainability and improving profitability of our customers is at the core of all Atlas Copco products. During these difficult times when each business is looking at optimizing costs and maximizing productivity our products are already available as tested and proven across the globe and across various segments amongst which textile is one of the major ones. It is important to note that with increased fluctuation in demand and uncertainty surrounding the textile market it has become very important to minimize compressed air losses as it is one of the major utilities in textile companies. Our Variable speed drive compressors and dryers will play a major role in ensuring that customers consume only for what they want to produce and do not waste energy As a complete solution provider of compressed air needs (generation, distribution, monitoring and optimization) we are already seeing high level of interest from the textile customers in India who are eager to know more and more about the benefits of our solutions. Looking at such high level of interest in our energy savings products , unique total solution provider capability and a vast dedicated service and sales network in India to serve our customers we know that we have a very important part to play in walking shoulder to shoulder with all our customers including textile segment and deliver beyond their expectations.
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Even though the onset of the COVID situation, had affected all markets, the Textile industry being no exception, the compressed air systems sees a growth with the textile companies. The use of compressed air in the textile can be generally split into two - Air for weaving and air for spinning. Textile companies might slowly show a balance in the demand for both weaving and spinning. The types of compressors used for spinning are normally oil-injected screw type whereas weaving normally requires high quality oil-free air. The type of oil-free air compressors changes as the number of looms grow. For smaller cotton weaving customers, the best solution is oil-free screw compressors, but a large number of looms most efficiently work through turbo centrifugal compressors. A combination of turbo and screw compressors is often seen as the most energy efficient solution. Whether the application is spinning or weaving the demand of all textiles customers is to reduce their energy costs. It is not uncommon for a textile plant to spend upto 50% of their energy costs on compressed air. Working closely with our customers, Atlas Copco aims to offer every form of compressor technology and drying solutions to maximize the compressed air system for the most optimum running costs of all textile companies.
PROCESSING New Monfortex line part of a long-term vision for Kettelhack
The Monfortex sanforizing line with integrated Qualitex 800 control has now been operational at Kettelhack's plant in Rheine, Westphalia, for a number of months. KettelhackGmbH – a German leader in the dyeing and finishing of monochrome fabrics for highquality and durable workwear and bed linen – has this year retired its existing Monforts sanforizing line after 35 years of daily service, replacing it with a new one.
processes. This was aligned with a greater focus on competitive international sales.
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September-October 2020
From 1986, the company's proficiency as a specialist in solid-colour textiles led to workwear textiles becoming a bedrock of the business. Continuous investments in machinery and technical equipment The first line was installed in 1985 during a decisive have resulted in a fully integrated and rationalised single source site dedicated solely to what the time for the company. company does best – the expert dyeing and finishing of Taking the helm in the early 1980s, Jan Kettelhack – textiles. the current CEO, owner and great grandson of Heinrich Kettelhack who founded the company back Crucial process steps in 1874 – made a number of decisions that have These stages in the textile value-added chain, Jan secured its success over the following decades. Kettelhack has observed, are crucial to the quality of a final product in workwear – whether it stands the test in In 1982 Kettelhack had to vacate its existing plant in everyday use, how comfortable it is, and how many the city of Rheine due to urban development washes it can withstand. restrictions and despite a general sense of crisis in the European textile industry at that time, opted to relocate Central to this is the sanforizing process, which preand build a new highly automated plant that was not shrinks a fabric by compressing it prior to washing. reliant on mechanical and personnel-intensive This limits any residual or further shrinkage in a made-
PROCESSING up finished garment to less than 1%, to ensure perfect operational in a relatively short time. comfort and fit over an extended lifetime. “This was a very professional installation provided by “We certainly can't complain about the performance of the Monforts team with whom we have a very good the old Monfortex sanforizing line which gave us so relationship dating back many years, and everyone many uninterrupted years of service, but certain spare knew what was required from both sides,” says Mr parts for it were becoming increasingly hard to source, Pleimann. “Our operators have found the new line the control unit was becoming a little unstable and we very user friendly and we are very pleased with how couldn't risk potential interruptions to our production everything proceeded so smoothly. An unexpected schedule,” says Kettelhack plant manager Hendrik benefit is that the new line is also a lot quieter, of Pleimann. “In many ways, the new Monfortex course, which is something our operatives are sanforizer is much the same as the old one in terms of appreciating.” its mechanical reliability and robust construction, but of course today's drives are much more efficient, and Key features of the Monfortex line are the proven when it comes to the automation features and control fabric preparation, weft straightening and spreading units – and the data we can generate and analyse for units, prior to the compressive shrinkage machine with increasing efficiency – that's a whole new world.” a 750mm shrinking cylinder, and a felt calender equipped with 2,000 mm diameter drying cylinder. The line also features an integrated automatic grinding Qualitex 800 The two-metres-wide Monfortex line benefits from unit. the latest Qualitex 800 control system which allows all parameters to be easily automated via the 24-inch Customer service colour touch screen, including production speed, Kettelhack is processing primarily cotton and control of all fabric feed devices, rotation spray or polyester woven fabrics, with lyocell becoming steaming cylinder options, the width of the stretching increasingly popular in workwear for its softness and field and the rubber belt pressure. comfort. The integrated Compactomat system allows a continuous indication and control of the shrinkage values and the temperatures of the shrinking cylinder and felt calender. Up to 10,000 separate process parameter records can be generated and stored by the data manager. Full line management can be optimised via the batchspecific calculation of all process material consumption and water and electricity use, with any standstill times analysed and immediately corrected for the future. Any further assistance required is available via Monforts Teleservice, with direct connection to technicians and virtual access to machine analysis. Professional Commissioning of the new Monfortex line at Kettelhack commenced in January and it was fully
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As part of its customer service, the company stocks more than a million metres of grey fabric and at least 1.2 million metres of finished and rolled standard fabric in its warehouse at any one time, with a further 750,000 metres permanently in production. While a significant cost, this commitment ensures Kettelhack customers can be fully flexible and rely on it as a partner. “As a family-run company with around a hundred employees, Kettelhack operates very differently to bigger businesses which have to constantly consider their immediate quarterly profits,” Mr Pleimann concludes. “The thinking at Kettelhack is in terms of the next twenty years and ensuring that the business will be just as successful for the next generation as it is today. We also have a very flat organisational structure in which everyone is involved and takes an active part, which makes it a very nice place to work.”
