AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS
BRITISH BRANDS • LASER AND IPL • COMMUNITY INITIATIVES • THE HARROGATE SPA
GROUP EFFORT COMMUNITY INITIATIVES IN UK SALONS
SHED SOME LIGHT EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT LASERS January 2020
January 2020 | professionalbeauty.co.uk
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THE BRIT LIST
PROFILING SUCCESSFUL BRITISH BRANDS IN BEAUTY
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Est. 1963
Proudly British for over 50 years High quality essential oil skin, body and wellbeing products researched, developed and manufactured in the UK.
Professional only brand | Accessible start-up packages Affordable products for retail | Comprehensive education & training Find out why so many therapists are choosing us as the natural choice for their business. Call us today on 01733 260161 (UK) or 053 914 3032 (ROI) to find out more.
eve-taylor.com
Regulars 11 News 2020’s biggest wellness trends; spotlight on bullying in the beauty industry
Contents
Jan
Contents
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25 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 26 Social surgery Why is Twitter purging millions of accounts? 29 Out & about Behind the scenes at the biggest parties 33 Insider Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 39 Ward’s world Hellen Ward on managing different age groups 41 Ask the experts Tanning clients with eczema and working with influencers 87 Nail notes Responding to clients’ confrontational messages on social media 89 Treatment news Inside Medik8’s 2020 treatment programme 90 New products Elemis expands its Superfood range; Dermalogica creates a vitamin-C eye cream 96 Career Path Jessica Crane on how to start a salon consultancy business
Features
On the cover
23 The final countdown Last chance to enter the PB Awards 2020
51 Great British beauty In the midst of Brexit uncertainty, some salons and spas are feeling dubious about taking on an additional product house. However, with many suppliers having strong roots in the UK, could now be the time to invest in the best of British?
47 Talking to… Steph Stevenson How the entrepreneur is taking the “fast beauty” concept to new levels with her ambitious plans to roll out express salon concept Marie Claire Jet Style in UK train stations and airports 66 Watch out for “well-washing” Valerie Delforge on the misuse of the word wellness 74 Recipe for success How The Harrogate Spa has created an authentic wellness experience in the historic town 83 Hot topic Should clients be ditching their mosituriser? Two leading facialists give opposing views
69 Finger on the pulse With so many different types of laser on the market, we cut through the jargon to give you a guide to which are right for your business 77 All together now Three beauty business owners reveal how they are giving back to their local communities Cover image: Laura Ashley
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Editor’s Comment
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Creating a sense of community is a core goal for most salons and spas. Traditionally, this means nurturing therapist-client relationships and hosting the odd charity event but, increasingly, UK beauty businesses are going one step further, giving back to the clients who support them, with a range of initiatives aimed at bringing people together, boosting mental wellbeing, caring for the elderly and much more. We explore just a few of these innovative schemes in our feature on page 77, looking at three businesses that have maximised their position at the heart of the local community to bring people closer. Supporting local businesses is also key for many salons and spas, particularly with growing pressure to cut our environmental impact by sourcing from local suppliers. Add to that the as yet unclear impact of Brexit on the supply chain and it’s obvious why some businesses are beginning to look closer to home when seeking out new brands. Our focus this month on British brands takes an in-depth look at some of the companies flying the flag for UK manufacturing, alongside others that outsource production internationally but have their heritage and head office here, allowing them to supply direct. While no one would advise an insular approach that cuts us off from the diversity and specialisms that international brands bring to the UK beauty scene, there are undoubtedly benefits to adding at least one local brand to your mix this year. We profile 45 of the biggest in our special feature on page 51, from tried-and-tested spa favourites to the new kids on the block that have their sights set on shaking up the professional market in 2020.
Editor
@Pro_Beauty01
@Pro_Beauty
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LUMINA®
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11 News
News Plant-based eating among top five 2020 wellness trends Holistic training, boutique fitness in rural areas and plant-based eating are among the five wellness trends set to take 2020 by storm, according to fitness and wellbeing booking app MindBody’s research. 1. Plant-based eating Following the popularity of Netflix’s film The Game Changers, which is about plant-based eating, UK search interest for plant-based diets increased 465% between September and November 2019, according to Google’s search data. As a result, plant-based eating is expected to be big this year. 2. Boutique fitness Boutique studios that specialise in a particular type of fitness, such as yoga, functional training or highintensity interval, will grow in popularity outside of London. 119,567 bookings were made at these “intimate” spaces outside of the big city every month during the period July 2018 to June 2019, found MindBody’s data usage, with
Manchester having the highest number of classes at 10,700. This was followed by Birmingham (8,706), Glasgow (5,900), Bristol (4,616) and Reading (3,987). 3. Recovery Clients now want to maximise their recovery days after tough fitness sessions, turning to unconventional beauty treatments to achieve it – cryotherapy bookings saw an 162% increase in 2019, while water therapy had an 107% boost, reported MindBody. 4. Holistic training A holistic approach to fitness training, which takes into account your physical, mental and emotional health, is also predicted to take centre stage, with more facilities launching that are dedicated to transform overall wellbeing.
5. On-demand fitness Home-based workouts will soar, claims the report, with the likes of fitness providers Peloton, BoxVR and Flit now allowing people to live stream workouts from the comfort of their home. MindBody also believes that gyms and studios will embrace technology this year to increase their fitness footprint beyond the physical environment.
Men’s skincare products market now valued at $10 billion The men’s skincare products market was predicted to hit $10 billion (£7.6bn) by the end of 2019 and is forecasted to achieve double-digit growth through to 2029, according to research by analyst Future Market Insights. Shaving creams, moisturisers, sunscreens, cleansers and face washes generated the most sales, the report found, with the surge attributed to demand by customers for more diverse ranges as well as the rise of indie brands. When it comes to the sector’s future growth, the analyst believes there will be high demand for
organic products and those that target oily complexions, while items developed specifically for sensitive skin is also tipped to be a rapidly emerging category to invest in. “The clean beauty movement and microbiome skincare have gained
momentum in Europe, owing to high product awareness among consumers,” the report said. “These are observed as the latest trends in the skincare industry, which propel the European beauty and personal care market growth. These trends result in the region accounting for the highest revenue share in the market.” In 2018, 37% of the world’s skincare products were launched in the UK, and Europe holds significant shares in the men’s skincare products market thanks to a high concentration of beauty manufacturers in the region. professionalbeauty.co.uk
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News
14
inbrief
// The final part of CND’s 40th anniversary celebrations saw the brand launch an exhibition in California celebrating nail pros. The Tiny Canvases: The Art of Nails at the Oceanside Museum of Art took visitors on a journey though the brand’s history with more than 20,000 mini images of CND artists’ work. // Beauty therapist Sarah Dullea, who has spina bifida, has fulfilled her dream of opening her own salon in Cork, Ireland. Sarah’s Art of Beauty is situated on the grounds of charitable organisation Crann Centre in Ovens, which provides services to young people living with spina bifida and hydrocephalus. // Skincare brand Elemis had record-breaking sales of its Special Value Collection on QVC in November 2019. The seven-piece Gift of Gorgeous Skin set had the most units ever sold for a Special Value Set in QVC UK history, with 150,000 collections bought in under a week. // Irish seaweed brand Voya has renewed its partnership with Emirates Airlines for another three years. The brand will continue to supply amenity products for the first class cabins on the airline’s A380 planes as well as in the Lounge Shower Spas. // Bolton College’s Callum Stamp was named Best Young Commercial Make-up Artist at the National Finals of WorldSkills UK, which took place at the NEC Birmingham in late November. The 17-year-old MUA was praised for his interpretation of the theme Going Viral (pictured right) as well as his application technique.
BBC Two show looks at bullying in the beauty industry A BBC Two programme has shone a spotlight on bullying in the British beauty industry. The Victoria Derbyshire programme spoke to an array of people, from company directors to department store make-up artists, who have made accusations of abuse, blackmail or psychological bullying. One claimed that while working as an executive for a major beauty brand she was “pushed out” after telling bosses she was pregnant, while a make-up artist said his friend was told not to work the front desk at a boutique store because “they thought she was too ugly and too fat”.
Many told the BBC they have suffered from anxiety, depression and even suicidal thoughts as a result. The British Beauty Council is now calling for an independent body to investigate the claims made in the BBC’s “Bullying ‘rife’ in the beauty industry” programme.
Quarter of Brits using out-of-date beauty products Almost a quarter of Brits (23%) are using beauty cosmetics that have expired, with a further 17% stating they won’t stop applying them until the product appears “off”, discovered a survey by contract packing company We-Pack. Just under a fifth of Brits ignore or simply don’t check the shelf-life dates and one in six admitted they weren’t
aware that cosmetics have expiry dates, the report found. However, old products can lose their smell, texture and colour over time, and can cause breakouts and bacterial infections on the skin when out of date. Cosmetic companies are obliged to include lifespan dates on products under the EU Cosmetic Regulation.
Superbugs E.coli and fungi found in most make-up bags Harmful superbugs E.coli, staphylococcus and fungi have been found lurking in women’s make-up bags, with nine in 10 products – including mascaras, lip glosses and beauty blenders – found to be affected, discovered scientists from Aston University’s School of Life and Health Sciences. More than half of lipsticks (56%) and lip glosses (55%) were found to be carrying staphylococcus bacteria, which can cause infections on the skin; while one in 10 lipsticks and lip glosses were harbouring
E.coli, which can cause gastrointestinal infections. Beauty blenders (57%), lipsticks (37%) and eyeliners (28%) were also found to be carrying fungi.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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ER POW 3 OF
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News
18
inbrief
// Make-up brand Mii, created by Gerrard International, is now available in Mauritius via international distributor Mauvilac Cosmetics. The distributor’s executive director Alicia Maurel held a launch event for MUAs, journalists and others at Sunset Café at the Caudan Waterfront, where guests were given Mii makeovers and a goody bag. // Spa and wellness design company Raison d’Etre has launched a sustainability initiative that promises to integrate a green strategy into all projects starting in 2020. The guidelines will ensure that every project supports sustainability in the materials used in construction, as well as the quality of air, water and light in the region it’s being built in. // Professional hair and beauty supplier Sally Salon Services opened its first Birmingham store in December 2019. The store, located on Coventry Road in Sheldon, was opened by barbering expert and Wahl Artistic Team Member Michael Domiano. // Sweet Squared held a series of events in Dublin, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Leeds for the launch of Lashus Extensions Wow. Educators Dawn Grant, Jacki Clarke, Kirsti Turrell and Jasmyn McCarthy talked attendees through the new extensions range, and a play station was set up so customers could see and feel the Lashus products. // Sammy Gharieni will receive the A life of Beauty Award at trade show Beauty Düsseldorf on March 6. The chief executive of The Gharieni Group, which manufactures high-quality treatment beds, is being recognised as a “driving force in the industry.”
Harley Street Skin Clinic launches franchise model Harley Street Skin Clinic has announced plans to branch out beyond London by launching a franchise business. The clinic will offer franchisees access to the business’s referral process around the country, as well as the opportunity to train in certain advanced treatments that were only available in London prior to the announcement. The flagship clinic’s core team will monitor, train and support sister clinics, providing guidance in site selection, tailored training plans, financial viability checks, business planning advice, and management and operational software programmes. Franchisees will also receive support from the Harley Street Skin website and social media sites. Harley Street Skin Clinic was cofounded in 2006 by cosmetic doctor
Aamer Khan and skincare expert Lesley Reynolds, offering a range of surgical and minimally invasive treatments. The announcement follows a recent rise in popularity for aesthetic treatments, attributed in part to a greater interest from the male population and an increased take-up from older demographics.
Classic Blue named Pantone’s Colour of the Year 2020 Global colour company Pantone has named 19-4052 Classic Blue its Colour of the Year 2020, chosen for its ability to “instil calm, confidence and connection” as the decade comes to an end. Classic Blue is expected to make a big impact in the make-up
and nails sectors next year. The rich navy is “a timeless and enduring hue elegant in its simplicity,” said the colour provider. The colour is associated with communication, introspection and clarity, which is particularly important in today’s fast-paced world.
Celebrity influencers have less sway with UK beauty buyers UK audiences are more likely to be persuaded into buying beauty products by non-celebrity influencers, according to State of the Influence, a new report from social influencer marketing platform Traackr. Traackr analysed 122 make-up, skincare and hair brands, and their influencers within the UK, US and France, and gave them a Brand Vitality (VIT) score, which is their visibility, impact and level of consumer trust.
It found that in the UK, lesser-known “macro” influencers with smaller audiences (500K+) generate 29% of VIT, while VIP influencers created just 17%.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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’90s make-up nostalgia boosts lip gloss sales by 3% Brits are embracing ’90s make-up nostalgia, particularly super-pigmented glossy lips, with UK sales of lip gloss soaring 3% in 2019, according to new data from market analyst The NPD Group. Sales of prestige lip gloss rose dramatically during the three-month period July to September 2019, reaching a value of £4.5 million. Products that provided a sleek and shiny effect were the most popular and the average sale price of a gloss product during this time was £19.06, the report found. Light pink, rose and dark pink were the most sought-after colours. “This return to ’90s nostalgia is interesting, and we believe that other
// Pevonia UK is now an official product house at the new Monart Day Spa in the Royal Pavilion in Poundbury, Dorset. The skincare brand has provided the spa with its retail line, range of face and body rituals, and equipment for seven treatment rooms, including wellness beds, hot towel cabis and therapist stools.
popular make-up looks from the ’90s could make a comeback soon too,” said Emma Fishwick, account manager at NPD UK Beauty.
FHT Excellence Awards 2019 winners revealed The Federation of Holistic Therapists (FHT) has announced the winners of its Excellence Awards 2019. The event, which aims to recognise those raising the bar in training and practice, took place at The King’s Fund in London – alongside the FHT’s annual conference, which focuses on ways to support the integrated healthcare agenda. Speakers included Dr John Hughes, Dr Fiona Holland and Dr Laura MashallAndrews. The FHT’s Excellence Awards 2019 winners were:
inbrief
News
19
Beauty Therapist of the Year: Joanna Taplin (pictured) Complementary Therapist of the Year: Jackie Hamilton Sports Therapist of the Year: Rebecca Ayres Tutor of the Year: Carol Samuel Student of the Year: Elle Bussey Local Group Coordinator of the Year: Hazel Tudor FHT also announced that next year’s conference will focus on how therapists can support sustainable living and work practices in an ever-changing landscape.
// Some 90% of consumers want the branding of their cosmetic products to feel personal to them, found a study of 2,000 adults by luxury papermaker James Cropper. Many also want the packaging to be sustainable. However, half of respondents admitted that a decade ago that wouldn’t have been as important. // The Hair and Beauty Charity raised £9,638 for industry professionals who have fallen on hard times at its annual charity bike ride in Girona, Spain, where the team cycled for more than 300km. The event’s top fundraiser was Stacey Humphreys from L’Oréal Professional who raised £1,779. // Machine manufacturer Cutera is hosting a UK version of its global laser training workshop in Westminster, London, on February 17. The Cutera University Clinical Forum will cover laser trends and developments and feature demonstrations of the brand’s latest product launches. Tickets cost £50 each. // Just under a third (30%) of 18 to 35 year olds went on a cruise holiday in 2019 – a 6% increase on the previous year’s figures, discovered ABTA’s Annual Holiday Habit Report. The survey cited wellness food and expeditions as the key driver for millennials going on such trips. professionalbeauty.co.uk
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News
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diarydates // January 30–February 1 IMCAS Annual World Congress Palais de Congress, Paris International expo covering aesthetic procedures. +33 (0) 140 738 282 imcas.com/en // February 16–17 Professional Beauty GCC Festival Arena, Dubai The biggest industry event in Dubai, includes World Spa & Wellness Convention Dubai. +971 (0) 4375 7300 professionalbeauty.ae // March 4 UK Spa Association (UKSA) Spring Networking Event Carden Park, Chester An opportunity for UKSA members and non-members to meet and network. manager@spa-uk.org spa-uk.org
// March 6–8 Beauty Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf Trade fair for cosmetics, nails, wellness and spa. +49 211 4560 7602 beauty-duesseldorf.com // March 12–16 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Fairground District, Bologna, Italy Exhibition with separate dates for packaging, perfume and beauty. +39 02 796420 cosmoprof.com // March 29–30 Professional Beauty London ExCeL London The flagship show from the PB Group includes conferences for wellness, manufacturing, education and much more. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk
Guinot launches business coaching programme for potential franchisees Skincare brand Guinot has launched PHD, a coaching programme for salons, focused on increasing profits and making the business more sellable. PHD has been developed as a franchise conversion programme to offer a way for salons that are interested in the idea of becoming a Guinot franchise to test the water before making the commitment.
