Professional Beauty UK - February 2019 by Professional Beauty UK

PROFESSIONALBEAUTY

FEBRUARY 2019 £4.75

TANNING TRENDS • CBD IN SKINCARE • RECRUITMENT • PB LONDON PREVIEW • THERAPIST WELLBEING

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GROUND The innovations you can see at PB London

How employers and therapists can maximise on February’s buoyant jobs market

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B E S P O K E B U S I N E S S PAC K AG E S To offer high quality products that are linked to the medical exper tise of Dr Nadia Payot. We place wellbeing, tr ust and the safety of our active ingredients at the hear t of our approach. We are committed to developing the PAYOT beauty experience, from France, to the UK, and throughout the wor ld. Open an account today, from as little as ÂŁ750.

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15 News Elemis sold to L’Occitane for £700m; school pupils being held back from beauty courses

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29 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online

Contents

Feb

Contents

35 Out & about Behind the scenes at the industry’s biggest parties and launches 41 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 47 Ward’s world Why in some cases the therapist doesn’t always know best 51 Ask the experts Managing acne-related problems and adding manscaping to your menu 145 Staff strategy What is The Good Work Plan and how will it impact your salon? 147 Nail bites Tortoiseshell nail art proves a hit and we take a peek inside on of North Wales’s hottest nail salons 150 Treatment news Smarter anti-pollution and IPL facials take centre stage, plus we give our verdict on the Body Balancer

Features

On the cover

61 Talking to…Caroline Larissey The chairwoman of BASIC on how she’s creating pathways to make aesthetic qualifications accessible to therapists

68 Get ahead for 2019 PB London is returning to ExCeL on February 24–25, with more than 800 brands exhibiting their hot launches. This year we have even more education and competitions on offer, ranging from Live stages and the Salon & Spa Networking Lunch, to the WSW Convention and Lash Championships

127 Strength in numbers Babtac chair Lesley Blair on the impact Brexit is having on the beauty industry 129 Tailored approach 10 ways to attract clients of colour to your salon and how best to treat their skin needs 133 Nature’s nectar Finding out what benefit CBD oil has on the skin and how salons can incorporate it in treatments

154 New products Phytomer launches a cellulite lotion and Elemis extends its vegan range

137 It’s party time Bag your seat at the PB Awards

160 Career Path Nail tech and YouTube star Natasha Lee on becoming a social media influencer

139 Fighting fit Pilates teacher Kerry Beavis demos exercises that will keep RSI at bay

111 New year, new recruits With February named the busiest month for job hunting, we reveal how you can recruit the best talent as well as retain therapists who may have itchy feet 118 Golden opportunity The UK’s leading celebrity tanners dish the details on this year’s top tanning trends and how to work them into your menu successfully Cover: Mii Cosmetics from Gerrard International Photographer: Jen Wilding Make-up artist: Anna Priadka

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The future of the beauty workforce has been a cause for concern for some time, so the news this month that some schools are putting barriers in the way of pupils taking vocational courses such as beauty therapy has been met with anger. Although schools are obliged to introduce learners to all types of course from a young age, many are preventing this from happening in a bid to keep students on in school for A Levels and access the associated Government funding. Find out more in our news story on page 17. While this is certainly not the only reason fewer good therapists are entering and remaining in the industry, it’s undoubtedly playing a role. However, as we enter February, the focus on retention becomes even sharper. It is widely recognised as the most popular month for job moves, as the impact of New Year’s resolutions take effect, so our feature on page 111 explores how both employers and therapists can take advantage of the more buoyant market, holding on to those staff who are worth keeping, and finding new ways to attract good therapists who are looking to move. Creating opportunities for career growth is an important route to staff retention and there are more than ever on offer at Professional Beauty London this month. So, be sure to check out our full preview from page 68, where we reveal all the product innovations and business training at the show. From the new Salon & Spa Networking Lunch to the revamped World Spa & Wellness Convention, PB London brings more opportunites to share the challenges you face every day and learn real-life solutions from the industry’s best.

Editor

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Editor’s Comment

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15 News

News Elemis to be acquired by L’Occitane for £700m Elemis has entered a deal to be sold to the L’Occitane Group for $900 million (£700m). The British professional skincare brand is changing hands from current owner Steiner Leisure, a portfolio company of private equity firm L Catterton, which acquired Elemis in 2015, to French company L’Occitane. Founded in 1990 by chief executive Sean Harrington and fellow directors Noella Gabriel and Oriele Frank, Elemis is known for hero ranges including Pro Collagen and the recently expanded Superfoods line. The brand has five strategic distribution channels – digital, retail, QVC, professional spa and cruise ships.

L’Occitane chairman and chief executive Reinold Geigersaid said the acquisition marked “a major step forward for L’Occitane in building a leading portfolio of premium beauty brands”. He added: “Elemis is well positioned for continued global growth due to the brand’s broad appeal, awardwinning product portfolio, robust new product development pipeline and effective consumer-focused digital and brick-and-mortar distribution strategy. “We have long admired Elemis for their commitment to natural ingredients and scientific innovation, and we look forward to utilising our expertise in the category to expand the brand’s

footprint around the world.” Harrington said, “Reinold Geiger has a strong history of developing and supporting brands like ours that are creating products sourced from nature and developed through cutting-edge science and technology.” L’Occitane International is a manufacturer and retailer of natural and organic beauty products. The Group owns five brands: L’Occitane en Provence, Melvita, Erborian, L’Occitane au Brésil and LimeLife by Alcone, and has more than 3,000 retail outlets, including more than 1,500 owned stores, across 90 countries.

Nail Harmony opens first All That Jazz Beauty Bar with plans to franchise nationally Nail Harmony is opening its first company-owned standalone salon in Clacton, Essex, with plans to roll out the model as a franchise opportunity in the future. All That Jazz Beauty Bar will sit alongside The Royal Hotel, which is also owned by Nail Harmony directors Georgie and Jason Smedley. It will house three treatment rooms, one of which will be a sunbed room, plus an additional nail area with three nail desks and two pedi stations. There will also be a makeover station offering make-up, and lash and brow treatments, plus a hair wash station that will offer an ASMR (autonomous sensory

meridian response) experience involving the use of relaxing sounds with hair washing. The salon was gearing up to open as Professional Beauty went to press and the owners were already planning phase two, which will see the salon develop into a full spa offer, including a plunge pool, Jacuzzi and sauna in what is currently the basement area, plus an upstairs relaxation room. General manager Jazz Christodoulou, daughter of the Nail Harmony directors, said, “We’re so

excited about opening our brand new Beauty Bar. We’re ready to expand and we have made it as luxe and beautiful as we possibly could. We hope to eventually have a few over the country but we want to get this one up and running before we start to think about it.” professionalbeauty.co.uk

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inbrief

Secondary schools preventing pupils from finding out about vocational courses

UK schools are preventing pupils from finding out about alternatives to A Levels, such as vocational beauty therapy courses, to avoid losing sixth form funding, leading think tank IPPR (Institute for Public Policy Research) has revealed. Less than two fifths of secondary schools have been complying with the legal requirement to allow colleges to advertise vocational qualifications to pupils from the age of 12, with IPPR describing the situation as “very poor”.

Other schools have been accused of only giving access to underperforming pupils who are not “deemed fit” for sixth form, with several colleges complaining of “selective compliance”. In January 2018, the Baker Clause came into force, which stipulates that schools much ensure that a “range of education and training providers” have access to pupils from year eight to year 13, so they can be informed about the technical and apprenticeship opportunities available to them – in a bid to have these avenues recognised as equally important as traditional academic routes. All schools are now required to explain in writing how colleges can inform pupils of their options to improve compliance with the Baker Clause.

Queen B nail salon in Croydon opening “destination” beauty salon

Queen B Luxury Nail Lounge in Croydon, Greater London, is gearing up to open a beauty salon in a bid to make the business a “destination space for beauty”. Scheduled to open in Q1 of 2019, the beauty salon will be situated next door to the nail business and feature three treatment rooms. The menu will include facials by pro skincare brands Murad and Matis, as well as waxing, laser hair

removal, massage, eyebrow and eyelash services. “I always knew I wanted to expand the business to make it a high-end space in the area like no other,” said Queen B Luxury Nail & Beauty Lounge director Peter Borg. “For the first month, I’m only letting our current clients book in for treatments because they’ve been so loyal and supportive – I want to give them first access. The salon will open to the general market a month later.” Borg is also looking to hire four senior therapists to work in the beauty salon and plans to launch additional treatments this year, for which he will have exclusivity in the South East. Queen B nail salon opened in April 2016, specialising in nails, and has a client base in the thousands.

News

// The Hair Loss Friendly Spa campaign launched in January via a pilot scheme in Champneys resorts. The campaign, led by Jasmin Julia Gupta, helps spa operators offer thoughtful touches such as wig stands, head scarves and access to scalp care guidance to ensure women with hair loss feel welcome. // Irish people spend €9 million (£8m) a day on beauty products and treatments, according to figures shared in RTE documentary One Day: Keeping Ireland Beautiful. The show revealed that Ireland has a workforce of 30,000 beauty therapists, hairdressers and fitness trainers. // Australian spa product house Gaylia Kristensen has signed its first central London spa account, the Spa at Sofitel St James. The spa’s therapists are being trained in the brand’s three facials, which will be available to clients from February. // St Tropez has partnered with facialist and tanning specialist Michaella Bolder, who is now the brand’s VIP tanner. With more than 10 years’ experience in the beauty industry, Bolder has worked with publications including Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. Her celebrity clients include Kelly Brook and Dame Helen Mirren. // Jessica made its QVC debut in December as guest presenter and Jessica expert Maggie Hind appeared on the channel alongside Jessica educator and manicurist Georgie Walker. The pro nail brand is now also available via QVC online.

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News

inbrief

Natural ingredients and bold lip looks top Pinterest’s 2019 beauty trends

// To celebrate the first birthday of its Wax One waxing brand, Sweet Squared is hosting a series of events throughout February. The free two-hour workshops will allow therapists to discover the brand at Sweet Squared’s Manchester, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds and Dublin academies. // Dame Louise Ellman MP visited The City of Liverpool College’s Duke Street Centre to meet principal Elaine Bowker, and Alan Woods OBE, chief executive of the Vocational Training Charitable Trust (VTCT). During the visit, Ellman and Woods discussed the importance of technical education to the UK’s economy, and the crucial role it can play in tackling poverty and deprivation. // Presenter and model Lisa Snowdon has been announced as the new ambassador for Laser Lipo’s Strawberry Lift, the aesthetic treatment designed to define the jawline and contour the cheekbones. Snowdon is a former presenter of Britain’s Next Top Model and runs a wellbeing blog called You Glow Girl. // HD Brows headed back to the Dancing on Ice studios for the second consecutive year. Lead brow stylist Jamie Long tended the brows of both celebrities and professionals. Sister brand Nouveau Skin Therapy was also onhand to deliver skin treatment the A-Lift. // The Spa at InterContinental London – The O2 has become the first in the UK to offer the Skin Regimen Urban Longevity Facial, which is designed to counter the stresses of urban living by alleviating tension, reactivating circulation and promoting deep detoxification.

Natural extracts topped the Pinterest 2019 beauty trends list, part of the top 100 list of trends predicted to define consumer shopping and lifestyle behaviours this year, compiled by the ideas-sharing website. Elderberry and plant extract bakuchiol, which is being compared to retinol for its anti-ageing efficacy, are billed to be two of the most popular natural skincare ingredients of the year, with an

increase of 685% in searches for elderberry recipes and 275% in searches for bakuchiol. Interest in ginger, hailed for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, grew by 659%, as users searched “ginger oil” for ideas to use in baths and massages. Meanwhile, witch hazel is experiencing a resurgence as a solution for problem skin, with searches up 305%, while Pinterest users are seeking out natural solutions such as castor and grapeseed oils to boost their lashes by searching for “natural lash lifts”, up 52%. In terms of make-up, it looks as though bold lip colours are on their way back after more subtle shades took centre stage in 2018 – searches for “standout lip colour” increased by 467%.

Beauty businesses under-representing religious groups and older people Salons and spas could do more when it comes to diversity and inclusion, with the beauty industry coming out as the sector where religious groups and older people are the least represented. According to Marketing Week’s annual Career and Salary Survey, which reveals the industries where diverse groups of people are under-represented in the opinion of marketers who work within them, almost a quarter (22.4%) feel the beauty industry is the sector where religious groups are most under-represented. Beauty was also named the industry that lacks inclusion of older people in marketing materials, with a third (33.7%) of marketeers saying they are most likely to be under-represented, followed by the technology and software (32.3%) and entertainment (31.7%) sectors.

LGBT employees are most likely to be under-represented within the charity sector (19.8%), according to the survey, followed closely by travel and leisure organisations (18.7%) and beauty businesses (17.5%). However, single parents were found to be best represented in smaller organisations of one to nine people, and in general, small businesses are outclassing their bigger business rivals when it comes to inclusion, the report found.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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inbrief

// Women were encouraged to ditch shaving and waxing in January in a bid to break the taboo surrounding female body hair. The campaign, called #Januhairy, was founded by drama student Laura Jackson from Exeter University and encouraged women to grow out their natural body hair and raise money for charity. // CACI’s celebrity fan base has continued to grow. In 2018, the machines brand added new admirers including Eva Mendes, Gaby Roslin, Denise Van Outen, Rochelle Williams, Chloe Lewis, Melissa Odabash, Kristina Rhinaoff, Laura Whitmore and Aisling Bea, all of whom used CACI systems to get their skin red-carpet ready. // The Spa at Bedford Lodge Hotel in Newmarket, Suffolk, has completed further training with Wellness for Cancer. The spa now has seven fully qualified therapists and has extended its treatment offering to include Espa’s Nurture & Support programme, a collection of four face and body rituals. // CND distributor Sweet Squared supported Beauty Box salon owner Natalie Wilson to raise money for the Leeds Children’s Transplant Team by donating four CND Creative Play Playland collections as raffle prizes. Wilson’s daughter Holly was born with a rare genetic kidney disease and is competing in this year’s British Transplant Games. // Grayshott Health Spa in Surrey is putting a creative spin on holistic wellness with the launch of three Enrichment Retreats, which will focus on personal development through creativity. The retreats are: Creative Wellbeing, Writing for Renewal and Inner Resilience.