BUSINESS NEWSLINE Retech invests in continuous innovation New logistics center and extended testing and development facilities
A newly-built logistics center and improvements to technical and testing facilities will enable Retech to enhance its continuous product development and innovation activities. The Swiss company is the world leader in technology and components for the heat treatment of synthetic fibers, and the latest investments are aimed at strengthening its position through future progress. Construction work on the new logistics center, at Retech's headquarters in Meisterschwanden, started at the end of February, shortly before the coronavirus pandemic outbreak. The building was officially opened in mid-July, allowing optimization of production workflows, assembly and quality assurance, with streamlining of both goodsinward and shipping procedures. The expansion also took in a complete renewal of the technical center and test laboratory, extending the capability
for long-term trials of new developments in area of heated godets, high-temperature applications, temperature regulation and temperature transmission systems. This is a key aspect of Retech's innovative policy, which has already seen various successful trials and tests on these systems in recent months. Further investments for this product group have already been made in the winding department for the manufacture of induction heaters. Newest-available technologies are also now in place to ensure optimized and safe production in high-temperature applications. The combination of significant investment and comprehensive optimization of facilities is evidence of Retech's commitment to long-term growth and ongoing global eminence in synthetic fiber technologies.
The Turkish Textile Sector Will Crown Its Success in ITM 2021 During the pandemic, the Turkish textile industry, which has increased its textile exports unlike many countries, will crown its success with the ITM 2021 Exhibition to be held between 22 and 26 June 2021. The Turkish textile industry made a righteous name for itself all over the world by playing a successful game during the troublesome coronavirus pandemic period. Turkey, coming to the fore especially in the field of production of masks and protective textiles, made happy textile machinery manufacturers be content through the continuation of the stability in textile machinery commerce. In this period, the Turkish textile industry, which has increased its textile exports unlike many countries, will crown its success with the ITM 2021 Exhibition to be held between 22 and 26 June 2021. 20
Turkish textile companies revitalized Turkey's economy through providing confidence in the supply chain, taking rapid actions in changing conditions, their strong infrastructure, and dynamic and skilled labor force. Many of the European textile machinery manufacturers, which had to take a break in their production processes, encountered a decrease in their number of orders and sales, while Turkey continued to both purchases and sales of the textile machinery. While the machinery manufacturers exported more than 50 percent of their products to countries all around the world, exports to Europe were 37 percent with respect to the total exports volume.
September-October 2020
NONWOVENS VEOCEL™ Beauty introduces finest Lyocell Skin fibers in the nonwoven industry and a special manufacturing system to accelerate sustainable beauty trends
Unveiled by VEOCEL™ Beauty, the new fine fiber types, LENZING™ Lyocell Fine Skin and LENZING™ Lyocell Micro Skin fibers - are exclusively made in Europe, medically tested, and certified as clean and safe Ÿ
are ideal for beauty applications, above all for facial sheet masks. An all-new special manufacturing system is also launched to add greater supply chain transparency and will allow genuine premium VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers to be identified in the final product.
Ÿ The new fibers feature Lenzing's patented Translucency technology, which allows improved New premium fiber options for sustainable beauty products product performance. The launch of the new generation of LENZING™ Ÿ A new manufacturing system has been introduced Lyocell Skin fibers represent further growth of the and will now enable premium VEOCEL™ branded VEOCEL™ Beauty brand, which supplies raw lyocell fibers to be doubtlessly identified in the final materials to products such as facial sheet masks and product, even after processing and conversion steps beauty wipes. Both LENZING™ Lyocell Fine Skin and LENZING™ Lyocell Micro Skin fibers are finer through the valuechain. than other LENZING™ branded skin fiber types, with Lenzing Group (Lenzing) today announced the LENZING™ Lyocell Micro Skin fibers being the fine introduction of the new LENZING™ Lyocell Fine stlyocell fibers in the nonwoven industry. Such feature Skin and LENZING™ Lyocell Micro Skin fibers gives consumers a more tender touch and luxurious under its specialty nonwoven ingredient brand feeling on skin, creating an exquisite sensual appeal.
VEOCEL™. These fibers, introduced under the VEOCEL™ Beauty segment, present a premium level The Skin fiber family features Lenzing's patented of fineness, exquisite softness and translucency, which Translucency technology, which allows the fibers to 21
NONWOVENS become translucent in wet state, rendering them suitable for a range of beauty products, especially delicate facial sheet masks. Facial sheet masks made using the technology will turn translucent when infused with serum, enabling consumers to pamper themselves with masks that meet their expectations for translucency, smoothness, fineness, and comfort. Currently, Lenzing is the only fiber producer that holds a patent for translucent facial sheet masks containing cellulosic fibers1, thereby setting them apart from other producers, offering a competitive advantage. Since establishment, VEOCEL™ Beauty holds a range of eco-friendly fibers, supporting the transformation of the industry to provide more sustainable products to end-consumers by offering eco-responsible, trusted and clean sources of materials. All three LENZING™ Lyocell Skin fibers, the key of ferings of VEOCEL™ Beauty, are produced exclusively in an integrated production site in Europe following stringent environmental standards. Being close to the face like a “second skin”, facial sheet masks made of exquisite VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers offer a naturally smooth and comfortable facial treatment. With hydration being a key concern of facial masks users, VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers regulate liquid absorption and release, ensuring that serum of the product is evenly distributed and keeping the product moist.