The salons will have an assessment of their business, followed by eight months of bespoke coaching in areas including marketing, social media, service ratio, therapist performance and business networking, with no obligation to convert to a franchise on completion. The programme will be run by Guinot franchise development manager Ellie Tidy and franchise marketing coordinator Olivia Seymour, who said the company is looking to take on 20 salons for the initial programme. Salons will be selected based on spend with Guinot, passion for the brand and appetite for growth, as well as practicalities such as a minimum 10year lease on the building and sufficient frontage for marketing.
Louella Belle launches free nail polish recycling scheme for salons Distributor Louella Belle has launched a free nail polish bottle recycling service for salons. RecycleBelle takes empty nail polish, gel-polish and cuticle oil bottles and disposes of them sustainably. The items are collected by a recycling company and sorted into different materials,
which are then recycled or reused. Salons can return up to four empty nail bottles in each pre-paid, eco-friendly envelope, and can send any brand’s bottles. Louella Belle customers will receive a 15% discount on their next order when they return four or more bottles.
VTCT launches bursary programme for disadvantaged beauty learners VTCT (Vocational Training Charitable Trust) has launched a Grants and Bursaries Programme to help disadvantaged learners aged 16–25 through their beauty studies. Recipients will include young people with disabilities or special educational needs, care leavers or cared for young people, those who have caring responsibilities for other members of their family and those living on a family annual income of less than £28,000. “We’re thrilled to have the means to provide greater access to technical and vocational education for
learners,” said Alan Woods, chief executive of VTCT. 15 FE colleges and private training providers in the UK have received the funding, including Cardiff & Vale College and City Liverpool College.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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020 8731 5678
info@caci-international.co.uk
caci-international.co.uk
Ultrasonic Rejuvenation Piezoelectric dermal vibrations combined with simultaneous ultrasound technology.
U LT R A S O N I C A C T U A T O R
Orbital Skin Resurfacing
Microcurrent toning combined with simultaneous LED light therapy.
WRINKLE COMB WITH LED LIGHT THERAPY
S.P.E.D® Microcurrent
MICROCURRENT PROBES WITH S . P. E . D ® T E C H N O L O G Y
Unique technologies delivered simultaneously make CACI Synergy the most effective and sought after treatment system available.
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PB Awards 2020
23
THE
final countdown With the deadline fast approaching, make it your New Year’s resolution to grow your business by entering the Professional Beauty Awards 2020
T
he entry deadline for the Professional Beauty Awards 2020 is just around the corner: January 24, so make sure you take this opportunity to put your business on the map this year and gain recognition, both within the industry and with new clients.
Why should I enter? With increasing competition both on the high street and from freelance practitioners, it’s never been more important to make your business stand out. A Professional Beauty Award provides a seal of quality that will help clients choose your business from the crowd. Zoe Douglas, spa manager at previous PB Award-winner Dormy House Hotel & Spa, Worcester, says, “Winning really put us on the map as a highly recommended spa and we saw an increase in interest from clientele from further afield, which was amazing.” An award is also a fantastic way to reward your team and boost their morale, and with recruitment tougher than ever, it can give you the edge with those candidates looking for a great business to work for. “Winning gave me the confidence to invest in a total refurbishment. It has also given the team the local and industry recognition we’ve always strived for”, says Dawn Gregory, owner of salon R Retreat, Oadby, which was a winner in 2017. Other reasons include extensive local press coverage, as well as detailed feedback if you reach the finals.
What are the categories? There are 17 categories in the Professional Beauty Awards. 13 can be entered directly. • NEW: Spa/Salon Leader of the Year • NEW: Spa/Salon Team of the Year • Boutique Salon of the Year* • Large Salon of the Year* • Boutique Spa of the Year* • Large Spa of the Year* • Nail Salon of the Year • Therapist of the Year • Employer of the Year • Midlands & North West Salon of the Year • Midlands & North West Spa of the Year • North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Salon of the Year • North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Spa of the Year • South East Salon of the Year • South East Spa of the Year • South West & Wales Salon of the Year • South West & Wales Spa of the Year
How do I enter? Entering is free via professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards but make sure you complete your entry by January 24. PB
CMJN
Sponsored by
*N ational spa and salon categories cannot be entered directly. The winners of these four categories will be the highest scorers from all relevant regional categories
C100 / M85 / J28 / N12
C13 / M18 / J30 / N00
C07 / M10 / J18 / N00
professionalbeauty.co.uk
LOGO avec fleur 1 teinte CMJN
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AES_Advert_Thunder-May19.qxp_Layout 1 03/05/2019 13:40 Page 1
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Digital
25
professional
beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world
Sam Pearce (@pottingshedspa): Thank you so much @pro_beauty for including us in this feature: CBD beauty therapy – training in the treatment trend.
Hot topic Ravita Pannu (@rpmakeup): @pro_beauty01 @bbctwo Excellent read. I’m non-stop reading and researching the industry I am a part of.
THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Does your spa/salon plan to take on any new brands or treatments in 2020?
73% YES
27% NO
PB Live on Instagram: salon owners considering shutting their business Jemma Evans, owner and therapist at Bella Grave Beauty, commented: “It’s interesting to hear how people feel like they want to close their business down after three years. It’s such a shame when so much goes into getting it to the three-year mark. I love my little beauty business and I’m just going into my third year. It’s nowhere near where I would like it to be and I feel like it’s even tougher than my first year. I’m very lucky, as I operate from somewhere I don’t have rates and high rent, but the costs are so high and it’s hard work!”
Hot topic
BBC Two show uncovers bullying in the beauty industry Francesca Rigaut, owner of Bella Mooi Beauty and Aesthetics in Cambridge, commented: “It’s sad that we, in this industry, cannot support and nurture one another. It shouldn’t be about competition and an apparent ‘set standard’ as to what beauty is or should be. I’m glad that these reported situations are being looked in to and hope more people come forward and report any mistreatment.”
Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @katsjonouchi
@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Social Surgery
26
Keeping up WITH
Among other changes, Twitter is deleting dormant accounts on its platform – but what impact could this have on your salon business? PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin explains all of the updates
A
t the end of November 2019, Twitter revealed plans to purge millions of accounts that were deemed to be “inactive”. This meant any user who had not logged in within six months would be at risk of deletion. The deletions were earmarked to start in mid-December, before Twitter paused its plan (allowing time for accounts of deceased people to be “memorialised”). But when the account culling starts, could it actually be a good thing for your business?
Explaining the policy Twitter explained it was deleting accounts both for GDPR compliance reasons, and also to “improve credibility and eliminate the ‘undue sense of importance’ inflated follower counts can bring”. Twitter has faced a large problem with “bots” and fake accounts over the past few years, which has created an air of negativity when it comes to Twitter’s use as a business tool. Previously, Twitter’s attempts to remove these accounts only scratched the surface. By setting this six-month deadline, Twitter will be able to cut down a much greater number of these fake accounts, along with generally dormant ones. This will, of course, mean that follower counts will drop – regardless of whether you have artificially inflated that number. Many of these “bots” follow genuine accounts to appear real to Twitter’s algorithms. So, how might this actually prove to be better for salons? For starters, while numbers may drop, this should
be reflected across the board on all accounts – and you’ll know that the followers left are at least “active” according to Twitter.
Taking advantage This presents the perfect opportunity to get on Twitter, go after your audience and get some great engagement from them. Make sure you’re checking updated audience information through Twitter Analytics, then start working on content that’s specific for them. There are other benefits from losing so many accounts. When you signed up for Twitter, you might have found the username you wanted was already taken. Through the deletions, that username may become available. Check to see if the account using it is active; if not, you should be able to claim it when the account is deleted. One word of warning on this. Changing your username on Twitter might confuse clients who know your current brand. An option is to register a new account using that username – and then use it solely to point clients to your existing profile. Finally, as another part of Twitter’s updates, the platform is now trialling a tweet-scheduling option. Previously, scheduling tweets on Twitter either required going through their Ads service, or using a third-party tool. From an ease-of-use perspective, this could help with planning content further in advance and cuts out these “middle man” services. With all these changes in the work, 2020 could be the year we see a resurgence in Twitter usage. PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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The Premier Hair Removal Option The excel HR combines the two gold-standard wavelengths for laser hair removal - the 755nm Alexandrite and Cutera’s pioneered 1064 nm Nd:YAG - for quick, safe, effective treatments on ALL skin types. • Superior sapphire contact cooling, maximising comfort • Proprietary truPulse technology with Index Matching • Incudes the signature ‘celebrity lunchtime’ Laser Genesis facial Features:
excel HR Results Hair
Vascular
Before
After 1 treatment Photos courtesy of Cutera CRC
Before
After 2 treatments Photos courtesy of Cutera CRC
#LaserGenesis Cutera UK. Head Office 42 Kingston Space Ltd, Molly Millars Lane, Wokingham RG412PQ 01462 419 937 | info.uk@cutera.com | cutera.co.uk
@cutera_UK
excel HR also includes Cutera’s signature facial skin rejuvenation procedure, Laser Genesis. This unique, nodowntime ‘celebrity’ treatment delivers gentle micro-pulses of laser light and is designed to help polish and perfect a wide range of skin rejuvenation concerns, acting as the perfect additional revenue stream for your business.
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Industry Events
29
Out About
Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa
TPOT SHINE YOUR LIGHT AWARDS CAMELLIA’S TEA HOUSE, LONDON PB’s editor Eve Oxberry and deputy editor Amanda Pauley attended TPOT’s (The Power of Touch) 2019 Shine Your Light Awards, which recognises the hard work and passion of beauty professionals who do amazing work giving back to their local community. Laura Clarke (bottom left) won the Inspirational Therapist Award, Marc Innes (middle left) scooped Inspirational Trainer and Claire Caddick (top left) took home Inspirational Leader. The judges were so impressed with the calibre of applicants this year that they even created a new category, Rising Star, which they awarded to Elisa Van Oyen (top right). After the ceremony, attendees networked and enjoyed prosecco and cakes in the London-based tea room. The event was organised by TPOT’s founder Michelle Hammond, who presented all the awards.
SPA LIFE UK 2019 HILTON DOUBLETREE, COVENTRY A wealth of inspirational talks and advice was shared at the 2019 Spa Life UK Convention. More than 450 spa professionals attended the two-day conference, which this year was focused on nurturing those who work in, and make, the sector great. Guests had a chance to talk to suppliers in the foyer as well as listen to advice from performance coach Jean Pierre De Villers, who spoke about how to inspire and influence as a leader; Google analytical lead Ailis O’Connell, who discussed monetising spa and wellness through digital; and Lanserhof UK general manager Sheila McCann, who talked about leading change through technology.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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30 Industry Events
NHF/NBF BUSINESS AWARDS ST PANCRAS RENAISSANCE HOTEL, LONDON Tranquillity Beauty Studio in North Wales scooped the top beauty prize at the National Hairdressers’ Federation (NHF) and National Beauty Federation (NBF) Business Awards in November, taking home the trophy for Best Independent Beauty Salon. There were 16 awards on the night, with other winners including Tina Parsons of Burghley Hair-Beauty-Academy, who was awarded Outstanding Contribution to the Hair or Beauty Industry. The association also announced its rebrand on the night, to become the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF), with chief executive Hilary Hall commenting, “now is the right time to put hair and beauty under one roof.”
EMEPELLE MENOPAUSE MASTERCLASS THE ALLBRIGHT MAYFAIR, LONDON Amanda learned about the true impact of the change on women’s skin at Emepelle’s Menopause Masterclass. The panel, which included brand ambassador and celebrity facialist Teresa Tarmey, dermatologist Dr Emma Wedgeworth and menopause expert Dr Joanne Hobson, discussed the hormonal changes caused by menopause and how women should change their skincare accordingly. Key findings included that women can experience up to 51 different symptoms with the menopause, and during the first five years of the change 30% of collagen is lost in the skin. All attendees were gifted Emepelle’s Serum and Night Cream, which helps invigorate the natural function of skin affected by menopause.
THE HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY PUB QUIZ THE SEKFORDE, FARRINGDON, LONDON The Professional Beauty editorial team – editor Eve Oxberry, deputy editor Amanda Pauley, social media editor Chris Halpin and intern Kieran Read, along with Aesthetic Medicine deputy editor Georgia Seago – attended The Hair and Beauty Charity’s November fundraiser event in Farringdon, London. The Professional Beauty team was pretty chuffed to come fourth out of seven teams in the charity’s hair-themed pub quiz, although there was a new beauty round added this year to reflect the charity’s expansion (it recently rebranded from The Hairdressers’ Charity). All funds from the night went to hair and beauty professionals who have fallen on hard times. The Professional Beauty Group is The Hair and Beauty Charity’s official charity partner. PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Advertorial
Cryoskin are proud and pleased to announce the introduction of the newly Cryoskin are proud and pleased to designed and patented CRYOGLOBE announce the introduction of the newly made from surgical grade steel and filled designed and patented CRYOGLOBE with freeze retaining fluids to maintain its made from surgical grade steel and filled freeze activity and cryomicrocirculation. with freeze retaining fluids to maintain its freeze activity and cryomicrocirculation. ANTI-AGEING & SKIN REJUVENATION
Cryoglobes improve the general condition of the skin by increasing
oxygen and nutrient supply to theREJUVENATION skin. Frequent use of Cryoglobes ANTI-AGEING & SKIN tightens the improve skin andthe prevents wrinkles. During Cryoglobe treatment Cryoglobes general condition of thea skin by increasing the skinand vessels and supply capillaries undergo a period of oxygen nutrient to the skin. Frequent usevasoconstriction of Cryoglobes
(constriction of blood vessels) followed vasodilation (dilation of blood tightens the skin and prevents wrinkles.by During a Cryoglobe treatment vessels). This causes toxins stored in the layers of the skin to be broken the skin vessels and capillaries undergo a period of vasoconstriction down and flushed away. The intense cold collagen production (constriction of blood vessels) followed byactivates vasodilation (dilation of blood in the deeper layers of the skin, leaving your skin fi rm and tight. vessels). This causes toxins stored in the layers of the skin to beAfter broken several applications, clients noticed skin becoming down and flushed away. Thehave intense coldthe activates collagen smoother production and more even toned with regained elasticity and an in the deeper layers of the skin, leaving your skin firmimproved and tight.overall After ‘youthful’ feeling. several applications, clients have noticed the skin becoming smoother and more even toned with regained elasticity and an improved overall
APPEARANCE OF WRINKLES AND FINE LINES ARE REDUCED •APPEARANCE Production of collagen in fuller, more youthful beautiful OFresulting WRINKLES AND FINEand LINES rejuvenated skin ARE REDUCED ‘youthful’ feeling.
