Professional Beauty UK - December 2018

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DECEMBER 2018

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Are you paying and earning a fair wage?

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Contents

7

Contents 13 News

UK beauty treatment spend nears £7.6bn; Almost half of young British men now practice hair removal

Folli Follie

Regulars

24 Professionalbeauty.co.uk

What the industry’s been talking about online 30 Out & about

Behind the scenes at the industry’s biggest parties and launches 33 Insider

Our exclusive monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 39 Ward’s world

Hellen Ward on how to incentivise your therapists based on financial performance

Features

On the cover

41 Ask the experts

How to boost your tanning revenue and successfully retail supplements

28 National glory

The full shortlist for the national Professional Beauty Awards 2019

83 Nail bites

OPI launches digital nail trials; Q&A with CND’s Samantha Birkett-Leigh

47 Talking to…Sheila McCann

Lanserhof’s general manager tells us about managing the group’s UK sites

54 Sleep easy

Salons and spas are the perfect place to help customers get a better night’s sleep. We explore the science and popularity behind the new suite of sleep treatments on offer

87 Staff strategy

How mystery shoppers can help identify bad practice in your salon

52 Should children be in salons?

Two salon owners debate the topic of kid-free zones in beauty businesses

88 Treatment news

First look at Thalgo’s sensorial body ritual and Sothys’s winter facial

60 Look north

Highlights from Professional Beauty North 2018, including the hot product launches, seminars and debates

90 New products

Your ultimate Christmas wish list: party make-up and winter nail collections 96 Career path

Healer Angie Buxton-King on the experience you need to make it as a complementary therapist

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64 Next big thing

PB North’s lash, nails and make-up championship winners 75 The nation’s best

The 21 salons and spas who took home trophies at the PB Regional Awards 2018

57 Money talks

Want to know how your salon is faring to others in the industry? The most commonly paid wages and commissions for salon owners and employees have been revealed in our exclusive salary survey, as well as the key drivers for job satisfaction 69 Best beauty launches of 2018

The 20 product and treatment launches that got people talking this year and why these innovations were so influential for the industry Cover: Superdry

14/11/2018 10:45

Editor’s Comment

8

If we want to keep skilled therapists in the industry, we have to find ways to pay them a more competitive wage.

This is one of the key takeaways from the results of our exclusive salary survey, in partnership with the new National Beauty Federation (NBF), see page 57.

It’s been more than a year since we began to cover the issues surrounding a shortage of good therapists entering the market and the challenge of retaining them. While a supportive work environment and the ability to progress in their careers go some way towards addressing the issue, the reality is that many good therapists will continue to leave if their income doesn’t start to match their skills and experience.

As NBF ambassador Hellen Ward writes in her column on page 39, perhaps it’s time salons took a more “corporate” approach and mapped their salary and commission packages more rigidly to therapists’ individual financial performance, encouraging them to boost overall business performance in order to earn a justifiable pay rise. Granted, there is no one-size-fits-all approach, but the wages survey indicates that changes need to be implemented in order to make beauty therapy a more attractive profession in which experienced workers feel valued.

So, this month we’re also recognising those individuals and businesses who set the standard in the market and provide some inspiration for others. The 21 winners of the Professional Beauty Regional Awards 2018 are profiled from page 75, while the full shortlist of the national PB Awards 2019 is revealed in all its glory on page 28. Congratualtions to all those who continue to fly the flag for excellence in beauty. We hope their stories inspire you.

@Pro_Beauty01

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Editor

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13 News

News Beauty businesses boosted high street retail in 2017 Beauty businesses outperformed other retail sectors on the high street last year, with overall expenditure at £25.1 billion in 2017.

Research by market analyst Mintel and commissioned by beauty industry organisation CEW (Cosmetic Executive Women) also found that UK consumers spent close to £7.57bn on spa, salon and in-store beauty treatments.

While high street businesses have been suffering of late, there were 50,000 locations offering beauty services at the time the research was undertaken, not including spas. This figure is broken down into: 13,107 beauty salons, 1,512 specialist nail bars/ technicians, 35,704 hair salons, 2,967 specialist barbershops and 302 specialist hair salons.

Spa, salon and in-store treatment services contributed a 30% share of the total £25.1bn spend, with the figure set to rise to £26.9bn by 2022, said CEW’s UK Beauty Industry Report.

The UK is the world’s sixthlargest beauty and personal care market with more than one million people employed, and a per capita spend on products of £155 in 2017, equating to £10.2bn – the fifth highest in the world.

CEW president Caroline Neville, MBE, commented: “Beauty appears to be more resilient than other sectors. Bricks-and-mortar retailing is still crucial to beauty and the primary medium for consumers to interact and purchase brands.”

She added: “The sector’s continual success lies in an ability to innovate, stay relevant and be exciting. This is reflected in its performance in what is one of the toughest trading periods in decades for the high street.”

Government proposes ban on straws and plastic-stemmed cotton buds

Plastic-stemmed cotton buds, straws and drinks stirrers are facing a proposed ban by the UK Government, after it launched a consultation to make the selling or distribution of the plastic items illegal.

Eliminating single-use plastic items is high on the Government’s agenda as part of its 25-year

Environment Plan. Plasticstemmed cotton buds are in the top 10 most common marine litter items to get washed up on the world’s beaches, and most use plastic-based adhesives to secure the cotton tips.

While the buds are a common consumable for salons and spas, they “cause multiple environmental harms particularly when they are discarded incorrectly, including harm to marine animals and visual pollution,” said the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs’s impact assessment.

“Even if disposed of correctly,

plastic-stemmed cotton buds may end up in incineration, generating high carbon emissions… Intervention is required in order to shift the cotton bud market to plastic-free alternatives that already exist and decompose much quicker.”

The consultation will run to December 3, 2018, and can be accessed at consult.defra.gov.uk.

The salon and spa industry continues to take steps to cut down on plastics usage.

BC Softwear has pledged to remove the individual plastic wrapping from every pair of spa and hotel slippers it sells from January 1, 2019, as well as the plastic wrappers from towels. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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inbrief

First degree for aesthetic therapists to launch in January

The first undergraduate-level degree in aesthetics for beauty therapists will soon be open for applicants.

From January 2019, Level 3 therapists can now gain a BSc in Clinical Cosmetology with Fusion Aesthetic Academy, a training provider directed by medical needling expert and aesthetics trainer Andrew Hansford and accredited by the University of Bolton.

The three-year degree includes 22 modules, mapped to the original HEE Framework, that can be taken at the student’s own pace. The course accreditors will also take into account prior knowledge and experience, meaning, for example, that some very experienced therapists may be eligible to do the final-year modules only.

The aesthetic therapist pathway comprises units including mesotherapy, IPL, electrotherapy, pathogens, and anatomy and physiology; while the medical pathway covers toxin and filler, advanced peels and ultrasound, among other modules.

Only doctors, dentists, nurses and pharmacists are qualified for this route. Unlike many other courses, there are no online modules.

The courses were developed in association with Helen Gordon, manager of the Wynyard Aesthetics Academy, and are externally moderated. Degree certificates are awarded from the University of Bolton, which officially recognises the course.

Hansford said: “Too many courses make false promises and I felt it was unfair that there was no universityaccredited pathway for beauty therapists above Level 4. I want therapists to be able to say ‘I’ve proven I’m the best I can be and I can stand side by side with medics with a recognised degree’.”

Self-care trend causes night-time skincare sales to soar 7% The “self-care” trend has impacted the prestige night-time skincare category, causing sales to grow 7% in the period from October 2017 to September 2018.

According to analyst The NPD Group, “me-time” has seen consumers adopting a more targeted approach to their night-time beauty rituals. As a result, anti-ageing night skincare has increased 9% in this time period, driving 74% of growth in night-only skincare, the report found.

Sales of night eye products, including masks and creams, also

increased 14%, while facial gels rose 12% and facial oils 4%.

“Beauty brands are delivering their technical expertise with innovative products to work on the skin overnight,” said June Jensen, NPD UK’s beauty director.

News

15

// The Susan Gerrard Beauty Academy has been named a Habia Centre of Expertise, the only one in the South of England, and one of only six in the UK. The status was earned after the academy met rigorous assessment criteria and passed a site visit by an industry assessor. // Sweet Squared is looking for techs to provide stand-out nail art using CND, Lecenté or :Yours products for its 2019 catalogue. Nail pros can be recognised by posting their work online before January 1, 2019, using the #s2nailart, for a chance to be credited in the catalogue. // Seaham Hall Spa in County Durham has set up a shop fit in a local retail park until December 31 to encourage Christmas shopper relaxation. The spa team will promote gifting experiences and perform spa party demonstrations to engage new customers. // QMS Medicosmetics founder Dr Eric Schulte has been awarded the spa pioneer award at the World Spa Awards 2018 in recognition of his contribution to the spa and wellness industry and to the science of skincare. // Becky Woodhouse, founder of Pure Spa & Beauty, has been selected for the EY Entrepreneurial Winning Women Class of 2018. The programme identifies entrepreneurs whose businesses show potential to become market leaders. The spa group has also launched a new marketplace for clean beauty brands called The Pure Beauty Zone.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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News

16

inbrief

// CACI training officer Ruby Sidhu visited Spanish distributor DRV-phytolab’s headquarters in Madrid to provide a comprehensive course on the brand’s breakthrough technology to the team of ambassadors after the non-invasive system experienced success at overseas shows. // CEW held its 17th annual Achiever Awards, at the Jumeirah Carlton Tower hotel in London to honour beauty professionals for their inspirational work and innovative thinking. Among the winners were Jane Wurwand, co-founder of Dermalogica, who won the Lifetime Achiever Award; and Matthew Moulding, founder of The Hut Group, which owns Espa, who won the Special Industry Award. // HD Brows has launched a Christmas make-up class, Tis The Season To Sparkle.

The course will be held in the brand’s make-up academy in Leeds. Taught by make-up artist Rebecca Cathcart, the four-hour session will run on November 29 and December 6. // Obagi distributor Healthxchange has announced the Obagi Challenge is back for a second year, encouraging clinics and practitioners to submit their best patient transformations for the chance to win a £300 spa voucher. Patients can also win a £1,000 holiday voucher. // Lava shells returned to The X Factor house to treat contestants to a Lava Shells heated massage. Other celebrity fans include 2017 winners Rak-Su, Little Mix and Amanda Holding.

Almost half of young British men now practice hair removal

More young men in the UK are going “hair-free” than ever before, with 46% removing hair from their bodies, compared to 36% in 2016, according to a new report by market analyst Mintel.

More than half (57%) of men aged 16 to 24 years old are removing hair from their pubic region, up from 40% in 2016, with many choosing to shave, wax or laser their way to a smooth finish.

The popularity of hair removal from the chest has doubled as the smoothtorso trend continues to take hold, rising from 15% in 2016 to 30% in 2018.

When it comes to underarms, 42% now go hairless compared to 16% just two years ago, the report found.

Facial hair removal is also on the up, rising from 73% in 2016 to 80% in 2018, and the popularity of eyebrow tidy-ups has risen, with more than four in 10 young Brits doing this as part of their beauty routine.

“Reality TV shows such as Love Island have popularised hairless torsos, normalising the hair-free aesthetic among men,” said Roshida Khanom, associate director, beauty and personal care at Mintel.

Millennial men hide grooming habits from their partners While young men might be embracing grooming routines, just over a third still keep those habits a secret from their partners, a study by market research company Atomik Research has found.

Millennial men (25 to 34 years old) are the most secretive about their beauty regime, with 65% hiding products, while the older generation (45 plus) are the most open about it, with only 13% keeping a secret stash.

The study also revealed that four in 10 men (39%) treat themselves to treatments in their lunch hour, which

is higher than women (24%), with the most popular being facials (14%), hair removal (13%) and botox (11%).

The most-used beauty product among British men is moisturiser (49%), followed by face wash (47%) and hair styling products (40%), the report found.

Active Spa business membership developed by UKSA and ukactive In a bid to offer tailored business support to operators that provide both spa and fitness services, spa industry trade body the UK Spa Association (UKSA) has joined forces with ukactive, an organisation for the physical activity sector, to launch a joint Active Spa membership.

UKSA chairman Charlie Thompson said: “Our members will get better value from this joint membership option and our reach will extend beyond 1,000 spas to really push the crucial issues around national

wellbeing and industry staffing that are at the crux of the future for us all. We hope spa operators will see this partnership as a huge benefit to the growth and credibility of the spa industry in the UK.”

