AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS
FRESH PAINT NEW CUTTING-EDGE BUT SUBTLE SPMU TECHNIQUES
SNEAK PEEK THE BIG-BRAND LAUNCHES PLANNED FOR PB NORTH
September 2019 | professionalbeauty.co.uk
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STRIKE A BALANCE
TACKLING PRODUCT OVERLOAD IN CLIENTS’ SKINCARE ROUTINES
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AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS
JOIN US IN OCTOBER NEW VENUE, NEW OPPORTUNITIES
AT THE HEART OF YOUR PROFESSION September 2019 | professionalbeauty.co.uk
A day spent at Professional Beauty North will leave you inspired and confident to achieve your business and career goals
EVENTCITY MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019 REGISTER FOR YOUR FREE TICKET www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/north Ticket hotline: 0844 5868 187 GET INVOLVED AND KEEP UP-TO-DATE #PBNorth @pro_beauty
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Professional Beauty North is open only to trade and professional visitors over the age of 14. Under no circumstances will babies, prams, pushchairs or buggies be permitted. Your entrance badge will be emailed to you 2-3 weeks before the show. Please print it and bring it with you for entry.
New ideas from our inspirational speakers
Take a first look at the 2020 trends
Identify the tools you need to succeed
See, touch and compare100s of products
Free training, live demonstrations and business support
INVEST IN A DAY FOR YOUR BUSINESS AND CAREER AT PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NORTH Save the £20 entrance fee and register for your free ticket at www.professionalbeauty. co.uk/pbmag Quote promotional code PBMAG for a chance to win £250 to spend at the show
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For more information or to contact your Payot representative E: payot@alanhoward.co.uk T: 07515 819513
JOIN US AT PROFESSIONAL BE AUT Y NORTH 13 th -14 th Oc tober 2019 EventCity Manches ter Stand No: D19
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COMING SOON
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Come and see us on stand D11 at Professional Beauty North to see how we can support your business. EventCity, Manchester, 13-14 October 2019.
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Regulars 13 News Campaign to promote professionalism in beauty; women cut skincare routines
Contents
Sep
Contents
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27 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 28 Social surgery The latest changes to Instagram explained 33 Out & about Behind the scenes at the biggest parties 39 Insider Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 47 Ward’s world Getting your brand presence right on and offline 51 Ask the experts Mastering bespoke lashes and a streak-free tan 103 Hot topic How mobile beauty is impacting salon custom 110 S pa launches The biggest spa launches happening this autumn 119 Operational Advice What to do if somebody resigns during an argument
Features 56 The best just got better Details on how to enter the PB Awards 2020 61 Talking to… Eve Taylor The aromatherapy brand founder shares her views on industry regulation 85 School’s in session The education programme taking place at PB North 89 All in the mind Lizzie Falconer on PB’s new Natural & Holistic Live Stage 92 Game on Enter PB’s lash, make-up and nail championships
121 Treatment news New extensions from Novalash
112 Making waves How Mullion Cove Spa is making the most of its coastal setting
125 New products Latest launches from CND, Dermalogica and more
115 New direction Re:New Beauty unveils its new brands and future plans
136 Career Path VTCT’s Sonia Robinson on making it as an assessor
117 Retail therapy How So Me Beauty Bar in Redhill nailed its interior design
On the cover 69 10 reasons why salon owners visit PB North The biggest beauty show in the North is back on October 13–14 at new venue EventCity. Salon owners tell us what they’re most excited to see and we round-up the hot product launches 95 Lasting impression We look at the gamechanging developments in semi-permanent make-up and explore the hottest trends, including how to create faux freckles, natural lips, and powdered brows and liner 104 Too much of a good thing? Layering “miracle” products to achieve glowing skin has become the new norm, but these complex routines are starting to have an adverse effect. We investigate the rise of product overload Cover image: Dorothy Perkins
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The issue of clients overstimulating their skin by layering high-strength products is one that most therapists are all too familiar with. Actives like retinol and vitamin C are popping up in off-the-shelf retail products, meaning consumers are selfprescribing, often with detrimental effects. We explore solutions to this issue in our feature on page 104. However, it looks as though the tide could be turning, with new statistics indicating that UK women, particularly millennials, are turning their backs on their 10-step K-Beauty regimes and cutting down the number of products they use (see page 13). Whether your clients need a skin detox or a multi-tasking power product, the role of the beauty professional has never been more important, to help them cut through the abundance of conflicting online information and find the products that work for them. It’s with this in mind that Professional Beauty is launching the #beYOUbePRO campaign to champion beauty professionals and demonstrate the amazing work you do for your clients on a daily basis, the qualifications and skills you have, and the training you continue to undertake to give clients the best experience. Find out how you and your team can get involved on page 13. #beYOUbePRO is also the theme for the upcoming Professional Beauty North show in Manchester, and this year there’s a host of new seminar programmes and stages to inspire pros from every sector of the industry. The Trend Watch stage will deliver business ideas on everything from CBD to sustainability, while the new Aesthetic Therapist Agenda explores plasma, mesotherapy, LED and much more. Check out our full show preview from page 69 for all the info you need.
Editor
@Pro_Beauty01
@Pro_Beauty
INSURANCE Get Professional Beauty Direct insurance cover from just £52.50 a year or £72.25 a year with your subscription. Professional Nails Direct starts at just £39.50. You can now book and manage your insurance online at professional beautydirect.co.uk or call the team on 0345 605 8670
SUBSCRIBE NEW: membership benefits when you subscribe. Gold Membership UK: £37; Europe: £44; outside Europe: £49.50 To receive your copy of Professional Beauty every month call 01371 851875 or visit hairandbeauty.escosubs.co.uk Silver Membership: £10 To view full issues on your desktop, tablet or smartphone, see hairandbeauty.escosubs.co.uk Published by Trades Exhibitions Ltd Editorial enquiries: 020 7351 0536 editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk Advertising enquiries: 020 7351 0536 We’ve moved! Our new address is: Trades Exhibitions, Allington House, High Street, Wimbledon, SW19 5DX
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Caroline Ruston caroline.r@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4798
Editor: Eve Oxberry eve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7378
Amanda Strange amanda.s@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4793
Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley amanda@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9064 Features editor: Georgia Seago georgia@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9063 Social media editor: Chris Halpin chris@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7368 Intern: Kieran Read editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk Sales director: Steve James steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Jack Diamond jack@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4792
Sibel Suleyman sibel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4794 Classified and recruitment sales: Nur Tanyeri nur@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4796 Publisher: Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4799 Design and production: ICD, imagecreativedesign.co.uk Printing: Walstead, walstead-uk.com The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.
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13 News
News Campaign launches to promote qualified professionals and diverse careers in beauty Professional Beauty has launched #beYOUbePRO, a campaign to champion qualified professionals in the beauty industry and show the breadth of careers that training in beauty can lead to. Professional Beauty Group director Mark Moloney said: “We need to do more to promote the quality and value that our qualified therapists, salons and spas give to people across the country. “This campaign is the start of something that we hope will engage all of you great professionals and help us all get the recognition that our industry deserves.” #beYOUbePRO kicks off this month with a social media competition linked to the upcoming Professional Beauty North and Ireland exhibitions, as well as our sister hair show Salon International. The competition invites professionals to share what makes them proud to work in the industry, what motivates
them and why beauty, spa, nails or hair is a rewarding career. There are four categories for entry: salon owner, student, freelancer and salon worker, meaning there will be four winners per show. Every winner will receive a £500 cash prize, along with the option to select an additional prize from choices including business consultancy, in-salon training, a product hamper and magazine coverage. To enter, post either a short video (maximum 60 seconds) or an image with caption (max. 150 words) to Instagram or Facebook, explaining why you love being a beauty professional. Include hashtags for #beYOUbePRO as well as the show
you intend to visit: #PBNorth, #PBIreland or #Salon19. Winners will be announced at the shows. Salon International takes place on October 5–7 at ExCeL, London. Professional Beauty North will run at EventCity, Manchester, on October 13–14. Professional Beauty Ireland is held at RDS Dublin on October 20–21.
UK women cut number of products in skincare routines
Women are going back to basics with their skincare regimes, with 28% having reduced the number of products in their routine over the past year, according to analyst
Mintel’s UK Women’s Facial Skincare Report. Women are now opting for simplicity over multi-step regimes, with the number of those using just one product to cleanse their face rising from 25% in 2018 to 28% in the 12 months to May 2019, and many dropping toners entirely, with sales falling from 29% to 25% in the same period. Facial cleansing wipes have also fallen out of favour, dropping from 54% to 43%, the report found. Millennial women are the group most likely to simplify their routines, with 54% having already removed products. “A growing number of UK women are turning away from the multi-step K-Beauty routine,” said
Mintel global skincare analyst Alex Fisher. “This need for simplicity has pushed them towards minimalist skincare products with more intense active ingredients, such as serums and oils.” Usage of face products in general has also taken a tumble, with the number of women using a day moisturiser dropping from 66% to 60% and night cream from 48% to 44%. Meanwhile, usage of blemish balm (BB), colour correct (CC) and daily defence (DD) creams have slumped from 21% to 15%. As a result, Mintel has predicted that the women’s facial skincare market will decline by nearly 1% this year, falling to an estimated £1.6 billion from £1.17bn in 2018. professionalbeauty.co.uk
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// Aesthetic Technology, manufacturer of Dermalux LED systems, has achieved Medical CE certification for its new Dermalux MD range, meaning it conforms with health and safety standards in the EU, and also with the new Medical Device Regulation (MDR) which comes into force in May 2020. It allows Dermalux MD professionals to state medical claims for LED treatment of acne, psoriasis, skin rejuvenation and more. // This year’s Federation of Holistic Therapists (FHT) conference, held in London on November 29, will focus on supporting an integrated healthcare agenda. Speakers include Dr Fiona Holland, a massage therapist and senior lecturer in psychology at the University of Derby, who will discuss negative body image. Book at fht.org.uk/conference // Rudding Park Spa in Harrogate has taken on British skincare brand Elemis. Spa manager Sarah Johnson said: “We pride ourselves on offering guests an exceptional level of personalised service and this partnership is the perfect fit.”
Beauty industry contributes more than £28 billion to the economy UK consumers spent £1.4 billion on beauty services in 2018, contributing to the beauty industry’s overall value of £28.4bn. The figures come from a report by Oxford Economics, commissioned by The British Beauty Council, an organisation founded to represent the industry. The beauty industry’s total contribution to UK GDP in 2018 – including treatment providers, retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers – equated to 1.3% of the UK’s total GDP last year. Beauty and hair service providers made the largest direct contribution, totalling £4.7bn. Beauty and holistic service providers specifically contributed £1.4bn; out of a total spend on services of £8bn. The largest beauty industry employment share came from service providers such as beauty and hair salons
Three aesthetics training providers in trouble over misleading students
// Tanning brand Sienna X has teamed up with charity Marie Curie to raise money for its Giving Back campaign, which supports nurses who provide palliative care. Sienna X is running a competition to nominate a nurse to win a free spa day and luxury tanning package. // Pevonia is now the exclusive treatment brand at the spa at DoubleTree by Hilton, Cadbury House in North Somerset. The spa will use the natural skincare brand for face and body treatments, as well as retailing its product line.
and spas, employing 150,300 people, 33% of the total of 370,200 workers employed in the beauty industry in 2018 – equating to 1.1% of all the employment in the UK. 32,600 people were employed in beauty and holistic services specifically. The British Beauty Council will launch the first London Beauty Week to celebrate the industry from September 11-15 in Covent Garden, with trade and consumer events taking place.
The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) has found several aesthetic treatment training businesses guilty of misleading advertising, prompting The National Beauty Federation (NBF) to issue a warning to therapists to carefully research their chosen training providers. Aesthetics Lounge Academy in Birmingham, The Aesthetics Uni in
Warrington and Boss Babes Uni in Liverpool were reported to the ASA by the Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP). In all three cases the ASA upheld the complaints and advised that the three companies “had misrepresented or withheld full and correct information for potential students to be enabled to make an informed decision before contractually entering the courses advertised”. In response, the NBF has advised practitioners to make sure they fully understand the nature of the qualification they’ll receive upon course completion and check this against the entry requirements of further education or professional registers they wish to join.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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inbrief
// Skin Deep salon in Doncaster is celebrating its fourth birthday with the launch of Skin Deep Professional Academy. Run by Jody Taylor, PB Therapist of the Year in 2017, the academy will offer VTCT-recognised Level 4 aesthetic qualifications from October. Taylor is offering a 20% course discount to the first 50 PB readers who book, quoting PBR20%. // The Soil Association’s Organic Beauty & Wellbeing Week will take place on September 9–14 with the theme “one small swap can make a world of difference”. The campaign is encouraging consumers to switch a product in their routine to a brand that promotes sustainability. // Grayshott Medical Spa in Surrey has launched a medical clinic under the supervision of medical director Dr Ursula Levine. It offers private consultations, physical examinations, health assessments, prescriptions and referrals, following Grayshott’s recent Care Quality Commission (CQC) registration. // Galgorm Spa & Golf Resort in Ballymena, Northern Ireland, has announced Aromatherapy Associates as its exclusive partner. The spa is the first in the UK to offer the brand’s new Forest Therapy Collection (see page 126) and treatment, which includes a back and leg massage, mud mask and scalp ritual. // German cosmeceutical brand QMS Medicosmetics has undergone a brand refresh, with new packaging to communicate its results-driven formulations. The company has also cut down on single-use plastics by reducing its primary packaging by up to 50% and phasing out excessive secondary packaging.
Inflammatory skin conditions shown to have major impact on lifestyle
There is a clear link between inflammatory skin conditions and quality of life, according to data collated in Raconteur’s Skin and Dermatology Report. It showed that sufferers of severe psoriasis were found by the Happiness Research Institute to have a happiness level of 4.2, three points below the UK average of 7.2.
Meanwhile, 33% of rosacea patients, assessed on the impact of the skin condition on their quality of life in research by Galderma, said they avoid alcohol consumption and 24% steer clear of hot climates. Similarly, the Eczema Society of Canada asked respondents how atopic dermatitis interrupts their life. 79% had interrupted or loss of sleep, 64% said it gives them anxiety and 48% avoid social activities. Finally, 44% of acne patients were found to suffer from at least one mental health condition, compared with 20% of those without acne, according to the British Journal of Dermatology.
West Ham United women’s team appoints football’s first-ever skin consultant The West Ham United women’s team has appointed a skin consultant to give advice to players on how to care for their skin on and off the pitch – the first football team in history to do so. Dr Raul Cetto, who works with the team’s key sponsor ZO Skin Health, will help the players take a proactive approach to skincare. “Skin is a very underrated part of a health routine,” said Cetto. “In West Ham United women’s players, we’re talking about high-performance athletes. Footballers are constantly
West Ham United players with skin consultant Dr Raul Cetto
exposed to ultraviolet radiation because of the sun, so the players’ skin really needs taking care of.”
Clare Cockell launches The Treatment Room at Barham Court, Maidstone
Clare Cockell, wellness coach and founder of The Reef Spa in Maidstone, Kent, has opened a new treatment space at English country house Barham Court, also in Maidstone.
The Treatment Room is focused on mental wellbeing and has a menu of rituals that work to reduce the effects of stress and anxiety caused by a lack of wellness in the workplace. “I was drawn to Barham Court not only for its peaceful surroundings, which offer a tranquil place for luxury treatments, but because I also understand the importance of bringing wellness into the corporate space,” said Cockell.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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W o r l d R e n o w n e d A w a r d - W i n n i n g S p a B ra n d
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inbrief
// Lash Perfect has launched #LoveMyLift, a social media campaign to show the benefits of lash lifts, using images of real women and men who have had the treatment. It demonstrates to clients how low maintenance a lift is, while explaining to lash techs the pros of adding the treatment to their menu. // Mineral make-up brand Jane Iredale won Best Eyeliner for its Mystikol Powdered Eyeliner at the 2019 Natural Health Awards. Judges were impressed with the product’s water-resistant powder/cream formula and removable brush, which helps create a long-lasting smoky eye. // Cidesco, the international standard for beauty and spa therapy, has launched an International Guide to Beauty and Spa Management. From managing staff and budgets to daily operations, it provides guidance as well as rounding up the best courses. Download the guide at cidesco.com // Sweet Squared (S2) is hosting an Up Close & Personal tour with Light Elegance Ambassador Celina Rydén. The nail art influencer will share her skills at courses in London (September 29), Leeds (September 30) and Edinburgh (October 1). Book at sweetsquared.com // Laser manufacturer Lynton held a staff conference in Manchester as part of its 25th birthday celebrations. The company also had a Lynton Bee statue made to commemorate its roots – the bee is a symbol of Manchester’s hard-working reputation and many of them can be found around the city.
Beauty Industry Organisations Group formed to protect rights of therapists A new group of representatives from key industry organisations has been formed to tackle issues facing the industry. Aided by the All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) that was set up earlier this year to represent the industry in government, the Beauty Industry Left to right: Caroline Larissey, JCCP/NBF; Hilary Hall, NBF; Organisations Group is formed of Christine Hartigan, UKSA; Gerri Moore, FHT; Lesley Blair, Babtac; Caroline Neville, CEW members from the National Beauty Federation (NBF), Babtac, the careers, ensuring there are clear Federation of Holistic Therapists (FHT), pathways and progression routes to Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW), Level 7 for beauty therapists, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries and Perfumery promoting consumer safety. Association (CTPA), Habia and the UK The group said its first step is to Spa Association (UKSA). conduct wide-reaching research on the Key objectives include promoting aesthetics market to support the work of the industry as a route into flexible the APPG.
Wah Nails closes after 10 years of trading
Nail salon Wah Nails in Soho closed its doors on July 26 after 10 years of trading. The company, launched in 2009 by Sharmadean Reid, was a pioneer in
offering bespoke, fashion-forward nail art to millennial clients. Reid is now focusing all her efforts on her other business Beautystack – a software management platform for individual beauty pros to promote their work and take bookings via customisable, image-based scheduling. “It’s been an amazing 10 years with Wah but I would love to apply what I learned from that to build the Beautystack business and take it around the world,” Reid told Professional Beauty.
World Wellness Weekend to be celebrated in 100 countries World Wellness Weekend will take place on September 21–22 this year, with events planned in 2,000 venues across 100 countries. 2019’s World Wellness Weekend will be the third annual instalment of the initiative, created to encourage spa, wellness and leisure professionals to promote wellness activities to the public. Each venue taking part – including hotels, resorts, spas, yoga and fitness studios, and sports clubs – will organise at least one free 60-minute activity or
workshop for the public. Free activities taking place include zumba and yoga classes, nutrition lectures and sound bathing meditation.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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To stock ApraiseÂŽ in your salon or spa, find a local stockist at www.apraise.co.uk
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diarydates // September 15 Innovative Beauty Conference Castle Hotel, Windsor New one-day conference, followed by Babtac & Cibtac Awards. 01452 623110 babtac.com // September 29–30 Olympia Beauty Olympia, London Nail and beauty trade show with competitions and events. 01959 569867 olympiabeauty.co.uk // October 5–7 Salon International ExCeL, London The UK’s top exhibition for hairdressing professionals, comprising seminars, competitions and live stages. 020 7351 0536 salonshow.co.uk
Sweet Squared event to host nail industry legends CND distributor Sweet Squared is to host an audience with nail industry veterans Marian Newman and Gigi Rouse at its Leeds headquarters. The ticketed event will take place on December 9 and will give techs an opportunity to ask questions and gain knowledge from legendary session tech Newman and educator Rouse, who originally brought CND to the UK. There will also be a secret guest appearance. Tickets include lunch and a goody bag, and can be booked online at my.sweetsquared. com/education/course/349
Hive of Beauty outlines expansion plans for Oritree Oritree wax, distributed by Hive of Beauty, has undergone a rebrand to
// October 13–14 Professional Beauty North EventCity, Manchester The largest beauty exhibition in the North, with a packed education line-up and networking opportunities. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ north // October 15–16 Independent Hotel Show Olympia, London Event for boutique hotels, featuring seminars. 020 7351 0536 independenthotelshow.co.uk // October 15–17 Global Wellness Summit Grand Hyatt, Hong Kong International conference for spa and wellness professionals. +1212 716 1199 globalwellnesssummit.com // November 11–12 Spa Life Hilton Doubletree, Coventry Conference and meetings forum for UK spas and suppliers. 01268 745892 spa-life.eu
give the products a modern look. While the three product formulations have remained the same, the packaging has been made over with a fresh design and bright colours to update its old, more medical-looking aesthetic of white, green and red. Hive said the redesign is part of a strategic plan to take the brand nationwide, via wholesalers, having previously been quite London-centric. Wider European distribution plans will follow and Hive said it is open to any partnership enquiries.
