Professional Beauty UK - June 2019

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June 2019

June 2019 | professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Contents

7

Contents Regulars

29 Professionalbeauty.co.uk

What the industry’s been talking about online

HD Brows

13 News

Clients call for regulation in the beauty industry; Urban Retreat announces London flagship

35 Out & about

Behind the scenes at the biggest beauty and spa networking events 41 Insider

Our exclusive monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 48 Spa launches

Four of the biggest spa openings happening this summer 53 Ward’s world

Hellen Ward on dealing with a bad apple in your team 55 Ask the experts

Preventing post-wax rashes and how to create a summer tanning marketing campaign 91 Staff strategy

New laws mean changes to the way pay is calculated and recorded 92 Nail notes

Exclusive sky-blue wedding mani tutorial from top tech Katie Barnes 95 Treatment news

We find out if Dermalogica’s Pro Power Peel 60 is worth the hype 96 New products

Summer collections from Gellux, Jessica and Mavala 104 Career Path

Babtac’s Lesley Blair on the challenges of chairing a beauty association

Features

On the cover

61 Talking to… Danielle Woods

PB’s Therapist of the Year 2019 on why she’s passionate about training up the next generation of beauty therapists

66 Under the sea

Reef-safe sun care formulas are in the spotlight, and for good reason. Here’s how best to protect your skin and the environment

69 Use protection

Sun protection messaging that targets people of colour has never been more important. Dija Ayodele delves into the issue 73 Rest assured

How Surrey-based Frensham Pond Hotel and Spa got its interior design right 74 Maximum comfort

Seven spa furniture pieces that will have your clients saying wow 87 Out of the ordinary

Behind the scenes at The Spa at Carden – a Cheshire mega spa promising to change the UK wellness landscape

77 Hot topic

Increased competition on the high street has resulted in a beauty salon price war, but should you enter into the discount battle? Awardwinning salon owner Sam Pearce weighs in 78 All inclusive

With more shade-inclusive make-up ranges launching than ever before, the inclusive beauty trend has evolved into an industry standard. We round up the best launches from the pro brands Cover: Accessorize

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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15/05/2019 14:54

Salon clients want industry regulation just as much as beauty professionals do, according to new research by Babtac (see page 13) and this 360-degree approach to campaigning for change can only add weight to the argument.

Indeed, some major initiatives are already underway, including a Government consumer protection campaign focused on aesthetic treatments (see page 20). While such pledges of support for safety are positive, until the relevant standards of training and practice become mandatory, those performing treatments without the underpinning knowledge and skills to do so safely will keep doing that, and many clients will continue to be swayed by the cheaper prices they can afford to charge. In fact, new research this month from Botox manufacturer Allergan shows that price is still the number-one deciding factor for young people considering aesthetic treatments, with safety much lower down the list. See page 18 for the full story.

Achieving some form of regulation is the ultimate goal of Babtac chair Lesley Blair, and in our Career Path feature on page 104 we find out what it takes to make it as the head of an organisation pushing for change.

Safety has also been back in the spotlight for sun care this month, with the launch of a new campaign to make people of colour part of the conversation around the importance of SPF. Find out why on page 69.

We also take a closer look at the impact of sun care on the safety of marine life on page 66, focusing on a new wave of launches that replace the ingredients believed to be harmful to coral reefs.

Editor

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Amanda Strange amanda.s@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4793

Editor: Eve Oxberry eve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7378

Sibel Suleyman sibel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4794

Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley amanda@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9064 Features editor: Georgia Seago georgia@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9063 Features writer: Fiona Vlemmiks fiona@professionalbeauty.co.uk Social media editor: Chris Halpin chris@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7368 Sales director: Steve James steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Jack Diamond jack@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4792 Caroline Ruston caroline.r@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4798

Classified and recruitment sales: Nur Tanyeri nur@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4796 Publisher: Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4799 Design and production: ICD, imagecreativedesign.co.uk Printing: Walstead, walstead-uk.com The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

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13 News

News 82% of clients want the beauty industry regulated UK consumers are just as keen as professionals to see the beauty industry regulated.

A survey by the British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology (Babtac) asked 2,000 UK salon clients for their views, and 82% said they want the industry to be subject to mandatory regulation.

1,744 (87%) said they believe beauty therapists should have to be trained and qualified in order to work in the industry, with 1,717 (86%) expressing the opinion that therapists should be required by law to possess a licence to perform treatments.

82% said there should be mandatory regulation in order to prove that therapists have the qualifications they say they do.

The survey’s findings hinted that even regular salon goers are largely uninformed when it comes to the current lack of regulation; only 38% were aware that there aren’t currently any rules in place that require therapists to have specific training or hold accredited

qualifications. Babtac will use the findings to support its ongoing campaign for Government-approved self-regulation.

Babtac chair Lesley Blair said: “We have been seeing increasing industry support for regulation to support professionalism, but this is the first time we have quantified the extent of client support.

“Extensive demand for regulation from the general public [means] it’s high time that the industry pulls together to make this happen.

The outcome will be positive for all; better standards, higher quality training and client peace of mind.”

Commenting on the figures, Eve Taylor, founder of the eponymous aromatherapy beauty brand, said on Twitter: “I went to Parliament back in the 1970s to ask, ‘who protects the public [during treatments]?’ Some therapists are now doing very short training, but as there is no minimum standard of training, it’s all legal and insurable.”

Beauty customers visit their local salon five times a year The UK’s beauty spending habits have been revealed – with customers visiting their local salon on average five times a year, spending more than £200 on treatments in this period.

Using data collected from more than 325,000 of its British and Irish

salon clients, software provider Versum found that the most popular beauty treatment in the UK is a manicure or pedicure (15.5%), followed closely by eyebrow and eyelash services (13.8%), facials (9.2%) and hair removal (9.3%).

The average beauty client is 38 years old and the most popular time they book themselves in for treatments is 9am, with salons seeing four times as many customers at this time and earning nearly seven times more

than in the evenings, after office hours, the report found. This early peak timeframe continues through to lunchtime, with 61% of daily salon appointments completed by 1pm.

Fridays and Saturdays are your busiest time, with 40% of services scheduled on these days each week, while Mondays are your least crowded, with fewer than 9% of bookings on this day.

March, May and June are your busiest months, accounting for 30% of appointments annually Meanwhile, January and February are your weakest for bookings, with just 7% of treatments performed in these two months, the research discovered. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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News

14

inbrief

// More than a quarter (26%) of British women have never cleaned their make-up brushes, while a further two thirds share them with another person, according to research by Cosmetify.

96% said they have also applied expired make-up, with three quarters of people doing so knowingly. // A new hair and beauty salon has opened in South Shields providing work experience for people with learning disabilities. Ocean Choices, led by Kelly Lovely, is training people in all aspects of running a salon to help increase their employability. // Entries are open for the National Hairdressers’ Federation and National Beauty Federation 2019 Business Awards, which celebrate the best salons and individuals in the country.

This year’s categories include: Best Independent Beauty Salon, Best Client Experience and Best Apprentice.

The deadline for applications is July 26. Enter at nhf.info/nhfbusinessawards // Equipment and skincare brand Naturastudios has opened a training academy in Elstree, Hertfordshire, offering education to help practitioners become confident in providing safe and effective treatments. The building includes a showroom and the aesthetic equipment training covers courses on Cryopen and Dermapen.

Beauty salons flourishing on UK high streets Beauty salons are one of two business types keeping trading healthy on UK high streets.

A net total of 495 new salons opened in the UK in 2018, despite it being one of the toughest trading years in recent times for high-street retailers.

Figures from Local Data Company’s Retail and Leisure Market Analysis Full Year 2018 report showed that beauty salons increased their rate of expansion last year, with 495 new openings compared to 388 in 2017.

Though nail salon openings slowed slightly to a net total of 166 compared to 176 in 2017, the report found that

service retail was the only classification to see an improvement year on year in its net unit numbers.

Retailers within the health, beauty and wellbeing category continued to dominate the top 10 categories for growth, occupying 40% of the list.

Lucy Stainton, head of retail and strategic partnerships at Local Data Company, commented: “We can see a multitude of emerging trends and brands that hint at a very bright, diverse future for our high streets.

“My prediction for the remainder of 2019 would be the continued, albeit slower, growth of the health and beauty services we saw in 2018.

Urban Retreat opens new flagship salon in London Urban Retreat is gearing up to open its first standalone London salon – Urban Retreat at The White House – in Knightsbridge this month, promising to “challenge the beauty hospitality space”.

The 12,000sq ft five-storey building will feature a diverse range of beauty and hair services. It’s a big move for the company, which used to be based in London’s luxury department store Harrods until its 15-year partnership ended last year.

The salon will house nutritionists, wellbeing consultants, acclaimed

tattoo and piercing artists, and popular hair stylist Frédéric Fekkai, as well as offering traditional beauty and medi-spa services, relaxation rooms, a workout and meditation studio, nail space, retail area and in-house restaurant.

Managing director Reena Hammer said: “In a landscape where traditional retail layouts and store design are being challenged by the expectations of the evolving consumer, our brand new concept will focus on an experience-led approach.”

// Cotswold-based Dormy House has appointed Hannah Osborne as spa manager. She will be responsible for the operation and strategy, ensuring the spa continues to deliver high standards and an environment focused on holistic rejuvenation.

Osborne previously worked at the Mandarin Oriental London.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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18

inbrief

// Skincare brand Clarins has become the official partner of Plastic Odyssey’s expedition to reduce plastic pollution in the ocean. The brand is helping to fund a 2020 project that will see Plastic Odyssey circumnavigate the globe on a boat powered by plastic rubbish in a bid to promote recycling. // Two people in New Mexico contracted HIV after PRP facials at a salon. Both clients were diagnosed after treatments at VIP Spa in Albuquerque, which was shut down last September following concerns over its handling of needles and questions around its licence to perform the treatments. // Waxing brand Outback Organics has raised £911 for two charities so far this year.

The team raised £536 for gynaecological cancer charity The Eve Appeal and £375 for Prostate Cancer UK. The brand will focus its next charitable efforts on supporting people with mental health challenges. // Pro nail brand Biosculpture has launched Nail Buff – an app that lets users discover more than 2,000 lacquer and gel-polish shades using their phone’s camera or a saved photo to find a colour match.

Users can also book appointments with techs through the app. // Formby Hall Hotel & Spa in Southport has partnered with Made for Life Organics to offer a new range of wellness treatments and Cancer Touch Therapy from June. This coincides with the appointment of Joanne Massey as spa manager, following the hotel’s £2.4m refurbishment that included an extension to its leisure suite.

Client-therapist relationship strongest in Belfast Clients in Belfast are most likely to consider their relationship with their regular therapist important, with 58% describing the bond as strong.

This is followed by Glaswegians at 57%, Birmingham residents at 53%, those who live in Leeds at 52%, and Londoners at 47%.

Business service provider Liberis looked into the client-therapist bond and found that around 10 million Brits happily disclose intimate details of their personal life with their beauty therapist or hair stylist.

77% of the 1,000 UK respondents said they also trust their therapist to deliver

treatments to a high standard, though only 26% said they had remained loyal to the same beauty salon or hair stylist for more than five years.

However, one in five millennial women said they would only visit one beauty therapist for brow treatments specifically.

Katie Woodland, a psychologist and business coach who consulted on the research, commented: “Often people find that speaking to a hairdresser or beautician about the difficulties they’re experiencing in life is a lot easier than talking to family members or a trained professional.”

Consumers care more about price than safety when booking aesthetic treatments Price is the primary concern for consumers considering undergoing non-surgical treatments, according to Botox manufacturer Allergan’s 360° Aesthetics Report.

Of the survey’s respondents – more than 14,500 “aesthetically conscious” consumers aged 21–65 in 18 countries around the world – the majority said their first question upon an initial consultation for procedures such as injectables or body-contouring is the cost, followed by the effectiveness of the treatment and, lastly, safety.

People wanting to feel good about themselves is one of the key drivers for the growth in aesthetic treatments, with more than two thirds (69%) admitting looking their best was important for daily

activities and 64% saying looking “healthy” contributes to confidence.

This was supported by a separate BBC study, carried out by Deltapoll, which revealed that 66% of millennial women are considering having an aesthetic treatment, with botox (27%) and fillers (28%) the most popular choices.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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News

20

inbrief

// Mii Cosmetics has launched in Australia via distributor Kindred Beauty.

