Professional Beauty UK - October 2019 by Professional Beauty UK

AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS

SENSE OF CALM HOW UK SPAS ARE EMBRACING THE CBD TREATMENT TREND

AHEAD OF THE GAME THE LAUNCHES AND TRENDS AT PB NORTH

October 2019 | professionalbeauty.co.uk

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October 2019

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Contents

Oct

Regulars

Miss Selfridge

Contents

29 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 32 Social surgery Why social media is the new word of mouth 37 Out & about Behind the scenes at the biggest parties 43 Insider Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 55 Ward’s world How work culture can affect someone’s decision to leave 59 Ask the experts Becoming a franchisee and increasing your treatment prices 129 Nail notes How YouTube learning is damaging the nail industry 143 Operational advice The rules around taking on an apprentice 145 Treatment news 3D-lipo’s new machines, and Lashus Extensions 151 New products AW19 make-up collections from Artdeco and Sothys 160 Career path LivNordic’s Lee-Ann Galloway on life as a cruise ship therapist

Features 51 Time to shine The PB Awards 2020 open for entries this month 71 Talking to… Annabel Maginnis The influencer on how she used social media to launch her Nails by Annabel empire 77 Can you refuse to perform an intimate wax? Sam Marshall weighs in on the issue and covers waxers’ rights 123 Force of nature How Rigo Spa helped The Elan Spa work nature into its interiors 125 T he problem with fast-track online courses Teacher Kerry Beavis explores the issue of budget education 131 Five ways to motivate staff in December How to boost team morale during your busiest period 134 Festive fancies 19 of the best Christmas gift sets to stock

On the cover 82 Show and tell Check out the hot product launches and educational features taking place at Professional Beauty North this month, plus we answer your burning show FAQs 114 Eco experience With the beauty and spa industry working to reduce its impact on the environment, we explore the responsible changes you can make in your business to reduce water and energy, especially in thermal areas 126 Natural remedy CBD beauty is trending. We dissect the properties of the “wonder” ingredient and explore how you can add cannabidiol-infused rituals to your treatment menu Cover image: River Island

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Editor’s Comment

With consumers increasingly making choices based on the ethical and sustainability credentials of a business, it’s becoming more important for spas and salons to not only make changes but also to make those values clear in their marketing. Finding ways to save energy and water are high on the sustainability agenda for most businesses now, and spas are undoubtedly among the biggest consumers of both. While a lot of savings are dependent on the materials and equipment chosen at build stage, there are also some simple changes that can be made in existing set-ups, many of which can also save costs in the long-run. We explore the options for both in our feature on page 114. Client interest in all things CBD is also on the rise, and our Trend Watch piece on page 126 explores the practicalities of introducing this ingredient into your treatment menu. Of course, the influence of consumer demand should only go so far when it comes to making changes to the ethos of a business, which, first and foremost, needs to reflect the objectives and needs of the owner and their team. Beauty therapy is an unusually intimate profession so it’s imperative that business owners have the right to protect the safety of both therapist and client. In our Hot Topic column on page 77, waxing specialist Sam Marshall asks, when is it OK to say no to performing an intimate wax? Clearly, it’s never right to discriminate but if a client makes a therapist feel uncomfortable, or they’re unqualified to perform the treatment requested, we need to protect our rights to say no in certain circumstances.

Editor

@Pro_Beauty01

@Pro_Beauty

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13 News

News Beauty salons in Cumbria give back with domestic abuse and mental health initiatives New beauty businesses in Cumbria are doing more for their local community, from giving domestic violence survivors the chance to learn beauty therapy to training staff in mental health first aid. The Women Out West Centre based at Haig Enterprise Park in West Cumbria is helping women in all kinds of circumstances, such as victims of domestic violence, those affected by separation or divorce and others on the poverty line, to learn the art of beauty therapy, empowering them to reach their full potential. The salon, which had a soft launch in June but opened full time in September with two members of staff, also gives women access to facilities such as a laundry room, social areas and private one-to-one spaces. Founder Rachel Holliday said that in June alone 48 women

used the centre. Meanwhile, three senior managers at Abbey House Hotel and Gardens in Cumbria, which has a treatment room called The Beauty Room, have undergone mental health first aid training with school SOA Safety to spot the signs of mental ill-health in colleagues. General manager John Horton now wants to extend the programme further to other employees. “We’re very keen to do what we can to look after both the physical and mental health of our team,” he said. “People who have mental health challenges can quite often internalise them, when the best thing

to do is seek the appropriate help and support. Our mental health first aiders are not trained counsellors, however, they have been coached in what to look out for and the next steps to take, should they feel that a colleague is in need of support.”

Beauty consumers most likely to switch up skincare routines in autumn

Clients are most likely to rethink their skin regimes in the autumn months, as the desire to invest in new products peaks again after people have settled into the changes they made for the New Year. Ideas and image-sharing platform Pinterest released statistics on

searches related to the lifestyle changes users want to incorporate as we move into autumn. Beauty and wellness routines were among the top searches on the site during this period according to search data collected from June 2018 to June 2019. In a survey that Pinterest commissioned about consumers’ autumn preparation to coincide with the statistics, 26% of respondents said they were looking to start a new routine at this time of year, with 45% saying they feel more inclined to make small improvements that will increase their happiness in autumn. Searches for “sustainable

lifestyle” were up 108%, as users looked for ways to make more eco-friendly purchasing decisions, including beauty products. The website also saw a spike in searches relating to body positivity. Trending searches included “acne positivity”, up by 193%, “stretch marks positivity”, with a 163% increase, “body hair positivity”, up by 158% and “cellulite positivity”, with a rise in searches of 69%. “Over the years, we’ve seen the end of summer become a distinct moment on Pinterest when people want to make personal changes to refresh their routines, set goals, get organised and, most importantly, stay positive,” said Enid Hwang, culture and community manager at Pinterest. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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05/09/2019 16:40 04/09/2019 10:56:53

inbrief

A dispute between staff at a school near Newcastle and a pupil’s mother over nail extensions has made headlines. 15-year old Gracie Fish’s mother threatened to remove her from Burnside College in Wallsend permanently before completing her GCSEs because the student was asked to remove her green acrylic extensions before a college placement. Fish was due to attend a placement week on a beauty therapy course and was asked to remove the nails beforehand on health and safety grounds. When her mother refused to have the nails removed, Fish wasn’t allowed to attend the placement and instead spent the week in isolation at school. Burnside College head teacher Daniel Jamieson told Chronicle Live: “Fake nails can cause injuries if they are ripped off and they can also hinder a student’s ability to participate fully in lessons, which has a detrimental effect on their learning.”

// Skincare brand BeautyLab London, which is distributed by Gerrard International, has unveiled new campaign imagery with a focus on radiant skin. The images of model Stacey Hannant were shot by photographer Mateusz Sitek, and will be available to salons and spas soon.

In a letter to parents and carers earlier in the year, the school said that in some extreme cases students couldn’t even pick up a pen to write because of the length of their nail extensions. The story caused debate among salon professionals. Turn to page 29 for just a few of the opinions shared on Professional Beauty’s social media pages.

Sales of foundations with SPF and moisturising properties soar

Consumers are turning to foundations with added benefits to ace their base, with UK sales of prestige foundations with moisturising, balancing and SPF

News

School nail extension ban sparks industry debate

properties reporting an increase of 114% in the first seven months of this year (January to July 2019). According to data from market analyst The NPD Group, one of the biggest areas of growth was in the sun protection category, with sales of foundations containing an SPF from 30 to 50 soaring 73% in this time period, representing 6% of all total foundation sales for the first half of 2019. Meanwhile, foundations with moisturising properties totalled £30 million, representing 26% of all foundation sales made in this time period, while those with balancing benefits reached £17m, amounting to 14% of total sales, the report found. “The growth of make-up with skincare benefits demonstrates that today’s savvy consumers are looking for products that enhance the skin while protecting and perfecting at the same time,” said June Jensen, director of NPD UK beauty.

// Global Wellness Day is one of just 15 social responsibility projects and charities chosen by the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, Harry and Meghan, to follow on their official Instagram page. The couple’s nine million-plus followers nominated the organisations. // A team of 10 therapists has completed cancer therapy training with Made For Life Organics for the upcoming launch of The Spa at Carden. In addition, a partnership with charity Shine Bright has been secured, with three members invited to experience the spa recently. // New York Laser Clinic has launched a vegan beer facial in its three London sites: Fulham, Baker Street and Bishopsgate. Said to treat acne by slowing sebum production due to its yeast content, the treatment also includes a beer and strawberry scrub. // Cosmeceutical brand Nimue Skin Technology has named Farrah Fawcett as lead skincare specialist. She will teach in distributor Sweet Squared’s Leeds academy while lending support to Nimue salons and continuing to run her own salon, Angels Beauty Lounge in Hedon. The brand’s treatments are also now available in Malmasion Spas in Birmingham and Newcastle.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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inbrief

// Tanning brand Crazy Angel has rebranded, moving away from its “boudoir style roots” and instead focusing on empowering women and men with a greater range of tones, shapes and sizes. This change includes a redesign of the brand’s marketing materials and logo. // The Strong Customer Authentication (SCA) rule, where clients who pay via a debit or credit card online must provide an additional form of identification, has been delayed. It was intended for introduction on September 14, 2019, but the Financial Conduct Authority has given businesses an additional 18 months to prepare. // Nail brand Jessica is bringing back its Insta Nail Art Courses with guest tech Samantha Cox. The courses will run between September 16 and November 26, open to Jessica account holders across various locations. // A staggering 90% of people with olive skin still struggle to find the right foundation for their skin type, according to a survey by EX1 Cosmetics, which creates make-up specifically for this skin tone. Only 8% of those with very fair or deep tanned skin find their tone easy to match, too. // Blink Brow Bar has launched a permanent site on King’s Road in Chelsea, London, offering a wide range of brow and lash services. Founder Vanita Parti said: “It’s a real triumph for our brand’s expansion to have sealed this deal.”

Microblading and HD Brows among most searched beauty terms Brow treatments were among the top beauty searches in the UK over the past 12 months. Online beauty retailer Fragrance Direct analysed Google search data across Europe over the past year to find out which beauty and hair terms were searched for the most in each country. “What is microblading” and “what are HD Brows” were in the top six hair and beauty searches for the UK, and the top three beauty searches, with 96,600 and 53,500 searches respectively. “How to contour” came in second, with 67,900 searches, while “How to apply eyeshadow” was searched for 51,800 times.

Elsewhere in Europe, “microshading” proved popular, coming out as the top search in Spain, Switzerland and Cyprus. Similar to microblading, the semipermanent brow treatment creates tiny dots of pigment rather than hair strokes and is believed by some technicians to be more suitable for those with oily or sensitive skin or naturally thicker brows.

A quarter of women feel uncomfortable in their skin Almost a quarter of women feel uncomfortable in their own skin because they think they don’t meet “typical beauty standards”. Gillette Venus’s poll of 2,000 women found that six in 10 blame their lack of self-esteem on not meeting mainstream beauty ideals, while a fifth admitted to feeling insecure because of the influencers they see on social media. As such, half of women aged 18–24 avoid posting pictures of themselves on Instagram.

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News

The question of whether the beauty industry was partly to blame was addressed, with respondents saying they feel only 10% of beauty brands use realistic representations of women in campaign imagery.

Beauty therapist Rebecca West wins gold for UK at WorldSkills 2019 East Sussex College student Rebecca West, 22, took home gold for Beauty Therapy as part of team UK at WorldSkills 2019 – a competition that measures the skills and excellence of therapists across the globe. “I’m in shock. I’m so proud to say

that I’m now the best in the world,” said West. “I’ve done nothing but train and although it’s been crazy, all the hard work has paid off.” The 45th WorldSkills Competition was held in Kazan, Russia, and aims to raise the profile and recognition of skilled people in all industries, showing how important these sectors are for achieving economic growth.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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News

inbrief

// Spa skin and body care brand Pevonia was chosen to supply equipment to the beauty team at the WorldSkills UK competition. UK beauty therapy competitor and winner Rebecca West also received training on the brand’s Ionto-Comed device. // Yorkshire eco-spa Titanic has rebranded with a new logo and messaging, as well as plans to redesign its website. The logo is intended to have an organic yet sophisticated feel, while the new colour palette has been inspired by the refurbished interior of the 19th century textile mill in which the spa is housed. // The skills of beauty therapists around the world were celebrated on September 9 as part of Cidesco’s International Beauty Day. The standards body for beauty and spa therapy invited its members to join in the celebrations, // Scottish organic seaweed skincare brand Ishga is to repackage its product range in recyclable glass and aluminium to help reduce plastic waste. It has also phased out latex gloves, wet wipes and bubble wrap, replacing them with biodegradable alternatives. // Elemis has once again partnered with Breast Cancer Care, launching a limited-edition 100ml Pro-Collagen Marine Cream in aid of Breast Cancer Awareness Month. The brand will donate £25,000 from sales of the product in October to the charity.

42% of generation Z want to train in beauty therapy Almost half of generation Z would consider pursuing a career in beauty, according to research by international standard-setting body Cidesco. The brand’s survey of current Irish school leavers found that 88% of 17–19-year-olds rank make-up and beauty as their top interest, with nearly half (42%) stating that they would like to train in the industry, which is good news for salons and spas who are struggling to recruit. “The impact of Ireland’s buoyant beauty industry is evident and is manifesting in an unprecedented demand for professional training and educational courses,” said Cidesco Ireland president Mary O’Donoghue.

“Employment in this sector offers many candidates a career that is engaging and fulfilling while also being flexible and stable.” In Ireland, it is estimated that €9 million is spent on beauty and wellness each day.

Armathwaite Hall Spa blends fitness with hydrotherapy in new gym A new £100,000 gym is on its way to Armathwaite Hall Hotel & Spa in Keswick. There will be tailor-made programmes to help gym users choose the workout that best meets their needs and fitness levels, which can be combined with the spa’s hydrotherapy facilities to create a bespoke holistic fitness plan. The gym will have an emphasis on aiding recovery from burnout and sporting injury. It will feature Life Fitness dual-use machines with connectivity capabilities, such as a GX Water Rower which emulates real life rowing, limiting strain on the back and hip joints.

Other equipment will include a Curved Treadmill to encourage better foot placement, as well as IC7 Indoor Cycles which mimic road biking and monitor a user’s leg function.

Oriele Frank recognised among CEW Achievers Oriele Frank, Elemis managing director, has been named one of Cosmetic Executive Women’s (CEW) 2019 Achievers. Frank is among four women in the beauty industry to be given the award, presented by CEW to recognise outstanding achievements and

contributions to the industry. The other recipients are: Margaret Dabbs, founder and chief executive of the eponymous podiatry brand; Annalise Fard, director of beauty, accessories, fine jewellery and watches at Harrods; and Caroline Hirons, aesthetician and skincare expert. The 2019 CEW Achiever Awards will take place on Wednesday, October 30 in London.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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News

Phorest opens US headquarters Irish-owned salon software brand Phorest has opened a US headquarters in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. All US operations will be based at the headquarters, in a newly refurbished building in the city centre. The company will also bring its Salon Owners Summit Roadshow to the city in October. Founded in 2003, Phorest now operates in the UK, US, Ireland, Finland, Germany and Australia.

Medik8 launches refreshed protocols and peels to the professional market Cosmeceutical skincare brand Medik8 has refreshed its professional treatments. In order to better

reflect the brand’s philosophy and be more in line with its homecare regimes, every Medik8 facial and peel now incorporates its CSA approach to skincare – vitamin C and sunscreen by day and vitamin A at night. Each treatment will end with an application of vitamin C and SPF30 sunscreen, and clients will be gifted a sample of its vitamin A product that best suits their skin’s needs from a selection of three. The brand has also launched six Combination Lifestyle Peels

with time-release technology to minimise irritation from vitamin A. There are also three new Mono Peels, each with one type of acid in varying concentrations – glycolic, lactic or mandelic. These can be layered over any of the stronger peels or on particular areas of concern, allowing therapists to create bespoke peels. The peels’ formulas have been improved with a more viscous texture to avoid pooling in crevices on the face and make them safer to use around the eyes.

First spa partner for Gaia Skincare Gaia Skincare, the skin and body care range developed by Gaia Spa at Boringdon Hall in Plymouth, has partnered with Whatley Manor’s seven-treatment room Aquarias Spa. The Cotswolds-based hotel is Gaia’s first partner outside of its flagship spa and sister property, Fistral Beach Hotel & Spa in Cornwall. Gaia chose to partner with Whatley Manor owing to a shared philosophy around ecocredentials and nurturing wellness. Gaia will work with the spa to create an exclusive retail space

to stock the full range of products, while a bespoke two-and-a-halfhour treatment ritual has been created to sit alongside Gaia’s signature treatments. Gaia Skincare founder Diane Nettleton commented: “We have been working hard behind the scenes to develop our brand ready to partner with spas that share the same ethos. “We will be working together over the next couple of months to ensure all therapists are trained in all Gaia treatments to an exceptional standard.”

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Fiona Brackenbury leaves Decléor to set up consultancy Skin expert Fiona Brackenbury is leaving Decléor and Carita after 21 years. Brackenbury will leave L’Oréal Group on October 2 to launch her own skincare and spa consultancy business. After working her way up through the ranks at Decléor, Brackenbury most recently served as global education director since November 2018. Notable achievements include creating the formula for the brand’s best-selling

cleanser worldwide and designing signature essential oil-based treatments for luxury spas around the world. Brackenbury was also heavily involved in the brand’s development across sales, marketing and education, and has presented on home shopping channel QVC – a popular sales platform for Decléor – since 2001. She will launch her consultancy business in October 2019, providing business development and management, sales and retail training, skin education, product development, treatment design, and coaching and mentoring services to beauty brands and individuals.

diarydates // October 5–7 Salon International ExCeL, London The UK’s top exhibition for hairdressing professionals, comprising seminars, competitions and live stages. 020 7351 0536 salonshow.co.uk

News

// October 13–14 Professional Beauty North EventCity, Manchester The largest beauty exhibition in the North, with a packed education line-up and networking opportunities. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ north // October 15–16 Independent Hotel Show Olympia, London Event for boutique hotels, featuring seminars. 020 7351 0536 independenthotelshow.co.uk // October 15–17 Global Wellness Summit Grand Hyatt, Hong Kong International conference for spa and wellness professionals. +1212 716 1199 globalwellnesssummit.com

HD Brows announces new training location and education changes Pro brows brand HD Brows is to open a training academy in Bristol from September, having secured a permanent location. HD Brows previously ran its Bristol training from Reflections Training Academy since May 2017 on an ad-hoc basis, but will now operate permanently from business centre HERE Bristol. The brand has also announced significant changes to the structure of its training course to make it more accessible to all technicians wishing to learn. The course has

been shortened from three days to one, with the curriculum delivered differently to fit the time. Students will complete theory work at home and the previously mandatory third day refresher can be taken as optional re-attendance of the first day. HD Brows has also reduced the price of training from £995 to £250, with optional kit investments. Finally, new training locations will be rolled out across the country later this year to enable more therapists to enrol onto the course.

