Perfect Sourcing (Saina Media)

08. cover story OPINION LIVE

inside...

06 Will the TUFS Discontinuation Impact the Industry

FACE TO FACE 14 Packaging Becomes Simpler with Intertek

MARKET UPDATE

DOLLAR GENERAL

Enters India – Looks Forward to Explore New Product Groups and Vendors

16 MFG.com Textiles Conducts $ 2 billion Worth of Business through New Website 17

Corn Fibre Becoming a Popular Option in Textile Arena

18 US-based Foria International Looks Forward to Expand Sourcing from India

STRATEGIZE BUSINESS 22 Counter the Challenges of Fashion Logistics

INSPIRING BUSINESS MODELS 24 Ways to Go Green

BURNING ISSUE 26 Is Automation the Answer?

Labour shortage in Delhi Puts Pressure on the Textile and Apparel Sector

TECHNOLOGY UPDATE 28 FDM Computerized High Speed Sewing Machine in High Demand BRFL Places Order for 3000 Machines 30

Jay Group Creating Benchmarks in Offering High Quality and Genuine Machinery

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

20. SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS EXCITES VISTORS AT IFJAS 4 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

32 Technical Textiles Importance Growing in Home Textiles, New Finishes Introduced

34 FAIR & EVENTS 42 HOME & APPAREL NEWS

R ef lec t ion s

perfectsourcing TEAM

& publisher DEEPTI MARWAH editor

consulting editor

JEFF SANDS (US) & prod.

DESIGN X MEDIA

concept design

photographer

SHIRAZ CHAND circulation

PALAK managing director

GAGAN MARWAH

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BALANCE THE EQUATION Balance the Equation, yes this is what I am hearing these days from most of the buyers sourcing out of Asian countries, as now they do not want to depend on only one country in fact, they want to equate the sourcing in equal proportion. Recently, Team Perfect Sourcing came face to face with Dollar General India office. The group with more than 8000 stores started its India operations last year and is now exploring strength of each manufacturing hub in India. Currently, sourcing around $ 42million, the future plans are quite big.

We have been writing about pertinent issues related to the industry and one of this is the increasing labour problem.

However, as always we have talked to the industry on how to resolve it. Another important topic that came up was the withdrawal of Technology Up gradation Fund Scheme TUFs which has come as a shock to the industry. We hope that it is temporary and the scheme would be continued for the betterment of the industry.

Seeing the increasing demand from the industry to include something on testing we have this time given some inputs on how defects while during and after production process avoided. Also, you will read about some ways on how to have a smooth supply chain and avoid logistics problems.

THIS ISSUE IS DEDICATED TO MEMORIES OF MY LOVING DAD, WHO TAUGHT ME TO FACE DIFFICULT SITUATIONS STRONGLY AND NEVER LOSE HOPE.

Deepti Marwah Editor

perfectsourcing OM SAI RAM

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INFINITY ADVERTISING SERVICES (P) LTD. D-4/2, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-I, New Delhi - 110 020

JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing 5

The Expenditure Finance Committee (EFC) has decided not to issue any new sanctions under the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) till the Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs (CCEA) approves new allocations for the scheme. The circular issued by the

We are shocked to hear government’s decision to stop the TUFs that has provided a fresh lease of life to the textile industry and has helped to overcome technological obsolescence. Our buyers are insisting us to go for the bigger capacities in our factories to take the advantage of economies of scale and also the modernization with state of art technology machinery are needed on continuous basis, so as to produce quality garments. It may be noted that the exporters have shelved their proposals to go for the modernization / capacity increase since 2008, as the global recession has derailed their plan and decided to revive the plan afterwards as the TUF scheme is existing till 2012.

In the Draft, National Fibre Policy 2010-11, it has been suggested that the coverage of TUFs will result in attracting more investments and also emphasizes the need to give incentives for manmade fibre manufacturing units. As there is a good market for manmade fibre garments throughout the year in global market, the knitwear garment units have planned to manufacture them and discontinuation of scheme will affect exporters.

A.Sakthivel,

President, Tirupur Exporters Association, Tirupur

Restriction on TUFs means that the biggies will now go slow on expansion/ up-gradation as the manufacturers/ exporters used to get a level playing field through this.

textiles ministry has been dispatched to all the nodal agencies and banks concerned. All the nodal agencies and banks have been advised to freeze all new proposals -- even those which have already been submitted to them.

What impact would it have on the industry?

TUFs benefits was enjoyed by mainly the big shots as middle and small companies could not easily get through the complexities involved in the process of getting the TUFs. Of course, the decision will have its set of disadvantages as some exporters might cut down their investment on buying new machines and will curb it for sometime. The accountability, procedures and paper work involved in TUFs should be taken care of by the government. Moreover, there should be more stringent rules and penalties for those, who misuse the scheme for personal benefits.

Sanjeev Aggarwal, Anunay Enterprises, Ahmedabad

6 JULY 2010  n  perfectsourcing

Surinder Anand,

Secretary, Garment Exporters Association, Delhi

If a company intends to go for expansion it would definitely happen, however, the discontinuation of scheme would delay the decision. It is a supportive scheme and should be continued for the betterment of the industry.

Amit Narang,

STI Apparel Automation (P) Ltd., Gurgaon

The government had only extended its support and promoted the National Fibre policy, I think the TUFs should be revised for the interest of the textile and apparel community at large. It has helped the apparel exporters a lot and continuation of the scheme will be an added advantage.

OPINION LIVE

I think that the TUFs will be extended as according to the National Fibre Policy, the man made fibre producing sector will be promoted by the government. Spinning mills will be highly affected, if the government sticks to this decision. The industry is getting expensive and highly competitive and in such a situation, if the government would withdraw its support then it would be very difficult for the players to survive. Buyers are asking for reduction in prices, profit margins have already reduced and this is the time when industry needs supportive scheme and packages. TUFs is a very important scheme as it helps the players to go for technological advanced devices and remain updated like other countries, such a step would make the industry uncompetitive and affect its strength. Vietnam, Cambodia and Bangladesh already have a good infrastructure, better facilities, cutting and weaving devices and are constantly upgrading themselves, thus TUFs is very important.

We had a very slow pick-up in using the fund till 2003. After March 2007, when the TUFs was continued in the 11th plan, we couldn’t utilize much funds due to the poor performance of the industry in the last two years. Now, we have again started new projects and this scheme is very crucial for the industry.

K Selvaraju,

South India Mills Association, Seecretary General, Coimbatore

Industry will definitely be affected especially now when it is going through a tough phase.

The Chinese government is supporting its industry by offering them various facilities, exemption from taxes and duties and we expect that the Indian government should also support the industry at the moment.

China’s textile industry has grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years only because of the benefits that they get from the government. TUFs has been a good way of support by the government and it should be continued for the development of the country at large. Also, the government should look at exempting certain machines from duties for instance, machines that have inbuilt power saver have high import duties because of which, even if exporters want to buy they refrain from doing so. The government should focus at such issues also as today it is very important to put machines that save energy and are good for the environment. We appeal the government to exempt the machine from duties and also continue the TUFs

H.S. Passricha,

Founder Chairman, CISMI (Community of International Sewing Machine Industry), Delhi

Pritam Goel, MD, Lyra Industries

JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing 7

COVER STORY

DOLLAR GENERAL Enters India – Looks Forward to Explore New Product Groups and Vendors

SAVE TIME SAVE MONEY, EVERYDAY, yes this is the mantra of success at $12 billion group Dollar General, the chain that operates 8,965 stores Dollar General and is headquartered in Goodlettsville, Tennessee, a suburb of Nashville. The giant group that is adding 600 stores every year and is seeing the sales figures going up every quarter, opened its India sourcing office in Gurgaon in 2009.

The step was in line with company’s strategy to source the specialized products from different blocks of the world. Team Perfect Sourcing got some interesting inputs on company’s sourcing strategy for India and vision for the India office.

8 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

mean that they compromise on quality standards, in fact, the industry standards of AQL 2.5 are being followed. The group has nominated Bureau Veritas as the official testing company for testing and inspection of goods that are manufactured for Dollar General.

As far as the product development and designing is concerned, the company’s headquarters send the designs, colours, fabrics, etc for the upcoming season. The group is not inclined too much towards fashion and thus the range that is sourced is trendy, but basic.

Apparel is one of the important product categories and already the retailer said it is seeing some improvements, resulting from improved focus on trend shifts.