Government to test nail salon licensing scheme in Manchester

The Government’s Gangmasters and Labour Abuse Authority (GLAA) has announced plans to carry out a scoping exercise, likely to be in Greater Manchester, to measure the scale and threat of modern slavery in nail salons, and to determine whether a licensing scheme would help stop the problem. The recommendation to tackle

modern slavery in this way came from the Labour Market Strategy report in May 2018, as a result of the impact nonstandard salons are having on the wider beauty industry. The Government has also accepted other measures to crack down on employers who exploit and underpay workers, including a “naming and shaming” scheme whereby the names of employers will be published along with average arrears per worker. As of April 2019, legislation will also require all employers to provide payslips for each member of staff, with total hours worked and hourly rate of pay stated. See page 145 for more on the proposed changes to employment law.

Level 2 Trailblazer beauty apprenticeships ready for delivery As part of the Government’s apprenticeship reforms, the beauty make-up consultant and nail services technician apprenticeship standards and assessment plans at Level 2 are ready for delivery in England. George Hammer, chair of the Trailblazer Steering Group for beauty professionals, said: “My thanks go out to all the employers from across the beauty sector who have put in considerable time and effort to make these standards a reality… [they] will make apprentices

more ‘job ready’ when they finish training. I feel what we’ve achieved will make a real difference.”

NEWS IN PICTURES

News

BBC Three is launching a TV competition to find the UK’s best make-up artist. Glow Up: Britain’s Next Make-Up Star will see 10 MUAs compete to win a contract assisting major make-up artists. The judges are Val Garland, global make-up director for L’Oréal Paris, and Dominic Skinner, global senior artist for MAC. Presenter Stacey Dooley will host. Each week contestants will work to a different creative brief.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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diarydates // February 17–18 Professional Beauty GCC & World Spa & Wellness Convention Festival Arena, Dubai Middle East version of the beauty trade show and exec-level spa conference. +971 (0) 40375 7300 professionalbeauty.ae

Windsor salon marks ninth Guinot franchise Guinot has opened its latest franchise salon in Windsor. Franchisee Narinder Joshi converted a former hair salon into a Guinot-branded salon, complete with five treatment rooms, reception area and retail space. The basement was renovated to house four of the treatment rooms, plus a client waiting area, staff kitchen and bathroom, while the fifth treatment room is the biggest and is situated on ground level to allow for disabled access. “It has taken me a long time to get to the grand opening but once we had the Guinot brand on board everything clicked into place. I’m very proud of my team, headed by salon manager Kirstey Dorey, who I am sure will offer a first-class service to all our clients,” said Joshi.

Louella Belle appoints head of education Louella Belle, distributor of Morgan Taylor, Artistic, Seche, Famous Names and Footlogix, has appointed a new head of education. Bryony Cocksedge joins with 11 years’ experience in the beauty industry; having worked as a spa therapist, nail technician and educator for OPI, where she also did session tech work. She commented: “I’m really looking forward to helping grow an integral part of the business while working with some amazing brands and talented people.”

Venus Concept partners with Saks Aesthetic devices manufacturer Venus Concept has announced a partnership with Saks Hair & Beauty salons as the official provider of IPL and radiofrequency technologies. Saks salons will now offer treatments with Venus Versa, a multi-technology machine that combines multipolar radiofrequency with pulsed electro magnetic fields for skin tightening, body contouring and sculpting treatments. Versa also offers IPL with SmartPulse technology, treating unwanted hair, acne, thread veins and pigmentation.

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News

// February 24 Professional Beauty and World Spa & Wellness Awards The Brewery, London Awards ceremony and three-course dinner celebrating excellence in the global beauty and spa industry. 020 7351 4536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ awards

// February 24–25 World Spa & Wellness Convention ExCeL, London Conference and networking event for international spa owners and hoteliers. 020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com // March 3–5 INNOCOS Fairmont Mission Inn & Spa, California, USA A conference on beauty trends. +32 1527 0962 innocossummit.com // March 10–11 Irish Beauty Show RDS, Dublin A show with products aimed at beauty and nail professionals. 01789 773434 irishbeauty.ie // March 15–18 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Fairground District, Bologna, Italy Exhibition with sections for packaging and perfumery. +39 02 796 420 cosmoprof.com

professionalbeauty.co.uk

16/01/2019 16:42

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For the Body

DUO CRYOLIPOLYSIS

RADIO FREQUENCY

SHOCKWAVE

CAVITATION

For the Face

RADIO FREQUENCY

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1 Fractional CO2 laser for vaginal tightening

ISO 13485

29 Digital

professional

beauty .co.uk

Kirsty Mawhinney (@skininsight): #wheretobein2019 @pro_beauty is the No.1 Professional Beauty Trade Show. #IMFLondon is a conference you don’t want to miss!

We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Hot topic Ruth E Moulden (@orchidsretreat): My awesome achievement of 2018 was competing in @warpaint_mag “Professional MUA: Runway” competition at @pro_beauty01 and winning third place after having a year of being ill.

“A new wave of aesthetic treatments could help salons secure a USP” Tracy May-Harriott, international director of education at Elizabeth Arden, commented: “Aesthetic beauty on the UK high street will be making changes – the best clinics must lead with a point of difference away from just cosmetic. Great news that practices will be getting a surge in the five years ahead, as we watch our high street change.”

Hot topic THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you currently work with or support a charity at your spa/salon?

45% YES

55% NO

Embracing female body hair during #Januhairy @pro_beauty01: Launched by drama student Laura Jackson, #Januhairy encourages women to embrace their natural body hair. Will you be taking part? Claire Murray, freelance make-up artist and hair stylist, commented: “I already am and didn’t know it was a thing!” Saiqa Kayani, owner of Saiqs Hair and Beauty Salon, commented: “I’m afraid most Asian women won’t be doing Januhairy. Why? Because they would have to tuck their hair into their socks and get special netting for the rest. More hair than our dads!”

Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK

@georgeseago @fivlemmiks

uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty

@lydiamormen @katsjonouchi

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Digital

What’s on

hot

Your one-stop shop where all the latest news, features, products and expert opinions are brought together and streamed by sector-specific channels

PB ONLINE BUSINESS & TRAINING CHANNEL

Video: How to get your boss to give you a pay rise Asking your boss for a pay rise can feel like a nerve-racking experience – but it doesn’t have to be. In our PBTV video, managing director of Zest Skin Spa Louise McFadzean reveals how to negotiate a salary increase, from taking an active role in setting goals, to putting yourself forward for training.

SKINCARE & SPA CHANNEL

NAILS CHANNEL

Video: Professional Beauty London 2019 Customer Testimonials

Video: 2019 Nail Trends

Ahead of PB London 2019, hear from some of the show’s previous visitors on why you should attend. Discover brands that you might not be familiar with yet and join us at the heart of beauty on February 24-25, 2019.

Gemma Lambert-Lewis, owner of The Nail Team, tells us what some of the key trends will be for nails in 2019. With textured nudes expected to be particularly popular, Lambert-Lewis explains the process of how to create the effect.

Watch our exclusive videos now: professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbtv

Whatever your speciality, stay in the know on the sector that matters to you with our six online channels, packed with curated content on need-to-know business skills and training advice. Skincare & Spa

Nails

Tanning & Waxing

Advanced Treatments

Business & Training

Lashes, Brows & Make-up

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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MINUTE LASER BODY SCULPTING

TOK YO COLLECTION SPRING 2019

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24 & 25 Feb 2019 ExCeL London

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07/01/2019 17:08

TOKYO COLLECTION S P R I N G 2019

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FIND OUT FOR YOURSELF and request your FREE information pack: 0044 1942 252873 or Info.uk@janssen-cosmetics.com www.janssen-cosmetics.com

Industry Events

Out About

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

PBTV FILMING DAY THE JAM TREE, CHELSEA

Filming for PBTV took place in January with key brands that will be exhibiting at Professional Beauty London in February. Exhibitors such as Lizzie Wilkinson from The Eyelash Emporium, Tarryn Vice from Finishing Touches, Lara Fordham from Carlton Professional, Matt Taylor of Eve Taylor, Waxu’s Jenny Hunter, Dr Vincent Wong and many others joined the team to talk about their latest launches and plans for 2019. Get a sneak preview of what they had to say, including an insight on the innovations they’ll be launching at Professional Beauty London at ExCeL on February 24–25, by heading to the Professional Beauty Facebook, Instagram and Twitter channels.

CACI INTERNATIONAL LAUNCHES IN LEBANON MUNROE HOTEL, BEIRUT, LEBANON CACI International held an exclusive launch event at the Munroe Hotel in Beirut, Lebanon, with the brand’s Middle East distribution partner, The Medica Group. A wide range of guests including doctors, physicians, clinicians and beauty experts attended to see the CACI technology. CACI’s global export manager Mark Todd presented a summary of how the non-surgical facial technology can be integrated into the beauty market for all age groups. Medica’s training manager Nadine Khoury was also there, demonstrating the CACI Synergy machine to guests.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Industry Events

36 GUINOT INTERNATIONAL FRANCHISE SEMINAR AND AWARDS CEREMONY PARIS, FRANCE The Guinot Franchise team and its network of franchisees travelled to Paris for the International Franchise Seminar and Awards Ceremony. The day began with a speech from GuinotMary Cohr chief executive Jean-Daniel Mondin and international franchise manager Edouard Falguieres, which discussed Guinot’s goal of keeping salons at the forefront of its mission. They also spoke about the franchise network growth, as it entered new international markets such as the United Arab Emirates, Asia, Spain, Germany and America in 2018 and welcomed 74 new franchisees to its network, making a total of 224 globally. There was then a tour of the Guinot laboratory and manufacturing plant, where franchisees had access to the Guinot archives from the past 50 years and witnessed the production process of some of their favourite products. In the evening, the international Guinot team hosted a gala dinner for the 2018 awards ceremony. Justyna Rostek was the UK and Ireland’s winner of Franchise Salon of Excellence and joined Guinot UK managing director Chris Gillam on stage to receive her award.

INVESTORS IN PEOPLE AWARDS THE ROUNDHOUSE, CAMDEN, LONDON Ridma Perera, chief executive of the London Makeup School and London Hair Academy, took home the People’s Award for Manager of the Year at the Investors in People Awards, which took place at The Roundhouse in Camden. The event was hosted by comedian Russell Kane with the winners announced by the voice of Strictly Come Dancing, Alan Dedicoat. Paul Devoy, head of Investors in People, said, “This year’s Investors in People Awards were an inspirational celebration of best practice across our international community. It was fantastic to see so many worthy organisations nominated for outperformance in their approach to people management. I commend the London Makeup School and the London Hair Academy for their dedication to improving the quality of work for people in the UK. Congratulations to Ridma Perera on winning this year’s People’s Award for Manager of the Year.” PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09:35

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SEE US ON STAND R6

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41 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

Recruiting and retaining the best therapists out there has been top of your agenda this month, which is why so many of you have been developing employment strategies that focus on the positives of your company culture as much as the salary. When creating a new job description, 38% of you now list the extra benefits employees get when they join, such as flexible working hours, access to healthcare or subsidised travel, while 30% explain the array of career paths available and 18% the company’s goals and ethos. For more tips on retaining therapists who have itchy feet, turn to page 111. Meanwhile, keeping your team mentally and physically healthy is also on your mind, which is why almost half of you now get your therapists to perform exercises daily in salon to help prevent RSI and lower back pain.

On the spot

Primark

beauty

What do you think is the most important thing to include on a job description other than salary and responsibilities? 1. Benefits (such as flexible hours, healthcare, travel) 2. Career growth 3. Company goals and ethos 4. Information on company culture

December 2018 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2018 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2017?

63% 27% 10% BETTER

44%

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider

041-044 PBFEB19 Insider.indd 41

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

encourage therapists to perform daily exercises in salon to help prevent RSI Which homecare product do you sell the most of to spray-tanning clients post-treatment? 1. Exfoliator 2. Tan-extending body lotion 3. Body oil with tan-enhancing shimmer 4. Tan remover

SAME

61% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2018 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2017?

40% 46% 14% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Trends

Insider

spa

On the spot

Accessorize

With the spray-tanning market growing year on year, many of you are expanding your treatment menu to offer this service. As a result, your retail sales have risen, with clients investing in exfoliators (50% of you told us this is the most popular post-tan sale), body oils with a tanenhancing shimmer (33%) and tan removers (17%) to prolong their golden glow. Find out what this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top tanning trends are going to be and how to work them into your menu on page 118. Attracting talent to your spa has also been a key focus, which is why a third of you (33%) are showcasing the opportunities for therapists to move up the ladder and develop their skills in your business. Other ways youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re attracting top therapists include rethinking your bonus and commission structures and having a clear company ethos that people can relate to.

What do you think is the most important thing to include on a job description other than salary and responsibilities? 1. Career growth 2. Details on the bonus and commission structure 3. Company goals and ethos

December 2018 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2018 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2017?

50% 33% 17% BETTER

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

encourage therapists to perform daily exercises in spa to help prevent RSI

72% Which homecare product do you sell the most of to spray-tanning clients post-treatment? 1. Exfoliator 2. Body oil with tan-enhancing shimmer

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2018 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2017?

50% BETTER

40%

10% WORSE

SAME

3. Tan remover

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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NEW YEAR NEW CAREER Success doesn’t come to you , you have to make it happen. IS 2019 YOUR YEAR?

hdbrows.com 0113 224 7900 Untitled-100 1

TRAINING LOCATIONS – LEEDS, LONDON, LIVERPOOL, BIRMINGHAM, GLASGOW, BRISTOL, MILTON KEYNES

15/01/2019 10:40

Business Trends

Insider

nails

With news last year revealing that nail enhancements were causing a rise in contact allergies among nail techs in the UK and Ireland, 80% of you now want ingredients such as HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and MMA (methyl methacrylate monomers) banned in products. Meanwhile, CND came out top as the brand that provides the best support for techs via online resources, followed closely by OPI, Gelish and NSI. Making sure your manicure and pedicure area is safe for techs and clients is important, which is why you try to reduce the odour from a nails liquid and powder service using solutions such as ventilation units (47%) and disposable towels for wiping surfaces (26%), as well as telling your team to only pour the monomer out when it’s needed (31%). For the latest nail news, including a first look at the tortoiseshell nail art trend, turn to page 147.

How do you control the odour during a nails liquid and powder service?

Wallis

On the spot

1. Using a ventilation unit 2. Pouring monomer out only when it’s needed 3. Using disposable towels to wipe surfaces 4. Using a lidded bin

think ingredients such as HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and MMA (methyl methacrylate monomers) should be banned

December 2018 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2018 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2017?