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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14/11/2018 11:14

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News

18

inbrief // The Spa at the Midland, Manchester, has appointed Rebecca Holmes as director of spa, replacing Helena Greszk, who left to become general manager of the UK Spa Association.

Holmes previously held senior positions at Handpicked Hotels and Macdonald Hotels, most recently spa & leisure development manager at Brooklands Hotel, Surrey. // The Advanced Nutrition Programme (ANP) announced the winners of its international awards, recognising the achievements of its distributing partner operations across four categories. The winner of the 2018 Newcomer of the Year Award was BeautyCare, New Zealand. The ceremony was held during ANP’s 2018 international business development conference in the Cotswolds. // Salon System hosted its Just Wax Advanced Masterclass at the Alan Howard Training Academy in Stockport. Waxing experts discovered more about the new range and learned from ambassadors Lisa Stone and Andy Rouillard. // The Spa at Bedford Lodge, Suffolk, has launched its new Wellbeing in the Workplace initiative encouraging businesses to reclaim their lunch break.

The spa will be offering pop-ups to local business with an expert therapist providing mini-treatments. // Neom Organics has launched a two-floor flagship store in Guildford, Surrey, designed by founder and creative director Nicola Elliott and her team to give customers the ultimate Neom wellbeing experience.

Level 2 Trailblazer beauty therapist apprenticeship receives Government go-ahead The Government has approved the Level 2 Trailblazer beauty therapy apprenticeship standards and assessment plan for use in England.

The apprenticeship will have a maximum funding cap of £7,000.

Small employers will not have to pay anything towards the cost of training and assessments providing they have fewer than 50 employees and take on 16-18 year olds or those aged 19-24 who have been in care or have a local authority care plan. An incentive payment of £1,000 will also be available to salons and their training provider to support the additional costs of training these groups.

However, employers taking on older apprentices will be expected to contribute 10% of the cost, a sum of £700 per apprentice.

The Nail Services Technician and Beauty and Make-up Consultancy standards are still with the Institute

for Apprenticeships (IFA) awaiting approval. George Hammer, chair of the Trailblazer Steering Group for beauty professionals, said: “My thanks go out to all the beauty salon owners who have put in considerable time and effort to make these standards a reality. These standards will make apprentices more salon ready when they finish training and so I feel what we’ve achieved will make a difference.”

Half of young Brits will undergo an aesthetic treatment next year More than half (62%) of millennials and Generation Z (collectively aged 18 to 34) are considering undergoing a non-surgical aesthetic treatment in the next 12 months, compared to just 28% of those over 35.

According to research by online marketplace RealSelf, the 18 to 34 age group is also more likely to have had a non-surgical or surgical cosmetic

treatment in the past year (40%) compared to their older counterparts (14%). When asked why they are considering treatment, 60% said life events have influenced their decision, while the desire to look more youthful (23%), a milestone birthday (18%), upcoming holiday (18%) or starting a new job/relationship (13%) were other cited reasons.

The top five non-surgical treatments under consideration by Brits are: cosmetic dentistry (43%), laser hair removal (29%), facial skin treatments (28%), dermal fillers (24%) and Botox (18%).

However, respondents did have some key concerns about aesthetic treatments, including a fear of complications or bad results (53%), the price of the procedure (48%) and finding the right provider (30%).

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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News

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diarydates // Spatex 2019 January 29–31 Ericsson Exhibition Hall, Ricoh Arena, Coventry International spa and pool exhibition with seminars and new product showcase.

01264 358558 spatex.co.uk // IMCAS World Congress 2019 January 31–February 2 Palais de Congrès, Paris International expo covering aesthetic procedures. +33 140 738 282 imcas.com/en // Professional Beauty GCC 2019 February 17–18 Festival Arena, Dubai The fifth edition of Professional Beauty in the Middle East. +971 (0)4 375 7300 professionalbeauty.ae // Professional Beauty and World Spa & Wellness Awards February 24 The Brewery, London Glamorous awards evening to recognise the best UK beauty businesses and global spas.

020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ awards

// Professional Beauty London February 24–25 ExCeL London The UK’s leading beauty industry trade show returns with top-name brands, launches, competitions, and new feature Active Wellness.

020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ london // World Spa & Wellness Convention February 24–25 ExCeL London The spa conference now features two streams focused on wellness and financial success to ensure all delegates leave with ideas on how to grow their businesses.

020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com

Novalash outlines plans to target spas and accounts in the North under new distribution Sarah-Anne Barham (pictured), co-director of Novalash UK, who is also an ambassador and UK master trainer for the company, has revealed her 2019 plans for the brand, after taking over as distributor in the summer.

Barham said: “Our mission is to get into the spa market; we have a premium product and our adhesive is oil and waterproof, so ideal for spa clients because it doesn’t disrupt their experience.”

Growing the brand’s presence in the North is also high on the agenda for next year, as Barham said she was keen to build on the brand’s current success in the South East and Scotland.

Barham now sells the brand via Sarah-Anne’s Beauty Distribution – which trades as Novalash UK – with her sister and co-director Christina Barham, after being approached by

Novalash earlier this year.

The brand operated in the UK from an office in Brighton for seven years before deciding to hand over to a distributor in order to focus on international expansion in other markets.

The business now operates from a “mini warehouse” and office space next door to Barham’s salon Sarah-Anne’s Beauty in Felixstowe, Suffolk.

Glow salon wins CACI PB North giveaway Glow salon in Wrexham was the lucky recipient of machine brand CACI’s giveaway at Professional Beauty North in Manchester Central on Monday, October 22.

The brand held a competition in the run-up to the show for one lucky salon owner to win a CACI Synergy system worth £15,000.

Those wanting to be in with a chance had to register using a special code then have their badge scanned on the CACI stand.

Glow owner Sara Shoemark, who also operates salons in nearby Chester and

Mold, commented on the win: “We love CACI at Glow – we’ve been working with the brand for more than 20 years and it has never let us down. To win was overwhelming and the reactions of the Glow team were simply wonderful.

I’m particularly excited about the microcurrent and LED technology in the Synergy device.

Combined with the other technologies, it will mean we can give our clients even better, longer-lasting results.”

She has since ordered additional CACI Synergy machines for her other two salons.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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for you, your business and your career...

Whether you’re starting out, in your stride or looking to expand, invest in a day for your business at Professional Beauty London.

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06/11/2018 15:18

24 Digital

professional

beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Lesley Leale-Green Beauty Aesthetics & Laser Clinic (@LLGLondon): Coming back to reality after an amazing team trip to @pro_beauty North and the PB Regional Awards We were so thrilled to be a finalist for the South East of England. Congrats to all the winners and finalists.

Thanks team PB

✨��

✨��

Hot topic Olive Tree Marketing (@OliveTreeMS): Coffee break with @pro_beauty #InternationalCoffeeDay

✨��

Managing the day-today stress of running a small business Samantha Humberstone, owner of Lotions n Potions beauty salon, commented: “For me, it’s making sure the basic things run smoothly and are taken care of, such as a good booking system.

If you get the fundamentals right then this frees you up to focus on other areas.”

Hot topic THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Have you made preparations for Brexit at your business?

16% YES

Government proposes plastic-stem cotton bud ban @pro_beauty01: A consultation has been launched proposing a ban on selling or distributing plastic-stemmed cotton buds. What do you think?

Emma Cammack, freelance body painter and artist, commented: “There are viable alternatives out there, not just for cotton buds but most make-uprelated disposables. Let’s do this.”

Julie Walker, owner of the Beauty Bank at The Hair Bank Urmston, commented: “The stem could easily be made from paper, like a drumstick lolly stick with the buds at the end #saveourplanet”

84% NO

Follow Professional Beauty… and the team: @pro_beauty01

@eveoxberry @mini_pauley

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK

@georgeseago @fivlemmiks

uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty

@lydiamormen @katsjonouchi

professionalbeauty.co.uk

024-025 PBDEC18 Digital.indd 24

14/11/2018 10:51

25 Digital

What’s on

hot

Your one-stop shop where all the latest news, features, products and expert opinions are brought together and streamed by sector-specific channel

PB ONLINE

LASHES, BROWS & MAKE-UP CHANNEL

Video: Lash and brow treatments – the importance of patch testing With stories of lash and brow treatment reactions hitting the headlines, patch testing is back in the spotlight. In our exclusive video, Natalie Piper, lash artist and business development manager for The Eyelash Design Company, reveals her top tips for carrying out a safe patch test in salon.

SKINCARE & SPA CHANNEL

NAILS CHANNEL

Blog: Can you eat your way to better skin?

Blog: N ail techs – how to prevent a contact allergy

Karen Shirlaw, director of Professional Beauty Regional Award-winning Beautique Medispa, discusses how the right diet can be the building block for great skin and why supplements should have shelf space in your salon.

Have you experienced a contact allergy? Katie Barnes, PB’s Nail Professional of the Year 2018, shares her advice for best practice when working with products containing methacrylate, to keep both yourself and your clients safe.

Watch our exclusive videos now: professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbtv

Whatever your speciality, stay in the know on the sector that matters to you with our six online channels, packed with curated content on need-to-know business skills and training advice.

Skincare & Spa

Nails

Tanning & Waxing

Advanced Treatments

Business & Training

Lashes, Brows & Make-up

professionalbeauty.co.uk

024-025 PBDEC18 Digital.indd 25

14/11/2018 10:52

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06/11/2018 15:06

Professional Beauty Awards 2019

28

National GLORY

Find out which businesses and individuals are set to shine in the upcoming PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY AWARDS 2019 Following the results of the Professional Beauty Regional Awards 2018 in Manchester on October 21, the shortlist for the beauty salon and spa categories of the 2019 national awards can now be revealed.

The shortlist for the five salon and spa categories is made up of the winners and particularly high-scoring finalists from the 2018 Regional Awards.

The finalists of the remaining six categories were revealed in September and can also be viewed below. For these categories – Employer, Therapist, Nail Salon, Nail Professional, Make-up Specialist and Medical Aesthetic Clinic – businesses and individuals entered directly.

The full 2019 shortlist is:

Large Beauty Salon of the Year Beauty & Man at the Gate, Holton le Clay, Lincolnshire Hazelwood, Chippenham, Wiltshire The Little Retreat, Owthorpe, Nottinghamshire Peaches Wax Bar, Glasgow The Potting Shed Spa, Batley, West Yorkshire Red House Spa, Amersham Urban Beauty & Skincare Centre, Dundonald, Belfast

Boutique Beauty Salon of the Year All About You – Urban Beauty Retreat, Newcastle upon Tyne Beautique MediSpa, Dorking, Surrey nkd ( ) waxing, Leicester Prestige Health & Beauty, Morecambe, Lancashire The Secret Spa, Wrexham Zen Lifestyle, Edinburgh

Residential Spa of the Year: 11 Rooms or More Gaia Spa, Plymouth, Devon Hoar Cross Hall, Burton upon Trent, Staffordshire Kohler Waters Spa at the Old Course Hotel, St Andrews, Scotland Pennyhill Park, Bagshot, Surrey The Spa Hotel at Ribby Hall, Wrea Green, Lancashire Seaham Hall Serenity Spa, Seaham, County Durham Slieve Donard Resort & Spa, Newcastle, Down

Residential Spa of the Year: 10 Rooms or Fewer The Spa at Bedford Lodge, Newmarket, Suffolk The Spa, Corrick House Hotel, County Tyrone, Northern Ireland The Spa at the Midland, Manchester Swinton Country Club & Spa, Ripon, North Yorkshire

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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14/11/2018 10:54

Professional Beauty Awards 2019

29

Nail Professional of the Year Eden Hall Day Spa, Newark, Nottinghamshire Inside Spa, Nelson, Lancashire Parc Spa, Llanelli, Carmarthenshire Thai Square Spa, London

Michelle Brookes, Beauty Lounge, Doncaster Karen M Brown, freelance, Cambus Kayley Cairns, The Nail Boutique, Billericay Metta Francis, Nails By Mets, London Jo Wickens, Jojo’s Nails, Newton Abbot

Nail Salon of the Year

Make-up Specialist of the Year

Coco Nail Bar, London Nail’d it, London Nails & Brows, London Niche Nails & Beauty, Oxfordshire Semilac UK Solihull, West Midlands

Sita Gill, freelance, London Clare Pearson, Pearson & Devine, Oban, Scotland Shannon Shea, SS Makeup Studio, Bordon, Hampshire Aoife Taggart, House of Evelyn, Manchester Betsy-Dora Turner, Betsy Make-up Studios, Lancashire

Day Spa of the Year

Employer of the Year Beauty Matters, Leeds nkd ( ) waxing, Nottingham Pure Spa & Beauty, Edinburgh Saks Hair & Beauty, West Bridgford, Nottingham Zen Lifestyle, Edinburgh

Medical Aesthetic Clinic of the Year EF Medispa, London KLNIK, Cheshire MediZen Cosmetic Clinic, Sutton Coldfield Radiance MediSpa, Exeter Viva Skin Clinic, London

Therapist of the Year Emma Chilvers, The Potting Shed Spa, Batley, Yorkshire Jennifer Glen, Zen Lifestyle, Edinburgh Diana Jenner, Orchids Retreat, Lymington, Hampshire Deborah Anne King, Angel Loving Care, West Lothian, Scotland Jody Adele Taylor, Skin Deep, Doncaster Danielle Woods, The Woodland Spa, Burnley, Lancashire

Finalists in all categories will now go on to the second round of the judging process, which varies depending on category but involves judging visits, trade tests and interviews.