// November 11–12 Spa Life Hilton Doubletree, Coventry Conference and meetings forum for UK spas and suppliers. 01268 745892 spa-life.eu // November 26-27 International Conference on Dermatology & Cosmetology Holiday Inn Express Kuala Lumpur City Centre, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia +1202 754 8501 bioleagues.com/ dermatology-conference

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Advertorial

ON VISIT US

13 STAND D

HESTER Y, MANC EVENTCIT BER TO C O 4 13-1 2 019

DO YOU WANT TO BECOME

A GUINOT BE AUTY DOCTOR?

19 17/07/20 Guinot is a results-driven, treatment-led and prescription-based luxury skincare brand with over 50 years of experience. Guinot continues to lead the way in treatment and product innovation, achieving outstanding, visible results.

12:26

Guinot treatments and products are prescribed by fully trained Beauty Doctors who understand that professional consultations and skincare education methods are crucial to achieving a client’s beauty goals. As a Beauty Therapist you have the training to offer a service to your clients that will benefit their skin. As a Beauty Doctor you have the knowledge to prescribe the best possible treatment or product to truly treat their skin concerns. Your knowledge is key, so don’t be afraid to share it. Clients develop loyalty when you offer more than just a treatment, but your expert advice too! As a trained Guinot Beauty Doctor you will be taught to recognise their skin concerns and prescribe tailored treatment courses and aftercare routines with proven, beneficial results. The Guinot training team will provide you with tools to overcome sales challenges, manage clients’ changing perceptions and educate the importance of progressive, preventative skincare. Influencing your client’s skincare knowledge will see a direct and positive impact on retail sales, client loyalty and their faith in non-surgical skincare.

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If you’re interested in stocking Guinot in your salon and receiving free training for your therapists to become a Guinot Beauty Doctor please call 01344 873123

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Stay connected @GuinotUKIreland

10/09/2019 12:42

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WRINKLES PUFFINESS AND DARK CIRCLES

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www.skinbrands.co.uk 02/09/2019 11:09

Digital

professional

beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

The Harrogate Spa (@TheHarrogateSpa): Fantastic write up by Professional Beauty on our amazing new luxury spa coming this Autumn.

Hot topic Jolene Young (@JoleneY48364678): Eve Taylor first brought up regulation for our industry in the 60s, yet here we are in 2019 and she’s still saying it in Sept @pro_beauty. SURELY now is the time!

THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you have an active age restriction policy in your spa or salon?

73% YES

27% NO

Should pupils be allowed to wear nail extensions at school or on beauty work placements? Yvonne Webster, owner of The Little Beauty Room, Aberlour, commented: “I agree, no nail enhancements for under 16s and no enhancements for beauty work placements. However, when I was at school, I did wear nail polish – in fact, that’s where my love of nails started. No harm in that at all, as long as it’s neat and tidy.” Shelley Brereton, self-employed nail technician at DivineBelle, Somerset, commented: “Kids under 16 shouldn’t wear extensions full stop, let alone at school. They don’t know how to properly care for their nails and could end up doing permanent damage. My insurance doesn’t even allow extensions on under 16s.” Trudy Bailey, beauty therapist, commented: “I can see both points. The mother asked permission and it was granted, it should have then been made clear that they were to be removed for said placement. However, the mother should also know that when you attend a beauty course you are not to have anything on the nail (even basic polish) for safety reasons.” Adele Gurduk, part-time visiting lecturer and owner of RMH Health, Barnet, commented: “With my Lecturer hat on, all students need to have short nails without polish, gel or acrylic as clients can be allergic to any of these products – let alone the damage you can do to the client if you are giving a facial or massage.”

Follow Professional Beauty… and the team: @pro_beauty01 @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @georgeseago @katsjonouchi

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Social Surgery

THE NEW

word mouth of

As surveys show customers trust online reviews almost as much as personal recommendations, PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin gives tips on improving your online rating

e’re always likely to value a word of mouth

of view. A business that proudly shows off lots of high-

recommendation from friends or family, but

ranked reviews online is much more likely to get their

in our increasingly digital society, the impact

attention than one with too few, or that’s hiding them

of online reviews is also on the rise. A 2018

survey by SEO specialist BrightLocal revealed

away. Making it easy for potential customers to feel confident in your business is a quick and easy win.

that 86% of customers now read online reviews

for local businesses and 78% trust these as

Online reviews: dos and don’ts

much as personal recommendations. It’s an

Obviously, if you’re not already asking your customers

impressive statistic, particularly given there’s now more

to leave you reviews online then you should start doing

awareness of “bots” and “fake” reviews skewing numbers.

so. But if you are – and you’re not getting results – then consider which of your customers you’re asking to do this.

Knowing your search results

86% of all customers say they would consider leaving a

With so many customers looking online for reviews before

review, but the demographics of those who actually do

they visit a business, you need to be aware of what they’re

leave them are very different. 80% of 18-34-year-olds say

seeing when they search for your company. In fact, many

they have left a review for a business – while only 41% of

salons and spas have remarkably similar results. Typically,

those aged 55-plus have done so. Regularly encouraging

you’ll find a couple of links through to your website,

younger age groups to leave reviews, therefore, may be

followed by social media profiles – usually, Facebook and

more rewarding than older ones.

Instagram. If you’ve set your company up on the Google

One thing you must never do is harass your customers

My Business feature, then customers should see more

in to leaving reviews – a comment that reads “I was

information on your salon at the side of the screen.

asked to leave this” won’t entice many new customers.

In these search results, Facebook and Google make

Similarly, be careful about “bribing” people in to

your reviews (both the number and the average star

leaving reviews with perks or competitions. Facebook’s

rating) very visible. In addition, Google will often show

Community Standards strictly rule out encouraging

snippets of comments from your reviewers – giving an

content “under false pretences”. If your customers flood

instant recommendation for your business.

your page with reviews that suggest you’ve pushed them

It’s because these features are so visible that they are

there for their own gain, they could be flagged and harm

so important, and why you should be taking advantage

your page. They’re also unlikely to be thoughtful reviews,

of them to the fullest. Think of it from a consumer’s point

and therefore would be no real benefit to your business. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/09/2019 11:02

CRYSTAL CLEAR COMCIT - ELITE THE SECRET GUIDE TO RED CARPET SKIN

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It has become our most talked about skin treatment, COMCIT treats ageing, dehydrated skin, acne scarring, pigmentation, stretch marks and body treatments with results that are simply staggering and provides an instant, perfect dewy glow for that special occasion, wedding or red carpet event. COMCIT is our most effective skin rejuvenation and rehydration treatment yet, tailored to deliver exactly what your skin needs. Our H20 Glow has fast become a celebrity favourite.

“Iʼve been in the industry 22 years now and I can honestly say this is one of the best treatments on the market! I love seeing the results after just 1 treatment and this is by far my most popular treatment my customers love it! Beatrice, Purity By Beatrice

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Industry Events

Out About

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

3D-HYRO2FACIAL LAUNCH 3D-LIPO HQ, RUGBY Top clinic owners got a sneak peek at 3D-lipo’s latest machine in action when the company hosted a VIP launch event at its Rugby head office and training rooms in September. PB’s editor Eve Oxberry and features editor Georgia Seago were among the guests, who watched demos of the new HydrO2Facial machine, which will have its official launch at Professional Beauty North on October 13–14. They also heard more about the science behind the launch from 3D-lipo managing director Roy Cowley and head of training Joanne Leahy before enjoying lunch and a glass of bubbles. Read more about the device on page 148.

DESTINATION DERMALOGICA COVENT GARDEN, LONDON PB’s deputy editor Amanda Pauley attended the launch of Dermalogica’s three-day pop-up salon in Covent Garden in August – a multisensory space where press and consumers could play with products. Destination Dermalogica was the launchpad for the brand’s new epigenetics-inspired Phyto-Nature Firming Serum, which claims to reduce the appearance of exposome-driven (environment and lifestyle) ageing; but also gave a sneak preview of its Christmas collections. Director of education Sally Penford talked about the science behind the products and led a demonstration on how to use Phyto-Nature in conjunction with a gua sha stone.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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38 Industry Events

INTRACEUTICALS RETOUCH PRESS DAY EPILIUM & SKIN, LONDON Georgia discovered the latest launch from skincare brand Intraceuticals in September. Celebrity facialist and director of Intraceuticals Studio Services Gavin McLeod-Valentine flew over from the US to talk to press about the Retouch kit, a collection of five targeted serums based on Instagram filters and formulated with advanced peptides that are designed to be layered on the skin. After a smoothie and pain au chocolat, Georgia experienced a classic Intraceuticals oxygen infusion facial, followed by application of the serums. Press were gifted with a set of the serums.

LIVNORDIC SPA EXPERIENCE THE VIKING SUN, LONDON PB’s Amanda was one of just three journalists invited to try out LivNordic’s spa experience onboard the Viking Sun ship before it set sail for its ultimate world cruise on Friday, August 30. Docked in Greenwich, London, for just one day, Amanda joined spa manager Lee-Ann Galloway for lunch, before enjoying a tour of the eight-floor cruise ship’s facilities and finishing up in the Scandi-themed LivNordic Spa. Then, operations director Nora Forsberg explained to the group how to use the spa’s hot and cold facilities, which included a cold plunge pool, steam room, dry sauna, snow grotto, hot tub and more. All guests received a goody bag of spa products to take away too.

URBAN RETREAT AT THE WHITE HOUSE PRESS BREAKFAST KNIGHTSBRIDGE, LONDON Led by managing director Reena Hammer, the team behind the newly opened Urban Retreat at The White House hosted a press breakfast and open morning for beauty media, including PB’s Georgia and Eve. With finishing touches in place and all services up and running apart from the bottom floor wellness clinic, guests were introduced to some of the in-house expert practitioners over breakfast, such as pilates instructor Gaby Noble, meditation expert Catherine Turner, dermatologist Timm Golueke, and brow and lash technician Suman Jalaf. Sample press treatments included facials, nail services and piercings. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/09/2019 11:05

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43 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

beauty

On the spot

River Island

With beauty salons up and down the country hitting the headlines for offering services that give back to the local community, many of you are now considering delivering mental and physical wellbeing initiatives in your business. Hosting coffee mornings for clients and staff so they can talk to a professional in a safe setting is proving most popular (32%), followed by offering free beauty workshops for troubled teens (29%) and teaching therapists how to spot the signs of domestic abuse (25%). With brow lamination trending on Instagram – a technique where a client’s brow hairs are brushed up and fixed in place to make them appear thicker – half of you believe it’s set to be the next big thing. Find out which companies will be talking through brow lamination training at Professional Beauty North on page 86. Meanwhile, 54% of you have confessed that you get annoyed when clients tell you they want healthy skin but won’t follow your suggested routine.

Which initiative would you like to run for your local community? 1. Mental wellbeing coffee mornings 2. Free workshops for troubled teens 3. Staff training to spot signs of domestic abuse 4. Teaching beauty to adults with learning disabilities

brow lamination % think will be the next big brow trend

August 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

57% 32% 11% BETTER

Which of these thoughts do you secretly think the most at work? 1. You want healthier skin/nails but don’t follow my recommendations? Hmm. 2. I could easily have a cheeky power nap on this treatment bed 3. Talking to a client and mentally plucking her brows into shape 4. Mentally timing a client who has gone to the toilet pre-intimate wax to know what you’re letting yourself in for

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

51% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

36% 46% 18% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Trends

Insider

spa

On the spot

Matalan

Broadening your menu so you can help clients cope with life-changing events is a top priority in your spas, understanding that your teams can provide a level of care to people at very troubling times. As such, many of you would like to launch an emotional wellbeing retreat focused on reducing burnout and stress (80%), followed by post-cancer recovery (25%), helping clients manage a break-up (20%) and coping with bereavement (20%). Did you know that CBD oil-infused treatments are good for clients with built up tension? Read more about the trend on page 126. Updating your facilities to make sure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re offering the best experience is also important, which is why many of you are thinking of adding to your thermal area. A Himalayan salt sauna (30%) and hammam (20%) are top of your wish-list, but many are also interested in a mud rasul chamber (15%) as the treatment experiences a resurgence in popularity.

Which type of emotional wellbeing workshop would you like to add to your menu? 1. Stress/burnout reduction 2. Post-cancer recovery 3. Break-up retreats 4. Coping with bereavement

August 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

65% 15% 20% BETTER

85 %

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

think mobile phones should be banned in spas

52% Which facility would you most like to add to your thermal area? 1. Himalayan salt sauna 2. Hammam 3. Mud rasul chamber 4. Plunge pool

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

35% BETTER

45%

20% WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/09/2019 11:07

Adhesive System

FREE MINI SAMPLE OF

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Claim yours at Professional Beauty North! Visit us on Stand F34 13th & 14th Oct 2019 or go to bit.ly/lpcureit to claim online. 1 per customer. Offer valid for 2g bottle while stock lasts.

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Insider

nails

With autumn just around the corner, many of you have reported that clients are already starting to switch from bright, pastel colours to deeper, richer hues, more in line with the coming season. Plummy red is the most popular shade (57%), with earthy brown (21%), navy blue (7%) and cranberry-coral (7%) also being requested. This uptake is reflected in your treatment business, which is up on last year’s figures. Making sure that the industry is recognised and respected is a top priority for you and your techs, which is why you say there are clear challenges that need to be addressed. Your top concern is online academies offering cheap nail courses that claim to teach all the skills with no face-to-face tutoring (39%), but you’re also worried about non-standard salons damaging the industry’s reputation (32%) and colleges teaching outdated techniques, which means techs aren’t always employer-ready. Read the latest nail news on page 129.

On the spot Which nail shade do you think will be most popular with clients this autumn/winter? 1. Plummy red 2. Earthy brown 3. Navy blue 4. Cranberry-coral

Miss Selfridge

Business Trends

August 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

54% 36% 10 %

57%

BETTER

feel betrayed when a regular client has their nails done elsewhere

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK

What is the biggest problem in the nail industry? 1. Dodgy online academies offering cheap nail courses 2. Non-standard salons damaging the industry’s reputation 3. Outdated techniques being taught at college 4. Lack of innovation in the industry

METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email from August 29 to September 9, regarding business for the month to August 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

SAME

28 HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2019 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2018?

46% 29% 25% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

043-046 PBOCT19 Insider.indd 46

11/09/2019 11:09

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PB Awards 2020

Timeto shine

Entries for the Professional Beauty Awards 2020 open in October. Nowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your chance to get national recognition for your business

ith both regional and national categories combined in one major standalone event, the Professional Beauty Awards 2020 is set to be bigger than ever. Entries open soon, so make sure you register your interest now. Entering is free and winners take home more than a trophy; previous awards winners have reported a huge increase in bookings, press coverage and staff morale.

The event For 2020, the awards will be a standalone summer event, completely separate from the exhibitions or the World Spa & Wellness Awards. Taking place at London Hilton on Park Lane on June 28, 2020, the event will begin with a round-table Salon & Spa Connect conference-style afternoon networking event, allowing finalists to meet in an informal setting and share challenges and solutions. The evening part of the event will see winners announced at a glamorous black-tie dinner, featuring a drinks reception and three-course meal followed by professional entertainment.

The categories Regional categories Midlands & North West Salon of the Year Midlands & North West Spa of the Year North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Salon of the Year North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Spa of the Year South East Salon of the Year

South East Spa of the Year South West & Wales Salon of the Year South West & Wales Spa of the Year National categories Boutique Salon of the Year* Large Salon of the Year* Boutique Spa of the Year* Large Spa of the Year* NEW: Spa/Salon Leader of the Year NEW: Spa/Salon Team of the Year Nail Salon of the Year Therapist of the Year Employer of the Year * National spa and salon categories cannot be entered directly. The winners of these four categories will be the highest scorers from all relevant regional categories

How to enter Entries open at the end of October, 2019, at professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards Before then, you can register your interest at professionalbeauty.co.uk/awardsregister to be alerted as soon as entries open. PB

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05/09/2019 12:24

Ward’s World

Better the

DEVIL you

KNOW?

If a long-serving member of staff leaves but later wants to return to your salon, there are many reasons it could be in both your interests to reconcile, writes HELLEN WARD

member of our senior team, who is now in her early 40s, started with us as a 16-year-old doing work experience while still at school. She then became a Saturday girl, did an apprenticeship and has been an accomplished operator ever since, this year receiving her 25-year service award. That’s something to be extremely proud of, as we both are. However, when it comes to her experience of salon life, you could accuse her of being firmly encased in the Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa (RW) bubble. She only knows our workplace; she’s never worked anywhere else, like lots of our staff. In this people-focused business, this is a lucrative commodity. Our clients love the fact that in this fast-paced world, the salon is one environment where (to paraphrase the US sitcom Cheers) everybody knows their name.

Perhaps it’s a simple need to flee the nest to see what’s out there. They say if you love somebody, set them free. If they come back they’re yours for good, and if they don’t they were never yours in the first place. It’s very much like that with staff. We’ve recently taken back three team members who left but soon found that the grass wasn’t greener. That’s hugely satisfying for both the employee and the employer. It vindicates the benefits of staying put to anyone else thinking they might want to spread their wings, but also sends out a clear message: employment isn’t counted as continuous so all accrued benefits reset to zero if they do leave and come back. So, is that saying “better the devil you know” always true? Sometimes a team member leaves and it feels like a fresh, cleansing breeze is sweeping through the salon, healing and re-energising the team. Conversely, somebody’s absence can find you remembering only the positives; a clear indication that you’d both be happier to reconcile. If you find yourself fishing around for information on whether they’re happy, it can be a sign that you both need to embrace the fact that nobody, no job and no salon is perfect, and maybe you’d both be happier to get back to where you were. The break can lead to some clarity on both sides. I’m never too proud to make the move and be the bigger person if I find that’s how I’m feeling, because we can all benefit from the experience as a team. PB

The work environment, colleagues and friends play a huge part in why people decide to stay or leave

Full package I’d love to pontificate on our staff retention levels and take all the credit for being the reason people want to stay with us. But the facts speak for themselves – it’s not just about what type of employer you are or the money you offer; the work environment, colleagues and friends play a huge part in why people decide to stay or leave. Many people meet their partners through work, and our intricate staff family tree has seen three marriages and two babies, not to mention the relationships, siblings and cousins that form part of our extended family. Factor in these and there are several more RW happy endings to include. Of course, sometimes people leave, but often they later want to come back.