“India is a one stop solution for not a single product, but a variety of products like stationery, bed sheets, towels, pickles, hard goods, spices, jute and on the basis of these specialties India office was planned”

COVER STORY

T

he India office that started functioning last year is primarily sourcing softlines, hardline and consumable goods, which includes products like apparels, home textiles, stationary items, pickles, jute products, etc. The sourcing of all these products are done from different regions of India that specialize in manufacturing, for instance knitted t-shirts and tops from Tirupur, Coir Mats from Kerela, placemats; rugs, sheets from Karur, Panipat and Mumbai respectively. In just the first year of operation, the company did a business of USD 42 million from India and is working with over 40 vendors.

However, the figures are expected to grow substantially in the coming year. The large store format, wide range of products and addition of new stores every year indicates that the sourcing would considerably increase in the coming days.

Sarfaraz Gunwan Country Manager, Dollar General

Dollar General offers both name brand and generic merchandise — including off-brand goods and closeouts of name-brand items in the same store, often on the same shelf.

Thus, the biggest advantage of Dollar General coming to India is that the players who have capacities to deliver and passion for work would get numerous opportunities to excel. Although it has the word “dollar” in the name, Dollar General is not technically a dollar store because it has goods that are priced at more (or less) than a dollar. The product range, which is usually priced between 5 cents to 12 dollars is sourced in big volumes and can exceed 1 million pieces per style/per colour.

Even though dollar stores may seem identical to a casual passerby, each chain is a bit different and has a different strategy. Moreover, the company clarifies that even though it is a discounter and is known for affordable products does not JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing 9

COVER STORY

Group strictly looks for vendors who comply with the ethical, social and technical norms, have good infrastructure, higher productivity and efficiency levels and can deliver within 60 to 90 days Moreover, the group intends to make major changes in its soft goods presentation, home décor and is committed to drive the nonconsumable side as hard as the consumable side.

Coming on the type of vendors the group wants to get associated with, it was clarified that the basic principles of selecting vendors remain same i.e the group strictly looks for vendors who comply with the ethical, social and technical norms, have good infrastructure, higher productivity and efficiency levels and can deliver within 60 to 90 days. However, for some regular products like knitted T-shirts the delivery schedule may vary from one to two weeks. The India office is looking to add new vendors in its list these days for different product groups.

Though the volumes the company buys are huge it necessarily does not mean that only big shot companies can work with Dollar General as the group has no hesitation in working with companies at all levels that are passionate about their product, higher efficiencies and deliver the desired results. “The players who align with Dollar General have a big battle field to showcase their potential and make money as the biggest challenge is to smoothly match up with quality, price and delivery standards,” said Sarfaraz Gunwan, Country Manager, Dollar General.

Many feel that Dollar General tends to fill a void that has been created in the market as Walmart

10 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

and Target have created bigger store formats. Dollar General typically serves communities that are too small for Walmart.

Moreover, it competes in the dollar store format with national chains Family Dollar and Dollar Tree, regional chains such as Fred’s in the southeast and numerous independently owned stores. An interesting aspect about Dollar General is that most its stores are not gigantic and are build in area of 8000 square metres to 10,000 square metres and have limited range of products to display. The motto behind this is that usually in very large format stores that have a very wide range of products, consumers tend to overspend a lot of time in looking for the desired product. However, Dollar General’s philosophy is to help its customers save time and money also.

The Growth Chart of Dollar General

The India office that has a team of 21 people which includes merchandisers, accounts, and administration and operations section looks after the sourcing from Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh also. The objective is to source on the basis of strengths and specialization of a particular country, for example Pakistan is strong in basic towels and fitted sheets, India is a known player in apparels, home textiles, coir mats, pickles. However, an important question that arises is that the kind of range that Dollar General buys is basic and India is known for value addition and embellishment, so why a direct in office in India was started?

Dollar General’s first quarter performance marks a great start to the year,” said Rick Dreiling, Chairman and CEO. For the 13-week period that ended April 30, the sales increased from 11.9% to $ 3.11 billion compared to $2.78 billion in the year-ago period.

And same-store sales increased 6.7% in addition to a 13.3% increase in last year’s first quarter.

The company said customer

On this Sarfaraz said, “India is a one stop solution for not a single product, but a variety of products like stationery, bed sheets, towels, pickles, hard goods, spices, jute and on the basis of these specialties India office was planned”. Like other retailers, Dollar General Strategy is also to expand its sourcing to worldwide and reduce its dependency on only one region, especially China. In fact, this is one of the reasons that the company opened its direct office in India and is exploring new products with every passing day. CSR is an important part of the group as ever since it entered into India it is looking forward to tie up with some NGO’s or a school to offer free education to poor children.

Despite the severely challenged economy last year, Dollar Generals’ sales grew 12.8% to a record $ 11.80 billion. Moreover, in a year when most of the retailers were elated to see 2 to 3% growth Dollar General posted a 9.5% increase –on top of 9% growth the year before.

COVER STORY

traffic and average transaction amount contributed to the samestore sales gains and sales were strongest in the consumables and seasonal categories. Looking ahead, Rick Dreiling, CEO and Chairman, Dollar General said Dollar General’s “strong firstquarter results, coupled with our consistent track record, give us confidence to raise our full-year outlook for 2010.”

Dollar General, which operates 8,965 stores in 35 states; expects total sales for the 2010 fiscal year to increase from 8% to 10%, including an increase in same-store sales of 4% to 6%. Adjusted operating profit is expected to increase 18% to 22% over full year 2009 adjusted operating profit, as compared to the company’s previous guidance of 15% to 20%. The company plans to open about 600 new stores and to remodel or relocate a total of approximately 500 stores in 2010.

Why Dollar stores are at a better position as compared to the Retailers?

According to Nielson Co. research consumers at all income levels shop more at dollar stores these days, moreover, those with the high income spend 18% more YOY at Dollar outlets. Retailer’s performance is sustainable not just because of ‘the new consumerism” but because the company has created a new format it calls the customer-centric store, which it already knows will appeal to a wide range of demographics. Not only has Dollar General expanded its share of wallet among its core customers – those with household annual incomes below $ 40,000 – by 13%, but its fastest-growing customer segment is consumers with incomes above $ 70,000. “The exciting thing about our company is that it’s a magnificent mix of Dollar General veterans and new people,”said Dreiling.

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SOURCING DESTINATIONS IN INDIA DELHI, NCR:

Fashion Accessories PANIPAT, KARUR, MUMBAI:

Bed sheets, floor coverings, placemats, napkins BANGALORE:

Pickels

Kerela:

Coir Mats Tirupur:

Knitted T-shirts Moradabad:

Kitchenware and hard goods Solapur:

Towels

The group is working 12 to 18 months with suppliers, which helps them plan product flow and promotional activity and enables them to go to market in the proper way.

The essence of Dollar General’s merchandising philosophy’s lies in the intersection of value and quality that its product assortments represent. The retailer offers a combination of quality branded products and private label items.

The stores were founded in 1939

by Cal Turner in Scottsville, Kentucky as J.L. Turner & Son, Inc. In 1968, they changed the name to Dollar General Corporation.

As of the third fiscal quarter of 2007, the company was acquired

by Kohlberg Kravis Roberts & CO (KKR), a private equity firm, who took the company public in 2009.

Dreiling said in spite of this hefty push for new doors, Dollar General “is and always will be a same-store-sales story. We believe that the box has to always be productive. And the secret

of success is not going out and opening a bunch of new stores….

We are focused on all of our stores and making them all productive.”

The company has sights on higherincome households, that other half of households with incomes greater then $ 70,000 that still hasn’t shopped a dollar store.

Acquisition and Spin off On July 6, 2007 all shares of Dollar General stocks were acquired by private equity investors for $ 22.00 per share. An investment group consisting of affiliates of Kohlberg Kravis Roberts (KKR), GS Capital Partners (an affiliate of Goldman Sachs), Citigroup Private Equity and other co-investors completed an acquisition of Dollar General Corporation for a total enterprise value of $ 7.3 billion.

As a part of the transition to a privately held company, Dollar General assessed each location at the end of its lease against a model known as “EZ Stores”. This assessment included evaluating whether the location had a loading dock, garbage dumpsters, adequate parking, and acceptable profitability. Stores that did not pass this evaluation were relocated or closed. Over 400 stores were closed as part of this initiative.

In August 2009, the company announced it will file for an initial public offering, turning the company, again, into a publicly traded corporation. Although the timing of the Initial Public Offering (IPO) was not announced by Dollar General or KKR, Dollar General filed on August 20, 2009 for an initial offering of up to $ 750 million. The return of Dollar General to public ownership has been estimated to deliver up to a 30% increase in value to KKR over the two-year period it will have been private, making it a rare gem in KKR’s current portfolio.

