“Contemporary jewelry is to be considered as one of the possible expressions of contemporary art and not jewelry“
Giò Pomodoro
artistar jewels 2019 fall edition - palazzo bovara - milan
The seventh edition of the extraordinary event Artistar Jewels took place in October 2019 in Milan, marking the birth of the first Milano Jewelry Week with it. For the whole city this was an opportunity for development and promotion, but also to return to its cultural identity as a metropolis linked to the world of jewelry. In fact, this precious art sees its beginnings precisely in the Milanese capital since it was the capital of the Western Roman Empire in the 4th century AD, passing through the Lombards to the very active medieval corporation. “The contemporary jewelry is an open field where goldsmith, contemporary art and design are harmoniously cultivated. It is a three-headed Cerberus who presides over a labyrinth in which those who go inside challenge the concept of jewelry, broaden the scene of the arts of the present and rethink the culture of the project; a way to create a break from the past, to get away from the more traditional forms and functions of the jewel to continue, however, to define an object as a jewel. “(Giampaolo Babetto). The jewel is therefore no longer seen from the perspective of an exclusively ornamental object, nor tied to one of the ritual moments of our life. What matters is the idea, which dominates the conventional use of precious stones and materials, enhancing the mind and the arm of the artist who creates it. Finally, contemporary jewelry breaks with tradition, which wants jewelry to be only feminine, and opens up, like contemporary society, to every genre, breaking social conventions.
Thanks to Artistar Jewels, Milan, which is the city of design, fashion, experimentation and visual and aesthetic research, pays attention to its master goldsmiths, to its companies and to the training of future artists by fully reinterpreting its identity, turning it towards the future. Artistar Jewels has become the reference event for the world of contemporary jewelry: synonymous with quality and uniqueness. Each year it shows the public a selection of over 510 wearable works. Among the more than 500 applications received from all over the world, the curators of Artistar Jewels have selected 154 artists from 40 different countries. Taiwan, Thailand, Lebanon, but also Armenia, Israel and Kuwait: Artistar Jewels opens the doors to artists from every country, rewarding the high artistic value, technical experimentation, design, stylistic research, personal interpretation of traditional techniques, the originality of the themes presented and the technological innovation. Showcasing the pieces at the show, having contact with the experts, taking part in a successful contest, winning a competition with a prize to invest for their education and profession, are experiences that have no equal for a young person which looks to a noble and ancient trade like that of the goldsmith and Artistar Jewels represents a precious opportunity for anyone who wants to make his work his own passion. On the other hand, even for the companies, it is an extraordinary opportunity to cultivate the goldsmith’s trade, of contamination between different experiences, knowledge and exchange between territories, artisan and artistic heritage, techniques of processing and specific local cultures.
Rossana Ricolfi - Technical Coordinator Scuola Orafa Galdus ClassesThe artist is a Florentine Master of Goldsmith and Sculptor, and much more. Founder of the artistic movement called Perceptive Dynamism, the Master is also a musician graduated in Pharmacy: an all-round artist whose family history is almost 400 years old. He was awarded the title of Honorary Professor of Goldsmith at the Faculty of Architecture of Florence. His works are exhibited at the Museo degli argenti of Palazzo Pitti as well as at the Museo della cattedrale in Fiesole.
#Materials
18k Gold
Sculpture ring belonging to the Il guardiano dell’anima collection (1999-2004). The ring is named after an ancient Russian fairytale. The story tells of an old witch who flies on, erasing the paths in the woods with a silver broom. She lives in an elevated hut that rests on two crow’s feet, the keyhole of the front door consists of a mouth full of sharp teeth; the outer walls are made of human bones.
info@alessandrodari.com
www.alessandrodari.com
#Year
2012
#Typology
Ring
18 kt yellow gold and 9 kt diamonds sculpture ring. The piece represents a butterfly with a woman’s body and wings scattered with diamonds. Taking a closer look, the body of the butterfly turns out to be both feminine and masculine, which , joined together, fly towards infinity. To depict the emotionality of perception, it is necessary to use perceptive dynamism. By creating movement, a door opens to the perception, and consequently to the soul.
After studying at the Silvio D’Amico art studio, with a focus on the art of jewelry, the Roman artist continued his studies of scenography at the Academy of Fine Arts in Rome . This union results in his original research in the art of jewelry. The pieces of The Bones Project collection are the result of his bone anatomy studies. Using the strength of harmonic geometry and leveraging his scenographic studies, the artist uses bones as contemporary elements.
#Materials
This ring is made of 925 silver. It has four large spiers that frame a black onyx supported by four griffes. Also in this case, it is possible to mount gems of different shapes and colors, which can be customized according to the customer’s taste. The ring is created using the harmonic geometries that characterize The Bones Project collection, in this case the torso vertebrae.
t7-t4
#Year
#Typology
925 Silver
2019 Ring
cittadini.alfredo@gmail.com www.alfredocittadini.com
#Year
2019
#Typology
Earrings
Instead of being inserted into the earlobe, this type of earring is worn by placing it around the ear. It can be worn in two ways: with the tips pointing towards the nape or toward the cheekbone. In both cases, it is comfortable and of great impact. Like all the pieces of The Bones Project collection, which draw inspiration from the bone shapes, the aesthetics of this model is inspired by the geometry of the T7 vertebra.