59% 33% 8% BETTER

1. CND 3. Gelish 4. NSI METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from January 7–14, regarding business for the month to December 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by spas and salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK

Which brand offers the best online resources for nail techs? 2. OPI

SAME

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2018 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2017?

34% 54% 12% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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COME AND SEE US AT

24 & 25 Feb 2019 ExCeL London

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09/01/2019 13:41 12:07 11/04/2018

Ward’s World

Breaking the RULES

While many clients love the idea of a bespoke service, others want to know exactly what they’re getting. Make sure you know the rules before you break them, writes HELLEN WARD

love the saying, “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist”. It’s particularly pertinent to the beauty industry which, while creative, actually requires a certain amount of procedural protocol. Suppliers and manufacturers issue us with strict guidelines and procedures on their products’ usage, as well as application and prescription. The same applies to the myriad equipment we now find in our treatment rooms. We’ve all seen the horror stories in the papers where clients have reacted severely to a lash glue or brow tint, making allergy alert questionnaires a vital part of every salon’s admin system; adhered to without exception. No wonder medical practitioners are the only people adequately trained to administer certain treatments and the guidelines suggest therapists stick to those that are considered non-invasive.

But here’s the caveat – any good operator needs to know the service inside-out and back to front first. They need to ensure they know exactly how it should be done before tailoring it to make it their own. If they don’t, the client will know, and therapists can’t kid themselves that they won’t. We recently experienced this with a client. She wanted a facial service she’d had countless times all over the world from a particular skincare brand, but the therapist didn’t follow the “normal” procedure (a bit like a chef not following a recipe to the letter), deciding that her take on it was far superior. The trouble was that in this case it wasn’t and of course the client complained. She knew exactly what the facial protocol was and no amount of fudging it was going to convince her that the therapist knew better.

Any good operator needs to know the service inside out and back to front before tailoring it to make it their own

Tailor made When it comes to the core nail, waxing, facial and massage services that many of us provide, we all know an experienced therapist treads a fine line between delivering a treatment that adheres to the manufacturer’s protocol and using their expertise and experience to deviate slightly and get the best results for their customer. So, how can we ensure we’re getting it right? For every client that expects her branded facial to be identical whether she enjoys it in a high-street salon or on holiday, there’s another who wants the therapist to couple that standard service with a little bit of their own magic.

Show your skill My advice? Consult with your client first. Make them feel confident in your expertise before you suggest tweaks that go against the treatment protocol grain. Our clients are ever-more knowledgeable and while some will welcome a bit of personalisation to tailor it to their needs, others prefer to know exactly what they’re getting when they book. Nobody splashing out on a luxury therapy is oblivious to what’s involved, and thinking they are will not only lose their confidence, but their potential spend, too. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for The National Beauty Federation (NBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Ask the Experts

ask

the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

I’d like to extend my waxing services to include manscaping. Where do I start? For anyone looking to increase their male waxing clientele but unsure where to start, don’t panic, you don’t need to dive straight into offering manzilians. The classic back and shoulder wax is a salon staple, but smaller services such as nose and ear waxing, fingers, toes and mid-brows are all quick and popular additions to a treatment menu that can help you tap into the manscaping market. Link-selling these smaller areas is a great way to increase value and attract hesitant customers. For example, include a finger and toe wax as part of your gents’ manicure and pedicure services, or add nostril and ear waxing to the end of facials, wet shaves or haircuts to complete the look and introduce chaps to the magic of your spatula. Remember that many men will have no point of reference and may be feeling nervous before their first wax. Combat this with a list of frequently asked questions on your website, and explain the procedure at every step of the way once he’s on the treatment table itself. When it comes to marketing, waxing is a very visual treatment, so Instagram is the perfect platform for showing off your handiwork to guys. Before-and-after shots and short video clips always get a lot of attention, and help take away some of the mystery for new male customers, too. Online booking is also a big plus for male clients who may be reluctant to

phone or walk into a salon and make an appointment. Be aware that first-time male customers frequently suffer with pimples on the back and chest after waxing, so retail an antibacterial skin wash, lotion or spray to tackle the problem, along with a good scrub or exfoliating wash cloth to help prevent ingrown hairs. For best results, rebook him for four to six weeks’ time and you could have a waxing client for life.

“Wax Daddy” Andy Rouillard is owner of Axiom Bodyworks men’s salon in Basingstoke. See his Hot Waxing Technique seminar on the Professional Beauty Live Stage at Excel on Monday, February 25.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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52 Ask the Experts

How can I get more out of my social media pages? We have been successfully advertising our salon across Facebook and Instagram for many years and are able to leverage a lot of new and repeat business using these platforms. However, to build success, it’s important that you don’t primarily think of social media as a way of advertising your offers. It’s about connecting, networking, reaching out and engaging with people. You need to have a wide range of content that is informative and communicative. Try to add personality within your posts, make sure you link to lots of great content on your website, and if you have salon product, sell it on Facebook. The set up and structure of your salon pages is important. It’s vital that you have as much information about your business as possible, including all forms of contact details, opening hours and so on. Promote and add your services to Facebook to create visibility. Another great feature is to embed the

My spray tan sales were lower than predicted in 2018. What should I do?

Facebook messenger tool within your website. This will give you a new communication channel for customers to contact you directly. Finally, Facebook

If treatment sales seem to be a little lower than expected then it’s perhaps

itself provides a huge number of

time to re-evaluate your strategy. Spray tanning can be a saturated market.

resources online that you can follow

It could be that local competitors are offering a cheaper treatment or

for a more effective and successful

weekly deals.

social media presence, so make sure

However, my advice is don’t go too low in your tanning prices. Firstly,

you explore what’s on offer.

ensure you are offering a premium range with lots of colour options. Fake Bake Professional, for example, has six different solutions and products for all skin tones and occasions. Try to incentivise your tanning treatments instead of discounting. For example, offer tanning as part of a package along with other beauty treatments or perhaps introduce a loyalty system where customers can receive a complimentary tan after a certain number of visits. Also research the local bridal market. It is a huge sector that is growing rapidly when it comes to spray tans. Offer a bespoke natural glow and perhaps approach a bridal business to cross-promote your services. It’s about thinking outside the box to capture an ever-growing market. Don’t forget the expanding appetite for men’s tanning services. Men’s fitness James Harknett is a celebrity tanner and global creative consultant for Fake Bake. See his talk on tailoring your tan for that perfect bespoke glow as part of the How To… seminar programme at PB London.

shoots are an ideal opportunity to master a contouring technique. Take an appropriate course and find out about which parts of the body are going to benefit from

Abigail James is owner of award-winning salon The Boutik in Plymouth. Hear her speak about introducing cruelty-free and vegan products on the Nutrition & Wellness Stage at PB London.

fine layering.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Ask the Experts

A new salon has opened nearby offering similar services. How can I stay competitive? My wife and I used to frequent a local hair salon as the stylist was great at what he did. But over the years, he talked more and more about his problems and it became exhausting to get a haircut. It felt like his personal therapy session. So, when a new salon opened around the corner, we took the leap. We liked the easy manner of the owner. For some visits we sit in silence as he clips away. At others, we spend

How important are sleep habits in achieving good skin? Regular sleep is essential for good health and clear skin. These hours are the most effective time for your liver to cleanse the blood. It is also time

time in deep conversation. Each time, he reads the room and adapts – we see him do it with other clients. We now visit regularly even though there’s a three-month waiting list. Competition brings out the monster

when your cortisol level decreases and the skin receives a much-needed

in us. The worst thing you can do is

boost of oxygen. Cellular regeneration also peaks during this time, which

succumb to the feeling of fear, because

is why you wake-up with a glowing complexion when you sleep well.

fearful states stifle your creative flow.

Sleep deprivation can often lead to a reduction in collagen production

Don’t compete on price or services.

and, as a result, very poor skin elasticity. We also know now that there is

Instead, focus on offering an unrivalled

connection between poor sleep and weight gain. Those who don’t sleep

experience for every customer. Get to

enough have increased hunger and a lower metabolic rate.

know each one and make them feel

It is really important that you make your clients aware of how crucial it is

appreciated, in a mindful way. In a busy

to get a good night’s sleep – aiming for around eight hours per night. During

work environment, stress can cause

your consultation, ask them about their sleeping patterns. Suggest they avoid

you to feel weighed down and make it

spicy food in the evening and also excessive activity. It would be great if they

easier for people to push your buttons.

could make time to slow down in the evening, maybe just a gentle walk and

Learn mindfulness tools and strategies

then a bath with some lavender essential oil. You can also suggest that once

to integrate into your busy days,

they are in bed, they can take few simple and mindful breaths while holding

helping you focus, stay productive

their face in their hands. The room should be fresh and windows curtained

and engage with your clients more.

to keep out the light. I also recommend to clients to avoid Beata Aleksandrowicz is an author and co-founder of the Pure Massage Spa Training Method. See her speak on how to create a signature treatment on the Professional Beauty Live Stage at PB London.

blue light from digital devices for at least an hour before bed and not to take devices into the bedroom. We need darkness to produce enough melatonin to

Anis Qizilbash is a motivational speaker and coach. Discover her tips on everyday mindfulness for busy beauty pros on the Nutrition & Wellness Stage at PB London.

help promote a deep sleep.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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56 Ask the Experts

How can I help clients manage acne-related skin problems? Acne is a very complicated skin condition and there are no formulas that are definitively effective or ineffective for everyone, as there is no one single cause of acne. Therefore, I believe that a holistic approach is the most effective. As a beauty therapist, practitioner of traditional Chinese medicine and naturopathic nutritionist, I recommend and use a wide range of diverse options for treating this complicated condition. Prior to treatment, each client goes through a consultation covering health, lifestyle and skin concerns. I perform manual extractions, either weekly or monthly, and then prescribe Chinese herbs or apply acupuncture to particular meridian channels. After the treatment, I ask further questions to improve my understanding of their skin health and habits. I also advise that clinicians always take pictures

Other than bonuses, how can I incentivise and reward my staff?

of the client’s skin before starting treatment to monitor how and where the breakouts move. When dealing with acne, never

People are attracted and motivated by different things. This can range from

maintain the same treatment if the

the type of culture and environment we offer, to career and development

client doesn’t present any results after

opportunities, to staff perks and rewards. To successfully retain staff, we

the first appointment. Continue trying

must be aware that everyone has different wants and needs.

new tactics until you notice a clear

While fair pay is important, not everyone is driven by money. Some individuals feel rewarded by the number of training opportunities they

result. It’s important to be strict with clients and never give up.

receive and by the amount of time managers spend with them. Beyond bonuses and pay rises, other types of staff incentives (which can be more memorable and lasting) could include perks such as providing discounts on treatments for family and friends in addition to product discounts for staff members and complimentary treatments for the team. Team competitions, birthdays off, gift vouchers, extra holidays, flexible working hours, relocation packages, team away days and other team activities are also successful. Personally, I really love to recognise staff performance with gestures of kindness. For those staff who really go the extra mile or Stefania Rossi is owner of Utopia Beauty and Advanced Skincare in Essex and founder of recruitment company Hidden Talent. See her share top tips for getting your dream job in the Business Skills seminar programme at PB London.

perhaps for employees that complete training successfully, I always make a point of recognising this in staff in meetings by giving them a thank you card or a bunch

Nataliya Robinson is a holistic facialist who practises in London, and founder of Quantum Botanika modern botanical skincare.

of flowers.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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61 Interview

Talking to...

Caroline

Larissey

The chairwoman of the newly formed JCCP sub-group for beauty tells Georgia Seago why she’s made it her mission to fight for therapists in aesthetics

aroline Larissey has a big job on her hands. As

beauty education is what it should be, that it

quality and standards manager at the National

has the rigour.”

Beauty Federation and National Hairdressers’

Arguably, it’s now more than ever that the

Federation (NBF and NHF) and chairwoman

industry needs to demonstrate that rigour at

of the Beauty Aesthetic Special Interest

every turn, in the face of critics from the medical

Committee (BASIC), she is right in the middle

community who believe beauty therapists have

of the aesthetics and beauty debate, fighting

no business performing advanced aesthetic

from all corners to make aesthetic qualifications accessible

treatments such as botulinum toxin and filler

to beauty therapists.

injections under any circumstances. “I’ve always

Having started out in the industry as a hair stylist carrying

been very keen to make sure we have standards

out the odd beauty treatment, Larissey ultimately decided

for botox and filler because that’s key to where

her skills would be better utilised behind the scenes: “I could

we want to be,” says Larissey. “We need to have

see on the salon floor the frustrations that business owners

standards, qualifications and the right training

had over education. Students were coming out of training

groups to be able to do it, because the demand

and into salons where they need to be trained again, but

for those treatments has overtaken proper training

salons struggle because they can’t always afford to do that,”

and education routes.” Larissey has seen aesthetics

she says. “I’ve always had this passion to make sure hair and

infiltrate the traditional beauty space from the >

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Interview

beginning, and was heavily involved in making sure the beauty voice was heard during her time at Habia (Hair and Beauty Industry Authority), where she was head of standards and qualifications. Habia was part of the Health Education England review into qualifications, launched in response to 2014’s Keogh Review into the safety of the aesthetics market following

Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) was set up by

the PIP breast implant scandal. “From that we introduced

Larissey at the request of JCCP chairman David

Advanced Practices National Occupational Standards for

Sines following the council’s decision in August

a lot of the higher-level treatments,” says Larissey. “Right

not to allow beauty therapists on its registers for

from the start we wanted to make sure we

injectables for at least three

had those standards that could underpin

years. BASIC includes

a qualification.”

Change of pace Larissey speaks of past frustrations with the ever-changing education sector, like when she worked for four years on the 14–19 diplomas for hair and beauty, an initiative the Government at the time said

There’s no reason if a therapist is working alongside a medical practitioner why they can’t do these treatments

“was going to radically change education”. “Things changed and the

representatives from Babtac, the Federation of Holistic Therapists (FHT), City & Guilds, Vocational Training Charitable Trust (VTCT) and many more.