Nouveau Skin Therapy unveils revamped Dermatude range Professional treatment brand Nouveau Skin Therapy has lifted the lid on the redesigned and reformulated Dermatude skincare range. Intended for clients to use alongside Dermatude Meta Therapy treatments, the 12-product line has new silver and white packaging, additional ingredients for cell recovery and skin balancing; and formulations that help prolong treatment benefits for longer. Nouveau Skin Therapy has also conducted independent in
vivo testing on the range to prove its effectiveness in balancing sebum and oil production, increasing hydration levels, and reducing wrinkle and pore depth, UV damage and redness.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Digital
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professional
beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world
Samantha Cox (@dailynailspa): Thank you @pro_beauty01 magazine for asking me to feature this month! Totally grateful! Thank you @gerrardinternational for always having my back!
Hot topic Lena Christou (@lena_christou1972): So very impressed that the June issue of @pro_beauty01 magazine dedicated articles to both drag make-up and make-up for all ethnicities. This is progress!
Is there a problem with online therapy courses in the beauty industry? Sam Pearce, owner of The Potting Shed Spa, Yorkshire, commented: “You can do a full-body massage course online in four hours and be ‘qualified’ without actually carrying out the practical side of it – never actually touching another person. Utterly outrageous.” Gail Donnan, owner of The Mindfulspace Wellbeing Company, Yorkshire, commented: “Anyone can have a course accredited but it’s the insurance underwriters who thankfully have strict guidelines. It saddens me that people are signing up in good faith on courses that aren’t insurable.”
THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you think Instagram’s plans to hide “likes” will help reduce negative body image issues?
Hot topic
How YouTube learning is damaging the nail industry Alex Goodier, therapist at White Cliffs Beauty, Kent, commented: “Excellent training is key; however, there appears to be a shortage of excellent trainers. It’s seems like most are box ticking and handing out certificates.”
37% YES
63% NO
Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @georgeseago @katsjonouchi
@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Social Surgery
28
LOSING
Likes
the
PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin takes a look at some potential changes being made to Instagram, and how they might impact your business
Y
our Instagram feed could soon look very different.
Instagram may have to go further than this to help create
A trial – initially launched in Canada, but since
a more positive environment.
expanded to more countries – has seen the number of “likes” on content hidden from public view.
What this means for your business
Instead, likes only display one user’s name and
Even if you think this change is only cosmetic, the impact
list “others” for the rest. Users are still able to see the
it could have on your business’s Instagram page is much
number of likes on their own content, but not other
bigger. If you were previously able to draw in big numbers
people’s. While there’s no confirmation the feature will
of likes and attract custom this way, then you’ll have to
launch worldwide, the trial’s expansion suggests it may be
come up with new ways to make your profile stand out.
coming to the UK sooner rather than later.
As previously covered in these columns, keeping your Instagram regularly updated will be one way to ensure
Why is Instagram hiding likes?
this. If you’re consistently posting content, this looks much
The platform has offered two explanations for its decision.
stronger than a page that appears neglected. Similarly,
The first is, “we want your friends to focus on the photos and
content that encourages comments – which won’t be
videos you share, not how many likes they get”. The second
hidden – will also be particularly valuable.
had a similar message, but with a more personal tone: “we
Without a doubt, influencers will be the most affected
want people to worry a little less about how many likes
group by the change in likes. Many influencers use
they are getting”.
engagement as their “clout”, guaranteeing a certain
In this way, the change can be seen as Instagram’s
number of likes per post. With these being hidden, it’s
response to reports linking social media to a rise in people
much harder to prove how effective one influencer is
feeling negative or anxious about their own body image.
compared with another.
A 2017 poll by the Royal Society for Public Health ranked Instagram as the most negative platform for wellbeing. With likes no longer being public, it will be much harder
Of course, if you’re already using (or planning to use) influencers to help promote your business, this doesn’t mean they are no longer valuable assets. Consider other
to compare your own content directly against others. In
stats that are equally important. Ask them for the reach
theory, this would stop people feeling the need to emulate
of their posts – this figure is much more likely to give you
or strive to match the “perfect look” content that performs
an accurate idea of their value to your business than
well on the platform.
a follower count, for example. Similarly, influencers who
But, as our monthly poll revealed, 63% of PB readers believe that this change won’t have the desired effect.
can craft content that creates a positive buzz in their comments will be particularly valuable. PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Advertorial Versatile SBC Moisturising Gels Our signature formula was created by therapists for therapists. With the needs of the professional at the forefront of our development, we created a product that works hard alongside your staff and helps to reduce cost within the treatment room. Our Gels are so versatile, you can include them in every treatment on your menu. They look bright and vibrant on a trolley and are easy to navigate for therapists. With a wide selection of powerful ingredients, we have ensured that every treatment can be tailored to the individual client. Maximise SBC Gel usage across your treatments: • As a moisturiser in facials for combination and oilier skin types • As a bespoke hydrating mask during facials or back treatments • As a professional tool to work alongside popular machines i.e. galvanic, nonsurgical facelift toning and IPL • To target your client’s skin needs – slimming, toning, nourishing, clearing, energising, balancing, calming and soothing • As a serum during facials to boost the effectiveness of your moisturisers • A great way to end pedicures with a light, uplifting, grease-free moisturiser • As a cuticle conditioner in both manicure, pedicure and artificial nail treatments
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As skincare professionals, we know that external aggressors damage the skins protective hydrolipidic film and contribute to transepidermal water loss, resulting in excess dryness, wrinkles and dehydration. SBC selected and sourced the key ingredient Green Caviar which has been deemed ‘the new super food of the ocean’, in line with the green living approach that is changing skincare across the nation.
Waxing is the ‘bread and butter’ treatment in over 90% of salons nationwide. This treatment is guaranteed to secure repeat bookings throughout the year, yet it is one of the areas lacking in luxury. The SBC Wax/Hair Removal Kit changes this perception with superb quality products, designed for both the face and body, with ingredients that tailor the treatment to individual skin types. Clients will find themselves looking forward to their wax treatment, as opposed to dreading it!
Packing a powerful punch of amino acids, which directly impacts collagen production in the skin, this is the new go-to ingredient for anti-ageing benefits. The Green Caviar collection also helps to detoxify and gives the skins moisture levels a boost, hitting 3 of the most common skin complaints in the salon: breakouts, dehydration and ageing! The Green Caviar range will support regeneration of new, healthy skin cells and help improve the skins overall appearance. A superb trio which will cover all of your client skin types and deliver results that will guarantee satisfaction!
• Lemon Myrtle & Thyme Cream Body Polish Helps to reduce bacteria and skin reactions • Aloe Vera Skincare Gel Dramatically soothes and cools the skin • Propolis Skincare Gel Soothes the skin and helps to reduce the risk of spotty post-wax breakouts
Why Trust SBC For Your Salon
• Witch Hazel Skincare Gel Cleanses and clarifies the skin
• We’re honest, transparent and confident. We believe that effective, fuss-free pampering should form part of a daily well-being ritual. • We celebrate the fact that our colourful collections are cruelty free, eco-friendly and are always tested on us, used by us and loved by us. • Our well-being collections are driven by nature, perfected by our in-house chemists and enhanced by consumer feedback. • Our beautiful aromas nurture the senses and support emotional well-being.
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Industry Events
33
Out About
Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa
URBAN RETREAT AT THE WHITE HOUSE LAUNCH PARTY KNIGHTSBRIDGE, LONDON PB’s editor Eve Oxberry and social media editor Chris Halpin got a first look at the new Urban Retreat at the White House salon during the launch party in August, held for press and clients. Managing director Reena Hammer gave guests the grand tour of the building, which is a renovated five-storey town house offering everything from lashes to tattooing, alongside a bar and plenty of space for retail. Guests enjoyed lychee martinis and canapÊs courtesy of in-house restaurant Flavour.
SALON LIFE ILEC CONFERENCE CENTRE, LONDON The first beauty salon-focused event from the organisers of Spa Life took place in July, offering delegates a combination of face-to-face meetings with suppliers, an education programme, and a mini exhibition featuring sponsor brands including Caudalie and Mii. Keynote speaker was Lopo Champalimaud, chief executive of bookings platform Treatwell, who shared some industry statistics before giving advice on how best to use online bookings to increase revenue. Other speakers included Menno Kuijper of app specialist gappt, who shared case studies of businesses that have tackled loss of income from no-shows by taking card details on booking, and retail specialist Jaclyn Hughes, who outlined strategies to improve average client spend. Delegates also enjoyed a three-course lunch and a goody bag with products from exhibitors. professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Industry Events
34 LASH PERFECT IREVIVE BREAKFAST LAUNCH LASH PERFECT BEAUTY BAR, LONDON The lash brand invited press, including PB’s deputy editor Amanda Pauley, to the reveal of its first-ever eye treatment iRevive. The 30-minute ritual promises to reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness by using under-eye patches infused with microcurrent technology, which claim to boost collagen and elasticity in the skin, in combination with a lymphatic massage using a rose quartz roller. Beverley Piper, director of Lash Perfect, talked attendees through the treatment, which the brand says is an ideal add-on to any lash treatment, while techs demoed the ritual. Press took away a goody bag filled with the matching retail products to try at home.
SAKS FUNDRAISING FOR THE EVE APPEAL VARIOUS LOCATIONS ACROSS THE UK Staff from Saks Hair & Beauty salons across the UK joined forces this summer to raise money for the Eve Appeal. The franchise salon chain, which has been fundraising for the gynaecological cancer charity since 2015, has just hit the £150,000 mark – well on the way to its £250,000 target. Activities have included physical mud challenges, mountain climbs and several in-salon events with clients. Saks head of marketing Janet King said: “I’m blown away by how everyone’s joined in with our ongoing fundraising activities. A big part of our partnership is raising awareness. We’ve got to keep teaching our daughters the correct language to use so they’re not embarrassed to talk to their GPs about gynaecological issues. Vagina is not a dirty word.”
REFECTOCIL BROWISTA CREATIVE CUSTOM COLOUR WORKSHOP BEAUTYSTACK, LONDON PB’s Amanda spent the day learning the art of personalised brow tinting at Salon System’s Refectocil Browista workshop. The one-day course began with brow and lash experts Lisa Stone and Ruth Atkins talking through the season’s biggest trends, before demonstrating how to mix up different shades to harmonise with clients’ hair colour. Delegates were shown how to intensify and lighten a shade as well as how to develop more vivid colours like red, silver and blue. The day ended with attendees demoing a variety of tints on one another.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Find out how we can help transform your business: 0845 600 0203 / www.gdcspa.co.uk
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39 Business Trends
Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market
Insider
beauty
With consumers now having to battle environmental aggressors such as pollution, UV damage and blue light on a daily basis, almost a third of you (29%) said you have more clients coming in with skin sensitivity than ever before. You’ve also noted an increase in clients asking for advice on managing acne (20%) and sun damage (12%). Workplace wellness has also been high on your agenda, especially since the World Health Organization recognised burnout as a medical condition. As such, more than half of you (56%) have implemented wellbeing programmes in salon to keep your therapists, managers and front-of-house staff mentally and physically healthy. With semi-permanent make-up treatments continually developing, we round up the latest trends you can offer on page 95, including faux freckles, lip blush and ombré brows – which 49% of you said is the technique you would most like to learn.
Which skin condition do clients most often come to you for advice on? 1. Sensitivity 2. Acne 3. Age spots 4. Sun damage
Wallis
On the spot July 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JULY 2019 COMPARE WITH JULY 2018?
51% 37% 12%
56%
BETTER have work wellness programmes to look after their teams
Which semi-permanent make-up technique would you most like to train in? 1. Ombré brows 2. Eyeliner dots (to make lashes appear fuller) 3. Lip blush 4. Faux freckles
Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider
SAME
WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
56% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JULY 2019 COMPARE WITH JULY 2018?
29% 32% 39% BETTER
WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Business Trends
40
Insider
spa
On the spot How are you helping clients reconnect with nature? 1. Offering outdoor treatments 2. Hosting nature/wellbeing walks 3. Forest bathing 4. Building wellness gardens
Figleaves
With clients wanting to reconnect with nature more than ever, many of you have introduced initiatives to deliver this offering. Outdoor treatments in secluded areas of your spa’s property (25%) have been the most popular concept, followed closely by hosting mental wellbeing walks (9%) and building wellness gardens (8%). Some of you have also had clients enquiring about whether you stock products that include this year’s hottest ingredients. As such, 42% of you are looking to add prebiotics and probiotics to your retail offering, as well as CBD oil skincare (18%), crystal-infused ranges (17%) and marine-friendly sunscreen (16%). Making sure staff are happy and healthy at work is a top priority, which is why just under half (42%) of you have been working on creating work wellness programmes for your therapists. Don’t forget to check out the hottest spa launches for autumn on page 110.
July 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JULY 2019 COMPARE WITH JULY 2018?
58% 9% 33%
42%
BETTER
WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
have work wellness programmes to look after their teams
Which product trend are you looking to add to your offering? 1. Prebiotics and probiotics 2. CBD-infused skincare 3. Crystal-infused skincare 4. Marine-friendly sunscreen
SAME
71% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JULY 2019 COMPARE WITH JULY 2018?
42% BETTER
17%
41% WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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PEELING MARIN 96%*
New skin effect after the 1st treatment
To ďŹ nd out more please contact us: E: enquiry@thalgo.co.uk T: 020 7512 0872 www.thalgo.co.uk Thalgo UK
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Let the sea empower your beauty *Clinical study under dermatological supervision conducted on 23 volunteers divided into 3 groups according to age and severity of the skin concerns, carrying out 1 to 3 Peeling Marin Treatments according to the THALGO COSMETIC protocol. Self-assessment by the volunteers, immediately after the 1st Treatment (by 23 volunteers).
Insider
nails
Dealing with particularly difficult clients is part of the job, so we asked you to rank clients’ most annoying habits. Being late for every appointment (39%) came out top, followed by changing their mind about the colour during or at the end of the service (22%) and coming in for their appointment when ill (12%). Other top niggles included coming in for a pedicure straight from the gym (7%) and staying silent during the treatment (6%). With sustainability a huge issue in the industry at the moment, many of you have been checking the eco-credentials of the products you use. However, only 7% said they have heard from the companies they stock about how the brands plan to reduce their packaging waste. Meanwhile, Marian Newman scooped the title of the tech who inspires you the most, closely followed by NAF! salon founder Tammy Koslowski.
On the spot Which nail tech inspires you the most? 1. Marian Newman 2. Tammy Koslowski 3. Katie Barnes 4. Jessica Hoffman
Oliver Bonas
Business Trends
42
July 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JULY 2019 COMPARE WITH JULY 2018?
7%
say the nail brands they stock have outlined plans to reduce packaging
What’s the most common bad habit among your nail clients? 1. Being late for every appointment 2. Changing their mind about the colour 3. Coming in when sick – I don’t want to get ill 4. Cutting their nails badly, causing an ingrown nail METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from July 30 to August 8, regarding business for the month to July 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.
43% 40% 17% BETTER
SAME
WORSE
NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK
20 HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JULY 2019 COMPARE WITH JULY 2018?
22% 54% 24% BETTER
WORSE
SAME
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Introducing an amazing brand, exceptional quality acrylic nail powders and gels, with nearly 300 acrylic powders including pre mixed glitters, Glitterbels powders are super pigmented, smooth to apply and made easier to control. A range of gel polishes in stunning colours. An extensive range of core powders, monomers and essential tools for the Nail Technician.
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47 Ward’s World
Getting
smart
ONLINE
The younger generation will judge a salon first and foremost on its digital presence, and even without a lot of time or budget, there are simple ways to boost yours, writes HELLEN WARD
T
here’s no getting away from it, generation Z has a completely different approach to life than gen X, or even millennials. Understanding them can be quite a challenge. At times, working with them or parenting them can seem alien to people my age. My daughter has understandably come to very much appreciate the fact that she can get her hair, beauty and nails done on tap. Whenever she’s home, the first thing she does is head to SW3 for a pamper – and who could blame her? The debate is whether or not she’s allowed to book (I say no, she has to go standby, she argues that she can’t plan her day unless she knows what she’s doing). But when she does want to book in, she does it online via our app. She fails to comprehend that we can’t take all our bookings this way because clients have complicated services that require different book-back times and are often (hopefully) seeing multiple operators. What never ceases to amaze me is that (like my son and all their friends) it simply doesn’t occur to her to pick up the phone to schedule a booking – they’d rather spend hours faffing around online than call.
embrace it to the extent that many other sectors have. Look at the average salon’s social channels; they’re often just a stream of pretty hair or nail art pictures. This is great, but aren’t we missing an opportunity here? Shouldn’t we also be showcasing our service offering, interiors and experience? And, even better, featuring our team members?
Personal connection I demonstrate this when I talk and teach about brand presence. I ask delegates to look at their websites with a fresh pair of eyes. Bearing in mind the average consumer spends just six seconds looking at a new website before they leave, the homepage is critical, but often that very first impression is merely an advert for the products used or sold in the salon. The vital call to action, and the personal connection that is our currency, are overlooked in favour of a banner promoting another brand and therefore someone else’s products – usually free of charge. Can you think of another sector where this would happen? When I point this out, it usually resonates with the salon owners once they realise what an opportunity they’re missing. The brands we stock are a vital part of our professional positioning and offering, but they should never be the first thing a potential customer sees. It should be our brand, our story and our team. Because for Generation Z, this is too important to get wrong. PB
The vital call to action, and the personal connection that is our currency, are often overlooked
Team effort Her generation has grown up with the internet. They’ve only known a life in which you can avoid all human contact if you choose. I’m sure I’m not the only boss who could scream at her younger employees whose constant excuse is “I emailed them but they didn’t get back to me”. Or worse, they try to report sickness by text. Isn’t it a cop out? There are lots of good things about the online world. Brilliant things, in fact. But in our industry, we’ve struggled to
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for The National Beauty Federation (NBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Ask the Experts
51
ask
the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
When is it OK to cut a client’s cuticles and how can I do it safely? Clients get confused between the cuticle and the eponychium. The eponychium is live skin that protects the nail plate and should not be cut, whereas the cuticle is the dead skin that attaches itself to the nail plate from the underside of the eponychium as the nail grows. Thinking it’s the cuticle, some clients request the eponychium to be cut as it looks nicer, but it is there to protect your client from bacteria and infection, and cutting it can cause damage to the nail plate itself. It’s up to you to educate your client about this. To safely tidy up the area, gently push back the eponychium with a cuticle pusher after applying cuticle remover, or a warm oil soak. In doing so, you will also lift the cuticle and prepare the nail plate for a manicure. It is safe and advisable to cut hangnails too because, if left, they can tear and cause soreness, infection and damage around the nail. Always provide your client with a good homecare routine whether they get regular manis or not. However, if your client doesn’t attend regularly, advise them that the best way to look after their eponychium and remove the cuticle at home would be to wait until after a bath or shower when the area is soft. They can then gently push back the cuticle using an orange stick
or the corner of a flannel, using circular motions over the nail plate to exfoliate the surface and gently move away the cuticle. Suggest that they also keep this area moisturised with hand cream and cuticle oil. I always suggest keeping these next to the bed, or in front of their computer at work, to remind them to apply regularly throughout the day.