After earning an MA degree at the State Stroganov Academy of Design & Applied Arts in Moscow, Alyssa A. worked with decorative materials, such as glass, ceramic, and wood. She has created various contemporary art objects. One year ago, Alyssa chose jewelry design as her sole priority.She made first serious jewelry while studying under Vlad Glynin at the Academy.In her jewelry, she seeks a balance between precious and decorative materials, with the aim of obtaining harmonious forms.
#Materials
22.47 - to Thursday evening. A beautiful young woman in a blue silk dressin sitting in a cafè full of smoke. Her glass is almost empty. She gets bored, removes the ring from the finger of her left hand, the slow melody blues is playing and she twists it, examining her almost empty glass, the terracotta walls of the bar, the cigarette smoke, the warm dim light of the lamps: everything merges into a singularity in the reflection of the perfectly shiny metal of her ring. The movement of the ring slows down, falls... The melody continues.
#Year
2019
#Typology
Bracelet
jwlr.by.alyssa.a@gmail.com @by_alyssa_a
#Materials
Circle is a perfect geometric form. This form symbolizes the cycle of time and harmony of the Universe. At same time, this series of jewelry is the designer’s ode to minimalism. With the creation of these pieces, the designer sets herself to the task of finding a balance between completely different materials; wood, metal, magnets and color. This jewelry series called “Modul” was created by rearranging and combining bracelet modules. Each of us can become an artist, each time creating a new piece of art.
Claude Lescar is a jewellery artist who lives and works in Marne la Vallée, France. After working on various materials during years as technological teacher, in 2016 she decided to move towards jewellery. Very sensitive to her environment and its spectacular evolution, she seeks to express its fragility, with concrete fragments, kind of vestige showing the “marks of time” and the richness of a past… perhaps recent.
#Materials
Concrete, Brass, Steel, Pearl
Fragment... like a relic... a memory... “fossil” of a recent past. Concrete brooch whose fractures are highlighted by gold leaf inlay. This block seems to be surrounded by a kind of framework that has suffered some constraints. Cultured pearls, gold-plated and garnet remained captive. The set, very light is attached to a gold plated spindle system. Urban style and avant-garde jewel for every occasion.
#Year
2018
#Typology
Necklace
claude.lcreations@gmail.com
www.claudelcreations.fr
Concrete, Brass, Steel, Pearl
#Materials
Hanging fragment... like a precious memory, memory of a recent past. Some cracks and crevices reveal “precious traces” of gold. Semi-circular in concrete, the set is suspended between two gold-plated steel cables covered in nylon in 2 parts, to a kind of traverse (brass) twisted appearing as a ribbon and on one side a few gilded links of a chain. Thin and light, it will complement a simple and clean lines clothing.
She was born in 1978, in Argentina and currently lives in Santiago de Chile. She studied architecture but currently is focus on her jewelry studio, moreover, she is the director of the ORNAMENTAL Jewelry research area, in Fab Lab Santiago. Ornamental is a research space of FabLab Santiago, reconsidering classic jewelry concepts, exploring through digital fabrication techniques, novel and decontextualized materials and localcircular production approach.
The collection is inspired by the repetition of natural patterns. The combination of technologies (laser cutting) refers to a crossroads of current problems, using contemporary jewelry as a way to communicate them.
#Year
2019
#Typology
Brooch
ornamental@fablabsantiago.org www.ornametalab.cl
serpentine
This piece understands natural patterns as repeating systems, in constant motion. The piece aims at expressing itself not only through the form but also through the material and technique, calling for reflection on current issues. Textile crisis and overconsumption, digital technologies, and nature as the root of organic systems.
Born in Switzerland, the artist creates innovative designs using silk and contemporary fabrics. Stones or glass give shape to each piece. Her latest collection includes the lightest jewelry in the world - a necklace that weighs less than an ounce. She has developed a highly complex personal technique based on the antique Japanese Shibori, which makes her jewelry unique in the world. Doris Berner’s jewelry was exhibited internationally and is included in the design collection of the State of Berne.