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Beauty Federation (NBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Tips

ask

the EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

How can I help my new therapists overcome the most common waxing problems? Here are my solutions to four of the most common waxing problems that I see students and new waxers struggling with: 1. Wax where you don’t want it: Accidental drips and dribbles on the body can be banished easily with a splash of oil. Apply generously, then either wipe with a clean paper strip or twist the hair between your fingers to loosen the wax. Repeat until all stickiness has disappeared. 2. Wax left on the skin when the paper strip is removed: This usually happens because the wax has gone cold – either the client’s skin is too cool or the wax has been applied too thickly. To solve the problem, apply strip wax in thin, single layers to avoid build-up and work in smaller sections if this keeps happening. If the problem is due to dry skin, massage a few drops of oil into the area before applying your wax to act as a lipid barrier. Always ensure the skin is held taut during application and removal, especially on areas with folds such as the upper thighs, bikini line and underarms. Don’t be afraid to ask your client to help with stretching where necessary. Don’t “dab” to remove waxy residue as this is uncomfortable for clients. Lay a fresh paper strip over the top at a slightly different angle, rub briskly and remove in a single swift motion. As a last resort, use oil to dissolve any sticky bits, re-cleanse and start again. 3. Peelable wax won’t set: If your hot wax is taking too long to set on warmer parts of the body or in humid weather, simply dampen a cotton pad with cold water and wipe over any gummy patches to cool and harden it instantly.

4. Short, stubborn hairs: Clients should wait at least three weeks after shaving or using hair removal creams, and four weeks after their last wax, to get best results. To remove multiple stubborn hairs, use firm pressure, apply a layer of peelable wax against the direction of hair growth and allow to dry. Stretching the skin taut, lift and remove wax with the direction of growth in several slow, tiny wiggles, re-bracing the skin at every step of the way to stop shorter hairs popping out of the wax.

“Wax Daddy” Andy Rouillard is owner of Axiom Bodyworks men’s salon in Basingstoke. He will speak on a panel discussing waxing FAQs on the How To stage at PB North.

This month’s experts will all speak at Professional Beauty North at EventCity Manchester on October 13–14. To book any live stage or seminar session for just £3 (£1 for students) visit professionalbeauty.co.uk/livestages professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/09/2019 11:16

60 Business Tips

What are the benefits of adding mesotherapy to my treatment menu?

How can I help my clients manage the symptoms of menopause? The best place to start is by educating your team. Many of us know nothing about the menopause. There are around 34 symptoms, and menopausal clients could be experiencing any of them at different stages. There are a few things you may notice just by looking at your client, especially if she is a regular. Her hair may become more brittle, or her skin could start to break out. This happened to me, I was using the same products I had been using for years, keeping the same routine, then one day my skin began to break out and I had no idea why. With all the hormonal changes happening within the body, menopausal women might need totally different treatments or products than they’ve required in the past, and, in my opinion, the more natural the products, the better. It’s really important to talk to your client and find out what she needs on the day of her appointment. If a woman is experiencing hot flushes, for example, the last thing she may want is a facial, or a face mask that’s going to make her feel even hotter. I may not be an expert on the beauty industry, but I do strongly believe that more can be done in a salon setting to support menopausal women. The menopause can make women feel terrible at times, Meg Matthews is an events so having somewhere to go planner and designer. She’s that they can relax, take their now become an advocate for the menopause and is the mind off things, and just feel founder of MegsMenopause. a little more looked after for a Hear her speak on the Natural & few hours can make the world Holistic Stage at PB North. of difference.

Mesotherapy or bio-revitalisation is an incredible, results-orientated treatment. Mesotherapy involves the delivery of various elements such as plant extracts, homeopathic agents, amino acids, pharmaceuticals, vitamins, and other bioactive substances into the skin. Singularly, or in combination, these products are placed superficially in minute doses and can stimulate cell metabolism, increase the production of collagen, and promote the body’s circulatory lymphatic and immune systems to create a biological response. This results in firmer and more nourished skin and can also work on improving hydration, hair loss and cellulite. Though usually associated with an injection, mesotherapy can be delivered in many different ways such as needling, peels, dermabrasion and electrical devices like electroporation. Delivered in sterile vials, the product’s molecular weight is small enough to penetrate deep into the skin, though one must make sure that the product is CE registered for injection and not for topical use only. Mesotherapy used in combination can really boost the results of existing treatments. This is one of the most popular protocols I teach, due to the incredible results achieved, and also the amount of clinical data surrounding it.

Andrew Hansford is director of Fusion Aesthetic Academy and Global Education Ambassador for Fillmed. See his seminar on mesotheraphy and bio revitalization as part of the Aesthetic Therapist Agenda at PB North.

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Business Tips

How can I work towards eliminating single-use plastics in my spa?

How can I use social media to turn my customers into brand ambassadors? This is one of the questions I get asked most often by salon and spa owners. In my experience, there are five key ways to improve your chances: 1. Be different: Give people a reason to want to tell others about you. Why should they risk their reputation by helping you grow your business? 2. Be known: Make sure your target market knows you. Work out where they congregate online and make sure you have a presence there. 3. Be present: Get involved in the conversation your target market is having. Serve them and help them achieve their relevant objectives. 4. Be worth it: As a business, try to be awesome in at least one major way. Which one thing can you be known for above everyone else in your space? 5. Be grateful: Give thanks and recognition where you can. Take your fans on your journey, recognise them, reward them and they may well love you back. Getting your customers to care about growing your business is hard work. After all, why should they help you for free? What’s in it for them? You need to make it as easy as possible for them by giving them reasons, opportunities, reminders, recognition and rewards, then more of them will support you. It’s not an overnight thing, though. We’re all cynical about this kind of stuff, so be Al Tepper runs marketing heartfelt, stay patient and true. agency TepFu. Hear his talk, Turning customers into brand Slowly, but surely, more customers ambassadors using social will come onboard and become media, on the Digital Stage brand ambassadors for your at PB North. business.

As with everything in business, you must start with the why. What are your brand values and how does reducing your plastic usage fall in line with these? Most spas have wellness and care at the heart of their ethos, which in my view needs to extend well beyond the treatment room. Change is difficult, so getting your team and core mission aligned with the wider zero-waste conversation will help set you up for success. Strive for progress over perfection. Many businesses get disheartened by being unable to commit to total elimination in one fell swoop. Run an inventory of your current single-use plastics and set incremental targets that allow for a steady progress towards eliminating them all together. By far the biggest culprit in our industry is packaging so this is the best place to start. There are many suppliers who will now give you recyclable packaging and help educate you on the packaging world. When I opened Uniquely Organic EcoSpa over nine years ago, awareness around the environmental impact of the beauty industry was scarce. Thankfully there’s now an abundance of information at our fingertips. Don’t go this alone, instead use this as an opportunity to join forces with local campaigners and other local ethical businesses who share your commitment for sustainability and change.

Kirsty Kianifard is founder of Uniquely Organic Ecospa in Hove and a wellnesss business coach. See her talk on How to become a sustainable salon on the Trend Watch Stage at PB North.

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66 Business Tips

How can I increase my prices without losing any clients?

I’m interested in offering dermaplaning. What’s the science behind it? Dermaplaning is a highly effective, physical exfoliation procedure that uses a sterile, surgical scalpel to remove the non-living skin cells that comprise the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. It differs from popular superficial exfoliation techniques such as chemical peels and microdermabrasion in that it uses no chemicals, crystals or suction. Dermaplaning also removes vellus hair; the fine, downy peach fuzz which harbours oil and dirt, causing the skin to look dull. Dermaplaning brightens the complexion, reduces congestion and allows for deeper penetration of skincare products. Vellus-free skin also facilitates smoother make-up application. It can be performed monthly, in line with the cellular renewal process of a healthy skin. As we age, this process slows down and regular dermaplaning treatment can help to speed it up. However, Dermaplaning is not recommended for acneic or oily skins as the vellus hair serves to allow excess sebum to exit the follicle. An important factor to consider in dermaplaning is that although the stratum corneum is essentially non-living, it does perform a vital protective function. It acts as the first line of defence against the external environment, protecting the body from bacteria, UV and free radicals. It also binds in natural moisture, preventing it from escaping and keeping skin hydrated. It is therefore crucial to keep skin well balanced, nurturing it post-treatment to prevent transepidermal water loss, sensitivity or other barrier Jacqueline Naeini is clinical function issues. Clients should director of Cliniva Medispa avoid exfoliants, harsh products and Cliniva Cosmetic Training, and potential irritants such as which offers dermaplaning courses. She will speak on soaps or wipes, and use products dermaplaning as part of the designed for strengthening the Advanced Treatments Stage skin barrier. SPF application is at PB North. essential.

When it comes to increasing prices, the most common thing I notice among salon owners is the fear factor. They often think, “If I put my prices up, clients are going to run for the hills”. However, your customers are coming to you because they see value in what you offer. A small price hike shouldn’t really have that great of an impact. In general, suppliers are putting prices up, quite significantly in some cases, and staff wages are going up too, so to not put your prices up is detrimental to your business. You’ve got to generate enough money to upskill your team and you’ve got to have the cash to be able to invest in your business. In most cases, clients understand that a price increase is inevitable. Generally, your prices should increase at least once a year. The biggest mistake I see is salon owners following the pricing structure of competitors. Every business has different overheads, so this method just doesn’t work. You need to look at your own bottom line instead. It’s important to explain the price hike with confidence when communicating with clients, rather than in an apologetic manner, which makes clients react negatively. If they can see all the great things you are doing, and that your focus is investing in the business, they are much more likely to react positively.

Susan Routledge is a business consultant and owner of Finishing Touches salon in County Durham. Hear her talk on how to increase prices without losing clients on the Business Skills stage at PB North.

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11/09/2019 11:18

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22/08/2019 17:27

71 Interview

Talking to...

Annabel Maginnis The founder of Instagram-worthy nail salon and supplies brand Nails by Annabel tells Amanda Pauley how she made it big on social media, cementing her reputation as a nail influencer

ail tech Annabel Maginnis is a social media success story, opening fairy tale-themed salon Nails by Annabel in Newcastle-under-Lyme and launching her own brand of acrylic and gel systems off the back of her online profile. Her reputation as a nail influencer can’t be denied, with an impressive 31K YouTube subscribers, 408K Instagram followers and 146K Facebook followers (as PB went to press). After undertaking extensive training with award-winning tech Kirsty Meakin six years ago and becoming her apprentice, Maginnis began her career in nails, starting off home-based before renting a space in a business centre for a couple of years as she built up her clientele.

However, her reputation really took off when she posted a photo on Instagram of a standout nail and make-up look she created – silver painted lips adorned with Swarovski crystals, accompanied with a full set of pure glass nails, also covered in crystals (pictured, next page). “This photo is when things really changed for me,” said Maginnis. “The image got shared by a lot of large nail and make-up accounts on Instagram, including Brian Champagne who is a pro MUA with one million followers. It gave me massive exposure. That image is how I got my name out there and it’s why I use a lot of Swarovski crystals on my nail sets today.” >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Interview

From there, her social media profile grew as more make-up artists, nail techs and clients followed her. With her success showing no signs of slowing down, Maginnis’s husband Elliott (managing director of Nails by Annabel) encouraged her to open her own permanent salon, followed by a nail supplies business. “The idea of owning a space and employing other techs terrified me. I was like, ‘No, I don’t know if I can do it. What if it doesn’t work?’. It was only when one of my regular clients revealed that she was a trained nail tech and would love to work for me that I took the plunge and opened my first salon, Annabel’s, in Newcastle-under-Lyme in 2017,” explains Maginnis.

Hitting the big time

“Elliott and I only launched with a small selection of core acrylic powders and monomers though – no colours – because we wanted to see if there was an appetite for the range. I was shocked when we got 21 orders on the first day.” From there, the company launched more extensive Glitterbels acrylic and gel systems, Nails by Annabel Swarovski Crystals, pigment powders, brush sets and branded t-shirts, and the tech says that there are even more products in the pipeline waiting to be developed. Now, the team manages on average 3,000 orders per month and this has been the greatest challenge for Maginnis. “Blowing up on social media helped me make the business a success but it’s been tough managing the rate of growth in such a short time,” she explains.

In this day and age, your salon space and nail pictures need to be worthy of the ’gram

In 2018, the entrepreneur launched her nail supplies company under the name Nails by Annabel to take her business to the next level. “We already had a dedicated audience of nail techs on social media who we could sell the products to, so it felt like a logical step to move into manufacturing supplies,” she says.

“I wasn’t expecting my collection to be so popular. As such, stock levels were an issue to start with because we only had so much to hand, yet the list of people wanting to purchase the products was growing rapidly.” During this time, Maginnis also opened her second nail salon, Belle’s, in the same area.

Strike a pose

Clockwise from top: The photo that changed Maginnis’s career, the Nails by Annabel salon

Riding high on her success, Maginnis made a big business decision at the start of this year – to merge her two salons at a larger premises to create a space that matched her successful nail supplies business. The 5,000sq ft Nails by Annabel salon opened on Lower Street in May and is an Instagram haven, with gold-painted trees and a unicorn statue complementing the millennial pink painted walls. The space features cool nail stations, a dedicated training space and a retail shop filled with her eponymous range. >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/09/2019 11:30

Interview

“In this day and age, your salon space and nail pictures need to be worthy of the ‘gram,” she says. “How you photograph your nails is one of the most important things because without careful placing of the hand, teamed with decent lighting, people won’t be able to see the detail in your work. “You also need to take your pictures against a background that isn’t too busy, so as not to detract from your nail design. I use a fluffy white bath mat as it goes with every set of nails and I shoot the photos using my iPhone and Daylight Company Desk Lamp.” Maginnis also suggests watermarking your images, “because if a big account shares your work and forgets to include your handle in the caption then clients won’t know it’s your design”. The timing of your posts is even more crucial. “You need to do at least one post per day to your grid feed but schedule them to go live at around 7–8pm. This is prime time as most people will be home from work so you’ll get more likes and engagement,” she says. “For your Instagram Stories, post throughout the day but use a mixture of content, from product videos and mini tutorials to updates on salon life.” This month, Maginnis is launching the Nails by Annabel educator programme for techs

who want to become an ambassador for the brand. She is looking for 18 to 20 educators to perform the brand’s training across the UK, with those tutors having access to refresher courses – to brush up their skills – at Nails by Annabel HQ on average every two months. “To have educators all over the country is our biggest goal and I want the best people representing us – they need to have a dedicated space where they can host our training, a few years’ industry experience under their belt, and have the appropriate qualifications to teach,” explains Maginnis.

The future’s bright The brand is looking to run more educator training in the new year as it plans to expand its family of ambassadors, and Maginnis is even thinking about hosting an Annabel Masterclass Roadshow in the future “because the brand is moving so fast. I want to be out there more, but the idea hasn’t been fleshed out yet,” she adds. Nails by Annabel will also be exhibiting at Professional Beauty North, taking place on October 13–14, for the first time as the brand looks to get further exposure. “Quite a few of our accounts attend Professional Beauty so we’re looking forward to meeting them, but we’re also hoping to demo products to a range of new customers too.” Find out what Nails by Annabel will be bringing to PB North on page 96. PB

KEY DATES 2013 Maginnis trains with award-winning tech Kirsty Meakin and starts working from home 2017 Opens first nail salon, Annabel’s, in Newcastleunder-Lyme 2018 Launches nail supplies range Nails by Annabel and opens second salon Belle’s 2019 Merges her two salons into one, rebranded as Nails by Annabel, and launches the brand’s educator programme 2020 Nails by Annabel will be looking to take on more educators

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VISIT US ON STAND F29

EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019

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EYE CREAM

Brighten your eyes! Luxurious hydrating and brightening eye cream contains caffeine and white flower extracts to help increase circulation, reduce dark circles and under eye puffiness.

To stock ApraiseÂŽ in your salon or spa, find a local stockist at www.apraise.co.uk

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11/06/2019 09:40

Hot Topic

CAN YOU

refuse

to PERFORM an INTIMATE

wax?

With some Canadian therapists being prosecuted after refusing to wax a trans woman’s male genitals, debate has been rife about when a therapist can say no to an intimate wax. Wax specialist Sam Marshall weighs in

ith Jessica Yaniv (a male-to-female transgender woman) recently filing a human rights complaint against a series of Canadian beauty salons after therapists refused to perform a Brazilian wax when they realised she had male genitalia, the question of whether a waxer has the right to refuse an intimate treatment has been hotly debated. Yet, this story is not the first of its kind and it’s unlikely to be the last. Some of the accused therapists have responded, citing that they lacked the training required for waxing male genitals or that they were not comfortable doing so for religious reasons. I’d like to think that if this situation happened in a UK salon then the client wouldn’t be able to sue as easily because we have the right to say, “this therapist doesn’t wax male genitalia” – it’s not saying that the therapist doesn’t wax men, just that she isn’t trained to wax the penis shaft and scrotum. The therapist has to be able to say no if they are not equipped to carry out the treatment because the client’s safety has to come first. For me, this issue isn’t about which gender somebody identifies as, it’s about the waxer being comfortable handling someone’s genitalia, and this is a very personal thing. Apart from doctors and nurses, beauty therapists are the only professionals who handle people’s bodies in such an intimate way.

However, once you’ve trained in male intimate waxing and publicise that you do it then you can’t turn down a pre-operative (pre-op) trans woman who has male genitals. This would be deemed as “transphobic” and you would be breaking the law because of the Equality Act. Let me give you an example: a pre-op trans woman looking for an intimate waxing treatment went to a male waxing specialist near Newcastle. The waxer refused to treat her because she identified as a woman, even though she had male genitalia. In this situation, why wouldn’t you treat the pre-op trans woman when you’re educated and equipped to do so? It’s wrong.