Showing proof “He [Sines] wants to make sure there’s a rigorous route so we can go back and present a clear

Government decided that wasn’t what it wanted. Then Habia

argument for why therapists need to be allowed on

was taken over by the Skills Active group, but Government

the registers. I went to all the industry organisations

priorities changed again and they didn’t really recognise the

to form the group because we had no funding or

Sector Skills Councils anymore,” she says.

mechanisms to do it,” explains Larissey. “But the

The back and forth she’s experienced throughout her career

NHF/NBF is happy to support me doing it because

is one of the reasons Larissey wanted to have representatives

it supports the wider industry and their members.

from every industry body and awarding organisation on the

We need to have this – we need to demonstrate that

board of BASIC. The sub-group of the Joint Council for

we can do everything we’re asking for.” Habia will develop the standards for BASIC, and at the time of writing, the National Occupational Standards (NOS) for Beauty Aesthetics were out for review. “Part of the NOS review asks if there are any specific standards that need developing, and I went back and asked why botox and filler weren’t in there, because the Government now recognises that aesthetics is within the beauty pathway with the new Hair, Beauty and Aesthetics T Level – it’s one of the progression routes,” says Larissey. “The Government doesn’t seem to know where it wants to go regarding this, and I think it will need >

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Interview

another review to look at it in detail. The HEE review did it but then it got left and no decisions were made going forward.” Once the standards are approved by the Government, the awarding organisations who are part of BASIC – VTCT and City & Guilds – would then develop them into qualifications. It sounds simple enough, but Larissey admits,

KEY DATES 1991 Larissey enters the industry as a hair stylist and beauty therapist

“it’s not something we’re going to be able to do in one fell swoop, it’s going to be gradual.”

Clear route Larissey is focused on making qualifications for beauty therapists to enter aesthetics a reality so they can be accepted onto the

Therapists would of course have to

1992 Starts lecturing on beauty courses at Rother Valley College, Dinnington, Yorkshire

JCCP’s register, despite the fact that some

carry out botox treatments with clinical

argue the JCCP made it impossible to

oversight, and so Larissey argues,

begin with, because there are currently

“There’s no reason if a therapist is working

no recognised pathways.

alongside a medical practitioner why they

2005 Becomes training manager and director of training and development for Derbyshire Chamber of Commerce

and that’s the biggest stumbling block, but

confusing area at the moment and very

BASIC has already developed a qualifications

worrying for people who are in beauty

and age restrictions document that gives a

and doing aesthetics, because they don’t

clear overview of the academic progression

know what’s going on, with all the back

from a beauty therapist right up to botox and

and forth.” She hopes BASIC will be able

filler,” says Larissey, “and eventually I want to

to cut through the scaremongering from

have a clear path from levels 3, 4, 5 and 6 with

some medics who are against therapists

a suite of qualifications and standards, so a

advancing in the field, especially as ethics

therapist can see their career route mapped

aren’t always adhered to in the medical

out. At the moment, people are going into

community either.

2006 Joins Habia as national diploma project lead for hair and beauty 2013 Takes over the role of head of standards and qualifications at Skills Active 2018 Begins working for the NHF and sister organisation the NBF as quality and standards manager. Forms Beauty Aesthetic Special Interest Committee (BASIC)

“There are no qualifications at the moment

nursing for a couple of years in order to be

can’t do these treatments. It’s a very

“Behind every beauty therapist doing

able to do injectables because it’s the only

botox treatments at the moment, there’s

way, but they never wanted to do nursing in

always a prescriber. So there’s somebody

the first place.”

down the line signing that prescription and that’s a medic. It’s very easy for a doctor to sign a lot of prescriptions for £50 a time,” she says, adding: “There aren’t enough doctors out there to be doing the amount of treatments to meet demand either, but it’s very lucrative for them.” Looking ahead, Larissey plans on building BASIC into the vehicle that will take therapists forward in aesthetics, safely and ethically. “We want that credibility because we know we’re good and we want to prove it,” she says. PB

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Ahead for 2019

With new show features and a fleet of exciting product launches, a visit to PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY LONDON at ExCeL on February 24–25 is the essential place to spot trends for the coming year

rofessional Beauty London is back, with more networking, learning and buying opportunities than ever. New for this year, the Salon & Spa Networking Lunch brings together industry professionals from across the country to share their business challenges and ideas. Meanwhile, the Lash Championships will also make its London debut, bringing a fresh dimension to the competition floor as lash artists battle it out live. If it’s product innovation you’re after, don’t miss the New Brands Showcase, which brings fresh ideas for your salon. Of course, all the major professional brands will also be there, demoing new products and equipment and offering exclusive show-only deals.

SKINCARE AND SPA

Aromatherapy Associates will be on stand E17 with its wide range of oil blends and skincare. Many of its wellness experts will also be on stage at the show, including nutrition specialist Yvonne Wake and sleep expert Dr Neil Stanley. On K62 will be Middle Easterninspired skin and hair care brand Azara Beautique, with products containing camel milk, Arabian mineral water, myrrh, dates and saffron. Italian anti-ageing skincare brand

On stand J35, IIAA brand

B-Selfie will be on H78 with

Advanced Nutrition Programme (ANP) will

its anti-wrinkle and volumising patches for eyes and lips that use dissolving microneedles made from hyaluronic acid.

launch Skin Youth Biome, a probiotic specially formulated for skin health. New skincare brand Aquagem will be on stand W84 with its products made from ingredients found in the Baltic Sea.

On G86, manicure equipment supplier Beaumed Instruments will display its range of nail tools including cuticle nippers, nail clippers, nail art tweezers and foot files.

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Gerrard International will launch a new skincare range from BeautyLab London on R6. The Youth Elixir range with orchid stem cell technology works hard to reactivate clients’ own skin stem cells.

BeautyPro will bring its four brands to the show. Visitors can see sheet masks from Beauty Pro, Barber Pro and Natura; as well as Evanesce coconut oil on K52.

On IIAA stand K36, Environ will showcase its recent skincare solutions to help clients tackle stubborn dark spots, Focus Care Radiance+, as well as its line aimed at breakouts, Focus Care Clarity+. London salon

Biologique Recherche will show professionalonly Le Booster VIP O2 on E54, together with the other products in its anti-pollution line, recommended for depleted and dull skin.

Gentlemen’s Tonic is adding to its product line for 2019 and is offering a 15% discount to all new accounts opened during the show. Visit stand F40.

Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

French skincare brand Caudalie will preview its upcoming launch, Vinoperfect Dark Spot Correcting Glycolic Night Cream, on E46. There will also be facial demos on stand.

On E61, spa equipment manufacturer Gharieni will launch the MLR Select, which offers multiple design possibilities via different bases, lowerable armrests, a heating system and other options. See Dermalogica on J8/K6, with its latest launches including Biolumin-C Serum, a brightening and firming vitamin C serum; and Sound Sleep Cocoon overnight gel-cream.

Elemis will reveal a host of new launches. See new additions to its Superfoods range including a jellytextured exfoliator, two masks and a facial spray – a first ever for Elemis – as well as ProCollagen products including Definition Face & Neck Serum on stand H17/H18.

Visit French skincare brand Guinot on F9 to see its latest facial Lift Summum and learn more about its salon franchising scheme, with experts on hand to talk through the logistics.

Hair Gain will be launched on Q6 by Gerrard International. The nutricosmetic tackles hair thinning and loss with 10 ingredients to promote growth, improve density and boost shine. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

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Herba Slovenica will show its Curry Plant – Immortele collection, featuring curry plantrosehip ointment, for the care of mature skin, on K84. Cosmeceutical brand Image Skincare will have a consultation and retail area offering show-only discounts including up to 40% off a customised opening order as well as free training on stand F6. Immediate Effect Mask, Skin Nova SC Serum and Miracle Boost Essence will all feature on the Juvena Skincare stand, F37. The products contain peptides and stem cell technologies.

The new Night Fix Enzyme Treatment will be available on Murad stand H6, designed for dull, dry and dehydrated skin. Also new is Revitalixir Recovery Serum containing cannabis sativa seed oil to reduce the signs of stress.

NanoAsia is bringing a range of cosmetic products which use an injection-free biorevitalisation, peptide and amino acid formula to rejuvenate skin. The company is looking for distributors in the UK. Check it out on J71.

Natural Senses offers skin and hair care products with Thai herbal ingredients. Natural Body Scrub is the latest launch, enriched with clay and black sesame for dry skin. See it on J72.

Kalahari will be at the show for the first time

On E18, Phytomer

on E25, with its line of cosmeceutical skincare including Ferulic CEB+ Serum, Omega Plus Complex and Alpha Lipoic Complex.

will talk about its new slimming formula LotionP5, which uses a high-level seawater concentrate and laminaria digitata brown algae to target fat cells and boost microcirculation.

Mary Cohr will showcase its new top-tier anti-ageing treatment, the Age Firming Facial, which also has a complementary retail range, on stand F36.

Medik8 will launch The Essential CSA Kit, featuring Daily Radiance Vitamin C (SPF 30), Night Ritual Vitamin A and Surface Radiance Cleanse to give clients a glowing complexion, on stand K5.

On D27, Mila d’Opiz will introduce the Hyaluronic-4 Line, featuring four different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid. Visitors can get 15% off orders placed at the show.

Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

Skincare brand Priori will be on K5 with distributor Skinbrands, showing the new TTC collection, containing the brand’s triple turmeric complex. The seven products have antioxidant, brightening and anti-inflammatory actions. On K61, Sanatio Naturalis will showcase its aromatherapy collection, including the handcrafted, ultrasonic aroma diffuser. Find out how to go about creating your salon’s own signature skincare range on the The Skin Cream Parlour stand, L92. The white-label company will talk visitors through its options. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

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Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

74 DEVICES Visitors can check out 3D-lipo’s latest launch LaserSculpt on N36 – a non-surgical fat-reduction and body-contouring device for use on the abdomen, love handles and flanks.

New from Sothys on E36 is the SS19 make-up collection featuring six new products, including Bronzing Powder, Rose Estival Blush and Ombre eye quartet. Pro-skincare brand QMS Medicosmetics will be offering vistors a 15-minute oxygenating facial on stand F53, as well as the opportunity to win a pop-up treatment room.

The sole distributor of Alma Lasers, ABC Lasers, will showcase the manufacturer’s range of laser, light-based, radiofrequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic applications on L54. Aesthetic devices distributor

Advanced Esthetics Solutions will be on N6 with Shelase, a mixedtechnology laser for medical use. Shelase treats vaginal conditions including stress urinary incontinence and atrophy. Beauty equipment distributor Astrameda will talk visitors through mesoporation device MesoPro on stand L71. The device allows active ingredients to penetrate skin further, reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

Vilana Natural Beauty will be on L77 with its range of all-natural, hand-made cosmetic products.

VOR Organics will be on J83 with its natural range of skincare products containing ingredients such as blueberry and seaweed.

Get to grips with The Baldan Group’s multi-purpose InfraBalden 3.0 equipment on L36, which combines moderate, constant physical activity with infrared radiation to aid weight loss. Medical and aesthetic devices manufacturer Biotec Italia will bring its equipment to N52, including new launches Mesotherm and the Renlive skincare line. Visitors interested in LED can check out the Celluma range of FDA-cleared light therapy devices for acne and wrinkles on the Bio Photas stand, N94. >

Voya is bringing sister company Sea Ór, a premium range of seaweed supplements, to stands F42 and F43. The collection comprises two ranges: Body Cleanse and Hair, Skin and Nails.

Yamuna Professional is selling recent launches including cocoa butter and vitamin E-rich Chocolate Massage Cream and plant-based Lemonbalm and Orange Cinnamon massage oils on F44.

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

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76 On L74, Bitco Med will showcase its non-surgical modular system, Perfecte’me. A Perfecte’Skin Ultimate Facial Treatment machine is included with every purchase of the Perfecte’me System.

BTL will showcase its Unison device on N54. It uses radiofrequency and pressure-wave energies simultaneously to tackle five anatomical causes of cellulite. CACI International will demo its Synergy system on M6, which uses simultaneous photo-electrical delivery combined with facial-toning technology and pulsed LED light stimulation for skin rejuvenation.

LED phototherapy device manufacturer Dermalux will be on N83 with its range of systems for salons and aesthetic clinics, including the TriWave and Tri-Wave Compact. After merging with Syneron Candela last year, Ellipse will showcase its full range of devices on M43, including the multifunctional Nordlys system. Visit E.Mi International on O18 to see its gel polish line, with collections including Hype, which features six daring shades, and the sparkling Celebrity collection.

Meso Lift Pro is the latest launch from Carlton

Professional – a noninvasive machine that combines microcurrent and electroporation to enhance an array of skin conditions. See it on H5. On O85, aesthetic machines manufacturer and distributor Cosmeditech will showcase the Elysion laser hair-removal device with crystal freeze technology, and the Safyre radiofrequency platform. Aesthetic therapists can check out Picosure, the picosecond aesthetic laser from Cynosure, on N72. It delivers ultra-short pulse bursts of energy in trillionths of a second.

A new concept in non-surgical facial treatments, machines brand Endospheres will be talking visitors through the Eva device, with three phases to treat the skin. See it on N68.

Formostar will launch a weight-loss far-infrared body wrap system on H46. It offers a 50-minute treatment for weight, body contouring, pain management, cellulite reduction and skin rejuvenation. Biodermogenesi will launch into the UK on Fusion GT’s stand N60, offering an advanced technique for the treatment of stretchmarks using electromagnetic energy and vacuum technology.

Jett Medical will introduce Déesse will bring an LED phototherapy mask for the professional market to L56. Déesse Pro uses low-level light therapy (LLLT) to expose the skin to five wavelengths of light to stimulate a cellular response.

VinDoc Lab, a training and product company run by Dr Vincent Wong and Jett Medical director Alexandra Cutler. There will also be 10% off the Jett Plasma Pen on N92. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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SEE US ON STAND F18

24 & 25 Feb 2019 ExCeL London

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RE-IGNITE YOUR PASSION FOR SKINCARE AND REALISE WHY 350 UK BUSINESS OWNERS CAN’T BE WRONG. In just 5 years we have joined forces with nearly 350 UK salons, spas and skin care specialists. Find out for yourself how our advanced formulations and luxurious treatment protocols are delivering ‘wow’ results for everyone. For more information please call us on: 01767 68 22 88, or email: info@katherinedanielscosmetics.com The Grange, Beeston Green, Sandy SG19 1PG. www.katherinedanielscosmetics.com

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Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

Distributor The Smart Group will launch Meso Jet – a device that allows therapists to perform needlefree injectable treatments – as well as the Accor LF device. Learn more on M50.

