Professional Beauty UK - May 2019 by Professional Beauty UK

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13 News Government pledges support for therapists in aesthetics; Nail treatments and healing therapies see biggest growth in bookings 29 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online

Contents

May

Regulars

Dorothy Perkins

Contents

35 Out & about Behind the scenes at the biggest beauty and spa networking events 41 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 49 Ward’s world Many salon owners see their business as their “baby”, and our kids should teach us as much as we teach them 53 Ask the experts How to avoid over-processing lashes, and tips for building your brand online 99 Staff strategy Consultant David Wright gives the lowdown on age discrimination 101 Nail bites Spotlight on Gellux’s latest innovation; inside PB’s Nail Salon of the Year; and the latest collaboration for Marian Newman 105 Treatment news Nail Harmony enters the lash industry with Lash Extend 109 New products Gelish unveils its Elton Johninspired collection, Caudalie makes its sun care debut and we take a look at Image Skincare’s new masks

Features

On the cover

63 Talking to… Paola Leone The wellness manager gives us the lowdown on opening Taj Hotels’ first European Jiva Spa, here in the UK, and explains why she is confident that Brexit won’t impact the business’s profits

70 A different approach We quiz the pros on how to adapt your spray-tan service for elderly clients and those with reduced mobility, and when you should proceed with caution

77 The waxers’ confessional The industry’s elite share with us their most challenging or embarrassing waxing moments and explain how to avoid the same thing happening to you, plus we share some troubleshooting tips to reveal how to master the perfect intimate wax 120 How to make it as a facialist Anastasia Achilleos on what it takes to achieve success as a facialist and the steps you can take to make a name for yourself in this competitive market, from making the right connections to focusing more on your clients

85 Reach for the stars With one in four Brits making purchases influenced by A-listers, we investigate how carrying a brand with celebrity endorsement can benefit salons and clinics 92 When brows go bad It’s the age-old question – should you correct another technician’s bad brow work? Semi-permanent make-up expert Karen Betts reveals when to turn away correction work, when to take on a correction and which pigment colours should be avoided

Cover: Salon System Gellux

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Editor’s Comment

In an industry that’s long been accused of taking a narrow view of what constitutes beauty, it’s exciting to see more professional brands taking a stand and reaching out to traditionally marginalised groups. From products created to meet the specific needs of older or less able consumers, to marketing campaigns that ditch the retouching and embrace all skin types and body shapes, there is a wealth of promising initiatives in the news (from page 13) this month. When it comes to making all clients feel equally welcome in salons and spas, however, we all know that actions speak louder than words. Our feature on adapting your spray tans to suit customers with different needs explores changes in the techniques, and sometimes the language you might use, when treating older, pregnant or disabled clients. Check it out on page 70. This month, we’re also championing inclusivity for those working within the industry. In his advice piece on the laws around age discrimination in salons on page 99, David Wright busts some myths about the limitations of older therapists. Meanwhile, our news story on page 13 outlines changes afoot for therapists working in the field of aesthetics, from the approval of new National Occupational Standards for treatments such as microneedling and peels to fresh conversations that indicate Government support for vocational training routes that would enable therapists to reach Levels 6 and 7. Regardless of your thoughts on who should be allowed to perform which treatments, conversations like these are vital, to ensure beauty therapists maintain a voice in this ongoing debate.

Editor

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Publisher: Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4799 Design and production: ICD, imagecreativedesign.co.uk Printing: Walstead, walstead-uk.com The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

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13 News

News Government pledges support for therapists in aesthetics The Government has pledged to work with beauty industry representatives to move towards the development of accredited pathways for therapists working in aesthetics. The first National Occupational Standards (NOS) for aesthetic treatments at Levels 4 and 5 have now been approved, marking a step forward in creating recognised

qualifications for beauty therapists working in the field. Habia and SkillsActive worked with industry experts and regulators nationwide to develop a suite of NOSs for Aesthetic Treatments, reviewing the standards for radiofrequency, laser and light, superficial skin peeling, microneedling, electrocautery, and micropigmentation and advanced micropigmentation.

Separately, Caroline Larissey, director of quality and standards at the National Beauty Federation (NBF), met with representatives from the Department of Health and Social Care to gain support for the development of pathways of accredited qualifications to demonstrate competence. Larissey, who is also a trustee of the Joint Council of Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) and chair of Beauty Aesthetic Special Interest Committee (BASIC), put forward the difficulties faced by the beauty industry, including barriers put in place by the JCCP to a vocational route for injectables and fillers. The Government representatives expressed an interest to work with BASIC and the beauty sector, with the ultimate aim of developing and implementing a system of self-regulation, licensing and accreditation. Habia intends to develop additional National Occupational Standards for Beauty Aesthetics to Levels 6 and 7 in the future.

Moisturising twice a day could prevent age-related chronic diseases Regularly moisturising your skin could prevent the onset of age-related chronic diseases, according to a new study by researchers at the University of California San Francisco (UCSF). Looking at the role of skin in chronic conditions including heart disease, diabetes and Alzheimerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, the team investigated whether decreasing inflammation by treating skin dysfunction (keeping it moisturised) could reverse the risk of developing these diseases. This study was triggered by other scientific research which found that the forming of small cracks in the skin that signal the release of cytokines into the blood supply had

been shown to lead to systematic inflammation and disease. While cytokines effectively help to repair cracks in younger skin, in older skin the body continually releases the inflammatory messengers because the skin is harder to heal. Once in the blood, cytokines can travel around the body and cause inflammation. 33 participants aged 58â&#x20AC;&#x201C;95 had their cytokine levels measured at the start of the study, then again after 30 days. During this time, participants applied moisturiser to their bodies twice a day which included three types of lipids: cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. At the end, participantsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cytokine

levels had been reduced in the blood and were also lower than in other adults in the same age bracket. However, the team acknowledged that owing to the small sample, more research will need to be undertaken before reliable conclusions can be reached.

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News

inbrief

// A sauna on the beach has been launched by entrepreneurs Liz Watson and Katie Bracher in Brighton. The seven-person Beach Box Spa has been converted from a horse trailer. The duo are currently building a second, larger sauna to hold 15. // The National Beauty Federation (NBF) is warning beauty salons that they are at a high risk of being targeted by scammers, especially with four in 10 of its members unaware of invoice fraud – where criminals pretend to be your regular supplier and persuade you to update your bank account details. // A new conference for beauty professionals will take place in London this summer. The Salon Life Beauty Convention 2019, at the ILEC Conference Centre on July 8, comes from the team behind Spa Life and will feature management education and networking opportunities. // The global medical spa market is forecast to reach $27.5 million (£21m) by 2025, growing 12.2% per year, according to the Medical Spa Market by Service report. Demand for results-driven treatments that are medically supervised is said to be behind the growth. // A new gin-inspired spa break has launched at Donnington Valley Hotel and Spa, Berkshire. The Spring into Gin package aims to showcase the health benefits of antioxidant-rich junipers, which can improve circulation and digestion, and includes a 55-minute botanical treatment and gin-themed afternoon tea.

Nail treatments and healing therapies see biggest growth in bookings Nail treatments saw the biggest growth in bookings of any beauty service last year, while yoga came in as the most-booked fitness class. Treatments booking app Mindbody analysed its internal data of around 800 million bookings and found that the top 10 service bookings (based on the highest percentage of growth between 2017 and 2018) were: 1. Nails (up 2,457%) 2. Make-up, lashes and brows (up 1,538%) 3. Hair removal (+664%) 4. Tattoo/piercing (+556%) 5. Rock climbing (+396%) 6. Cryotherapy (+162%) 7. Coaching/healing (+155%) 8. Face treatments (+146%) 9. Physical therapy (+113%) 10. Water therapy (+107%) Charlotte Newton, senior manager of EMEA marketing at Mindbody, said: “We’re clearly a nation that enjoys looking after our appearance [but] water therapy, cryotherapy, and coaching/healing are also having a moment. We’re seeing a trend in consumers seeking something more unique from the wellness market that

goes beyond traditional services, highlighting the importance of establishing your USP in an everchanging, evolving market.” Meanwhile, the top 10 fitness or wellbeing class bookings of 2018 (based on percentage of bookings in total) were: 1. Yoga (25%) 2. Barre (6%) 3. Pilates (6%) 4. Cycling (4%) 5. Bootcamp (3%) 6. Circuit training (3%) 7. Dance (2%) 8. Interval training (2%) 9. Gym classes (2%) 10. Weight training (1%)

Beauty therapists in the North taught how to spot the signs of domestic abuse Two new training schemes that teach beauty therapists how to spot the signs of domestic abuse on clients have launched in the North of England. Cut It Out Rochdale is a councilfunded two-hour workshop that’s teaching beauty pros how to identify the signs and the correct way to refer clients for help. “With proper training, salon professionals can become invaluable in reducing the impact of domestic abuse and ensuring victims know someone is listening,” said Jaria Hussain-lala, early help domestic abuse officer at Rochdale Council. On completion, therapists are given a badge to act as a visual aid to open up the conversation with clients. Book

your training: rochdale.gov.uk/cutitout Meanwhile, a free RealTalk workshop that aims to empower beauty therapists to help victims of domestic violence and abuse is also being held in Ilkley, West Yorkshire, on May 21, run by BACP registered counsellor Jane Thoy. You will need to register for a ticket by emailing realtalktherapy@outlook.com

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News

inbrief

// A free glass recycling service has launched to help beauty businesses that are struggling to meet their sustainability targets due to administrative and financial burdens. The scheme is run by FreeCollections. Apply at freecollections.co.uk // A holiday and restaurant site in Denbighshire is opening a spa this summer. White Spa will include an indoor pool, sauna, steam room, outdoor hydrotherapy pool, treatment rooms and gym, and create six new jobs. The owners of White House restaurant and Rhuallt Country Park touring site are investing £750,000 into it. // Lycopene when taken orally can protect skin from UV damage, according to new research. Wellness company Lycored’s study showed that supplementation of a carotenoid-rich tomato nutrient complex for 12 weeks caused UV-exposed skin to appear calmer on both molecular and physiological levels. // Lily’s Beauty Salon in Whitchurch is hosting an event on June 30 to celebrate the business’s fifth birthday. Owner Gemma Holt is inviting customers to the salon for afternoon tea and demonstrations of Comfort Zone’s new treatment Beauty Reloaded – the salon will be one of the first in the UK to offer it. // Moddershall Oaks Country Spa Retreat has added a rasul treatment room to its indoor facilities, providing guests with a more immersive and private wellness experience. The multisensory facility features heated seats, warm rain, coloured lighting and self-applied organic mud.

Pro brands launch “real” beauty campaigns as part of body-positivity movement Professional brands are backing the movement to promote body-positivity in the beauty industry. Day spa chain Spa Experience by Better has launched a “Keep it Real” campaign (below), promoting its facilities using real spa clients in London between the ages of 18 and 54. The aim of the shoot was to celebrate every body type and show a group that reflects the people who use Spa Experience on a daily basis. “We want to promote mental as well as

physical health and wellness, and the anxieties around body image are well documented,” said Melissa Evans, Spa Experience’s national spa and fitness class manager. “The decision to stop using professional models and to use our clients to showcase our facilities was an obvious one.” Meanwhile, beauty brand HD Brows has also taken a stance against body-shaming with its new “Love Yourself. More” campaign (above), which features unedited photos of models to help spread self-love. The shoot shows six people, including the brand’s lead brow stylist Jamie Long, styled with different make-up looks to “represent beauty in every form”, and none of the images have been retouched.

Neck and shoulder massage best for stress relief, shows research A neck and shoulder massage is the most stress-reducing spa treatment, according to new research. An interactive study by BuyaGift examined the stress levels of mum bloggers to reveal the most relaxing spa treatments for busy mums. The study analysed mums’ stress levels by measuring heart rate variability – the variation between consecutive heart beat intervals. A reading was taken during the most stressful moment of each blogger’s day and after their spa

treatment, comparing the readings to see which treatment most improved stress rates. The 10 most relaxing treatments were: 1. Neck and shoulder massage 2. Wash, cut and blow dry 3. Deep-tissue massage 4. Steam and sauna 5. Swedish full-body massage 6. Pedicure 7. Facial 8. Hot stone massage 9. Indian head massage 10. Manicure

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inbrief

// The power of social media shows no signs of slowing down, with 81% of consumers admitting they have made a purchase following a link shared by an influencer, according to The 2019 Influencer Marketing Global Survey. // Sweet Squared (S2) has become the official UK distributor for Sachajuan Professional Haircare, a premium Scandinavian hair brand. The products are available to purchase from the S2 website. // Machines brand CACI has received more acclaim for its results-driven facial. The company’s Synergy Advanced Non-Surgical Facial Toning Treatment, which combines electrical microcurrents with LED light therapy, was named as the best procedure for electrical skin tightening by beauty journalist Alice Hart-Davis in the Daily Mail. // More than three quarters of Brits (85%) still love shopping on the high street, preferring to physically buy products if they can, according to research by digital marketing agency Marketing Signals. However, nine in 10 UK shoppers will research a product online before going in store to purchase to make sure they’re getting the best deal. // The Alchemist Spa in North Devon’s Woolacombe Bay Hotel has opened a rasul to broaden its offering. The team brought in consultancy Spa Vision to work on the project, helping to deliver an ancient Arabic bathing ritual which uses mineral-rich mud along with heat and steam.

