Professional Beauty July 2020 by Professional Beauty UK

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GROUND RULES

INDUSTRY REACTION TO GOVERNMENT REOPENING GUIDELINES

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Contents

Contents Regulars 21 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 22 Digital direction Getting your social media strategy right when you reopen 27 Insider Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 35 Ward’s world Hellen Ward on why suppliers need to help salons create safe treatment protocols 39 Ask the experts How to prioritise clients’ bookings when you reopen, and advice on different sugaring methods 87 Nail notes Tammy Koslowski on effectively using Instagram to boost your business comeback 93 Operational advice Five ways to help your therapists increase their retail sales by 30% on reopening 95 Treatment news Update your menu with advanced skin treatments from 4T Medical and Gharieni 97 New products The pro brands unveil their new screens, sanitisers, masks and more to help you prepare your salon for reopening 108 Career Path Robbie Tomkins on tells us about his rise to the top as a leading UK male manicurist

Features

On the cover

47 Talking to… Jules Von Hep The celebrity spray tanner and creative director of Isle of Paradise reveals why he’s made it his mission to make the beauty industry more body positive

70 Team effort Seven ways to help your team feel less anxious about returning to work during the coronavirus pandemic 75 The love of money Salon consultant Jessica Crane on introducing a price increase in your salon post-lockdown and how to communicate this with clients 81 The new client journey As salons and spas prepare to reopen, we explore how they can provide the best customer service while staying safe

News Professional Beauty launches #SalonsAreSafe campaign; industry reaction to the new Government guidelines for close contact treatments

57 Set the tone Electro-muscle stimulation (EMS) is back in the spotlight thanks to a wave of new devices with enhanced technical capabilities. We give you the lowdown on these body-contouring machines 67 Is the beauty industry failing black people? We talk to session tech Tinu Bello about the representation of black and minority ethnic people in beauty, and ask what needs to change Cover image: River Island

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Editor’s Comment

At the time of writing, our industry is trapped in a state of limbo. We finally have Government safety guidelines, but in most parts of the UK we’re yet to receive a new reopening date on which to implement them. While hairdressers in England are now gearing up to welcome back their clients on July 4, and those in Scotland on July 15, beauty salons, spas and therapists have been told it’s not yet safe for them to do so, but been given no new goal to work towards and no real clarification as to why. Meanwhile, beauty salons in Ireland were permitted to reopen at the same time as their hair counterparts on June 29; those in Northern Ireland are set to do the same on July 6 and those in Wales on July 13. The response has largely been one of frustration and confusion – if we have the guidelines now, why can’t we open? If beauty is safe to open alongside hair in other areas, why not England and Scotland? While no one should have to offer treatments if they don’t feel it is safe to do so, the majority of salon and spa owners and therapists are desperate to start making an income. For many, the grants, if any, that they received have run out and they are facing difficult decisions regarding potential redundancies and even business closures. If there’s ever been a time for the industry to join together and demand recognition, this is it. Professional Beauty’s #SalonsAreSafe campaign and template letter calling on support from local MPs are both intended to give beauty salons and spas a louder voice so I urge you to get involved. You’ll find all the downloads, along with details of the UK Spa Associations #ADateForWellness campaign, on page 7. Let’s present a united voice and get a date to get back to business.

Editor

@Pro_Beauty01

@Pro_Beauty

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Subscriptions enquiries: 01371 851875 professionalbeauty@escosubs.co.uk Head of editorial: Eve Oxberry eve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7378 Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley amanda@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9064 Content writer: Eleanor Vousden eleanor@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7362 Social media editor: Chris Halpin chris@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7368 Intern: Kieran Read kieran@professionalbeauty.co.uk Sales director: Steve James steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Peter Bishop peter@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7364

Jack Diamond jack@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4792 Amanda Strange amanda.s@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4793 Classified and recruitment sales: Gabriel Lartey gabriel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7376 Publisher: Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4799 Design and production: Senior designer: Jaqui Palmer jaqui@professionalbeauty.co.uk Designers : Alex Charlton-Roberts alex.c@professionalbeauty.co.uk Daniel Parker daniel@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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7 News

News PB launches #SalonsAreSafe campaign calling for a confirmed reopening date After beauty salons were

to share the message too as

omitted from the list of businesses in England

a show of faith in how you’ll look after them. We’d also

allowed to reopen on July 4, and those in Scotland

recommend tagging your local MP, Prime Minister Boris

allowed to reopen on July 15, Professional Beauty

Johnson and/or Business Secretary Alok Sharma.

Group has launched the #SalonsAreSafe campaign

3. Write to or email your local MP, asking for clarity on

to demonstrate to Government that salons are both safe and ready to reopen. PB is encouraging business owners to share the #SalonsAreSafe hashtag on social media, along with our campaign graphic, to show the Government the industry is safe. There are three ways you can get involved: 1. Show how your beauty salon, nail bar or home-based business will be safe on reopening by posting photos and videos on social media using the #SalonsAreSafe hashtag. These photos/videos can be

walkthroughs of your salon showing the changes you’ve made in terms of PPE, social distancing, etc. We’d also recommend tagging your local MP, Prime Minister Boris Johnson and/or Business Secretary Alok Sharma to help get the message direct to UK Government. 2. Share PB’s #SalonsAreSafe graphic on your social media channels while using the #SalonsAreSafe hashtag, explaining how you’ve made your salon safe for reopening. Also, ask your clients

when beauty salons will be able to reopen and explain the measures you’ve put in place to make your business safe. Our drafted letter has been templated, so it’s easy for you to fill in, and you can find the name and contact details of your local MP to send it to here on the UK Parliament website. Separately, the UK Spa Association is launching the #GiveWellnessADate campaign, backed by Professional Beauty and all other spa trade titles, to call for a confirmed date for spas to reopen in all countries of the UK.

Northern Ireland gears up for reopening July 6 and Wales July 13 Although beauty salons in England and Scotland were still awaiting a confirmed reopening date as this issue of Professional Beauty was published, Northern Ireland Executive has announced that beauty and hair salons in Northern Ireland can open on July 6, and the Welsh Government has given a provisional date of July 13. Both dates are dependent on the coronavirus R rate staying a downward trajectory. The statement from the Northern Ireland Executive said that changes to its Coronavirus Regulations included: “The re-opening of hair

salon and barbers – July 6. This also covers close contact businesses... and includes nail, beauty, hair salons and barbers, tanning services, electrolysis or acupuncture.” However, there is no official reopening date for spas in Northern Ireland. The new guidance confirms “spas and leisure facilities at hotels will not be permitted to open at this stage.” Meanwhile, the

Welsh Government released plans to restart the economy, with beauty and hair salons potentially reopening on an “appointmentonly” basis on July 13, depending on how the virus is progressing.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

News

inbrief

Government releases guidelines for close contact services For PPE, the main requirement is a visor, with the guidelines stating, “This

// The Black Aesthetics Advisory Board (BAAB) has been formed by Dr Tijion Esho, Dija Ayodele, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme and Dr Amiee Vyas to investigate the experiences of black practitioners within aesthetics, as well as those of black and minority ethnic patients. The group wants to inform change; from ensuring all practitioners understand the needs of black skin to increasing representation of black professionals at all industry levels. // Cancer support charity Look Good Feel Better has adapted its “Skin Fitness” group sessions for male cancer patients during the coronavirus pandemic by launching a virtual version online. The workshops create a supportive environment to focus on skincare, shaving and grooming advice for those struggling. // Vita Liberata has launched a sun safety and skin cancer awareness campaign, as well as donating to the Skin Cancer Foundation and partnering with consultant dermatologist Dr Alia Ahmed. The #BodyCareChecks initiative is designed to help clients get familiar with their skin and understand if any changes might be cause for concern. // Lynton Lasers has donated its Light Soothe Cooling Recovery Serum to support the NHS in Stepping Hill, helping to rehydrate and heal the damaged skin of frontline staff’s hands. Dr Jon Exley says the choice was inspired by those returning to work, volunteering to help others and wanting to give back.

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should take the form of a clear visor that covers the face and provides a barrier between the wearer and the client from respiratory droplets caused by sneezing, coughing or speaking. Visors must fit the user and be worn properly. It should cover the forehead, extend below the chin, The Government has released safety procedures for performing close contact

and wrap around the side of the face.” The guidelines also cover social

beauty services. These guidelines have been designed to help prepare beauty

distancing measures including the use of disposable items where possible and

salons, spas, nail bars, make-up artists and mobile/home-based therapists in England to safely reopen their businesses once a date is confirmed. You can read the safety guidelines here. They state that a risk assessment must be carried out, shared with your workforce and published on your website. You also need to demonstrate to clients that you taken appropriate measures to mitigate the risk by displaying a notification in a prominent place in your business.

ensuring non-disposable items are cleaned between clients; and Installing screens to protect workers in receptions or similar areas. Salons must also operate an appointment-only system, asking clients and staff not to visit the salon if they feel unwell, and keep a temporary record of clients and visitors for 21 days, assisting NHS Test and Trace with requests for that data if needed. The guidelines also cover increased surface cleaning and hand washing.

Industry reacts to Government guidelines and reopening delay Upon the announcement of the safety guidelines and the delay in a confirmed date for reopening in England or Scotland, the industry has reacted with mixed feelings. Penny Kimpton, salon director at Sparx Beauty in Winchester, Hampshire, commented: “We have all of this in place and even secured a temporary premises to ensure social distancing. We are an aesthetic and beauty clinic, CQC registered for specific treatments. We follow such strict hygiene procedures as a matter of course. I’m completely stunned that we cannot open the same time as hair.” Emma Batkin, owner of Fabulous You Beauty in Tarporley, Cheshire, said, “We all want to get back to work but our health and our clients health is paramount. I completely understand

why the government isn’t allowing us back just yet.” Natalie Henson, owner of Regent Beauty in Barwell, Leicestershire, said: “I feel we’re being branded as a business that’s not as ‘good’ as hairdressers or barbers…Why can a back massage not be performed? In pedicures, you’re away from their faces.” Join the debate at professionalbeauty.co.uk and facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK

News

inbrief

Five coronavirus skin issues identified by dermatologists A study by the Spanish Academy of Dermatology identified five common skin manifestations in those suffering

// Sweet Squared has launched free online education run by CND’s education ambassador Nataliya Al-Ta’ai, in conjunction with its recently launched Shellac Wear Extender Base Coat. The sessions will cover five-point polish methods, 10-minute removal techniques and tips for retailing the product. // Founder Leighton Denny has returned to run the Leighton Denny Expert Nail brand, which he founded in 2005 but left in 2017, after 18 months in a part-time advisory role. The brand is now manufactured by Prestige Personal Care. // International speaker, educator and beauty business expert Liz McKeon has launched the Liz McKeon Salon Business Academy, an online course which contains instructional seminars over five modules. Designed to be taken at the participant’s own pace, the course offers a certificate on completion and is accessible on mobile.

with Covid-19. The study by four dermatologists reviewed images of unexplained skin eruptions in 120 patients with suspected or confirmed Covid-19, and then a consensus was reached. Just under a fifth (19%) of cases presented with pseudo-chilblain symptoms, commonly found on the hands and feet, lasting for a mean of 12.7 days. Other vesicular eruptions (small blisters) were seen in 9% of those

under half (47%), which generally lasted for a shorter period of time – 6.8

studied and lasting for a mean of 10.4 days. Urticarial lesions, commonly interpreted as nettle rash or wheals which show as pink or white raised areas of skin, were present in 19% of patients, and other maculopapules (small, flat and raised red bumps) in just

mean days for urticarial and 8.6 for maculopapular. These were usually associated with more severe Covid-19 cases. Livedo or necrosis was only present in 6% of cases and associated with older patients with more severe diseases.

Salon and spa visits top clients’ post-coronavirus activity wish list

// Skincare brand 111SKIN has opened 12 new global online and in-store accounts this year, including Selfridges, Sephora and Look Fantastic. It exclusviely launched into Beauty Workshop in February with its Rose Gold Radiance Eye Mask, before establishing its online store in May. // Roz Colthart, founder of Salon Studios, has launched “Salonpreneur,” a free online support network for selfemployed salon professionals. The network includes social media checklists, pre-made Canva templates and more. Sign up is free and new members will receive a free three-month subscription to booking platform Treatwell.

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Salons will be happy to hear that having a beauty treatment is the UK’s third most anticipated post-coronavirus lockdown activity, according to Kantar Media’s research of social media posts, beaten only by a night out with friends at the pub (top spot) and attending a live event or outdoor venue (second place). Meanwhile, UK consumers also can’t wait to relax in spas again, with 80% keen to visit now or in the next few

months, according to The Good Spa Guide’s consumer habits survey, conducted in collaboration with the UK Spa Association (UKSA). More than half (65%) of the 5,000 people surveyed cited “just relaxing in a spa environment” as their main reason for returning and 6% also plan to visit more regularly than before. When spas reopen, 69% of consumers will feel comfortable booking a manicure or pedicure treatment, 60% a massage and 50% a facial. More than half (68%) will also look to book two-to-three-day wellness retreats, especially those focusing on sleep and nutrition.