Puffiness around the eyes is signifi cantlymore reduced or totally •• Production of collagen resulting in fuller, youthful and eliminated beautiful rejuvenated • Pores on theskin face and neck arereduced in size, limiting the intake of toxins, dirt and the grime • Puffiness around eyes is significantly reduced or totally eliminated •• Benefi ts are system, flushing in away up toxins, Pores on thelymphatic face and neck arereduced size,built limiting the intake soothe infl ammation and irritation, removing puffi ness and redness of toxins, dirt and grime •• Skin conditions like Dermatitis, Acne built and Psoriasis Benefi ts are lymphatic system, Eczema, flushing away up toxins,can be relieved soothe inflammation and irritation, removing puffiness and redness Metabolic rate increases. Endorphin levels are and stimulated. •• Skin conditions like Dermatitis, Eczema, Acne PsoriasisAfter can one session you can see the reduction of lines, puffi ness and a clearer be relieved skin colour • Metabolic rate increases. Endorphin levels are stimulated. After one session you can see the reduction of lines, puffiness and a clearer skin colour
USE WITH THE FOLLOWING TREATMENTS: • Semi-permanent makeup USE WITH THE FOLLOWING TREATMENTS: • Coolifting gun • Semi-permanent makeup • Vein removal • Coolifting gun • Skin needling • Vein removal • Injectables • Skin needling • Face peels • Injectables • Radio frequency • Face peels • Microdermabrasion • Radio frequency • IPL • Microdermabrasion • Waxing • IPL • Laser • Waxing • Dermaplaning • Laser • Dermaplaning
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CryoGlobe Newsletter v3.indd 1 7215 Cryosthetics.indd 1
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Advertorial
YOUR SUCCESS IS OUR RESPONSIBILITY NATURALIA SINTESI founded in 1976, specialise in exclusive professional cosmetic products combining NATURE, BIOTECHNOLOGY, EXPERIENCE AND INNOVATION. Our brand name is also a declaration of the company’s vision. We are pioneers in the bio-technological cosmetology industry and implement our discoveries in salons and spas by using laboratory technologies.
PROFESSIONAL P GEL
TOP LINE MCL100
40% pure Glycolic acid in a buffered gel form derived from plants. The holy grail for exfoliation, its botanical properties improves skin blemishes caused by conditions such as Psoriasis, Melasma and Seborrheic keratosis. Also used to treat scarring, skin discoloration and signs of aging, like fine lines and wrinkles.
This brewer’s yeast-derived Beta-glucan helps to increase the production of collagen and gives a boost to the immune system. By boosting the Langerhans cells in the epidermis and stimulating the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid, Beta-glucan plumps those fine lines and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. It is also high in antioxidants, which helps protect us from oxidative stress, which leads to premature aging. This divine ingredient helps lower infections and helps speed up healing of wounds.
THIS IS OUR GLOBAL STIMULATION TREATMENT WHERE WE COMBINE PROFESSIONAL P GEL AND TOP LINE MCL 100 WE GUARANTEE THAT YOUR SUCCESS IS OUR RESPONSIBILITY AND PRIORITY •
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Guaranteed customer satisfaction means returning customers! • Quality and efficacy is our key for your success!
Not only will you receive the products but you’ll receive the treatment methods to stimulate and correct the skin. It’s a cosmetic but works at a deeper level!
For more details please contact Naturalia Sintesi UK LTD at: www.naturaliasintesi.co.uk
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0208 059 0098
10/12/2019 17:00
33 Business Trends
Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market
Insider
With social media now one of the biggest drivers for attracting new and repeat business, making sure you’re up to date with how these platforms work is crucial. Therefore, it’s no surprise that just under half of you (44%) would like to learn more about social media scheduling and implement a strategy into your business ASAP, understanding that delivering the right content regularly will boost your turnover. Find out how Twitter’s decision to delete dormant accounts will affect your salon on page 26. Although social media has been a blessing in terms of getting your brand message out there to more people, it’s a double-edged sword, with more than a fifth (21%) of beauty business owners receiving abusive direct messages (DMs) from clients. Award-winning nail tech Michelle Brookes reveals how to deal with social media abuse in a professional manner on page 87.
On the spot Which digital skill would you most like to swot up on? 1. Social media scheduling 2. Email marketing 3. Website design/build 4. SEO (search engine optimisation)
21%
Oliver Bonas
beauty
November 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
45% 36% 19% BETTER
have received abusive DMs from customers on social media
Waxing is your most popular form of hair removal
Take part in our Insider feature
SAME
WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
71% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
31% 41% 28% BETTER
WORSE
SAME
Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Business Trends
34
Insider
spa
On the spot
Matalan
With “wellness bedrooms” – private spaces where spa guests can tend to their health needs – on the rise, offering clients this kind of stay is becoming more important. The elements that you say are crucial to making this type of spa bedroom work are: appropriate aromatherapy-based toiletries (45%), healthy drinks and snacks (18%), a meditation or workout space (18%) and range of affirmation cards (8%) to boost mental wellbeing. However, looking after your own wellbeing is just as important, which is why many of you are trying to implement a healthier work-life balance in 2020. Tactics to achieve this include switching off all electrical devices at night (27%) so you can truly unwind, scheduling in some much-needed downtime every week (18%) and delegating more responsibilities to capable team members (17%). Check out Harrogate’s latest nature-themed destination spa on page 74.
What do you think is the most important element in a wellness bedroom? 1. Appropriate toiletries (e.g. aromatherapy-based) 2. Access to healthy drinks/snacks 3. Meditation/workout space 4. Affirmation cards
November 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
55% 27% 18% BETTER
73 %
SAME
WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
no longer have single-use plastics in spa
49% How do you maintain a healthy work-life balance? 1. Switch off devices at night 2. Flexible working hours 3. Schedule in downtime 4. Delegate more to team
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
46% BETTER
18%
36% WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Pro Bty London 2020 - PUK Single Pg Ad.qxp_Layout 1 26/11/2019 14:29 Page 1
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Insider
nails
With gel-polish manicures still the top treatment with your clients, it’s no wonder that the damage caused by improper gel removal – i.e. picking – is the most common form of correction work you do in salon (33%). Other issues you often treat include weak (23%), dry/dehydrated (17%) and peeling (9%) nails. Meanwhile, with the spotlight still on the damage plastic is having on the environment, more than a quarter (26%) of you have now switched to using biodegradable glitters in treatment. Making sure clients remain loyal to your techs and come back regularly to keep their nails in tip-top condition has been a big focus for you, and it shows in the 32% increase in appointments in comparison to last year’s figures. Just under two thirds of clients (60%) only leave it two-to-three weeks between appointments, while just over a quarter (26%) give it a month. Check out the latest nail launches on page 90.
On the spot Which nail issue do you correct in salon the most? 1. Gel-polish removal damage 2. Weak 3. Dry/dehydrated 4. Peeling
26
%
CND for The Blonds SS20
Business Trends
36
November 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
32% 49% 19% use biodegradable nail glitters
How long do your clients leave, on average, between appointments? 1. Two-to-three weeks 2. One month 3. Six weeks
METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from November 29 to December 6, regarding business for the month to November 30. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.
BETTER
SAME
WORSE
NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK
25 HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
11% 66% 23% BETTER
WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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FINALIST 2019
ANTI-AGEING MADE EASY Venus Freeze Plus™ delivers non-surgical anti-aging treatments that work to tighten skin and smoothen out fine lines and wrinkles.
APPLICATORS NON-INVASIVE ANTI-AGEING TREATMENTS AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL (ATC) DIAMONDPOLAR™
REAL TIME THERMAL FEEDBACK
Small treatment areas
NO PAIN, NO DOWNTIME & SAFE FOR ALL SKIN TYPES
OCTIPOLAR™
Large treatment areas
Before
After After Courtesy of Dolce Vida Medical Spa
Results after 6 treatments
(MP)2 TECHNOLOGY
+
= Before
MULTI-POLAR RADIO FREQUENCY
PULSED ELECTRO MAGNETIC FIELDS
After Courtesy of VenusConcept
MULTI-POLAR RF & PULSED ELECTRO MAGNETIC FIELDS
Results after 8 treatments
0208 748 2221 info.uk@venusconcept.com
www.venusconcept.com Before
After
SHAPE PHYSIQUES STRENGTHEN YOUR BUSINESS
StimSureÂŽ Introducing the new electromagnetic muscle toning and building technology from CynoSure
1.0 Tesla per applicator 24,000 contractions during a 20 minute treatment session 4 pre-programmed treatments for the abdomen, buttocks and thigh areas Non-invasive and safe applicator Suitable for most patients To build your body contouring portfolio visit cynosure.co.uk/stimsure or call 01628 522252
T&C: StimSure is a non-invasive body contouring system, CE cleared for muscular atrophy, with recommended application to strengthen and tighten the abdominal, gluteal and thigh muscles. StimSure is an electrically operated medical device generating an electromagnetic field and is able to contract/stimulate the muscles. Individual results may vary and are not guaranteed. Treatments are not intended for weight-loss or for people who are obese. There are no reports of side effects. The adverse effects may include, but are not limited to: muscular pain, temporary muscle spasm, temporary joint or tendon pain, local erythema or skin redness, premature menstruation and/or lower abdominal cramps. StimSure is only available in selected countries within EMEA and APAC regions, not available in the USA. Models for illustrative purposes only and not an actual consumer of the product.
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39 Ward’s World
This
dayand
age
While dealing with a spectrum of age groups can be a challenge for any manager, it’s diversity that gives salon teams their strength, writes HELLEN WARD
T
hey say that only a fool mixes business and pleasure yet it’s a lesson few employers learn. How many potentially lucrative business opportunities have I tried to push the way of friends and family only to wish I’d listened to my intuition, forgotten my good intentions and not created a headache for myself. Because it is true – like a lot of old wives’ tales – business and pleasure just don’t mix. Recently a company chief executive in the public eye was fired for having a relationship with one of his employees. Much was made in the media about whether this was the right course of action, and I believe it was. No boss should be carrying on with the staff and it surely compromises the workplace integrity for both parties involved if a person is reporting into somebody they have – or worse, used to have – an intimate relationship with.
Lots of my cohorts would agree that business for them is fundamentally H to H – human to human. Most of our key associations are relationship based – think of your favourite company, supplier or manufacturer – normally it’s the people that are the reason for your loyalty. As this might not be so relevant to tech-based young people, we can help them learn to value the H to H element. And, they can teach us a thing or two about technological advances (as well as keeping us acting and feeling younger).
In the real world, life throws us curveballs and emotions get in the way
Generation gap With many people meeting their future partner through work, how as a boss do you cope with the fallout when love turns sour? It comes down to how we deal with the generation gap in general. Ask any 50-something director about the most challenging elements of their role and HR will undoubtedly come up. It’s hard to communicate just how fundamentally things have changed since I was an apprentice. My young team, like my children, are very aware of their rights, and that can’t be a bad thing, but in the real world, life throws us curveballs and emotions get in the way. Being a baby boomer trying to understand millennials or generation Z can be enriching. There have been a number of studies that say age-diverse teams are more effective and successful, with each generation bringing different skill sets to the workplace.
Gel together A recent study from the University of California found that there are two distinct forms of intelligence: fluid, which is our ability to think logically and process information; and crystallised, which is gained through accumulated knowledge and experience. Researchers found that increases in crystallised intelligence were roughly twice as valuable as increases in fluid intelligence. Crystallised intelligence is more prevalent in my age group, while fluid intelligence, like reaction time, typically peaks in young adulthood and then steadily declines, so is more innate in younger generations. The conclusion? Both types need to come together to build a balanced work environment. By its very nature, H to H always means boundaries may be crossed, and in the workplace, somebody has to make sure that doesn’t happen. Or if it does, valuable team members don’t let their private lives interfere with their career potential – sounds like the perfect job for a baby boomer like me. PB
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Business Tips
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ask
the EXPERTS
Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
How should I adjust my tanning treatments for clients with eczema? Firstly, the good news is that clients with eczema can still use fake tan; it just requires a little more thought and preparation. Eczema is a condition where patches of skin become inflamed, itchy, red, cracked and rough. Blisters may sometimes occur. It is important to refrain from tanning during eczema flare-ups or when there are open wounds. Once the skin has healed, usually around a fortnight after a flare-up, clients can safely tan if they heed the following advice. I would recommend looking at the ingredients list in the tanning product in case there is anything that could cause sensitivity. For clients with eczema, a gentler formula with natural ingredients is best. Whatever the product, I would recommend performing a 24-hour patch test to check skin suitability and sensitivity before tanning. If irritation occurs, don’t use. Once you have established that there is no sensitivity, advise clients to condition their skin regularly with moisturiser in the weeks leading up to the tan application. This is especially important for eczema sufferers. Just prior to tan application, I recommend applying a good barrier cream to dry areas, especially those affected by eczema. When applying the tanning product, it is best avoid direct application
to eczema-affected areas. When unaffected areas have been tanned, use a blender brush or back of a velvet tanning mitt to glaze over the problem area. This will help blend in the tan and prevent dry areas from absorbing too much product, which can produce darker patches. Post treatment, clients should continue to moisturise regularly to hydrate and prolong their new glow.
Shoned Owen is a tanning expert and founder of paraben, alcohol and cruelty-free vegan sunless tan company Tanya Whitebits.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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How can I work with influencers to help raise my salon’s profile? When I first created Navy Professional, I had a really small marketing and advertising budget and knew the only way I could get my product out there was by inviting influencers to try my products in the hope that they would go on to recommend them. I decided to allocate a small quantity of stock to send out to influencers and I initially presumed that the bigger the following, the more impact and reach they would have. However, I soon found out that this was not the case, and over the past year it’s become more evident that an influencer with a lower audience, but with the correct content, has far more power online. Creating relatable content is the key to being an online influencer. At Navy Professional, we now have a dedicated team of ambassadors/ influencers and our focus isn’t on sales, it’s about brand knowledge and awareness. We actively promote influencers in return for honest reviews and creative content. We also invite them to events to discuss new products and ideas and find that this is great to get first-hand industry feedback. Before choosing an influencer to work with, take time to watch them to make sure they are the best fit for your brand. When you do engage, avoid sales-style posts and wording. Instead, be prepared to “plant seeds” Rebecca Crawforth is owner and director of Navy rather than focusing on Professional, which immediate sales. Be relatable manufactures nail and to your audience and know beauty tools for professionals. your demographic.
With an increasing awareness of celebrity culture through social media, clients now have more access to inspirational nail designs and have started to ask for these to be replicated in their local salons. Update your skills by booking on a nail art course taught by a reputable nail artist. To provide nail art, you will need a level of creativity as well as confidence. Practise popular designs and experiment with new ones so you are comfortable in creating them and can then build a portfolio of looks to offer your clients. Create designs on tester wands to showcase your nail art selection and update them regularly. Display the wands at reception and in manicure and pedicure areas so that clients are introduced to your offering. Offer plenty of variations from simple options to statement nails for adventurous clients. Advertise by wearing nail art on yourself as clients will often want to copy you. Spread the word by posting designs on social media demonstrating your different skills, such as ombré, stamping and foil work, or share other images that you know you could recreate, as inspiration, but make sure to tag the original artist. @dailynailspa for Susan Gerrard Beauty Academy
Business Tips
I want to introduce on-trend nail art. Where should I start?
Susan Gerrard is chairman of Gerrard International and The Susan Gerrard Beauty Academy, a Habia Centre of Expertise offering courses including nail art.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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11/12/2019 14:39
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Business Tips
44
What are the key factors to consider when analysing my business?
What’s the best way to sell body treatment packages to clients? It can be really difficult to get commitment from clients when it comes to courses of body treatments, particularly in the UK where we cover up our bodies so much. Clients can have so many objections. They may be concerned it will not work, or worry about the cost and commitment. However, like with most things, it is all about education. By explaining that improvement can only progress gradually as the body changes, your clients will understand the need for a course of treatments. With Endospheres therapy, we often offer short taster sessions where we get the chance to show the impact of the treatment as it works on five different processes of the body. This gives a well-trained therapist time to explain that with each treatment the body will improve and the service will, therefore, have a greater impact. As the trend in non-surgical treatments increases, clients are looking less for quick fixes and are gaining a better understanding of a more holistic approach to changing body shape or improving cellulite. They understand that to make Chantal Merighi is director of The Fenix Group UK, which changes to the body, the distributes the Endospheres lymphatic system needs to be non-surgical approach bodyrestored and circulation needs contouring and cellulite device. to be increased.
