The Berber Research Packet by Paige Carpenter

THE BERBER PAIGE CARPENTER

YOUNG BERBERTHWOMAN TH

LATE 19 – EARLY 20 CENTURY HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS SURROUNDING MOROCCO, NORTH AFRICA As my final costume that I created, I struggled to find a historical garment that I fell in love with. I had set parameters for myself for these historical garments, specifically; try to find costumes that are not Euro-‐centric. And the Mughal Aristocrat essentially knocked out the entire Middle East up into Turkey and even a bit of Mongolia. I searched for a historical garment that made my heart soar to get the chance to draw it and finally I stumbled across the Berber people of North Africa. The amount of detail that these people put into their clothing was incredible, and the fact that every piece of jewelry, every garment and every part of their entire look had a meaning, right down to their facial tattoos. I was particularly entranced by the way these people lived, primarily nomadic, living in the mountains of North Africa with their only contact being trade with the people of Morocco and their Islamic invaders. It is another blending of a few cultures with the source culture that makes for some of the most beautiful costumes and this culture was no different. You can see the influence of living in the desert, the need to survive in the mountains, the impact the Islamic people had on their dress, the inspiration of Moroccan design that translated into simple geometrics and reflected their surroundings. It is a very earthy culture which I particularly enjoyed. The jewelry was perhaps the most challenging, getting beads and colours and amounts correct to signify a young woman of these wandering tribes, perhaps she is simply looking for water, or tending to looms which the Berber people are famous for their intricate cloth and textiles. Even on the everyday, they dressed in their finery, all these jewels and beads and bracelets and headdresses that I felt honored to be able to recreate.

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scrapbooks and books on the subjects of Nomadic building, Jewelry and Berber Textile Design will be available for reference in the class. Music: Rau, Gnawan, Mixed CD from Morocco

BERBER SYMBOLS

(from www.ameltafsout.com)

The Berber people are the inhabitants of North Africa. Nowadays there are Berber groups from Mauritania to Egypt. They inhabit the mountain regions and parts of the Sahara Desert. Berbers refer themselves as the Imazighan meaning "The Free People". The Berber symbols, designs, motifs and tattoos originated from pre-Islamic beliefs influenced later by Islamic geometric patterns and ornamentation. Textiles and other objects are created as an act for worship and tribute to Allah. Many objects may contain a baraka. The baraka does not exist only in amulets or talismans but in any kind of objects in order to deal with darker forces and curing illnesses. In North Africa there is still some symbols to be found such as, magic squares and geometric figures (triangles, spirals, crosses, eight pointed stars, circles, diamonds).

1.OLIVE TREE: Strength because of its Berber name azemmur, diverted from the term tazmat (strength).

2.WHEAT: is associated with Life (because of it sheath) and Death (because of the seeds being in the ground).

3. TREE: is related to an easy life, happinness and fertility.It symbolises the centre of the world surrounded by Beings,objects and spirits. It also means Life (because of the roots) and knowledge (because of the leaves).

4. SEEDS: Male seeds and it is a symbol for Life and Fertility.

5. HAMMER: Power, natural forces and creative power. It is a very important instrument for the blacksmith because it enables him to change the iron into various shapes.

6. ANCHOR: Solidity, continuity, faithfulness, balance and lucidity.

7. AXE: A sharp instrument which represents anger and destruction, but as it does attack evil forces, it is a positive symbol. It is also associated with the lightning and rain therefore fertility.

8. ARROW: Cosmic projection. Associated with lightning and represents male energy and fertility.

9. SUN: Life, power. It is a source of Life, heat and light but could also be an evil force because it does drain the waters and can destroy the crops.

10. MOON: Associated with feminity and represents change, fertility and the perpetual cycle.

11. WEAVING COMB: It represents the movement of the world, balance, cohesion and tidiness.

12. SHIP:< Associated with water and means strength, blessing, wisdom.

13. CRESCENT: Change, revival, Openness, birth,death and resurrection of the full moon.

14. CROSS: movement, space with different directions: up/down - North and South, left/right -East/West.

15. SWASTIKA: Symbol for a bird therefore the creative taking off of Life.

16.CROSS WITH SIX BRANCHES: Movement and space but also solidity, anchoring and grounding.