FACE TO FACE

Packaging Gets Simpler With

Intertek Intertek which is known for offering a variety of world-class testing, quality, safety, inspection, certification and auditing services had added a new dimension to its range of services. The group has developed a well-equipped lab for testing the packaging of products especially, the hard goods that are fragile and require specifications in packaging.

Dilip Gianchandani, Regional Director, Intertek

14 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

“Whether Walmart or Ikea, today every big retailer has certain specifications for packaging, thus it was important to offer a range of services for the segment,” said Dilip Gianchandani, Regional Director, Intertek. The lab performs various types of tests like Drop test, Vibration Test, Piling, Resistance Test, Shock Proof Test, Temperature regulation test, Edge test, etc.

During the transportation a carton box goes through various types of pressures and temperature changes due to which the products get damaged. “To counter such challenges we offer our clients the option of testing the packaging boxes before they are shipped,” said Dilip. He also mentioned that a lot of wholesalers these days ask for special type of packaging in which the product can go directly to the shelf and thus it becomes even more important to check the durability of boxes. For instance, towels are placed in these movable boxes, but if the boxes do not have enough strength to withstand sudden brakes while transportation, then the towels will be dislocated and the concept of movable boxes would be of no

Production Defects

Humidity Chamber

A product is made after a long research, forecast and hard work and after that a lot of times products are rejected. If the end product goes wrong entire effort, money and time goes waste and in the era of increasing competition it is important that such defects are avoided. The given below table outlines defects that occur during the apparel manufacturing process. Some of them will impact the performance of the product, if not corrected during manufacturing and some might not. However, impact product performance can definitely affect the sale of product by creating a messy, unprofessional appearance and destroys the brand image.

DEFECT

Bursting Strength Test

use. “We have machines on which the boxes are placed and powerful brakes that push the product with force are applied, which usually happens in trucks to see whether the towel remain in stacks or are dislocated,” he added.

To check the bursting strength of boxes, a sample from the carton box is cut, the weight is exerted on it to see how much weight the box can withstand. Products are also tested in the Humidity Chamber to check how the product would react to different temperatures especially the humid conditions.

“Many products get damaged only because they absorb moisture, the machine helps in detecting at what temperature the product would lose its properties,” he added.

As products are increasingly sourced from developing countries, Intertek has expanded to provide services near manufacturing sites and buying offices, facilitating quick response to market dynamics. “We offer a comprehensive range of testing, inspection, auditing, and certification solutions to help meet increasingly stringent safety and quality standards,” he added.

EFFECT

1.

Cutting Defects Inaccurate cutting Drill and notch marks misplaced Frayed edges Improper Knife cut

- Affects garment size and/or shape - Affects garment shape or leaves exposed holes - Causes difficulty for sewing operators - Can effect size and shape

2.

Sewing Defects Damaged Needle Skipped Stitches Broken threads Seam grin

- - - -

Seam pucker Seam pleats Wrong stitch density Uneven stitch density

- - - -

Oil stains Unsecured back stitching

- -

Mismatched checks, stripes, plaids & patterns Wrong shade of thread

-

3. Assembly Defects Finished components not symmetrical Finished garment not to size Parts, components, closures omitted or damaged Lining too full or too tight Garment parts shaded Scissors or knife cuts Oil stains Thread ends not trimmed 4. Pressing Defects Burned Garments Water spots not dried Appearance not smooth 5. Packing Defects Garment not folded to specification

Required labels not present Wrong Size color, quantity packed Omitted warning on polybags

Snags or rips fabric along seam line Produces weak, unsecured seam Produces weak, unsecured seams Results from loose stitching producing unsightly appearance Affects shape and drape of garment Affects shape and hang of garment Produces weak seams Produces seams with varying strength Affects appearance Produces weak seams likely to come out Affects appearance

- Affects appearance

- Affects fit and appearance - Affects fit - Affects fit and appearance - - - - -

Affects drape and fit of garment Affects appearance Weakens cloth, causes holes Affects appearance Affects appearance

- Weakens cloth, causes holes - Affects appearance - Affects fit and drape

- Excessive wrinkles form affecting appearance - Possible regulatory violence - Causes inventory control problems - Presents safety risk to consumer

*P.S The list is not all inclusive and contains only the most commonly occurring defects, but can definitely help you in avoiding some of the defects.

JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing 15

MARKET UPDATE

MFG.com Textiles Conducts $2 Billion Worth of Business through New Website “Apparel and textiles buyers will find a sophisticated online sourcing system that speaks their language from styles to multi-line RFQ (request for quote) creation, manufacturersupplier collaboration to factory selection.”

Sanjay Shah, M.D., South Asia, MFG.com

M

FG.com the online business market place that connects suppliers, manufacturers and buyers of textile and apparel industry from all over the world announced that business worth US $ 2 bn has been conducted through its textile specific website launched in February 2008. “Over $2 billion worth of custom manufactured apparel, home and commercial textiles have been sourced through the site, with millions more available for quote every day,” confirmed Sanjay Shah, MD, South Asia.

MFG.com Textiles’ new website enables one-stop sourcing for apparel, fabrics, home and industrial textiles buyers and sourcing agents. Moreover, the website is customized to suit requirements of all size of companies in the world’s most widely used languages and more than 50 currencies of choice.

“Apparel and textiles buyers

16 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

will find a sophisticated online sourcing system that speaks their language from styles to multiline RFQ (request for quote) creation, manufacturer-supplier collaboration to factory selection,” explained Shah.

The USP of this unique business tool is that from basic products, minimum to million piece runs, buyers and brands can source from credible suppliers locally or around the globe via MFG.com Textiles. It is an online marketplace that saves time and money by instantly matching a buyer’s designs and specifications with capabilities of suppliers. The site provides factory manufacturers of both “cut and sew” and “raw materials” with direct access to global buyers with an immediate need for custom manufacturing services. Factories can specify what types of jobs they are interested in and MFG.com Textiles matches their expertise with ideal buyer opportunities. One of the users of

MFG.com, Monica Miranda, VP Merchandising, CAN Production, Los Angeles, commented, “MFG. com is a great way to get access to multiple companies and offers a steady flow of leads”.

MFG.com is the largest global sourcing marketplace for manufacturers. Its platform enables companies to intelligently connect, source, collaborate and perform with transparency and intellectual property protection.

The group created milestones with its online approach to sourcing that helped buyers to replace cumbersome, conventional sourcing options like directories and calling past suppliers. MFG. com also introduced real-time, one-to-many communications; backed by strong sourcing and collaboration business logic. “The result is streamlined sourcing, improved decision making and quality and saving of time and money for both sides of the manufacturing equation,” added Sanjay. Atlanta based MFG. com is in seven major languages, more than 50 currencies and has more than 200,000 members on five continents. The company has offices in Bangalore, Geneva, Paris, Munich and Shanghai. The group has a tie up with Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) that supports the online apparel and textiles sourcing community. “The initiative helps the members with WRAP certification to get distinguished by their web-based supplier profile and provides the online buyers with a better understanding of the quality of the factory they want to work with,” concluded Shah.

Becoming a Popular Option in Textile Arena

O

ver the last few years, due to constant innovation and R&D in the field of biotechnology a variety of low-cost and effective fabrics have been produced. To produce such fabrics, yarn and fiber manufacturers are currently experimenting with a variety of bio-based products that are derived from a natural renewable resource, are more environment friendly than synthetics and are less dependent on petroleum-based ingredients.

While soya, bamboo, silk, organic cotton have become popular names in this eco-friendly corn and pineapple fiber has emerged as a promising alternative.

How is Corn fiber derived?

Corn fiber is made using fermentation of simple plant sugar to create a range of textile products and applications.

Although, the fiber itself comes from corn starch, which generates a lactic acid (the basis for a polymer) by fermentation, it is not “natural” since there is chemical transformation. It is however considered ‘renewable’ since it does not come from a fossil product. The company that makes the corn-based plastic resins marketed under the NatureWorks PLA and Ingoe fiber brand is NatureWorks LLC, USA.

MARKET UPDATE

Corn Fibre

Corn Fibre Derived from Corn

The sugars are fermented in a process similar to making yogurt.

After fermentation products are transformed into a highperformance polymer called polylactide, which can then be spun or otherwise processed into corn fiber for use in a wide range of textile applications.

The production and use of corn fiber means less greenhouse gases are added to the atmosphere.

