Professional Beauty March 2020 by Professional Beauty UK

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15 News Semi-permanent make-up is the most profitable treatment 29 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online

Lipsy.

Regulars

Contents

Mar

Contents

29 Digital direction Mastering Instagram Lives and how to reuse the content 35 Out & about Behind the scenes at the industry’s biggest parties 41 Insider Monthly business stats 47 Ward’s world The secret to retaining your best therapists

Features

On the cover

115 Hot topic 1 Do beauty therapists need to do less of the small talk?

61 Talking to… Terri Clarke The owner of Simpsons Beauty Group explains why she’s adding an aesthetic business to her salon and spa portfolio

135 Hot topic 2 Debate: is it time to ban smartphones in spas?

68 What’s hot for 2020 Ultimate guide to the 800 beauty brands at PB London

95 Watch and Learn Whether you’re a mobile therapist, new beauty business or a salon with 10 years’ experience, there’s something for everyone on PB London’s education programme

136 Operational advice David Wright explains the rules on monitoring staff via CCTV

90 World Spa & Wellness Convention 2020 What operators can expect to learn at this year’s conference

51 Ask the experts Training up in mesotherapy and customer loyalty

139 Nail notes How to boost your nail salon’s Instagram engagement 141 Treatment news Strip sugaring and British Lashes 145 New products Inika’s first skincare line 152 Career Path Sharleen Lind on cancer therapy treatments

103 Front runner Last chance to enter PB’s lash, make-up and nail comps 117 Stronger together Beauty and spa market challenges uncovered at PB focus groups 132 Full steam ahead Can The Bath House make Russian banyas a staple in UK spa culture?

106 Change of pace An in-depth look at how the skin changes during perimenopause and menopause, and how you can effectively treat oestrogen-depleted complexions in salon 120 New season nails Why double-dipped French manis and super sheer nails are going to be among the hot nail art looks for spring/ summer; plus, we reveal what the pro brands have in store for the season Cover image: Primark

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Editor’s Comment

At a recent focus group we held here in the PB offices, some leading spa directors were discussing the client sectors that may still feel marginalised. While it’s true that huge strides have been made in recent years to welcome people going through or recovering from cancer into spas – and you can find out more about exactly what’s involved in cancer touch training in our career path feature this month, on page 152 – this increasingly inclusive approach has shone a light on other groups that still need a little more attention. In our focus group, the question was raised as to whether it’s time to take a fresh look at the treatments we offer women during pregnancy, for example, which are often limited to one specialist massage, and sometimes nothing at all in the first trimester. Treatments for those going through menopause were also tipped as a key focus for 2020, with spas and salons looking for new ways to help women manage the changes to their skin, body and wellbeing. Our feature on page 106 takes an in-depth look at the subject, uncovering the key changes women experience during this stage of life and the help you can provide, through both changes to their skincare routines, and practical adjustments such as the temperature of heated beds. You can read about the other market trends and challenges identified during our focus groups on page 117, while our Professional Beauty London preview (page 68) offers a sneak peek at six of the major 2020 trends you can discover at the upcoming show – from vegan make-up to CBD skincare, there are launches that will help you make all clients feel welcome.

Editor

@Pro_Beauty01

@Pro_Beauty

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Subscriptions enquiries: 01371 851875 professionalbeauty@escosubs.co.uk Editor: Eve Oxberry eve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7378 Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley amanda@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9064 Content writer: Eleanor Vousden eleanor@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7362 Social media editor: Chris Halpin chris@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7368 Intern: Kieran Read kieran@professionalbeauty.co.uk Sales director: Steve James steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Peter Bishop peter@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7364 Jack Diamond jack@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4792

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audited

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15 News

News Scottish Government plans to regulate botox and fillers with new legislation The Scottish Government is cracking down on unregulated injectables in the beauty industry with a new legislation proposal. Under the new plans, nonhealthcare professionals in the aesthetics industry may soon have to carry a licence in order to perform injectables such as fillers and botulinum toxin. Public health minister Joe FitzPatrick said Scotland would be the first in the UK to introduce the licensing scheme, and a consultation has been initiated for the public to share their views until the end of April 2020. “We’re committed to patient safety and want to ensure that all those who carry out non-surgical

procedures, such as dermal fillers or lip enhancements, are competent, and that the treatments take place in safe and hygienic premises,” explained FitzPatrick. “We plan to introduce regulations later this year and invite members of the public and interested parties to give their views

as part of the consultation on our proposals.” The licences would be akin to those required in tattoo parlours, where a licence shows that the practitioner has been adequately trained, having both the experience and skills to perform the treatment. Currently, clinics run by medical professionals who provide non-surgical cosmetic procedures are regulated by Healthcare Improvement Scotland (HIS). However, there is no regulation on who can practise injectables in locations such as beauty salons, pharmacies, hairdressers and aesthetic clinics. Read more on the beauty industry’s reaction to the proposed regulation on page 29.

10 trends set to shake up wellness this year Circadian health and a well-

4. Mental wellness and technology

washing crackdown are among

Addressing mental health will span

the 10 trends that will take the

new categories such as affordable

global wellness industry by storm,

virtual therapy apps.

according to the Global Wellness Summit’s (GWS) “The Future of Wellness 2020” Report.

5. Energy medicine The medical and wellness worlds will come together to optimise human

1. Circadian health

energy fields to prevent illness.

With the sleep economy valued

6. Organised religion jumps

at £432bn, the focus will now turn

into wellness

to improving circadian health

Congregations will fuse their

optimisation.

physical and spiritual needs in

2. Ageing rebranded

novel ways, from aerobic fitness

More conglomerates will invest in

classes to meditative retreats.

the 55-year-old plus market as, for

7. The wellness sabbatical

many countries, this demographic

The new travel concept – where

controls the highest percentage

days of work and wellness

of disposable income.

are intentionally blended at

3. J-wellness It will be embraced as a holistic

destinations that creatively make this possible – will soar in popularity.

culture of wellbeing, from J-beauty

8. Fertility boom

to its reverence for meditative

The fertility landscape will change,

rituals as preventative healthcare.

filled with apps and wearables that

work to help increase a person’s chances of conceiving. 9. Wellness music Music’s impact on heart rate and sleep patterns will be used so evidence-based soundscapes can be developed as a form of precision medicine. 10. Wellness trust Wellness watchdogs will rise to re-establish distinctions between legitimate wellness practitioners and charlatans. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Semi-permanent make-up tops list of most profitable treatments Semi-permanent brows is the most profitable beauty treatment you can train in, according to new stats. Research from Fragrance Direct uncovered the most profitable treatments, including the number you’d need to perform to pay off training costs. Semi-permanent brows was shown to yield £4,420 (gross) per week (based on 10 clients per week) and would take 11 bookings to cover training costs. Semi-permanent lip-liner was named the second most profitable, with earnings of £3,600, and 14 sessions needed to cover training. Semi-permanent eyeliner came in third, and would generate earnings of

£3,300, yet it would take 25 appointments to cover training. Additional brow services came in fourth and fifth, with ombré brows offering prospective profits of £3,010 each week, while microshading averages £2,600. The number of sessions needed to cover training costs are 15 and 12 respectively.

Anti-fatigue beauty sales to rocket over next decade Anti-fatigue cosmetics are growing in popularity, with global sales expected to grow at a CAGR (compound annual growth rate) of 4.4% until the end of

2029, according to data from market intelligence agency Fact.MR. The growth will be driven by factors such as the impact of unhealthy lifestyles on skin, increased levels of pollution and higher disposable incomes, as well “the rising incorporation of natural and organic ingredients in beauty”, said the report. Face and eye creams are the biggest draw of the anti-fatigue market, accounting for more than 35% of sales, and are expected to maintain their dominance throughout the 10-year forecast period.

Third of women put off aesthetic treatments due to fear of problems Almost two thirds of UK consumers (64%) believe there is not enough education or regulation regarding procedure risks, according to research from medical skincare group Sk:n. In fact, 38% of the women who responded to Sk:n’s survey said they’re put off having treatments out of fear they will not be performed correctly; while 28% would be worried about infection.

inbrief

News

// Helping clients make simple eco-swaps in their daily beauty routine could be the way to boost loyalty, as a new survey by The Midcountries Co-operative revealed that just under half (45%) of Brits wished they had more time in the day to be “greener”. // The Gharieni Group has joined forces with organic seaweed brand Voya to develop three bespoke treatments: Massage; Wrap & Facial; and Massage, Wrap & Facial. All combine the heated quartz present in Gharieni’s MLX Quartz table with the skin-boosting properties of Voya’s seaweed-infused products. // Grayshott Health Spa will become the first UK health clinic to provide a medically supported Mayr fasting programme. The eight-night detox programme is based on the six principles of modern Mayr medicine, including resting, training, cleansing, substitution, exercise and mindfulness. // Blushes Hair & Beauty salon in Cheltenham added an aesthetics clinic to its business in February. Medical practitioner Dr Aislinn Watkins is leading the team at Blushes Aesthetics, offering facial enhancers and wrinkle relaxants, as well as products from cosmeceutical brand ZO Skin Health. // Dr Uliana Gout has been elected new President of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine (BCAM). Dr Gout is a long-standing member of BCAM and has most recently served on the board as director of PR and marketing, as well as a BCAM appraiser and on the BCAM Audit Committee.

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News

inbrief // Core by Premier Software has created a sheet mask in collaboration with Temple Spa, which is being sent to Core clients. “We hope that by providing this gift to our clients, they will be reminded to take care of themselves while taking care of others,” said Leonie Wileman, chief operations officer at Premier Software. // The international standard for beauty and spa therapy, Cidesco, has partnered with skincare brand Babor on a Student Scholarship Programme for underprivileged students. Accredited schools can apply for the scheme, which will cover up to e5,500 per year to support students in their Cidesco Diploma or Certificate studies. // Pevonia has become the exclusive skincare partner at Laguna Health & Spa at the four-star Park Plaza Hotel, Cardiff. Pevonia has supplied the spa since 2017, alongside Espa. As sole product house, it has introduced an extended and enhanced menu. // The Eyelash Emporium Pro is the official lash partner of Love Island this series, for a second year running. The collection includes various styles of strip lashes and accessories including a lash applicator, lash cleansing solution and an aftercare kit. // Leeds-based Oulton Hall is the latest hotel spa to take on skincare brand Elemis, offering Biotec facials and SkinLab consultations. “The vast amount of product choices can be very overwhelming. Helpful tech like this narrows down which treatments are best suited for each client,” said spa manager Anna Wilkinson.

Global CBD skincare sales set to reach £741m by 2024 Sales in the global CBD skincare market are forecasted to reach £741 million ($959m) by 2024, according to data from strategic consultancy firm Prohibition Partners “The Impact Series: Disputing Beauty Report”. The CBD skincare market brought in £548m ($710m) in sales in 2018 alone, the report found, and could account for around 10% of all global skincare sales within the next five to 10 years. However, research showed that it’s smaller indie brands that have been

driving the developments in the market as multinational companies wait to see if CBD is a long-lasting trend. “Consumers are looking for new products derived from natural and sustainable sources and cannabis continues to fit this mould, driving product demand through the roof,” said Stephen Murphy, managing director of Prohibition Partners. Turn to page 68 to check out the many CBD-focused brands coming to the Professional Beauty London show on March 29–30.

New approval mark for sensitive skin products The SGS Group has developed a new symbol for products that are suitable for sensitive skin types. It will only be

awarded to beauty items that are deemed to have “very good skin tolerance” or “good skin tolerance”. This comes at a time when skin tolerance has become an important factor for consumers, with 50% opting for this over price or brand name, reported SGS. Based on the PDI test, the approval mark will be awarded to products that match the dermatologically tested evaluation criteria in the European Union (EU) publication “Technical Document on Cosmetic Claims”.

Salon group Sunseekers to expand to 31 sites following £2m investment Tanning salon chain Sunseekers Sunbeds is getting a £2 million investment from lender ThinCats to expand the business to 31 sites across the North West over the next 12 months. The tanning shop company, run by managing director Ben Smith, opened its first store in Maghull in 2001, and currently has 19 sites. “Sunseekers started as a small business with big ambitions, growing organically. When we went out for financing, we needed a solution that would suit our business and ThinCats offered what we needed,” said Smith.

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News

inbrief

// Brand ambassador Mel Sunshine has launched a Dermalogica web shop, yourskinexpert.co.uk. The site includes video tutorials and uses Dermalogica’s Face Mapping artificial intelligence (AI) technology to analyse clients’ skin. // The Hair and Beauty Charity is hosting its Scottish Golf Day fundraising event on May 18 at the Carnoustie Golf Links club in Angus. All proceeds from the friendly golfing tournament will go to beauty therapists, hairdressers and barbers in their hour of need. Tickets cost £175 per person. // The Spa at Pennyhill Park has re-opened its refurbished Thermal Heaven cabins. The 11 cabins provide a personalised journey through the healing elements of heat, light, air and water, including an Ice Igloo and Mud Room. Therapists will help guests find the best route through Thermal Heaven. // Murad has partnered with Kimton Blythswood Square Spa, Glasgow. Guests can experience the Murad Method Facial, which begins with a five-stage analysis of the skin. Alongside the treatment, nutrition advice and stressmanagement techniques will also be provided in tandem with a recommended at-home skin regime. // Cosmeceutical brand AlumierMD’s limited-edition Bright Eyes Kit is back by popular demand. The set includes vitamin-infused Retinol Eye Gel, which firms and tightens the eye area using time-released retinol, and antioxidant-rich AluminEye, a retinol cream that improves skin elasticity while reducing dark circles.

2020 aesthetic treatment trend predictions revealed Jaw sculpting, “baby botox” and male combination surgeries are among the top predictions for aesthetic treatment trends this year. A report by The Private Clinic of Harley Street on industry trends and innovations revealed that 54% of survey respondents list non-surgical alternatives to traditionally surgical procedures as most likely to grow in popularity throughout 2020. Non-surgical rhinoplasty and jaw and temple sculpting using dermal fillers came out on top, while “natural”

body-shaping methods, such as autologous fat transfer or autoaugmentation (a technique that uses a patient’s own breast tissue to alter the shape of the breasts), are also tipped to be a key trend. The findings back those of a separate new report The Aesthetic Society, which found that “baby botox” is expected to be a key trend. The term refers to targeted microinjections of a neurotoxin to achieve more subtle results, as more patients seeking are natural-looking results.

Harrods reveals new Beauty Events and Services space London department store Harrods has completed the final phase of its beauty business development with the launch of an additional treatments space. The lower ground floor now houses a beauty events and services space, including 14 treatment rooms where clients can receive consultations and treatments that are exclusive to the Knightsbridge store. Dior and Chanel are launching

The space also has a beauty concierge

bespoke treatment rooms in the space,

and two interactive masterclass rooms

offering a menu of exclusive therapies

for events. The news follows Harrods’

drawn directly from their Paris flagships.

announcement that it will be launching

Clé de Peau Beauté and Decorté

a 23,000sq ft beauty store, H Beauty,

are also among the luxury brands

in Essex this spring – its first site outside

offering facials in the new area.

of London.

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Aqua Natural launches packaging refill sustainability scheme Natural sugaring brand Aqua Natural has upped its green promise by launching a refillable strip sugaring scheme for account holders. The brand’s Refill, Reduce, Reuse initiative encourages therapists to return their empty sugar paste pots free of charge, where they will be washed, sterilised and reused. As a thank you, Aqua Natural will give 15% off the next order.

“Reducing the amount of single-use plastic in our process was always the natural next step in our drive to be better for the environment,” said co-founder Rosie Khandwala. “Finding a way in which the jars didn’t have to be disposed of afterwards was our aim.” The brand requires a minimum of six jars to be returned at any one time. The scheme will officially launch at Professional Beauty London on March 29.

Sweet Squared education programme accredited by Habia Government standards-setting body Habia has accredited Sweet Squared’s education programme, with the company’s 35 academies now recognised as Centres of Expertise. Sweet Squared sought the approval to demonstrate consistent delivery of high-quality courses that guarantee a premium level of learning and address employer needs. “We always strive for perfection within our education sector and being accredited by Habia reassures students that they’re receiving the

diarydates // March 4 UK Spa Association (UKSA) Spring Networking Event Carden Park, Chester An opportunity for UKSA members and non-members to meet and network. manager@spa-uk.org spa-uk.org

News

// March 6–8 Beauty Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf Trade fair for cosmetics, nails, wellness and spa. +49 211 4560 7602 beauty-duesseldorf.com // March 12–16 Cosmoprof Worldwide Fairground District, Bologna, Italy Exhibition with separate dates for packaging, perfume and beauty. +39 02 796420 cosmoprof.com // March 29–30 Professional Beauty London ExCeL London The flagship show from the PB Group includes conferences for spa, manufacturing, education and much more. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk

very best training,” said S2 education manager Carly Howarth. Sweet Squared distributes brands including CND, Lashus, Lecenté, Light Elegance, MoroccanTan, Nimue and Wax:one.

Beautiful Minds calls for entries to charity nail calendar competition Beautiful Minds has launched a nail-themed Charity Calendar Competition to help raise money for mental health charity Mind. The initiative has assembled a team of top techs, including Annabel Maginnis, Georgie Smedley and Katie Barnes, to create nail art looks for the Beautiful Minds 2021 Calendar, but with the December slot left open for one more tech to have their work featured.

To enter, techs need to submit a festive-themed photographic image, which will be judged on the complexity of the design, background and props, originality, lighting and the “wow factor”. Entry price is £20 and submission deadline is July 13, 2020. Entries should be emailed to chris@bookinbeautiful.com with the subject line: BM Calendar Comp. The winner will be announced in October.

// March 29–30 World Spa & Wellness Convention London ExCel London The essential conference for international spa owners and hoteliers looking to network. 020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com // April 6 Professional Beauty Cape Town The River Club, South Africa Platform to conduct business, network and source supplies. +27 (0)11 781 5970 probeauty.co.za professionalbeauty.co.uk

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VISIT US ON STAND B61

EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020

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Digital

professional

beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Simpsons Beauty Group (@simpsons_beauty_group): That feeling when you open your emails and see an email from Professional Beauty talking about your business. Thank you @pro_beauty01 for the write up. It made my day!