The winners will be announced at a black-tie dinner on February 24, 2019, at Grade II-listed venue The Brewery, London, where the winners of the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2019 will also be revealed.

The night will start with a champagne reception, followed by a sumptuous threecourse meal, in-show entertainment and an after party.

Tickets cost £149 +VAT per person or £1,490 +VAT for a table of 10. Online ticket bookings for the awards are now open at professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards WITH THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS

professionalbeauty.co.uk

028-029 PBDEC17 PB Awards Shortlist.indd 29

14/11/2018 12:59

Industry Events

30

&

Out About

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

APPLE & EVE 18TH BIRTHDAY PARTY KENSINGTON, LONDON

Beauty salon Apple and Eve celebrated its 18th birthday by inviting press and loyal customers for prosecco cocktails, lash lift demonstrations and complimentary treatments. Deputy editor Amanda Pauley received a manicure while editorial assistant Lydia Mormen got an eyebrow wax. Having just taken on skincare brand Dermalogica, the team was also offering free Face Mapping sessions to guests.

BUSINESS AND BEAUTY LECTURE MANCHESTER COLLEGE Manchester College invited Real Housewives of Cheshire star Dawn Ward to host a lecture for beauty students. The successful entrepreneur and TV personality spoke about business, beauty and being the best you can be during a three-hour talk to Level 2, 3 and 4 beauty, make-up and massage students. The talk featured several demos, including advanced microdermabrasion and light therapy.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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14/11/2018 10:57

PB MAKE-UP SPECIALIST JUDGING DAY LCBT, LONDON Four make-up artists went head-tohead to prove they’re the leading talent in the industry at the Professional Beauty Make-up Specialist of the Year 2019 judging day. At the London College of Beauty Therapy (LCBT) campus in Central London, finalists Sita Gill, Clare Pearson, Shannon Shea and Betsy-Dora Turner had one hour to create a beauty look based on an iconic singer, followed by an interview with judges. Winners will be announced at the PB Awards on February 24.

Industry Events

31

YTSARA AND ROBERT PARKER HOTEL SPAS LAUNCH WORDSWORTH HOTEL, LAKE DISTRICT Features writer Fiona Vlemmiks attended the launch of the Ytsara spa range at The Wordsworth Hotel. The evening began with prosecco cocktails, while treatment demos were carried out. Each guest experienced a mini treatment – Fiona opted for a massage. A Thai-themed afternoon tea followed, while head trainer Lucy Bullen and distributor Claudia Agha told guests more about the range in a short presentation.

PURE BEAUTY ZONE LAUNCH PURE SPA LONDON CITY Features editor Georgia Seago attended the unveiling of the Pure Beauty Zone concept, a new UK marketplace for natural beauty products at the London site of Scotland-based salon chain Pure Spa. Guests were welcomed with a glass of prosecco, received hand massages, and were shown the new natural and organic beauty brands that will be stocked in partnership with natural beauty start-up specialist The Clean Hub. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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14/11/2018 10:58

Apraise_NEW_lash_and_brow_serum_ADVERT_A4_Aug18.indd 1

05/09/2018 13:45

33 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

With recruitment still one of the biggest challenges in the industry, finding ways to retain the great therapists you employ is at the forefront of your priorities.

With many recognising the power a good working culture and competitive wages have in keeping star employees, just under half of you (42%) are reviewing staff salaries yearly, while nearly a third (30%) are working to a less rigid structure, assessing them as and when employee’s goals are met.

Do you want to know the average salary for the industry so you can benchmark your business? Head to page 57 to read the findings from our exclusive salary survey, in collaboration with the NBF and NHF, covering the most commonly paid national wages and bonuses in the beauty industry.

On the spot

Folli Follie

beauty

What are the key qualities you look for in front-ofhouse staff?

1. Professional manner 2. Good listener 3. Adaptability 4. Time-management skills

45

%

October 2018 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

62% 24% 14% BETTER

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend.

Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider

033-036 PBDEC18 Insider.indd 33

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

have attended, or would like to attend, a course to help them spot the signs of domestic abuse in clients

How often do you review your employees’ salaries?

1. Annually 2. Based on when goals/objectives are met 3. Every six months

SAME

63% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

40% 36% 24% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

14/11/2018 11:00

Business Trends

34

Insider

spa

On the spot What are the key qualities you look for in front-of-house staff?

Accessorize

The role you and your team play in your clients’ lives is so important, as 23% of you have realised after attending a course to help you spot the signs of domestic abuse. It’s a challenging topic to talk about but, as a trusted professional, you have the power to help change someone’s life by asking the right questions.

Many of you have also focused on getting the right people working your reception desk. As such, having a professional manner, listening to clients’ needs and good time-management skills are attributes you look for in front of house staff.

Business for the spa industry was also up compared to last year’s figures, with you reporting an increase in treatment bookings, resulting in an 80% room occupancy, and a boost in retail.

Don’t forget to turn to page 75 to see which spas took home top trophies at the prestigious Professional Beauty Regional Awards 2018.

October 2018 in numbers

1. Time-management skills 2. Good listener 3. Professional manner 4. Living and breathing the business’s brand values

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

60% 23% 17% BETTER

23%

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

have attended, or would like to attend, a course to help them spot the signs of domestic abuse on a client

80% How often do you review your employees’ salaries?

1. Annually 2. Based on when goals/ objectives are met 3. Every six months

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

42% BETTER

35%

23% WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

033-036 PBDEC18 Insider.indd 34

14/11/2018 11:01

REM_Professional Beauty Ad_Aragon

#theOriginal

sales@rem.co.uk +44 1282 619977

Untitled-1 1

The Aragon, conceived and designed in the UK by REM See the collection at rem.co.uk

25/10/2018 15:18

Insider

nails

With the popularity of chrome nails showing no signs of slowing down, many of you are reporting seeing more clients coming in for the look than ever before. However, the technique doesn’t come without its challenges, with 43% of your techs admitting they’ve experienced chipping and peeling when trying to master the design. Not getting a mirror-like effect (20%) and the chrome not adhering properly (15%) are the other most common issues.

Gelish came out top as your favourite brand for dip systems, with 22% of you now using it, followed closely by Cuccio (17%) and NSI (13%).

Meanwhile, as the war on plastic waste continues, just under half of you have started stocking plasticfree nail glitters in your salon or spa to show your commitment to the cause.

For the latest nail news and advice on how competing in nail competitions, turn to page 83.

On the spot What is the most common troubleshooting issue you face when using chrome pigments?

Vera Mont

Business Trends

36

1. Chipping and peeling 2. Not getting a mirror-like effect 3. The chrome not adhering 4. Wrinkling when applying the top coat

October 2018 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

52% 38% 10%

47%

BETTER

use plastic-free nail glitters

SAME

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK

39

Which nail brand does the best dip system?

1. Gelish 2. Cuccio 3. NSI 4. Kiara Sky METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from November 1–8, regarding business for the month to October 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by spas and salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN OCTOBER 2018 COMPARE WITH OCTOBER 2017?

18% 62% 20% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

033-036 PBDEC18 Insider.indd 36

14/11/2018 11:01

14Years in the Industry

AWARD

WINNING

PRODUCTS Innovative Techniques Your business and clients deserve the best.

Find a stylist or a class near you

Go to novalash.com or call 01273 041966

Untitled-1 1

03/04/2018 13:52

STRONG

& Dependable

Booking Software

Ward’s World

39

Performance PERKS

In light of the new wages survey, it’s never been more important to incentivise our teams based on financial performance, writes HELLEN WARD

T

he newly formed NBF (National Beauty Federation), in partnership with the NHF (National Hairdressers’ Federation)

and Professional Beauty, has just published a 2018 Wages Survey, which you can read about in full on page 57.

One of the key findings was that qualified beauty therapists are leaving the industry or going selfemployed due to low pay. Salon owners, on the other hand, are struggling to retain good staff and are nervous to increase prices in order to cover costs and pay more to staff. Hence, we find ourselves in a vicious circle.

Finding good staff has never been so crucial – or so challenging. The reality is that well-qualified beauty therapists and nail techs are drifting away from a profession that gives them enormous satisfaction (according to the survey) is frankly heartbreaking.

I’ve long believed that a reputation for paying well is a worthy one to have, and performance-related pay is key. Nurturing talent means we must be generous in our commission rates and devise salary structures that help to motivate and inspire our productive, turnover-producing staff to see their columns as a business within a business, so they are always incentivised to perform to the maximum.

I’m astounded at how many salon owners won’t shell out on good commission rates or create a decent infrastructure that enables therapists to focus on delivering the client experience. Many take a shortsighted approach and refuse to employ receptionists or assistants. A well-trained customer service assistant can be incentivised on upselling appointments (that will easily cover the cost of their wages) and for us, they help with the smooth running of the salon floor and are essential to allow our senior beauty professionals to focus on their clients and perform at their peak.

In not paying decent salary packages, aren’t we guilty of perpetuating the myth that we are working in an inferior sector?

Create a structure Getting optimum turnover is a win-win, and the simplest salary structures – such as a basic wage or commission rate dependent on level of experience, where the employee gets whichever is the greater amount – work brilliantly to ensure the team go out of their way to deliver over and above, and also feel the benefit in their own pocket.

Commanding respect

Everyone working in the beauty industry wants to champion it, but in not paying decent salary packages, aren’t we guilty of perpetuating the myth that we are working in an inferior sector?

I went to an important industry meeting recently where a Government representative started it with a joke about the fact he gets a £9 haircut. I found it immensely disrespectful that a civil servant who is getting paid to champion our apprenticeship system, where we were giving our valuable time freely, started by belittling our jobs. You won’t be surprised that I let him know what I thought of that!

We must all do our bit to ensure we give our industry the kudos it deserves and retain the skilled team members that we work so hard to train and cultivate. It is a simple case of those that do will win and those that don’t will fail. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for The National Beauty Federation (NBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

039 PBDEC18 Wards World.indd 39

14/11/2018 11:02

THE WORLD’S FIRST HIGH POWERED SIMULTANEOUS HAIR REMOVAL DEVICE

Treats light and dark skin types Can be optimized for all skin types, all hair colours and hair thicknesses Call Neil now to arrange a demo: 020 8965 2594. info@inmodemd.co.uk

Ask the Experts

41

ask

the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

How should I talk to a client about their potentially embarrassing skin or scalp complaint?

Most important is to make sure that you don’t look visibly shocked or panicked – this will make clients feel self-conscious and may even prevent them from returning to the salon. Try and stay calm and maintain an unflappable composure. Be understanding and empathetic.

It is important to inform your clients if you do see a skin or scalp issue so that they can get help from their doctor promptly, but it must be done sensitively. Have the conversation in a private setting, as you don’t know how the client will react and they may not even be aware of the problem.

Keep it factual and state exactly what you see on their skin or scalp but don’t try to make a diagnosis. Although you may well be right, it’s best to advise them to see their doctor.

Examples of ways to open up the conversation include: “Are you aware that you have quite a bit of scaling and redness on your scalp? It looks really sore/uncomfortable. Have you had that looked at by your doctor?” or, “While I was massaging your hair I noticed you have lots of white structures attached to the strands. It could be dandruff or infections or

infestations of the hair can look similar. It would be best to see your doctor and get it checked out”.

Reassure clients that you see these conditions regularly and that they can be easily treated, but suggest that they get the diagnosis confirmed by their doctor first, who can then start treatment accordingly.

Dr Sharon Wong is a GMC-registered consultant dermatologist based in London who regularly advises the media.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

041-044 PBDEC18 Ask the Experts.indd 41

14/11/2018 11:05

42 Ask the Experts

How can I boost my fake tanning treatment revenue during the winter months?