The beauty industry is growing at an extremely fast rate and becoming more competitive every year. Therefore, it is crucial to find out what is and isn’t working in your salon or spa. Analysing your business is vital so as a starting point, make sure you choose the right software to give you all the accurate information you need. The two key performance indicators to analyse constantly are your wage percentage and management of white space. The key to managing your wage percentage is to ensure your therapists are working on as high revenue treatments as possible. Of course, there is always going to be a variety of treatments in your offering but getting this mix right is vital to keeping your wage percentage at a level that will ensure profitability. Analysis of your wage percentage every week is essential and will show quite clearly if you have your therapists working on the right mix of treatments. It is so important to have a senior member of your team managing white space every day. This will enable you to clearly see how your days and weeks are mapping out and to react accordingly to fill the diary as quickly as possible. Full diaries mean happy days. Other key areas of your business to analyse are re-booking rates, retail sale percentage versus treatment revenue, and the number of new clients you are attracting per month.
Anna Nickless is director of AB Beauty Consultancy, which she launched this year with Bonnie Platts. The duo previously ran the Lavender & Stone salon group in the South East.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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If clients are looking to really relax and get the best night’s sleep possible, vetivert, camomile and sandalwood should be the go-to blend. While lavender is most recognised as being great for promoting relaxation, I would argue that vetivert and wild camomile have the strongest sedative properties. If clients want to simply unwind and chill out after a busy day, a blend of ylang ylang, petitgrain and lavender is great. On an emotional level, the aromas of essential oils have a dynamic effect. Fragrances from natural products have been used for thousands of years, and in more recent times numerous studies have revealed that various psychophysiological effects can be attributed to fragrance inhalation. The sense of smell is the most primitive of our senses and is linked to the deepest parts of the brain – the parts that govern basic instincts, memories and emotions. On a physical level, because essential oils are made up of very small molecules, they are able to penetrate into our bloodstream. Essential oils are used extensively in the spa industry to help ease muscular aches and pains, improve circulation and ease sinus congestion. In skincare products, by penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin, essential oils can have a positive effect, such as optimising the cellular renewal process, enhancing blood circulation and addressing problems such as acne, eczema and ageing skin.
Christina Salcedas is the global director of education for essential oil brand Aromatherapy Associates.
Business Tips
Which essential oils help to aid sleep and how do they work?
What are the benefits of dermaplaning compared with other skin-exfoliating treatments? Dermaplaning differs from exfoliation techniques such as chemical peels and microdermabrasion as there is no chemical product, suction or crystals involved in the treatment. Instead, dermaplaning uses a sterile blade to gently scrape dead skin cells and peach fuzz hair from your client’s face. Its purpose is to make your client’s skin radiant, youthful and smooth. It is a low-risk procedure and side effects may include slight redness in your client’s face for a few hours post-treatment. Dermaplaning is similar to shaving. Your client’s skin is exposed to harsh environmental toxins, irritants and sun damage on a daily basis. This can cause the top layer to appear dull and make clients to look older. Dermaplaning clears away those damaged skin cells so newer ones can emerge. During a dermaplaning procedure, your client shouldn’t feel any pain. You will use an electronic or manual dermaplaning blade to scrape over their skin and this will continue for 20 minutes, as you gently work to exfoliate. After the treatment is finished, you can soothe your client’s skin with the appropriate product and then apply sunscreen to protect it. Your client may notice that their skin looks brighter immediately after a dermaplaning treatment. As any redness subsides, they will be able to see the results even more clearly. Results of dermaplaning aren’t Kim Hunjan is an experienced long lasting. After three weeks to beauty therapist, entrepreneur, social media a month, the results will have influencer and the creative faded and so clients will have to director of LV College, which offers have continuous treatments to dermaplanning courses. maintain results.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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11/12/2019 14:42
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Follow us PBDirectIns professionalbeautydirect
14/05/2019 09:38
47 Interview
Talking to...
STEPH Stevenson
I
The founder of Marie Claire Jet Style tells Amanda Pauley how her express beauty salon concept is set to transform commuters’ waiting time at the nation’s train stations and airports
n the saturated beauty market, it’s rare when someone comes along with a business idea that challenges the status quo. However, entrepreneur Steph Stevenson has set her sights on becoming one of these industry disruptors, with ambitious plans to roll out express beauty and hair salon concept Marie Claire Jet Style across 19 UK train stations and 180 airports internationally over the next five years. The salons, launched in collaboration with online hair and beauty magazine Marie Claire, will offer travellers either standalone or combined manicure, pedicure and blow-dry treatments in 45-minute slots via a multi-therapist approach, “taking the three hours women would usually spend in salon having these services and working that right down”, says Stevenson. Although Marie Claire has licensed its name to Stevenson’s company to help the brand attract the title’s
readership, Jet Style is a standalone business which is funding the entire project. “Marie Claire is a very experienced hair and beauty brand so I knew I wanted to collaborate with them for increased exposure and they loved the Jet Style concept. However, the company now wants to partner with us which is really exciting. It’s a conversation that will be had this year,” says Stevenson. The first Marie Claire Jet Style salon will open at London’s King’s Cross St Pancras train station on February 14, 2020, while three more are slated to open at Heathrow Airport in terminals two, three and five in the first quarter of the year too. All coffee on-site will be provided by mega chain Starbucks. “There are 250 million customers who use the railway network every year, so it’s strange that there isn’t anywhere in these retail hubs for women who >
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Interview
48
are walking past to utilise their time while waiting for the train,” says Stevenson. “Plus, just under half (49%) of travellers who go through Heathrow Airport are women and they have 178 minutes of nothing to do except browse duty free, which quite frankly, if you travel a lot, you’re over.”
Express delivery
busiest time of year “no contractors are allowed to work there during that month”, she adds. The build is scheduled to start on January 6 and strict interior design requirements have to be met also. “St Pancras is a listed building so you’re not allowed to change the floor or touch the brickwork. Any refurbishment must be done with complete care for its heritage, which is lovely, but it does mean you have to tailor your design plans to fit to that environment,” says Stevenson. All the salons will feature white and pale blush pink furniture. The business will also have an app so customers can pre-book appointments but the biggest chunk of revenue will come from walk-ins. “At the moment, a woman won’t be thinking about going to an airport or train station to have her nails or hair done, so the biggest challenge for us will be changing people’s mindsets,” explains Stevenson. “However, the guy at Starbucks told me that once upon a time people didn’t walk down the street drinking coffee either. We’re going to make women aware that we’re in these convenient locations, offering speedy and affordable treatments (prices will start from around £40), to make their lives as easy as possible.”
Just under half of travellers who go through Heathrow Airport are women and they have 178 minutes of nothing to do
King’s Cross St Pancras was chosen as the launchpad for the first site because of its incredible footfall – 57 million travellers pass through the train station each year. However, even though moving into this type of retail environment has its benefits, such as being able to open earlier and shut later (7:30am–10pm), it hasn’t come without its challenges. “You’re restricted security-wise on the contractors you can use for the build as you can only work with the railway network’s appointed ones,” explains Stevenson. The original plan was to open in December but because it’s the station’s
Commuter focused
Clockwise from top: Steph Stevenson; inside Marie Claire Jet Style at King’s Cross St Pancras; the retail area at Marie Claire Jet Style
A global rollout of Marie Claire Jet Style is currently planned across a contracted 19 UK railway stations and 180 airport hubs over the next three to five years. London Waterloo will be the next train station-based site, opening in 2020, as it has an incredible 113 million footfall, and the >
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This page: mock-ups of Marie Claire Jet Style’s interior
company is also in talks to launch at London Bridge, New Street and Victoria stations. “Our business plan is based on expansion across the next five years but some of these negotiations with the train stations and airports can take up to a year, so it’s an ongoing roll out,” says Stevenson. “We want to make sure that we completely deliver on the brand message and experience, so we don’t want to rush it.” The company has also had enquiries from big hotel groups about launching the concept in their locations, and some of the business’s current partnerships have even asked about adding more beauty services to the menu. “I’m looking at more of what I call ‘working’ treatments, such as peels or LED facials that can deliver results in 10 minutes
as opposed to an hour,” she says. “I also want clients to have the option to multi-layer services, so lashes, brows and make-up are also a future possibility.”
Beauty talk Stevenson was also appointed a board member of the National Hair & Beauty Federation in 2019 (NHBF), working to shape the industry against future struggles. “I joined because I wanted to be part of the voice of the industry going to Government to create change for the better,” she says. “Regulation is a massive issue at the moment because around 35% of beauty businesses are not running to the standards and code of conduct the NHBF would expect to see. There are also no consequences for these businesses for not doing it properly, which is why we’re working to potentially create a specific Government register.” The entrepreneur also has an award-winning destination salon HNB in Poole, Dorset, which she has owned for 17 years, offering beauty, hair and aesthetic treatments under one roof. In January, the salon will be opening a cosmetic dentistry clinic on-site “as I’m always looking for the next big trend”, says Stevenson. PB
KEY DATES 2003 Stevenson opens her first hair and beauty salon HNB in Poole, Dorset 2009 Launches hair extension range Salon Confidential, which is sold in high-street retailers 2015 Works as lead educator in the UK for hair care brand Living Proof 2017 Creates the Marie Claire Jet Style concept and approaches train stations and airports with the idea 2019 Joins the NHBF as a board member 2020 Marie Claire Jet Style salons to open at King’s Cross St Pancras and Heathrow Airport Terminals 2, 3 and 5
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11/12/2019 15:02
British Brands
51
GREAT
beauty BRITISH
With Brexit looming, we take a closer look at some of the biggest brands founded, and in many cases manufactured, on British shores
W
hatever your political stance, there’s no doubt that we’re living in uncertain times; we’ve been on tenterhooks waiting to hear the outcome of the Brexit deal for what feels like forever, and small business owners will be feeling the pressure around this. We’re still in the dark as to how Brexit will pan out, but chances are you might have already felt the shockwaves, with the weakening value of the pound causing the price of some overseas products to soar. With this in mind, we’re shining a light on some of the best beauty brands the UK has to offer. “Brexit is likely to lead to a change in regulations, slowing down the importing of products and also putting additional charges and taxes on to products that are being imported,” says Iain Wood, sales and marketing director of The Edge Nail & Beauty.
Supply chain “Selecting a British brand will give you certainty of supply, removing the ambiguity of whether your current distributor
will be able to maintain consistent inventory in the future or even continue to supply at all,” adds Matt Taylor, brand and education manager for aromatherapy skincare and spa brand Eve Taylor. “Imagine the distributor of your long-standing product range announcing the discontinuation of the brand in the UK due to Brexit. “This would take away your choice of changing in your own time and force you into a freefall of selecting a new range based on quick availability.” CACI International managing director Dean Nathanson adds: “By choosing a British supplier, there’s no risk of them losing distribution rights or of the parent company not having any representation in the UK.” If you’re considering a change in supplier (due to Brexit, or any other reason), we invite you to get acquainted with some of the most exciting beauty brands to come out of Great Britain, from household names to up and coming companies. >
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52 British Brands
3D-lipo Launched: 2010 HQ: Rugby, Warwickshire Manufactured in the UK?: No Best-seller: 3D-Ultimatepro After 20 years in the aesthetics industry, managing director Roy Cowley felt there was a gap in the market for a non-surgical device that treated fat reduction, cellulite and skin tightening, so 3D-lipo was born. Since then, the company has launched numerous combinedtechnology machines for both face and body. 01788 220451 3d-lipo.co.uk
Apraise Launched: 2014 HQ: Inchinnan, Scotland Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Professional Eyelash and Eyebrow Tint Dark Brown Apraise offers an Eyelash and Eyebrow Tint that promises long-lasting, vibrant colour and luminous shine to transform clients’ lashes. Colour pigment technology and beeswax fuse together to penetrate deep into the hair shaft. The company also sells Power Serum, Eye Cream and Eye Serum. 0141 814 1420 apraise.co.uk
Aqua Natural Launched: 1989 HQ: Wellingborough, Northamptonshire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Aqua Natural Strip Sugaring Aqua Natural manufactures its products using a special blend of sugar syrups, making them gentle on skin, and giving smooth, consistent application. It’s completely water soluble and 100% biodegradable. Plus, it’s registered with the Vegan Society and approved by Cruelty Free International – ideal for vegan clients. 01933 441818 aquanatural.co.uk
Ashmira Botanica Launched: 2016 HQ: Wellington, Somerset Manufactured in the UK?: No Best-seller: Mulberry Peelable Wax Ashmira Botanica aims to turn your clients’ waxing appointments from a chore to a treatment to enjoy, with mandarin and basil-fragranced wax that applies thinly and dries quickly, promising to limit ingrown hairs and redness. 01823 428588 ashmirabotanica.com
Aromatherapy Associates Launched: 1985 HQ: Brentford, Middlesex Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Deep Relax Bath & Shower Oil Aromatherapy Associates hand blends essential oils and pure botanicals to create a range of body and skincare products with therapeutic effects on the mind, body and soul. The brand was founded on the belief that a quality aromatherapy experience holds the key to better overall wellbeing. 020 8569 7030 aromatherapyassociates.com
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BC Softwear
BeautyLab
Launched: 2001 HQ: Maidenhead Manufactured in the UK?: No Best-seller: Healthy bathrobe BC Softwear was founded by Barbara Cooke, which is where the BC of BC Softwear comes from. The company manufactures and supplies bathrobes, towels and slippers to 26 countries worldwide. Many spas and salons choose bespoke embroidered bathrobes and towels which are designed, and hand finished, by the embroidery team. 0845 210 4000 bcsoftwear.co.uk
Launched: 2001 HQ: London Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Glyco-Wash 5% BeautyLab London specialises in researching ground-breaking ingredients and pioneering formulations to produce beauty products that meet the demands of today’s consumer. Each skincare formula, abundant in natural actives, oils, gemstones, peptides and proteins, aims to re-activate and re-educate the skin functions, delivering both instant and long-term benefits. 0345 217 1360 gerrardinternational.com
British Brands
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CACI International Launched: 1992 HQ: Hertfordshire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Synergy System Known as the non-surgical face lift, CACI develops machines that aim to deliver instant visible results and to help clinics, spas and salons to increase both revenue and client retention, as well as attract new customers. Hero device Synergy combines multiple technologies including microcurrent and LED. 020 8731 5678 caci-international.co.uk
Crazy Angel Launched: 2010 HQ: Inchinnan, Scotland Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: 9% Spray Tan Solution Owned by Professional Beauty Solutions, Crazy Angel offers professional and home-use tanning products. The Instant Airbrush tan is a particular favourite with influencers thanks to the instant glow, which continues to develop over two to four hours. 0141 814 1410 crazy-angel.co.uk
Crystal Clear Launched: 1995 HQ: Liverpool Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Crystal Clear Skin Repair Founded by Sharon Hilditch MBE to offer a gentler form of skin resurfacing, Crystal Clear quickly became recognised as a market leader in microdermabrasion. Since then, the brand has expanded to offer a wide range of technologies including oxygen, IPL and nitrogen plasma, as well as skincare. 01517 097227 crystalclear.co.uk
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AWARD WINNING SKINCARE
Just 6 years after launch, our British brand partners with over 350 salons & spas The results speak for themselves...
