CXIII - Issue VII

ISSUE I

CXIII

ISSUE

I

AJ

a s h l ey j on c a s VI SU A L ARTS

A

For complete photo sets of the editorials in Issue one as well as information regarding submission opportunities please visit :

www.artofashley.com

SPECIAL THANKS TO Gabriella Marina Gonzalez LovelySally Karl Leuterio Agnes-Cecile Olivia Harrison Paul Jatayna

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Kirstin Hybsch Sarena Smith Leah Wesolaski Shannon Hagerty Risa Le Pera AJ Omandac

LETTER

FROM

THE

EDITOR

With an impulsive pull towards obscure beauty and an ever wandering creative mind came the birth of CXIII. The burning desire to fuse both personal design strengths and global trailblazers of the art and fashion world became the catalyst and driving force of this publication.

Who am I? I’m your Editor in Chief and the black clad 20 year old graphic design student solely responsible for every editorial spread, layout and the overall creative direction of this magazine. I’m the lady crazy enough to take on the job of a few dozen people all at once with the greatest of ease and the highest of heels.

Spending the last five years heavily absorbed in the wondrous world of fashion drove me to create my own body of artistic and visual reference rather than merely aspire to one day land that coveted editor job that thousands hope for. Until that opportunity arises I am going full force as a camera carrying hurricane, spreading dark and unexpected beauty upon the digital publishing world. Just picture a tall dark and artsy chick running in platforms with coffee in her right hand had and a camera in the other and that’s the CXIII solo dream team. As for the name goes, you will just have to wait until Issue two to get the whole spiel.

Issue one has a dominant presence of cutting edge accessory designers, global personal style, art, and a dash of editorial. My hope was to showcase both asthetically stunning and unnexpected pieces from across this spacious and talent ridden planet.

With love from the east coast of the U S of A,

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Ashley J

CONTENTS

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14 62

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8 GABRIELLA MARINA GONZALEZ

38 CHAIN REACTION

14 OLIVIA HARRISON

52 DOUBLE TAKE

20 PARADIGM SHIFT

58 OS ACCESSORIES

26 TOXIC CITY SLICKER

62 LUCID BEAUTY

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26 78 SMOKE AND MIRRORS 80 LOVELYSALLY 86 NEON NOUVEAU 104 AGNES-CECILE

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Unconventional

ALLURE

The uncommon and captivating creative approach of Gabriella Marina Gonzalez has distinguished her as quite the fashion powerhouse. The portrayal of strength and emotion packed beautifully into each of her hand crafted pieces leaves us all craving more. The London based designer was kind enough to give insight on her collections and creative process.

“

We like

to put things in boxes in order to understand our place among them.”

-Gabriella Marina Gonzalez

Tell us a little bit about your work; what are the concepts of your designs, what do you want to express and convey?

My work is a materialization of what I am exploring or experiencing at the time. A tangible version of a thought process I cant explain in words.

After a first look at your shoe collections, especially your wedges, immediately arises the thought ‘the higher the better’. What do they really stand for? Is wear ability for you important in general, in relation to your designs?

Form and function, I want to have my cake and eat it too.

Since when has fashion been a part of your life and what is the reason you decided to start your way in this industry? Did you ever try any alternatives?

You know, I’m not sure if I even am a fashion designer? I make these things because the process is the only way I know how to find release, and satisfaction.

I just happen to use the body as a basis to create my work off of. I suppose I am a stray as I share no connection or understanding with the basic ideal of what fashion design seems to stand for. I don’t want to be this person who creates luxury goods in an economy that can barely afford to live day to day. I don’t want to create in volume. I don’t want to fuel this need to want, it’s a disease. I am very well aware that this attitude is detrimental to my career. I am also not snobbish toward either the mainstream or the eccentric and am grateful toward anyone who finds a spark in my work. As long as that spark isn’t created from a passing fad. I guess this is the alternative.

It’s visible that leather and strikingly rough knitwear are continuously playing a major role in your collections. What makes the work with these materials and the mix of both so fascinating for you?

These are just my two favourite materials together.