This bracelet fascinates with its dazzling fabric. The shiny silver spheres float around the wrist. The work is extremely elastic and resilient. This new, airy design captivates wearers with its iridescent, sensual elegance. Moreover, the memory effect of the dimensional stability is amazing. All the objects are pressure-resistant as well as easy to clean.
dorisberner@bluewin.ch
www.dorisberner.ch
#Year
2015
#Typology
Necklace
#Materials
Like berries, the shimmering silver elements seem to have sprouted from the jewelry. The organic shapes and lively asymmetry give this necklace its special character. The necklace is made of soft, high-quality organza in a mysterious deep brown and silver. The effect of the dimensional stability is amazing. All the items are pressure-resistant and easy to clean.
pinot griggio
The designer is 27 years old and comes from Israel. She is a Multidisciplinary B.A student, specialising in goldsmith’s work at Tel-Hai Academic College of Art in the north of Israel. In July 2019, she submitted her final project called “Requiem”. This project portrays the phenomenon known as “Coral Bleaching”, a stage in the dying of coral reefs around the world due to global warming. She is interested in working in a studio and participating in different exhibitions and galleries in the future.
The coral reef, perhaps one of the most amazing things in nature is characterized by vibrant colours, busy traffic and magnificent structures. The most striking thing about it is the complex symbiosis between living creatures and their ecological environment. In this piece, the designer tried to create a sense of height growth like the weeds and plants that exist in the reef. The tangy weeds are inspired by the sea lily coral where a clown fish lives.
edengedj@gmail.com @edengedz_jewellry
#Year
2019
#Typology
Necklace #Materials
One of a series of three neckles, inspired by different corals. There is a beautiful contrast between the copper that oxidizes and blackens over time against the white enamel that symbolizes the coral dying. In this project, Eden tried to give the feeling of the wonder and the beauty that happened when we looking at a coral reef, and maybe raise awareness of the sad state of coral reefs across the oceans. Given the damage we humans do, it’s important to raise awareness, and art is a great platform.
Always interested in architecture, art and design, the artist earned her professional experience in architectural design thanks to 13 years of activity at the Mario Botta studio, which operates at international level and is based in Mendrisio, in Switzerland. In 2018, she founded the architecture and design studio AnD - ARTS n DESIGN in Mendrisio, focusing on her passions, figurative arts and design. AnD is a creative space and a container of ideas.
This pinkie ring is made of silver in the white and black version. The concept of the rings is inspired by geometry and volume at the Church of San Giovanni Battista in Mogno, Switzerland, designed by the architect Mario Botta. The sacredness of the architectural element is reflected in the jewel with the creation of two rings in solid silver in the form of a seal. Black and white follow the alternation of the two local materials with which the Church was built.
#Year
2019 Ring
#Typology
This piece is made of a pear wood box containing 7 hand-made 925 silver rings. On the occasion of the hundreth anniversary of the founding of the German avant-garde school, a tribute was paid to the movement that involved artists, architects, designers, graphic designers, artisans and photographers of the 20th century. Each ring is a small architecture that represents a letter of the name BAUHAUS and at the same time follows the simple geometries suggested by the modernist movement.
After having earned a degree in Art History with a final dissertation on the Greek Goldsmith, the artist attended Salvatore Gerardi’s Goldsmith School and at the same time a renowned silverware workshop in Rome. In 2002, she started her workshop. She prefers the lost wax microsculpture that allows her to “stage” emotions, memories and passions in the form of small wearable stories. Jewelry is an expressive means that can be combined with all the art forms.
#Materials
925 Silver, Epoxy Resin, Enamel
Few centimeters tell the drama of those who leave. Of those who travel the sea in the hope of a better future. A raft with no clear shape recalls the journey, the stormy sea, the tired people adrift who encourage one another in the hope that the journey ends as soon as possible. Some will not arrive at the end, while others will touch the coast in the hope of being welcomed.
#Year
2019
#Typology
Necklace
925 Silver, Yellow And Red Bronze, Epoxy Resin, Enamel
#Materials
The necklace tells the story of those who daily seek their fortune in our seas, those who travel across the seas hoping to find a port that welcomes them despite the deaths and the risk of drownings . Each disc recalls those who got lost and continue to try. Men, women and children of all colours and backgrounds who look for a better life every day.
Born in Copertino in 1982, Laura Forte attended the goldsmith school in Lecce and in 2001 moved to Bassano del Grappa where she continued her studies in this field, becoming goldsmith / designer. In 2005 she opened a studio in her hometown approaching the world of contemporary art. She mainly works with oxidized gold and silver, mixing new 3D technologies. She was awarded in various competitions and exhibited her works in various international galleries.
Being deep, going deep. Deep, a ring made of gold and oxidized silver, results from a conceptual work, an empty object that descends into another space, because things are not just “things”. They remember, indicate and refer to another dimension that we call ‘depth’. The most intimate and secret part of people, their character and sensitivity.
This is a ring made of silver with hydrothermal citrine quartz, the central focus of this eclectic and, at the same time, minimalist creation. A circle that encloses, a circle intended as a symbol of the cyclical, infinite and universal time. A cyclical conception of time in which certain matter transformation phenomena take place. The material takes shape, becoming a precious work, a contemporary and unique jewel .