This issue isn’t about which gender somebody identifies as, it’s about the waxer being comfortable handling someone’s genitalia

Sticky situation

I guess the big question is, how can the industry decrease the likelihood of these situations arising? There’s been a lot of talk online about whether waxing treatment names need to be changed to meet modern society’s needs. Instead of “male” and “female” intimate wax, why not make it obvious what the treatment is with names like “shaft and scrotum wax” and “labia wax”? That way your client knows exactly what to book in for and the therapist knows exactly what they’re dealing with. The treatment name issue is something I’ve experienced with my own customers, >

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Hot Topic

too. My pre-op male-to-female trans clients used to always book in for male intimate waxing and it was something I wanted to address because none of them should have to book anything that says “male”, it’s not fair. On my menu, I now have a separate Brazilian/ Hollywood wax treatment with a “(T*)” next to it. This signals to my trans clients that this treatment is for them, making the booking process easier. It also leaves no room for confusion. I’ve also got a page on my website about trans beauty which showcases to clients that we’re an inclusive space. It’s important to be this transparent because trans clients tend to search online for treatments rather than popping into salons on the high street to enquire.

and comfortable to handle them as to whether you can treat them or not. If you decide you’re going to do male intimate waxing from your home then you’ve got to have safeguarding protocols in place – get all the client’s personal details up front, let a friend know when they are coming to your house and try to have someone else (like a family member) in the building with you. I once had a male client send me a video of him enjoying his bits and pieces after an intimate waxing treatment, so this dodgy stuff does happen. I know of another waxer who received an email from a client who told her that during the treatment he had some semen leak out the end of his penis and liked it. It’s not fair that waxers have to experience these things but they do happen, so precaution has to be taken to stay safe. There’s lots of professional waxing chats on Facebook that can provide you with support. I know of one where UK waxers share partial details of dodgy clients who have acted inappropriately before, during or after treatment. Remember, there’s a network of waxers out there waiting to help you. PB

It’s not fair that waxers have to experience these things but they do happen, so precaution has to be taken to stay safe

Being smart and safe The other big issue these court cases bring up is the question of therapist safety. Some of the people being sued in Canada are home-based therapists and they refused to perform the treatment because they choose to only see female clients. The issue may have been that they questioned their personal safety, which is why they refused the treatment, which again comes back to the genitalia you’re presented with. There’s such a fine line with this situation because if I was home-based and I said I only wanted to treat women, in theory that should include trans women. However, it’s difficult because it’s basically down to what genitals the client has and whether you’re trained

Sam Marshall is owner of The Beauty Guru in Manchester and an intimate waxing specialist.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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VISIT US ON STAND K34

EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019

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A Solution for Every Skin

Every Face is Unique Precisely why any facial skin treatment should be too. 3JUVE is an entirely customisable treatment which uses 3 market-leading skin rejuvenation technologies in one stand-alone platform, providing a skin solution for every client.

Resurface -

Wrinkles, Lines & Skin

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Remodel - Facial Skin Lifting & Tightening

Courtesy of Laser Skin Solutions

Search 3JUVE or call today | 01477 536 977

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Show &TELL A mixture of up-and-coming and established artists will be demoing a wide breadth of male barbering skills.

SPA & SALON CONNECT Salon and spa owners can share business challenges and solutions in this roundtable networking forum.

HJ LIVE

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NAILS, TANNING, NAILS, TANNING, LASHESLASHES & SUPPLIES & SUPPLIES

SKINCARE, SKINCARE, EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT & ADVANCED & ADVANCED TREATMENT TREA

Spa Brands Spa Brands

Champagne Champagne Bar Bar

Cafe Cafe 1 1

Match- MatchSpa & Spa Salon & Salon making making Connectors Connectors Lounge Lounge

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Enjoy a glass of bubbly and take the weight off your feet at this luxurious bar.

NAILS, TANNING, NAILS, TANNING, LASHESLASHES & SUPPLIES & SUP

The hottest trends and topics will be covered, including sustainability, CBD treatments and vegan beauty.

CHAMPAGNE BAR

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E F

D E

Backstage Backstage

Trend Trend Watch Watch

Lash artists, MUAs and nail techs will be competing to be named the best in their field.

NEW: TREND WATCH STAGE

Lash,Lash, Makeup Makeup & Nails & Nails Competition Competition AreasAreas

PB NORTH CHAMPIONSHIPS

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WARPAINT

NEW: MODERN BARBER STAGE

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Are you coming to Professional Beauty North at EventCity Manchester on October 13â&#x20AC;&#x201C;14? Check out these key features to get the most out of your day

Backstage

WARPAINT

Professional Beauty North 2019

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RETAIL RETAIL SALON SALON GIFTS GIFTS

ckstage

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Professional Beauty North 2019

Natural Natural & & Holistic Holistic

NEW: NATURAL & HOLISTIC STAGE

Show Show Restaurant Restaurant & Café & Café

Learn about natural skincare and how to authentically add holistic treatments to your menu.

DigitalDigital SkillsSkills

BUSINESS BUSINESS TRAINING TRAINING & RECRUITMENT & RECRUITMENT

DIGITAL SKILLS STAGE

NAILS, TANNING, NAILS, TANNING, LASHES LASHES & SUPPLIES & SUPPLIES

Business Business SkillsSkills

Learn how to get your business more exposure on social media and what content is guaranteed to increase your reach. H

L M

EXEC CLUB LOUNGES

Exec Exec Club Club Lounge Lounge 3 3

Free refreshments will be served at the lounges all day for Exec Club members, with a special drinks reception at 3pm.

SHES NG, LASHES & SUPPLIES & SUPPLIES

NEW: AESTHETIC THERAPIST AGENDA H

L M

Exhibitor Exhibitor Lounge Lounge

Education programme for aesthetic therapists split into four sections – skin, advanced treatments, equipment, and careers and education.

Advanced Advanced Treatments Treatments Stage Stage

How To How To StageStage

REGISTRATION

NCED ADVANCED TREATMENTS TREATMENTS 119 seats

119 seats

L M

119 seats

Info Point

119 seats

Info Organisers Organisers Point Office Office

Registration Registration

TBP

Store

Storage

Advanced Advanced Therapists Therapists StageStage

Enter the show here, but remember, if you don’t register for your free ticket online in advance you’ll have to pay £20 on the door.

Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. Get your free ticket at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register

TBP

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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FOR BEAUTY THERAPISTS, NAIL TECHNICIANS, HAIRDRESSERS & SALON OWNERS

For students working their way towards a hair, nail or beauty qualification For just £20 per year

For beauty therapists From £52.50 per year

www.professionalbeautydirect.co.uk

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For hairdressers and hair stylists From £42.50 per year

For nail technicians From £39.50 per year

For beauty, nail and hair salon owners From £124 per year

In association with Professional Beauty Direct Contact the team: T: 0345 605 8670 E: info@professionalbeautydirect.co.uk

Follow us PBDirectIns professionalbeautydirect Professional Beauty Direct is a trading name of InEvexco Ltd, 2019. InEvexco Limited is authorised and regulated by the FCA, registered number 579079

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Professional Beauty North 2019

Trend

SPOTTING

With many brands choosing Professional Beauty North as a launch pad for new products, the show is a key place to spot trends for the year ahead. Here’s what’s in store at EventCity on October 13–14 SKINCARE Advanced Nutrition Programme will launch Skin Moisture Lock on IIAA stand F21. The anti-ageing supplement fuses hyaluronic acid and ceramides in one formulation.

On E16, Elemis will showcase new Superfood Boosters with prebiotic properties, including Cica Calm, formulated to treat sensitive skin and reduce redness, and AHA Glow, aimed at lacklustre skin.

Vegan skincare brand Buddha Beauty will showcase its Dermaplane Balm Range on A27, with scents including lavender, frankincense and rose. Dermalogica will tailor opening orders for new accounts on stand D18, as well as giving exclusive offers, treatment demos, and showcasing new products Prism Protect SPF30, Age Bright Spot Fader and Phyto-Nature Firming Serum.

IIAA will showcase Environ’s latest freestanding merchandising unit on F21. It’s equipped with dimmable LEDs to display the products in their best light.

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Eve Taylor will launch its Rejuvenating Aromatic Serum No6 on stand D11, supporting loss of elasticity and texture in post-menopausal skin with clary sage, galbanum, patchouli and argan oils. Guinot will introduce its Eye Lifting treatment at D13, targeting sagging eyelids, wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles with a draining massage, muscle stimulation and eye mask. Head to B20 to see Image Skincare’s range, including the I Mask collection, containing a Purifying Probiotic Mask and Firming Transformation Mask. Get your hands on Janssen Cosmetics Golden Glow Seasonal Winter Treatment kit, which contains a gold-infused peel-off mask, massage gel and firming serum, on D17.

Professional Beauty North 2019

87 Dermaplane UK will exhibit cosmetic range Million Dollar Glow as well as other tools and skincare products on H74. The brand is offering 10% off all courses booked at the show. Visitors can enjoy a 15% discount on Narian’s Rosehip Day Serum, which protects skin against the signs of premature ageing. Buy it on A24. Payot will launch the Rose Lift Collagène range at D19, as well as offering Payot partner opening orders from £750, and a £582 starter pack with an account opening of £1,500. The Pevonia team will talk through its partner support programme on D12. There will be show offers too, such as spend £2,500 on your first opening order and get £250 of marketing materials and an additional 10% of free product. >

TREND WATCH | SUPER SERUMS

LA Skincare will bring starter packs to treat hormonal issues in the skin on stand E10. There will also be a demonstration of the brand’s chocolate mask.

Serums are being transformed into must-have hero products thanks to new innovations in formulations and delivery systems, giving clients a much more targeted and personalised approach to their modern-day skincare needs. Exciting developments in this arena include Elemis’s two Superfood Boosters Cica Calm and AHA Glow, which contain prebiotic properties to calm sensitised and lacklustre skin; as well as SBC’s Green Caviar Perfecting Serum, which contains “superfood of the sea” green caviar packed with amino acids to boost collagen production. Meanwhile, Eve Taylor’s Rejuvenating Aromatic Serum No6 supports post-menopausal skin by aiding skin elasticity and texture with clary sage, galbanum, argan and rosehip seed oils.

Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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110 PRE SET PROGRAMS Including: n

Facial Toning

Lines / Wrinkles

Eye Bags

Skin Hydration

Skin Peeling

Exfoliation

Jowl Lifting

Acne / Blemishes

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WIN A CACI SYNERGY SYSTEM WORTH £15,000 AT PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NORTH

courtesy of

Last year’s winner told us

“To win was overwhelming. We’ve been working with the brand for over 20 years and it’s never let us down. It will mean we can give our clients even better, longer lasting results.” Sara Shoemark, Owner, Glow Salon

ONE LUCKY VISITOR WILL WIN How to enter: 1. Register for your free ticket to Professional Beauty North at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/wincaci with promo code WINCACI 2. Attend the show on 13-14 October at Event City, Manchester 3. Have your badge scanned on CACI stand F12 The winner will be announced at 3pm on Monday 14 October on CACI stand F12. T&Cs apply. For more information visit www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/cacicomp

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Professional Beauty North 2019

Hair and skincare brand Vilana Natural Beauty is offering visitors 20% off all products bought at the show. See the range on B30.

DEVICES 3D-lipo will launch 3D-HydrO2Facial on J12, a machine that can perform anti-ageing, brightening and clearing facials using multiple technologies. Also new is the 3D-Ultimatepro, an improved edition of its body-contouring 3D-Ultimate device. SBC is launching professional skin cream and serum formulas including the Green Caviar Trio, as well as new treatment kits for manicure, pedicure and waxing, all found on E22. Sothys will launch Detox Energie on B19, a new six-piece skincare collection and accompanying treatment, designed to reduce the impact of pollution on the skin and boost cellular energy.

Thalgo’s latest line, Peeling Marin, uses acids from fermented micronised marine algae to combat visible signs of ageing. See it on B11. Exclusive offers for £1,000 minimum orders are also available.

Visit F22 to see Advanced Esthetics Solutions’s new Noon Aesthetics skincare brand, as well as the launch of Medi Lux, a multi-purpose LED system targeting collagen, lymphatic flow and sebaceous activity. Italian manufacturer The Baldan Group will showcase popular devices at J40 such as the Infra Baldan 3.0 – an exercise bike with infrared lights that activate aerobic metabolism and promote weight loss.>

Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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WHEN I GET THAT FEELING, I WANT

N A T U R A L H E A L I N G

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Professional Beauty North 2019

Best Brothers will bring the New MeDioStar – Monolith to J40, a laser that comes with dual-handpieces and can do a full-body treatment in less than 30 minutes.

On D22, Biotec Italia will show machines such as XIase Plus, which includes CPL hair removal and YAG laser, and the HIFU Renova, offering radiofrequency, microdermabrasion and mesotherapy. Learn about Sculpt, CACI’s body system providing nonsurgical toning and inch-loss treatment, on F12. Also on show will be Synergy, a facial system for wrinkle-reduction and skin elasticity.

CACI SYSTEM WIN ASYNERGY

One lucky PB North visitor will win a £15,000 CACI Synergy system, which has 110 treatment settings for facial toning and rejuvenation. To enter the competition, register for your free PB North ticket at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register entering the promo code WINCACI. Then, visit the CACI stand at the show to have your badge scanned. The winner will be announced on CACI’s stand on Monday, October 14, at 3pm.

Visitors to M28 can see a demo of the Celluma Light Therapy machine, as well as other devices, and also enjoy 15% off any system purchased at the show.

TREND WATCH | SKIN DEEP With clients coveting fresh, dewy skin, devices that penetrate the epidermis to offer both a deep clean and a deeper infusion of active ingredients are bang on trend, and there are plenty to check out at Professional Beauty North. Venus Concept’s new Venus Glow uses a vacuum, 360-degree rotating tip, and two ultra-fine jet streams to deep-clean pores, while the new DermaFrac Compact combines microneedling with simultaneous infusion. A vacuum draws the skin against the fine needles, which gently puncture the skin, while a serum is simultaneously delivered into the fine microchannels created. Its new, smaller footprint makes it suitable for mobile therapist or smaller salons, too. Meanwhile, 3D-lipo’s new 3D-hydrO2 Facial machine offers seven technologies in one device. One of its handpieces is for deep cleansing and it also works to oxygenate and deeply hydrate the skin.

Crystal Clear will demonstrate systems Comcit-Elite, Plasma Lift and Oxygen Therapy on H12, as well as offering exclusive deals on its anti-ageing skincare line and Quartz Spa. Aesthetic therapists can check out Cynosure’s TempSure Firm body handpieces on M33, for driving continuous, non-invasive monopolar radiofrequency energy to the abdomen, arms, buttocks and thighs.

Check out the latest device from LED phototherapy brand Dermalux on K16. Flex MD has seven different treatment protocols for the face and body. Eden Aesthetics will talk about its light and portable microneedling and simultaneous infusion device Derma Frac Compact on stand M27.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Fusion GT will show a range of devices on J24, including Skin-B and Skin-OX for mesotherapy, Oenanthe and TMC3+ for peels and Biodermogenesi. Lynton Lasers will bring Deka’s Onda, a microwave-based body-shaping machine, and IllumiFacial, an IPL facial device, to K34, as well as offering a Level 4 training course with a system purchase.

On K12, therapists can check out Neo Elegance’s Lumineo device, which uses LED wavelengths to reduce breakoutsand aid wound healing. There will be show-only discounts on the Neofirm system too. Visitors to B34 can claim £2,000 off the Opatra Dome, which measures the surface and subsurface of the facial skin using RGB visible light, PL polarised light and UV spectrum imaging, by quoting PBNOFFER19. Oxyjet UK has modified its facial rejuvenation technology to create Oxyjet Go – a handheld device that delivers microencapsulated oxygen deep into the dermis. See it on M11.

Silhouette’s latest machine Dermatherm RF Trio combines the power of radiofrequency, polychromatic light therapy and mechanical vacuum drainage in a variety of face and body treatments. See it on E23.

Professional Beauty North 2019

On J34, there will be show offers on Skyncare’s entire product range, including its hair-removal and skin rejuvenation system Biocarelite IPL & SHR. Aesthetic therapists can learn more about Unique Skin’s microneedling device Innopen and skin lesion treatment Freezpen on M24. Venus Concept is bringing popular machines Venus Versa, Venus Freeze Plus and Venus Velocity to K38, as well as latest launch dermal rejuvenation device Venus Glow. >

Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty North 2019

96 NAILS Nail techs can get their hands on Bisou Pro’s latest UV/LED Nail Lamp and enjoy a 30% discount on all products. Head to K58. Check out the Brillbird stand, E42, for some treatment demos and new product launches. Visit Kaga Nails on K54 to see its new Magic Gel Remover method of soaking off gel-polish while avoiding acetone, and buy it at a special show discount.

Celebrating its first birthday, first-time exhibitor Nails by Annabel will talk visitors through its new education programme, pre-mixed glitter acrylics, new acrylic colours and exclusive deals on D38. Pure Nails will launch Halo PoliBuild Precision Gel on H50, as well as bringing its Autumn collection of 5D cat eye gels, The Book of Shadows. >

Discover Louella Belle’s Footlogix Pediceuticals on F4, where experts will show the 4-Piece Implement Kit and Cleansing Wipes, formulated to tackle rough and peeling skin, calluses and more.

Following a rebrand, Millenium Nails will launch the Atom Gel Polish and a HEMA-free and primerless liquid monomer, on E34. Techs can also sign up free for a 40% lifetime discount on all products. Missu will showcase recent launches Remover Jelly and Flexi Press Tips on K62, as well as running a three-for-two offer on gel-polishes.

TREND WATCH | EASY OFF A reliable remover product is a staple in every nail tech’s kit, but while polish and enhancement formulas are continually updated for enhanced performance and care of the natural nails, removers have been left behind. Two brands will be exhibiting innovative removal products at the show, designed to make the process more efficient and gentler. Missu’s Remover Jelly is applied directly to gel or acrylic enhancements and is billed to work in just three minutes, while Magic Gel Remover from Kaga Nails is also a brush-on formula that means clients don’t have to soak their fingers in acetone.

British brand Nail Gaga will showcase its Gelore Gel Polish line and its AW19 collection, which includes chrome pigments and acrylic powders, on J45. Inspired by Marilyn Monroe, the AW19 Gelish collection will be showcased on the Nail Harmony stand, H34. The polishes are available individually and as a set.

Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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VISIT US ON STAND D17

EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019

EPIGENETIC SERUM

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ACTIVE INGREDIENT SERUM WITH EFFECT IN THE DEPTH OF THE SKIN

WINNERS OF THE

SHOW OFFER

£400+VAT

TODAY ONLY SAVE £268.80

J A NS S E N C O S M E T I C S U K | K R E S T Y N A B AT T Y DIRECT DIAL: +44 1942 252 873 | MOBILE: +44 7599 484 038 INFO.UK@JANSSEN-COSMETICS.COM | WWW.JANSSEN-COSMETICS.COM

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Professional Beauty North 2019

98 LASHES, BROWS & MAKE-UP Visitors can find the new Ash Cosmetics x Sean Maloney Celebrity Edit Collection on B51, with the first 20 buyers each day receiving a complimentary lip kit. BuzzBeauty will launch Pro Body Glow, the first product by celeb MUA Armand Beasley, on M81. It’s a 100% natural moisturising and skin-finishing balm. On J56, CMB will bring Refillable Magnetic Compacts and Business in a Bag free colour assessments and starter kits for discounted prices.

TREND WATCH | EYES WIDE OPEN Visitors at the show can be among the first to discover the latest brow trend set to take over the industry – brow lamination. The treatment is perfect for clients with naturally fuller brows and sees the hairs brushed up in the same direction and fixed in place. At the show, the team behind Hello Gorgeous Lashes will be on hand to talk therapists through its training, the cost of which includes a full treatment kit. There’s something new for lash artists to discover too – Novalash’s London Volume technique is new to market and allows technicians to create dark, dense and fluffy lash looks with large, bold fans, offering something different for clients who prefer a fuller look.