Many therapists feel that discounting treatments can be a way of boosting revenue in the quieter months.

However, I always advise other effective methods outside of price.

For example, try creating a “winter glam” package offering tans alongside lash and nail treatments, perfect for festive partygoers.

You could also create a Thursday evening winter tanning package to encourage clients to come with friends on dark winter nights and enjoy a complimentary hot chocolate on arrival.

As well as packages, you can highlight tanning solutions most suitable for the time of year and promote these to clients. For example, our Tan in an Hour solution is perfect for those who need to glam up quickly before seasonal parties, while our Clear Tan solution is ideal for clients who want to snuggle up in their pajamas after tanning without the risk of product transfer.

I’ve heard a lot about plasma technology. How does it rejuvenate the skin?

Another idea is to create a winter loyalty scheme for November through to March. Clients could receive a complimentary product when they

Plasma is currently one of the most sought-after anti-ageing technologies

spend over a certain amount on tan

because of how versatile it is. It is a non-laser treatment that uses a device

treatment bookings.

to deliver energy in the form of plasma to lift and rejuvenate skin, improving facial lines, wrinkles and pigmentation associated with photoageing.

Plasma is an ionised gas composed of ions and electrons, which is created by the separation of electrons from the electron shell of gas atoms or

Remember to keep your social media and communications regular and relevant, changing images to reflect the season.

molecule rupture. Devices like the Jett Plasma Pen create ionisation while the instrument is hovered just over (not touching) the skin, creating a reaction in the tissues.

The plasma energy flow stimulates new collagen formation, improves sun damage, reduces wrinkles and smooths the skin’s surface. This treatment is particularly good when working with small areas of heavily lined skin such as the upper and lower eye and above the mouth. However, results do vary between devices depending on spot size and depth. These factors are of utmost importance for client safety during plasma treatments.

I would highly recommend doing thorough research into Dr Vincent Wong is one of London’s leading aesthetics practitioners and the UK clinical trainer for the Jett Medical Plasma Pen.

which device you should purchase, as some are medicalonly and there has recently been an influx of cheap, unregulated

Laura Jones is senior product manager for Sienna X, overseeing the brand’s tanning ranges and working with professional accounts.

products on the UK market.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

041-044 PBDEC18 Ask the Experts.indd 42

14/11/2018 11:06

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Untitled-13 1

06/08/2018 17:32

Ask the Experts

44

How can I negate the impact of cortisol on the skin?

Cortisol is our body’s main stress hormone, our in-built alarm system. It helps regulate motivation and sleep but in excess is linked to stubborn fat, anxiety and sleeplessness.

We’ve long been aware that stress can have a negative physical impact on our bodies and now we’re more aware of the effect cortisol can have on our skin. This includes inflammation and dehydration, which leads to signs of premature ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles.

Symptoms can vary from one person to the next. If you think about how clients’ skin looks when they’re back from holiday, then – aside from a

I am considering retailing supplements in my salon as part of my anti-ageing offer. What are the benefits?

After being introduced to yet another collagen supplement at the

tan – it is often in its best shape due to vitamin D, sleep-related regeneration, and an absence of everyday stress and excess cortisol.

The best way to help clients combat

Professional Beauty North show in October, I began considering the

the negative effects of cortisol is via

growing trend of thinking about food as building blocks for great skin.

products with cortisol-calming and

The chances are your clients are already showing signs of ageing, maybe

anti-inflammatory properties.

at an accelerated rate compared to their friends, and realise that there’s a

Marjoram leaf extract helps activate

limitation to what can be achieved with products. They might also be aware

the skin’s fibroblasts, which work to

that their efforts are helping their face, neck and hands, but everything else

calm cortisol, while wild indigo extract

is not as youthful looking.

is an anti-stress active that helps to

Supplements should definitely have shelf space in your salon or clinic, but

break down cortisol from external

unfortunately not all are created equal. You may have to investigate quite a

stressors. It also stimulates the natural

bit before deciding which to invest in.

release of beta-endorphins, which are

For me, the light at the end of the ageing tunnel relates to the trickling of

calming neuro-peptides. Next-

breakthroughs in the science of longevity into the beauty world, and the

generation skincare products like

idea of bio-hacking to get the best results with minimum effort. I retail

QMS Medicosmetics EpiGen Daily

Prolon, a fasting mimicking diet plan. Yes, clients will drop a dress size or

Detox Serum and new EpiGen

two when on the plan, but the real benefit is its rejuvenation properties for

Overnight Sleeping Mask work on

the skin. The topic of intermittent

these principles.

fasting and keto-genic dieting is Karen Shirlaw is director of Beautique Medispa, Dorking, winner of South East Boutique Salon of the Year at the Professional Beauty Regional Awards 2018.

vast, and food choices and supplements are now becoming part of people’s beauty regimes, so it’s definitely worth exploring if you want to up your approach

Rowan Hall-Farrise is head facialist and educator at QMS Medicosmetics, the professional spa and salon skincare brand known for its collagen treatments.

to ageing.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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NEW

PIGMENTS

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02/10/2018 10:44

47 Interview

Talking to...

Sheila McCann

T

The general manager of Lanserhof UK tells Amanda Pauley about her plans for the spa-style medical institution’s London and Surrey sites, and integrating preventative health into a spa offering

o say that Sheila McCann is busy would be an

growth in both large and small spa operations. But,

understatement. The spa and wellness expert,

with 35 years’ experience under her belt, we asked

who joined health and medical resort specialist

McCann, what drew you to Lanserhof?

Lanserhof in February, has been working hard to

“The burdens on the NHS are so strong at the

cement the group’s name in the UK as it expands

moment. We’ve got to try to keep more people out

its portfolio. The spa-style medical institution is

of the healthcare system in order to move forward

based on the Lans Med concept of naturopathy

and I think the spa and wellness industry has a huge

and modern medicine and currently has three properties

responsibility towards preventative healthcare and

in Austria and Germany, with another opening in Sylt in

knowledge. We have to bring the two philosophies

Germany in 2020.

together,” she says.

Taking up the post as general manager of its two UK

“This is what impressed me about Lanserhof. It’s

sites, McCann has been spearheading change at renowned

hard to marry the wellbeing environment with the

surrey destination Grayshott Health Spa while also

preventative side of medicine but the group has

overseeing the launch of Lanserhof at The Arts Club – the

integrated this well into its resort offering and with

company’s first medical gym set within a private members’

good results.”

club in London, due to open next year.

Having previously worked as corporate director of spa

Moving with the times

for Hong Kong-based Shangri-La Hotels and general

One of McCann’s biggest responsibilities is

manager for Thailand wellness destination Chiva-Som,

overseeing the refurbishment and operational

McCann is no stranger to implementing change and driving

changes at Grayshott, a 50-year-old property the >

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Interview

48

understood what it was or what it could be. That’s why we’re looking at everything now. We want to find a balance between remaining relevant in the marketplace and having a nice, group bought in 2017 in partnership with investment group London and Regional

comfortable, functioning property that helps people.”

One of the biggest focuses for McCann is getting the

Properties. With 59 bedrooms and 36 treatment

property Care Quality Commission (CQC) registration so the

rooms, the destination spa is known for offering

spa can offer more medical services: “such as a wider range

a wide range of programmes

of blood testing, infusion therapies –

for cleansing, weight loss

although not a registerable service, a safer

and regeneration after injury. Despite this stellar reputation, the location was in need of new leadership.

“When I came here, what I found was a slightly confused positioning and a lot of need for investment, some of which we’ve done and some we are weighing up – whether it needs a

The burdens on the NHS are so strong at the moment. I think the spa and wellness industry has a huge responsibility towards preventative healthcare and knowledge

subtle rejuvenation or a full-scale refurbishment,”

approach – and the ability to give advice beyond nutritional recommendation.” She adds, “This can be important where guests come in with complex pre-existing conditions. It can be good for managing risk and giving more detailed lifestyle information.”

New procedures McCann is hoping to gain certification by the end of January but admits the transition has been challenging, especially as it has involved setting up a lot of

explains McCann. She is no stranger to the

systems and procedures to the standard you would expect

Grayshott property, having worked for the

within an NHS operation.

founding family back in the ’90s as spa and

“There are a lot of training elements. For example, you need a

leisure manager. “Back then, the essence of why

lead nurse for infection control, another for record keeping, and

the business was created and the therapeutic

so on. It’s about getting familiar with the cultural, organisational

approach was prevalent in everything we did.

approach from a medical perspective and marrying that

However, the interim owners – between the

together with what we do at Grayshott,” she says. “I’m working

founding family and Lanserhof – took

hard to get the organisational

the destination in a different direction

culture right. I’ve set up a forum

and I’m not sure they completely

for multidisciplinary teams where everyone understands their place and contribution.” The end goal?

“To have the strongest medical wellness offering in the UK”.

The other property under McCann’s remit is a new urban health centre in the heart of London, due to open on May 2, >

Clockwise from left: Interior shot of Grayshott Health Spa, the spa pool, dining area, countryside grounds

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2019. Lanserhof has teamed up with private members’ venue The Arts Club on Dover Street to open what McCann says will be the UK’s first medical gym in which members will undergo a series of functional diagnostic tests upon joining, including an MRI scan, to create an accurate body-composition analysis.

KEY DATES 1977 McCann joins Miralinder, Toronto, as day spa manager 1991 Takes up post as spa and leisure manager at Grayshott Health Spa 1998 Makes the move to spa director at Whitbread 2004 Becomes director of spa at Spa Botanica, Sentosa Resort and Spa, Singapore

This set-up is designed to give a clear picture of clients’ health and fitness, including

growing UK population of guests who visit

joint function and muscle balance, allowing

the resorts in Germany and Austria but can

the in-house medical team to create bespoke

now ‘top up’ in London between their annual

training programmes that will enhance the

resort visit,” she says.

individual’s mobility and agreed goals. “At the

However, McCann admits partnering with

helm will be medical director Dr Sebastian

The Arts Club has also been beneficial as it

Kunz, a specialist in orthopaedics and trauma

has given the group access to an existing

surgery, and he’s got very high-level care

population of people who want something

experience. He is very much on the injury-

as “distinctive” as what Lanserhof is offering

prevention side, which is a big part of

overseas. Calling them a clientele of “super

Lanserhof’s ethos,” explains McCann.

achievers” – people who excel in one aspect

This smaller, more accessible site is a new

of life – McCann says “adding spa, massage,

route for the group. Lanserhof does have an

wellness and physiotherapy elements to this

existing medical day spa, Lans Medicum, in

exercise offering will guide people on a

Hamburg, but its core offering is larger

different level of fitness engagement and

resorts. McCann explains that this more

get the results they want”.

accessible non-residential model presents a huge opportunity. “What you’re now seeing is

Striking a balance

the ability for Lanserhof to look after a

It’s an exciting time for the Lanserhof group and McCann feels at home driving its vision forward. “I’ve worked for big companies that

2007 Joins Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts as corporate director of spa – brand quality

are very good at developing systems – like Shangri-La, where I helped them replicate certain aspects and functions so they could open 20 new hotels – as well as small independent companies, like Chiva-Som, but

2012 Takes on the role of general manager for Chiva-Som International Health Resorts

I’m finding I prefer the latter,” she explains.

“Smaller properties don’t have that ‘paralysis by analysis’ that big corporate companies have, so they can be more nimble in the marketplace. Lanserhof is interesting because it is in that sweet spot between the

2018 Appointed general manager for Lanserhof’s two UK sites, Grayshott Health Spa and Lanserhof at The Arts Club

two; it has established systems and a strong brand identity, but is willing to try new things and can be flexible. I’m hoping at Clockwide from top left: gym and corridor inside Lanserhof at The Arts Club, McCann receiving the Leading Woman in Wellness Award at the Global Wellness Summit 2018

Grayshott and Lanserhof at The Arts Club clients will embody, learn and engage with a new lifestyle.” PB

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26/09/2018 11:14

Operations

52

Should

children

BE IN SALONS? Is the salon or spa an appropriate environment for a child, or should these havens of relaxation be kid-free zones? FIONA VLEMMIKS investigates

A

wave of beauty businesses have recently banned children outright, with many hitting the headlines. Hair and beauty salon Shine in Southsea, for example, got extensive coverage for its statement that said “Recently we have had a lot of clients bringing children in and letting them run wild, drawing on walls and windowsills, screaming and shouting and breaking things. For clients who come to us to relax, it is not a very nice experience….So, as of now we will be operating a no-child policy”.