So it’s official: Milano Jewelry Week has become a fixed rendezvous in the schedule of Lombardy’s capital city. The dates have already been set for the forthcoming edition (from October 22 to October 25), CNA Federmoda has confirmed that it will sponsor the event, dozens of locations have announced they will be glad to host future events, while many artists are already proposing their creations for next years’ rendezvous. A success going well beyond the numbers of the first edition (which were quite respectable: forty thousand visitors from Italy and abroad, 60 locations involved, more than 350 attending artists with some ninety events altogether in different parts of town) and which enters the field of emotions and of a new way to communicate the world of jewels, speaking not only to those directly involved, but also to the whole public of consumers, enthusiast and curious.
A cosmopolitan, multi-faceted metropolis, which has long been the home for creativity, culture, fashion, craftsmanship and design, Milan is the perfect venue for this Week, and it made jewels “live” in the most diverse contexts, some truly surprising, opening to the public the gates of jewelry, ancient building, historic shops, art galleries, hotels, show-rooms and laboratories, schools and academies. In parallel, a series of guided tours, workshops and interactive lessons with personalities of the field have contributed to focusing on some very contemporary issues for the world of jewelry, like the advent of the digital, issues related to training, the use of social media in communication and marketing.
Milano Jewelry Week met with success because it was able to involve and surprise, arousing curiosity also about little-known artistic worlds and paths. One need only mention among the great many events, all noteworthy, artistprotagonists like the special guests Gianni De Benedittis, Nicolas Estrada and Faust Cardinali, or emerging young creativesthe extraordinary archive (2000 original drawings which cover over a century of history of jewels) of the Merzaghi firm, active since 1870 in the very heart of Milan with its laboratory; the bamboo paper jewels of the Greek designer Domenika Konstantinidi, on exhibit in the extraordinary Pettinaroli stationers; the selection of jewels created
by Italian artists and worn by female icons of the Dolce Vita, presented at Galleria Consadori in via Brera by the Didier Ltd gallery; the performance at Yuriko Gioielli, with the possibility of designing one’s own jewel guided by the designer Laura Volpi; the lessons at Galdus Academy and the Tour of Scuola Orafa Ambrosiana, amidst the enthusiasm of the teachers and the commitment of young people working there…
Focusing this year on artists’ jewels, the next Milano Jewelry Week will also open up to the world of jewelry, considering the requests which have come from many goldsmiths who have seen in this event a new and dynamic approach to the world of jewelry, animated by a sensitivity which is aware of tradition, yet also aware of our times and with an eye on the future.
Antonella Garello - Editorial Coordinator l’Orafo Italiano
The artist was born in Milan on 3 December 1969. Since 1997 he has been living in Formentera, Baleares, Spain. He began to work as a self-taugh goldsmith at the artisan fair in Formentera in 2000. For almost 20 years he has been exploring the structure of living forms applied to jewelery and applied arts in general. He combines goldsmith work with experiments extending to ceramics, sculpture, photography, in order to find analogies under different perspectives.
#Materials
Polyurethane foam disc. The artist works the surface with a 5-branch radiated symmetry, like sea urchins or starfish. The fusion is in burnished silver while the spheres in the center are made of pure gold. The gold stains of the welding highlight the notches and the complexity of the design. Something deep, but bearing light, a dim but inextinguishable light. Gold-bathed steel chain.
#Typology
Ring made of polyurethane foam. The individual elements of the flower structure were shaped by hand and assembled with hot wax. The modelling was done by adding small elements to one another and by then assembling them. A “design” very widespread in the natural world to create large and complex structures. The artist is fascinated by the evocative power of the fictitious naturalness as well as by shapes that evoke other shapes. Etched silver and stains of gold welding.
In 2018, the artist and architect began to explore the art of the artifact as a true archetypal dimension of creation. In the awareness of an evolution consisting of historical alternating courses, he considers his jewels as pre-minimalist: the simplicity and the reduction of the materials used are associated with the expressive strength of geometric composition. All the Lunante jewels are personally hand-made.
#Materials
Gold-Plated Brass, Polymer, Micro-Inter
Proportions, geometric rules and their violation are the abstract theme of these rings. The spelling of the word “trilogia” consists of four parts and the prevailing form is the square. The upright, shifted and extended positions of the square represent the different stages of our existence and everyday life, therefore the rings are very easy to be worn: we carry them without being aware of it.
#Year
2019
#Typology
Ring #Materials
Gold-Plated Brass, Brass Powder, Polymer, Pigments
Are jewels the most precious things of a man? Absolutely not. These pieces exactly express this thought. These rings combine two symbolic images that are real at the same time: the heart, symbol of every life, and the charatcers of the Barbapapà, a playful metaphor recalling the childhood. This jewel is not difficult to be worn because it tells what is most precious to us.
The brand was established in 2012 from the creative “union” of Gaia Guarnieri and Caterina Martinelli. In 2014, they started the Aquamadre project, aimed at testing the creative potential of recycled plastic materials. In the following years, the project consolidated and evolved, focusing on the creation of contemporary jewels. Thus MagmaLaB contemporaryjewels differentbynature was born: accessories entirely hand-made, the result of research, experimentation and unique manufacturing.