Owner Mary-Tabitha Wilkin is a former brand manager at Mii manufacturer and UK distributor Gerrard International. Salons have the flexibility to take on the full range or select lines. // CND, Lashus, MoroccanTan and Wax:one distributor Sweet Squared has launched a set of bridal beauty offers running until June 30. The offers include a 25% discount on the Something in Blue Wax:one kit and three for two on all Moroccan Tan 1L solutions. // Girls Aloud singer Kimberley Walsh is the latest celebrity to become a fan of machine brand CACI’s non-surgical microcurrent facial toning treatment.

Walsh took to Instagram to share her treatment results, revealing a brighter and smoother complexion.

Her session was with the brand’s celebrity facialist Shane Cooper. // Any make-up artist, regardless of where they have trained, can now benefit from an HD Brows’ make-up artist pro discount.

Meanwhile, sister brand KB Pro has created a Downtime & Develop package for microblading and permanent make-up students at its Yorkshire Academy, whereby delegates receive free accommodation for the course. // Salon System was one of the goody bag sponsors for celebrity MUA Mario Dedivanovic’s The Masterclass make-up tutorial event in London.

The beauty company supplied four sets of Naturalash strip lashes for each bag.

Salons to educate clients on cervical screening in major new campaign An initiative to help salons encourage clients to go for cervical screening tests has been launched by booking platform Treatwell in partnership with Government agency Public Health England (PHE).

More than 400 salons that work with Treatwell have already committed to the Life Saving Wax campaign, which will

involve basic training on how to start conversations about the importance of cervical screening, and posters and information cards to show to clients.

The campaign was launched on the back of research which showed that while the number of women attending smear tests is at a 20-year low, the number who go to salons for intimate waxing is continuing to rise, with 90% of women aged 25–34 maintaining their pubic hair, and 1.2 million of those go to beauty salons to do so.

The research also found that 47% of young women feel comfortable speaking to their beauty therapist about personal topics and 74% listen to their advice.

Popularity of fillers prompts Government safety campaign The Department of Health and Social Care (DHSC) has launched a consumer safety campaign around botulinum toxin and fillers.

Step one is a fact sheet and advertorials in consumer magazines including Heat and Grazia, with advice including, “avoid participating in group treatments, or events involving alcohol” and “make sure that you know how to obtain after care advice and support if things go wrong”.

Separately, the Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) has invited the industry to back a petition to make fillers prescription-only, meaning that, like Botox, the products used could only be prescribed by medics.

Ambitious expansion plans for UK salon groups Pure Spa and Thérapie Clinic Two UK salon groups have unveiled plans for major expansion. Professional Beauty Award-winning Pure Spa & Beauty has opened four new sites in Peterborough, Purley, Croydon; Hamilton, Glasgow; and Cheadle, Cheshire, bringing its total to 13.

The new sites are all partnerships with David Lloyd Clubs and are in line with the company’s plans to have 25 sites by 2022, thanks to a crowd-funding campaign.

Meanwhile, advanced skincare clinic group Thérapie Clinic has announced a £50 million investment to fund 100 new UK sites over the next three years. Ireland-based Thérapie opened its first UK clinic in June last year, in Newcastle, and currently has 31 across the UK and Ireland.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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26 News

diarydates // June 7–8 FACE QEII Centre, London Conference for aesthetic practitioners with more than 100 speakers.

020 7551 9779 faceconference.com // June 19–22 Spatec Europe Grand Hotel Dino, Baveno, Italy Event for spa pros with speed-dating style meetings and a supplier showcase. +356 2134 6454 spateceu.com

Global Wellness Day attracts industry support in the UK This year’s Global Wellness Day (GWD) is gaining support in the UK from across the industry.

GWD is a not-for-profit initiative, founded by spa professional Belgin Aksoy in 2012, and has the ultimate aim of raising awareness of the importance of wellness practices around the world by offering free health and wellness activities.

For 2019, distributor Gerrard International’s communications director Paul Gerrard has been named a UK ambassador for the initiative.

The eighth annual Global Wellness Day will take place on June 8 and will be celebrated with free events and initiatives internationally, with a focus on small, positive gestures.

Gerrard told Professional Beauty that the distributor’s spa and salon accounts would be encouraged to take part in a way that suits their offer and clientele – Gerrard International distributes major brands including Jessica, BeautyLab and its own Mii products.

Last year, more than 4,000 events were held around the world, offering free fitness classes, nutrition workshops and mindfulness classes.

“I’ve been asked whether I feel we have too many days dedicated to

mental health and wellness. The truth is, sadly for most people, there are not enough,” commented Gerrard.

“Global Wellness Day isn’t about that one day, it’s about the other 364 days and what you do with them. In short, no one ever got sick from having too many days of wellness.”

New initiatives Global beauty therapy association Cidesco is getting involved by holding a walking challenge for its members, aiming to achieve an overall goal of 500,000 steps between participants.

In the UK, GWD will coincide with the launch of new fitness retreat Escape at Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire. To celebrate, the hotel will offer guests and members a free taster day with outdoor Pilates, a spin session that also combines a core workout, and a rejuvenating stretch class.

Gaia Spa in Devon is involved again this year, holding free yoga and wellness lifestyle education for more than 200 people.

Gerrard is encouraging more salons to join the event. “It’s not too late to get involved – even in a small way like putting up a posters to make clients aware,” he said. Marketing and event materials can be downloaded and adapted on the GWD website.

// July 1–2 Professional Beauty Delhi Pragati Maidan Largest of PB’s India expos with a matchmaking service for brands and distributors. +91 (0)22 6171 3232 professionalbeauty.in // July 8 Salon Life Beauty Convention 2019 ILEC Conference Centre, London New management conference including networking opportunities.

01268 745892 salon-life.co.uk // July 21 Scratch Summer Party Proud Embankment, London Scratch magazine nail sector awards event.

01959 547000 scratchstarsawards.co.uk // September 15 Innovative Beauty Conference Castle Hotel, Windsor New one-day conference, followed by Babtac and Cibtac Awards.

01452 623110 babtac.com

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Digital

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professional

beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Mark, The Spa Man (@MediaMarkSmith): Great article in PB May – The waxers’ confessional. Loved the first-person accounts from the waxers. Things “rising” up for @Wax_Daddy.

Great story.

Hot topic Nailpad (@nailpad): Starting the week with the latest issue of #ProfessionalBeauty

Initiatives to train beauty therapists to spot domestic abuse launch in the North Zoe Penny, founder of Revive Holistic Beauty Therapies, commented: “This is brilliant. I’ve had a few clients disclose domestic violence to me and luckily I used to do social work so I felt confident in handling the situation. However, many therapists will not have the knowledge or experience to know how best to support their clients, so this training is ideal.”

THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you find it necessary to use offers and incentives to retain/find new clients?

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Amazon and eBay selling self-inject filler kits for under £50 Jolene Young, beauty therapy learning assistant at Moray College UHI, commented: “Horrified. It’s bad enough that people can buy dermal rollers but fillers, etc. should be restricted to medics. We desperately need regulation.”

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Social Surgery

30

Posting FOR Success Content is key on social channels. PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin gives advice on making your posts work for you, and how to publish them on a regular basis

I

It can be easy to forget about social media when

There are some easy ways to put out more

you’re busy with other tasks surrounding your business.

content on social media. Many salons use tools

But if you’re only posting sporadically, or leaving

that post content automatically. Unfortunately,

accounts inactive for months on end, you’re harming

the easiest way will likely lead to the least success

your prospects in more ways than one.

in the long term.

Obviously, if you’re not posting, then people are

If your posts are robotic and automatic, they’re

much less likely to find you naturally on social media.

going to come across that way to prospective

If there’s no content on your feed, there’ll be no

customers. Put yourself in a client’s shoes: if one

opportunity to reach a new audience or build a

salon’s content is generic and boring, and another

relationship with your customers.

shows their personality and creative flair, which

View your social media like your shopfront. Would

would you likely choose?

you take a second look at a business that looks like it’s not been touched in some time? If a potential customer

Personality and creativity win out

finds your social profile to be inactive, that’s the message

User-generated content like reviews or testimonials

you’re putting across.

is still a great source, but consider using tools such as Canva to turn them into graphics. Images get

Scheduling content consistently

more organic engagement than any normal text

Thankfully, there are scheduling tools that can help

post or link. Other quick wins include before-and

you be consistent with social content. I’d recommend

-after photos (with clients’ permission of course), or

Buffer and Hootsuite; both have free versions that

taking some creative “glamour” shots of your salon.

allow you to schedule posts across all of the most popular platforms.

The amount you post on social media can vary.

Currently, video beats everything else on social media. It’s also the best way to show off your personality to the world. If you’re brave enough

Current thinking on this suggests these are the minimum

to “go live”, your engagement rate will continue

targets you should aim for:

to grow – meaning you’ll reach even more of your

• At least one post on Facebook per day, no more

audience. Again, keep things simple if you need to:

than two • At least three tweets per day • At least one post on your Instagram grid, no more than three.

videos can be as simple as Q&A sessions, or offering short tips to clients.

Don’t worry about perfection – being friendly

If you don’t think you can hit these numbers, don’t

and genuine on camera can mask any mistakes or

worry. So long as you’re posting somewhat consistently,

production problems. Show potential customers the

then you’ll already be getting a leg up on some of

person they’ll meet on their first visit, and you’ll have

your competitors.

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Industry Events

&

Out About

35

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

THE ORIGINALS EVENT IIAA HEADQUARTERS, LONDON

To celebrate 25 years in the industry, IIAA invited “The Originals” – salon owners and therapists who have worked with the company since the early days – to a champagne reception and lunch event.

Guests including PB editor Eve Oxberry heard memories from the people who built the brand, such as founders Tracy Tamaris and David Alpert, and Lorraine Miller who has worked with them for more than 21 years.

Video messages were also heard from Environ founder Des Fernandes and PB’s managing director Mark Moloney. Alpert then shared his vision of plastic-free packaging and details of new charity the IIAA Foundation, set to launch this year.

WAX LIVE 2019 UNIVERSITY OF WARWICK’S SCARMAN CENTRE, COVENTRY More than 90 waxing pros attended the first Wax Live event, organised by hair-removal experts Andy Rouillard and Toni Keable.

The seminar programme was split into two streams – practical demonstrations from pros such as Lisa Stone and Stephanie King on leg waxing and sugaring, and marketingoriented sessions, which included tips on boosting your profits.

The day concluded with a charity raffle in memory of Suzanna Green, owner of Emerald Waxing, which raised more than £500 for Willow Burn Hospice. Delegates were gifted a goody bag full of waxing treats. Rouillard said: “We were delighted with the support shown by our attendees and amazing speakers, whose passion for the industry has made the weekend such an inspiring event.” >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Industry Events

36 NHF/NBF COMMUNITY AWARDS HOUSE OF COMMONS, LONDON The Pavilion Terrace at the House of Commons created an impressive setting for the first National Beauty Federation Hair & Beauty Community Awards. The event was launched to recognise the great community and charity initiatives that go on in salons across the UK. Eve caught up with NBF ambassador Hellen Ward, awards finalist and salon owner Susan Routledge and many others at the event. Beauty businesses recognised included Beauty with a Conscience, which was highly commended in the Community category for its work with disadvantaged young people in Glasgow, and Eden Skin Clinic in London, which was highly commended in the Fundraising category for raising money to give children operations for facial deformities.

REFECTOCIL BROWISTA CREATIVE CUSTOM COLOUR WORKSHOP SOHO RESIDENCE, LONDON Features editor Georgia Seago attended an evening event to discover the new brow and lash tint range from RefectoCil with Salon System. Head trainer Chrissi Akbaba was on hand to talk through the range, which includes several colours designed to be blended to create a bespoke shade to suit every client with multiple tonal variations. Guests watched brow tint demonstrations and drank cocktails created to match each shade in the range.

SOIL ASSOCIATION LOOK FOR THE LOGO PANEL BAMFORD HAYBARN, BROMPTON CROSS Deputy editor Amanda Pauley attended a Soil Association panel in London to discuss how the boom in certified organic beauty is impacting the market. Discussion points included the standards required to become organic certified and the benefits of introducing a recycling traffic light-style system on beauty products to help salons, spas and consumers recycle properly.

The panel included Soil Association business development manager for health and beauty Georgia Barnes, certification officer Christina Cheung and press officer Sophie Morgan, as well as Bamford’s Jasveet Jagdev, eco blogger Lilo Ask-Henriksen, and the founder of Tabitha JK Haircare, Tabitha James Kraan. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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41 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

beauty

On the spot

Primark

With BBC Three’s reality TV programme Glow Up: Britain’s Next Make-up Star having put the creativity and skills of MUAs in the spotlight, many of you are now looking to gain more experience in this field.