A third of UK women feel judged for tanning One in three UK women are being shamed for fake tanning, according to new statistics from tanning brand St Tropez. More than half a million UK women have experienced negative comments online for wearing fake tan, with 60% saying insults and judging looks have knocked their confidence, the report found. However, 42% of the women surveyed said they won’t stop tanning because it makes them “look well” and “feel confident”. The UK’s tanning habits were also revealed. Those living in Liverpool and the North West are the keenest tanners, with 55% and 48% of women

respectively sporting a golden glow, while 73% of women in the South East admit that they never book themselves in for a tan. Plus, more than half (55%) of women in Yorkshire get a spray tan before going on holiday, compared to only a third (35%) of those in London.

Make-up brands become more inclusive with “accessible” products

Two make-up brands are backing the movement to make beauty accessible to everyone with innovative new products. Look Fabulous Forever (LFF) is a collection of “pro-age” make-up and skincare products developed specifically for mature women by founder Tricia Cusden after she became “disillusioned with cosmetic brands who only wanted to sell her anti-ageing items”. The brand launched in 2013 but is now coming to the professional market, seeking beauty salons and MUAs to become LFF ambassadors. Meanwhile, disability-friendly brand Grace Beauty has developed a range of mascaras with different handles for those with mobility issues. Launching later this year, the Ring Grip is a handle with a ring attached to it, “giving a more secure hold, which makes it nearly impossible to drop,” said the brand. The Square Grip has a hexagonal shape to allow for easier opening, hold

and control, while the larger bulbous shape of the Safe Grip gives better control when using it at an angle.

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News

Lemoga – yoga with lemurs – is the latest trend at The Spa at Armathwaite Hall in Keswick. Classes are held at the hotel’s adjoining Lake District Wild Life Park, aiming to “heighten the sense of wellbeing for both lemur and human”.

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Elemis names Oriele Frank UK MD, following L’Occitane deal Former Elemis chief marketing officer Oriele Frank has been promoted to UK managing director as part of a reshuffle. The British skincare brand has restructured its management team following its acquisition by the L’Occitane Group in January. Frank will oversee the business in the UK market, focusing on growth, while Noella Gabriel remains president of the company but will be based in its New York headquarters, continuing to drive the brand’s expansion in the US. Meanwhile, chief executive Sean Harrington is relocating to Asia to open Elemis’s first Hong Kong office, with the aim to build the brand’s presence across the Asia Pacific market. “This next period will strengthen the continued growth and momentum behind our timeless brand,” said Harrington. “Together as a team, brand and family, we have an incredible opportunity for success and we are more ready for it than ever.”

Australian Bodycare and Phytomer distributor sold in MBO Ken Lamacraft Marketing (KLM), distributor of beauty brands including Australian Bodycare and Phytomer, has undergone a management buyout by Australian Bodycare UK operations manager Fiona Peerless, and financial accountant Kevin Gambrill. KLM distributes waxing and tea tree skincare brand Australian Bodycare in the UK, along with eyebrow make-up brand Billion Dollar Brows and French marine-inspired skincare brand Phytomer. Both KLM and Australian Bodycare UK were formally owned by Ken and Maggie Lamacraft, who will stay on to support the new management team during the sale transition period. Fiona Peerless has worked with Australian Bodycare UK for almost 20 years, having held positions in marketing, logistics and, most recently, as operations manager. Peerless commented: “Australian Bodycare has a solid foundation within the beauty industry which we will build on. Kevin and I believe there are significant opportunities for continued growth and expansion driven by investments in people, infrastructure and marketing.”

// May 6–7 World Spa & Wellness Asia Le Méridien Phuket Beach Resort, Thailand Asia edition of the World Spa & Wellness conference with networking and brand showcase. 020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com/asia // May 17–19 IMATS Olympia, London Make-up show for trade with classes and exhibitors. +1 360 882 3488 imats.net // May 19–20 Beauty UK NEC, Birmingham Trade event for beauty with awards and forums. 01332 227680 beautyukshow.com // May 23 Forum Hotel & Spa The Four Seasons, Paris Conference with delegates from spa and hospitality. +33 (0)1 4240 9077 forumhotspa.com // May 26 Superyacht Lash Conference Sunborn Super Yacht Hotel, London UK Lash Institute event for techs with speakers. 07860 680116 lashevents.co.uk/superyacht // June 5–8 Spatec Europe Grand Hotel Dino in Baveno, Italy Event for spa pros with speed-dating style meetings. +356 2134 6454 spateceu.com

// July 8 Salon Life Beauty Convention 2019 ILEC Conference Centre, London New management conference for senior beauty professionals, including networking opportunities. 01268 745892 salon-life.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Digital

professional

The Beauty Academy (@thebeautyacademyuk): Huge congratulations to Betsy-Dora Turner on winning Make-up Specialist of the Year in the Professional Beauty Awards 2019!

Hot topic Katie Godfrey (@kgsalon): Another publication hit this week in @pro_beauty01.

Who is responsible for the drop in students coming into the beauty industry? Clare Rogers, owner of The Treatment Rooms in Brighton, commented: “I was at a careers talk this week. It was good to see two male students, but 50% of those finishing this June were going to work from home. One believed she would earn £1 a minute in her first job. This is the first year I’ve not had a junior working with us while they’re at college.” Allison Day, director of My Beauty Room, commented: “A great read. I’m celebrating 30 years as a beauty/holistic therapist this year and am very, very sad at the lack of encouragement for students to enter this professional sector, which offers so much.”

THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Have you ever had to deal with an abusive or aggressive client in your spa/salon?

Hot topic

London-based apothecary Yuuka House bans single-use sheet masks Adryanne Johnson, business operations consultant, commented: “As a recent convert and mum of three boys, sheet masks are the highlight of my Sundays!” Tracey Berry, aesthetic nurse prescriber, commented: “I love that sheet masks are sterile for use after procedures such as microneedling. How else can we offer clients a sterile mask?”

61% YES

39% NO

Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @georgeseago @katsjonouchi

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Social Surgery

Social media MARKETING Not sure how to market yourself online? PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin shows you how to identify the right audience and social platforms for your business

Social media can be overwhelming, especially when

2. Get your timing right

it comes to marketing your business. With so many

One of the most frequently asked questions when

options, it’s often easy to invest a lot of time without

planning social media content is “when should I be

reward. And with more companies going online for

posting?” Unfortunately, there isn’t a universal answer

their marketing, competition can be fierce.

to this. The team at scheduling tool Buffer analysed five

But by planning your social media and understanding the platforms you’re using, you can still find solid success. In this first Social Surgery

separate studies on this topic and all five suggested a different time and day. The simplest strategy is to post when the majority

column, we take a look at how to find your ideal

your followers are online. Facebook and Instagram both

audience on social media and build content that

offer up this information. Go to the Insights tab on your

is suited to them.

page and you can see the days and times that your

1. Identify your audience

current followers are most active. Using this data, you

It can be tempting to create accounts across all

can start to plan content to go out at your busiest times. However, make sure not to “flood” your social media

platforms when you’re starting out. But as a rule,

with content at these popular times. Posting multiple

you’re more likely to find success if you focus initially

posts in short succession drives down the “reach” of

on one – you’ll be able to build a core audience,

each post. This means fewer individual people will see

understand them, and take that knowledge forward

that post, even if it’s at your busiest time. Quality in one

to other platforms.

strong post is always better than quantity.

So, which platform is best to start on? Thankfully, making that decision can be much easier than you

3. Create audience-specific content

think. Look at your existing client base and match

There is a certain amount of trial and error when it

them up with the most relevant social media site.

comes to the type of content you should create. Photos

A quick search online will help you find reports that

and videos tend to perform much better than simple

point towards which platform is best for which age

Facebook posts or automated Twitter reviews. But if

group. Some of these reports can be surprising

you want a better idea of what your audience is

– and challenge what you might expect.

interested in, you can once again turn to the social

For example, while Facebook used to rule the roost with millennials, data by SproutSocial suggests it’s

platforms themselves. While all platforms offer standard audience data such

quickly losing ground to Instagram. If they’re your

as gender and age, Twitter Analytics also suggests

target audience, it might be better to get ahead of

other interests relevant to your audience. Use this to

the curve and start on Instagram. On the other hand,

either create your own content similar to these

nearly two thirds of people between the ages of

interests, or share relevant content. You’ll get increased

50-64 are now on Facebook. Don’t assume social

engagement from your current followers, but also can

media is only good for reaching younger clients.

bring new eyes over to your page. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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08/04/2019 18:01

Industry Events

Out About

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

ANP SKIN YOUTH BIOME LAUNCH IIAA HEADQUARTERS, LONDON

PB features editor Georgia Seago was invited to an informative morning delving into the science and development of Advanced Nutrition Programme’s (ANP) Skin Youth Biome supplement. Aided by canine skin health mascot Minnie, the group of journalists and influencers heard from nutritional therapist and ANP brand manager Lorraine Perretta and regulatory and quality affairs manager Paul Naude about the relationship between the gut and the skin, and how the supplement was made and packaged for optimum results.

IMAGE SKINCARE 2019 WORLDWIDE LAUNCH PARTY ONE MARYLEBONE, LONDON Deputy editor Amanda Pauley joined 200 guests at Image Skincare’s glitzy 2019 Worldwide Launch Party in London. The annual event is the launch pad for the brand’s hottest new products and takes place in every country the company is stocked in, on the same night. Guests enjoyed a champagne reception with canapés, before watching presentations from Charlene Stoker, UK head of education, and Jacquelyn Hill, global director of training, on the brand’s four new masks, including a probioticbased one, which you can read about on page 110. >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Industry Events

36 DEFINE CLINIC OPENING PARTY BEACONSFIELD Aesthetic doctors Benji Dhillon, Mark Hughes and Slaine McGrath came together for the opening party of joint venture Define Clinic. The trio welcomed guests including reality TV personalities from Made in Chelsea to the clinic, where treatment demonstrations took place and guests chatted with representatives from suppliers including CoolSculpting, Lumenis and Allergan over drinks. The clinic offers a range of facial aesthetics and cosmetic dentistry treatments.

UK SPA ASSOCIATION NETWORKING EVENT RUDDING PARK, HARROGATE The spa industry came together for a day of talks, conversations and a tour of Rudding Park’s rooftop spa, during the UK Spa Association’s spring networking day. Amanda Winwood, founder of Made for Life Organics, spoke about making wellness accessible to all, and Franki Johnson, director of consultancy Embrace Change, gave a presentation on how to meet the needs of generation Z. The association’s next networking event will take place on September 16 at the new South Lodge Spa in Horsham.

BCA BUSINESS EVENT IIAA HEADQUARTERS, LONDON The PB team was back at IIAA HQ for the Beauty Companies Association (BCA) event, which saw suppliers including Gerrard International, CACI and Louella Belle come together to discuss industry issues and hear from a range of speakers. Tracy Sutton, founder of Root Innovation, spoke about what packaging says about a brand, before IIAA managing director David Alpert addressed sustainability, talking about the changes his company has made to tackle plastic pollution. Kate Shapland, journalist and board member of the British Beauty Council, and Kevin Starr, owner of Hexagon Consulting, spoke about the issues facing beauty companies after Brexit.

ASSOCIATION OF HAIRDRESSERS AND THERAPISTS (AHT) FINALS THE WINTER GARDENS, BLACKPOOL Scotland-based Borders College – one of skincare brand Eve Taylor’s partnership colleges – scooped six awards at the Association of Hairdressers and Therapists (AHT) Finals, held in Blackpool. Students from the college’s hairdressing and fashion make-up department entered six categories and all came away with prizes. Highlights included student Claire Boyle winning first place for the First Year Ladies Commercial Blow Dry. “We try to encourage as many colleges to compete at such events and it’s fantastic to see that this Borders College has developed so much talent from its students,” said Eve Taylor, OBE, founder of the eponymous brand. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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41 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

beauty

intimate service, followed closely by Hollywood (34%), then Brazilian (17%). Check out our top troubleshooting tips for intimate waxing on page 82.

On the spot Which intimate waxing service is most popular in your salon? 1. Bikini 2. Hollywood 3. Brazilian

Dorothy Perkins

With CBD oil beauty products rising in popularity because of the antioxidant properties of the plant-based alternative, it’s no wonder that almost a third (31%) of your clients are asking you about the ingredient, and whether they should incorporate it into their skincare routine. Other skincare trends you’re being asked about include the power of peptides (23%) and probiotics (10%) and the importance of the microbiome (4%). When it comes to your bread-and-butter services, waxing has been doing incredibly well, as more people opt to see a professional for their hair-removal needs. As a result, bikini waxing (35%) is your most popular

March 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?

52% 35% 13% BETTER

corrected % have another therapist’s

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider

041-044 PBAPR19 Insider.indd 41

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

bad work for a client

Which skincare ingredient trend are clients asking about most? 1. CBD oil 2. Peptides 3. Probiotics 4. Microbiome

SAME

50% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?