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News

inbrief

92% of UK spas significantly impacted by coronavirus

// Hotel and spa Ye Olde Bell in Nottinghamshire has launched “Spacations,” which include exclusive spa hire and private staycations. Bookings will be tailored to each group, with services including thermal experience, snowstorm or vitality pool. // London molecular wellness clinic BelleCell has created its own genetic skincare and supplement range, designed to prevent signs of antiageing by supporting the genes that aren’t performing optimally. This launch incorporates an at-home genetic testing service to personalise the skincare and supplements sent via post. // Marie Louise-Coster, owner of All About Mi in Chipping Sodbury, ran a series of four-hour nail art courses online in June in conjunction with Louella Belle. Topics included tutorials for animal print, aquarelle and Disney characters. // Online platform Get Harley has extended its remit from online retail to helping practitioners offer online consultations for skin and in-clinic treatments in an effort to reduce in-clinic appointments. The facility encourages clients to pay a deposit for future treatments. // Vegan nail brand Peacći launched home kits for the tortie nail trend alongside an online workshop with The GelBottle Inc’s educator Helena Marimon over Instagram Live. The kit contains a base coat, polishes in three shades and a round gel brush.

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Coronavirus has had a “severe” or “significant impact” on 92% of UK spas since lockdown started in March, according to the UK Spa Association’s (UKSA) What’s Next for Wellness Survey. Although more than half (54%) plan to reopen as soon as restrictions have been lifted to help their business survive the pandemic, only 13% anticipate being able to open their spa in full capacity, the report found. A fifth (20%) stated there was a possibility that their spa may not reopen at all following the lifting of restrictions. A massive 87% of operators have had to furlough the majority of their staff and just under a third (28%) anticipate

the need to make redundancies in the future. More than half (57%) are also concerned about the cost of essential PPE, while 72% say it’s important to them that all PPE is sustainably manufactured, the report found. Meanwhile, more than a third (38%) plan to restrict the use of their thermal facilities when they reopen, with 22% also planning to phase the reopening of pool areas. The majority (76%) are also in agreement that spas should remove testers from their retail displays. Survey respondents were from a cross-section of the industry, including operators, suppliers, consultants and therapists.

UK economy won’t recover from coronavirus until 2025, say SMEs Four in 10 small business owners believe it will take more than five years for the UK’s economy to recover from the impact of coronavirus and the enforced lockdown, according to research by the #ForgottenLtd Campaign. Only 15% of the 1,000 small business owners polled believe the economy will be back on its feet by the end of 2021, whereas more than a quarter (28%) think it will take up to three years to see a complete comeback, the report found. However, 18% think it could take as

long as five years for a full recovery, while more than a third (39%) were of the belief that it will only be after 2025 that we will see the economy back to normality.

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News

diarydates

Leading brands share bespoke guidelines for re-opening Pro brands including Lynton Lasers, Dermalogica and Aromatherapy Associates have

//October 11 World Spa & Wellness Awards London A celebration of the best hotels and resort spas from around the world. 020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com/ awards // October 11–12 Professional Beauty London ExCeL London The flagship show from the PB Group will now be held alongside major hair show Salon International. It will include conferences for spa, manufacturing, and more. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ London // October 11–12 World Spa & Wellness Convention London ExCeL London The essential conference for international spa owners and hoteliers looking to network. 020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com/ London // November 2 Professional Beauty Awards London Hilton Park Lane Prestigious awards ceremony for beauty, spa and nails. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ pbawards // November 8–9 Professional Beauty and Hairdressers’ Journal Ireland Citywest Dublin Join Ireland’s biggest beauty, hair and spa trade show, featuring PBHJ Ireland Awards. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.ie/interest // November 15–16 Professional Beauty North EventCity Manchester The largest beauty exhibition in the North is back. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ north

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unveiled their own guidelines to help their salon and spa accounts on re-opening. Created to meet Government guidelines but also add more specifics for certain treatments, the guidelines detail new customer service protocols surrounding Covid-19. Health and hygiene precautions dominate, with policies regarding contactless reception and retail services, as well as new training and e-learning opportunities for staff. Aromatherapy Associates has introduced In Spa Treatments and InRoom Wellbeing Experiences related to current client concerns, such as sleep, stress and anxiety, and suggested new revenue opportunities. Meanwhile, Lynton has incorporated free webinars, help guides led by digital consultant Rick O’Neil and a “re-opening checklist.” Other precautions in both involve the use of PPE, cleaning of treatment

rooms and the importance of scheduling, as well as increased communication with clients through positive messaging and social media. Dermalogica created a Clean Touch Certification, for skin therapists who complete their free online course, while Phorest has launched the Reopening Resource Bank, which includes its “Getting Back In Business Playbook” covering operations and finances. L’Oréal Professional Products, which owns Decléor, has released a Back to Business Salon Support Guide for salons and hairdressers.

Peaches owner to launch CBD face and body skincare range

Kerri-Ann Angus, owner of Peaches salons and the Peaches Academy, is launching a vegan-friendly CBD face and body skincare range in July. The Peaches Wellness CBD retail range will feature a body butter, lip balm, roll on, cooling gel and gummies, with a facial skincare range due to follow in August.

A professional-only line for beauty salons and spas is also in the works, which will feature a massage oil, body oil and bath salts, and it will complement the brand’s CBD facial and body treatment course, both launching in the winter. “Our endocannabinoid system – a complex cell-signalling system made up of endocannabinoids that are similar to the cannabinoid compounds found in cannabis – plays a role in in regulating our memory, mood, sleep, appetite and even our reproduction and fertility, and this got me interested in finding out as much as possible on the benefits and uses of CBD,” Angus told Professional Beauty.

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beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Digital

Claire Jones, lead therapist and owner at Claire Louise Beauty, Manchester: Big thanks to @pro_beauty for your webinar today, it was excellent and very informative! Great to be able to hear how other businesses around the world are tacking the current situation.

Hot topic Metta Francis, mobile nail technician in London: Yes @tinubellomanicurist! Love to see it! Will be tuned in, and great to see Pro Beauty organising this!

Beauty salons and spas not included in list of businesses allowed to reopen on July 4 Carla Thompson, owner of Lash Secret in London, commented: “So pubs open, people all having a good time, which is great, but will they keep a distance? I do lashes only…I’m based in a corporate building with a large communal lounge, I have one client at a time. How is this not safer? Totally gutted, as I miss my clients.” Faneeza Mower, owner of Footprints Beauty in Essex, commented:“Thank you Professional Beauty for fighting our corner. It is an unfair announcement and not properly thought through.”

THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Have you been keeping in contact with your salon/spa clients during lockdown?

78% YES

22% NO

Hot topic Professional Beauty creates salon coronavirus reopening guidance poster Caroline Fogg, founder of Allure MediSpa in Liverpool, commented:“I think your salon guidelines for Covid-19 are very thorough and will give a lot of clients reassurance before making an appointment. It’s also very good for posting on social media, as it will educate clients before they arrive and make them familiar with what is expected.” Lesley Caster, owner of City Retreat Salon & Spa in Newcastle, commented:“Thank you Professional Beauty. Excellent, very informative and concise. This is perfect for emailing to clients pre-treatment.”

Follow Professional Beauty…

@pro_beauty

@pro_beauty01 and the team:

facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK

@eveoxberry, @mini_pauley

uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty

@eleanorvousden and @katsjonouchi

youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty

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Digital Direction

Social success As beauty salons prepare to re-open when they’re allowed to do so, social media editor Chris Halpin shares some tools and ideas to help you stay on top of your social media plan

t’s likely that the first few weeks back in the salon will be some of the busiest. This hectic period is, understandably, likely to limit your ability to plan and post content on your social channels. Most clients will likely understand that you might be too busy to respond straight away. At the same time, if you’ve got lots of people asking questions or looking for appointments, then you don’t want them to think you’re ignoring them.

Get ahead Thankfully, there are some in-built tools to help with this. If you’re not already taking advantage of away messages on Facebook, then definitely look at setting these up. This sends an automated response (that you can personalise) when people message your page at designated times of the day. Use these messages to explain the current situation and why you might not be able to respond as quickly as you’d like – but also, try to set a realistic timescale on when you will be able to reply. Instagram’s “quick replies” function can also be helpful here. While not automated, it can speed up the process of replying to questions about appointments, safety and other topics. You can also pin relevant posts to the top of your Facebook or Twitter page to keep people up to date.

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Making sure that clients feel safe and confident in coming back to salons is obviously going to be important as well. This is another case where social can really help you get that message across quickly and easily. Show the changes you’ve made to your systems to fit in with the guidance available. A walk-through video of the “new” salon experience can explain that brilliantly. If you inject your own personality in to that video, it will also remind clients that while some things may have changed in the salon, the people behind it have not. If you’re not confident with video, photos will do the job too. What’s important is that you’re showing clients what you’ve done, as well as just saying what you’ve done in text.

Set the date And just as salons might be too busy to respond to questions on social media, creating content might also be a task that’s pushed to the side. If you can take a bulk set of “safe re-opening” photos or videos early on, make use of scheduling tools to fill out your calendar for the first couple of weeks of re-opening. Just remember, no matter what kind of content you’re putting up, make certain that the guidelines are being followed with good PPE and social distancing (where possible) on show. If you upload content that doesn’t show this, it could undermine clients’ confidence. PB

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27 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

beauty

As UK salons make preparations to reopen, you are looking closely at your health and safety protocols, as well as making necessary changes to ensure your business adheres to the Government’s social distancing rules (which from July 4 is “one metre-plus”). Sourcing the correct personal protective equipment

masks and a quarter (25%) gloves – with both either being too expensive or not available to order in the quantity you need. Some business owners (39%) have had to apply for a loan during lockdown – such as the Coronavirus Business Interruption Loan Scheme – to help their salon survive the pandemic. We also asked what treatments you were nervous about performing when you reopen, from a social distancing point of view, and facials came out top, with more than half (65%) worried about the close contact needed during this treatment. Full-body massage (31%) and a brow shape and tint (31%) also rank highly on this list.

M&S

(PPE) has been crucial, but more than a third of you (36%) have found it tough to get your hands on face

On the spot Which aesthetic treatment is most popular with clients? 1. Microdermabrasion (25%) 2. Chemical peels (22%) 3. Microneedling (12%) 4. Laser (8%) 5. Body-contouring (2%)

a VIP club for % have their most loyal clients

Which treatments are you nervous about performing when you reopen? 1. Facial (65%) 2. Brow shape/tint (31%) 3. Massage (31%) 4. Lash extensions/lift (30%) 5. Waxing (15%)

Take part in our Insider feature

Which PPE item have you found it difficult to source prior to reopening? 1. Face masks (36%) 2. Gloves (25%) 3. Screen protectors (8%) 4. Face shields (6%) 5. Other (15%)

39%

have applied for a loan (e.g. Coronavirus Business Interruption Loan Scheme) during lockdown

Which skincare conditions would you like your team to train in? 1. Adult acne (40%) 2. Sun damage (34%) 3. Pigmentation (32%) 4. Menopause (31%) 5. Rosacea (31%)

Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider professionalbeauty.co.uk

Insider

spa

With clients eagerly awaiting the time when they can come back to your spa for some rest and relaxation, many want to know about the safety protocols you’re putting in place and your hygiene policy. As a result, most of you have been stocking up on PPE such as face shields and gloves, but you’re finding it difficult to source the right face masks (29%) or screen protectors (19%) due to availability and price increases. Although many of your therapists are raring to return to work, it’s not surprising that more than three quarters (81%) are nervous about performing facials, a third (33%) massage and 29% waxing until they get clearer guidance from the Government on the social distancing measures that have to be met. Being able to treat all skin conditions in your spa is a top priority, with many operators hoping to have their team take further training to better understand menopausal skin (38%), as well as pigmentation (38%), dermatitis (29%), adult acne and rosacea (both 24%).

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Business Trends

On the spot Which water facility is most popular with clients? 1. Jacuzzi (43%) 2. Hydrotherapy pool (19%) 3. Natural water pool (14%) 4. Experience showers (5%) 5. Plunge pool (5%)

have a VIP club for their most loyal clients

Which treatments are you nervous about performing when you reopen? 1. Facial (81%) 2. Massage (33%) 3. Waxing (29%) 4. Body scrub (24%) 5. Manicure/pedicure (10%) professionalbeauty.co.uk

Which PPE item have you found it difficult to source prior to reopening? 1. Face masks (29%) 2. Screen protectors (19%) 3. Face shield (14%) 4. Gloves (10%) 5. Other (28%)

48%

have applied for a loan (e.g. Coronavirus Business Interruption Loan Scheme) during lockdown

Which skincare condition would you like your team to take further training on? 1. Menopausal (38%) 2. Pigmentation (38%) 3. Dermatitis (29%) 4. Adult acne (24%) 5. Rosacea (24%)

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Insider

nails

More than half of you (59%) think a gel-polish manicure is going to be the treatment clients book in for the most when you reopen, followed closely by a pedicure with lacquer polish (11%), which makes sense with summer in full swing. Interestingly, just under half (45%) are thinking about investing in nail desk shields for when you reopen to put both clients’ and techs’ minds at ease. Many of you are also considering introducing a price increase to your nail treatment menu post-coronavirus lockdown, with 32% having last done one a year ago and 22% two years ago. One positive to come out of the pandemic is that nearly three quarters of you (73%) say the situation has made clients value the work you do more, and realise how important a professional treatment is for their overall wellbeing. Keeping your social media channels updated with relevant content for your nail regulars has been crucial, and during lockdown advice on proper gel-polish removal (38%), pictures of how you’re prepping to reopen (28%) and a first look at the latest polish collections (15%) have been most popular.