More than a third (40%) want to train in editorial and celebrity make-up so you can work on photoshoots, broadening your CV, while 20% want to master special effects, 10% catwalk and 5% theatre make-up.

Making sure your salon looks chic and Instagramworthy is also high on the agenda, which is why more than a third (35%) have given their interior an update in the past six months, while a further 25% have done so in the past year. The salon price war is plaguing the high street and it’s really affecting business. Discover how you can secure regular income without heavily discounting your treatments on page 77.

Which type of specialist make-up would you most like to train in?

1. Editorial/celebrity shoots 2. Special effects 3. Catwalk 4. Theatre

46

%

April 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2019 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2018?

58% 30% 12% are discounting services to compete with budget salons

When was the last time you updated your salon’s interior design?

1. Six months ago 2. One year ago 3. Two years ago 4. Three years ago

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider

BETTER

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

56% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL 2019 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2018?

30% 49% 21% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Trends

42

Insider

spa

On the spot

Thalgo

With a spa’s interior now being spoken about as much as the treatments and services it provides, it’s important that your wellness spaces are snappable and worthy of the ‘gram. This is why 30% of you have updated your interior design in the past year and another 30% have given their spaces a refresh in the past six months. If you’re thinking of updating your furniture too, check out our pick of the best solutions on page 74.

With competition in the market increasing and more cheap offers for spa days appearing on discount sites such as Groupon and Wowcher, more than half of you (57%) are discounting your services to try and keep up.

However, 43% of you think this could impact your business negatively in the long run and are sticking firmly with your current prices.

Which type of specialist make-up would you most like to train in?

1. Catwalk 2. Editorial/celebrity shoots 3. Drag 4. Special effects

April 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2019 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2018?

43% 29% 28% BETTER

57

%

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

are discounting services to compete with budget spas

63% When was the last time you updated your spa’s interior design?

1. One year ago 2. Six months ago 3. More than four years ago

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL 2019 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2018?

27% BETTER

29%

44% WORSE

SAME

4. Three years ago

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Insider

nails

Making sure clients get the best results from their appointment is your top priority, which is why it’s annoying when customers damage their nails.

Clients picking off gel-polish rather than soaking it, as you advise them to, is your top niggle (55%), followed by clients doing housework without gloves on (17%), biting their nails (10%) and cutting their cuticles (8%).

Gel-polish manicures are still your top service but clients are opting for soft (83%) rather than hard (17%) gel for the finished look, and a small percentage of your techs (7%) are now creating nail tutorials on YouTube to boost your salon or spa’s reputation online.

With wedding season in full swing, check out award-winning tech Katie Barnes’s advice for creating chic blue nails for brides on page 92.

On the spot What’s the one thing you wish your clients would stop doing?

Salon System Gellux

Business Trends

44

1. Picking off gel-polish rather than soaking it 2. Doing housework without gloves on 3. Biting their nails 4. Biting/cutting their cuticles

April 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2019 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2018??

51% 39% 10%

7%

BETTER

have created a step-by-step tutorial on YouTube

METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email from May 1–10, regarding business for the month to April 30. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by spas and salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK

24

Soft gel is more popular with your clients than hard gel

SAME

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN APRIL 2019 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2018?

27% 57% 16% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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What are

YOU striving for?

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Register for free tickets at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/beautygoals or call the ticket hotline on +44 (0)344 443 4411

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15/05/2019 11:07

Spa Launches

48

SUMMER

sanctuaries

Four big-budget new spas are set to open in time for the summer season, in impressive natural settings. We find out what makes them stand out COTTONMILL SPA, SOPWELL HOUSE, ST ALBANS

Opening: Summer 2019 Size: 16,000sq ft inside, 4,305sq ft outside Facilities: 14.5m indoor pool, two vitality pools, two saunas (one organic), steam room, salt steam room, botanical steam room, experience showers, relaxation rooms, gym, fitness studio, salon, garden room, spa garden Treatment rooms: 16 USP: Sopwell House will open its three-storey, £14m spa this summer. Standout features include a spa garden designed by an RHS Chelsea Flower Show goldmedallist, dressing rooms with Tom Dixon lighting fixtures, and the Rose Relaxation room, accented with rose-tinted glass screens and sheer cotton fabrics.

Billed as “a unique and exclusive sanctuary”, the members-only spa houses a separate space for an “elite community”, The Club at Cottonmill. This includes a Deep Relaxation Room with Inviion Four Senses loungers, programmed with sonic and aroma compositions, a Dornbracht sensory shower; and thermal suite with organic, panoramic sauna and salt and herbal steam rooms.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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GRANTLEY HALL, YORKSHIRE

AQUA SANA LONGFORD FOREST, BALLYMAHON, IRELAND

Opening date: July 6, 2019 Spa size: 10,411sq ft Facilities: 18m indoor pool, hydrotherapy pool, sauna, steam room, snow rooms, relaxation room, spa lounge, outdoor terrace Treatment rooms: Five USP: Grade II-listed Grantley Hall will open after extensive restoration this July. Located in the Yorkshire Dales, the property has a lake and English Heritagelisted Japanese garden surrounding the hall, with its 47 bedrooms and suites. The Three Graces Spa will offer treatments from Natura Bissé and Ila, with therapies and spa journeys designed to enhance mood, boost digestion and promote deep rest. The Executive Gym and Wellness centre will combine a gym, specific strength and conditioning gym, and a health and performance area; including biometric machines for health and fitness testing and analysis.

Spa Launches

49

Opening: Summer 2019 Spa size: 26,909sq ft Facilities: Outdoor pool, reflexology footbaths, various saunas, steam rooms, sensory showers and relaxation areas; outdoor hot tubs, salt steam room Treatment rooms: 14 USP: Billed as Ireland’s biggest standalone spa, Aqua Sana Longford Forest will be Center Parcs’ first outside of England, part of the Longford Forest holiday village.

The spa will have four zones. The Nordic Forest zone combines Alpine steam with an ice cave and snug room with fire pits; Volcanic Forest has a dry heat sauna and steam room with a glowing amber “volcano”; Hot Springs features outdoor hot tubs situated among pine trees; and Treetop Nesting has a steam room with a cooling mist to simulate a tropical climate, with sensory rainforest showers.

MILKWOOD SPA, LUXURY LODGES LAUGHARNE, WALES Opening: September 2019 Spa size: 6,028sq ft Facilities: Infinity pool, tepidarium beds, salt sauna, herbal steam room, gym, outdoor hydrotherapy pool, nail treatment stations Treatment rooms: Two USP: £8m has been invested into Milkwood Spa, situated onsite at the upcoming Luxury Lodges self-catering holiday resort in the Welsh coastal country of Carmarthenshire. The spa’s gym is equipped by Life Fitness, with interior fixtures and fittings supplied by Dale Sauna, and Temple Spa as the core product house. Guests will be able to enjoy panoramic views of the Taf estuary and Gower Peninsula from the spa, which sits in a club house separate from the lodges and also houses a restaurant, bar and lounge.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Ward’s World

53

FACE UP to conflict Many salon managers avoid dealing with employee underperformance or bad attitude, but facing the challenge is essential for the success of the business and the team, writes HELLEN WARD

T

here’s a wonderful quote from the late French philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre: “Only the guy who isn’t rowing has time to rock the boat”. Doesn’t that resonate with the busy salon manager who has a difficult employee disrupting their team? But just because you might have one bad apple, it doesn’t mean you have to give up on the whole tree. Unless, of course, the issue is starting to affect the rest of the team. If so, you need to deal with it, and pronto.

When I meet salon and spa owners and managers in my teaching capacity, it amazes me just how many bosses are utterly terrified of conducting disciplinary procedures. They go to any lengths to avoid it; sometimes hoping the person will leave rather than facing up to the fact that the correct course of action is to alert the employee to their concerns using proper procedures. Scared sick of getting it wrong and ending up at a tribunal, they often tell me that they let things go under the radar for fear of having to confront them, which is no good for the employer or the staff member. Hope is never a strategy, and anything that might spoil the team equilibrium is never good in a service industry.

2. Could they do it if their life depended on it?

If the answer to the first question is yes but they don’t know, you must tell them (verbally, in writing or both). Nobody can deliver what’s expected of them if they don’t know what it is, so it’s your responsibility to ensure people have proper job descriptions and detailed information, listing their performance requirements.

The second question is where it gets interesting.

If no, they couldn’t do it if their life depended on it, then it takes you down the “training and education” part of the flow chart.

However, if the answer is yes, you end up firmly on the “attitude” side of the chart. This is far trickier, but the crux of the chart arrives at another crucial question, “is performance rewarding?” If it isn’t, you must make it rewarding.

However, the stickier question is, “is non-performance rewarding?”

If so, remove the reward and make it punishing.

This is often an argument I use for instigating a performance-related pay, bonus or incentive system. Why should anybody be motivated to perform if their package is the same as somebody who doesn’t bother to go the extra mile?

Nobody needs to put up with an employee who is underperforming or causing issues for other staff.

However, any employer has a duty of care to ensure they handle things in the proper manner.

But their duty also means they can’t avoid the issue, otherwise everybody will suffer. PB

Anything that may spoil the team equilibrium is never good in a service industry

Means test One of the people who mentored and really inspired me as a young businesswoman in our sector was Pamela Goff, who headed up L’Oréal’s UK education for many years. She was a formidable person, helping to shape me and my colleagues with her etiquette and ethics. Pam had a performance analysis flow chart that I still use, teach and share today. At the very top, there are two questions.

1. Is it important and do they know?

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for The National Beauty Federation (NBF).

Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

053 PBJUN19 Wards World.indd 53

15/05/2019 11:45

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Ask the Experts

55

ask

the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

My clients complain of post-waxing rashes in summer. What can I do?

This is the time of year when clients start to think about preparing for long, hot sunny days and holidays. Ideally, they will be planning a few months ahead and waxing every four to six weeks, for three or four salon visits, to regulate their hair cycle. However, some clients will always turn up last minute expecting silky smooth skin that will last the duration of their holiday and for a few weeks after.

This is also the time of year when wax companies get phone calls from salons whose clients who have suddenly developed an “allergy” to their wax – their skin has gone spotty or developed a rash and it’s never happened before. Funny that it always seems to be on the sunniest day of the year, when clients can’t resist sitting outside even though they’ve just had their skin waxed.

It is vitally important to tell your clients how bad the sun is for their newly waxed skin. Waxing photo-sensitises the skin, which could cause pigmentation. It removes dead skin cells (a great exfoliation) and exposes open pores, which are vulnerable to the sun, and which sweat can infect and irritate.

Clients need to stay out of the sun for at least 24 to 48 hours after their waxing treatment. During this time, they also need to avoid close-fitting clothes, only have cool showers and avoid swimming or sitting in the sun.

They should be reminded not to apply self-tanning products, or go on a sunbed, and to avoid applying perfumes, creams or lotions except those designed to be used after waxing. If you find clients forget aftercare advice, or you want to drum home how important it is to keep out of the sun, then give out post-wax advice cards. Find out if your waxing company makes them.

Then make sure that every client gets one at this time of year.

Tracey Smith has been in the beauty industry for 30 years and is the owner of natural waxing brand Ashmira Botanica.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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56 Ask the Experts

Should I create a capsule treatment menu or offer wider choice?

How can I create a tanning marketing campaign calendar for my salon?

First of all, know your tanning clientele. Are they pre- or post-holiday tanners, busy mums or people that have full-time jobs? Some clients might regularly glam up for the weekend with a tan, while others are “event tanners” only. List as many types of client as possible, marking out typical dates or months that make sense for these groups. Then you can draw up a relevant month-to-month marketing calendar including monthly campaigns such as tanning weekends, offering a discount for regular tanners as well as seasonal ones.

Each campaign should hold its own unique aim and should use wording that will engage and inspire your target clients; for example, “body confidence month”. Campaigns with seasonal names such as “a winter glow”, or “refresh your skin for spring” might be successful in the quieter months.

In the run up to summer, you could also hold educational evenings called things like “get your skin summer ready”, where clients can enjoy a glass of fizz while they are educated on skin preparation and get to view a before-and-after transformation to entice them into wanting a tan themselves.

Don’t forget the wedding or festive party season and hone in on tanning trends, such as vegan or organic, showcasing relevant products, such as St Tropez’s Purity Range.