Compostability and chemical recyclability means that under the right conditions and with the right handling, the complete zlife cycle of production, consumption, disposal and re-use is neatly closed.

Important attributes of Corn Fiber

The fiber is man made fiber derived entirely from renewable resources.

The fiber comes entirely from corn is fully eco-compatible and has exceptional qualitative features.

The properties associated with the corn fiber are:

The process for manufacturing the polymer used to make corn fiber on an industrial scale is based on the fermentation, distillation and polymerization of a simple plant sugar, ‘maize dextrose’.

Corn is available in both spun and filament forms in a wide variety of counts from micro denier for the finest lightest fabrics to high counts for more robust applications.

It is derived from naturally occurring plant sugars. When products come to the end they can be returned to the earth, unlike petroleum based products, which can only be disposed of through thermal recycling, physical recycling or landfill.

Corn fiber balances strength and resilience with comfort, softness and drape in textiles. It does not use chemical additives or surface treatments and is naturally flame retardant.

It is reported to have outstanding moisture management properties and low odor retention, giving the wearer optimum comfort and confidence. Corn fiber filament is said to have a subtle luster and fluid drape with a natural hand offering a new material to stimulate creativity. Corn fiberfill allows outerwear garment makers to offer a complete story and a more environmentally friendly alternative to polyester and nylon combinations in padded garments. It reportedly outperforms other synthetics in resistance to UV light, retaining strength, colour and properties overtime.

JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing 17

MARKET UPDATE

US-based Foria International

Looks Forward to Expand Sourcing from India

‘‘

Investment in new technology and the allowance of foreign investment to finance the technology can change the dynamics of the Indian apparel industry,” said David Levey, Vice President, Foria International Inc, a US based designer, importer and wholesaler of men’s and ladies’ casual apparel that sells apparel under its own brands and private brands. The group currently sources 25% of its total production from India and plans to increase it further based upon the type of products its customers’ demand and request.

“We are sourcing both knits and wovens out of India, the quantities range from 480 pieces to 30,000 pieces/per style,” said David.

In India, the company is buying through agents and purchase direct from factories also. “We have a long-term relationship with agent for the Indian production center,” he averred.

The company has brands like North River Outfitter and Jeremiah and it sells private brand apparel to a variety of retailers in the department stores, sporting goods and specialty store categories. David feels that India is a strong sourcing base for the

18 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

type of items Foria designs sells i.e both basics and value-added.

However, prices are often a concern when compared to prices in Indonesia, China, Vietnam and Bangladesh. “Though price remains an issue initially, with time as the relationship builds and there is a better understanding of the requirements, the prices do come down and become more competitive,” asserted David. He also mentioned that India has to improve its productivity in order to remain competitive with other countries especially on basic items. Also, investment in new technology and the allowance of foreign investment to finance this technology would be of great assistance to the Indian apparel industry.

Besides India, Foria currently sources from China, Vietnam and Bangladesh. The company is now looking forward to diversify our sourcing and expand the business in countries out of China. “We always keep in mind our desire to establish long-term relationships with the best suppliers that meet our needs, irregardless of country of production,” concluded David.

The company’s search for potential and committed exporters is on…

Garments with similar look are sourced by the company

S

MARKET UPDATE

WAROVSKI ELEMENTS recently participated at the Indian Fashion Jewellery and Accessories (IFJAS) show that was organized by EPCH (Export promotion Council of Handicrafts) recently. The company that had an elegant stall and unique range to display attracted many visitors and international buyers. SWAROVSKI had a preview show of selected and exclusive pieces of fashion jewellery elements designed by Indian and International designers.

The show caught attention of everyone particularly for the exclusive range on display.

Rita Menon, Secretary Textiles also complemented the product range displayed at SWAROVSKI stall and made a special mention about its uniqueness at the opening ceremony of IFJAS. Exclusive fashion jewellery, semi precious jewellery, fashion accessories, hair accessories, bags and fancy shoes,

SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS EXCITES VISTORS AT IFJAS

Atelier Avatar from Philippines made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS

20 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

SEHRA by purabpaschim kalera by Punita Trrikha

belts and waistbands made from SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS was displayed at the show.

“The Indian jewellery & accessories designer creations are robust not just in their designs, but today, these designers marry them beautifully with high-quality materials, expert craftsmanship and exclusivity for International appeal,” said Sanjay Sharma, Director, SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS, Swarovski India Pvt. Ltd. He also mentioned that the aim of SWAROVSKI is to ignite the growth of this segment by providing established, talented designer platforms such as IFJAS and take it to the next level in international markets. “The show presents an opportunity to international buyers to see India’s diverse range and source products from all over India,” commented Sanjay about the show.

The designs were contributed by leading Indian designers and brands that includes Farah Khan, Gaurav Gupta, Manish Arora, Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan , Punita Trrikha, Purab Paschim by Ankit Khullar, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Shantanu Goenka, Shrivan Narresh, Tarun Tahiliani and brands like Crew Boss, Eva concepts, Excalliber, Gurshai Monsoon, Radium Creation, Silver Smith, Sri Jewellers and Sujit Bajaj. Some designer brands and creations from international arena that was on display included Bodysteel & Silver Co., Bulatti, Chelsea Taylor, Erik Halley, Ideal Bijoux S.N.C, Jimmy Crystal Otazu, Kenneth Jay Lane, Sorrelli, Tarina Tarantino and Viennois Fashion Je. SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS is the brand for all loose cut crystals manufactured by Swarovski.

Available in a myriad of colours, effects, shapes and sizes, these elements provide a fabulous palette of inspiration for designers in the worlds of fashion, jewellery, accessories and interior design.

This precious ingredient can be recognized through the “MADE WITH SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS” tag that serves as a guarantee of quality, authenticity and integrity.

Counter the Challenges

Fashion Logistics

of

W

hether it is apparels, home decor, handicrafts and accessories, these days most of the buyers are placing orders cautiously and that too close to season. The situation has put extra stress on players who regularly face problems during shipping procedures as many times the paper work along with other formalities consume a lot of precious time. Exporters are trying to manage the same by governing the internal procedures and systems, but at the same time they tend to overlook the problem systems that includes documentation, shipping, forwarding and Customs. To sustain in this competitive arena the need of the hour is to strengthen the logistics and follow some guidelines, wherein the process is less tedious and time consuming.

It is pertinent to address the issues cropping within the supply chain starting from an exporter to the buying house, Custom House Agents (CHA’s ) and Freight Forwarders (FF) and Customs and Shipping Lines. “The coordination between everybody in the supply chain needs to be strengthened so as to reduce unnecessary delays,

discounts, claims , spoilt client relations and moreover India’s brand image,” said Surabh Kalra who shared his views on the most common problem areas while shipping and also told some steps that can help avoid such circumstances.

As seen above all issues are of concern but are controllable at various stages. The miscommunication at all levels needs to be controlled so as to give a gear shift to exporters to churn more business from Importers and also wining there trust in the longer run and becoming the first choice for placement of orders.

The suggestions and solutions can be reviewed further and can be implemented as deemed fit by parties in control. Also it is recommended that the fashion institutes should implement the subject of Export-Import Documentations at all levels of there courseware so as to adequate knowledge to the young generation who shall be in job or would become young entrepreneurs in future and would already be in technical know how of the various aspects of export trade and solutions to the problems arising.

Efforts by: SAURABH KALRA, CEO, WHITE ROCK INTERNATIONAL

ISSUES / CHALLANGES

PROBLEMS / EFFECTS

l Documents not filled in EXPORTER & CHA Improper Documentation

properly and with errors

l Documents missing

by Exporter while filing.

EXPORTER

l Deficient Quality Change in Quantity after Final Inspection by External issues in Shipment Quality Controller

SOLUTION Hiring of Qualified and Efficient Documentation Personnel for this task can reduce errors.

Internal Quality Check at various intervals by the Q.A .

l Delay in Packaging EXPORTER / FREIGHT Shipment moving late FORWARDER (FF) / CUSTOM out of Factory Premises l No transport Available HOUSE AGENT (CHA)

l Cargo/Container is

booked late with Carrier

l

l Late arrival of cargo EXPORTER, FREIGHT Cut off Date of Vessel Missed FORWARDER (FF), CUSTOM HOUSE at ICD/Port AGENT (CHA) & GOVERNMENT l Delayed Stuffing and

Custom Clearance

l Improper Infrastructure

(Rail, Road, ICD’s Ports)

l Damage to cargo in

warehouse or in case

in rain.

l

l Delay in issuance of IMPORTER & EXPORTER P.O sent late by Importer

P.O because of no

decision on final qty

and final order value

l Compliance formalities

not met by Exporter

l

l Delay in issue of FREIGHT FORWARDER & Issues related to Shipping SHIPPING LINE Line Documents B/L, AWB etc

l

l Delay in Stuffing FREIGHT FORWARDER & Delay in release of SHIPPING LINE Container by Carrier of Cargo

l Damage to cargo

when stuffed in a hurry

or haste and improperly.

l

CUSTOMS Delay in Custom Clearance

of Cargo.