identified in the final product, even after processing and conversion steps through the value chain. The system improves supply chain transparency without affecting fiber performance or characteristics and protects manufacturers from sourcing inferior counterfeit products. End consumers can also be rest assured that the product they purchase consists of genuine premium VEOCEL™ Lyocellfibers. “We have witnessed positive changes across the beauty industry ecosystem in recent years, as consumers become more eco-conscious. They want beauty products manufactured from trustworthy ingredients and sustainable sources, using ecoresponsible processes which do not contribute to pollution. Our new fiber types and special manufacturing system under VEOCEL™ Beauty will help to further open up opportunities for brands to enhance supply chain transparency and allowing them to deliver sustainable promises to consumers,” said Jürgen Eizinger, Vice President of Global Business Management Nonwovens, LenzingAG. The launch of the new fiber type has already generated interest from industry partners, suchas Happy Mask and Watsons from Hong Kong, and Sensatia Botanicals from Indonesia. By using the new fibers in their facial sheet mask products, these brands are
showcasing their commitment to sustainability with the VEOCEL™ brand. To create aseamless shopping experience for customers, the VEOCEL™ brand also introduceda“Where To Buy” section on its website, allowing viewers to purchase VEOCEL™ branded fiber VEOCEL™ Lyocell fiber types are medically tested products directly from partners in just oneclick.
and certified with the FKT “Medically Tested – Tested for Toxins” logo2.The fiber sareal so produced with the utmost care under anenvironmentally responsible production proces stoen sure they are clean and safe.They are certified according to the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®, (Annex 6, product class I), demonstrating free from harmful ingredients and further assured the cleanliness of the fibers intended for beauty applications.
“Following last year's launch of the certification criteria, which regulates the blending of VEOCEL™ branded fibers with 100% biodegradable materials, our team has been identifying ways to drive greater change in the nonwoven industry. Now, with the launch of LENZING™ Lyocell Fine Skin and LENZING™ Lyocell Micro Skin fibers and the special manufacturing system, we do not only reduce the environmental footprint, but also redefined the standards of sustainability in beauty applications. As we reinforce VEOCEL™'s reputation as a trusted label in the nonwoven Elevate supply chain transparency and reinforce industry, we will continue to work closely with industry VEOCEL™ as a label of trust partners to implement measures that make our planet Anew special manufacturing system is now healthier,” shared Eizinger.
introduced in the Beauty segmentand will enable VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers to be doubtlessly 22
September-October 2020
TECHNOLOGY Oerlikon presented itself at the Manmade Fibers Conference in Qingdao City, China
Innovative industrial solutions for a better world
Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment CEO Georg Stausberg in an online interview with Oerlikon's China President Wang Jun at this year's Manmade Fibers Congress in Qingdao City, China
The 26th China International Manmade Fiber Conference was held this year from September 7 to 9 together with the China Chemical Fiber Technology Conference in Qingdao City. Due to the corona pandemic, no international speakers were able to be present live on site. However, Oerlikon sent more than just a greeting message to the over 400 participants at the Grand Mercure Qingdao Nanshan Resort. The management of the Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group presented itself with a hybrid, interactive talk: Wang Jun, Oerlikon's China President, on stage and the CEO Georg Stausberg, who joined in online, together convinced the congress participants of Oerlikon's performance as an innovation and technology leader even in challenging times such as the current pandemic. "Green Deal" In addition to a current review of the international market situation in the machine and plant construction for manmade fibers, Georg Stausberg also dealt very clearly with the time after the pandemic in a question and answer interview with Wang Jun. When asked about the challenges and opportunities for the future of the manmade fiber industry, he said: "As a machine
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Duan Xiaoping, Vice President of the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC) and President of the China Chemical Fibers Association (CCFA) spoke on the topic: "Technology lights up the future of the industry"
and plant manufacturer there is always one thing that will move us all forward: sustainable technologies. We all strive for innovative industrial solutions for a better world. And how can we achieve this? In Europe, we should all consistently pursue the goals of the announced 'Green Deal' of the European Union and produce climate neutrally by 2050 or even better much earlier". The CEO of the Manmade Fibers segment had the appropriate technology solutions at the ready: "Digitization with all its innovative possibilities, for example through the use of artificial intelligence, can and will help us in this process. And last but not least, automation. The interaction of automation and digital processes will ensure more sustainable Industry 4.0 production solutions for the manufacture of man-made fibers and their production machines and systems. " More sustainable production methods The combined event then brought to light numerous other innovative ideas. The Chinese speakers and the connected speakers from overseas talked about the latest developments in the field of functional textiles, biobased fibers and materials, new fields of application for textiles and of course also about their sustainable production methods.
MAN MADE FIBERS Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment:
"Trade fairs in 2021 will probably have a more national character"
Reminiscences of 'good old times' – Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment plans to fully resume trade show participation in 2021.
The trade fair calendar for the textile machinery industry is already well filled for the coming year. Almost all trade fairs, events, conferences and meetings that could not be held online in 2020 have been moved to 2021. Now they are one date after the other. But in times of the corona pandemic this has its advantages. The Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group is currently resuming its concrete planning for the coming trade fair year. "In 2021, we are seeing above all trade fairs and events that will probably have a more national or regional rather than an international character," says André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs. The accumulation of dates, especially in May and June 2021 with TECHTEXTIL in Frankfurt, Germany (May 4-7, 2021), DOMOTEX in Hanover, Germany (May 20-22, 2021), ITMA Asia, Shanghai, China (June 16-18, 2021), ACHEMA in Frankfurt, Germany (June 14-18, 2021) and ITM in Istanbul, Turkey (June 22-26, 2021) also offers the segment advantages during the corona pandemic, which will continue next year: "We can present almost all
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innovations of our product lines to a broad public in the regional markets in a short, concentrated period of time," Wissenberg explains. “DOMOTEX Asia and CINTE in Shanghai at the beginning of September proved that trade fairs and events are already possible again, at least in some countries," Wissenberg continues. "This gives us all justified hope that we will be able to stage upcoming events again next year to a certain extent. We want to offer our customers and sales staff 'real' communication platforms again", he says. In addition to the leading trade fairs in early summer 2021 and other regional fairs, the Manmade Fibers segment is also planning to participate in INDEX in Geneva, Switzerland (September 7-10, 2021) and SHANGHAITEX in China (November 23-26, 2021) as well as ITME in New Delhi, India (December 8-13, 2021). All trade fair participations of the Manmade Fibers segment are available on the Oerlikon website: https://www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers/en/aboutus/events/
September-October 2020
WEAVING The New Benchmark In Terry Weaving Picanol Introduces The Terryplus-i,
The new TerryPlus-i is an airjet machine that is based on the OmniPlus-i which was introduced at ITMA Barcelona in 2019. Therefore, it has all the benefits of this state-of-the-art airjet weaving machine. This TerryPlus-i airjet machine was developed with our four design principles in mind: smart performance, sustainability inside, driven by data, and intuitive control. This means that it guarantees the highest level of fabric quality in combination with a higher performance. "The latest terry technology makes the new TerryPlusi the most performant and versatile terry machine on the market. It doesn't matter if it is high pile, low pile, high density, low density, complex styles, or simple styles - this machine can handle any challenge. In order to realize this versatility we have developed a completely new pile formation system where the user can program any pile height between zero and twelve millimeters, regardless of whether it is plain terry, wave patterns, or any other pattern and this is done on a pick-by-pick basis," explained Johan Verstraete (VP Weaving Machines). Furthermore, thanks to the unique pile motor set-up directly driving the cloth and backrest movement simultaneously, accurate pile formation is assured at the highest speeds. The unique pneumatical pile backrest ensures optimum loop formation regardless of fabric design. The rigid yet extremely light construction ensures a highly dynamic behavior, guaranteeing perfect loop formation for even the most complicated terry designs - be it very light towels or heavy bathmats. Put simply, this is by far the best pile compensation system ever! Special attention was given to ease of use thanks to a completely new human-machine interface. The new display measures 15.6 inches and it is equipped with all of the functionalities you are familiar with from 25
your smartphone: touch, swipe, and the latest connection possibilities: ethernet, USB, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and Near Field communication (NFC – this is the technology we use when making contactless payments). The TerryPlus-i comes with two possible prewinders: the Blue 22 and the Blue 11 (the one with separate windings). Both are equipped with the easy set function which manages all settings electronically through the display. Consequently, there is no longer any need for tools or special keys to tune the prewinders. And all of this can be done without having to stop the machine, which enables you to optimize and reduce the waste length to an absolute minimum. An additional ground breaking novelty is PosiJet, which comes in a four channel version and positions each main nozzle exactly in line with the reed on insertion. This means that there is only one setting for all four nozzles and no need for a reed with a conical entrance. The result is savings in terms of both time and costs (this is because these conical reeds are quite expensive). The range of possible shedding motions - dobby and jacquard - has been completed with SmartShed for independent and individual shedding motion. SmartShed has been developed for those weavers who want to maximize digitization and flexibility in their weaving processes. The movement and the crossing of the harness frames is actuated individually for each frame by a separate motor and it is set fully electronically. This will facilitate the optimal setting whenever you are weaving a simple three pick terry or a more complex seven or nine pick terry. For more information, please download the app at www.picanol.be/app or follow us on www.picanol.be.