I enjoy the juxtaposition of textures. It’s a method and material combination I had not ever seen used before. The result is due to the nature of my work as it is all hand made. The yarn is made from a shredding process I magicked. For A/W 12 I made a dress I used a sewing machine for but the odd combination of materials continues as I am using recycled monkey fur from a 1920’s coat.

Lady Gaga was recently wearing a pair of your shoes.

How did she become aware of your label? Could you get an advantage through this?

I don’t define my work by who buys it and I hope no one else does either. That’s all people care about and GOD is it boring and frankly insulting that my work is given value by celebrity endorsement over my blood, sweat and hard work. It’s a disadvantage. I don’t want to die being that person who once made a pair of shoes for a celebrity.

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In view of the fact that your collections constantly have something very dark and mystic as well as a very provocative touch, can you identify them with the current fetish trend which has become so popular?

I feel our need to categorize everything is a typically human burden. We like to put things in boxes in order to understand our place among them. People think, ‘Leather and it has straps so it must be for some sort of sexual deviancy’, but that is not the case. I hope it doesn’t come across like cheap Soho sex tat. I contemplate my work deeply, not just the function of where someones spaff is going to land.

During the creation process of your work; do you sometimes have moments of self-consciousness which could hinder you or maybe even have any (negative) effect upon your work? How do you handle this feelings?

Of course I do, I’m not some sort of machine. Waves of emotion are rushing over me at all times. I am not immune to this. During my design process I may focus on channeling certain ones. Whether I am feeling negative or self conscious this will naturally just become part of the work and part of immortalizing that particular piece of work.

Is there any designer you would like to collaborate with?

No. I don’t know what anyone else is doing. I’m not a information junkie, it’s not good for me. I do admire anyone who works hard for what they stand for in an artistic sense.

What’s your latest obsession? Are you principally easy to inspire?

I wouldn’t say that I am. Nor am I obsessed with anything, although possibly possessed. I never know how or when inspiration is going to appear and when it does it’s sometime hard to decipher. Like dreams, only flashes then blurs and It’s up to me to recreate point a to point b and try and materialize a feeling I can’t quite put my finger on. Sometimes these images appear, “poof ” in my mind. If I keep my eye closed long enough I see the details and then I draw what I imagined and make what I draw.

What are you planning next? Any projects, collaborations...?

I am currently and dreaming of opening a “Cramps album cover girl” themed GO GO dancing bar and venue. Dry ice and green lights. I want my only clientele to consist only of speed freak tramps because I won’t have to explain myself to them as they don’t ask questions. The most important thing for me is that I never succumb to complacency with my work. I want to keep going until some level of fulfillment is attained and I found what I am looking for and hopefully respected by my peers.

Photography and art direction (pages 11-13) by: Gabriella Marina Gonzalez Photography(pages 14 & 15) by: Sarah Piantadosi

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PERSONAL

STYLE OLIVIA F E AT U R I N G

HARRISON

dress - American Apparel Jewelry - Topshop

Where you are from?

I’m originally from a small town near manchester, England, but for the past year I’ve been living in London for University, which I’ve loved, although it can be uncomfortably hectic sometimes.

What do you go to school for?

Aha, this question just makes me think of the old busted song from years ago! Oh god, it’s going to be in my head for days now...

I’m currently studying Fashion Buying and Merchandising.

Absolute favorite items in your closet Probabaly my pleated leather skirt because it can be easily dressed up with bralets and structued tops, or down with old band tees, and my disco pants because they are possibly the most flattering item of clothing that I’ve ever owned.

And I always think that you can’t go wrong with a good leather jacket and a pair of denim shorts!

What’s your favorite places to shop?

I usually shop at charity/seconhand shops because you can often find things of amazing quality for a good price, but if I have money then I usually check out Topshop, American Apparel and Urban Outfitters.

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Dream job?

To be honest, I’m not really sure what my ideal job is anymore- I used to want to be a fashion buyer, but after a year of my course and doing an internship, I’m not convinced that I’m entirely suited to it, so I’m just looking around at different careers that I can still use my degree towards. I hope I’ll end up in fashion, maybe in a more creative side of it, like styling.

What is your biggest inspiration or thought process when deciding what to wear everyday?