Laser Lipo will exhibit Strawberry Lift on Q67, an aesthetic device that combines class-three lasers with silent ultrasound to lift the face and neck. Lumenis‘s NuEra Tight device, which reduces cellulite, and M22 multi-application platform for the treatment of skin conditions and hair removal will be demoed on M51.

Sterex will be on stand L62 with its new book on basic and advanced blemish removal at Levels 4 and 5, as well as special offers on products.

On O51, Lynton will showcase its new Onda device, a body-contouring and fat-reduction machine that uses Cool Waves technology by Deka.

Opatra will show its Facial Skin Analyser on H35. It helps beauty therapists identify UV damage, age spots, wrinkles, acne, hydration levels and more. Pure Swiss Aesthetics will bring the Byonik pulsed triggered laser skin rejuvenation system and the Byonik Concur anti-pollution and anti-ageing skincare range to M72.

Skyncare’s hairremoval and fatreduction devices, which use laser, IPL and HIFU technologies, will be on M65. Show discounts on devices such as HIFU MediLift will also be on offer.

On stand W37, Studex will have the Studex Plus Ear Piercing System, the Medisept Nose Piercing System and earrings. The company will cover the VAT on all show purchases. On stand O67,

Syneron Candela will bring the VelaShape lll and Ultrashape Power as well as Gentle Max Pro for laser hair removal.

Venus Concept will talk about the Venus Versa device on M43, which offers IPL photo rejuvenation and hair removal, and radiofrequency skin tightening.

The Wellness Tree Group will have the Henshaw Hyperbaric Chamber on show on stand L84. The oxygen therapy chamber is designed for spas or salons. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

80 NAILS, HANDS & FEET Artistic Nail Design will be at the show with distributor Louella Belle on Q18/Q26, launching the Paint My Passion Spring 2019 collection of six shades including purple Guy Meets Gal-lery and soft pink A Muse of My Own. Check out Bio Sculpture’s new nail treatment range Gemini, on O52, containing plant extracts such as aloe vera, lemon and ginseng for natural nail health. All colours in the range match the brand’s gel colours.

Check out Ez Flow ’s six-piece The 90’s Recollection, made up of multi-coloured glitters and brights inspired by the iconic style and flair of the ’90s, on T51.

Flexitol is a first-time exhibitor at PB. Head to J38 to find out about the Flexitol medi-pedi treatment plan and discover show offers and deals. Nail Harmony will have the new Gelish 18G Unplugged High Performance LED Light on stand R18. It’s portable and powered by an LG lithium battery.

Gel-polish brand Bluesky will offer visitors to Q44 exclusive show offers and live demos of its product range, including the Aquacolor Pen for nail art. Nail techs can visit Callus Peel on U51 to learn about the product’s four-step system for easy callus removal in 15 minutes. Be among the first to see Jessica’s spring collection on R6. Tea Party features six pretty pastels including Blueberry Cream, Yellow Meringue and Earl Grey.

Distributor Sweet Squared will bring CND ’s spring collection to Q5, giving visitors a first look at the pastel shades, cool tones and muted neutrals.

Kaga Nails will run show offers on U50, including five bottles of Kaga gel for £20.83; five of Love Easy gel for £20.83 or five QLZ gels for £16.67. Techs can be among the first to see the new collection from Lecenté, which will launch on Sweet Squared stand Q5. Techs can receive 20% off all orders placed with Crystal Nails on stand R67. The brand’s absolute international master educators will be on hand for demos.

Essence Glitter will be on V67 with its range of glitters for make-up and nail art. Special-effect foils and mica powders are also available.

Lily Beau – Madam Glam will bring its range of professional nail supplies to stand R92, including Madam Glam Polygel and lamps, e-files and manicure tools. As well as Artistic and Morgan Taylor,

Louella Belle will show Famous Names products such as IBX, as well as Seche, on stand Q19/Q26.

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Morgan Taylor ’s spring 2019 collection The Colour of Petals will launch on Louella Belle stand Q19/Q26. The six shades include lilac Merci Bouquet, nude I Feel Flower-ful and pink Follow The Petals.

Mygel will launch on T8, a new brand by Mylee comprising more than 113 colours, along with professional-grade base coat and top coats. On T5, Mylee will show a selection of nail products and kits including lamps and gel colours, plus wax kits including heaters, hard wax beads, and more. Techs can check out Apres Nail Products with The Nail & Beauty Link on X1, including the Gel-X extension system.

Nail Harmony will launch Gelish’s SS19 collection The Colour of Petals on R18, inspired by the soft and subtle colours of flowers and including shades such as the peachy Young, Wild & Free-sia and blush-pink Strike A Posie. See the new spring Tokyo collection from OPI on Q17. The 12 limited-edition shades are available in Gel Color, Infinite Shine and Nail Lacquer. Distributor Pro Impressions will be on X60 with equipment for techs including nail files, gel-polish and dip systems, UV lamps and reusable strip lashes. On stand X90, The Unicorn Den will offer its professional-quality nail glitter, chrome flakes and crystals, as well as revealing its new spring glitters. >

DON’T MISS... The New Brand Showcase This year, check out The New Brand Showcase lounge – a segmented section featuring leading industry disruptors. From skincare firsts to wellness concepts, this is your chance to meet with new and niche brands from across the globe that are showcasing their latest innovations. Many will also be hosting champagne receptions on Monday, February 25, to welcome new prospects. •E sthemax – natural-based skincare company with more than 28 years of research behind it. Hero products include Hydrojelly, Jelly and Rubber Masks, and Phyto Cell and Freeze-Dried Atelocollagen Mask • Newton Wood Epsom Salt – the brand’s crystals are made using the highest-grade Epsom salt from sustainable sources, which helps to soothe muscle aches and pains • Scens skincare – the organic and vegan brand’s Nature Parfaite anti-ageing face and body skincare collection is formulated with powerful antioxidants found in nature to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles • Skin Evolution – the

Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

distributor will be showcasing dermatologist-founded cosmetics brand Dr Renaud, which has a range of face and body products and treatments, and Kleraderm, a resultsdriven skincare company founded by Dr Ioannis Apostolopoulos • Terapima International – the manufacturer will be showcasing Disicide, an environmentallyfriendly, hospital grade disinfection product to be used on nail, barber and hairdressing tools •T heravine – results-driven skincare and treatment brand packed with active ingredients, grape derivatives and botanical extracts to balance and brighten skin. Hero products include the Sculpting Neck Volumator and Multi-Perfection4 Eye Cream •T ides Wellness – Dutch brand that uses nourishing self-care rituals and “modern apothecary” in spa and wellness treatments to help heal mind, body and soul.

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

82 LASHES, BROWS & MAKE-UP New Instant Colour Matte Liquid Lipstains, vegan Cream Eyeshadow Glamour Pots and all-in-one concealer, highlighter and contour Foundation sticks will be on Ash Comestics stand U83. Colour and image consultancy Colour Me Beautiful will make its show debut on stand U60, with a range of cruelty-free make-up, tailored for different colour profiles.

Inglot is launching a limited-edition collection in partnership with singer Jennifer Lopez on R36. The J Lo Glow capsule collection includes mascara, lipsticks, eyelashes, blush, eye shadow and bronzers.

Jane Iredale will be on L39 with distributor IIAA, launching its spring collection. Expect warm colours with brand new eyeshadow shades that will help you create natural looks for clients.

German make-up and skincare brand Cosart will be on T60 with its extensive range of products made from organic and natural ingredients. Lash techs can check out the latest launch from. Check out the latest launch from Entod Research Cell on J3. Lashfactor is a nanomolecular polymeric solution for longer, fuller and darker lashes and brows.

Visitors will find new launches from beauty brand Mii on Gerrard Internationalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stand Q6, including Velvet Radiance Face Base in 16 shades.

Plush Beauty, will be on U80, offering a wide range of make-up storage cases and trolleys, as well as synthetic hair extensions, make-up brushes and eyelashes. RLG cosmetics will bring its make-up to S81, offering visitors 20% of all its products, which include matte liquid lipsticks and eyeshadow palettes.

The Eyelash Design Company will debut products including the iRevive collection and a new style of magnetic lashes, the Natalia. Brands Lash Perfect, Hi Brow, Brow Perfect Microblading, Lash FX, Brow FX and tanning brand St Moriz will also be on stand O23/044/N18.

StylPro Makeup On M22, The Eyelash Emporium will be previewing its Pre-Made Fans in mixed lengths and new curls including L Curl and CC Curl. Latest launches Lash Pillow, Hand Palette will also be showcased.

Brush Cleaner and Dryer will be available on Q1. The device uses centrifugal technology to clean and dry brushes in seconds. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24â&#x20AC;&#x201C;25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

84 TANNING & WAXING

Get your hands on Norvell Tanning’s new UVC Cosmo on T6. The solution uses micronutrient technology to deliver a spray tan filled with vitamins and antioxidants to help boost clients’ colour.

Outback Organics will bring a huge range of waxing products to T35. From gold and eucalyptus strip waxes and opal or gold peelable waxes, to the vegan-friendly Cherry Roller wax cartridge.

Visitors can see British waxing brand Ashmira Botanica on W17, with its two shimmering purple waxes and skincare-inspired pre- and post-waxing products. Tanning accessories brand Bliss will bring sunbed lotions to W27, including the Pro Tan for Men and the Partners in Wine bronzer, which features resveratrol.

Professional waxing brand Cirépil by Perron Rigot will be showcasing its newest strip wax product Fiorella on stand T52.

EQUIPMENT & SERVICES

Tanning brand Crazy Angel will be on R17 to talk beauty therapists and mobile tanners through its product range, including the Elite Kit and Strip Tease Tan Eraser.

BC Softwear will show the Supremesoft range, which includes Jumbo Sheets and fitted couch covers, as well as the new size Serenity Treatment Blanket, on E44. Visitors can also enjoy 20% off single-price items. Hive of Beauty will bring its waxing products to R23. Hive also has a range of lash and brow products including tints and will show its latest lash range LashLift.

To celebrate 30 years of Jordan Fitness, the brand will launch a three-in-one HIIT Bench – bench, plyobox and storage solution – on C53. It joins the brand’s newly designed free-weights that can be personalised with a spa’s colours. >

Sweet Squared will introduce Lashus on stand Q5, a 45-minute lash-lift treatment to give a dramatic boost to lashes, including a lower, as well as upper, lash tint.

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

88 London College of Beauty Therapy (LCBT) will be on J4. The beauty, make-up and fitness training provider works with employers to ensure courses are designed for careers.

On F2, salon and spa equipment brand PJS Direct will offer discounts between 10% to 25% off list price as well as no-obligation quotes. On U79, 3 Pro Surgical will retail a wide range of tools, including cuticle nippers, eye brow tweezers and manicure tools.

Proto-col will unveil its new look alongside a selection of collagen skincare, nutraceuticals and natural nutrition. The company will also bring podiatryled medi-pedi brand Forbes Feet to L57. The Lucy Jayne Makeup Academy will be on S67 promoting its accredited masterclasses, demoing the looks students can create and offering 10% off any course booked at the show.

REM will bring its high-end spa furniture to L18, including the Palermo couch, which can be finished in more than 20 different fabric and laminate finishes, and the Aragon, available in two wood finishes.

Majestic Towels, on stand E2/F2, is launching a new colourway for its standard towel range, silver grey. Visitors can also get a 10% discount on the entire range. Major fitness brand Matrix will be back, demoing its wellness-focused fitness equipment, including the MX4 Traning System, which includes Matrix equipment and original turnkey programming, perfect for the club environment. Find out more on D62.

Mundial/Impala will exhibit its full range of supplies, including barber razors, scissors, manicure sets, tweezers and nail nippers, on J54. The National Beauty Federation (NBF) will be offering exclusive discounts off its membership packages and health and safety toolkits on Q58.

Salonicide will be on X47, offering a discount on its Family Starter Kit, making it £25, down from £38.95. The company will also cover the cost of VAT on all products.

Scissor Genius will be on X28 with a range of exclusive deals such as a free scissor wallet with the purchase of two pairs of scissors and a 20% student discount. See Smilebright demo its new Express White system on Q75, with 50% off. It will also have 50% off vegan coconut whitening powder. A range of Teal hot water basins for beauty services will be demoed on W1, including fully portable options, free of fixed plumbing. PB

Phorest Salon Software will be showcasing the redesign of its Email Marketing Editor with new features including your own writing mentor on O36.

Professional Beauty London takes place on February 24–25 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

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WHERE

wellness

MEANS BUSINESS

World Spa & Wellness Convention

The World Spa & Wellness Convention is back with a brand new format and more than 50 top-name speakers. Here are just a few of the trends you can hear about in London in February

he World Spa & Wellness Convention is returning to London ExCeL on February 24–25, bringing you the latest facts, figures and trends set to impact your spa operation in the coming year. The programme has been redesigned with two core streams – Stream A: The business of spa, providing solutions to help operators tackle issues; and Stream 1: Wellness, which focuses on improving outcomes for clients as a key to customer acquisition and retention. Also new are the “Situation Rooms”, which focus on solving real business challenges. Delegates can join roundtables with experts dealing with the same issues. Here are three key trends at the convention…

New wellness KPIs In the “What are investors really looking for when it comes to wellness, spa and beauty investments?” session on Monday, February 25, panellists will discuss how to attract investors in a competitive market. “I intend to challenge the methods of measuring success in the current financial models that have been based on hospitality accounting, asking, ‘are they still relevant and fair in the measurement of wellness service providers?’,” explains panellist Andrew Gibson of Sensei Private Equity, formerly director of spa at Accor Group. He will be joined by Tim Leach, managing director of investor Baylor Klein, and Paria Ghorashi Rafi, founder of BGX – Blow Out & Go.

Fitness gets personal Kent Richards, corporate director of operations at Six Senses, will be discussing this issue in the “Vitality and movement – integrating fitness into your business

model” panel on Sunday, February 24. “Fitness is an important dimension of wellness and joins spas and many other elements to form what is now a US$4 trillion global wellness industry,” says Richards. “Some spas have great fitness facilities but many need to provide more varied and personalised offerings.” Richards and panellists Thomas Klein, president and chief operating officer at Canyon Ranch, and Donna Cyrus, president of Cyrus Fit, will focus on the challenges of combining the two.

Looking outside for inspiration Ira Malik, group spa director at Minor Hotels, is one of three experts chairing the “Managing a strategic turnaround” Situation Room on Monday, February 25. “Identifying early warning signs through a combination of rigorous analytics and understanding of macro indicators is critical,” says Malik. She says spas could learn from other industries, citing fast-food chain McDonald’s as an example: “It introduces new items for a limited time to create a talking point and attract guests to try.”