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British Brands
56 Dermaco Launched: 2009 HQ: Gloucester, Gloucestershire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Dermaco PRO VX Manufacturing both both machines and skincare, Dermaco offers technologies including microdermabrasion, ultrasound, microcurrent, cryotherapy and LED. The company also offers a trade-in for old machines, helping its accounts stay up to date with the latest tech. 01666 503570 dermacoskincare.co.uk
Dermalux Launched: 2012 HQ: Warrington, Cheshire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Flex MD The Dermalux systems were designed to offer innovative and technically advanced LED phototherapy treatments. It’s hero Flex MD device is portable and delivers blue 415nm, red 633nm and near infrared 830nm via single wavelength LED’s to ensure precision and optimum optical power. 0845 689 1789 dermaluxled.com
The Edge Nail & Beauty Launched: 1999 HQ: Basingstoke Manufactured in the UK?: 80% in the UK Best-seller: Active Nail Tips The Edge is a multi-system professional nail care brand. It has more than 1,500 products, with wholesale stockists all over the UK. The products, which include polishes, tips, nail tools, brushes, nail wraps and glitters, are used in nail salons and by mobile nail technicians. 01256 840840 edgenails.co.uk
Eve Taylor London
Elemis Founded: 1990 HQ: London Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Recognised worldwide, Elemis has developed a field-to-face outlook for its products, having forged relationships with British growers for 30 years, to get quality natural oils, extracts and ingredients. The brand was founded by Sean Harrington, Noella Gabriel and Oriele Frank, all of whom are still directors. 020 7907 2724 elemis.com
Founded: 1983 HQ: Peterborough Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Soothing Aromatic Serum (No.1) Launched by aromatherapist Eve Taylor, the brand draws on more than five decades of formulating experience for products that are designed to be natural, affordable and effective. The majority of raw ingredients are sourced from UK-based companies, offering customers the benefit of parity pricing without the risk of sharp increases from exchange rate fluctuations. 01733 260161 eve-taylor.com
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British Brands
58 Flexi Skin London Founded: 2019 HQ: Notting Hill, London Manufactured in the UK?: Packaging yes, product no Best-seller: The Cleanser Promising to mimic the results seen from advanced facials, the brand was founded by Gilly Potter, owner of London Salon Angelica Retreat, who wanted her clients to be able to continue the benefits of in-salon facials at home. Tools include cleansing brush The Cleanser, along with a microneedling device and rose quartz roller. 07792 399195 flexiskinlondon.co.uk
Gaia Skincare Launched: 2016 HQ: Truro, Cornwall Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Face Serum Created by Diane Nettleton, who runs Gaia Spa at Boringdon Hall in Devon, Gaia Skincare is led by the brand philosophy “your wellness, naturally.” Blending plant actives and essential oils, each ingredient has been chosen for the beneficial properties it offers the mind and body. 0845 565 1167 gaiaskincare.co.uk
HD Brows Founded: 2008 HQ: Leeds Best-seller: Pro Pencil If you know any brow-lovers, chances are they’ll have tried HD Brows. The bespoke eye treatment took the world by storm when it launched, offering training that’s accessible to all, before diversifying into a broad product range so customers could maintain their brows at home. 0113 224 7908 hdbrows.com
Hive of Beauty
Heaven Skincare
Launched: 1993 HQ: Renfrew, Scotland Manufactured in the UK?: Yes, the majority Best-seller: Warm ‘Honey’ Wax Hive of Beauty caused a buzz in the industry with the launch of The Beehive, a wax heater accompanied by honey waxes. A full depilatory range followed, with the vegan Warm ‘Honey’ Wax remaining a firm favourite with therapists 17 years later. 0845 450 4802 hiveofbeauty.com
Launched: 1994 HQ: Shifnal, Shropshire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Age Defiance Cream With her eponymous range, Deborah Mitchell wanted to create skincare that was organic, natural and resultsdriven. The collection was developed to promote a healthy, radiant complexion and combat issues such as acne, open pores, rosacea and eczema. Other hero products include the black and silver Bee Venom Masks. 01952 461888 heavenskincare.com professionalbeauty.co.uk
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British Brands
60 INK London
Katherine Daniels
Launched: 2013 HQ: Rossendale, Lancashire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: iLac Gel Polish Professional nail care brand INK London is proudly cruelty free. The company sells direct to its accounts, resulting in lower prices and direct communication. In addition to iLac, its products include builder gels, lamps, brushes, dip systems, tools and tips. 01706 260069 inknails.com
Launched: 2013 HQ: Bedfordshire Manufactured in the UK?: Partly Best-seller: Total Skin Repair Concentrate Created by skincare experts Kirsti Shuba and Donna Tait, Katherine Daniels creates salon-strength products and treatments, designed to enhance the way skin works and enable therapists to treat the cause of clients’ skin concerns, as well as the visible symptoms. 01767 682288 katherinedaniels cosmetics.com
Lash Perfect Launched: 2006 HQ: Loughton, Essex Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Ultimate Pro Adhesive System Founded by director Beverly Piper, a beauty expert with more than 25 years’ experience, Lash Perfect has gained a reputation for innovative professional lash and brow training, treatments and products, as well as products for eye care. Its many treatments include lash extensions, microblading and brow lamination. 020 8500 9028 lashperfect.co.uk
Lynton Lasers
Lashus Launched: 2019 HQ: Leeds Manufactured in the UK?: No Best-seller: Lift & Fix Lotion Developed by Sweet Squared, which has long distributed US nail brand CND, Lashus was launched as a lash lift brand, before expanding to add extensions to its offer. The products have been developed with as much emphasis on lash health as on high-performance treatments and products. 0333 000 7000 sweetsquared.com
Launched: 1994 HQ: Holmes Chapel, Cheshire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Lynton Lumina Any salon that offers laser treatments will be familiar with Lynton Lasers. The British-manufactured brand prides itself on its award-winning postpurchase support and training network. Its bestselling Lumina device offers 24 treatments, including hair removal, multi-colour tattoo removal, anti-ageing skin treatments and skin resurfacing. 01477 536977 lynton.co.uk
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British Brands
62 Medik8
Mii
Launched: 2009 HQ: Elstree, Hertfordshire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Hydr8 B5 Advanced skincare brand Medik8 has been built on the principle of CSA: vitamin C plus sunscreen by day, then vitamin A by night. Working to a philosophy of “nature-biased chemistry”, Medik8 develops every product from scratch. 03330 142434 medik8.com
Launched: 2011 HQ: Borehamwood, Hertfordshire Manufactured in the UK?: No Best-seller: Smoothing Face Prep After successfully introducing Jessica natural nail care to the professional UK market in the ’90s, British beauty entrepreneur Susan Gerrard further pursued her passion for beauty and spa by creating her own cosmetics brand, Mii. The brand now includes lines for make-up, brows and tanning. 0345 217 1360 gerrardinternational.com
Nail Gaga Launched: 2011 HQ: Bedworth, Warwickshire Manufactured in the UK?: No Best-seller: Precision Acrylic Powder in Cover Pink Nail Gaga is a family-run business with products created by nail techs, for nail techs, tried and tested daily in the salon environment. The range covers all systems, with the goal to provide a personal shopping experience with an underpinning knowledge for aftercare and advice. 02476 010202 nailgaga.co.uk
Opatra
Nouveau Lashes Ltd Launched: 2005 HQ: Pontefract, West Yorkshire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes, mostly Best-seller: LVL Lash Lift Nouveau Lashes has been transforming lashes since its mid-noughties launch, helping clients make the most of their eyes and lash artists build their careers. The treatments elevate natural lashes or extend them, while the retail products provide daily care for lashes and the delicate eye area. 01977 655098 nouveaulashes.com
Launched: 2014 HQ: North Finchley, London Manufactured in the UK?: Partly Best-seller: Aqua Spectra Opatra was founded with the aim of turning scientific breakthroughs and technological innovations into potent skincare solutions. It creates devices to help skin look firmer and brighter and offers a lifetime warranty on its machines. As well as salon equipment, the brand manufactures several handheld devices. 020 7998 5708 opatra.pro
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Outback Organics
Plasma Elite
Launched: 2010 HQ: Wellington, Somerset Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Bush Balm Based in the Somerset countryside, Outback Organics offers a range of botanical skincare and waxing solutions with a distinctive Aussie twist. Many of the botanical products contain either organic tea tree oil or lemon myrtle oil – two of nature’s strongest known antiseptics, making them fabulous natural remedies. 01823 663322 outbackorganics.co.uk
Launched: 2017 HQ: Croydon Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Plasma Elite II Pen Plasma Elite says it plasma pen is the only one totally created by a British company. Its surgical plasma device has FDA approval. The company is run by three industry experts, each with 40 years’ experience – Fran Hayter, Dawn Forshaw and Bridgette Softley. 07378 956138 plasmaelite.com
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Premier Software Launched: 1994 HQ: Cannock, Staffordshire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Salon by Premier Software Premier Software has spent 25 years developing software specifically for the hair and beauty industry. Premier listens to clients’ requests and prides itself on responding to industry trends in order to keep its software up to date for both independent salons and larger multi-group clients. 01453 466580 premiersalon.co.uk
REM Founded: 1920 HQ: Lancashire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Dream Pedicure Chair REM’s furniture is designed to bring style to salons. Available in leather fabrics and laminates, the company creates bespoke furniture on request to help reflect the style and personality of a salon. As well as chairs, trolleys and electricals, the offer includes nail bars, receptions desks and pedi-spa units. 01282 619977 rem.co.uk
Pure Nails Launched: 2010 HQ: Gillingham, Kent Manufactured in the UK?: No Best-seller: Halo Gel Polish Pure Nails was launched to offer affordable, on-trend nail products, geared to the needs of UK techs. The brand has a range of colour and builder gels, electricals and tools, and is influenced by customer demands when it comes to new colours and products. 01634 671122 purenails.co
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64 British Brands
SBC Launched: 1990 HQ: Needham Market, Suffolk Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Collagen 3-in-1 Cleanser SBC Skincare is inspired by nature, designed by therapists, developed by in-house chemists and enhanced by consumer feedback. The brand offers collections of bespoke and results-driven skincare and treatments, using globally sourced sustainable ingredients. It offers treatment skincare kits for facials, electrical treatments, manicures, pedicures and waxing. 01449 727070 sbcskincare.co.uk
Scentered Launched: 2014 HQ: Dorset Manufactured in the UK?: Yes (mostly) Best-seller: Mindful Mini Tin Co-founded by entrepreneur Lara Morgan, Scentered was created to meet the demands of eco-conscious consumers looking for portable aromatherapy and essential oil solutions to help them practice mindfulness on the move. The range contains 100% natural aromatherapy balms, candles and body care products in six blends: Sleep Well, De-Stress, Focus, Be Happy, Escape and Love. 0345 217 1360 gerrardinternational.com
Sienna X Launched: 2004 HQ: Worcester, Worcestershire Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Spray Tanning Solution Range 2019 saw Sienna X add another string to its bow, introducing a skincare line to its product offering. Best known for tanning solutions, the brand is a favourite among celebrities, and prides itself on developing high-performance vegan-friendly formulas. 0333 600 1200 sienna-x.co.uk
Spa Find & Sea Magik Launched: Spa Find in 1981, Sea Magik in 2018 HQ: Kent Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Spa Find Heavenly Hydration Mineralising Body Lotion This family-run spa business offers experiential treatments and products based on the healing properties of mud, salt and seaweed. Its Spa Find skincare products blend natural de-ionised water with Dead Sea minerals and organic plant extracts, while Sea Magik includes mineral salts, organic seaweeds and essential oil blends. 01580 211055 seamagik.com/spa-partners
Tantruth Launched: 2001 HQ: Inchinnan, Scotland Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: The Professional 9% Containing innovations in tanning technology, Tantruth provides more than just a bronzed, healthy glow. With moisturising and regenerative ingredients such as avocado, vitamin E and shea butter, the benefits of skincare are present in its tanning formulas. It offers spray tan solutions and professional equipment as well as home-use products. 0330 123 1907 tantruth.co.uk
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65 British Brands
Temple Spa Launched: 2000 HQ: Littlehampton, West Sussex Manufactured in the UK?: 95% UK, 5% in Switzerland and Italy Best-seller: Repose Aromatherapy Resting Cream Temple Spa is a British brand with a focus on skincare, treatments and experiences with wellbeing at the heart. The brand combines botanicals with derma-science actives to create results-driven products. It has a huge number of SKUs with lines for face, bath, make-up, aromatherapy and more. 01903 719429 templespa.com
The Gel Bottle Inc
Vitage
Launched: 2015 HQ: Brighton Manufactured in the UK?: No Best-seller: Extreme Shine Top Coat The Gel Bottle Inc is a femalefounded and run company. Its vegan gel polishes are highly pigmented, and while they weren’t initially intended for mass distribution, customer demand has seen popularity skyrocket in the past five years. Last year, the company launched spin-off consumer brand Peacci. 0333 772 0965 thegelbottleinc.com
Launched: 1998 HQ: Basildon, Essex Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Revitalising Daily Cleanse The Vitage range is a pioneer in the antioxidant skincare market, created and endorsed by skincare experts. The range continues to evolve to meet the ever-changing needs of customers and the professional market, championing the latest skin-innovations. 03333 201918 vitage.co.uk
Wax:one
Waxu
Launched: 2018 HQ: Leeds Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Hot Wax Wax:one is a UK-based and manufactured brand, developed by Sweet Squared in partnership with waxing professionals. Collectively the team has beauty industry experience spanning decades. Client comfort and simplicity is at the heart of Wax:one, with just one Hot Wax and one Strip Wax that are suitable for all skin types. 0333 000 7000 sweetsquared.com
Founded: 2015 HQ: Nottingham Manufactured in the UK?: Yes Best-seller: Express Hot Wax Beads Waxu was created by waxing specialist Gemma Cafferkey with the aim of revolutionising the way clients think about hair removal, devising products that create a longlasting and comfortable waxing experience, in the hope that clients will look forward to their hair removal appointment rather than dreading it. 07470 987420 waxu.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Hot Topic
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WATCH OUT for
“well-washing”
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Is everything in the spa industry being given a wellness spin to make it trendy and marketable? Consultant Valerie Delforge explores the issue of “well-washing”
aving worked in the spa industry for almost 30 years, you could say that I’ve seen a few buzzwords in my time, with some proving to be longer-lasting than others. Nowadays, it’s all about “wellness” and making the word work with our spa offerings, and why not? With recession and competition on the rise, plus recruitment issues and increased product prices affecting business, adapting to trends is the key to any spa’s success. However, the word “wellness” is now being used for everything and by every sector, and it sends shivers down my spine. My issue is that the word is misused constantly, even by those working in the spa industry, and this has led to “well-washing” – where everything is given a wellness spin to make it trendy and marketable. Wellness is a 360-degree lifestyle that should be accessible to everyone. In a spa, wellness should start with your customers and end with your staff, and the only way to make it happen successfully is to create a budget for the concept that includes everyone. Only then can you promote wellness in an ethical way. Three of the biggest well-washing issues in the spa industry right now are:
most. The lack of support and free leisurely hours they get are a far cry from the wellness element they are shouting about, with many delivering an 80-hour week. Stress is the real buzzword in our industry. 2. Many wellness programmes fail to deliver I’ve seen a lot of spas give up with their wellness ethos at the first hurdle. One told me, “we tried yoga for our staff but no one cared, so we stopped”. When I probed, I realised that it was a one-off 30-minute session at the start of a new year that was never followed up. However, on the company’s Instagram, they had posted a photo promoting how great the working culture is for their staff. It made my blood boil.