Beauty therapist Michaella Bolder is a celebrity spray Include any upcoming launches tanner and facialist who works your tanning brand has planned with St Tropez as a VIP tanner in your calendar to drive your and skin finisher. clients to new products.

Client retention is key for any salon or spa, and providing a product range and treatment menu that covers all bases ensures that clients will want to revisit time and again. Clients love to see progress in their skin and an extensive treatment menu means you can address any concerns that they have in stages, introducing techniques and ingredients at a rate that won’t overload the skin or cause over-stimulation.

Variety has the added benefit of keeping therapists engaged and enthused. There’s also the flexibility that comes with choice: whatever the client’s skincare needs and individual beauty beliefs, you can accommodate them while staying true to your own ethos as a beauty professional. At QMS Medicosmetics we also tailor treatment menus based on location, as the needs and desires of a client base will vary depending on where they live. For example, our inner-city clinics offer treatments to counteract the damaging impact of city living and pollution. For skincare, focus on programmes, with each treatment taking the client up to the next stage in their skin’s progress.

Of course, consumer trends come in cycles, so an extensive treatment menu provides an opportunity to promote different services that tap into the trends as they arise. Make sure you’re not selling yourself short by failing to provide enough choice.

Rowan Hall-Farrise is an experienced facialist and international head trainer at QMS Medicosmetics.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

057-060 PBJUN19 Ask the Experts.indd 56

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Ask the Experts

58

What are the most important things to look for in a make-up training provider?

What skills and experience do I need to stand out as a lash technician?

As lash treatments become more popular, so does the demand for good technicians. While technique is vitally important, it is also essential to have good management skills if you want to stand out from the crowd. When I talk about management skills, I am referring to, in particular, managing your time and space and being able to handle conflict.

To manage your time effectively, you should ensure that your lash station is ready before each client arrives. I recommend organising your products in order of use and having a decent stock of products on hand.

The last thing you want is to be fixing a client’s lashes only two days after their treatment because you didn’t have enough glue or the correct cleansing product on the day.

Conflict management is very important. We are not superhuman so even if you try your hardest, you will be unable to make every client happy every single time. If your client is dissatisfied with the treatment for any reason, I recommend three steps to try to resolve the conflict: identify the source of the problem; ask for solutions; then agree an outcome.

So, talk to your client to ask her expectations and find out her Monika Kupien is an ideal solution; then, come to an experienced and awardagreement. Suggest a discount winning lash technician based in York. She is an or free fixing – remember educator for Lash Extend UK as competition is big and you are well as a master educator for Nail a professional so it is important Harmony UK. that your customer is satisfied.

The first thing I would research is whether the course is certified by an accredited training provider.

Ask the school if it provides nationally recognised, vocational qualifications on completion of the course. This is essential for insurance and to enable you to get professional discounts from suppliers. Then I’d look at course content. Does it cover hygiene and safety standards as well as demonstrations of the relevant looks that you would like to add to your repertoire?

When studying make-up, I think it is important to get immersed in the practical side of things as well as watching great demonstrations by tutors. The student needs to have as much hands-on experience as possible.

It’s worth looking into how much time the training provider is allocating to practical work as this helps to build up an understanding of make-up application on different skin types and give students the confidence they need when they come to work on real clients.

Finally, consider the amount of ongoing support provided from the tutors once the course is completed. A good training provider should continue to encourage and nurture graduates.

Lucy Jayne is an awardwinning bridal make-up artist and the founder of the Lucy Jayne Makeup Academy, which offers a range of professional accredited make-up courses.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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61 Interview

Talking to...

Danielle Woods PB’s Therapist of the Year 2019, Danielle Woods, talks Georgia Seago through her career so far and reveals how she hopes to use the award to better the industry

B

efore becoming Professional Beauty’s Therapist

(formerly Ingleneuk Beauty Salon) gave Woods her

of the Year 2019, Danielle Woods says she wasn’t

first hands-on experience of salon life when she

thinking about changing anything after the

worked there as an apprentice while studying for

Awards. Now having won, she’s looking to the

her Level 2 at the same time as working for a

future, though perhaps surprisingly for an

Government-funded organisation in a different

accomplished therapist, she doesn’t see herself

industry.

opening her own salon or spa anytime soon. “I work for a really good business and it’s continuing

New path

to grow. I want my own salon one day, but you’ve got to

“Initially, I thought hospitality was going to be my

have a certain character and bank balance,” she says.

career, but it just wasn’t rewarding me in the way

Woods is under no illusions about the huge undertaking

that I thought it would. I was then in office jobs for

that is opening your own salon, having grown up around

seven years, and I thought, ‘what am I doing?’

her parents’ business, a salon near Blackburn that has since

There’s no creativity in it and not enough

moved locations and is still operating today. “Knowing

interaction with people,” says Woods.

first-hand how difficult that is, it’s not as rosy as a lot of

She began hosting The Body Shop at Home

people seem to think it is. It’s the dream, isn’t it? But I don’t

parties while working, which involved sharing

have that stress.” Her parents’ business, The Beauty Shed

make-up application tips and product advice with >

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Interview

62

other women. Combined with the beauty knowledge she had subconsciously gained growing up around her salon-owner mother, she found a natural fit in the beauty world. “It was all just common sense to me, but I found people really gained a lot from me passing that information on. It really opened my eyes

development for Woods, noticing her knack for

and I realised I could do something in this industry,” she says.

treatment development and desire to share her

Midway through her Level 2 apprenticeship, Woods was made

knowledge with others. The promotion came last

redundant from her office job and moved her studies to Nelson

year, after Woods was asked to create signature

& Colne College, where staff were able to create a bespoke Level

treatments using the spa’s new product house,

3 apprenticeship that incorporated electrolysis and other

The Natural Spa Factory.

machine-based modalities, on her mum’s

“We wanted our own body

advice. Upon completion and working full

treatments that fitted with The

time at Ingleneuk, Woods became more

Natural Spa Factory and had a

involved with the salon’s operations when it moved premises, gaining head-on experience of the other side of salon life.

“I was basically running the business with [my mum], meeting with suppliers and things like that, and then we took on an apprentice, who I trained, along with other staff. It quickly evolved as a career for me from there,” she says.

I’ve been visiting Blackburn College to talk to the beauty therapy students about life working in a spa and how I won the PB Award

retail perspective. They are some of our most popular treatments now,” says Woods. She incorporated body brushing as a more profitable alternative to use of an exfoliation product, and took other therapists’ concerns on board by including massage movements that put less strain on their joints.

Independence day It wasn’t long before Woods felt it was

Woods’s role now sees her delivering training to other

time to step out on her own and gain experience away from

therapists, something she’s particularly passionate

the family-owned business. “I didn’t want the next step of my

about. “My approach is that every single person I’m

career to be taking over this business that was my mum’s,

training is different, and they’ve all got their own

where all the clients are hers and I’ve only ever been trained

needs. It’s shown me that I have a lot more patience

by her,” she says. “So, I contacted The Woodland Spa because

than I realised,” says Woods, adding: “If someone’s

I wanted to work at the best spa I could and it had a really

not picking something up, it’s not necessarily a >

good reputation.”

Woods says she “couldn’t believe it” when she got the job there as a spa therapist.

Four years and a promotion later, she’s still flourishing and is happy working as part of the team. “It’s a really close team, the management’s amazing, and as a member of staff they really support you in whatever you put forward,” she says.

Testament to this, the spa’s management team created the role of head of training and

Clockwise from top: The Woodland Spa’s outdoor pool; the reception area; the outdoor fire pit

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Interview

64

fault, but there’s something there that you’re not seeing ... there’s a different need they have that someone else in the group doesn’t. I want them all to feel really confident that they can not only do the job, but that they can be as good as we think they can

Clockwise from top: The Woodland Spa team at The PB Awards 2019; Woods’s parents’ salon, The Shed; Woods performing a facial

be,” she says. instances, become strained recently,

Flying the flag

as more formerly professional-only

Woods balances training, treatment

brands switch their focus to consumer

development and performing services in

retail channels. Woods, however,

the spa with her role as a Decléor therapist

remains optimistic.

ambassador. As a big Decléor account, The

“It’s a sticky situation because brands

KEY DATES

Woodland Spa was asked to nominate a

are available everywhere now, and it

therapist to be part of the programme, whereby

seems uncontrollable sometimes, but I

2012 Woods begins her Level 2 Apprenticeship in Beauty Therapy at Blackburn College and Ingleneuk Beauty Salon, owned by her parents

Woods attends twice-yearly meetings and

think we’ve always got to have faith in the

feeds back to the rest of the team on everything

consumer,” says Woods. “Our clients trust

from new treatments to marketing knowhow.

us and what we recommend, and will

2013 Is made redundant from her role with Government-funded organisation The Enterprise Trust 2014 Completes Advanced Level Apprenticeship Level 3 with Nelson & Colne College, Lancashire

“It was a decision between my boss and

hopefully continue to do so rather than

the regional sales rep for Decléor. We get

going home and looking for the cheapest

introduced to new products and treatments

available option for that product.”

and are told about any other exciting things that are going on with the brand to feed

Gap in the market

back to the salon. I think Decléor definitely

Woods even sees an opportunity for a new

sees the value in therapists and working

breed of spa-only product houses to

alongside them,” says Woods.

address the disconnect between the

As many in the industry are all too aware,

brands turning their attention away from

the relationship between product houses

the professional market and the number of

and their salon accounts has, in some

massive new spa investments (some of which we’ve profiled on page 48). “The spa sector is growing and they’re not just small spas, they’re million-pound investments. So if some of the big brands are deciding to concentrate more on the retail route, that’s

2015 Starts working at The Woodland Spa as a spa therapist 2017 Elected to the Decléor Therapist Ambassador Programme

surely going to open up opportunities for other brands with more of a niche spa focus,” says Woods.

Winning Therapist of the Year has helped solidify Woods’s content with where she’s at in her career, though she feels a sense of duty to influence the next generation of therapists. “I’ve been visiting Blackburn

2018 Promoted to head of training and development

College to talk to the beauty therapy

2019 Wins Professional Beauty Therapist of the Year Award

for others in the industry so that they have

students about life working in a spa and how I won the award,” says Woods.

“I hope I can use it as a platform to speak access to the training they need and inspire them to be the best they can be.” PB

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Trend Watch

66

Under

THE SEA

Environmentally conscious clients are seeking out sunscreen formulas that do more than just protect the skin, but safeguard the marine environment too

S

unscreen is the latest everyday item to come under the scrutiny of environmentalists for its damaging effects on the planet. Ingredients including oxybenzone and octinoxate have long been used in sunscreen formulas to filter the sun’s rays away from the skin, keeping it protected. But relatively new research now attributes a substantial amount of coral reef damage, including bleaching, to these chemicals, sparking quick responses to try to stop the harm before it’s too late.

Hawaii passed a bill in May 2018 banning the sale of sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate in the state, after a study found its marine environment severely damaged; while Florida’s Key West followed suit in February this year. The ban will come into force in January 2021. Coral reefs may be the most diverse

ecosystem on the planet, and through the habitat they give to fish and other marine life, indirectly provide food for millions of humans.

While scientists agree that more thorough research needs to be conducted to determine the relationship between sunscreen and reef damage, environmentally aware consumers are starting to turn their backs on traditional suncare products in favour of reef-safe alternatives, at least when intending to apply them beachside. Marine-focused brand Thalgo was a frontrunner in developing ocean-friendly sun care, and now more brands are following suit. These four were quick to respond to the trend, launching reef-safe sun care formulas in time for summer 2019. PB

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Caudalie Suncare New for 2019, Caudalie’s first suncare range is intended to protect nature as well as the skin. Formulated without filters believed to be toxic to the marine ecosystem, such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, the products contain four filters with guaranteed non-toxicity from the Mediterranean Institute of Biodiversity and Ecology. There are five products in the range, Milky Sun Spray SPF30 and 50, Anti-wrinkle Face Suncare SPF 30 and 50, and Beautifying Suncare Oil SPF 30. Each contains Caudalie’s organic grape water and grapeseed oil, along with antioxidant ingredients including vitamin E and spruce extract.

Comfort Zone Water Soul SPF30 Formulated for people who play water sports, Comfort Zone’s new water-resistant sun cream spray was developed to have minimal impact on the aquatic environment. The spray doesn’t contain filters that are said to be harmful, such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. It is also packaged in a 100% recyclable bottle and made using renewable energy at Comfort Zone’s factory in Italy.