#Materials
Polyethylene Terephthalate, Graphite, Glass, Steel
Elements characterized by a process that “embroiders” small border areas on each of them, portions of material that meet and lead to a visual and tactile transformation. The technique used to connect them has been designed to allow for only a partial movement, describing the tension between the desire to remain separate in one’s individuality and the inevitable urgency to understand that human nature always makes us interconnected with one another.
#Year
2019
#Typology
Necklace
www.magmalab.org
Polyethylene Terephthalate, Brass Leaf, Glass, Steel
#Materials
The ripples on the surface of the plate recall the sea waves. On those waters which were once a way of transit and exchange, nowadays boundaries are set to establish which is the “right” part, the land of gold, and who has the right to enter it. At the centre of this sea, however, a propulsive force emerges, an unstoppable thrust like the waves on which it moves, which will inevitably overcome the illusory barriers that encircle us.
The Roman artist graduated in Art History and for several years has devoted herself to thejewelry world, deepening her studies at the School of Ornamental Arts in Rome and attended a CAD course at Le Arti Orafe in Florence. She has participated in various events: an intercultural exchange between Rome and Algiers, an exhibition at Castel dell’Ovo in Naples, another exhibition at RIBA North in Liverpool with the Amedeo Modigliani Foundation as well as at the Giorgio and Isa De Chirico Foundation in Rome.
From the series inspired by metamorphoses, a work in “slow motion” represents all the transformation steps of a corn grain that turns into Pop-Corn. A dynamic process that becomes consequential and observable in a single time. In everyday life, Popcorn has three observation times: past, present and future. In the work, they are presented together in a single perspective, in a single vision, without any expectation and without waiting.
#Year
2018
#Typology
Necklace
#Materials
A wooden base (it is not present in this photo), a necklace and a fully tempered pencil. What is left of it? Itself, decomposed. Where it all starts because the pencil leaves a pure mark. A metamorphosis in three acts: wood, pencil and shavings. The decision to temper an entire pencil implies that it loses its connotations, never used, except in the sign at the base of the support, without the possibility to express itself. It is the shavings that speak for it, to tell us what it has become. Two entities in one body.
PalladinGold jewelry studio and Tatyana Kholodnova present “The Antigravity Illusion” collection - a unique combination of space technology and artisitc thought embodied in jewelry. PalladinGold jewelry studio was founded by Sergey Kostin, who created various precious metal-based jewelry alloys using his knowledge and expirience from the aerospace industry. Tatyana Kholodnova has a degree in Jewelry Desgn and 12 year work expirience in the jewelry industry.
#Materials
Palladium-Based Alloy PalladinGold™ 950, Diamonds, Nanosital
The entire collection consists of four pieces, which are all made according to one principle: a continuous line creates a 3-dimensional abstract shape. The inspiration for this ring was the gravitational singularity of a black hole: there exists such a point in time and space where light makes the illusion of being distorted. The stone in the ring represents this very point that needs to be overpassed.
#Year
2019
#Typology
Earrings
#Materials
The collection is made of a unique and precious PalladinGold™ 950 alloy, which consists of 95% of palladium and only 5% of alloying elements that make the alloy as hard as stainless steel. “Attraction and Repulsion” represents two phenomena, which, in their nature, are opposite, but characterised by mutual attractions. The earrings, which are made in the style of mismatch, represent the same idea. They differ in their nature, but together they create a single whole reaching harmony.
Born in São Paulo in 1982, she is a jewelry artist with an eternal desire to create objects that carry poetry. In her studio, she has two focuses. The first is dedicated to children’s art, in which she eternalizes children’s drawings in hand-made sculpture by herself. Her second focus is the creation oh her pieces, where she brings art and jewelry together with passion.
#Materials
Gold Plated Silver, Thread
For the Ring from the Cubes collection, the jeweler uses the cubes to represent human beings. In the HeyDay ring, a cube is placed alone and floating under a layer of soft nylon threads. It symbolizes the moments of apex and success experienced by the human. Made with straight shapes, the gold plating technique was used to show moments of light. This ring offers the observer the reflection and unique feeling that the piece offers.
pauladidario@me.com www.pauladidario.com.br
#Year
2019 Ring
#Typology
950 Oxidized Silver, Brass, Mirror
#Materials
For the Ring from the Cubes collection, the jeweler uses the cubes as a mirror for men. In this ring, the cube is placed between many thorns made by hand-welded silver pins. It refers to the challenges and difficulties of life. Made with straight and cold shapes, different materials were mixed to reveal the darkness through the contrast between the oxidized silver, the mirror and the cube alone, reminding us of the moments of solitude.