Karen Louise is Salon System’s nail expert and a celebrity session manicurist. She regularly works at London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks and on editorial shoots.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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52 Ask the Experts
How can I achieve a streak-free tan on tricky areas?
What advice should I give clients who want to switch to all-natural skincare? Changing from traditional skincare to a natural line will require some adjustment, but I believe it is worth it. There’s been a rise in awareness about how certain skincare ingredients can cause harm, especially potential hormone disruptors, and customers are now looking to empower themselves and make more educated choices. However, you should prepare them for the differences they will notice in a natural range. Firstly, explain about the look and feel of non-chemical products. An authentic natural product may separate from time to time and the colour and consistency may change from batch to batch. However, the beneficial, long-term results they will experience will be consistent. The client’s skin will need a week or two to adjust to the new products and this may cause it to react and breakout. Advise clients not to be alarmed if this happens. Also, make them aware that the colon and sebaceous glands are interrelated and they both play their part in excreting toxins. Artifical lubricants present in some skincare can disrupt this process, forming a seal on the skin and causing pores to Renchia Droganis is an become clogged. In these cases, aromatherapist, reiki master, natural healer skin will experience a period of and the founder of natural, detoxification so tell clients to essential oil-based skincare be patient and allow the skin to range Africology. function as it should.
Tanning can be difficult and clients may experience times when their tan might not appear exactly as they wanted, but this can largely be avoided by following a few simple rules. When booking the tan, I advise my clients – especially if they have dry skin – to do a full-body exfoliation the day before the appointment. They should moisturise then repeat the exfoliation on the morning of the appointment, ensuring that they shower afterwards so that they don’t have any product on the skin prior to the tan. Alternatively, you could offer exfoliation as part of the tanning treatment. In addition to dealing with dry skin, exfoliation can strip the skin of any previous tan that might remain on the body, which is essential for a perfect finish. Build up of tan on a client can make the colour you apply look uneven and unnatural, even if you apply it properly. Pay attention to the ankles and tops of the feet and also, for clients with a larger, heavier bust, the bra strap area. Barrier cream such as Wing Smoothing Spray from Crazy Angel will help to protect the dryer areas on the body. If the client has peeling patch on the skin, make your own judgment whether to go ahead with the tan. For the hands, I always cover the whole area then rub the client’s hands as if I am washing them, making sure to rub between the fingers. Don’t forget to protect the knees and elbows, which can also be tricky. PB
Abbie McCann has worked in the beauty industry for almost 20 years and is brand ambassador for pro tanning brand Crazy Angel.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Mii_BeautyEmpowered_Trade Advert_Repro.indd 1
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17/07/2019 17:24
Professional Beauty Awards 2020
56
best THE
just got
better The Professional Beauty Awards 2020 will be an all-new standalone summer event. Make sure you’re recognised among the best in the business
T
here’s a brand new format, venue and date for the Professional Beauty Awards 2020. To allow more time for networking, partying and, most importantly, getting ready for the big night, the Professional Beauty Awards will be a standalone summer event, separate from the shows or the World Spa & Wellness Awards.
New format Taking place at London Hilton on Park Lane on June 28, 2020, the event will begin with a roundtable Salon & Spa Connect afternoon networking event, allowing finalists to meet in an informal setting and share challenges and solutions. The evening part of the event will then see winners announced at a glamorous black-tie dinner, featuring a drinks reception, three-course meal, and professional entertainment. There are also a host of exciting new categories, giving more of the incredible businesses and practitioners in the UK a chance to shine. With no separate Regional Awards this year, the standalone Professional Beauty Awards 2020 will recognise businesses on both a regional and a national level. One thing that hasn’t changed is the thoroughness of the judging process. All entries are scored by independent industry experts, and finalists go through to a second round that involves either visits, interviews or trade tests.
Professional Beauty Awards 2020 categories: Regional salon categories Giving more of the UK’s outstanding beauty salon businesses the opportunity for recognition, the four regional salon categories celebrate excellence in treatment and retail skills, customer service, therapist training and business success. Midlands & North West Salon of the Year North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Salon of the Year South West & Wales Salon of the Year South East Salon of the Year
Regional spa categories Recognising excellence in customer journey, treatment delivery, facilities and industry innovation, the four regional Spa of the Year categories are open to both residential and day spas. Previous regional winners include major names such as Pennyhill Park, Gaia and Seaham Hall. Midlands & North West Spa of the Year North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Spa of the Year South East Spa of the Year South West & Wales Spa of the Year
National categories Boutique Salon of the Year* Recognising the best beauty salon in the UK with three treatment rooms or fewer, this category shines a light on outstanding boutique salons. The winner will be the absolute best of the smaller salons that made the finals in their regional category.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Professional Beauty Awards 2020
57
Large Salon of the Year* Awarding the super-salons, this category recognises businesses with four or more treatment rooms that consistently impress consumers and deliver an impeccable customer experience from start to finish. The winner will be the best large salon from all the regional categories.
and recognises exceptional teamwork from every individual with a role in making the business both successful and fulfilling to work for.
Boutique Spa of the Year* Achieving a consistently excellent service and results is no mean feat, and this category recognises exceptional spas with 10 treatment rooms or fewer. The winner will be the best boutique spa from all the regional categories.
Therapist of the Year Regularly attracting a very high level of entries, this category recognises those special beauty therapists who have in-depth knowledge and a broad skill set, and really go the extra mile for their clients.
Large Spa of the Year* Running an outstanding spa operation with 11 treatment rooms or more means delivering excellence in facilities, service, training and innovation. The winner will be the best large spa from all of the regional categories. NEW: Spa/Salon Leader of the Year Showcasing the leading lights in the industry, this award is for an inspirational and innovative leader who runs a dynamic, motivated team, and a successful business.
Nail Salon of the Year Celebrating the dynamic nails market, this award is the ultimate accolade for salons that do the majority of their business in nails.
Employer of the Year With recruitment tougher than ever, this award is for the salon, spa or clinic that demonstrates real dedication to supporting its employees and giving them rewarding careers within a strong and successful business. PB *National spa and salon categories cannot be entered directly. The winners of these four categories will be the highest scorers from all relevant regional categories
SPONSORED BY
NEW: Spa/Salon Team of the Year Celebrating the amazing bonds formed within salons and spas, this award gives a boost to the whole team
HOW TO ENTER: Entries open in late October. Register your interest now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/awardsregister
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Advertorial
Bacteria, pollutants and dirt from the environment cling on Bacteria, pollutants and dirt from thecontribute environment on to our skin and can potentially tocling aging, to our skin and can potentially contribute to aging, breakouts, acne and pigmentation, if not cleansed off breakouts, FOREO, acne anda Swedish pigmentation, if not and cleansed off effectively. beauty-tech wellness effectively. FOREO, a Swedish beauty-tech and wellness brand, launched its first LUNA™ cleansing device six years brand, its firsthygienic LUNA™ cleansing six years ago as alaunched gentler, more and effectivedevice alternative that ago as a gentler, more hygienic and effective alternative that simply didn’t exist at the time. Today, more than 20 million simply didn’t exist at the time. Today, more than 20 million FOREO products have landed in the hands of consumers FOREO products havewith landed theevery hands2 of consumers from all over the world oneinsold seconds. from all over the world with one sold every 2 seconds. In FOREO’s existing portfolio, there are three products that In FOREO’s portfolio, three products that can be easilyexisting incorporated intothere eachare step of your protocol can be easily incorporated into each step of your protocol for enhanced results. Commence your treatment with for enhanced results. your treatment with FOREO’s LUNA™ Pro Commence Set which combines high-grade FOREO’s LUNA™ Pro Set which combines high-grade silicone with 16,000 T-Sonic™ pulsations per minute, for silicone with 16,000 T-Sonic™ minute, for clinically proven removal of uppulsations to 99.5% per of dirt, oil and clinically proven removal of up to 99.5% of dirt, oil and makeup residue. makeup residue. T-Sonic™ cleansing with the LUNA™ Pro Set devices in T-Sonic™ cleansing thetherapists LUNA™ to Procleanse Set devices in your treatment roomwith allow deeper your treatment room allow therapists to cleanse deeper than just their fingertips alone. Stimulating the dermis to than just their fingertips alone. Stimulating the dermis to unclog the deepest of blocked pores and refining the skin's unclog the deepest of blocked pores and refining the skin's texture, providing the perfect blank canvas for enhanced texture, providing the perfect blank canvas for enhanced instant results. instant results.
the combination of Thermotherapy, Cryotherapy and the combination of found Thermotherapy, Cryotherapy T-Sonic pulsations, all in this one mighty device! and Skin T-Sonic pulsations, all found in this one mighty device! Skin cells are stimulated for higher levels of dermal absorption cells stimulated for higher levelsUFO™ of dermal absorption usingare FOREO's Korean formulated activated sheet using FOREO's Korean formulated UFO™ activated sheet masks. The device also incorporates red, blue and green masks. Thetherapy device to also incorporates red, blue and green LED light stimulate skin healing and collagen LED light therapy to stimulate skin healing and collagen production, kill acne-causing bacteria and reduce production, acne-causing bacteria and reduce pigmentation kill damage. pigmentation damage. Provide a relaxing end to your facial treatment by Provide a relaxing endIRIS™ to your treatment incorporating FOREO's eye facial massage device by to incorporating FOREO's IRIS™ eye massage device to apply your chosen eye products to your client. Born from apply your chosen eye products your client. Born from the inspiration of traditional Asiantotapping techniques, the the inspiration of traditional Asian tapping techniques, the IRIS™ device is clinically proven to be 70% more effective IRIS™ device is clinically proven be 70% more effective at reducing dark circles, and to80% more effective in at reducing dark circles, and 80% more effective in smoothing the appearance of the eye contour than manual smoothing of the contour of thanT-Sonic manual application the of appearance eye cream. Theeye addition ™ application of eye cream. The addition of T-Sonic ™ pulsations increase product absorption providing elevated pulsations absorption providing elevated results andincrease extremeproduct relaxation. results and extreme relaxation. FOREO’s beauty devices not only provide a unique results FOREO’s beauty devices not only provide a unique results driven addition to your treatment menu, but also offer an driven addition to your treatment menu, but also offer an innovative retail opportunity for your business. innovative retail opportunity for your business.
Combine the LUNA™ Pro Set with FOREO's UFO™ smart Combine the LUNA™ Pro Set with FOREO's UFO™ smart mask 'Hyper-Infusion' technology. 'Hyper Infusion' refers to mask 'Hyper-Infusion' technology. 'Hyper Infusion' refers to
“The FOREO LUNA Pro is a game changer in our treatment “The FOREO LUNA Pro is a game changer in our treatment rooms. It has proven to be a gentle, yet effective device that rooms. It has proven to be a gentle, yet effective device that leaves our guest’s skin clean without irritation. The LUNA leaves our guest’s skin clean without irritation. The LUNA Pro perfectly preps the skin for manual and chemical Pro perfectly preps the skin for manual and chemical exfoliants. The FOREO IRIS gives us the ability to give our exfoliants. The FOREO IRIS gives us the ability to give our guests a relaxing under the eye treatment and is a beautiful guests a relaxing under the eye treatment and is a beautiful finishing touch to all of our facials” - Debba Haq Spa finishing touch to all of our facials” - Debba Haq Spa Director for Bathhouse Spa and Spa Mandalay Las Vegas, Director for Bathhouse Spa and Spa Mandalay Las Vegas, NV, United States. NV, United States.
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In addition to its power cleanse setting in mode one, In addition to its power cleanse setting in mode one, firming massage mode two uses the reverse side of the firming massage mode two uses the reverse side of the devices to increase blood flow by up to 450%, bringing devices to increase blood flow by up to 450%, bringing fresh oxygen and nutrients to the surface of the skin and fresh oxygen and nutrients to the surface of the skin and doubling product absorption. doubling product absorption.
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61 Interview
Talking to...
Eve
Taylor
I
The founder of the eponymous aromatherapy brand talks to Amanda Pauley about the need for regulation in the beauty industry, taking sustainability seriously and becoming a household name
t would be fair to say that Eve Taylor is a force to be reckoned with. In the short time I got to speak to her I learned that this woman has an incredible understanding of aromatherapy and skin, a love for the beauty industry that runs deep and a firm view of what needs to change to keep the sector viable for future generations. Her humour is pretty infectious, too. As founder of the eponymous range of aromatherapy oils, Taylor is one of the industry’s greatest success stories. The business has grown from Taylor developing five essential oils in her London council flat in 1963 to now having a full line that includes skincare, stocked by 5,000 customers in the UK, including salons, spas and mobile
therapists. The company also has a single purpose-built site in England which manufactures the products and exports more than 60% of them, to 40 countries around the world. Taylor has cemented her reputation as a household name in aromatherapy. When I ask what her greatest accomplishment is, the answer is surprising: “Survival. To still be in this business and thriving when it keeps changing. Our turnover has gone up this year, which will make the tax man happy,” she adds. “I did also receive an OBE for my work in aromatherapy, which was a wonderful experience, and I pierced the >
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Interview
62
Princess of Wales’s ears in my salon in Sevenoaks back when she was Lady Diana Spencer. Does that one count?”
The education issue
Taylor believes that anybody allowed to work on the public’s skin should be licensed, as a way to safeguard customers. “We need a legal minimum standard of training in this country,” she says. “If anybody with this online academy-style training comes to me wanting to use Eve Taylor products I say no. “As a result, I’ve had these academies on my back saying, ‘are you telling me my people are not qualified?’ I say, ‘No, it’s just they are not at the standard of knowledge or skills that we require’, and that’s all I can say. If I say they’re not qualified then the academy will sue me.”
Taylor is an advocate for consistently learning and upskilling, having held roles such as co-chief examiner for City & Guilds and chair of Babtac. In recent years, she’s been outspoken on raising education standards and the need for more regulation around short courses. Her issue is with the growing number of academies claiming to teach people facials in as little as three days – a huge contrast to the years of training needed to master the technique in college. “When I talk to someone who has done this training, I think ‘good God, how are you being let loose on the public?’, truly. Some of these beauty courses you can do in just a day or two but how can they learn about anatomy, physiology and allergies in such a short time? They are not taught the risks at all,” she says.
Thriving in a saturated market
Clockwise from top: Eye Taylor with her OBE, the brand’s five essential oils, Taylor in her early days of teaching
Despite the business doing well, it’s not immune to the issues plaguing the wider industry, such as market saturation and grey-market sales. “Launching products is so easy now. Every day it seems people go on a course, launch a brand and then sell these things on eBay. It’s like a car boot sale all of the time,” explains Taylor. “Yet, many don’t have a philosophy. It’s not enough to just put products out, there has to be a reason why you’re making them.” However, Taylor says many newcomers come unstuck when having to deal with the complexities of getting their ranges into new countries. “Everything has to be registered with the EU and it’s costly and sometimes a bit of a nightmare to navigate,” she says. “Registering one product can cost about £400, so your formulations need to be right and you must have all the scientific evidence to back them up. For the Philippines, we had to go and swear affidavits and all sorts to get our products out there.” The brand is also trying to deal with the trade of its products via >
We need a legal minimum standard of training… when I talk to someone who has done [a short course] I think ‘good God, how are you being let loose on the public’?”
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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COMPETITIVELY PRICED. NEW STYLES & COLOURS AVAILABLE
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12/08/2019 13:59
Interview
64
Left: Taylor receiving the Outstanding Contribution Award at the Women Leaders Awards; below: an early picture of Taylor teaching
KEY DATES 1963 Establishes Eve Taylor Beauty Preparations and produces first products 1968 The brand changes its name to Eve Taylor (London) 1980 The company exhibits at Cosmoprof Asia and appoints its first international distributor 1991 Taylor becomes chairwoman of Babtac 2005 Responding to client demand, Eve Taylor Skincare launches 2008 Taylor receives her OBE for services to the aromatherapy industry
unauthorised distribution channels. “Grey market sales are still a big issue,” explains Taylor. “We tried to stop people selling our stuff on eBay, especially used products, and we couldn’t. Trading Standards warned us that these people can do what they like with the product once they’ve bought it.” A definitive solution may be unclear, but Taylor’s company is being tough with professionals who sell products via unsolicited channels. “If we see any of our salons doing it, we’re not happy about it and we make it known.” When I broach the question of an impending Brexit and what this could mean for the beauty industry, especially on importing and exporting goods, Taylor is matter of fact about the issue. “I’m not worried about Brexit and let me tell you why: I’m one of the people who originally voted to go into a common market in 1973, but I never voted to be taken over with the rules, regulations and laws that we have now, so I want out,” she explains. “All I can say sitting here at this moment in time is that our business has picked up since Brexit and in the UK we’re selling more, so I have no fears.” With the UK Government cracking down on
single-use plastic waste – cotton buds and straws will be banned as of 2020 and many feel wet wipes could be next – the beauty industry is under scrutiny to make changes to help reduce the impact on the environment.
Taking sustainability seriously As a company, Eve Taylor is one step ahead on the sustainability front, pledging to plant one tree for every skincare product sold as part of its new environmental campaign Give Back to Nature. Launched in partnership with non-profit organisation Trees for the Future, the brand is committed to planting a minimum of 100,000 trees a year. “Sustainability is a very important factor for our growth strategy as we use so many of nature’s finest essential oils. At the moment, we’re revising some of the oils we use due to sustainability issues and are taking the responsible step to cease stocking and using them to ensure we are doing our bit for nature as well as maintaining our own credibility,” says Taylor. “We will always continue to develop and produce world-class aromatherapy products.” PB
2017 Takes home the Outstanding Contribution Award at the Women Leaders Awards 2019 The company boosts its green credentials by partnering with Trees for the Future 2020 Developments are in the pipeline to expand the brand’s Age Resist line
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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7897 CACI Competition DPS.indd 1
01/08/2019 14:38
WIN A CACI SYNERGY SYSTEM WORTH £15,000 AT PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NORTH
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“To win was overwhelming. We’ve been working with the brand for over 20 years and it’s never let us down. It will mean we can give our clients even better, longer lasting results.” Sara Shoemark, Owner, Glow Salon
ONE LUCKY VISITOR WILL WIN How to enter: 1. Register for your free ticket to Professional Beauty North at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/wincaci with promo code WINCACI 2. Attend the show on 13-14 October at Event City, Manchester 3. Have your badge scanned on CACI stand F12 The winner will be announced at 3pm on Monday 22 October on CACI stand F12. T&Cs apply. For more information visit www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/cacicomp
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01/08/2019 14:38
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05/08/2019 10:48
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10
Professional Beauty North 2019
69
reasons
WHY SALON OWNERS
visit PB North
The show is back and bigger than ever, returning to Manchester on October 13–14 at new venue EventCity. Leading salon and spa owners reveal why attending Professional Beauty North is essential for their business
1
You network with like-minded people
2
It’s a chance to learn and upskill
“PB North is the beauty show in the North. I always enjoy myself and it’s because it’s a great opportunity to make new connections, especially at the salon and spa owner’s networking forum [relaunched this year as Salon and Spa Connect]. I’m looking forward to attending it this year and discussing key issues.”