Eyelash Design Company will showcase iRevive, a Lash Perfect line designed to enhance lash extension services. Also on F34 will be new Magnetise Magnetic Eyeliner. Learn more about Hello Gorgeous Lashes training academy on M83 and be among the first to book onto the brand’s Brow Lamination course.

Don’t miss the new launch from Jane Iredale on F21. The mineral make-up brand has developed Beyond Matte Liquid Foundation in 18 shades. On D59, Kryolan will launch a new range of Cosmetic Counter Displays for salons. Also available will be a full range of make-up, kits, brushes, accessories and tools. On L80, MUAs can get Lick and Lash’s bestselling 18-piece eyeshadow Spice Palette for just £20 at the show (normal RRP £24.95).

Visit Novalash on B40 to find out more about the brand’s latest treatment, London Volume, which allows techs to create large, bold fans for an extreme look.>

Inglot will be at PB North this year on stand D5 with a range of cult products from its on-trend make-up lines.

Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Accredited Level 4 Training in Light Therapy Earn up to 60 CPD Delivered by Wynyard Aesthetic Academy

Experience Celluma at: CCR London, 10-11 October, Stand #E23 Professional Beauty North, 13-14 October, Stand #M28

Celluma: Flex with a Purpose ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊

Most globally recognised, clinically validated & awarded professional LED Contours & shape taking whilst staying in place, portable & stand-free Class IIa medical devices, FDA-Cleared, medically CE Marked Clinically proven wavelengths, powerful skin rejuvenation Global market leader, registered for sale in 73 countries Extensive post-sale marketing & educational support Choose from 9 professional grade models

“My therapies not only cover progressive skin care but total body wellness, so the Celluma was a natural choice. Adding advanced LED technology with the added benefit to mold the unit to adapt to body parts for healthy ageing and rejuvenating treatments is excellent, as it allows for larger surface coverage. The Celluma device is an integral part of my Masterlift therapy. Its advanced technology allows the deeply penetraing wavelengths to interact at a cellular level giving relief to pain, reduced inflammation and improvement in conditions such as acne.” Marie Reynolds, Skin & Wellness Therapist Fortnum and Mason, Piccadilly, London • MRL CLinic, Norfolk

MEDICALLY CE MARKED FOR:

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PROFESSIONAL ENQUIRY:

+44 (0) 203 981 3993 +44 (0) 7767 367 070

www.celluma.co.uk

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TANNING & WAXING On A18, Aqua Natural will exhibit its Strip Sugaring range with Soothing Mist and Pure fine Talc, accompanied by demonstrations and offers.

Simply CBD Bronzer is bringing its four-piece CBD-infused range of tanning products to L58, which claim to moisturise while giving a golden glow. On B32, get to grips with Wax Logic’s full range of products at its interactive wax bar, covering gel, resin and liposoluble waxes. Waxu will be on F11 with its full range of waxes, and pre- and post-wax treatment products.

TRAINING & SUPPLIES Australian Bodycare UK has teamed up with Surrey-based salon Queen Bee in the Woods to offer a Babtac-accredited Intimate Waxing Course. Meet the team on F29.

Purchase Blackpants Workwear’s Intelligent Leggings on E50, a multifunctional garment that combines shapewear, compression wear and outerwear. Drop by the City & Guilds stand, J77, to find out what’s new from the awarding body and how their courses can boost beauty careers. On M66, Displayitt will showcase a range of modern and decorative stands to display their nail polishes on.

Essential Beauty Supplies will bring Depil8 to stand E30, showcasing a range of strip waxes.

Flawless Photography Studio will be promoting its VIP Experience Days, which include a luxury MAC makeover accompanied by afternoon tea. Meet the team on K88.

Meanwhile, on the distributor’s other stand, E32, Outback Organics educator Claire Prior will be doing waxing demos and talking about recent launch Green & Gold Massage Body Oils. Find out about Inverness Safe Pierce’s Ear Piercing device on D80, a quick and sterile system for piercing ears in the salon environment. Visitors to F42 can learn about what LV College offers, including a new nanoblading course in brows, lips, eyeliner, areola and scalp. Other courses include dermaplaning. >

Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register

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VISIT US ON STAND L58

EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019

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HJ LIVE NORTH HJ Live North will take place at Professional Beauty North this year, hosting leading haircare brands including Barber Warehouse, British Barbers Association, Donna Bella, Olivia, Salon Services and Wylera, as well as a live stage with demos from top hair teams.

Talk to the National Beauty Federation (NBF) team on D37 about its free online guides and its business resources for salon owners. Offering a cloud-based system that can manage schedules, staff, appointments and stock, the Phorest team will be on F44 to discuss its services and recent updates to the Salon Branded app.

Software provider Shortcuts has partnered with Google to find new ways to connect salon owners with customers in their area. On D35, accounts opened at the show will get Reserve with Google set up for free.

On M12, take a seat on PJS Direct’s PJS-Tempo treatment couch – a four-motor chair that has 240-degree swivel functionality and height adjustability. You can find Postquam Professional’s new furniture line Verónica Rico on F75, which includes contemporary shelving units.

Home teeth-whitening brand Smilebright will be on B33 with its EU-regulated formula, which promises professional results with no sensitivity. The product is half price at the show. Find out more about VTCT and ITEC’s regulated qualifications and assessments in the beauty, nonmedical aesthetics, complementary therapy, hairdressing and barbering sectors on H40. PB

Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/register

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Starting a SALON

Are you ready to take the next big step in your professional career and open your own beauty salon? If so, you need to do some serious planning, explains the NBF etting things right from the start will give you a much greater chance of success. “You’ll need to start with a business plan and cash flow forecast before you go any further,” advises NBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard.

to your budget. You’ll need to think about the locations where you can best reach your target market and also consider practical issues such as public transport and parking.

VISIT US ON STAND D37

EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019

Business plan

Qualifications and licences

“Your business plan is a vital document, and something you will definitely need to have if you plan to apply for loans to help get your business off the ground,” says Beaumont-Goddard. “Include the short, medium and long-term plans for your beauty salon and key information such as your business idea and goals, how you will cover your start-up costs, if you plan to employ people and how you will compete against the competition.” Download a free in-depth guide to starting your own beauty salon at nhf.info/beauty-startup-guide. This comprehensive guide covers key issues such as types of business, insurance, health and safety, GDPR, business finances and marketing.

“You must make sure that you have the necessary qualifications to carry out the treatments you plan to offer, otherwise your insurance will not cover you,” warns Beaumont-Goddard. “Our fact sheet (nhf.info/age&qualsfactsheet) sets out the minimum qualifications required for each type of Untitled-15 1 treatment.” You will also need to check which licences you’ll need from your local authority.

Cash flow forecast Your cash flow forecast is equally important. “Running out of cash is a major cause of business failure – even when businesses are profitable. You’ll need to plan your incomings and outgoings for the coming 12 months and enter the figures on a spreadsheet so you can clearly see where you stand,” says BeaumontGoddard. Find out how to create a cash flow forecast at nhf.info/cashflow

Choosing a name and location Make sure the name you select hasn’t already been taken by another business by checking on the Companies House website. “Also, don’t limit future growth by naming your business after a treatment or location – after all, you may expand the treatments you offer and eventually open more salons or move to a different area,” says Beaumont-Goddard. It’s crucial to choose the right location while sticking

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Employing staff You will need to comply with a wide range of employment laws if you take on staff. “This includes paying the National Minimum Wage and providing a workplace pension scheme,” advises BeaumontGoddard. NBF members can download a free guide to employing staff at nhf.info/recruitment-guide

The NBF For less than 75p a day, the National Beauty Federation (NBF) will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us. The NBF is the sister trade association of the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF). Find out more: nhf.info/nbf Join the NBF before the end of October 2019 and quote PBO25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965

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FIND YOUR PERFECT MATCH Connect with distributors and brand owners worldwide using our new online matchmaking service

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GLOBAL DISTRIBUTOR AND BRAND OWNER MATCHMAKING OPPORTUNITIES

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inspired

This year, Professional Beauty North offers new opportunities to learn, network and grow your beauty business

rofessional Beauty prides itself on the depth and breadth of its education programmes and networking opportunities at the shows. At PB North 2019, we’ve taken this even further with a brand new seminar programme, stage and networking forum. Like all the education at the show, the Aesthetic Therapist Agenda, Natural & Holistic Stage and Salon and Spa Connect have been carefully planned to give you the most engaging, inspiring and useful content to bring back to your salon or spa.

BUSINESS SKILLS This programme will host speakers from all corners of the industry, bringing you advice on topics including attracting and retaining clients, managing your team and turning a mobile operation into a salon business.

DON’T MISS How to attract more VIP clients to your salon Mikey Cannon, product design lead, Phorest SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 11AM Learn the tricks top salons use to leverage data to attract and impress the highest-spending clients. Cannon will show you how to boost your takings in three to five years using these methods.

DON’T MISS Stuck in your career? Get back on track and find the route to success Stefania Rossi, founder, Hidden Talent; James Cassel-Smith, business development manager, VTCT; Amy Harper, spa training and development manager, Gaia Spa; Sara Shoemark, director, Glow Beauty; and Natasha Pilbrow, co-founder, LeSalon. MONDAY, OCTOBER 14, 3PM This session is for anyone looking to start out in the beauty industry or existing therapists feeling trapped in their career. Our panel of experts will offer advice on getting started as well as how to take the next step and get unstuck.

HOW TO We’ve chosen experts in their field to share their best tips and tricks on waxing, lash extensions, nail art, bridal make-up and more. If you want to improve your core treatment skills, these sessions are not to be missed.

DON’T MISS How to perform the perfect female intimate wax Jennifer Hunter, head of education and sales, Waxu SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 11AM This female intimate waxing demo will show you how to position your clients appropriately, as well as the most comfortable and efficient wax application and removal techniques, plus tips on how to get the best from your products.

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107 Professional Beauty North 2019

DON’T MISS Asian bridal hair and make-up masterclass part 1 – make-up demo Mimi Lomax, make-up artist and hair stylist SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 3PM This masterclass will show MUAs how to recreate the most elaborate bridal make-up and gorgeous Asian bridal eye art.

TREND WATCH A new programme for 2019 at North, the Trend Watch stage will cover the most talked-about trends and topics affecting the industry. Expect sessions on sustainability, CBD treatments, the vegan boom and inclusivity in the beauty workplace.

DON’T MISS How to become a sustainable salon and eliminate single-use plastics Kirsty Klanifard, director, Uniquely Organic EcoSpa SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 11AM With clients paying a lot more attention to their impact on the planet, how can you make your salon more eco-friendly? Klanifard will share some easily implementable tips for bringing eco-awareness into your beauty business, including cutting down on plastic waste, investing in reusable products and reducing electricity consumption.

DON’T MISS Wellness at work: how to avoid therapist burnout Clare Cockell, owner, The Reef Spa SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 4PM With burnout now being recognised as a chronic condition resulting from workplace stress that hasn’t been successfully managed, learn how to address anxiety and stress with therapists in the salon.

DIGITAL SKILLS Now more than ever, having a strong online presence is vital for making your business a success. The new Digital Skills stage will host sessions covering website design and performance as well as all aspects of social media, from which platforms to use and finding the right audience, to turning customers into brand ambassadors.

DON’T MISS How to market your start-up business on social media Jacqui Van Loen, business trainer SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 2PM Van Loen will give you step-by-step instructions to apply to your own business, from psychological triggers that make people buy to simply demonstrating your true competitive advantage.

DON’T MISS Is your salon website design losing you clients? Kate Woods, founder, KOR Digital MONDAY, OCTOBER 14, 11AM This engaging session will look at the mistakes you could be making with your virtual shop window, aka your website, and give you tips to attract and keep more clients more often.

WARPAINT MAKE-UP Hosted by celebrity make-up artist Armand Beasley, this stage will bring MUAs up to speed on everything from how to price your services to working with natural and “free-from” make-up, presented by some of the most renowned artists in the business.

DON’T MISS Ash Cosmetics X Sean Maloney – The Celebrity Edit MONDAY, OCTOBER 14, 12:15PM Join Ash Cosmetics on stage with celebrity make-up artist Sean Maloney for an exclusive make-up masterclass followed by a Q&A session.

ADVANCED TREATMENTS A programme designed for professionals looking to expand their knowledge on some of the latest advanced treatments on the market.

DON’T MISS Combination therapies relating to mesotherapy Andrew Hansford, director, Fusion Aesthetic Academy SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 11AM Mesotherapy is one of the fastest-growing treatments in the advanced treatments sector. Hansford will discuss how it can be combined with other treatments to give clients fantastic results.

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NATURAL & HOLISTIC STAGE This programme will cover all things natural. Be inspired and learn how both you and your clients can lead a healthier, more sustainable lifestyle.

DON’T MISS Let’s talk menopause Meg Mathews, founder, Meg’s Menopause SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 12PM Join celebrity wellness expert Meg Mathews for an open discussion on all things menopause and find out about her mission to break the stigma around this time in a woman’s life.

DON’T MISS

DON’T MISS Secrets of a celebrity facialist – super skin facial technology Teresa Tarmey, facialist and owner of Teresa Tarmey clinics MONDAY, OCTOBER 14, 2PM With a special interest in technological advancements, Tarmey will share her skincare secrets to help you achieve long-term radiance and reduce signs of ageing for clients’ skin. This session will cover sleep, supplements, skincare and technological treatments.

AESTHETIC THERAPIST AGENDA The new Aesthetic Therapist Agenda seminar programme is aimed at therapists looking to continue their education or get into the aesthetic market. It is split into four sections: skin, advanced treatments, career, and education and equipment.

Sound healing to improve wellbeing Harriet Smith, sound healer and Kundalini yoga teacher MONDAY, OCTOBER 14, 3PM Find out how sound healing helps the mind and body relax through the process of lying down and listening to the gongs, crystal singing bowls and other unique musical instruments. Live stages and seminars cost £3 per session or £1 for students. To see the full programme and book, visit: professionalbeauty.co.uk/livestages

SALON & SPA CONNECT SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13 We’re bringing owners, managers and freelancers together via a networking forum, where you can find solutions to business challenges with like-minded professionals. Topics to be discussed include retention marketing, social media and recruitment. Tickets cost £25. Book yours at professionalbeauty.co.uk/north

DON’T MISS

EDUCATION FORUM

Chemical peels demonstration Martine Jarman, owner, Skin Genius Clinic SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13, 10AM Chemical peels are a bread-and-butter service for advanced therapists, so it’s important to keep your approach and knowledge up to date. Jarman will demo the steps to follow to get optimum results for clients, as well as point out common errors that therapists make.

PB North holds the Education Forum every year with the aim of raising industry standards and preparing our future beauty workforce right from the start. This year, an Ofsted inspector will be on the panel to equip educators to quickly respond to new developments, deliver excellence and help students succeed. Tickets cost £10, including lunch and a goody bag provided by Elemis, Eve Taylor, Dermalogica and SBC. Book yours at professionalbeauty.co.uk/educationforum

DON’T MISS

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Tom Howells, director at Sparcstudio, adds “Generally, lower-temperature saunas with higher humidity will have slightly lower running costs.” Meanwhile, steam rooms, he advises, benefit in particular from thicker insulation, which also reduces condensation from the ceiling. The current trend for sleek, modern glass doors without frames is problematic, however. They generally only allow for single glazing, even though well-insulated walls and ceilings are imperative to keeping the heat in steam rooms and saunas. “High-performance insulation is a must from our point of view. The benefits outweigh the costs because heat transmission, especially via the ceiling, is one of the main factors behind energy loss,” says Rolf Glantz, former head of architecture and design at thermal facilities manufacturer Klafs and general manager at Klafs subsidary Geplan Design.

Multiple choice When it comes to the design and installation of thermal facilities, Glantz says to “think extensively about energy efficiency”. He explains: “Klafs has developed several concepts for lower energy consumption without reducing comfort for guests. For example, the Green Sauna can help spa operators cut energy usage by 35%, which allows them to protect the environment and save money at the same time.” Infrared saunas are another eco-friendly option, as they only use energy when in use, as opposed to conventional saunas, which need to be switched on for the whole time the spa is open. However, the jury is out when it comes to the effectiveness of infrared versions compared with traditional saunas. Howells is of the opinion that,“Infrared is pleasant but only effective in smaller rooms. Hybrid rooms are possible but traditional is still the best”.

From top to bottom: A Starpool combination steam room and sauna, a Dröm infrared sauna

Lee, however, believes “spas should definitely consider infrared saunas. They have different benefits to traditional saunas, making them a great addition rather than an alternative. Sebastiani is in agreement, adding,“Infrared saunas do not achieve the effect of a Finnish sauna at 90°C due to the lower temperature. Starpool has a collection of combi saunas that can work both in Finnish or infrared mode.”