Autodidact. Contemporary jewelry design is a method to her to decrypt meanings, omens, our existence. Common and omnipresent shapes and objects are jer source of inspirations. The driving engine behind her designs is the exploration of the relationship, conflicts and symbiosis between traditional jewelry and its potential on the interdisciplinary edge of other visual art forms. Petra’s unique pieces are held in collections in the USA, Brazil, United Kingdom, Israel, Italy, Romania, and Portugal.
#Materials
HARUSPEX POSTMODERNUS collection, 2019. To understand you need
more than just two eyes. Since time immemorial, human kind believed higher powers offer a perpetual stream of signs in the phenomena of daily life, which if read rightly can direct humanity’s affairs. Times may have changed. Methods may have changed. But we still want to see further, understand more, be the recipient of special insight. To become a haruspex postmodernus.
HARUSPEX POSTMODERNUS collection, 2019. Heart’s beat means life. Does the heart beat faster in a day that contains thousand times more events? When we see more, when we listen more, and when we create more, we live thousand times more. The double-edged gift of trying to see beyond the obvious means responsibility. When you want to understand your future and shape it, you need to open it. Revelations may not be pleasant or easy but are perilous to doubt.
When it was proposed to ESH Gallery to participate in the Artistar Jewels network, I immediately accepted with the knowledge that it would have been a good opportunity for the gallery. We must immediately point out that ESH Gallery is a contemporary art gallery focused mainly on craft and sculpture, and therefore the possibility of giving adequate attention to the art jewelry since its foundation has appeared immediately natural. So we chose to include in our annual schedule at least one event specifically dedicated to this strongly growing reality as well as inserting jewels into our collective exhibitions.
The artist’s jewel is an artwork. The work of art is the point of arrival of a clear path, even if often difficult and tortuous. An idea or concept expressed through a series of attempts, errors or second thoughts becomes a work of art when the observer perceives that initial spark that the artist wanted to communicate. Moreover, in the case of contemporary craft - and even more so in the jewelry world - manual skills, technical knowledge and talent become the main features of the work.
Therefore, the wearable art is turned from a complement to an integral part of the essence (and not necessarily aesthetics) of the person who wears it: when an artwork becomes wearable and finds its ideal context in the person who chooses it, we can talk about a real performance! Body, soul and work of become a perfect unity. Finding the right artist with the right creations is not easy, but the collaboration with Artistar Jewels has certainly simplified this research work, giving us the possibility of coming into contact with many talented international artists.
This special section is entirely dedicated to the 2019 Fall Edition Network, consisting of international jewelry galleries and concept stores such as:
158 Studio - Sorrento (Italy), Alice Floriano - Porto Alegre (Brazil), Autoria - Porto (Portugal), Babs Art Gallery - Milano (Italy), Eleni Marneri Galerie - Atene (Greece), ESH Gallery - Milan (Italy), Galeria Yes - Poznan (Poland), Inthependant - Porto (Portugal), Irene Belfi - Milano (Italy), Oìa Treasures - Santorini (Greece), Schmucke - Berlino (Germany), Upper Concept Store - Paris (France).
The work that Artistar Jewel has created and promote through its network is therefore very important for us. The chance to search through a further channel, strongly international and representing a different and wide variety of approaches to jewelry compared to those we usually use, has certainly contributed to the discovery of interesting realities with which we have started to collaborate or we have planned to do so.
The Milan Jewelry Week has revealed the dedication and interest with which the selected artists have turned to the galleries to improve their approach: an interesting dialogue not one-way, but rather a fruitful exchange of ideas that led us to know some possibility never considered before.
Each gallery has a different vision, but a common denominator is the need to present to its customers, prepared and trained for the continuous attendance of the contemporary art world, something unique and that is comparable as an aesthetic experience to that to which they are used to experimenting at major art fairs, exhibitions and galleries. Therefore, to all the jewelry makers: think like an artist and work like an artist.
+39 818785704
nicolettapassarelli@158studio.com
www.158studio.com
158 Studio is a space dedicated to contemporary jewellery located in Sorrento, Italy. 158 is the street number of the house that hosted the owner Nicoletta Passarelli during the three years of studies in Jewellery Design at the IED in Rome. In April 2016, thanks to her passion, Nicoletta founded the gallery, laying the foundations for a personal and ambitious project. Exactly two years later, in May 2018 the studio moved to the heart of the historic centre of Sorrento, in a former jewellery shop of the ‘70s, respecting the past history towards a future that is expected to be wonderful. Today 158 Studio is a boutique that hosts collections of jewellery and fashion accessories of several emerging Italian designers, which are distinguished by the use of sophisticated and unique materials. A meeting place between the oldest and most traditional jewellery and the latest technologies. They are the real protagonists, telling the story of the designers who shaped them. The constant research for collections with alternative materials and the encounter with different designers make 158 Studio an always new space, which changes over time into a different form but always true to itself. The goal is to collect the needs of a wide and heterogeneous clientele, with different tastes and personal inclinations, to create a shopping experience to remember.