Hear from these speakers and many more at the World Spa & Wellness Convention 2019 at ExCeL London on February 24–25. Two-day ticket: £247+VAT; one-day ticket: £165+VAT. Book online at worldspawellness.com/convention

With thanks to our sponsors

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Salon and Spa Networking Lunch

Sharing Solutions

The SALON AND SPA NETWORKING LUNCH at Professional Beauty London provides a unique opportunity to share real-life business challenges with other professionals

he Salon and Spa Networking Lunch will make its London debut on Sunday, February 24, at ExCeL. Following the huge success of the launch event in Manchester in October, the lunch will see salon and spa directors, as well as managers and individual practitioners, come together to share real-life solutions to the challenges they are facing in their businesses. The Manchester lunch was praised by attendees for its informal, chatty format, which made ideas sharing easy. The interactive roundtable format gives all participants a chance to get involved and discuss their own challenges. There will be several table discussions on topics ranging from improving retail sales to creating a USP for your business. Each will be led by an experienced salon or spa owner who will invite input from everyone involved, meaning attendees get a rare opportunity to get personal guidance on the problems they are facing in their salons right now. Michelle Quimby, owner of Body Contour Beauty in Tameside, attended the October event in Manchester and says, “The networking lunch held by PB will be the best three hours you can invest for your beauty business. You’ll get advice, meet new industry connections and share challenges – someone around the table will have a solution. All this, with an amazing lunch and bubbles supplied.” The discussions will be divided into individual tables focusing on the following topics:

Staff recruitment and retention – recruiting and retaining the best talent Retention marketing to improve customer loyalty Retailing – tried and true retail strategies to increase revenue How to differentiate from the competition – how to respond to cut-price rivals Operations and finance - mastering your P&L and boosting your profits Attendees can participate in two of the above discussions (choosing their favourite topics when registering). Some great names are confirmed to lead the discussions, including Stefania Rossi, salon owner and founder of recruitment platform Hidden Talent, Susan Routledge, salon business consultant, and Sara Shoemark, owner of Glow Beauty.

The networking lunch will be the best three hours you can invest for your beauty business

Agenda 12pm Arrival and welcome 12.30pm Round table session 1 1.15pm Lunch 1.45pm Round table session 2 2.30pm Champagne reception The event will conclude with a champagne reception – a chance to swap details with the new contacts you’ve made and pick up a goody bag from the event sponsors. PB

The Salon and Spa Networking Lunch will take place as part of Professional Beauty London at ExCeL. Tickets cost £25 + VAT including lunch and a champagne reception. Places are limited so make sure to secure yours online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

Listen

AND

LEARN

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY LONDON offers more than great shopping opportunities. Make the most of your visit by attending some of the equally inspirational and practical educational events

LIVE STAGES Professional Beauty London prides itself on the abundance of learning and networking opportunities on offer at the show, with key industry experts taking to the stage to share tips and experiences with visitors.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY LIVE STAGE Trends, tips and trade secrets will be revealed on the PB Live Stage, designed to provide a skills top-up to visitors from the comfort of their chair. Make-up, tanning, nails, massage, skincare, waxing and lashes are all covered on this line-up.

DON’T MISS: Hot stuff: stripless waxing laid bare – Monday, 2pm “Wax Daddy” Andy Rouillard of Axiom Wax Academy will lead this interactive session with Sam Marshall, waxing expert and owner of The Beauty Guru. Discover how to get the most out of your peelable wax, plus get plenty of profit-boosting tips and tricks to take back to the treatment room.

DON’T MISS: The evolution of qualifications in advanced aesthetics – Sunday, 2pm Get up to speed on the latest developments in aesthetics qualifications for beauty therapists in this session from Dr Elizabeth Raymond Brown, training and education consultant and founder of Laser Education. Brown will explore some of the toughest challenges facing the sector and how to ensure therapists can best equip themselves with the required skill set to provide the very highest standard of treatment.

ADVANCED TREATMENTS STAGE Sponsored by Babtac, this programme is put together for therapists and salon owners looking to expand into offering more aesthetic treatments and improve their working knowledge of some of the latest technologies, from peels to semi-permanent make-up and plasma. STAGE SPONSORED BY:

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

WARPAINT STAGE This stage will educate MUAs on everything from camouflage to knowing how much you should charge for your work, brought to you by some of the most renowned artists in the business. The world of vegan and “free from” make-up will also be explored.

DON’T MISS: Perfect skin: nailing the basics – Sunday, 4pm Preparation is the key to success, and creating the perfect base can make all the difference in the longevity and professional finish of your look. This session will be full of tips and tricks to give you the edge.

NUTRITION & WELLNESS STAGE This programme explores an inside-out approach to beauty, sharing teachings both to pass on to clients and for beauty pros to adopt for a healthier life. Learn about mindfulness, energy-based therapies and how nutrition affects wellbeing.

DON’T MISS: Build your confidence and achieve your goals – Sunday, 4pm Do you struggle with self-belief, or maybe imposter syndrome? Perhaps you lack motivation, or wish to feel less overwhelmed with achieving your goals? Join Clare Cockell, owner of The Reef salon in Kent, for this session and give yourself a boost of encouragement to help you grow and plan ahead.

SEMINARS This year, the seminar offering features a new line-up dedicated specifically to helping salon owners and freelancers hone their digital skills to take their businesses to the next level. Also new is the one-day Nail Skills programme of sessions for techs at every stage of their career.

HOW TO… A programme of detailed demonstrations to help therapists brush up on timeless treatments, this line-up will dissect bread-and-butter services such as the perfect spray tan and speediest wax.

DON’T MISS: Tailoring your tan for that perfect bespoke glow – Sunday, 11am James Harknett, global creative consultant at Fake Bake, will be talking about building your tanning business and tailoring tans for the ever-growing bridal and male markets, followed by a live demo showing you how to achieve a perfect bespoke glow with Fake Bake, plus an interactive Q&A session.

DIGITAL SKILLS With the growing importance of digital platforms in shaping consumer behaviour, these sessions will take a deeper look at how the various channels can help your business stand out from the crowd.

DON’T MISS: Using digital tools to grow your nail salon – Sunday, 11am Sharmadean Reid, founder of Wah Nails and bookings app Beautystack, is constantly looking for ways to push the salon experience further through technology. She will share her advice on using digital tools such as social media to enhance and grow your nail salon.

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he nt ”

Professional Beauty at ExCeL London

100 BUSINESS SKILLS This programme hosts speakers from all corners of the industry, bringing you advice on everything from transforming your retailing to building your client base.

DON’T MISS: Making the leap from beauty salon to aesthetic clinic – Monday, 3pm Dr Vincent Wong, aesthetic doctor and director of VINDOC Lab, will be sharing his knowledge on a simple path to help take your beauty salon to the next level as an aesthetic clinic, telling you how to keep up with the times and grow your client base with new high-revenue treatments.

NAIL SKILLS Develop your know-how as a nail tech with this new progamme, featuring sessions on in-depth nail techniques, how competitions can help your career and what it takes to be a tech to the stars.

DON’T MISS: How to become a nail tech for celebrities – Monday, 3pm

CONFERENCES IMF Taking place alongside PB London, the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) is a key platform for manufacturers, brand owners and distributors to discuss the challenges facing their businesses. Big industry names including Marie-Laure Simonin Braun, chief executive of Payot; Sacha Mitic, founder of hair care brand Sacha Juan; and Claire Vero, chief executive of Aurelia Skincare, will share their experiences on the speaker programme; while the forum is a great opportunity to make valuable contacts from across the globe to take your business to the next level. SPONSORED BY:

A one-day ticket costs £145+VAT, two-day ticket £195+VAT. Book at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/IMF

EDUCATION FORUM

Get expert business advice one-on-one in these 90-minute workshops with beauty business strategist Adam Chatterley of Salon Business Secrets. Arrive with a businessrelated problem and leave with a plan that will get the results you want. There will be three workshops focused on attracting more clients, quick business-boosting tips and pricing for maximum profit.

The popular Education Forum is back again, with the aim of raising industry standards and preparing our future beauty workforce right from the start. Lecturers can hear from top employers about skills they want to see in young therapists emerging into the industry, as well as representatives from educational organisations about the developments affecting the sector. This year, speakers include experienced salon owners Sara Shoemark of Glow Salons and Maria Mason of Beauty Time, as well as Taffryn Ellis, spa director at Four Seasons London.

IN ASSOCIATION WITH:

Live Stages and Seminars cost £5 per session, or £1 for students. Exec Club and Luxe Pass delegates get a 50% discount. Business workshops cost £15 each. Book at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/seminars

A full-day ticket costs £10. Book at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/educationforum

Karen Louise Embury, a session tech, celebrity nail artist and Salon System Gellux expert, will lead this seminar on what’s required from a nail tech when dealing with celebrities, and how to get into this line of work.

BUSINESS WORKSHOPS

SPONSORED BY

pro_beauty01

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Skincare

133

Nature’s

NECTAR

Is the buzz around CBD oil in beauty products justified, or all hype? GEORGIA SEAGO finds out

ou’ve probably already heard a lot about CBD oil in beauty, and if you haven’t, expect clients to start asking questions soon. Cannabidiol (CBD) oil comes from the cannabis sativa plant but doesn’t have any psychoactive properties, so is fully legal in the UK. The difference between CBD and cannabis as a drug lies in the strain of the plant it is extracted from – hemp or marijuana. While the marijuana plant contains very high levels of THC (the psychoactive compound that gets weed users “high”), alongside cannabidiol, hemp generally contains less than 0.3%, making it a safe source of THC-free CBD. In beauty, CBD oil is being used for its soothing and antioxidant properties, making it an appealing plant-based alternative for all manner of consumers, be they concerned about skin sensitivity, lines and wrinkles, or the effects of pollution on the skin. “The benefits of CBD oil are still relatively unknown to the average client, although we’re slowly seeing awareness influencing demand,” says Kirsten Maine, co-director of Live True, which has several hair and beauty salons across London and started offering a CBD facial in January. >

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Skincare

134 The treatment uses CBD oil-infused products from MGC Derma, a high-end skincare brand that grows hemp in Europe and has a comprehensive range of CBD products, which are used alongside peptides and stem cells in a full facial protocol. “We designed a facial that incorporates the oil at every stage so that clients can truly benefit from the active ingredient,” says Maine.

Green fingers Another early adopter of CBD products was London-based aesthetic clinic The Harley Street Skin Clinic, which began its own case studies into the effects of CBD on the skin after becoming aware of the ingredient as an anxiety suppressant. “We always conduct an efficacy trial for a minimum of six months with any ingredient new to the menu, and we tested both CBD cream and topical oil for skin concerns such as rosacea, psoriasis and eczema,” explains co-founder Lesley Reynolds. The clinic’s CBD facial combines machine-based technology with massage and products from Dutch brand Maripharm, which has 20 years of research into CBD behind it. Interestingly, the treatment begins with the therapist administering a drop of pure CBD oil orally “to aid relaxation, reduce anxiety, calm tight muscles and gently alleviate pain, should it exist”, Reynolds explains, adding, “We do insist that clients either check with their own physician or have a consultation with one of the clinic doctors beforehand to ensure there is absolutely no anticipated interaction with existing medications or conditions, however tenuous the risk.”

CBD’s plant-based, vegan credentials make it a timely addition to treatment menus, likely to strike a chord with clients who lead eco or health-conscious lifestyles, as well as those who want to explore natural anti-ageing ingredients before turning to more advanced procedures. “We were surprised by how popular the facial is with such a wide cross-section of clients. While it certainly has age-defying and calming properties that might appeal to some clients, the skin-brightening and plant-based origins of the CBD oil appeal to others,” says Maine. Meanwhile, The Harley Street Skin Clinic has seen the highest uptake from clients wanting help to combat lifestyle stress and the skin challenges that come with living in the city. “CBD soothes skin that is affected by pollution, emotional stress, a bad diet, smoking and alcohol… it’s a potential leveller to combat lifestyle and environment issues,” says Reynolds, “and the proven antiinflammatory properties of CBD oil can help with healing, whether skin is red, dry or irritated.”

Product potential It’s not just salons that are recognising the part CBD oil can play in tackling clients’ pollutionravaged skin. Murad was one of the first professional skincare brands to tap into the cannabis beauty trend with its Revitalixir Recovery Serum. The serum contains cannabis sativa seed oil, which, while not a source of cannabidiol, is derived from the seeds of the hemp plant and is rich in omega fatty acids that can easily penetrate the skin. “We are leveraging cannabis sativa seed oil for its barrier lipid replenishment abilities,” explains Kristen Robinson, senior director of product development at Murad. “Because hemp seed oil supports resilience in the skin barrier, it works very well with the key technologies used in Revitalixir to relax the look of expression lines, and boost hydration, refining texture and soothing the skin.” PB

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Skincare

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Murad Revitalixir Recovery Serum blends anti-ageing neuropeptides with cannabis sativa seed oil, a vegan source of omega 3, 6 and 9, to help relax lines and wrinkles. The ingredients are contained in “active spheres” with a gel outer, offering three spheres per pump and more than 130 applications in each bottle, according to the brand. Murad says the serum also works on dryness, dehydration, eye puffiness and dark circles. Trade: £37.92 for 40ml 0844 472 7050 murad.co.uk

Margaret Dabbs Intensive Anti-Ageing Hand Serum draws on cannabis sativa seed extract to help restore elasticity and tackle crêpiness and age spots on the hands. Vitamin E helps fight free radicals in pollutants and other environmental aggressors, while emu oil supports the CBD extract in fortifying the skin’s fabric. RRP: £30 for 30ml 020 7486 9273 margaretdabbs.co.uk

Hempz Aromabody is a threeproduct collection of blueberry, lavender and chamomileinfused products that also contain hemp seed oil. In the line are Herbal Relaxing Bath Salts, Body Moisturiser, and Day and Night Softening Body Silk. The brand uses 100% organic hemp seed oil, rich in essential fatty acids and chosen for its skinnourishing properties. Trade: from £3.75 for the 65ml moisturiser 020 8498 7279 (JK Group) hempzbeauty.com

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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16/01/2019 10:42

Run your schedule, staff, clients, sales and reports with the most beautiful salon & spa software for your business. Talk to us at Professional Beauty London, stand W15.