Under the sun Heat and energy sources are another area to focus on, starting with boilers, which need to be discussed at the beginning of the spa construction process to ensure the most efficient and appropriate one is chosen. Solar panels can be a good add-on, although the high temperatures required for heat experiences mean that, for most spas, panels need to become more efficient to be a truly viable option. “Solar panels are not currently able to support the power request needed for spa environments,” says Sebastiani.“We don’t think they can be proposed for this kind of use.” Although, Lee believes it is always worth considering sustainable options wherever possible when designing a spa. There are, however, options for energyefficient lighting that can help spas lower both their energy consumption and bills, like LED.“This smart technology enables spa operators to reduce lighting energy consumption by up to 70% compared to conventional lights,” says Glantz. >

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WELLNESS NEXT LEVEL

TAKING TO THE

The Lamp Hotel

La Butte aux Bois Lanaken, Belgium

Norrkรถping, Sweden

SLEEP THERAPY Caesars JW Palace Bluewaters Marriott Miami Dubai, Turnberry Resort & UAE Spa USA

HYDROTHERAPY Bergamos Retreat

Friendswood, USA

INFRARED THERAPY The Breakers

Palm Beach, USA

TREATMENT TABLES Galgorm Resort & Spa Ballymena, Northern Ireland

QUARTZ THERAPY

PEDI/MANI CHAIRS

www.gharieni.com

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The use of smart lighting controls should also be a key element in any spa sustainability plan, allowing operators to control usage as efficiently as possible. “Lighting controls should allow for a timer or daylight sensor so that the lighting can be turned off automatically when not in use or lowered in output during daylight hours,” says Peter Mitchell, spa and wellness design manager at sauna and steam room manufacturer Helo UK. “Some lighting circuits will be required for cleaning after hours, but decorative lighting, for example, should be isolated on a circuit that can be turned off,” he adds. “A system is only as good as its interface, so being able to adjust lighting simply from a tablet with open-access

From top to bottom: The juniper infused panoramic sauna by Sparcstudio at South Lodge, Starpool smart controls for heat experiences

software will simplify the ongoing management of the lighting system.” Another interesting development is water-powered lighting, whereby if a shower, for example, is being used, then a water wheel connected to a motor will turn, creating enough energy to power a light source. With so many ways to work towards becoming a more eco-friendly spa, there’s no excuse not to make some simple changes – but it shouldn’t end there.“The objective of any programme is not only to save water and energy but to firmly instil a culture of conservation to ensure long-term, continuing improvements,” says Brialey. “Once your programme is in place, reducing consumption will become a respected way of life in your spa for both staff and guests.” Therefore, it’s important to communicate your efforts to guests, with in-spa messages or polite notices asking for careful consideration on water and energy consumption. Brialey continues: “Being a responsible spa is becoming increasingly important to savvy consumers, whose thoughts have turned not only to their own health and wellbeing, but to the impact on the environment around them.” PB

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FORCE of

nature

A full floor of thermal features and some clever design techniques allowed The Elan Spa at Mallory Court to bring the outside in, discovers Fiona Vlemmiks

he quintessentially English gardens are an integral part of the spa journey at the luxury Elan Spa at Mallory Court Hotel, so creating an outdoor thermal area that blended seamlessly into the grounds was an important aspect of the design of the spa, which opened in 2017. Part of the Elan Spas group, within the Eden Hotel collection, Mallory Court’s spa is the only one within the group that has been built from scratch, providing the team with a blank canvas. To help the spa achieve its vision, the managers called upon the expertise of UK swimming pool, spa and thermal specialist Rigo Spa. The spa is in a standalone building spanning three floors and housing 12 spa bedrooms, its own restaurant, a gym and seven treatment rooms, plus a host of thermal facilities which occupy the whole of the ground floor. The indoor thermal suite comprises a hydro pool, salt sauna, steam room and rasul mud chamber. A natural extension of this, situated on the outdoor sun spa terrace, is a vitality pool and a glass-fronted sauna, which allows guests to gaze out over the Warwickshire countryside. “We are famous for our gardens and, wherever we can, try to bring them into the spa, using the vegetables and the fruits in the spa café, for example. We have also created wellness walks that direct guests into the grounds,” says Mary Smith, group spa manager. “We didn’t want the spa area to be contained inside four walls, and Rigo Spa has a strong grasp on trends in the wellness market so really understood our vision of bringing the outdoors into the spa space.” Smith’s decision to work with Rigo Spa came at the drawing-board stage after she viewed the company’s work in other spas. “We really wanted a rasul mud

chamber and we loved the one we’d seen created by them,” she adds. “They were heavily involved in the plant room design too and offer a great maintenance and aftercare service. They came in and did all the training with our staff.”

Private Space Since the spa opened, Smith says her main strategy has been to concentrate on raising its profile to attract non-hotel guests. “Our USP is that we’re a destination spa with a standalone building so you can come for a true spa getaway. Guests can arrive, change into a robe and never have to get dressed or leave the spa area if they don’t want to.” The spa has already scooped some awards since opening, and the group even launched its own spa academy in September 2018, celebrating its first set of graduates this year. “It’s the first of its kind in the country,” says Smith. “All our brand product partners are sponsoring it.” The spa has also evolved its treatment offer, and recently launched massage for cancer patients. “We’ve worked alongside The Amethyst Trust to design cancer recovery retreats as well. These launched in August and are already popular,” says Smith. She believes the key to the spa’s future success is to ensure a broad offer in line with trends and client feedback, adding, “Having such wonderful thermal facilities is a big part of this and they have really enhanced the spa guest experience, especially the rasul.” PB

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Th you lea

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Hot Topic

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THE

problem WITH FAST-TRACK

ONLINE courses

While online training can be a great way to learn the theory of a topic, fast-track courses with no practical assessment are damaging the reputation of the beauty industry, argues Kerry Beavis

o say that I’m alarmed at the number of cheap online beauty therapy courses popping up is an understatement. It makes me scared for our industry and petrified for the clients visiting these therapists who have learned their “skills” by watching a few videos. Both budding therapists and clients alike need to be educated that cheap training is not necessarily the best. These online companies appeal to so many therapists on a budget and in our “I want everything now” culture, it makes sense to take a chance on turning your life around so quickly, with promises of starting that dream career from the comfort of your own home.

Poor standard

up a spatula and carry out a fully competent bikini wax first time, without any tutor guidance. It just doesn’t happen. I love that people want to learn new skills and want to start beauty therapy businesses, it helps our industry thrive, but what I don’t love is that people are cutting corners and finding quick fixes to make those dreams a reality. Students are being misled by these online academies into thinking they’re qualified enough to become professional therapists – that they can charge for their services and even go out and become employed. This is impacting the industry’s standards and reputation. While I don’t have any issue with the theory part of a therapy course being taught online – it is in fact an advantage as it saves time and keeps costs down for the learner – I don’t believe a therapist can learn the practical skills without being shown them by a tutor in real time. Trust me, it will cost you more in the long run when clients complain about the treatment and no one returns, creating a business that flops or just depends heavily on discounts. Investing in the right education to become the best therapist you can be will ultimately create you a career that will stand the test of time and have clients returning again and again. PB

Students are being misled by these online academies into thinking they’re qualified enough to become professional therapists

However, most of these courses aren’t up to scratch and don’t deliver what therapists need. One £50 course I found promises that you can learn manicure, pedicure, gel system, fibre system, nail enhancement removal, consultations, and health and safety, plus advice on how to market your nail services. Each module is assessed by an online multiple-choice exam, with no tutor contact at all. Here’s another example: for just £207 you can study seven different beauty therapies online – facials, make-up, spray tan, waxing, eyebrow tinting and shaping, eyelash tinting, and eyelash extensions – with no teacher contact, just 32 videos to watch. The trainee then just has to send before-and-after photos to a tutor to assess. These online courses exist and people are buying into them, which is worrying. I’ve been a beauty school lecturer for many years and I can count on one hand the number of therapists who have been able to pick

Kerry Beavis is a home-based therapist who won Professional Beauty’s Therapist of the Year Award in 2016. Hear Beavis’s talk “Be your own boss – going mobile” on the Business Skills stage at PB North on Monday, October 14.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Trend Watch

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Natural

REMEDY

With clients more aware of CBD’s skin benefits, salons and spas are now incorporating the hemp-derived oil into treatments to aid an array of ailments. Amanda Pauley finds out how you can take your protocols to new highs

annabidiol (CBD) is a buzzword in the wellness industry right now, with consumers turning to the naturally occurring constituent in the cannabis plant for help with a variety of issues. Not to be confused with tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) – the psychoactive component in the plant that causes the sensation of getting high – CBD oil is safe, legal and has been proven to have anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties, as well as being healing, calming and soothing. So, it’s not surprising that beauty giants have been working the wonder ingredient into a whole host of skincare goodies – the latest CBD range to land is Pineapple Express by South Seas (read about it on page 164). According to data by online deals platform Wowcher, UK sales of products containing CBD oil have soared 99% this year, with clients living in London, Cardiff and Edinburgh buying into the trend the most. But, the best is yet to come. The movement is now making its mark in the professional realm, with treatment protocols being given the cannabidiol upgrade so therapists can deliver ultimate skin health, creating loyal, returning customers. From CBD-infused facials that calm hormonal skin to massages that provide pain relief, salons and spas are harnessing the healing properties of CBD oil to cement their

reputation as the place to treat ailments caused by modern-day lifestyles, such as stress, anxiety and lack of sleep. “People’s awareness of the benefits of CBD is increasing and anyone who is serious about skincare is investing in training in this area of beauty,” explains Bridget O’Keeffe, owner of Blush + Blow in Chelsea, London, which offers CBD facials. CBD’s transition into the treatment market doesn’t stop at traditional protocols either, with express services getting a makeover too. Simply CBD Bronzer launched the UK’s first CBD-infused tan in August, which gives a natural-looking glow that also hydrates and reduces inflammation. However, to successfully add CBD to your menu you need to understand the properties of the ingredient, says Sam Pearce, owner of The Potting Shed Spa in Batley, Yorkshire, which is launching a suite of CBD treatments. “It can be all too easy to stereotype this product, which is why it’s critical your offering is perceived in the correct way.” Find out how four beauty businesses have nailed their CBD treatment offer. PB

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Budock Vean CBD Spa Therapy, Falmouth Budock Vean hotel’s Natural Health Spa has launched a suite of CBD body treatments, making it the only wellbeing business in Cornwall to have such an in-depth offering. Organic CBD products are combined with either body wrap, hot stone or deep-tissue massage protocols to address health concerns such as poor sleep, low mood and stress. The spa uses its own CBD Therapy products – a body balm, massage oil, hero salve, bath salts and lip balm – developed by spa manager Martina Crkonova, an expert in herbal medicine. The spa has recently added a CBD-infused manicure and pedicure treatment to its menu too.

Trend Watch

127

Rudding Park Hotel & Spa CBD Experience, Harrogate The luxury spa has collaborated with cannabidiol product supplier MariPharm to create a CBD Experience that promotes anti-ageing, reduces anxiety and helps with pain relief. The service can be added to a number of the spa’s current treatments and involves application of CBD oil to sore muscles, followed by a CBD foot cleanse and a spritz of CBD spray under the tongue. The add-on service finishes with CBD-infused tea and chocolate. Guests who book in for the spa’s Time for Two couples’ treatment can also enhance their experience with a 25-minute CBD Bath Ritual, where a copper bath is filled with warm water and soothing CBD oil.

The Potting Shed Spa Getting Stoned CBD Menu, Batley The award-winning salon’s autumn/winter Getting Stoned CBD treatment menu includes face, body, and manicure and pedicure protocols, which blend the power of touch with the healing properties of cannabidiol. To coincide with the launch, owner Sam Pearce has also developed The Potting Shed’s Greenhouse Academy CBD Training – a course that teaches beauty businesses how to work CBD oil into their treatments in an authentic way. The training is tailored to each business and there are supporting products to retail. November training dates will be announced soon.

Blush + Blow CBD Facials, London The Chelsea-based beauty salon has tapped into the CBD trend by infusing the naturally occurring constituent of the cannabis plant into two resultdriven 60-minute facials. The CBD Detox and CBD Detox Microdermabrasion treatments both incorporate a 20-minute lymphatic drainage massage using Kannaway’s CBD Oil, which helps ease tension and reduce breakouts, alongside exfoliation protocols to create a glowing complexion. Both treatments are finished with application of Kannaway’s CBD-infused serum and moisturiser – the brand harnesses sustainably grown hemp that isn’t treated with pesticides, which is why Blush + Blow stocks it.

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Nail Notes

129

TEACHING WITH

YouTube:

THE ISSUES

With more amateurs incorrectly demoing nail kits on YouTube than ever before, award-winning tech Lee Moore explores the damage online tutorials are having on the nail industry

set myself a professional goal this year – to attend at least six training events to push my abilities as a nail tech. I vowed to learn new skills and so far I’ve attended two courses and a three-day brand training session, with each event teaching me something I didn’t know. What I realised is, if you don’t continually better yourself, then you miss out on vital industry developments. In the fast-paced nail sector, you have to keep learning, but the education needs to come from experienced professionals instead of online videos, which is now becoming the norm. I’ve read up on the current industry issues – the rise of contact allergies, for example – and I’m shocked by the amount of misinformation about it that’s being fed to nail techs, as well as to clients and enthusiasts who “just do nails for fun”. The number of chemical sensitivities and allergic reactions happening is destroying consumer confidence in the nail sector. Some of the images I’ve seen have been truly horrific and it’s because people haven’t been trained in how to use the system properly, they just watched an online video and went for it. It is up to us to make changes within the industry for the better so these things don’t happen. We need to invest in ourselves and in our staff, as well as educate our clients on what to look for in a reputable nail tech or salon. However, not all education is the same.

Time for regulation? I love watching nail tutorial videos on YouTube and there are some really experienced techs on the platform pushing the boundaries and inspiring others. However, I’ve also come across demos by non-professionals that

make me cringe – videos of amateurs doing applications and doing them wrong. Education is a key factor but I think regulation would go a long way to making the industry more professional. I know there are some boroughs in London that require you to apply for a licence to work which, once you have met the criteria, is issued for a couple of years. We also need to challenge the public perception of “it’s only nails”, too. After all, consumers wouldn’t let their mate cut and colour their hair, so why let an untrained friend do gel or acrylic nails on them? We also need to inspire techs to become better educated because this way they’ll be able to protect themselves and their clients from issues such as contact allergies. Recently, I was working on stand with a reputable nail brand at a trade show and I was amazed by the number of nail techs who were disinterested in CPD and further education to better their skills. The most common comment made that day was, “I only do nails for fun so why is it necessary to know about this training?”. With so many nail enthusiasts out there who have grown up with YouTube, it seems we have a great hill to climb to get the standard right. PB

Lee Moore is co-founder of Rock & Rose Beauty, based in Pinewood Studios, and a Professional Beauty Awards judge. She has 13 years’ nail and beauty industry experience.

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Christmas Tips

131

WAYS TO

motivate STAFF in

December Keeping momentum going during extra busy columns and extended hours is possible with a little consideration of what makes your team tick

Let them be pampered “Keeping staff motivated to do their best work during the festive season is one of the hardest things to achieve as a salon owner,” says Nicole Blacklock, CND education ambassador and co-owner of Absolutely Fabulous Nail Bar and Beauty Salon in Jarrow, Tyne and Wear. “It’s the busiest time of year, with long hours, not many breaks and all of your clients are in a rush.” For these reasons, Blacklock says it’s important not to forget that it’s your staff who bear the brunt, and that they need to recoup too. “We have a hamper filled with prizes for clients and use the money from this towards a spa day in January for all of us to relax,” she

says. “The salon pays the balance so the team don’t worry about affording it, and we chat, eat nice food and all get treatments. It’s something for us all to look forward to once the busy period is over and means we aren’t hungover from a night out during December, making us even groggier. It works perfectly.” Samantha Humberstone, owner of Lotions n Potions in Sheffield, also suggests a team spa day: “Let them be the ones who are pampered for a change,” she says. >

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Christmas Tips

132

Take them out of the salon Bonding with your team can take on a new dimension if you spend time together away from the salon or spa environment. If you go for a traditional night out post-Christmas, Humberstone believes the main thing is to allow staff to let their hair down and have fun together. “This could be a big party in a hotel, dinner at a nice restaurant or simply a night out at a bar,” she says. If you choose to close the salon and take staff out for a daytime activity instead, Humberstone suggests something completely unrelated to the industry, such as “cocktail making, a craft workshop, a trip to the races or theme

Give them time off

Scrummi Spa

While time off in December is usually not possible, giving therapists Christmas Eve off would go a long way towards boosting morale. “All of our staff have Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day off; and we open additional hours the week before to compensate,” says Blacklock. She adds that although it can be tempting to stay open in order to fit in extra last-minute bookings, “it’s so important to be firm with clients and stick to your opening hours over the festive period, otherwise you’ll be working all night”.

park, or a team-building outdoor adventure.” Kelly Murgatroyd, owner of Prestige Health & Beauty in Morecombe, Lancashire, adds: “After our Christmas event in late November, we have an outing to relax and have fun. I always feel great afterwards – the team is even more bonded and encouraged to work their hardest over the busy season.”

Many salon owners who employ younger therapists agree that financial incentives aren’t as effective as they used to be. Rewarding staff with time off could prove to be much more of an encouragement to put in extra work during December. “I’ve found that millennials don’t strive for commission or have the urge to make more money that I did when I was starting out,” says Murgatroyd. “Instead, I now give incentives of days off, staff nights out and free gifts. This Christmas, I’ll be giving employees a target to hit to receive a Saturday off with their commission.” For Ian Egerton, owner of The Stress Exchange Hair and Beauty Salon in London, getting to know what makes each therapist tick has proved the most effective way to incentivise them. “During December, when we usually need greater capacity, we encourage therapists to be flexible with their time so we can sell extra appointments in the run up to Christmas,” he says. “We offer them the opportunity to accrue time in December that they can then take off in lieu in the new year.” To add an extra sweetener, Egerton usually offers time and a half.

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Create a festive atmosphere There’s no reason why employees shouldn’t get to take part in festivities at work over the Christmas period, providing they still work efficiently. “To shift the focus away from the physical effort of the run up to Christmas we like to inject some fun into the salon,” says Egerton. “Over the years, we’ve tried many different things, such as fancy dress on Christmas Eve, a festive jumper day for charity and a team Secret Santa where we provide low-cost but

fun prizes.” Similarly, treating staff to festive snacks and (non-alcoholic) drinks of their choice as they rush through busy days and long evenings could help keep Christmas cheer alive. “Make sure your staff are provided with plenty of easy-to-grab snacks and drinks that help keep up their energy and nutrition,” suggests Blacklock. To boost morale and say thank you on the busiest days in December, Egerton often arranges for lunch to be delivered to the salon. “Or sometimes at the end of a day if we’re all finishing together, we’ll arrange pizzas and drinks after work, especially if it’s an extra-late finish,” he adds. Involving staff in client Christmas events could also help keep them motivated. Murgatroyd hosts an annual event for clients with an extra incentive for staff: “The therapist who makes the most on the night receives an advent calendar filled with products; and on Christmas Eve, I bring in food for the end of the day to toast the end of a busy period,” she says.