The Alice Floriano Gallery opened on September 24th, 2015 in the city of Porto Alegre, Brazil. The aim of the gallery is to promote contemporary jewellery as an artistic movement and cultural expression. Alice Floriano represents established artists and new talents of the world scene, giving space and visibility to those who are at the beginning of their career but already shows consistent works. In 2017 a new sixmonth experimental temporary space was inaugurated in São Paulo. In the first open call there were more than 200 entries from which the gallery selected 30 new jewellers to compose the exhibition. The aim of the gallery is to increase the opportunities of public access to this extraordinary portable art still not very widespread. Since 2018, the gallery acts in a punctual and itinerant way in the capital of São Paulo and in other Brazilian cities, organizing important event such as the exhibition The Television Necklace by Lisa Walker that took place in September 2018. Bimonthly a new exhibition is inaugurated rotating individual and collective exhibitions. Alice Floriano Gallery seeks to find the coherence between the concept, the technique used and the final result of each project. Today it represents about 50 artists, and it constantly selects new names to be part of the catalogue.
+351 932992435 / +351 929012342
info@autoria.pt
www.facebook.com/galeriaautoria
AUTORIA is a contemporary jewellery gallery and workshop located in the Art District Area of Porto, Portugal. The project is shared by two jewelers, Inês Sobreira and Susana Barbosa, who both studied jewellery from the ESAD, School of Art and Design. Inês and Susana share the love for creation and jewellery production. In this space you can buy the pieces of the authors and also witness the working day of a contemporary jewellery workshop. Periodically, they also organize solo and collective jewellery exhibitions with works of others Portuguese and foreign authors, with the purpose of diversifying and spread the contemporary jewellery panorama. The gallery opened in September 2017, and has already done several exhibitions, collective or solo along those 2 years live. Among them: 19/01/2019 – Milan Kampfer photography, Milan Kampfer is a dancer at Pina Baush company and photographer. In March 2019 they hosted Sara Malm, a Sweden jeweler. In May 2019 – Aurifex Italica, an exhibition with Letizia Maggio and Rita Martinez, two jewelers based in Italy. In June 2019 they hosted the “Destruction for Reconstruction” exhibition: 5 broken objects take on a new sence. Colective Joyas Sensecionales : Alicia Giraldez, Carla Garcia, Nicole deister, Carne Roher, Fátima Tocornal, Gemma Canal, Lola Gratacós, Lourdes Carmelo, Xus Anglés, Ramon Puig Cuyás and Silvia Walz. In September 2019 Autoria hosted the solo show of TelmaDA jewellery. TelmaDA is a brand that combines architectural concepts with contemporary design. In November they held Ilustration from Mariana Mattos and jewellery from Crua Design, Inês Sobreira and Susana Barbosa - SB Jewellery.
BABS Art Gallery originated in 2018 from an idea by Barbara Lo Bianco. The gallery’s concept is focused on collaboration with artists. They create jewelry as if they were sculptures to wear, unique pieces or limited editions linked to the value of creativity and stylistic innovation. The inspiration comes from the desire to show art not as something to see and admire from afar, but to always carry with youpeople are encouraged to touch it, to wear it, and in this way, art becomes part of daily life for those who own it. The gallery devotes great attention to the process of making, where artists are offered the fascinating opportunity of “converting” the key aspects of their poetics from the large surface of their sculptures or paintings to a tiny and very personal object to wear on the human body. Together with the artists BABS follows the sketches’ execution very closely, the jewelry’s production in the foundry or the studio and eventually develops an exhibition project. The exhibition activity includes a solo-exhibition’s time frame, in which the jewelry on display establishes a dialogue with the artists’ oeuvre: sculptures, paintings or photographs in the gallery space. Besides temporary exhibitions, BABS Art Gallery focuses on secondary market jewelry, which includes some of the most significant names in the ‘900 art scene.
The brand was established in 2008. The core concept was inspired by the rich Thai heritage and traditions that blend with Asian cultures. Combining with a variety of designs and new material development, “Asian Elegance” was born. Sarran’s ‘art to wear’ creations are combinations of wisdom in the past and the modern lifestyle. Each product has its story and is an expression of emotion. History is given life through his products, which speak volume of his passion and glimpse of the past.
#Materials
Compression Fabric, Brass
Ruk is a Thai flower that means love. Shadow and light make the white flowers look dimensionally and the numbers 3-5-7-9 are the numbers of auspicious Thai flower matching. Long time ago, Thai women used flowers as accessories and extracted their scents to use as their perfume. They also used scented candles and potpourri on their clothes. With their looks and fragrance, Thai women were like beautiful flowers.
#Year
2018
#Typology
Other
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With their looks and fragrance, Thai women were like beautiful flowers. Thai women’s traditional dress is a shoulder-to-shoulder clothing that is baked with fragrant flowers and Thai herbs. When the wind blows, the men who watch them are like the owners of the smell that are blown by the wind. This represents this shoulder- piece jewelry. It is completely hand-made compression of fabric and brass.