To protect the skin, the formula uses a DNA-defence biomimetic peptide that helps correct damage from light radiation.

Abyssinian oil, rich in omegas 6 and 9, helps hydrate and nourish skin by strengthening the lipid barrier.

Trend Watch

67

Clarins High Performance Sun Care Clarins’s new sun care range contains 10 protective formulas in SPF 30 and 50+, along with two after-sun products. Six of the products – Invisible Sun Care Gel-to-Oil, Dry Touch Sun Care Cream, Sun Care Oil Mist, Sun Care Lotion Spray, Sun Care Gel-to-Oil and Sun Care Cream – are marked with a symbol to indicate that the formula does not harm coral. The products use organic filters to absorb the sun’s UVA and UVB rays before they penetrate the skin, in textures that spread evenly for consistent coverage. A 100% plantbased complex of senna, baobab, plane tree, olive, pea and aloe vera offers cellular protection to help prevent signs of photoageing.

Ren Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30 Free from oxybenzone, octinoxate and avobenzone, Ren’s first suncare product has been formulated to provide “clean” protection through a mineral sunscreen that doesn’t harm the environment. It uses 22% non-nano, naturally derived zinc oxide for broadspectrum protection against UVA, UVB and blue light, with antioxidant passion fruit extract and rice starch for a matte finish. The product is packaged in a tube made from 50% recycled plastic, with a 100% recycledplastic cap. Both are 100% recyclable, and Ren has been awarded a recyclability certification from Suez for the packaging.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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SET YOUR STUDENTS UP FOR CAREER SUCCESS What’s on for colleges on Monday 14th October EDUCATION FORUM Discuss with leading employers and specialists how to get students into the industry

Bring 50+ students for a free Education Forum ticket plus a £20 voucher to spend at the show Email colleges@professionalbeauty.co.uk to register a group of students

INSPIRATION & TRAINING Seminars for just £1 per session for lecturers and students DO YOUR STUDENTS HAVE WHAT IT TAKES? Enter the make-up, nail and lash championships EXCLUSIVE LECTURER BENEFITS Free refreshments and drinks reception in the lounges DISCOUNTED COACH HIRE 50% off coach hire, courtesy of

Register for free tickets at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/collegetickets #PBNorth @pro_beauty ProfessionalBeautyUK pro_beauty01

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Sun Care

69

Use protection With cases of melanoma often harder to detect in black skins, it’s vital to ensure clients of colour take sun protection seriously, explains DIJA AYODELE, aesthetic therapist and founder of Black Skin Directory

B

lack Skin Directory (BSD) has launched a sun protection awareness campaign to shine a light on melanoma in the black population. BSD partnered with sun care brand Ultrasun on the campaign, which features a black woman in a video advert created to speak directly to people of colour (POC). The campaign aims to respond to the lack of sun protection messaging that targets POC, especially as recent research indicates the melanoma mortality rate is 1.5 times higher among the black population.

The same research report (titled Malignant Melanoma in African Americans) indicated that black people were four times more likely to present with advance stage IV melanoma than Caucasians. We spoke to BSD founder Dija Ayodele to find out how therapists can support the message.

Why has BSD decided to address this sun protection issue now?

Skin cancer appears to be getting more prevalent among the black population. BSD is trying to change the narrative and encourage the black community to appreciate the real risks of unprotected sun exposure by implementing safety measures like proper sunscreen application.

Black people are less likely to develop skin cancer because of the protection that melanin affords – black

skin, for example, has a natural SPF of about 13 – yet more likely than a white person to die from it. So, why are no agencies engaging with the black community to pass this information on?

How can therapists get their darkskinned clients using sun protection?

As skin experts, we know that sun protection products are key to any treatment. I always explain the UVA/UVB process to clients and how it causes damage to the skin, speaking plainly about the small level of protection black skin already has but emphasising that it’s insufficient and additional protection is needed.

Tell clients that expensive procedures and ingredients like laser, peels and vitamin A are pointless if they’re going to refuse to use sun protection to protect their skin post-treatment.

On occasion, I have even declined to treat a client if they won’t comply with sun protection as part of their treatment programme.

Hyperpigmentation and dark marks are always a big concern for skin of colour, so you could also explain how the sun can exacerbate these issues and how sunscreen can help lead to clearer skin long term. >

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Does the level of sun protection a client needs depend on the shade of their skin?

Black Skin Directory

Sun Care

70

The recommendation for everyone is at least an SPF30 broad-spectrum sunscreen, but if a person of colour is particularly fair and has sensitive skin that is prone to burning – especially if they say they’ve burnt before – advising them to use a higher SPF would be sensible.

too late, much later than in a Caucasian person.

It is associated with moles that start to change in colour, shape and size.

Where can therapists source sun care products that are formulated with black skins in mind?

Typically, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, present in physical sunscreens, are the ingredients that cause an unsightly white cast on black skin. Technology has advanced in leaps and bounds though, and a lot brands now make physical sunscreens that work perfectly well with black skin, such as those that use nano-particles, which reduces the residue left by the product.

Chemical sunscreens don’t leave any telltale signs; so many black clients tend to prefer these formulas. Look for filters such as oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate and octinoxate. Sun protection is available in many different formats now – like cream, oil, spray, gel and powder – so clients can find the product that works best for their skin and their lifestyle.

Of the three types of skin cancer – basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma – is one more common in black skins?

Squamous cell carcinoma is common in dark skin tones on the lower half of the body. It may present as a wart or a continually crusty sore. It is curable, but can also spread to lymph nodes, which can end up making it challenging.

Basal cell carcinoma is linked to excessive unprotected sun exposure and in dark skin is usually found on the top half of the body, like the head and neck.

Melanoma is less common in black people but is the deadliest; this is the skin cancer that has the highest mortality rate in the community as it is usually detected

Why does skin cancer often go undiagnosed in black people?

A lot of people make the false assumption that skin cancer always starts with a mole. While this can be the case, skin cancers can also develop from a cut or injury that just doesn’t seem to be healing, like a patch of skin that is constantly dry, rough or scaly. Skin cancer can be flat or even keloid-like in appearance.

Dark patches are harder to spot on black skin than Caucasian skin, which makes it even more important to check thoroughly and advise clients to seek further help from their GP or dermatologist if in doubt.

Even some medical professionals miss signs of skin cancer on black skin. They often aren’t exposed to these incidences in training, so they don’t always know what they are looking for.

Sometimes the misconception still exists that black skin simply doesn’t get cancer. This can be a hurdle even among professionals.

How can potential skin cancer be spotted in black clients?

The same thorough “ABCDE” [asymmetry, border, colour, diameter, evolving] mole check should be performed on all skin tones but therapists should be aware that among the black population, some skin cancers can develop in hard-to-spot places such as the nail beds, soles of the feet, bottom, groin, anus and in the mouth. PB

Dija Ayodele is a London-based aesthetician and beauty writer. She has a special interest and experience in skincare for women of colour and is the founder of Black Skin Directory, an online resource connecting women of colour to expert skincare professionals in the UK.

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Spa Design

73

REST assured We find out how Frensham Pond Hotel & Spa created a calming and comfortable space despite restraints following refurbishment

F

rensham Pond Hotel & Spa in Surrey is home to a five-treatment-room spa that includes a thermal suite and wet spa and offers treatments from Elemis. Part of the Hilton Hotels Group, the hotel unveiled its refurbished spa in April 2018, fitted out with furniture from spa furniture brand REM. “Our spa was designed to give guests an instant feeling of relaxation,” says spa manager Jyotsna Bhambure. “The interior design has to impart that on every guest, despite personal tastes. It also had to reflect the standards of the Hilton brand.”

This is why the chocolate-brown wood and grey base colour were chosen as the main colour scheme for the spa, to help guests feel calm and at ease. “One of the most prominent design features is the use of wood throughout, making guests feel they’re closer to nature,” says Bhambure.

REM’s rich praline laminate was chosen for all units, treatment couches and chairs, including the Soma Treatment Couch, finished with Clay and Slate tailored fabrics, bespoke Verona Vanity units with Egyptian Gold doors and draws, bespoke Natura Pedispa chairs upholstered in Nappa Aubergine – the purple accents throughout the spa reflect owner Kirit Patel’s favourite colour – Infiniti Nail Bars, Glow Make Up Units and Pedi and Clover Stools.

Into nature Situated on Frensham Great Pond, it was important that the spa reflected some of this spaciousness and tranquil

energy. “We wanted to incorporate some natural shades with the wood and grey, like with the blue accents in the treatment rooms,” explains Bhambure. “And we had the reception desk made in an oval shape to make the space feel very open.”

Creating a sense of space was a particular priority in the relaxation area, given its relatively compact size. “The furniture was chosen and installed to maximise our space, and this was especially important for the relaxation area. It was fitted out in a way that six people can comfortably relax on good size beds,” says Bhambure, adding: “The treatment rooms were built as square shapes, so choosing square units meant we could maximise that space too.”

On the decision to choose REM for the project, Bhambure says: “We did lots of research into furniture suppliers who could support us with an overall vision for the spa. We looked at REM’s portfolio and saw they could deliver the end result we wanted in the timescale we needed it completed by.”

She adds that the Frensham Pond team were “very happy” with “the way REM designed and built everything to such a high finish in a relatively short space of time.” PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Spa Furniture

74 Gharieni The Vintage collection from German brand Gharieni is inspired by retro furniture trends but with modern details.

The collection mimics the patchwork technique of cutting and sewing small pieces of fabric together to create larger textiles.

The items in the collection feature contrasting wood tones in a mix of of vertical and horizontal directions to create depth. The collection comprises the MLR-Select Vintage Treatment Bed and a matching Sideboard and Trolley.

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These new spa furniture pieces blend style and comfort to offer solutions that will impress sophisticated spa clients

Nilo

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With a built-in basin and options for pipe-free hydro massage, LED lights and a swivel chair, Nilo’s Foot Basic Pedicure Unit can be customised to meet a spa’s needs. The chair has rotating armrests, adjustable footrests and a backrest with neck pillow, plus a basin shower. It can be fitted for floor drainage or with a walldrainage pump. The chair is finished in a soft-touch PU cover with a wide range of colours available. £3,022 +39 0522 7631 (Maletti Group) nilo-beauty.com/en

Part of the Masters’ collection, the Britta treatment table from Oakworks has a low height with a 15-degree angle inclination and Trendlenburg tilt features. It can be configured with a heated mattress; warming drawers with silent-push open and close, storage options and the brand’s adjustable body comfort system. The Britta is available in laminate finishes including metallic, matte and wooden, with a range of aura soft upholstery options.

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professionalbeauty.co.uk

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75 Spa Furniture

Pevonia Natural beauty brand Pevonia has partnered with manufacturer Ionto-Spa on a new treatment bed.

The Sensity is a fully automatic, multi-use couch with two lifting columns and three divided cushion elements. The bed comes with an optional storage base cupboard, which can be further customised with a light bar in a spectrum of colours to help create ambience in the treatment room. A sound motion option programmes the couch with vibrations of music or sounds.

From £4,545 01449 727004 spaequipment.pevonia.co.uk

PJS Direct The Tensor Luxury Spa Couch has four motors to adjust the height, backrest, footrest and whole bed inclination. The armrests can also be adjusted separately to make treatments easier to perform. Easy-clean white PU upholstery covers the high-quality padded mattress, and the base is available in either a dark brown or light grey finish. The couch also has a breather hole. £1,795 01634 565005 beautysalonequipment.co.uk

REM The Dream Pedispa features a white ceramic basin, adjustable footrest and mixer tap with square lines. It is available in more than 20 different laminates and fabrics to suit any spa interior. These include leather, button and tailored finishes for the chair; and pine, flagstone and rustic oak laminates for the base. £1,740 01282 619977 rem.co.uk

Lemi With three electric adjustments for height, backrest and legrest and Lemi’s HBS stressrelief system of ergonomics, the Verona Evo was designed with maximum client comfort in mind. The mattress, with a fireresistant, anti-bacterial covering, can be customised by thickness and width. The bed can be positioned in both flat and upright positions, allowing for a range of treatments to comfortably take place, and the mattress can be customised in a wide range of colours.

Price on application +39 0374 363069 lemigroup.com/en

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Hot Topic

77

salon price war THE

MENTALITY

With new salons opening up every day, it’s becoming harder for established beauty businesses to withstand the competition. SAM PEARCE, owner of The Potting Shed Spa, explains why you shouldn’t enter into a discount war

A

s business owners, we know that the beauty industry is saturated and that we’re all fighting for the same customers, but how do we compete without devaluing our services? How do we put a price on what we do and bravely stick with it?