17. DIAMOND: Feminity womanhood and fertility. It is associated with the snake and represents the union of opposites. AMEL TAFSOUT (01.10.2003) from website: www.ameltafsout.com

PAN- AMAZIGH SYMBOL

A ZA O R ZE D S YMBO L O F F REEDOM

The term "Amazigh" means "Free Human Being." The plural "Imazighen" refers to the original Free Human Beings who are the aboriginal people of North Africa. The symbol shown above is the Zed or Aza and is the symbol of Freedom and the Free People of Tamazgha, a territory which ranges from the Oasis of Siwa, Egypt, through Libya, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, the Canary Islands, the Sahara Desert, and south of it, [in]to Niger, Mali and Burkina-Faso. From: http://tizzlit.blogspot.com

Nose (represents the crow's beak which is worn strung around a child's neck for protection)

Lion's paw (a symbol of strength;the claws are a symbol of protection)

Finger (a protective symbol)

Barley (fertility symbol)

Partridge eyes (a symbol for beauty and women in general)

Chessboard (associated with dizzy spells and celestial experiences, perhaps symbolic of religious trances)

Frog (associated with fertility and also magical rites)

Spider (associated with fertility and also magical rites)

Seeds (fertility symbol)

Eye

Ouarida (a kind of flower)

Scissors

(a symbol for protection against the evil eye; the cross in the middle deflects evil in four directions)

Sickle (a symbol of metalworkers, whose occupation is treated with fearful respect as metal keeps away jnoun)

(the diamond shape is a symbol of protection against the evil eye)

Snake and fish skeletons (the snake represents a holy person and also has many magical and medicinal properties)

Bird (positive motif which carries baraka)

(a symbol of metalworkers, whose occupation is treated with fearful respect as metal keeps away jnoun)

Saw (a symbol of metalworkers, whose occupation is treated with fearful respect as metal keeps away jnoun)

Amulet

HOME For more information please contact me at webmaster@kenzi.com Copyright ÂŠ 2001 Maison Kenzi This page last updated May 2001

The Spiritual Dimension of Berber Design

Henna and the Moroccan Aesthetic It was in North Africa that the first henna plant appeared. The use of henna for decoration in Morocco goes back to the time when the Berbers first migrated to the area; they were long settled there when the Phoenicians and the Romans invaded North Africa. No one is certain of the Berber's origins, but it is generally believed that they came from either Yemen or what is now Syria. It wasn't until the 8th century that Arabs, spreading the word of Islam, invaded the Berber regions and added the Berber culture to their already rich mix. In the cave paintings of prehistoric humans of North Africa, we can see the beginnings of designs that reflected their daily lives as hunters and gathers. Likewise, early Berber images reflect aspects of their rural lives, connected to nature and the agrarian cycle. Thus, planting, harvesting, reverence of the sun, moon, earth and the stars are all inherent in the symbolism of the Berber's early cultural traditions and are carrie d on even today. Such symbols are not only for decoration but also for protection from the evil eye and from the evil spirits believed to dwell in the surrounding trees and streams. James Jereb, in his book The Arts and Crafts of Morocco, describes Berber designs as "a testimony not only to the meditative and aesthetic power that decoration holds for them, but a faith in supernatural power. Many pieces are valued not because of appearance alone--perhaps because of their form or the way in which they are decorated--but because they may contain a power known as baraka, a concept deeply embedded in Moroccan religious beliefs and crucial to the understanding of all artistic traditions in Morocco. Baraka has many meanings in Morocco, but it is principally the positive power of the saints and the Sufi brotherhoods. It is a source of inspiration among most Moroccan artisans...Baraka permeates all things to varying degrees; not only can it exist in jewelry, talismans and other manufactured objects, such as ceramics and textiles, it is also thought to suffuse plants, such as henna and oleander, and incenses, such as sandalwood and myrrh. This power is transferred to objects and textiles by the use of a particular artistic vocabulary of symbols, designs, motifs, colors and techniques that protect the object, creator and consumer." (p. 13) Baraka is sought and used to deal with the darker forces of life, curing illnesses and protecting oneself against the evil jnoun (spirits--the source of the English word "genie") and the evil eye. Berber symbols are included in the design of everyday objects to protect the object as well as the person who uses or wears it. These motifs appear in all aspects of the Berber artisanal tradition, including pottery, leatherwork and textiles, not to mention all types of personal adornment. Berbers found many ways to adorn themselves with jewelry, tattoos and henna. It is mostly Berber women who are tattooed. Because tattoos are forbidden by Islam, many women have found other outlets for placing their protective motifs by including them in textiles they weave and in jewelry and henna. Thus, the designs that are drawn in henna on the hands and feet of a bride on the eve of her marriage are these same protective and nurturing symbols that have evolved throughout centuries of use. ÂŠ Amel Tafsout 2003 | Contact Me | Credits