River Island

Business Trends

On the spot Which treatment do you think will be most popular when you reopen? 1. Gel-polish manicure (59%) 2. Pedicure with lacquer polish (11%) 3. Manicure with lacquer polish (7%) 4. Acrylic (7%) 5. Gel-polish pedicure (4%)

of you have nail techs who’ve done session work

Which social media content has been most popular with clients during lockdown? 1. Guidance on proper gel-polish removal (38%) 2. Pics/videos on reopening preparations (28%) 3. Live videos on how your business is doing (21%) 4. Pics/videos of latest nail collections (15%) 5. Nail demos that clients can try at home (11%)

think nail desk shields are worth the investment

When was the last time you did a price increase on your nail menu? 1. One year ago (32%) 2. Two years (22%) 3. 18 months (15%) 4. Six months (13%) 5. Other (18%)

think lockdown has made clients value your work more

METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email from June 4–11, regarding business for the month to May 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

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Ward’s World

HITthe

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Managing through this period of constant change has been a challenge for all salon owners, so we need to ask for help from our suppliers, writes HELLEN WARD

t the time of writing, we’ve just received

Government guidelines. With hair salon owners facing so much to sort out in order to create the “new normal”, the beauty industry is left just waiting, and hoping. With no date for reopening, swathes of nail bars, beauty salons and spas are no doubt keeping their team furloughed until they get their precious date. I cannot say I’m surprised. Beauty is the closest contact work of all so it always seemed unlikely that we could forge ahead as safely as something like barbering. Prohibiting manicure and pedicure surprised me, but in discussing it with my spa director, there’s risk that even I hadn’t thought through. We use gels and polishes on clients; so do we have to ask them to buy the bottle for their own singular use and bring it back every time? It’s a logistical nightmare. Our beauty team are raring to get back to work and salons that do both hair and beauty, like ours, will feel incomplete without them. Their loyal following and their expertise is a huge part of our brand.

Change management

summed up the experience. “It’s like driving through thick fog,” I said. “You can only see what’s just in front of you. You cannot look any further forward because you just can’t see what might be coming.” All successful businesses need to plan and forecast. Of course, plans need a degree of fluidity, but trying to make them as clear cut as possible is key. Black and white – no grey. But the trouble is that grey is all there is right now. And that is as unsettling for the salon owners as it is for staff. So what can we do? Well, now is the time we need help from the suppliers and manufacturers that provide our products and create our treatment protocols. Please don’t leave it to us to come up with Covid-friendly versions of your services. Help us figure out if there is anything we can adapt or re-invent to enable us to get some options for not just the immediate future, but that we can keep under our hats for further waves, more restrictions At the time of writing, I’ve not heard from any beauty product supplier with any information on how we might carry on conducting the services they’ve sold in to us. We need the people selling us the raw materials and the equipment to help us come up with some fresh ideas on how we might adapt. We may need these revised treatment protocols more than ever in the future, so putting the work in now will help them survive as much as it will help us. PB

Now is the time we need help from the suppliers and manufacturers that provide our products and create our treatment protocols

Managing a business through this pandemic has been one of the biggest tests I’ve endured in my 30 years in the industry. Keeping a loyal team positive while making the very necessary changes to safeguard the future of the company has been extremely challenging. Fighting the landlord, praying for a successful insurance claim outcome, waiting for updates from the chancellor, keeping on top of legislation – all with the aim of trying to ensure we are ready. Hard enough, but when the goalposts are constantly moving, only the strong will survive. In one of my regular meetings with our core management team ahead of opening, I thought of an analogy that

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

36 Promotional Feature

hot Brow

The

TREND

Brow lamination is a treatment that’s in high demand. The London Brow Company has developed a unique method and product

t’s become one of the most requested eyebrow treatments in beauty salons around the world, but what exactly is brow lamination and why is everyone going mad for it? Think of brow lamination as a perm for the brows. The innovative technique transforms unruly or sparse brows by smoothing and lifting the hair in a vertical direction. The end result is brows that look beautifully glossy and brushed up, meaning your clients wake up with perfect brows every day. “Brow lamination originated in Russia around three years ago, but it is now making its mark in the beauty industry worldwide,” says Leigh Blackwell, founder of The London Brow Company. “It only made its way into the UK last year when accredited courses started running.” The London Brow company was one of the first to bring eyebrow lamination to the United Kingdom and the company has been at the forefront of raising awareness of this incredible trend in the UK and international brow industry. With its specially formulated brow lift products and unique brow laminating method, The London Brow Company has created a brow perm that is exclusive to their London Brow artists. Giving clients a quality product and safe yet effective perming method is what sets the company apart from the competition. The London Brow Company is passionate about brows and dedicated to improving and developing this new trend, which is why brow artists trust the company and its products. Due to popular demand, the company has now increased training opportunities and offers online courses in Brow Lamination and Henna Brows. “All courses are professionally filmed and industry

accredited by Associated Beauty Therapists, so you will gain a professional certificate once completed, which is a great way to get a foot into the brow industry. The course is done on a professional platform where you can access the content as often as you need for a six-month period,” says Blackwell. “You gain instant access to the course on payment so there are no delays and you can track your progress as you go. You work through full theory, which covers industry training, insurance, starting your own business and then the Brow Lamination treatment itself. There is also a community of other students doing the course, who you can speak to and share tricks and tips as you learn.” Everyone who joins the course is assigned a dedicated tutor that they can contact throughout their six-month training period. Once the course is completed and the certificate obtained, access to unlimited after-course support is provided. The course is written and filmed by Leigh Blackwell with a professional film crew. The video tutorials have a guided step-by-step and up-close filming of the procedure so students are able to get in-depth training and knowledge. Those who sign up for the course receive a 10% discount on their first London Brow Lamination kit order.

All courses are professionally filmed and industry accredited by Associated Beauty Therapists, so you will gain a professional certificate

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The London Brow Company also runs a Henna Brow Design course, a Lash Lift and Tinting course and a beginners’ Brow. londonbrowcompany.com hello@londonbrowcompany.com 0800 334 5373

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Business Tips

ask

the EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business How can I operate my salon effectively with strict covid-19 safety measures in place? There has never been a bigger event in history to derail our human touch industry than the covid-19 outbreak. But the great news is that the majority of your clients will be very eager to return for their professional services, However, we have to be well prepared to safely welcome them back. Here are three critical factors when planning your return to work: Prep your team – Every team member needs to understand the new “laws of client engagement”. Issue revised work schedules, training on PPE gear, disposable client items and new bed set-ups. Education materials on disinfection and hand washing are also key, while a hygiene safety checklist for both service providers and customers is also recommended. Perform a daily wellness check for all staff with a brief Q&A and by using a touchless infrared thermometer. Also consider how you wash uniforms, think about using disposable linens and develop your existing cleaning and sterilisation methods. New safety protocols – Over-communicate to your clients the new sanitation procedures; via social, your website, signage throughout your space, email and verbally when confirming their appointment. Limit the clients you allow into your business to lower the risk of possible transmission – take clients by appointment only and stagger their appointment time to allow for thorough cleaning. You may need for them to wait in their car or outside before entering your business at their scheduled appointment time. Have masks available for clients as well as hand sanitiser placed at multiple locations. Post signage throughout the salon encouraging social distancing. Let clients know that they will need to rebook if they have an elevated temperature.

Mindfully Gearing Up – Beyond frequent hand washing, you’re probably considering masks and visors. Consider reusable, environmentally conscious. fabric masks. High-tech versions are moulded to the face, comfortable and have three layers, the central one being infused with antibacterial silver ion technology to provide protection yet breathability. Look for lightweight, ergonomically designed face shields that fit snuggly and have anti-fog, anti-scratch clear PET plastic that is distortion free.

Annet King is vice president of business development at Bio-Therapeutic, responsible for global brand expansion. Previously, she’s held leading roles at Dermalogica and Elemis.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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40 Business Tips

Which is the most effective method for sugaring? Sugaring is one of the oldest treatments for hair removal, originating in ancient Egypt. Throughout different cultures, both the technique of sugaring and the pastes have evolved. With a simple search on YouTube you’ll find numerous ways to sugar, from applying the paste with a stick and removing it with a strip, also called sugar waxing, to applying the paste with the fingers and removing with a flick of the wrist. I’ve been a long-time practitioner of the latter technique, which is known as the “hand method” or “traditional

How might my clients’ skin have changed during lockdown? For many, the past few months have brought a change in working environment, maybe more time spent outdoors, additional stresses juggling home schooling and family life with working from home, plus financial worries. We know that the skin reflects what is happening internally and that it is affected by our lifestyle, diet and stress. With the skin cell cycle taking around a month, many clients are now bearing their lockdown look. So, what can you do to assist? Education. We are all aware of the damaging effects of UVA and UVB light and know that wearing sunscreen should be a daily habit. However, the skin needs protecting from more than just the sun. Additional screen time has increased our exposure to HEV (high energy visible light) or blue light dramatically this year. This invisible form of pollution can lead to inflammation, impaired healing, compromised melanogenesis, sensitivity, dryness, wrinkles and uneven tone and texture. Environmental pollution may have decreased a little during lockdown but there is also domestic pollution to consider: paint, cleaning products and washing detergents. Share this with your clients. Social media posts are the most effective way to communicate the solutions. Combat the oxidative stress and look for products containing powerful protective agents such as pre and probiotic complexes to stimulate the balance of the skin microbiome/skin flora; niacinamide to repair the barrier function and help reinforce the skin’s immune system; lightClare Dickens is managing reflecting pigments to act as director of Totally UK, optical diffusers to correct and which distributors spa brighten; and oxygen for skincare brand Germaine detoxification.

method”. It requires only your hand and a ball of soft sugar paste, no sticks or strips. You mould the paste on against the direction of growth, which allows it to fully encapsulate the hair and seep into the head of the follicle. When hair is extracted in the direction of growth, clients tend to report less discomfort or ingrown hairs due to the reduction in breakage. Sugar is also only heated to room temperature, eliminating the risk of burning or sensitisation. One of my favourite things about sugaring is that it’s water-soluble. Clean up is easy with just a wet cloth. Water solubility also means that sugar cannot lift live skin so you can double or triple back over any areas to get the extraction you want.

Stephanie King is founder of London Sugaring Company and director of education and international distribution for Tamara’s Sugar,

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Tips

I had only just launched my spa before lockdown hit. What now? The Spa at Carden opened on January 6, so we were only open for just under three months before the official lockdown started.

How should I prioritise clients’ bookings when I reopen? Covid-19 has shut down beauty salons and spas across the UK for more than 14 weeks now, but every day we are getting closer to re-opening, and, fingers crossed, expecting huge demand for beauty appointments. So, if that huge demand does materialise, who do you ensure gets the first appointments? Loyalty comes first. A great deal of thought needs to be given to who you prioritise, but top of the list should be your loyal/VIP clients. If you have a loyalty scheme it will be clear who those clients are, and if you do not, get your team together to make a list of your most loyal clients. They will be the people who have supported you regularly for a number of years. A call from the salon owner or manager to the client will help to cement your relationship, and of course make the client feel special. Secondly, it will be important to create a priority booking list, which is a fair way to allocate time to clients. Clients who were booked in before lockdown, and were consequently unable to have their treatments, should be contacted and given the opportunity to make an appointment as a priority. Some consideration should also be given to trying to book higher-revenue treatments and upselling so that when your salon does re-open you can maximise profitability as soon as possible. Finally, the rotas for your team will have taken a great deal of time to organise because of the need to ensure that the salon is operating Anna Nickless is director of AB Beauty Consultancy, safely. Emphasise to clients that it which she launched this is a desire to protect them and year with Bonnie Platts. The your teams that has led to limited duo previously ran the Lavender & Stone salon group in the South availability in the early stages of reopening.