NONWOVENS Control of contamination, defence against defects USTER launches automated quality monitoring for nonwovens producers
Nonwovens producers are well aware of the potential threat posed by contamination in end-products. Not only does it damage user perceptions of quality, it could also prevent products from meeting important standards such as 'flushability'. In some cases, hard particles in finished goods might even result in class actions and lawsuits by consumers. USTER can protect against these risks with its new fiber cleaning system – and offers full control of contamination and defects bycombining two automated solutions for quality monitoring. Nonwovens production lines demand tough standards. Material throughout is very high, while wear and tear on machines through abrasive fibers adds extra constraints. These challenges are met by the USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD N fiber cleaning system, which was especially developed for the highoutput synthetic nonwovens industry. Thanks to itswide and deep channel, USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is designed to be installed on highproduction lines. The machine is built with the most durable materials, using stainless steel to prevent abrasion in areas which come into contact with the fibers. For the record: USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is made in Uster, Switzerland. USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is the result of surveys, close collaboration with international nonwovens companies and countless hours of field 26
tests. Installation is easy,since the fiber cleaner's slim design fits perfectly into existing lines – and it readily copes with the pace of standard production environments. For best detection results, the fiber cleaner is tuned to identify the typical disturbing contamination types in nonwovens, including colored fibers, metal or wood particles and grease deposits. Proven detection technology Though USTER®JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is brand new, it is based on well-proven technology. In fact, it's acknowledged as the leading fiber cleaning system specifically adapted to the needs of the nonwovens industry. Introduced to the market 20 years ago, there are 3,500 systems currently installed worldwide and the technology has been continuously improved. The field of experience was in spinning mills processing cotton. In that sector, contamination is a serious issue – and is even more critical for producers of fleece for the hygiene and medical applications. Some nonwovens producers rely on USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD 2, the fiber cleaning system with the most sophisticated detection technology, to guarantee zero contamination standards. The same applies in security paper printing of cotton for currency, where specialist producers place complete trust in the USTER equipment. While other technologies use conventional color cameras, the built-inspectroscopes of USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N operate on a much greater September-October 2020
NONWOVENS wavelength. This enables it to find contamination even within the 'invisible' range of infrared and ultraviolet light, even detecting contamination fragments of the same or similar shade as the fibers themselves – down to the fineness of a human hair. A further advantage is the positioning of the system. For fiber cleaning, bundle size is the key: small contaminant particles can hide inside bigger bundles, making them especially difficult to locate when the material is more compressed. USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N is ideally located in the line to overcome this, directly behind the fine opener. This ensures that the fiber bundlespass the spectroscopes in their most open state. No waste worries Initially, nonwovens producers might be wary of applying the system's outstanding contamination detection performance – the fear being that too much raw material would be wasted through contamination ejections. But that's not the case with USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N! The velocity of the fiber bundles is continuously measured. Precision valves then match the timing and duration of each ejection of contamination,so that a minimal amount of 'good' material is taken out each time, even at high production throughputs. “It is important to ensure a minimum of good fiber is lost. Trials have shown that the advanced USTER technology results in about 75% less waste comparing with other fiber cleaners – saving tons of raw material every year,” says Giacomo Frattesi, Product Manager, Uster Technologies. Extra assurance comes with the Quick Teach feature, in which USTER ® JOSSI VISION SHIELD Nautomatically 'learns' the correct color of each new raw material lot within seconds. This prevents any annoying false ejections when changing lots. Additionally, it is possible to view pictures of every ejected contaminant on the touchscreen, to verify that only the required material is removed. An unbeatable combination The nonwovens industry today faces constantly increasing quality requirements. Trends such as a greater focus on product quality by end-users are driving demands for more comprehensive control over contamination, and also over defects arising in the production process. 27
At the fiber preparation stage, USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD N ensures the best possible initial inspection and removal of contamination. Then, at the end of the production sequence, USTER® EVS FABRIQ VISION Nhandles automated detection and marking of all the main defects caused during production – and of any remaining contamination. This combined solution makes it possible today for nonwovens producers to protect quality, avoid material waste and take full advantage of the potential for process optimization. “The combination of USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD Nand USTER® EVS FABRIQ VISION Nmeans that USTER can offer a complete quality monitoring solution for the nonwovens industry,” says Frattesi.
About Uster Technologies USTER is the world's leading provider of quality management solutions from fiber to fabric. Uster Technologies offers high-technology instruments, systems and services for quality control, prediction, certification and optimization in the textile industry. This includes systems for quality management, laboratory testing and in-line process control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric inspection as well as value-added services. USTER provides the globally-acknowledged USTER®STATISTICS benchmarks for trading, textile know-how training, consulting and worldwide aftersales services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market's needs, to drive innovation forward with 'quality in mind'. Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel). www.uster.com YouTube LinkedIn Facebook
PLANT REPORT Acafintex looks to a bright future with new Monforts technology
Acafintex father and son ownership team Don Francisco and Lic Francisco Moyano at the new Monforts installation.
On the Monforts TwinAir system, the airflows above and below the fabric being dried can be regulated completely independently of each other.
At a total length of over 71 metres, the Montex finishing line that has just been installed by Monforts for Acafintex at its plant in Puebla, Mexico, is one of the highest capacity stenters the German technology leader has delivered to date. Puebla is known as the epicentre of Mexico's textile and clothing industry and is ideally placed for supplying both the USA and Europe, being three hours from the Gulf of Mexico for shipping via the Atlantic, and five hours from the Pacific coast as well.
domestic market. The country has a population of 129 million people who are becoming increasingly prosperous, with a large proportion of younger people who are spending more on clothing.
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September-October 2020
Flexible operation Founded in 1986, family-owned Acafintex operates as a commission dyehouse, finishing both knitted and woven fabrics for local companies in Mexico, in widths of between 100cm to 3.6 metres. The company is run by father and son team Don Francisco and Lic Mexico's textile and clothing industry spans the entire Francisco Moyano. production chain – from cotton growing and manmade fibre production to the manufacture of yarn, We have very flexible operations for fabric finishing fabric, finished clothing and accessories. The industry and also produce and sell our own fabrics for both the is estimated to directly employ around 640,000 fashion industry and for the uniforms market," says workers and to provide livelihoods for many more Don Francisco. "These days, we are increasingly people indirectly. The country is a key supplier of finishing materials for technical textiles and for the textiles and clothing to the USA, but has faced fierce automotive industry too. We have both local and competition from China, which has until recently been international suppliers of both yarns and base fabrics the largest supplier of textiles and clothing to the US and make sure we choose the best and most reliable sources. Exports now account for over 40% of our market. sales." However, the position of Mexico in the US import market has become more stable following the signing European contract of the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement With a width of 3.8 metres, the new Monforts Montex (USMCA), which came into force in July this year. The line at Acafintex is equipped with no less than 12 country has also been a key beneficiary of the current double TwinAir drying chambers to meet the requirements of specific technical textiles to a trade war that is raging between China and the USA. In addition, there is scope for higher sales in Mexico's European customer, in a contract secured following
PLANT REPORT the company's ISO 9001 certification in 2019. The line is equipped with an integrated heat recovery system and also benefits from an exhaust air cleaning system to ensure the most resource-efficient processing available on the market.