23% 58% 19% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

09/04/2019 11:22

Business Trends

Insider

spa

On the spot Which intimate waxing service is most popular in your spa? 1. Bikini 2. Hollywood

M&Co

It’s been a good month for the spa industry, with both treatment business and retail sales up on last year’s figures, which could partly be down to clients asking for your expertise on the latest skincare trends, including peptides, probiotics and CBD oil. Being adaptable to clients’ needs is important, which is why a third of you (33%) have now started doing correction work if a customer has had a botched treatment somewhere else. Meanwhile, your intimate waxing bookings have seen real growth too as clients start prepping themselves for holidays and warmer weather, with bikini and Hollywood your most sought -after services. Getting up close and personal with clients’ bits can lead to some awkward situations. We caught up with the industry’s waxing elite and quizzed them about their most embarrassing hair-removal story. Read the funny tales on page 77.

March 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?

3. Brazilian

69% 21% 10 % BETTER

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

have corrected another therapist’s bad work for a client

53% Which skincare ingredient trend are clients asking about most? 1. Peptides 2. Probiotics 3. CBD oil

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?

33% BETTER

66%

WORSE

SAME

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Business Trends

Insider

nails

As nail techs, you know the customer is king, but sometimes their demands can leave you a little lost for words. Among the dreaded phrases you hate to hear from clients, “It’s cheaper at the salon down the street” and “Can you go a bit quicker? I need to be out of here ASAP” came out top, with 28% of the vote each. Other annoying things clients have said to you include: “You don’t mind me eating or playing on my phone, do you?” (25%) and “Can you paint my kids’ nails for free while they wait for me?” With summer fast approaching, a third (33%) of you are predicting that pretty corals will be the hottest nail trend, followed closely by ice-cream inspired pastels (28%), neon brights (19%), barely-there nudes (9%) and colour chromes (5%). For the latest nail news, turn to page 101.

What’s the most annoying thing a client has said to you?

Primark

On the spot 1. It’s cheaper at the salon down the street 2. Can you go a bit quicker? I need to be out of here ASAP 3. You don’t mind me eating or playing on my phone, do you? 4. I’m not sure about that colour now it’s finished

11%

March 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?

54% 37% 9% BETTER

use a bespoke business hashtag when posting “nailfies” on social media

1. Pretty corals 3. Neon brights 4. Barely-there nudes METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from March 29–April 5, regarding business for the month to March 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by spas and salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK

Which nail trend is going to be big for summer? 2. Ice-cream inspired pastels

SAME

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?

26% 60% 14% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

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Ward’s World

WINNING

mentality

When you have your own salon it can feel like your “baby”, but remember that you can learn from it as well as passing your knowledge on, writes HELLEN WARD

’m a great believer in embracing the sometimes very difficult challenges life chucks at us and trying to see past the experience to get to the lesson we’re being taught by it. This all sounds great on paper but is much harder to put into practice, of course. I’ve often said that having your own business is like having a baby that never grows up. You can never stop nurturing, cultivating and motivating it. But a bit like parenthood, the baby itself can teach us many lessons. I recently had this experience with my son. He’s nearly 16 and not academic but has a savviness and tenacity that make me feel he will succeed in life without question. My very academic daughter couldn’t be more different – for all her intellectualism she could never be described as streetwise.

Strive for success

The coach told my son he could travel with the squad to the match which meant a four-hour round trip. Despite this, he made up his mind to go and watch from the dugout. I’ve never been more proud of him.

Positive outlook Staying positive in the face of disappointing setbacks is a key skill I nurture in my salon team, too. It’s an essential skill to master if you’re ever going to achieve success. My son’s team won by the narrowest of margins and reached the final, played at Twickenham. We joked that the only way he’d get back into the squad was if somebody broke their leg – and that’s exactly what happened. My son was back on the bench. Just like I do when I’m facing a business challenge, I told him that if he wanted to play he’d have to use visualisation. And not visualise it with doubts but set his intention and raise his vibration to actually feel the feeling of running out on to the hallowed turf, creating a try and helping to win the match for his college. With a comfortable lead and a few minutes to go, the coach let the subs on to the pitch and that’s exactly what happened. The elation on his face being awarded his medal will stay with me forever. Sometimes our children, our staff or our business can teach us the biggest lessons of all in determination. And how sweet the victory feels when the struggle has been so immense. PB

Sometimes our children, our staff or our business can teach us the biggest lessons of all

My son is very sporty but at college he has had to fight for his place in the rugby A team U15 firsts. His teammates really are outstanding and I have no doubt some of them will go on to play for their country like their coach, Will Greenwood, did. He’s never had to work so hard to get off the bench and spent most of last summer pushing weights, passing and spinning the ball with his teammates, and working out. His college team got to the semi-finals of the Natwest Cup and he was left out of the squad as an injured lad came back to fitness. He was inconsolable. As his mother, for the first time I felt helpless. Will was amazing in building back his confidence; reassuring him that despite being a successful England player, back in college he couldn’t make it past the C team. He also told him he’d rather play with someone as gritty as my son any day.

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for The National Beauty Federation (NBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Ask the Experts

ask

the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

How can I build the online reputation of my brand? The way clients talk about your salon offline doesn’t always reflect what’s being said online. You may be delivering top-quality services and treatments on a consistent basis, but the question is: does this match your online reputation? In this day and age, it is incredibly important to ensure that your digital presence is first-rate, as it is usually the first port-of-call for new clients who might be interested in booking an appointment. Statistics indicate that 88% of people trust online reviews as much as personal referrals. And 9 out of 10 people will still check out a salon online after someone gives them a verbal referral. But how exactly can you manage how people treat, react to and rate your business online? First off, we need to focus on the channels that we know will have a major impact: Google, Yelp and Facebook. These three titans of social activity are your key to cementing a top-notch reputation online. And the quickest way to skyrocket your business up the ranks is by collecting as many five-star reviews as you can. Not only will this make your salon look better to the critical eye, but it is also one of the best ways to gain more visibility and exposure on Google so that if a potential client is looking for a salon in your area, your business has a better chance of appearing first. Now you know reviews are the answer, how can you start collecting exceptional ones? That’s the simple part: focus on your very best clients. Instead of hitting every customer who walks through your door, be laser-focused on those you know love your brand. Then, simply email

them or send them an SMS and ask for a review. Provide the link to your own Google Reviews – you can get this by googling your salon, scrolling down to the review section on the right and clicking “write a review”. Copy the URL at the top of the browser and add this to your message, and that’s it. This is such a crucial area for your business, which is why we’ve developed a new online reputation manager feature at Phorest that lets you manage and automate the process through your software.

Christopher Brennan is executive producer at Phorest Salon Software and has a background in content marketing and lead generation.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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54 Ask the Experts

How do I take the best before-and-after photos to portray treatment results? Taking great before-and-after pictures can bring more objectivity to the work you do. It gives you the opportunity to further engage with clients and reassure them that the treatment is working. Taking photos can add 10 minutes to your treatment session, but will be well worth the effort. It’s best to include the client’s consent to be photographed for personal or commercial reasons in your main consent form. To ensure the images look good, find a neutral-coloured, well-lit, wall with at least a yard of unobstructed space on either side of a fixed mechanical stadiometer. A stadiometer is a piece of equipment used for measuring human height. You’ll also need a couple of lightweight chairs, which can be moved, and a smartphone for taking the images. You’ll need both front and side views

How can I best use seasonal window or product displays to boost retail?

taken before, and after, each set of treatments. It’s good to take snaps within the session too. Make sure the client’s back is straight

Having a well-located window or space for retail display is a gift when it

for consistent repeat photo angles. If

comes to presenting your seasonal themes and products. Yet, without

you’re dealing with double chins, for

proper planning, these spaces can easily become dusty corners with

example, it’s best to position the tip of

out-of-date information, which can reflect badly on your brand.

the nose on the edge of the stadiometer

Do distinguish between display and retail spaces, even if it’s just a

while bending the neck mid-way

separate shelf or table top. Displays can be creative and it’s not necessary

between the best and worst positions.

to have every product on show in those areas. Great displays should be

Make a note of the stadiometer height

eye catching, memorable, and change every four to six weeks.

for repeat sessions and always take the

Retail is more about ease of browsing and clarity of information.

photo in line with the stadiometer bar,

Ensure that you have well-stocked and well-laid-out shelves with clear

with no hair or clothes obstructing the

pricing. Your clients should be able to find what they are looking for,

area you’ll be working on.

and good stock levels will help ensure you don’t miss a sale. Talk to your product houses about shelf talkers and take a walk round Space NK as an example of best-practice retail layout. Think carefully about the message you are creating with a display. Promoting a specific botanical ingredient? Include growing plant pots alongside the products. Make sure they look great and don’t let them dry out. Use them when drawing clients’ attention to the ingredient and explaining why it is beneficial to the skin. Stick with one theme at a time to keep your message clear and keep clutter to a minimum. Fragrance, especially if it links to your display, can add even more Liz Holmes is director of consultancy Commercial Spa Strategies and former spa director for properties including Rockliffe Hall. She gives business advice, specialising in spa launches.

appeal, so consider fresh flowers or a scented candle or diffuser. Retail displays are often the first impression a client has of your salon or spa – so make yours

Dr Bala Raju has been managing CQC-registered private clinics for 10 years. His main aesthetics clinic is KenKala in Kensington’s Royal Garden Hotel Health Club.

count.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Stay Connected

Ask the Experts

How can I avoid overprocessing lashes during a lifting treatment? Lashes that have become overprocessed will typically look dry, damaged, visibly unhealthy or even frazzled. Over-processing can also cause over-curling or lashes being fixed into an unruly direction. In recent years, we have seen an influx of products that claim faster processing, with shorter treatment timings and increased salon revenues being the focus, but this is to the detriment of natural lash health. The chemical process of lash lifting is to

As spray tan demand increases ahead of summer, what are the best ways of pushing associated retail products?

change the direction of the natural lash by breaking down the disulphide bonds within the hair and reforming it into a new position. If too high a percentage of the active ingredients employed in

There are so many ways to encourage customers who’ve had a professional

breaking down and reforming these

spray tan to buy into an enticing retail line for prolonged results. Emphasise

bonds is used and left on too long,

to your client the benefits of using at-home products in preparation for their

damage will be caused.

tan and in maintaining their tan by using the suggested aftercare range. This

Once the cuticle of a lash has been

should be done at the point of booking, during the tan, and after treatment.

damaged, it will not return to a smooth,

When you remind clients of their appointment with an email or text, also

healthy finish. It will cause a porous

highlight the key retail items available. After the tan, you can show clients

surface, resulting in weakened hair that

testers and allow them to try the formula as you are educating them on

is open to any products that might

the benefits.

meet the lashes over the coming weeks

Create attractive till point and window displays, as well as in the room

through hair washing, face washing and

where the tanning will take place, so your client can see retail as a natural

make-up removal. This will all make the

extension of their treatment. Another idea is to provide a gift with each

damaged lashes worse. If over-

treatment – sample sizes of products are an ideal way to introduce retail

processing occurs, it can’t be repaired.

offerings to clients. Why not also include a “bounce back” voucher for

Conditioning elixirs and serums will

money off the full-size version.

improve the appearance slightly, and

Be creative. You could host fun events like an interactive “bronzing” workshop with clients where they pay £10, which is redeemable against

help encourage new growth, but you will need to wait out the lash cycle.

product on the day. During the workshop, you can educate Mandy Cook is sales director of Gerrard International and has been with the company since 1993. She is involved in new product development as well as being responsible for a 25-strong sales team.

participants on things such as how to prep for a sunless tan, the best method for streak-free results or the benefits of lotions versus mousse, then link-sell to bronzing

With more than 10 years’ experience in beauty education, Julia Moran is director of the Creative Academy Manchester and the key driver behind the Lashus brand, manufactured by Sweet Squared.

make-up to complement their tan.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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58 Ask the Experts

I’m thinking of running a small beauty business from home. What do I need to consider? Working from home, and setting up your own business, can be so rewarding but there is quite a lot to consider. My top pointers for someone starting out are: 1. Contact your local council. Ask whether you need to pay business rates, have a health and safety check, or get planning permission if you intend to extend. 2. Check your policies. If you rent, check with your landlord that you can operate an at-home business. For homeowners, check with your mortgage and home insurance providers that running a home business does not affect your policies. If you intend to operate from an outbuilding, you can get separate business insurance. 3. Register as self-employed with HRMC gov.uk/set-up-sole-trader 4. Get yourself out there. Nobody else is going to shout about your business so

What is EMS fitness training and how could it fit into my spa business?

you need to. 5. Become laser-focused on who you serve. Though it’s tempting to try to do so, you cannot be everything to

Electrical muscle stimulation (EMS) training is a new fitness solution for spas, medispas and salons looking to offer a 360-wellness service. It involves 20-minute, weekly sessions, where individuals can sculpt their

everybody or your marketing message will just become too wishy-washy. 6. Be clear on your pricing. Calculate

bodies and reduce fat levels without the long, arduous gym sessions usually

how much it costs you to do each

required to see similar results. EMS technology originates from sports

treatment and how much you want to

performance and works by contracting muscles through an electrical

earn. You need to make profit or you will not have a business.

current. Clients wear a specially designed vest and belt that has a sensor for all

Enjoy the journey and don’t be

eight of the major muscle groups. The electrical current encourages

discouraged by any mistakes, you will

muscles to contract harder for longer, so they spend more time under

learn with experience.

tension and work at a higher intensity than normal. The result is a more effective whole-body workout. Each session is delivered by a trainer on a one-to-one or one-to-two basis, providing a personal and bespoke workout, perfect for your regular spa or clinic clientele. EMS is also an extremely effective form of rehabilitation, offering specific muscular stimulation programmes that are designed to help with muscle relaxation and rejuvenation. There is significant research to suggest it can also help improve lower back pain. EMS sessions require very Caroline Richings is health, fitness and spa consultant at EMS specialist Miha Bodytec and has more than 25 years’ experience in the fitness and spa sectors.

little space so spas can make use of underutilised treatment rooms, introducing incremental sales opportunities that can significantly improve overall

Kerry Beavis is a therapist who works from home, and was Professional Beauty Therapist of the Year in 2016. She is the founder of coaching company The Revive Co.

monthly treatment revenue.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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63 Interview

Talking to...