Hot topic Emma Ginever, The Essentials Beauty Salon, Birmingham: Feeling proud that we featured in this month’s Professional Beauty magazine. #dreambig #featured #feelingproud

Botox and fillers set to be regulated by Government in Scotland THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… How do you get the most bookings from clients online?

49% WEBSITE OR APP

51% SOCIAL MEDIA

Ainslie Cameron, aesthetic practitioner at Ultim8 SKN Solutions in Glasgow, commented: “About time, but guys, let’s be ethical and reasonable about this. I just hope the Government don’t make it a money-making exercise – penalising the good ones as opposed to the backstreet ones.” Joyce Connor, owner of Joyce Connor Cosmetics in Reading, commented: “I think anyone charging for any cosmetic, beauty or hair treatment should be licensed. There are too many people making a mockery of the industry.” Marie Lamont, owner of Sparkles Beauty in Aberdeen, commented: “This is well overdue, not only in this area but within all areas of beauty and the services offered to the public. Interesting to see how this all works out” Jolene Young, beauty therapy learning assistant at Moray College UHI, commented: “It’s a start, but a ridiculously small one. Our industry has been screaming out for regulation for years, not just for these injectables.” Melissa Paterson, beauty therapist as Kohler Waters Spa, St Andrews, commented: “There needs to be different classifications. You can’t put someone who has studied for years in the same category as someone who has done a three-day course.”

Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @eleanorvousden @katsjonouchi

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Digital Direction

Taking THINGS LIVE Live video is one of the best ways to help grow your business online – but many people have concerns about getting in front of the camera. PB’s Social

Media Editor, Chris Halpin, shares some tips to help you feel more at ease

he success of live video on social media is hard to ignore. Data compiled by research company 99firms shows that live video on Facebook gains six times as many interactions as pre-recorded video. It’s something that social media platforms will only be encouraging more. Remember, social media works on algorithms. If someone watches your live video or interacts with you, it flags them as being actively engaged with your content. That means they’re more likely to see your content on that social platform in the future. It’s a quick way to get lots more eyes on everything you’re doing – not just live video. However, from many conversations with salon owners and therapists, I know that lives are still seen as a “scary” experience. It doesn’t have to be though, as there are some quick wins you can do to make live video seem much less daunting.

Preparation is key Think about what you want to say in your live video and frame it around this. It might be a new treatment that you’re introducing, or maybe it’s a promotional offer. Try to keep live videos around three to five minutes, as this seems to get the best engagement. Don’t feel like you have to script everything you’re going to say, though. Imagine how you’d talk about this to a client in your salon. For some viewers, this could be the first glimpse they’ll get of your personality and reading from a script won’t let that shine through.

One of the advantages of going live is that it takes the “need” to be perfect out of the equation. Nobody watching a live video will expect a glossy production with fancy effects. Similarly, there’s room for small errors or mistakes: it makes the video feel more “real”, enhancing that connection between you and the viewer. That being said, there are a couple of things to consider if you want to optimise the viewing experience. Make sure you’re somewhere with a strong internet connection, and try to limit background noise or distractions. If you want to kick things up to the next level, you can find low-cost, mobile-phone friendly tripod and ring-light combinations online. This is much easier than balancing a phone or holding it yourself while filming.

Re-using live content One of the great things with live content is that you can also use it for other purposes. Instagram Lives, for example, can be saved to your phone’s camera roll once completed. They’re perfect to then re-upload on to IGTV – another tool Instagram continues to push out to viewers – and link via your Instagram grid. Similarly, you can upload these videos to Facebook, YouTube, or any other platform that you might be using. You can also crop bits in and out of your video once it’s completed, so if you only want to highlight one specific part of the video, that’s easy to achieve. Ultimately, the more times you go live, the more comfortable and confident you’ll get. Give it a go and see what benefits it brings. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Industry Events

Out About

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

SALON OWNERS SUMMIT CONVENTION CENTRE, DUBLIN, IRELAND Software brand Phorest’s annual summit welcomed more than 500 hair and beauty salon professionals in January. The theme was “Create a 2020 vision for your salon”, and speakers included Pamela Laird, owner of Moxi Loves and finalist of BBC1’s The Apprentice, who shared her business journey; as well as consultants and coaches including Phil Jackson and Ryan Power. This year, there was also a separate brand-focused day called Inside Phorest - The Future of Technology for the Salon Industry, during which the company’s product and development team gave delegates an insight into new tech. The day also included a special guest speaker from Instagram’s European headquarters and a live podcast recording.

OPI SPRING 2020 COLLECTION LAUNCH THE CONDUIT, LONDON Held at a private members’ club in Mayfair, OPI unveiled its spring/summer 2020 nail collection, which is inspired by Mexico City. Press, including PB’s deputy editor Amanda Pauley and content writer Eleanor Vousden went along to experience a manicure with the new colours, alongside Mexican-inspired cocktails and flower crowns. Drawing from the city’s vibrant art and fashion scene, the 12 shades in the collection range from hot fuschia (Telenovela Me About It) and sunshine yellow (Don’t Tell A Sol), through to deep blue (Mi Casa Es Blue Casa). Guests left with a goody bag including the entire collection, plus a voucher for treatmenton-demand service Blow Ltd.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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36 Industry Events

SUSAN ROUTLEDGE BEAUTY DIRECTORS CLUB BUSINESS BOOTCAMP RAMSIDE HALL HOTEL & SPA, DURHAM Salon professionals from across the UK, Ireland and the US attended business consultant Susan Routledge’s business bootcamp. Now in its third year, the two-day programme saw business experts, including PB managing director Mark Moloney, sharing knowledge from various areas of expertise, including client retention, business systems, sales, cash management, HR and marketing. A session for therapists and receptionists was held on day two to provide support and confidence to retail to clients. Between the sessions, the event provided networking opportunities for attendees to share information and to troubleshoot issues relating to their businesses.

DR MARTIN NIMMO AND THE PRACTICE BEAUTY CLINIC LAUNCHES Instagram/@dr_martin_nimmo

SURREY Distributor Advanced Esthetics Solutions (AES) supported two of its major clinic accounts with launch events in late January. Dr Martin Nimmo hosted a star-studded party (pictured top) to celebrate the opening of his new Surrey clinic. Nimmo, who also runs a clinic in London, demoed AES’s Duetto MT, Divine Pro and geneO devices. Meanwhile, The Practice Beauty Clinic (pictured bottom) in Sunbury on Thames held a red-carpet launch event, where Dr Saba Khan and the team showed off the facilities and the geneO, Duetto MT and Lipofirm Pro devices.

AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES RECLAIM AND REVIVE EVENT THE WELLCOME COLLECTION, LONDON Aromatherapy Associates (AA) held a panel discussion in February on how the natural power of therapeutic oils can transform mind, body and soul. PB’s Amanda went along to hear AA chief executive Anna Teal kick off the event by explaining that 2010 to 2019 was “the decade of anxiety”, with more Brits turning to alternative therapies to cope with rising stress levels, which is why the industry should be pushing the transformative benefits of aromatherapy more. She was followed by AA’s global wellness director, Christina Salcedas, and neuroscientist Dr Tara Swart explaining how important smell is to changing behaviour patterns in the brain, and the simple techniques that consumers can instil on a daily basis. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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VISIT US ON STAND Q17

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19/12/2019 09:48

19/12/2019 13:09 09:52 08/11/2019

41 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

Clients are more in the know about the latest skincare trends now, meaning it’s vital to stay ahead of the curve so your business can meet customers’ everchanging needs. With beauty lovers now using effective two-in-one hybrid products to cut down the steps in their routine, the “skinimalist” approach to skincare is trending (42%), as is the transparency movement (40%), in which clients are investing in ranges that clearly define what’s in a formulation on the label, with no added jargon. Some of the brands leading the way in these trends will be coming to the Professional Beauty London show at ExCeL at the end of this month. Check out the full list of exhibitors on page 68. Meanwhile, offering a “clean” make-up line is also a top priority for your salon, with many clients now asking for mineral (30%) and vegan (23%) options, while organic (20%) is also soaring in popularity.

On the spot

Miss Selfridge

beauty

January 2020 in numbers Which skincare trend do you think will be most popular with clients this year? 1. The skinimalist approach 2. Transparency 3. Electroylte-infused

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?

48% 41% 11% BETTER

% offer dermaplaning Which “clean” factor is most important to clients when choosing a make-up brand? 1. Mineral 2. Vegan 3. Natural 4. Organic

Take part in our Insider feature

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

70% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?

31% 52% 17% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Trends

Insider

spa

On the spot Which material would you like to add to your spa’s interior design? 1. Natural wood 2. Statement tiles 3. Gold 4. Marble

Alma Society

With alternative therapies growing in popularity, offering a broad range of services on your spa menu has never been more crucial. This year, many of you are looking to train your therapists in cancer touch therapy (44%), to make your spa accessible to everyone, as well as sending some of the team on a sports massage course (17%), so you can better meet the needs of your fitnessfanatic clients. As the beauty industry strives to better meet the needs of women going through menopause, more than a quarter of you (28%) are now offering menopause-specific face and body treatments to show your commitment to helping these clients achieve ultimate skin health. Professional Beauty recently held a focus group with some of the UK’s top spa operators to talk about the biggest issues facing the industry. Read what was discussed on page 117.

January 2020 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?

65% 33% 2% BETTER

28 %

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

offer treatments specifically for menopausal clients

63% Which specialism would you like your therapists to upskill in this year? 1. Cancer touch therapy 2. Sports massage 3. Craniosacral therapy 4. Sound bath

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?

39% BETTER

44%

17% WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Trends

Insider

nails

Spring is here and with it comes the transition from winter’s deep hues to brighter pastel shades. The colour-block effect (45%) is tipped to be one of the biggest nail art looks of the season, with strong geometric lines (15%) following closely, as clients opt for the chic, minimalist look. Negative space is still going strong, with 8% of clients still requesting this look in salon. Find out which other trends and colours will be popular for SS20 on page 120. It’s no surprise that many of you have had to sort a nail issue for clients after they’ve visited a nonstandard salon, where the treatment protocol hasn’t been followed to the right standard. Many of you have had to treat extremely thin nails (40%), try to nourish the natural nail when it has had layers buffed away (32%), and give some serious TLC to cuticles that have been clipped raw (8%). Some have even seen clients who have suffered torn skin (6%) and infections (6%) due to poor treatment elsewhere.

Which abstract nail art look is most popular with clients? 1. Colour block 2. Geometric lines 3. Geometric shapes 4. Negative space

Lipsy.

On the spot January 2020 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?

27% 58% 15% have had clients ask for lipstick-shaped nails

BETTER

SAME

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK What’s the most common issue you’ve seen on a client after they’ve visited a non-standard salon? 1. Extremely thin nails 2. Layers of natural nail buffed away 3. Cuticles clipped raw 4. Skin torn

METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email from January 31 to February 6, regarding business for the month to January 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

15 HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2020 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2019?

15% 57% 28% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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SDS309 Pro Beauty March Ad [OUTLINED] 03.indd 1

05/02/2020 14:20

A dream

Ward’s World

TEAM?

The bonds that form between a salon team can be strong, and we should promote the fun and support they bring to employees, writes HELLEN WARD

t our recent annual company awards dinner, we were privileged to present two 25-year service awards and three 20-year service awards to some of our most valued team members. It’s quite something to honour such loyalty and, as you might imagine, it’s an emotional night full of love and laughter (as well as some outrageous partying). We’ve always tried to create a family ethos within the company, and with 18 people having achieved more than two decades of service, and many more having reached 15 or 10 years, it occurred to me watching the lovely interaction during the speeches we made about each team member (heckling, banter and mickey taking) what a hugely contributing factor the inter-staff relationship is in keeping people in their jobs for so long.

interactions with their co-workers by ensuring they always say the right thing. Our long-standing crew may not behave the same in front of the younger team members, but when a group of people have been working together for decades, there’s a spirit of togetherness akin to siblings. In fact, they fall out at times like siblings do. But, like most families, woe betide anyone else who criticises their kin. Isn’t that a crucial part of the wonderful glue that holds us all together?

I think we forget just what a pull it is to be part of a team

Feeling comfortable We all know that the sector is under threat from selfemployment. But I think we forget just what a pull it is to be part of a team. I’m sure that as much as our staff love working at the salon, they don’t just stay because it’s well-run. They stay because they love their colleagues and enjoy feeling comfortable among their peers. In this age of wokeness, what could be a substitute for working with people who you’ve known so long, you can feel comfortable with and have a playful joke with? It’s a huge attraction, and I wonder whether salon owners who are losing valuable employees to the freelance life are just not shouting loudly enough about it. Maybe it’s an age thing – I grew up with Monty Python and the pioneers of alternative comedy, where sarcasm, irony and satire were the norm. In these increasingly politically correct times, there’s a real danger of people feeling stifled in their

Changing paths

I’ve always loved the film It’s A Wonderful Life and I’m fascinated by the concept of being able to look back at what life would be like if one individual had failed to exist. How would your absence impact the people who’ve crossed your path during your life? It’s hugely mindexpanding to ponder such an idea. In my small way, I think of the myriad people who’ve coupled up, made lifelong friends and even started families because they met through the work environment that I’ve been in part responsible for creating. They say “what’s for you won’t go by you” but isn’t it also a truism that people come together and stay together for a reason? Isn’t that something to celebrate and champion? So, bring on the banter, I say. The joking, the ribbing, the fun and the games is a huge part of why people come to work. Let’s not stifle it completely. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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AWARD WINNING SKINCARE

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Business Tips

ask

the EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

What are the potential dangers of plasma treatments and how can I avoid them? While plasma can deliver a wide range of treatments from skin tag removal to blepharoplasty, its application needs a professional approach to ensure client safety. The most common plasma device used is the plasma pen. Though a relatively cheap technology, diligence must be applied in the purchasing decision. Ensure the equipment meets the relevant CE certification and the supplier can provide a certificate of compliance of quality assurance. A major factor for successful plasma treatments is a stable and consistent delivery of the plasma arc. Too strong and the dermal layer can be broken, with the risk of permanent damage; too weak and results will be poor. Always choose a device with a proven track record, a brand with a history of expertise, and a supplier who can testify to its safety and efficacy. Good providers will tell you that at least 30% of the treatment happens away from the couch. A comprehensive consultation should be undertaken at least seven days prior to treatment and include a patch test. Examples of specific contraindications are autoimmune issues, diabetes, pacemakers and keloid scarring. Plasma may also increase the chance of hyperpigmentation, especially in darker skin types. Misuse of plasma may cause permanent damage, so never treat an indication unless you are qualified to do so, have been certified as competent, have undergone accredited training from a qualified professional and are insured to do so. The key function of a plasma pen treatment is sublimation, a vaporising of the epidermis into a gas. Instantly, the effect leaves a multiple micro-millimetre-wide dot and crust on the epidermis. While superficial,

this may take four to 10 days to heal. Restrict the areas to be treated at each session, as too much work will not heal efficiently and results will be compromised. When treating the eye area, natural swelling will occur and may last up to seven days. The client should be given comprehensive aftercare advice and the correct medicated healing creams. Encourage them to provide photographic evidence of their healing progress for your perusal, and we always suggest a follow up “exit consultation” eight weeks later.

Kim Wuestehube is global master trainer of ACCOR Cosmetic Corrector, which is distributed by The Smart Group. Visit the brand at Professional Beauty London on stand L41.

Most of this month’s experts are speakers at Professional Beauty London at ExCeL on March 29–30. To book any live stage or seminar session for just £5 (£1 for students and lecturers) visit professionalbeauty.co.uk/seminars

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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52 Business Tips

I’m thinking about adding mesotherapy to my treatment menu, what do I need to know?

How can I promote pro-ageing rather than anti-ageing in my salon? As a business, you need to look at ways to support your clients to take care of their body, face and emotional wellbeing in the most natural and rewarding way. This can include lifestyle advice, health and wellness tips, and completely rewriting your treatment and therapy menus. I am dealing with all of these issues of ageing myself, while simultaneously witnessing the struggles and confusion of my clients, many of whom talk about themselves in negative terms regarding their looks and how they are ageing. We live in a culture that worships youth and views ageing as a failure. But if we learn to embrace our emerging selves, we can age wonderfully well – across all aspects, including our face and body, our thoughts and emotions, and our inner selves. At my upcoming talk at Professional Beauty London, I will be sharing with therapists a new perspective on ageing and giving them guidance about how to support their clients to stay positive, fit, beautiful and confident. My talk will also address a shift in the therapist’s role, from passive provider of creams and procedures to active adviser, much beyond a simple skincare routine. It Beata Aleksandrowicz is the challenges therapists towards founder of The Aleksandrowicz System and will be speaking self-growth and expansion of their in the “How to…” seminar knowledge that must include not programme at PB London on only physical, but also emotional Sunday, March 29, at 11am. and mental wellbeing.

Mesotherapy gives you back that glow that we love in our youth. People still love toxin and filler of course, but that doesn’t help you with your skin. Mesotherapy is 100% about skin health. These superficial injections are the best because they provide hydration to the skin. Look at the French, for example. Many of them don’t do facials, but have mesotherapy on a regular basis and it works better as it is “in” the skin, rather than just sitting on the complexion surface. Some people are slightly nervous about using a syringe, but you can use a gun, which is becoming more popular. Another alternative is electricity perforation, which uses a positive electric current to push the product in. It won’t get it anywhere near as deep as it would with a syringe, but it’ll get it close enough to where the growth factors are, kick-starting them to help restore the skin naturally. The most important thing, and this is the trouble we have in the UK, is that the mesotherapy cocktail has to be registered and it has to be a medical device. Make sure that any mesotherapy brand you’re considering working with has the clinical trials, white papers, backstory, evidence and histology – and if they don’t have those, then walk away.

Andrew Hansford, Fillmed lead skin quality expert and trainer, will be speaking at on the Advanced Treatments Live Stage at PB London on Sunday, March 29, at 11am.