Competition has, without question, brought about a price war, and one that some clients are using to their advantage. It’s now common practice to discuss with customers the reasons why you don’t offer two-for-one discounts or buy-one-get-one-free (BOGOF) deals.

Any good salon owner recognises patterns in spend, seasonal changes, fluidity of change and the continual growth of new businesses popping up every five minutes, and all this requires adaptation in pricing.

Therefore, I will never understand why clients think it is acceptable to haggle over a fixed-priced service that takes skill and education to perform. If you go out for a meal and the cost of your food is set, you wouldn’t dream of saying to the waiter, “that’s great, but can I have it for £X instead?”

made to feel as comfortable as possible in a beautifully designed environment.

The truth is, you can’t mass market what it is that you as an individual offer, which is why you have to recognise how special your skill set is, and selling in bulk not only devalues your services but becomes mechanical in practise, demoralising staff.

If you panic and lower your prices out of fear then you will attract the wrong clientele, and this is almost impossible to recover from.

If you’re competent, confident and true to your own brand, business and self, then price should never be an issue. It should be an agreement between you and your customer – that they should never have to question what you choose to charge for your services because their understanding and decision to use your salon is based on mutual respect.

As American business magnate Warren Buffett said, “price is what you pay, value is what you get”. PB

I will never understand why clients think it is acceptable to haggle over a fixed-priced service that takes skill and education to perform

Know your worth As beauty therapists, we offer so much more than a nice set of nails or good massage and it’s this that you need to make clients aware of. We listen without judgment, we serve, we keep secrets, we treat generations of families, we tailor the experience and we consider every aspect of the customer journey.

This kind of service is priceless; not to mention the unadvertised extras we offer for free to make the experience even more enjoyable, such as complimentary drinks, a hot water bottle in the winter, iced towels in the summer and being

Sam Pearce is founder of The Potting Shed Spa in Yorkshire, which won Large Beauty Salon of the Year at the 2019 Professional Beauty Awards.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Make-up

78

inclusive ALL

The make-up industry is becoming a diverse, inclusive and empowered space.

Amanda Pauley explores the rise of shade-inclusive ranges and investigates how brands are embracing all ages, races and genders in their products

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for some time. “Gotta represent for my girls and we come in all shades, especially my brown sisters… been left out too many times in the make-up world,” Rihanna said about the launch.

The trend has now evolved into an industry standard, with the likes of cult brand Morphe following suit with its huge 60-shade Fluidity Full-Coverage Foundation range for those with a “lack of options”.

“We saw this as an opportunity to do the right thing… so that everyone, based on depth of colour

Morphe Fluidity Foundation arm swatches

he make-up industry is more shade-inclusive than ever before and it’s easily the most exciting shift to happen in the sector for decades – with the days of only being able to pick a foundation from a handful of colours such as porcelain, beige, tan or mocha long over.

One of the figureheads of this movement is singer Rihanna, who launched her 40-shade-strong Fenty foundation line in 2017, which sold out on its debut because it captured an audience that has been ignored

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HD Brows

Make-up

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and undertone, can find their true hue,” explains Janine Gettinger, vice president of global brand development for consumer cosmetics brand Morphe. “This isn’t just a trend, it’s how make-up should be.”

Those who don’t evolve are now facing harsh criticism from customers. Tarte Cosmetics, for example, suffered an Instagram backlash for the limited colour choice in its Shape Tape Foundation line – the bottom line being that inclusion sells.

Going mainstream The best thing is this “disruption” is happening in all forms, especially in terms of make-up brands addressing other groups who should be spoken to more. With one in three British men predicted to be wearing make-up by 2020, according to research by male make-up line MMUK Man, prestige brands Chanel and Tom Ford have launched male-specific cosmetic lines.

Plus, influencers such as beauty YouTuber James Charles, who has 16.1 million Instagram followers, are helping to disrupt gender stereotypes associated with make-up by connecting with both men and women. Pro and consumer make-up brands alike are tackling these traditional stereotypes, evolving in tandem with the rise of gender fluidity.

“Everyone wants to feel beautiful and shouldn’t be restricted because of their race, gender or age, and make-up brands are really getting to grips with that and breaking the boundaries of what was typically set before,” says Betsy-Dora Turner, PB’s Make-up Specialist of the Year 2019 and owner of Betsy Makeup Studios in Lancashire.

Accessible make-up is also trending thanks to new brands such as Grace Beauty, which is hitting the market this year with a range of disability-friendly mascaras, having developed three different handles that will help those with mobility issues to maintain a better grip.

But what does this movement mean for MUAs? Well, it’s about adapting your kit and becoming educated on the challenges facing customers. “You need to do more research into the brands you stock and think carefully about the client you’re working with,” says Turner.

“For example, a nude lip for a Caucasian client will not be the same as a nude lip for an Asian customer. It’s understanding that ‘nude’ isn’t just your pale colours anymore, it's about being able to cater to every skin type.”

To help you update your kit, we’ve rounded up the best “inclusive” launches from the pro make-up brands. >

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Salon & Spa Connect Looking to find business solutions?

Join your fellow professionals to share experiences, knowledge and tips at a friendly and informal networking event.

BOOK TODAY AT www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/networking RETAILING • STAFF MANAGEMENT • CUSTOMER RETENTION OPERATIONS • FINANCE • LOW COST COMPETITION 7704 Spa Networking Lunch NORTH19 June.indd 1

13/05/2019 16:55

Mii Cosmetics

Make-up

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BEST FOR…

y t i v i s u l c n s ha de i MII COSMETICS VELVET RADIANCE FACE BASE

Diversity is at the heart of Mii’s satin-matte perfecting foundation collection. Available in 16 shades, which range from pale to dark tones, the formula provides a natural-looking base and is infused with fresh carrot cells and seaweed extract to boost hydration. A campaign showcasing the make-up on Afro-Caribbean and Vietnamese models accompanies the range, created in collaboration with make-up artist Anna Priadka.

Trade: £14 0345 201 0825 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

JANE IREDALE PUREPRESSED BASE MINERAL FOUNDATION This four-in-one product – foundation, concealer, powder and broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 20 – is available in an impressive 26 shades, from light hues Ivory and Satin, to warmer colours Cognac, Bittersweet, Cocoa and Mahogany. It’s made from micronised minerals and contains antioxidant pomegranate extract to help minimise UV damage.

Trade: £17.50 020 8450 2020 (IIAA) janeiredale.co.uk

AIRBASE ULTRA FOUNDATION This airbrush system uses a formulation combining breathable silicone and vitamins A and E to deliver a flawless finish for all skin tones, including Asian, African, Latino and Caucasian. It has seven core foundation shades, ranging from Porcelain 00 to Ebony 06, which can be combined with the brand’s bronzer or three blushers to warm up or deepen the tone.

RRP: £36 for a 30ml foundation, £295+VAT for the full system 0115 967 8691 airbasemakeup.com

MUD LIQUID FOUNDATION This rich and creamy liquid foundation is formulated with aloe vera and shea butter to hydrate, while giving a lightweight coverage that allows skin to breathe. Available in 10 diverse shades – including D1, D2 and D3 for darker complexions – the range caters to the lightest and darkest skin tones.

RRP: £27 03333 111555 (Re:new Beauty) mudstudio.co.uk

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HD Brows

Make-up

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BEST FOR…

s t n e i l c e r u mat

TOP TIP “When creating a classic smoky eye for mature clients, use a range of tones, keeping it soft and light. Then, using a dark eyeshadow powder, line the lid to open up the area and create definition,” says Rebecca Cathcart, lead make-up artist for HD Brows

LOOK FABULOUS FOREVER COVER TO COVER CONCEAL Look Fabulous Forever has developed a range of “pro-age” make-up specifically for mature women, using formulations that work well on older skin, which can hold more challenges for application. A standout product is Cover to Cover Conceal – a concealer formulated with tea tree oil to keep crêpey skin hydrated and provide strong coverage for under-eye bags and age spots.

RRP: £19 020 7025 1350 lookfabulousforever.com

HD BROWS EYE&BROW PALETTE The Eye&Brow Palette is a go-to for skin that lacks elasticity, featuring vitamin C and E-infused eye shadow powders that are easily blendable, preventing unsightly product build up. It also includes a reflective highlighter to brighten a sagging eye area. The palette is available in three shades: Bombshell, Foxy and Vamp. To prove its commitment to inclusivity, the brand featured a 50-plus-aged model in its latest Love Yourself More campaign.

Trade: £17.20 0113 224 7908 hdbrows.com

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08/05/2019 09:59

p u ~ e k a m g d ra BEST FOR…

KRYOLAN TV PAINT STICK

This multi-functional base and contour product is popular among the drag community for creating longlasting make-up designs. Available in more than 120 shades, the cream stick foundation allows for precise application and can be tailored to suit the client’s needs, from sheer to full coverage. The product’s mineral oil base hydrates skin while providing staying power against sweat and heat.

RRP: £17.20 020 7240 3111 kryolan.com

Photographer Jayesh Pankhania for Kryolan’s Diverse Beauty calendar

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ARTDECO NO COLOUR SETTING POWDER

Enriched with Irish moss and mineral water to nourish skin, as well as microfine particles to hold foundation in place, this translucent powder can be used on any skin tone to give a matte finish, making it a great product to have in your kit when doing drag make-up.

Use it as part of your baking technique to get a lasting crease-free finish.

RRP: £30.30 028 9061 7403 (Chleo Enterprises) chleoenterprises.co.uk

DRAG QUEEN MAKE~UP KNOW HOW PB’s Make-up Specialist of the Year 2019 Betsy-Dora Turner reveals her top tips for executing perfect drag make-up: • TAME THOSE BROWS “Use a glue stick to flatten the brows, applying it in one direction to keep the hairs really close to the skin,” says Turner. “Let the glue dry and then cover it up using concealer, also applying this in one direction to get a neat finish. You can then create a new brow shape higher on the face.”

• LAYER IT UP “ Drag make-up is a glam look which involves heavy foundation. Use a big buffing brush to pat foundation on to the skin, but work with more product than usual to get that full coverage, then keep layering,” explains Turner. “This patting technique is also mattifying, giving a nice airbrushed effect.”

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CLAIM YOUR FREE SAMPLE Use code: PROBJUNE at radiantglo.co.uk to order either: 3 x 125ml Sample Pack or 1 x 250ml Solution of your choice and all you need to pay is the £3.95 delivery cost!

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14/05/2019 12:36

BECOME A MEMBER OF THE UK’S LEADING MAGAZINE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY, NAIL AND SPA INDUSTRIES

Join us as a PB Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to membership lounges at Professional Beauty Shows Discounted Professional Beauty Insurance Plus much, much more

Find us on @pro_beauty pro_beauty01 ProfessionalBeautyUK

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13/05/2019 16:39

Launch Analysis

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Out of the

ordinary

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A two-storey mega spa is opening next to Cheshire-based Carden Park Hotel in August, promising an unrivalled wellness offer.

AMANDA PAULEY gets a first look at The Spa at Carden

romising to deliver the ultimate wellness experience on home soil is a big feat, which is why tongues are wagging about the launch of The Spa at Carden in August. The £10 million spa resort is not only mega in size – a 4,500sq ft building sat alongside award-winning Carden Park Hotel in 1,000 acres of privately owned Cheshire countryside estate – but also big in its promise to “be more of an experience than just a spa facility”.

Spa director Steve Ewing tells me that the “big” investment is the perfect way for the hotel owners to expand the business, having watched the spa industry evolve into a thriving market. This is why the outdated hotel-based spa is shutting and a new two-storey spa building is opening.

“There’s been a huge movement within the holiday industry towards staycations, with people as happy to have a break in the UK as they are to go abroad,” says Ewing. “There’s also a real change in what spa-goers want from their break – consumers are tired of conveyor-belt experiences where they have a standard treatment and lunch and then move on. We’re trying to break the mould by delivering a bespoke service that means something.”

The spa’s concept is focused on the mental and physical health benefits of nature and wellbeing, with every aspect

of the journey – from facilities to treatments – bringing some element of the outside in.

Call of nature A big part of the build is the 2,500sq ft spa garden, which will include an outdoor infinity pool, three hot tubs, a fire pit, central cocktail bar, garden sauna with two glass walls to give panoramic views of the countryside, outdoor shower, and multiple loungers and shelters.

This is situated near to the estate’s three-acre vineyard, where the business creates its own sparkling wine, Carden Park Estate Reserve.

“The spa garden is based around the five element theory, that for true fulfilment and happiness you need a balance between the core elements – earth, fire, metal, water and wood,” explains Ewing. This is matched with the spa’s nature-themed interior design and core product house Elemental Herbology, a brand that’s based on the same theory.

“It’ll be a conscious journey for clients.

We will define which element they need more of to find that balance and then give the customer a ‘prescription’ via our treatments >

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Launch Analysis

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and facilities, as well as guests being able to find that bricks and mortar, which is what is so exciting element in the spa’s surroundings,” he adds. “There will about being here,” he says. also be a herb garden, with items grown used in Brexit has been a consideration, especially treatments as another nice follow through with the theme.” when talking to product houses and suppliers.

The inside of the spa is equally impressive, housing “No one really knows what’s going to happen a restaurant with a rooftop terrace, 14 treatment rooms, so there are questions I’ve had to ask suppliers, an infinity pool with heated jets, such as how could leaving thermal suite (salt steam room, the EU affect delivery times Opening: August 2019 tepidarium, aroma steam room, and pricing?”, explains Ewing.

Size: 4,500sq ft bio sauna, experience showers “You have to make sure you’re Budget: £10 million and Finnish sauna), and a getting products in at the right Treatment rooms: 14 manicure and pedicure space price, otherwise your whole Staff: 67 (32 therapists, 35 people for – The Beauty Bar by Bollinger – in business model changes back of house, operations and F&B) partnership with the because you’re paying more Brands: Elemental Herbology champagne producer. for everything.”

There will also be three relaxation zones: a sensory room, which houses funky loungers and a video transmission of beautiful images of nature; traditional relaxation room, with star-like lights and beds to aid relaxation; and a panoramic relaxation space, which has floor-to-ceiling glass walls so guests can enjoy the views of the Cheshire countryside.

“The idea is that you’re inside but feel like you’re outside.

We’re trying to create ‘wow’ moments,” says Ewing.

Signed, sealed, delivered However, a big challenge for Ewing has been managing the build and making sure the facility delivers. “I’ve previously worked with chains such as Macdonald Hotels, Mercure and International Hotels, learning the trade and earning my stripes, but I’ve never been able to move the

When the facility opens, it will have a team of 32 therapists (21 of whom are crossing over from the old spa).

The spa will focus on recruiting and retaining staff by offering extensive training, a good culture and additional benefits. For example, Ewing has just introduced levels of pay based on experience for spa therapists as an incentive for them to upskill.

“There’s no doubt that there’s a shortage of therapists coming into the industry, but I feel a responsibility to help stop the churn. I want the industry’s best to work here and, of course, money is a driver, but people want more than that – they want to feel a part of something bigger,” explains Ewing. PB

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Promotional Feature

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Allergy ALERT testing Allergy alert tests and skin sensitivity checks are vital to keep your clients safe and protect your business against potentially expensive legal action, says the NBF

“

Y

ou’ll need to carry out allergy alert tests for permanent hair colour and some semi-permanent colour products including eyebrow tinting, eyelash tinting, and colouring facial or other body hair,” says Caroline Larissey, director of quality and standards at the National Beauty Federation (NBF). “But remember that clients under the age of 16 should never be offered hair colour treatments, which means they cannot be offered allergy alert tests either.”

Frequency of testing You will not need to carry out an allergy alert test every time clients come to your salon, says Larissey, but it will be necessary if it’s their first visit, the first time they have had a treatment involving the colour, or you are changing to a different brand or product.

“You will also need to carry out an allergy alert test if your client has had any type of tattoo, including temporary ‘black henna’ tattoos, or an allergic reaction to other products used in beauty treatments since their last visit,” explains Larissey.

Allergy alert tests should be carried out at least 48 hours before appointments as it can take this length of time for reactions to develop.

Peace-of-mind toolkit The NBF has developed a comprehensive allergy alert and sensitivity-testing toolkit specifically for beauty salons and therapists. “It contains everything you need for complete peace of mind,” says Caroline, “including a detailed guide to testing, GDPR-compliant client healthcare questionnaires and consultation forms.”

The kit is free (£10 P&P) to NBF members and is available for pre-order. Find out more at nhf.info/beauty-allergy-kit

treatment, carry out a skin sensitivity test,” says Larissey.

“This will help to ensure your client will be comfortable with factors such as the product to be used, temperature (for example, with wax or hot stones), noise, and sensation (for example, for laser hair removal or for pressure during massage).” Find out more about health and safety in your beauty salon at nhf.info/H&S-beauty

Insurance The NBF works in partnership with Coversure Insurance Services to provide value-for-money insurance specifically designed for beauty salons. NBF members benefit from a 20% discount. Insurance is also available for self-employed therapists. Find out more at nhf.info/beautyinsurance “You must have the necessary qualifications to carry out the treatments you want to offer or your insurance will not be valid,” warns Larissey. Download the NBF’s qualifications and age restrictions fact sheet at nhf.info/beautyquals

Stay safe and legal A health and safety kit designed for beauty salons is available to NBF members at the discounted price of £80 (full price to non-members: £115). Find out more at nhf.info/beautyH&Skit

The NBF For less than 75p a day, the National Beauty Federation will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us. The NBF is the sister trade association of the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF).

Find out more at nhf.info/nbf Join the NBF before the end of June 2019 and quote PBJ25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Sensitivity testing Sensitive skin can result in unpleasant side-effects during treatment, but that is not the same as having an allergic reaction. However, it’s still good practice to protect your clients from any potential discomfort. “Before any

Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965

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FOR BEAUTY THERAPISTS, NAIL TECHNICIANS, HAIRDRESSERS & SALON OWNERS

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For nail technicians From £39.50 per year

For students working their way towards a hair, nail or beauty qualification For just £20 per year

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In association with Professional Beauty Direct Contact the team: T: 0345 605 8670 E: info@professionalbeautydirect.co.uk

www.professionalbeautydirect.co.uk Professional Beauty Direct is a trading name of InEvexco Ltd, 2019. InEvexco Limited is authorised and regulated by the FCA, registered number 579079

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14/05/2019 09:38

Staff Strategy

91

CHANGES

to payment

law

April saw major changes in payslips, rates of pay and the way salaries are recorded. DAVID WRIGHT explains what this means for salons

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he requirement to give staff a payslip has been around since the Payment of Wages Act 1991, but from April this year, there have been new rules in place that could catch employers out.

Employees already have the right to receive payslips irrespective of the number of hours they work, or even if they are on a zero-hours contract.

Legally, employees should receive their payslip on or before payday and it must show earnings before and after any deductions.

What’s new Firstly, workers, as well as employees, are now entitled to a payslip (see PB April page 131 for a description of who is deemed to be a worker rather than an employee).

Secondly, the payslip must now show the number of hours worked if pay varies with the amount of work done.

Only employees on a fixed monthly salary are excluded from this. If employees have different jobs in the salon and get different hourly rates then this must clearly be shown.

For example, someone might undertake 10 hours as a therapist and 20 on reception at different rates. The idea is that with the advent of zero-hours contracts, employees are clear what they have actually been paid for.

The legislation is brand new and no doubt in due course cases will go to employment tribunal for interpretation. The tribunal might order that a payslip should have been issued but, more significantly, it can order repayment of unnotified deductions made in the 13 weeks prior to the presentation of the claim.

This means that where an employee works additional hours or their hours vary, they must be shown on the payslip.

Even where someone gets a fixed monthly salary, if they are

paid for overtime then those extra hours have to be shown. This isn’t onerous; it’s acceptable just to have a column showing the total number of additional hours worked.

What else has changed?

Pensions also changed on April 6 – the minimum contribution to auto-enrolment workplace pensions increased from 5% to 8% of qualifying earnings. The 8% is made up of both employer and employee contribution, with employers’ minimum now 3% (up from 2%), though it is possible for the employer to pay a higher amount.

A number of statutory rates also changed in April. Statutory sick pay is now £94.25 per week subject to employee earnings of at least £118 per week; statutory maternity or paternity pay is now up to £148.68 per week; the earnings requirement has increased to £118 per week; redundancy pay is capped at £15,750 based on a maximum £525 per week and 30 weeks’ pay; unfair dismissal is capped at £86,444.

The national minimum wage hourly rates changed to £8.21 for ages 25 and over; £7.70 21 to 24-year-olds; £6.15 for those aged 18 to 20; £4.35 for school-leaving age to 17; and £3.90 for apprentices.

Employers have been tripped up by just dividing the annual salary at the minimum wage by 12 to get a monthly figure. This is not correct as the number of working days, and therefore hours, per month can vary significantly. Showing the actual hours worked in a particular month can save any unnecessary embarrassment and a fine. PB

David Wright is a consultant in all aspects of employment practice and law. He is the main employment law consultant for Habia and provides a personalised support service for UK salons.

Tel: 01302 563691 davidwrightpersonnel.co.uk

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Nail Notes

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SOMETHING BLUE What do you do when the bride-to-be wants you to make her nails a showstopping blue for the big day? Award-winning tech Katie Barnes reveals how to create a chic and modern sky-blue wedding mani

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ith wedding season in full swing, it’s important for techs to have an array of nail art inspiration in their arsenal to cater for every bride – from those who love a classic nude or edgy negative space, to the bold and embellished.

Getting it right is crucial as their nails will be a big part of the day – they are putting a ring on that finger, after all.

So, if the bride-to-be is stuck for something blue, why not suggest she opt for these almond-shaped, bluish-grey nails with chic pearl embellishment, created by PB’s Nail Professional of the Year 2018 Katie Barnes?

The award-winning tech talks us through how to create this signature look…

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Nail Notes

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GET THE LOOK 1. Prep nails by pushing back cuticles and removing shine with a 240 grit file. Then, remove the dust and use a dehydrator 2. Apply almond-shape nail forms to each nail, fully closed from a bird's-eye view and slightly down from the side 3. Use a pink acrylic to sculpt each enhancement and pinch if required, then file and buff nails into shape, removing dust 4. Apply two coats of a blue-grey gelpolish, such as IBD’s Just Gel Polish in Calm Oasis, curing each coat. Then, apply a non-wipe top coat and cure.

Repeat the process on each nail 5. On the ring fingers, use a fine line brush and a white art gel, such as Crystal Nails Art Gel, to draw on four roses, framing the edge of the nail.

Start by sketching two semi colons to create the centre of the first flower, then ensure the next petal overlaps each gap from the previous layer.

Cure for two minutes.

7. When you’re happy with the application, peel the skin guard off and apply a non-wipe top coat.

Using the same blue-grey gel-polish from step four, paint a border near the cuticles on each nail, using the same white gel-polish lacquer from step six to create a border between the stamped nail art and the crescent moon shape 8. Attach five pearls to the white border on each little finger. Place one in the centre and then the other four cascading down to form an upside-down U shape. PB

If the gel starts self-levelling, freeze cure each flower or a few of the petals for approximately 10 seconds. To give a 3D effect, create extra height by layering up the art gel. Repeat this process on the index fingers 6. On the remaining nails, apply a liquid, peel-off skin protect material such as Crystal Nails Skin Guard, then use a stamping floral plate with a white stamping lacquer to create a fine-lined flower pattern. Remove any residue and dust from the stamper with a lint-free roller

Nails: Katie Barnes Hair and make-up: Hannah-Louise Field Photography: Arienne Jonas Model: Rachael Gidlow

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Treatment News

95 Natural Spa Factory I Am Man Ahead of Father’s Day, Natural Spa Factory has launched a suite of six treatments for men. The 60-minute Volcanic Blast Resurfacing Facial uses black volcanic sand blast harvested from Iceland for deep exfoliaition and also incorporates face, shoulder, arm and hand massage and a charcoal sheet mask.

Granite Back & Foot Recharge (60 minutes) uses organic zero-waste granite scrub to unblock pores and also includes a massage. The 30-minute Charcoal Detox Facial features a charcoal-enriched detoxing face wrap, while Scrum Down Scrub (60 minutes) is an energising lime and lemongrass salt scrub followed by a minty invigorating massage. In Bearded Brethren Boost with a Twist (15-20 minutes), the beard is

Fresh

LOOK

detangled, massaged and cleansed, before nails are tidied. Finally, the 15 to 20-minute No Sweat Face Gym includes a cleanse and scrub, plus a massage.

Natural Spa Factory recommends charging around £1 per minute for all the treatments.

Contact the brand on 01225 582888

A new selection of deep cleansing and resurfacing treatments launch this month to brighten and refresh clients’ skin without any downtime

This month we tried… Dermalogica Pro Power Peel 60 The lowdown: Dermalogica has launched three potent Pro Power Peels. UltraBright works on dull skin with 30% lactic acid; PowerClear addresses blemishes and pigmentation with 2% salicylic, 10% mandelic and 15% malic acid, plus a patented Terpineol-Thymol Complex; while AdvancedRenewal targets wrinkles with 30% glycolic acid.

Pro Power is available as a 60-minute treatment, combined with advanced techniques such as LED and customised masks, or an express 30-minute service.

The experience: Having experienced one of the worst breakouts on my chin in my adult life (no exaggeration), I couldn’t wait to have an expert get to work on the inflammation. My 60-minute treatment took place at Dermalogica’s salon in Chelsea, with the brand’s training specialist Sarah Almond.

After a double cleanse, Almond analysed my skin, noting light pigmentation and an inflamed breakout before deciding on the PowerClear Peel.

After applying One-Step Prep, a leave-on solution that degreases skin, PowerClear was

applied to reduce oil production and post-inflammatory pigmentation. It was left on for 20 minutes and Almond regularly asked me to score the sensation out of 10. I was surprised at how well my skin tolerated the peel, only ever feeling a slight tingle.

Neutralizing Solution with hydroxphenyl propamidobenzoic acid was then applied to rebalance the pH, followed by an Ion Active Serum and mask to calm. 10 minutes of blue LED helped reduce inflammation, before the treatment finished with toner, moisturiser and SPF 50.

The verdict: Although I experienced a few days of light peeling, my skin looked incredible. Its tone was much more even and my breakouts massively reduced.

Business benefits: This treatment will bring in customers who want to transition from traditional to more advanced facials but feel nervous. It’s customisable, so as the skin becomes more tolerant, the layers can be upped to a maximum of five to boost results.

Tried by Amanda Pauley Dermalogica recommends charging £70 for the 60-minute facial. Call the brand on 0800 917 7147 professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

96 Light Elegance The pro nail brand has launched a range of manicure and pedicure products. Q&Lu Spa Essentials contain mint, lavender, basil and tea tree oils, chosen for their antiinflammatory and antifungal properties.

The range includes: Bamboo Lotion, for massage without greasy residue; Bamboo Polish, with volcanic ash to gently exfoliate; Salt Soak, with a foaming action to soften cuticles and calluses; and Spa Oil, with a base of grape seed and sunflower oils.

Trade: from £8.95 for the 237ml lotion 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Mani moment

There are plenty of treats for nail techs among this month’s launches, from powders for dipping and art to summer polishes and spa products to elevate mani and pedi services

ANP New from Advanced Nutrition Programme (ANP) is Skin Aesthetic Post-Procedure Pack. Each pack contains 28 tear-off pods with 19 key vitamins and nutrients to support the skin in recovery from non-invasive procedures such as skin needling, laser and resurfacing treatments. Each pod contains ANP supplements Skin Vit C, Skin Antioxidant, Skin CoQ10+, Skin Omegas+ and Skin Collagen Support. Some of the ingredients contained within are turmeric root, bilberry extract, lycopene and beta carotene.

Trade: £35 020 8450 2020 (IIAA) iiaa.eu

Jessica The nail brand’s summer Custom Colour and Geleration collection is called California Girl. Inspired by brand founder Jessica Vartoughian’s Californian roots, the colours are: Ocean Waves, a turquoise blue; Valley Girl, cupcake pink; Cool in the Pool, cool blue; Malibu Barbie, flamingo pink glitter; Desert Sunset, tropical peach; and Popsicle Kisses, coral pink. For Phenom long-wear polish, the What’s the Scoop collection comprises Cherry on Top, cerise pink; Pistachio, pistachio green; and Honey Lavender, pale lilac.

Trade: £5.50 per Custom Colour 14.8ml, £17.75 per Geleration 15ml, £6.75 per Phenom 14ml 020 8381 7793 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Mii Coral Haze is a new addition to Mii’s Celestial Skin Shimmer range. The coral hue is in keeping with Pantone’s Colour of the Year. The six shades within the new palette can be blended into one and swept across cheeks and temples, or applied individually and layered over eyelids. It joins the two existing palettes in the range – pinky Rose Quartz and bronze Aurora.

Trade: £6.75 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

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Jane Iredale To celebrate its 25th anniversary, the mineral make-up brand is launching the limitededition Complexion Perfection Kit. The kit contains four of founder Jane Iredale’s favourite products: Pure Pressed Base Mineral Foundation with SPF 15 or 30, Handi Brush, a flat brush with vegan bristles; Pommisst Hydration Spray with antioxidant pomegranate extract and a Refillable Compact. Clients can customise the kit with their shade of foundation.

Trade: £39 020 8450 2020 (IIAA) iiaa.eu

Dermalogica

Elemis Salt Scrub is a new addition to the Sea Lavender & Samphire body care collection.

The scrub’s detoxifying zeolite sea salt base is blended with sea lavender, rich in antioxidants, and samphire extract, used for its high vitamin C and mineral salt content. On massaging into damp skin, the product turns into a rich foam to buff away rough patches and condition the skin. The scrub joins Bath & Shower Milk and Body Cream in the Sea Lavender & Samphire collection.

RRP: £38 for 200ml 0117 316 1888 elemis.com

New Age Bright Clearing Serum and Age Bright Spot Fader are specifically formulated to tackle adult acne.

The serum contains salicylic acid to exfoliate skin and help reduce breakouts, while niacinamide and white shitake mushroom are included to brighten and even skin tone. Billed as a two-in-one brightening spot treatment, the Spot Fader helps reduce the appearance of active breakouts while clearing post-breakout marks.

The brand’s age bright complex prevents overdrying of the skin.

RRP: £58.50 for the serum 30ml, £40.50 for the spot fader 15ml 0800 917 7147 dermalogica.co.uk

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Matis Paris

Hive The latest line from Hive aims to give a superfood boost to waxing. The Superberry Blend Antioxidant range includes a crème wax (425g) rich in vitamins A, B, C and E, with anti-inflammatory properties, Pre Wax Cleansing Spray (400ml), a light cleansing spray with a berry aroma, and After Wax Treatment Lotion (400ml) with vitamins and antioxidants to soothe and restore skin.

Trade: from £3.95 to £6.25 0845 450 4802 hiveofbeauty.co.uk

The French Skincare brand has added a new product to its Reponse Teint line.

Hyalu Liss Primer works as a make-up base and also has anti-ageing properties. It contains microspheres of hyaluronic acid, which increase in volume within the skin to create a plumping effect on fine lines.

Smoothing micro-powders then help to give a velvety finish.

Trade: £13.50 for 15ml 0191 510 5003 matis-paris.com

Germaine de Capuccini The skincare brand has added five new products to its suncare range. Blue Active Hydra-Refreshing Tan Activating Mist is a light spray to help intensify a tan while refreshing skin; Blue Protective Oil & Water BiPhase Moisturising Sun Lotion SPF30 is water-resistant and enriched with jeju volcanic water; Moisturising Sun Milk is available in SPF50 and 15 and uses “anti-sand” technology to repel sand from sticking to the skin; and Activating Bronzing Oil SPF20 is a dry oil that adds a luminous finish to the skin, with carrot and apricot oils.

Trade: from £18.35 for the mist 200ml 0845 600 0203 gdcspa.co.uk

Gellux Soul Sister is the new summer collection from Salon System’s Gellux gel-polish brand.

The eight-strong line features four subtle nudes and four brights. Sugar Addiction is magenta, Slumber Party a pink-nude tone, Double Dating a bubblegum pink, Boy Trouble hot orange, Shopaholic soft pink, Girlfriends a stronger pink, BFF rich purple and Gossip Girl a bright green.

Trade: £11.95 each for 15ml 020 8573 9907 salonsystem.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Lecenté New from Lecenté are Nail Shadows, a collection of pearlescent powders that can be brushed or pressed onto nails combined with CND Shellac gel polish to create bespoke colours and effects. The powders can be used in a multitude of ways, such as for chrome and metallic effects, stamping, as filler between glitter in ombré designs; or as a highly pigmented paste for embossing when mixed with clear Shellac or Vinylux. There are eight colours ranging from Berry Violet to Golden Blue.

Trade: £3.99 each 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Thalgo The French skincare brand has launched two more limited-edition products for summer. The Freshness line comprises Hydrating Body Mist with maris aqua and laminara digitata to revitalise, plus Shower Foam with Brown algae extract and laminaria hyperborean, rich in minerals.

Also new from Thalgo is Make-up Removing Cleansing Gel-Oil, which melts on contact with skin.

Trade: £8.50 for the foam 150ml, £18.50 for the mist 100ml, £13.50 for the gel-oil 125ml 020 7512 0872 thalgo.co.uk

Mavala

ASP The nail products brand is launching four new shades of Quick-Dip Powders in time for summer. The bright neon shades are billed as giving up to 21 days of high-gloss colour with the durability of acrylic but the same easy removal as soak-off gel. The colours are: Electrifying Yellow, Orange Disco, Omg Pink and Rude (coral). The Neon Pop shades are available as a collection or individually.

Trade: £6.65 each, £19.95 for the collection 0330 123 1907 (Salon Services) salon-services.com

For high summer, Mavala’s Dash & Splash collection comprises six hot polish shades.

Naive Mint is a muted pale green; Fancy Pink a strong fuchsia; Magnetic Purple is a bold violet, Psychedelic Lime a citrus shade with flecks of gold; Versatile Red a bright pillar-box shade; and Vibrant Turquoise an azure blue.

Trade: £2.93 each for 5ml 01732 459412 mavala.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Classified

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Career Path

104

How to make it as an...

Association CHAIR Babtac chair Lesley Blair explains the challenges and rewards of chairing a beauty association and campaigning for change, and how to make it to the top

1. Involve yourself in the association first

It’s surprised me how slow it is to get some sort of

“My lecturers at college were very pro Babtac – that was

regulation in place and the fight we’ve got on our

definitely the association you had to be a part of – so

hands to do it. It’s at the top of my agenda because I

I joined when I was 18 and have been a member ever

think our industry is being ruined by short courses that

since. After I did teacher training, I went on to become a

people can do with no underpinning training. Short

Cibtac examiner and met a lot of people on the board

courses have their place but what worries me is people

at examiner meetings, where I was asked if I’d consider

who are working in a bank on a Friday then by Monday

joining. So, I was a member of the board for a number of

they’re out doing dermal fillers.

years before I was voted in as vice chair, and then chair

“Some medics don’t want us doing advanced

and knew the organisation. I think that’s so important –

treatments and I can see their point for some treatments

it’s a big job so you have to know what you’re getting into

but there needs to be some distinction because

and be confident your values match.”

traditional therapists are amazing – they’ve done their

2. No two days are the same “As chair of the board, I spearhead all the directives but I’m also involved in the day-to-day running of the

training, their CPD, they keep themselves current; what we’re trying to fight against is the ‘one-day’ beauty therapists out there.”

business. My role is full-time but in a lot of associations the

4. Do it for the right reasons

chair is voluntary. The role is really diverse – I could be in

“You need to be passionate about qualifications,

Westminster meeting with MPs to talk about regulation,

standards and compliance; not everyone can get

then I might be meeting with stakeholders like City &

excited about these things. If you’re motivated by money

Guilds because we’re working together on focus groups.

or self-promotion then yes, it might help your profile, but

“I was also on the steering group for the advanced

ultimately you’re not going to help the association.

aesthetics National Occupational Standards, and the

Babtac is not for profit, so as long as we’re not losing

stakeholder group for the Joint Council of Cosmetic

money, the decisions we make can always be for the

Practitioners (JCCP), working on who should do which

good of the industry.

aesthetic treatments. I want to try to get better

“It’s been an honour to be asked to be a part of

regulations around human trafficking so I attend regular

movements that are making a real change; and for me,

meetings in Glasgow with the Scottish Government to

this girl from Glasgow, being able to stand up and have

put Babtac behind that. I attend board meetings and

my say in the middle of the House of Commons is

run the management team too, so there’s lots going on.”

awe-inspiring. Being a beauty therapist can take you

3. Be prepared for a challenge

anywhere. But don’t chair an association unless you’re passionate about the industry because it’s a stressful job

“There is a lot we can do to try to make things better but

with long hours but, for me, it’s the most rewarding job

there is a lot we can’t control and that can be frustrating.

in the world.” PB

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