Paola Leone The wellness manager at Jiva Spa tells Amanda Pauley about opening Taj Hotels’ first spa in Europe, recuperating a big investment and why she’s unfazed by Brexit

t won’t be long before Jiva Spa becomes a big name

was due a “very expensive” refurbishment 17

on the London spa scene. The hotel spa, situated at Taj

months ago, Leone and her general manager

51 Buckingham Gate in Westminster, is making its mark

came up with a business plan to redo the old spa

in the city for its ancient Indian approach to wellness,

from scratch so they could bring Jiva to London.

blending Ayurvedic-inspired healing therapies with a

“We were unable to have the Jiva Spa brand

contemporary Mediterranean philosophy to treat mind,

before because we didn’t have the right facilities.

body and soul.

All we had was two treatment rooms and a

Although family-run hotel chain Taj Hotels runs existing

changing room with a very small, old sauna, which

Jiva Spas in luxurious locations such as Abu Dhabi, India,

wasn’t up to standard,” explains Leone. “I knew that

South Africa and the Maldives, this is the group’s first foray

having a beautiful spa would help to increase the

into Europe, and the result of wellness manager Paola

value of the hotel, and I put that message forward.”

Leone’s vision to become London’s number-one community spa destination. “Jiva Spa is known by guests who use Taj Hotels around

Authentic experience After gaining approval from Taj headquarters,

the world but we’re not recognised in the UK and Europe,

Jiva Spa arrived in London in February 2019 with

and I wanted to change this,” says Leone. When the hotel

sparkling new facilities, including a vitality pool, >

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Interview

a cold “emotional shower”, steam room, sauna, relaxation area, fitness centre and three treatment rooms, one of which is a couple’s suite with a bath. The menu’s healing therapies are inspired by the rich and

says Leone. “Our current client split is 60% hotel

ancient wellness heritage of India, ranging from shirodhara

visitors, 20% corporate clients and 20% locals, but

to reflexology, and it’s this USP that Leone believes is setting

I really want to target the latter group. We’re based

the spa apart from its competitors. “Jiva stands for ‘vital inner

near Victoria and it’s a growing, affluent area, so

force’ – it’s the process of purification.

I want the repeat business

When you visit us, we purify you

from locals. I want to create

physically, physiologically and in a

a relationship with them.”

psychological way too,” she says. The five-step spa process starts with vishuddhi (physiological step), an ancient tea made from basil, lime and an untreated sugarcane from India to detoxify; followed by a session in the wet area (physical) to boost circulation and shed the body of dead skin; before being escorted to the treatment room

We have to charge a little bit more and people see it as a special-occasion treat because of this. We’re trying to discourage this view

A loyalty point scheme will launch soon to encourage those living in the area to visit the spa regularly, rewarding them with a free treatment after a certain number of visits. “There are a lot of hotels nearby but they don’t have the same spa facilities we do, I want to

where the client’s aura is cleansed

capitalise on that.” In April,

(psychological). The body is then healed

the spa also launched a weekly

with the power of touch (physical) and

yoga class for locals, which

the treatment is completed with the gifting of a garland

takes place every Wednesday at 7am in the

made from flowers (psychological), “which honours and

relaxation area, tapping into the idea of a

respects the divinity within the client,” explains Leone.

360-degree approach to wellness.

The spa has also partered with British brand Temple Spa

Despite these smart-thinking marketing initiatives,

for more results-driven facial treatments to complement the

the biggest challenge for Leone has been, and still

authentic Indian therapies. “It’s great because it has created

is, pricing. She explains: “The price of a treatment >

a fusion between India, where Taj and Jiva are from, and Britain, where this spa is based, to entice people in,” adds Leone.

Reputation building It’s a very different spa experience and one Leone hopes will build its client return rate to 90% in the next two years. “I’m hoping our service and dedication to authentic wellness will help the spa become really profitable,”

Clockwise from top: Jiva Spa’s vitality pool, couple’s treatment room, single treatment room

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Interview

is consistently the most important factor for clients when choosing a spa, especially if it’s something they are having regularly. At the same time, it’s important for us as

Clockwise from top: Entrance of 51 Buckingham Gate, view over the hotel courtyard, the courtyard gardens

a larger business to recuperate the cost of investment in the lavish spa.”

is different. London is one of the best destinations in the world and people will

Calculating costs

keep travelling to the UK despite Brexit

Jiva’s treatments cost roughly £100

– tourists will keep coming to Taj, and

per hour, which is slightly higher than

hopefully to Jiva. The hotel has many

the average room price for a professional

facets to the business that support one

massage of one pound per minute (£60

another, and that’s key,” she says.

per hour). “We have to charge a little bit

KEY DATES 2006 Leone studies for her diploma in beauty and spa therapy 2008 Joins Arcadia Spa in Naples, Italy, as therapist 2009 Opens her own business, Spa by Paola, in Italy

However, Leone does think the UK’s

more and people see it as a special

departure from the EU could impact the

-occasion treat because of this. We’re

number of beauty therapists coming to

trying to discourage this view, for people

work here, which in turn will affect spa

to see spa for its health benefits so we get

staff retention rates. “Brexit is a factor

returning clients, but it’s hard,” says Leone.

with people because there’s uncertainty

To my surprise, Leone isn’t worried about

and they don’t know what to do. Can they

the impact of Brexit on the business either,

get a permanent residence? It’s a worry

but she’s not being arrogant, merely

and it could prevent people from coming,”

practical about Jiva’s situation. “We’re

she says. “Plus, the situation could push

a hotel spa, not an independent beauty

therapists already here to leave the

salon on the high street, so our situation

country earlier than planned.”

2013 Closes her spa and moves to London 2015 Joins Spa.NK in Notting Hill, before joining Taj’s London hotel as therapist 2017 Works her way up to Taj’s wellness manager 2019 Taj Hotels opens first Jiva Spa in Europe at 51 Buckingham Gate, London

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Spray Tanning

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Spray Tanning

A DIFFERENT

approach Knowing how to perform a tanning service on any and every body is vital in becoming a reputable therapist who clients trust. GEORGIA SEAGO gets some advice

lients come from all walks of life, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to be able to effectively and professionally treat anyone who comes through your salon doors. However, every therapist will, at some point, be presented for the first time with a client who needs a slightly different approach or special care

during treatment. We asked three spray-tanning pros for their advice on navigating these unfamiliar situations. >

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Spray Tanning

72 ELDERLY CLIENTS “Even as an experienced tanning therapist, you may not be used to performing a spray tan on an elderly client with mobility challenges,” says Abbie McCann, Crazy Angel ambassador and owner of mobile beauty business Abbie’s Beauty Company. “I’ve been in the beauty industry for 20 years and I sometimes still need to question if I’ve handled a client in the correct way. The easiest way to approach clients is to think, ‘if this was a family member, how would I want them to be treated?’,” says McCann. As with any appointment, the client experience begins at the point of booking. McCann recommends asking some important questions, including whether the client

every spray tan client a full and detailed consultation, give

has any mobility needs. “Often a friend or family member

the treatment the time it needs and be considerate

will make a booking on behalf of an elderly client, but

towards your client,” says McCann. “Every one of your

even if it’s the client themselves, establishing at this point

clients should feel like a VIP.”

if there’s anything you need to know in preparation sets you off on the best foot,” she says. You can then judge if the treatment is likely to take a little longer – if the client

PREGNANT CLIENTS

is slow with their movements, for example – and book out extra time accordingly. Establishing open communication straight away is vital

While it’s generally safe for women to have a spray tan while pregnant, ensure your client is past their first

with all clients, but for some elderly customers in

trimester (over three months pregnant), as this is where

particular, it’s even more important. “An elderly client

any health concerns can arise. “If a client chooses to tan

might not get out much, and having a spray tan might

while pregnant, check that your insurance policy will

be a major thing outside of their routine. Even just five

cover you for this. You may wish to request a letter from

minutes of asking them about what the tan is for, what

their GP, advising that the treatment is safe to carry out,”

they will be wearing and what you’re going to do will make

says Kissed by Mii tanning expert Shelley Henderson.

the world of difference,” says McCann, adding, “The client needs to have a complete sense of trust in you.”

Gentle guidance

Depending on the client’s pregnancy, you may well need to plan ahead and make adjustments to your usual treatment protocol to ensure she is as comfortable as possible. Ask upon booking if the client would be more

You may need to gently guide the client into position and

comfortable seated during the parts of the treatment

hold their hand if they’re unsteady on their feet. “Never

where she doesn’t need to be standing, like when you’re

make an issue out of what you’re doing; the client should

tanning the arms and face.

feel as though this is how you deal with everyone, not that you’re putting yourself out for them,” says McCann. In terms of getting an even finish on sagging or crêpey

“If she’s heavily pregnant, the client may be feeling light-headed or less steady on her feet, so create enough space in the treatment room to be able to guide her into

skin, she advises asking the client to lift up their breasts,

the booth and into each different position during the tan,”

having carefully explained that you’ll need them to do

advises Henderson, adding that you could offer a manual

this beforehand. Give the client the option, as they may

tanning option instead if this would be more appropriate

only want to tan areas of the body that will be on show.

for the client.

Depending on levels of mobility, she advises holding the

Check that your tanning solution is safe for use during

client’s hand while you ask her to bend her knees quickly

pregnancy. You may also want to look for a brand that is

so you can spray between the creases of the knees. “For

cruelty-free and is largely – if not completely – natural or

the stomach and the back, ask the client to raise their

organic, though bear in mind that this doesn’t guarantee

arms and bend forwards a bit if needs be, to stretch the

any kind of safety.

skin,” she adds. If the client is hard of hearing, McCann says to explain the whole process in detail and make sure they have understood before the machine goes on. “If you need to

Henderson points out that pregnant clients may have a heightened sense of smell so, if possible, offer a solution with a lighter or minimal scent.

keep turning the machine off to guide them, do so, and

Proceed with caution

mimic the actions back at the client to be really clear,”

In consultation, “explain that due to hormonal changes

she adds.

during pregnancy the tan may take to the client’s skin

Bringing a notepad into treatment is always an option

slightly differently, so the colour might not be the same

to further assist clients with speech or hearing issues if

result as she’s had before,” says Henderson. “For this

verbal communication is difficult. “Most importantly, give

reason, it’s probably wise to start with a light shade and >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

070-074 PBMAY19 Tanning.indd 72

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Spray Tanning

74 follow up to ask how the tan developed and if she was happy

not they’re safe to have the treatment. Burton-Ward

with the result or would prefer something a little darker.”

recommends requesting a written referral from the

Attention to detail will ensure the client is as comfortable as

client’s GP if you’re concerned “to avoid any

possible, says Henderson. Kissed by Mii clients wear a soft waffle

unnecessary issues arising on the day”. She adds,

robe both before and after their treatment to keep them warm and

“It’s also important to establish your client’s ability

comfortable. Offer your client a fresh glass of water to drink and

to give consent, both written and verbally. If in

adapt the temperature of the room if she’s feeling too hot or cold,

doubt, always check your insurer’s guidelines on

with a plug-in heater, additional fan or by opening a window.”

providing consent and, where necessary, have a

Be aware that there may be areas of the client’s body that are more sensitive to the touch, like the breasts. “Suggest she wears a dark, strapless bra during treatment or cover the breast area

responsible guardian or carer present to sign on their behalf.” Depending on the client’s level of mobility,

while she is having her spray tan, and avoid tanning the nipple

breaking tan application down into sections (upper

and surrounding area while a client is breast feeding,” says

front body, upper back, lower front body and lower

Henderson. A low-pressure gun can also make for a more

back) and explaining to the client how this will work

comfortable treatment.

can make the process much smoother. “This way,

When it comes to retailing homecare, it’s sensible to patch-test

you ensure a professional finish while being

any home-tanning products, says Henderson, “even if they’ve

considerate of your client’s limitations. Be sure to

used it many times before they were pregnant, just to check for

clearly explain and confirm any areas that will not be

sensitivities.” A tan-prolonging moisturiser that contains

spray tanned beforehand and why.

ingredients to help stimulate collagen and fade stretch marks could also be a good choice.