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12/02/2020 10:53

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Business Tips

56 How can I improve customer loyalty?

I’m short on time. Should I outsource the social media for my salon or spa? The pressure to create content and images, and to manage social scheduling and engagement, can be overwhelming. If you’re too busy running the business, then it’s time for someone else to do it for you so you don’t lose ground to competitors. To decide whether you should go internal or external, you need to determine whether you have internal staff resources available to help solve the problem? If your social media budget is under £100 a month, find a way to keep it internal. You can offer a team member extra responsibility, training and possibly an incentive for success. If sourcing help internally isn’t an option, then you’ll need to define the available budget as x% of what revenue social should generate for your business. If your budget is between £100–£300 per month, then find a virtual assistant with social media skills on an hourly rate. If your budget is between £300–£600 per month, then a small local start-up agency should be able to help. However, if your budget is above £600 per month, you can engage larger, experienced agencies like Fix Our Social, for example. If you go with an external solution, then let them pitch you the plan. Avoid telling them what you think you need and allow them to understand your business objectives fully. Either way, ensure you create a tight brief around outcomes, Simon Hutchings is co-founder content types, with no approval of FixOurSocial Social Media processes, and measures of Management and will be speaking at Professional success. You need a frictionless Beauty London on the Digital Skills process and full trust in whoever Stage on Sunday, March 29, at 1pm. is going to help.

Having clients that come in for one service is a risky business because they may be going somewhere else for different things – so you’re not drilling down to exactly what that client needs. They can come in for years for that one service, but it only takes someone to buy them a gift voucher for somewhere else, or for someone to open up around the corner with a fantastic offer, and they will go elsewhere. Then they’ve got the embarrassment of coming back. However, if you have a client who comes in for two services, there’s a 75% chance that you’re going to keep them loyal. For three services, it’s 85%, and four services it’s 95%. So, look at what you can introduce clients to, rather than discounting. For example, if someone comes in for their nails regularly, then find something you can offer them as a treat, which is either going to be of higher value to them or take them to another part of the salon. Because if you’ve got someone just sitting at a nail desk every time, they’re not seeing anything else of your great business. For example, adding an eyebrow wax, which costs practically zero and takes a small amount of time, is worth £10 or £15 to that client. It’s also getting them to a different part of the salon and introducing them to a new service that they’re likely to carry on having.

Susan Routledge is a salon owner and business coach and will be speaking on the Business Skills seminar programme at PB London on Sunday, March 29, at 2pm.

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Business Tips

What are the benefits of adding henna to my treatment menu?

What type of vitamin C offering should I add to my salon? This skincare ingredient has been trending because it provides protection against free-radicals and offers intense and instant brightening. Because it’s very well tolerated and accepted by most skins, if you’re not offering some kind of vitamin C, you’re missing out. Regardless of your client’s skin condition or age, everyone is seeking brighter, healthier skin and that is why it is such a popular ingredient. One of the great factors with vitamin C is that it is readily available, which makes it very effective. However, it is broken down and oxidises quite quickly, which means it then won’t be used up by the skin. Some products may have a higher percentage of vitamin C; however, if it isn’t stable, that will limit how much it can work within the skin. Dermalogica uses two ultra-stable forms of vitamin C, and in our clinical studies it was shown to be three times more stable than a leading competitor. It was also shown to be three times more bio-available, so it can actually be used up by the skin. Janelle Couto is education Therefore, if you’re adding a training manager at Dermalogica. See vitamin C range to your business, Dermalogica’s new BioLumin you should seek products that Vitamin C Eye Serum at have stable forms of vitamin C to PB London on stand F5. deliver results.

The cosmetics market is growing at a rapid pace and every so often new and improved versions of treatments arise. I believe henna dye has revolutionised the approach to semi-permanent eyebrow colouring. Not only do I love this treatment myself, but I also do it on a daily basis for my clients. Classic lash and brow tints usually have a limited number of colours and in many of the varieties available on the market, a synthetic and hydrogen peroxide base is required to create the mixture, which can weaken eyebrow hairs. Henna dyes are usually more natural and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive. Different colours can be mixed together to achieve a bespoke colour for the client. Good formulations dye not only the hair, but also the skin, creating a tattoo effect last can last from five to two weeks. Look for a training provider that teaches comprehensive eyebrow styling, including eyebrow geometry and mapping. As a brow stylist, you will need to make very precise measurements, including drawing the perfect shape, width and length of the eyebrows, matched to the oval of the client’s face to create a personalised treatment for each client.

Monika Kupien is master educator and brand ambassador at Henna Couture, distributed by The Georgie Smedley Group. See Kupien on the Make-up, Lashes and Brows main stage on Sunday, March 29, at 11am.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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63 Interview

Talking to...

TERRI Clarke With a busy salon and boutique spa already under her belt, the owner of Lincoln-based Simpsons Beauty Group tells Eleanor Vousden why the time is right to branch out into aesthetics

aving run a Lincoln city-centre salon focused on express treatments for 16 years, and a nearby hotel-based spa for 13, Simpsons owner Terri Clarke is about to take her first foray into the medi-spa market. Simpsons Beauty, Aesthetics and Wellbeing Centre is set to open this month in nearby Hykeham, offering injectables and peels, alongside express beauty treatments. “There’s a state-of-the-art medical centre next door to the property and I saw this as an opportunity to create a salon more focused on aesthetics, health and wellness, which could work in conjunction with it,” said Clarke. Clarke’s relationship with the Simpsons brand began in 2004, when, after studying beauty and working as a therapist for four years, she heard about the proposed closure of the original Simpsons salon in Lincoln’s city centre.

Having originally gone in to purchase equipment from the owner, Clarke ended up falling in love with and acquiring the salon at just 20 years old. Although Simpsons had only been open for 10 months, Clarke decided to keep its original name, as it had good reputation locally, and began to transform the salon, which now offers a Champagne bar alongside its extensive treatment menu of facials, lashes, brows and more. Four years later, Clarke opened Simpsons’ second site, a boutique spa at Branston Hall – a country house hotel in Lincolnshire – which offers massages, facials and spa packages alongside its nails and brows offering. However, Clarke had always wanted to open a results-driven clinic, so when she noticed that Richmond Medical Centre, a doctor’s surgery in >

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Interview

Clockwise from top: Simspons Boutique spa at Branston Hall, Simpsons City Hall in Lincoln, Simpsons new Beauty, Aesthetics and Wellbeing Centre in Hykeham

Hykeham, was up for sale, she decided it would be the perfect site. “I have been looking for the last few years to open another branch, I’ve just been waiting for the right place to come up for sale in the right location,” she says. “We wanted to do something that’s a little bit different at the Hykeham branch. As well as offering the express treatments like we do at our city branch, we wanted a medi-spa brand that is more clinical.”

Growth plan

people on the go, those who are retired, and those who have a calmer or more hectic lifestyle, so we’ve just tried to really look at everybody’s needs and offer something in one of our locations that that suits their lifestyle.” The clientele varies between the sites, with the city salon attracting people popping in on their lunch break for express treatments, whereas those looking for relaxation will visit Branston Hall spa. However, Clarke saw a gap in the market for those looking for something more than a facial or massage. “When you start a new project, you learn every time what’s going to work better, and I’m now putting all that into the opening of Hykeham,” she says. Although the three branches crossover with their offerings, they will remain individual. “They will be very different, but they will still have the Simpsons feel, touch and attention to detail,” she says.

We have created a lot of job opportunities at the Hykeham branch, so we are offering all our staff at our existing sites the chance to apply to further their career

Clarke has invested £50,000 into the 3,000sq ft clinic, which will have nine treatment rooms, each designated to a specific service, and will offer resultsdriven facials and aesthetic treatments, from microneedling and peels to laser, teeth whitening and tanning beds. “We have an aesthetic nurse, Sarah Potts, who does two clinics a month at our existing branches,” she says. “She’s very popular, so she’ll run more clinics on a weekly basis at our new branch.” Like their other sites, the new business will also offer express beauty and will house three pedicure stations, six nail stations, two HD Brows chairs, and a coffee and champagne bar. Clarke is looking to employ up to 11 therapists at the site. The Hykeham area was ideal for Clarke, as the clinic is positioned near the busy A1 motorway and has free parking on site. “It’s in a completely different part of the city than my other branches, and I wanted to offer different clients something depending on what their needs were,” she says. “You have

Paving the way With the site opening later this month, and new treatments launching, there are still details to finalise. “Teeth whitening is a completely new thing to us, so we are in talks and arranging meetings with different suppliers at the moment, so we’ve got to go through those legislations in the coming weeks,” says Clarke. Thankfully, Clarke’s aesthetic nurse already has the licences to perform injectable treatments, so Simpsons has already been through many of the processes involved. “If customers are paying for a service, they need to get that from staff that are qualified and experienced,” says Clarke. “That’s what sets us apart from our competitors and makes the majority of people return to us.”

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Interview

This page clockwise from above: Simpsons city salon pedicure station, city salon retail area, Boutique spa garden, Boutique spa reception area

Simpsons is highly training-focused, and Clarke says this investment in her 38 therapists has served her well as she opens her third site. “I’m lucky that I have a loyal team – they tend to stay with me for a long time and work their way up in the company,” she says. “We have created a lot of job opportunities at the Hykeham branch, so we are offering all staff at our existing sites the chance to apply to further their career, and some will be relocating throughout the three branches. I’m lucky I haven’t got a brand new team going into Hykeham; they have been with me for a long time and know my standards.” Clarke has already appointed an area manager, Sally Swain, to oversee all three sites, Swain has worked with the business for 13 years, beginning as a therapist. Clarke has also appointed a manager for the Hykeham branch, who is returning to the Simpsons business following a stint as regional manager

for aesthetics supplier DermaQuest. “The aesthetics industry is new to me, so I’m lucky that she will be working alongside me to look at which product brands we bring in, and helping with staff training to make sure they are performing their treatments to the highest standard possible,” she says. Clarke has noticed a significant upsurge in demand for aesthetic treatments, and hopes the new site will attract clients willing to pay a high price for instant results. “Some people want more than just a beauty treatment, they want to see the results instantly,” she says. “Our aesthetic nurse does a lot of non-surgical facelifts using fillers and anti-wrinkle injections, and they cost more than £1,000, which is obviously a big outlay for customers to pay,” she says. “But the demand from people wanting to look younger has increased massively over the past few years. She is booked solid with those appointments on a regular basis, so it has definitely boosted the profit margins within our business.”

Onwards and upwards Clarke has big plans for the Simpsons brand, including opening a fourth site in the near future. “I’ve looked at branching out further afield to Nottingham, and I would really like to have a series of city branches in up-and-coming cities,” she says. Other plans include the development of a Simpsons training academy, and investment into the spa side of the business. “Out of all my three locations, my passion really lies in the spa industry,” she says. “So, I spend a lot of time at the spa and a lot of my ideas are focused there. I would love to expand and open another boutique spa somewhere a little further afield.” PB

KEY DATES 2002 Clarke qualifies as a beauty therapist and begins working in Saks salon in Lincolnshire 2004 Acquires Lincolnbased Simpsons City Centre Champagne Nail and Beauty Salon 2007 Simpsons Boutique Spa opens at Branston Hall Hotel 2017 Simpsons City Centre Champagne Nail & Beauty Salon wins PB’s North East Large Salon of the Year Award 2020 Simpsons Beauty, Aesthetics and Wellbeing Centre site set to open late March

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Why choose Lipofirm technology? Figure 2: external and internal pressure yielding optimal drainage

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Professional Beauty London 2020

What’s HOT for 2020 With more than 800 brands launching products, demonstrating treatments and offering business support, PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY LONDON is the must-attend event of the year SKINCARE For 2020, 4T Medical will bring its newly UK-launched Cebelia Comfort Cream, formulated to nourish, soothe and protect sensitive skin against environmental stress. Herbs2peel by Alex Cosmetics, a herbal peeling alternative to fruit acids and cosmetic devices, will be showcased at this year’s Professional Beauty London.

Apraise will bring its new Eye Serum, which lifts the upper eyelid, and Eye Cream, which includes white flower extracts and caffeine. You can also check out products including Power Serum, designed to enhance lash and brow growth.

AR&G will showcase its range of facial treatments, available in Cool Teatree, Gold, Collagen, Charcoal, Pearl and Vitamin C variations.

Beverly Hills Global will preview its V-Lift Instant Eye Lift, which includes bee venom to lift, plump and firm the eyelids. Bio&Ceuti will bring its CafeDame range to the show. It includes a whitening Moisture Cream and a wrinkle-tackling Nourish Cream. Skincare brand

Biologique Recherche will reveal its first tinted serum line, Sérums de Teint, which comes in five shades and includes an antipollution polysaccharide.

Bloom The Skin will bring both Skincok, a skincare range including facial masks, toners and gels, and Antiel, which includes make-up and sun creams. This year, Buddah Beauty will show off its new men’s range, as well as having a show-exclusive offer on its Facial Starter Kit: £45 instead of £63.

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Circadia, the skincare brand by Dr Pugliese, will offer an exclusive 10% discount on orders made at the show.

Cream, and offer free AntiAgeing Creams to those opening product packages.

Coscaldebio will bring the Microll to this year’s show, a derma intensive care facial roller using the microneedle therapy system principle.

Environ will demonstrate its updated ElectroSonic DF Treatments, combining gentle pulses and sound waves to drive active vitamins deep into the lower layers of the skin. Using microbiome and stem cell technology, Biotoc is an anti-ageing skin regime, and can be found at Dermafirm’s stand.

Professional Beauty London 2020

Aromatherapy brand Eve Taylor will be unveiling a new handheld device ultrasonic device at PB London, as well as showcasing its hero products.

Dermalogica’s latest releases, BioLumin-C Serum, a targeted eye treatment using a vitamin C complex and micro-algae extracts, and Phyto-Nature Firming Serum, powered by sapphire-bound biomimetic peptides, will be available to test.

TREND WATCH... LED innovations Not only are more brands using light therapy as part of their treatment offering, but many are optimising skincare to enhance the effects of LED too. Katherine Daniels has launched its PhotoDynamic Therapy System, which pairs lightactivated serums with LED to help target an array of skin concerns. Meanwhile, Germaine De Capuccini has launched its LED-Xpert Skin Light Therapy, an LED mask that is designed to be used alongside its products to maximise the results. Red light promotes rejuvenation, purple targets blemishes, green treats pigmentation, while orange reduces redness and sensitivity.

Fillmed will launch Nanosoft, a microneedle mesotherapy device, used with its NCTF 135 HA solution for the treatment of fine wrinkles and skin rejuvenation.

Having amassed a large following in Japan, Forlle’d will showcase its developments in nanotechnology, biofermentation and ionisation.

Visitors can check out the latest extension to Elemis’s Superfood collection, including the new Cica Calm cleanser and hydrating serum, as well as new products in the Peptide4 range. On top of showcasing Endor Technologies’ Celltense and Hyalgen serums, Elenzia will have its new Firming and Body Shaping

Spa ritual specialist Gemology Cosmetics will offer bespoke packages from £1,500 (VAT free), which include training and massages stones. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

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Professional Beauty London 2020

72 Germaine de Capuccini will showcase its latest launch, LED-Xpert Skin Light Therapy, and will be offering £1,000 worth of retail products for those who place an opening order over £2,000.

Greenestelle will exhibit its Trifoliate Orange Essential Oil, which offers atopic dermatitis sedation, is antiinflammatory and moisturises the skin.

Lovor Eco Cosmetics will present its range of natural skincare cosmetics, with collections tailored for men, women and children. Cannablissful Luxury Spa, the CBD massage range from Mighty Green, will be available, along with free CBD training and tool kits.

Guinot will have experts

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on hand to discuss its new free business coaching programme, as well as its upcoming one-hour anti-pollution treatment, which uses the Bioxygene skincare line.

CBD-based products including Anti Cellulite & Slimming Gel, Body Butter, Ice Muscle & Joint Gel, SOS Balm and Bath Salts.

Visit Image Skincare‘s stand to see its relaunched Ormedic collection, which includes organic ingredients such as grape water, aloe vera and a combination of soothing extracts.

De:Stress and Re:Fresh Bath & Shower Oils from the Bath-based Natural Spa Factory will be available, as well as the new “skin food superhero” Gotu Kola.

Janssen Cosmetics Naturalia Sintesi will showcase both its Second Life and Functional Massage Programmes, and offer 30% off homecare products and 20% off Professional Body Products.

will display its three-stage Detox skincare treatment kit, containing an AHA Detox Cleanser, Detox Enzyme Peeling and Black Detox Bubble Masks.

Niko Cosmetics will present the Wild Harvest

British beauty brand

Skin Care Collection, combining extracts of red sugar and stripped maple leaves to combat the breakdown of elastin in the skin.

Katherine Daniels will launch its Photo-Dynamic Therapy System, pairing an LED mask with light-activated concentrates. Lestari brings its pregnancy, postnatal

Oilaria will be showcasing products such as its sesame

and women’s wellness spa treatments to the show, including its Herbal Chest Rub and Nourishing Cleansing Oil.

grounds-based body and face scrubs and oil lotion.

The Linseed Farm will show products such as Natural Linseed Cream, which comes as Unscented or Chamomile and Lavender, and its Linseed Soap Bar.

Pevonia will run three special offers for new customers placing an opening order, including £1,000 worth of promotional materials and an additional 10–20% worth of free products (professional or retail). >

Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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EXCEL LONDON 29-30 MARCH 2020

Gelish® and Morgan Taylor® introduces the Editor’s Picks collection for Spring 2020. From the runways to real life, this collection takes center stage with sophisticated luxurious hues.

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Professional Beauty London 2020

76 Prebioforce by Phytomer, a balancing soothing concentrate that contains a marinebased prebiotic complex for rebalancing skin’s microflora, will launch at the show. A new facial care range from Pico Bio Co called Pepplus will launch at Professional Beauty London, high in peptides and designed to brighten skin tone and improve wrinkles.

SKN-RG will offer 25% off for visitors who quote code PB at its stand at the show, as well as launching its Evolution Range and Men’s Range and treatment.