BERBER CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

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Type: Clothing -‐ Garment Object Name: Shawl Local Name: tajira Place Made: Africa: North Africa, Tunisia, Gabès governorate, Matmata People: Berber Period: Mid 20th century Date: 1930 -‐ 1970 Dimensions: L 160 cm x W 117 cm Materials: Wool; cotton Techniques: Plain woven; supplementary weft; fringed; dyed ID Number: T88.0467 Credit: Gift of James Catty In Matmata (southeast Tunisia), women’s shawls were dyed in red, black and blue. The colours corresponded to age: white was for very young girls, red for young women, and black or blue for older women. Historically, natural dyes were used to make these types of garments. Red was obtained either with madder (both cultivated and wild) or with imported cochineal. Indigo, the natural dye from which dark blue is obtained, was cultivated in Tunisia until the end of the 19th century, and later imported. By the 20th century, chemical dyes had become widely available. Both inexpensive and less time-‐consuming, these new dyes were embraced by weavers in Tunisia, as they were throughout the weaving world. (Textile Museum of Canada)

Type: Clothing -‐ Garment Object Name: Shawl Local Name: tajira Place Made: Africa: North Africa, Tunisia, South Tunisia People: Berber Period: 20th century Date: 1900 -‐ 1999 Dimensions: L 116 cm x W 116 cm Materials: Wool; cotton Techniques: Plain woven; weft-‐float; embroidered; fringed; embroidered; dyed ID Number: T88.0461 Credit: Gift of James Catty (Textile Museum of Canada)

Type: Clothing -‐ Garment Object Name: Shawl Local Name: tajira Place Made: Africa: North Africa, Tunisia, South Tunisia People: Berber Period: 20th century Date: 1900 -‐ 1999 Dimensions: L 75 cm x W 95 cm Materials: Wool; cotton Techniques: Plain woven; supplementary weft; tie-‐dyed; fringed ID Number: T88.0469 Credit: Gift of James Catty (Textile Museum of Canada)

Type: Clothing -‐ Garment Object Name: Shawl Local Name: tajira Place Made: Africa: North Africa, Tunisia, Gabès governorate, Matmata People: Berber Period: 20th century Date: 1900 -‐ 1999 Dimensions: L 185 cm x W 150 cm Materials: Wool; cotton Techniques: Weft-‐faced; supplementary weft; embroidered; fringed ID Number: T88.0465 Credit: Gift of James Catty The women of southern Tunisia weave shawls in different sizes and designs, which they often wear together in layers. The tajira has a square shape and is embellished with embroidery, fringes and pompoms. It is worn over the hair, usually under the larger and more rectangular bakhnug. In contrast to the stylized geometric patterns that are woven into the shawl, the embroidered patterns tend to be more free-‐form and whimsical. Typically, they depict zoomorphic and floral motifs. Shawls of this type are woven, then dyed; the woollen ground accepts the dye, while the cotton supplementary weft remains white. (Textile Museum of Canada)

Object Name: Shawl Local Name: handira, tahrdouhte Place Made: Africa: North Africa, Morocco, Middle Atlas Mountains People: Berber, Beni Ouarain tribe Period: Early to mid 20th century Date: 1930 -‐ 1970 Dimensions: L 233 cm x W 90 cm Materials: Wool; cotton Techniques: Weft-‐faced; discontinuous weft; fringed; braided Credit: Gift of Dr. Harry Hardin The Beni Ouarain Berbers inhabit the far northeastern part of the Middle Atlas Mountains. Their densely woven shawls are testament to the high elevation and resulting harsh winters. Women of this tribe pattern their shawls with weft shots of wool or cotton, which they leave hanging on the reverse side for insulation. The patterned bands are set close together, demanding a high level of skill and attention from the weaver. These shawls are worn attached under the arms by two braided cords. The long shawls are folded to create a load-‐bearing pouch on the back for women to carry anything from small children to animal feed. The most complex and highly prized shawls are reserved for special occasions, as they are technically demanding and can take months to complete. (Textile Museum of Canada)

Burnus Date: 1875–1940 Culture: Moroccan (Berber peoples) Medium: wool Dimensions: Length: 68 in. (172.7 cm) Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Robert Tolman, 1940 Accession Number: C.I.40.47 (The Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Robe Date: 1800–1941 Culture: African (Berber peoples) Medium: wool, silk Dimensions: Length: 44 in. (111.8 cm) Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Van S. Merle-‐Smith, 1941 Accession Number: C.I.41.110.120 (The Metropolitan Museum of Art)

Burnus Date: 1900–1975 Culture: Moroccan (Berber peoples) Medium: wool, cotton Dimensions: Length at CB (excl. fringe): 36 1/2 in. (92.7 cm) Width: 72 in. (182.9 cm) Credit Line: Gift of Dr. Marilyn Jenkins, in memory of her father, Dr. Arthur M. Jenkins, 1988 Accession Number: 1988.364 (The Metropolitan Museum of Art)