We were in the middle of launch so we didn’t get to our official opening. The major thing with a new business is that you’re not established yet so you’re still getting people to understand your offering and come to you. The biggest challenge thrown up by this situation for us was to not lose that momentum. However, I actually think there are some advantages to being a new business going through this. Your business is still evolving so your team is used to change and not stuck in old ways. We were already regularly reviewing and changing things, so the team will be responsive to the changes that come in the future. We’ve have learned a lot about our team members and how everyone operates, so it’s fresh in our minds how we can do things better. I’d recommend that everyone sees this as an opportunity to set targets and goals and really think about what you want to do with your business. Moving forward, it’s working to understand that plans change and it’s now going to be such a changing environment.” PB

Steve Ewing is spa director at Carden Park Hotel in Cheshire, where he runs The Spa at Carden, a £10m, 4,500sq ft two-storey spa.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Interview

Talking to...

JULES Von Hep The celeb spray tanner tells Amanda Pauley how he’s been disrupting the industry’s outdated views of “beauty”, and why the body positivity movement needs to be taken up a notch

espite the strides that have been made by the beauty industry in recent years to amplify the body positivity movement, it’s fair to say that more needs to be done to celebrate all body types. Somebody who has been championing this for a long time and is a true leader of the movement is Jules Heptonstall – better known by the moniker Jules Von Hep – a celebrity spray tanning expert and creative director and founder of colour-correcting self-tan brand Isle of Paradise. For years, Von Hep has been trying to make everybody feel body confident and working hard to help clients break that vicious cycle of comparison – comparing themselves to heavily filtered images on social media. His message isn’t a gimmick either, as soon as you watch his videos and read his posts you can tell it comes from the heart.

Not only has Von Hep spoken openly about struggling with his body image and being bullied in school and the workplace, but he regularly shares posts on social media about the importance of looking after your mental health and loving yourself the way you are.

Positive outlook But that’s not all. Last year, Von Hep launched a game-changing Body Positivity campaign for Isle of Paradise, which featured 10 tanned models in their underwear. The imagery went viral for its sheer diversity, including men, women and all body shapes and sizes, including plus-size model Tess Holliday and disabled beauty blogger Tess Daly. “It was a huge movement across the internet,”

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Interview

says Von Hep. “I always try and use my position in the industry for good, to make positive changes. I originally never wanted to launch a self-tan brand but I felt it was my duty because the way that traditional brands were communicating about tanning was wrong – i.e. tanning to look skinny. That was never what tan was for me – it was to feel good, feel confident. I wanted people to use my product and feel empowered by their body.” But, it’s not been easy for Von Hep to get his message out there. When he first launched Isle of Paradise in 2018, using a curvy model in the marketing imagery was no easy feat. “This

Top: An image from the Isle of Paradise Get Body Posi campaign; bottom: With Little Mix on X Factor in 2011

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sounds so alien because, amazingly, using a curve model is now more of the done thing, but I can’t tell you how hard it was at the time to get that across the line,” explains Hep. “Once the campaign launched, I was inundated with messages from customers who said they were crying because they finally felt like they could tan. They finally felt accepted.”

Winds of change Despite these achievements, Von Hep still wants the body positivity movement to be turned up a gear this year, stating that people with disabilities, gender fluidity and the trans world need more of a voice. “The industry needs to view it not as a token disabled or trans person [in the campaign], but to celebrate that person as an individual. We should be casting on achievements,” he says. “It doesn’t matter what you look like, as that’s not necessarily the most interesting thing about you. What you’ve done, what you’ve achieved, what your beliefs are – now that’s interesting. Let’s celebrate that.” It’s also about making these people feel included and that they can tan like anybody else, and any good spray tanner should be able to deliver this. “You want to give them the best tan you can, so you need to be upfront and honest with the client – don’t pussyfoot around the issue,” advises Von Hep. “A client with a disability will know how much

Interview

50 Left: Backstage at Milan Fasion Week; below: With Made in Chelsea’s Millie Mackintosh on the red carpet

they can move their body, so you have to ask them: can I move your arm? Can I lift your leg? Are you going to be in any pain? Don’t be nervous to ask these things. You’ll also need to hand-apply the tan with mousse and mitt because the pressure of the solution from the gun and the way it’s going to sit on the skin won’t work for somebody who is in a wheelchair, for example,” he adds. Von Hep also wants airbrushing and retouching in the beauty industry to come to a stop, especially after working on sets and then later seeing photos of the celebrity he worked on that look completely different to the images that were coming through from the photographer’s camera on the day of the shoot. “Taking cellulite, body hairs and wrinkles out of an image is just lying and it’s not fair,” he says. “You’re lying to a consumer to get them to buy a product that doesn’t do what you say it does because you’ve airbrushed it. I just find that side of the industry mentally difficult to process.”

Lead by example

Airbrushing needs to stop. Taking cellulite, body hairs and wrinkles out of an image is just lying and it’s not fair

As well as his admirable work promoting body positivity, Von Hep is also a sought-after spray tanner. His celebrity clients including TV Presenter Stacey Dooley and he’s worked on top TV shows such as The Crown, The X Factor and Strictly Come Dancing. However, Von Hep is proud he’s remained a man of the people, working to instil confidence to everyone he meets. “I’ve had many career highlights – spray tanning Kate Moss was a huge ‘pinch me’ moment – but working with clients who have overcome their cancer journey is up there for me. When you’re a client’s spray tanner, you’re very

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much like their hairdresser; you’re with them through the whole process. That’s the very personal side of this industry and I never take that for granted,” he explains. “Also, those clients who are going through other painful life moments like a divorce, you’re there cheering them up, and that’s why I do what I do.” Working in these different environments, from live TV shows and editorial shoots to travelling to private homes, was one of the other reasons Von Hep launched his self-tan brand – because he was mixing colour corrective make-up with tanning products to get that natural-looking continuity tan for clients. Carrying around the make-up and tanning products he needed to achieve this was making his kit massive – “I was carrying two suitcases sometimes,” he says. “I needed a product that didn’t take up all this space, especially as a spray

Interview

52 tanner you travel a lot, so I created a colour-corrective tan.” If you’re considering launching your own product, Von Hep has some advice on the key factors to consider. “There’s so much competition out there, it is really hard. So, you have to figure out what your USP is – are your products eco-friendly? Are they vegan? Are you communicating to a specific

KEY DATES

demographic? If so, is there a real need there? Think about what you can give

2011 Von Hep is trained in spray tanning by Nichola Joss, then meets MUA Natalya Chew to become the tanner for The X Factor

people that they can’t get already,” he says. But, it’s not all about having a good

2012 Becomes spray tanning expert for Strictly Come Dancing and works with celebs for red-carpet events 2013 Backstage tanning artist at London, Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, and A-list spray tanning expert for the BAFTAs 2014 Travels the world training salon pros in how to apply self-tan perfectly

product, that’s just the foundation to building a successful brand. “A good product makes everything else easier, but you have to consider the other things that come with launching a range – you’ve got to have a soul within your business. Then, the more you ask yourself ‘why?’ during the process, the more you can justify each move,” says Von Hep. “Also, bear in mind that things won’t always work on a first attempt, especially when you’re putting products in testing and stability.”

Future planning I also asked Von Hep how he’s feeling about returning to work post-coronavirus lockdown and, like many in the industry, he’s excited and anxious. “I completely understand the nervousness beauty business owners are feeling at the moment. In week one of lockdown, I put my kit away and haven’t got it out since – it’s surreal,” he says.

“I’ve really missed having that physical connection with clients, but I’ve been taking this time to get organised. I’ve been improving my video-editing skills and looking at my Instagram from a business point of view, thinking, ‘what can I do to make it better?’ I’ve also been checking in with clients regularly, asking them how they’re doing.” Von Hep says now is the perfect time for spray tanners to sort out their back catalogue of work on social media. “Instagram is your book, so make sure it shows that you’ve worked with different skin tones and body types. Also, these posts don’t always need to be pictures; screenshots of reviews clients have left you can be just as effective,” he adds. PB

2015 Starts as spray tanning expert for Netflix series The Crown 2018 Launches Isle of Paradise (IOP) and unveils bodyconfidence and mental-health podcast Wobble with Sarah Powell 2019 Publishes free E-book Get Body Posi and shoots the Isle of Paradise Get Body Posi campaign, encouraging inclusivity in the beauty industry 2020 Global sales of IOP increase 200% during Covid-19 lockdown

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Clockwise from top: Von Hep with DJ Sara Cox; with Ant and Dec at the TV Baftas in 2015; with DJ Annie Mac

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Aesthetic Devices

SET the

tone Electro-muscle stimulation is bang on trend. With a fleet of new devices hitting the market in recent months, we explore the capabilities of the technology and the latest machines available to salons and clinics

lectro-muscle stimulation (EMS) has come a long way since its previous heyday in the ’80s and ’90s. Back then, the muscle-building, fat-reduction technology was usually applied to heavy belts fixed with velcro designed to tone the wearer’s abdominal muscles, which claimed to have the same effects as an intense ab workout. Now, leading manufacturers of non-invasive body-contouring devices have adopted and enhanced the basic concept of EMS to offer patients impressive results with no downtime and minimal to no discomfort during treatment. A 2016 study by Wolfgang Kemmler et al (Effects of Whole-Body Electromyostimulation versus HighIntensity Resistance Exercise on Body Composition and Strength) compared the effects of 16 weeks’ wholebody EMS with high-intensity resistance exercise on

body composition and strength, and observed “comparable or at least similar increases of muscle parameters” between the methods. The study’s authors concluded that EMS can be considered a time-efficient and effective option for people seeking to improve body composition. Since then, many device manufacturers have had their own studies carried out, deonstrating results for a broader range of indications. A study on the Truesculpt Flex device, for example, recorded an average of 30% increase in muscle mass and a modest reduction in fat thickness 12 weeks after a course of up to six treatments, while a study for BTL’s EMSculpt showed an average 19% reduction in fat and 15.8% increase in muscle thickness a month after five to eight sessions. Here’s what some of the aesthetic device brands and distributors have to offer when it comes to EMS.

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Aesthetic Devices

EMSLIM • Distributed by Harley Technologies and manufactured by Dae Yang Medical • Uses high intensity electro-magnetic therapy (HI-EMT) • Uses a specific range of frequencies that doesn’t allow muscles to relax between two consecutive stimulations • Assisted by a physical training programme specially designed to maximise treatment stimulation • Has an optimised water-cooling system to ensure the device can be used effectively for a long period of time.

3D-LIPO POWERSCULPT • Uses high-intensity focused electro-magnetic technology (HIFEM) • Seven different waveforms • Engages 100% of muscle fibre • One 30-minute treatment equivalent to 20,000 crunches or squats • No exercise required during treatment course, though clients advised to maintain a healthy lifestyle with aerobic or cardiovascular exercise • Treats arms, upper and lower abdomen, buttocks, legs and inner thighs • Can be used as a standalone treatment or to accelerate results of other body-contouring devices.

CACI SCULPT • 20 pre-set treatment programmes for slimming, toning, contouring, lymphatic drainage and cellulite • Customisable applications for stomach, bust, arms, hands, legs, thighs and buttocks • Uses “muscle impulse stimulation” in short pulses through body conductive pads, positioned by the therapist • Bio feedback auto adjustment monitors and adjusts the electrical impulses to sync with the client’s heartbeat • Uses electrical impulses, specific frequencies and electrical waveforms to stimulate the trigger point of the muscle, activating muscle fibres to contract.

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Aesthetic Devices

ADVANCED ESTHETICS SOLUTIONS LIPOFIRM PRO • Manufactured by Pollogen • Uses “dynamic muscle activation” (DMA) blended with tripollar radiofrequency and TriLipo technology • Indicated for circumference reduction, cellulite reduction, lymphatic drainage and skin tightening • DMA targets different layers of muscles with electrical current applied directly through non-invasive electrodes, allowing intervals of stimulation and relaxation for effectively elevated muscle workload • Strength, duration and number of contractions can be controlled • Achieves increase in muscle density and volume.

CUTERA TRUSCULPT FLEX • Works with “multi-directional stimulation” (MDS) • Can create personalised treatments based on clients’ individual goals, shape and fitness level • Three treatment modes – prep, tone and sculpt – that replicate intensified twisting, squat and crunch actions • Builds muscle endurance, increases core strength and boosts basal metabolic rate • Can treat eight areas simultaneously.

CYNOSURE STIMSURE • Builds tone and muscle in the abdomen, buttocks and thighs • Delivers up to 24,000 muscle contractions in 20 to 30 minutes • Uses 1.0 tesla per applicator, creating an electromagnetic field that can engage the entire target muscle group • Four pre-set programmes • Clients can be treated through light clothing.

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Aesthetic Devices

BTL EMSCULPT • Developed after technology was shown to have positive results for muscle regeneration among sports players • Uses HIFEM technology to induce supramaximal muscle contractions, building muscle and burning fat • FDA-cleared • Treats abdomen, buttocks, biceps, triceps and calves • Average minimum of four 20 or 30-minute sessions spaced two to three days apart.

INMODE EVOLVE • Hands-free workstation • Treats adipose tissue, tones muscles and remodels skin • Uses bipolar technology to deliver radiofrequency energy and electromagnetic pulses • Treatments can be customised with three pre-set programmes – Tite, Trim and Tone • Multiple hands-free applicators and adjustable belts to maximise clinician’s time – eight for skin remodelling with radiofrequency, six for radiofrequency and tissue vacuum, four for EMS • Refines appearance and strength of target muscle groups.