Delay in Handing over of cargo to Shipping Line.

l

Transport is booked well in advance not while shipment is in final strapping stage.

Advance booking of Container and Vessel

by CHA

l

Proper Coordination b/w Exporter – CHA in consideration to VSL date.

STRATAGIZE BUSINESS

PARTY TO SUPPLY CHAIN LOGISTIC

More Investment in Roadways and Cargo Train Infrastructure by the Government.

l

Use of resistant and high quality corrugated boxes

l

Importer should be apt and clear in buying decisions.

All necessary certificates should be procured by Exporter well in advance for total compliance.

l

CHA/FF should be prompt in getting necessary documents issued from shipping line.

Booking of container should be done prior to shipment leaving factory by CHA.

Correct valuation and declaration to be provided by exporter.

l

Improved EDI system with Customs and better interface.

l

l Claim to Exporter CUSTOMS & SHIPPING LINE Damage to Cargo while

stuffing and loading of for damage

container in vessel l Bad client relations

l

l Bad image to Country

l

Educating the labour for stuffing of fragile goods and essence warning stickers.

Up gradation of cranes so the containers aren’t tilted or falling.

JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing 23

INSPIRING BUSINESS MODELS

WAYS TO GO GREEN G

o Green is a tagline that we are reading or seeing almost everywhere. Warning of scientists suggests that we need to change our ways of living and manufacturing to avoid catastrophic condition of the planet.

The companies have started working on ways to reduce the carbon emission from the environment.

ETP plants, use of wind mill to produce energy, energy saving machines and motors, recycling of waste materials and decreasing usage of harmful chemicals are some of them. Every company is trying to contribute in some way or the other. Team Perfect Sourcing thus brings you some easy and affordable alternatives that can be adopted in any big, small or medium size company to reduce carbon emission, wastage of natural resources and minimum use of harmful chemicals that pollute the environment.

The tips are inspired from Natura a US-based company that was founded by father and son team, Harry and Ralph Rossdeutscher. The company was created out of a desire to create a healthier yet sophisticated lifestyle. Natura is involved in manufacturing product like mattresses, pillows, comforters in the most natural way. “By using sustainable, eco-friendly manufacturing practices and materials, Natura is truly where nature meets nature. It’s not a trend, in fact , it is a way of life,” said Ralph Rossdeutscher, CEO of the company.

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Ways Adopted By Natura to Save Environment in Everyday Life • All lights in the factory, office and outdoors have been switched out for energy efficient bulbs that require 55% less energy. All of the old bulbs were sent to a recycling plant instead of a landfill.

• Ceilings in the plant were painted white to reflect light and reduce lighting usage.

• Forklifts and tow motors are all battery operated to reduce emissions within the plant.

• All thermostats are regulated electronically to maintain even temperatures throughout the week and reduce temperatures at night and on weekends.

• All computers in the plant and offices are shut off every night.

• All lights are turned off every night and on weekends.

• All paper and cardboard in both the plant and offices are recycled.

• All plastic packaging in the plant is recycled.

• Online ordering, electronic order confirmation and electronic proofing methods were used to save paper.

• Refillable pens and pencils, non-toxic markers, natural soaps and cleaning supplies are used by the company.

• Printer cartridges are sent to a refurbishing facility where they are cleaned, refilled and resold.

• Dry erase boards, projectors and company-wide teleconferencing used to reduce single use materials in communications.

• In the Customer Service Department, a portion of the records were moved to be entirely electronic and efforts are moved to offer electronic options available to customers.

• Wood skids and excess fabrics are donated to charitable causes for reuse.

• Recycled coffee filters and reusable coffee mugs and dishes are used by employees.

BURNING ISSUE

Is

A utomation the answer?

Labour Shortage in Delhi Puts Pressure on the Textile and Apparel Sector

Despite hike in daily wages of labour in Delhi, Noida and Gurgaon there has been acute shortage of labour in these manufacturing hubs. Be it smallscale industries, micro units, engineering or the textile sector, there is a need for larger workforce as business has bounced back after a span of two years of economic slowdown. Industries are heavily dependent on migrant labour, but with many infrastructure projects coming in Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh and Bihar, migrant labour has started shifting close to their homes town.

26 JULY 2010  n  perfectsourcing

BURNING ISSUE

T

he situation is so adverse that many units have shut down their operations and many are not able to deliver products on time. “The production has gone down by more than 40% due to regular labour scarcity,” said Lalit Thukral, President, Noida Apparel Export Cluster and MD, Maharana of India, “The existing labour is overcharging and exporters are paying more than 50% extra,” he added. Many textile mill owners are even requesting the workers to stay back and at the same time are also offering them additional pay, but to no avail.

It is being reported that in a factory with 200 machines there are only 50 workers available to run the machine and the rest are remaining idle. The industry is finding it difficult to get the manpower needed for operations at the shop floor, material movement, handling the machinery and supervising. Also, many players are apprehensive of booking future orders as they are not sure whether they would be able to deliver the orders well in time or not. In Noida particularly, the problem has increased ever since wages in Delhi region increased and new units started operating which created a high demand.

Over the last few months the scarcity of labour in textile and apparel hubs like Ludhiana, Coimbatore and Surat has also increased substantially. Many industrialists confirmed that they are facing 50-60% labour shortage owing to different reasons.

Industry in Ludhiana and Tirupur is already facing infrastructure and power-related problems and now the labour shortage has added on the trouble.

As a solution to the problem Noida Apparel Export Cluster is moving to the UP government to support them in adopting nearby villages

and train female workers so that the problem can be solved. “We are encouraging exporters to adopt villages, train the village people and offer them pick and drop services so that they can be helpful in sorting out the labour problem,” added Thukral.

Some time back, similar problem was reported by Coimbatore and Surat also, on account of the forthcoming religious festivals in Andhra Pradesh, Orissa, UP and Bihar.

The workers visit their hometown once a year and usually rejoin in the second week of May, as they come back after 10 days of conclusion of their festivals. As more workers shift to the service sector, where they can earn more, the shortages are expected to intensify in the next few years.

IS AUTOMATION AN ANSWER? Labour shortage, traditional labour laws and greater dependency on labour has affected the efficiency and performance of the apparel and textile sector in India for many years. Even though, it is second largest employer after agriculture and is labour oriented, the support from government has always been a major concern. With the increasing cost of labour, the industry is now moving towards fully automatic machines. “Yes, it is happening, but it would take another 5-10 years to fully penetrate in the market. It is extremely difficult to estimate anything right now,” said Ajay Malhotra, Director, Jay Cee Enterprises. He, however, mentioned that gradually with the change in mindset and short delivery schedules would lead to an increase in demand for fully automatic machines. “There are many exporters who are moving towards fully automated machines and we are seeing the demand for it going up especially

“We are encouraging exporters to adopt villages, train the village people and offer them pick and drop services so that they can be helpful in sorting out the labour problem” Lalit Thukral, President, Noida Cluster Development

“There are already a lot of players who are using complete automatic systems as they had thought about it years back and have implemented the idea now” Ajay Malhotra, Director, Jay Cee Enterprises

in sewing and embroidery,” said Manjeet Singh Bakshi, MSB Consulting Pvt Ltd. So does that mean the transition would not be much of a problem considering there are already a lot of people using automated machines? On this Ajay said, “There are already a lot of players who are using complete automatic systems as they had thought about it years back and have implemented the idea now.” Businesses in South India are ahead in technology and understand that they are likely to save more money on automation rather than on normal machines.

The government can also support by continuing their support by offering incentives on machinery imports and schemes such as Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme(TUFs).

TECHNOLOGY UPDATE

FDM Computerized High Speed Sewing Machine in High Demand BRFL Places Order for 3000 Machines The industry is going through one of the most difficult phases as market downturn and recession has affected the apparel and textile industry severely. Under these circumstances, the manufacturers are getting even more cautious in selecting the technology, software and other business tools, and FDM one of the well-known names in sewing industry is becoming a preferred option for many established players in the apparel segment. Bangalore-based leading exporter, Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd. is currently using 2000 FDM Direct Drive Single Needle, high speed auto thread trimming machines and has placed order for another 3000 machines recently.

Maggi, CEO, FDM; M L Jain, MD, Gauge; Aman Agarwal, MD, BRFL; Zhang Min, Chairman, FDM

28 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

T

he products manufactured

by FDM are of superior quality and gives value for money,”said a satisfied Aman Agarwal, MD, Bombay Rayon Fashions Pvt. Ltd. while inspecting the FDM machines at China factory. He also mentioned that the advantage of FDM is that it helps in reducing the power consumption, labour cost and helps in enhancing the efficiency. FDM has sold over 20000 sewing machines in the major garment export hubs of India like Bangalore, Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai, Ludhiana, Jaipur, etc., within a span of seven years. Seeing the high quality of products delivered

by FDM, Gokaldas Exports also bought 5000 Single needle machines in 2007.

FDM specializes in manufacturing servo motor speed controlled by frequency, computerized auto thread trimming lockstitch sewing machines, clutch motor, auto needle position servo motors and household sewing machine motors, sewing machine stands, tables and spare parts. The company with a present output of 1,20,000 computerized single needle lockstitch sewing machine; 3,00,000 sets of clutch motor and 60,00,000 sets of household sewing machine motor, exports 90% of its production to the US, EU, Middle East and South East Asia, which marks its presence in more than 70 countries globally. The company with

The USP of FDM machines is that it controls cloth easily, creates less noise and one can see the gear box easily. “The gear box has the radiator and thus it prevents high temperature,” said Yogesh, Country Manager, FDM. The easy operation panel has a symmetrical layout, which is easy to remember and thus can be operated easily. Due to the driving power of DC, Servo brushless transmit to device directly without passing belt as a result, the power consumption reduces by 50% as compared to servo system transmitted by belt.

The FDM group that started its India operations around seven years back has established itself as a popular brand for sewing machine. The group constantly works on developing and bringing innovative products to the market and sells through a nominated distribution network, as they feel that the distributors are better placed in terms of market intelligence.

The company is working with

Comments

Mahaveer Industrial Supplier Pvt Ltd. for the Indian market.

“We ensure that the clients of the machines get 24x7 service and in case of major problems direct assistance from China is offered,” said ML Jain, Chairman, Mahaveer Industrial Supplier Pvt. Ltd., Bangalore.

FDM machines are known for their hi-end technology, effectiveness, efficiency, and cost sensitivity. Some other companies that are using FDM machines include Scotts Garments Ltd., Bangalore, Tirupur; Zodiac Clothing Company; The Shirt Company, Mumbai, Gangur Exports, Anokhi, Jaipur; Silver Crest Clothing, Bangalore; Mereena Creations, Bangalore; Texport Overseas, Bangalore and many more.

We are very keen on quality and consistency of our products, our servo technology is superior and we are happy that we proved it again with BRFL. We would continue to understand customer needs to exceed their expectations in the days to come. nML Jain, MD Mahaveer Industrial Suppliers, and President CISMI India will continue to be our major market in the days to come when it comes to servo technology. We empower companies to save energy and money. We appreciate the decision of Mr. Aman Agarwal to choose FDM and expect some more major orders like this in the future too. nZhang Min, Chairman, FDM

TECHNOLOGY UPDATE

ISO 9000, TUV, CE and UL has received recognition from many companies globally.

We are excited about this new order from BRFL. FDM Direct Drive Machines with advanced mini DC brushless servo motors gives faster ROI for the companies. FDM machines with high rate of performance to price with power saving are boon to apparel industry. nMaggi, CEO, FDM To excel in the global scenario companies look forward to adapt new technologies.

FDM Servo Technology is the need of the hour in our country as it saves energy. BRFL, the industry leader is first one to adapt the best technologies.

We are customer driven and thus the feedbacks are acted upon fast with the help of our strong R & D. nYogesh, Country Manager, FDM India

Aman Agarwal looking a at the FDM machine, ML Jain looks by

JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing 29

TECHNOLOGY UPDATE

Creating Benchmarks in Offering High Quality and Genuine Machinery Established in 1982, Bangalore- based Jay Group has always put quality as their foremost agenda and is now on the path of creating a niche for itself in the global market. Specializing in various forms of tag pins and tagging guns, Jay Group today is a benchmark in terms of quality and elegance in work.

T

he group took up the challenge of introducing “tag pins” instead of normal stickers required to hold the tag cards on to garments 25 years back, moreover, it did not hesitated in bringing about change and successfully convinced users to switch to tag pins from stickers. .

Today, the products manufactured

by Jaygroup are exported globally, especially in the European market.

“Our brand ARROW is simply a symbol of quality and the fine tag pins are yet another example of re-fined quality,” said Umaid Mohonot, CEO Marketing, Jay Group.

It has been a milestone for Jay Group to establish its presence with their products in over 42 countries. The company has a capacity to tag over 25 million garments per day. “We have designed and developed tag pins made of Special PP keeping in mind the hardships faced by cold countries. Our special PP tag pins can withstand freezing temperatures of less than minus 20 degree C” said Umaid. The high quality standards led the company in becoming the first choice for its European clients as many of the company’s premium Tag guns have acquired Patent Rights in the EU. With time the company has achieved consistent growth and has diversified its network and product range. “We have now eight manufacturing units in Bangalore,” happily cited Umaid.

30 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

To achieve high quality standards the company has adopted stateof- the- art manufacturing facility and all the products are tested and certified in accordance with the latest requirements of the European Union’s Directives, including REACH, RoHS, Azo, DMF and Phthalates.

No doubt brand is a symbol of quality and customer’s trust, however, there is one more factor, which is critical more than building a brand – protecting the brand. “Protecting a brand takes up as much time, energy and money as is required to establish it,” added Umaid. Jay Group’s products like Tag Pins, Tag Guns and Spray guns were being produced in Taiwan/China illegally, they lacked quality and were being sold with a fake ARROW brand and CE certifications on the Spray guns.

“Such an act not only surpassed our company’s statutory rights, but also, put the lives of thousands of consumers at risk- something which was unacceptable,” he asserted.

Along with its Legal department, the company has started initiating warnings, advises and legal actions against infringers, from time to time.

“Certain unscrupulous people who did not pay any heed to the warnings issued to them were later caught red handed and imprisoned thereafter,” informed Umaid. The company won a case as a result of which the Delhi High Court had put a ban on various importers, dealers and exporters from China and Taiwan guilty of

“Our brand ARROW is simply a symbol of quality and the fine tag pins are yet another example of re-fined quality.”

Umaid Mohonot, CEO Marketing, Jay Group

piracy from dealing in duplicate ARROW. “The suppliers of fake ARROW products from China & Taiwan, and their Indian counter parts- importers and dealers were made to pay a sum of Rs.5 lakhs as damage and cost,” added Umaid.

When asked about the importance of brand and brand management, Umaid said “Jay Group has always been on its toes to curb duplicators in domestic and International markets and will continue to focus on it”.

“Indeed, this is one our greatest achievement in protecting our brand and the trust that thousands of consumers have on our quality” Umaid concluded.

Technical Textiles

Importance Growing in Home Textiles, New Finishes Introduced The technical textile market is a rapidly growing market and is estimated to be worth around $100 bn currently. While initially the technical textile applications were limited to clothing industry, it is now capturing the home furnishing industry too as consumers are looking anxiously towards the increased usage of performancebased textiles. Thus, highly technical flame retardant (FR) fibres and fabrics as well as fibres like anti odour, UV resistant, anti microbial etc., are increasingly used in all areas of the home textiles industry.

32 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

3

XDRY® - Schoeller Textil USA’s trademark for multifunctional high-tech finish repels moisture on the outside and transports moisture quickly from the inside. 3XDRY® is highly breathable, less susceptible to soiling and dries very fast.

Another technology called the AEGIS EcoFresh® technology protects products against odorcausing bacteria, molds, mildew and contaminating fungus. This technology does not involve use of heavy metals and does not leach environment. The EcoFresh mark indicates that it is environmentally friendly and helps in reducing energy and water consumption.

AEGIS Microbe Shield® antimicrobial technology that has been in the market for last 30 years helps in reducing odour and microbial contamination.

The biggest advantage of the

finish is that the technology reduces the usage of harmful detergents and helps in making environment clean.

Another innovative product that can be used in apparel/home textiles products is Agiene™ which is developed and marketed by Anovotek LLC. Agiene utilizes the natural performance of silver to impart extended freshness and hygiene properties to textiles.