“In our ever-evolving industry, it’s important to be up to date with the latest trends because clients are now much more educated on beauty. At the show, you can listen to inspirational speakers on the Live Stages, who can help grow your business, and there’s lots of information I’ve gained from previous seminars that I still use in my business today.”
Becky Woodhouse, chief executive of Pure Spa & Beauty, which has sites across the UK
Clare Pearson, owner of Clare Pearson Hair & Make-up, Oban
3
All the beauty brands are under one roof
4
It’s great for team-building
“The exhibition is great because it has all the biggest beauty brands in one room. So, if you’re looking to take on a new product range then you can speak to all the companies you’re interested in on the same day, enabling you to make the best choice. My top tip is to plan your day in advance because it goes by in a flash.”
“It’s an event that brings your team together, allowing you to make joint decisions on the new treatments and equipment to choose for the forthcoming year, and it’s a brilliant incentive for making them work that little bit harder at Christmas to fund such items. Where else in the country can you purchase everything you need? My business can’t afford to miss it.”
Emma Ginever, manager of The Essentials Beauty Salon, Birmingham
Gemma Holt, owner of Lily’s Beauty Salon, Shropshire
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Professional Beauty North 2019
70
5
There’s face-to-face contact with suppliers
“I’ve been going to Professional Beauty since it started and what I’ve found is you’re never too old or wise to keep learning. It’s a great day out because you get to speak to industry colleagues and suppliers face-toface, which is priceless. My top tip is to download the show app before the event so you have to hand the stand numbers of the exhibitors you want to meet.” Samantha Humberstone, owner of Lotions n Potions, Sheffield
7
You make friends for life
“I remember attending my first PB North when I was at college many moons ago and to this day I’ve only missed one show (it was my daughter’s wedding). Over the years, I’ve met amazing business people who have become good friends and we still make the show our yearly catch up, meeting in the Exec Club Lounge.” Sophia Patel, manager of Beauty at Noggi’s, Bolton
9
You can win amazing prizes
6
It’s ideal for time-poor business owners
“It’s important for my business that I remain at the forefront of the industry so I can continue to educate my team and clients. New products and treatment innovations are all presented in one space at the show, which saves precious time, while also allowing you to draw comparisons in an effective way.” Louise Caithness, managing director of three Zest Skin Spas, Edinburgh
8
It shows the industry at its best
“I feel as though Professional Beauty always takes a substantial amount of time to ensure that everyone is looked after and there is always someone on hand to point you in the right direction for your needs. The show is highly educational and it is always a delight to communicate with industry pros who ensure quality and care is at the top of their list for clients.” Sally Fox, business development manager at Tinkable Aesthetic Clinic, which has sites across the West Midlands
“It’s essential to know about the trends and fads affecting the industry, and PB North is the place to be to check out what’s new. I bring as many of my team with me as possible and plan ahead so I can personalise the day to suit each of their positions and passions. It’s also worth entering the show competitions – last year I won CACI’s Synergy system, which is amazing.” Sara Shoemark, owner of Glow Beauty, which has three sites in the North West One visitor is guaranteed to win a CACI Synergy by visiting the brand’s stand this year. Full competition details on page 76.
10
The education is out of this world
“You’re getting two days of industryleading speakers giving talks on everything from marketing and finance, to make-up and hair removal. If you go anywhere else in Europe you pay anything up to 50 euros to attend these types of shows, while we get to come to PB North for free. Plus, the education is only £3 a seminar, it’s a fantastic bargain. I think it’s fair to say, nobody can pull it off quite like Professional Beauty can.” Andy Rouillard, owner of Axiom Men’s Grooming Salon in Basingstoke
Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/north
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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VISIT US ON STAND M33
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Professional Beauty North 2019
72
Northern LIGHTS
Some of the biggest pro brands will be out in force to showcase their innovative launches at PB North. Here is just a taster of the exciting new products and treatments visitors can expect Eve Taylor
SKINCARE Dermalogica The skincare brand’s business consultants will be on hand to tailor opening orders for new accounts, making sure it suits your business needs. There will also be exclusive show offers, therapists doing treatment demos, and a chance to shop new and hero Dermalogica products. Latest releases from the brand include Prism Protect SPF30, Age Bright Spot Fader and Phyto-Nature Firming Serum.
Elemis Among the wide range of products on the Elemis stand will be new Superfood Boosters with prebiotic properties. Cica Calm is formulated to calm sensitive skin and reduces redness from dryness with fermented cica and agave. AHA Glow is aimed at lacklustre skin with acerola cherry and fermented pumpkin, actives rich in brightening AHAs, to leave skin revitalised.
Professional skincare and aromatherapy brand Eve Taylor will launch its Rejuvenating Aromatic Serum No6. Formulated to support the needs of post-menopausal skin experiencing loss of elasticity and texture, its ingredients include clary sage, galbanum, patchouli, argan, evening primrose and rosehip seed oils.
Guinot The French skincare brand will introduce its Eye Lifting treatment at the show. The 40-minute treatment is designed to reduce signs of ageing and fatigue around the eyes, targeting sagging eyelids, wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles. The protocol comprises a draining massage, muscle stimulation and an eye
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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mask, and there are several products to retail to clients alongside.
IIAA IIAA will showcase new launches including ANP’s Skin Moisture Lock, an anti-ageing supplement that contains hyaluronic acid and ceramides to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Also on show will be Environ’s latest free-standing merchandising unit, equipped with dimmable LED lighting to better display the products and generate more retail sales. Finally, Jane Iredale’s Beyond Matte Liquid Foundation will be unveiled, which is cruelty-free, vegan and available in 18 shades.
Image Skincare
Pevonia
The cosmeceutical skincare brand will be at the show with 2019 launches including the I Mask collection of Purifying Probiotic Mask and Firming Transformation Mask. The former contains yoghurt-based probiotics and super fruits, while the latter is a shimmery blue cream mask for improved texture, tightness and tone. Also on stand will be I Conceal treatment foundation with adaptable colour and sun protection.
The Pevonia team will be available to talk through its Complete Spa Service, a customisable network for owners and managers of spas, medi-spas and salons. This partner support programme includes an assigned account development manager and trainer, as well as on-site and regional training and marketing support.
Payot Payot will launch the Rose Lift Collagène with supplier Alan Howard, including Concreté Redensifying Booster Serum, Jour Lifting Cream and Nuit Resculpting OilCream, as well as Regard Lifting Care and Patch Regard Anti-Fatigue Lifting Express Treatment. Visitors can become a Payot partner from £750, receiving a free professional trolley starter pack worth £582 with an account opening of £1,500.
SBC The brand will bring new Professional Skincare launches to the show. Known for its gels, SBC is expanding with focused cream and serum formulas packed with actives. Check out the new Green Caviar Trio, which contains amino acids that boost collagen production and also help to detoxify and improve hydration. There will also be new treatment kits for manicure, pedicure, and pre- and post-waxing, great for independent therapists and students. >
Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/north
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Skinbrands The distributor of leading skincare brands Medik8, Priori and Vitage will
The Baldan Group
be at the show exhibiting a wide
The Italian manufacturer will showcase its popular devices including the Infra Baldan 3.0 – a multi-purpose machine that combines a stationary exercise bike with infrared lights to activate aerobic metabolism and promote weight loss. A series of sensors measure the client’s heartbeat, the data of which is converted into action pulses of infrared radiation at precise times to tailor-make the treatment.
range of products. Latest launches include Priori’s TTC fx360 Natural Enzyme Peel & Masque, which is infused with a triple turmeric complex to hydrate skin; and Medik8’s four CSA (vitamin C, sunscreen and vitamin A) Philosophy Skincare Kits.
DEVICES 3D-lipo 3D-lipo will officially launch its latest multi-technology body-contouring machine at this year’s Professional Beauty North, the 3D-Ultimatepro. New features include medical-grade silicone duo cryolipolysis applicators and radiofrequency incorporating vacuum. Additionally, an ergonomic
Sothys Following four years of research and development, Sothys will be showcasing its new six-piece Detox Energie range, which works to reduce the impact of pollution on
cavitation head and pinpoint variable temperature control allows for a 2900% usage increase compared to the first-generation model. The brand will also showcase its new HydrO2 facial machine, a 7-in-1 system – including hydro
the skin and boost cellular energy
peeling, oxygenation and cryo – for
using organic elderberry extract,
prescriptive facials.
Siberian ginseng root extract and detoxifying peptides.
Thalgo
Advanced Esthetics Solutions Advanced Esthetics Solutions will
Marine skincare brand Thalgo will
bring new cosmeceutical skincare
showcase its new anti-ageing
brand Noon Aesthetics to this
cosmeceutical line,
year’s event, designed to manage
Peeling Marin. There’s a
ageing skin, sun damage,
30-minute facial treatment
hyperpigmentation, loss of elasticity
and complementary retail
and acne. The company will also
range for clients to use in
launch Medi Lux, a new LED system
between treatments,
with four colours for different
including Soothing
benefits: blue to reduce
Repairing Balm and Sunscreen Cream. Those who place a
sebaceous activity and
Xlase Plus will be the standout machine on Biotec Italia’s stand, an advanced laser and light platform which offers multiple treatment applications. The device includes CPL hair removal, a YAG laser, 810nm diode laser applicator, Q-Switched YAG laser and the Erbium YAG laser. Other devices being showcased include HIFU Renova, a four-in-one machine which offers HIFU, radiofrequency, microdermabrasion and mesotherapy; and body contouring technology Fusionmed Cryoliposculpt. >
inflammation, green to assist with skin tone
minimum opening order of £1,000 within two
Biotec Italia
correction, yellow to
weeks of the show will
stimulate collagen
receive a package of
and red to
products, training and
help increase
marketing materials
lymphatic
worth £1,000.
flow.
Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/north
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WIN A CACI SYSTEM
CACI The machines brand will showcase its latest launch, Sculpt. The body system provides non-surgical toning and inch-loss treatments using muscle impulse stimulation via electrically conductive pads, placed over specific muscle groups to trigger contractions. Sculpt treatments are tailored to various areas of the body and can be performed on the bust/ pectoral area, buttocks, hips, abs and arms. Also on stand will be Synergy, CACI’s most advanced facial system for wrinkle-reduction and treatments to improve skin elasticity. It uses SPED dual action technology, fusing microcurrent and LED.
Visitors can be in with a chance to win a CACI Synergy system worth £15,000. The machine has 110 treatment settings for facial toning, hydration, acne treatments, skin peeling, jowl lifting and more. To enter the competition, register for PB North for free at professionalbeauty.co.uk/ register and use promo code WINCACI. Attend the show and visit the CACI stand to have your badge scanned. The winner will be announced on the stand on Monday, October 22, at 3pm
to the TempSure platform, which are ideal for driving continuous, non-invasive monopolar radiofrequency energy to areas such as the abdomen, arms, buttocks and thighs. The handpieces allow therapists to treat larger areas of the body at a faster rate and with no downtime.
Crystal Clear The Crystal Clear team will be demonstrating systems including Comcit-Elite, Plasma Lift and Oxygen Therapy on stand at the show. Exclusive offers will be available on the brand’s antiageing skincare line and Quartz Spa, a crystalinfused aromatherapy collection in three signature blends spanning 14 treatment rituals and home-use products.
Cynosure Aesthetic therapists can check out Cynosure’s new TempSure Firm body handpieces, the latest addition
technology. Bypassing the uppermost layers of skin tissue and instead focusing upon the subcutaneous fat cells, Onda works to reduce heating of the surface tissue and lessens cellulite while shrinking and stimulating collagen fibres for skin tightening. Lynton will also showcase its new IPL facial device, the IllumiFacial, and offer a Level 4 training course with purchase of the system.
Opatra
Fusion GT Aesthetic equipment supplier Fusion GT will be showcasing one of its newest machines, Biodermogenesi. The Italian-manufactured machine is a non-invasive method of skin regeneration that works using electromagnetic field technology combined with electro-stimulation and vacuum. Billed as able to regenerate the matrix of the skin by reorganising its structure, Biodermogenesi can be used to treat stretch marks, cellulite, signs of ageing, scarring and more.
Opatra will showcase its latest facial skin analyser, the Opatra Dome. Measuring the surface and subsurface of the skin using RGB visible light, PL polarised light and UV spectrum imaging technology, multispectral photos are captured that examine clients’ fine lines, wrinkles, spots and more. Visitors to the stand can see how the device creates customised reports and documents progress for use in treatment planning, and can claim an exclusive offer of £2,000 off the Dome, by quoting PBNOFFER19. >
Lynton Lasers The laser device manufacturer will bring Deka’s Onda machine to PB North, a body-shaping device that uses microwave-based coolwaves
Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/north
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Accredited Level 4 Training in Light Therapy Earn up to 60 CPD Delivered by Wynyard Aesthetic Academy
Experience Celluma at: Olympia Beauty, 29-30 September, Stand #G10 CCR London, 10-11 October, Stand #E23 Professional Beauty North, 13-14 October, Stand #M28
Celluma: Flex with a Purpose ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊
Most globally recognised, clinically validated & awarded professional LED Contours & shape taking whilst staying in place, portable & stand-free Class IIa medical devices, FDA-Cleared, medically CE Marked Clinically proven wavelengths, powerful skin rejuvenation Global market leader, registered for sale in 73 countries Extensive post-sale marketing & educational support Choose from 9 professional grade models
“My therapies not only cover progressive skin care but total body wellness, so the Celluma was a natural choice. Adding advanced LED technology with the added benefit to mold the unit to adapt to body parts for healthy ageing and rejuvenating treatments is excellent, as it allows for larger surface coverage. The Celluma device is an integral part of my Masterlift therapy. Its advanced technology allows the deeply penetraing wavelengths to interact at a cellular level giving relief to pain, reduced inflammation and improvement in conditions such as acne.” Marie Reynolds, Skin & Wellness Therapist Fortnum and Mason, Piccadilly, London • MRL CLinic, Norfolk
MEDICALLY CE MARKED FOR:
Acne • Skin care • Dermal wound healing • Decreasing inflammation • Increasing micro circulation • General pain • Muscle & joint pain • Muscle tension, spasm & stiffness
PROFESSIONAL ENQUIRY:
+44 (0) 203 981 3993 +44 (0) 7767 367 070
www.celluma.co.uk
OLYMPIA
Celebrating
BEAUTY 15 29 - 30 SEPTEMBER 2019
YEARS
GRAND HALL, OLYMPIA LONDON
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AUTUMN’S BIGGEST EVENT FOR BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS • Over 500 exhibiting brands • NEW Treatwell stage in partnership with The British Beauty Council • NEW The SMP & PMU Bootcamps • Four live competitions • Live seminars and talks • NEW The Education Club • Hundreds of product launches
See you there!
SUN 29 SEPT 10AM* - 6PM MON 30 SEPT 10AM - 5PM AT OLYMPIA LONDON, W14 8UX *EARLY OPEN AT 9.30AM EXCLUSIVELY FOR SALON & SPA OWNERS’ CLUB MEMBERS
REGISTER FOR YOUR TICKETS TODAY
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Nail Harmony
NAILS Louella Belle The distributor will bring Footlogix Pediceuticals, showcasing new additions such as the 4-Piece Implement Kit and Cleansing Wipes. Brand experts will be on hand to talk to visitors about the mousse-based product line with dermal infusion technology, formulated to tackle rough and peeling skin, calluses, cracked heels and nail fungus.
Millennium Nails The company’s entire range of products has been rebranded and there will be new additions launched at the show: a new range of glitter and coloured acrylics, the Atom Gel Polish range, and a HEMA-free and primerless liquid monomer. Demos will take place on the stand during the show, and techs can also sign up for free to the Millennium Platinum Club for a 40% lifetime discount on all products.
system in a full range of shades. Plus, there will be special deals to celebrate the brand’s first birthday.
Nail Gaga The British nail brand will be showcasing new launches in its Gelore Gel Polish line. Don’t miss the AW19 collection, which includes a range of soft berry, pink and nude shades. The company also sells a huge range of chrome pigments and acrylic powders. Its AW19 Chrome Illusion pigments come in magenta, deep blue and a two-toned purple-gold.
Nail techs can shop the autumn Gelish collection. The brand is looking again to iconic film star Marilyn Monroe, following the 2018 Forever Fabulous collection. The colours are: Some Girls Prefer Pearls, white shimmer; All American Beauty, sheer nude; A Girl and Her Curls, aubergine shimmer; That’s So Monroe, cool brown shimmer; Flirty and Fabulous, teal crème; and Classic Red Lips, tomato red crème. The collection is available individually or as a set, as well as in Gelish Dip.
Pure Nails Pure Nails will launch Halo PoliBuild Precision Gel at this year’s show. Also available will be The Book of Shadows, the brand’s autumn collection of 12 5D cat eye gels. EasiBuild and Acrylic kits will also be available to buy on stand. Halo Gel Polish can be purchased for the special show price of £5, and the Pure Nails education team will be available for demonstrations on the adjacent stand. >
Nails by Annabel Making its PB North debut, Nails by Annabel will be on hand with 15 educators to talk techs through its new education programme. Visitors can check out pre-mixed glitter acrylics, new acrylic colours, nail forms and the Glitterbels acrylic
Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/north
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EPIGENETIC SERUM ACTIVE INGREDIENT SERUM WITH EFFECT IN THE DEPTH OF THE SKIN
WINNERS OF THE
PURE BEAUTY PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2018
SHOW OFFER
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Professional Beauty North 2019
82 LASHES, BROWS AND MAKE-UP
TANNING AND WAXING
BUSINESS & TRAINING
Eyelash Design Company
Australian Bodycare
LV College
The lash and brow treatment brand will bring iRevive to the show, a Lash Perfect product line designed to enhance lash extension services. The treatment aims to reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness under the eyes, with under-eye patches, a serum and a rose quartz roller. Also on stand will be new Magnetise Magnetic Eyeliner for use with the brand’s Magnetic Lashes.
Australian Bodycare UK has teamed up with Surrey-based salon Queen Bee in the Woods to offer a Babtac-accredited Intimate Waxing Course designed for those who are trained in warm waxing and would like to enhance their treatments. Find out more on the company’s stand. The brand was recently acquired in a management buyout so drop by to meet the new team.
Prospective students can check out the course offering at beauty training academy LV College, such as the new nanoblading courses in brows, lips, eyeliner, areola and scalp. The courses have been designed to teach the latest techniques, including hair strokes and ombré brows. Students work on live models and receive a professional kit and support after completing their course. Other courses include dermaplaning and hyaluron pen.
Kryolan
Phorest
The pro make-up brand will launch a new range of Cosmetic Counter Displays for salons, complete with product and put together with clients in mind, from bridal beauty to full glam. MUAs can also check out Kryolan’s full range of make-up, kits, brushes, accessories and tools, including the Dermacolor, High Definition, Aquacolor and Supracolor lines.
Essential Beauty Supplies
Those looking to take on a new salon software system can visit the Phorest stand to find out how its cloud-based system can help manage their schedule, staff, appointments and stock. Phorest also recently updated its Salon Branded App, which allows salon owners to choose themes and colours to match salon branding and create a personalised app to help increase profitability, branding and efficiency. PB
Essential Beauty Supplies will bring a wide range of products from its hair removal brands to the show. From Outback Organics featured products will include Green and Gold Massage Oils, Peppermint and Lemongrass Wonder Balm and Eucalyptus Strip Wax, among others. Depil8, a brand dedicated to affordable waxing supplies, will also have a stand, with products such as its Lavender, Pearl, Azulene and Aloe Vera strip waxes, available in 425g tubs or a 100g roller cartridges.