Christmas Tips

133

Reward them “Heading towards Christmas, we’re focused on seasonal treatments, shiny retail displays and trying to make the most of upping our revenue, but what about our staff?” asks Humberstone. It’s important not to forget that a successful Christmas period wouldn’t be possible without your team, and with that in mind, it’s the perfect time to let them know how appreciative you are for their service the whole year round. “Never underestimate a simple thank you card or a certificate of achievement,” she adds. “Sometimes it’s the smaller, thoughtful touches that we really appreciate and remember.” There are other simple but effective ways to give back to the team despite being extra busy and focused on Christmas revenue. A tactic Egerton uses to incentivise staff for the final December push is the promise of a Christmas bonus before they finish. “To drive sales of gift cards and treatment courses in December, we offer team incentives that rely on everyone

pulling together so no one misses out. We set a team target based on either financial goals or units sold, and then give a bonus by way of a percentage (usually between 5-10%) of sales made in December,” he explains. “We make sure we pay the team bonus out just before we finish for Christmas, as everyone loves having extra cash for the festive season.” PB

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Christmas Collections

134 Dermalogica Dermalogica’s holiday collection mixes hero products with new launches in bold packaging created exclusively by street artist Kelsey Montague. Be Radiant is a brightening and firming duo kit; Bright & Defend a stylish serum and moisturiser coffret; Be Bright a stocking filler containing a 13g version of Daily Microfoliant; and three-piece The Ultimate Cleanse & Glow Trio (pictured) is perfect for those with dull skin. There’s also a special festive edition of Phyto-Replenish Body Oil, formulated with fermented red ginseng, French plum seed oil, avocado oil and bergamot. See Trade: from £6.60 to £39.20 Dermalogica 0800 917 7147 at PB North on dermalogica.com

stand D18

Festive FANCIES

There’s an array of Christmas gifting options from the pro brands this year, with something for every type of beauty lover. Don’t miss your chance to pick some of them up at PB North

Image Skincare Giving the gift of luminous skin is the focus for Image Skincare’s Holiday Collection. Show-stopping set Renewing Ritual (pictured) is ideal for beauty buffs, containing bestsellers Max Stem Cell Facial Cleanser, Ageless Total Pure Hyaluronic Filler, Iluma Brightening Serum and I Mask Firming Transformation Mask; while Revitalise is perfect for skin in need of a little TLC, featuring Hydrating Facial Cleanser, Anti-Ageing Serum and Eye Recovery Gel from the Vital C range. There’s also masque duo set Merry Masking and five-piece hydrating coffret Beauty Sleep. Trade: from £39.50 to £65 0345 504 0461 imageskincare.co.uk

See Image Skincare at PB North on stand B20

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Christmas Collections

135 Caudalie The French vino therapy skincare brand has put together seven Christmas gifts featuring travel-size hero products, all with eco-designed packaging. The Premier Cru set (pictured) contains three products from the brand’s most advanced anti-ageing line – The Eye Cream, The Serum and The Cream, while the Vinosource gift pairs S.O.S Thirst-Quenching Serum and Intense Moisturizing Cream. There are also two smaller gifts ideal as stocking fillers: Beauty Elixir Bubble with Beauty Elixir face mist, and Vinosource Hydration Minis Cracker, with three mini Vinosource products. RRP: from £10 020 7720 7111 uk.caudalie.com

Beauty Lab There are four Beauty Lab gift sets for clients to choose from this festive season, each with three introductory size products. Options include Skin Perfecting Gift Set (pictured), containing Retinol Serum, Intense Hydration Perfecting Day Cream, Overnight Repair Beauty Cream and seven 2ml sachets of Ultra Defence Hydrator SPF 50; and Skin Recovery Gift Set for Men, with Meteorite Cleanser, Urban QuickFix and Caffeine Eye Mask. Trade: from £14.50 each 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

CND CND’s Holiday Hydration Duo Set contains hero products Solar Oil and Cuticle Eraser to help clients get their nails party-ready, while the new Holiday Heeling Kit pairs Cucumber Heel Therapy Intensive Treatment with a pair of CND Plush Socks. Both are packaged and priced to work as stocking fillers. The CND Crystal Alchemy Vinylux pinkie set also makes a great retail gift set and features four minis – three jewel shades plus a top coat. Trade: £7.95 to £10.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

See Elemis at PB North on stand E16

Elemis The pro brand has a suite of 21 Christmas goodies, from festive candles to hero-packed gift sets. The most decadent set is the Pure Brilliance coffret (pictured), which houses the brand’s popular results-driven range Ultra Smart ProCollagen. Inside the premium silver vanity case is the Ultra Smart Overnight Matrix, Complex 12 Serum, Eye Treatment Duo and Eye Tool. There are six other Pro-Collagen themed gift sets, each tailored to specific skin needs, while the brand’s orange and cinnamon scented Joyful Glow Candle will make an ideal stocking filler. RRP: from £23 to £245 0117 316 1888 elemis.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Christmas Collections

136 Nimue DIY At-Home Facial Kit; Multi-Masking Christmas Gift Set and Youth Blemish Control Kit are the three gift sets from cosmeceutical brand Nimue. The first contains Exfoliating Enzyme, Glyco Mask and limited-edition Hydra Replenish, a lightweight gelcream moisturiser; the Multi-Masking set features three 30ml masks: Clarifying, Rejuvenating, and Super Hydrating; and Youth Blemish Control is specially formulated for 10 to 20-year olds, with Facial Wash, Y:Skin Moisturiser, and Active Blemish Control with tea tree. Trade: £14.25 to £27.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Voya There’s plenty to choose from this year from the seaweed skincare brand, with four gift sets, three stocking fillers, plus a room diffuser and candle. The kits are Reveal Facial Gift Set, featuring Cleanse and Mend Gentle Cleanser, Me Time Soothing Moisturiser and a muslin cloth; Facial Gift Set: Man, containing Invigorating Facial Wash, Cooling Shave Gel and Rejuvenating Moisturiser; Bathing Gift Set: Bathe, a bath and shower oil duo in Revitalise and Relaxation blends; and Body Shower Duo: Touch, with body washes in relaxing True Tranquil and invigorating Squeaky Clean. RRPs: from £16– £68 +353 719 161872 voya.ie

Morgan Taylor Clients can get Christmas party-ready with Morgan Taylor’s glitzy 12-piece Champagne & Moonbeams Collection. Inspired by the glamour of the season, the polish range includes glitters See such as silver Sprinkle Of Twinkle and red Walking On Stardust; Louella Belle standout metallics Gilded in Gold and Copper Dream; and at PB North on shimmery cremés like nude Tell Her She’s Stellar and soft pink stand F41 Dancing & Romancing. The colours are available individually or in three retail kits, one of which comes in a gold star bag. Trade: £4.95 per lacquer, £59.40 for the collection, from £9.50 for the retail kits 0333 000 2100 (Louella Belle) louellabelle.co.uk

Pevonia There’s something for everyone in Pevonia’s impressive nine-piece Christmas offering, ranging from stocking fillers to full-on pamper kits. Items clients will be putting on their wish list include the festive-scented pomegranate and white fig Reed Diffuser; YouthRenew Party Pack in a quilted clutch bag, comprising a brush, body shimmer, compact mirror and tinted cream; and the Anti-Ageing Face and Body Collection, which contains the brand’s hero Stem Cells Phyto-Elite face range along with other popular products in a stylish vintage-style case. Trade: from £8.25 to £154 01449 727000 pevonia.co.uk

See Pevonia at PB North on stand D12

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LASH & BROW STYLING

! r u o l o C y M Creative Custom Colour Discover RefectoCil‘s extensive colour palette, custom blend shades and create a unique colour for your clients. • Colour lasts up to 6 weeks • Smudge & waterproof • Vegan tints Available at your wholesaler now Distributed exclusively by Salon System in the UK

Christmas Collections

138 Aromatherapy Associates

Katherine Daniels The three gift sets from Katherine Daniels are packed with skincare essentials. Your Discovery Collection contains Essential Exfoliating Gel (20ml), Nourishing Hydrating Balm (30ml) plus a choice of treatment cream to suit skin type (20ml). Your Wish features a pair of micro cloths, Essential Exfoliating Gel (20ml), Nourishing Hydrating Balm (30ml), Gentle Oil & Salt Exfoliator (30ml), a choice of treatment cream (50ml), and a choice of either Miracle Cleansing Jelly (100ml) or Essential Refreshing Cleansing Gel (200ml). The brand also has a Christmas candle with notes of cinnamon and clove. Trade: £10 for the candle; £14.20 for Your Discovery; from £32.87 for Your Wish 01767 682288 katherinedanielscosmetics.com

There are five gift collections and two tree baubles from the aromatherapy brand. The collections include Seasonal Saviours Bath & Shower Collection, with a trio of 9ml oils; Serene Sleep, with Light Relax Bath & Shower Oil, Relax Body Wash and Deep Relax Rollerball; Winter Wind-Down with Muscle Gel, Rollerball, and Bath & Shower Oil in the De-Stress blend; Ultimate Wellbeing, with 10 x 9ml Bath and Shower Oils; and Discovery Wellbeing, with 10 x 3ml Bath and Shower Oils. The tree decorations contain a mini Bath & Shower Oil in either Light Relax or Support Breather. RRPs: from £10 to £65 020 8569 7030 aromatherapyassociates.com

BC Softwear

Comfort Zone Italian spa skincare brand Comfort Zone was inspired by “the beauty and vitality of blossoming nature” for its 2019 gifting collection. Each box is decorated with colourful illustrations and packaged with recycled paper. Options include Specialist Nourishing Hydrating Hand Kit with Specialist Hand Cream and Hand Oil, Tranquillity Aromatic Cleansing Moisturising Kit with Tranquillity Shower Cream and Body Lotion; and Sublime Replumping, Firming Face Kit, containing Sublime Skin Rich Cream, Serum and Eye Cream. Trade: from £7 020 3096 1752 comfortzoneskincare.co.uk

Spa textiles brand BC Softwear has dressed an adorable small teddy bear in a made-to-measure bathrobe for a cute Christmas gift. The teddy is available in brown or white with glass eyes and an embroidered nose, and the back of the robe can be emblazoned with a spa’s logo. True to life, the robe has its own belt that loops round and secures in a tie at the front. The bear could be added to a turn down service for hotel spas or sold at reception for an additional revenue stream at Christmas time. Trade: £4.75 excluding embroidery 0845 210 4000 bcsoftwear.co.uk

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Christmas Collections

140 Jessica There are three limited-edition glitter shades from Jessica in time for Christmas – dark blue Tis the Season, ruby red Naughty or Nice? and bronze A Toast to Jessica. There are also three gift sets including Winter Essentials, which contains Hand and Body Moisturising Emulsion, Midi Phenomen Oil and a nail file. From Jessica’s long-wear polish Phenom, the winter Arctic Wear collection includes three new shades: blue metallic Under the Mistletoe, aubergine metallic Frost Me Up and rich red FA LA LA Red. Trade: £5.50 each for the Shine Bright collection (£17.75 each in Geleration), from £5.40 for the gift sets; £6.75 each for the Phenom collection 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

BeautyPro The sheet mask company is launching two limited-edition gift sets for the festive season. BeautyPro Spa at Home comprises Detoxifying Mask with Activated Charcoal, Eye Therapy Under Eye Mask with Collagen & Green Tea, and Thermotherapy Gold Foil Mask with Hyaluronic Acid and Q10; while BarberPro Rejuvenating Mask Set contains men’s products Foaming Cleansing Mask with Activated Charcoal, Skin Renewing Foil Mask with Hyaluronic Acid & Q10, and Under Eye Mask. Trade: £4.98 each 01273 323232 beautypro.com/trade

Guinot White to Brown There are two new Christmas tanning collections from White to Brown, designed to give clients a golden glow in two shades. Each set pairs a tanning lotion with the brand’s Body Cleanse pH-balanced skin cleanser to prep pre-tan. The Let It Glow Golden Collection includes White to Brown Self Tanning Lotion Medium (250ml), a tanning cream infused with hydrating cocoa butter, shea butter and vitamins C & E; while the Let It Glow Dark Collection features the brand’s Self Tanning Lotion Dark, which offers full impact coverage for darker skin tones. Trade: £9.50 for the Golden Collection; £9.95 for Dark 0330 678 0321 whitetobrown.com

Guinot fans would be delighted to recieve anything from the brand’s Christmas gifing range. There’s the Shining Star Bauble, with either Huile Mirific or Eau Mirific; Hello Handsome, pairing Gel Nettoyant Visage and Crème Longue Vie Homme for men; and The Key to Relaxation, which contains Huile Mirific Gold, Douche Mirific and Mirific Scented Candle, all with a delicate passion flower fragrance. Other gift sets are also available. Trade: from £4.50 01344 873123 See Guinot uk.guinot.com

at PB North on stand D13

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Operational Advice

143

MAKING

apprentices work for

BEAUTY Apprentices have been a mainstay of hair salons for decades but are less common in beauty. Salon owner Michelle Brookes outlines the pros and cons, as well as the laws around training and wages

any salon owners struggle to find the perfect therapists for their business, but could taking on apprentices be the answer to the recruitment crisis? When I opened my salon Beauty Lounge in Doncaster 13 years ago, I invested in two apprentices, training them to my standards and paying them a low-cost wage. For me, the apprentice gamble paid off. Once qualified, I offered them full-time roles and both are still with me today. I believe high-street salons have a responsibility to train the next generation to help reach these much-needed employer standards, but there’s a lot of financial and time cost associated with doing so.

The numbers If you have fewer than 50 employees, you and your training provider will each receive a £1,000 government grant for every 16–18-year-old apprentice you take on. This also applies to 19–24-year-old apprentices who have been in care or have a local authority care plan. This is the Government’s way to persuade more small business owners to take on an apprentice. This grant is definitely a pro because it covers a couple of months’ wages, but it can take a while to get your first payment of £500, so be aware of this. I believe the Government should increase the grant to £2,000 as this would give employers extra funding to improve an apprentice’s CPD knowledge or introduce a new treatment to the salon for them to train in. I don’t regret taking on apprentices as all of mine have helped the salon to grow. However, there are a few things you should consider before to make

sure you have the time and capacity to take on an apprentice. You must pay them £3.90 per hour, and this reduced wage allows you to offer cheaper trainee treatment prices while they build up their clientele. As an apprentice doesn’t have a full column of clients, they can assist other therapists and nail techs in setting up treatments and cleaning afterwards. This saves time in the diary for other staff members, meaning you can book in an extra client per day.

Fresh approach You can train apprentices in your way of performing treatments so they don’t pick up bad habits, and this will make them ready to work on the salon floor when they leave college. However, be aware that having an apprentice does take you away from other jobs because that person needs to be trained in all the processes within your salon. They will only be able to do one day training per week with you, so won’t be flexible to assist in treatments on certain days. The Government states that employers and training providers should meet the 20% off-the-job training requirement for apprentices, meaning this could be another working day they aren’t available to assist you. PB

Michelle Brookes is owner of the Beauty Lounge in Doncaster and was a finalist in the Professional Beauty Awards 2019.

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145

New from Sweet Squared’s lash brand, Lashus Extensions will give techs the opportunity to create both classic and full-volume looks using a range of individual lashes and pre-made fans. The pre-made volume fans are heat bonded at the base, which Lashus says makes them lighter and easier to apply than fans made by gluing individual lashes together. As with the original Lashus Lift products, the brand’s new Extensions Adhesive has been developed with as few ingredients as possible to make it gentle without compromising on bonding and long-lasting adhesion. The treatment is launching with two courses: Straight to Volume, suitable for beginners and conversion, and Amplify, for trained lash technicians. Both offer a full day of training with more than four hours of practical. The treatment will launch in November with workshop dates due to be announced soon.

full EXTENT

Treatment News

Lashus Extensions

Treatment prices should vary depending on the look but Sweet Squared recommends charging from £55 for a classic treatment to £75 for a full-volume look. Call the company on 0333 000 7000

Two new lash extension brands make a debut, and we take a closer look at some impressive high-tech machine facials

This month we tried… Mesoestetic mesotherapy The lowdown: After writing a feature on skin needling for our July issue, I was keen to try mesotherapy for myself. I contacted Mesoestetic to arrange a treatment using its MCT Injector gun, and the brand booked me in to Thérapie Clinic on Wigmore Street in London. The MCT Injector uses a super-fine needle to deliver a cocktail of vitamins, hyaluronic acid, plant extracts and enzymes to stimulate collagen formation in the dermis, deeply hydrate from within and address any underlying issues. My therapist, Surabhi Kadel, needled to 1.5mm on me, and the treatment took around an hour including consultation. The experience: After having a look at my skin and talking to me about my concerns – the beginnings of fine lines and general dullness – Kadel decided on Mesohyal DMAE, one of the mesoestetic intradermal products for use with the device. DMAE is formulated

to firm tissues and is loaded with hyaluronic acid and organic silicone. She started with a double cleanse then sterilised my skin with an alcohol wipe. Kadel started with the gun on my cheeks to gauge how comfortable I would find it, as these are the most fleshy and least sensitive areas of the face. The needle felt like a tiny pinprick and was barely noticeable, although I do have a fairly high pain threshold. Kadel worked around my face in small movements, finishing on my upper lip, and then applied a post-procedure gel to soothe the skin, followed by antioxidant serum and SPF50 moisturiser from Therapie’s product range. The verdict: My skin felt slightly prickly immediately after the treatment but this quickly went down. There was no redness and I was impressed with the visible reduction in the fine lines in my nasolabial folds. I’m confident that if I had a course of treatments – Therapie recommends four to six sessions spaced 15 to 20 days apart – it would really start to address my textural issues and signs of ageing. Business benefits: Mesotherapy is a very comfortable treatment and while it treats slightly different indications than microneedling with a roller or pen, it’s a good alternative for younger clients with early signs of ageing or dullness caused by pollution. Tried by Georgia Seago Thérapie charges from £195 per session. Call Mesoestetic UK on 01625 529540 professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Treatment News

146 Lynton illumiFacial IllumiFacial is the next generation of Lynton’s photofacial treatments and uses a combination of specialist skincare and IPL technology. Designed to target the visible effects of ageing and harsh environmental conditions, IllumiFacial is a customisable treatment focused on improving skin tone. It can be performed using Lynton’s 3Juve, Excelight, Lumina or Luminette Advance, in combination with its Facial Cleanser, Tri-Fruit Acid Peel, Light Soothe, Stem Cell and Light Protect SPF skincare products. The facial begins with a deep cleanse, after which Tri-Fruit Acid Peel is applied to resurface skin texture and stimulate faster cell turnover. IPL is then applied to stimulate collagen and target any discolouration such as freckles, sun damage and broken capillaries. The treatment is then completed with the trio of specialist serums to soothe, hydrate and protect the skin.

Lynton Lasers recommends charging £199 for the facial, which takes between 45 and 60 minutes. Call the brand on 01477 536977

This month we tried… Moka & Sarah lash extensions The lowdown: New lash extensions brand Moka & Sarah is officially launching to market with distributor Re:New Beauty, formally Biosculpture UK. Headed up by Moka Kanai and Sarah Darnley, the brand trains lash technicians in its combination of Japanese and exclusive techniques developed by the brand itself. When researching for the company, Kanai visited 32 countries to create techniques that work on the hair and lash types of different ethnicities. One of the brand’s USPs is its use of tape work instead of gel under eye pads to protect the lower lashes. The tapes have a waterproof barrier and are used both to be more comfortable for clients and so as not to distort the upper lash line, making the technician’s job easier. The experience: Kanai created a full set of lashes for me at Re:New’s new HQ. We decided on a soft, fluffy look that tapered out slightly in the outer corners of my eyes to elongate the shape. She explained she’d be using the brand’s Japanese

feathering technique with its sculpting and grafting application, whereby the extension is wrapped to the natural lash with 90% contact. Japanese feathering is used to create definition with soft split tips, and Kanai wove the lashes through my lash line using careful spacing to make the eyes appear slightly larger. I couldn’t feel a thing throughout the application, and personally found Kanai’s use of tape far more comfortable than gel pads, as in the past these have irritated my eyes and caused them to water, affecting their adhesiveness. She worked efficiently but delicately and my eyes didn’t sting or water at all when she removed the tape and asked me to open my eyes. The verdict: My extensions were slightly longer than I’ve had in the past, but because of the spacing and softness, they weren’t too dramatic. I got a solid four weeks’ wear out of them and found they came off easily using a home-use extension remover. Business benefits: Moka & Sarah’s use of Japanese tape work is more cost effective and better for the environment than gel pads, though the brand does teach the use of pads in certain cases when they work better with the client’s bone structure. Prices are set higher than the market average so that technicians don’t have to rush through clients to earn good revenue, and can instead take their time delivering a premium treatment. Tried by Georgia Seago Moka & Sarah recommends charging between £120– £200 in London and between £30– £120 elsewhere in the UK. Call distributor Re:New Beauty on 03333 111555

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E G A E L L T N HY A IL S

RENEWBEAUTY.CO.UK

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Treatment News

148

Spotlight

3D-HydrO2 Facial and 3D-Ultimatepro

Aesthetics specialist 3D-lipo has developed two new machines. 3D-Ultimatepro is the next generation of its 3D-Ultimate machine, offering fat reduction, cellulite and skin tightening; while 3D-HydrO2 Facial is a completely new concept, designed to target hydration, oxygenation, anti-ageing, brightening, skin tightening and congestion.