TESLAFORMER • Uses FMS (functional magnetic stimulation) • More than 50.000 contractions in 30 minutes • 3 tesla power • Approximately 200 dedicated programmes for aesthetics, gynaecology, urology, andrology and physical therapy and pain management • Constant change of waveforms, frequencies and contraction types • Core therapy programme – two applicators on the abs, one for pelvic and one for the back to strengthen and shape the core muscles for better physique and posture • TESLAChair also available for incontinence, with two built-in applicators. professionalbeauty.co.uk

Advertorial

ESLA Former is a medical device using the new FMS (Functional Magnetic Stimulation) technology for muscle strengthening, toning and sculpting the body on areas of the glutes, abs, hamstrings, thighs, calves, arms, back and pelvic

floor. TESLA Former provides pulsed magnetic fields, contracting the muscles through its effect on motor nerves of the muscles on the target site. Tesla Former delivers more than 50,000 pulses in 30 minutes with constant changes in frequency, waveform, and contraction type. This doesn’t allow the targeted muscles to adapt to the treatment, therefore higher muscle growth is achieved and no plateauing effect will be seen.

One other benefit of Tesla Former is although it doesn’t target the fat directly, when the target muscles are contracting they use up the low amount of energy that is stored within them in a short period of time and they start to draw on fat in the targeted area. This allows muscle building and natural, non-invasive body sculpting.

UNIQUE FEATURES:

• More than 50,000 contractions in 30 minutes • Six applicators available (four body applicators and two built into the TeslaChair) • TeslaChair for core muscle strengthening targeting the pelvic floor, back and abs • 24 different phases of muscle contractions in one cycle, constant change of frequency, waveform and type of contractions • 200 treatment protocols (aesthetics, physical therapy, sports rehabilitation and gyneacology) • Alternating applicators using higher energy levels • Three Tesla Power and four Channels Tesla Former comes with the TeslaChair if required. This combination allows targeting of the pelvic floor + back + abs, with four applicators for core therapy. The TeslaChair also helps with Pelvic floor issues such as incontinence problems with two built-in applicators in the chair. AM

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Q&A

Is the BEAUTY

industry

failing

black people?

We talk to Tinu Bello, chief executive of salon Colour Riot Nails in Shoreditch, London, about black representation in beauty, including what needs to change, and her experiences as a black woman working in the sector With your experience, how do you think the beauty industry is failing black people? “I feel like the industry is flawed from the core, which is our education, as there’s no in-depth training on black skin or black hair in the curriculum. When I was at beauty school, we were given kits with everything you needed for the subjects you were studying and the make-up products were for Caucasian skin only. The make-up course was completely tailored to white people and that was really alarming. “The failings start when students enter the industry and that’s where we need to make sure that everyone is catered for – in the imagery, social media posts and PR, right through to the products used, because at the moment black people are just not represented. It’s also about redefining what we call qualified because students leaving school are only educated in Caucasian

skin, so how are they fully qualified? You don’t walk into the industry and there’s only one type of skin you’re going to treat. “It’s just a really narrow way of teaching and an update is long overdue. I feel through re-education and updating the curriculum then things will start to change, the black community will be more represented.”

What are your experiences as a black business woman working within the sector? “I’ve experienced all sorts of challenges. With my nail salon business Colour Riot Nails, most of the challenges have stemmed from recruitment. I feel like there is a stigma attached to black-owned businesses where we’re seen as untrustworthy or like we don’t run our salons properly. I’ve even had a message from someone

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Q&A

68 who was meant to be coming in for an interview who said, ‘I don’t work for people of your colour’. “In reference to my personal career, I’ve always felt like I was passed over when it came to jobs and that is has taken me longer to elevate myself in the industry in comparison to my white counterparts. It just feels like the opportunities are always limited and that feeling stems from black people not being represented in loads of things such as editorial, marketing imagery, and social media feeds. We’re not given that platform. “I’m really blessed to have got where I have, especially landing session work, but on my journey to get there. I found that doors were always being shut in my face, and I never knew why. As a sector, we definitely need to look at how we’re employing and how we’re setting the standards for different pathways into the industry. “Another hard thing is trying to join Fashion Week teams – getting a ‘no’ season after season and knowing it’s due to the colour of your skin because when you look at their team there’s no black people on it. You want the experience but you don’t get the chance. “It’s the same when going to industry awards. I’ve been and I was the only black person there. It’s the worst thing when you walk into a room and there’s no one who looks like you. It’s just a thing of wanting to feel comfortable. If you are a black tech or business owner, please do apply for beauty awards. Let’s represent.”

How can we move forward as an industry to celebrate and amplify black people? “It’s about anyone with a platform looking within their internal structures because only then can you really represent us. If you have no one in your internal structure who is black then it’s almost like out of sight, out of mind. Have us represented so we can help you. “It’s also about re-education. We all need to re-educate ourselves on what’s wrong and what’s right, and not to be rude, but I don’t feel like this is rocket science. Brands need to really listen to their conscience and act accordingly. For example, with social media, make sure you’re giving us the opportunity to shine –

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when we tag your brands in posts, support us, don’t overlook us. We post because we love the brands and we enjoy working with them, so if we can show that love then I feel like it should be reciprocated. “I’m thankful now that brands are holding up their hands and being transparent with it, which is excellent. I just hope after this that we do see true change, that it’s not just something that’s trending. I hope all the energy that’s being portrayed online to support black people is being portrayed offline too. “However, there are certain brands that have been a bit quiet during the Black Lives Matter movement which the community would love to hear from because we use them and stock them in our salons. It would be good to get some sort of support from them.”

What can salons and spas do to make their businesses more inclusive for black people? “It’s about letting the black community know that you cater to us. A lot of businesses don’t portray that, and going forward we need to make that a priority. I would love to book somewhere near my house but that’s just not the case at the moment; I’m always having search to find salons that specialise in black skin and hair. It would be nice to know that I could walk into any salon and all the services would be available to me. “We, as high-street businesses, have to make sure that we’re catering to everyone, so put it in your branding, mention it on your website, stock products made for us and make sure that the team you employ in salon is diverse. “There is a stigma when it comes to employing black people and we need to get rid of that, and that’s only going to happen if you trust us and employ us.” PB

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Salon Reopening

Team EFFORT As salons and spas make plans to reopen once allowed to do so, many employees feel anxious about returning. Eve Oxberry gets some expert advice on how to reassure them about the safety of both their health and their jobs

Share a clear plan “As well as reassuring therapists that you will follow the guidelines and that their safety is paramount, you need to tell them you’ll be looking at the finances too so that they will have a salon to come back to, not only in month one or two but that they’ve got a future with you,” says Sara Shoemark, who owns three Glow Beauty salons in the North West. “Just be positive and in control. You might be feeling overwhelmed with anxiety but try not share that too much with your team. You can share the challenges but they need to know you’re there for them. It’s like a parent role, where the child reflects the parent’s behaviour. If the parent’s in control, the child will feel safe. We might not have a firm date yet but share your plan and let them know you will follow the guidelines and you’re not going to put them in a situation that is unsafe for them or their clients.”

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Salon Reopening

71 Consider the language you use If team members are finding it hard to adjust at first, or perhaps struggled with their mental health during lockdown, approach the topic but do it sensitively, advises Sam Pearce, founder of industry mental health platform Low Ears. “Rather than saying ‘what’s wrong with you?’, which can sound aggressive or nosey, say, ‘what do you need?’,” she suggests. “It’s about changing the language around asking people how they are without overstepping boundaries, because in our industry the boundaries often get blurred – we become a overfamiliar with clients, for example. But if you change your relationship around communication with both your team and your clients, that can really help.”

Take time for training “I’m looking at all the advice that’s out there now so that as soon as we have set guidelines, I will have a really good plan,” adds Shoemark. “Then, I’ll talk to the girls, train them, and make sure they are as well educated as they possibly can be, because it’s our teams that will be talking to our clients; they’re going to be our voice so they need to be fully trained and on-board. “I’ve got a fantastic leadership team as well so they will support one another but I need to make sure that they are confident because when the girls come to them they need to be strong in their responses, so as the salon owner, it’s all down to me really and I’ll take that responsibility.”

Ease them in gently if you can “I think we all miss the interaction and the closeness that you get working in a salon but it’s going to feel strange at first going back,” says Tammy Koslowski, owner of Naf Salon in Glasgow. “Going from not seeing anyone to seeing maybe five clients a day on your own could be quite taxing for anyone, no matter how prepared you are with all your PPE and everything else. We have a team catch up every Friday and recently we’ve joked that we’ll all be socially awkward when we go back to work – the conversation might be dry for a while or you’ll just be saying everything that’s been in your head for the last few months, so people might need a bit of time to adjust.”

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Salon Reopening

5 Get expert help “Your employees are likely to need extra reassurance that they are working in a safe environment,” says business coach Liz McKeown. “The crisis does not remove your obligation to provide training to staff on how to minimise health and safety risks, or the obligation to keep accident records. “All of this could become overwhelming – don’t let this happen. Accept this is not your area of expertise. Health and safety is a minefield that’s too difficult to navigate alone. Invest in expert professional support, so you have confidence that you and your business are meeting all the

criteria required. Committing to a health-and-safety investment will automatically instil confidence in both

Be honest about finances

employees and clients.” Shoemark also advises taking advantage of all the

because, yes, we’ve had grants available and help with furlough but that money doesn’t last

support available. “There are so many industry experts like Professional Beauty and Babtac, which have been putting out loads of information and advice,” she says. “I’m also in touch with my suppliers, L’Oreal Professional and Gerrard International, who have bene amazing, and with [employment law specialist] David Wright to make we’ve got the right contracts in place. There are great people out there, so we just need to make the most of all that.”

very long,” says Shoemark. “We need to explain those things so everybody understands the financial pressure we will be under. So, we’re going to have to re-cost our treatments taking into account any changes due to social distancing and PPE. If we want to survive, we have to charge accordingly. We’re going to have to charge what it costs us to do a treatment, with some profit there, in order to move forward and the team needs to understand that. “Shifts might need to change regularly so we may have to open more late nights, or maybe seven days a week. I’m not saying no to anything yet,” she adds. “My team know that sometimes I have to make decisions that I’m not keen to make, but I make them so that we’ve got a future. There’s no point opening your doors and carrying on as you were doing before because it won’t work, so if you have to make changes, the team needs to understand and commit to thse; just as you commit to protect them.”

Factor in more turnaround time “I think we all recognise that, moving forward, there’s going to be longer turnaround times for treatments in order to ensure safeguarding and hygiene, but time needs to be factored in for the therapist too,” says Pearce. “After they’ve done a hands-on treatment, there needs to be time for them to wash their hands all the way up to the elbows and drain it off as a way of cleansing from physical contact, but also from verbal communication. It’s about recognising that the therapist’s wellbeing is as important as the client’s experience, without compromising on anything, and that means factoring in time.” She adds: “While this year has been incredibly challenging, it’s allowing us to make changes that we may not have had the confidence to before.” professionalbeauty.co.uk

“It’s important to be open with your team

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Treatment Pricing

The

loveof

MONEY Business coach Jessica Crane explains how to successfully introduce a price increase in your salon post-coronavirus lockdown with this four-step plan

s beauty salons across the UK gear up to reopen their doors to clients once coronavirus lockdown restrictions are lifted, there’s never been a better time to assess and get to grips with your business numbers. You need to work out your profit percentage on every treatment to ensure you can keep your business afloat during this time where social distancing measures mean you can only see a certain number of customers per day, followed by the extra added cost of essential PPE. Salon consultant Jessica Crane reveals her four-step plan to successfully introducing a price increase in your salon post-lockdown and how to communicate this with clients.

Get into the right mindset

When you’re embarking on implementing a price increase, there are two critical steps that you need to master, the first being the mindset element. What feelings come up when you think about doing this? Do you feel resistant? Nervous? Happy? Worried? It’s important to figure out if it is positive or negative thoughts that are creeping in because you need to feel confident about your increase so your team get onboard with it too,” says Crane.

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Treatment Pricing

76 “Next, for you to feel empowered, knowledgeable and confident in your price increase strategy, you’ve got to

• When do I need to increase them? “During the past few months of lockdown, your

know what money blocks might be putting you off doing what is essential for the business. A price increase has

business finances will have drastically changed from before, so you need to make sure you’re covering all your

absolutely nothing to do with what your clients can or can’t afford, it has everything to do with your own fear about

outgoings – bills, loans, deferred bills, credit cards, stock bills, payroll, etc. Hopefully, during this time of enforced

what they think. You’re not there to judge what money clients have to spend, they are perfectly capable of making that decision themselves. “There’s no denying that due to the coronavirus situation some clients might have lost their jobs or be on a reduced income. However, if people are making appointments with your salon it is because they’re choosing to – they can afford to come. When you reopen, it’s important to focus

closure, the latter has been covered for

THE PROFIT EQUATION: business + stock + VAT/tax + your worth (wage) + profit = treatment cost

on the hundreds of clients who are happy and accommodating to your price changes. Do not focus on that one person who has commented negatively because it will have a knock-on effect on your confidence as you move forward.”