Doing so will help the client understand the treatment but also respect your professionalism and honesty,” says Burton-Ward. If the client can stand for a short period of time, they could be seated on a

CLIENTS WITH REDUCED MOBILITY

backless stool while you spray the upper body and then stand briefly while you spray the lower body.

When a client with more serious mobility issues requests a spray tan, there’s no reason the treatment can’t be performed with

Spatial awareness

some modifications. The first thing to consider is that wheelchair-

“Your working area may also need to be adapted;

bound clients “will require a more in-depth consultation and

therapists who use a tent should consider using

further assistance throughout their treatment, which will affect

non-slip mats instead of towels on the floor as this

your service time”, according to MoroccanTan education

will help to minimise slip hazards. I’d also

ambassador Helen Burton-Ward.

recommend that you assist the client stepping in

She suggests booking out extra time in your column so neither

and out of the tent (if they can stand), as most tents

you nor the client feels rushed. On booking, check that the client

will have a lip as you step in, which is a potential

will be able to complete any prep instructions. “Wheelchair users

hazard,” advises Burton-Ward.

may be unable to thoroughly exfoliate beforehand, so ask if they

Another option is to offer a menu of partial tan

have a carer or a responsible person who can assist them with

treatments at reduced prices – 50% off the price of

their needs,” says Burton-Ward.

a full-body tan for half body, for example. “For those

Those with reduced mobility may have a more complicated

who would like a full-body service, it’s important

medical history, so extra care is required to decide whether or

that you manage their expectations in as honest and professional a manner as possible,” says Burton-Ward. She also points out that the client may be unable to perform proper aftercare, so that should be a consideration too. Some of these potential difficulties could be avoided by offering a manual tan application instead of a spray. “You could further elevate the service by offering a manual exfoliation too,” suggests Burton-Ward. “Just remember to be especially considerate of any sensations and sensitivities the client may experience and adapt your touch accordingly.” PB

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28/02/2019 11:15

Waxing

waxers’ THE

CONFESSIONAL

Getting up close and personal with clients’ bits day in, day out can lead to some awkward situations. Five brave waxers tell AMANDA PAULEY their most embarrassing hair-removal stories

THE UNEXPECTED VISITOR Embarrassing story: “Erections – they happen. People don’t like talking about it but if you’re a male intimate waxer then you can’t be in this business and never expect to encounter one. It has happened to so many of my clients – lying there, hands clenched, trying to make it go away. It doesn’t mean the client is getting off on the treatment or is on your bed for the wrong reasons. Some people are just incredibly nervous and because they feel anxious sometimes things pop up and say ‘hello’.”

Lesson learned: “Usually an erection will disappear when you take the first strip of wax off, but if not, then it’s best to acknowledge the situation and say, ‘don’t worry about it’, because it puts the client’s mind at rest. “Now, if your client starts apologising, and some do as the last thing they want is to be lying there with an erection, then just reply, ‘It’s fine, I’ve seen it all before. It happens’, and carry on working. This will calm the client, resulting in things disappearing on their own.” >

Andy Rouillard (aka the Wax Daddy), male waxing expert and owner of Axiom Men’s Grooming Salon and The Wax Academy, both in Basingstoke

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Waxing

78 THE BROWN STUFF Embarrassing story: “As a waxer, you’re going to be touching lots of body parts and be exposed to all kinds of secretions. You just have to deal with it and not let it gross you out. Something you can encounter, and it has happened to me before, is a bit of a ‘poo-bum Paula’ on your couch. I always give my clients an intimate wipe to use pre-treatment but there’s the odd time when they haven’t cleaned properly and ended up with the brown stuff there when I’m about to wax their bum crack.” Lesson learned: “How do you handle this situation? Well, I’m afraid you’ve just got to deal with it and wipe it away using cleanser on a cotton pad. “You can also pre-empt this situation by pointing out the individually wrapped wipe on the couch, explaining to the client how to use it to make sure they clean themselves the right way. The wipe is not a suggestion, it’s an instruction.”

Sam Marshall, wax educator and owner of The Beauty Guru in Salford

THE BALD TRUTH Embarrassing story: “Early on in my career, I had a client booked in for an eyebrow wax and, during the consultation, she told me she had stopped taking a particular acne medication two weeks ago. Any kind of medication that treats acne thins the skin, but I

didn’t know masses about it at the time and neither did my client. I thought it would be fine so I waxed her, but I completely skinned both brows and the skin in middle. She was so upset that she burst into tears. I felt so bad. Luckily, I spoke to her a few weeks later and her skin had healed up ok.” Lesson learned: “For me, it was a lack of knowledge, especially about which medications are going to affect waxing treatments. The medication the client had been taking required her to be off it for a minimum of six months before having a waxing treatment. “Always ask the client for more information and don’t be afraid to turn to your colleagues for advice before doing anything.” >

Jenny Hunter, waxing specialist and trainer for intimate waxing brand Waxü

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Waxing

80 THE FLASHER Embarrassing story: “Many years ago, when I was working in salon, I had a client booked in for a basic bikini wax. She was a first-timer, so didn’t really know what was involved in the treatment. After the consultation, I told her to

get changed and left the room, but because I didn’t explain clearly what was expected of her, when I returned she was completely starkers. It was embarrassing for me and the client because she didn’t need to undress quite so much for this basic treatment.” Lesson learned: “Communication is key. Always explain the most basic treatment information because clients don’t know what we know. It was a bit embarrassing to see that rate of undress when it wasn’t needed. “It made me realise that I need to explain exactly how I want the client to be every single time, whether they’re a newbie or a regular.”

Lisa Stone, wax specialist and educator for Salon System, which manufactures Just Wax

THE BALL OF FIRE Embarrassing story: “I once performed an intimate wax on a client who had lots of thick, tough hair around her bum. I was using hot wax for the treatment and when I asked the client to turnover so I could wax her bum crack, I noticed she was getting really warm because the wax wasn’t setting well. “To cool her down, I sprayed oil on the area, placed the wax where it needed to go and then blew on my client’s bum to help the wax set quicker. When I went to pull it off I couldn’t, it was stuck. I was unable to get a proper grip. The wax was just coming away in stringy pieces. What was left was a hot ball of wax that wouldn’t set, covered in oil, on the client’s bum hole. “Luckily, she had a cracking sense of humour, so I told her what was going on. She laughed and that helped calm me down. Then, I got a fan from another room to cool down her bum, removed the excess oil with tissue and then went over the area with a thin piece of wax, and away the ball came.”

Lesson learned: “It just goes to show that after years of waxing you can still get into a bit of a mess sometimes. You just need to breathe, assess the situation and find a solution. “If you’re performing an intimate wax on someone who is really hairy, try not to apply the wax too thick, and do a few smaller strips to prevent this hairy blob of wax situation. Always keep a fan nearby too.” >

Amy Lewis, director of nail and waxing specialist Mooeys, which has salons in Horsham and Farnham

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Waxing

Intimate WAXING 101

Want to obtain the perfect intimate wax for clients? AMANDA PAULEY shares the pros’ tips on mastering hair removal down there…

Have an open dialogue Communication is key, as Fiona Bale, beauty therapist and area sales manager for wax

Invest in decent clippers One of the golden rules is to make sure your client doesn’t trim their hair preappointment as you need at least three

brand Hive, explains: “Pay attention to

weeks’ growth to get a decent finish. Caroline Mears,

your client’s body language. If you sense

educator for Perron Rigot, says this essential

any tension, it could be caused by

trimming should be done by the professional

embarrassment about the position

pre-treatment with a pair of clippers. “There’s

they’re in rather than the treatment itself.

nothing worse than trimmed pubic hair everywhere.

Continuously inform them of what stage

On women, you generally only need to trim the hair

you’re at and look to protect their

on the central mons pubis and outer labia, and on

modesty where possible.”

men around the base of the penis.”

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Waxing

Control stress sweat Embarrassment, discomfort, hormone issues, tight-fitting clothes and hot weather can all make clients sweat more

than usual. “Any form of moisture acts as a barrier to wax and makes it trickier to remove every hair on that first pull of the strip,” says Lucy Jones, wax trainer for Sienna X. Eliminating as much moisture as possible beforehand will give your client a more positive experience. “Talcum powder helps absorb sweat quickly, so keep a

bottle by your station, and invest in a fan to keep the room cool,” she adds.

Be clever with your technique Be mindful about the way in which you remove the wax to make the process as comfortable as possible. “Don’t pick the

end of your peelable wax off the skin. In many cases, the flicking of the end of the wax with your fingernails

Try a specialist wax

is more painful than the actual removal,” says Tracey

You can use most hot waxes for

Smith, director of wax brand Ashmira Botanica.

intimate waxing but some specialist formulas are designed to give a better end result. “Most training schools only

“Instead, daisy chain your wax using the previous strip or dip your spatula into the end of the wax using the waxy end as this lifts it painlessly. If you have a

teach that you can use hot wax twice on an area

good, smooth end to your wax, it should roll away

before you start damaging the skin but if you use

from the skin when you stretch it.”

a gentle wax that can grab hairs as short as 1mm you should be able to use it up to five times,” says Lydia Jordane, founder of Lycon. “You can put it on twice and may not be able to see any hair, but if you put it on again, hair that you couldn’t see will come out and be visible on the wax. I’m not

Keep ingrown hairs at bay Ingrown hairs can happen for a variety of reasons, so it’s important to give proper aftercare advice. “Advise clients to exfoliate daily in between treatments

happy until I see no more hair on the wax because

and to use a product containing active ingredients

that’s how it lasts longer for the client. If the

salicylic acid and glycolic acid to allow the ingrown

therapist doesn’t remove those shortest hairs,

hairs to get out,” says Angela Sanderson, education

the client often thinks they broke the hair off.”

ambassador for wax brand Wax:one. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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SET YOUR STUDENTS UP FOR CAREER SUCCESS What’s on for colleges on Monday 14th October EDUCATION FORUM Discuss with leading employers and specialists how to get students into the industry

Bring 50+ students for a free Education Forum ticket plus a £20 voucher to spend at the show Email colleges@professionalbeauty.co.uk to register a group of students

INSPIRATION & TRAINING Seminars for just £1 per session for lecturers and students DO YOUR STUDENTS HAVE WHAT IT TAKES? Enter the make-up, nail and lash championships EXCLUSIVE LECTURER BENEFITS Free refreshments and drinks reception in the lounges DISCOUNTED COACH HIRE 50% off coach hire, courtesy of

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Celebrity Endorsement

Reach FOR THE stars With celebrities now holding huge sway over UK purchasing habits, is it time to invest in a brand that has A-list endorsement? Fiona Vlemmiks finds out

ocial media has given the public unprecedented access to the lifestyles of the rich and famous. Via posts, we can find out stars’ seemingly genuine opinions on the salons they’re visiting and the products they’re using. Millennials, who are inherently distrustful of corporate advertising campaigns, are particularly likely to view social media posts as more authentic. And when the product endorsement comes from a celeb, it has even greater influence. In fact, one in four British adults say their purchases are directly influenced by celebrities. According to an online study, conducted in February by OnePool for finance company Zopa, Brits are spending more than £6bn annually in a bid to emulate their favourite stars. Instagram was shown to be the most influential channel and 18–24 year olds were found to be the most affected by the famous, with 57% having made celebrity-influenced purchases in the past year. Phoebe Cowley, marketing and events manager at 3D-lipo, which has a celebrity following for its range of non-surgical face and body treatments, explains how stars often contact the brand to offer support. “We have previously worked with well-established PR agencies to secure working relationships with celebrities. Quite often, the celebrity is already having

treatment, so they already know how it feels, and are thrilled with their results. The PR company will work with the celebrity, drawing up a contract that lists an agreed amount of PR activity to ensure the brand can get maximum value and exposure from it for clinics that offer 3D-lipo treatments.

Converting customers “Our aim when doing any form of celebrity PR is to create brand awareness to raise demand for treatment to the consumer, which then links back to the clinic finder on our website, with the specific aim of driving business through the doors of our clinics throughout the country,” says Cowley. Dean Nathanson, managing director of CACI International, agrees that celebrity endorsement has greatly impacted the brand’s marketing, driving consumers directly through the doors of partner salons. “The support from celebrities has immensely helped our marketing campaigns, encouraging loyalty to CACI International that has in turn benefited the revenue throughout salons by driving consumers through the doors to experience treatments,” he explains. Over the next pages, three beauty business owners describe how they have benefitted from celebrity associations to the brands they carry. >

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Celebrity Endorsement

THE COVE SPA GROUP BRAND: 3D-LIPO BRAND CELEBRITY AMBASSADORS: Coleen Rooney,

Amy Childs, Danielle Armstrong, Patsy Kensit, Gemma Collins and Olivia Bowen The Cove Spa group is a thriving chain of beauty clinics, with venues in Hitchin, Chiswick, Finchley and St Albans. Owned by Krupesh and Vikee Patel since 2012, it employs 30 staff and offers a comprehensive range of therapies from injectables to nutritional therapy. The 3D-Ultimate machine, which provides non-surgical fat removal, treatment of cellulite and skin tightening for both face and body, is available at all of Cove’s branches. “We conducted significant research in the area of advanced technological treatments and finalised our partnership with 3D-lipo in December 2017,” explains Vikee Patel. “After launching it in one site and experiencing great results, we purchased the Ultimate machine for all four of our branches.”