Modifications "From the installation to the start-up, we were supported by a team of Monforts technicians and local representative Arnulf Thaler at Sattex here in Mexico," says Lic Francisco. "Of course, every installation has its challenges and with such big machines we needed On the Monforts TwinAir system, the airflows above to modify several things inside the factory and also and below the fabric being dried can be regulated required certain modifications from Monforts which completely independently of each other, with Optiscan were all carried out successfully." Auto-Balance fully controlling the distance between the fabric and the dryer nozzles via variable-frequency Forced, like much of the textile industry globally, to fan motors and CCD chip evaluation. As a result, the temporarily suspend operations at the height of the evaporation rate of the stenter and its energy utilisation Covid-19 pandemic, Acafintex is now back to full are always fully optimised. Contact-free drying production, having installed the necessary safety eliminates the possibility of fabric marking or stitch measures for its employees, and is anticipating a bright draft. future. "We are passionate about developing new materials in Highly-intuitive Monforts Qualitex visualisation search of mutual benefit for both our clients and software allows all machine functions and process suppliers, as well as our own workforce and the parameters to be assessed and controlled easily, and environment," Don Francisco Moyano concludes. thousands of article specific settings and formulations "Investment in the latest technology like this new to be called up at any time – with 100% reproducible Monforts line plays a key role in helping us achieve our long-term goals." results. In combination with an existing Montex stenter, the new line has expanded finishing capacity at Acafintex to an annual 20 million linear metres.
Rieter Wins Patent Dispute in China Rieter protects its innovations and products with patents and registered designs. The company takes consistent action against patent and design infringements. In mid-July 2020, in a legal dispute, the Shanghai Intellectual Property Court of the Peope’s Republic of China ruled in favor of Rieter Ingolstadt GmbH (Germany).
Rieter machines stand for outstanding quality, high operational safety, excellent performance and userfriendliness as well as unique design. In order to benefit from these characteristics, competitors copy the successful Rieter machine concepts and even adopt the coveted Rieter design. Rieter protects its innovations by means of patents and registered designs. The company takes consistent action against companies that infringe Rieter patents or designs and copy products or machines. In 2018, Rieter registered design infringements by Shenyang Hongda Textile 29
Machinery Co., Ltd. in relation to double-head draw frames, and decided to file a lawsuit against the Chinese company. In mid-July 2020, the Shanghai Intellectual Property Court of the People’s Republic of China determined that the double-head draw frames JWF1316 and JWF1316T of Shenyang Hongda Textile Machinery Co., Ltd. are similar to and fall within the scope of protection of the design patent concerned. The defendant Shenyang Hongda Textile Machinery Co., Ltd. was sentenced to compensate the plaintiff Rieter Ingolstadt GmbH for financial losses and expenses.
BUSINESS NEWSLINE Reduction of anti-dumping duty on Acrylic Fibre imported from Thailand and nil duty for Dralon of EU NITMA welcomes Government’s decision of reduction of anti-dumping duty on Acrylic Fibre imported from Thailand and nil duty for Dralon of EU, it will boost our Acrylic Fibre industry’s growth Acrylic Textiles segment particularly its downstream value added segments a majority of which are in the unorganized sector have been affected due to the continued imposition of antidumping duty (ADD) on its primary raw material, that is Acrylic Fibre (AF) for the last 23 years from one source or other. Acrylic fibre is a good replacement for wool and hence sometimes called poor man’s wool, with main end use in sweaters, shawls and hand knitting yarns, engaging millions across the Country. Large number of units in the Acrylic value chain is in the downstream value added segment, mostly unorganized, which makes sweater, shawl and other value added products and consists of about 7,500 units that together employ about 10 lakhs people. This policy support will be a great support for a large numbers these MSME segments which have been suffering for long period and had been severely affected by the anti-dumping duties (ADD) on its Upon the petition filed by these 3 domestic industry, the basic raw material. DGTR after detailed investigation based on analysis on available sources of data and information based on Higher rate of ADD has increased cost of yarn which made submissions by various stakeholders and also conducting the our downstream value added Industries uncompetitive oral hearing through video conference for recording views leading to a grave situation that now we are unable to compete from the domestic industry, the user industry, importers, and not only in the exports market but even our domestic market the exporters from Thailand, The Royal Thai Government, have been suffering due large scale imports of sweaters into Ludhiana Spinners Association and its members, the NITMA India by competing countries, loosing many employment and its members has arrived at the conclusion that (a) The opportunities and livelihoods of millions in many regions in importers are likely to enter the Indian Market at dumped the Country. Sweater manufacturing is an important segment prices in the event of expiry of duty. (b) The domestic of Manmade fibre Industry, and in world sweater market industry’s performance remains vulnerable due to dumping India’s share was a negligible 0.07 billion USD as compare of the subject goods (AF) from the subject country, Thailand. that 10.3 billion USD of China and 2.5 billion USD of (c) The information on record shows likelihood of Bangladesh as per the 2018 data. This is in spite of we are c o n t i n u a t i o n o f d u m p i n g a n d l i k e l i h o o d o f having all ingredients to compete in the global market, viz. continuation/recurrence of injury to the domestic industry in the technical know-how, infrastructure for production and case the Anti-dumping duty in force is allowed to cease at this access to markets. But the main reason being uncompetitive in this growing segment is due to high raw material prices. stage. Its downstream value-added segment could unleash manifold growth in exports and employment, relieving many units from the burden of high rate of anti-dumping duty, unabated for 2 decades:- Northern Indian Textiles Mills Association (NITMA) heartily welcomes the Government’s decision to the significant reduction in the anti-dumping duty on imports of Acrylic Fibre originating in or exports from Thailand, the order for which is released by the DGTR today, on 01.09.2020. This is the outcome based on the Sunset review investigation undertaken recently on behest the application filed before the DGTR to review and for extension of the same duty which has been continued its imposition for more than 2 decades by the three domestic producer’s viz. M/s Indian Acrylic Limited, Ms Pasupati Acrylon Limited and M/s Vardhaman Acrylics Limited.