Professional Beauty North takes place on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. The only way to get in for free is to register in advance online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/north
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Advertorial
BECOMEPART PARTOF OFTHE THE BECOME BECOMEPART PARTOF OFTHE THE BECOME GUINOTFAMILY FAMILY GUINOTFRANCHISE FRANCHISE GUINOT GUINOT With many different skincare brands market each with With so so many different skincare brands onon thethe market each with their own story, what helps you separate the wheat from the their own story, what helps you separate the wheat from the chaff when it comes choosing a Professional Skincare brand? chaff when it comes to to choosing a Professional Skincare brand?
Following success franchise model in France, Guinot Following thethe success of of thethe franchise model in France, Guinot have now brought the exciting salon franchise opportunity have now brought the exciting salon franchise opportunity to to thethe and Ireland. UKUK and Ireland.
Salon professionals constantly experiencing challenges when Salon professionals areare constantly experiencing challenges when selecting skincare brands to work with, to ever-changing market selecting skincare brands to work with, duedue to ever-changing market trends, company acquisitions market saturation. While many trends, company acquisitions andand market saturation. While many brands come those with staying power able to deliver brands come andand go,go, those with staying power areare able to deliver results consistently enjoy a reputation reliability. results consistently andand enjoy a reputation forfor reliability.
Whether existing salon owner somebody who would Whether youyou areare an an existing salon owner or or somebody who would to open your own salon business, franchising with Guinot allows likelike to open your own salon business, franchising with Guinot allows anyone with a passion beauty business to be part of this anyone with a passion forfor beauty andand business to be part of this thriving industry. thriving industry.
third year running, Guinot reclaimed ForFor thethe third year running, Guinot reclaimed Guild Award of Excellence “Best Anti-Ageing thethe Guild Award of Excellence “Best Anti-Ageing Supplier 2019”. This is testament to Guinot’s Supplier 2019”. This is testament to Guinot’s consistent approach dedication consistent approach andand dedication to to professional skincare. Guinot beauty therapists, professional skincare. Guinot beauty therapists, better known ‘Beauty Doctors’ a sounding better known as as ‘Beauty Doctors’ areare a sounding board brand your clients. board for for thethe brand andand your clients. Guinot continue to hero high street beauty Guinot continue to hero thethe high street beauty salon; with their to provide consistent salon; with their aimaim to provide consistent support through their fully qualified Business Development Managers support through their fully qualified Business Development Managers who there to help support their network. who areare there to help andand support their network. Guinot’s training opportunities include Training School in Ascot, Guinot’s training opportunities include thethe Training School in Ascot, Berkshire, which offers regular initial refresher training courses Berkshire, which offers regular initial or or refresher training courses throughout thethe year. throughout year. To To complement and enhance long-term results, Guinot offers an an complement and enhance long-term results, Guinot offers extensive range of products, covering all all skin types and concerns. extensive range of products, covering skin types and concerns. Salon owners cancan enjoy new and exciting promotions throughout Salon owners enjoy new and exciting promotions throughout thethe year to to increase business profitability all all with thethe fullfull support of of year increase business profitability with support their Business Development Manager. their Business Development Manager.
franchise opportunity brings with it efficient organisation, TheThe franchise opportunity brings with it efficient organisation, creative marketing strategies a clear business structure to help creative marketing strategies andand a clear business structure to help franchisees succeed. Guinot’s iconic interior design is instantly franchisees succeed. Guinot’s iconic interior design is instantly recognisable to help with brand promotion, associate recognisable to help with brand promotion, andand as as an an associate member of the British Franchise Association (bfa), a Guinot franchisee member of the British Franchise Association (bfa), a Guinot franchisee assured of ethical business practises franchising. cancan be be assured of ethical business practises andand fairfair franchising. With dynamic training, advanced business support a proven With dynamic training, advanced business support andand a proven model, Guinot Franchise opportunity effectively integrates model, thethe Guinot Franchise opportunity effectively integrates Guinot brand with entrepreneurs own personal business thethe Guinot brand with an an entrepreneurs own personal business techniques creativity. techniques andand creativity. Guinot a revered brand with international reputation Guinot is aisrevered brand with an an international reputation forfor excellence, would part of this. Statistically, Guinot salons excellence, andand youyou would be be part of this. Statistically, Guinot salons in France that converted toGuinot a Guinot franchise experienced in France that converted to a franchise experienced an an average turnover increase of 20 percent. average turnover increase of 20 percent. Thinking a Guinot Franchise might bebe thethe right direction forfor your Thinking a Guinot Franchise might right direction your existing beauty salon or or your new business venture? existing beauty salon your new business venture? Please contact ourour Franchise Development Manager, Ellie Tidy QFP Please contact Franchise Development Manager, Ellie Tidy QFP on on 01344 637503 or or email ellie.tidy@guinot.co.uk 01344 637503 email ellie.tidy@guinot.co.uk
Thinking about becoming a Guinot Stockist? Thinking about becoming a Guinot Stockist? Please callcall 01344 873123 to to arrange a meeting with a Guinot Please 01344 873123 arrange a meeting with a Guinot Business Development Manager. Business Development Manager.
2 2
guinot.co.uk | 01344873123 guinot.co.uk| 01344 873123 Stay connected @GuinotUKIreland Stay connected @GuinotUKIreland
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Promotional Feature
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Getting
retail
RIGHT
M
Retail sales can be a valuable addition to your salon’s cash flow and profit levels. The NBF explains how to make the most of this opportunity and take steps to ensure your staff are retail savvy
ake your display area easily accessible, well-lit, and clearly priced, says Tori Priestley, director of marketing at the National Beauty Federation (NBF). It’s no good having products on shelves behind the reception desk, as this creates a barrier and clients can’t browse. “All of your staff, including front of house, should be knowledgeable about the products you sell and able to answer potentially tricky client queries, such as why supermarket products can be cheaper,” says Priestley. “You could ask your supplier to run a training event for your salon so everyone fully understands all the products and their benefits. A detailed guide to prices, wages and profits is available free to NBF members at nhf.info/profits-guide
Sell, sell, sell? Employees can be reluctant to act as a “salesperson”, so take the time to understand why they may not feel confident about retail sales. “Make it clear that you don’t want your employees to do a ‘hard sell’,” explains Priestley. “Their role is to identify their client’s need during the consultation and provide solutions – this includes recommending products for use at home between salon treatments.” It’s a good idea to encourage your staff to recommend products they love to use themselves – their enthusiasm will be infectious and encourage more sales. Tell therapists to give the products to the client to handle while talking about it as they will then be more likely to buy. They should also give the client written details of the products used for their treatment so they know what to look for, whether it’s for now or later. Find out more about the importance of client consultations at nhf.info/client-consultation
handbag-sized impulse buys on VISIT US ON STAND D37 display at your reception desk,” she says. “Make sure they’re clearly priced so that clients can EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER make a quick decision to buy. You 13-14 OCTOBER 2019 can even start promoting Christmas gifts and vouchers at this time of year for your more organised clients. “Don’t forget to use your website and social media accounts to give autumn and winter skin and nail care advice and to promote all those great seasonal products you have on offer.” Untitled-15 1
Rewarding your staff
17/07/2019 12:3
A monthly prize for best salesperson is a great way to motivate your staff to sell more, says Priestley. Find out how to reward your team for long-term success at nhf.info/reward “Make sure your staff understand how important retail is to the success of the business, and also make it clear when interviewing for new employees that retail sales will be a key part of the job,” says Priestley. NBF members can download a free in-depth guide to employing staff at nhf.info/recruitment-guide
The NBF For less than 75p a day, the National Beauty Federation (NBF) will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. The NBF is the sister trade association of the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF). Find out more at nhf.info/nbf Join the NBF before the end of September 2019 and quote PBS25 to get £25 off your membership fee.
Autumn season sales The autumn is a great time to promote your retail products, advises Priestley. “Once September kicks in, skincare products and moisturisers are in demand as the temperature starts to dip. And always have some
Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965
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School’SsSION
Professional Beauty North 2019
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IN SE
L
Whether you’re looking to upgrade your treatment menu or increase your salon’s reach on social media, there’s education aplenty for all beauty businesses at PB North 2019
eading experts from across the beauty, spa and wellness sectors will be heading up some inspirational and educational talks at Professional Beauty North, taking place at EventCity Manchester on October 13–14. Across our seven Live Stages – Trend Watch, Business Skills, Digital, How to, Warpaint, Advanced Treatments, and Natural & Holistic – seminars, Salon and Spa Connect networking session, and the Education Forum, there will be lots of learning opportunities for start-ups through to seasoned pros looking to upskill. We highlight some of the sessions not to miss.
DON’T MISS
If you want to… see future trends How to incorporate CBD oil into your treatments Trend Watch Stage, Sunday, October 13, 11am With cannabidiol’s popularity reaching new heights, consumer desire for treatments containing CBD oil is growing. We reveal how to work it into your menu.
DON’T MISS
If you want to… be more financially savvy Five proven strategies to increase your prices without losing clients Business Skills Stage, Sunday, October 13, 2pm Business coach Susan Routledge on the different strategies for increasing your treatment prices without negatively impacting custom.
Cash flow management – how to prevent your business from losing money Business Skills Stage, Monday, October 14, 12pm From managing your cash flow to minimising spend, learn how to be cash confident with our expert panel – Justyna Rostek, director of Guinot Salon Earlsfield; Becky Woodhouse, CEO of Pure Spa & Beauty; and Chris Cheeney, managing director of CDC Accounting.
The nail art trends set to dominate 2020 Trend Watch Stage, Monday, October 14, 1pm Nail artist and YouTuber Kirsty Meakin will look at the hottest fashion trends for next year and demonstrate how to convert them into wearable nail art designs clients will love.
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86 DON’T MISS
DON’T MISS
If you want to… master express treatments
If you want to… debate beauty education
Your biggest waxing questions answered
Education Forum
How to… Stage, Sunday, October 13, 1pm Waxing pros Andy Rouillard and Sam Marshall answer your burning treatment questions, from how to master the perfect Brazilian to waxing clients with mobility issues.
Monday, October 14, 10:45am–1:45pm The Education Forum aims to raise industry standards and prepare the future beauty workforce, with lively debate between employers and lecturers on the skills needed to succeed.
How to create a full glam make-up look How to… Stage, Monday, October 14, 11am PB’s Make-up Specialist of the Year 2019 Betsy-Dora Turner will demo how to create the ultimate glam evening look, revealing top make-up tricks along the way.
SPONSORED BY:
DON’T MISS
If you want to… upskill in social media Instagram – navigating your fastest growing business tool Digital Stage, Sunday, October 13, 12pm Learn how to use the most popular social media platform to grow your business, from finding new clients and having a standout brand, to making the most of the analytics.
How to find your salon’s audience on social media Digital Stage, Sunday, October 13, 3pm PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin will explain how to find the right audience for your business on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter, and build content that’s suited to them.
NEW FOR 2019 Salon and Spa Connect
Aesthetic Therapist Agenda
Natural & Holistic Stage
The newly rebranded networking forum is the perfect opportunity for salon and spa owners to discuss business challenges and share solutions in an informal setting. Hot topics this year include staff recruitment and retention, retailing and social media.
This informative two-day programme is aimed at advanced therapists who are looking to continue their education in the aesthetic field, with the agenda split into four sections – skin, advanced treatments, equipment, and career and education.
This Live Stage, organised by hypnotherapist Lizzie Falconer, is a chance to learn more about how to authentically offer holistic treatments in your business. Celebrity wellbeing expert Meg Matthews will be giving advice on dealing with menopause.
Live Stages cost £3 per session or £1 for students. To see the full programme and book, visit: professionalbeauty.co.uk/livestages The Education Forum costs £10, including lunch and goody bags provided by Elemis, Eve Taylor, Dermalogica and SBC Gels. Book at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/educationforum
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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VISIT US ON STAND K34
EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019
A Skin Solution for Every Client Untitled-15 1
Resurface - Wrinkles/Lines
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17/07/2019 12:31
Remodel - Facial Skin Tightening
Courtesy of Laser Skin Solutions
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Call 01477 536 977 or visit lynton.co.uk/3JUVE Untitled-21 1
26/07/2019 14:01
Salon & Spa Connect Looking to find business solutions? Join your fellow professionals to share experiences, knowledge and tips at a friendly and informal networking event.
BOOK TODAY AT www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/networking RETENTION MARKETING & CLIENT LOYALTY • SOCIAL MEDIA • RETAILING STAFF RECRUITMENT & RETENTION • CASH FLOW MANAGEMENT 7704 Spa Networking Lunch NORTH19 August.indd 1
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All in the
mind
The new Natural & Holistic Stage at PB North is organised by hypnotherapy practitioner Lizzie Falconer. She tells us why spas and salons need to tap into the power of the mind You have a background in hypnotherapy and meditation. How are you working with spas and salons? “I’ve been running retreat weekends in Norfolk for a long time and I’ll take a yoga teacher and a massage therapist along. Spas are gradually waking up to the idea of introducing a retreat-style package to their clients because they know more people now want to feel that they’ve had an element of retreat as well as a treat. So, I’m talking to a few spas at the moment about organising those. “I have a platform called Beautiful Thinking, which is all about keeping the body healthy to keep the mind healthy; I’ve been working with spa therapist teams including at Weavers House in Lavenham, Suffolk, helping them de-stress.”
What sort of training do you give therapists? “I go in to various companies (not just spas) to help staff with wellness and mental health. I talk about what you should and shouldn’t be eating for stress, anxiety and depression – which is an epidemic now. I often do group therapy work to start then get them to lie down and take them into a deep relaxation before teaching them some quick NLP [neurolinguistic programming] techniques to use at their desk if they’re feeling tense. “I work with therapists a lot and two reasons have come up in terms of why there is a high turnover of staff in spas: they get quite down because they work in areas with little daylight, and they’re touching people all the time so they’re picking up on the energy of their clients. “I talk to them about how to self-protect and not to tap into other people’s energy and how to restore their own energy at the end of a treatment.”
What practical tips do you give them? “Because I work with clients myself on a one-toone basis, I know how draining that can be, so I teach therapists to keep checking in on themselves. “We do visualisation exercises, for example, where they surround themselves in bright white light or a mirrored ball. If you’re working with someone who is very draining, that can really help you feel as though you’re not absorbing their energy but you’re still connected to them and can still give. That helps the client too, because if you’re absorbing their baggage from them, they’re never going to deal with it. “Another tip I give – and this sounds a bit ‘out there’ – but let’s say you’ve done a 90-minute massage on a very emotional client who has offloaded on to you, I advise going outside to cleanse and ground yourself by taking your shoes and socks off and walking in the grass. Then come back in and cleanse the room. I’m not saying that works in a practical way but the ritualistic idea of cleansing yourself can be very powerful. “I talk to them about their diets as well. I was at a spa the other day and the therapists were all eating crisps and sweets and I thought, ‘your brain isn’t going to cope with stress and anxiety if you’re doing that to your body’, so we talked about a lot of that as well.” >
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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How can spas integrate hypnotherapy into a client offer? “I believe massage and facials could go further. Your mind controls your body, we know that. And when you go into a very deep relaxed state, as you do during a treatment, there is research to suggest that you can change your body from the inside out. So, let’s just say you’re having a pro-age facial, if you were to listen to a recorded therapy meditation that was specifically for cell renewal, then theoretically, that treatment is going to continue to work even after you’ve had your facial. Or instead of listening to whale music during a massage, a guided meditation then you’re giving your body a massage from the inside as well. “One thing I am exploring with spas now is tailor-made meditation massages. Either the therapist would listen to my meditation and choreograph their massage around it, or
I could do it the other way around and time what I’m saying to the movements of the therapy. It’s then played during the treatment, which becomes a meditation massage. The spa could charge more, and can give the client that download to listen to afterwards to bring back that feeling. “When I’m doing hypnotherapy, it can be for anything from addiction, to pain relief, to fear. So, depending on the budget of the spa, if they had a standard massage, they could offer a choice of existing recorded guided meditations, as a simple, low-cost add-on.”
How can salons and spas introduce spirituality in an authentic way? “It might be something as simple as giving everyone a positive affirmation to go home with. That sort of touch allows the client to feel a little bit as if it’s a spiritual experience. And that’s where client demand is really changing – a lot of people choose things like yoga retreats over spas now because they want a spiritual experience. “You can carry on doing exactly what you’re doing but you can question, ‘am I giving that client the sort of care that touches the mind, body and spirit?’. Spiritual doesn’t mean being ‘out there’; it’s about making clients feel cared for on a deeper level, so they feel a bit more empowered. Even if they don’t believe in the spiritual side of what you do, they leave feeling more connected.” PB
Lizzie Falconer is organising the Natural & Holistic Stage at Professional Beauty North on October 13–14 at EventCity Manchester. Find out more at professionalbeauty.co.uk/livestages
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Game ON Prove yourself as the best in your specialism – lashes, make-up or nails – by entering one of the exciting competitions at PB North, and gain much more than a trophy
North Lash Championships The North Lash Championships are back for 2019, following a successful debut at the show last year. Taking place on both days of PB North (October 13-14), the competition is formatted to showcase the exceptional creative and technical skills required to make it in the rapidly growing UK lash extensions market. The categories have been refined for the second year of the competition, taking feedback and new trends into account. For 2019, they are: Classic, Russian 2D-4D and New Volume. In each category, there are three divisions: Novice (for competitors who have up to 18 months’ industry experience), Professional (from 18 months to three years) and Expert (three years or more).