Driving footfall The 3D-lipo treatments have received vast media coverage. Coleen Rooney turned to the brand to help her shift post-baby weight, while former TOWIE stars Amy Childs and Danielle Armstrong have championed the brand as a safe alternative to invasive surgery in the Dying To Be Beautiful campaign. Patel says the brand’s ambassadors definitely shaped their decision to work with 3D-lipo. “UK consumer buying behaviour is heavily influenced by celebrity endorsements and social media influencers. 3D-lipo has experienced massive growth, backed by celebrities, so you’re not just buying a machine when you work with them, you’re buying into a recognised brand,” she says. “Customers like brand endorsements, especially when they can clearly see the technology demonstrate real results. It’s a win-win formula in my view.” Following celebrity media coverage, 3D-lipo has a strong “call to action” policy to entice potential clients to find their nearest clinic. “We always guarantee that the brand name and treatment are featured within any celebrity press, and

also a link to our clinic finder, so that clients are directed towards a clinic in their local area to g for treatment,” explains Cowley. 3D-lipo also shares any press exposure on its website and social media and encourages its clinics to share so that they can act on a local level to create demand in their area. “The great thing about social media is that it provides the perfect platform to enable us to quickly get the word out about the latest celeb or press feature, which clinics can then filter out to their own client databases while it’s still current,” says Cowley. Patel is convinced that treatment sales in his business would have been slower without such marketing support. “The brand’s marketing aids and our own before-and-after images have really helped drive treatment sales,” explains Patel, who uses the material across all the Cove Spa’s own marketing platforms. “We've only been with 3D-lipo for a year, across all of our sites, and the machines have been paid off nearly two times over.” >

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Celebrity Endorsement

SEDUIRE LONDON BRAND: CACI BRAND CELEBRITY AMBASSADORS: Jennifer Lopez, Jennifer Aniston, Kim Kardashian, Aisling Bea, Laura Whitmore, Linda Evangelista, Sadie Frost and Rochelle Humes

The Seduire London clinic is a family-run medispa in its fifth year of operation. It has three treatment rooms and six staff members. The clinic has been offering a full range of CACI facial treatments since its inception. CACI’s non-surgical facelift and rejuvenation treatments have been advocated by A-list celebrities across the globe. So much so that the brand says singer Jennifer Lopez has even purchased her own machine. Seduire owner Pamela Kennedy says she came across CACI when searching for an alternative to injectables or other invasive anti-ageing treatments. “Before we opened, I hadn’t heard too much about CACI but I knew I wanted to go down the road of non-invasive treatments for people who didn’t want injectables, so I started researching brands. Once I started Googling, I saw endorsements by J-Lo and Michelle Collins. There were so many iconic stars representing the brand, which compelled me to look further into CACI,” she says. “Then I found out what the machine could do and how many treatments you can perform with it and I fell in love with it.” Kennedy says that the majority of her CACI clients

were attracted by the coverage of the brand in the media. “People come in to us and ask about CACI because they’ve seen that Michelle Collins has used it,” she says. “When the stars say they have treatments, the public feel that they can attain the same look because the treatment is affordable and not out of their reach. It instills trust. They also know stars wouldn’t risk their reputation by advocating something that doesn’t work.”

Accessible results Nathanson says CACI has never paid for any celebrity or influencer endorsements. “Due to the uniqueness of our microcurrent treatment, CACI connects with celebrities who receive treatments organically and they provide images and quotes for us and to publications.” The brand has a portal, so accounts can log in and access marketing media to upload to various platforms. Kennedy use CACI’s marketing collateral across all Seduire’s social media platforms. A CACI profile book is also available in Seduire’s reception, which features news snippets of celebrity coverage. “It’s a good way to explain the treatment, without getting too technical,” says Kennedy. “Celebs are on telly every day and customers can see they can achieve these looks.” >

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LASHES THAT SPEAK VOLUME

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Celebrity Endorsement

THE BEAUTY CENTRE, ESSEX BRAND: LASER LIPO BRAND CELEBRITY AMBASSADORS: Lisa Snowdon,

Cara de la Hoyde, Nathan Massey, Gail Porter and Samantha Fox The Beauty Centre has been established as a medispa in Braintree, Essex, for 20 years. It has seven treatment rooms offering an array of beauty and aesthetics therapies. Pauline Hume, senior aesthetic practitioner at The Beauty Centre, purchased Strawberry Lift after experiencing a successful demo, and within just six weeks of receiving delivery of their first machine, decided to order a second unit. “Strawberry Lift’s Silent Ultrasound has rapidly taken over HIFU treatment for the lower face and being pain free, unlike HIFU, encourages more people to try the treatment,” she says. “It takes just 30 minutes and both our machines are usually booked out, especially between 12pm and 2pm, as this is now being called the new ‘lunchtime lift’ among our clients.”

Mass appeal Hume says that the celebrity endorsement helped bring the treatment to her attention, and the same applies for the public. “We have a huge number of people coming to us specifically for a Strawberry Lift after seeing the celebrity ambassadors talk about the treatment and reading about it in the press,” she adds. In addition to Strawberry Lift’s national PR campaign, the brand supplies accounts with leaflets and banners. “I do think celebrities make the public take notice of an ad – even if it’s just out of curiosity,” says Hume. “What we’ve found really useful is the wide range of celebrities who endorse the product. This helps us promote it to various demographics, male and female.” Laser Lipo director Sharon Cobley explains the brand’s choice to work with an assortment of celebrities. “Our fantastic PR agency Alex Silver PR specifically chooses celebrities that we know will respond to the treatment so that they are a genuine fit. When strong results are shown, clients can visibly see the benefit of our technology.” She says results tend to be particularly good for men so the brand was keen to have at least one male ambassador to show off a chiselled jawline. Love Island star Nathan Massey was on a

mission to get fitter, which he’d posted about on social media, but was struggling with his double chin. “With many people following his journey, Nathan is great at showcasing how to reduce fat around that area without surgery or needles,” says Cobley. Meanwhile, Lisa Snowdon, Gail Porter and Samantha Fox all target more mature women who want Strawberry Lift to help with signs of ageing. Hulme says this type of marketing has given her clients trust and confidence to try the treatment. “Having the machine endorsed by well-known celebrities and having their before-and-after pictures posted in the media means that people are confident in the treatment and the results it gives.” PB

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Promotional Feature

FULL

Coverage It’s not the most glamorous of topics, but insurance for your beauty salon is vital to protect your business and your clients. The NBF explains why

“

he law says that if you employ at least one person, you must have employers’ liability insurance,” says NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “You can be fined £2,500 for each day you don’t have this insurance, and £1,000 if you do not display your employers’ liability certificate.” Find out more about employers’ liability insurance at nhf.info/employers-liability

Protect your clients “Although not required by law, public liability insurance is vital protection for your beauty salon,” says Hall. “It will protect your business against claims that could run into many thousands of pounds. “This insurance will cover you if a member of the public is injured or has their property damaged at your salon or as a result of your business activities. ‘Injury’ includes both physical harm and emotional distress and your public liability insurance will cover the legal costs of defending a claim and any compensation you may be ordered to pay.” Find out more at nhf.info/public-liability You and your employees must have the required training and qualifications for the types of treatment you want to offer in your salon. “Your insurance policy will not cover treatments the therapist is not qualified to carry out,” warns Hall. “Our detailed fact sheet will help you check if you and your employees have the right level of qualifications and experience for the treatments they offer.” Download the fact sheet at nhf.info/age&qualsfactsheet

Cover all bases “You will also need to consider other types of business insurance,” advises Hall. “For example, buildings and contents, equipment breakdown, protection against loss of cash in transit, and business disruption.” See nhf.info/ business-disruption for more info. NBF members benefit from discounted rates on specialist insurance from Coversure for beauty salons and beauty therapists. Find out more at nhf.info/insurance-beauty.

Coversure’s standard Salonsure insurance policies come with a 20% discount for NBF members and include employers’ liability, public and product liability, and treatment insurance for fully qualified therapists up to Level 3. If you offer beauty treatments requiring qualifications above Level 3, you will need additional insurance. Coversure also offers insurance for a range of advanced beauty treatments at nhf.info/insurance-advanced

Guard against claims “Your priority will be to keep your employees and clients safe as well as protecting your business against potentially expensive claims,” says Hall. “Our beauty health and safety toolkit includes everything you need to stay safe and legal in your salon, including an in-depth guide, risk assessment templates, health and safety poster, health and safety policy, and first aid kit.” NBF members can buy it at the discounted price of £80 (full price to non-members is £115). Find out more at nhf. info/beautyH&Skit For less than 75p a day, the National Beauty Federation (NBF) will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us. The NBF is the sister trade association of the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF). Find out more at nhf.info/nbf Join the NBF before the end of May 2019 and quote PBM25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965

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Brows

brows go BAD

When

We quiz permanent make-up expert and founder of KB Pro KAREN BETTS about how to correct another technicianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work and when you should steer clear

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Brows

Why are we seeing so many examples of bad permanent brows lately?

work. Don’t get yourself tangled up

“The main reason is because of

in difficulties in terms of who’s

inadequate training. The very short

responsible for which bit of work on

have been made too close together,

courses are just not sufficient. It’s

that client – let that other artist do

it can be difficult to correct. You

important to ensure students are

their second procedure and give

have to be realistic with the client

confident performing the

them the opportunity to tweak the

and explain that you can add more

treatments as well as delivering

shape or colour and hopefully

strokes and length but you can’t

excellent results; and after a couple

deliver what the client wanted in

make drastic changes as you’re

of days you may gain a certificate

the first place.”

confined to covering someone

but you’ve got no confidence. A lot

else’s work instead of creating a

of people are also doing online

complete bespoke brow.”

training via tutorials. “Properly qualified and experienced semi-permanent make-up artists (SPMUs) should be encouraging clients to ask technicians about their work and where they’ve trained. That due diligence can eliminate a lot of bad brows.”

Don’t get yourself tangled up in difficulties in terms of who’s responsible for which bit of work on the client

When should SPMUs turn away correction work? “If you decide to correct someone

Which colours should be avoided? “Colour theory and knowing your pigments is absolutely paramount because you’re working on a base colour that’s already been tattooed, rather than on the skin. I wouldn’t recommend trying to correct anything too grey or blue because these are dense colours that aren’t easily workable.”

two things: when did the client have

How would you approach a brow correction?

the treatment done and is it work

“If a client comes to you at least 12

correct, and regular maintenance is

you can actually correct? If the

months since their treatment with

vital; the client should revisit you

client has just had the treatment, I

another artist, analyse whether the

every six to nine months for a colour

would always advise referring them

brow shape is one you can tattoo

boost. For this reason, I sometimes

back to the person who did that

over and whether it suits the client’s

recommend correction clients have

face. If the shape is asymmetrical in

laser removal on the area first so we

length or thickness, or if the bulbs

can start afresh. Thin brows that

else’s work, you have to think about

“Warmer orangey tones will take a minimum of three sessions to

have gone salmony in colour would be ideal to correct.” >

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Brows

94 Super Cilium Henna Brow Course Duration: One day Price: £239 including kit Entry requirements: No prior experience required Location: Multiple venues Contact: 01708 465 900 (Nail Harmony) To coincide with the launch of Super Cilium Henna Brows to the UK market, Nail Harmony educators across the country will run training covering all aspects of delivering the 88% natural henna treatment that tints skin as well as brow hairs. Students will also learn colour theory, client care and troubleshooting.

Refresh YOUR

skills

If you’re looking to update your skills, check out one of the latest brow treatment courses on the market, structured for techs of all levels

Hi Brow Expert training

KB Pro Perfecting Ombré Brows Master Class Duration: One day, plus 16 hours preparatory online course Price: £795 Entry requirements: KB Pro Brows Artist, Nouveau Contour Bronze and/or Level 4 qualification and/or foundation course qualification in permanent make-up from a different training provider. Students must have been practising for a minimum of six months Location: KB Pro Yorkshire, Purley and Milton Keynes Academies Contact: 01977 655641 This newly launched course was designed to fill demand for permanent brows with an ombré finish. There is an option to learn this advanced technique for both microblading and digital artists, with both courses teaching students to create a full, defined and dramatic-looking brow as well as softer variants. All practical work is performed on mats rather than models.

Duration: One day Price: £420 Entry requirements: Hi Brow Classic training or equivalent brow-shaping qualification Location: London, Essex, Birmingham, Manchester and Scotland Contact: 020 8172 0901 The cost of this course includes a full kit containing everything needed to complete 30 treatments. Students will learn how to carry out Hi Brow Expert treatments, in which the brows are sculpted, built and coloured using tints and brow extensions. Consultation and brow-mapping theory is also included.

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Sienna X Level 1 Professional Eyebrow Treatment Course Duration: One day plus preparatory online course Price: £195 Entry requirements: No prior experience required Location: London, Worcester, Manchester Contact: 0333 600 1200 Sienna X recently expanded its product and treatment range to include brows in addition to tanning and waxing. The Sienna X Brows treatment training includes theory and practical on bespoke brow mapping, custom-blended tinting, waxing and luxury treatment extras such as applying pressure-point head massage.