The DGTR has recommended that the continuation of the duty is required on imports of Acrylic Fibre from Thailand in view of the above conclusion. However, the Authority also recommended imposition of anti-dumping duty equal to lesser margin of dumping and the margin of injury, so as to remove the injury to the domestic industry. Accordingly, the DGTR recommended for imposing definitive antidumping duty US$ 15.87 per MT on Acrylic Fibre exported from Thailand by Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. for 5 years from the date of the Notification to be issued by the Government, i.e. 31.08.2020. This is a huge relief for the domestic user industry as the earlier duty charged was 162 US $ per MT. Further the DGTR also recommended NIL anti-dumping duty in the case of Dralon from the EU, while that for Peru US$190.38 per MT and Ukraine US$ 159.87 per MT and Belarus US$ 114.97 per MT respectively. With this reduced rate of duty the user industry can now move toward a competitive regime for AF and strengthen and expand their scale of operations for higher production and growth in the downstream.
It is to be mentioned that, when a joint delegation of industrialists from the Ludhiana Spinners Association and that of NITMA met Shri Piyush Goyal ji and requested for removal of anti-dumping duty on Acrylic Fibre, for reviving the segment, which has been continuing for more than two decades. Commerce Minister has assured that a solution for this will be purely on merit basis as it is of high importance and is affecting the downstream value added units and millions of workers. The joint delegation also received support from the Textile Ministry. They have expedited the process for resolving it by making recommendation after hearing from all concerned stake holders. The Commerce Minister was of the view that making available the raw material to the industry at competitive prices is vital for enhancing competitiveness of the industry, and it will go a long way in accomplishing the Aatmanirbhar mission and also strengthen the overall growth of Indian Textile industry in the future.
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September-October 2020
SPINNING Saurer's Autoconer MultiLink –flexible, cost-effective and space-saving The trend towards automation significantly determines investments of the textile industry, both in new installations and in the replacement sector. The Autoconer with RFID material flow technology offers various automation solutions that can be individually and intelligent adapted to customer requirements. With MultiLink, it is now possible to design the spinning mill layouts more flexible, cost-effective and space-saving.
Clearly arranged material flow between the ring-spinning machines and the Autoconer Flexible, space-saving spinning mill layouts Up to four ring-spinning machines can be linked to one Autoconer via MultiLink. This makes automation possible in situations where it was previously not economical. This applies, for example, to conditions where space is cramped or limited, typical of the replacement segment. Mill layouts for linked installations with relatively narrow spacing between the machine, e.g. already from 1.80 m distance centre to centre of the ring-spinning machines, are possible. Thanks to MultiLink, spinning mills that still work manually today can now go into economical automation. This is because assigning up to four ringspinning machines also enables a profitable link with shorter spinning machines, which is typical for the manually operated sector. MultiLink is implementable as a direct or underfloor link. Since the interface and the positioning of the machines are variable, there is a high degree of flexibility in the design of the spinning mill layout. Parallel positioning or in row – this is done optimally according to the space available in the spinning mill.
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Investment costs are reduced by up to 15% – energy costs are reduced by up to 20%, highest throughput rates with the Autoconer The flexibility and the optimal space utilisation also open up economic perspectives in the construction of new spinning mills. The maximum possible throughput rates are decisive for the design and capacity calculation of such MultiLink systems, both for the interface and the material flow. Here the Autoconer has a unique advantage: the patented optical infrared tube inspector. It allows material flow rates of up to 100 tubes per minute, so that the interface capacity can be used to the maximum. Therefore, more ring-spinning positions can be assigned to an Autoconer than to other winding machines. Overall, investment costs are reduced by up to 15%, as the costs for one-off units can be spread over more winding units. Since energy consumption, for example in suction systems or machine cleaning, only occurs once instead of 2-4 times, MultiLink saves up to 20% on energy costs compared to conventionally 1:1 linked solutions depending on the configuration.