Alongside PB’s Lash Championships competition director, independent consultant Heather Hughes, the judges are Alina Zvirble, an award-winning lash artist, educator and founder of lash brand and studio Lash4ever; Sarah-Anne Barham, owner of SarahAnne’s Beauty and distributor of Novalash UK; and Inese Stepanova, trainer for London Lash Pro and owner of I Nova Studio. “I’m so excited to see the competition grow and to see more lash artists taking advantage of the opportunity to advance their career. I look forward to a busy two days,” says Hughes. Categories and divisions: • Classic: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions • Russian 2D-4D: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions • New Volume: Expert, Professional and Novice divisions. First place winners will receive a trophy and second and third will receive medals. Every competitor gets a certificate of participation. The deadline for entering the North Lash Championships is Friday, September 27. Entry price per category: Professionals: £75 Students: £25 Enter now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/competitions
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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North Nail Championships Professional nail techs will have the chance to prove their skills, attention to detail and passion in the North Nail Championships, taking place across both days of the show. There are no student categories this year. Categories: •P ink and white gel • Gel-polish •P ink and white acrylic • S alon nail •N ail masters •M ixed media boxed •H and painted boxed •P hotographic classic •P hotographic nail art. First place winners will be receive a trophy, second place gets an award and all other competitors will receive a participation certificate. The deadline for entering the North Nail Championships is Friday, September 27. Entry price per category: £24.50 Enter now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/competitions
Warpaint North Make-up Championships Open to both experienced pros and keen students, the one-day Warpaint North Make-up competition (taking place on Monday 14 October) offers the perfect opportunity for MUAs to showcase their make-up mastery, interpretation of themes and originality. Categories and themes: • Film & TV: Revolutions • Real Beauty: International woman • Runway: Karl Lagerfeld • Body Painting: Social activism. There are prizes for the best pro and student entrants in each category, with winners taking home an award. The deadline for entering is Friday, September 27. Entry price per category: Professionals: £25 Students: £10 Enter now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/competitions
Professional Beauty North takes place at EventCity in Manchester on October 13–14. Secure your free ticket by registering online in advance at professionalbeauty.co.uk/north
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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SET YOUR STUDENTS UP FOR CAREER SUCCESS What’s on for colleges on Monday 14th October EDUCATION FORUM Discuss with leading employers and specialists how to get students into the industry
Bring 50+ students for a free Education Forum ticket plus a £20 voucher to spend at the show Email colleges@professionalbeauty.co.uk to register a group of students
INSPIRATION & TRAINING Seminars for just £1 per session for lecturers and students DO YOUR STUDENTS HAVE WHAT IT TAKES? Win £1,000 by entering your students into the College Cup EXCLUSIVE LECTURER BENEFITS Free refreshments and drinks reception in the lounges DISCOUNTED COACH HIRE 50% off coach hire, courtesy of
Register for free tickets at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/collegetickets #PBNorth @pro_beauty ProfessionalBeautyUK pro_beauty01
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Lasting IMPRESSION Advances in technology from across the globe, coupled with technicians’ impressive artistic expression, are making semipermanent make-up one of the industry’s most exciting sectors right now. GEORGIA SEAGO explores the latest trends
S
emi-permanent make-up has come a long way from the blocky brows, harsh eyeliner and frosted lips that it was known for in the past. The sector is now home to highly skilled and creative technicians who are turning the procedures into real artistry. “Brow treatments have improved beyond all measure, with new needles that can design perfect ombré, realistic hair strokes and combination pixel procedures, creating everything from the most natural to dramatic ‘fashion’ brows,” says Dawn Forshaw, chief executive of Finishing Touches Group, which offers SPMU and micropigmentation training. One of the most game-changing developments in the industry is needles that carry a pigment cartridge, meaning techs no longer have to dip into pigment for every hair stroke. “We can now offer ‘no dip’ brows and we have new flexible needles to create superfine simulated hair
strokes, while new pigments mean brows don’t alter in colour over time; they simply fade,” adds Forshaw. But it’s not just semi-permanent brow treatments that have improved dramatically in recent years – “We have new eyeliner techniques that allow us to really enhance the lashes, and lips can now look very subtle with colours that last,” adds Forshaw. With so many exciting developments to give clients better results than ever before, Forshaw wants more focus to be placed on the safety of semi-permanent make-up (SPMU) treatments. “What clients need to be educated about are safe procedures. 2019 has seen many good SPMU schools globally link together in support of our Safety in Micropigmentation campaign, devised to raise awareness of the importance of safe devices, needles and pigments,” she says. Read on for the latest treatment developments. >
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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SKIN – FAUX FRECKLES AND A FLAWLESS GLOW “When I look back at how the industry was five years ago, all there was were treatments for eyebrows, eyes and lips, and it was always quite a blocky effect,” says permanent make-up specialist Sian Dellar. Dellar has recently seen an influx of clients requesting faux freckles, sometimes dubbed “the Markle sparkle” thanks to the Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle’s freckled skin. “Five years ago, there was no such treatment. Today, there’s a whole host of other procedures such as freckles and foundation, which are becoming increasingly popular. The industry has evolved a lot,” says Dellar. Semi-permanent freckles only take around 15-20 minutes because the aim is a very subtle effect, really more of a “lunchtime tweakment”. It’s done with a machine by implanting pigment just under the second layer of the skin for a soft-focus finish, explains Dellar: “It can be done in any colour of the client’s choice and the good thing is that if they already have freckles and they’re not so prominent, we can just go over them in the same shade to make them darker.” Rather than the “colouring in” procedures of days gone by, Dellar says SPMU artists are now able to create far more natural-looking results, thanks to advanced apparatus and creative innovation around the world. While she credits the US with the creation of the SPMU freckle trend, other experts look to Asia for the
Clockwise from top: Before, during and after a BB Glow Facial at LV College
latest techniques that are taking off. Kim Hunjan, creative director of LV College, an academy that specialises in semi-permanent make-up, teaches a new SPMU foundation treatment from South Korea called BB Glow. “Over the past two years, the SPMU industry has blown up, and Korean techniques are always strides ahead,” says Hunjan. “We now have the knowledge to make the skin glow and look smoother, and to create naturallooking beauty spots and freckles,” she says.
Perfect base It’s a huge increase in the quality of pigments, coupled with a far better understanding about the intricacies of placing pigment in the skin, that is making treatments like BB Glow possible. “We can now fully transform the face from start to finish, including a dewy foundation look,” says Hunjan. “BB Glow uses a light foundation-like pigment combined with mesotherapy to create beautiful, flawless and glowing skin for months.” In LV College’s BB Glow treatment, the skin is cleansed and exfoliated before a serum containing pigment, epidermal growth factor and vitamins is implanted into it. A soothing mask and healing balm are applied to finish the treatment. “Thanks to Instagram influencers, people want skin that looks Photoshopped in real life, and our course teaches students how to achieve this with ease,” says Hunjan. Advances in SPMU technology have led to much more business in recent years, and more interest from clients in new procedures, says Hunjan. “Most of the treatments now are super-fast, painless and have soothing elements. This means that clients are coming back for more top-ups. >
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Everyone
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13/08/2019 10:40
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LIPS – YOUR LIPS BUT BETTER Gone are the days of ice pink lips with harsh brown liner. “When I first started in the ’90s, it was all about lip liner, that Pamela Anderson look with a different colour on the border to the one in the middle,” says Karen Betts, chief executive of K.B Pro, which delivers SMPU training programmes and has a range of pigments. “Things have become a lot softer now with colour diffusion; those harsh lines look really old fashioned.” Diffusion and blending are the keywords when it comes to modern lip tattooing, with artists now able to create a blushed, 3D effect that enhances a client’s natural lips rather than painting over them. Betts explains that rather than an obvious lip liner look, technicians can now reconstruct or touch up a client’s natural lip border, with the colour practically invisible and blending through to the lips. “If someone does want a darker colour now, it’s blended in to create more of a 3D effect, with a slightly more vibrant tone of the same shade on the outer edges where you can blend in to make areas look lighter or darker and create contour,” she says. Some technicians – although not Betts herself – are also promoting their lip treatments as an alternative to filler because of the fairly recent ability to create dimension, shape and the illusion of plumper lips. Betts does, however, market her expertise in placing colour and definition back into the natural boundaries of the lips to her 40-plus-aged clientele. “Permanent make-up complements lip filler perfectly, because there’s no point having it if there’s no lip boundary – the practitioner needs to know where to place the filler,” she says.
Before After
Before After Two examples of lip treatments by Karen Betts
Pucker up Betts says SPMU lip treatments are now much more accessible to men for the same reasons; technicians can work with the lips’ natural tones to add very subtle colour and shape back into ageing lips – with no danger of it looking as though the client is wearing lipstick. “We can now add a really soft hue of their natural tone. We want them to look like they’ve
got natural lip tone, which has a lot of hues of purple, blue and grey. We can use a very translucent pigment and dilute it down,” explains Betts. SPMU lip treatments have evolved so much, yet many prospective clients are still in the dark about what can be achieved using the advanced techniques and superior pigments now available. “Not many people actually know that these lip treatments are being done, but I’m aiming to get more awareness out,” says Betts. “Artists who already have a strong brow business and are specialist trained in lip techniques should talk to every existing client about what can be done with their lips. That’s really the simplest and most effective way to start building up lip clients.” >
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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EYES – SOFT, POWDERED BROWS AND LINER When most people think of semi-permanent make-up, they think of brows. SPMU innovators are hard at work refining and perfecting the latest techniques to keep up with fast-moving brow trends, developing ways to create every client’s dream brows. Semi-permanent make-up expert Tracie Giles is heralding whip shading as the hottest new trend, a technique that aims to create the softest and most natural-looking hair-stroke brows. “Microblading is everywhere now but whip shading came about because when you make hair strokes on someone who doesn’t have hair in the background it can often look flat,” says Giles. “Whip shading allows you to add dimension and texture”.
Soft touch Whip shading is a technique that’s long been popular with tattoo artists to get a faded, gradient finish. In SPMU, the artist stacks lots of lines on top of each other, flicking upwards and moving the needle round in a loop to build up colour, all while barely touching the skin. “You’re not working in the skin but skimming across the top; it’s like trying to skim a pebble across a lake. We use a nano-needle and the hand works at the same speed as the needle; it’s like a continual brushing to build strokes upwards,” explains Giles. The effect is as if the artist has scattered dust over the skin – soft, pretty and as if the brows have had a
Before
After Whip-shaded brows and liner by Tracie Giles Bespoke Permanent Make-up
little colour applied and then been simply brushed into shape. “The artist can decide to whip shade more in some areas than others,” says Giles, “In the spine of the brow where the hairs grow to meet, for example, we could whip shade more as it’s slightly darker and you’d then get that graduation of colour that gives much more realism to the brow.” Giles’s most advanced technicians have got whip shading down to a fine art, extending its application to semi-permanent liner and applying tiny pixellations of colour throughout the lash line. “We go through the lash line and take it out into a flick, following the placement of the last lashes, whip shading slightly more towards the lashes and less into the lid to give a soft graduation of colour,” says Giles, adding “It’s really advanced and not all of my artists to do it. They practise on an inflated balloon and if it pops they know they’re applying too much pressure.” Giles is excited by the innovation in the SPMU industry, and notes that the skillset required to stay at the top of the game is becoming increasingly diverse: “The technology, pigments, devices and trends are always changing. The kinds of effects that we are able to deliver are going to take the industry into such high degrees of skill and artistry.” PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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EVENTCITY MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019
3 EXCITING COMPETITIONS 1 GREAT SHOW Ready to raise your game? Compete against some of the country’s most creative talents at the industry’s leading beauty show.
LASHES
MAKE-UP
SPONSORED BY
NAILS
#PBNorth
Enter today at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/competitions 7703 PBNORTH19 Championships A4 JUNE19.indd 2
@pro_beauty ProfessionalBeautyUK pro_beauty01
14/05/2019 16:13
Hot Topic
103
ARE
mobile beauty
BUSINESSES
killing high-street salons?
As more beauty pros go mobile, traditional salons and spas are having to compete like never before to retain custom. Guinot salon franchisee Justyna Rostek explores the rise of mobile beauty and its impact on high-street salons
C
onvenience has become the most important factor for clients when choosing a product or service, and this is true in all sectors, with supermarkets and online retailers like Amazon now delivering goods on the same day, and sometimes within two hours of ordering. This fast-paced way of living has changed people’s shopping habits, with high-street stores now struggling to get the footfall they once had. The beauty industry is feeling the strain too, leading me to wonder, will mobile beauty be the end of the high-street salon? From a client point of view, I understand the appeal of a mobile therapist. Having a treatment at home while your toddler in napping is perfect for the time-poor who want a pamper but lack the hours in the day. Mobile beauty also beats high-street salons on affordability as they have reduced costs, so can charge less for services. A high-street salon can’t compete with those lprices and, frankly, they shouldn’t try. It’s a losing game.
paid for, as well as holidays, national insurance and other benefits, like a pension. I’m not saying mobile beauty businesses are a bad thing. I strongly believe that there are a lot of passionate, good mobile therapists out there. However, because some of these people have never worked in a salon with more experienced therapists, they can sometimes face the danger of not continually improving. The salon and spa environment teaches you to think on your feet, work as part of team and adjust to last-minute changes. You pick up tips and tricks of the trade from more senior staff, which means there’s no risk of becoming complacent. The good news is traditional salons and spas will still have the upper hand when it comes to more specialised treatments that require a large investment – these bulky machines tend not to fit well with mobile businesses. I’m already seeing this in my salon, where 70% of bookings are for result-driven facials. To compete with mobile therapists, salon owners need to work harder on the client journey and the wow factor. It’s important to sell not just a service but an experience. Figure out what your USP is and remember, the devil is in the detail. It’s about being a fine dining experience in a world of takeaways. PB
To compete with mobile therapists, salon owners need to work harder on the client journey and the wow factor
Different worlds Plus, because more beauty pros are choosing to work for themselves, many salon owners are also struggling with recruitment. However, these mobile and home-based therapists don’t really have an understanding of the commercial nature and costs involved in running a high-street salon – like rent, business rates and premises insurance. As a result, if they do interview for a more traditional role at a salon, it can be tricky. They often request overinflated salaries, based on their business’s “earnings”, and often forget the non-productive hours in the salon they will be
Justyna Rostek is director of Guinot salon in Earlsfield. She will be hosting a session on “How to boost retail sales and increase salon profits” at Professional Beauty North on October 14. Book your ticket: professionalbeauty.co.uk/livestages
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Skincare
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professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Skincare
105
TOO MUCH
of a good
thing?
As consumers mix and match active ingredients in self-prescribed regimes thanks to the rise of affordable skincare, product overload is now a real issue. Amanda Pauley explores the trend and how to help clients break this vicious cycle
W
e’re living in an era where the quest for perfect skin is everything and the advice on how to achieve it is everywhere. From influencers boasting about their overflowing beauty cabinets to celebs swearing by the 10-step Korean skincare trend, layering multiple “miracle” products in a bid for glowing skin has become the new norm. As the high street availability of powerful actives has grown, thanks to affordable beauty companies such as Deciem, Beauty Pie and The Inky List, which have tried to democratise the skincare market, so too has consumer curiosity to try hyped-up ingredients. But these increasingly complex routines have started to have an adverse effect on clients’ skin. Redness, itchiness, sensitivity, breakouts and peeling are all common signs of a product overload but for many clients this could be a huge revelation, which is why the role of the skincare professional has never been more important. “This is one of the main issues I’m now seeing in the treatment room,” says Rowan Hall-Farrise, international head trainer and facialist at QMS Medicosmetics. “Clients are accumulating bigger at-home skincare collections, and overstimulation by using active
ingredients incorrectly, and far too frequently, is now all too common.” One of the key drivers behind the issue is undoubtedly an increase in misinformation, especially on social media. With beauty influencers being paid by companies to promote their latest wonder product, it’s now easy for customers to pick something up with an exclusive discount code without it necessarily being right for their skin. “There’s too much choice and conflicting messaging and it can leave people feeling overwhelmed,” explains Tracy Tamaris, director of the International Institute for Anti-Ageing (IIAA), which distributes vitamin A skincare brand Environ. “Beauty therapists need to educate customers to follow the science, not the hype.”
Market disruptors Now, people are switching up their routines a lot and the growth of the online market place has made it easier to order these products, with customers able to get their hands on all sorts of derivatives of vitamins A and C, as well as other actives, while bypassing the professional consultation completely. >
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Skincare
106 Teamed with the rise in over-the-counter brands promising to disrupt the sector by offering effective skincare at accessible prices, it seems that the beauty landscape has changed. These brands have boomed because they market themselves on being honest about what’s in the products, leading with prominent ingredient information on labels so customers can almost become mini scientists and create their own skincare regimes. “Overall, customers are becoming aware of ingredients that really work, which is a good thing for the industry, especially in terms of being able to empower people to make a difference, but this extra access definitely has its risks,” explains Dan Isaacs, director of research at cosmeceutical brand Medik8. “I wouldn’t say there’s anything wrong with the quality of these products, it’s more the perception that a £10 retinol serum is just as good as a more expensive version. It’s detracting from the extra steps that research-led brands take to keep these formulas stable with advanced encapsulation and time-release systems. These products are more expensive because companies have to charge for the research and development.” Advanced facialist Martine Jarman, owner of Skin Genius Clinic in Cheshire, also thinks there needs to be
more distinction between different forms of actives because customers won’t always understand the concentration information written on products. “Vitamins A and C come in different derivatives of the pure form but clients won’t necessarily know that or understand that they work differently and can become unstable,” she says. For example, anti-ageing wonder ingredient vitamin A has many forms – the ones most commonly used in skincare are retinol (the alcohol form), retinoic acid (active form), retinaldehyde (aldehyde form), and retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate (ester forms) – but clients may not be aware that some are more effective while others have fewer side effects.
Beauty therapists need to educate customers to follow the science, not the hype
Too much jargon
Jarman says the labelling of these over-the-counter brands is another cause for the confusion, with some stating a higher concentration for certain actives than the professional industry norm. She gives an example of one affordable brand that has a 5% retinol product, whereas most cosmeceutical ones will start customers on a 0.25% and work them up to the “high” dosage of 1%. “Clients see an ‘affordable’ 5% retinol in a high-street shop but don’t understand that the product isn’t pure retinol. This cheaper version is using an ester and it takes more steps for the ester forms of retinol to be converted to the active retinoid acid,” says Jarman. “The more conversions, the weaker the product becomes, which means less irritation, so the strength can then be increased to a much higher percentage without causing retinization.” She adds: “Since a form of retinol is being used, the company can state 5% retinol on the label, which makes the consumer think they have a better quality product than the 1% cosmeceutical one. It’s very confusing because people believe they’re getting the most active form in a higher concentration but this just isn’t true.” Getting the skincare cocktail mixology just right is a tough feat, which is why you should be presenting your consultations to clients as your ultimate super power. When you have a new customer who is suffering with an irritation caused by product overload, start by explaining to them what is going on with their skin and why. “When people use incorrect products and cause problems with their skin they never seem to correlate the two. Instead, they’ll go and buy another new product to sort the problem rather than drop the culprit, creating a vicious cycle,” explains facialist Kate Kerr, who has a clinic in London. >
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Other actives at a high percentage in serums and moisturisers can also have an adverse effect on the skin, causing rashes and breakouts. “Glycolic acid (the a-hydroxy acid known for its exfoliation properties) used at too high a percentage and too frequently can cause an impaired barrier and peeling,” says Hall-Farrise. Janine de Costa, education training executive at Dermalogica, advises using a broad-spectrum SPF 15 (minimum) alongside hydroxy acids as they tend to cause sun sensitivity, and when using highly active formulas, “give the skin a good eight to 12 hours between application to monitor the response,” she says.
Taking back control
Kerr advises enquiring into the customer’s current regime and paring it back to help calm the inflammation, slowly introducing active products one at a time for a steady approach. The next step is to explain why clients should be conscious of layering active ingredients without a professional’s help.
Another problem with clients self-prescribing is that they may mix up different branded products, thinking, for example, that all vitamin C serums are the same. It’s one of the biggest myths you’ll have to bust. “Unstable vitamin C in a high dosage may cause skin inflammation and overaction, whereas a stable formulation at a low dosage will give a lovely glow to the skin,” adds Hall-Farrise. Like retinol, vitamin C has several derivatives that all work in different ways, the main ones being l-ascorbic acid (the purest form of vitamin C), ethylated l-ascorbic acid (highly stable vitamin C) and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (lipid-soluble vitamin C). “Pure vitamin C is fantastic but it’s got limitations with stability,” says Isaacs. “Ethylated l-ascorbic acid is really similar to pure vitamin C but it has a slight change to the molecule which allows it to retain all the power of l-ascorbic while remaining completely stable, so you can put it in a product at a higher concentration. Even with vitamin C serums you need a starter and a more advanced version.” When a skin irritation occurs, it can be all too easy for clients to lose faith in the actives they’re using but you can turn the situation around, returning the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin) back to perfect health. “It’s down to you as the therapist to educate the client about what’s going on in the market and to advise them on ingredient stability,” says Jarman. “Make this information part of the treatment process – for example, a mini skin workshop at the end of their appointment – where you provide details on the active, how it works, the clinical data and why you stock the brands you do. Then, back this up with ingredient tutorials on your social media pages to help educate further.” PB
Unstable vitamin C in a high dosage may cause skin inflammation and overaction
The perfect blend “Vitamin C and retinol shouldn’t be used together because they can render each other useless. The best thing to do is split them to use at different times – vitamin C in the morning with an SPF on top and retinol in the evening,” says Kerr. Plus, when using retinol, clients tend to think they need to go to the highest strength for effective skincare but the truth is it’s about phasing in results, using lower dosages. “It should be a cautious and educated approach to skincare rather than this idea of more is better. The best results come to those who take it slowly,” explains Isaacs. “At Medik8, we recommend most people start with retinol at a 0.3% concentration then slowly build it up to 1%, depending on whether their skin is tolerating it well.”