G E T T I M E LY. C O M

PB and WSW Awards 2019

137

It’s party TIME

The industry’s best will come together in London for the PB and WSW Awards 2019. Make sure you’re there to form new connections and celebrate excellence

oin the industry’s leading international businesses for the Professional Beauty and World Spa & Wellness Awards 2019. This year’s event will be held at Grade II-listed venue The Brewery in London, where more than 700 professionals will come together to celebrate excellence in customer service, treatment delivery, and business innovation. The PB shortlist includes names such as Pennyhill Park, Hoar Cross Hall, Seaham Hall Serenity Spa, Eden Hall, Gaia Spa, nkd ( ), Zen Lifestyle and Saks. Meanwhile, World Spa & Wellness finalists in attendance will include impressive destinations such as Canyon Ranch, Como Shambhala, Kamalaya and Lefay, as well as major hotel groups like Four Seasons, Rosewood and Fairmont.

The big night is the culmination of an in-depth judging process, which sees mystery shoppers visit every property to ensure it is at the top of its game. Their reports are shared with a panel of esteemed industry experts, all of whom have operated spa or beauty businesses. Meanwhile, finalists in the individual categories attend a judging day to be interviewed and carry out treatments under controlled conditions, meaning the winners in all categories will be truly deserving of their trophies. Places are limited and last year’s event sold out so make sure you secure your place and join us to network and celebrate with the best in the industry. The Awards take place on Sunday, February 24, at The Brewery, London. Tickets cost £149+VAT or £1,490+VAT for a table of 10. Secure your place at professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbawards PB

With thanks to our sponsors:

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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16/01/2019 10:06

1 Who’s proto-col?

We are an innovative British brand specialising in collagen supplement technology for 15 years.

2 What is collagen?

Collagen is the primary structural protein found in all human beings. As you age, you lose approximately 1.5% of collagen every year from the early to mid 20s.

3 Why do we need collagen? By the time you are 45, you have lost approximately 30% of your body’s collagen. Loss of collagen affects the skin’s firmness and suppleness.

4 What makes proto-col collagen unique? Proto-col’s professional-grade collagen drinks use formulations that have been proven to repair and restore collagen levels.

5 What are the visible results?

Based on two independent studies involving a total of 177 women aged between 35-65 for 8 weeks: 65% increase in Type I collagen (fibril production). 45% increase in skin hydration. 30% (up to) increase in skin elasticity. 20% reduction in wrinkle volume.

Before and After

Independent clinical studies.

Clients can notice improvements on their skin in as little as 30 days. More pronounced results after 56 days.

E: info@proto-col.com

Become a stockist. T: 0333 000 7788 W: trade.proto-col.com

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16/01/2019 11:25

Therapist Exercises

139

Fighting FIT

Repetitive strain injury and lower back pain are common workplace injuries for therapists but easily preventable with the right know-how. Pilates teacher Kerry Beavis demonstrates four exercises that will keep your staff in tip-top shape

epetitive strain injury (RSI) and back pain are usually caused by overuse of certain muscles and joints – for example, by doing massage treatments back to back. Kerry Beavis, Pilates teacher, owner of home-based salon The Revive Company and Professional Beauty’s Therapist of the Year 2016, recommends four exercises that therapists should be doing daily to help prevent symptoms occurring.

“If you don’t look after your posture then later down the line you’re going to have problems,” explains Beavis. “If you can get into the habit of doing these exercises every day then you will really feel the benefit of stretching your core, wrists, hands and the back of your body.”

EXERCISE ONE: hand strength and stretch 1. With your left hand spread out wide and facing the ceiling, press your index finger and thumb together and hold for a slow count of five, pressing as firmly as possible 2. Release and stretch your fingers out wide into a star shape

BEAVIS SAYS… “This exercise is brilliant for strengthening your hands and preventing RSI”

3. Next, press your thumb and middle finger together and squeeze for five seconds, before releasing and stretching 4. Repeat this on your ring and little finger, making sure to press your thumb against each for a count of five 5. Perform this exercise as often as you can throughout the day.

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Therapist Exercises

140 EXERCISE TWO: wrist curls 1. Hold a light weight in your left hand with your wrist facing the ceiling. If you don’t have an exercise weight at home, a bottle of water or tin of beans would work just as well 2. Make sure your hand and forearm are flush to one another at a 90-degree angle, with your right hand placed under your forearm for support 3. Flex your wrist, bringing your fingers up towards your arm and then release, bringing your wrist back to that flush angle

BEAVIS SAYS… “Perform this exercise every day and it will really strengthen your wrists and forearms”

4. Repeat this seven times and then move the weight to your right hand, performing another seven. If you get any pain, stop immediately or reduce your range of movement 5. Put the weight back in your left hand but turn it around so that your palm is facing the floor. Next, flex your wrist up, bringing your knuckles up to your forearm 6. Do this seven times and then repeat on your other hand.

EXERCISE THREE: the roll down 1. Start in a standing position with your feet hip-width apart. Your toes should be facing forward 2. Roll your shoulders back, drawing your naval in towards your spine so that the muscles around your mid-section are engaged, as these are vital for supporting your lower back

BEAVIS SAYS… “Regularly stretching out your posterior chain will enable your spine to be more flexible”

3. Breathe in and, as you exhale, nod your chin to your chest and start rolling your body down bone by bone, letting your arms hang freely. Reach down as far as you can 4. When you’re at the bottom, take a deep breath. As you exhale, restack bone by bone to your original standing position 5. Repeat seven times for the best results.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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16/01/2019 10:09

THE WORLDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FIRST HIGH POWERED SIMULTANEOUS HAIR REMOVAL DEVICE

Treats light and dark skin types Can be optimized for all skin types, all hair colours and hair thicknesses Call Neil now to arrange a demo: 020 8965 2594. info@inmodemd.co.uk

Therapist Exercises

142

EXERCISE FOUR: the leg slide 1. Lie on the floor with your knees bent and hip-width apart. Feel the length through your spine, sending the crown of your head away from your tail bone 2. Press your shoulder blades into the floor but don’t squeeze your bum cheeks or thighs. It’s a case of using your abdominal muscles to press your back into place

BEAVIS SAYS… “This exercise will strengthen your core without jeopardising your lower back”

3. Place your fingertips on the inside of your hip bones, drawing in your naval so you can engage those core muscles 4. Breathe in, and as you exhale, slide your right leg away from your body. When it’s fully extended, your leg should feel weightless 5. Then, slide your leg back up to the starting position. Repeat this movement seven times on each leg.

WATCH IT NOW See Beavis demonstrate these fitness tips and explain the benefits in our “4 RSI and back pain prevention exercises” video on PBTV. Watch it at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbtv

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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16/01/2019 10:10

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10/01/2019 09:40

Salon & Spa Networking Lunch 24th February 2019, ExCeL London

Join fellow salon and spa professionals to discuss business challenges and solutions with industry experts and successful business owners sharing their real world experiences and knowledge. Taking place as part of:

Key topics:

Recruiting and retaining the best talent Retailing strategies to increase revenue Marketing to improve customer retention How to respond to low cost competition Operation & finance - mastering P&L and boosting profits

BOOK TICKETS: Networking lunch: ÂŁ25 + VAT

Book your ticket at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/networking 7359 Spa Networking Lunch EXCEL19 Janury.indd 1

13/12/2018 11:03

Staff Strategy

145

Ring in

THE CHANGES Several changes to employment law have been proposed by the Government. DAVID WRIGHT explains how these will impact salon and salon and spa owners

t’s been many years since the Government has made any significant changes to employment law. Following the publication of the Taylor Report, which investigated the increasing use, and in some cases abuse, of practices such as zero-hour contracts, agency working and self-employment, initially it looked likely there would be legislation to ban zero-hour contracts and severely restrict agency use. However, the report also revealed that casual and zero-hour arrangements are often used positively by both employers and employees, so the Government is now proposing to tighten up the rules rather than outlaw the practice. The Government published “The Good Work Plan” in December 2018. The statutory instruments to turn the proposals into law were published the day after so you might hear of the “Employment Rights Amendment Regulations 2018”.

Key proposals Currently, employees must have either a contract or statement of particulars within two months of taking up a post. It is proposed that by April 2020 employees will be entitled to know the main terms of their employment on day one. The list of items to be included in the document has been extended to include details of family leave, any probationary period, pay entitlements and all remuneration (not just pay). Interestingly, the right is extended to agency and zero-hour workers as well as employees. Currently, where staff have a break in service of one week, it’s viewed as a break in their continuous service. Many employment rights are based on length of service so using a one-week break can exclude staff, particularly zero-hour employees, from some rights. The proposal is that the length of the break will be increased to four weeks. There is another proposal that the calculation of

holiday pay will change in cases where employees have variable hours. Currently, if an employee is casual, when they take a week’s holiday they are paid based on their average hours over the past 12 weeks. The proposal is the calculation will be based on the previous 52 weeks (or number of weeks worked if less than 52).

Clearer rules There will also be legislation to streamline employment status tests. Currently, an employment tribunal can decide if someone is an employee or a worker for employment purposes, whereas HMRC has a different test for tax assessment. The intention is that there will be a single assessment for both to reduce confusion as to whether someone is self-employed. There will be a ban on employers making deductions from staff tips, and employers who don’t pay employment tribunal awards can be named and shamed. After 26 weeks, an employee will be able to request a fixed working pattern or more regular hours. There is little detail of what happens if the request is refused. Changes will also come to the way agency workers are paid. After 12 weeks working for an employer, they are entitled to the same pay and conditions as permanent staff. However, an act known as Swedish Derogation allows the worker’s contract to remain with the agency rather than the host employer, meaning the rule can be sidestepped. The Government plans to abolish Swedish Derogation by April 2020. Of course, we’ll have to wait and see what the eventual legislation looks like but quite a few of these changes will directly impact salons. PB

David Wright is a consultant in all aspects of employment practice and law. He is the main employment law consultant for Habia and provides a personalised support service for UK salons. Tel: 01302 563691 davidwrightpersonnel.co.uk

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16/01/2019 10:11

PROFESSIONAL

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15/01/2019 14:48

147 Nail News

Gift of nails Instagram/@enchantednailsbykellie

Following her mother’s cancer diagnosis, kindhearted nail tech Kellie Underwood launched an initiative to help those affected by illness. Underwood, who runs Enchanted Nails By Kellie in Bicester, Oxfordshire, is providing one free gel-polish manicure per month to someone going through serious illness. Now, other technicians following the hashtag #giftofnails have been inspired to do the same, pledging their support via social media. Treatments are open to nomination and Underwood will also extend the free service to families of illness sufferers.

NAIL BITES Tortoiseshell nails take over, free manicures are offered for the needy, and a new business owner gives advice WILD THING Leopard and zebra print were both massive last season and consumer appetite for all things animal shows no sign of abating. Tortoiseshell has now made its way into the fashion and beauty arena and, following a fad for tortoiseshell hair, a brunette colour with honey, caramel, and copper hues, the pretty pattern is now appearing on nails all over Instagram. Get ready for requests from

Catherine Lawson, new business owner of Catherine Lawson Do My Nails, Colne, Lancashire

I started out as a mobile tech but I managed to build a name for myself quite quickly and soon got to the stage where I had to turn work away, partially due to the travel time in between clients. So, when the opportunity came along to rent a shop, I took it. This has now evolved into my salon, which launched in October 2018.

Instagram/@nailbrew

It’s early days but I already plan to expand. In the near future I’d like to take on an apprentice.

Instagram/@sohotrightnail

Instagram/@nailthoughts

Instagram/@socalinaildesign

your clients.

5 minutes with

I think it is really import to link with local colleges. My old tutor has been keen to stay in touch and has asked me to speak at open days. I also offer work experience for budding nail techs from the college. I’m in the process of creating my own-label products although this is low key at the moment and will be kept separate from the salon. I don’t offer web bookings because I prefer to deal with clients direct, and I love interacting with them. My clients come from all walks of life and even include a celebrity who lives locally. They all get the same high standard of service. catherinedomynails @catherinedomynails

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Nail News

148

SALON SPOTLIGHT Studio, Home of Nails and Beauty, Bangor, North Wales Opened: May 2017 Techs: Four, and one apprentice Interior design vibe: “Downstairs is fresh and vibrant with a girly, vintage style. Our ’50s-style tin posters are always a fun talking point with new clients. Recent extensions to our upstairs area have allowed us to offer more relaxing treatments so this section has more of a calming, softer colour scheme.” USP: “We strive to create a ‘home away from home’ experience, where clients can feel really comfortable being themselves and not feel any pressure to behave in a certain way. We are a team full of personality and we are there for all our customers’ needs. That’s why we were so proud to pick up the best customer experience award in the Welsh Hair and Beauty awards on the anniversary of our first year of opening.” Bookings: “Our clients can book via phone, Facebook or Instagram. We are also working closely with a team to develop an innovative beauty app, coming out in the next year.” Typical client: “We are based in the heart of a university city and close to the local hospitals so many of our clients are students and staff of the university, as well as doctors and nurses.”