As parents juggle increasingly hectic schedules, many bring young children along to beauty or spa appointments due to lack of childcare.

However, many of the venues that have barred youngsters say they were forced to do so.

Camilla Thompson, owner of the thriving Camilla Rose salon in Chester, made the decision to ban children from her salon six months into operation. Established now for three years and about to expand into larger premises, Thompson says her rule impacted trade in a positive way.

Close attention “We made the decision after several awkward encounters,” she explains. “One of many examples was when my colleague, Jen McCrindle, was doing an HD Brows treatment.

“The client brought her baby along and wanted the child to sit on her knee during the treatment. Jen explained it wasn’t appropriate

so the child was placed in her pram but screamed throughout the appointment. The client spent the whole time rocking the pram and then an hour after the appointment we got a text from the client, saying: ‘I’ve just got home and my eyebrows are awful, one is higher than the other’.

“As a mum of four, Jen found the child’s distress upsetting and therefore rushed the treatment, so we had to give a refund.”

Thompson also had equipment, including an expensive nail lamp, broken by children.

Furthermore, she says, many parents would try to pacify children with food, leading to a less than clinical environment. “Sometimes coming here is the one peaceful hour clients get in a week,” explains Thompson.

“We also have clients who have very personal things going on at home and because of the nature of what we do, they open up to us. It’s difficult to have those conversations when you’ve got someone else’s child running around.”

Thompson informed her clients of the new policy and relayed the message on new treatment menus. In her automated appointment reminder, sent to each client, part of the text message also reads “we do not allow children”. Customers have been surprisingly supportive.

“It’s been a bit like a ‘no children at weddings’ policy,” she says. “Parents themselves actually like that they can’t

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Instagram/@minimadamsspa

Operations

53

bring their kids now and say things like ‘it’s the first time this week I’ve managed to have a hot cup of coffee’. So far, I’ve only a few people who haven’t been happy.”

The salon is open six days a week with three late nights in a bid to accommodate everyone, especially parents. “I’m not trying to make things difficult and I understand that childcare is expensive and most people are juggling parenthood with full-time employment” states Thompson.

“So, there have been times when we’ve fitted clients in around their childcare and therapists have stayed until 9.30pm. We’d rather do this to ensure a peaceful, calm, clean salon.”

Clever solution While children running riot is problematic, it’s no secret that girls are becoming interested in beauty at a younger age. This has inspired what could be one solution to the kids in salons debate – a new type of beauty business aimed specifically at children.

Nicola Byrne, co-owner of successful Liverpool salon chain Urban Calm, says she identified a market opportunity for a high-end kids salon around five years ago, together with her business partner Sharon Doyle.

Byrne said she realised Liverpool needed a place where children could have treatments but mums could also socialise, have a coffee and a treatment with an area for toddlers to play and be safe. Mini Madams opened in April this year and now has clients travelling

from as far as Scotland. It offers pamper parties for kids and teens, a day spa menu including Mummy and Me packages, a café and play area. Sometimes there are special activity sessions where children can be left while Mum has a treatment.

As well as using age-appropriate, safe products and magic-themed décor, there is also a focus on inner beauty. “We have inspirational messages featuring in Mini Madams around kindness, confidence, empowerment and friendship,” says Byrne.

“We have a catwalk and, for parties, we ask the children to stand on it and say what they love about the birthday girl or their mummy.

It’s about building their confidence and encouraging them to be kind to each other.

We also do a bit of meditation when the kids’ facemasks are on and we’re looking at introducing mindfulness classes.”

Treating teens While Child’s Farm organic products and non-toxic Piggy Paint polish is used on younger children, and applied by party hosts, older children are introduced to proper salon treatments with qualified therapists.

“We have a package called Teen To Queen, for children aged 11 or over, who might be experiencing breakouts. On them, we use Dermalogica’s Clear Start in our skin bar,” says Byrne. “With young children it’s about entertaining them. Older kids want their polish to stay on and we educate them on the safe skin products to use.”

Just as the Urban Calm venues have attracted celebrity clients, Mini Madams pampers the children of footballers and other celebs. The salon now has 10,000 Instagram followers and Byrne says she intends to use this local influence to do good.

“I’m well aware of the pressure young girls are under to look perfect, and we now have quite a good platform to discuss these issues and set positive examples,” she says. PB

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Sleep Treatments

54

Sleep

easy

A treatment to help clients improve their sleep on a long-term basis is sure to prove a popular addition to your menu, discovers Georgia Seago

S

leep is no longer something we simply do without thinking; the wellness movement has turned it into a practice to be analysed, aided and, ultimately, improved. Recent figures from analyst The NPD Group showed a 74% year-onyear increase in sales of night-only skincare in the 12 months to the end of September 2018, driven by “self-care” trends, as consumers purposefully carve out time to address their wellbeing.

As well as retailing products specifically designed to support clients’ skin while they sleep, salons and spas can offer the perfect environment to help customers on their way to healthier rest. A few adjustments should be made to treatment rooms before carrying out sleep treatments. “The optimal room temperature for a good night’s sleep is 16ºC so we aim to keep it around this temperature,” says Andrea Polly, senior therapist at Slieve Donard Resort and Spa in County Down, winner of PB’s Northern Ireland Spa of the Year 2018 (see page 75). “We also give clients a choice of lighting colours and music to aid with relaxation and adjust the bed to suit their comfort.”

Sleep treatments are also approached in a slightly different way at PB-Award-winning The Spa Hotel at Ribby Hall Village, Lancashire, where Neom’s Sleep Treatment is on the menu. “The therapist shows the client how to prepare for a great night’s sleep with progressive relaxation techniques like mindfulness

meditation,” says spa duty supervisor Emma Nutter.

Variations on meditation, such as breathing and visualisation techniques, can also be incredibly effective in helping clients relax.

Scents of rest “In our Sleep Ritual, we use a technique called polarity balance to ground the therapist and client before the treatment, allowing physical and emotional stress to leave the body,” says Polly. When choosing products and scents, aromatherapy lends itself perfectly to sleep treatments. Get clients to choose from a selection of calming and soothing aromatherapy oils, letting the body guide them to what it needs – “usually oils that contain frankincense, myrrh, lavender, sandalwood or rose geranium”, advises Polly. She uses long, stroking movements “such as linears and effleurage” during sleep treatments, and recommends hot stones to help the muscles relax quicker and swiftly bring about a feeling of serenity in the body.

Post-treatment, give clients practical advice about how their experience can have a lasting effect. “We advise clients to incorporate the following into their bedtime routines,” says Nutter. “Remove electrical items from your bedroom including clocks and televisions and avoid high-intensity exercise two hours prior to bedtime.” Here are just a few of the many treatments that have been created to aid sleep.

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55 Sleep Treatments

Aromatherapy Associates We De-Stress Ideal for clients who have trouble switching off before sleep, this deeply relaxing massage focuses on the back, legs, scalp, neck and shoulders to relieve physical aches that could be contributing to an overactive mind. Clients can choose from two blends: De-Stress Mind, with frankincense, petitgrain, wild camomile and rosemary; or De-Stress Muscle, a blend of black pepper, lavender and ginger.

Recommended price: £150 for 60 minutes 020 8569 7030 aromatherapyassociates.com

Neom Sleep Treatment Part of the brand’s Wellbeing series of spa treatments, this focused ritual incorporates meditation, shiatsu, cranio, Thai massage, trigger point and reflexology. It is designed to put clients in a blissful state, ready for a deep sleep. The treatment begins with a guided meditation and uses the Neom Scent to Sleep Tranquillity fragrance both in treatment and to scent the room.

Recommended price: £70 for 60 minutes, £95 for 90 minutes 01423 878810 neomorganics.com

Comfort Zone Tranquillity Pro-Sleep Massage This treatment works by stimulating the three most important sensorial pathways – olfactive, using a blend of cedarwood and sweet orange essential oils to ease the mind; tactile, brushing oil over the body with light pressure and rhythm to activate sensorial receptors that help to de-stress; and aural, playing bespoke music not dissimilar to a heartbeat to induce good-quality sleep.

Recommended price: £60 for 60 minutes 020 3301 0496 comfortzone.it/en

Voya Mindful Dreams Incorporating different massage techniques to decompress and relax the body and mind, this treatment is a full-body massage that uses Balinese and Hawaiian techniques of rhythmic, powerful and flowing movements. Products from Voya’s Tranquil line are chosen for their lavender and geranium essential oils, which can lead to a more comfortable and restful sleep.

Recommended price: £80 to £125 for 75 minutes, depending on location +353 71 91 61872 voya.ie/en

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08/10/2018 11:01

Salary Survey

57

Money talks

T

Our exclusive salary survey in partnership with the NBF and NHF reveals the average wages in beauty salons and tackles the challenges they propose for growth, writes Eve Oxberry

he industry-wide issue of recruiting and retaining great staff is being heavily impacted by salons’ pricing structures and the knock-on effect they have on the ability to pay competitive wages. With rising salon overheads, coupled with consumer expectation of low prices, presenting an ongoing challenge, some of the most successful salons are those that offer remuneration packages directly linked to therapists’ financial performance.

These are among the key findings of an exclusive wages survey carried by the newly launched National Beauty Federation (NBF) and sister association National Hairdressers’ Federation (NHF) in collaboration with Professional Beauty and sister title Hairdressers Journal.

The report surveyed 698 professionals, 73% of whom were salon owners and the remainder individual employees (13%), salon managers (7%), and self-employed or freelance practitioners (7%).

It found that beauty therapists starting out can expect to earn around £8 per hour, with the figure

rising to £10 after two years and up to £15 if they land a management position. Meanwhile, nail techs can expect to take home £10 an hour, salon receptionists earn, on average, £8 an hour, and apprentices £3.70.

MOST COMMONLY PAID NATIONAL WAGES Position

Most commonly paid wage

Apprentice

£3.70

Beauty therapist (less than 2 years’ experience)

£8 to £8.75

Beauty therapist (more than 2 years’ experience)

£8 to £10

Nail technician

£10

Receptionist

£8

Manager

£10 to £15

The survey confirmed that most people working in beauty, hairdressing or barbering are earning wages close to the National Minimum Wage or National Living Wage, with >

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Salary Survey

58 only experienced staff earning more. This was true across the UK, although wages were a little higher in central London, where a therapist with two years’ experience earns, on average, between £9.31 and £11.31.

Salon owners recognised that low wages were making it difficult to recruit and retain good staff, but commented that they were often unable to pay more because their costs (including wages) are rising, competition is increasing, and they are afraid to lose clients by upping prices.

One respondent commented: “If we put up charges we lose customers, which then results in a reduction in hours or redundancies. Pressure comes on the business through increased business rates, and higher utility charges, minimum wage and pension costs.”

NHF coach Simon Harris commented: “So many salons are frightened of increasing prices, but in reality clients will generally not find price a barrier. If salons are charging less than the equivalent rate of £60 per hour, then their margins will decrease to the point where the business is not viable.”

A matter of income Turnover increased last year for the majority of beauty salons (54%), with the sector outperforming hair-only salons, where 45% reported turnover increase. The largest beauty salons, with five or more treatment rooms, were more likely to have recorded growth than any other group.

Most salons reported that in the past year wages had gone up a little, in line with inflation. The salons where wages had not increased were more likely to be the ones who had seen turnover go down. The results were similar for all salons, whether they offered hairdressing, barbering, beauty, nail services or aesthetics. Although the number of employees taking part was much smaller than the number of salon owners, they were more likely to report that wages had stayed the same.

mean wages are simply keeping pace with increases to the cost of living rather than giving a rise in real terms. Salons across the UK are reporting difficulties in recruiting and retaining qualified and experienced staff [but most] are earning close to the minimum wage. Yet, there are other employers from different sectors out there who would happily take on a stylist or therapist with good communication skills – but not make use of their skills and training.”

Job satisfaction Of course, it’s not all about the money, and both employers and employees said the number-one thing that made them happy at work was “making clients feel good”.

The top five factors for salon owners/ managers are: 1. Making clients feel good 2. Working in or running a great business 3. Working with other team members 4. Using my skills and training 5. Earning good money.

WAGES IN 2018 What happened to wages over the last year

Salon owners

Employees

Went down

5%

6%

Stayed the same

17%

51%

Went up a little in line with inflation

43%

36%

Went up higher than inflation

30%

8%

Went up well above inflation

5%

0%

When it came to the outlook for next year, salon owners were slightly less positive. While a similar number (77%) said they intend to increase wages in some capacity, only 3% said that would be “well above”, 21% higher and 53% in line with inflation.