My issue is that the word is misused constantly, even by those working in the spa industry, and this has led to ‘well-washing’
1. We’re not practising what we preach I meet so many spa owners on the verge of a nervous breakdown. They’re in survival mode and believe that adding “wellness” to their offer will bring in more clients because it makes it more marketable. Funnily enough, I’ve found that in some spas where wellness is promoted with every offer it’s the spa managers who are suffering from stress and anxiety the
3. Ideas are not followed through I’ve met with spas that have created a wellness programme without the end game in mind. The message was mismatched and not in line with their target market. It’s the same principle as buying a machine that you believe is going to bring you an amazing return on investment, only to realise that your customers don’t want it as it doesn’t belong to your concept. So, it just sits there gathering dust while you wait for the next best thing to come along. Is this wellness? The answer is, sadly, no. PB
Valerie Delforge is a spa and salon business consultant, delivering bespoke programmes for businesses. Previously she held management roles including head of UK spa operations for Steiner.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Laser & IPL
69
Finger
pulse
ON THE
If you’ve ever been confused by CO2 or perplexed by pulsed-dye, fear not. Kathryn Conway sheds some light on IPL and the myriad types of laser, and which is right for your business
E
ver since the development of the first ruby, Nd:YAG and CO2 lasers in the 1960s, the therapeutic applications of laser and IPL technology have expanded exponentially. In a rapidly developing market where indications for laser and IPL are continually being tweaked as new techniques and mixed modalities are brought to the fore, the subject can feel wholly confusing for anyone who simply wants to buy the best device for their business. But, says Jon Exley, managing director of Lynton Lasers, an informed purchasing decision is impossible without “a sound knowledge of anatomy, basic understanding of laser physics, and clarity on the needs and demands of your client base”. So, let’s pause for a moment and consider the fundamentals of laser and IPL. >
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3D-lipo
Laser & IPL
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Core knowledge
Lynton Lasers
Laser light is monochromatic, meaning that the light a laser emits is composed of a single wavelength. The wavelength generated is determined by the medium through which the light passes – either gas (as seen in CO2 lasers), a crystal (as with the solid state laser such as alexandrite, erbium, KTP, Nd:YAG and ruby), dye (as seen in pulsed-dye lasers) or a semiconductor (as with diode). It is the chromophores – the target molecules in the skin, namely melanin, haemoglobin and water – that determine the absorption of the wavelength, with each chromophore absorbing different wavelengths according to its “absorption coefficient”. Put simply, by using a laser’s wavelength, energy and pulse duration, a chromophore may be selectively targeted to achieve various treatment outcomes. So, if you want to achieve hair removal, for example, you select lasers with wavelengths that target melanin; if you want to heat and destroy blood vessels, you opt for lasers with wavelengths that target haemoglobin. When it comes to IPL (intense pulsed light) systems, these high-intensity flash lamps are polychromatic, discharging a broad range of wavelengths simultaneously. This broad-spectrum pulsed light is passed through cut-on filters in the handpiece of a device to change the range of the wavelengths and enable the targeting of the relevant chromophore. Because of the
broad spectrum of light delivered, IPL opens up the potential for multiple treatments from one device. But, cautions Eddie Campbell-Adams, UK country manager at Lumenis,“what you can do with an IPL depends on a number of factors, be that power, the filtering, the way the pulse is delivered and flexibility to adjust that to get the best effect.” So, bearing in mind that not all IPL devices are created equal, what indications can IPL treat effectively?
IPL Intense pulsed light has found a real niche as a tool for photorejuvenation of late, with Jade Shelden, clinical trainer UK and Ireland for Venus Concept, noting that this is “because of its epidermal absorption. It is extremely effective at removing facial pigmentation lesions as well as vascular lesions.” Campbell-Adams agrees, adding,“The reason we have nine different filters on our M22 systems is because we want to get to different depths with different filters. So, if we’re targeting something superficial, like a vascular lesion, we’ll use a lower number filter such as a 515 nanometre (nm). But, because we know that superficial lesion might be being fed by a deeper vessel, we’ll also want to start moving up to the 560nm, 590nm and 640nm filters to get deeper. This way, we achieve a better overall effect and long-term results, because if you only treat the superficial lesion and it is being fed by a deeper vessel it will repopulate and return.” Debbie Thomas, who runs an eponymous skincare practice in London, uses the vascular filter on the Lumenis M22 device and says,“What has been proven over the past few years is that you get a much better reduction in vascular activity if there’s a double pulse. The first pulse that hits the vein almost provides a slight
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Advanced Esthetics Solutions
Laser & IPL
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Vascular lasers
Cutera Excel HR
shock and creates a chemical reaction in the blood that has just been heated, then the second pulse cauterises it much more effectively… This really allows us to treat very small veins and any flushing of the face.” The Lumina Platform system from Lynton is also effective in treating superficial red veins and pigment, as Exley explains,“The Lumina incorporates reflective coatings within the handpiece to generate extremely short pulses. It’s the combination of the short pulse, high energy and correct wavelength range that results in excellent treatment outcomes”. But, as Exley explains, the Lumina platform system also incorporates laser technology as there are limitations for IPL alone. IPL’s application as a tool for hair removal has been superseded somewhat by solid-state and semi-conductor lasers thanks to their speed, comfort and ability to treat a broader range of skin types. Plus,“you can only do millisecond pulses with an IPL, not shorter, making it wholly unsuitable for tattoo removal, for instance,” notes Exley.
By taking aim at haemoglobin, lasers are also effective at heating and destroying blood vessels, with pulseddye lasers and KTP the key workhorses here. (As an interesting aside, if you’ve ever heard mention of frequency doubling and wondered what it was, here’s a quick lesson from Jon Exley: “With a
KTP laser you’ve actually got a normal Nd:YAG at 1,064nm that is fired through another crystal called potassium titanyl phosphate (KTP) and this halves the wavelength to 532nm. In physics, we call it frequency doubling; you are doubling the frequency of the light, but when you double the frequency you halve the wavelength”). KTP lasers can produce efficacious results in superficial telangiectasias and cherry angiomas, particularly in non-tanned Fitzpatrick skin types I-III, but, says Campbell-Adams,“the shorter wavelengths are more aggressive on the surface of the skin.” Pulsed-dye, meanwhile, with its slightly longer wavelength (anywhere between 585nm and 595nm), was once considered the goldstandard for vascular lesions. However, its use was plagued by the development of unsightly purpura (bruising) following treatment, a complication that has largely been overcome with the use of longer pulses. Today, pulsed-dye is used to treat and lighten the colour of port wine stains, spider naevi and some haemangiomas, and has been used to reduce the red flushing of rosacea, but post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation is a possible complication.“The cost of the dye kits, which can be expensive and have a shelf-life, should also be taken into consideration,” concludes Campbell-Adams.
Pigment-targeting lasers Q-switched and picosecond lasers are typically the first that spring to mind when targeting pigment. A Q-switch essentially “allows for the production of six >
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CONTRAINDICATIONS “Lasers absorb light into the skin, which then converts into heat, which has the potential to create burns, blisters, swelling, excessive erythema, and hyper and hypopigmentation,” warns Shelden. “Manufacturers’ protocols and guidelines must be followed to avoid risks and complications. Contraindications will vary but the most common are diseases stimulated by light such as epilepsy and lupus, photosensitive medications, autoimmune conditions, diseases stimulated by heat, and metal within the treatment area. Pregnancy, pacemakers and sun-tanned skin should also be taken into consideration.” Further guidance on photosensitising drugs and laser standards can be downloaded from the British Medical Lasers Association’s website bmla.co.uk
Interestingly, melasma is another possible indication for Q-switched lasers, with Thomas having found success treating the condition by using the M22’s Q-switched laser in combination with specific peels designed to suppress pigmentation production.“Melasma is triggered by VEGF, which is the vascular endothelial growth factors, and more of these growth factors are produced when the skin is inflamed. So, if you use a laser that is very hot and is very stimulating, you’re actually going to be triggering more VEGF, which in turn triggers the production of melanocytes,” she says.“A very low-dose Q-switch won’t put a lot of heat in the skin, so you can chip away at the pigment without creating a lot of bulk heating.” Of course, we shouldn’t forget that melanin is also a pigment and it is the melanin pigment in the hair shaft that is the target in all lasers used for hair removal, one of the most requested laser treatments for beauty salons up and down the country. Ruby, Alexandrite, diode and Nd:YAG can all be used for hair removal; however, it is the mixing of Alexandrite and Nd:YAG that appears to be marching ahead when it comes to delivering an efficacious treatment on a broad range of skin types. “Alexandrite 755nm is highly absorbed by the chromophore melanin, which makes it the gold standard for hair removal. However, Alexandrite is only safe to use on untanned skin types I-III, making it unsuitable for darker Fitzpatricks,” says Sarah McNulty, national educator at Advanced Esthetics Solutions (AES).“Nd:YAG 1,064nm is the most versatile laser wavelength due to the fact it can safely treat hair removal on all skin types (I-VI). It has the capability to reach deeper layers of tissue than other types of laser, and because Nd:YAG is attracted to AES Duetto Evo
to 10 nanosecond pulses with extremely high peak power,” says Joanne Leahy, head of training at 3D-lipo. And because any solid-state laser can have a Q-switch inside, technicians have a broad range of wavelengths at their disposal. This makes them particularly effective at targeting individual brown spots (such as sun, age and café au lait spots) across a range of skin types. The advent of picosecond lasers, meanwhile, which fire 1,000 times faster than the Q-switched nanosecond pulse, has seen a new dawn for tattoo removal.“The picosecond laser delivers energy so fast that it creates acoustic waves that shatter the ink particles into tiny pieces, which are then removed by the body’s lymphatic draining system,” says Shelden.
3D-lipo
Advanced Esthetics Solutions
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Lynton
3D-lipo Vjuve
Laser & IPL
73
Laser skin resurfacing C02 and erbium lasers, which target water to generate heat, can be both ablative (only recommended for use by prescribers) and non-ablative (wavelengths below 2,000nm), and both can be fractionated.“Fractional just means splitting the beam into tiny pinpoints,” says Exley, and because only fractions of tissue are ablated with areas in between left untouched, downtime is greatly reduced. “Fractional non-ablative erbium glass lasers such as the ResurFX at 1,565nm are a great tool for rejuvenation without the downtime of an ablative laser as they
coagulate tiny columns of tissue, speeding up the turnover of the epidermis. This is also effective for scars, stretchmarks and epidermal pigmentation,” notes Campbell-Adams. Speaking in relation to 3D-lipo’s fractional CO2 laser, found on the 3D Vjuve machine, Leahy says,“this technology works by making small holes of ablation, creating thin, spaced columns of thermal damage that penetrate deep into the dermal tissue.” She adds,“The columns stimulate the production of healthy skin, helping to speed up the healing process and deliver improvements in the appearance of the skin.” Fractional lasers are obviously great for collagen remodelling, skin tightening and encouraging cellular turnover of the epidermis, but uses of C02 and erbium go far beyond what can be covered here, which is why training is key. A Level 4 Core of Knowledge laser course is a good place to start to get up to speed on the relevant standards and regulations and the safe use of lasers and IPL, and you should take all the training and support offered to you by the manufacturers of the devices you purchase. However, be sure to look beyond the marketing material to ensure the specifications of a device are going to meet the needs of your business and clients. Finally, reminds Debbie Thomas,“No amount of training is going to give you that hands-on, day-to-day experience working on people’s skin. You need to draw on a well of knowledge to ensure you are making the best treatment decisions for the client.” PB Lynton 3Juve
haemoglobin it works on the papilla, the section of the bulb responsible for growth.” AES has combined these two wavelengths in its Duetto MT Evo device, delivering both wavelengths simultaneously to target both chromophores at the same time.“This improves the treatment outcome and increases treatment safety and flexibility in each skin and hair type,” adds McNulty. Meanwhile, Cutera’s Excel HR combines the two gold-standard wavelengths for laser hair removal - 755nm Alexandrite and 1064 nm Nd:YAG for quick, safe, effective treatments on all skin types. Driving further growth in lasers for hair removal has been the advent of so called “pain free” treatments. Initially launched with diode lasers, this technology has been enhanced in lasers such as Deka Motus AY from Lynton, which delivers Alexandrite and Nd:YAG without pain.
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Launch Analysis
74
RECIPE for success The DoubleTree by Hilton Harrogate Majestic Hotel has opened a destination spa with a membership model to increase the business’s luxury offering. Amanda Pauley finds out if The Harrogate Spa lives up to the hype
D
uring the past year more high-end destinations spas have opened in the UK than ever before, promising to deliver a bespoke stay for those who need to escape the pressures of modern-day living. Although this growth is great news for the spa industry as it increases the sector’s economic value, it does mean extra market competition for operators, making it harder for new businesses to stand out. A strong spa USP has never been more crucial. However, there’s a new kid on the block breaking the mould and making its mark – The Harrogate Spa, which soft opened at the DoubleTree by Hilton Harrogate Majestic Hotel in November 2019. The business is a shining example of how spa and hotel can work together to create a wellness experience for customers that benefits both departments. The 12,838sq ft spa is situated in the heart of the historic spa town Harrogate, offering traditional and advanced treatments as well as an extensive thermal suite, with an indoor pool, Himalayan salt sauna, steam room, rasul, ice fountain and experience shower. “We’re the only building in the centre of town that can facilitate this amount of space for a spa, which is one of our USPs,” says spa director Lynn Roach (pictured above). “Harrogate has such a rich spa history – [bathing in the town’s
mineral waters was part of a daily routine prescribed by doctors in the 19th century] – so we wanted to bring wellness back to the area in an authentic way.” Although Roach thought about incorporating the town’s unique waters into the spa, the concept was a better idea on paper than in reality. “We looked at using Harrogate’s healing waters but it’s very high in sulphur and the smell isn’t compatible with the aromas we wanted,” she explains.
Call of nature The spa has instead focused on offering an environment that brings the outside in, helping clients to reconnect with nature, which is a big trend right now. In the main area, large glass windows let clients enjoy the town’s beautiful architecture and green landscapes, while the treatment rooms feature rich green and brown colour schemes, and rituals formulated with botanical and algae ingredients. “People are so busy that they struggle to unwind, which is why we wanted to focus on the earth’s elements because nature grounds you,” says Roach. The spa has chosen aromatherapy brand Espa as its main product house and marine-based range Thalgo
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Launch Analysis
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as its more niche offering, because “it is still focused on the For example, Roach is working with the events team spa professional,” says Roach. “Unfortunately, some to create half- and full-day spa packages that utilise brands have lost their exclusivity because they’ve gone the hotel’s restaurant and bar facilities too, making it a heavily down the retail route.” “joint experience”. But the biggest nature feature at the spa will be the zen Although hotel guests can enjoy the spa facilities for a garden, which is opening in the first quarter of 2020, along small fee of £15–£25, a big chunk of revenue will come with the glass elevator at the spa entrance. The garden from exclusive memberships. “Before we opened the spa, will be filled with plants, day beds the hotel had a membership and water features, and there model where clients could use will also be a terrace area with the gym, so we had to keep that. Opened: November 2019 an array of seating so clients can This base is our bread and butter Size: 12,838sq ft dine outside. because it takes care of our Rooms: Six (including two doubles) Although the hotel originally set facility charges,” explains Roach. Staff: 16 aside a budget of £500,000 for the The new membership model Brands: Carita, Espa, Jessica, spa build, which started in February costs £85 per month for off-peak Technogym, Thalgo 2019, Roach says the final spend is use and £105 per month for now closer to £2 million. “The unrestricted use of the gym owners are good business people and spa facilities, as well as and they really listened to me when I told them what I giving members 15% off treatments. When PB went to thought the space should be – i.e. the feel, layout and print the business had 70 members and was planning ethos,” says Roach. to cap it at 400.
Collective approach “I put together a business plan which said, ‘if we had X amount of treatment rooms and a membership model with a structure like Y, then we would be able to make this much return on investment’. They listened to my ideas, believed in me and gave me the financial support to get the job done, which is amazing.” The model intricately blends the spa and hotel operations, thinking of “the business as a whole, which I think is missed in the industry sometimes,” she explains.