The artist is a graduate of Yerevan Academy of Fine Arts who likes to experiment with various materials, creatively transforming them into fine jewelry with a recognizable style and an aesthetic that is entirely his own. His jewelry is balanced and imaginative, brought to life using his exclusive craftsmanship and vision. Paying great attention to details, forms, shapes, and mediums, together in harmony, he aims to make creations that tell their own stories and strive for timelessness.
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14k Gold, Ebony, Enamel, Diamonds
The ring is the artist’s interpretation of the mystical galaxy that contains the Solar System. Combining his inspiration with architecture and childhood fascination with “the hazy band of light seen in the night sky”, the artist has created wearable object of art, echoing the Milky Way. The ring is made of 14K yellow and white gold, masterfully combined with ebony, enamel, and diamonds. The ebony and other elements are elaborated by hand to achieve the intended composition.
sh.hakobian@gmail.com
#Year
#Typology
2014 Ring #Materials
14k Gold, Blue Topaz, Elastic Thread
The ring is inspired by the belief that everything is interconnected in the universe. The artist reflects the cosmic connection concept through a thread that unites two planets, or, as he also interprets, two persons. The ring is made of 14K white and yellow gold with the use of hand wax carving technique and is set with blue topazes. All the elements of this wearable object of art are assembled by hand through one single elastic thread.
She is both a jewelry designer and a fashion stylist. She graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in Łódź. She has exhibited internatonally multiple times and won many awards such as JOYA Barcelona Art Jewellery & Objects. Slawa creates everything live without sketching in advance. Forms, details, spaces are the quintessence of 17 years in the profession. She is a colourist, choosing all tones very carefully. She likes to combine different techniques.
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Baltic Amber, Threads, Resin, Foil, Glass Beads, Silicone Tubes
The unique necklace is made exclusively with author techniques. Base slightly bent, nicely arranged on the neckline. The whole is sewn by hand, fixed with resin. Two Baltic ambers look beautiful against the background of grey, turquoise and pomegranate. The necklace is very elegant, spacious and biomorphic. It is definitely a refined touch to any stylization. Several zircons gently penetrate a larger piece of amber. The range of colours is carafeully selected.
#Year
2019
#Typology
Necklace
Fabric,
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High-couture necklace made with unique techniques. It is very spacious, colourful and light. It contains a lot of details like sequins, beads, hand sewing, and fixed graphics that the artist painted before. This necklace is very elegant, refined and feminine, to the extent that it revives every creation. All elements were hand-sewn and then fixed with resin. It is fastened with a hidden strong magnet. The necklace is slightly asymmetrical.
Since she was a child, the designer has always loved to make small things, inventing toys from scrap materials, imagining that they were alive and had a soul. Nowadays, she has graduated at the artistic metalwork department of the Saint Petersburg Stieglitz State Academy of Art and Design and lives in the Urals. “The wandering dinosaur” is her first complete collection, all the pieсes were invented by hand sculpting from wax and then processed with 3D program.
The first ring about dinosaurs, which marked the beginning of the whole series. It was invented for a girl, who did not play with dolls when she was a child, but preferred dinosaurs and, as an adult, wished a buddy dino-ring. Before it was done in 3D, it had four different versions of appearance made by hand. Due to 3D technology it can be scaled to any size and become not only a ring but also a full-fledged street sculpture.
#Typology
+7
9516644563 @sof_jeweller
Silver, Polymer Coating
This dino is made up of a heavily-built and armoured structure with bony plates, vivid violet colour, a coating that looks like stainless-steel surfaces, resembling balloon sculptures by Jeff Koons. It looks dangerous and funny at the same time. The idea was to make bright jewelry without the use of any natural colors of gold and silver as well as of precious stones, but, nevertheless, the piece is immediately noticeable, appealing and striking.
She is a Chinese artist working in jewelry and ceramics. A lecturer in the Jewellery Department at Shandong University of Art and Design, Yang obtained a Doctor in Visual Arts at the Queensland College of Art Griffith University in 2019. Rather than making traditional jewelery, Yang prefers to create objects that promote dynamic responses from the viewer or potential “wearer”.
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This piece offers a real-time opportunity for wearers to temporarily step back from their bodies, observe the transformation in their behaviour reflected in their bodies, and examine their spontaneous reactions. When people carefully review their bodies, they turn from a wearer into an observer. Through observing, studying, and performing their own bodies, wearers are invited to experience a sort of ‘identity journey’ between reality and illusion.
#Year
2018
#Typology
Necklace
yangxiaohui930@163.com
By adjusting the mirror, people can interact with the Selfie Machine to check their face. This action can be regarded as a scene simulation action to show the movements that people make when using a smartphone to take selfies. Compared to the smartphone, this memoryless machine only shows the wearer’s current selfie which is ever-changing. This work is intended as a circumstantial experience which allows the participants to see their changing body and identify themselves throughout time.
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