3D-HydrO2 Facial The new facial machine offers seven modalities within one device, meaning five different treatments can be offered to clients: Essential and Superior facials for anti-ageing, Essential and Superior facials for brightening, and the Essential facial for aiding with congestion. Each treatment combines all seven modalities: Hydro Peel uses a combination of three solutions: one with AHAs to exfoliate, an rholigopeptide-1 and acetyl hexapeptide-8based one to hydrate, and a BHA solution to help with bacteria and inflammation. Deep Cleanse allows oxygen to be drawn into the skin. The active ingredients used are kojic acid and retinol for hydrating and brightening. Oxygenation involves a spray that creates a venturi effect, breaking down the molecules within the product to encourage product penetration and hydration. Skin Lifting uses electroporation to increase the absorbency of the cell for product penetration. This, in turn, revitalises dull and lifeless skin. Skin Tightening uses radiofrequency technology to increase collagen production. Hydration uses ultrasound technology for product infusion, using products from the 3D-Professional Solutions Time Defence Expression skincare range.

Cryo Facial is a handpiece that uses heat to open the pores, increasing blood supply and evening skin tone, as well as cold to tighten pores following product penetration. “After the client’s had a condensed course of eight treatments, this is a monthly treatment so it’s good for client retention,” says managing director Roy Cowley. “We’re planning a major celebrity PR campaign towards the end of this year to get a buzz going, once we’ve secured a good distribution base.”

3D-Ultimatepro The 3D-Ultimatepro has been under development for a year, manufactured under ISO13485 standards. During the process, 3D-lipo consulted with customers to get feedback on improving the 3D-Ultimate platform. The new device has been designed to be more ergonominc and comfortable to operate. It offers cryolipolysis, cavitation, radiofrequency and shockwave technologies. Feature upgrades include medical-grade silicone duo cryolipolysis applicators, vacuum incorporated into the radiofrequency to improve contact and lymphatic drainage, and more robust connector points with a tidy wire and rack design. 3D-HydrO2 Facial and 3D-Ultimatepro will be officially launched to the market at PB North on October 13–14, where visitors will be able to view live treatment demos. Call the brand on 01788 220452 3d-lipo.co.uk

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11/09/2019 12:54

151 New Products

Sothys There are two new launches from the French spa skincare brand. The Detox Energie line is formulated to tackle ageing caused by pollution, detoxifying and energising for more luminous, youthful-looking skin. Key ingredients are organic elderberry extract, detoxifying peptides and organic Siberian ginseng root extract. The line includes Instant Corrector, Depolluting Essence, Serum, and Depolluting Youth Cream. Also new is the AW19 make-up collection, Bleu Envoûtant, comprising seven products. Trade: from £6 for Detox Energie, from £4.75 for the make-up 01303 262666 sothys-uk.co.uk

Hydrate AND

heal

As the weather begins to turn cold, this month’s launches feature products to restore moisture to stressed skin

Elemis

Advanced Nutrition Programme IIAA’s nutrition brand has launched premium supplement Skin Moisture Lock. It contains hyaluronic acid to smooth and plump the skin, combined with ceramides to seal in moisture at the epidermal layer and help support the skin’s barrier. While it is traditionally difficult to combine oil-based actives, such as ceramides, with water-based ones like hyaluronic acid, Advanced Nutrition Programme (ANP) has achieved this in its soft gel formulation. The product is recommended for clients with aged, dehydrated or sensitive skin and for those exposed to pollution. Trade: £35 for 60 softgels 020 8450 2020 iiaa.eu

Pro-Collagen Rose Facial Oil is a lightweight dry oil formulated to smooth the appearance of fine lines and boost hydration to help achieve a dewy finish. Key ingredients come from a trio of nourishing rose extracts: soothing English rose oleo, delicately fragranced rosa damascene, and nourishing rosehip seed oil to replenish and support the skin’s lipid barrier. It also includes Mediterranean algae and padina pavonica. RRP: £67 for 15ml 0117 316 1888 elemis.com

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New Products

152 Nimue The cosmeceutical skincare brand has launched its core homecare products in mini sizes – 15ml, 20ml or 30ml – for new clients to trial the range or for existing fans to travel with. Products available in mini sizes include Cleansing Gel, Cleansing Gel Lite, Conditioner, Exfoliating Enzyme, Nimue Day, Moisturiser Plus/Nimue Night, Purifier, Moisture Light, Sun-C SPF40, Sun-C Environmental Shield SPF50, Element Barrier and Active Hand Repair. Trade: from £5.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Lash Perfect

BeautyLab

Designed for use with its Magnetise magnetic strip lashes, Lash Perfect has launched Magnetic Liner and Magnetic Remover. The dual-application system makes it easier to apply the lashes. Magnetic Liner is applied like a normal liner but contains tiny magnetic fibres to adhere to the band of the lashes. The liner is British made and EU compliant, and the brand says it stays in place all day. The remover must be used to remove the liner and prevent staining. Trade: £7.50 for the liner, £4.95 for the remover 020 8500 9028 (The Eyelash Design Company) lashperfect.co.uk

The latest retail product from advanced skincare brand BeautyLab is Cooling Eye Gel, formulated to reduce irritation, puffiness and dark circles. The soothing gel contains hydrating aloe vera, bladderwrack seaweed to soothe and reduce inflammation, rosemary to boost the lymph microcirculation around the eyes and provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, cucumber to cool, and calming chamomile, particularly good for soothing sensitive skin. Trade: £10.50 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

RefectoCil New from lash and brow tinting specialist RefectoCil is the Eyelash Lift Kit, containing everything a technician needs to complete a lash lift. The lash perm formula uses collagen to help moisturise lashes and cysteine to protect and strengthen. There are 36 applications within the kit, which also contains two lifting pads in three sizes, two tubes of neutraliser, one Eyelash Curl & Lift Bottle Glue, one rosewood stick, two mini cosmetic dishes and two cosmetic brushes. Trade: £74 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com

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New Products

153

INK London New from the specialist nail brand comes a line of high-quality crystals for use in nail art. These flat-backed crystals come without hot fix adhesive and are available in the brand’s Crystal and Crystal AB styles and in sizes SS4, SS6 and SS8. Trade: £2.08 for a bag of 100 01706 260069 inknails.com

Jane Iredale

Dr’s Remedy

The latest launch from the mineral make-up brand is Beyond Matte Liquid Foundation. Designed to provide all-day coverage with a semi-matte finish, it can be used as a multitasking primer, concealer and foundation. The adaptable colour formulation adjusts to match skin tone and even out the complexion. It is particularly suited to clients with combinationoily skin and is available in 18 shades. Trade: £20 for 27ml 020 8450 2020 iiaa.eu

New from podiatristformulated nail brand Dr’s Remedy comes Enriched Cuticle Oil. Designed for everyday use, it contains extracts of lavender, safflower, tea tree oil and algae extract to hydrate and smooth rough, cracked cuticles. The formulation is vegan-friendly and safe for diabetics, and is designed to be quickly absorbed to avoid any greasy residue. Trade: £13.30 01484 641010 dltpodiatry.co.uk

Artdeco The AW19 Cross the Lines collection by Artdeco is inspired by modern, graphic art. Long-Lasting Liquid Liner Intense comes in four colours; while Beauty Box Trio is an eyeshadow box for storing magnetic-based eyeshadows – choose from new autumn/winter shades Pearly Brown Illusion, Pearly Emerald, Glam Golden City, Pearly Purple Forest, Matt Brick and Matt Petrol. For the lips, there are two new Perfect Colour Lipsticks in shimmering reds Offbeat or Red Rebel; High Performance Lipsticks in earthy tones Spicy Darling and Kiss of a Muse; and Hydra Lip Booster in nude Translucent Sparkling Muse. A three-colour Blush Couture palette and limited-edition Volume Sensation Mascara complete the collection. RRP: from £10.80 to £22.50 028 9061 7403 (Chleo Enterprises) chleoenterprises.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

154

Love’s Nature Italian make-up brand Love’s Nature by Equilibra has launched into the UK with a 14-product range. The products contain up to 100% natural ingredients, including argan oil, shea butter, apricot seed oil and aloe vera. The range includes Compact Bronzing Power, Compact Foundation, Compact Face Powder, Stick Concealer, Compact Concealer, Volumizing Mascara, Kajal, Fluid Foundation, Eyeshadow, Blush, Eye Pencil, Lip Pencil, Lipstick and Lipgloss. Trade: from £10.14 020 3239 1838 lovesnature.it

Jessica Get Your Neon On is a new capsule collection from Jessica, featuring three brights in the brand’s Custom Colour polish. The new shades are hot pink Fluorescent Flamingo; striking azure Blazing Blue; and Vivid Violet, a rich bright purple. The colours would be a great fit for clients looking for vibrant tones to see them through those transitional warm autumn days. Trade: £5.50 per 0.5oz bottle 0345 217 1360 gerrardinternational.com

Pevonia Launching in October, Pevonia’s Marine Magnesium is formulated to target muscular tension, pain and inflammation. Its primary ingredient is magnesium chloride from the mineral-rich waters of the Iroise Sea. Pevonia’s light, seawater-infused gel can be used all over the body, either alone or mixed with massage oil. The accompanying treatment, Marine Magnesium Instant Relief Therapeutic Massage, can be offered as one-hour therapy or a 10-minute targeted add-on. Trade: £16.50 for 100ml 01449 727000 pevonia.co.uk

Light Elegance There are two new collections from Light Elegance. Reformulated neon Gel Paints cure at both 365 and 405nm. The collection includes purple, pink, orange, yellow, green and blue. Also new is the Shibui Buttercream collection for AW19. Inspired by grounding yoga and a calm transition between summer and winter, the shades are: Downward Dog, burnt orange; Mantra Mauve; Show me Your Chakra, metallic rose gold; Inhale Exhale, berry mauve; Now & Zen, muddy purple taupe; and Finding Tranquillity, deep ink blue. Trade: £12.45 each for Gel Paints, £15.45 each for Buttercreams 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

156 BuzzBalm Beauty

Pineapple Express

Celebrity make-up artist and beauty presenter Armand Beasley is launching his first product to the beauty market with BuzzBalm, a British brand that makes skin products from beehive ingredients using sustainable practices. Pro Body Glow is a 100% natural body balm that gives a high-shine finish to skin. Ingredients include organic bee pollen, olive oil and frankincense, and the balm is packaged in a gold aluminium tin. Trade: £12.50 for 85g 0800 093 5003 probodyglow.co.uk

US tanning brand South Seas is now distributed in the UK exclusively through Strip Distribution. Its latest launch is a collection of three body care products called Pineapple Express, all containing organic hemp-sourced CBD. Body Butter has 100mg CBD, shea butter, coconut oil and avocado to moisturise and restore dry skin, eczema and psoriasis. Joint Balm is formulated to soothe joint and muscle aches, with added hemp seed oil and 150mg CBD; and Gold CBD Drops have a natural orange flavour and hemp oil extract with 600mg CBD. Trade: from £20 020 7590 9300 (Strip Distribution) lyconuk.com

Skinceuticals

Mii New from make-up brand Mii is the Minerals Beautiful Basics Kit, a box containing four of the brand’s mineral products, available in nine colour options. The kit comprises Irresistible Face Base, a breathable foundation suitable to apply post-facial; Exquisite Eye Colour, two highly pigmented, creamy powders; and Radiant Natural Blush, for a flush of colour. Also included is Eye Apply and Define Brush and Precise Mineral Kabuki Brush, both cruelty-free. Trade: £28.85 0345 217 1360 gerrardinternational.com

Discoloration Defence Serum is a multi-phase treatment product for targeting visible discolouration, delivering a brighter, more even skin tone. The serum is formulated to address pigmentation triggered by inflammatory processes like hormonal changes and acne scarring. It contains 1.8% tranexamic acid, 5% niacinamide and 5% sulfonic acid, a synthetically derived acid that activates natural enzymes in the skin for even exfoliation. RRP: £85 for 30ml 0800 028 2331 skinceuticals.co.uk

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11/09/2019 12:37

JOBS FIND YOUR DREAM JOB TODAY

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158

Classified

CALL GABRIEL LARTEY on 020 3841 7376 or email gabriel@hji.co.uk

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Offering a range of 1 day courses or Diploma courses in NVQâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S for beginners or existing therapists looking to update their skill set.

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11/09/2019 15:41

Pink Fishes Full MAY.qxp_Layout 1 16/04/2019 15:37 Page 1

Introducing our new unique training school, pinkfishestraining.com

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Special offers: Olympia Beauty Show - 29th & 30th September 2019, Stand B88 & Professional Beauty Show, Manchester - 13th & 14th October 2019, Stand K78. Individual, Russian, Mixed, Mega Volume or Brown (3 for £25) Pre-Fanned, Flat lashes or Camellia lash trays (3 for £35) Lash Pillow £25 All our glues £18 MUA Strip Lashes (11 for £20) MUA Strip Lashes (15 for £25) Pink Elixir (rentention maximiser) £15 Pink Refine (shampoo) £10

The training school complements our beautiful eyelash company, pinkfishes.com supplying over 200 varieties of lashes and accessories worldwide. Annie and myself (Tina) have had the privilege of working with so many talented and inspiring therapists over the past 16 months that we felt that a training school would be a brilliant addition to pinkfishes.com. We are also really excited as later this year we will be opening up a further training school in Birmingham. Our new training school offers all the latest techniques in eyelash extensions, lash lift treatments, and each student will be accredited by The Guild. Our trainers have over 15 years’ experience and students will be given every tool available to be part of the ever-growing beauty world... Our courses include kits worth £100.00, lunch on the day, 1 hour mentoring session, 15% discount voucher for 3 months available to spend at pinkfishes.com and ongoing support. We offer a number of courses to suit everyone’s needs and offer in house training should you want us to visit you in your own salon

ALONG WITH ALL THE LASHES THAT ARE ON OFFER, WE ALSO HAVE A WIDE RANGE OF GLUES AND ACCESSORIES TO COMPLEMENT OUR PRODUCTS.

All our products are cruelty free and vegan We would love you to visit us at pinkfishes.com

Office: 01245 475912

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Mobile: 07538 198484

Email: pinkfishestraining@mail.com

11/09/2019 15:42

Career Path

160

How to make it as a...

cruise ship

THERAPIST

Lee Ann Galloway, manager of LivNordic Spa on the Viking Sun cruise liner, walks us through what it takes to operate on open water and why it’s so fulfilling

1. Learn to love life at sea “I went into the industry with a greater interest in travel than I did beauty because it was, honestly, something I never saw myself doing long term. My dream was to make some money and experience the world, but now I don’t even get off the ship that often. The sea becomes your home, and there are so many interesting things that come with living on a ship because it’s a little, floating world of its own. I don’t know if I could be a therapist or a spa manager on-land because my soul is out here.”

2. Work for the right team “I have absolutely hated some of the places I’ve worked for before. You could set up your treatment room and go to get your guest, only to return and find someone had stolen your chair or nail file. There was also a lot of pressure to retail. I would say that previous cruise lines expected it to be about 30% of my revenue. “With Viking, I honestly have no complaints about my team or head office. They’re happy if we maintain 8% revenue and morale is always high. We stick together to ensure that the spa is clean and our duties are done.”

3. You need to be patient “The biggest challenge of running the operation on a ship is that things like the hot water tap can break and they take time to fix. It’s not like I can just phone a plumber and wait for them to knock on my door. They try to get these things done as efficiently as possible but, when you’re working on a 24-hour operation, it’s almost like nothing can be fast enough. On my previous contract, there was a power outage in the restaurant

and it affected the connection to our steam room. There’s little things like that that go hand in hand that I’ve learned over the years.”

4. Adjust to a flexible schedule “There is no set pattern. It completely depends on scheduling, where we’re docked and what time we arrive or set sail. I often don’t care to know because it’s probably going to change. “It’s a lot of hard work and the hours are long, but we make sure everyone is rested and happy. We don’t count hour for hour, and we really do believe in give and take. When someone opens the spa early, they get a three-hour lunch as opposed to the normal hour. There’s plenty of time to get off the ship and explore or spend their breaks in nice cafés or restaurants if they want.”

5. Be sociable and understanding “You have to be willing to do whatever it takes to make the guests happy. If that means working half an hour overtime, then you do it. Be sociable and accepting, because you work with people from so many different nationalities and people that can’t really speak English. “It’s also great working with staff that come from all over the world because they bring so much experience and knowledge. You’ll say goodbye to people then end up seeing them again a year later, it’s like a family. I think socialising and joking around with your team helps with the overall vibe. As long as we’re sticking together and making sure everything is done then the team is happy, I’m happy and most importantly, the guests are happy.” PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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11/09/2019 12:40

UK s Leading Microblading, Nanoblading & Aesthetics Training Academy VISIT US ON STAND F45

EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019

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17/07/2019 12:30

Learn the latest Nanoblading techniques with LVC Nanoblading

Korean Nanoblading • Microblading • Lip Liner & Lip Blush • Eyeliner • Areola Scalp Micropigmentation • Hyaluron Pen • BB Glow • Dermaplaning Award Winning Training

To receive our 30 page Nanoblading & Microblading guide, Text or WhatsApp: Name & Email Address to 07824 36 55 33 to have our guide posted to you

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17/07/2019 16:55

Advanced

Performance TREATMENTS AND PRODUCTS Our beautiful brand began when skincare expert Kirsti Shuba met top facialist Donna Tait. With over 65 years' industry experience and a powerful vision of providing ‘Better Skin for Life’ they joined forces with the world’s best cosmetics scientists to create Katherine Daniels.

Five years later Katherine Daniels is the lead skincare brand for over 350 salons with more opening every month. Kirsti and Donna remain at the heart of this family brand creating advanced performance treatments and products, always true to an efficient, uncomplicated 4-step skin prescription process.

Your clients deserve Better Skin for Life. We’d love to speak with you to make that happen. W: www.katherinedanielscosmetics.com T: 01767 68 22 88, E: info@katherinedanielscosmetics.com

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10/06/2019 14:59