Sothys will showcase

TREND WATCH...

Detox Energie - a 75-minute treatment to help defend skin against environmental stress, plus a homecare range of five products.

CBD goes professional With the global CBD skincare market forecasted to reach $959 million (£741m) by 2024, according to data from strategic consultancy firm Prohibition Partners, cannabidiol has cemented its place as the go-to beauty ingredient of the moment. Now, CBD oil is making its mark in the professional salon and spa realm, with a host of niche and popular hemp-infused ranges launching at the show. Natural wellness brand Mighty Green will talk visitors through its CBD massage range Cannablissful Luxury Spa, while Vitality CBD will showcase its CBD-infused cleansers, exfoliators and body creams. Meanwhile, Mothersage will bring CBD-based products including Anti Cellulite & Slimming Gel – a serum enriched with cannabidiol and microalgae to stimulate the breakdown of fat.

Alongside a Biocellulose Mask and Dermapen,

Summacosmetics will bring a wide range of facial and eye treatments to this year’s show. Thalgo will launch Spiruline Boost, a range designed to tackle signs of ageing linked to an urban lifestyle such as pollution, fatigue and stress. With 12 new products, Vitality CBD will show its organic hemp-infused range, including cleanser, exfoliator, bath salts, body cream and dry skin cream.

Purles will showcase G-Peel, a chemical exfoliation for mature and oily skin with signs of ageing and blemishes.

Sanatio Naturalis will bring two new organic facial skincare products: Precious Oil Treatment and Miracle Jojoba Radiance Essence. This year, SBC is launching a complete body therapy kit and Hyaluronic Hyrda Mist, which is a 300ml spray that hydrates the skin while tackling fine lines and wrinkles.

YsBio will show Ms Healing by Dr Youth, a range that focuses on joints and is built on knowledge of antiageing by experienced aromatherapists. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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03/02/2020 17:14

Professional Beauty London 2020

78 DEVICES Visitors to the 3D-lipo stand will get a preview its new 3D-Powersculpt device, as well as the recently launched 3D-HydrO2 and 3D-Ultimatepro machines. New launches from

Advanced Esthetics Solutions include multi-tech platforms Lipofirm MED+ and Q-30 EVO. There will also be demos of Lipofirm PRO, Lipofirm MED, Divine PRO and geneO. The Baldan Group will showcase product and treatment ranges that span machines, dermocosmetic formulas and nutritional lines.

TREND WATCH... Hydro boom The popularity of deeply hydrating machinebased facials continues to grow, and there are plenty to discover at this year’s show. Medical Aesthetic Group’s new H2 Aquasure combines hydrogen with hydration, galvanic current, alpha and beta hydroxy acid cleansing and nutrient delivery in a 45-minute session; while Opatra’s new Aqua Spectra combines hydromicrodermabrasion with radiofrequency, a hydro-oxygen jet spray, ultrasonic, skin scrub and “cold hammer” functions. And don’t miss 3D-lipo’s 3D-HydrO2 facial machine, which launched last year and will be demoed at the show. It features hydro peel, oxygenation and hydration using ultrasound for product infusion.

Visitors can check out Cynosure’s StimSure – an electromagnetic bodycontouring device that delivers 24,000 contractions in 20 to 30 minutes to tone muscles.

Laser specialist Best Brothers will showcase MeDioStar Monolith for hair removal and skin and vascular rejuvenation; QuandroStar Pro Yellow for veins and pigmentation; and Studio for tattoo and pigment removal.

Biotec Italia will launch new devices including the multi-tech Coaxmed Elite and the hair-removal and skin-rejuvenation device Inlight, as well as offering an exclusive show offer on its Xlase Plus-Supreme device.

CACI will showcase Synergy, which uses simultaneous photo-electrical delivery, combining its original toning technology with pulsed LED light stimulation for skin rejuvenation.

Dermalux will showcase its hero Flex MD product, an entry-level LED phototherapy device that is portable and can be used on face and body. Excelsior Medical Group will bring the Eye Timeless machine, designed to enhance and define eyes, and the Twinkle machine, which improves skin cell production.

Haim International’s Deolipo offers treatment of Laser specialist Candela will showcase a wide range of devices at this year’s show, including VelaShape III, PicoWay, eTwo and Gentle Lasers.

localised fat deposits and improves the contours of the face.

House of Famuir Celluma will bring Celluma Delux, a flexible, full-coverage light therapy panel, as well as offering show-only special offers on all of its devices.

will bring Apilus Xcell for hair removal, as well as its Opti-vizion HD Camera and its Retinol product line.

KC Technology will Crystal Clear’s Comcit Elite, which firms, hydrates and lifts skin, will be on show, as well its recently extended skincare menu and treatments.

be on-hand to share information on its recent developments, including dermascopes, trichoscopes and hair implantation or transplantation analysis.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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See LPG Endermologie at this year’s show for a demonstration of the Cellu M6 Alliance machine, its triple-action skin fitness solution.

Lumenis will offer a look into its wide range of machines, with demonstrations of the NuEra tight, Splendor X, Lightsheer Quattro and the M22 available to experience.

Oxyjet will offer £1,000 off its OXYjet Leo device, 15% off the OXYjet GO machine and charge just £500 for the Absolute Effects retail pack. The Spanish-based Sapphire Group will display the BellActionDuo, for facial and body remodelling, and Diode Laser LS-1200, for hair removal.

Laser and IPL specialist Lynton will bring its Lumina, Motus AY, 3Juve, Initia and Promax devices to this year’s Professional Beauty London.

Sculpt Pro Aesthetics will

LV College’s new courses are Scalp

show its new Cryo Quattro machine, featuring 360º cooling applicators for slimming effects.

Micropigmentation and Plasma Fibroblast. Both are two-day courses and will be available for a discount when booked at the show.

Skyncare’s

Following successful trials in a central London clinic,

Sculptura works towards a higher activation of new collagen formation and fat cell metabolism while reducing treatment times.

Medical Aesthetic Group is set to launch its hydrogen -harnessing H2 Aquasure at this year’s show. Get 50% off all training and up to 20% off products when you visit the Mesoskinline stand. The company will also hold live demonstrations. Device specialist Neo Elegance will bring its hydradermabrasionbased Aqua Glow Treatment, as well as its Neofirm Skin Tightening treatment and Lumineo LED System.

Opatra’s new Aqua Spectra machine combines multiple treatments including hydromicrodermabrasion, radiofrequency, bipolar radiofrequency and ultrasonic, among others, with benefits including deep cleansing and exfoliation.

Professional Beauty London 2020

The Accor and SmartMeso machines will be showcased by The Smart Group, with a chance to win each machine exclusively at the show.

Unique Skin will have offers on microneedling device Exceed, as well as 15% off its cryotherapy-tailored Freezpen.

The Wellness Tree Group will exhibit its Hyperbaric Oxygen Chamber and Light Therapy Facial Unit at this year’s show. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty London 2020

80 NAILS, HANDS & FEET Visitors to the Andreia Professional stand can experience The Gel Polish, which has no odour or solvents while maintaining four weeks of wear and a highly pigmented colour.

Beauty Select will offer demonstrations of its Callus Peel range, including Skin Softener, Moisture Cream and Callus Removal Peel Kit, as well as providing an offer on starter kits.

Nail Harmony will reveal its rebrand to Georgie Smedley Group, with a portfolio including Gelish, Lash eXtend, All That Jazz, ProHesion, GHG, Aeropuffing and Urban Nails. There will be offers including Aeropuffing kits for £120; 10% off training and 50% off All That Jazz.

Crystal Nails will offer a 20% discount on all products, including new launches such as Magic Stripes Stickers, 3Step Crystalac Colours and Milky Rose Builder Gel. The Mardi Gras Collection, including fine, chunky and dot glitters, and Bio Glitter, for nail and cosmetics, can be found at the Essence Glitter stand this year.

TREND WATCH... Building on builder gels Builder gels continue to grow in popularity and this year nail brands are bringing smarter formulations and innovations to the table, with new enhancements and technology to enable a professional finish. Crystal Nails’ Milky Rose Builder Gel can be cured in a thick layer, whereas Mylee’s Builder Gel is a multi-purpose product, which can be used as a base coat, a top coat, to mould or to extend and encapsulate embellishments. Lecenté’s Create Builder Gel helps strengthen nails and is easy to file and shape, while Pure Nails’ Halo EasiBuild uses technology that is effective on both natural nails and extensions, with a flexible and lightweight finish.

Mineral Dipping System Lart Supreme, which reduces the number of liquid preparations and includes colour powders with mineral ingredients, will be on show.

Lecenté will launch its Create Builder Gel, a long-lasting, safe, soak-off product that can be used as an overlay or to create enhancements with tips or by sculpting. Visit Mylee to experience the Builder Gel, a five-inone product that is designed for quick and easy use.

Nails by Annabel will offer 15% off gel-polish, 10% off other products and training, and goodie bags that increase in value the more you spend.

Footlogix will promote its Pediceuticals line that uses Dermal Infusion Technology, which is nonocclusive, non-greasy, hygienic and effective.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty London 2020

82 MAKE-UP

Grafton International will launch its ’90s inspired Orly spring collection Feel the

Essex-based Academy S will talk through its permanent make-up, semi-permanent make-up and microblading training opportunities, as well offering a £300 discount.

Beat, including purple crèmes and lilac shimmers alongside warm neutrals.

Clicka will present a range of make-up tools, including brushes, eyeliner and lip liner, that are easy to use and prevent damage and dust.

Pure Nails will bring its 8ml Halo EasiBuild to this year’s show, as well as the new Halo PoliBuild and First Bloom, its newest Halo Gel Polish, featuring six pastel shades.

LASHES AND BROWS Ebin will show off its Cattention 3D Lashes range, as well as its Secret of Pharoah eye shadow palette and 24 Hour Edge Tamer at Professional Beauty London 2020. All-new Lana Lashes will showcase its 60 minutes treatment system, which combines extensions, perming/lifting, colour and permanent mascara for a time-efficient process.

Lashfactor’s nanotechnologybased Eyelash Enhancing Serum and Lash + Brows Enhancing Serum will be available for a 10% discount at this year’s show. London Volume will be the primary focus for Novalash at this year’s show, offering extensions that are dark, dense and fluffy.

Oh My Lash will show its Flutter, Luxe, Soulmate, Girl Power, Signature, Girl Boss, Selfie, Fierce and Date Night lashes, as well as the Day to Night Set.

For its first trade show under its new UK subsidiary, Inika Organic will showcase its natural and organic make-up products and launch its 100% natural skincare line.

TREND WATCH... Natural growth With consumer demand for “clean beauty” continuing to boom, you can check out a host of natural and organic lash and make-up launches at the show. Australian mineral make-up brand Inika Organic is back, with a new UK subsidiary and big plans for expansion. As well as a host of new make-up launches, from concealers to brushes, the brand will debut its first ever skincare line. Popular mineral make-up brand Jane Iredale will also be back, introducing its spring collection of fresh pink and taupe shades. The Sample Beauty stand is also worth a look as you can see new vegan make-up launches including an eyeshadow palette. IIAA will unveil Jane Iredale’s Spring Collection at the show, ideal for adding a pop of colour for the new season, as well as new Queen Bee Pure Pressed Blush. California-based Mahi Naturals will showcase its full range, launch new shades and offer up to 30% off the RRP of products. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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The Power of One Multiple Aesthetic Technologies in a Single Powerful Platform

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Designed and manufactured in the San Francisco Bay Area, USA, our world-leading portfolio of laser & energybased aesthetic devices provide professionals with the innovation, quality, and performance required to provide unrivalled clinical results for their patients.

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Professional Beauty London 2020

84 Pinnacle Cosmetics will bring premium make-up to the show, with the opportunity to have your brand name printed professionally on each product.

Sample Beauty will offer up to 50% off its wide range of make-up products, as well as launching never-seen-before products, including a new vegan eyeshadow palette. Make-up brand Touch in SOL will bring a number of products to this year’s show, including Pretty Filter Glassy Skin Balm, Metallic Sparkling Foiled Pigment and No Poreblem Primer.

TREND WATCH... Sugaring vs waxing Sugaring is making a comeback as beauty lovers seek out alternative treatments to waxing that are eco-friendly too. Aqua Natural is returning to the show this year, bringing a wide range of natural and vegan sugaring products including Natural Strip Sugaring, while the London Sugaring Company will demo its organic, vegan and Fair Trade sugar paste, Tamara’s Sugar. Waxing pros can also get their hands on the latest strip waxes that promise a perfect finish. Outback Organics is launching two gelformulated strip waxes exclusively at the show – shimmery purple Amethyst and molten lava orange Amber – that apply thinly and leave no sticky residue, while Perron Rigot will showcase its hypo-allergenic Fiorella Non-Strip Wax.

Experience Myca Wax’s ranges at the show, including Tropilicious Crème Hard Wax, Berylicious Film Wax, Cocolicious Crème Strip Wax and Blue Ocean Strip Wax.

WAXING Aqua Natural will bring a range of sugaring products including its Natural Strip Sugaring, Pure Fine Talc and Soothing Mist, as well as a Starter Kit.

Ashmira Botanica will showcase its River Moss strip wax and Seagrass peelable wax, both of which have a soft, creamy texture and are completely vegan. Don’t miss out on an exclusive offer from Australian Bodycare at this year’s show: join an Intimate Waxing

Outback Organics will launch two new gelformulated strip waxes named Amethyst, which is a shimmery purple, and Amber, which is a molten lava orange. Perron Rigot will launch Fiorella Non-Strip Wax, a hypo-allergenic formula that is rosin-free and has a smooth, easy-to-apply formula for fuss-free waxing.

Course for just £190, saving £25. Visitors can shop Hive’s full suite of products, including the Dual Digital Wax Pot Heater 1,000cc & 500cc, the recently updated Oritree range and Dual LashLift System, as well as a new launch for the show.

Skinsoothies will make its official launch at Professional Beauty London, an aftercare cooling aid used in waxing and microblading to reduce redness and sooth skin.

Lycon will showcase its Ingrown-X-it range, including the Ingrown-X-it Foaming Gel, a salicyclic acid and lemon tea tree-infused gel that helps clear pore blockages and prevent ingrown hairs.

A wide range of products will be showcased by Wax:one, including hot and strip waxes, tweezers, aprons, equipment cleaner and a dual wax heater. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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LEARN TO SPRAY THE CRAZY ANGEL WAY! # at a n fo reve r y to n e Habia Accredited Spray Tanning Course Professional & Retail Ranges Increased ProďŹ ts Marketing & Social Support AV K I A TS TO I L A BU BL Y! E

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Professional Beauty London 2020

86 SOFTWARE & BUSINESS

TANNING Crazy Angel will be available to discuss its newly updated training opportunities, offering free spray tans from brand ambassador Abbie McCann, and selling a range of self-tan products.

Cyrano will bring megasun P9 to this year’s show, a solarium in collaboration with Studio F.A. Porsche that “combines a unique design with outstanding technical performance.”

Ergoline will launch two new machines at the show. Prestige Lightvision blends red light with UV to deliver a radiant, natural suntan, while Prestige Bluevision combines UV with blue light via 120 LEDs for faster tanning. Don’t miss Norvell’s new Oasis Airbrush Spray Tanning Gun. Shaped like a hairdryer, it makes the tanning application quick and easy with a micro-fine diffuser.

NUTRITION

Specialist insurance broker Balens will be available to discuss its insurance services for both individual and business requirements.

Beauty Buddy will showcase its award-winning app, which offers trusted peer reviews, a barcode for in-store product information, and up-to-date brand and product news. The Beauty Click is an online platform supporting self-employed professionals, and will offer discounted memberships and training, with up to 30% off.

Glambolt is a bookings app that connects freelance beauty and hair professionals with consumers. Talk to the team at the show.

ITEC and VTCT will talk visitors through the latest advances in its qualification portfolios and resources, as well as the new Beauty Apprenticeship Standards. Come and chat to North Kent College about the educational and training opportunities that aim to equip beginners for a future in the industry.

Phorest will promote its free 30Days2Grow challenge,

Advanced Nutrition Programme (ANP) will bring Skin Moisture Lock, as well as duo pack Skin Moisture Lock Plus, which also includes Skin Omegas+. Nutrition company Beauty9 will bring Sweet B Dung, which uses psyllium husk powder from the seeds of plantago ovata. Lady Goong by Lady House will be showcased at this year’s Professional Beauty, combining natural herbal ingredients and plant stem cells to fight infection.

which involves daily tasks designed to help meet targets and encourage business growth, as well as offering one-on-one consultations.

Shortcuts Salon Software will be on-hand to offer its expertise and advice at the show, as well as having exclusive offers on the day.

EQUIPMENT & SUPPLIES Allix will bring Hoobis to the show, a vacuum for quick spills and cleaning without kicking up dust. Towelling specialist BC Softwear has created SmartKnit towels as part of its energy-saving SmartSoft collection. Key claims include energy savings of 8.5% and 9.2% faster drying time. >

Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty London 2020

88 Don’t miss the Beauty Spring stand this year, with a wide range of scissors, brushes, files and more available.

Bonne is a specialist in cosmetics, personal care, hair care, fragrance, tools and accessories. See its collections in the Korean pavilion.

Take advantage of the exclusive 10% discount on all Majestic Towels show orders, with its wide range of products set to be showcased.

Matrix brings a new DazzleMe Teeth Whitening’s kits offer

way to draw clients to cycling classes with its CXP Target Training Cycle, combining ergonomics, comfort and serviceability.

10-minute whitening, active stain removal and are vegan and cruelty free.

Duncan Stewart will show its pillows, including Half Moon Bolster and Half Moon Nail, all of which use Aztex memory foam and an additional layer of cover.

Rare Gear’s RG Aroma Diffusers will be the brand’s main focus for this year’s show, which come equipped with humidifiers and colour changing lights.

EcoKnit’s full range of eco-friendly spa towels and robes, which have 40% reduced drying times and energy costs, will be launched at Professional Beauty.