SPINNING
Running 2:1 AutoconerMultiLink installation in India
Guaranteed quality monitoring with SPID The guaranteed and patented online quality control offers additional benefits in the Saurer solution thanks to integrated SPID (Spindle Identification System). This allows the yarn quality to be monitored at each individual ring-spinning position, even when an Autoconer is flexibly linked to up to four ring-spinning machines. Practical experience in the system and automation business With its extensive automation and system competence Saurer is the ideal engineering partner for customer specific spinning mill layouts. From pre-spinning, to roving frames, ring-spinning machines, winding machines and twisting machines, Saurer can plan and install the entire process in the best possible logistic. A 3:1 MultiLink system (Saurerring-spinning, winding and twisting machines) is currently being installed in China. The first AutoconerMultiLink installations in Indian spinning mills have been running to the full satisfaction of the customers, e.g. Sri Matha Spinning Mills Ltd. for about one year. Here 2:1 link solutions were installed, on the one hand as a direct link and on the other hand as an underfloor link. Improvements can be seen in material flow logistics, route optimisation for personnel and capacity utilisation. Shri. P. S. Velusamy, Chairman SSM group and Director Sri Matha Spinning Mills Ltd. "When we were interested in the automation of our ring/winding shed, it was not possible to realise this with a standard solution in the existing layout due to
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Shri. P. S. Velusamy, Chairman SSM group and Director Sri Matha Spinning Mills Ltd. is satisfied with the SaurerMultiLink installation
the presence of concrete pillars. Thanks to Saurer, who tried very hard to find an intelligent automatic solution for us, we decided on MultiLinkAutoconer based on their expertise. It has been working for more than a year and we are extremely satisfied with the machine's performance. We are very happy that we were able to implement the automation within the existing layout." MultiLink: summary of the Autoconer features and customer benefits Flexible design of spinning mill layouts o Link two to four ring-spinning machines with one Autoconer o Variable positioning of the Autoconer along the interfaces o Available as direct or underfloor link Economical automation o Space-saving: economical link of short ringspinning machines and for mills with limited space o Cost-saving: reduction of investment and energy costs Maximum throughput rates o Decentralised material flow with highest throughput rates o Unique optic tube inspector with up to 100 cycles/min Online quality monitoring with SPID o Integration of Spindle Identification System (SPID) to monitor the quality of each ringspinning spindle Saurer's system expertise
September-October 2020
BUSINESS NEWSLINE 5th ITMF Corona-Survey: Turnover is expected to fall by "only" -16% in 2020 Between September 5th and 25th, 2020, ITMF has conducted its 5th ITMF Corona-Survey among ITMF members and affiliated companies and associations about the impact the Corona-pandemic has on the global textile value chain. In total, 216 companies from around the world participated. When asked about the expected turnover in 2020 compared to 2019 since
the beginning of the Corona-pandemic, the companies' expectations have significantly improved since 4th survey. While in the beginning of June companies were expecting a drop in turnover of around -32%, the expected reduction fell to -16% by the middle of September (Graph 1).
Source: 1st to 5th ITMF Corona-Surveys (March 13 until September 25, 2020)
Source: 5th ITMF Corona-Survey (September 5-25, 2020)
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BUSINESS NEWSLINE Hugues Schellenberg new UCMTF President
The French Textile Equipment manufacturers' Association, well known as UCMTF, as elected a new President following the retirement of Bruno Ameline who has chaired the association since 2004. Hugues Schellenberg who has been on the board for 10 years, has been unanimously elected to succeed him. He is the CEO of Dollfus-Muller of Heimsbrunn in the French province of Alsace. An engineer, Schellenberg got an MBA from Montpellier University in Southern France. As President of UCMTF, Schellenberg will represent the French association on the board of Cematex, the owner of ITMAs. After his election, Schellenberg initiated a standing ovation to thank Bruno Ameline for his outstanding job during his 4 terms of tenure (16 years). He stated
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“it is a great honor but a stressing responsibility to become the UCMTF President in such the uncertain environment our companies have to face worldwide due to the Covid pandemic. For the long run, I am very positive thanks to our state-of-the- art equipments, our services which are up to the best standards, our teams which are so professionals and motivated but right now our business is on a bumpy road�As CEO of Dollfus-Muller, Schellenberg spends at least half of his time with customers that he visits worldwide. This is how he keeps a firsthand contact and a deep connection with the needs of the market in order to both manage his company on a day to day basis and design its long term strategy. In addition to UCMTF, Schellenberg is very active in many national, regional and national associations, including the chairmanship of a trade association to improve the employment of underprivileged workers. September-October 2020
COVER Story Eastman makes the promise of sustainability a reality with Naia™ Renew Conscious fashion fiber producer launches new traceable, transparent circular portfolio
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COVER Story
Eastman, the producer of sustainably sourced Naia™cellulosic fiber, introduces its new Naia™ Renew portfolio, sourced from 60% wood pulp and 40% recycled waste plastics*. Naia™ Renew cellulosic fiber is traceable with certified biodegradability that captures the value of hard-torecycle materials that would otherwise be destined for landfills. It can be produced at scale to deliver sustainability without compromise to the fashion world.
Fully circular, Naia™ Renew is produced with a low carbon footprint in a closed-loop process where solvents are safely recycled back into the system for reuse. The fiber is made from wood pulp sourced from certified forests, and the recycled plastics feedstock is generated via Eastman's patented carbon renewal technology (CRT). CRT is an integrated, molecular recycling technology that breaks down waste plastics, such as post-consumer carpet fiber and plastic packaging materials into basic molecular building blocks for the manufacture of new products including fibers—a truly circular solution creating value from “Naia(TM) Renew enables a circular economy for the waste. fashion industry and helps brands meet their ecoconscious goals,” said Ruth Farrell, global marketing director of textiles for Eastman. “We're transforming Naia™ is actively collaborating across the value chain what a fabric can be and do to meet the sustainability for Naia™ Renew and will have announcements demands of our customers and to create a world where regarding brand partnerships soon. brands and consumers can be in fashion without compromising on quality and performance.” "Our vision is to make sustainable fashion accessible "Naia™ Renew enables a circular economy for the for everyone," Farrell added. "We all need to play our fashion industry and helps brands meet their ecoparts to help fix the future and work together to protect conscious goals," said Ruth Farrell, global marketing our planet's precious resources for the next director of textiles for Eastman. "We're transforming generations. With Naia™ Renew, you can take an what a fabric can be and do to meet the sustainability active role in conserving resources and fostering demands of our customers and to create a world where innovation, while demonstrating a passion for brands and consumers can be in fashion without sustainability that resonates with consumers compromising on quality and performance.” worldwide.” Available as both a filament yarn and a staple fiber, Naia™ Renew offers clear advantages over other materials. Naia™ Renew filament features a silky hand, rich luster and fluid drape and is used to create fashionable womenswear garments, while Naia™ Renew staple fiber is inherently soft and quick drying, with reduced pilling properties, making it ideal for everyday casual wear.
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For more information, visit naia.eastman.com/renew. * Naia™ Renew recycled content is achieved by allocation of recycled plastics through mass balance accounting.
September-October 2020