Understand why you’re making the change

“The second part of doing a price increase is figuring out the how. It’s about really knowing your numbers inside-out because educating yourself on this is going to be the key to you and your team implementing it,” she explains. There are three key questions Crane says you should be able to answer before you execute your price increase: • How much do I need to increase my treatment prices by? • Why do I need to increase them?

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most of you by the Government’s furlough scheme, but some may have been topping salaries up with that extra 20%,” she adds. “You need to reassess your costs from scratch to make sure you are factoring in all these changes to figure out what your treatment prices will need to be when you’re back in salon. Checking your

numbers is something you should do regularly, examining them monthly to make sure everything is in check.”

Work out what your profit needs to be

To make sure you’re in the black when you reopen, Crane advises using this profit equation formula to assess what your price increase needs to be going forward to cover your current business costs: business + stock + VAT/tax + your worth (wage) + profit = service/treatment cost. “Let’s start with the first part of the formula – business. You should know your business costs, every output from bills to buying tea and coffee supplies, so you understand what it costs you to open your doors every day. You need to know this because if you’re going to do a 60-minute treatment, then you need to know how much to factor in for the business costs for this; for

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Treatment Pricing

example, electricity and heating,” Crane explains. “The next element to consider is stock. Product costs go

then you won’t make any. A profit percentage in your treatments will ensure that your business is profitable

up and down all the time. For example, you might have changed product houses this year or brought in a brand’s

whatever the situation,” says Crane. “I teach my clients to think about the bigger picture

luxury range, so your bill would have gone up. You need to include the stock you’re using in treatment in your menu prices. “The VAT/tax element of this equation is really important to include too, and it also explains why you can’t look at the salon down the road for ideas on how much to do your price increase by, because your businesses are completely different. For example, you might not be VAT registered, whereas the salon down the road could be on a 20% VAT rate, so to use them as a benchmark is like comparing apples with pears.” Next, Crane says to factor in your worth – your wage for performing that treatment – including commission, before doing the last, and usually most forgotten element of the equation, profit. “I speak to so many clients who haven’t been factoring in profit, but if you don’t charge for profit

and then reverse engineer the whole process. If you want your salon to make £100,000 profit this year, then what do you need to do per day to reach that goal? Figure out how much profit each team member would need to make per month, then break that down to per week and then per day, so you understand what turnover you would need to make daily to achieve that goal, then adjust your prices accordingly. That’s how you reverse-engineer profit.”

Don’t forget about the added expense of PPE

“Sourcing PPE for staff can be expensive so you need to factor in this cost. The other thing you will need to consider is that you may only have half the trade you usually have coming in and out of your business when you reopen due to social-distancing measures. This means you’re going to be paying your staff a wage bill for potentially more whitespace in their column,” says Crane. “Therefore, you may want to look at a temporary surcharge on top of your price increase because of these extra costs. The best way to do it is just to communicate clearly and honestly with clients so they thoroughly understand that this charge is for extra cleaning, PPE and everything else that’s required to work in a safe and socially distanced way, and as soon as these restrictions are lifted prices will go back to X. “So, you may choose to have a temporary price increase, or you might have a permanent increase plus the surcharge. Choose what’s right for your business and your numbers. Remember, profit is not a luxury, it is essential to survival and gives you choices in business.” PB

Jessica Crane is a salon business and money coach. Watch her full webinar on “When is the best time to introduce a price increase in your salon” on PB’s YouTube channel.

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Advertorial

Customer Service

The

NEW CLIENT

journey As beauty salons and spas prepare to reopen, we face new challenges in making the customer experience special while limiting contact. Kieran Read asks the experts what this new normal will look like

lthough restrictions are gradually easing and businesses are making plans to reopen, the beauty and spa industry faces a unique set of challenges. Whereas some industries can implement measures to eliminate touching or interaction with others completely, the majority of our services are completely dependent on a closeness with the client, both physically and emotionally. “The emotional impact coronavirus has had on humans is as strong as the physical effects,” says Yasmin Teimoori, chief executive and co-founder of Morning Glory Health Club and Medical Spa in Dubai, where doors have been open since the end of May, and a new model of customer service has been embraced. It raises questions about how clients, both new and old, will respond upon reopening here in the UK. Will they rush to receive the treatments they missed over lockdown, or will apprehension mean they’re slower to return? With careers dedicated to making others feel better, mapping out how different the experience will

be when salons, spas and clinics are back up is crucial. The entire industry is at a turning point, so it’s time to re-evaluate practices. As salons and spas prepare to reopen, we’ve spoken with a number of industry experts about what to expect from this new era of customer service, and what you can do to ensure that everyone visiting your establishment feels not only safe, but content and relaxed too.

The safety message Undoubtedly, the biggest concern on everyone’s mind going forward will be safety. It’s one thing for your business to be following Government regulations but another to let your clients know exactly why and how you plan on keeping them up. This could mean small changes. “When using things like disposable towels, I’ve asked my staff to show clients that everything is individually packed, and to open the packaging in front of them,” says Sue Ali, owner of Endermospa UK in Loughton.

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Customer Service

82 Meanwhile, Angela Bartlett, managing director at mystery shopping service Hidden Beauty UK and owner

great the spa was when they went with their mum or friends, for example. It’s a really powerful substitute

of Sensoria salons in Cheshire, explains that taking it back to the absolute basics and being completely

for people going out and telling their story and creates a sense of community,” says Dave

transparent shows honesty: “Do you remember when you were at college and you had to inform your clients

Courteen, founder and managing director of national chain Mosaic Spa and Health Clubs.

that you were going to wash your hands before starting the treatment? That’s not such a bad thing to bring back,” she suggests. Most salons and spas have always prioritised hygiene and safety, so much of your messaging may involve reminding clients of that, suggests Adam Chatterley, chair of the UK Spa Association: “We’ve always been an industry that’s had incredible hygiene procedures in place but, because we want people to feel relaxed,

We’re going to have to be even warmer through the masks, and use a lot more of our own personalities to ensure guests understand the energy we’re transmitting

we’ve kept them hidden. Rather than saying, ‘these are all the new things we’re doing,’ it’s now time to say, ‘did you know, this is everything that’s always been going on?’” It’s up to you to put your efforts front and centre and Bartlett suggests spreading the message outside of your salon, spa or clinic walls and responding to individual client concerns. “Keep in touch with your clients regularly in the way that best suits your business – text message, phone call, emails, newsletters,” says Bartlett. “But make it a two-way communication process and really listen to what your clients need from you.” An efficient and effective way of doing this can be by using your loyal clients as ambassadors. “We’re going to post 10-second videos of people talking about how

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Accounting for client numbers will certainly be a challenge when reopening, and will vary business to business, so the only sure way of being prepared is to have a smooth and wellorganised booking process in place. “The initial impression made is the lasting one, so an easy system and good operator courtesy generally sets the scene,” explains Bartlett. Although technology will be

pivotal in streamlining the booking process, it’s important not to lose that personal touch. “People are going to need reassurance,” says Courteen. “There will be lots of questions and concerns regarding safety and they’re not going to get that through online booking. You need to be able to offer that through a conversation over the phone.”

Spotlight on service Most of the time, delivering great customer service actually coincides with the most hygienic practices, such as keeping to time when conducting treatments to ensure no cross-overs in schedules, or opening doors for clients to reduce touch points. “I’m a great believer in just pure, genuine hospitality,” adds Emma-Jane North, spa director at Wyboston Lakes Resort in Bedfordshire, discussing attitudes to adopt when performing treatments. “We’re going to have to be even warmer through the masks, and use a lot more of our own personalities to ensure guests understand the energy we’re transmitting.” This optimistic demeanor should always extend to the conversations you’re having. “Brief your staff to stay away from the doom and gloom, which some clients will have a tendency to talk about. Steer it towards positivity, but make sure to be tactful and smart about doing so,” advises Bartlett.

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Customer Service

84 Ultimately, embracing healthy living and mental wellbeing, which much of the industry made important strides towards prior to Covid-19, will help ease the sense of anxiety. “It’s so interesting how all of the things that we talk about – wellness, exercise, being outside, mindfulness, meditation – are now on the minds of the general public,” says Chatterley. “From that perspective, it’s a really great opportunity for the industry to be at the forefront of that.”

Tailored treatments There’s no set way of dealing with your guests, because everyone’s reaction to this challenging time will be different. That’s why it’s essential you never adopt a blanket approach to your clients, and instead respect their individuality. For some, especially those in “at risk” categories, this will require extra precautions and sensitivity. There are many ways this can be achieved. Ali, for example, plans to book her most vulnerable clients into a dedicated morning slot so that less overlap occurs and special care can be given. For other clients, however, a firmer attitude may be required to ensure the comfort of all. “It’s all about education,” says Bartlett. “Pick up on those clients that have a tendency to be late and stress how important it is to stick to very strict treatment timing so that there are no dangerous crossovers.” “Upon arrival, we’re going to have a very clear banner that explains our commitment to the client and all things we’ll be doing in relation to Covid-19,” shares Courteen. “It’ll then explain what we expect from the client. If you’re unwell, then don’t come to the spa; always maintain social distancing; be respectful. We have to make sure there is some form of personal responsibility.” For the most part, clients will likely share your concern in keeping everyone safe and your messaging should include appreciation of that, and recognition of those clients who have stuck around. New clients may be harder to come by, so proving your value to those prior relationships will be key. “Put anyone who has bought a voucher, or has been supportive in any way, on your VIP list and give them the opportunity to get the first appointments. Maybe extend the vouchers for a year, or swap out the equivalent price for products,” Bartlett suggests.

PPE. Although for some it may be necessary to increase treatment prices, it’s important to factor in the impact this could have on customer satisfaction. “Remember that the cost of PPE is going to come out of your profits so if you’re happy with that and it’s not going to impact your life then fine, but you really need to add it all up because if you find you’re at a loss then you do need to add those charges to your treatments,” says Kerry Beavis, owner of home-based The Revive Co and founder of membership club the Affluent Solo Therapist Club. “People understand price increases are necessary and most don’t question it; just give them some notice and tell them why. If your costs go up, usually so should your prices.” However, Ali says she’s not going to raise prices. “I want to focus on my existing clients and show loyalty to them, even offering them a reasonable discount in the form of a gift with a purchase or samples. I want them to remember how we treated them during hard times,” she adds. Although it’ll be challenging, it’s important to consider the coming months as an opportunity. Now, when people need an escape from the everyday the most, is the time to show how accommodating an industry we truly are. “I’m a firm believer that every cloud has a silver lining and there are some amazing opportunities for us to make a change for the better in our industry,” says Bartlett. “I truly believe we’ll come out of the other side stronger with an even more caring and professional image.” PB

You really need to add it all up because if you find you’re at a loss then you do need to add those charges to your treatments

Price it up Another common issue will be recouping costs, especially given the added time and money that will likely be needed to cover new safety precautions and

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Hair & Beauty Salons, Barbers & Freelancers

Promotional Feature

PROTECTING

staff and

clients

Getting back to business after being in lockdown for so long will be both exciting and challenging. The NHBF explains what salons will need to think about, from health and safety issues to employment law changes

he National Hair & Beauty’s (NHBF) free guide to reopening can be downloaded at nhbf.co.uk/ back-to-business-guide. Non-members will need to register on the NHBF website to download the guide: nhbf.co.uk/join. “The guide is under continuing review to ensure it reflects the latest official Government advice about how to protect staff and clients, and the health and safety measures you should have in place in your salon, including the need for risk assessments,” says NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall. The NHBF’s FAQs and updates can be found at its coronavirus information hub: nhbf.co.uk/coronavirus and on social media: @nhbfsocial.

Make marketing work for you “Getting your marketing right will be more important then ever when you’re back in business,” says NHBF marketing director Tori Priestley. “And the good news is that a lot of very effective marketing can be carried out for free or at a low cost. “For example, it will be important to make the most of your social media accounts, e-marketing, website and online business listings. You can also step up your retail activity and make plans to enter competitions and awards, which can create some great publicity if you are a finalist or winner.” Find out more about how to market your salon, including getting your branding and prices right at nhbf.co.uk/back-to-business-marketing.

Employment law post-lockdown “As well as the new employment law that has come into force this year, you’ll also need to understand changes that have come into force due to the coronavirus outbreak,” says NHBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard.

“One example is the new rule that allows employees to carry over up to 20 days of annual leave (full-time employees) into the next two annual leave years.” Find out more about new employment laws at nhbf.co.uk/ new-employment-law. NHBF members can also download the free in-depth guide to employment law for salons that are getting back to business at nhbf.co.uk/back-to-businessemployment-guide.