REM will bring Plaza Pepispa Unit, a booth-style pedi seat with a ceramic basin, and the Florence Nail Bar, available as a one- or two-position unit with storage. Shared Beauty Secrets will offer the Sensory Retreats Divine Escape Spa Starter box for just £150, which includes a choice of online and practical, hands-on training.

The Gharieni Triple Detox Therapy i3Dome, combining far infrared technology with plasma and light therapy and requiring no therapists during the treatment, will be showcased. The Hydrotherm Heatpad System, comprising two hydrotherm cushions and one lumbar support, will be previewed at this year’s show.

Lemi will be launching Spa Dream, a treatment bed that combines the benefits of water and quartz with a heating plate and chromotherapy. It has electric height adjustment.

Teal’s new Handspa is a hand-washing sink specially designed for homebased therapists. No plumbing is needed and it can be plugged into a normal 13-amp socket. Visit Well Packaging Company for items such as Paper box with preserved flowers, as well as Round tube box with ribbon. PB

Professional Beauty London takes place on March 29–30 at ExCeL London. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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BOOST YOUR SALON REVENUE WITH THE REVOLUTIONARY LANA LIFT EYE LASH ENHANCEMENT TREATMENT. “The ONLY lash treatment of its kind that lifts, curls, lengthens and also adds colour, texture and volume in ONE treatment session! And to top it off, Lana Lift creates waterproof lashes that are a breeze to apply and last longer than traditional lashes!”

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World Spa & Wellness London 2020

WORLD

Spa & Wellness

CONVENTION 2020

Network, learn and grow your spa business with leading voices from across the world

oin us at ExCeL exhibition centre in London on March 29–30 at the World Spa & Wellness Convention (WSWC) 2020 and hear from industry leaders about how we can tackle the challenges facing the spa and wellbeing industry. The WSWC will take place alongside Professional Beauty London and has been designed to help you find the answers relevant to your business. After the success of the revamped format for last year’s programme, the WSWC will once again be split into two streams, to give delegates the opportunity to choose the key topic areas needed to grow their businesses. Stream one: The business of spa: practical solutions to help tackle business issues. Stream two: Wellness in spa: a focus on client experience to boost client acquisition and retention. Both streams will be packed with expert panels, keynote speakers and roundtable “Situation Rooms”, that will provide targeted advice for spa operators to implement into their businesses.

will be showing you how you and your teams can to strive for excellence, and for those looking for leadership inspiration, performance coach and international speaker Jean Pierre De Villiers will be on hand to show you how improving your leadership skills can create ripples in your business.

PANELS Looking to incorporate fitness into your spa offering? Don’t miss “The Business of Spa: Movement & Fitness” panel on the Sunday, March 29. Christophe Andanson, founder of Group Planet Fitness, Kilian

KEYNOTE SPEAKERS The programme includes a roster of keynote speakers who will be sharing their expertise on the hot topics of the industry. International speaker and author Dr Bryan Williams

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Fisher, international public policy advisor of the IHRSA, and James Blower, sales director of hospitality and wellness at Matrix, will be discussing the topic with chair Emlyn Brown, global vice president of Accor. Meanwhile, find out how your business can become more sustainable at the “Sustainability: What Your Spa Can Implement Today” panel in the Wellness and Spa Stream on Monday, March 30. Joanna Roche, chairperson of the Green Spa Network, Gareth Presch, founder and chief executive of the World Health Innovation Summit, and Caroline Cornish, spa manager of the Scarlet Spa, will share simple ways we can all make the spa industry more environmentally friendly.

SITUATION ROOMS Both days of the programme will commence with Situation Rooms; an opportunity for delegates to join a

roundtable of directors from day, hotel and resort spas, allowing them to engage in the session most suitable to their own business. Sunday’s session will cover how to ramp up a successful spa opening. Join Jenya Di Pierro of London’s Cloud Twelve Club, who will be speaking about how to implement this in the day spa room. The city/hotel spa session will include expertise from Sven Huckenbeck of Ensana and Diane Nettleton of Gaia Spa at Boringdon Hall, and you can join Marina Efraimoglou of Euphoria Retreat and hear her advice at the resort spa session. Monday’s situation room will show you how to achieve a strategic turnaround in your business. Hear from Pauline Wallace of Spa Experience by Better and Becky Woodhouse of Pure Spa & Beauty in the day spa room, and join Jill Carlen of Hilton Spas and Virginie Descombes Fliegans of Bulgari Paris for the city/hotel spa session. Meanwhile, in the resort spa room, you can join Zoe Wall of Spa Asia and Erica D’Angelo of Borgo Egnazia Italy.

World Spa & Wellness London 2020

We asked two speakers to share what they will be speaking about and what you will learn at the WSWC.

THIERRY MALLERET is the managing partner of the Monthly Barometer and he will be a keynote speaker on Monday, March 30 In his keynote speech, Malleret will be speaking about why wellness may become compulsory. It will help spa business owners to view the big picture of the wellness landscape and the contextual intelligence they need to thrive in tomorrow’s world. “From economic and societal to environmental and technological, I will be speaking about the different macro trends that drive the expansion of wellness and wellbeing,” he says. “The climate emergency, widening geopolitical fault lines, social inequities and the rise of tech and anxiety about jobs: these are all forcing policy-makers, investors and business leaders to recognise and act on wellbeing as an antidote to today’s ills. Therefore, decisions and policies destined to improve social and individual welfare are one of tomorrow’s big global mega trends.”

LARA MORGAN is a wellness investor and co-owner and founder of Scentered UK. She will be speaking on the ‘Finance – The Investor View’ panel on Monday, March 30 Morgan will be discussing how to attract a great investor. “You’ve got to turn up with a really well-practised pitch and know your USP,” she says. “What’s the real point of differentiation that makes your product better or different? You’ve got to passionately represent what you’re doing – investors will invest in people first; the product comes next.” Morgan also highlights the importance of approaching the right investor for your business. “Where are you at in your journey and what are you looking for? There is no point in talking to a large investor if you’re at a very early stage, and there is no point in talking to a smaller investor when you’re much further along the journey,” she says. “You have to be much more selective and clever about how you spend your time talking to people.” PB

The 2020 World Spa & Wellness Convention takes place at ExCeL London on March 29–30, alongside the Professional Beauty trade show. A two-day pass to the event is £297, while a one-day pass can be purchased for £225. Secure your ticket at worldspawellness.com/London

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS:

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Professional Beauty London 2020

Watch

& LEARN With a host of expert talks and live stages, it’s time to take your skills to the next level at Professional Beauty London

ooking to advance your business in 2020? Don’t miss Professional Beauty London’s standout education line-up, taking place at ExCeL London on March 29-30. Visitors can learn the trade secrets needed to take a spa, salon or freelance business to the next level. Here’s a taste of what you can learn from our expert-led programme.

LIVE STAGES AND SEMINARS Business Skills Programme Learn the tricks to build your client list and boost your profits with Phorest’s content marketing manager, Christopher Brennan, on Sunday, March 29, at 2pm. Join Kerry Beavis, award-winning therapist and founder of home-based salon The Revive Co, on how to network and find the support if you’re going it alone on Sunday, March 29, at 4pm.

DON’T MISS Increase your client spend through trust and loyalty with Lyndsey Flannery, professional educator at SBC, on Monday, March 30, at 1pm. “Join us to learn how to drive client loyalty and propel your

business by putting the heart of being a therapist back into the treatment room and deliver first-class experiences to each individual client,” says Flannery.

Digital Skills Programme Having a great online and social media presence has become imperative to business success. Sharpen up your social strategy with Mayir Vohra, founder and digital business consultant, Aspya Digital, on Monday, March 30 at 2pm, and learn how to target new clients with Facebook Ads. Want to know how to deal with negative comments on social media? Michelle Brookes will be on hand on Sunday, March 29, at 3pm to discuss how to handle confrontation online.

DON’T MISS How website content will bring you more clients, with Akesha Reid, digital editor of HJI, on Monday, March 30, at 3pm. “Adding regular content to your website might seem like just another thing to add to your neverending to-do list, but it can be a highly lucrative way of attracting new clients through SEO,” says Reid. “It doesn’t have to be time-consuming either – in this talk you’ll learn how to convert content into clients.” >

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Professional Beauty London 2020

96 DON’T MISS How to customise nail forms for all types of enhancements with Katie Barnes, owner of Katie Barnes Training Academy and PB Nail Professional of the Year 2018, on Monday, March 30, at 11am. “I will demonstrate the techniques required to achieve the perfect form fit and application for the two most popular salon shapes, almond and square,” says Barnes.

“How to...” Programme From waxing and nail art to microblading and tanning, learn with our line-up of experts who will show you how to perfect each of your treatment offerings. Additionally, learn about how CBD can change your salon and spa treatment menu with Claudia Le Feuvre, co-founder of Mighty Green, and Izzi Mousdell, chief operating officer of The Infinity Group Girbraltar, on Sunday, March 29, at 2pm.

DON’T MISS Top tips to perfect your intimate waxing skills, with Louise Wendt de Oliveira, head of treatments at NKD () waxing, on Sunday, March 29, at 12pm. “I’ll be going back to basics on the application and removal techniques – from how to angle your spatula to the correct type of pressure to use – to avoid any unnecessary discomfort for your clients,” says Wendt de Oliveira. A Prize Draw will be held to win a place on a female intimate waxing training course at NKD () academy in Nottingham.

Nail Skills Programme Nail the new-season trends with our line-up of the industry’s best nail experts. Theresa Foddering, owner of The NailDresser and Lecenté ambassador, will be demonstrating neon nail trends, while Georgie Smedley, director of the Georgie Smedley Group, will show you speedy yet effective nail art designs that you can effortlessly implement into your business.

Lashes, Brows & Make-up Live Stage Stay ahead of the competition with the latest innovations and expertise from the lash, brow and make-up pros. From bridal make-up for mature clients to henna brow techniques, these talks will help your business stay ahead of the curve.

DON’T MISS Brow lamination – the game-changing brow trend, with Corinne Morley, head of sales and marketing, The Eyelash Design Company, on Monday, March 30, at 1pm. “Brow lamination is the trending treatment that realigns brow hairs into the perfect shape and keeps them in place. Find out more and watch a live demo at this talk,” says Morley.

Advanced Treatments Stage Sponsored by:

Thinking about adding advanced treatments to your business? Hear all about the latest innovations and how you can achieve the best results from our programme’s leading experts.

DON’T MISS Chemical peels – how to get the best results with Martine Jarman, owner of SkinGenius, on Sunday, March 29, at 1pm. This session will show you step by step how to get the best results and avoid the common errors that arise when performing the treatment. >

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Professional Beauty London 2020

98 IMF The International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) provides an opportunity for brand owners, distributors and retailers to network and learn practical business solutions. A one-day ticket costs £145+VAT, two-day ticket £195+VAT. Book at professionalbeauty.co.uk/imfprogramme

HJ and Modern Barber Stages Education Forum Sponsored by:

Watch live presentations from some of the best hair and barbering teams in the country. For example, the HJ stage will feature names such as Mark Wooley and Georgia Bell.

Lecturers, join your fellow college heads and leading employers to discuss challenges, raise awareness and identify opportunities for students. A full day ticket costs £10: see the full programme and book at professionalbeauty.co.uk/educationforum

Salon and Spa Connect Discuss the biggest trends and challenges facing the industry with likeminded owners in our Salon and Spa Connect forum. With topics such as sustainability and staff recruitment and retention, this is the perfect opportunity to share solutions and network. Tickets costs £25 (inc VAT). Book now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/London

Live stages and seminars cost £5 per session or £1 for students/lecturers. Book your place at professionalbeauty.co.uk/seminars

NEW FOR 2020 Salon Business Workshops In association with salon owner and business coach Susan Routledge, the Salon Business Workshops will help you increase rebookings, team motivation and profits. Routledge will be joined by author Marianne Page and HR consultant Sue Ingram. Two workshops will be available to book for £20 each on Sunday, March 29.

Funding your future Brands or spas looking for funding options for their business should not miss this one-day event (March 30) covering crowd funding, angel investments and private equity. Tickets cost £295+VAT. Book now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/funding

Cosmetics, Ingredients and Packaging Learn what it takes to launch your own beauty brand. This oneday conference (March 30) will cover the best routes to market, common pitfalls and latest in cosmetic regulation. Tickets cost £145+VAT. Book now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/cipi

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Professional Beauty London 2020

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Front

RUNNER

Raise your profile in the industry by entering Professional Beauty London’s competitive lash, make-up and nail competitions. Here’s what you need to know…

NAIL COMPETITION

Sponsored by:

Top talent will once again go head to head to be crowned the UK’s best lash artists at the two-day Lash Competition, taking place at PB London. This is your chance to demonstrate your extension mastery in classic, Russian and Volume styles, with three divisions in each category to suit all skill levels. CATEGORIES AND DIVISIONS: • Classic: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions • Russian 2D–4D: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions • New Volume: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions Price: Expert/Professional: £75 per category I Novice: £25 Entry deadline: Thursday, March 20

TOP TIP from competition director Heather Hughes Watch the clock “My top piece of advice is to practise your look on your model two or three times prior to the competition, working to the time limits so you’re comfortable with the tight schedule on the day. This is an amazing opportunity to test your skills, build your profile and gain valuable industry experience.”

MAKE-UP COMPETITION The one-day (Monday, March 30) student Make-Up Competition at PB London is the perfect opportunity for budding MUAs to show off their creativity. Judges will be looking for particular application techniques in each category. For example, in Bridal, the hair, make-up and outfit are all key for the final scoring; while in Editorial, you need to bring a comprehensive mood board with you that explains your final look and product choices. CATEGORIES AND DIVISIONS: • Bridal: Bridal Evolution – a day look that can be transformed into an evening one using just three products. • Editorial: Spring Fever – a spring look designed for a magazine shoot using seasonal colours and textures. • Art of Illusion: Inspiring Beauty – your bold vision of what inspirational beauty looks like. The work can only be done on the model’s head and shoulders. Price: £20 per category (which includes a £10 show voucher that can be spent on the Monday of the show) Entry deadline: Tuesday, March 24 Enter now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/competitions

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Menopause

106

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Menopause

107

CHANGE of

pace

The menopause can play havoc with skin, causing sensitivity, acne and dryness. Help clients manage the symptoms by switching them to a regime designed to nourish oestrogen-depleted complexions, writes Amanda Pauley

ith more than half (60%) of UK women confessing to not knowing what early or premature menopause is, according to research conducted by Surrey-based clinic Health & Aesthetics, there has never been a more prudent time to talk about the change. Although the menopause will affect every woman, it’s still a subject that isn’t discussed in the mainstream media as much as it should be, often seen as taboo. “Discussion about the menopause has been an avoided topic with significant health and wellbeing consequences,” says Candice Gardener, education manager for skincare brand Dermalogica. “For many women, this means they don’t know what to expect and may not be aware of the steps to take that can help them manage the symptoms.” But this cycle of confusion needs to stop, and the salon and spa environment is the ideal place to educate women on what to expect. The menopause is a natural part of ageing that usually occurs between 45 and 55 years of age, causing oestrogen levels to decline, marking the end of a woman’s menstrual cycle. Vital hormones – oestrogen, progesterone and testosterone – start to fluctuate, leading to a number of physical and mental changes. “This nosedive in hormones causes havoc with the body as it struggles to rebalance and it affects

absolutely everything – wellbeing, mood, sleep, digestion, sex drive, energy, memory and, of course, the skin,” explains Tracy Tamaris, director of education at the International Institute of Anti-Ageing (IIAA), which distributes vitamin A-rich skincare range Environ.

How does perimenopause affect the skin? With there being a staggering “51 different symptoms of menopause, including one where it feels as if ants are crawling on your skin”, according to Spire Nottingham Hospital menopause specialist Dr Joanne Hobson, the change will affect everyone differently, which means you need to be responsive in your approach to treating clients in salon. The skin will have different requirements during perimenopause, known as the transition phase, and menopause, which the NHS say women reach when they haven’t had a period for 12 months, marking the end of their menstrual cycle. “The perimenopause is known as the beginning of the change, which can start as early as 35 and last for as long as 10 years. Changes are starting to happen in the body and many clients won’t be aware it’s a perimenopausal state they are in,” says skin specialist Martine Jarman, owner of SkinGenius Clinic in Cheshire. During this phase, there can be a surge of reproductive hormones, which fluctuate wildly – “it’s >

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Menopause

108 the body’s way of saying, ‘this is your last chance to get pregnant, time is running out’,” explains Gardener. “The skin can become more sensitised and respond unpredictably to treatments and products, and the symptoms will vary depending on whether there are high or low oestrogen levels. For some, the vascular hyperactivity can cause issues like telangiectasia (thread-like red lines or patterns on the skin) and rosacea to develop.”

before choosing your skincare protocol. Also, be aware that the changing hormones can lead to difficulties maintaining the water balance in the body, which can result in fluid retention, swollen eyes and puffiness. Being mindful of the affect these fluctuating hormones will have on the skin is key to helping clients manage the symptoms effectively. “You should be advising the use of vitamin A to normalise and regulate the healthy functioning of the skin cells, as well as hyaluronic acid to hydrate and plump,” TREATMENT ROOM CHECKLIST: adds Tamaris. Advice from celebrity facialist Teresa Tarmey “Peptides will also help to stimulate healthy production of collagen and elastin, and vitamin C will strengthen • Check the temperature capillaries. All treatments should use “For clients suffering with hot flushes, turn off the heated bed, avoid enhanced penetration techniques to wrapping them up too much and be prepared to switch on the aircon.” ensure these active ingredients reach • Have alternative tools ready the deeper layers of the skin.” “If your client’s skin is too sensitised for heat-based treatments then have cold options ready, such as cold compresses, cryoglobes or How does menopause cooling sheet masks.”

affect the skin?