It changes every now and then to be honest, but my main inspirations are probably the late 80s and early 90s (I have a half-sister who is twenty years older than me, so I have a few of her old clothes, and often use pictures of her when she was my age as inspiration). As for a thought process when deciding what to wear, I just feel that I have to make an effort with what I wear (if I’m leaving the house, that is!), so I’ll pick out an item of clothing, and then pair it with some matching items.

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SHIFTING GEARS WE CAN’ T GET E N O U G H O F. . .

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W

hen did Paradigm Shift come about? it started late 2010 ?

Me and my co-designer Mike were roaming around the dept store and had a realization while browsing racks of clothes. “Why don’t we make clothes?”

Are your designs influenced by the culture and style of Manila? our clothes are more influenced by the personal style of the people we admire here in manila. We are inspired by a plethora of entities. It is fun influencing and being influenced at the same time.

How do you envision people styling the pieces you create?

As much as possible we want our pieces to be multi functional. We want the people to maximize the pieces in its full potential. We love layering. It is a skill and people who are good at it will go far.

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The current collection has such a powerful presence in terms of fabric and cut, what was your ideas behind your choices?

We basically started with a focal element: SILVER. So from there we presented a shift in our collection while keeping our aesthetic sharp, androgynous and young. We wanted to meld the striking silver with the somber grey color. It was lovely seeing how silver upgraded the look and at the same time grey undermines it. That’s our style. Striking yet not ... striking!

Any big plans or collections that we should look for in the near future from Paradigm Shift?

YUMMY LEATHER.. soon!

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MAN BEHIND THE BRAND If you had to sum up what you wear on a daily basis in 3 words.....what would they be? Lean, Asian, genderless Any inspirations or muses that you look up to?

CHARLES GUISLAIN forever and Rad Hourani Statement accessories, love them or leave them?

Llove them ...and wear them so others would love them.

What is one trend you can’t live without?

Platform shoes til eternity What are your absolute favorite places to shop or favorite brands at the moment?

Pop up shops by young local designers here in Manila, thriftstores, Gold Dot Shoes, Paradigm Shift clothing.

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KARL LEUTERIO

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TOXIC CITY SLICKER Styling and photography by Ashley J Model - Kirstin Hybsch

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Dress - H&M Necklace -Forever 21 Sunglasses - Hot Topic

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CHA

REAC

AIN

CTION

S U B T L E

I S

S O

L A S T

PHOTOGRAPHY, STYLING AND MODEL

- ASHLEY J

S E

A S O N

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DOUBLE DOUBLETAKE TAKE PHOTOGRAPHY + STYLING ASHLEY J HARNESS ACCESSORIES BY ASOS AUDRA JEAN

OH

YES WE’RE

OBSESSED

WITH

OS ACCESSORIES

The talented duo Paul Jatayna and AJ have caused jaws to drop from their skeletal accessories. Located in the tropical land of the Philippines lies the inspiration, creation, and the masterminds behind the intricate pieces. Why not add a bit of vertebrae and ribs to your wardrobe? It’s only natural.

Who makes up the OS team?

There’s really just the two of us (AJ and Paul) but we also have a family of people who aid us in production. They’re our real backbone!

You are currently based in the Philippines.

Are there any aspects of the culture, street style, or people that influence your designs choices?

We got the idea of bones from the local Northern tribes. During the time we visited that area, they were selling python and shark spines. We fell in love with the idea of bone jewelry right away. We started collecting and molding bones then designed them with our combined acquired street aesthetic. That’s how our first collection started. Now we’re near finishing our third volume!

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What is the process when making each piece?

Everything is handmade. After molding and casting the bones, we also use special tools to give it a beautiful, smooth bony finish.

Any fashion icon at the moment that you would love to see wearing OS? Quite honestly we are already very happy seeing these really eccentric dressed-up kids getting photographed wearing Os in street-style blogs from different countries or seeing photos of these group of Asian kids in dyed hair going to underground clubs wearing our bones. We feel we’re connecting to everyone we share the same aesthetic with all over the world.

A typical day in the life of Paul Jatayna is......?

Downloading loads of music from my favorite blogs and creating endless playlists. When stressed out I play Pokemon!

Do you see yourself expanding into other aspects of the fashion industry eventually?