Silver has long been recognized as one of nature’s safest and best solutions for protection from bacterial attacks. The combination of modern science and technology has resulted in this environmentally safe, effective treatment system for textile and polymer materials.

Interestingly, coconut shells are also used for UV protection and odour management. Working on

DuPont Textile and Interiors offers DuPont Teflon fabric protector for use in home textiles. It is also in the nano-technology category and Invista is promoting its protection from hot liquids, oil and dirt.

DuPont home textile products are durable, easy to clean, UV resistant and withstand UV degradation.

Thus, they are a natural choice for automotive applications, window coverings, home textiles and virtually anywhere where the consumer wants luxury along with practicality. DuPont also has products like Allerban, an antimicrobial fibre used in pillows, mattress pads and comforters, Comforel, a polyester fibrefill for bedding, pillows, mattresses, mattress pads, blankets, Corebond topper cushioning for mattress cushioning, Dacron Polyester Fiberfill filling material for mattress filling, pillows, comforters, etc, among a range of other products.

US-based Cargill Dow is the company that pioneered the concept of Ingeo fibres. Based on polylactic acid, Ingeo is extracted from corn and has all the advantages of high-end synthetics.

This 100% natural fibre is naturally flame retardant, stain resistant and has good moisture management characteristics and is ideally suited to fabrics from fashion to furnishings (blankets, comforters, duvets, mattresses, pillows, carpets etc). Moreover, it is hypoallergenic and offers loft, resilience, warmth and excellent wicking properties and offers total comfort and performance.

Pesticide Repellent Fabric Seeing the rate of diseases caused due to use of pesticides in farm lands, the Punjab Agricultural University (PAU) scientists have developed a special pesticide repellent fabric. After successfully testing of the fabric, the researchers have now decided to market the traditional kurta-pyjama made from the fabrics, amongst the farmers.

A blend of cotton and polyester was taken as a base material, because this is the most popularly used fabric for kurta-pyjama. The conditions for application of water and an oil repellent finish on polyester-cotton blend were optimized without having significant, detrimental effect on the properties of the fabric and the fabric treated at optimized condition was used to construct a pair of kurta-pyjama. While designing these garments, care was taken to use minimum possible number of seams to check the seepage through seams. Even the thread used for sewing was treated with the finish.

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

the similar lines Cocona® Fabrics finish is available in the market. In this TrapTek’s Cocona fibers and yarns are infused with activated carbon from coconut shells which provides moisture management, odour management and UV protection. The yarns and fibers are lightweight, comfortable and retain all other product features, such as stretch and washability for the long life of product.

Nano-Tex Launched New Repellency Products Nano-Tex recently announced the launch of three new products, All Conditions, Speed Dry and Repels Water. Designed specifically for outdoor apparel (hiking, fishing, camping) All Conditions provides extremely durable resistance for rain, sleet and snow, all while maintaining breathability, air permeability and moisture vapor transfer, so the wearer stays dry and comfortable, even during physical exertion. In addition, All Conditions improves the abrasion resistance of the fabric by at least 50%, which is especially important in more rugged environments. All Conditions is also compatible with special finishes, such as localized abrasion and enzyme treatments, without degrading performance.

Speed Dry improves the drying rate of swimwear, board shorts and active wear by at least 50%, thus increasing wearer comfort by reducing chafing and wetness against the skin. Speed Dry provides permanent performance, whether used in salt water, fresh water or water with chlorine. Repels Water is used for patio furniture, awnings, and juvenile hard goods. It repels water, provides durable protection for items exposed to the harsh elements, and increases abrasion resistance, therefore keeping all of your outdoor items looking new season after season.

Oeko-Tex Updates Global Restricted Substances List The International Oeko-Tex Association has issued an updated 2010 Restricted Substances and Limit Values List (RSL) which will be used to certify textile products to the Oeko-Tex Standard 100. according to the organization, the Oeko-Tex RSL is updated at least once per year after Oeko-Tex scientists evaluate the RSL against worldwide governmental regulations such as REACh in Europe and CPSIA in the US, the latest textile processing technology, and the most current human health data.

JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing 33

FAIR & EVENTS

ITMA ASIA+CITME 2010

Receives Positive Response

T

he second ITMA ASIA + CITME 2010 exhibition that was held in China impressed both the visitors and exhibitors who came from all over the world to attend the show.

Shrugging off the effects of the economic downturn, the combined show at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC) concluded in an area of 100,000 square metre.

A total of 1,171 exhibitors from 28 countries and regions showcased a wide range of solutions to around 100,000 visitors during the fiveday exhibition. All machinery manufacturers expressed their satisfaction with the event and the feedback about their exhibits.

The visitors’ frequency as well as the quality of the visitors was considered to be good.

China had occupied the biggest display area with 639 exhibitors.

In terms of Asian participation, Taiwan was the next biggest group,with 57 exhibitors taking up over 3,500 square metres of net space. Japan, the show’s special partner country, occupied over 3,300 square metres net. Among European participants, Germany took the largest exhibition space

and occupied over 5,000 square metres, followed by Italy with more than 4,000 square metres and Switzerland with 2,500 square metres. According to an intensive survey among the exhibitors, many visitors not only from China, but also from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Indonesia and countries of the Middle East as well as from Brazil were seen.

In terms of product categories, spinning equipments occupied 17,000 square metres of net exhibit space. Dyeing, finishing and printing machinery formed the next biggest group, with over 11,700 square metres, followed by knitting at 10,300 square metres and weaving 9,300 square metres.

There was only one embroidery machine participant Richpeace at the show. As far as the Indian participation at the show was concerned it was limited, however, many exporters from India visited the show.

Exhibitors and Visitors Busy at the Fair

34 JULY 2010 n perfectsourcing

Mr Wang Shutian, President of CTMA said, “The combined show has developed into a leading platform in this part of the world for textile machinery makers to meet Chinese and other Asian buyers. Although business conditions are still challenging, we are very delighted with the response, particularly from Asian participants.”

The combined show’s unique feature was that only manufacturers of textile machinery and accessories were qualified to take part in the exhibition. Moreover, all exhibitors had to display original equipment on their stands. To ensure strict adherence to this regulation, an on-site intellectual property office was being set up to handle any intellectual property rights issues. ITMA Asia will be held in Shanghai again in June 2012 instead of ITMA Europe taking place in September 2011 in Barcelona, Spain. Furthermore, the India ITME society announced that the next India ITME will be held Dec. 2-7, 2012, at Bombay Exhibition Centre, in Mumbai, India.

FAIR & EVENTS

Dodballapur Thiru Dayanidhi Maran, Minister of textiles recently inaugurated Dodballapur Integrated Textile Park at Benguluru. The park was set up seeing the rise in demand for modernized technology and production process, the key to remain competitive in the current scenario.

“The Park will serve as a benchmark for others as establishment of modern weaving units for this Park will serve as a model for power loom sector entrepreneurs in Doddaballapur cluster, in particular and in Karnataka in general,” said Maran.

T

he Park set up in an area of 48 acres at a cost of Rs. 85 crores, will attract an investment of Rs.200 crore and annually produce textile products worth Rs. 350 crore. It would also provide employment to 4000 people. Seven units out of envisaged 84 units of weaving, sizing and warping are operational as of now. With the recovery of the economy and improvement in the investment climate, more units would also become operational.

Thiru Maran said that in August, 2005, the Government came out with the Scheme for Integrated Textile Park (SITP) to supplement the efforts of the industry by providing state of the art infrastructure facilities in textile growth centres. Forty Parks have been sanctioned throughout the country and Dodballapur is one such Park. 21 Parks, out of these 40, are operational and it is expected that the remaining parks will also commence production shortly. On completion, all these Parks are expected to have an investment of Rs. 20,000 crore and provide employment to 5 lakh people.

On the occasion, Dr.M. Veerappa Moily, Minister for Law and Justice said that there is a need for a special package to solve the problems faced by handloom and powerloom weavers from Doddaballapur.

He suggested that since the employment opportunities in the textile industry are wide, a similar Park can be set up in the North Karnataka region also. He expressed his gratitude to Thiru Maran for announcing that the Second Skill Development Centre would be set up in Chikballapur at a cost of Rs20 cr.

He said that it would train 5000 persons per annum in apparel technology.

Textile Minister Thiru Dayanidhi Maran at inauguration of textile park

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“Integrated Park gives the feeling of being in a foreign locale and similar pilot projects should be launched in different parts of the state,” said Murugesh R Nirani, Minister for Large and Medium Industries, Government of Karnataka.