LV College Korean Nanoblading and Embo Nanoblading Duration: Two days for Korean, five for Embo Nanoblading Price: Korean: £1,895; EMBO: £4,995 Entry requirements: None for Korean Nanoblading. Embo course is aimed at technicians who have completed Korean course Location: London, Edinburgh, Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol, Southampton, Essex and Kent Contact: 020 7993 5544 Korean Nanoblading uses ultrafine blades to create very fine hair strokes. It is designed to be a faster treatment, as there is no need for repetition of each stroke. Embo Nanoblading teaches tech to create the latest looks such as ombre and powdered brows using an SPMU machine.

Finishing Touches Bespoke Blading training Duration: Five days, plus minimum 24 hours preparatory home study Price: £1,950 Entry requirements: No prior experience required. A background in beauty is preferred but not essential Location: Haywards Heath and Bedfordshire Contact: 01444 414744 The permanent make-up brand has put over two decades of experience into this course, which takes a beginner through to a competent technician over five days. Students can expect a balance of theory, practical and demonstrations, having perfected practice drawings beforehand.

HD Brows training Duration: Three days Price: From £995 for the Bronze package Entry requirements: No prior experience required Location: Leeds, Glasgow, Milton Keynes, Bristol, Liverpool and Ireland Contact: 0113 224 7908 Therapists who want to learn HD Brows’ signature treatment can choose from three tiers of training. Each includes an in-depth three-day course and treatment kit containing enough products to perform 20 (Bronze), 40 (silver) or 60 (Gold) treatments. PB

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Staff Strategy

AGE OLD

question

You may be guilty of age discrimination without even realising. DAVID WRIGHT explains the law and busts some common myths around employees’ age

e know the beauty workforce is mostly female, has a high staff turnover, and that many are lost to the industry after maternity leave. In these circumstances, you would imagine that retaining experienced staff and welcoming them back to work would be high on everyone’s agenda. Too often though, older workers or flexible working requests are seen as a burden for salon owners. Age discrimination is unlawful, and there are as many claims from young workers as older workers. The Advisory, Conciliation and Arbitration Service (ACAS) recently updated its advice to employers: • Ageist remarks are likely to be discriminatory, whether or not they are meant to be insulting • Make sure applicants are not discriminated against because of age. Recruit on ability and skills • Don’t make age-based assumptions about what applicants and employees are capable of or how they will behave • Remember that, generally, the law doesn’t state a fixed retirement age • Don’t base pay just on age (but do acknowledge the minimum wage age-related bandings) • Don’t assume there is more value in training younger staff • Treat employees consistently when assessing performance and setting goals • Make sure policies and practices in the workplace don’t put an employee at a disadvantage because of age. The above seems logical but this is not always the case. I frequently hear that employers assume someone older won’t fit in, or won’t be enthusiastic enough. Often, this is based on little or no evidence.

Age-related myths Often, discrimination takes place because of ignorance of the facts. For example:

• Older staff are more likely to be off work ill - there is no evidence for this whatsoever • Asking employees aged over 50 about their work plans could be considered age discrimination – this isn’t true; an employer can ask any employee about future plans • An employer looking to fill a demanding position can interview only people aged between 30 and 45 – applicants must be selected based on the skills, knowledge and experience necessary for the role • Older employees are less able to learn new skills – there’s no evidence to support this • An employer is unlikely to get investment back when training older employees – staff under 25 are just as likely to leave as those aged over 55 • Performance decreases with age – Acas research shows there’s no deterioration for most types of work until at least age 70 • You should exclude applicants who don’t have three years’ experience – an applicant might have spent two years in a busy salon or three providing limited services to a handful of clients.

Lawful discrimination The law does allow, and in some cases require, age to be considered. For example, minimum wage rates differ with age, employees aged over 41 get more redundancy pay, and employees under 18 get longer breaks. Some areas are less clear. For example, you may improve pay or benefits for an employee who has longer service (so is usually older). The standard advice is that benefits should reflect skills, not length of service, because an employee might have five years’ service but have a terrible performance and sickness record. PB

David Wright is a consultant in all aspects of employment practice and law. He is the main employment law consultant for Habia and provides a personalised support service for UK salons. Tel: 01302 563691 davidwrightpersonnel.co.uk

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COMING SOON

MALE FACIAL WAXING COURSE FROM

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Nail News

101

Think pink Gellux has launched a new, high viscosity gel base that strengthens nails while concealing damaged, ridged or discoloured natural nail beds. The smooth base has a natural pink finish so can be worn under colour or with Gellux Top Coat for a sophisticated nude look.

NAIL BITES Marian Newman plans Swarovski workshops, and we take a look inside an award-winning salon MARIAN NEWMAN X SWAROVSKI Nail techs will soon have the chance to become certified in Swarovski nail art under a new programme developed by industry doyenne Marian Newman with the Swarovski Crystal Beauty Academy. More details will be released soon, with a pilot scheme of workshops set to launch in the UK to give nail techs the skill set needed to apply Swarovski crystals to manicure and pedicure services. Newman has also published an illustrated coffee table book called Nailed It, which launched in April. It celebrates her 30-year career and reveals the stories behind some of her most iconic nails created for fashion shows and magazines, as well as the secrets and techniques needed to recreate the looks. Newman told Professional Beauty, “I was honoured to be asked to write the book by the commissioning editor, who I knew from my 10 years working on Dior campaigns with Nick Knight and John Galliano. “It has been over two years in the making and I really am telling my story. It is full of images and each one has an anecdote of behind the scenes.” Several events are planned around the launch, including an evening event with Nick Knight at the V&A in London on May 10, where Newman will be interviewed on stage.

5 minutes with

Freelance session manicurist Hannah Missen I’ve always loved painting my own nails and creating different designs, so six years ago, I decided to bite the bullet. I completed my nail training and started my business. Assisting at London Fashion Week would definitely take the top spot in my career highlights to date. I also love collaborating with other professionals in the industry and getting creative on shoots. My all-time favourite nail art look is leopard print. It’s so simple, yet versatile, and can be incorporated into any design. I really admire Cherrie Snow. I love her clean, delicate fashion-inspired creations, and also Pria Bhamra, who goes by @BhamBnails. Her freehand work is at another level. I often check out her page for inspiration when clients ask for quirky nail art. This year, I want to focus on entering some competitions. I really want to push myself further and try out some new techniques. @hannahmissennails

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Nail News

102

SALON SPOTLIGHT Niche Nails & Beauty, Oxfordshire Opened: May 2015 Techs employed: Five Interior design vibe: “The salon has a fresh, modern feel with grey and pink interior and accents of copper. Although the décor is modern, the building is a little older, meaning we have a beautiful, original fireplace, bay window and quirky arches in the walls. We complement this subtle vintage vibe with our choice of modern white furniture, interesting lighting and dusky pink shades.” USP: “Niche is a family. We see our clients as part of that, so they feel at home in the salon while receiving first-class service within a fun and friendly atmosphere. We strive to create a bespoke service for our clients, finding the perfect combination of products to suit their needs, and our huge selection of colours, glitters and other nail art items, allow us to create a unique experience.” Booking: “Clients can download our app, book via our website or Facebook page, call the salon or, of course, pop in and see us.” Typical client: “We have such an array of clients, from young to old,

professionals to retirees. However, I would say our most typical clients are women aged 30 to 50 who see their visit to the salon as a priority, not a luxury.” Most popular service: “Gel or liquid-andpowder enhancements finished with CND Shellac and lashings of glitter.” Most popular colour: “CND’s Unlocked is a great nude that suits every skin tone and the bright red Wildfire is a classic that never goes out of fashion.” Future plans: “We plan to expand to larger premises in the near future, allowing us to offer more beauty services alongside our nail treatments and current, more limited, beauty offerings. We are very education-focused, so there will be more skill-building courses to come, helping the team work towards their CND Master qualifications and beyond.” Natasha Barker is owner of Niche Nails & Beauty, which won Nail Salon of the Year at the Professional Beauty Awards 2019 facebook.com/niche.nb @nichenailbeauty @natashabarker_cnd @nichenailbeauty

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105 Treatment News

Brow by Mii Express Treatments Mii has created a new Brow by Mii menu of express services to help salons and spas drive further business by offering a larger range of brow services. The 15-minute Shape service sees the therapist perfecting brows with Mii’s professional sculpting wax. In the 20-minute Tidy and Tint, brows are enhanced with a semi-permanent tint and the therapist expertly blends shades to achieve the client’s perfect colour, in addition to tweezing away any stray hairs. Express Mii is another 20-minute treatment that includes a specialist tint, wax and shape for a super quick brow transformation. Meanwhile, Maintain Mii takes 25 minutes and is designed to maintain perfect brows between the Design Mii treatment, Mii’s full bespoke brow treatment which lasts 45 minutes and comprises an in-depth consultation, followed by tinting, waxing, shaping and finishing. Gerrard International recommends charging from £15 for the Shape. Call the company on 0345 217 1360

In the FRAME

Revenue-boosting and eye-framing lash and brow services plus a scrub to promote silky summer skin feature in our pick of new treatments

Lash Extend by Nail Harmony Nail Harmony has entered the lash market with its new, professional brand Lash Extend. After consultation, a gel eye pad is placed on the eyelash rim of the client’s lower eyelid. A soft micro tape is

used to keep the pad from shifting and the lower lashes well covered. The client then closes their eyes throughout the treatment. Oil and grease are removed from the natural lashes using the brand’s protein remover/primer which prepares the lashes for adhesion. The lashes are also blow-dried with a mini hand fan before tweezers are used to spread out the natural lashes, singling them out one at a time. The therapist then passes three quarters of a lash extension from the strip through the glue before excess glue is wiped off on a glue sticker. The extension is then applied to the natural eyelash, alternating eyes to allow lashes time to dry. The mini hand fan is used to blow-dry eyelashes between applications and for up to a minute once the lash extension has been applied. Lashes are given a special coating to protect them against oil, perspiration and dehydration of the lash extension glue. After a final blow dry, Lash Mister is applied. Nail Harmony recommends charging £55 for a full set of classic lashes and £70 for a full set of volume lashes. Call the brand on 01708 465900

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Treatment News

106 Repêchage Fusion Matcha Lemongrass Face & Body Sugar Scrub Treatment This 60-minute treatment from Repêchage is designed to prepare clients’ skin for the summer months. After lying face down on the couch, the client inhales therapeutic oils as the treatment begins on the legs. The body is sprayed with alcohol before the skin is gently buffed with the Repêchage Signature Dry Brush to remove oils. The legs are then covered with a plastic Myler sheet as the therapist moves to the back. The scrub is applied using moistened fingertips or hot stones. After a five-minute circular massage, the back is covered and the matcha and lemongrass formula is applied on the legs, working for five minutes on each. The product is then removed from the back, and finally from the legs. After the client is has turned over, the Repêchage Lamina Lift Hydrating Seaweed Mask is applied to the face and left to set while a similar scrub process is repeated on the front of the body. The client

then enjoys a five-minute Shiatsu massage on the face before the mask is removed. The treatment finishes with a light, full-body massage. Repêchage recommends charging £125 for a 60-minute treatment. Call the brand on 0800 731 7546

This month we tried… Priori Skin Unwrapped at Karidis Clinic The lowdown: Cosmeceutical skincare brand Priori has launched a menu of peel treatments into Karidis Clinic, based in North London within the Hospital of Saint John and Saint Elizabeth. Designed with fast results in mind, the menu ranges from the 15-minute Peel It, billed as a “quick lunchtime peel”, to the hour-long Uncover, Expose, Renew treatment, which includes a hand and arm peel plus facial massage. The experience: I opted for the 30-minute Skin Re-boot treatment, usually for clients who have previously experienced Priori’s peel system, which favours AHA lactic acid as its main exfoliating component. This was my first time having a Priori peel, and my therapist, aesthetic nurse Karolina Padolskyte, went through a careful consultation and decided I was a safe and suitable candidate for the full protocol, using the Multi Layer Peel Gel. Having established my main skin concerns – acne scars and nasolabial lines that are rapidly becoming

more prominent – Padolskyte performed a thorough double cleanse and primed my skin with Pre Peel Gel. This contains 5% lactic acid and degreases skin for optimum peel performance. Padolskyte then brushed the peeling formula, which, along with the lactic acid, contains a blend of BHAs, other AHAs and antioxidants. I’m fairly experienced in peels but even for me the tingle was bordering on uncomfortable as the three-minute timer rang and Padolskyte started to remove it. It wasn’t until the third round of warm towel removal than my skin fully settled. That said, it was still completely manageable and was quickly soothed by the DNA Recovery Serum Padolskyte applied afterwards. After a layer of Tetra Broad Spectrum SPF 45 Sunscreen and a dusting of Minerals Broad Spectrum SPF 25 mineral foundation, I was good to go. The verdict: I experienced a few days of rough, dry skin and slight redness following the peel, but it was a small price to pay for the amazing results. My skin was – and still is, two weeks on – brighter, clearer and smoother, with my acne scarring and blackheads visibly minimised. Business benefits: Creating a menu of peel treatments that increase in strength and length is a great way to get apprehensive clients to step up their facials. It also makes selling them on to courses much easier. Lactic acid is generally considered one of the gentler AHAs, meaning more clients are likely to be able to tolerate the peel and step up the intensity at a quicker pace for ultimate results. Karidis Clinic charges from £100 for the peels. Call Priori distributor Skinbrands on 03333 122434 Tried by Georgia Seago