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Spa Launches
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Autumn’s openings draw on the best of British wellness traditions and reconnect guests with the great outdoors THE HARROGATE SPA AT DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HARROGATE MAJESTIC HOTEL & SPA Opening: November Spa Size: 12,838sq ft Facilities: Indoor pool, spa pool, Himalayan salt sauna, steam room, rasul, experience shower, ice fountain, relaxation room, spa garden, gym and studio Treatment rooms: Four single, two double USP: The Harrogate Spa will open along with the Majestic Hotel following a £15 million renovation. Designed to draw on Harrogate’s tradition of drinking or bathing in the area’s restorative mineral waters, the spa will offer a range of therapeutic aquatic and thermal experiences. Product houses include Espa, Thalgo, Carita and Jessica, with “indulgent spa rituals” and holistic massages featuring on the treatment menu. Local residents will be able to join as members for fitness and spa usage.
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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WOODLAND SPA, THE EASTBURY HOTEL, SHERBORNE
THE SPA AT THE NEWT, SOMERSET Opening: August 29 Spa size: 7,782sq ft Facilities: Indoor swimming pool, indoor/outdoor hydropool, wild pool, mud rasual chamber, hammam, sauna and steam rooms, halotherapy room, manicure and pedicure area, sun terrace Treatment rooms: Three single, three double USP: The Newt’s spa is situated in Hadspen House’s former farm buildings. Remodelled using local materials including Hadspen stone and blue lias, it has white marble, natural oak and glass features throughout. The spa is surrounded by a medieval medicinal herb garden for guests to relax in, while the English garden theme is reflected in the spa’s choice to custom make its products with a local company that uses botanically sourced ingredients and scents from the UK. Treatments include a full-body exfoliation and wrap using one of three blends, an apothecaryblend facial and a hammam soap treatment.
Opening: September 1 Size: 645sq ft Facilities: Hydrotherapy pool, sauna, steam room, exercise area, private relaxation space, outdoor hot tub Treatment rooms: Two USP: Opening one month after The Eastbury added five Victorian-inspired Potting Shed Garden Suites to the property, the Woodland Spa has been designed to complement the boutique hotel’s walled garden. The spa building is set into the wooden area of the gardens, and built from local stone with a sedum and moss roof and circular doorway. The spa has partnered with marine skincare brand Thalgo on its treatment menu. Thalgo treatments include antiageing facials, body wraps, massages, men’s treatments and a range of spa rituals inspired by the sea.
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SANDERSONS WELLNESS SPA, SANDERSONS BOUTIQUE DEPARTMENT STORE, FOX VALLEY, SHEFFIELD Opening: September 18 Size: 370sq ft Treatment rooms: Two, one with a shower USP: Situated on the ground floor of Sandersons Boutique Department Store, the new treatment space will offer treatments and retail products from Voya, Clarins, Caudalie and SKN-RG. While there are no heat or water facilities, services will include facials, massages, body wraps and scrubs, alongside health screening, reiki and medical herbalism. Therapists have been specially trained in pregnancy and cancer treatments. The spa’s retail area will stock a wide range of organic skincare and beauty from UK brands not currently available in other department stores in the county. PB
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Launch Analysis
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Making waves Its dramatic clifftop location has inspired every aspect of the new spa at Mullion Cove. FIONA VLEMMIKS speaks to spa manager Hannah Martin about drawing on, and respecting, the coastal setting
A
rriving for her interview on a blustery Cornish day, spa manager Hannah Martin was literally blown away by her first glimpse of the wild beauty surrounding Mullion Cove Hotel and Spa. Located on the west coast of Cornwall’s stunning Lizard Penninsula, Mullion Cove is perched high above its eponymous harbour, offering spectacular vistas of white sand and calm turquoise waters which can give way to equally dramatic dark, stormy seas. “I could see the potential immediately,” says Martin. “My first thought was that this would be the most incredible project to get involved with.” The spa, which had its soft opening in July and will launch officially in September, is the latest addition to the Mullion Cove Hotel, which has been owned by the Grose family since 2009. At the helm of the popular Thurlestone Hotel in Devon for four generations, the family has been investing heavily in Mullion Cove since its purchase, already building up a significant client base. The hotel houses 30 rooms, as well as luxurious apartment accommodation where guests can access all the facilities of the hotel, including the spa.
Younger market “The hotel already had an award-winning restaurant and is very well established with a loyal customer base. Now we’re expanding into wellness,” says Martin. “Historically, the hotel’s clients are from the older demographic so we’re looking to reach out to local people and the younger market, especially with the spa. “We’ve already seen a lot of interest on the south coast from people who are interested in spa days with us.” The spa offers a full range of facilities including three treatment rooms, indoor hydrotherapy infinity pool, sea-view steam rooms, saunas, salt laconicum, experience showers and gym. Outside, decking sweeps around the periphery of the building, leading to the hotel’s refurbished outdoor heated swimming pool and more relaxation spaces,
including a hot tub and outdoor seating area – all facing the Atlantic and bordered by the South West Coast Path. Martin, a qualified yoga teacher and holistic therapist with vast experience in spa and retreat management, both in Cornwall and abroad, says that her appointment heralded a commitment to using sustainable, ecoconscious products and practices throughout the spa. “We have a seeded rooftop and a wall of living herbs that can be hand picked for guests’ herbal teas, and I’m very keen to use minimal plastic, if any,” she says. “We use wooden bowls for hand and foot rituals and there are no single-use plastic cups or crockery.” Even the cleaning products used in the spa are eco-friendly and designed to have a low impact on the environment. Coming from the local area, the whole spa team is very conscious of the environment and the impact of unsustainable practices on the ocean. “We all ocean swim and are involved in local beach cleanups. We want to protect the coastline that we’re on, as well as the wider world,” says Martin.
Shop local Fittingly, Martin chose Made for Life Organics and Irish seaweed brand Voya as the two main product houses for the spa, both eco-friendly, Soil Association-certified brands. “Made For Life Organics is made in Truro so products don’t have to travel far to get to us,” says Martin. “Every single product is handmade in the county using herbs, flowers and oils. The company uses only recyclable glass bottles, even for its professional sizes, and they don’t add any synthetic chemicals, including parabens. “Because of Mullion Cove’s location, right on the sea, I first thought of Voya at my interview. The seaweed is hand foraged from the Atlantic Ocean, which we share, and it seemed apt to bring elements of an ingredient found on our coastline into the spa.”
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The Cornish Coastline and its tin-mining history also inspired the spa’s design. “We’ve used lots of bronze, All images (excluding lead image): copper, brass, granite, slate and local serpentine stone in renders of the new spa the design. There’s also a gorgeous wave sculpture in the entrance which was created by a local artist,” says Martin. Inside the spa, the sounds of waves crashing against a two-course lunch at the hotel’s two-AA-rosette the shore in Mullion harbour, recorded by a local sound Atlantic Restaurant. engineer, will be played to lull guests into relaxation. Drawing on her experience managing yoga Outside, Martin says they will also install two copper baths in retreats abroad, Martin hopes to offer longer a private area later this year, retreats in the near future. so guests can enjoy the healing “Once the spa breaks and properties of seaweed baths outside in days are fully established, we FAST FACTS the elements. can expand even further into Opening: September 2019 health and wellbeing and host Size: 3,500sq ft Place of retreat retreats,” she says. Brands: Voya, Made for Life The spa’s signature treatment, Mullion “The outdoor decking, with Organics, Jessica Ocean Essence, combines Japanese breathtaking views, could be Treatment Rooms: Three Shiatsu with Western body massage used for yoga, and there’s a gym (two single, one double) techniques. Using Made for Life Organics and studio in the hotel that we Staff: Five massage oil, warmed Jade Wave stones could use for indoor practice. So target areas of tightness, while serpentine hot stones from the Lizard Peninsula are placed along key points of the body to support stress relief. The treatment finishes with a Japanese scalp massage and healing reiki session to rebalance body and mind. Martin says the spa’s price point is mid-range for the area, with the Catch Your Breath four-hour spa morning or afternoon, which includes one 30-minute treatment and use of all the facilities, costing £75 per person. Other packages include the Romantic Day Escape for couples, priced at £199 for a 60-minute treatment in the Couples Suite, a glass of bubbly, access to all facilities and
there’s definitely the opportunity, space and capacity to be able to offer yoga and other retreats.” During the first year, Martin says she will prioritise getting to know the spa’s customer base. “I believe that most of our business will be hotel based but I am also expecting local people to travel from slightly beyond Truro for our spa days,” she says. “There are lots of other holiday lets nearby so I think we’ll pick up clients from those. Other than that we’ll be finding our feet and ensuring things run smoothly. It’s never going to be a superpacked spa; the aim is to keep it exclusive.” PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Beyond skin deep Proto-col Clinical - a new professional-only range of ingestible wellness to promote skin vitality and strong nails.
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Brand View
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It’s the start of a new era for Bio Sculpture GB. Managing director Richard Lipsitz tells GEORGIA SEAGO all about the company’s rebrand and what the future holds for Re:New Beauty Why did you decide to rebrand from Bio Sculpture GB to Re:New Beauty? “Some opportunities started to come our way to expand our portfolio beyond Bio Sculpture. Essence Glitters was the first; the brand’s owner wanted to sell to our clients and it got confusing to sell another product when our company name was Bio Sculpture GB. “With Essence, we realised there was an appetite for people to buy other product from us, but we don’t want to become a wholesaler, so we’re doing it differently and only selling to people who train with us, which is what we’ve always done with Bio Sculpture. We’re very strict on that and it’s what makes us different, so it got us thinking that maybe there are other brands that could take a similar approach – premium, training-led brands.”
Why have you also moved premises? “The lease was up on the old place and it was time for an upgrade. This new HQ is just 15 minutes away so we’re still in Hemel Hempstead but it’s a nicer space. We want to have aspirational offices to attract great talent to come and work for us. “And we’re selling premium products so we don’t want to have tired looking offices. We own this building so we don’t need to worry, we can invest in it freely. We have a big, open-plan office space, multipurpose training rooms, and a modern kitchen and break out area for staff. The warehouse is now in the same building too.”
Can you tell us about the new make-up brand you’ve taken on? “We discovered Mud make-up at a trade show.
They’ve been running training in New York for 30 years, so very similar to Bio Sculpture in terms of heritage. It was founded by make-up artists for make-up artists. They’ve got several studios in the US. Over there, training is a lot more formal for make-up and beauty – you have to be licensed. They then brought the concept over to Europe under the Mud Studio brand – in Rome, Milan, Vienna and Berlin – but rather than having seven or eight classrooms, which is what they do in the US, they set it up like a high-street store with a classroom in the back. “They never came to the UK so we’re trying a bit of a hybrid of the two models here, as in having the single classroom as part of our wider offering. The training is expensive because in America people have the mind-set of paying for further education, so we’ve got to gauge the market. We’re aware that make-up is a whole different ballgame and is very new to us. I’d say we aren’t really aiming to sell lots of make-up, we’re looking to sell lots of make-up training.”
What about your new lash extension brand, Moka & Sarah? “Moka & Sarah also takes training very seriously. The owners actually came to us through Instagram and we approached them because we know that the biggest overlap with our Bio Sculpture clients is lashes. Almost half our clients do lashes and there are lots of great lash brands out there, but Moka & Sarah offered something a bit more niche and bespoke. “Moka Kanai brought the technique over from Japan. It was a start-up and was doing great but needed our help from the infrastructure side. It’s a very exciting time for us.” PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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7780 PBINSURANCE A4 MASTER MAY19 .indd 1
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14/05/2019 09:38
Salon Design
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Despite its bustling supermarket location, clever design has helped So Me Beauty Bar in Redhill create an oasis of calm. Fiona Vlemmiks finds out how it was done
ituated inside a newly refurbished and expanded Sainsbury’s store in the busy town of Redhill in Surrey, So Me offers a range of results-driven beauty services to time-poor shoppers. The salon, which opened in March 2019, is the latest in a chain of six “urban spas” in prime locations in and around London, such as Clapham, Colliers Wood, Bloomsbury and Boxpark in Croydon. Though the new Redhill venture differs in concept to the rest of the cluster, with a beauty bar concept and pareddown treatment menu, including threading, express lashes, nail and waxing services, and a foot spa area, it aims to provide the same tranquil environment and service level experienced in all So Me branches. In the early stages of the project Vijay Treohan, founder of So Me, realised that, given its supermarket home, the salon’s design would be critical to its success in attracting potential clients. Treohan approached spa and salon furniture brand REM to help him achieve his goal of creating a tranquil atmosphere amidst the buzz. “When we were given an opportunity to create a small beauty services salon within Sainsbury’s at Redhill, we knew that we wanted to create an ‘oasis of calm’, which is not easy to do in a busy supermarket,” says Treohan.
“Our design remit was to keep the look and feel aligned with the rest of the brand within the smaller space available. We wanted to create different areas for the each of the services offered and a reception area that would feel welcoming to clients.”
Colour coordination Treohan worked directly with REM on the project, having first met the team at Professional Beauty London in 2012. “We’ve turned to them for all of our salon furniture needs ever since,” says Treohan. Complementing the teal colour palette used in the So Me chain, Michigan Elm laminate was selected alongside plush Galaxy fabric from REM’s Premier range, in the rich Truffle shade. The earthy tones in the darker laminate and fabric were chosen to evoke a sense of the natural world as well as for their practicality in terms of keeping the interiors clean and fresh. “We chose this combination because it worked well together, and we felt that it would be easy to maintain as well as endure the test of time,” explains Treohan. Bespoke So Me Pedibooths were created for the salon and REM’s Concorde nail bars, Lunar make-up units and a Lunar reception area were installed, providing workspaces with a high-end finish. REM’s Magnum chairs and Dune washunits completed the look. PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Operational Advice
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Leaving TIME?
If an employee resigns impetuously after a disagreement or incident, should you let them change their mind? David Wright explains the legal procedures you need to follow
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ost salon owners will experience a situation where they, or a manager, fall out with a member of staff, which leads to the employee resigning on the spot. They might walk out, and may not put their resignation in writing. So, what happens if they turn up for work the next day saying they’ve changed their mind or acting like nothing happened? Generally, an employee who resigns cannot withdraw their resignation just because it was given in the heat of the moment. The decision as to whether to accept the change of mind is almost entirely the employer’s, but you should always look at the circumstances that led to the resignation, and the words that were used, before making a final decision. If the employee didn’t give a written resignation, that’s a big issue if your contract says that notice has to be given in writing. If you don’t want the employee to leave, you might be happy to forget the incident. However, if the employee isn’t a model worker, or you simply can’t ignore the argument and what was said, then you face a more complicated situation. It leaves the door open for the employee to argue that they had not meant to resign, that you overreacted, and to make a claim at employment tribunal.
Previous cases The question of whether an employee did or did not resign has been considered in a number of cases. Previous decisions from employment tribunals have indicated that sometimes there are special circumstances and the employee hasn’t resigned.
The general advice is for the employer to consider: • The context in which the resignation was given – cases where a tribunal decided the resignation didn’t stand included when the employee had been pressured or provoked by a manager. • The words used - “stuff your job, I quit” is very different from “I have to decide if I want to work here anymore”. If there are special circumstances, the employer should wait a few days before acting on the resignation, giving the employee a window of opportunity to change their mind. In the past, I have suggested writing to the employee to say you will accept their resignation and notice period but are allowing them time to reconsider. Allow a few days, but indicate that if you haven’t received any contact by a set date, you will process their resignation. That will go a long way to protecting you from any tribunal claims. What is a reasonable period of time will depend, to a degree, on the details of the case, but a day or two is usually sufficient. You have then been seen to have allowed a cooling-off period and the employee cannot argue their resignation was in the heat of the moment. The employee may well turn up for work the next day, tail between their legs, and it’s agreed they haven’t resigned. But if an employee walked off the job and left clients high and dry or shouted in front of them, you will reasonably be able to discipline them and in some cases dismiss them. Of course, you need to follow your disciplinary procedure to the letter. PB
David Wright is a consultant in all aspects of employment practice and law. He is the main employment law consultant for Habia and provides a personalised support service for UK salons. Tel: 01302 563691 davidwrightpersonnel.co.uk
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AWARDS LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE 28 JUNE 2020
Compete and raise your industry profile ENTRIES OPEN THIS AUTUMN Nail Salon of the Year Therapist of the Year Employer of the Year Spa/Salon Team of the Year Spa/Salon Leader of the Year Large Spa of the Year* Boutique Spa of the Year*
Large Salon of the Year* Boutique Salon of the Year* Midlands & North West Salon of the Year Midlands & North West Spa of the Year North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Salon of the Year
North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Spa of the Year South West & Wales Salon of the Year South West & Wales Spa of the Year South East Salon of the Year South East Spa of the Year
*These four categories cannot be entered directly. Winners will be the highest scoring spas and salons from all of the regional categories
The winners will be announced at a black-tie ceremony on 28 June 2020, at a brand new location, London Hilton Park Lane
PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.CO.UK/PBAWARDS
7869 PBAWARDS 20 Master Advert A4.indd 1
10/07/2019 16:24
Novalash London Volume London Volume is Novalash’s most extreme lash look to date. The treatment, which takes around two hours to perform, allows lash techs to create large, bold fans by using thinner, lighter lashes. The look is achieved by using the brand’s Starlite forceps – a precision tool made with a custom inner textured tip for enhanced grip on the fine lashes involved. Techs apply London Volume .03mm lashes in a variety of lengths and curl styles using Royal Platinum Bond, an adhesive available only to London Volume-trained stylists, which is NovaLash’s thinnest and fastest drying. Training launches in September and is open only to lash artists who are already trained in NovaLash
Tailored
RESULTS
American volume or equivalent. Training is done via an online module and the price includes a London Volume product kit. Costs vary depending on whether the tech is already Novalash certified. Training booked at PB North has a special price of £695 (saving £120). Novalash recommends that techs charge 20% more than they would for American Volume. Call the brand on 01273 041966
Treatment News
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Personalised face and body treatments, and some ultravoluminous lash extensions come under the spotlight this month
This month we tried… Lynton Onda The lowdown: Onda is a body-shaping machine manufactured by Italian laser company Deka and distributed in the UK by Lynton. It uses Coolwaves microwaves at 2.45 GHz – a frequency Deka says is effectively absorbed by fat molecules deep in the subcutaneous cells, which also prevents heating in the dermis and epidermis for a more comfortable treatment. The machine’s handpieces have a builtin contact skin-cooling system to counterbalance the heat from the microwaves. Onda can be used for localised fat, cellulite and skin tightening. The experience: I had my treatment at Harley Street Clinic with therapist Sajila Dhaubhadel, who treated my inner and outer thighs for localised fat. After she had measured the circumference of each thigh and taken pictures, I lay on the couch and Dhaubhadel started with my right inner thigh, wiping the skin with liquid paraffin to cleanse the area. She spent around 10 minutes on each area, applying firm pressure and moving the handpiece around in a pattern.