Mental health in your salon “Financial worry, emotional problems and anxiety about friends and family have taken their toll during lockdown,” says Hall. “That’s why it’s more important than ever to promote good mental health to your team in the salon.” Find out what steps you can take to support your employees as you reopen for business at nhbf.co.uk/ back-to-business-mental-health. “Don’t forget to take care of yourself too,” adds Hall. “We’ve heard from many salon owners who are planning to create a healthier work-life balance once their business is up and running again. Our blog post at nhbf.co.uk/back-to-business-work-smarter explores some of the steps you can take to achieve this.”

The NHBF For less than 80p a day, the NHBF will work with you to support your beauty business while keeping you safe, legal and up to date with all the latest business laws. Join the NHBF before the end of July 2020 and quote PBJ25 to get £25 off your membership fee. Join online at nhbf.co.uk/ join Or call us on 01234 831965 professionalbeauty.co.uk

Nail Notes

Master

Instagram to come back WITH A

bang

As salons and nail techs gear up to reopen their businesses, Naf! owner Tammy Koslowski shares nine tips for using Instagram to keep clients engaged and create a buzz on your comeback 1.

Test and analyse to get ahead

“If your focus when you come back is to grow your social, you’re going to be doing a lot more than you did before lockdown, so test now,” says Tammy Koslowski, founder of Naf! Salon in Glasgow and Instagram pro. “Doing chatty Instagram Lives with another tech or beauty therapist is a really good way to test different times of day because you can see who’s online and watching, so try different slots and see when your followers are actually on their phones. “You can test all the time and look at your analytics to see what’s done well but remember it could be the time, type of content, your caption or what hashtags you’ve used. If you’ve been active on your Insta Stories that day, a grid post will most likely do better than if you’ve not been active, so there are a lot of factors to consider.”

Start scheduling now

“If you use a scheduling programme, you can test very easily. At Naf!, we use Sked Social, which is a paid service. There are free ones out there but we’ve tried a lot and that one works for us. You can set a queue and post to your feed and stories really

smoothly and see all your analytics easily,” says Koslowski. “A scheduler is going to be so helpful once you’re back at work because you can pre-set the dates and times of every post and story so it helps you stay consistent without having to constantly be on your phone. “If you’ve got loads of nail photos and you want to post every day, for example, you can just spend a few minutes scheduling them for the full week. If you’re working alone then that’s even more useful. “Automate what you can without taking the heart out of it. It’s OK to automate replies on your DMs to say ‘I’ll get back to you when I can’, but do try to set aside some time to have those conversations and get back to people. In terms of making your channels look good and keeping them consistent, though, scheduling really is the only way to free up your life.”

Treat your salon or yourself as a brand

“You can put up beautiful nail pictures but it’s the person posting them that people really buy into. I didn’t come from a salon background. I’d done session work and friends’ nails but never worked in a salon

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Nail Notes

88 works on our main feed is pictures of nails, so we did some throwbacks of nail art we loved in the past to keep that feed going,” says Koslowski.“On our Stories, we’ve been keeping people engaged with our teams. Every weekend we’ve asked one of our techs to pick their favourite nail styles from over the time that they’ve been employed by Naf!. “For Mental Health Awareness Week, we spotlighted local charities we’ve worked with in the past. That had great feedback from clients and a lot of shares from other local businesses. Posts where we’ve been connecting with other people have done very well too. “It’s been nice to see everyone sharing the reopening guidelines we’ve had as well because it feels like people are united. Posts that celebrate people coming together get a lot of engagement for us.”

environment originally, so when I opened Naf!, I took the approach to our social channels of using them like you would for a brand instead of a salon account, which might usually have the sole purpose of getting bums on seats,” says Koslowski. “When we opened five years ago, there wasn’t really a salon like this in Glasgow or nearby, so we had a different environment to show on Instagram, which got attention, and we chose to do new looks so that helped us, posting original photos. “Clients want to see what you’re up to behind the scenes and we’ve always shown that too. I know that the word ‘authentic’ gets thrown around a lot but I think authenticity is the best way to grow your brand.”

Continue the brand across the team

Build up an online network

“Lockdown has given the opportunity for people who have had their head down working to get out there and virtually meet the people that inspired them. I’ve really enjoyed watching the whole beauty community come together during the pandemic,” says Koslowski. “Networking is just as important online as in real life. If someone comments on your photos, comment back. If someone DMs you, reply. If they react to one of your stories, just reply saying ‘thanks so much, how have you been getting on during lockdown?’ It might not be visible to everyone on the internet but it’s all networking. “Think about maybe doing a giveaway for when you reopen. I’ve seen a lot of people link up with local practitioners, so a solo nail tech might link with a hairdresser, someone doing brows, and someone else

“There’s a salon in Edinburgh called Buff Concept Store that has amazing branding. They’ve got their main salon account, then all the techs have their own accounts with the Buff name; for example, @ buffcsjen. They all have the same logo on their accounts, which looks really slick,” says Koslowski. “At Naf!, we’ve got a big team so we decided to give each tech a hashtag. Clients can follow their tech’s hashtag to keep up with them, but it gives our techs a bit of privacy. They’re employees rather than self-employed so we want to protect them from things like messages about appointments, and hashtags are a good way to advertise techs’ work without tagging their personal accounts.”

Tap into your client’s current mood

“When lockdown started, we decided the focus shouldn’t be tons of nail photos, because everyone’s upset that they can’t get their nails done. But we also knew that the only thing that

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Nail Notes

doing tans and offer a package. That’s a great way to do a giveaway because someone might be entering the giveaway via their hairdresser, who they follow, but if they win they’ll be coming to see you, getting a great service and telling everyone about it. And because it’s a competition, you’re obviously asking entrants to share it on their socials so that’s a great way to get new clients and followers.”

Create a buzz for reopening

“I recently saw a video giving a tour of a salon and telling clients what the team’s done to change things for safety on reopening and I think that’s a brilliant idea,” says Koslowski. “Videos do so well on social because they’re good for your Instagram Stories and grid, and you can put them on IGTV and Facebook too. For video, we use a programme called Inshot, which is £11.99 per year. There are free versions out there, I just like this one because it’s really easy to make a video just with clips that you’ve got on your phone, and you can resize it for all different social platforms too. “Just make sure that the information is set in stone for you first, because once you put these guidelines up on social and say ‘this is how we are going to operate’, you have to stick to that. “It’s going to be amazing when everyone comes back to the salon but there will be people that are very nervous and those guidelines that you put out might be what has made them feel comfortable to come to you, so if you do stray from them you need to be aware that you might open yourself up to criticism.”

Use different formats

“Not everyone takes in information in the same way, which is something I’ve learned by working with a team. So, you could write very informative posts but some people still won’t absorb that information. You need to make sure you’re covering all bases. So, with the example of sharing your reopening plans, I think definitely have video, some text and an infographic that you can post on your feed.”

Don’t beat yourself up about skipping posts

“We’ve been through a really traumatic time so if you haven’t been posting on social and desperately trying to keep your business going – well, your business hasn’t been going at the moment, so it’s fine. The other side of all this creativity is that some people feel a bit left behind, like they’re not doing enough,” says Koslowski. “You might have all these great ideas but think, ‘I’ve not posted for a while so if I post now it might seem weird unless I say something really important’ but you don’t need to explain. “When you do introduce a new structure for posting though, stick to it and be consistent, because your followers will get used to that frequency.” PB

Tammy Koslowski is owner and founder of Naf! Salon in Glasgow, product brand Naf! Stuff and Naf! School. She’s a session tech and has more than 122K followers for Naf! Salon’s Instagram account.

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93 Operational Advice

Grow YOUR

retail by 30%

Now is the time to create a plan to boost your salon retail sales on reopening. Busi Chamboko shares five tips for increasing retail by 30%

hat are your plans for your beauty salon post-Covid-19? When you finally reopen, you really want to hit the ground running, but some clients may still feel nervous about coming in for appointments. That’s why you should put a strong focus on scaling up the retail side of your business, as well as your treatment column. Retail sales can generate a limitless source of income for your salon, but to do this successfully, you really need to educate your clients and be confident.

1. Swot up on product knowledge If you’re not passionate about your products, this will transfer to the client and they won’t be interested either. A lack of passion is often derived from a lack of knowledge or confidence in the brands you work with, so make sure your team members are well trained, and keep it this way with regular in-house training. Many product houses have developed virtual training during the coronavirus lockdown so take full advantage of this by enrolling your staff.

2. Don’t worry about clients’ pockets, worry about your own A common mistake salon owners make is assuming that clients won’t buy their products based on the price, but it is a loss for you and a loss for them if you fail to offer them the opportunity. You don’t know their spending power. If they’re not spending with you, then they’re spending with someone else on the quest for a solution. Your retail and services need to be driven together. Don’t give your client half the package.

3. Find the talent within your business When you finally reopen, identify the beauty therapists who are most committed to making a sale, and give them the column with the most potential for retailing. It’s no use giving your luxury facial treatments to your least

motivated therapist, while the more motivated person is on brow shaping and lash tints.

4. Consultation is key This is where the selling is done – where you plant the seed – so you need to hone these skills before you reopen. Take your team through the key elements of a good consultation as a refresher. You can even do this on a Skype call before you get back into the salon. Tell them why they need to be thorough and listen well, and the importance of being clear in how they address the client throughout. Create a consultation checklist for your team of what they need to cover with every client – how the client can maintain the results at home, the treatment plan for their next visit, and getting them to touch and feel the products you recommended in order to instil a sense of ownership.

5. Be brave, close the sale Push past the fear of rejection. After discussing your recommendations, your therapists need to be direct and ask the client if they would like to take the products home. Keep eye contact when mentioning the price and ask for the sale. It’s all part of the client journey and you could do some face-to-face or online role playing with your team to help boost their confidence. A far greater percentage of clients are disappointed when they’re not offered aftercare advice and solutions beyond the treatment room than those who don’t want to buy, and this contributes to them losing faith in you as a solution-oriented professional. Those clients will seek that advice elsewhere. PB

Busi Chamboko is a skincare specialist and owner of Second Skin Therapy in Battersea, London. She has 15 years’ industry experience.

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4T Medical SkinrePen microneedling Aesthetic product supplier 4T Medical has added

reducing downtime. Compared to other needling

microneedling to the roster of treatments it can provide to salons with its SkinrePen. The German-made,

devices, 4T Medical says SkinrePen is minimally invasive, with no chance of producing lacerations or

patented and CE-marked microneedling device is designed for optimum client comfort during treatment,

overlapping needle insertions in the skin. It has a specially shaped needle cartridge for linear insertions, while the needles are made from surgical stainless steel. This allows for an even treatment pattern with needles in rows of five or nine. The treatment delivery method is designed to allow for wound closure 12 to 15 minutes after treatment, reducing swelling and redness. The device can produce up to 150 insertions per second at 150Hz, which means anaesthetic is rarely required, says the brand. 4T Medical recommends charging between £150- £300 for a 15-minute treatment, depending on individual factors. Contact the distributor on 01223 440285

making ADVANCES

Some new, advanced skin and body treatments are launched to help salons and clinics offer efficient and impressive results

Gharieni Celliss treatment Spa equipment manufacturer Gharieni has collaborated with medical diagnostic imaging company DMS Group to create the Celliss bodycontouring treatment method. Shaped like a treatment couch, the new device was developed to aid slimming, cellulite reduction and toning of the buttocks, stomach and thighs. The technology combines mechanical percussion with a suction action to reduce the volume of fat cells and stretch and mobilise the skin to release pressure at the same time. It’s completely hands-free and fitted with 96 nozzles for simultaneous action on a body surface area of more than 5,000cm2. Celliss has a touch-screen interface where treatment programmes can be personalised and doesn’t require any therapist operation once in action, meaning therapists are then able to carry out treatments such as

nail services, facials and massage therapies on the client while the device is working through a treatment programme. Gharieni recommends charging £45 for a 30-minute session. Contact the brand on +49 (0)28 41883 0050 professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

97 Wagner International Due to the outbreak of Covid-19, Wagner has turned its expertise to helping businesses protect themselves and their clients against the spread of the virus, creating the Universal 690 Flexio Sprayer. The disinfecting machine is designed for interior and exterior use, is suitable for water-based disinfectant, provides uniform coverage on all conventional materials, and has variable air volume regulation for the handling of materials of different viscosities. Also comes as a separable gun for fast attachment changes and simple cleaning. £169.99 (inc VAT) 01327 368410 wagner-group.com

Clean

START

Products and equipment to help salons and spas to reopen safely and protect their staff and clients are among this month’s launches

Gharieni Group The new Gharieni Plexi Shield is a protective barrier for use during facials. It can be attached to the metal frame under the headrest of Gharieni spa tables series MLW and MO1, ensuring maximum leg space for the therapists while working on the head section. The direct connection to the frame also makes additional height adjustment unnecessary. The product comes with optional built-in LED lights, that are integrated in the plexiglass, and can be detached and stowed away easily without taking up much space. Trade: from €540 (+€360 for illuminated version) +49 (0) 2841 883 0050 gharieni.com