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109 New Products

Elemis Two new products are being added to Elemis’s Peptide4 range. Plumping Pillow Facial is a lightweight mask that nourishes dehydrated skin, with star arvensis oil, speedwell extract, red seaweed and the brand’s bio functional tetrapeptide (Peptide4); while Adaptive Day Cream boosts skin’s defences against environmental aggressors and includes mattifying mineral microspheres to blur the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The brand is also launching Frangipani Monoi Hair & Scalp Mask, with kau pe flower extract to soften and pink clay to remove product build up. RRP: £52 for Pillow Facial, £50 for Adaptive Day Cream, £33 for Hair & Scalp Mask 0117 316 1888 elemis.com

SCENTS

of spring

Essential oils and plant extracts put a fresh twist on May’s launches, while skincare focuses on cooling and protecting clients’ skin

SBC SBC’s Refreshing Watermelon summer collection comprises two products to hydrate. Skincare Gel can be used on the face and body and contains glycerin to help lock in moisture, while Shower Gel & Shampoo is formulated with vitamin B5 and plantasil, an ingredient that helps prevent hair breakage. The conditioning gel deeply cleanses without stripping skin and hair of natural oils. Along with watermelon, the products’ fragrance blends notes of strawberry, grapefruit, redcurrant and peach. Trade: from £6 for the 250ml shower gel 01449 727070 sbcgels.com

CND Yes, I Do is the first bridal collection from CND. Available in Shellac gel-polish and Vinylux longwear polish, the line comprises four neutral shades. White Wedding taps into the white nail trend, Bouquet offers up a super-subtle hint of pink, Veiled is a soft cream tone and Forever Yours is a slightly deeper pink. Trade: £13.95 per Shellac, £4.95 per Vinylux shade 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

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New Products

110 Mii Cosmetics The make-up brand has developed an adaptable modular compact display for salons and spas. It offers three key trend focuses – highlighting, bridal and bronzing – with the opportunity to switch between different collections and campaign imagery within one display. Each look uses nine display products. Mii is also launching a new product for spring. Forever Eye Colour Crayon is available in four matte shades: Mocha, Dusty Rose, Sandstone and Burnt Copper. Trade: from £241.77 for the display unit; £8.50 each for the eye crayons 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

Image Skincare

Gelish The new collection from Gelish is a collaboration with Paramount Pictures on its Elton John biopic Rocketman. The seven-piece Rocketman Summer 2019 collection features six shades, including bright pink Tickle My Keys, rich purple Just Me & My Piano and sunny yellow Glow Like A Star, as well as Bedazzle Me, a glitter overlay that adds a sparkle to any of the colours. Trade: £119.94 for collection; £19.99 each for Gelish; £16.99 each for Gelish Dip 01708 465900 (Nail Harmony) nailharmonyuk.com

Masks are a key focus for Image Skincare this month. Purifying Probiotic Masque features a blend of yogurt-based probiotics and antioxidant superfruits, as well as vitamins and minerals to target dullness, plus green clay and charcoal to purify pores. Also new is Firming Transformation mask, which has a shimmering blue formula and is designed to fight skin stressors. Meanwhile, both the Anti-ageing and the Hydrating Hydrogel Sheet Masks have been reformulated. RRP: £49 for Purifying Probiotic; £59 for Firming Transformation; £35 for five sheet masks 0345 504 0461 imageskincare.co.uk

HD Brows The brow brand has reformulated its Pro Pencil to be creamier and therefore gentler on the skin, with a higher colour pay-off. The new formulation is available in black, with three more shades soon to be released. It now features indentations under the tip of the pencil, making it easier for technicians to expose new layers of pencil lead, which is then shaved on both sides using a special tool to create a fine tip. RRP: £18 0113 224 7908 hdbrows.com

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New Products

112 Hive The new 24K Collection uses white beeswax as a foundation, with the addition of active ingredients. The first product to launch in this new line is Charcoal D/Tox Hot Film Wax Pellets 500g. Activated charcoal is included to draw toxins from within the pores, leaving skin cleansed as well as hair-free. The pliable hot wax is particularly suitable for specialist waxing such as beard shaping or nose and eyebrow waxing. Trade: £7.40 0845 450 4802 hiveofbeauty.co.uk

Spotlight

Light Elegance One Scoop or Two? Is the spring collection from Light Elegance, available in Color Gels and the best-selling Glitter Gels. With ice cream-themed names such as Two Straws, One Shake and A Lotto Gelato, the six colours include creamy corals, bright pinks and dark silver. Also new for spring is the ButterCream First Date collection, with six shades including creamy mauve Giddy Girl and soft pink Butterflies. Trade: £14.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Caudalie Suncare range

With 14,000 tonnes of sun cream discharged onto coral reefs every year, the pressure is on for beauty companies to come up with innovative formulas that are effective but also eco-friendly. French skincare brand Caudalie has achieved just that with its new five-piece Suncare Range, which claims to protect skin from UVA and UVB while not harming marine life. The lotions are made up of four environmentally-safe sun filter molecules, formulated at a lower dosage than the market average, alongside the brand’s patented antioxidant complex which contains polyphenols from grape seeds, spruce extract and vitamin E, to protect skin from oxidative stress and stop premature ageing. The brand has avoided using filters known to be toxic to eco-systems like oxybenzone and octinoxate, which are said to kill thousands of marine life each year, and the products have received a scientific guarantee validating its nontoxicity on algae. The range comprises AntiWrinkle Face Suncare SPF 30 and SPF 50, a lightweight cream which protects against the sun’s rays while keeping dehydration at bay; Beautifying Suncare Oil SPF 30, a dry oil which blends grapeseed oil

with sesame and sunflower oil to achieve a healthy, radiant tan; and Milky Sun Spray SPF 30 and SPF 50, a light-texture spray suitable for sensitive skin that provides protection from head to toe. The products are water-resistant, do not contain hydrosoluble filters and are highly biodegradable, which is essential to protecting the marine environment, and fragranced with frangipani flowers. RRP: from £18 to £21 020 7720 7111 uk.caudlaie.com

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114 New Products

Moroccan Tan Moroccan Tan’s Tanner’s Choice Trio Sample Pack is a limited-edition kit containing three of the brand’s best-selling solutions. Put together to introduce tanning therapists to the range, the kit includes Accelerated, Nights and Original formulas in 125ml bottles. Accelerated delivers a dark tan with an intense finish when washed off after just 30 minutes, while Original gives a medium bronze colour and Nights is the brand’s deepest most “exotic” tan, enhanced with violet bronzers. Trade: £14.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Babor The German skincare brand has launched a limitededition range of ampoule concentrates for summer, with the aim to inspire body confidence. Each ampoule in the six-piece The Art of Beautiful Skin set is named after a “strong beauty power”. Glow Addict is designed for dehydrated skin, containing hyaluronic acid, peptide P3 and glow pigments; Vitamin Diva is for dull complexions, with provitamin B5 and vitamins A and E; Night Lover rebalances tired skin overnight; Detox Angel clarifies with microalgae; Ageless Hero regenerates skin using yellow horned poppy; and Hemp Rebel contains natural hemp seed oil to treat signs of stress. RRP: £19.90–£29.90 per box of seven 020 7287 7775 uk.babor.com

Dermalogica Prisma Protect SPF30 not only defends against damaging UV rays but uses advanced light-activated intelligent drone technology to boost the skin’s natural luminosity, plus a bioferment from sage to even tone. It also contains plantderived hydrators. The brand has also launched Redness Relief Essence, a toner and serum hybrid that cools skin using liquorice root extract and aloe vera, while propanediol and piperonyl glucoside target inflammation and salvia officinalis extract strengthens the lipid barrier. RRP: £58 for Prisma, £38 for Redness Relief Essence 0800 917 7147 dermalogica.co.uk

Jessica Protecting your clients’ nail health has never been easier thanks to Jessica’s new Phenom Base Coat, packed with calcium, aloe vera, and vitamins A and C to protect against breakage. The brand has also launched two high-shine metallics for summer, Gleaming Gold and Pearly Platinum, both available in Custom Colour and Geleration. Trade: £6.75 for Phenom Base Coat, £5.50 for each Custom Colour, £17.75 for each Geleration colour 0345 201 0825 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

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10/04/2019 15:55

116 New Products

Katherine Daniels Total Skin Repair Concentrate is formulated to help boost the skin’s defence against the visible indications of ageing and repair damage caused by pollution particles, UV and blue light. The lightweight gel formula features key ingredients including fibroblast growth factors, antioxidants and peptides, as well as oxygenating rhodella violacea microalgae and flax seed extract to stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. RRP: £48 01767 682288 katherinedanielscosmetics.com

OTO OTO is a new brand of CBD oil products available to salons and spas to retail. Developed by a food scientist and former fashion designer, the products contain a pure concentration of 20% CBD oil, which is mixed with an essential oil blend and packaged in a rollon format to be applied to pulse points. There are three to choose from – Focus, with rosemary, ylang ylang and peppermint; Amplify, with bergamot, bitter orange and sandalwood; or Balance, a blend of lavender, chamomile and cajeput. RRP: £109 for 8ml 020 3963 5955 otocbd.com

Delfy Cosmetics New from the make-up brand is a collection of nine professional brushes made from synthetic fibres. There are three eye brushes: N2 Eye Shadow, N3 Eye Shadow Blending and N4 Eye Shadow Flat Blending; two foundation brushes: N5 and the angled N6; the N7 Cosmetic Brush made from “special degree” nylon for skincare application; in addition to N8 Contour/ Blush, N9 Mixed Hair Powder and N10 Contouring. Trade: from £3.90 07452 030876 delfycosmetics.com

Neom Organics New from the organic aromatherapy brand is Magnesium Body Butter, in Real Luxury and Perfect Night’s Sleep scents. The 100% natural formula contains magnesium – which, for most people, is better absorbed through the skin than through consumption – for wellbeing benefits such as improved sleep quality. Each tube contains 75mg per 5ml of product. Other ingredients include shea butter, coconut oil and essential oils such as lavender, jasmine and Brazilian rosewood. RRP: £36 for 200ml 01423 878810 neomorganics.com

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/04/2019 11:58

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13/02/2019 13:49

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Classified

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10/04/2019 11:54 09/04/2019 12:46

Career Path

120

How to make it as a...

facialist Celebrity facialist Anastasia Achilleos on the challenges of specialising in facials and the education and skills required to make it big

1. You need a passion for anatomy

brands, spas or other big-name facialists who are doing

“After gaining my City & Guilds Beauty Therapy

amazing things and try to get under their wings. There

qualification, I was headhunted by Space NK to work at

are a lot of wellness brands popping up now so there’s

its flagship store in Notting Hill, specialising in facials.

lots of new avenues to explore.”

I was taught eight different companies’ facial protocols by the brand founders, including Eve Lom, and it was

3. Be mentally prepared

during training that I felt a new movement. I told Eve

“It’s important to remember that as a therapist you’re

what was happening and she said, ‘My dear girl, do you

directly transferring your energy and feelings into the

not know what craniosacral therapy is? Because you’re

client during treatment, so they can feel if you’re not

doing it’. The realisation that I was doing something

mentally in the room. For example, if your mind is on

different was the turning point for me.

something else, like a fight you had with your partner,

“I didn’t stay a conventional beauty therapist for long.

you need to become more perceptive and leave your

I visited a cranial institute, made the transition to a physician

emotional baggage at the door. If you don’t connect

and then developed the Anastasia Achilleos Method, a

with your client then you’re going to find it tough to

treatment that taps into the craniosacral rhythms of the

make your mark in this industry.”

body, using my experience in reiki and energy lines to release connective tissues in the face that have become

4 .Make your menu client-centric

stiff over time to reveal a younger-looking appearance.”

“The problem is there isn’t much advanced education for

2. Work with the right people

facials on the curriculum to help make therapists better.

“If you’re wondering how to make it as a celebrity

that makes money but the focus has always been on

facialist, then I’m afraid it is an extremely unrealistic

developing massage. Now, the industry is stuck in

goal. It’s like saying how does somebody who plays

between luxury facials at spas that don’t do that much

football become Cristiano Ronaldo? It can happen but

and just poor facials because there’s no real further

it shouldn’t be your end goal. For me, my profile grew

education, with just a handful making a difference.

organically. I worked on editorial and fashion shoots

The industry has kept facial treatments as something

“But, change is coming. Luxury wellness exists, which

performing my method on models and it was during the

it didn’t 18 years ago, and clients are now skin savvy –

time that there was a huge demand for ‘facial lifting’.

they know what they want. Until the education improves,

Before I knew it, the press started writing about me.

look at your menu and update it so it’s results-driven

“However, there’s no one set formula for making it.

because a traditional facial is no longer good enough.

To elevate your career, you have to become better at

Now is the time to change the way you work so you

what you do and find new tools to achieve it. If you

deliver client-centric treatments. Create something

haven’t learned anything since you qualified, then you

transformative but remember, if you fall short of the

will become stagnant. You should align yourself with

expectation then you’ll lose the client.”

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/04/2019 11:58

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