At first, I could just feel gentle warmth, but after a few minutes this built up into a fairly intense heat and I asked Dhaubhadel to pause, at which point she switched to a cooling setting which quickly look the heat away. Before we got started, she explained that treatment duration depends on each client’s comfort levels and how often the therapist needs to pause to cool the skin. Dhaubhadel spent the same amount of time on my left inner and left and right outer thighs, and my skin grew more tolerant to the heat as we continued. The whole process including consultation took just under an hour. The verdict: Immediately after the treatment, any residual heat dissipated and I felt completely comfortable. Dhaubhadel told me results would be visible after eight days, and the silhouette of my outer thighs did look smoother and more toned at this point. If I were to have the recommended course of four treatments, I’m confident I’d see great results. Business benefits: Onda would be ideal for clients who have concerns about problem areas but don’t want to go down the surgical route, or who just want to tackle stubborn cellulite. Although the procedure might be uncomfortable for clients with a sensitivity to heat, the cooling function on the handpiece works so quickly that any discomfort is soon forgotten. It also offers a big profit margin, with the only consumable a sanitising liquid to wipe the area with beforehand. Tried by Georgia Seago Lynton Lasers recommends charging £250– £350 per area, per session. Call the brand on 01477 536977 professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Treatment News
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Hive Introduction to Waxing
It covers a combination of both theory and practical learning in areas including bikini, leg and arm waxing procedures and techniques; health and safety; client care; sterilisation, disinfection and sanitation; and contraindications. The course comprises a one-day practical assessment followed by assessed case studies. Once completed, students will achieve an ABT (Associated Beauty Therapists) accredited certificate, enabling them to gain insurance and perform treatments. Hive charges £120 per student for the course. Call the company on 0845 450 4802
Waxing product manufacturer Hive has partnered with The Beauty Team, the training school run by well-known nail tech and educator Gemma Lambert, to launch its Introduction to Waxing course. This entry-level course is aimed at people looking to move into the world of waxing, which might include those changing career, or qualified therapists looking to expand their repertoire or refresh their knowledge.
This month we tried… QMS Medicosmetics Bespoke Facial The lowdown: With personalisation still on trend in the beauty world, German brand QMS has developed an 80-minute facial that can be tailored to any skin type, involving everything from extractions and oxygen to algae masks to deliver immediate results. The experience: My treatment took place at premium store Liberty London, with QMS head facialist Rowan Hall-Farrise. Noting that I was suffering with breakouts and pigmentation on my chin and some dryness on my forehead, Hall-Farrise told me she would be rebalancing my skin and stimulating the regeneration of cells for a clearer complexion. Her first step was extractions to remove excess sebum, followed by application of oxygen to stimulate the metabolism of the skin. Next came the SKL Alpha Mask, which draws nutrients to the surface of the skin, helping to increase antiinflammatory effects after extractions. The mask, which gradually warms up but not to an uncomfortable heat, is left on for 20 minutes, for five of which a piece of foil is placed on top to increase stimulation. Once it was removed, HallFarrise handed me a mirror to show me how red my skin was (which only lasted for 10 minutes) – a sign that the blood flow had been greatly increased. Then came the cooling part of the treatment – the Algae Mask. This was placed over my entire face, including eyes and mouth, helping to soothe inflammation and hydrate, and it felt incredible. The treatment finished with application of the Day Collagen Sensitive Serum, Lip Liner Corrector Serum and Advanced Cellular Marine Day.
The verdict: My skin immediately looked brighter post-treatment and three weeks on my breakouts are still fully under control. Hall-Farrise knew exactly what my skin needed and delivered on her promise. Business benefits: This treatment is ideal for clients who have overdone it with their skincare regime and need to get their complexion back to a happy base. From there, you can continue to tailor the protocol every time to match their skin needs, providing a service that feels truly VIP. QMS Medicosmetics recommends charging £160 for the 80-minute treatment. Call the brand on 020 3971 2590
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Map Your Future - Pro Beauty - PRINT.pdf 1 12/08/2019 12:18:33
C
M
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CM
MY
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CMY
K
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Experienced an improvement in the appearance of uneven skin tone
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Experienced a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
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“I have tried many eye creams – some very expensive. I have to say, this is the best eye cream I have used! Dark circles have gone (they were really bad before), puffiness has gone and my wrinkles are less obvious. I can honestly say; my eyes look younger and I am so pleased with the results!”
Experienced firmer looking skin *Results from a clinical study of 20 women
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Contact us: info@sbcproskincare.co.uk sbcproskincare.co.uk
Cruelty Free
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New Products
125 INK London Acrygel Sync is a polymer-based UV/LED nail enhancement system that has taken INK London two years to perfect, blending the best properties of gel and acrylic to give long-lasting results. The Acrygel comes in Signature, Milky Pink, White and Clear, is easy to file and works at a low heat. The nail brand has also launched two lamps – Kool48, a 48W LED lamp suitable for mobile techs, and Platinum X, a 36W dual UV/LED lamp for salons. Trade: from £29.17 for Acrygel Sync Kit, £58.33 for Kool48, £140.83 for PlatinumX 01706 260069 inknails.com
Tips
AND
toes
It’s time for nail techs to restock their kits, with new pedi products; nail art accessories, a polymer enhancement system and more
Dermalogica
CND It’s the nail brand’s ruby anniversary which means lots of limitededition products for techs to get their hands on. There’s a red rhinestone 40th Anniversary Apron, Ruby Stamping Plate in collaboration with :Yours, and a 40th Anniversary Pro Kit, which includes red Wildfire Shellac, Base Coat, Duraforce Top Coat, 40 Swarovski Ruby Crystals and a nail art booklet. Due to popular demand, the CND Spa mini range is back with 59ml lotions and scrubs in Gardenia Woods, Bright Citron and Sugar Vanilla. Trade: £15.95 for the apron, £6.45 for the stamping plate, £27.90 for the 40th Anniversary Pro kit; from £3.45 for the CND Spa minis 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
With epigenetics research suggesting that up to 50% of the visible signs of ageing come from clients’ exposome (environmental exposures such as UV, pollution, sleep and diet), Dermalogica has launched PhytoNature Firming Serum. It reinforces the skin’s defences by combining active botanicals Amazonian camu camu, caffeic acid from Madagascar green coffee bean and Moroccan rockrose extract with biomimetic technology, which is powered by sapphirebound biomimetic peptides to reduce exposome-driven ageing. Trade: £62.90 for 40ml 0800 917 7147 dermalogica.co.uk
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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New Products
126 Aromatherapy Associates Aromatherapy Associates accounts will be excited to hear that the brand has launched its first new blend in seven years. Forest Therapy is inspired by the scents of forests, mixing pink pepper, juniper berry and Mediterranean cypress for an uplifting effect. The Forest Therapy Collection includes a Bath & Shower Oil, Body Oil and Wellness Mist. Clients are advised to incorporate the products into their daily routine to improve mental and physical wellbeing. Trade: from £32 020 8569 7030 aromatherapyassociates.com
Mii Cosmetics
Simply CBD Bronzer
The new ColourPlay Palettes each contain eight highly pigmented eye shadows in two colour ways. Spicy Chic has taupe and tan tones such as Antique Copper, Cinnamon and Spiced Caramel; while Berry Vogue brings together pinky and plum shades including Grape Glitz and Berry Noir. Also new are three shades of Click & Colour Lip Crayon: Pinot Blush, Cassis and Cognac; plus Power Matte Lip Crème in nude shades Nobel and Timeless. Trade: £13.98 for the palettes, £8.50 for lip crayons, £8 for lip crèmes 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) miicosmetics.com
Cannibidiol is infused into this range of tanning products. The formulas contain third-party, laboratorytested CBD to ensure no residual traces of THC or other contaminants. CBD has moisturising and antiinflammatory properties and helps regulate sebum, according to the brand. Other ingredients include green tea extract, tocopherol, glycerine and aloe vera. There’s a Professional Spray Tan Solution with 10%, 12% or 14% DHA or Rapid Tan; and Pump Spray Self Tan, Mousse Self Tan and Gradual Tan Moisturiser for retail. Trade: from £59.99 for the professional solutions 1l, from £9.59 for the retail products
Lash Perfect Lash Pops is a capsule collection of strip lashes available in four flower-themed styles – Rose Red, Pink Peony, Scarlett Poppy and White Rose. The lashes range from light and fluffy to dramatic and voluminous, and have a thin, flexible band so they mould to all eye shapes. The strip lashes can be applied with Lash Perfect’s Strip Lash Glue. Trade: £2.30 per Lash Pop 020 8500 9028 (The Eyelash Design Company) lashperfect.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Ditch paper forms. Switch to Consult.
Consult is a free app for customisable client forms. Perfect for client intake, consultations, patch-testing & more. With Consult your client information is kept private and secure, and with no more data entry, you’ll save time and eliminate manual errors. Choose from the industry standard templates or design your own forms to help deliver an exceptional client experience every time.
To learn more visit gettimely.com/consult or call +4420 3695 6388
CUSTOMISABLE FORMS
New Products
128 Light Elegance Nail technician and Light Elegance brand ambassador Celina Ryden has partnered with the brand on the Celina Ryden Signature Brush Set. It contains six nail art brushes for specific gel design work in a brush holder. The brushes are: Shorty, for tiny detailing; Swirly, for making swirls and long strokes; Lil’ Fluff, for adding highlights to designs with precision; Block, for filling in larger patches; Stripy, for creating long strokes; and Fluff Daddy, for adding pigment powders or brushing excess glitter off the nail. Trade: £99.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com
Medik8 The cosmeceutical brand has launched four skincare kits of products that deliver the brand’s CSA philosophy – vitamin C, sunscreen and vitamin A. There’s the CSA Philosophy Kit containing C-Tetra, Advanced Day Total Protect SPF30, Retinol 3TR Intense and Surface Radiance Cleanse; plus the CSA Philosophy Kit Eye Edition with Eyes & Lips Micellar Cleanse, C-Tetra Eye, Advanced Day Eye Protect and Retinol Eye TR. There are also two step-up kits and four Discovery Kits of trial-size products. RRP: from £59 for CSA Kits, from £25 for Discovery Kits 0333 014 2434 (Skinbrands) skinbrands.co.uk
Vitage
Murad
Revive & Repair Hand Cream is the latest launch from Vitage. The non-greasy hand cream uses shea butter, mango butter, baobab oil, liquorice, bisabolol, apricot oil and fractionated coconut oil to intensely hydrate and nourish the hands. The brand says the cream also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and age spots. Trade: £12 for 100ml 0333 014 2434 (Skinbrands) skinbrands.co.uk
InvisiScar Resurfacing Treatment is formulated to help improve the appearance of blemish scarring – working on scar size, depth, texture, thickness and discolouration. The non-comedogenic formula contains salicylic acid and glucosamine to accelerate cell turnover, botanical extract tiger grass to help support the skin’s natural barrier repair, pure vitamin C and hydroxytyrosol to help even skin tone and brighten dark spots, and light diffusers to reduce the appearance of scars. Trade: £18.96 for 15ml 0844 472 7050 murad.co.uk
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Change your shape! LipoContrast Duo THE EVOLUTION OF FAT FREEZING
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Lipocontrast Duo is the most advanced body contouring system available today. The latest clinically proven fat reducing system is now combined with the latest advances in technology, bringing DUO site treatment ability to the world of body contouring. The Duo heads allow two body areas to be treated at the same time, improving efficiency combined with the newest technology in fat freezing. In one hour treat two areas – fast, safe, effective. Target Areas Flanks • Upper and lower abdomen • Back • Thighs • Knees • Gynaecomastia • Arms • Double Chin • Cellulite
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New Products
130 Premier Software Caudalie Purifying Gel Cleanser is the latest addition to Caudalie’s natural skincare range Vinopure. The sulphate-free gel cleans pores without drying out the skin and reduces excess sebum, helping to minimise blemishes. The cleanser is formulated with the brand’s patented complex, which combines antioxidant grapeseed polyphenols with six essential oils, including lemongrass, lavender and geranium. It also contains organic grape water and salicylic acid derived from the wintergreen plant. Trade: £16 for 150ml 020 7498 8944 uk.caudalie.com
The salon and spa software brand has introduced an SMS marketing feature to its SalonLite cloud-based scheduling software. Users can select a premade template, personalise it, specify whom they’d like the marketing message to go out to, and send it out, all with a few clicks. There are six templates: birthday, anniversary, “thank you”, “missing you”, last-minute availability and new treatment. Trade: SalonLite Basic is free. Subscription packages with additional features start from £10 a month 01543 466580 salonlite.com
Oxyjet Oxyjet Go is a new oxygen therapy device from Oxyjet. The patented handheld device is a homeuse version of the original Oxyjet technology that can be retailed to clients to keep up their treatment results between appointments. It delivers microencapsulated oxygen along with concentrated actives into the deepest layers of the dermis using a pulsed pressure method. This encourages cell regeneration, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and smoothing the skin, according to the brand. Two serums are included, containing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and commiphora mukul extract. Trade: £720 01775 722243 oxyjetuk.co.uk
Proto-col Collagen brand Proto-col has launched a new supplement – Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid. The capsules contain 2,500mg verisol bioactive collagen peptides along with 50mg hyaluronic acid, formulated to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles and boost skin’s elasticity. The capsules are ideal to retail to clients after non-invasive clinical procedures to support skin healing by promoting cell proliferation in the fibroblasts. Trade: £22.48 for 120 capsules (one-month supply) 0333 000 7788 proto-col.com professionalbeauty.co.uk
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New Products
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Kryolan The pro make-up brand’s new Brush Soap is a must for MUAs who want to keep their brushes in tip-top condition. The cleanser removes make-up and oil from bristles while also conditioning. It is infused with thyme extract, which has antibacterial properties, and natural orange peel oil, known to dispel grease-build up. The soap is vegan and has no artificial fragrances. RRP: £18.60 for 170g 020 7240 3111 kryolan.com
SkinBetter Science The latest addition to clinical skincare brand SkinBetter Science is AlphaRet Exfoliating Peel Pads. The pads are soaked in a solution of alpharet, a patented combination of a retinoid and lactic acid, along with lactic, glycolic and salicylic acids. Designed to improve skin smoothness, clarity, lines and wrinkles, the pads help clients extend the results of their in-clinic treatments. Trade: £44.50 for 30 pads 01234 313130 (Aesthetic Source) aestheticsource.com
Lova I Skin The Swiss brand’s Instant Foot Peeling kit claims to soften rough feet in less than two minutes – helping clients to maintain pedicure results between appointments. It features a spray, which contains a high concentration of fruit acid and hydrating agents aloe vera, witch hazel, edelweiss and swiss glacier water to eliminate dead skin cells, and a file to further reduce hard skin. It is distributed in the UK by hair and beauty wholesaler Aston and Fincher. Trade: £24.95 0345 201 0825 (Aston and Fincher) astonandfincher.co.uk
Kokolokahi Shared Beauty Secrets has partnered with two UK charities on special-edition Kokolokahi Sensory Retreat Candles. Vitality, in collaboration with breast cancer charity The Pink Ribbon Foundation, has notes of grapefruit, geranium and lavender; while Clarity, created with mental health charity Mind, has a top note of clary sage. The company is donating £1 from each candle sale to the relevant charity. RRP: £27.50 for each 160g candle 01295 235511 (Shared Beauty Secrets) sharedbeautysecrets.com professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Why change from waxing to Aqua Natural? The Ethical Alternative to Depilatory Waxing
Made using 100% natural ingredients. No additives, resins or polymers.
All our products are registered by The Vegan Society.
Aqua Natural is completely water soluble. No need for cleaning solvents or post wax, just a cloth and warm water.
All our products are certified by Cruelty Free International and we support the sustainablitly of bees.
VISIT US ON STAND A19
To complement the hair removal treatments, try our: Pre-Use Talc and Post Use Soothing Mist.
01933 441818
EVENTCITY, MANCHESTER 13-14 OCTOBER 2019
Our sugar paste is environmentally friendly and instantly biodegradable.
www.aquanatural.co.uk
info@aquanatural.co.uk
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Pink Fishes Full MAY.qxp_Layout 1 16/04/2019 15:37 Page 1
Introducing our new unique training school, pinkfishestraining.com
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Special offers: Olympia Beauty Show - 29th & 30th September 2019, Stand B88 & Professional Beauty Show, Manchester - 13th & 14th October 2019, Stand K78. Individual, Russian, Mixed, Mega Volume or Brown (3 for £25) Pre-Fanned, Flat lashes or Camellia lash trays (3 for £35) Lash Pillow £25 All our glues £18 MUA Strip Lashes (11 for £20) MUA Strip Lashes (15 for £25) Pink Elixir (rentention maximiser) £15 Pink Refine (shampoo) £10
The training school complements our beautiful eyelash company, pinkfishes.com supplying over 200 varieties of lashes and accessories worldwide. Annie and myself (Tina) have had the privilege of working with so many talented and inspiring therapists over the past 16 months that we felt that a training school would be a brilliant addition to pinkfishes.com. We are also really excited as later this year we will be opening up a further training school in Birmingham. Our new training school offers all the latest techniques in eyelash extensions, lash lift treatments, and each student will be accredited by The Guild. Our trainers have over 15 years’ experience and students will be given every tool available to be part of the ever-growing beauty world... Our courses include kits worth £100.00, lunch on the day, 1 hour mentoring session, 15% discount voucher for 3 months available to spend at pinkfishes.com and ongoing support. We offer a number of courses to suit everyone’s needs and offer in house training should you want us to visit you in your own salon
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Mobile: 07538 198484
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14/08/2019 10:22
Career Path
136
How to make it as an...
Assessor Assessing learners on beauty courses involves being incredibly organised, but in turn it can be extremely rewarding, explains VTCT quality lead Sonia Robinson
1. Gain as much experience as possible “After years of working in salons, some specialising in make-up, I wanted to pass on my depth of experience to others. I started applying to FE [further education] colleges and secured an allocation to shadow an assessor, unpaid, for three months. From there, I gained a part-time role and started my training. “Some assessors work full-time in one college, others move around. Often the teacher will also be an assessor but these can be separate roles. When I first started, I was placed in four colleges. That meant a lot of travelling, but I was prepared to do that to showcase my skills and the following year I got more work as a result. “After working for several years as an assessor, I did my internal quality assessor (IQA) training, then I became an external quality assessor (EQA), and eventually in 2018 I became quality lead at VTCT, where I lead a team of roughly 60 EQAs.”
2. You have to be process driven “Going back into education after years in the industry means taking everything back to basics, and I did find that challenging at first. As an assessor, you’ve always got to work to the National Occupational Standards (NOS). The awarding bodies set the standards and we, as assessors, ensure that learners are meeting them by either completing a competent assessment, or deciding they will be referred and action planned. If they don’t pass, you need to give clear feedback on the areas they need to develop before taking that assessment again. Always be positive and end on a high though.”
3. Being organised is key “Plan the assessment, prepare, conduct the process and then provide feedback and an action plan: it’s this
continuous cycle that you will work with. It can be hard work and very hectic. “A lot of CPD is required; you have to keep up to date with industry skills so that you’re giving learners the best experience possible. It’s a lot of paperwork, too. You’ve got to make sure your tracking evidence is there – what you record against those standards – because these are things that you in turn will be assessed on. “Standardisation is also important. Sharing good practice with other assessors in your area, and standardising practices locally is a key part of the role.”
4. Be patient with learners “You’re essentially a coach as well as an assessor, talking to learners and finding out the problem if something didn’t go to plan. What we cannot do is say, ‘You will take that assessment’, because it is always a two-way discussion. You have to make sure that the learner is ready, and you have to feel that they are ready too. “Often, motivation will take a dip throughout the year, especially around Easter. You’ve got to let them know that the end is near, that it is achievable. A lot of encouragement, action planning and one-to-one tutorials are needed.”
5. Strive to make a change “I enjoy making a difference to learners who never thought it was possible to achieve a qualification. Many go on to become successful business owners, or even run their own training schools. “Years ago, we held a Level 1 course and we expected mostly teenagers to attend, but a group of mature ladies joined. It was so rewarding to see them stick at something and achieve. Giving people that opportunity to perhaps leave a job that makes them unhappy and make a change feels great.” PB
professionalbeauty.co.uk
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WHEN I GET THAT FEELING, I WANT
N A T U R A L H E A L I N G
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Learn the latest Nanoblading techniques with LVC Nanoblading
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