We’re planning on creating a furniture line really soon!

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT

AJ AGE - 27

PAUL AGE - 22

HOBBIES - Nothing very special really! I

either stay home and read music blogs or download the oddest films I could find or dress up and hang out with friends.

FAVORITE MUSIC - Too many to list down!

Whenever I DJ in our favorite club, my

set won’t be complete without Garbage, Kanye West, Bloc Party, Grimes, M.I.A., Crystal Castles, and The Cure.

WARDROBE STAPLE - Leather jacket

HOBBIES - sketching and painting,

coffee+cigarettes, homestuff, cooking dinner for friends,

FAVORITE MUSIC - Passionpit, Lana del Rey, Jonsi, 90s stuff, Mark Ronson, MIA

WARDROBE STAPLE - black shirt, black jeans

FAVORITE FOOD: a lot! haha LOVES - being creative FEARS - mediocrity

CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT - art or design

Favorite food our local delicacy, chicken Adobo!

LOVES. - The 90’s FEARS - grow old

CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT - Internet

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LUCID BEAUTY

PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING -ASHLEY J MODEL - LEAH WESOLASKI

SMOKE

A N D MIRRORS Smokey eyes, geomertic lines, and hot vibrant neons take us by surprise this season.. Dare to rock a winged eye or glossy cerulean lip?

Microsmooth Moonshadow Trio $17, Sephora

Hourglass Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo Sephora $38

Ultra Plush Lip Gloss Dandelion Pink Benefit $16, Sephora

ISN’T S H E

LOVELY

As the fast growing trend of graphic printed legwear continues to sweep the fashion scene, we find ourselves absolutely obsessed with the newest lable Lovelysally. Based in the heart of Italy, they have already captured the hearts of fashion lovers worldwide.

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Lovelysally

started in 2011 as a sort of spin-off

of a historic manufacturing company based in one of the most famous textile districts of Italy.

The company has produced, and is still producing, bikinis, underwear and accessories for

major Italian and international fashion brands. We inherited skills like great attention to quality, the mentality to work methodically and thoroughly and the use local resources all while being inspired by tradition. Lovelysally represents the evolution of Italian expertise and taste, both technologically and philosophically. We produce all our garments using 100% Made in Italy

products and 100% legal, qualified, Italian professional adults. We are located in Bergamo, in the outskirts of Milan.

What inspires you?

Everything we see. Sometimes it is graffiti that inspires us, sometimes the cover of an old vinyl, sometimes a dress, sometimes a landscape. You must be curious and look at the world with the eyes of a child.

Are there certain graphic images and visual references that you tend to gravitate towards when designing?

We have just been reflecting on this: we realized that we often use mountain scenes and we thought it was due to the fact that we live close to the mountains. The Subconscious is really surprising!

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Are there ever any pop culture trends and celebrity influences you take into consideration when producing new pieces?

We are currently fond of 80’s-90’s fashion, with afro influences and hip hop references.

Your newly established brand has already taken the fashion blogging scene by storm. As a designer, is there a rush you get from seeing such stylish customers across the globe rocking your pieces with confidence?

We love seeing our customers wearing our leggings! It is such a thrill to see the end result of our hard work. We create unique and beautiful garments and love to see our girls rocking them while looking amazing and confident.

What can we expect from Lovelysally in the months to come?

There is so much to come we don’t know where to start. We will be releasing a new swimwear line and new leggings in July. We are always looking to expand the Lovelysally brand to include skirts, dresses, tops and scarves just to name a few!

In 3 words, describe the almighty awesomeness that is Lovelysally.

Creativity, dedication and passion.

top right : Juule Kay from aprettypass.blogspot.com bottom right : Olivia Harrison

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NEON NOUVEAU

Purple halter dress - Forever 21 Silk satin neon slingbacks - Nine West

Coral dress - Forever 21 Blue Suede platforms - Jessica Simpson

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Polka dot bodysuit and shorts forever 21 Suede pumps - Nine West Patent hair bow - Hot Topic 97

RETRO RUNAWAY PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING - ASHLEY J MODEL - SARENA SMITH

the A R T of AGNES-CECILE Based in Rome, Italy

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CXIII

UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN....