AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS
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March 2019 | professionalbeauty.co.uk
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NEW TO THE GAME HOW TO RUN A SALON OR SPA WHEN YOU’RE NOT FROM A BEAUTY BACKGROUND
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One passionate company, three exceptional brands ADVANCED NUTRITION PROGRAMME™ ENVIRON® JANE IREDALE
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Make the difference to your Spa with exclusive Caudalie facial and body treatments. Contact us on +44 207 498 8944 or email spapartner@caudalie.com Twitter @CaudalieUK
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Mar
9
Contents
Contents Regulars 15 News Aesthetic treatments regulation debate reaches Parliament; Sorbet shuts UK salons, blaming “inferior” beauty training
Dorothy Perkins
31 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 35 Out & about Behind the scenes at the biggest beauty and spa parties
49 Ward’s world Hellen Ward on why you should embrace your business mistakes on the journey to success 53 Ask the experts How to refurbish your salon on a budget, the benefits of entering industry competitions and tips for maximising retail 65 Talking to…Sue Goddard Center Parcs’ group leisure manager on opening the company’s first site outside the UK and expanding its wellness reach 127 Nail bites First look at Bio Sculpture’s “nail health” range; inside celeb manicurist Roxanne Campbell’s nail studio 131 Staff strategy Everything you need to know about the legalities of reclaiming training costs 133 Treatment news An anti-ageing hand treatment, manual lifting facial and targeted eye device take centre stage
CND for Manish Arora
41 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses
Features
On the cover
98 Bold moves The make-up, hair and nail trends Sally Salon Services predicts are going to be big this year
72 New to the game Three owners reveal how they launched successful salons, having come into the industry with no beauty experience, and how the lessons they learned from other sectors gave them an edge
102 Greener pastures A new spa in Horsham is making waves because of its green credentials 107 Winds of change IIAA founder David Alpert on why the beauty industry needs to become more sustainable 113 Making the grade Who is responsible for the drop in students coming into the industry?
139 New products Mii extends its highlighter range and 3D-lipo launches a body-contouring machine
121 Four ways you’re losing money The common mistakes spas make and how you can fix them
152 Career Path Helen Hill reveals how to make it as head therapist at a leading spa
123 When clients turn bad How to handle aggressive behaviour from customers and dealing with fraudulent claims
82 The bright side Why neon brights, pretty corals, barely-there nudes and ice cream-inspired pastels are taking the nail world by storm this spring/summer, and the pro collections that can help you create the looks in salon 116 Spas get spiritual Why spiritual healing therapies are back in the mainstream and how you can add them on to your spa or salon treatment menu in a way that is authentic Cover: Accessorize
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Welcome to our rebrand issue. You’ll have noticed a new logo on the cover, and if you’re picking this up at the show, you’ll see new branding across our entire portfolio. These changes are intended to reflect our expanding remit in this growing industry. Find out how on page 17. The changing role of the therapist in our diverse industry is also in the spotlight again this month, with the news that one salon professional has helped saved the lives of four clients so far, following her training to spot signs of skin cancer. Meanwhile, the debate about how far therapists should venture into the world of aesthetics has reached Parliament, indicating that we could be one step closer to regulation in that sector of the market. Find out more about both stories on page 15. While the industry continues to develop at quite a pace, some trends are of course cyclical, a prime example being the renaissance of spiritual therapies in mainstream salons and spas. Where a few years ago, clients were turning their backs on relaxing rituals in favour of express, results-driven treatments, the continuing wellness trend is driving new consumers to seek out holistic therapies such as crystal healing or reiki. Check out our feature on page 116 to find out why. This month, we’re also welcoming newcomers to this growing market. Our feature on page 72 explores what it takes to make it as a salon owner entering the industry from a non-beauty background, and indeed what outsiders can bring to the role, with a fresh outlook and skills. Whatever your specialism, there’s plenty of content to keep you engaged in this, our biggest issue of the year.
CND for Mary Katrantzou
Editor’s Comment
10
Editor @Pro_Beauty01
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Mii_LLI_Trade Advert_Repro.indd 1
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FROM THE SEA TO THE SKIN
(re)connect WITH A FRENCH BEAUTY HOUSE PHYTOMER is the story of 3 generations born in the Brittany region of France and driven by a dream: to transform the sea into skin care. Our family-run company remains profoundly attached to its region and its incredible marine biodiversity, using natural, organic, wild and sustainably-grown marine ingredients. In its own laboratory, PHYTOMER discovers and cultivates the purest and most powerful natural ingredients turning them into safe and highperforming products, that revitalize the skin and deliver natural beauty.
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(re)join THE BEST PROFESSIONALS At PHYTOMER, we build and strengthen a one-on-one relationship based on trust, and understanding to help you grow your business, train your staff, develop and enhance your space and make the most of our longstanding brand reputation. On-site or online training sessions will quickly turn you into experts. You can shine in the treatment room and deliver impactful advice to your clients. More than 10,000 spas and hundreds of 5-star hotels have already chosen PHYTOMER. Just like them, choose a strong and reliable partnership, underpinned by products and treatments of exceptional quality.
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(re)design A VIBRANT SPA MENU PHYTOMER works hand-in-hand with the spa team to build an appealing menu tailored to match your concept, motivate your teams and delight your clientele.
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With PHYTOMER, provide energy to your business. CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION OR A DEMONSTRATION TO DISCOVER JUST HOW ENJOYABLE, REWARDING AND PROFITABLE A RELATIONSHIP WITH PHYTOMER CAN BE: CALL 01892 750850, EMAIL SALES-PHYTOMER@AUSTRALIANBODYCARE.CO.UK, OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE WWW.PHYTOMER.CO.UK *Clinical results on 22 women after 4 P5 CONTOURING treatments in a beauty salon and the application of the P5 lotion at home twice per day, over 2 weeks.
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BEAUTIFUL SKIN IS HEALTHY SKIN Our I SPA Treatments rejuvenate and revitalise for your best skin ever.
INTERESTED IN BECOMING AN IMAGE SKINCARE STOCKIST? CALL US TO RECEIVE YOUR WELCOME GIFT AND QUOTE PRO1 0345 504 0461 | info_uk@imageskincare.com | www.imageskincare.co.uk |
15 News
News Aesthetic treatments regulation debate reaches Parliament The Government has admitted shortcomings in non-surgical cosmetic treatment regulation reform post-Keogh review. In a parliamentary debate held on February 12 in Westminster Hall, Jackie Doyle-Price, parliamentary under-secretary of state for mental health and suicide prevention, admitted that the Government had “some way to go” to making sure that all those administering non-surgical treatments such as injectables are performing treatments to high standards. In January, Prime Minister Theresa May addressed regulation issues during Prime Minister’s Questions. Questioned by Alberto Costa, Conservative MP for South Leicestershire, on the topic, May replied: “We recognise that this growth in non-surgical treatments does increase the need for consumer protection. We are currently working with stakeholders to strengthen the
regulation and we are committed to increasing the safety of these procedures in a number of ways.” Her comments were echoed during the February debate, when Doyle-Price added: “In wishing to regulate this sector we do not want to undermine its dynamism and competitiveness. What we really need to do is make sure that consumers are properly educated so that they can make informed choices about where they seek treatments.” While she didn’t respond directly to Costa’s call for “the Government to at least consider setting out a cohesive and comprehensive plan to properly regulate the non-surgical cosmetic industry”, Doyle-Price did remind those in attendance of what has been done since 2013’s Keogh
review, including the training and qualification framework; and the formation of the Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP): “We need to work closely with the JCCP so we can develop hallmarks for people to look for so they can be sure they’re obtaining a treatment from a regulated practitioner,” she said. Doyle-Price also reiterated that as of May 2020, all dermal fillers will be regulated as medical devices under the Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency. However, this doesn’t mean that the products will be prescription-only.
Beauty therapist saves four clients’ lives after spotting cancerous moles
Beauty therapist Erika Hodgkiss is being hailed a hero after spotting cancerous moles on four of her clients. The owner of Erika’s Skin Clinic in Crockenhill, Kent, spotted the
dangerous moles on clients during beauty treatments and advised them to see their GPs. In all four cases, the client was diagnosed with a melanoma and had it surgically removed. Hodgkiss was able to spot the moles because of her training with Masced – a skin cancer programme developed by charity Skcin for beauty therapists to learn “skin surveillance” techniques that could help them work out when they may need to advise clients to seek medical attention.
“I can’t believe how many people I’ve seen with something unusual on their skin in just a few months. Most of the time they are aware it is there but say, ‘Oh that’s nothing, it’s just a mole’,” Hodgkiss told The Daily Mail. “I tell them I’ve been on the Skcin course and encourage them to get anything suspicious checked by a doctor. Luckily the women who were diagnosed with melanoma have come out the other side, but it’s scary to think it would have spread if I hadn’t spotted it.” professionalbeauty.co.uk
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EXPERT DERMOCOSMETICS A NEW LEVEL OF TREATMENTS FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
Our brand new active dermocosmetics range is the latest innovation from our exclusive laboratories. We continuously invest in research and development so that our partners can provide the most effective treatments on the market.
Find out how we can help transform your business: 0845 600 0203 / www.gdcspa.co.uk
Double Page Ad B-Calm Jan 2019 2.indd 3
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Professional Beauty rebranded under Professional Beauty Group Professional Beauty has had a rebrand. You’ll have noticed the new logo on the front of this issue, and if you’re picking this up at the London show or awards, you’ll see new branding across our entire group. This refreshed look is designed to bring our expanding portfolio in line as part of the newly created Professional Beauty Group, which is now the umbrella company for Professional Beauty and its sister brands Aesthetic Medicine, World Spa & Wellness,
Hairdressers Journal (HJ) and Salon International. This new approach was introduced to more clearly define what the company does, via the events and content that span the breadth of the diverse beauty, spa, aesthetics and hairdressing industry. These new logos will be used in these defined and complementary colours across all Professional Beauty Group events and communications moving forward.
New eco-friendly method for developing nail acrylics discovered
An energy-efficient process for creating acrylics has been developed, and could have significant implications for the environmental footprint of the nail industry. Researchers from the University of Connecticut developed a process that reduces the release of toxic byproducts such as carbon dioxide, ethylene and hydrogen cyanide. Acrylic compounds are traditionally
made from a chemical reaction that creates a translucent liquid, which dries as a durable coating. This process requires temperatures of up to 232ºC and causes the release of harmful byproducts into the atmosphere. However, the new eco-friendly process uses a porous catalyst made from manganese and oxygen in combination with mild temperatures, which can be modified, to avoid producing unwanted toxic chemicals. “The manganese atoms in the material can trade their electrons with nearby oxygens, making it easier for the right chemical reaction to take place,” the team’s report said.
inbrief // CACI’s celebrity fan base is on the rise, with Loose Women panellist Sherrie Hewson revealing the brand’s non-surgical microcurrent facial is the source of her youthful skin. Meanwhile, TV presenter Rochelle Humes said she is a fan of the Hydro Mask and reality stars Spencer and Vogue Matthews are addicted to the Ultimate Facial.
News
17
// PB Award-winning salon owner Stefania Rossi visited Barking and Dagenham College to help students identify the skills and qualities needed to become successful beauty therapists. Her lessons covered the importance of communication and organisational skills. // TOWIE star Chloe Sims has closed her Essex beauty salon after it failed to make a profit over its five years of trading, amassing £127,000 in debt. In a comment posted on her Instagram, Sims thanked clients for the “incredible journey” and put the closure down to other commitments. // EF Medispa has become an exclusive stockist of Endo-Test – a hormonebalancing serum by AQ Skin Solutions. The topical solution combats low levels of testosterone, restores hormonal balance and increases energy. // First Glance Beauty and Hair Studio in Tavistock, Plymouth, is offering all women who go for their smear test a free bikini wax. The awareness-raising initiative came after newspaper Plymouth Live reported that screening rates in the area had dropped to their lowest level in six years.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
015-022 PBMAR19 News.indd 17
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We’ve simplified the science and demystified the hype to provide you with ingredients of exceptional quality so our research backed, ethically sourced beauty supplements perform at the very core of your clients’ skin.
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THE POWER OF
25 years of empowering Skincare Professionals to deliver the very best results for their clients.
To become a stockist call us on 020 8450 2020 or email info@iiaa.eu and quote 25ANNIVERSARYPB to find out more
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News
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inbrief
Beauty therapists could be recognised by JCCP with new pathway
// Lash Perfect Lash Lift training took place at the VLCC academy in Mumbai, India, giving delegates the chance to learn the techniques behind the natural lash enhancement treatment. VLCC Academies have added Lash Perfect Classic, Russian and Express courses, to its curriculum. // BC Softwear has pledged to remove poly bags from all towels, slippers and flip flops, which will save 50,000 tonnes of plastic in 2019. Slippers will be shipped in a paper wrap and from April a cotton tie will replace the plastic bag on flip flops. // Salon booking site Treatwell has partnered with financial technology company SumUp to help digitalise the payment process for all Treatwell Partners. SumUp provides technology to allow small businesses to receive payments securely. The idea is to bring the industry in line with the trend for a cashless society. // HD Brows has launched a new education package, making its signature training course more accessible and affordable to practitioners. There are three tiers – Bronze, Silver and Gold – and the higher the grade, the more treatment materials included. // Business secretary Greg Clark has announced that the Government will invest £70 million into cyber security and resilience. This means beauty businesses will benefit from less cyber-crime, in particular credit card fraud, phone call scams and phishing emails.
Independent, international certification body IQ Verify has launched a qualification that will allow beauty therapists to reach Level 7 in many aesthetic treatments, creating the first pathway of its kind that could be recognised by the Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP). The L4-7 Skin Rejuvenation Scheme allows therapists to progress from Level 4 to 7 in chemical peels, microneedling and mesotherapy. The framework is mapped against the current requirements of UKregulated qualifications as well as
to ISO17024:2012 – the international standard for the certification of persons. Training schools wishing to deliver the schemes require prior certification against a different standard, ISO17065:2012. The qualification will be recognised internationally and in the UK. In addition, candidates are required to recertificate at fixed periods to evidence their ongoing competency, something that is mandatory to the Cosmetic Practice Standards Authority’s (CPSA) ongoing requirements. The CPSA helped develop the JCCP’s code of practice, which recognises ISO:17024. Laurence Clarke, sector lead for health and social care and aesthetic medicine at IQ, told Professional Beauty that the JCCP was “certainly interested” in officially recognising the Skin Rejuvenation Scheme.
Aesthetic clinic chain Sk:n plots growth following sale to Tri Span
Aesthetic and dermatology skincare treatments chain Sk:n has been acquired by private equity company Tri Span. The company, which operates 51 clinics across the UK and offers a range of non-surgical and dermatological treatments, was acquired for an undisclosed sum from fellow private equity company Graphite Capital.
Sk:n said it plans to expand into more locations across the UK and further strengthen the brand. Chief executive Darren Grassby and chief financial officer Simon Hope remain in their positions on the senior management team. Grassby commented: “Sk:n is an ambitious brand with exciting plans to grow over the coming years and Tri Span’s strategic approach is a perfect fit for our business. “We’re very excited to take Sk:n to the next level and confident that the combination of our highly experienced team with Tri Span’s experience in rollouts, plus its network and its international exposure, will enable us to propel the business forward.”
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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News
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inbrief
Sorbet shuts London salons blaming UK’s “inferior” beauty therapist training // Cidesco has launched an Expert Guide to Becoming a Make-Up Artist, which includes advice from some of the industry’s most experienced MUAs, educators and examiners. It provides all the information that a new talent needs to get started in the industry. // Anti-ageing skincare brand Crystal Clear and Norvell’s VIP tanning squad have joined the Strictly Come Dancing team on its live tour. Visiting eight locations across the UK, the pro brands will keep judges, celebrities and their professional partners camera-ready. // Cynosure is launching a customer service initiative in association with its Aesthetic Exchange learning and development platform to celebrate its 20th UK anniversary. It will hold a series of specialised customer training and educational events. // The founders of National Massage Day and Pro-Touch Awareness month have launched an online survey to collate feedback and ideas for the next event in October 2019, from those that want to champion the power of touch in modern society. Complete the form at surveymonkey.co.uk/r/ IXSQ3VJ // On-demand beauty service Blow Ltd has announced a partnership with Decléor to launch an exclusive range of at-home treatments. Customers will be able to book four new facials, created to suit specific skin needs, as well as a full-body aromatherapy massage.
Sorbet has shut its London sites, blaming a tough trading environment and “different” working culture for the closure. The South African salon chain, which first opened in the UK in 2015, ceased trading from January 25, closing its sites in Crouch End, East Finchley, Muswell Hill, Mill Hill and Temple Fortune. In an interview on South African radio station 702’s The Money Show, Sorbet founder Ian Fuhr said he was pulling the plug because of the “very, very difficult” trading environment as well as the work ethic, stating it “is a little different to ours. We struggled with the culture.” Fuhr also blamed training standards
for the flop, adding: “The education of beauty therapists [in the UK] is also inferior to that in South Africa, which is quite interesting.” He admitted he could have been more proactive in addressing the issues but said that, in the end, the monthly cost of funding the business in pounds became prohibitive. Commenting on the story, Clare Rogers, owner of The Treatment Rooms in Brighton, agreed with Fuhr: “Colleges take note. You’re failing the students as they leave college with distinction grades but still need to be completely retrained,” she said. Following the closures, Fuhr has resigned from Sorbet/Long4Life, the venture that owned the UK salons but is independent from Long4Life, which acquired the Sorbet South Africa Group in 2017. The UK closures won’t affect the business’s 207 salons in South Africa.
Beautiful Minds joins industry together to support mental health A new initiative is bringing the beauty industry together to help raise money for mental health charity Mind. The Beautiful Minds 2019 event, which is taking place from September 1–15, will see nail techs and therapists from across the country host fundraising activities to raise money for the charity. Beautiful Minds was founded by Chris Kitchen, marketing expert at hair and beauty booking system software company Book In Beautiful. The two-week fundraising event is being supported by Nail Harmony director Georgie Smedley and her team, who
distribute Gelish and manufacture All That Jazz, as well as by session nail tech Kirsty Meakin. A charity auction will take place at The Royal Hotel in Clacton on September 15. More than 40 beauty therapists signed up within the first 72 hours of Beautiful Minds 2019 being announced.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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REVEAL
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FIND OUT WHAT A CACI SYSTEM CAN DO FOR YOUR BUSINESS
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Promotional Feature
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Feed your clients’ skin
Elemis’s superfood squad just got tastier, with four new additions to the vitamin -packed prebiotic Superfood range perfect for dry, dull winter complexions
E
lemis is launching four brand new Superfood products to boost clients’ skin with healthy goodness. Formulated to complement the original line-up of skin essentials, these nutrientdense treats are perfect for revitalising dehydrated, dull winter skin. Combining the pure power of concentrated superfoods with the science and expertise behind every Elemis formula, the Superfood skincare range packs a powerful punch. Taking inspiration from the best that nature has to offer, nutrient-dense supergrains, superfruits and supergreens are cleverly combined with an active prebiotic to protect and maintain the skin’s delicate microbiome. Elemis’s Superfood range delivers a finely balanced skincare plan to awaken a healthy, vibrant and outdoor-fresh look for your clients. “When life’s moving at a crazy pace, it’s hard to keep up with the healthy diet our skin needs,” says Noella Gabriel, Elemis president and co-founder. “The Superfood range delivers an easilyabsorbed boost directly to your skin for natural Noella Gabriel radiance and luminosity.” Ready to target the sluggish look of dull, stressed-out skin? Discover four new steps for a healthy, outdoor-fresh glow for your clients.
NEW
Superfood Blackcurrant Jelly Exfoliator 50ml Packed with antioxidant-rich fruit extracts, black tea extract and glycerin for a softer, smoother, complexion, apply this facial scrub to cleansed, damp skin and massage in gentle circular motions before rinsing. Sustainably sourced blackcurrant fruit pulp help remove dead skin cells, while bilberry extract, naturally high in vitamins and minerals, locks in moisture and rehydrates.
NEW
Superfood Vital Veggie Mask 75ml Get a shot of green goodness for the dry, dull areas of your skin. Rich in avocado and chia seed oils to lock in hydration, plus passionfruit acids, naturally rich in vitamin C to brighten and exfoliate. Apply the mask generously to the cheeks and neck, tell your client to relax for 10 minutes and remove with a damp, dark cloth.
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NEW
Superfood Berry Boost Mask 75ml Got a client with oily skin? Apply this naturally purple, mattifying mask to their T-zone. Brazilian clay helps absorb excess oil while sustainably-sourced blackcurrant seed oil and nordic bilberry extract balance and hydrate skin. Tell your client to lay back and enjoy while the mask gets to work, then remove with a damp, dark cloth.
NEW
Superfood Kefir-Tea Mist 100ml This four-in-one treatment facial mist is formulated with coconut water and aloe vera to soothe and hydrate in an instant. Simply spritz over the face and neck to delicately tone clients’ skin with organic rooibos tea extract, soy-derived kefir ferment and a natural prebiotic — all perfect for balancing and promoting skin health. Finish with a Superfood Facial Oil and day or night cream for that vibrant, fresh look.
These four new products join the original Superfood line-up: Superfood Facial Wash, Facial Oil, Day Cream and Night Cream
Prebiotic formulas P rebiotics are the fuel that feed the skin’s microbiome, allowing skin-friendly bacteria to flourish. The skin’s barrier function depends on a delicate balance of “good” and “bad” bacteria. Good bacteria keep the skin looking healthy and fresh.
Nutritionally charged vegan-friendly actives N utrient-dense supergreen, supergrain and superfruit complexes give skin the daily dose of essential vitamins and minerals that it craves.
For more information contact Elemis +44 (0) 207 907 2724 newbusiness@elemis.com elemis.com
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Phorest Salon Owners’ Summit welcomes more than 500 delegates “Power up” was the theme of Phorest’s Salon Owners’ Summmit this year, with speakers sharing inspiration to help delegates become more profitable in their beauty businesses. The salon software brand held its annual event at Dublin’s Convention Centre in January, welcoming more than 500 delegates. Speakers included hair salon owner Christina Kreitel, who has a successful Instagram presence and shared advice on how to use the social media platform to attract new clients, as well as salon coach David Barnett, who talked about how he built a culture within his business that staff wanted to be a part of. There were
also business workshops covering leadership and teambuilding. Salon owners and managers made up the majority of attendees, visiting Dublin from the UK, Ireland, US, Canada, Australia, Germany and Finland.
Sweet Squared takes on Light Elegance Sweet Squared, which distributes CND, Lecenté, Moroccan Tan and Nimue in addition to own brands Wax: One and Lashus, has announced a partnership with US gel brand Light Elegance, which will see Sweet Squared become sole UK distributor for the brand. Light Elegance manufactures a wide range of UV/LED coloured gels as well as acrylic products and manicure tools and accessories. Sweet Squared officially introduced the brand at Professional Beauty London, with more information on the range and upcoming education courses to follow.
Michelle Keegan named Nouveau Lashes ambassador Featureflash Photo Agency
Professional brand Nouveau Lashes has announced actor Michelle Keegan as its UK brand ambassador. Keegan will help the brand raise awareness of its range of treatments and lash-care products among consumers, including the LVL lash lift, of which she is a regular client. “LVL has been a must-have part of my regime for years. I love how it makes my natural lashes look longer
and really voluminous, meaning whether on set or even on make-up-free days off, my natural lashes are looking at their absolute best,” commented Keegan. Nouveau Lashes cofounder Bridgette Softley said: “Michelle is such a natural choice for us. She’s a longterm advocate of our LVL treatment and we know that with Michelle we have a credible, authentic ambassador that our customers connect with.”
diarydates // March 3–5 INNOCOS Fairmont Mission Inn & Spa, California, USA A conference on beauty trends covering marketing, distribution and retail, plus awards. +32 1527 0962 innocossummit.com
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// March 10–11 Irish Beauty Show RDS, Dublin A show with products aimed at beauty and nail professionals, demos and stages. 01789 773434 irishbeauty.ie // March 15–18 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Fairground District, Bologna, Italy Exhibition with sections for packaging and perfumery. +39 02 796 420 cosmoprof.com // March 18 Professional Beauty Cape Town The River Club Golf & Conference Centre, Cape Town, South Africa One of the three South African PB exhibitions, with a conference programme. +27 (0)11 781 5970 probeauty.co.za
// March 23-24 Aesthetic Medicine Live Olympia London Top-level conference and exhibition aimed at clinic owners and teams. 020 7351 0536 aestheticmed.co.uk // April 3 UK Spa Association Spring Networking Event Rudding Park, Harrogate An event for members and non-members of the association to meet and network. spa-uk.org
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Ideal to treat: Skin tags, pigmentation, warts, age spots, sun spots, liver spots and verrucas Age spot treatment
Want to learn more? Come join us at our free demonstration sessions at our new Academy in Elstree, North London. Get the opportunity to see the package, meet with our rep to hear all about how CryoPen® can improve your clinic & ask any questions you may have.
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Want to learn more? Come join us at our free demonstration sessions at our new Academy in Elstree, North London. Get the opportunity to see the package, meet with our rep to hear all about how Dermapen™ can improve your clinic & ask any questions you may have.
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Demonstration dates Monday 11th February Monday 18th March Monday 15th April Monday 20th May
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31 Digital
professional
beauty .co.uk
Della Batten (@deldewbeauty): A quick coffee and browse through @pro_beauty01 magazine before a day of nails, lashes and brows!
We take a look inside PB’s digital world
Hot topic Emma Delamere (@emmadelamerebrowsandco): When you come home to your @pro_beauty01 #bedtimereading
Is there a national shortage of good therapists? Former beauty therapist Rachel Money commented: “This is probably because everywhere wants Level 3 trained therapists with additional qualifications in specific treatments and products but only want to pay minimum wage. All the good ones open their own business or change career completely to make money.”
Hot topic
Schools preventing pupils from finding out about beauty qualifications THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you currently, or do you plan to, offer supplements at your spa or salon?
Kirstie Donnelly MBE, group managing director at City & Guilds, commented: “A real concern as I feel the Government should deliver the missed opportunity from that landmark 1944 Act and provide every teenager with a real choice of high-quality technical education that starts them on the career ladder.” Chris Taylor, director at Eve Taylor London, commented: “Unfortunately this has been happening for years – the schools are now trying to persuade students to stay for longer as it’s all about the funding and often lock colleges out of their options on purpose – even though it’s no longer allowed!”
24% YES
76% NO
Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley
@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK
@georgeseago @fivlemmiks
uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty
@katsjonouchi
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Digital
32
What’s on
hot
Your one-stop shop where all the latest news, features, products and expert opinions are brought together and streamed by sector-specific channels
PB ONLINE SKINCARE & SPA CHANNEL
Blog: 4 rules when updating your salon’s branding Revamping your salon’s image can be a tricky thing to get right. Kelly Hooper, director of The Barn in Somerset, gives four rules that you need to follow to make sure you deliver a successful rebranding, from the monetary investment a big refresh will need to the key elements that need to be covered.
BUSINESS & TRAINING CHANNEL
BUSINESS & TRAINING CHANNEL
Blog: How apprenticeships can help grow your salon business
Video: Expanding your single salon into a chain
Apprenticeships are common in the hair industry, but still not used frequently in beauty services. Liza Smith, owner of Bodylines in Kent, explains how she’s successfully grown her business by taking on apprentices.
Sara Shoemark, founder of multi-site salon group Glow, which has sites across Wrexham, Chester and Mold, shares her advice on five key points to know before making the leap to expand your salons in to a chain.
Watch our exclusive videos now: professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbtv
Whatever your speciality, stay in the know on the sector that matters to you with our six online channels, packed with curated content on need-to-know business skills and training advice. Skincare & Spa
Nails
Tanning & Waxing
Advanced Treatments
Business & Training
Lashes, Brows & Make-up
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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BUY IT OR RENT IT...
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Industry Events
&
Out About
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Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa
ELEMIS SUPERFOODS PARTY CAROUSEL, LONDON
PB editor Eve Oxberry and editorial assistant Lydia Mormen attended the Elemis press launch for the extension of its Superfoods range. There were mini facials at the new Insta-Beauty Bar concept, superfood snacks on a selection of healthy breads, and fun installations, such as a photo booth with fruits and vegetables modelled from balloons, as well as jelly-textured products showcased in jelly moulds. Guests left with the new additions to the range.
SHARED BEAUTY SECRETS 10TH BIRTHDAY PARTY CAFÉ DE PARIS, LONDON Shared Beauty Secrets marked 10 years of success with a party at Café de Paris in London, attended by PB’s managing director Mark Moloney, deputy editor Amanda Pauley and Lydia. The 300 guests were given a first look at new product launches, complimentary Lava Shells massages, and entertainment from impressionist Francine Lewis and singer Gemma Kalmakrian from ITV show The Voice UK. The event supported mental health charity Mind, raising a total of £2,120 from the sale of Fortune Cookies that offered the chance to win prizes donated from operators and suppliers. >
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Industry Events
36 OPI SS19 COLLECTION LAUNCH SAKE NO HANA, LONDON OPI launched its new-season Tokyo collection at Japanese restaurant Sake No Hana. The collection comprises 12 colours which were displayed on a rotating sushi carousel. Lydia and PB’s features editor Georgia Seago enjoyed Japanese-inspired cocktails and sushi as well as mini manicures using the new shades. Guests were also treated to a gift set from a bespoke vending machine.
ESSENTIAL BEAUTY SUPPLIES TRAINING ROOM LAUNCH SOMERSET, UK Outback Organics distributor Essential Beauty Supplies celebrated the opening of its new training facility and showroom in Wellington, Somerset, with an event featuring demos and mini treatments. Guests were greeted with prosecco and canapés before watching live waxing demos in the new treatment room, while manicures took place downstairs using Orly products. Guests were also gifted with goody bags.
PRIORI TTC LAUNCH SANDERSON, LONDON PB’s Georgia attended a breakfast for the launch of Priori’s latest skincare range Triple Tumeric Complex (TTC) at the Sanderson. Following a presentation on the science and formulas behind the range by Tracy Harriott, global director of education for Priori, and celebrity facialist Michaella Bolder, a breakfast of quails’ eggs on smashed avocado toast was served alongside turmeric smoothies.
AESTHETICS COLLECTIVE LAUNCH PARTY MARGARET DABBS GUILDFORD Guildford was the setting for the launch of Aesthetics Collective, a new independent business started by South Lodge Spa manager Sara Young, nurse prescriber Rebecca Mattison and medispa director Karen Thomas, which will deliver medical aesthetic services such as dermal fillers in spas. Guests, including industry names such as Spa Pulse founder Helena Field, Gaylia Kristensen distributor Lloyd Baker and PR specialist Juliet Wheater, were treated to cocktails, canapés and taster treatments. PB
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1 Fractional CO2 laser for vaginal tightening
ISO 13485
41 Business Trends
Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market
Insider
With a report by market analyst Mintel revealing that 33% of Brits now take a vitamin D supplement daily, the inside-out beauty trend is showing no signs of slowing down. Many of you already retail supplements to your clients as part of a 360-degree approach to wellness, with collagen and vitamins A, D and E being the most popular ones you sell. Meanwhile, with holistic therapies making their return to the mainstream – check out our feature on page 116 – nearly half of you (45%) are considering introducing reflexology to your menu, while 17% want to invest in acupuncture, 9% reiki and 8% crystal healing. Making sure your salon is welcoming to all is also high on your agenda, with nearly a third (31%) of you making adjustments to make your business dementia-friendly.
On the spot
Dorothy Perkins
beauty
January 2019 in numbers Which alternative/holistic therapy would you like to offer in your salon? 1. Reflexology 2. Acupuncture 3. Reiki 4. Crystal healing
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?
43% 40% 17% BETTER
31%
Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider
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WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
have a dementia-friendly salon Which type of supplement do you retail to clients the most? 1. Collagen 2. Vitamin A 3. Vitamin D 4. Vitamin E
SAME
52% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?
21% 53% 26% BETTER
WORSE
SAME
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Business Trends
42
Insider
spa
On the spot
Accessorize
With clients more educated on the benefits of holistic treatments for mind, body and soul, the demand for these services has never been greater. As a result, many of you are looking to introduce alternative treatments such as reiki, reflexology and energy therapy to get more customers through your doors. This kind of strategic thinking is what has boosted your appointments on last year’s figures and kept your room occupancy at a healthy 70%. Retailing supplements is also generating good business for you as clients are looking for innovative ways to boost their skin health from within – vitamin D is the most popular seller for 60% of you. Also, check out the latest hotel spa opening in Horsham that’s leading the way in delivering a first-class service with top eco credentials on page 102.
Which alternative/holistic therapy would you like to offer in your spa? 1. Reiki 2. Reflexology
January 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?
3. Energy therapy
60% 30% 20% BETTER
70
SAME
WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
%
have a dementia -friendly spa
70% Which type of supplement do you retail to clients the most? 1. Vitamin D 2. Vitamin C 3. Collagen
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?
67% BETTER
23%
10% WORSE
SAME
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Insider
nails
Making sure your techs’ skills are up to scratch is of the utmost importance, which is why more than a third of you (35%) perform in-house refresher courses annually. A key issue for your techs is making sure embellishments such as crystals and gems are placed securely, with many citing flexible gel as the best method (35%). Other rated techniques include using a strong top coat (28%) and powerful nail glue (27%). Nail art is still one of your most popular services, with 29% of salons and spas we questioned now offering 3D elements. With spring nearly upon us, get a first look at the hottest collections launching from the pro brands on page 82, and check out what Sally Salon Services is predicting will be the season’s key looks on page 98, from colour block art to pretty nudes.
On the spot How often do your nail techs undergo refresher training in-house?
Orly for Sadie Williams SS19
Business Trends
44
1. Annually 2. Every 18 months
January 2019 in numbers
3. Every six months HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?
32% 47% 21%
29
%
BETTER
offer 3D nail art
SAME
WORSE
NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK Which method works best for applying nail embellishments?
26
1. Flexible gel 2. Top coat 3. Nail glue METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email from January 31 to February 8, regarding business for the month to January 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by spas and salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JANUARY 2019 COMPARE WITH JANUARY 2018?
15% 57% 28% BETTER
WORSE
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Ward’s World
49
Lessons
LEARNED
Any successful business owner will have made numerous mistakes on their journey. HELLEN WARD shares some of her own, and explains how you can learn from them
M
any of you might have picked this issue up at the Professional Beauty London show at ExCeL, but if you’re reading this afterwards and didn’t make the event, then I’m confident in saying you missed a treat. It’s always my must-attend event of the year. Networking, sourcing new products, seeing innovations, meeting people, checking out industry bodies, looking at brand developments, catching up with suppliers – all of these things are at your fingertips. I’ve long used our best and brightest industry trade show to find new equipment, follow up with potential partners, and, above all, to see what’s new – and all under one roof. The best part of the show for me is attending the Business Skills seminars. Not being a therapist myself (my team often attend the practical workshops), I love sharing ideas and find networking with other salon owners particularly inspiring. In fact, this year, I shared my own story in a workshop that had a rather tongue-incheek name, “25 years to Overnight Success”.
So, what did I share in my seminar as the key learnings we trod on our survival path? 1. To get strongly rooted oak trees, you have to start with acorns. Trying to uproot someone else and fit them into your team may be a fast track to turnover and work out OK, but if it doesn’t, it can poison a great team very quickly. The best, but slowest, approach is always to grow your own staff, to have five people who want to work with or for you rather than 20 who are indifferent. “Bad apple” culls can be scary, but immediately transformative. Sometimes, atmosphere has to trump turnover. 2. Be your truth. It’s tempting to get sidetracked by what other brands are doing and try to be something you’re not. But if you’re not living your truth you won’t be happy, and neither will your team – or your clients. Have the courage of your convictions and stay true to your brand. 3. Every disappointment leads you closer to success. But only if you listen, tweak and learn from the failure. 4. Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insanity. And as Einstein said this, it must be right. 5. Being happy is important – ever walked through your salon and felt uncomfortable? Stop and figure out who or what is making you feel like that and deal with it ASAP. We spend a third of our lives at work so it has to feel right. PB
Learning how to develop failings into successful outcomes is what sets leaders and pioneers apart
Bouncing back Listening to other entrepreneurs who are willing to share their failures is always inspiring – to hear that their journey to success, which from the outside looks seamless and hassle-free, is rarely that. In fact, the only thing that every successful business has in common is that the path is never straightforward; there are always countless twists and turns. Learning how to navigate those and develop failings into successful outcomes is what sets leaders and pioneers apart.
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for The National Beauty Federation (NBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Ask the Experts
53
ask
the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
One of my 2019 business goals is to maximise retail but it’s proving tricky. How can I boost sales? The key to successful retail can be broken down to this formula: staff plus site, plus stock, equals sales. Staff: Teamwork makes the dream work. The first objective is to determine what motivates your staff. Some are money-orientated, for others its time off in lieu, while some prefer product incentives. Asking key questions will help you decide what route to take. Set achievable unit targets or monetary goals and constantly remind your team to ensure that clients are continuing to use their customised beauty regime at home. There is no point a client having a monthly facial if they are going home and using face wipes. Work out how much extra money your staff could make if they sell product; once they realise the additional commission they could earn, it will help motivate them. Site: Retail is detail. Ensure that your merchandise is always in a prime position. Use the posters, images and shelf talkers that are supplied by most brands. Why have a painting of a tree on the wall when you could be promoting the latest product launch or new treatment? Eye level is buy level; products that are not selling well, or ones that you particularly want to promote, should be placed at eye level on the shelf. Products won’t sell if the customer cannot see them.
Stock: Do regular stock counts and know your stock. Here, the number three is the key. What I mean by this is display three of each product, if possible. Any less looks like the products have been sitting there for ages. Always have testers for clients to try before they make the commitment to purchase as it secures the sale. And finally, throw away the key.Visit any successful top department store and you will never see a locked retail unit.
Amanda Coveney has 30 years’ industry experience and is managing director of professional skincare distribution company Skinbrands.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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54 Ask the Experts
What are the benefits of entering my team into lash competitions? Entering your first lash competition can be very daunting if you have never done one before, but as a salon owner I actively encourage my therapists to enter competitions. There are different categories for all levels of experience, usually a beginner, a novice, and a professional or expert division, across multiple categories, so therapists can enter a division where their particular strengths lie. There is so much to gain at these competitions for both your therapists and your business. It’s a chance to showcase the skills you have built together. Not only does it reaffirm my belief in my team, I believe it can give the shyer therapists that confidence boost they need. Lash artists can gain so much confidence from the constructive criticism they get from industry-recognised judges, which can be taken back to their salon and applied on clients. Therapists may also develop a quicker technique through competing.
How do I know which salon software is right for my business?
Another benefit is that by seeing the latest styles or the hottest adhesive on the market that competitors are using, therapists can bring back the latest
The right salon software will simplify your life and make running your business
trends to your business. Finally, if your
a breeze. It should run on your computer, laptop, tablet, and smartphone,
therapists come back with a trophy
no matter where you are, and be easy for both staff and clients to use.
or certificate, it’s brilliant to showcase
Some salon software solutions only do simple scheduling, while others
across your social media platforms,
have tons of bells and whistles you probably won’t use (but will still pay for).
and to proudly display in your salon.
Most businesses need something in the middle that combines a flexible
Who wouldn’t want to have their lashes
calendar with simple, yet powerful business tools like visual reporting
done by an award-winning artist?
and marketing. Jot down a list of what you need your software to do, then compare it to what’s on offer. Not all software will run on all devices, so it’s important you take this into account when looking at your options. Key questions to consider include: will my existing equipment (computer, barcode scanner) work with the new software I choose? Is there an iPhone or Android app? Can we access the appointment calendar and other business information on our phones? Will it work with my other business software like Afterpay, Xero, or Mailchimp? Talk to others in the industry to get an idea of what’s already working for people and read reviews. Does the software provider release new features often? Is their customer support helpful and accessible? The best Ryan Baker is chief executive and co-founder of Timely Salon & Spa Software, which supplies business of all sizes with time-saving management tools.
way to see if a piece of software is right for your business though, is to just give it a go. If there’s a free trial available, test out the software and get your staff’s opinions too.
Sarah-Anne Barham is owner and UK director of SarahAnne’s Beauty Distribution/ NovaLash UK and a UK master trainer and brand ambassador for Novalash. She also owns salon Sarah-Anne’s Beauty in Felixstowe.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Ask the Experts
56
How often should I get my laser equipment serviced? Other than buying property, purchasing a laser system is often the single biggest business investment many of us will make, so longevity of your equipment is key – the better your system is maintained, the longer you can expect it to be making money for you. Regular servicing can pick up any issues that might be putting stress on delicate components, which means that they last longer, avoiding costly repairs later down the line. For example, it’s essential that optical
How can I offset the cost of refurbishing a new treatment room?
components are regularly checked because, over time, even tiny specks of dirt or debris can damage the coating on lenses and mirrors.
Treatment rooms have huge potential to generate revenue for salons, but
Regular servicing also ensures
can be costly to refurbish, especially without sufficient client bookings to
a constant and calibrated output,
offset the expense.
enabling you to deliver safe and
Generating client excitement and bookings can feel like a daunting task, but all salons and beauty therapists have plenty of free resources available to them to ensure their new room is a success. Develop a selection of packages for courses of treatments in the room.
effective treatments for your clients, and retain valid insurance cover. How often your system needs servicing will vary depending on
Packages can be tiered in terms of the number of treatments offered and the
the type of laser or light device.
money clients save. Introduce an element of exclusivity by giving your most
IPL systems, on the whole, have
loyal or highest spending customer base early-bird access to packages.
fewer delicate optical components
Treatment courses will help secure return custom further down the line;
and generally just require one service
they glean the best results, so you’ll have several clients happy to rebook
visit per year, but most laser systems
once they’ve seen their progress in your hands. Adding products into the
require two to three services.
packages will make them more appealing, and clients will feel they’re
Some very high precision lasers
receiving an extra perk. Do make sure the cost of products is included
such as those used for corrective
within package rates, so you don’t miss out as a salon.
eye surgery are serviced every two
Rowan Hall-Farrise is international head trainer and facialist at QMS Medicosmetics, the professional spa and salon skincare brand renowned for its professional collagen treatments.
Referral schemes do a lot of
months. Speak to your supplier who
the groundwork when it comes
will be able to advise you on what is
to getting the word out about
required for your particular system.
your new offering, so introduce either discounts or bonus services both to the person that’s making the referral, and to the client making a booking based
Dr Samantha Hills is clinical director at Lynton, the UK manufacturer of lasers and intense pulsed light systems.
on the recommendation.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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58 Ask the Experts
Which elements are crucial for a successful digital marketing strategy? The critical goal of any digital marketing strategy is to create meaningful engagement with your existing clientele, while attracting additional followers or potential customers. In this hyper-competitive industry, you can’t afford to fall behind with marketing, promotion and positioning – customers can be all too fickle if they don’t receive regular nurturing. To maximise valuable time, energy and money, your marketing activities must deliver against your broader business strategy and objectives. You should plan annually and review the results quarterly. When you get down to planning the monthly content, look across all your channels – events, website, social media, blogs and newsletters. While this can feel time-consuming, in the
How can I help clients protect their skin from the effects of regular swimming?
long run it will save so much work. A monthly digital marketing outreach should consist of at least one newsletter, keeping a consistent structure so it’s
According to the most recent Health and Wellbeing of Swimming report,
easier to plan content, and making sure
42% of the UK population goes swimming, with seven million people
to include website links; and three
swimming weekly.
blogs, but try to come up with titles
Most of us can relate to the tight feeling we experience on our skin after
and angles for these in advance to
being in the pool. Of course, the swimming pools in most spas are filled
avoid writer’s block. For optimum SEO,
with chemicals (mainly chlorine) to protect us from bacteria that can be
aim for 500 words minimum per blog.
found in the water. Chlorine strips natural oils and moisture from our skin, leaving it with that familiar tight and itchy characteristic. So how can we help clients to protect the skin after swimming? The first step
Lastly, you should also try to do at least one email or social media advertising campaign per month.
would be to remove any remaining chemicals in a warm shower using a mild body cleanser and an effective facial cleanser, containing ingredients such as glycerine which will help to hydrate the skin and prevent moisture loss. After cleansing, recommend that clients use a hydrating concentrate and treatment cream, focusing on re-establishing the skin’s moisture levels. It’s really important they don’t miss out any steps from their usual skincare routine. Products that contain ingredients that have a focus on stimulating hydration, and work to keep it locked in, will not only leave their skin feeling comfortable but also protected. Using a fragrance-free eye balm will stop any irritation and help to protect the delicate skin Kirsti Shuba has 30 years’ industry experience and is managing director at Fraser Muir and co-founder of British skincare brand Katherine Daniels.
around the eyes. Using a body moisturiser containing ingredients such as shea butter and brown seaweed osmolyte will leave the skin feeling
Anna Bjurstam is vice president of spa and wellness at international spa operations company Six Senses and has 25 years’ industry experience.
hydrated and nourished.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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59
Serious about
Promotional Feature
GET
safety
Health and safety should be a major focus for any salon. The National Beauty Federation’s Caroline Larissey outlines the measures you need to be taking
I
“
t’s crucial to make health and safety a priority in your beauty salon,” says NBF quality and standards director Caroline Larissey. “You’ll want to protect your clients and staff, stay within the law, and be confident your insurance will cover you if something does go wrong.”
Health and safety must-haves The law says you must display a health and safety poster, carry out a risk assessment, and provide health and safety training for all your staff. “As a minimum requirement, you’ll also need to have at least one appointed person to be in charge of first aid arrangements in your salon,” says Larissey. You must have a written health and safety policy if you have five or more employees. “However, even if you have fewer than five staff, it’s still good practice to have a written policy,” says Larissey. The NBF’s comprehensive health and safety kit for beauty salons includes a policy template as well as everything else you need to cover health and safety law in your beauty salon, including risk assessment templates, accident book, health and safety poster and guidelines. Find out more about the NBF’s health and safety kit, which is available to members at a discounted price of £80 (full price: £115) at nhf.info/beautyH&Skit
Essential insurance cover NBF members can get a 20% discount on salon insurance with the NBF’s preferred insurance provider, Coversure at nhf.info/beautyinsurance. Coversure offers a choice of five advanced beauty treatment packages to provide cover for up to three appropriately trained and qualified therapists employed by your salon. It can also help with cover for more than three therapists, self-employed therapists and advanced beauty treatments requiring Level 6 or 7 qualifications. Find out more at nhf.info/advanced-packages “Don’t forget – your insurance will not cover you if you don’t have the necessary qualifications to carry out treatments or if you don’t comply with age restrictions for
treatments,” says Larissey. NBF members and non-members can download a free fact sheet that provides in-depth guidance to qualifications and age restrictions relating to various beauty treatments at nhf.info/age&qualsfactsheet
Protecting your team Your staff may be at risk of cross-infection or dermatitis and should wear disposable non-latex powder-free nitrile or vinyl gloves for protection. The NHF/NBF industry statistics for 2018 revealed that beauty therapists and hairdressers have some of the highest rates of work-related skin disease in the UK (see nhf.info/industrystats for more). “You should also minimise the risk of your staff developing musculoskeletal disorders caused by repetitive work that involves standing and bending,” says Larissey. “This might include height-adjustable treatment tables, ergonomic treatment chairs, and advice on the best positions to work in – for example, feet flat on the floor and positioned apart when standing, correct chair positions to ensure the back retains its natural ‘S’ curvature, and avoiding repeatedly stretching or twisting to reach things.”
The NBF For less than 75p a day, the National Beauty Federation (NBF) will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us. The NBF is the sister trade association of the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF). Find out more: nhf.info/nbf Join the NBF before the end of March 2019 and quote PBM25 to get £25 off your membership fee.
Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965
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Ask the Experts
60
What are the main differences between treating men and women’s feet? Put yourself in a man’s shoes. For many, the stigma remains that pedicures are something only women do. However, there are very few gender-specific elements to the treatment itself – aside from the fact that most men wouldn’t opt for the finer finishes as a women would. The key to treating men’s feet is to think beyond file and clippers. It is about the experience, broken down into three parts: comfort, trust
How can I plan a successful pre-opening campaign for my spa?
and education. Firstly, men must feel comfortable in the treatment environment. Next comes trust. It is imperative that the client feels their
In my experience, pre-openings have been primarily dedicated to the
feet are in safe hands, without fear of
operating processes and training principles for a brand. However, with
judgement for any mistakes they may
the market changing and becoming more competitive, it is equally
have made through DIY nail care at
important to drive a fully fledged pre-sale activity programme, similar
home. Likewise, an appreciation that
to those used in the health club industry.
men are stepping out of their comfort
Providing online accessibility and convenience is critical. Mobile-first
zone to seek your help goes a long way.
development and a smooth transaction process must be attained at the
Finally, knowledge is power.
beginning. It will take about three months before any online ranking will
Educating your clients will allow
be naturally or organically optimised.
them to maintain good, lifelong
Face it, you will be buying your early customers, so prepare a strong
foot health. Sharing your expertise
marketing budget and go for it. Balancing the three elements of local
and advice with the client will not
activity, digital marketing and third-party support is going to be critical
only help to build trust, but also
in the early months.
make your job easier in the long
It’s important to blend them carefully, starting with digital, moving to your
run. After a number of treatments,
own activity locally and then increasing support from third-party providers
men’s feet can become as easy, or
as you move into month three and beyond. Our industry is well served by
even easier, to maintain as women’s.
booking experts so you will get great information from them to choose from. You should expect to open with three weeks worth of business on your books. There is a utilisation percentage that must be Charlie Thompson is chair of the UK Spa Association and co-founder of membership salon model The Massage Company.
achieved in the early months to keep your team eager and you need to explain to them that it will be hard work from the start,
Aldwyn Boscawen is the founder of male footcare establishment Aldwyn & Sons, which was set up in London in 2017 with a goal of changing men’s attitudes to pedicures.
so get your working culture right.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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65 Interview
Talking to...
Sue Goddard Center Parcs’ group leisure manager tells Georgia Seago how the evolution of Aqua Sana is a key driver for the company’s first site outside of the UK
S
ue Goddard is gearing up for the opening
is pulling out all the stops and building the biggest
of Center Parcs’ sixth property in the summer
standalone spa in Ireland, at nearly 27,000sq ft
of this year. Arguably the holiday company’s
and costing €10 million (approx £8.8m).
biggest opening to date, Longford Forest will be its first outside of the UK, marking its most
Overseas adventure
significant move in its 30 years of business. As
“Our thermal suite in particular is a different
group leisure manager, Goddard has played a
proposition to what you normally find in Ireland.
leading role in the development of the new site. “We’ve
There are some fantastic spas there but they’re
been developing the site at Longford for a number of
mostly based in hotels,” says Goddard. Final details
years and we’re really excited as it’s going to be quite
of the newest Aqua Sana spa (Center Parcs’ spa
a unique offering in the Irish market,” she says.
brand) were still under wraps as PB went to print,
Located in County Longford, around an hour and
but it is to include many of the popular elements
a half’s drive from Dublin, the new holiday village is
from the other spas. 14 treatment rooms will
aimed at the domestic short break market, which
accompany an extensive thermal suite and
Goddard says isn’t as mature as it is in the UK. So,
treatments from skincare brands Voya and Elemis.
to give itself the best possible chance of replicating its UK successes on the emerald isle, the company
“The village is in the middle of a very beautiful, dense forest. We’ve got a big lake and a lovely >
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66
man-made beach area filled naturally with rainwater, which again is very different for the Irish market, having a beach in the middle of a landlocked county,” says Goddard. “The zip line will whizz over the lake, and we’ll have all our other trademark high-adrenaline outdoor activities and the more traditional indoor options too.” Longford isn’t the only the project that has been demanding
spa was the result of that and it really been the
Goddard’s attention of late. Center Parcs’ Longleat Forest,
key driver in the evolution of the brand. Our
Wiltshire location began extensive refurbishment works
unique proposition is our forest locations and
in December of last year, in order to bring the proposition
how we can bring the outside in, letting guests
in line with Aqua Sana’s forest spa
feel the forest wherever
concept, which was launched at
they are in the spa journey.”
Sherwood Forest two years ago and will also be replicated in Ireland. “We’re transforming the spa with many of the key elements from Sherwood as well as some new, including two unique thermal experiences that won’t be anywhere else,” says Goddard. “As we move the concept through the estate
In the 30 years that Center
Aqua Sana was born of a notion that spa should be for everybody, no matter your experience or lifestyle
over the next few years, we’ll have that forest spa footprint throughout but there
Parcs has had a presence in the UK, it has become synonymous with short breaks for families and groups who want the freedom of planning their own itinerary with multiple options. While spa was always part of this, the five Aqua Sana spas now see
will be something unique at each site too.” With
more than 355,000 guests collectively each year.
facilities inspired by the seasons and designed
Goddard puts this down in part to Center Parcs’
to stimulate guests’ senses, the spa will feature
inclusivity amid a sometimes-elite spa industry: >
frost, rainforest and hot springs experiences.
Natural evolution This refined version of the Aqua Sana brand and forest spa concept is the result of years of assessment behind the scenes at Center Parcs, with Goddard and her colleagues focusing much attention on thoughtful evolution. “When we opened Woburn Forest [in Bedford] in 2014 we assessed the business; looking at what was working, what wasn’t, and what we wanted to do next to evolve the brand,” she explains, “Forest
Clockwise from top: The Scandinavian Snug at Aqua Sana Sherwood Forest, Aqua Sana Longleat Forest, the Subtropical Swimming Paradise at Sherwood
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Interview
68
“Aqua Sana was born of notion that spa should be for everybody, no matter your experience or lifestyle. We started 30 years ago in Sherwood with four treatment rooms, a wet flotation area and a team of five running the spa, which was bolted onto the Subtropical Swimming Paradise. Now we have up to 26 different experiences within Aqua Sana, and each spa has around 100 people involved,” she says. The explosion of the wellness industry has undoubtedly impacted Aqua Sana, though Goddard says it has been just as important
Clockwise from top: A render of Aqua Sana Longford Forest, the Lava Volcano Sauna at Woburn Forest, a hot stone treatment, the Treetop Sauna at Sherwood, a men’s facial
to focus on what to ignore as which new
KEY DATES 1987 First Center Parcs village opens at Sherwood Forest, Nottingham 2006 Goddard joins Center Parcs as deputy general manager 2013 Becomes group leisure manager
ideas to incorporate into the spa offer.
growing population across all ages who
“It’s our responsibility to keep ourselves
are much more in tune with health and
educated with what’s going on in the sector
wellbeing. Baby boomers and Generation
and with the social contexts of trends,
X are realising the key to health is in their
attitudes and opinions, especially with
own hands; and then we’ve got millennials
wellness, because it isn’t just in the spa
wanting to offset the effects of overuse of
industry. But we need to keep a clear
technology… all this demand is there for
understanding of our brand vision and
leisure providers in a much greater sense
what our priorities are – ultimately whether
than ever before,” she says.
or not something fits with the demand of
With increased demand comes the
our guests,” she says. “At the same time
challenge of delivering, but Goddard is
though, it can be about educating guests
confident that Center Parcs’ reputation
with something new they’re not familiar
and skilled teams stands it in good stead
with but that we think might benefit them.”
for the future. “The audience has higher expectations now, especially with the
Future focus
growing conscience to consume ethically,
Goddard sees plentiful opportunities for
but if we listen and evolve with our current
Aqua Sana to continue its evolution, owing
and future guests we can stay ahead in
not just to wellness trends but also “the
the sector. It’s there for the taking.” PB
2017 Forest Spa concept debuts at Sherwood Forest December 2018 Refurbishment works begin at Longleat Forest 2019 Longford Forest, the group’s first property outside of the UK, is set to open summer 2019
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A path NEW
Three salon owners and managers tell GEORGIA SEAGO how their unconventional routes into the industry didn’t stop them from achieving success, and why coming from a non-therapist background can sometimes be an advantage
I
t’s generally assumed that most salons are owned or managed by former therapists who have years of industry experience under their belts. But there are those who enter the industry from different worlds entirely to open a beauty business without any prior experience, finding a unique set of challenges and opportunities. “I didn’t have a clue what I was doing; I had to learn fast or sink,” says Jemima Holly, owner and manager of Bombshells Beauty in Plymouth. Holly left her job as a carer for the elderly to open her salon opposite a naval base after her partner, who is in the Navy, commented on the lack of local hair and beauty facilities for people in the forces. “We
found a dilapidated building and thought it would make a great salon, but in the beginning I knew nothing; I had to learn what a therapist needed to do their job,” she says. Holly spent months researching everything she could think she’d need to know, booking into local salons for treatments and getting to know the types of clients who live in the area.
Lessons learned “I’m so glad I spent all that time doing market research and learning those things; the demographics and footfall in the area and working out what my overheads were going to be beforehand,” she says.
Despite being as well prepared as possible, Holly says she regrets her naivety in the beginning as a first -time business owner with no knowledge of what equipment or product lines she should invest in. “You get people trying to sell you everything and it can be quite tricky to navigate, especially when you might not yet know who your market is. I invested in a machine that ended up costing me money because I didn’t need it,” she says, adding: “I made mistakes and learned the hard way.” To avoid slip-ups where possible, Rebecca Dowdeswell, founder and owner of two Nkd Waxing salons in Nottingham and Leicester, made finding a salon manager with industry experience her first task upon
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embarking on her venture. "I knew I couldn’t have carried out a trade test myself when recruiting,” says Dowdeswell. “My manager had been in the industry for years, so I got her trained in intimate waxing, talked her through my vision and she helped me bring it to life.” Having been a journalist and held various roles in the automotive industry before deciding to open a specialist waxing salon, Dowdeswell knew she wouldn’t be the best person to manage the business, her only beauty experience coming from being
a client. “Because I don’t have a beauty background, I’ve never had an operational role in the salons. That’s not where my skills and expertise lie,” she says. “You have to surround yourself with experts. You don’t have that expertise yourself so you have to get people in that do".
Career change This is what Elizabeth Grieve did after deciding to swap her former career for beauty. Now manager of Charli and the Beauty Factory in Blackburn, Grieve first worked in the salon as a therapist but only
had six months’ experience before being promoted. “I worked in child protection for 15 years. I’d reached a management role and was on quite a decent wage, but I’d always been interested in beauty,” says Grieve. “While on maternity leave, I decided to train in nails and worked from home for a while.” When the time came to go back to work, Grieve began part time in the salon owned by her trainer – Nail Harmony master educator Charli Jepson. After quitting her other job she was managing the salon within six months. >
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Nkd Nottingham
“There were definitely times I thought I might have made the wrong decision, moving from being home-based to a salon,” she says. “I was so used to being in charge of myself and my work and suddenly I wasn’t, but I think that spurred me on to have ambitions of becoming manager quickly; I started doing things like stock orders pretty early on, I took on a massive amount for myself straight away.” It didn’t get easier when Grieve became manager of the salon, as she faced difficulties with team members who felt they’d been overlooked for the role because they’d been at the salon for longer and had more industry experience than her.
Uphill battle “There were challenges because I could see changes that needed to be made to make the running of the business smoother and some people aren’t the best with change, but that’s life. There were staff that had been in the industry longer than me, so it took some time for some of them to get used to me, and I tried to make the changes slowly so it wasn’t too invasive,” she says. “I learned that you have to have the confidence to raise and clear any issues with your staff.” Staff management and recruitment is an industry-wide problem, but for those with no experience of ever hiring or managing staff, it’s an even bigger challenge. While she didn’t experience any kind of resistance from staff owing to her lack of beauty training at the time, Holly admits she
lacked knowledge in terms of what to look for in potential therapists when she started Bombshells. “Interviewees would show me their certificates, tell me what they could do and say they had a big client base, but then they’d start and it would turn out they actually didn’t,” she says. Just over two years after opening the salon, Holly recently secured a second premises in a local gym, and says she felt far more confident in how to find staff: “I now know to get references, and check out their social pages to make sure they’ve got a following and a decent client base. I learned the hard way.” However, for Grieve, experience in recruiting gained from her previous management role was one of the things that stood her in good stead when she became manager at Charli and the Beauty Factory. “Coming from the sector I worked in – where I sat in on a lot of interview panels for Government positions – we had to do it properly, whereas in the beauty industry there’s no set structure for recruitment,” she says. The salon’s >
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Bombshells
recruitment process was one of the first things she changed. “I brought that structure with me, so when people sent a Facebook message or Instagram comment saying they wanted to apply for a job we were advertising, we asked for a CV and cover letter. We then held a full day of interviews and asked to see evidence of their work, plus a demonstration,” she says, adding: “I think some of the applicants were a bit shocked, but if they’re going to put themselves through that process then they definitely want the job.”
Adjustment period The somewhat relaxed attitude to applying for jobs in salons is something Dowdeswell was also shocked by when she first recruited for Nkd. She says: “One of the biggest challenges I faced in the early days was my professional expectations. Beauty has its own culture and it’s very different to how I’d worked in the past. I used to write off
90% of job applications because they weren’t professional enough. I’d get applications signed off with kisses, for example, but I’ve come to realise that that’s the norm, and just because someone does that they may still be a brilliant beauty therapist.” Dowdeswell says she had to adjust her expectations and standards slightly in accordance with differences in working culture, but that other key elements to running a successful business remain the same across industries. “When I was working for car companies, I was doing a lot of marketing and branding; that’s where I’ve chosen to spend my time in the business. The brand was a big thing when we set up Nkd; I wanted to create something that set the salon apart from >
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others and my background definitely came in handy. Being able to write good marketing material has really helped me grow the business over the years,” she says. Management experience, no matter the industry, provides many transferable skills that can prove invaluable in a new career. Grieve says her previous position taught her “people skills”, adding, “It equipped me to know how to manage staff and different situations that can arise. It’s definitely helped me manage clients too.” Despite entering the industry with little to no prior knowledge of how to thrive professionally in their new environments, both Grieve and Holly found that skills they already had proved useful on the salon floor.
Transferable skills “I didn’t really think it would come in handy, but my bedside manner learned from years of being a carer really does lend itself to the job,” says Holly. “I know how to speak to people and be caring, compassionate and considerate. I think that’s helped me a lot, especially now I do treatments myself.” One thing Holly feels may have hindered her when she opened up the business, however, is having no working knowledge of a salon reception – something she regrets not taking the opportunity to learn in the early days. “I’d recommend going to a salon and volunteering to be a receptionist for a few weeks so you can get a bit of knowledge under your belt; things like knowing how bookings work, shift rotations and the different terms of employment you might have to navigate,” she says.
Charli and The Beauty Factory
Entering the industry with ambitions to open a salon straight away is a daunting prospect, but one that can turn into a great success. Having launched a business with the subjectivity of someone on the outside and a clear vision of how to make her unique concept work, Dowdeswell’s Nkd Waxing has gone on to win multiple Professional Beauty Regional Awards and opened its second location in Leicester in 2017. Her key piece of advice for others embarking on opening a salon without a background in beauty is to "build a well-rounded salon team who between them have all the experience and knowledge that you don’t. Don’t be afraid of employing people with more expertise than you.” PB
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SS19 Nail Trends
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Bright SIDE THE
From nearly nudes to neon brights, be inspired by SS19 catwalk nails and pick up ideas to translate the looks using the latest professional polish collections
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Jessica for JJS Lee
THE NEW NEUTRAL
SS19 Nail Trends
Jessica for JJS Lee
Jessica for David Koma
Jessica for JJS Lee
83
Jessica for David Koma
featuring a round shape were ubiquitous at the SS19 fashion shows. Celebrity and session manicurist Marie-Louise Coster, who worked both the London and Paris shows, reveals: “There were a lot of clean, natural, well-manicured nails on show, especially for the likes of Hermès, Ralph & Russo and Jasper Conran, and also on a special Victoria Beckham trunk show I did.” When neutral nails did feature colour, muted, earthy tones were used, all with an on-trend matte finish. “Nudes, beiges and neutral colours are trending once again,” agrees Samantha Birkett-Leigh, CND education ambassador and session tech who worked on the nails for the Mary Katrantzou SS19 show. At the Eudon Choi show, nails were fashioned by Pebbles Aikens at The Wall Group using Jessica polishes in the tanned nude Natural Splendor, the olive Bobo Chic and in Simply Sexy, a cool nude crème. Elsewhere at David Koma, Cherrie Snow, head of nails for Jessica, along with the Jessica Hands on Team, used Custom Colour in Tease with a No Shine Matte Finish top coat. To complement Palmer Harding’s collection focused on lively, graphic structures, nail tech Sabrina Gayle also used a warm, nude shade, this time from Artistic Nail Design. She says: “We started by filing nails to a short and round shape and then applied Artistic Colour Revolution in Cafe Latte – it has this gorgeous, creamy coffee finish which looked super elegant and chic against the colours of the clothing. This shade is perfect for all skin tones too.”
Jessica for David Koma
Jessica for David Koma
Jessica for JJS Lee
On the catwalk: Well-groomed, barely-there nails
Jessica for David Koma
In the salon: Though it’s an easy trend to translate, to recreate this look, clients need healthy nails. “This pared-back look is often hard to achieve as there is no hiding anything,” says Coster. “The nail shape for the season is going to be rounded, and when opting for a natural shade, it is so important to ensure that the cuticles are well cared for, the nails are immaculately clean underneath the free edge, and that you choose a colour that works with the skin tone of the client.” This trend need not be boring, according to Julie-Anne Larivière, nail expert at Salon System. “A new kind of neutral will be very on-trend this season. Colours like pale peach, caramel and coffee will take the front row as opposed to the usual nude shades,” she comments.
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Orly
Jessica for Eudon Choi
Jessica for Temperley Photography: Jon Payne
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SHADES OF CORAL
Jessica for Temperley Photography: Jon Payne
Jessica for Temperley Photography: Jon Payne
life-affirming shade of orange, with golden undertones,” Living Coral is Pantone’s designated on-trend colour for 2019. This summery tone added splashes of colour to both clothing and accessories on the Temperley, Prabal Gurung and Gucci catwalks. Matching this sunny hue, pretty coral nails in various shades were evident throughout SS19 fashion weeks. Most noticeable at Temperley, mouth-watering talons were imagined by Cherrie Snow using Jessica polish in Juicy Melon. Celebrity nail artist Jenni Draper predicts that, for clients, “Corals will be the big colour player this season”. She adds, “Nail colours will be uplifting and empowering; reddish corals, sunny yellows and rich royal blues that provide confidence and spirit.”
Orly
On the catwalk: Lauded as “an animated,
In the salon: While the various corals seen in the professional SS19 launches will make clients’ nails a talking point when used alone, coral shades are also a great base for salon nail art, says Bio Sculpture’s expert Hayley Lomas. “Following on from the Pantone colour of the year, this summer’s nails will be all about bold, vibrant colours to give your manicure a playful expression. Whether your client is opting for a natural tone or a bold, vibrant colour, add nail art for a finishing touch that will brighten anyone’s day.”
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Orly for Julien Macdonald Orly for Julien MacDonald
Artistic for Fydor Golan
SS19 Nail Trends
Orly for Julien Macdonald
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Jessica for Eudon Choi
PRETTY PASTELS WITH A TWIST
Morgan Taylor for Alice Archer
sunshine were seen at Stella McCartney SS19, while frills, flounces, pastels, veils, rosettes and feathers graced the Marc Jacobs collection. Session and celebrity nail tech Lucy Tucker believes that a softer palette will be huge on nails this season: “I predict that we’re going to be using lots of pastel colours, especially those with a matte finish,” she says. However, she says these will be given a modern slant. “This pastel look could involve mixing up two colours on one nail,” says Tucker. “Coloured tips are making a comeback, a French with a twist.” Inspired by the ocean and its surrounding colours, the SS19 Fyodor Golan collection featured an aquatic theme with pearly sea-inspired textures. To balance this, Sabrina Gayle painted pastel, matte colours on models’ nails. “Fyodor’s ensembles were detailed with pearls, holographic discs and textures so we decided to keep the nail looking natural and organic. I used two shades to create the nail, Satin Frost, an iridescent lilac blue, and Love, a milky pink, by Artistic Nail Design. Even at the flamboyant Julien MacDonald show, Karen Louise, head nail technician for Orly, used a pastel pink on models’ toes and a metallic rose-gold polish on fingers.
Orly for Julien Macdonald
On the catwalk: Ice cream colours that evoke a promise of
In the salon: For a pastel take on the classic French mani, use varnishes in the same shade range with the lighter as the base and the deeper on the tips. “To recreate the look, you can use any pastel colours applied with a matte top coat, or buff the nail slightly on top once top coat has been applied,” suggests Tucker. “Instead of the client having her usual white French tip applied, she could try a pastel tip on every nail or just one signature nail.”
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CND for Mary Katrantzou
CND for Manish Arora CND for Mary Katrantzou
Marie Louise Coster for Yuhan Wang
SS19 Nail Trends
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Orly for Sadie Williams SS19
BRIGHT AND BOLD
Morgan Taylor for Katie Ann McGuigan
pastels and neutrals, neon colours and outlandish nail art made a splash at several shows. Representing Salon System, Karen Louise says: “2019 will see the comeback of bold and creative nail art. Think strong designs with colours that will really pop against each other and a high shine.” One standout look was the two-tone nails with a nude base and an oversized red dot at the tip created by Marie Louise Coster for Yuhan Wang. The CND Design Lab used just under four litres of CND Brisa Clear Gel to make the nails for Mary Katrantzou’s show with BirkettLeigh creating a “blown glass nail” with a delicate silver tape that floated to the tip. Meanwhile, to match Manish Arora’s SS19 collection of clothes in bright, bold hues, more than 20 bright shades from the CND Vinylux collection were painted onto nails. Similarly, the geometric prints, blazers, frilled dresses and poodle skirts in shades of blue, navy, white and deep red in Katie Ann McGuigan’s SS19 collection inspired Pebbles Aikens to choose various vibrant polishes from Morgan Taylor in shades of blue, pink and green for models’ nails.
Orly for Sadie W illiams SS19
On the catwalk: Amid the abundant corals,
In the salon: “I think the two-tone
s Orly for Sadie William
SS19
nail look will be the easiest catwalk trend of the season to adapt to the high street and salon market,” says Costa. “For Yuhan Wang, the dot could easily have been at the base, it could have been a continuing stripe around the complete edge and sides of the nail. So, go for any design you like that involves two colours. Ensure you have good-quality brushes and dotting tools to give a first-class finish.”
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SS19 Nail Trends
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Jessica Jessica has released two collections for the season. Blushing Beauty aims to give nails a “feel-good” glow with the season’s softest shades in Sweet Kiss, a dusky pink crème; You Make Me Blush, peachy nude; and Chocolate Bronze, pinky brown. The brand also celebrates the ritual of tea drinking with Tea Party, a collection of six pretty pastels. Blueberry Cream is a pastel grey-blue; while Pumpkin Spice is a coral pastel crème; Yellow Meringue a lemon yellow; Earl Grey a grey pastel; Love You Very Matcha a cool green; and Lavender Love a lilac pastel. Trade: £5.50 per polish, £17.75 per Geleration (Tea Party); £6.75 per Phenom (Blushing Beauty) 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com
Colour
The latest launches provide all the tools you need to create on-point nails this season
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Mavala The new Solaris collection follows the trend of neutral, beige and earthy tones, which were back in a big way on the SS19 catwalks. The new collection’s palette also pays homage to the patchwork and nomad-inspired fashion seen on the global catwalks. The six complementing shades Shiraz, Venezia, Jodphur, Phoenix, Mykonos and Cacao are also perfect for recreating seasonal nail trends, including two-tone nail styles. RRP: £5.20 01732 459412 mavala.co.uk
Morgan Taylor
CND CND’s Sweet Escape aims to depict the brand’s core client who is perceived as “delicate but sharp, fresh but disruptive, gracious but formidable, pleasing but assertive”. This collection features five colours that are both bold and beautiful and comprises dusty pink Poetry, barely-there Antique, orange Soulmate, sandy Exquisite, and lilac pink Coquette. Trade: £4.95 per Vinylux, £13.95 per Shellac 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
Inspired by the “soft and subtle colours of favourite flowers”, Morgan Taylor’s Spring 2019 collection is named The Colour Of Petals. The range comprises plush pastels in shades of pretty pinks, toned-down nudes, and pops of peach and purple. Merci Bouquet is a lilac crème, Gardenia My Heart a dusty rose, I Feel Flower-ful a light nude, Young, Wild & Free-sia a soft peach, Follow The Petals a pink pearl, and Strike A Posie is a blush pink. Trade: £4.95 each 020 8238 6300 (Louella Belle) louellabelle.co.uk
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Artistic Nail Design
OPI The new OPI Collection is inspired by Toyko’s balance of rich tradition, fashion-forward style and ultra-modern cityscapes. Pink shades include Rice Rice Baby, Another Ramen-tic Evening, Arigato from Tokyo, and Hurry-juku Get this Colour!. Rich hues inspired by nature from matcha green tea to blooming gardens can be seen in How Does Your Zen Garden Grow?, I’m On a Sushi Roll, Suzi-san Climbs Fuji-san, and Tempura-ture is Rising! Vibrant purple and blue hues with metallic shimmer shades are All Your Dreams in Vending Machines, Samurai Breaks a Nail, Kanpai OPI!, and Chopstix and Stones. Trade: £5.25 per Nail Lacquer, £6.50 per Infinite Shine, £16.90 per Gel colour. 01923 240010
The Paint My Passion Spring 2019 collection from Artistic features a range of vibrant pastels and pops of bright colour. Guy Meets Gal-lery is a royal purple crème; Don’t Hate, Create! a bright turquoise, PicasSo Pink a hot pink, and A Muse Of My Own is light coral. Create an even more eye-catching look with Abstract Beauty, an iridescent glitter to use over these spring shades. Trade: £16.95 per gel; £5.95 per polish; £12.95 per Perfect Dip 020 8238 6300 (Louella Belle) louellabelle.co.uk
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Orly The bright tones in Orly’s Radical Optimism spring collection aim to calm the senses while simultaneously energising the spirit. Fresh colours like Aqua Blue and Coral are designed to reflect fresh, spring fruits and flowers. The range also includes Lovella, a nude crème; Everything’s Peachy, a bright peach; Positive Coral-ation, a light coral crème; Coming Up Roses, a bubblegum mauve; Spirit Junkie, a lilac pearl shimmer; and Glass Half Full, a light aqua shimmer. Trade: £6.13 per polish, £13.95 per gel. 01827 280080 (Grafton International) graftons.co.uk
Lecenté To celebrate the return of summer, Lecenté has launched four new glitters and four foils for the season. Petal gives a soft blush of pink with lavender undertones, while Wisteria and Maple both create rose-gold tones. Amber takes a spin on the 2019 Pantone colour of the year, Living Coral, offering a darker, more bronzed approach. The four foils give options to change looks and create unique and individual designs. Trade: £3.99 each 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
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SS19 Make-up and Nails
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Bold
MOVES
SALLY SALON SERVICES ran a SS19 photoshoot to showcase the latest trends in beauty. Lydia Mormen went behind the scenes
U
K beauty and hair supplier Salon Services held the Sally’s SS19 Showcase for beauty pros and press, to forecast the 2019 trends in make-up, nails and hair that clients will be queuing up to get as soon as spring arrives. Inspired by the season’s boldest trends, Salon Services’ experts interpreted SS19 predictions to bring out clients’ confidence. The trends are about expressing individuality and putting your creativity in the limelight. While this season’s make-up has a matte, neutral finish, it can be emboldened with a slick of metallic colour on the eyelids, and complemented with colour blocking on the nails. Bold palettes of fresh teal and iconic red can be softened with muted tones of terracotta.
GET THE LOOK Colour block Nails by Nina Subasic Make a bold and stylish statement with high-contrast colour blocking on mid-length nails. Strong shapes and vivid shades let your clients’ personality shine.
STEP 1 Use ASP Powerset acrylic pink and sculpt the nails into a neat olive shape. Leave the length shorter to create an edgy look STEP 2 Taking inspiration from the colour-blocking trend, apply block colours of gel polish freehand to create a design. Subasic used shades from the ASP Signature range, including Shadow, Laguna, Monte Carlo, Juicy Lucy and Footsteps in the Snow STEP 3 Using a dotting tool and black gel polish, add definition with even lines of dots along the edges of your colour blocks STEP 4 Apply topcoat for a high-gloss finish. professionalbeauty.co.uk
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GET THE LOOK Bold is beautiful by Georgia Cutts
SS19 Make-up and Nails
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The timeless smoky eye is getting a revamp this spring, using dark, silvery shades and bronze hues, to suit all clients. Team a dramatic shimmery eye with a nude lipstick to add subtle shimmer and let the eyes do the work.
STEP 1 Use a concealer with a flat brush to map out and define the shape of the wing STEP 2 Apply a shimmering olive-toned pressed eyeshadow onto the lid, packing on the colour using a stiff brush. Cutts used shade Psyche from the Bodyography Disco ‘Til Dawn Palette. STEP 3 Next, apply Ardell Beauty Faux Mink MultiLayering Mascara in Supreme Black to the top lashes STEP 4 Lightly brush the brows with Ardell Brow Confidentil Brow Duo to add texture STEP 5 Use a concealer to cover any imperfections and keep the look light and natural STEP 6 Finish with a translucent powder, highlighter and a nude lipstick.
GET THE LOOK "No make-up" make up by Georgia Cutts The "no make-up" make-up look is set to see a huge resurgence in popularity during the warmer months, with flawless, bright skin and flirty lashes predicted to be the look of the season, and the best thing about this look? Natural beauty suits everyone.
STEP 1 Begin by prepping skin with your favorite primer
STEP 2 Next, use a compact foundation to form a natural base on the skin. Cutts used Bodyography’s Base Silk Cream. STEP 3 Use a contour palette such as Contour Cosmetics to add definition to the cheekbones STEP 4 Finish the look with Bodyography’s Blur, Set, Perfect Finishing Powder to create a matte finish STEP 5 For the lips, apply the shade Sticks & Stones from the Palladio Ombré 2-in-1 Lip Colour collection STEP 6 For the eyes, use a matte terracotta shade, and then highlight with a pearlescent peach. Cutts used Killer then Boogie & Dream On from Bodyography's Disco ‘Til Dawn palette STEP 7 Finish by using the Ardell Beauty Mega Volume Never Flat Mascara to open up the eyes and complete the look. PB professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Launch Analysis
102
Greener
pastures
A 44,000sq ft eco-friendly hotel spa is opening in Horsham – a sister property to the renowned Pennyhill Park. AMANDA PAULEY gets a first look at The Spa at South Lodge
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ith the Government clamping down on plastic waste and new independent body The Sustainable Spa Association forming to help spas reduce their water consumption, creating a business that’s eco-friendly is now as important as delivering a first-class service. The Spa at South Lodge, hidden in Surrey’s breathtaking countryside, is opening this month with a mission to successfully merge the two, boasting respectable green credentials alongside a wellness ethos aimed at an array of client needs. The 44,000sq ft spa building sits in the same 85 acres as South Lodge Hotel in Horsham, with clients transported to each via stretched electric tuk-tuks. However, this expansion isn’t surprising given that owner, Exclusive Hotels & Venues, also has Pennyhill Park Hotel & Spa in Bagshot on its books, which is one of the best known wellness destinations in the UK and has won countless awards, including PB’s Residential Spa of the Year: 11 Rooms or More 2018. “We’re the sister hotel of Pennyhill Park and we want to make our mark just like they did. We’ve got these amazing eco credentials and we’re going to use those to get our name out there,” says spa manager Sara Young. “We’re very lucky because there aren’t many spas that can say they are paper-free, make their own electricity [provided by biomass boilers and photovoltaic solar cells], and clean their own water.” The spa is tucked into the natural contours of the land, thanks to its grass and wildflower roof, designed by
architect Felce & Guy Partnership, which makes it look like it’s part of the rolling hills. This not only ties in with the business’s sustainability pledge, as the roof helps to insulate the building, but it also provides a natural habitat for nearby wildlife. Although the spa isn’t completely plasticfree, plastic straws and cups have been banned and other measures are being implemented to make sure the business is doing all it can to reduce waste. “I’m looking at small changes that could have a big impact. For example, bio bags for clients to put their swimming costumes in when wet rather than plastic ones, and using compostable takeaway packaging in our poolside food and beverage operation Watershed, which we can recycle and use as compost for the grounds,” explains Young.
Above and beyond But opening this mega spa doesn’t just make good business sense, it’s also the product of demand from the hotel’s guests. “We have a strong conference business at South Lodge – it made up 35% of our guests between April to December 2018. Our corporate bookings ask us what we can provide in the spa and wellness realm and now we can deliver a great experience,” says Young.
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The spa will house a variety of facilities, ranging Exclusive Hotels’ own product range The Spa, from 14 nature-themed treatment rooms (including which is also used at Pennyhill Park. “It’s about one couple’s suite linked to a rasul), an indoor infinitytapping into clients who would visit high-street edge ozone-treated pool, outdoor vitality hydrotherapy salons and turning them into long-term guests pool, jasmine-infused sauna and two steam rooms who transition into the spa,” explains Young. (one salt and one herbal), as well as a 2,000sq ft gym. “We want to be clients’ one-stop shop, offering The sauna room is glass-fronted, so guests can look out comparable prices to what they normally pay for to views of the South Downs, providing the “wow” factor, these services while providing more of a ‘mini while the spa also boasts what Young says is the “UK’s first spa’ experience. Our manicures and pedicures heated outdoor swim pond”, are priced at a premium high-street which will be warmed to rate and if guests enjoy this then 21–23ºC from April to October, they may book in for more.” Opening: March 2019 depending on the ambient The spa is also launching with a Size: 44,000sq ft temperature. “Outdoor membership scheme to help the Budget: £15 million swimming is growing in business start off with a regular Treatment rooms: 14 popularity so this will help income. A five-day membership (including one couple’s suite) set us apart,” adds Young. (Monday to Friday), which includes Staff: 65 (including 20 therapists) The gym houses a TRX rig, access to all facilities, is £2,000 Brands: Omorovicza, The Spa gym terrace for “alfresco” a year, plus a £500 joining fee; a training – tying in with the spa’s seven-day membership is £2,500 message of “helping to bring the inside out and the outside annually, with the same joining fee. Retail in” – dedicated spin studio and a holistic studio, “where we purchases, spa treatments and personal will do yoga, Pilates and tai chi, along with fun activities, training sessions are paid for separately. such as drum and bass boxercise and anger-management Staff have already sold 100 memberships exercise classes – to help clients unwind at the end of a and have another 30 people lined up waiting stressful day”, says Young. to join. “We want to build a really strong membership base because we’ve got a spa One-stop shop in an area that isn’t busy with competitors. The spa’s sheer size also means that a separate, “almost There’s not really any membership spa options mini shopping centre space”, has been created alongside near us either,” explains Young. the traditional spa area, housing standalone restaurant “We emailed our database and told them Botanica, which provides a range of healthy meals including they could have access to the facilities before the Wasted Burger – made entirely from leftover anyone else at the soft launch, as well as enjoy ingredients from juices made in the morning; and 50% off a spa treatment and discounts in The Ridgeview Beauty Bar, sponsored by Ridgeview Botanica, if they signed up before the official Sparkling Wine, offering express beauty services such opening. It was a great way to secure paid as manicures, pedicures and brows with a complimentary membership early.” The future looks bright for glass of sparkling wine. There is also a male grooming The Spa at South Lodge. Young’s long-term space, with local business partner Grizzly’s providing the goal? “To cement our future with impressive barbering services; and a prominent retail area selling sales and by winning industry awards.” PB
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Brand View
107
Winds of
CHANGE
As the International Institute for Anti-Ageing (IIAA) celebrates its 25th anniversary, founder David Alpert talks about the company’s eco ethos and why the beauty industry needs to invest in more sustainable practices to help reduce plastic waste
T
celebrating 25 years in the beauty industry, rising from
Why is sustainability such a hot topic in the beauty industry?
a small distribution company to one of the sector’s
Our industry is responsible for billions
leading names, distributing advanced skincare
of single-use packaging items per annum.
brand Environ, mineral make-up range Jane Iredale,
I visited the Artic last summer, as I have a
and its own brand, Advanced Nutrition Programme
passion for photography, and on the shore
(ANP) supplements, to thousands of salons.
line 10 degrees from the North Pole was tons
he International Institute for Anti-Ageing (IIAA) is
The company has made a name for itself not only
for its quality brands but for its strong eco ethos, which is important at a time when the Government is moving towards a bigger sustainability drive in all industries. Company founder David Alpert talks us through the
of plastic packaging, and a lot of it was from big beauty brands. It really brought home the fact that we need to address this issue because what we’re doing as an industry is not sustainable.
business’s eco practices and reveals what needs to be
If we don’t look after the environment it will
done by larger beauty corporations and high-street
reach a point of no return.
salons alike to reduce our impact on the environment.
What can salons do to become more eco-friendly? It starts with a change of mindset. Start small – for example, looking at your cleaning fluids to check they’re bio-friendly and making sure staff switch off computers at night to reduce electrical use – and then build it up. Salons should also be demanding more from their suppliers in terms of sustainable packaging. For example, many salons put homecare products in paper bags for clients to take away but the rope handle may be made from plastic, not natural fibres – these are the things you need to ask about. >
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Brand View
108 When you give a bag, it should be 100% biodegradable.
What sustainable business practices does IIAA have in place? As a distributor, we supply products to thousands of salons and these businesses deal with tens of thousands of clients, which gives us the opportunity to influence a broad range of people and really get the sustainability message out there. We have an internal “green team” that meets monthly to look at what we can do to make the business more sustainable and we’ve done a lot already – using corn starch
to derive a sustainable income from the sale of products,
chips instead of foam ones when packaging
but the internet has changed this, with retail sales having
up goods because they dissolve away to
gone elsewhere – blurring the line between consumer and
nothing after a few minutes in water; only
professional products.
using recycled paper and vegetable ink
It has been a potential threat to the viability of many
when printing because it doesn’t present a
businesses, reducing their income. To meet this challenge,
problem for the environment; and changing
skincare professionals need to provide value at the point of
shipping from air freight to sea freight to
purchase – keeping clients engaged post-treatment so they
massively reduce our carbon footprint.
will buy on-site rather than shopping around online. Clients
However, the biggest project was
Previous page: plastic waste in the Arctic; David Alpert with wife and IIAA co-founder Tracy Tamaris This page: images of IIAA’s packing plant and packaging
will do that if they feel they are getting the right advice.
building our packing plant in 2017 so we to recycled paper cartons. This was unique
You’re launching the IIAA Foundation this year. What’s it all about?
because no one else in the industry was
We wanted to launch something that would effect real change in
doing anything like it, and now we’re
the world, which is why we’re launching the IIAA Foundation in
looking at moving towards creating
the coming months. All proceeds will go to our two beneficiaries
recyclable paper packet vitamin refills
– the Katie Piper Foundation and Wild Aid – and the way it works
that can be poured into the cardboard
is that salons donate to the cause by placing orders with us,
pots, further reducing waste.
and as a company we will match their contributions.
could switch all of ANP’s plastic packaging
We’re also working with other beauty
Wild Aid is an environmental foundation that looks at
organisations through industry body
education as a means to prevent unsustainable practices
the Beauty Companies Association
such as consuming rhino horn or shark fins. Its motto
(BCA) to show them what we’ve done
is – only when the buying stops we will the killing stop
with sustainable packaging. The hope is
– and there’s a tremendous amount that can be done.
that we will influence others to do the same.
The Katie Piper Foundation was chosen because we wanted to contribute to something beauty industry-related and this was by far the most meaningful. There are people who have sustained injuries, sometimes by industrial actions, others under malicious circumstances, that have caused the most horrendous facial disfigurements, and being able to help them is such a positive thing. The idea came to my attention after I was invited to a luncheon at the House of Lords where I heard from women with facial disfigurements and it was so moving to hear their stories. PB
What’s the biggest issue facing the salon market? While many other industries are in decline, the beauty sector is growing positively and that is partly because of the age of the internet and social media. Although this is good, it has presented some challenges. Historically, salon owners have been able
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Education
113
Making the
grade
Are schools responsible for the drop in students coming into the industry or is it employers’ fault for not doing enough?, asks JO HARRIS, general manager of The London School of Beauty and Make-Up
T
here’s a major issue with the number of students entering the beauty industry, and you can see from the mergers happening in further education (FE) colleges, and the closure of private ones, that it’s only a matter of time before the bottom falls out. How are we supposed to support the amazing array of spas, salons and clinics in the industry, which are opening faster than I can say “beauty therapist”, without the people power to do so? There are several reasons this is happening, and I believe the biggest is changes within schools. The Government now requires students to stay in education until they are 18 years old or to join the workforce by way of an apprenticeship – in our sector this route has been contentious, with funding reduced to the point that most employers think it’s not worth wasting their time.
Money talks Meanwhile, a new report by think tank the Institute for Public Policy Research (IPPR), which Professional Beauty reported on last month, revealed that schools are preventing pupils from finding out about A Level alternatives because they don’t want to lose sixth form funding. It stated that fewer than two fifths of secondary schools have been complying with the legal requirement to allow colleges to advertise vocational qualifications to pupils from the age of 12, with many colleges complaining of “selective compliance”. Secondary schools are doing all they can to keep their students for as long as possible, so we need to be doing even more to encourage students into the industry.
We have lots of information available to those already in the sector in the form of magazines, online platforms and recruitment opportunities; however, we’re talking to the same pool of people.
New school of thought We’re living in an age where it’s vital to think outside the box with our messaging. With genderneutral statuses taking on a bigger role in society, and vocational colleges complaining of a falling female workforce entering the industry, it’s clear we need to encourage a wider audience to enter the beauty market. It raises the question of whether we should streamline our roles better? For example, with the rise of wellness, does the word “beauty” still adequately apply to all that we do for clients? Plus, would it be more appealing to students of both sexes to have the title of aesthetic or holistic therapist rather than beauty therapist, showing a greater range in what the sector does? Secondary schools are never going to sell ours or any other vocational offering on our behalf, so it’s important to maintain relationships with school career advisors. It’s up to us to reach our audience in a way that will engage and encourage them, and social media can play a big part. It would great to see a national “we need you” campaign launched, backed by beauty employers and educational authorities, to enroll the next generation of treatment professionals to secure our industry’s future success. PB
Jo Harris is general manager of The London School of Beauty and Make-Up, part of Urban Retreat group. She’s also founder of consultancy Business of Beauty. Her revious roles include general manager of Urban Retreat salon in Harrods.
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Holistic Therapies
116
Spas GET spiritual GEORGIA SEAGO finds out why spiritual healing therapies are trending in salons and spas
T
he words “healing”, “holistic” and “energy” are increasingly cropping on salon and spa treatment menus across the country, after years of being confined to the back rooms of incensefilled shops. "People used to keep their spiritual beliefs under the radar but now it’s the ‘in’ thing,” says Kim Alexis, a psychic spiritual medium, clinical hypnotherapist, crystal healer and past life regressionist, who is based in London. “On one level it’s great because it shows openness and that people are waking up to alternative ways of living; but there are a lot of people now calling themselves psychics or healers after just doing a weekend course,” she says. And it’s not just a UK trend. Saxon Spa in Johannesburg, South Africa, has seen an uptick in visitors taking part in energy-based healing therapies of late, having added a crystal-healing element to its sound therapy experience when the spa was refurbished in 2016. “We are one of very few places where you can experience these treatments locally, so we do tend to highlight that in communications, especially as it has become
a trend internationally,” says spa manager Tanya Lopes.
Authentic approach As holistic and energy-based treatments have started to find their way into beauty businesses around the world, it is important that salon owners can distinguish between a beauty treatment with a twist and in-depth spiritual work, using the correct terms and making sure practitioners are suitably qualified, whatever the treatment. “Anyone can give a nice facial using a crystal roller but that isn’t crystal healing,” explains Alexis. “As a qualified crystal healer, you can pick up on a person’s energy and you’ll feel where someone has certain blockages, whether emotional or physical. I’ll be able to go in and take on that energy and release it. There’s a big difference between a beauty treatment and healing; you have to be a trained healer to know what you’re doing, just like you have to be trained to be a proper beauty therapist,” she says. With first-hand experience of the crossover of these two schools of therapy, energy therapist Sarah Cox has seen big changes in
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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117
her business. “Over the past seven years, I've seen a dramatic change in people’s attitudes towards healing, crystals and natural health – suddenly every magazine is talking about it, but when we started not many people even knew what a chakra was,” she says. Cox is founder of Zephorium Soul Tonic, a UK-based natural aromatherapy skincare brand created in line with the chakra system. Zephorium started out selling to holistic practitioners such as yoga teachers and reiki healers, but the majority of new stockists now are salons and spas.
The global movement towards more natural, authentic and sustainable ways of living is evolving all the time; and Alexis believes that spiritual healing could be here to stay in mainstream consciousness. “People are increasingly interested in natural ways of living, so its inevitable that they will follow on to the next level of seeking spiritual or energy work to heal themselves, and I think it’s only going to spread further,” she says. PB
Making partnerships When it comes to bringing in practitioners to carry out real energy work on spa guests, Alexis advises that extensive research and consultation with the right professionals should be undertaken seriously. “You need to see qualifications and evidence of where they’ve studied and their insurance to know that they’re authentic,” she says. “There are schools that teach healing and award varying levels of diploma and qualifications, as well as independent practitioners who are recognised as teachers.”
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4
Finance
121
WAYS
you’re
losing money
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With the uncertainty of Brexit hanging in the balance, we’re all looking at ways to cut costs. Business consultant LIZ HOLMES outlines four mistakes your salon or spa could be making
e spend so much time searching for new ways to bring money into the spa or salon, it can be easy to overlook the things that cost more than they need to. Liz Holmes, owner of consultancy Commercial Spa Strategies and former spa director at Rockliffe Hall in County Durham, shares four common mistakes spas make and, more importantly, how you can fix them to start saving money.
1. Not having a set of values “What I see a lot in the industry is businesses that are not really clear about their purpose,” says Holmes. “Millennials in particular now want to have a relatable brand experience. So, when beauty salons and spas set up, it’s really important to have a set of values that people can relate to. Once that underpins your story, suddenly everything you do becomes more authentic and, in my experience, can drive a higher price point.”
2. Lack of clarity in your strategy “Most spas spend at least half of their income on payroll,” says Holmes. “As an industry, we are so good at supporting one another because, as therapists, we’re all about empathy, but I’ve come across a lot of examples of people not providing enough challenge to their teams. A balance between challenge and support is really important. “If half your income is spent on payroll, let’s make sure that delivers. Have clear objectives, be open with your financial targets, and ensure when each therapist turns up for work they’re clear about what’s expected of
them during that day; whether it’s driving client retention, rebooking or retail.”
3. Poor retail focus “The industry average still sits at around 10% retail-totreatment revenue ratio and that’s fairly poor,” says Holmes. “We don’t focus enough on merchandising, promotions, window displays, and changing themes in the same way the high street does. “Spas and salons need to think of themselves as high-street retailers and use some of the ideas they provide, rather than restrict ourselves just to selling skincare. Anything that’s spa lifestylerelated is something that could be on our shelves, and actually a lot of those products come with much better profitability.”
4. Not having a clear USP “When I’m putting together a business plan for a spa, I’m often asked to do a competitor analysis – what are other spas charging? – and that’s fine, but if you really want to have a business with a point of difference, don’t just look at what other people are doing,” advises Holmes. “Get really clear on what your unique selling point is. You could potentially be £20 more expensive for a 60-minute treatment, providing the value is there and your target audience is right. As soon as we start to think like that we start to drive our business for success.” PB
Liz Holmes is director of consultancy Commercial Spa Strategies and has more than 15 years’ experience in the spa and wellness sector, having previously held senior roles including spa director at Rockliffe Hall, County Durham, and national health and beauty manager at Virgin Active. Watch her video on how to cut costs at professionalbeauty.co.uk/PBTV professionalbeauty.co.uk
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When CLIENTS
turn BAD
Rude or aggressive customer behaviour is unfortunately something spas and salons have to deal with. BECKY WOODHOUSE, founder of Pure Spa & Beauty, explains how to handle challenging clients
S
pas provide a happiness service, so you wouldn’t necessarily think you’d encounter many difficult clients or situations, but unfortunately they do occur and you and your team need to be prepared for them. Some of the most common challenging scenarios you could be faced with include:
Abuse and violence If a client has a complaint about poor service, the normal way to raise it would be to speak to the therapist, receptionist or another team member. The staff member would then try to address the complaint to the satisfaction of the customer. However, it’s not acceptable for the client to become abusive, threatening or act in a way that is upsetting or even frightening for the staff member dealing with the complaint.
As an employer, you have a duty of care to protect your team against violence and abuse in the workplace. You should have a written policy for such scenarios and make sure everyone is trained on it. The policy could, for example, be that if a member of staff feels uncomfortable when dealing with a client, they should immediately get their line manager. Your managers should also have specialist training on how to handle abusive or violent clients. This could be done by sharing best practice or sending them on a course for how to deal with these types of situations. Although there is a cost attached to specialist training, your business will be much better protected if you have managers who are confident in dealing >
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with these issues. All incidents should be logged, so you can efer to them, and in case any follow-up is required. If, for example, you need to call the police, they will want a record of what happened.
Fraudulent claims A client has a treatment in your spa; there are no complaints, she even says how much she loves it and leaves a tip for the therapist. Then, a few weeks later, you receive a letter from a “no win, no fee” lawyer claiming their client had an allergic reaction, injured herself or became ill as a result of her visit to the spa and is looking for compensation. This scenario has become increasingly common in recent years, leading to revenue loss for businesses, driving up insurance costs and making it harder for valid claims to be dealt with correctly. The best way to prepare for a fraudulent claim is to make sure that: • Your processes and procedures are followed rigorously • Your paperwork is in order • Your staff are well-trained and can handle any incidents that occur • You contact your insurance company early on, when something happens.
responsible for everyone visiting or working within your premises, so you need to equip your team with the skills to cope with all kinds of scenarios, including someone falling ill. Make sure you have a list of important phone numbers in a prominent place, including numbers for senior management, your insurance company, local police, doctors and hospitals. Also list the key holders and people responsible for health and safety. If your spa is located within a larger complex, like a hotel or shopping centre, there may be additional procedures you need to follow. Ensure staff are aware that they need to complete an incident report if there is an accident – it’s a legal requirement. You should also review your incident log at least once a year, and look at your health and safety provisions. Are they adequate or could anything have been done to prevent any accidents that occurred? By regularly reviewing your processes, you can make small improvements that will hopefully reduce the number of future incidents. Overall, my advice would be that if you’re faced with a problematic client incident, share that experience with your team and make sure everyone learns from it. The more your team knows about dealing with challenging circumstances, the more confident they will feel in handling such situations in a calm way, minimising the negative impact for themselves and the business. PB
Don’t forget, your consultation form should include questions about any pre-existing conditions that might affect treatment. If an accident does occur, make sure your accident log is filled in and signed by all relevant parties – even if there are no obvious signs of injury. This ensures you have a clear record of what happened and will help you identify and resolve potential issues before they turn into something bigger.
Serious illness Although it’s rare, there could be a time when a client genuinely becomes seriously ill in your spa. As a business, you’re
Becky Woodhouse is chief executive of Pure Spa & Beauty, which offers beauty and spa treatments in seven locations across Scotland, and one in London. She has a background as a chartered accountant and previously worked for PricewaterhouseCoopers.
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CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL THE WINNERS www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbawards
THANK YOU TO ALL OUR SPONSORS
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127 Nail News
Going wild Celebrity manicurist Roxanne Campbell has opened her first nail studio in London in collaboration with Rose & Wild Hair Concept. Campbell has built up her profile in the industry over the last 12 years, working with prestigious designers and creating nails for high-profile celebrities including Adele, Dua Lipa, Jourdan Dunn and Winnie Harlow. Located on New King’s Road, in Fulham, the Scandi-style, cozy studio features two manicure stations and two pedicure stations.
NAIL BITES A celebrity nail artist opens her own studio, Orly walks us through extensions created with its latest innovation and we explore a hot salon in Manchester DESIGN AND BUILD Orly’s Gel FX Builder in a Bottle is a new soak-off sculpting gel for extensions, which is applied like a soft gel but wears like a hard gel
STEP 1 Cleanse nails for a dry manicure and remove shine with a 180-grit file, softening edges of file before use, then paint Gel FX Primer onto the entire nail STEP 2 Apply Gel FX Perfect Fit Nail Forms then use Gel FX Builder in a Bottle to sculpt tips to desired length onto one third of the nail plate, just above the free edge, and flash cure for 10 seconds STEP 3 Apply a thin layer of Builder in a Bottle onto the entire nail surface, reinforce the sidewalls but do not cure, then float a bead of the gel down the centre of the nail to create an arch. Flash cure for 10 seconds then repeat on all nails and finish with a full cure of 30 seconds
HEALTHY ETHOS Bio Sculpture has launched a refreshed version of its treatment range with a strong onus on nail health. The Ethos range includes eight products with some new and
STEP 4 Remove the forms, cleanse nails with alcohol, then
improved formulas. Completely
file, shape, buff and cleanse again to remove debris before applying your chosen gel colour and topcoat, curing each layer for 30 seconds.
new products include Volcanic Base, to strengthen soft nails, Seaweed Calcium Base, to promote flexibility and suppleness in hard, dry and brittle nails, and Oxycoat, which is designed to nourish the nail from the base up. In launching the range, Bio Sculpture says it wants to increase and promote nail health in a way that makes the treatments easier to understand. The products come in elegant, debossed packaging.
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SALON SPOTLIGHT New Church House, Manchester Opened: November 2016 as Barn It, rebranded to New Church House in December 2018. Techs: Four Brands: Artistic, Bio Sculpture, Footlogix, Salt of the Earth Design vibe: “We are based in a beautiful, heritage building and our design is sympathetic to the look of the architecture with a luxury yet cool vibe. We have five floors with a different look on each. “Our nail bar floor, with pink walls and a copper bar is very ‘instagramable’; the lighting is perfect for our techs and, as our nail bar is also a cocktail bar, we provide a quirky element to beauty treatments.” USP: “We focus on offering a five-star customer experience. We encourage customers to soak up the atmosphere before and after their treatments; they often stay for cocktails after having their nails done. We also cater for groups and parties who want to socialise with their friends or colleagues while having their treatments.” Bookings: “Clients can download our app, book on our website or call the salon.”
Typical client: “We have a lot of loyal customers, but our central location in Manchester means we also get a lot of group bookings too. Most of our custom comes from word of mouth.” Most popular service: “Gel overlay with Artistic Colour Gloss or Bio Sculpture Gel.”
Most popular colour: “A deep plum is a classic favourite with our clients year-round – Fab in Artistic or Pinotage in Bio Sculpture.” Future plans: “To expand our beauty and nail offering. We still have a floor in our building that’s not yet in use so have started working on a new design which will create more space for us to expand.” Lynsey Smith is owner of New Church House, Manchester new-churchhouse.co.uk @barnitmcr @newchurchhouse professionalbeauty.co.uk
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SEE US ON STAND K16
23-24 March 2019 Olympia London
SEE US ON STAND K16
23-24 March 2019 Olympia London
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Staff Strategy
131
Recovering TRAINING costs
It can be expensive to train staff, only for them to leave and take that knowledge to a competitor. DAVID WRIGHT explains the legalities of reclaiming training costs
I
n your contracts, there is probably a paragraph giving you the facility to recover costs if an employee leaves within a set period of time after completing some training. The paragraph must be reasonable and non-discriminatory. For example, you couldn’t require staff to remain for 10 years after a one-day course. It’s a good idea for the employee to sign an agreement ahead of each training event to reinforce the contract and advise them of the cost of that particular course. You could include travel costs and accommodation but not wages received during training. It’s a good idea to have a specific paragraph giving you the right to recover the costs from their final salary. When you receive their notice, remind the employee of their commitments and ideally reach an agreement as to how and when you will recover the money. Avoid the situation where the employee is unaware that their pay is being reduced until they get their final pay and realise a significant chunk has been withheld. The employee may then dash off to get legal advice.
Potential problems Over the past 12 months, I have seen these deductions being challenged on a range of grounds such as: • they were an unlawful deduction of pay • the employee hadn’t agreed to them • the VAT element shouldn’t have been recovered • more than one person attended so the cost was not accurate • the training was free to the employer • the training was in the employee’s own time • the deduction meant they didn’t get minimum wage • the employee hadn’t left, they had been dismissed • the employee had never signed their contract. Most of these issues could have been avoided with a discussion prior to the employee leaving.
A recent employment tribunal case arose after an employer deducted training costs without consultation. On appointment, the employee had signed a form agreeing to repay training costs if she left for any reason. After a few months, she texted the owner to say she’d be off for a period of time with work-related stress. The employer replied effectively saying they were treating the text as her resignation with immediate effect. Training costs for the course were deducted from her final pay without any discussion. She made a claim against the employer. During the hearing, it transpired she hadn’t actually been paid for attending the training. Legally, the employee was entitled to one week’s notice, which she hadn’t received, meaning she’d been wrongfully dismissed. She didn’t have two years’ service so couldn’t claim unfair dismissal. The tribunal concluded that while she had voluntarily signed the agreement, the dismissal without notice breached her contract, meaning the employer wasn’t able to rely on the agreement about training costs. The tribunal also made specific negative comment about the salon’s practice of not paying staff for attending training or requiring them to use holiday.
The minimum wage issue HMRC has confirmed that employers can make deductions from pay if training was mandatory rather than voluntary, unless they take the employee below national minimum wage. In these cases, employers would have to decide which training was mandatory and which voluntary, and keep a record of whether the employee was given the option to decline. PB
David Wright is a consultant in all aspects of employment practice and law. He is the main employment law consultant for Habia and provides a personalised support service for UK salons. Tel: 01302 563691 davidwrightpersonnel.co.uk
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SEE US ON STAND K20
STAND 58 1 & 2 MARCH 2019 / LONDON
23-24 March 2019 Olympia London
SEE US ON STAND K20
Baldan Group Iridium Eye Pressotherapy This 10-minute lymphatic drainage treatment targets the eye area, aiming to promote deeper penetration of products, induce relaxation, and prevent puffiness and swelling. It’s designed as an add-on to facials and other salon treatments. Placed on the skin, the device is fitted with disposable woven bandages to ensure good hygiene standards and a speedy turnaround between clients. Once in place, the device’s massage motion drains fluid from bags under the eyes and stimulates acupressure points to relieve muscle tension in the forehead and eye contour area, reducing stress and fatigue. It is gently heated to improve blood circulation, providing relief to dry eyes and allowing for better product absorption. Meditation music is built into the device, creating an atmosphere of tranquility to induce a sense of wellness. The Baldan Group recommends charging £20 per treatment. Call the brand on 020 3488 2938
Treatment News
133
Right on
TARGET
Targeted anti-ageing treatments for the eyes and hands, as well as the face, showcase in our pick of treatment launches this month
LPG Endermologie Hand Treatment Exposed to the elements and often neglected, the hands can reveal a person’s true age. In response, LPG has refined its Endermologie technology to offer a dedicated treatment for the hand area, aiming to reverse the signs of ageing. Prior to treatment, the therapist discusses the client’s desired outcome and assesses the quality of the skin, including any age damage, to determine what strength of the Cellu M6 Alliance to use. The treatment head then applies a gentle stimulation to the skin for 10 minutes, or longer if the client requires it. Much like when it is used on the rest of the body and face, the treatment naturally stimulates the skin’s surface, reactivating cells and firming tissue. As a result, the company says hyaluronic acid production is increased by up to 80%, boosting suppleness, skin is firmed by up to 70%, and fine lines are smoothed by up to 87%. For optimum results – and to provide a retail opportunity – the treatment can be combined with application of the brand’s Anti-Ageing Hand and Lip Cream. LPG recommends charging £20 per 10 minutes. Call distributor Technical Laser Care on 01462 337224
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Treatment News
134 The Natural Spa Factory Mother’s Day 2019 treatments British spa skincare brand The Natural Spa Factory has launched a capsule collection of treatments for Mother’s Day, combining ancient spa rituals with indulgent ingredients. The Marine Collagen & Caviar Facial commences with a deep cleanse using the brand’s Caviar and Gold Cleanser, followed by a marine collagen-infused face mask. Clients then relax into this nutrient-rich facial with a detoxing neck and shoulder seaweed massage. To conclude, there’s an application of the brand’s radiance-boosting Gold Serum and Moisturiser. The other treatment is Rose Revival Rasul, a 45-minute therapy involving a scrub, application of therapeutic muds, steam and hydrating body milk. The Natural Spa Factory recommends charging £80 for the 60-minute facial and £60 for the 45-minute rasul for two people. Call the company on 01225 582888
This month we tried… Guinot Lift Summum Treatment The lowdown: The latest firming facial from Guinot uses stimulating massage techniques and active ingredients to reduce signs of ageing and fatigue. It’s aimed at older clients who want to target loss of firmness, as well as younger customers invested in age prevention. The 50-minute facial is split into three parts – manual lifting, serum “filler” Wrinkle Eraser to plump out lines, and radiance-boosting masks for the face and décolleté. The experience: I headed to The Guinot Salon in Earlsfield, London, for my facial where I was greeted by franchise owner Justyna Rostek. She
began with a double exfoliation using papaya extract and fruit acids, followed by a firming massage – the longest part of the treatment. Lifting movements were then performed to redefine my facial contours. Starting on the jaw line and working her way up, Rostek switched between long, sweeping motions and quick, pinching techniques to stimulate cells and boost skin elasticity. The pressure was firm and created a tightening sensation. Next came the brand’s Wrinkle Eraser serum “filler”, which was worked into my fine lines using a roller ball applicator. Packed with mahogany bark extract, which stimulates collagen XVIII synthesis to help counteract slackening, and longevitine, which boosts hyaluronic acid synthesis, it works to smooth and plump the skin. A sheet mask containing active ingredients was applied to my face and another brightening mask to my décolleté, with both left for 10 minutes while a hand and arm massage was performed. The treatment finished with application of eye and face cream. The verdict: I was pleased with how noticeable my cheek bones were afterwards; they looked a lot more lifted. This facial would be ideal for clients who want to tackle stubborn wrinkles. Business benefits: It’s a hardworking anti-ageing treatment and as such should be marketed to older customers as well as busy city workers who want quick results in their lunch hour. Clients are also gifted the Wrinkle Eraser post-treatment to use at home. Tried by Amanda Pauley Guinot recommends charging £82 for the 50-minute treatment. Call the brand on 01344 873123
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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”
Dr Costas Papageorgiou MD FACS Oculofacial Plastic Surgeon New York Dermatology Group - The Wellness Clinic at Harrods, London - 119 5th Avenue, New York
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Treatment News
136 Thalgo Brightening Lumière Marine treatment This new treatment targets dark spots, pigmentation and uneven skin tone. It is suitable for all skin types and can be tailor-made to suit individual clients. It commences with an application of Resurfacing Cream, which contains corundum, on cleansed skin. Thalgo’s Gentle Clarifying Peel with gluconic and phytic acids is then applied to each dark spot and left to work for eight minutes before an even layer is spread over the whole of the face, then neutralised with the Post-Peel solution. This is followed by an application of the Brightening Mask, which is packed with vitamin C, skin-boosting active oxygen and balancing brown algae extract. The mask is also brushed on each skin mark before being spread over the entire face. The treatment culminates with the brand’s Brightening Cream, applied in light, effleurage movements, followed by Sunscreen SPF 50+. Thalgo recommends charging £50 for the 90-minute treatment (or £75 within London). Call the company on 020 7512 0872
This month we tried… Filorga CryoLED Facial The lowdown: Designed to give an instant lifting and tightening effect, as well as rehydrating the skin and minimising the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, the CryoLED protocol combines a number of treatment modalities. It can also help with psoriasis, eczema, rosacea and acne. Business owner Joanne Fuller from Joanne Fuller Beauty in Hamstreet, Kent, where I tried the treatment, has added her own touches to make it deeply relaxing. The experience: I was treated to a neck and shoulder massage and a full skin cleanse before
a light peel to remove the top layer of cells, which helps the products used in treatment penetrate deeper. Fuller then mixed up the Filorga serums. There’s a choice of four, containing concentrated doses that can be layered to create a tailored, high-performance response to the skincare diagnosis. Then, using controlled thermal shock via the patented CryoLED device, my skin’s temperature was cooled to well below freezing (-18ºC) in a matter of minutes using a cryo-probe. This leads to tightening of the microcirculation blood stream, then dilation of the blood vessels and capillaries, which helps flush toxins and impurities and increase oxygen and nutrient supply to the skin. The next stage was a hydrating Hyaluronic Youth Mask, which my skin lapped up. Then Fuller used the device to perform 15 minutes of light therapy and, to finish, the Skin Perfusion, medi-grade skincare was applied, including a day cream, eye cream and SPF. The verdict: The treatment was surprisingly relaxing and I loved the cooling sensation. I turned 40 in January and have recently noticed increased signs of ageing around my eyes, so the soothing, de-puffing element in the eye area was great for me. As well as treating the face, the treatment also targets the décolletage, another key concern for me as I get older. Business benefits: The treatment can be sold as a one-off facial, as results are immediate, or as a course for optimum results. The Cryotherapy element gives this treatment a point of difference. Tried by Vicky Eldridge Filorga recommends charging £75 to £99 for a 60-minute facial. Call the company on 07392 854949
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Introducing Heaven Gel Polish. Here’s how we Nailed it and how you can ‘Nail It’ in your salon too. Gel polishes score huge points for their ability to wear longer and stronger than a traditional manicure. That’s because the base formula for gel polish is made of up of photo-reactive ingredients that cure with UV or LED light and creates a bond that’s more powerful than traditional nail enamel. Heaven Gels can last for as long as 14 days! There is nothing quite like the intense jewel-like shine of heaven gel polishes. The rich, glossy top coat encases colour in a glassy shell that’s beyond dazzling. The ingenious formula keeps the top coat from dulling, so the glistening wet-look lasts and lasts. For those who really love the look of freshly-painted nails, it keeps on shining.
LET US SHOW YOU HOW YOU CAN GET MORE PROFIT. Contact Heaven to get your trial key of Heaven Gel Nails. Please quote code: PB19 when contacting us.
HO: 01952 462505/463574 EMAIL: sales@heavenskincare.com A4 Gel Polish1 PB FEB 19.indd 1 Untitled-86
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e r u t u THE FUTURE f OF FACIALS RELAXATION AND REAL RESULTS Two different technologies, two stand-alone treatments - or combine for even better results.
The latest in smart facial technology is here.
CALL THE TEAM TO DISCOVER MORE nouveauskintherapy.co.uk 0113 2247957
Our academy locations: Glasgow, Yorkshire, Milton Keynes, Purley and Northern Ireland
New Products
139
CND CND is adding to its offer for nail professionals with the Vinylux “Gel-Like” Effect Top Coat, providing a gel-like shine and thickness to any Vinylux color. Also new is the CND LED Lamp with a removable plate, plus three new opaque Brisa Gel Colours in Cool Pink, Natural Beige and Warm Beige. Trade: from £5.95 for the Vinylux Top Coat 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
Glowing Up
Clients will be glowing all over with new highlighters, LED tech and tanning drops
Mii New from Mii come three shades of Light Loving Illuminator as well as travel-size Mii Irresistible Face Base with its twist, dispense, lock and go mechanism. To be used alongside is a new Precise Mineral Kabuki Brush to create a flawless finish. Trade: £6 for mini Face Base, £13.47 for the brush, £9.48 per Illuminator 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com
Elemis Elemis’s latest launches include the Pro-Collagen Definition Face and Neck Serum, containing sea holly and edelweiss plant stem cells, brown algae oligosaccharides and Persian silk tree extract to leave skin with improved definition and tone. The brand is also launching Sea Lavender and Samphire Salt Scrub, formulated with sea lavender, rock samphire, sea salt and chondrus crispus to soothe and condition dehydrated skin, joining the Bath & Shower Milk and Body Cream. RRP: £38 for the salt scrub, £92 for the face and neck serum 0117 316 1888 elemis.com
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New Products
140
Spotlight
3D-lipo’s 3D-Lasersculpt
3D-lipo continues its expansion into the laser arena with the launch of 3D-Lasersculpt, a bodycontouring treatment that uses 1060nm laser technology to reduce stubborn fat in problem areas, such as the abdomen and love handles, helping to achieve a slimmer appearance without surgery or downtime. 3D-lipo managing director Roy Cowley said, “This is a revolution in localised fat removal. It offers a similar concept to cryosculpture but with heat and a much quicker treatment time of just 25 minutes.” During the treatment, applicators are secured onto the skin to deliver the laser energy through the epidermis, without affecting it. The targeted application of laser energy heats the fat cells under the skin, raising the temperature to between 42 and 47ºC to cause the structure to damage via a process called necrosis. The body then identifies the dead cells as waste and drains them naturally via the lymphatic
system, with results visible in eight to 10 weeks. “We want to offer advanced technologies at an affordable price. Each concept we sell is high spec but affordable to our customers and, in turn, affordable for their clients. We are making technology attainable,” adds Cowley. Other benefits of the Laser Sculpt treatment include Advanced Comfort Cooling, precise targeting of problem areas, no downtime and controlled temperature technology. Trade: £40,000 01788 220452 3d-lipo.co.uk
Celluma by Biophotas
Caudalie
New from Celluma by Biophotas is the Celluma Pro, a flexible, shape-taking LED panel that conforms closely to treatment areas, optimising light therapy efficacy. The device has three pre-programmed settings for acne, anti-ageing and pain relief. It is designed to be suitable for use following treatments such as laser, microdermabrasion and peels. Trade: £1,795 +1 714 978 0080 celluma.co.uk
Caudalie’s new night cream Vinoperfect has been formulated using patented ingredient Viniferine, bio-peeling complex, and organic shea butter and grapeseed oil to treat and prevent dark spots. The velvety-textured cream acts as a gentle peel for a visibly brightened and more even complexion. RRP: £34 for 50ml 020 7720 7111 uk.caudalie.com
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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ideas.qxp_FINALS 08/02/2019 11:05 Page 2
PART OF
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New Products
142 Artdeco This spring, Artdeco’s launch Flirt with the Mediterranean Life embraces bright colours such as intense pinks and fresh greens. The collection includes the No Colour Setting Powder, a Magnetic Travel Palette, six new eyeshadows, Waterproof Soft Liner, two blusher shades, the Brow Duo Powder & Liner and Art Couture Nail Lacquer. RRP: from £6 per eyeshadow 028 9061 7403 chleoenterprises.co.uk
HD Brows HD Brows Bare Your Beauty gift box contains four full-sized versions of the brand’s most popular products – Brow Highlighter in shade Pink Nude, Lip Palette in Bombshell, Lip Gloss in Buff and Glow Stick in Champagne. There are also 10 fluid foundation samples to help clients find their perfect match. RRP: £26.50 0113 360 1344 hdbrows.com
Medik8 Medik8’s r-Retinoate Intense combines retinaldehyde and retinyl retinoate for the first time, to create a moisturising formula that Medik8 claims is 11 times faster acting and eight times stronger than retinol. It is formulated to increase firmness, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and stimulate the skin’s defence mechanism. RRP: £210 020 8712 602 medik8.com
Beauty Pro 3D Clay Masks are the latest launches from Beauty Pro. The Lifting mask contains calamine, providing a deep cleanse while tightening pores, improving tone and elasticity and hydrating the skin. The Purifying mask, containing activated charcoal, minimises pores while detoxifying skin and removing impurities. Trade: £3.45 for 15g 01273 323232 beautypro.com
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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LAUNCHING OUR INAUGURAL INNOVATIVE BEAUTY CONFERENCE THIS SEPTEMBER
SPEAKERS INCLUDE (clockwise from top left) Alison Young, Growth and Development; Liz McKeon, Business; Candice Gardner, Product Evolution; Marc Innes, Treating clients affected by cancer; Hazel Menon, Waxing and Training; Elizabeth Raymond Brown, Advanced Aesthetics; Karen Betts, Innovation
BABTAC ARE BRINGING AN INSPIRATIONAL AND EDUCATIONAL DAY TO EVERYONE IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY. HELD AT THE CASTLE HOTEL, WINDSOR ON THE 15TH SEPTEMBER, GO ONLINE TO FIND OUT MORE OR CALL US ON 01452 623116 Don’t miss out on this opportunity to invest in you and your business, book your ticket today at www.babtac.com/tickets or call 01452 623 112. Tickets start from £70 ex VAT. THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS
01289 BABTAC Advert.indd 1
04/02/2019 15:42
New Products
144 Spotlight
Sienna X
Pro tanning brand Sienna X is extending its retail range with three trend-led products in clear, clean and modern packaging; Gradual Sleep Tanning Drops, Skin Finish Illuminating Mist, and Eraser Self Tan Remover. “Instagram is key to sales in this digital age, even when it comes to the way people are buying. More and more, social media sites are driving product purchases,” says Nicky Matthews, Sienna X chief executive. “We wanted to make sure our new products looked great on those channels and could inspire and give confidence to the next generation of tanners that are coming through.” The first new product being introduced to the range is the Sleep Tanning Drops. “We originally went with the idea of a facial tanner but we soon realised, after conducting market research, that people want to continue using their favourite products with the added benefit of maintaining their facial tan,” says Matthews. “We formulated the tanning drops without a fragrance so that consumers could add it to their favourite night creams.” The drops contain organic coconut and avocado oils, which moisturise the skin and boost collagen production, plus marine bamboo, which fights against pollution as well as damage caused by blue light. The second product is the Illuminating Mist, which is
formulated with a bronze light-reflective pigment for a glowing finish for the face and body. It contains antioxidants and green tea extract to add moisture to the skin. Lastly, there is a product that has been missing from the Sienna X range up until this point, the Tan Remover. After experiencing a high demand from consumers and therapists, the brand has formulated an exfoliating remover that comes with a mitt. It removes tan that has been applied within an hour and can also be used on older patchy tan, ready for a fresh application. Trade: £10 for the drops; £8.75 for the mist, £10 for the Self Tan Remover 0333 600 1200 sienna-x.co.uk
Orly As well as SS19 collection Radical Optimism (see page 82). Orly is also launching a collection of metallics this month. Breathable Shimmers is inspired by crystals, with six shades. Freudian Flip is a metallic emerald; You’re a Gem blends lilac and gold; Comet Relief is a metallic gold; Moonchild a white-gold shimmer; Elixir is a metallic silver; and Mind over Matter a jet black. Trade £7.13 each 01827 280 080 (Grafton International) graftons.co.uk
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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You’re committed to being the best in your field. So are we. Clinical Training
Cynosure’s dedicated clinical team offer outstanding customer training as exemplified by the following stats. 98%
98% of customers felt ‘very confident’ after training
94%
93%
93% of customers said our clinical trainers' knowledge was ‘Excellent’ or ‘Very Good’.
94% of customers said that our practical training was ‘Excellent’ or ‘Very Good’.
Percentage based on 462 customers surveyed.
Service Cynosure’s dedicated team of engineers offer exceptional support to ensure your devices are well maintained and as powerful as ever.
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All contract customers are attended within 2 working days
Weekend support offered
If on a service contract, unlimited clinical training
There’s never been a better time to invest with Cynosure Visit www.cynosureuk.com or call 01628 5222 52. Untitled-6 1
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New Products
146 Just Wax The latest addition to the Just Wax collection is Multiflex Lavender & Aloe Vera. Suitable for insalon and mobile use, this stripless hot wax can be removed in almost any direction for minimal pain. The soothing lavender and aloe vera extracts make it suitable for sensitive skin and intimate waxing. It is also 100% Vegan. Trade: £12.55 020 8573 9907 salonsystem.com
Premier Software Premier Software has relaunched SalonLite, its cloud-based software. SalonLite is a tool that can be used on the move via a web app, to schedule, manage staff and clients, and provide at-a-glance reporting. New tools added for the relaunch include SMS marketing capabilities to help drive revenue and client loyalty. Trade: from £10 a month for SalonLitePro 01543 466580 premiersoftware.co.uk
Moving to Timely has allowed us to scale our business We’re now up to 60 staff in 6 locations, and still growing. Nicky Shore, Off Wax & On Browhouse
Say yes, and we’ll take care of the rest Talk to us on 02038 683790, or visit gettimely.com to get started.
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BECOME A MEMBER OF THE UK’S LEADING MAGAZINE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY, NAIL AND SPA INDUSTRIES
Join us as a PB Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to membership lounges at Professional Beauty Shows 10% discount on Professional Beauty Insurance Plus much, much more
Find us on @pro_beauty pro_beauty01 ProfessionalBeautyUK
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New Products
148 Spongellé Spongellé’s newest scent is Beach Grass, formulated to transport clients from shower to sea shore with the scent of a fresh spring sea breeze. The top notes are spicy, fruity and green with base notes of wood and musk. The buffer cleanses, exfoliates and hydrates skin. Trade: from £5.20 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) spongelle.co.uk
BC Softwear New from BC Softwear is the Supremesoft range, which comprises a jumbo sheet, fitted couch cover, header towels and a matching face cradle. The fabric is made from 55% polyester fleece and 45% cotton that feels soft on the skin. Trade: from £9.50 for the header towel 0845 210 4000 bcsoftwear.co.uk
1 Who’s proto-col?
We are an innovative British brand specialising in collagen supplement technology for 15 years.
2 What is collagen?
Collagen is the primary structural protein found in all human beings. As you age, you lose approximately 1.5% of collagen every year from the early to mid 20s.
3 Why do we need collagen? By the time you are 45, you have lost approximately 30% of your body’s collagen. Loss of collagen affects the skin’s firmness and suppleness.
4 What makes proto-col collagen unique? Proto-col’s professional-grade collagen drinks use formulations that have been proven to repair and restore collagen levels.
5 What are the visible results?
Based on two independent studies involving a total of 177 women aged between 35-65 for 8 weeks: 65% increase in Type I collagen (fibril production). 45% increase in skin hydration. 30% (up to) increase in skin elasticity. 20% reduction in wrinkle volume.
Before and After
Independent clinical studies.
Clients can notice improvements on their skin in as little as 30 days. More pronounced results after 56 days.
E: info@proto-col.com Untitled-5 1 139-148 PBMAR19 New Products.indd 148
Become a stockist. T: 0333 000 7788 W: trade.proto-col.com 05/02/2019 13:01 13/02/2019 11:03
䜀愀椀愀 匀瀀愀
刀甀搀搀椀渀最 倀愀爀欀
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Untitled-12 1
13/02/2019 16:46
149 Adverts.indd 149
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Classified
151
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Career Path
152
How to make it as a...
head therapist Helen Hill is head therapist at The Elan Spa at Mallory Court in Leamington Spa. She outlines the pathway to successfully advance from trainee to nurturing a team
1. Study with enthusiasm
“I was happy at The Welcombe but, two years ago,
“When I was growing up, I was always keen on beauty and
I received a phone call telling me about a new spa
fashion and it was clear to me that I wanted to work in the
that was opening in Leamington Spa – the Elan Spa
industry. So, after leaving school, I went on to the Heart of
at Mallory Court. Someone must have recommended
Worcestershire College to study a BTEC in Beauty Sciences.
me and I was asked to join the team as head
While there, I also completed the Spa Management
therapist. Although I wasn’t looking for a new role,
Foundation Degree. I never thought I’d go to university but
I’d been at The Welcombe for seven years and it was
my tutors pushed me to apply so I then ended up at the
an exciting opportunity, especially as it was a new
University of Worcester studying for a degree in Business
business, so I took the position.”
Management. The course really widened my knowledge of
4. Be a good time manager
the business side of beauty, which has helped immensely.”
2. Gain real workplace experience
“I still work with clients but as well as being a good
“When I was at college, I did the mandatory work experience
to be a head therapist. It’s really important that I’m
week, where we had to go into a salon, but I also did a work
a good leader who is approachable and always there
placement every Friday for at least six months alongside
for the team. I try to be a good role model by pushing
my college course. I would definitely recommend this.
myself continually to do my best and approaching
The workplace is a very different environment to college
everything I do with positivity. To achieve this I have
and the placement helped me prepare for this change, as
to manage my time really well and sometimes put
well as giving me a greater understanding of the theory I
in extra hours.”
was learning at college. Now, I take therapists on for work
5. Enjoy nurturing a team
placements at the spa because I know how beneficial it is.”
therapist myself, there are many other skills needed
3. Seize the day
“I manage 10 lovely people and I really enjoy helping
“I completed my work placement at the Welcombe Spa at the
can be. I see many young therapists starting out who
Welcombe Hotel in Stratford Upon Avon. When my placement
don’t believe in themselves at first (I know I didn’t in
ended, they asked me to stay on as a part-time therapist, and
the beginning) and, for me, one of the best aspects
when I’d finished college and university they offered me a
of my job is taking on apprentices and people on
full-time position. I was there for seven years in total. First as
work placements. It makes such a massive difference
a spa therapist, then a senior therapist, before I was promoted
when people acquire confidence and I get much
to treatments manager, which had similar responsibilities to
satisfaction watching people grow and develop,
a head therapist role.
both personally and as great therapists.” PB
others learn and become the best therapists they
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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