“We’re very conscious of not overcrowding the spa which is why we’ve limited the membership model and decided to charge hotel guests to use the facilities,” explains Roach. “Once we’ve reached this target then we will strategically open the door to day spa guests to further increase revenue, while always monitoring the footfall.” As for future plans at the DoubleTree by Hilton Majestic Hotel & Spa, Roach intends to enter the spa into industry awards and add four more treatment rooms. “I want to make it the spa to visit when in Harrogate,” she adds. PB
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FIND YOUR PERFECT MATCH Connect with distributors and brand owners worldwide using our new online matchmaking service Sign up and start searching now at: www.professionalbeauty.group EVENTS IN: INDIA | IRELAND | SOUTH AFRICA | THAILAND | UAE | UK
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Community Initiatives
77
ALL
together
now
As society becomes more focused on issues surrounding mental health and loneliness, Kieran Read explores how salons and spas are giving back to their local communities
I
n many ways, the beauty industry is all about giving back. From simple treatments to aesthetic procedures, spa retreats to home routines, the goal is always to improve clients’ physical and mental wellbeing. In other ways, and perhaps inadvertently, the same industry can find itself in controversy, accused of contributing negatively to self-perception or climate change, among other issues. Beauty businesses across the country are slowly realising that more has to be done to make greater, lasting change when faced with these increasingly complex, modern-day problems. Whether it’s recognising burnout as a diagnosable mental health issue or banning single-use plastics, training in melanoma detection methods or backing charity initiatives, a conscious effort is being made in salons and spas across the country to protect and support others, the natural world and ourselves. Often, global aspirations have to start in local communities; we speak to three beauty businesses making a change for the better. >
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Community Initiatives
78 ADDRESSING MENTAL HEALTH One of the most important improvements to wellbeing in the past few years has been encouraging an open dialogue about mental health issues. According to the NHS, 25% of people over the age of 18, and one in 10 children, experience mental illness during their lifetime. It is becoming clearer that, although many people seem okay, they may in fact be struggling. “I’m so pleased that we’re looking more into mental health,” says Emma Ginever (pictured above), manager of Birmingham’s The Essentials Beauty salon.“My dad suffered quite badly. When you see someone going through depression, you see how much it can change a person.” Passionate about making a change, Ginever recently ran a mental health awareness coffee morning at the salon. Clients were encouraged to drop in for “a cuppa, cake and a natter to get away from the stresses of daily life”, with a representative from charity Mind on-hand to offer further support. “Clients often open up to you more than they would a professional, or their family and friends. Now that we’ve got more space after relocating the salon, I saw it as an opportunity to open up to the community and give back somehow.” Although for many the salon is a place of relaxation, Ginever is also
aware that some people feel under pressure to look a certain way, and is keen to tackle the issue head-on. According to The Priory Group, Body Dysmorphic Disorder (BDD) is estimated to affect one in 50 people, with many sources attributing the pressures of social media to a recent rise in the condition. “It’s a huge problem right now. You see Instagram pictures of these gorgeous men and women, and people feel they have to look like them to fit in,” says Ginever.“It should be all about how you feel. We have to break it down and ask, ‘is this actually going to make me feel better?’”
Clients often open up to you more than they would a professional or their family and friends
Closer to home When helping the community, Ginever makes sure not to forget those literally closest to her, opening the coffee morning to practising therapists too. A continual focus on appearance, intensive work and the mental strain of being an emotional support for clients all challenge therapists on a daily basis and can’t be overlooked. “The work-life balance can be very hard, especially with how competitive the industry is, so you’ve just got to make sure [therapists] look out for themselves and each other.” With the first coffee morning having been a great success, Ginever plans to expand this support further, appointing a wellbeing officer at the salon. “We’re definitely going to do another coffee morning too, and possibly turn it into a workshop. We got lots of great feedback, and people who were maybe too nervous to come have asked how it went.” As for smaller things salons can be doing for their clients and therapists, Ginever says it’s always worth reaching out.“It’s a blurred line between being a friend and a professional. You start to wonder whether you have a moral obligation to help people, but you’ve just got to start the conversation.” >
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WELLNESS NEXT LEVEL
TAKING TO THE
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Untitled-87 1
28/11/2019 17:08
Community Initiatives
80 council tax and service fees. It sounds crazy but a £1 bottle of shampoo could be a lifeline to someone.” By visiting refuges, the co-founders came to understand the devastating reality for these women.“They enter the refuges broken and scared for their life. It’s absolutely heartbreaking; we’d leave places crying and consoling each other, but it spurred us on to do something about it,” says Page-Collin.
Offering treatments
SUPPORTING SURVIVORS Having worked as a therapist for 23 years, Lynette Page-Collin (pictured above, left), co-founder of domestic abuse foundation Elle for Elle, decided to turn her passion for helping people into a way of life. According to the Office for National Statistics, 7.9% of women experienced a form for domestic abuse in England and Wales in 2018. With mental health at the forefront of the public conversation, it becomes important not to overlook more severe cases also. “We spoke to a local police officer working on a study with a high number of women shoplifting,” says Page-Collin, speaking of her initial research.“It turns out the main products they were taking were concealer to cover bruising and scars, and sanitary towels.” Inspired by co-founder Rachel O’Hare’s (above right) background in counselling, Elle for Elle began life as a Facebook post asking friends to donate unused products to a local women’s refuge for Christmas.“We wanted people who didn’t even think about their beauty to enjoy these products,” says Page-Collin.“You’ve got to think about it like a parent; you want to spend whatever you have on your children, and the rest goes on food,
From humble beginnings, Elle for Elle has continually evolved, launching the “Dignity after Distress” campaign to reach more shelters with its donations. On top of distributing to around 70 refuges, the foundation now visits with a full team, offering waxing, reiki, massages, reflexology, nail treatments, make-up, haircuts and blow-dries, as a way to help promote self-confidence as well as caring for, and listening to, the women they treat. “It’s a way for women to open up, to feel comfortable and to trust another human being. A service manager told us that, for a lot of them, it’s the first time they’ve been touched in a nice way. That really hit home,” says Page-Collin. From there, Elle for Elle launched “Be.You.Ty”, offering one- to three-day diplomas in nails, waxing or massage to those in the refuges. One woman has already established her own beauty business from the campaign. What the industry can provide has proven extremely valuable, from much-needed self-belief to genuine career prospects. From a meeting with deputy director of the Government’s debt management Steve Coppard, to an appearance on BBC News, Elle for Elle is a success story about how working with the local community can have wide-reaching impacts. “We haven’t even touched London yet and we really want to. We want it to be a national thing,” says Page-Collin on their future plans. Industry professionals interested in getting involved with events and donation opportunities can find more information at elleforelle.org.uk >
It’s a way for women to open up, to feel comfortable and to trust another human being
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ENVIRONMENT OF CHANGE Environmental issues often lead us to think of the planet as a whole, meaning it’s easy to overlook what is directly around us. For Caroline Cornish (pictured right), spa manager of The Scarlet Hotel and Spa in Cornwall, a desire to preserve nature goes hand-in-hand with a love for the local surroundings, and also offers a way of bringing the community together. “I moved here to be close to nature, so finding out there was a hotel pushing environmental boundaries was really exciting,” says Cornish.“We’re so lucky to be right on the beach. We have beautiful coastlines and it reminds me every day how important it is to protect them.” The Scarlet is one of many spas devoted to preserving natural balance, but what it does a little differently is keep things as close to home as possible. From locally sourced products made by Tri Dosha and the Cornish Seaweed Bath Company using sea salt, indigenous herbs and Cornish clay, to nature-centric paintings and furniture from the thriving local art scene, the fingerprints of the community can be found all over the spa. “We’ve got awesome artists and brands in our area so it’s nice to support our neighbours, almost like we’re in it together. It wouldn’t be right to have something that wasn’t part of nature; everywhere is designed to connect you a little bit more,” says Cornish. Even when constructing the hotel and spa, The Scarlet paid close attention to what the concept of “community” means, locally rehoming nearly 120 slow worms, lizards and small adders, and giving old insulation to a local monkey sanctuary.
for “stargazing” and “storm watching”, offering a perfect way of capturing it. By integrating local nature so heavily into the spa, Cornish treats natural and self-preservation like rescuing two birds with one stone. “It’s proven that time in nature can support your mental as well as your physical health. There are people who come here who are surprised that it is environmentally friendly and I think that’s awesome. To change people’s perceptions of luxury so they know it can be environmentally friendly is so exciting,” she says. Cornish’s ultimate goal of a “hotel full of happy people”, including a team that she is the “biggest fan of”, extends past the establishment. Whether it’s offering those travelling by public transport from afar discounted rates, holding quarterly coffee mornings for elderly citizens in the area, donating frayed towels to a local dog rescue centre or having all employees complete a minimum of half an hour of community service annually, The Scarlet is open to, and caring of, everyone. “I think the way it encourages you to look after others, to respect humanity a bit more, is really powerful,” says Cornish. As all three businesses have shown, to give back to the local community not only has reverberations past what you might first expect, but also goes a long way to helping yourself. PB
It’s proven that time in nature can support your mental as well as your physical health
Back to nature The majesty of Cornwall’s scenery is on full display at The Scarlet, with the reed-filtered cliff-top pools designed
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AWARDS THE DIXIE QUEEN YACHT, LONDON 29 MARCH 2020
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11/12/2019 14:20
Hot Topic
83
Should clients be
DITCHING their
moisturiser?
The beauty industry has long lived by the mantra “cleanse, tone, moisturise”, but are face creams necessary for clients’ skin? Two leading facialists – Martine Jarman and Michaella Bolder – debate the issue
F
or many people, a results-driven moisturiser is a staple in their daily beauty routine and has been for many years. However, despite the mantra “cleanse, tone, moisturise” having been recommended by the beauty industry since the ’50s, some dermatologists and aesthetics experts are now advising that a face cream is no longer an essential part of a good skincare routine. These professionals are recommending customers invest their time and money in hydrating, hardworking serums instead. As one of the best-selling products in the market, it’s doubtful that moisturisers will be leaving beauty retail shelves anytime soon, especially as many people are happy with the results of their go-to cream and how their skin is accustomed to the formulation. But, why is this debate happening now and what are the professionals saying are the cons of using a moisturiser? Two successful facialists, who are both leading skin experts, offer their opposing views on the issue. >
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“Why I’m anti-moisturiser” “Clients are shocked when I tell them that in most cases they don’t need to use a moisturiser – the product is a waste of time and potentially damaging to their skin. Their hard-earned money could be spent on more effective, preventative and protective skincare products instead. “Moisturisers merely sit on the surface of the skin and interfere with its natural cycle of exfoliation, resulting in old, dead cells sticking to the surface. This makes the skin feel temporarily soft and smooth but it is a misconception, and can cause a cycle of addiction to moisturisers. “Moisturisers shut down cellular communication, causing dryness and premature ageing. Young skin doesn’t need a moisturiser because it is generally healthy, strong, firm and resistant, it’s only as they start to age that clients tend to adopt the ‘cleanse, tone and moisturise’ concept that the beauty industry promotes. “However, only a skin type that is exceptionally dry, or those that suffer with eczema and psoriasis, will
Martine Jarman, aesthetic therapist and owner of SkinGenius Clinic in Warrington
need an emollient moisturising cream to prevent trans-epidermal water loss. “Our skin naturally hydrates itself externally from the environment, by taking droplets of moisture from the air, and internally from our diet and the amount of water we drink.
Product overload “Another important factor in our skin’s hydration is the production of hyaluronic acid (HA), which is classed as a humectant and can retain up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. A family of proteins called aquaporins act as water channels within our cells and are responsible for drawing up HA from the dermis to hydrate the epidermal cells and the stratum corneum. “Fibroblast cells produce vital components such as elastin, collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGS) – all of which contribute to healthy, hydrated skin. Using a moisturiser overfeeds the surface of the skin with oils and lipids, which in turn leads to a breakdown in cellular communication, causing cells to become lazy. Fibroblasts become less active and then slow down the vital production of collagen, elastin and GAGS, all of which results in premature ageing. “As an alternative to moisturisers, I advise clients to use corrective and preventative serums, which contain high concentrations of active ingredients such as retinol, antioxidants, growth factors and anti-inflammatory agents. “These products stimulate the skin at a cellular level, helping to repair DNA and prevent premature ageing.”
Moisturisers shut down cellular communication, causing dryness and premature ageing. Young skin doesn’t need a moisturiser because it is generally healthy and strong
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“Why I’m pro moisturiser”
Michaella Bolder, celebrity facialist and skincare expert, working mainly in London and Margate
Hot Topic
85
“Healthy skin comes down to diet, lifestyle and maintaining a good skincare routine. An essential product I recommend clients use daily is an oil-free, lightweight moisturiser, which is great for myriad skin types, including acne, oily and combination. For those with dehydrated, mature or sensitive skin, I recommend a much richer cream specific to their needs. “My side of this debate is that there are moisturisers out there for all skin types which do not cause adverse reactions or compromise the skin’s pH. “A moisturiser works on the skin’s water levels, helping to attract moisture and increase lost water from the transepidermal layers, helping to prevent flaking cells and improving skin’s overall appearance.
Support network “The job of a moisturiser is to provide a little bit of water each day, which penetrates the cell membranes to plump up and rehydrate the outermost layers of dead skin cells that appear dry and dull. The other components of a moisturiser are there to lock in moisture and build strength in the protective barrier function of the skin. “Just because a moisturiser comes with a high price tag, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a better option for your client either – all commercial face creams pretty much work on the same principle of production. “The only difference is the brand may add additional ingredients such as preservatives, alcohol and essential oils, along with a particular pleasant fragrance, all of which are not needed and are only present for the customer’s senses.
“Choosing the correct moisturiser for your client’s skin type is essential, so following the latest skincare fad – for example, CBD oil – isn’t correct for everyone and can result in adverse reactions such as breakouts or sensitivity, making clients think they need to dump their face creams for the wrong reasons. It’s about educating clients about the different types of face creams out there and what will work for their skin type. “In a nutshell, moisturisers play an important part in skin cell hydration, whether clients choose to apply it every day or a few times a week. So, recommending a few options for their bathroom cabinet is always a good idea.” PB
Moisturisers play an important part in hydration… they work on the skin’s water levels, helping to attract moisture and increase lost water from the trans-epidermal layers
Disclaimer: the thoughts and opinions expressed belong solely to the authors and are not the view of Professional Beauty or Trades Exhibitions Limited
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AWARDS LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE 28 JUNE 2020
Compete and raise your industry profile ENTRIES OPEN UNTIL 24TH JANUARY Nail Salon of the Year Therapist of the Year Employer of the Year Spa/Salon Team of the Year Spa/Salon Leader of the Year Large Spa of the Year* Boutique Spa of the Year*
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11/12/2019 14:22
Nail Notes
87
HOW TO
respond to
social media
abuse
I
Aggressive DMs from clients on social media is a growing and worrying trend. Nail tech Michelle Brookes outlines what to do when you receive a confrontational message
recently read a news story about a nail tech who received abusive messages from a client after she was spotted doing her weekly shop at Tesco. The customer had messaged stating that, as a business owner, the nail tech should be using that time to offer her an appointment instead of running errands. This story got me thinking. Why should we have to explain ourselves to clients outside of work? Why are we expected to be immune to the needs of rest and time to do some life admin? It’s now all too easy for clients to send angry direct messages (DMs) to our social media accounts – both business and personal – and they can see exactly when you’re online, taking it personally when you don’t respond straight away.
Throwing shade I’ve experienced this situation many times. For example, I’ve had clients message my salon Facebook page on a Saturday night about booking an appointment and when they’ve not had an immediate response they’ve then bombarded me with several “????” messages to my personal account to grab my attention. I also know other techs who have received negative and hounding DMs from clients on Christmas Day. But this abuse can happen in person too. I’ve even had a customer stop me on the school run to say one of my therapists hadn’t replied to their Facebook DM over the weekend, but when I asked for more information, it turned out they were direct messaging her personal account when they should have been contacting the salon’s business page. On another occasion, one of my employees was in hospital, so we rang her client to swap her booking to another therapist. Despite this, the client then rang the
original therapist’s mobile number and messaged her online, demanding to know what was wrong with her and when she would be better to do her nails.