OTHER PHOTOGRAPHIC EVIDENCE:

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Old Fine -‐ Berber Necklace -‐ Nine Moons -‐ South Morocco Early 20th century. Silver, madrepore coral gr. 170,0 (5.99 oz.). The nacklace is cm. 43 long (16.92 Inches); the large central talisman is cm. 12,00 long and cm. 7,0 width (4.72" x 2.75"). This talisman of fertility represents the nine moons of human gestation. Berbers are the indigenous ethnic group of North Africa. They are continuously distributed from the Atlantic to the Siwa oasis in Egypt, and from the Mediterranean to the Niger River.The name Berberappeared for the first time after the end of the Roman Empire. Many Berbers call themselves some variant of the word imazighen(singular: Amazigh), possibly meaning "free people" or "free and noble men”. Today, most Berber-‐speaking people live in Morocco and Algeria. For reasons of robustness, the necklace has been restored by Amazigh. (888amazigh)

Necklace African, Northern Africa, 19th century PLACE OF CREATION DIMENSIONS Overall: 4.4 x 4.4 x 57.2 cm (1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 22 1/2 in.) MEDIUM OR TECHNIQUE Amber, coral, glass, enameled metal, coins, and other media; on cord CLASSIFICATION Jewelry / Adornment (Museum of Fine Arts: Boston) •

Berber necklace coral, coins amber amazonite original stringing. Private Collection of Linda Pastorino (Ethnic Jewels)

Africa | All of the enamel pieces and the larger Khamsa are Berber. Sourced from El Kellah Des Sraghna on the Marrakesh Plain, within walking distance of the High Atlas. (David R.E. Hunt)

A collector's and exceptionnal pair of antique silver Berber earrings from South Morocco, possibly Marrakech. [...] Great design in good conditions ( one glass decoration seem be rewelded ). The small coins are dated from 1299 to 1321 from Hegira and there is one hallmark ( 1925 ss. ) of Marrakech on the reverse of one glass decoration. Smal chips to the red glass stones. Early 20th century. [...] They measure about 20 cm. ( 7.87" ) in height and the diameter of the loop is ca. 5.6 cm. ( 2.20" ). Weighs 190 grams ( 6.70 ounces ). (Ethnic Silver)

Berber earrings Private Collection of Karim Carlo

(Ethnic Jewels)

Two Silver Fibulae (Cloak Clasps) Draa Vallery, Central Morocco 19th century (one dated 1299 AH or 1882 AD) length: 10cm & 7.5cm, weight: 31g & 12g (43g combined) Clasps such as these were used by Berber women in the Draa Valley in central Morocco to attach cloaks about their shoulders to their other garments. These two are of silver, each applied to an old silver dirham coin from Morocco. One coin has a visible date -‐ 1299 AH or 1882 AD. Both have an excellent patina consistent with age and use. References: Splendeurs du Maroc, Musee Royal de l'Afrique Central, Belgium, 1998 (Michael Backman Ltd.)

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CITATIONS

Backman, Michael. "Islamic Cloak Clasps, Moroccan, Draa Valley, Berber." Islamic Cloak Clasps, Moroccan, Draa Valley, Berber. Michael Backman LTD, n.d. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. "Ethnic Jewels -‐ An Appreciation of Ethnic Jewellery and Adornment." Ethnic Jewels An Appreciation of Ethnic Jewellery and Adornment. Sarah Corbett, 2013. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. "Ethnic Silver -‐ Berber Jewelery." Ethnic Silver -‐ Berber Jewelery. Ethnic Silver, 2004. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. Hill, Daniel D., and JoAnne Eicher. ""North Africa"" History of World Costume and Fashion. N.p.: Prentice Hall PTR, 2010. 266-67. Print. Hunt, David R. E. "TurkoTek Discussion Forums -‐ "Khamsa"= "Hand of Fatima"?" TurkoTek Discussion Forums -‐ Are There Designs or Techniques in Moroccan Rugs That Came from the Wider Islamic Tra. N.p., 19 Sept. 2003. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. Metropolitan Museum of Art: Collections. Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2012. Web. "MFA Collections." Necklace. Museum of Fine Arts Boston, 2013. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. Seller: 888amazigh. "Africa, Old Fine Berber Necklace -‐ South Morocco." EBay. N.p., 20 July 2012. Web. 13 Jan. 2013. Textile Museum of Canada Collection and Exhibitions. Canadian Heritage, 2009. Web. 13 Jan. 2013.