• Offer valuable resources “Include helpful leaflets in the room about organisations that can help

The menopause brings with it many changes, the most common being hot clients adjust to the change, as well as local clinics that specialise in flushes, vaginal dryness, decreased sex HRT or BHRT, should they wish to go down that route.” drive, memory fog and increased fat in the stomach area, to name a few. However, the skin is heavily impacted too, which is why clients need to seek help from a trusted How can it be treated? specialist to keep it calm and happy. The symptoms will also vary according to the client’s “The skin gets drier and more sensitive because of the inherent skin type – for example, dry or prone to breakouts reducing oestrogen levels, and in the first five years of the – so make sure to swot up on their skincare history, as well as menopause, clients lose around 30% of their collagen. > analysing the state of their complexion every time they visit,

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Menopause

110 cooling gel formulas or those formulated with oats to help calm the irritation in treatment. Acne breakouts are also common and “they require ingredients that balance the microbiome and reduce inflammation while promoting the healing process, such as niacinamide,” explains Gardener. “Ingredients that even out skin tone such as hexylresorcinol and vitamin C will also reduce post-breakout marks.” All the experts agree that you should be recommending sulphatefree cleansers packed with antioxidants to help stimulate collagen production and protect against ageing caused by environmental aggressors, as well as steering clear of fragranced products, which can irritate sensitised skin. Jarman explains that clients bone density also starts to change during this time - the underlying facial skeleton skeleton starts to deteriorate and the deep fascia ligaments become lax, “causing sagging of the skin around the jaw area and sunken, hollow eyes.” Jarman advises using HIFU (high intensity focused ultrasound) with radiofrequency to tighten the deeper fascia ligaments.

It’s one of the biggest issues, with skin looking thinner and showing more pronounced lines and wrinkles,” explains Harley Street consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Wedgeworth. This is the time to offer clients more advanced treatments like radiofrequency and microneedling, which are good for skin tightening. Cell renewal also drops during this time and the sebaceous glands slow down the production of oil, leading to dull, rough skin, meaning that even the most robust 3 WAYS TO REDUCE MENOPAUSAL SYMPTOMS: complexions can become more vulnerable to irritation. Therefore, it’s not • Regular exercise – Yoga and tai chi are said to reduce stress levels. uncommon for clients to experience You could partner with a personal trainer to offer a combined treatment sensitivity to products they’ve been using and fitness programme for clients. for years. • Healthy diet – clients should be opting for a diet rich in vegetables, fruits “The skin barrier, which controls skin and healthy fats, while cutting down on caffeine and spicy food, which sensitivity, becomes more fragile during the NHS says can trigger hot flushes. this time, so you need to increase • Self-talk – “Women can feel less worthy during this time so you have to hydration for clients by choosing help build up their confidence,” says Dr Howard Murad, founder of the products that are a little richer,” adds eponymous skincare range. He recommends giving clients daily Wedgeworth. However, avoid poreaffirmations to say to help boost their self-esteem. blocking oils and steer clear of abrasive treatments and deep scrubs because they can break down the skin barrier too.

How can it be treated? Wedgeworth advises salons look into stocking more advanced skincare options such as Emepelle, a serum and moisturiser range designed specifically for menopausal skin, which “uses intelligent technology to try and reverse hormonal changes by restoring an oestrogen-like effect on the skin”, she adds. For clients suffering with relentless hot flushes or sensitive skin conditions such as rosacea, reach for

If your clients are struggling with all aspects of the change then encourage them to book an appointment with their GP to talk about the options available, including hormone replacement therapy (HRT), a synthetic drug that comes in two forms – oestrogen-only and a combination of oestrogen and progestogen; and bioidentical hormone replacement therapy (BHRT), a hormone preparation made from plant sources that are promoted as being similar to human hormones. PB

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Menopause

112

MENOPAUSE MASTERCLASS Important facts and figures therapists need to know about the change

13 million

15 years

the number of UK women currently going through the menopause

the average age that UK women go through the change

how long, on average, menopause symptoms can last

of Brits donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know what premature or early menopause is

*Menopause UK

*NHS

*Nuffield Health Group

*Survey by Health & Aesthetics

60%

1 in 100

30%

28%

200,000

women experience the menopause prematurely, before 40 years of age

drop in collagen during the first five years of the change

of UK spas offer treatments specifically for menopausal clients

the number of UK women on HRT (hormone replacement therapy)

*NHS

*The Effect of Menopause on the Skin and other Connective Tissues Study

*Professional Beauty March 20 Insider Survey

*British Menopause Society

EXTRA RESOURCE Watch our PBTV video with facialist Teresa Tarmey on the dos and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ts of treating menopausal skin in salon, covering the symptoms to look out for and the contraindications to be aware of: professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbtv

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SET YOUR STUDENTS UP FOR CAREER SUCCESS What’s on for colleges on Monday 30th March

Are you bringing a group of students? Email colleges@professionalbeauty.co.uk to register a group

EDUCATION FORUM Discuss with leading employers and specialists how to get students into the industry INSPIRATION & TRAINING Seminars for just £1 per session for lecturers and students DO YOUR STUDENTS HAVE WHAT IT TAKES? Win £1,000 by entering your students into the College Cup EXCLUSIVE LECTURER BENEFITS Free refreshments and drinks reception in the lounges DISCOUNTED COACH HIRE 50% off coach hire, courtesy of

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Hot Topic

115

HOW MUCH

small talk IS TOO MUCH?

Is beauty salon small talk a hinderance to retailing or a necessity to land the sale? Beauty business expert and PB London speaker Liz McKeon weighs in on the issue

mall talk is the cornerstone of any great therapistclient relationship. However, what you must not do is focus too much on gossiping, losing sight of the need to return a profit for the business. I visit salons on a regular basis, announced and sometimes undercover as a secret shopper, and I see this happen all the time – too much gossiping and not enough selling. So, now it is time for your therapy team to strike the right balance. Think about it, what is most clients’ favourite topic of conversation? It’s them, not you. So therapists should stop boring customers with details of their personal life, which are none of the client’s concern, and instead use the time wisely to give professional advice and information about the salon business they’re representing.

Money talks And remember, it is not your therapists’ responsibility to worry about the client’s budget or make an assumption of what money they do or don’t have to spend, as, quite frankly, that is none of their business. Instead, they need to advise and educate customers on the various services available in the salon and what they might need for home use. Without direction, the all-important client cannot make the best choices. If there are any services on your price list that they need, your therapists must tell them. If there are any products on your shelves that they need, they should tell them before they update them on what’s been going on in their private life recently. It is time to watch the small talk and focus on selling. Yet, you can’t have one without the other. Small talk will help therapists to sell but it’s about getting the

balance of professional communication and chit chat right. Your therapists need to listen and focus on the client’s needs, wants and desires first, with the small talk happening in between to create a great overall experience. Good communication should canvass feedback on your current services as well as finding out what might be needed in the future, interspersing this with great beauty advice that is linked to retail sales and repeat bookings for additional services. Explain to your therapy team that their role is varied: they should provide services that clients request; build a client base, fill a column so they become a financial asset within the business, listen for buying signals and close sales; and rebook, upsell and cross-sell services. They need to focus on all of this as well as being a good talker. If your therapists get this right then they become a financial asset to the salon and this becomes a win-win for everyone – your employee runs a highly profitable column; you can meet the running costs of the business comfortably; and the client will be thrilled because they’ve received top advice and a great service. PB

Liz McKeon is a beauty business coach for salons and spas. See her talk – “The fast track to earning more money in your salon” – at Professional Beauty London on the Business Skills programme on Sunday, March 29, at 12pm. Book your ticket at professionalbeauty.co.uk/london professionalbeauty.co.uk

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performance &DISCIPLINARIES No one likes taking disciplinary action against a member of staff, but if you have to do it in your salon, make sure you stay within the law, says NHBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard Written rules and procedures

Dismissing a member of staff

“It’s vital to make sure that your employees know what is expected of them,” says Beaumont-Goddard. “Have clear written rules and procedures in place covering issues such as general conduct, levels of performance and what is acceptable and unacceptable in the workplace. Explain what the consequences may be if employees fall below the expected standards.” NHBF members can download free contracts and employee handbooks that cover this at nhbf.co.uk/ contracts. The contracts specify an initial probationary period of three months which can be extended to six months if necessary.

“Valid reasons for dismissal include being unable or unwilling to do the job to the required standard or being guilty of misconduct. But don’t forget – if your employee is having difficulty due to health issues, you should do everything you can to help and support them so they can do their job,” says BeaumontGoddard. Find out what rights your employees have at nhbf. co.uk/employeerights

Handling problems Tackle tricky employee issues as quickly as possible for the wellbeing of all your staff and your business, advises Beaumont-Goddard. “Have a private conversation with your employee if they are behaving unacceptably, for example, by constantly underperforming, coming in late, or taking frequent sick leave. “Tread carefully, as your employee may have a personal, health or workplace problem that is affecting their performance or behaviour. The law says you must protect your salon employees from stress at work.” Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/stressed-employee.

If things don’t improve You may need to start formal performance management or disciplinary proceedings if the employee doesn’t achieve sufficient improvement, advises Beaumont-Goddard. “However, always take legal advice before doing this. If you don’t follow the correct procedures you could face an employment tribunal,” she adds. NHBF members have access to a free 24-hour helpline at nhbf.co.uk/legal

Summary dismissal This means sacking someone on the spot, usually because of gross misconduct such as theft, fraud, or violent behaviour. “However, you must still be able to show that you acted fairly,” says Beaumont-Goddard. “For example, your first step may be to suspend your employee on full pay while you investigate.” You must take legal advice before dismissing someone.

The NHBF For less than 80p a day, the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) will help you boost your beauty business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. Find out more at nhbf.co.uk Join the NHBF before the end of March 2020 and quote PBM25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Join online at nhbf.co.uk/join Or call us on 01234 831965

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Focus Group

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Stronger

together

Key market challenges and solutions were uncovered at PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY’S recent salon and spa focus groups, including staff retention and how to tackle rising competition

ising business rates, third-party booking platforms and fighting off the competition were among the key challenges discussed at Professional Beauty’s two focus groups for salon owners and spa operators. Held at the Professional Beauty offices in Wimbledon, London, these events gave beauty business owners the chance to discuss the issues affecting their operations, as well as share proven solutions, in a private, informal setting.

What happened at the salon focus group? Increasing business rates, staff retention and coping with “dirty tactics” from competitor salons are the biggest challenges facing beauty salons, according to findings from the salon owner event. The event, which took place on January 28, brought together 12 salon owners to discuss the big issues affecting small businesses’ bottom line. Attendees ranged from senior salon owners who have worked in beauty for more than 25 years, to those whose businesses have only been open for nine months. One of the biggest challenges discussed was how the big brands are treating their key salon accounts. One owner said she spends more than £50,000 a year with a skincare brand but, despite this big investment, doesn’t get access to exclusive offers, feeling like the company isn’t focused on the salon market anymore. With dramatic increases in business rates and the National Living Wage in the past year, many stressed how they have had to work

harder to keep their businesses financially on target, too.

Suggested solutions Some are trying to increase their retail sales, in some cases to as much as 50% of turnover, but admit it’s a tough feat, especially with grey-market sales plaguing the industry. Others are looking to partner with, or employ full-time, an aesthetic nurse or medical practitioner in their salon to offer botox and fillers, as more clients are seeking out these popular procedures. The issue of competition came up too, but in more troubling ways than just a price war. One salon owner said a competitor paid, via Google AdWords, to have their advert appear when clients searched for her business name, while another explained how a salon copied her brand and treatment menu, including everything from the logo to the interior design. Both said they were “raging” at first, but not rising to the bait and staying >

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true to their offering has helped clients see through the games and return to them more loyal than ever. Staff recruitment and retention is a continuing issue, with the recruitment crisis still affecting salons up and down the country. One owner suggested that the solution could lie with the older market, with many mums wanting to return to the working environment but lacking the confidence to do so as so much focus is on hiring millennials and generation Z.

What happened at the spa focus group? Third-party booking platforms and sustainability measures were the hot topics discussed at our spa directors’ focus group, which took place on February 3. Eight owners, who operate different sized spa businesses across the country, came together to discuss the key issues. Attendees reported that, on the whole, business had seen a boost following the recent General Election, with an increased sense of stability improving consumer confidence and encouraging spend. However, similarly to the salon owners focus group, recruitment and staff retention was identified as an ongoing concern. With fewer students coming out of college via the traditional route, many spa directors are now recruiting apprentices. However, they often struggle to place them in colleges, and rely on close personal relationships with local lecturers. Many are also turning to mature applicants looking for a career change and have found these older therapists are typically more reliable and better at building a rapport with clients of a similar age. However, the group unanimously agreed that more needs to be done to inspire the next generation to enter the spa industry.

Suggested solutions To boost staff retention, one spa director said they host an afternoon tea and a certification ceremony to celebrate

therapists’ achievements. Many find that their therapists are less motivated by free products, so instead offer monthly treatments, time off from work or access to the spa facilities at quiet times as incentives. Third-party booking platforms were also on the agenda. In the shift to online bookings, many spa owners want to gain more direct bookings from their clients, as thirdparty websites take a significant percentage and rarely lead to repeat custom. Ideas around how to tackle this problem included introducing a loyalty scheme for customers booking directly, or offering “bounce-back” deals if clients rebook within 24 hours of their last visit. More complex dynamic pricing was also discussed as an alternative way to boost bookings in quiet mid-week periods. With the war on single-use plastic ongoing, sustainability in spas was also a big talking point, with many directors sharing the efforts they have made to become more ecoconscious. One owner has invested in a more sustainable product house, whereas others have made simple swaps such as sourcing biodegradable wet kit bags or asking guests to bring their own flip-flops in an effort to reduce single-use waste. PB

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AWARDS LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE 28 JUNE 2020

Compete and raise your industry profile BOOK YOUR TICKETS Nail Salon of the Year Therapist of the Year Employer of the Year Spa/Salon Team of the Year Spa/Salon Leader of the Year Large Spa of the Year* Boutique Spa of the Year*

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SS20 Nail Trends

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Season NEW

NAILS

CND for Halpern

From negative space nails to throwback manicures, these are the spring/summer 2020 trends and new collections you need to know about

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Julie-Anne Larivière

CND for Halpern

The Gel Bottle for Yuhan Wang

“More and more people are asking for traditional pink and white French manicure in salon again after a period of absence,” says Jenni Draper, session manicurist and creative manager at distributor Louella Belle. However, the trend has taken a playful turn for SS20. Expect to see more double-tipped French manicures in clashing colours, ultra fine ‘micro tips’ and alternating hues on different nails. “There are so many options, but I think we’ll be seeing a lot of those deep smile lines again,” adds Draper. At Yuhan Wang’s SS20 London Fashion Week (LFW) show, The Gel Bottle team presented a twist on the traditional French manicure by scalloping the tips of the nails, while backstage at Halpern, session tech Marian Newman created transparent stiletto nails with a reverse French in emerald and soft pinks. “The bolder clients might opt for the reverse French with foiling instead of polish to add a metallic effect to the look,” says CND education ambassador, Victoria Trafford. “The traditional French Manicure will always be a staple trend, but the reverse French is set to take hold this spring.” Neon tips or macaron pastels are set to be popular, and a neutral or clear base provides the perfect platform for colours to pop – ideal for those looking to experiment with a touch of colour. “The look has grown in popularity over the past few months and is set to be very big,” says Salon System nail artist Julie Anne Larivière. “This year is all about standing out from the crowd and making everything your own.” >

The Gel Bottle for Yuhan Wang

FRENCH REVOLUTION

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CND for Julien Macdonald

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Bluesky for Paula Kno rr

Julie-Anne Larivière

Jessica Nails for Fyodor Golan

Barely there nails are not going anywhere. However, for SS20, they’re now being paired with embellishments or providing a clear canvas for artistic and geometric shapes to pop. “Over the years we have noticed that nude or almost clear nails have become more and more popular, especially on the runways,” says Larivière. While pared-back bases are here to stay, adorning them with maximalist embellishments will be key this season. “We are now adding a bit of a pop to a clear mani,” says Larivière. “Encapsulating sequins, or adding chunky glitters rhinestones and jewels to clear, glossy nails is all the rage for the summer.” At Paula Knorr’s LFW SS20 show, gold foil was encrusted into clear gel polish, whereas other designs saw delicate gemstones atop long clear acrylics. Among the looks at Julien Macdonald, Marian Newman created a glittering wash on the nails, before the tips were embellished with a string of diamantés; while at Fyodor Golan, sheer pink nails were finished with a single pearl accent at the base. Sparkles aside, negative space nails will also be big news for SS20. “Geometric patterns and minimalistic negative space will be a trend you will definitely want to keep an eye out for,” says Larivière. Experiment with abstract, modern art-inspired patterns that expose the bare nail underneath. As the effects can be dialled up or down, the trend is ideal for less adventurous clients who want to try something different or update their regular neutral manicure with an accent nail. >

Bluesky for Paula Knorr

SHEER BRILLIANCE

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CND SS20 Collection

CND for Libertine

Jaz Moger

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WILD THING

Julie-Anne Larivière

Julie-Anne La rivière

CND for The Blonds

CND for Liber tine

Not for the faint-hearted, classic animal prints and exotic motifs are reinvented in electric hues. “Bold patterns are going to be big for spring and we’ll start to see some tropical prints in there too in terms of birds and flowers – these designs will work best with bold colours, giving clients a standout look, hot off the catwalk,” says Samantha Birkett-Leigh, CND education ambassador and session tech. Think your usual leopard print, but reimagined in acidic yellow, or floral motifs on thorn-like extensions, as created by CND for The Blonds New York Fashion Week SS20 show. At Libertine, jungle tigers were contrasted on an electric blue base, and 3D flowers bloomed upwards and outwards from the fingertips. Try experimenting with clashing animal prints on each nail and in different colour ways. “This trend was definitely the biggest one of Summer 2019 and it is still going strong into 2020,” says Larivière. “But once again, we are making it bolder, brighter, funkier.” And as for your more tame clients? “Cow print will also stay on trend for a while alongside the usual leopard and zebra prints,” she says. Florals will also be popular, but this time there’s no middle ground – it’s either going to be full-out floral or barely there, says Trafford. “To create the barely there floral, we’ll see incredibly sheer or clear shades being used for the base, with simple flowers such as white daisies drawn on,” she adds. >

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12/02/2020 11:07

AWARDS THE DIXIE QUEEN YACHT, LONDON 29 MARCH 2020

CELEBRATING GLOBAL EXCELLENCE Book your tickets now at WORLDSPAWELLNESS.COM/AWARDSBOOK

The winners will be announced in a black-tie ceremony on 29 March 2020 at a brand new location, The Dixie Queen Yacht in London.