Kaeso The Kaeso Protect range of three anti-bacterial cleansers contain 70% alcohol to protect hands against 99% of bacteria. Products are: Protect Moisturising Hand Wash; No Rinse Hand Cleanser and Refreshing Hygiene Spray. All are formulated with essential oils, including bergamot and lemongrass and have a fresh, citrus fragrance. Trade: from £3.65 to £3.95 0141 814 6572 (Professional Beauty Systems) kaeso.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

New Products

98 Oritree Available from July, Oritree’s Dual Digital Wax Heater (1000cc & 500cc) has two independently controlled heating chambers, meaning two different types of wax can be warmed at the same time, using the digital temperature controls. It’s designed to be a complete waxing workstation and features compartments designed to house disposables such as strips and spatulas, meaning everything required for treatment is easily kept to therapist’s designated section of a salon, to aid with social distancing. Trade: £74.95 0845 450 480 (Hive) hiveofbeauty.com

CND CND has launched Shellac Wear Extender Base Coat, designed to extend the wear of gel polish for up to three weeks’ wear while improving nail appearance and creating an even nail surface by smoothing imperfections and ridges. The product has been formulated to remove in eight to 10 minutes with no nail damage and is packaged with a curve-hugging brush. It’s designed to be used with CND Shellac’s Colour Coat, Top Coat and LED Lamp. Trade: £13.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Gellux There are two new collections from Salon System’s gel nail brand, Gellux. The first is an extension of the Builder Gel line, with four new colours: Light Pink, Light Natural, Rose Pink and Cool White. The gels are for building, extending and strengthening nails and can be used as a builder base under gel polish, and with tips or forms to create enhancements. Festival Edit is Gellux’s summer collection and features eight pastels and brights in pinks, red, purples, corals and green, with names including Mud & Music, Headliner and Glamping. Trade: £11.95 per Builder Gel or Festival Edit shade 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com

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PJS Direct There are two new spa chair launches from PJS Direct. The 903 Lux and 903 Base Spa massage chairs have the same appearance but have different massage and operating systems. The 903 Lux has fourstage massage, including hacking, tapping, cupping and multi massage, whereas the lower-priced 903 Base model has a rolling massage feature. The 903 Lux has an electric chair positioning function, while the 903 Base is manual. Both have a compact base with LED lights, whirlpool jet and assisted power drain. Trade: £1,595 for the 903 Lux; £1,295 for 903 Base 01634 565005 beautysalonequipment.co.uk

New Products

100 Dermaco DermaCo’s new Countertop Screen Protector is made from transparent, rigid acrylic and aimed at salon reception areas and nail stations. The barrier has been branded and designed by DermaCo and built locally. Dimensions are 1000mm width x 650mm height and minimum 4mm thick. It has a semi-circular hatch measuring 220mm x 120mm. It is designed to be easy to assemble and to help techs and customers feel at ease during manicures, or during payment at reception. Trade: £82.50 01666 503570 dermacoskincare.co.uk

Artistic Nail Design Artistic Nail Design has launched summer collection Cool As It Gets. The line includes six new shades; pink Bubblegum Is Poppin’; light purple Sorbae All Day; light grey Scoop, There It Is!; teal Anything Is Popsicle; coral Summer Stunner; and yellow/orange Sunshine Tan Line. Each is available as a Colour Gloss gel-polish, Colour Revolution lacquer or Perfect Dip powder. Trade: £16.95 per gel-polish; £5.95 per lacquer; £12.95 per powder 020 8238 6300 (Louella Belle) louellabelle.co.uk

Footlogix The specialist pedicure brand has created two retail kits, designed for salons to sell direct to clients before reopening, then display and continue to sell from their retail areas once back up and running. The kits are Smooth & Fresh, containing a 125ml Rough Skin Formula and a 125ml Shoe Fresh Deodorant Spray; and Day & Night, featuring a DD Cream Mousse and a Daily Maintenance Formula, both 125ml. Trade: £15.40 for Smooth & Fresh; £16.90 for Day & Night 020 8238 6300 (Louella Belle) louellabelle.co.uk

HI Research New to the market, Health International (HI) Research develops legally registered cannabisbased products and treatments. Its two brands are: MotherSage, a skincare line with products including CBD Body Butter and Bath Salts; and Hempe, for sore muscles and aggravated skin, which includes CBD Hot and CBD Ice Muscle and Joint Gels. For both, HI partnered with ICCT, a research company based in the Czech Republic. Trade: £7.69– £13.99 for Mother Sage range; £7.19– £8.59 for Hempe 07766 380570 hiresearchltd.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

102 BC Softwear BC Softwear has developed a triple layer, washable face mask. The outer and inner layers are made from 100% natural cotton, while the middle layer is a protective synthetic fabric, which provides breathability and protection from moisture and droplets. This mask is designed to help provide a level of air filtration. It’s pleated to help create shape and aid comfort. BC Softwear can create bespoke colour-matched masks and branded masks for salons and spas with a minimum order of 3,000. Trade: £2.40 each; pack of 100 units: £1.95 each 0845 210 4000 bcsoftwear.co.uk

Mesotech

Spongellé

CombO3 is the new air sanitiser and purifier

There are two new collections from Gerrard

from Mesotech, designed to control odours and infections in enclosed spaces, destroying viruses, bacteria, mould and fungi. It produces controlled ozone that attacks the compounds by oxidising and deactivating them. Ozone is converted to oxygen at the end of the cycle. The device has a touchscreen-programmable operating system. Trade: £2,800 0118 962 7179 mesoskinline.co.uk

International’s massaging shower sponge retail brand Spongellé. Botanica is a line of four butterfly-shaped sponges infused with nourishing extracts of rosehip, hibiscus and green tea. It’s available in either lavender, petitgrain, tobacco flower or rose. Meanwhile, the Flower Child range is formulated with extracts of yuzu, edelweiss and vetiver and comes in three fragrance options, iris, rose or hyacinth. Trade: £6.95 per Botanica sponge; £5.50 per Flower Child sponge 020 8381 7793 gerrardinternational.com

Light Elegance The Come On Over kit is designed to simplify the use of Light Elegance’s Hard Gels and includes three builder gels, three colour gels, prep and finishing products and a brush. Also new from the brand is the summer 2020 Nautical Collection. Colours include Ahoy There, Matey!, a soft cherry red; All Hands on Deck, a deep cream purple; Anchors Away; a light cobalt blue; Man Overboard, a warm pink; Shore Thing, a natural beige; and What’s Happening, Captain?, a carnation coral. Trade: £76.45 for Nautical collection, or £15.45 for individual shades; £85.45 for Come On Over kit 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

2020 RELIEF FUND We urgently need your help to build signi cant funds to enable us to support professionals in the hair and beauty industry who are facing sudden hardship. Please give what you can today. Together we can get through this. justgiving/campaign/relie und

Registered Charity number 1166298 T: 01234 831888 E: info@hairandbeautycharity.org W: www.hairandbeautycharity.org

New Products

104 QMS Medicosmetics The German skincare brand has added two new products to its Epigen pollution defence range. Epigen Pollution Detox Cleansing Gel is a mild, rinse-off formula containing lactobionic acid (PHA), designed to remove dirt and pollution particles from the skin’s surface and deep into the pores. Epigen Pollution Defense Day & Night Gel-Cream is formulated with the same Epigenetic peptide as the brand’s serum, to hydrate while avoiding harmful epigenetic changes. RRPs: £38 for the cleansing gel; £110 for the gel-cream 07376 234 244 qmsmedicosmetics.com

Aesthetic Source Aesthetic Source has rebranded its Exuviance line and launched three new products. Glycolic Polish includes glycolic acid, lactobionic acid and alumina crystals to prepare skin for the antiageing regimen; Retinol Serum enhances the skin’s hydrating matrix; and Retinol Eye Creme encourages skin renewal. RRP: £48 for Glycolic Polish; £69.50 for Retinol Serum; £64.50 for Retinol Eye Crème 01234 313130 aestheticsource.com

Mylee Mylee has launched the Precision Wax Pen, a compact hair removal pen for brows, lips and bikini line. It heats up at room temperature and is mess free, with an easy application. Twist up the pen from the bottom, apply the wax in the direction of hair growth using the precision nozzle and place the strip over. Then, pull skin tight with one hand and pull the strip off in the opposite direction. RRP: £12 020 8365 5858 (HSNF) hsnf.co.uk

Espa Espa has designed Depuff and Soothe Eye Gel to tackle the visible impacts of prolonged screen time, air conditioning and the stresses of everyday life around the eye area by reducing dehydration lines and brightening the skin’s appearance. Key ingredients include phytocomplex, which combines chamomile, cornflower, cucumber, vitamin and kiwi fruit water for a soothing effect; Mediterranean ferment, which helps reduce dark circles and signs of fatigue; and hyaluronic acid, which provides moisturise and helps firm the skin. Trade: £25 01606 336349 espaskincare.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Career Path

108

How to make it as a...

leading MALE

MANICURIST

With an impressive portfolio including work for Vogue, Marie Claire and several London Fashion Week shows, Robbie Tomkins reveals the skills and experience you need to make it big as a top nail tech

1. Nails need to be your passion “I only started painting nails six years ago and it all happened by accident. I was working in consumer press relations (PR) and I met the owner of nail brand Rock Beauty London, who asked if I would do their PR. I got to go to New York, Paris and London Fashion Weeks with the brand and quickly identified that there weren’t many men doing session work. I thought, ‘I could create a little niche for myself here’. “I bought a gel-polish kit and started offering £5 manicures in my lunch hour to women at the office. I would also book days off work to assist top techs doing session work, like Ama Quashie, Jenny Longworth, Imarni and Lucy Tucker, and things just continued to take off – now I’m a brand ambassador for Navy Professional and Bio Sculpture.”

2. There’s no easy way to land work “It’s a bit of a minefield finding session work, which encompasses fashion, editorial and celebrity jobs. The best route to get your foot in the door is to assist at London Fashion Week, which runs every February and September. This is the time top techs are on the hunt for good assistants, so see who is posting about it on social media and contact them directly. “If you live outside of London, get an Airbnb – some techs will post an hour or two before showtime asking for extra help, so you need to be able to get there quickly. Doing regular session work usually means you will be signed with an agency but it’s not a pre-requisite, it just makes it a bit easier. Being signed does come with fees.”

3. Your attitude is as important as your skill and technique

“Having a positive attitude on set is the number-one thing that will get you rebooked, so get on with everyone professionalbeauty.co.uk

and bring positive vibes. Big no-nos are being moody or turning up late. I’ve worked with magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire and Vanity Fair, and they remember what you bring to the set. Last year, I did my first ever Marie Claire cover, doing the nails for actress Gabriella Wilde, and it’s been a career highlight. “This isn’t a typical nine-to-five job either. The hours are long, some of the fashion week shows require you to start at 6am while others don’t kick off until 9pm, and the conditions can be hard – you have to fight to have prominence backstage, as hair and make-up tends to take priority. It’s organised chaos but it’s an amazing, buzzy atmosphere.”

4. Make sure you have financial reserves “Have a plan B for money, whether it’s a part-time job or seeing private clients, as the pay in session work is really unpredictable. You’ll need this other source of income to support you when you’re starting out. I’ve worked on lots of editorial shoots and catwalk shows for free (even ones where I was the lead manicurist), and I have done others that have been paid. “However, working these jobs taught me to work fast and helped raise my profile, and it really is a great accomplishment. Plus, if you can then land those big campaigns, then you will get paid way more money than you ever would working in a salon. Any money I get paid, I always pass on to my assistants too, though.”

5. Don’t be hard on yourself “I used to take it so personally when I would get optioned for a job and then be told the day before that I didn’t get it. It’s crushing, but I’ve learned over time that if somebody else has got it – sometimes a friend you’ve made in the industry – it’s not personal. For this job, you need a bit of a thick skin.” PB

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NETTLE VENOM A N T I -A G E I N G C R E A M Why? A Nettles Sting causes swelling and irritation to the skin. So the skin has to heal repairing other tissues in the process. Heaven’s Nettatoxin® this is our patented ingredient in our just launched anti-ageing Nettle Venom Cream. It swells lines and repairs skin even though the skin has not been actually stung. How does is do that? The skin receptors containing Interferon release radical healing repair, Collagen and Elastin this reinforces the skin from the inside out. Why does it not Harm? Because Serotonin is produced to reduce the swelling by taking away of the toxins. Used daily after cleansing your skin this will be like a course of treatments, also daily use speeds up the anti-ageing process. Putting nettle extract in a cream just does not cut it. The nettles have to be active else it will not make the skin look smooth young and glowing. Nettle stings contain acid (Formic acid) but they also contain Histamine and other neuro-transmitting chemicals. The exact details are still unknown but it is the histamine that causes the initial reaction when you are stung.

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Professional Beauty July 2020

Articles inside

Nail notes

New products

The love of money

Operational advice

The new client journey

Career Path

Insider

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