Hilary Hall, NHF and NBF chief executive, commented: “We have to recognise that wage rises in line with inflation

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For employees, this changes slightly to: 1. Making clients feel good 2. Working with other team members 3. Using my skills and training 4. Feeling appreciated 5. Being really busy.

• Percentage of anything earned above a set target (50%) • Paying a percentage of service and retail takings (25%) • Percentage of retail sales only (23%) • Christmas bonus (23%)

There were slight differences between professions, with people working in beauty salons placing more importance on earning good money and feeling appreciated than people working in hair salons, and hair professionals placing more emphasis on feeling busy.

However, while most respondents seemed passionate about the industry, there was an overwhelming dissatisfaction with wages, particularly from those working in the beauty and nail sectors, with many questioning the viability of continuing their careers in the sector.

One respondent commented: “Nail industry wages are staggeringly low. We spend thousands of pounds to train and are then expected to work for minimum wage”, while another said: “I am leaving beauty therapy as after 10 years’ experience as a Level 3 therapist with extra training in treatments and products, I still receive minimum wage.”

Bonuses were slightly more likely to be paid in salons offering beauty, nail or aesthetic treatments (81% compared to 75% for hair salons).

Coming up with an effective wages and commission structure is a struggle for salon owners. One respondent commented: “I don’t know if I’m paying too much...I’m doing step increases in salary nearly every quarter plus giving 10% commission of every single retail sale and of course treatments.”

NBF ambassador Hellen Ward commented: “Commission rates and salary structures are the most common questions I get from salon owners. It’s critical to ensure employees have an incentive to perform and it needn’t be complicated.”

Experts agreed that sustainable, performancerelated salary structures were the strongest root to staff retention and business success in the sector. NHF business coach Steve Hilliard said, “I spend a lot of my time as a coach helping salon owners get past their fears and limiting beliefs by implementing a simple, win-win pay rise system. Staff can earn pay rises on merit and at the same time, salon profits grow as well.” PB

Bonuses and commissions More than three quarters (77%) pay bonuses or commissions. Those that don’t were often smaller salons operating below the VAT threshold (£85,000). There’s a huge variety of bonuses and commission structures, but the most common were:

The survey was carried out by the NBF and NHF, which provide business training and one-to-one coaching support to beauty salons, covering topics such as: getting your prices right, five steps to profit, salaries, bonuses and commissions, motivating your team, and growing your retail sales. For more information, visit nhf.info/nbf

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Professional Beauty North 2018

60

LOOK North

T

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NORTH 2018 showcased the greatest innovations in beauty, bringing together top-level visitors to try, buy and network. Here are the highlights…

his year’s Professional Beauty North was a roaring success, with visitors and exhibitors alike praising the show for its education, diversity and wide product offering. Some 14,792* visitors flocked to the show on October 21-22, a marked increase on last year, to buy products from 600 brands, watch the latest treatment demos and put their Christmas orders in early.

Many key exhibitors commented that there were a lot more serious buyers in attendance, and that they opened a huge number of new accounts. James Gammage, head of sales and marketing at Crystal Clear, commented: “We’ve seen lots of new business walk through the door. Having dialect with these customers means we’ve picked up lots of quality leads. The North really is a booming area for beauty.”

Elemis’s area manager for the North West, Helen Roycroft, also reported strong sales – “the show is a brilliant way to meet existing business to show them what’s new and to meet with new customers to work with in 2019,” she said, while Louella Belle director Jamie Crook said his team had “made lots of new leads and sold tons of training courses”.

Georgie Smedley, managing director of Nail Harmony, said her stand was buzzing: “The footfall was really good. We’ve had a really lovely bunch of quality customers come to the stand.” Meanwhile, Phillip Marsh, director of The Eyelash Company, said the show gave the brand the chance to further cement its client relationships: “We’ve been able to catch up with our loyal customers who always come to the show and talk them through the new things we’re doing”.

BREAKING NEW GROUND The enhanced spa zone was well received by exhibitors too, with the likes of Image Skincare, Sothys, Eye Taylor and

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Professional Beauty North 2018

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Janssen Cosmetics all taking bespoke stands. Chris Gillam, managing director of Mary Cohr UK, which also exhibited in the new zone, said: “The bespoke stand worked really well for us and if we get just one or two new customers out of the event then it’s a very cost-effective exercise.

Although Manchester is officially the third biggest city in the UK, I think in reality it’s the second, which is why it’s important to be here.”

Krestyna Batty, international educator for Janssen Cosmetics, added: “It’s been the best show we’ve ever had. We got so many new accounts and it’s because the quality of people has been incredible.” Aromatherapy Associates also exhibited in this area and reported making strong contacts and getting good business leads with salons and spas in the North.

had very knowledgeable customers and we’ve had really qualified leads come through.”

In response to feedback from visitors, the amount of business content was doubled at the show this year, with five live stages running across both days. Delegates were particularly impressed to see the diversity of the beauty industry represented in the education programme – including make-up and gender fluidity on the Warpaint Stage.

Transgender blogger Sarah Burrows said: “Thank you for staging the show Professional Beauty. Being transgender, I was never judged and every stand welcomed me. This is why I love the beauty industry.”

As well as the quality of the content on the live stages, visitors enjoyed the ease of seeing and comparing the best brands under one roof, including big names CACI, Elemis and the International Institute for Anti-Ageing (IIAA).

This made their buying decisions effortless and enjoyable, as Daniel Mathews, owner of beauty salon Vanity Case in Crewe, explained.

“The show gives you a good insight into the trends coming up in the industry. I come every year to see what’s new. It’s fascinating and a great chance to meet old and new friends, as well as stock up on new products” he said. >

It’s fascinating, innovative and a great chance to meet old and new friends, as well as stock up on new products for the salon

NORTHERN HIGHLIGHTS Meanwhile, first-time exhibitors said the show exceeded their expectations, with many planning to come back in 2019. Irina Kuzina, national manager UK for Nilo Spa Design, got 200 quality leads across the two days. “We never could have imagined how much quality is in the beauty world in Manchester.

The Professional Beauty team really looked after us. We will 100% be back next year,” she said.

Other new additions also helped draw in the crowds, including major skincare brand QMS Medicosmetics. Marketing director Tejal Agrawal was very pleased with the result: “As a brand trying to gain coverage in the UK, we needed to exhibit. PB North

*Awaiting ABC audit

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Professional Beauty North 2018

62

NEW FOR NETWORKING The first Salon & Spa Networking Lunch took place on the Sunday of the show and brought together more than 50 industry professionals from across the UK, the majority of whom were salon and spa owners and managers.

In a series of intimate round-table discussions, delegates met to uncover the biggest challenges in the market and share the solutions that have worked for them. Topics under discussion included retailing, recruitment, financial management and marketing for client retention.

Attendee Lesley Caster, owner of City Retreat in Newcastle, said, “I think it’s great to be able to get together with other salon owners and managers and look at the common problems that we all share but usually have to face alone. It’s nice to get around a table to share ideas and help each other.”

Jenny Dunville, owner of Alexsa Beauty and Holistic Studio in Nottingham, added, “The first networking lunch was the primary reason we attended the show and it did not disappoint. It was so beneficial mixing

with other businesses owners and I came home buzzing with new ideas.”

SHOW AND TELL With double the amount of business advice on offer this year, the education programme at Professional Beauty North delivered lively debate and helpful solutions to all kinds of salon problems. 54 speakers shared their knowledge in five action-packed Live Stages and one closed group seminar programme.

The most popular talks were on the Business Skills stages. Many visitors gathered to hear Charli Jepson, salon manager at Hello Gorgeous and educator for distributor Nail Harmony, discuss the challenges of competing with value nail salons.

As a big industry name, Karen Betts, founder of HD Brows and Nouveau Beauty Group, naturally drew a crowd, with many wanting to know the secret to her success.

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Professional Beauty North 2018

63

The Professional Beauty Live Stage was applauded for its vast array of demos, giving visitors an insight into the latest brow, make-up, nail and tanning trends. MUA Mimi Lomax’s session on delivering Instagramperfect bridal make-up drew a crowd, while nail tech Kirsty Meakin took many questions about how to create a popular online nail art tutorial.

On the Advanced Treatments Stage, aesthetic therapists learned how to integrate LED light therapy into facials, while advanced aesthetician Gemma Halil shared the skincare and treatment trends set to shake up the industry.

It was so beneficial mixing with other businesses owners and I came home buzzing with new ideas

SAGE ADVICE The Warpaint Stage gave MUAs practical advice on everything from on-set etiquette to the best ethical glitters, while things got personal in the Intimate Treatments Seminar, with waxers from across the UK listening to Sam Marshall, owner of The Beauty Guru, tackle common wax troubleshooting issues.

Meanwhile, lecturers debated the core issues facing colleges in the Education Forum, including attracting more students to the industry. Plus, new for this year and well-received were the Business Workshops in association with Salon Business Secrets, in which visitors left with a business action plan. PB

SAVE THE DATE

Professional Beauty North will return on October 13–14, 2019, at new venue EventCity

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North Lash Championships 2018

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NextBIG THING

N

ine talented lash artists boosted their profiles and took home awards at Professional Beauty’s first-ever North Lash Championships.

The two-day competition, which took place at PB North on October 21–22, saw artists put their skills to the test in three extension styles – Classic, Russian 3D Volume and New Volume – and each category

UK lash artists battled it out to be named the best in the business at PB’s first-ever North Lash Championships.

Find out who took home the trophies

had different divisions (Novice, Professional, and Expert) so amateur and seasoned pros alike could take part.

Winners were presented with trophies and gained industry recognition from their peers, while second and third place were awarded certificates. This year’s standout competitor was Kit Mcall, who came top in the expert divisions for the Russian 3D and New Volume categories. PB

Classic

New Volume

Russian 3D Volume

NOVICE DIVISION: Winner: Natalie Barton-Phillips

NOVICE DIVISION: First: Natalia Osinska (pictured) Second: Rebecca Collyer Third: Dominique Stanner

NOVICE DIVISION: Winner: Inese Liepina

PROFESSIONAL DIVISION: Winner: Natalie Vo

EXPERT DIVISION: First: Megan Thomas (pictured) Second: Andrea Pickford Third: Lindsay Chambers

PROFESSIONAL DIVISION: First: Megan Jordan (pictured) Second: SarahAnne Barham Third: Natalie Vo

PROFESSIONAL DIVISION: Winner: Antonia Derkats

EXPERT DIVISION: Winner: Kit Mcall

EXPERT DIVISION: Winner: Kit Mcall

THANKS TO OUR JUDGES A huge thank you to our judges (left to right): Zachary Falb, Novalash global master trainer; Inese Stepanova, London Lash Pro trainer; Natalie Gibson, head of training for Kalentin Lashes; Ilaria Marrazzo, Angel Lash & Brow Academy trainer; and Heather Hughes, PB’s Lash Championships director.

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LET US HELP YOU FIND YOUR PERFECT PARTNER INDIA Bengaluru Kolkata Delhi Mumbai IRELAND Dublin

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17 - 18 February 2019

UK London Manchester

24 - 25 February 2019 13 - 14 October 2019

Contact: Steve James T: + 44 (0) 20 7351 0536 E: steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk

www.professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Pro Artist Winner: Vanessa Perry

Warpaint North Make-up Championships

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Make-up MASTERS

College Cup Sponsored by: Winner: Bradford College

Professional Beauty North played host to the WARPAINT NORTH MAKE-UP CHAMPIONSHIPS 2018.

See who came out on top

B

Rising Star Winner: Ellie Gribble, Bradford College

ig-name MUAs and amateur artists alike battled it out to take home top prizes at the Warpaint North Make-up Championships 2018.

The one-day competition, which took place at Professional Beauty North on October 22, saw competitors go head to head in four categories, with judges examining how well they interpreted the theme, applied product, and showed off different techniques and originality.