The Western part of India that includes regions like Mumbai, Surat, Ahmedabad, Bhiwandi, Solapur, etc have always been important textile centres for textiles and home furnishings. Over the last few years, more than 100 processing units and 30,000 garment units have come up in and around Mumbai. Already, 1200 export oriented units are registered with AEPC and are from Gujrat and Maharastra. Seeing the potential of these areas, GARTEXMA, the Garment and Textile Machinery & Accessories Show is being organized for the first time in Mumbai. The show would be held from 10-12 October, 2010 at the Bombay Exhibition Center, Goregaon, Mumbai.

FAIR & EVENTS

GARTEXMA, a B2B Show for Apparel and Textile Machinery to be Held in Mumbai

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Mumbai is the financial capital of India, moreover, places like Bhiwandi, Tarapur and Umbergaon are just about 50-60 Km away from Mumbai, thus a show like Gartexma was planned,” reasoned Manjeet Singh Bakshi, one of the organizer of Gartexma.”

He also said that places like Vapi, Silvasa and Daman, the major hubs for garment and home textile manufacturing are just few miles away from Mumbai. .

The show is concurrently held with Heimtextil Frankfurt, Techtextil and Texworld, one of the popular fairs for home textiles, technical textiles and textiles. Another USP of the show is that the event is being supported by CISMI (Community of International Sewing Machine Industry, India), CSMA (China Sewing Machine Association) and various export councils like CMAI (Clothing Manufactures Association of India, Apparel Export Promotion Council and Texprocil. “GARTEXMA 2010 will be a great B2B platform and a unique opportunity to promote garment, home furnishing, digital, finishing equipments, CAD/CAM systems and many other related products,” added Manjeet. Manjeet is confident that the show would be a great success as it is the only machinery fair to be held in Mumbai and

Yang Xiaojing (Secretary General, Senior Economist), Deipak Doshi, Mrs. He Ye (Executive Deputy Chairman), Manjeet Singh Bakshi, Ms. Liu Min (Office Assistant of the Director Economist

plus the market is also getting back on track.

The show is expected to see a good turnaround from top executives, CEO’s, production Managers from textile and garment trade, professionals from textile, spinning, weaving, knitting and dyeing mills, garment machinery agencies, manufacturers, exporters, importers and traders from all sectors of textile, fabrics, apparel Industry, trading companies.

The show is held at Bombay Exhibition Centre which is located very near to the Mumbai airport. “There is ample space for parking at the site, centralized air

conditioning and huge space for exhibitors,” he added.

An extravagant evening would also be conducted during the show where CISMI’s Western Chapter would be opened and members from the Western Chapter would be announced.

“The aim of GARTEXMA is to offer one-stop solution to the visitors and an ideal platform for the exhibitors, who would be able to interact directly with the potential manufacturers,” concluded Manjeet.

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APPAREL & HOME NEWS

Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Institute of Textiles Management Upgraded

Priyadarshini Mill Closes garment unit

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oimbatore has always been an important centre for producing textiles and the demand for it is regularly going up. In order to meet the requirements of textiles industry, Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Institute of Textiles Management, Coimbatore has been upgraded to Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International School of Textiles and Management (SVPISTM).

An Mou was signed by Thiru Udai Singh Tolia, Registar, IGNOU and Thiru S.R. Pujar, Director, SVPISTM, in the presence of Thiru.Dayanidhi Maran, Union Textiles Minister, Tmt. Panabaaka Lakshmi, Minister of State for Textiles, Tmt. Rita Menon, Secretary (Textiles), Prof.

V.N. Rajasekharan Pillai, Vice Chancellor, IGNOU and senior officers of the Ministry. While speaking on the occasion, Maran said, “With this MOU, SVPISTM will conduct three new programmes namely, MBA in Textile Management, M.Phil and PhD as well as 3 months and 6 months courses through Distance Education Mode.” This

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The Registrar, IGNOU, Shri Udai Singh Tolia and the Director, SVPISTM, Shri S.R. Pujar exchanging the documents of signed MOU between (IGNOU) andt (SVPISTM), in the presence of Union Minister for Textiles, Shri Dayanidhi Maran and Minister of State for Textiles, Smt. Panabaka Lakshmi, and Rita Menon, Sec. Textiles

will be in addition to the new MBA in Textile Management Course to be commenced on a regular basis by the Institute from the next year.

The Institute is also looking at tie-ups with the universities in Czech Republic and Italy for programmes, such as, Faculty and Students Exchanges as well as Researchers.

Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International School of Textile Management (SVPISTM) is an autonomous, national level institutions, set up under the aegis of the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, providing comprehensive Education, Training, Consultancy and Research in Textile Management at its campus at Coimbatore, the Textile City, with state-ofthe-art ambience.

ne of the biggest mills in India, Priyadarshini Mill for spinning and yarn dyeing has called of production at its garment unit. The company took the decision in order to have a compete focus on its mill business and sold its garment unit to Marigold Landmark Estates for a total consideration of Rs. 106 million. Priyadarshini will clear all its outstanding debts taken for the garment business and invest the rest in its working capital requirements.

The textile company has a production capacity to spin 35 tons of yarn per day and yarn dyeing capacity of 10 tons per day. The company had declared a loss of Rs 78 million in the year ending March 2010.

Raymond in Trouble, Maharashtra threatens to take over a unit

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fter Raymond closed its Thane unit on the grounds that it was no longer viable to run, protests from workers was reported. The company offered a compensation of Rs 150 cr to 2500 workers, however, the workers are demanding for a double amount.

The Maharashtra government has old textile major Raymond that it may nationalize its Thane unit, if the company refuses to increase compensation to workers losing their jobs.

Maharashtra’s labour commissioner, Arvind Kumar, has cautioned that the state can take over its operations if it refuses to raise payments to workers.

It is not clear if the state government’s threats are serious.

Raymond is planning to use the land of the real estate to build premium apartments. Of the total 160 acres on which the factory stands, the company plans to use 25 acres for building a residential complex. This has upset the workers who claim they are yet to be paid compensation.

APPAREL & HOME NEWS

Ludhiana Knitwear Industry Trains Women Workers

Upcoming Fairs Apparel’s Sourcing Summit August 16, 2010 Apparel’s 4th annual Excellence in Sourcing Summit is an official program of Sourcing at MAGIC, North America’s largest apparel and fabric sourcing event. The event will be held on August 16, 2010 from 3:30-5:00 p.m., at the Las Vegas Convention Center, followed by a one-hour networking reception. Designed for sourcing executives and managers, Apparel’s Summit will feature: MAGIC Marketplace Las Vegas, NV August 17-19, 2010

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n order to solve the crunch of labour problems a project named ‘Implementing business development services for medium, small and micro enterprises (MSMEs)’ is offering help. It is also taking steps for women empowerment.

The project, which currently is in its second phase and is scheduled to get completed in the year 2011, is partly funded by the World Bank and by development agencies from Germany and Britain.

In the first training centre, opened in a village, around 50 selected girls received training on various industrial stitching machine operations.

Also, several motivational programs were organized for the trainees and their families, to encourage the girls to work in the factories.

Around 80% trainees were taken by the local knitwear units. Out of the 73 from 100 females, who were trained are already employed at a reputed firm. In the second module, females who were inexperienced and unemployed were provided due encouragement to work in factories as stitching machine operators. Therefore, overall 170 females have been trained and approximately 90% of them are employed.

Now, the next target of the project is to train more 1,000-1,500 females to hire them as stitching machine operators and to provide them training for embroidery, linking, and flat machine operations. This would prove helpful for the knitwear industry along with revamping the rural economy.

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The MAGIC Marketplace is the preeminent trade event in the international fashion industry, hosting global buyers and sellers of men’s, women’s and children’s apparel, footwear, accessories and sourcing resources. As an incubator of fashion, MAGIC is where new trends surface and develop into what will be seen on the consumer. The show’s goal is to connect and inspire the fashion community, fuse diverse trends, while offering unbeatable service to its customers.

Apparel Executive Forum Charleston, SC, October 3-5, 2010 The Apparel Executive Forum to be held on October 3-5, 2010 in Charleston, SC, is an invitation-only event that brings together approximately 100 senior-level apparel, brand and retail executives for strategic content and highly interactive peer-to-peer networking.

Apparel’s Tech Conference New York, November 10-11 Apparel’s Tech Conference will be held on November 10-11, 2010, in New York City. This two-day technology conference for qualified apparel and retail executives features two keynote presentations, up to 32 educational seminars and tabletop displays from the industry’s leading vendors. With a focus on new technology and progressive products, the event is designed to advance the competitiveness of the apparel industry.