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15/01/2020 15:07

The Gel Bottle for Charlotte Knowle

The Gel Bottle for Charlotte Knowles

Julie-Anne Larivière

OPI for House of Holland

Jaz Moger

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Jaz Moger

CND for Libertine

Geometric nail art has been gaining popularity year after year, but this summer we are going back in time with it. “People are getting more and more nostalgic about the ’80s and ’90s, especially since the start of the new decade,” says Larivière. “It is all about reliving those decades through nail art.” Fans of funkier patterns will be pleased to hear that retro flashback manicures are set to stay. The trend will be imagined in mix-and-match graphic patterns. “We are talking bold and bright colours with zigzags and shapes,” she says. “From Fresh Prince of Bel Air graffiti to Saved By The Bell geometric patterns – the bolder the better for this throwback trend,” she says. Look to House of Holland, where the LFW SS20 show saw ’90s rave-inspired glitter in abundance on the eyes and reflected in the nails too. Playful pastels were seen at Olivia Rubin, with pick-and-mix neopolitan colours painted on each nail, while at Charlotte Knowles, The Gel Bottle team layered multiple colours and filed them down to create patterns reminiscent of lava lamps. >

The Gel Bottle for Charlotte Knowles

The Gel Bottle for Olivia Rubin

NOSTALGIA NAILS

WHAT’S FALLING OUT OF FASHION? “Nowadays, there aren’t many trends that fall out of fashion as such anymore,” says Larivière. “They evolve rather than disappear altogether, and what was popular last year remains popular but in a different way.”

Marble nails

Tortoise shell

Holographic nails

“Last year, tie-dye marble nails were very trendy, but this year it is softer marble effects rather than the bold neon marble we were seeing,” says Larivière.

“The tortoise shell was great at the time, but it’s been done to death,” says Draper. Instead, turn to organic textures, such as clam shell effects paired with opalescent hues.

“I think we’ll start to see holgraphic nails dropping off,” says Trafford. “Instead, people will be opting for subtler designs that are more delicate and daintier.”

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VISIT US ON STAND M51

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Gelish and Morgan Taylor The Gelish and Morgan Taylor Editor’s Picks Collection features soft pinks and neutrals, available in Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish, Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer, and Gelish Dip Powder. Colours include Barely Buff, a pale pink crème; Call My Blush, a sheer pink; On Cloud Nine, a peachy pink; Going Vogue, an antique rose; It’s Your Mauve, a mauve crème; and I Speak Chic, a taupe crème. Trade: £19.99 per Gelish gel-polish; £4.95 per Morgan Taylor polish 01708 465900 for Gelish (The Georgie Smedley Group) 020 8238 6300 for Morgan Taylor (Louella Belle) nailharmonyuk.co.uk louellabelle.co.uk

Nailit

CND The English Garden collection features soft pastel shades and elegant neutrals, inspired by springtime florals. It’s available in both Vinylux long-wear polish and Shellac gel-polish. Shades include Flowerbed Folly, a modern, dark neutral; Soft Peony, a warm creamy pink; Lady Lilly, a classic, semi-sheer, sugary white; Kiss from a Rose, a rich bubblegum pink; Carnation Bliss, a soft cool-toned pink; and Magical Topiary, a pastel mint green. Trade: CND Shellac £13.95 Vinylux Polish £4.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Recreate the trends with the latest nail collections

Astonishing Nails

Artistic Nail Design The new Beaute’ in Bloom collection is inspired by flowers in bloom. The collection includes Peek-A-Bloom, a light iridescent pearl; Iris You Were Mine, a light purple crème; You Grow Girl!, a deep pink pearl; Hold Me On A Petal-stal, a light purple grey; The Pink In Her Cheeks, a soft pink crème; and Beauty And The Buds, a nude crème. All shades are available in Colour Gloss Soak Off Gel, Colour Revolution Reactive Nail Lacquer and Perfect Dip Powders. Trade: Colour Gloss Soak Off Gel, £16,95, Colour Revolution Reactive Nail Lacquer, £5.95 and Perfect Dip, £12.95 020 8238 6300 (Louella Belle) louellabelle.co.uk

Inspired by the colours of Paris, the pastel shades in La Jolie Paris Gelosophy collection are perfect for updating your clients’ French manicure. The offering includes Fleurir, a soft lilac; Macaron, a muted blue; La Ville De L’Amour, a peachy coral; and Romance, a sparkling copper that is intended to evoke the feeling of the Eiffel Tower at night. Trade: £14.81 each, or £59.24 for the whole collection, including base and top coats. 07792 412 880 (Staffordshire Nail Academy) astonishing-nails.co.uk

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Jessica

Gellux The mix of brights, pastels and neutrals in Gellux’s Flower Power collection tick all the boxes for SS20 trends. Inspired by bohemian florals, colours range from baby pink Daisy Chain, neutral shimmer Oopsie Daisy, beige Hippie Heaven and neutral peach Life’s A Breeze, through to bright red Proper Poppy, coral Best Buds, crimson Bizzie Lizzie and lilac Watch Me Bloom. Trade: £11.95 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com

Summer festivals and flower crowns inspire the free-spirited and bohemian hues in The Indie Fest collection. Colours include a duck egg blue (Headliner), a sunset pink (Centre Stage), a bronze shimmer (Desert Dust), a neutral sand with red glitter (Bestie), a dusky pink crème (Dream Catcher) and a peach pink (Petal Power). Trade: £5.50 per Custom Color; £6.85 per Midi Custom Colour; £17.75 per Geleration gel-polish 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) jessica-nails.co.uk

LCN

NSI

LCN’s Smoothie and Wild Desert collections offer something for every one of your clients. Smoothie features a range of soft hues, from the jade green Frosted Matcha Tea to the creamy Peach Iced Tea. Meanwhile, Wild Desert features natural and vibrant hues such as Sandstorm, a delicate brown, through to Scorpion Sting, a fiery summer red, inspired by Californian summers. All shades are available in Recolution UV-Colour Polish, Nail Polish and Colour Gels. Trade: Nail Polish, £2.85, Colour Gels, £10.20, Recolution UV-Colour Polish, £14.20 01256 840 840 lcnuk.co.uk

The Jazz Collection brings the glitz and glamour of the 1920s to your clients’ fingertips. Shades include Jitterbug, a pastel lilac; Bathtub Gin, a shimmering pearl; Bee’s Knees, a baby pink; Golden Glamour, a golden glitter; Roaring 20s, a glittering cobalt blue; and Speakeasy, a vibrant turquoise. Trade: £15.40 0800 881 8469 nsinails.co.uk

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Launch Analysis

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FULLsteam

ahead

An authentic Russian banya in London is trying to change the UK spa landscape by raising the profile of traditional bathing services, but is it working? Amanda Pauley heads to The Bath House to find out

Russian bath house has opened in the heart of London with one mission – to change Brits’ mindset of what spa is. The Bath House, which opened in Belgravia in December 2019, blends a traditional Russian banya – public steam bath with wood stove – with elements of a contemporary spa to deliver a completely different type of wellness experience to city-goers. As an important part of Eastern Slavic culture, the banya not only brings a sense of heritage and authenticity to The Bath House, but makes it feel accessible to all – in Russia, bathing is a social affair, with an emphasis on experiencing the high heat with loved ones and friends. “Banya is the perfect antidote to intense, hectic and urban lifestyles, offering a social, respectful and immersive cultural experience,” says spa director Robert Procopé. “I have Finnish heritage and lived in Russia in my 20s, so I’ve always loved the banya culture, and I felt there was a real appetite for it in London. In the past 10 years, there’s been a massive influx of Russians emigrating to the city, and for many, this service is a very nostalgic thing. London also has its own rich history of bathing houses, and this is just a new way for Brits to experience the tradition.” The 5,500sq ft spa is situated in a Grade-II listed building which used to be a bank and has two formats – a public area downstairs and a private space upstairs (which can be hired by a group of 10). Both include steam rooms, tipping

buckets, plunge pools, showers and changing rooms. The spa offers ladies and men-only days, as well as mixed sex days, and there’s not an essential oil in sight.

What is a Russian banya? Although The Bath House isn’t the first Russian banya in London, Procopé believes it will stand apart from the others, as well as the city’s more high-profile spas, by delivering “the best and most authentic bathing experience in the area”. He explains: “The steam room is the heart of the business, so not only have we bought authentic Russian stoves and lined the walls with wonderful mosaics depicting artist Zinaida Serebraikova’s famous pictures of ladies bathing, but we’ve sought out the best specialists to deliver parenie, too.” No visit to a Russian banya is complete without the ritual of parenie – an invigorating thermal treatment using fragrant bundles of birch and oak leaves (called a venik) that are soaked in hot water to massage the body, performed by a therapist (known as a banshik) in a hot steam room. The 15-minute ritual captures the steam in the veniks and drives it down into the body, helping to promote weight loss, remove harmful toxins, improve metabolism and rejuvenate the skin.

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“Your banshik is the central figure to the whole clients are now more aware of alternative spa banya experience because they understand how treatments, and some work has already been done to curate the treatment to each person’s physical in London to build awareness around banya, we need and emotional needs,” explains Procopé. But, to take more of an educational approach in our because banya is less understood in the UK, marketing to entice people in,” says Procopé. recruiting specialists proved to be the most “We’ve found that novices really need to be guided difficult part of opening the spa. through the process. For example, many guests don’t “There aren’t many therapists in the UK with the skills realise that they need to acclimatise their body to the needed for banya, so I’ve hired three Russian banshiks heat [a process of entering the sauna for a set time, and I’m getting them to train followed with a cold shower, tipping our other therapists in how to bucket or dip in the plunge pool, deliver parenie,” he says. “In and repeating this routine as much Opened: December 2019 Russia, there are institutes as needed] before having parenie; Size: 5,500sq ft where people learn these or that they need to wear a felt hat Treatment rooms: Seven techniques as well as during the entire experience to help Staff: 15 therapists competitions where people regulate their body temperature.” (including three senior banshiks) battle it out to be named the The team is working on booklets best banshik in the world.” that will explain what to do when Procopé is also bringing visiting to help ease first-time nerves, overseas practitioners to The Bath House as much as as well as encouraging clients to take their time to possible to make sure standards don’t slip, asking linger post-treatment as it should be a social them to conduct masterclasses and special experience. “You don’t just have a treatment and go; treatments such as group parenie. For example, he the banya is about connecting to people, which is why recently had an experienced banshik from Moscow we have food and drink and relaxation areas that you visit for five days to help staff understand how to can use as many times as you like,” he says. deliver an outstanding banya experience. Procopé told me his ultimate goal is for customer

Why are bath houses trending? Despite many Russians coming back to The Bath House regularly since its opening, the focus for the rest of this year will be on getting more novices into the spa and securing their repeat custom. “Although

appetite for banya to increase so much that he could open a second site in the countryside. “Banyas are a very rural experience, using elements of wood, fire and water, so I would love to open one near a river or lake,” he says. “I would also like to enter our banshiks into some global competitions, too.” PB

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JOIN HUNDREDS OF SALONS ACROSS THE UK

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Hot Topic

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TIME TO BAN

smartphones IN SPAS?

Should clients be stopped from using their mobile phones in spas or should we embrace the marketing opportunities they offer? Phil Murphy, director of leisure and spa at Hoar Cross Hall, debates the issue

hile on a recent commute into London I was fully engrossed reading the news on my phone, a ritual I do every morning. It wasn’t until I looked up to scan the train carriage that I realised that 99% of my fellow passengers were transfixed by their phones too. This situation got me thinking about the age-old question of whether smartphones should be allowed in spas. The more traditional view is that it can be distracting for guests, especially those who want a digital detox, while others believe that the technology, used in the right way, can help raise a spa’s profile. I believe that spas need to embrace the smartphone movement, and quickly. Yes, there’s a stigma associated with mobile phone use within spas, and rightly so in some scenarios because you don’t want clients having loud calls in relaxation rooms or distracting others with their screens in sleep rooms. However, this stigma exists because the right etiquette hasn’t been set out and the rule isn’t the same in spas across the UK.

Mixed messages On a recent spa trip I saw an Instagram board in the facility promoting selfies and group shots, but this was located only five yards from another sign prohibiting phone use. It was confusing to say the least and this is why clients don’t know what’s acceptable and what’s not. Most spas are using social media to market their products and facilities and I have yet to come across a business not trying to sell a package or treatment through it. Plus, with more spas using influencers to promote their business, these social media aficionados need to be able to share pictures of their stay on social

media, which will be seen by, potentially, thousands of followers. Spa-goers largely want to share their experience in real time by checking in or creating stories to show off their luxury surroundings. We need to embrace this culture, encouraging clients to take pictures of their visit but making sure that they tag your spa’s handle and use the relevant hashtags you’ve created.

Consistent approach But you also need to educate guests on smartphone usage around your facility, especially in terms of respecting other spa-users, for this to work. Spas need to be creative around their delivery of such rules, and guests’ welcome with reception check-in is pivotal in delivering this. Also, using a pre-arrival call or email outlining usage can work well. If achieved, smart “non-corporate” style signage backs up an already delivered message, but all the aforementioned requires support from regular interaction with clients by spa hosts, as well as carefully monitoring the facilities and relax areas. So, why not ditch the stigma and help guests create Instagramable moments which will help enhance your client’s stay and boost your spa’s reputation? PB

Phil Murphy is director of leisure and spa at Hoar Cross Hall in Staffordshire, which can open 35 treatment rooms on any one day. He looks after a team of 50 therapists.

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Operational Advice

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CAUGHT on

camera

When is it OK to use CCTV to monitor staff? David Wright outlines the advantages, disadvantages and legal requirements

CTV can be an invaluable tool for salon owners. The footage might capture incidents involving clients and staff. It could help resolve complaints, identify thefts, enhance security or prevent incidents occurring. The situation becomes much more complicated, however, if the employer wishes to secretly monitor employees on CCTV. It is normally a legal requirement for the employee to know they are being monitored in advance and the reason for it. Other than CCTV, monitoring can include bag searches and checking emails or internet activity. To begin with, you should have a clause in your contracts allowing such monitoring and a right to search employees.

Is there a thief at work? Sadly, thefts can occur in any business; it is disturbing when the culprit is an employee. When thefts occur, the employer has a number of options.

Sometimes just an announcement to staff that products, money or something else has gone missing is sufficient for the thefts to stop. The employer might give the message that if there is another theft then the police will be called. Another route is to interview all the staff to determine what, if anything, they know or suspect. This can be very informative, although it may not enable the employer to find out who the thief was. In some circumstances, the salon owner might decide that products or notes be marked and that a bag search will be conducted as soon as something goes missing. If this works, and the thief is identified, then you follow your disciplinary procedure to suspend and dismiss the employee. But what if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find the culprit and the thefts continue? In exceptional circumstances, the employer might decide secret monitoring is the only option. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clearly a tough decision for the salon

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owner. If they tell staff they have discovered thefts and cameras are being installed then their cover is blown. If they don’t tell the staff, they may uncover the thefts but then be challenged about the secret monitoring. There isn’t a right answer and there are many factors to consider. It often depends on the owner’s personal viewpoint. How much do they want to catch and dismiss the thief? A recent case suggested that secret monitoring might be acceptable if: • the employer had a reasonable suspicion that staff were stealing • the monitoring only lasted until the thief was caught • the footage was viewed only to catch the thief and only by one or two senior individuals.

staff? A guideline would be not to say anything you wouldn’t be happy to have repeated. What if an employee makes a secret recording and uses it against the employer at a later stage? You can imagine where there is a difference of opinion how embarrassing it could be. Let’s look at an actual case: during her unfair dismissal hearing, an employee disclosed that she had made a secret recording when talking to a manager. The employee won her claim but the employer appealed and argued that her pay out should have been reduced to reflect her conduct (the secret recording) before she was dismissed. In this case, the tribunal had found that the employee had not recorded the meeting to

Operational Advice

137

How many employees caught on camera stealing would then make a claim against the employer for secretly monitoring them? You might imagine not many, but it only takes one to cause the employer potential serious embarrassment and a lot of work, so awareness of the risks is important. In simple terms, an employee could claim: • a breach of data protection • a breach of human rights • undermining an employee’s trust and confidence in their employer.

A checklist for employers using CCTV Every case may differ but the following are basic principles for consideration: • Ensure the CCTV is targeted at areas of particular risk and confined to areas where expectations of privacy are low. It’s hard to think of a circumstance where CCTV would be appropriate in a salon treatment room • Consult with employees prior to the introduction of the CCTV • Inform them of the extent and nature of the CCTV and the reason for it • Consider drafting data protection policies relating to the use of CCTV cameras • Consider putting prominent signage in areas where CCTV cameras are installed • Don’t forget GDPR. Any personal data collected must be used and kept only to fulfil its original purpose, and a GDPR-compliant notice must be prominently displayed.

Can employees make recordings? This issue is often ignored by salon owners but is just as common. It’s always a good idea to have a third party taking notes at a disciplinary hearing. Many employers agree to record the hearing and have the tape typed up to avoid potential conflict. This takes away any need for the employee to secretly record on their phone. But what about general discussions with

entrap her employer, there was no confidential information involved and other people were not discussed. There had been no breach of the implied term of trust and confidence between employer and employee. The appeal wasn’t successful; however, the tribunal recognised that it is good practice for an employee or employer to say if there is any intention to record a meeting, and it is generally misconduct not to do so, except in the most pressing of circumstances. PB

David Wright is a consultant in all aspects of employment practice and law. He is the main employment law consultant for Habia and provides a personalised support service for UK salons. 01302 355372 davidwrightpersonnel.co.uk

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Nail Notes

139

Boost YOUR engagement

If you’re not looking at engagement rates to measure success, you’re doing Instagram wrong, says Naf! Salon owner Tammy Koslowski

ngagement is the key metric to measure if you want to learn how successful your nail business profile is on Instagram. It shows how frequently your following is interacting with your content – grid posts, stories and IGTV – making it more valuable than follower count or likes. “Nowadays, people focus too much on how many followers they have or how many likes a grid post got, but the only way to achieve high numbers across the board is through engagement,” says Tammy Koslowski, nail tech and owner of Naf! Salon in Glasgow. She shares her top tips for getting a good engagement rate on Instagram:

1. Use Instagram Stories “I always set my nail techs a challenge of posting five Instagram stories a day, as people tapping and/or swiping on these creates engagement for your profile,” explains Koslowski. “If you’re providing a service like nails, hair or beauty then you always have fresh content in front of you because you’re essentially creating something new every hour. Plus, the great thing about stories is that you don’t have to spend time making the content look polished either as it is meant to have a behind-the-scenes feel to it. People tapping through stories creates engagement, but adding sliders, polls or question boxes increases that even more because they’re interacting with you.”