There were student and professional divisions in each category other than Real Beauty, which was a student-only category this year. PB

Runway Pro Theme: Flora and Fauna First: Vanessa Perry Second: Sanita Liepina Third: Ruth Moulden Highly Commended: Kerry Astill

Runway Student Theme: Flora and Fauna First: Monta Jekabsone, Melvic Academy Second: Bethan Neal, Preston’s College Third: Leanne Charlston, Bradford College

Film & TV Pro Theme: Christmas Movies Winner: Francesca Taylor

Film & TV Student Theme: Christmas Movies First: Ellie Gribble, Bradford College Second: Ashleigh Morris, Bradford College Third: Jade Humberstone, Bradford College

Bodypainting Pro Theme: The Four Elements – Earth, Wind, Fire and Water First: Katy Groves Second: Helen Miles Third: Michelle Gray

Real Beauty Student Theme: Classic Beauty Icons

THANKS TO OUR EXPERT JUDGES: Armand Beasley, Emma Cammack, Isobel Harre, Yasmin Heinz, Maria Malone-Guerbaa, Mike Peel, Joanna Peters, Jennie Robert and Hannah Wing

Sponsored by:

Bodypainting Student Theme: The Four Elements First: Abigail Howat, Bradford College Second: Aoife Singleton, Crumlin College Third: Lauren Taylor, Bradford College

First: Stacey-Leanne Clarke, Bradford College Second: Mia Breeze, Manchester College Third: Lucy Lancaster, Manchester College

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67 North Nail Championships 2018

BRUSH WITH

greatness

Top nail talent was on show at the NORTH NAIL CHAMPIONSHIPS 2018, with some of the finest pros and promising industry newcomers taking part

T

op techs from the UK and beyond battled it out with their brushes and buffers over two days at Professional Beauty North to place in the North Nail Championships 2018. Lucy Price, Katarzyna Kruszynska and Zsuzsanna Fecsik all took home multiple trophies each, putting their names firmly on the competition circuit map. PB

International Manicurist of the Year Lucy Price

Permanent Polish First: Lucy Price Second: Jiak Hing Third: Monika Wojtachnio

International Nail Master Zsuzsanna Fecsik

Salon Nail First: Paulina Zdrada Second: Hayley Dawson Third: Raluca Nistorescu One Stroke Boxed First: Anna Zawadzinska Second: Adriana Onofrei Third: Martyna Bryzek Nail Starters Permanent Polish First: Alena Istomina Second: Michelle Horton Third: Emma Glover

Photographic Nail Art First: Scarlett Senter Second: Gail Nicholls Third: Diana Sirvydyte Voters' choice: Lorna Andrews

Spa Manicure First: Lucy Price Second: Fatemeh Parhiz

Pink & White Competition Style First: Katarzyna Kruszynska Second: Anna Zawadzinska Third: Zsuzsanna Fecsik

Showcase Nail Art First: Natsuko Takanishi Second: Katarzyna Kruszynska Third: Sarah Kay Abbott

Nail Masters First: Andreea Simona Ignat Second: Kirsty McDonough Third: Zsuzsanna Fecsik

THANKS TO OUR EXPERT JUDGES A big thank you to competition director Denise Wright and the judges: Katie Barnes, Michelle Brookes, Caroline Carrick, Hazel Dixon, Nicola Harrison, Linda Hill, Fereida Lydiate, Kirsty Meakin, Jacqui O'Sullivan, Sean O'Sullivan and Jo Whittle.

Nail Starters Student Manicure First: Michelle Horton Second: Sue Hayes Third: Christina Savage Dip System First: Patrycja Gralak Second: Katarzyna Kruszynska Third: Kirsty McDonough professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Promotional Feature

68

DEAL or no

deal

Having watertight contracts is essential to the success of your salon. Here’s how The National Beauty Federation (NBF) can help

I

“

t’s not the most glamorous of subjects but if you don’t gain a basic understanding of the

Find out more about employee rights and your responsibilities under GDPR: nhf.info/employeerights

importance of contracts you may be faced with some very unglamorous legal action,” says NBF chief executive Hilary Hall.

Zero hours, zero rights?

Employees and space/room renters “As soon as someone accepts your job offer a contract is created – it doesn’t have to be in writing,” explains Hall. “But it’s always best practice to have a written contract. This should cover details (called ‘terms’) such as the main conditions of their employment (for example, hours of work and pay), their rights, responsibilities, and duties.”

It is a legal requirement to give employees a “written statement of employment” within two months of their start date. Providing a contract of employment setting out the required information will ensure that you comply with this.

“If you have space or room renters in your salon, having legally watertight agreements in place is also vital. This will ensure you are both clear about your rights and responsibilities and could avoid expensive legal action in the future,” says Hall.

NBF members can download free beauty apprenticeship agreements, employee contracts and staff handbooks at nhf.info/contracts Free space/room-renting agreements are also available: nhf.info/agreements

Employee rights Don’t forget – your new employee will have rights from day one of their employment.

“They will begin to accrue annual leave straight away, must be paid the National Minimum Wage and will also be entitled to the same rest breaks as every other employee in your salon,” says Hall.

Bear in mind that part-time and fixed-term workers must be treated in the same way as a full-time or permanent employee, says Hall.

“Also - don’t make the common mistake of thinking that zero hours means zero rights. For example, in most cases, zero-hour workers will be entitled to the National Minimum Wage and paid annual leave.”

Overtime “You can only make an employee work overtime if their contract allows this,” says Hall. “You don’t have to pay an employee for overtime, but their average pay for all the hours they have worked must not dip below the National Minimum Wage.”

Benefits for NBF members include access to a free 24/7 employment helpline. Find out more at nhf.info/ legalbeauty

The NBF For less than 75p a day, the NBF will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us! The NBF is the sister trade association of the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF). Find out more at nhf.info/nbf Join the NBF before the end of December 2018 and quote PBD25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965

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2018 Launches

69

CLEAN SWEEP Vegan beauty was booming this year as customers became more conscious of their choices, opting for products free from animal byproducts. British skincare brand Elemis was ahead of the game, launching its vegan pre- and pro-biotic Superfood Skincare System at Professional Beauty London in February.

The plant-based and nutrient-dense range features an oil-gel technology Facial Wash, nourishing Facial Oil, Pre-Biotic Day Cream, made with the brand’s Supergreen Complex; and Superfood Grain Complex-infused Pre-Biotic Night Cream. Elemis will be adding a jam-gel textured Blackcurrant Jelly Exfoliator to the range next year.

Best beauty LAUNCHES OF 2018

The votes are in and we can now reveal the 20 product and treatment launches that you say defined the industry this year, helping therapists, nail techs and MUAs achieve phenomenal results in salon. Here’s what 2018 will be remembered for

ELECTRIC AVENUE With the at-home beauty product market continuing to grow, skincare brand Environ launched a smart device for salons to retail to clients. The Focus Care Skin Tech+ Electro-Sonic DF Mobile Skincare Device, for use in between appointments to boost treatment results, uses the same types of ultrasound as the brand’s professional-use machine, with sonophoresis increasing the absorption of skincare while iontophoresis enhances the skin’s permeability by passing a weak electrical current through it. The device is ideal for customers with anti-ageing concerns but can also get more distinctive results with rosacea- and acne-prone clients.

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70 2018 Launches

CRYSTAL HEALING With more studies this year confirming the link between aromatherapy and a reduction in stress and anxiety levels, the founders of Crystal Clear launched Quartz Spa to give salons and spas an affordable wellness option to add to their menu. The collection’s three signature blends – Happiness, Hope and Energise – combine aromatherapy oils with whole pieces of clear quartz crystals, known for their rebalancing properties, to soothe mind, body and soul. Products include a body wash, aromatherapy candle, mineral scrub, and bath and massage oil, and a menu of 14 treatments launched alongside the range, varying from a Detox Wrap to Jet Lag Reviver massages.

READY FOR THIS JELLY Generation Z changed the beauty landscape this year by demanding brands create results-driven products that are also fun to use. As a result, a whole host of new textures made their way into the industry, the biggest being jelly, and Katherine Daniels and Germaine De Capuccini were the first pro brands to deliver. Katherine Daniels Essential Miracle Cleansing Jelly applies as a jelly but changes to an oil when massaged with water, removing the most stubborn dirt and make-up, while the Germaine De Capuccini Sperience Green Tea Jelly massage medium provides better value for therapists than traditional oils, with one sachet lasting a whole treatment and only costing £3.72.

BEAUTY SLEEP Clever products that work to remove the signs of sleep deprivation on the skin were a big hit this year. Dermalogica was among the first to see the potential for salons and spas to help clients with this issue, launching gel-cream Sound Sleep Cocoon, which works overnight to aid the skin’s repair and recovery process.

It’s formulated with Persian silk tree extract to reduce the signs of fatigue and kakadum plum extract to brighten. Elemis also launched Peptide4 Night Recovery Cream-Oil this year, a product which works with the skin’s natural circadian rhythm to help it restore itself.

BUNDLE OF ENERGY 2018 was the year that plasma technology became more mainstream, with a range of professional brands launching machines for small and large salons.

Popular device manufacturer CACI worked Neon Plasma skin-tightening technology for facial rejuvenation into its Skinbreeze machine, delivering an electronically charged gas to the skin. Meanwhile, Accor’s NF+ Cosmetic Corrector was launched into the beauty market this year and was hailed for its ease of use – the pen only weighs 95g so practitioners can maintain a healthy posture during treatment.

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2018 Launches

71 BRIGHT IDEA This was the year vitamin C products were turbo-charged, using smart technologies and systems to deliver the ingredient in an even more effective way. Leading the pack was US cosmeceutical brand Image Skincare which added Hydrating Water Burst to its popular Vital C range, using advanced emulsion technology to deliver the benefits of vitamin C more deeply when rubbed into the skin.

Meanwhile, pro brand Exuviance’s AF 20% Vitamin C20 Serum Capsules encapsulate vitamin C in an advanced bio-degradable substance, keeping the serum’s potent ingredients stable, while AlumierMD’s EverActive C&E Serum has a different component for the vitamin C powder, keeping it separate from the serum until the moment of use so it remains super fresh.

BROWS ON FLEEK

FITNESS FEVER Treatments specially designed for gym-goers to help keep their skin and muscles in tip-top shape pre- and post-workout were popular, taking the athleisure skincare trend to another level. Spa brand Espa created the Strength and Resilience Massage to help fitness fanatics recharge quicker, using advanced techniques such as yogic stretches and rapid pressure to revive tired muscles. French skincare brand Sothys got in on the action too, unveiling pre-workout Smoothing/Warming Professional Treatment, which prepares clients for exercise, and post-workout Nutri-relaxing Remodelling deep-tissue massage, which prevents stiffness.

Although microblading has been popular for a couple of years, 2018 saw the service get an advanced makeover, with new training and techniques from highly respected brands coming to the fore. HD Brows entered the semi-permanent make-up market for the first time at Professional Beauty London, offering accounts the choice of two treatment options – an infill, where fine strokes of pigment are added to sparse areas, or the full brow treatment, where fuller coverage is given with shading and hair strokes.

Finishing Touches Group also launched its Bespoke Blading training, a five-day course that covers how to create natural-looking brows using the brand’s Nano Blade tool, giving those new to the industry an access to market and seasoned pros a new technique to try.

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK The wax market was shaken up this year with some innovative new pro brands making their mark. Ashmira Botanica launched at Professional Beauty London and was praised by experienced waxers for its shimmering purple strip and peelable waxes and skincareinspired pre- and post-wax care, including a Protective Face Cream, Comfort Balm and Replenishing Body Lotion. The other name on everyone’s lips was hair-removal brand Wax:one, which was developed and launched by Sweet Squared. The system gives smooth results while minimising the risk of ingrown hairs due to its low melting and working temperature.

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2018 Launches

72 COOL FOR THE SUMMER With the lash industry growing at an unprecedented rate, anything that can help make the extension application process for an artist run more smoothly is bound to go down well. As such, in-house and freelance lash artists were wowed by extension brand Novalash’s touchscreen device Aura. The humidity gauge allows techs to measure the temperature in their working environment so they can make sure it’s at the right Fahrenheit for proper curing of the lash adhesive. It also provides a moisture percentage and tracks the 24-hour average minimum and maximum temperature – pretty smart.

EXPRESS DELIVERY Gel-polish brand Candy Coat did something no other company in the sector has done before this year, launching a subscription box service exclusively for nail professionals. The pro boxes for salons and independent techs have gone down a treat and include six bottles of gel polish along with manicure tools and nail accessories every month, working on a pick ‘n’ mix concept. The brand has shades in 15 finishes, including rich glitters, colour change, confetti, marble, holographic and translucent.

ACCESSIBLE TECH Advanced laser hair-removal technology became accessible for salons on a smaller budget when 3D-lipo launched its 3D-Trilogy Ice at Professional Beauty London in February. The machine combines three wavelengths in a single handpiece to target different tissue depths and anatomical structures in the hair follicle. The single high-energy pulses gradually heat the dermis and damage the hair follicle via the Trilogy Ice In Motion protocol. This way the therapist can achieve full coverage of the contact cooling system to make the process as comfortable as possible for clients. Trilogy Ice offers low treatment costs and doesn’t require any consumables, making it an appealing option for salons looking to introduce more advanced treatments.