Most popular treatment: “Acrylic extensions, closely followed by gel polish.” Most popular colour: “We have more than 250 colours and effects so that’s a tough one, but I would probably say Rose Gold Sparkle gel polish by Halo. It’s beautiful on its own and also complements most colours as an accent nail.” Future plans: “We have lots in store for the upcoming year. We have many new training and skill-building courses to look forward to, as well as developing our new skincare specialist menu, which we have been working on since completing our upstairs space. We are always keeping a close eye on the latest trends in nails and beauty, so look forward to seeing what we can bring to our clients next.” Nicola Hagerty is owner of Studio, Home of Nails and Beauty, Bangor, North Wales studiobeautybangor

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Pathways to success Level 5 Qualifications

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Smarter support for brighter futures www.vtct.org.uk

150 Treatment News

Germaine de Capuccini Dermatech Pen Available from February, the new Dermatech Pen is an automatic microneedling device which employs 36 disposable needle cartridges to induce collagen, regenerate skin and allow for better absorption of active ingredients. The 90-minute treatment commences with a cleanse and deep exfoliation using lactobionic acid, one of the new generation of AHAs that possess enhanced exfoliating, antioxidising and hydrating powers. Localised ferulic acid is applied before the pen is activated on each area. This antioxidising action neutralises the impact of free radicals and protects cellular DNA and the dermal structure while also tackling pigmentation. Following the microneedling, a mask is applied, with the therapist choosing between a vitamin-infused tissue mask or the Collagen Mask, depending on the client’s needs. Distributor Totally UK recommends charging from £125 to £175, depending on location. Call the company on 01784 259988

New

BEGINNINGS Launches aimed at detoxification and skin regeneration take centre stage this February

Nimue Skin Thermal Detox Peel Following the flash facial trend, this 30-minute rejuvenating treatment aims to deliver rapid results in a fraction of the time that traditional peels require. After cleansing the skin, the Thermal Detox Peel, a rich charcoal-based multi-functional peel that delivers instant hydration, plumping and all-round radiance, is applied. This peel combines a bubbling action to deep-cleanse the skin from environmental pollutants, toxins and impurities, with a thermo-sensory mechanism that creates a warming sensation to boost blood circulation and oxygenation of the skin cells. Post peel, skin is protected with relevant products, and after just one salon treatment, Nimue says clients’ pores will be more refined and lines and wrinkles less apparent, creating an overall radiant and smooth complexion. Nimue suggests charging £45 for the peel. Call distributor Sweet Squared on 0333 000 7000

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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This month we tried… Live True winter manicure using CND Brisa Sculpting Gel

The lowdown: Salon group Live True London was established around the concepts of creativity, authenticity and inspiration, with the intention of helping clients express themselves through the treatments they recieve, in a judgement-free space. Recently, Live True started offering nail treatments, stocking brands including CND, Morgan Taylor and Artistic. The experience: On entering the Live True Salon in Vauxhall, London, I was struck by the open-plan layout and urban-chic interior that makes the space inviting for

both men and women. I was greeted with a smile by a receptionist who made me a cappuccino, and then handed over to my nail tech Aliona Stirbu, the nail art specialist at the salon. Stirbu began by prepping my nails while I showed her some designs that I had found for inspiration. She then glued on tips before filing them into shape and carefully applying the CND Brisa Sculpting Gel. Stirbu took her time to ensure the shape was perfectly moulded, curing each nail under the lamp. Once the base colour had been applied, she created a unique design on each of my nails incorporating all the elements I had mentioned. Stirbu drew the designs, which included wintery snowflakes and iridescent sparkles, freehand, using a fine nail-art brush and CND Shellac polishes. She then applied two layers of top coat to ensure the glitter didn’t feel rough or bumpy. The verdict: The finished look was just what I was after: wintery but with a bright base colour to welcome in the New Year. Stirbu listened carefully to what I wanted and created something that expressed my personality and was unique to me. The final finish felt more natural and thinner than other gel enhancements I have had in the past. Business benefits: Freehand nail art is a great add-on to a traditional nail service and can keep customers coming back if you have a nail artist they can trust, while the CND Brisa Sculpting Gel offers a very natural-looking enhancement. Live True London charges from £90 for gel extensions with nail art (depending on the intricacy of the designs). Call distributor Sweet Squared for CND on 0333 000 7000 Tried by Lydia Mormen

Treatment News

151

Skin Regimen Urban Detox Facial Billed as the perfect antidote to pollution for city skins, this 60-minute treatment fuses active ingredients with the healing powers of Qigong, aromatherapy and sound therapy. The facial begins with a de-stressing massage inspired by Qigong, encouraging energetic detoxification and realignment. The aromas of juniper, copahu, rosewood and cedarwood essential oils further rebalance and reinvigorate the client’s mind. Throughout the facial, products are applied to detox the skin using application techniques inspired by modern physiotherapy, giving the experience a real point of difference. A Detox Mask with chlorella and charcoal purifies the skin and leaves it glowing and brighter. In addition, a further dynamic dimension is added to the facial via the Skin Regimen Macro Waves Sound therapy. This soundscape is designed to allow the client to detach from life’s everyday rhythm while restoring optimal energy levels. Skin Regimen recommends charging from £90 to £120, depending on location. Call the brand on 020 3301 0496

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Treatment News

152 D. Thomas DNA Photo Re-Nu Facial Take inspiration from laser specialist Debbie Thomas’s new facial. Launched in January, this one-hour treatment combines IPL and skin resurfacing techniques to reset the skin for 2019. Starting with a thorough cleanse to remove surface impurities, a mild peel is then used to take the dead cells from the skin’s top layer. IPL technology is applied two or three times to the skin, targeting rosacea, acne and fine wrinkles. Next up, the ResurFX non-ablative laser is passed over the skin to help resurface it and stimulate collagen production. A cooling vitamin C cream is then smoothed on to speed recovery, followed by the Oxygenetix Oxygenating Hydro-Matix product to further hydrate and soothe. The final step is a protective layer of PCA Skin Weightless Protection SPF and application of Oxygenetix Foundation. D. Thomas Clinic charges £580 for this treatment. Contact the clinic on 020 7118 9000

This month we tried… Body Ballancer The lowdown: Originally developed for medical applications, the Body Ballancer is a whole-body pressotherapy system that delivers lymphatic drainage massage to tackle fluid retention, removing cell debris, waste products and excess fluid. The client is zipped into a garment containing 24 air chambers that overlap to apply fluent compression strokes, with various pre-set programmes built into the touchscreen interface. The experience: I had my session with Body Ballancer UK director Jules Willcocks at Courthouse Clinics on Wimpole Street in London. After explaining the health benefits of the treatment, Willcocks helped me into the Body Ballancer pants, which zipped comfortably up to under my ribs.

A specialised jacket is also available to target the upper abdomen, arms and back. The pants were then attached to the computerised air-compression device and we decided on the 45-minute wellness programme for an overall lymphatic drainage massage as I didn’t have any particular areas of concern. Although the pre-set programme went through waves of different massage patterns, Willcocks explained that we could increase or lessen the intensity as it continued. I found the feeling of gradual inflation and flowing massage pressures completely comfortable and enjoyable, and I could have lain on the couch for far longer than my 45-minute programme. The verdict: I emerged feeling rested, my muscles relaxed and considerably lighter on my feet, which Willcocks explained was to do with the elimination of water retention, reducing any swelling or puffiness, commonly around the knees and ankles. Business benefits: The convenience of this treatment is a real USP – clients don’t have to remove any clothing and there’s nothing involved that interferes with make-up or hair, meaning Body Ballancer could truthfully be marketed as a “lunchtime” treatment. It would also be a great option for salons wanting to move into offering machine-based solutions to complaints like cellulite, excess weight and poor skin tone without any invasive procedures or downtime. Plus, because clients can sit up with their head and décolleté out of the garment, therapists can easily perform facial or lash and brow treatments during a session, adding to treatment spend. Body Ballancer recommends charging from £45 for a 30-minute session, depending on location. Call the brand on 01491 682700 Tried by Georgia Seago

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New Products

154

Bio Sculpture The Gemini Range is a new nourishing nail polish line that matches Bio Sculpture’s gel colours. The thick bristle brush promotes even application while a hardening plant extract adds strength to the nail. Trade: £4.50 each 03333 111555 (Re:new Beauty) renewbeauty.co.uk

Fresh

formulas

This month’s nail launches prepare for spring with pretty pastels and tropical teals, while hydrating skincare products focus on rejuvenating clients’ tired skin

Venus Concept Venus Glow is the latest dermal rejuvenation treatment from aesthetic device manufacturer Venus Concept, providing hydration for polluted skin. The lightweight vacuum gently removes impurities from the stratum corneum without irritation, resulting in a rejuvenated complexion. Trade: £15,000 020 8748 2221 venusconcept.com

Elemis This month, Elemis is adding to its Superfood range with four new launches including two masks – Vital Veggie Mask and Berry Boost Mask, plus a Blackcurrant Jelly Exfoliator and its first facial mist Kefir-Tea. The Superfood range is rich in antioxidants, omega fatty acids, vitamins and minerals to feed the skin. RRP: from £26 for the face mist 0117 316 1888 elemis.com

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New Products

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Gellux QMS Medicosmetics New from QMS Medicosmetics is the EpiGen Pollution Rescue Overnight Mask, which has been formulated to revitalise tired skin for a smoother, firmer and healthier appearance. Its velvet-foam texture is designed to provide intensive moisture and nourishment. Trade: £32.77 020 3971 2590 qmsmedicosmetics.com

Gellux’s spring collection, Tropical Hideaway, is a mix of creamy pastels and colourpopping brights, embodying the vibes of a tropical paradise. Each shade is formulated to be chip and wear-resistant and leaves nails with a long-lasting, glossy finish. Trade: £11.95 for 15ml 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com

Mii Cosmetics Mii is extending its range of synthetic brushes to include Eye Smudge, Eye Blend, Eye Crease and Perfect Blush. The original Kabuki and Eye Apply & Define brushes have also been updated to improve ease of use. Trade: from £9.25 for the Smudge Brush 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

Pevonia Pevonia’s new Radiance mask collection features three products to cover all ages and skin types. The masks use microemulsified technology for deep absorption and are available in Ageless Skin Collagen, Bright Skin Green Apple and Pure Skin Charcoal varieties. Trade: from £18 each 01449 727 0000 pevonia.co.uk

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New Products

156 Proto-col New from Proto-col is a nutraceutical range, Proto-col Clinical, containing clinical-grade collagen drinks and vegan food supplements. The products incorporate bioactive collagen peptides, at a high-grade concentrate, to aid conditions such as cellulite, as well as supporting healthy skin from within. Trade: from £10 0333 000 7788 proto-col.com

Skin Regimen New from Skin Regimen is the Enzymatic Powder, a foaming exfoliator with chlorella, rice starch and papaya enzymes for a brighter and smoother complexion. The powder exfoliator, once mixed with water, turns into a creamy foam that when massaged into the skin eliminates pollutants and gets rid of dead cells. Trade: £20 020 3301 0496 Comfortzone.it/en-gb

Phytomer Lotion P5, a new water-gel formula from Phytomer, contains brown algae to reduce fat storage, the brand’s signature seaweed concentrate to target fat cells, red algae to boost microcirculation, and green algae to reshape and tone the skin. Trade: £31.47 01892 750850 phytomer.co.uk

Aromatherapy Associates New from Aromatherapy Associates is the Skin Treatment Eye Zone Concentrate. The combination of bio-fermented actives, advanced amino acids and essential oils lifts, tightens and smooths the area around the eyes. RRP: £19.60 for 15ml 020 8569 7030 aromatherapyassociates.com

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NPE19 half beauty.qxp_Layout 2 09/01/2019 11:22 Page 1

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16/01/2019 15:18

New Products

158 Clarins Clarins’s spring make-up launches have been formulated to perfect, define and highlight clients’ features. The collection comprises the multi-purpose Ready In a Flash Eye Palette, containing two matte shadows, two highlighting shadows and two matte brow powders, two Glow 2 Go Duo contour and highlight sticks, and a Pore Blurring Primer. RRP: from £24 for the primer 0800 036 3558 clarins.com

La Biosthetique Perles Hydro-Vitalite is the new anti-pollution innovation from La Biosthetique. The moisturising gel contains pearl-shaped saccharides, extracted from corn sugar, that protect the skin. Other ingredients include red algae extract and sea salt, which energise and soften skin. Trade: £38.50 020 7580 4312 biosthetique.co.uk

Zelens Z Melatonin is an intensive night serum formulated to boost skin’s natural repair processes and target visible signs of environmental damage. The silky, moisturising formula contains melatonin, which has been shown to protect DNA from oxidative damage and stimulate fibroblasts, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. RRP: £165 for 30ml 020 3766 8051 zelens.com

Repêchage New from Repêchage comes Seaweed Body Cream, containing nutrient-rich, sustainably harvested seaweed to deeply moisturise the skin’s surface and reduce the appearance of dryness. The addition of ingredients such as vitamins E and C also helps to fight visible signs of ageing. Trade: £19 0800 731 7546 beautyfromthesea.co.uk

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Classified

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Career Path

160

How to make it as a...

beauty vlogger Nail tech Natasha Lee has almost a quarter of a million followers on YouTube. The CND grand master technician tells us what it takes to became a social media influencer

1. Grasp opportunities

personally mentor me. I spent six months going back

I am a former train driver and financial advisor. I knew I

and forth to London for courses and workshops.

needed a new career path to fit around the needs of my

They taught me absolutely loads: what makes

children and I am a very creative, arty person so I decided to

people click on a video link and what doesn’t, film

train as a nail tech and beauty therapist. Even though I was

techniques and the best equipment to use. I was

seven months pregnant when I qualified in 2011, a space

assigned a partner manager, a mentor, who also

became available in a local salon for a nail tech so I went for it.

helped me decipher my analytics.

By 2013, I’d opened my own nail salon, Divine by Design. I started to post images on social media and one tweet caught

4. Be prepared to dedicate time

the attention of Samantha Sweet, director of Sweet Squared,

By 2016, my routine was to film and edit videos on

who got in touch. I ended up winning the Shellac Power

a Tuesday and Wednesday and work in the salon

Polisher of the Year in 2013 and became an educator with

on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. I’d spend

CND. Things seemed to snowball from there. For me, it’s

Sunday uploading photos. However, the experts at

always worked best if I don’t push too hard.

YouTube were telling me I needed to spend more

2. Don’t make fame and fortune your goal

time on my channel but I felt I should be in the salon

In the beginning, I didn’t even realise you could make money

made the tough decision to sell the salon and focus

through YouTube. I really admired Holly Schippers, the

full time on YouTube as it better fitted the needs of

FingerNailFixer, whose tutorials helped me a lot. I thought

my family. It has paid off.

it would be wonderful if I could help people in the same way.

5. Understand the algorithms

So, I set up a YouTube channel, which didn’t really do

more often as I had a waiting list. I was torn, but I

anything at first. I thought my videos would disappear like

In terms of advertising, YouTube assigns the biggest

a needle in a haystack unless I gave people the direct link.

advertisers to the most popular posts. But in 2017

However, I did an open day for the Creative Academy in

Marks and Spencer suspended its YouTube

Manchester on a water marbling technique and created a

advertising over concerns it had been placed next to

video for people who couldn’t attend. It hit 14 million views

extremist videos. Other big advertisers followed suit.

so that really pushed me forward.

YouTube responded by tightening things up and a

3. Learn from the experts

computer algorithm now automatically demonetises

I only had about 11,000 subscribers when YouTube in London

a good thing, sometimes the most innocent video

contacted me. They had selected me as one of the top 18

subjects as “bows” on nails are penalised so take

up-and-coming YouTubers in the UK and they wanted to

time to understand how it works.

videos that it suspects are controversial. While this is

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SEE US ON STAND S36

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