2. Invest in Instagram Lives “Lives are a great way to get people joining in with your channel and communicating by tuning in and asking questions. This is so important for engagement rates

– and for when you’re trying to express who you are to followers,” says Koslowski. “Doing tutorials, a tour of your salon or even chatting through your products – why you love and use them – is so invaluable. If you save them to your stories at the end, these videos stick around and you can use them for 24 hours. You can also download them to use later if you want to.”

3. Don’t forget about IGTV “My biggest advice is to always put your IGTV videos on your Instagram feed because they get so much more engagement on there. If you’re short on time, you could collate all your finished nail look photos from the past month and put them on IGTV as a collage video – that’s great content,” advises Koslowski. “Maybe use all the photos you’ve taken that haven’t made it on to your grid. Or, you could go into your archive and find all the live videos you’ve taken in the past month and collate them together as a behind-the-scenes video of what’s been going on in the salon lately. You don’t need to create a whole production; it’s about taking the time to collate your work together into a video that people will engage with.” PB

Tammy Koslowski is owner of Naf! Salon in Glasgow, which has 119,000 Instagram followers. She also runs training school Naf! School. For more social media advice, check out the Digital Skills programme at Professional Beauty London professionalbeauty.co.uk/education professionalbeauty.co.uk

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141

Part of the Aleksandrowicz System, Beata Aleksandrowicz’s latest offering is a course of treatment sessions to help clients reconnect with their own face, leaving them rejuvenated and restored. Each treatment begins with Himalayan singing bowls to release muscle tension and balance the energy centres in the body. The facial combines emotional awareness and self-appreciation through coaching, facial massage with Eastern and Western techniques, and mindfulness, breath and bodywork. During a recommended course of six treatments, clients will address physical, emotional and spiritual aspects of how their face appears, down to what they eat, what they feel and how developing a good relationship with their face can positively impact their appearance. Aleksandrowicz will be offering this new therapy as part of her exclusive series of visiting practitioner

Treatment News

Aleksandrowicz System Face Cure

engagements at spas around the world. This new facial technique can be included in spa training as part of the Aleksandrowicz System. Beata Aleksandrowicz recommends charging £185 for 60 minutes, or £260 for 90 minutes. Contact the brand via beata.website

SPRING update

From sustainable waxing to the latest lash offering, keep these treatments on your radar this month

This month we tried… Aqua Natural Strip Sugaring The lowdown: Aqua Natural’s sugaring wax is made of just sugar and water, making it 100% natural, vegan certified and cruelty-free. It can be used on both the face and body and, thanks to its composition, it’s a sustainable and biodegradable waxing alternative that is fully water-soluble. The experience: Aqua Natural co-founder Rosie Khandwala began the treatment by applying Aqua Natural Pure Fine Talc to both of my lower legs. The skin should be free from any moisturisers, and this crucial step absorbs any moisture that can prevent the sugar solution from sticking to hairs. Once the wax was heated, a thin layer was applied with a wooden waxing stick before a strip was applied on top, smoothed down and quickly pulled back. The process was akin to other waxes and caught the majority of the hairs on each strip. I had both of my lower legs waxed and the entire process took 30 minutes. The treatment was finished with Soothing Mist to help calm any redness.

The verdict: Even after years of shaving and having sensitive skin, I experienced very minimal pain during the treatment and the sugar solution was effective at removing stubborn hairs. My hair has since grown back much finer and I liked that any residue wax on the skin could easily be washed away with warm water. Business benefits: Thanks to the water-soluble formula, any spillages are easily cleaned away from clothing, equipment or surfaces. The technique is the same as traditional waxing, so no training or new equipment is needed. Strips of fabric may also be used with the sugar as a sustainable alternative, as they can be washed afterwards. Additionally, with Aqua Natural’s new “Refill, Reduce, Reuse” rewards scheme, if you send six empty tubs back, you will receive a 15% discount on your next order as a sustainability incentive. Tried by Eleanor Vousden Aqua Natural recommends charging the same as your standard wax offering. Call the brand on 01933 441818 professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Treatment News

142 AestheticsSource Peel2Glow Adding to its portfolio of peel treatments, AestheticsSource has launched two new 10-minute peels, each with a two-step system. New Beauty & Boost Peel2Glow uses lactic acid combined with an antioxidant complex

to gently exfoliate the skin and treat signs of photoageing. This enhances the permeability of step two, which offers four anti-ageing peptides to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Similarly, New Sleep & Repair Peel2Glow begins with the same first step to prepare the skin, before an ampoule of hyaluronic acid, probiotics and antioxidant enzymes is applied to the skin to help aid repair overnight from UV and pollution. Designed for use in clinic and at home, the ingredients are housed in two 1.5ml ampoules and have a specially designed nozzle for application. AestheticsSource recommends charging £15–20 per treatment. The product can also be retailed for a RRP of £10 (trade price £4.79). Call the brand on 01234 313130

This month we tried… Lash Perfect British The lowdown: Lash Perfect introduced its latest lash look in September last year, developed to meet demand for more natural, elegant and everyday extensions. Compared to the brand’s Classic and Russian extension styles, which offer varying degrees of fuller, more voluminous looks, British introduces brown-toned lashes and mixes, softer, shorter styles to complement fairer skin tones and provide a more delicate look. The experience: I’ve tried Lash Perfect’s Russian Varia lashes before, and while they looked amazing and the look was expertly tailored for me, I prefer a more low-key, softer look for everyday. British sounded perfect for me, and senior international trainer Emma Apps made sure the finished looked would be exactly what I wanted. During consultation, she explained that there isn’t one set finished look for British – the treatment uses a mix of shorter lengths applied in a way to give less of a thick look, and can blend techniques and use lighter coloured lashes if needs be. We decided to blend British, Russian and Classic lashes in C curl 0.7 and 15, in 8, 9, 10 and 11mm. The British lashes are flat and have a split tip for a feathered look, while Classics are straight and Russians are ultra-fine and designed to be used in a multi-lash technique. Apps gently cleansed my lashes and applied the Soothing Gentle Under Eye Gel Patches to protect my lower lashes and skin. The process took about an hour and a half and was completely comfortable throughout thanks to Apps’s delicate touch. I usually have some slight stinging from the adhesive or under-eye pads used during lash extension treatments, but I didn’t experience any irritation at all this time. The verdict: This was the first time I’ve continued to pay for infills after a lash treatment. The British look is ideal for someone like me who doesn’t wear much make-up and is fairly low maintenance with their appearance.

It was five weeks before I went back to the Lash Bar for infills and my lashes were still looking great with no glaringly-obvious gaps despite the expected fall out. Business benefits: Offering the British look will allow lash techs to offer something to clients who wouldn’t normally opt for extensions for fear of the result being too dramatic. The dark brown lashes make the treatment accessible to those with fairer skin and/or red hair, and being able to mix techniques and styles to create a bespoke, natural look gives techs the chance to show off their expertise. Tried by Georgia Seago Lash Perfect recommends charging from £50 for British lashes, depending on the type of set. A typical treatment takes approximately 75 minutes. Call the brand on 020 8500 9028

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Germaine de Capuccini The new range from Germaine de Capuccini, Timexpert Rides, works to eliminate both dynamic wrinkles caused by muscle contractions and static wrinkles caused by the ageing process, over 30 days. The products contain the brand’s BTX-Tripeptine Complex to reduce the effect of facial dermocontractions, and tissulage technology to regenerate the extracellular matrix by replacing damaged tissue with rebuilt tissue. The range includes three creams in different textures, plus a 30-day programme of three serums. Trade: £36.50– £37.50 for the creams; £67.50 for the serum programme 0845 600 0203 germaine-de-capuccini.co.uk

New Products

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Skin

SMART

From repairing damaged tissue to looking after the environment, this month’s launches include some hard-working skincare formulas

Medik8

Inika Make-up brand Inika is launching a skincare range, which is made entirely from natural ingredients and is vegan, cruelty-free and organic. Key ingredients include rose of Jericho, maca root, grape juice extract and caviar lime extract. The range includes cleansers and oils like Botanical Face Oil and Camellia Oil Cleanser, as well as moisturisers and treatment products, such as the Maca Root Rich Day Cream, Resveratrol Eye Cream and Resveratrol Serum, with all products housed in sustainable packaging. Trade: from £14.50 07795 171783 inikaorganic.com

Timed for Mother’s Day, cosmeceutical brand Medik8 has created a gift set that comprises three of its bestsellers alongside an exclusive gemstone roller. Included in the Luxe Collection set are retinol-based products r-Retinoate Day & Night; r-Retinoate Day & Night Eye Serum; r-Retinoate Intense. RRP: £390 03330 142434 (Skinbrands) skinbrands.co.uk

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New Products

146 The Eyelash Emporium Feature Length Nourishing Mascara, specifically formulated for use with classic eyelash extensions, is one of two new products from The Eyelash Emporium. Created with a pointed tip, the mascara is designed to thicken and fill lashes without damaging the adhesive bond. Meanwhile, stunt Double Lash Growth Serum uses lashboosting peptides to enhance lash density by up to 79%, designed for use with or without extensions in. Trade: £10 for the mascara; £10.99 for the serum 01753 650656 eyelashemporium.com

BC Softwear With a clear focus on reducing environmental impact, whether that’s using solar-powered factories, reducing natural gas consumption or implementing better waste management, BC Softwear has launched its SmartSoft Collection. The SupremeSoft bathrobes and spa linen use 45% cotton and 55% polyester and have a 40-50% faster drying time than traditional towels. Meanwhile, the SmartKnit knitted towels only require 8.5% of the drying energy required by traditional towels. Trade: from £2.15 for hand towels; from £11.20 for bath sheets 0845 210 4000 bcsoftwear.co.uk

CND Vinylux 2in1 is a new double-ended nail polish pen from CND for on-the-go nails. Included in the twostep system is a resilient colour coat on one end and a fast-drying Long Wear Topcoat on the other. Ingredients include jojoba oil, keratin and vitamin E. It’s available in baby pink Negligee; greige Field Fox; bright Hot Pop Pink; red orange Lobster Roll; and pillar box red Wildfire. Trade: £8.45 each 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Outback Organics Outback Organics is launching two new strip waxes, both of which are gel formulated to ensure a thin application and avoid sticky residue on the skin once removed. The first is Amethyst, a shimmery purple that smells of bubble-gum and plum. The second is Amber, which is a molten lava orange colour fragranced with sweet citrus. Trade: from £10 for 800g tin; from £2 for roller tin 01823 663322 outbackorganics.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

148 RefectoCil RefectoCil’s new Browista Palette features two sections for eyelash and eyebrow tint that can be mixed simultaneously and is suitable for both right and lefthanded therapists. The integrated marking on the palette is said to help when judging mixing ratio and the palette is designed to be easy to clean and chemically resistant. Also available is the Browista Toolkit, a four-in-one expert kit that includes two application dishes, a spoolie and two sizes of brush for either precise or wide application. Trade: £9.95 for Browista Palette; £15 for Browista Toolkit 020 8573 9907 salonsystem.com

Buttercups Uniforms Buttercups Uniforms has released a new colourway for its popular B320 V Neck Beauty & Spa Tunic. Now available in black bi-stretch material, it is suitable for a range of figures, with a cross-over style and empire-line waist. The material is said to move with the body to ensure comfort while working in high-pressure environments. Also new is the purple-shaded B620 Waist-Detail Tunic with Pockets, which has dart detailing on the waists and pockets. Trade: £35.99 each 0844 910 0865 buttercupsuniforms.com

Repêchage Repêchage is set to launch a wide range of products this month, including Hydra Refine Astringent Pads for Normal to Oily Skin, the lightweight and handheld Ionto Massager, Perfect Skin Natural Finish Pressed Powder, which is available in six different shades; and the Vita Cura Gold Collection, which includes a B3 Serum Complex, B3 Elixir Complex and B3 Lifting Mask. Trade: £948 for Vita Cura Gold Collection; £18 for Ionto Massager; £12 for Hydra Refine Astringent Pads; £20.25 for Perfect Skin Natural Finish Pressed Powder 0800 731 7546 beautyfromthesea.co.uk

Premier Software Following its relaunch 12 months ago, Premier Software’s cloud-based software for the beauty and hair industry Salonlite has undergone a redesign with new features. Users will now be able to record patch test results against a client, book overlapping appointments, and drag and drop any bookings. The refreshed colour scheme makes it clear when clients are due to arrive and once they have departed. Trade: £10 per month; free trial for 60 days 01543 466580 salonlite.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

150 ZO Skin Health

Endor Technologies Elenzia’s Endor Technologies has launched Firming and Body Shaping Cream, designed to promote the development of muscle and lower the expression of the genes involved in fat accumulation, as well smoothing, firming and moisturising skin. The product uses Endor’s Nano Gold Technology in combination with a biotechnological active found in sea sponges from Bermuda, and is said to decrease the size of the arms, thighs and abdomen when used twice a day regularly. RRP: £85 07948 351875 elenzia.com

The latest anti-ageing launch from Dr Zein Obagi’s skincare line ZO Skin Health is Firming Serum, designed to combat sagging and improve skin laxity for a more defined facial contour. Enriched with plant extracts, the serum supports the natural skin renewal process, fibroblast activity and defends the skin against free radical damage. Included in the formula is sodium DNA and ZCore, which consists of bio-mimetic tetrapeptide and sweet yellow clover, supporting the anchoring fibrils for dermalepidermal junction integrity. Trade: £79.32 020 7491 0150 (Wigmore Medical) zo-skinhealth.co.uk

Dr Renaud

SkinCeuticals Glycolic Renewal Cleanser, the latest launch from SkinCeuticals, is a soft foaming gel that gently exfoliates skin and removes oil, dirt, debris and make-up to brighten the complexion. The formula includes 11.75% glycolic acid at a pH of 3.5 (delivering a free acid value of 8%), 1% phytic acid, aloe barbadensis leaf extract and glycerine, and is formulated to enhance clarity and brightness, leaving skin looking smooth and feeling refreshed. RRP: £17.50 0800 028 2331 skinceuticals.co.uk

Dr Renaud has reinvigorated its anti-ageing formula and launched a new retail line, using organic iris extract, hyaluronic acid and tamarind extract to improve and preserve the skin as it ages. Also contained is a neurophyto-oxygenating complex, designed by Dr Renaud to stimulate the synthesis of dopamine and boost cellular oxygenation. New retail products include Iris Lift & Radiance Serum, Iris Firming & Radiance Cream, Iris Lift Eye Contour Cream and Lift & Radiance Mask. Trade: From £16.20 to £23.80 +33 (0) 296 165945 dr-renaud.com

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Career Path

152

How to make it as a...

cancer-trained

THERAPIST

Sharleen Lind, a Made For Life Organics Cancer Touch Therapy-qualified therapist, explains the physical and emotional impacts of treating clients with cancer

1. Be passionate about helping “When I worked as a personal trainer on a cruise ship, I came into contact with lots of people with different conditions. I became inspired and asked where I could learn to help those struggling, which led me to The Granary Spa, a holistic retreat in Ashford, Kent, where I’m now spa manager. “To train in cancer therapies, you’ve got to have a lot of empathy in your character and a passion for caring for people, but I also think that anyone who goes through the training will leave thinking, ‘It feels really great to help people’. Everyone knows someone who has been through cancer, so you just have to think about how you would want them to be treated.”

2. Study up on the specifics “Before I did my training with Made For Life Organics, I felt quite nervous because I didn’t want to hurt anyone, but I became a lot more confident having gone through training, and with practice. “We were taught by a paramedic, who made sure we knew everything about the operations the patients went through and the physiological and mental strain that this would have. You have to be aware of the type and severity of the cancer, as well as where it is in the body, and just understand the client’s journey through the illness from start to finish.”

3. Be adaptable “Everyone’s different, so we have a specific consultation form that lets us know how the client is doing on that day. Some will want to talk about what they’re going through, so you just listen. I like speaking to them and knowing how they are, but you shouldn’t ask too many questions if not prompted to because they get enough of that when going through treatment.

“Sometimes, they may be tearful, and your goal becomes helping them with the negative voices in their head. All you want to do is give them a hug, but you have to take over and say, ‘Let’s get you on the bed and make you feel a bit better’. It can be challenging mentally but it’s become second nature now.”

4. Develop a gentle touch “The treatments themselves aren’t all that different, but they’re often far gentler and you may not spend as much time working on a certain area. Indian head massages, foot massages and hand massages are all the same movements, just lighter. “People usually just want to be treated normally, so we make sure we don’t say anything differently; we simply go though the consultation, ask them if there are any areas they want us to avoid, and then do the treatment. Through this practice, you really learn how to listen and understand their individual needs.”

5. Understand your impact “Our aim is to make people feel included, and to spoil them, because they don’t often feel very special with all they’re going through. It’s so worthwhile seeing how relaxed they are, getting off the bed with a big smile. “We’ve had clients who have had treatments then sadly passed away but their partners have continued to come to us through their journey of loss because they know their partner had been here and how good they felt. It’s so special. “I would encourage all therapists to do cancer touch training, because it can make such a positive difference. The body’s the most amazing machine and if you can help to heal it just with your touch, then that’s just incredible.” PB

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