Social safety In the end, I had to put a social media policy in place in my business which clearly states to clients my stance on negative social media DMs – that they need to either email or ring the salon, or message our business page on Facebook or Instagram, if they have a query and wait to receive a reply within 24 hours. This stance has helped. These are my five top tips for dealing with abusive social media DMs from clients: 1. Keep calm – remember you’re not the one in the wrong 2. Ensure your reply is professional – messages can be screenshotted and shared 3. Be able to close a message and redirect – for example, “if you want to discuss this matter further please call the salon on...” 4. Ignore future messages if they continue 5. Don’t be afraid to use the block facility if necessary. Social media can be toxic at times and there are so many internet trolls who just want to cause arguments, so it’s vital you and your team know how to respond to these messages calmly and professionally. PB
Michelle Brookes is a nail tech and trainer. She runs the Beauty Lounge salon in Doncaster, which won Professional Beauty Nail Salon of the Year in 2017.
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89 Treatment News
Medik8 12 Weeks to Wow The cosmeceutical skincare brand has created a 2020 personal training programme for skin, based around eight salon appointments and six professional peels over 12 weeks. Clients begin their 12 Weeks to Wow journey with a pre-peel consultation where they receive products to prep the skin before the first peel. During the next six appointments, therapists can choose one of nine different peels to treat various skin concerns, including mono peels of lactic, glycolic or madelic acid, and Combination Lifestyle Peels such as Clarity for breakouts and Even for brightening. These can be built up in strength and layered for maximum results. The final appointment is the “Wow Reveal”, where clients can measure their results by comparing their skin to photos taken in their first consultation and skin goals drafted in their Medik8 Skin Passport. Medik8 recommends charging from £490 for the 12-week programme. Call the brand on 020 8712 6020
DEEP
impact
This month we explore some treatments for both face and body that get to work deep into the skin and tissue for lasting results
This month we tried… Thalgo Body Sculpt With Body Palp The lowdown: Marine brand Thalgo is well-known for its body-shaping treatments, but Body Palp offers something a little different. Using a form of cupping to reach the deep layers, it involves a hand-held device but no machines. Instead, the therapist uses a pumping action to create a vacuum inside a small glass cup, which is then used to massage any areas affected by cellulite. The experience: I tried the treatment at Beyond Medispa in Harvey Nichols, London, with therapist Minu Bhudia, who told me it would feel uncomfortable but that she would adjust it depending on my pain levels. To prep the skin, Bhudia began by applying Thalgo’s Slimming Preparation Peel to my
thighs and buttocks. She then applied Slimming Massage Concentrate before positioning the glass cup over the back of my thigh. She pumped the device about half a pump to get me used to the sensation before moving it around to create a lift and roll motion on the tissue. She explained that erythema was occurring quite quickly on the outer thighs, where there was most cellulite, and increased the suction, working over the backs of both legs before asking me to turn over and working on the fronts and inner thighs finishing them with an application of High Performance Firming Cream. The verdict: While the treatment wasn’t painful, it felt uncomfortable at times, but reassuringly so, as Bhudia advised that any cellulite treatment should feel about a seven out of 10 on the pain scale to be effective. I did have a few very light bruises afterwards and my outer thighs felt tender for a couple of days but they did look noticeably smoother in texture. Business benefits: With no real downtime, the treatment can bring clients back to the salon weekly. It allows therapists to perform a far deeper massage than would be achievable with hands alone, and with less strain on the hands and wrists. Tried by Eve Oxberry Thalgo recommends charging from £45 for the 40-minute treatment. Call the brand on 020 7512 0872 professionalbeauty.co.uk
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New Products
90 Elemis Elemis has added two products to its popular Superfood range. Cica Calm Cleansing Foam is a foaming cleanser that removes make-up and dirt using micellar technology and a mixture of fermented superfoods – biotransformed cica, green tea seed oil, rice water, agave and kefir. Cica Calm Hydration Juice is a prebiotic gel moisturiser that hydrates and balances thirsty skin. It’s infused with organic aloe juice, cucumber extract, and green mandarin and kiwi fruit waters, as well as biotransformed cica. RRP: £25 for 180ml Cleansing Foam; £40 for 50ml Hydration Juice 0117 316 1888 elemis.com
Cold
COMFORT
Help clients protect their skin during the winter months with products that work hard to lock in moisture
Light Elegance The latest products from Light Elegance infuse the easy application of the brand’s colour gel Buttercreams with highly-pigmented glitter. Butterblings are “thicker, bolder and brighter” and are available in four colours. Holo is a holographic glitter that transforms into a multi-coloured rainbow effect; Black Opal is a cool combination of fuchsia, turquoise and peacock green hues; and there are also metallic foileffect green Jade and rich blue Sapphire. Trade: £23.95 for individual shades 0333 000 700 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
Germaine de Capuccini Following the launch of Timexpert SRNS Night Progress Serum, Germaine de Capuccini has created Timexpert SRNS Repair Night Progress Mask, which contains the same ingredients as the serum but in a sheet mask format, and is made from bamboo cellulose and micronised bio cellulose. It gives skin an anti-ageing boost by delivering active ingredients using the brand’s complex of biomolecules known as Glyco 8-Power. Its 22 actives include zinc-glycine complex and hyaluronic acid. Trade: £87.50 for six boxes of Repair Night Progress Mask in a counter top dispenser 0845 600 0203 germaine-de-capuccini.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk
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New Products
91 Cynosure Cynosure has extended its body-contouring offering with the launch of StimSure. The non-invasive electromagnetic device delivers 24,000 contractions to core muscles in just 20 to 30 minutes, working to strengthen and tighten the abdomen, buttocks and thighs. The treatment can be tailored to each client’s needs with four pre-set programmes and, for optimum results, the brand recommends clients undergo a programme of six to eight treatments. Trade: £80,000 01628 522252 cynosureuk.com
Dermalogica Following the success of its BioLumin-C Serum last year, Dermalogica has worked the product’s firming and brightening formula into a new targeted eye treatment. Launching on January 9, BioLumin-C Eye Serum is a lightweight cream that the brand says should be applied morning and night to the under-eye area and orbital bone to prevent fine lines and wrinkles. It contains a vitamin C complex, arjun tree and micro-algae extracts, tremella and poria mushrooms, and salvia hispanica. Trade: £30.50 for 15ml 0800 917 7147 dermalogica.co.uk
The Gel Bottle Inc Inspired by the glitz and glamour of the ’20s, the nail brand has released a six-piece Art Deco collection. The showstopping colours include maroon Manhattan, red glitter Ritz, green glitter Ivy, blue glitter Gatsby, pink glitter Broadway and gold glitter Art Deco. The polishes are non-shrink and last up to four weeks. The brand has also launched a limited-edition gift set featuring all the gel-polishes for a discounted price. Trade: £90 for the gift set; £14.50 each for 20ml Manhattan, Ritz and Ivy; £18 each for 20ml Gatsby, Broadway and Art Deco 0333 772 0965 thegelbottle.com
Artdeco The make-up brand’s Be Part Of Glamtopia collection offers a range of products that combine “eye-catching elements” with “minimalism” to create “casual opulence”. It features paraben-free and skin-enhancing Translucent Shimmer Powder; High Intensity Precision Liner N°10, which delivers a deep black hue with easy application; and creamy textured Galaxy Eye Powder. Other products in the range include Lip Jewels lipstick, Glamour Gloss and Glamtopia Blush in a pretty pink hue. RRP: from £15 to £33 028 9061 7403 (Chleo Enterprises) chleoenterprises.com professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Medicalia Created by spa brand Pevonia, Medicalia is now available in the UK with a range of lines including Medi-Renew for preand post-operative eye care; Medi-Soothe for dry, sensitive and rosacea-prone skin; and anti-ageing retinol line MediRepair. Each formula is designed to expedite traumatised skin recovery and decrease downtime post-treatment, as well as helping common chronic skin conditions such as acne. Trade: from £11 to £39 01449 727000 medicalia.com
Gellux The nail brand has two additions to its range to help techs achieve the perfect finish in treatment. The Gellux Holographic Top Coat is a no-wipe high-viscosity top coat that protects the underlying gel-polish colour while creating a holographic effect. Meanwhile, Gellux Mirror Glaze Top Coat gives a mirror-glaze-effect, high-gloss finish. The formula is also scratch resistant and smooths heavy gel polishes. Trade: £11.95 each for 15ml 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com
Wax:one Spruce up your waxing treatment rooms with Wax:one’s branded and super soft Bed Cover. The cover is designed to fit any standard-sized treatment bed thanks to its lightweight, stretchy material and elasticated foot pockets, and it also has a convenient cut-out section at the rear so therapists can put their legs under the bed while working on clients. It comes in a deep blue – Wax:one’s core colour. Trade: £34.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
Scentered The wellness brand’s bathing duo De-stress is aimed at stressed-out clients who need to unwind. De-stress Body & Hand Wash is formulated with aloe to detoxify and honey blossom to nourish, while the Body & Hand lotion is infused with jojoba oil and sweet almond oil to moisturise dry skin. Ingredients such as chamomile, neroli and mandarin are also used in the set to promote calm and support wellbeing. Trade: £15.75 for 300ml set 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com professionalbeauty.co.uk
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CryoSlim unique body contouring system, safe alternative to fat freezing Proven British technology Differentiate yourself from competition by offering the latest generation of Cryolipolysis - safe and kind to the skin, no suction or side effects Offer your clients proven treatments that work with immediate, permanent visible results See us on stand B24 at Aesthetic Medicine Live 2020, Olympia London, 29 February, 1st March Exclusive show offers and launch of CryoFit sports injury treatments.
0800 634 2558 Mobile1 07970 777 777
www.cryoslim.co.uk
Mobile2 07914 074 305
Email: info@cryoslim.co.uk cryoslimact
crysoslimact
JOBS RE YOUR FUTURE... BEGINS HEuty Jobs calls
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New Products
94 Hive
Katie Barnes Tool Range
Hive Solutions’ latest offering is Aromatic Facial Blend – a collection of essential oil-blended formulas that target specific skin issues. Normal/Combination helps clients achieve a healthy complexion using a mixture of sweet almond, bergamot and peppermint oils; Dry Facial uses lemon, sandalwood and geranium oils to nourish thirsty skin; Sensitive calms irritations with a formula of lavender, chamomile and sandalwood; and Oily/Problem has sweet almond, tea tree and grapefruit oils to target congestion. Trade: £5.40 each for 75ml 0845 450 4802 hiveofbeauty.com
PB Award-winning nail tech Katie Barnes has added Thickness Measuring Tool to her KB Tool Range. Made from surgical-grade, chromiumplated Japanese stainless steel, the tool helps techs measure enhancement thickness in treatment. It is lightweight, comes with a marker to ensure consistency across all measurements and has a dial indicator, accurate to 0.01mm for thickness up to 20mm. It is also suitable for both left- and right-handed techs. RRP: £16.99 01926 493974 katiebarnesacademy.com
Thalion
Mii
New from Thalion is Algo Energie – a vitamin-rich serum and face cream duo for clients whose skin is in need of TLC. Energetic Vitamin Cocktail is a serum that brightens the complexion and addresses pigmentation using vitamin A, omega 6 and patented marine active super seaweed. Meanwhile, Radiance Booster Cream leaves skin protected using a blend of essential fatty acids to rebuild the skin barrier function, supporting its ability to protect itself against external aggressors. Trade: £24.90 for 30ml Energetic Vitamin Complex; £22.90 for 50ml Radiance Booster Cream 020 3488 4575 thalloderm.co.uk
Signature Brow Styler helps fill in sparse brows with hairlike strokes comparable to the microblading effect, the brand says, using a fine precision brush tip that creates a naturallooking finish. The pigment is smudge-proof and buildable in volume, so you can create a bolder look for clients if they want it. The Styler is available in six shades: Blonde 01, Dark Blonde 02, Auburn 03, Medium Ash 04, Brown 05 and Ebony 06. Trade: £8.25 each 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Classified
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CALL GABRIEL LARTEY on 020 3841 7376 or email gabriel@professionalbeauty.co.uk
Recruitment
Hakan Altay RENTAL OPPORTUNITIES
Supplies
Beauty Supplies
Winter Sale from 26th December
We are looking for someone to rent the salon hairdressing chairs for £500 per week. The beauty room is also for rent of £500 per week.
10 % o f f
your entire order over £75.00 ex. VAT until the end of January 2020
www.butterfly-supplies.co.uk
Project2_Layout 1 05/03/2019 14:35 Page 1
The salon is located in London Mayfair, Park Lane. It is a luxury Salon only minutes away from Marble Arch station in a 5 star surrounding. Email your CV and Cover Letter to altayparklane@yahoo.co.uk if you are interested.
CLASSIFIEDS Promote your brand, company, services and products for just £85+VAT with a classified listing in the Professional Beauty magazine. SPECIAL OFFER Book a classified advert and receive a FREE web advert on the Professional Beauty website
For further information contact Nur on +44 (0) 207 349 4796 or email nur@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Career Path
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How to make it as a...
salon
CONSULTANT Are you considering making the transition from salon owner to beauty business consultant? Jessica Crane explains the expertise needed to start such an enterprise as well as how to make it profitable
1. You have to be passionate
3. Be confident communicating
“Although I have experience managing salons, it was only when I started teaching hair and beauty at the Heart of England Training’s Leicester branch that I realised I wanted to become a beauty business consultant. Part of my job was to visit apprentices in different salon environments and get to know the owners, and I quickly realised that a lot of them were not financially independent. However, if these salons could become profitable then they would be able to take on more apprentices, helping to grow the industry, so I opened Jessica Crane Ltd consultancy in 2013. “I have 30 to 40 clients signed up to my online programme, which gives 24/7 support and guidance. It includes access to content, tutorials, email contact, a client community forum and a weekly coaching call, which can last anything up to two hours. These calls help me keep the client on track so they can meet their goals, adapting the service as and when is needed.”
“Sometimes it’s hard getting clients to understand that what they want and what they need for their business are two very different things. Usually people want to spend their time and energy on the fun stuff but what they need to do is find out what they’re lacking as a business owner and upskill in that area. “I find that most salon problems come down to two things – either a mindset issue or lack of skill. For example, if the client is struggling at the end of the month to pay their VAT, most think they need to address the issue of paying the bills, but the real problem is they don’t have the organisational skills to manage their cash flow. It’s about approaching these situations differently.”
2. Hone your craft “It may feel like you need to get a lot of clients under your belt when starting out, but perfect your programme first, making sure that your service is better than anything else out there. When setting your prices you need to base it on the value of the service you’re providing, and be confident in that costing. You’re giving clients long-term business solutions with this programme, not short-term fixes. “Also, coaching is a two-way thing, so make sure that every client you take on is the right fit for your business. Salon owners need to commit to the work you set in order to get to where they want to be. You don’t want to take on someone who isn’t motivated because that will be costly for your consultancy.”
4. Credentials are everything “You need a consulting degree, solid knowledge of the economy and an amazing attitude to problem solving to do this job. You’re the person tasked with spotting the holes in the business that the client can’t see, so make sure your financial skills are up to scratch. I also don’t believe you can be a coach if you’ve never invested in your own mentoring skills. Last year, I spent more than £40,000 upskilling my coaching techniques and investing in my business.”
5. The results don’t lie “The best part of the job is seeing the result. When you see the client go through the programme, implement the changes and come out the other side, it’s the most rewarding thing ever. You’ve transformed that person from beauty therapist to successful salon owner, who is making decisions that are propelling their business to increased profit.” PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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UK s Leading Microblading, Nanoblading & Aesthetics Training Academy
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