ON THE GRAPEVINE The only product to contain its patented Vinergy technology, Caudalie Premier Cru The Serum took five years to bring to market and was developed in partnership with Harvard Medical School genetics professors.

The serum helps restore the skin’s mitochondrial mass and energy production, supporting cells to defend themselves against ageing. Its ingredient combination, which includes grape-seed polyphenols, vine resveratrol and viniferine, and water-like texture makes the serum tolerable for sensitive skins despite its high concentration of the Vinergy complex.

PEEL OFF Murad made peels less scary for apprehensive clients when it launched its Technoceuticals Peels. While the peels use active ingredients such as retinol, the brand has created a luxurious ritual around the treatment, with touches such as facial massage elements and a closing ritual that involves wiping a warm towel over the back and massaging in Youth Builder Massage Cream.

These elevate a treatment known for its potential to cause slightly uncomfortable sensations to a nurturing and enjoyable experience, while the formulas themselves blend antioxidants and hydrators into the acids to promote skin health without irritation.

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ART ATTACK

BLURRED LINES This year marked a significant shift in consumer buying behaviour, with clients wanting a more gender-neutral approach to products and services. As such, Skin Regimen, a unisex skincare line founded by Comfort Zone, was a standout launch. The products help clients protect their skin against pollution and were developed for city dwellers of any age and gender, packaged in a neutral design to reflect this message. There are 10 items: Cleansing Cream, Microalgae Essence, 1.85 HA Booster, 10.0 Tulsi Booster, 1.5 Retinol Booster, 15.0 Vit C Booster, Tripeptide Crea, Urban Shield SPF 30, Lift Eye Cream and Night Detox.

NATURAL FINISH Given that it’s notoriously difficult to achieve truly natural-looking results with semi-permanent make-up (SPMU), K.B Pro worked hard on its reformulated pigments and advanced the field with the improved selection. The pigments are infused with flaxen to help the colours fade out naturally longterm without leaving any of the warmth residue that SPMU artists try so hard to avoid. Adjuster shade Boston was launched alongside the new line and can be used to lighten any of the mid-range colours. There are also clever shades specifically formulated to combat unwanted tones – like St Lucia, to tackle dark grey and blue hues.

TRUE TO FORM

Gelish aimed to give techs total artistic control of their designs with its Art Form Gel 2-D Technology. The one stroke nail art formula allows nail artists to create intricate artwork with no wrinkling, marbling or inhibition layer, to add a design finish to any soak-off gel polish or poly product manicure. The gels are packaged in no-tip packaging with a comfort grip, ensuring no spillages or product waste, and come with a custom brush wiper insert that helps to control product pick up for precise application. The 24 colours can be blended together to create bespoke shades.

2018 Launches

73

SLOW RELEASE Billed as the next generation of vitamin A, cosmeceutical skincare brand Medik8 impressed the industry when it launched its Crystal Retinal this year.

Packed with vitamin A derivative retinaldehyde, it works with the skin’s natural mechanisms to help enhance collagen production and encourage cellular turnover. The gel-cream-textured serum comes in two strengths and the brand claims it works faster than retinol at firming, plumping and resurfacing skin. Meanwhile, the patented timerelease delivery system stops the skin being overwhelmed – a solution for clients too sensitive to retinol but who would benefit from its results.

Created to allow a custom fit for every nail and versatility of length, Glitter Planet UK’s Revolution Nail Forms proved a huge hit with techs when they launched onto the market this year. Easy to get to grips with for both newbie techs and those who have been creating enhancements for years, the forms fit snugly around the finger while sitting flush to the side walls to create the all-important smooth, tight c-curve, and fit almost all shapes and sizes of nail bed.

Made from a super-strong, durable and sticky material, the forms also feature grid cutouts to give an extra helping hand.

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THE INTERNATIONAL MANUFACTURERS & DISTRIBUTORS FORUM 2019 24 - 25 February 2019 • ExCeL London

EXHIBITION | CONFERENCE | GLOBAL NETWORKING

EXPAND YOUR BUSINESS IN THE UK AND WORLDWIDE Build relationships with UK and International distributors and manufacturers.

The IMF has everything you need to grow your business: u 2 Day International Conference u IMF Delegate & Speaker Lounge u Distributors Networking Reception u Dedicated Matchmaking Service •

u International Exhibitor Pavilions u VIP Access to Professional Beauty

Questions: jack.r@professionalbeauty.co.uk T: +44 (0) 203 841 7371

Early bird delegate rates available until 1 January 2019 1 day pass £116 +VAT • 2 day pass £156 +VAT For more information and to book visit: www.imflondon.co.uk 7301 IMF19 masterA4.indd 1

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PB Regional Awards 2018

75

The

NATION’S

BEST

T

The winners of the Professional Beauty Regional Awards 2018 were crowned in Manchester in October. Find out which spas and salons were named the UK’s best

he Professional Beauty Regional Awards are now in their third year, and continue to shine a light on the amazing work that goes on in every corner of the UK, giving more businesses more opportunities to prove they outshine their local competition.

The awards are judged by a panel of experienced industry experts, who really understand what it takes to make a business work, so the winners and finalists are all

salons and spas that excel in treatment delivery, customer experience and industry innovation.

In total, 21 winners were announced at the black-tie gala dinner, which took place at the Principal Hotel Manchester on October 21. The spas and salons that won will now go through to the finals of the national Professional Beauty Awards 2019, held at The Brewery in London on February 24. Book your tickets at professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards

NORTH WEST SPA OF THE YEAR WINNER | The Spa Hotel at Ribby Hall Village, Lancashire Sponsored by:

Ribby Hall’s 122-strong team is dedicated to delivering an exceptional service, which is why the spa has taken home this award. With bespoke training plans and monthly treatments for employees, staff retention levels are at a healthy 98% and this culture of happiness has translated into all facets of the business. Treatments and aftercare advice were given top marks, while our judges commented that the consultations given were of an extremely high quality.

“It’s fantastic and overwhelming to win this award. Thank you to our staff and our owners, the Harrison family, who continually invest in people and facilities which is key to our success” Jane Tregonning, spa manager

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76 PB Regional Awards 2018

NORTH EAST SPA OF THE YEAR WINNER | Seaham Hall Serenity Spa, Co. Durham

Sponsored by:

“We won this last year as well and so to win it again is a special honour. I’d like to thank all our team; this award is for them. It’s a big team effort” Diane Nettleton, director

Seaham Hall Spa is set in 37 acres of landscaped gardens in a striking clifftop location. The spa’s recruitment strategy concentrates on personality, work ethic and pinpointing customer service-driven candidates, resulting in a highly skilled and motivated team. Judges commented that the spa had a true wow factor and created a feeling of total escape from the outside world, adding that attention to detail and customer service were both top notch.

SOUTH WEST & WALES SPA OF THE YEAR

“It feels really good to win this award. I’d like to say thank you to everyone at the spa and to our team; everyone right from the bottom up to the top.

All of their hard work has really paid off”

WINNER | Gaia Spa, Plymouth Gaia Spa was described as “magnificent” by judges, who also commended the “very attentive” staff. The 12-treatment-room spa scored top marks in several areas, with customer service, marketing, safety and hygiene just some of the standout features. The hotel and spa teams work together smoothly and efficiently to make guests feel as though they’ve been away longer then their stay, leaving them relaxed and recharged.

Sarah Thornton, head therapist

SOUTH EAST SPA OF THE YEAR “I’m so happy that Thai Square Spa has won London Spa of the Year.

There is such stiff competition within the capital, and for our spa, an authentic taste of Thailand, to be rewarded in this way, is truly special. My team and I are honoured” Wallika Clark, spa manager

WINNER | The Spa at Pennyhill Park, Bagshot Sponsored by:

With 21 treatment rooms and eight pools, Pennyhill Park has a reputation as one of the most extensive spas in the UK. This year, it’s developed by creating a concept called Life in Balance, which takes into account that some guests visit for wellbeing and health, whereas others visit for indulgence. Our judges described the winner as a well-designed, maintained and evolving spa, delivering excellent quality services.

LONDON SPA OF THE YEAR WINNER | Thai Square Spa Offering Eastern luxury in the heart of London, Thai Square Spa continues to evolve. This year, the business has introduced corporate membership, boosted sales through upselling initiatives and increased brand awareness by working with bloggers. Judges were particularly impressed with the ambiance at the spa and the attitude of the therapists, who focus on making each client feel valued from the moment they walk in.

“The team are overwhelmed with the win and it’s nice for them see that all we do is so worthwhile and their hard work is so well appreciated” Lucy Graham, head therapist

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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77 PB Regional Awards 2018

NORTHERN IRELAND SPA OF THE YEAR WINNER | The Spa at Slieve Donard,

Newcastle, County Down

“We’re massively overwhelmed to have won as there was lots of strong competition. I just want to thank the team – the most amazing team… this award is for them”

The Spa at Slieve Donard was awarded high marks across all sectors, with the judges commenting on the in-depth treatment consultation and comprehensive skin knowledge of the therapists, who they said are “trained above and beyond the treatments offered in the spa”.

The 15-treatment-room resort also offers an extensive range of nourishing food options from a juice bar to a sit-down meal in one of three restaurants.

Phil Murphy, director of leisure and spa

MIDLANDS SPA OF THE YEAR WINNER | Hoar Cross Hall, Burton-Upon-Trent Hoar Cross Hall has been open since 1991 and boasts an impressive 34 treatment rooms. The “immaculate grounds” were one of the elements that stood out the most for judges. Therapists were praised for executing fantastic-quality treatments in line with brand protocol.

Training for spa staff is high on the agenda, with employee qualification records and training plans kept up to date and frequently revisited to identify areas of improvement and progression needed by each staff member.

“We’d like to thank our fantastic team for the dedication they show our spa every single day. These awards are everything, it’s a huge achievement and I’m very proud” Cathryn O’Neill, spa manager

NORTHERN IRELAND SALON OF THE YEAR “The Professional Beauty Awards are the most respected in the industry, so this is the best award to win. We’re so honoured. We’ve got amazing people.

They deserve this”

WINNER | Urban Beauty and Skincare Centre,

Belfast All therapists are trained to expert level in this popular salon, which specialises in enhancing skin. In-house training is carried out once a month to ensure that high standards are maintained, in addition to regular external training and team-building events. Overall business practices impressed our judges, who said: “This is a very well-run salon where the owner is passionate about therapist progression.”

Kirsty MacCormick, director of spa

SCOTLAND SPA OF THE YEAR WINNER | Kohler Waters Spa at

The Old Course Hotel, St Andrews Judges awarded high marks for the 13-treatment-room spa’s slick operation, with the official awards visitor saying it was “exceptional – from the moment I entered until the moment I left”. The customer journey was noted as first-class, with a clear ethos – health through water – and vast range of facilities. Judges were particularly impressed with spa director Kirsty MacCormick, giving her leadership style 10 out of 10, adding: “she has a wealth of knowledge and it shows”.

“It’s an amazing feeling to win.

I would like to thank the girls who work for me and I’d also like to thank my family. We’re just a small salon in Northern Ireland and to get this is insane” Helen Alcorn-Hayes, owner

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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SOUTH WEST & WALES LARGE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | Hazelwood, Chippenham

“I’d like to thank all of the team, my mum, who is my baker, and my best friend, who has done all of our marketing, PR and events planning” Stefannie Larkman, owner

MIDLANDS LARGE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | The Little Retreat, Owthorpe

Sponsored by:

Described by our judges as a “hidden gem”, the Little Retreat was founded in 2013 and has gone from strength to strength.

The aim is to offer a comprehensive customer experience and the salon’s Gin Nail Parlour concept really differentiates the business. Other personal touches are evident throughout, such as tables reserved in the client’s name in the relaxation area and the serving of nutritious food.

Hazelwood moved to a new purpose-built salon in 2017 and has continued to grow the business since then with the support of independent experts such as a financial planner and a business coach. The team at the sixtreatment-room salon work hard to manage clients’ expectations with thorough consultations and treatment plans from the first visit. The PB judges commented that this salon was a real “industry leader”, due to its innovative approach and excellent customer service.

“It’s fabulous to have won this award. There has been such a lot of hard work which has come to fruition this year. These awards are massive, they help to keep you sharp, professional and above all else, striving to be the best” Samantha Francome, managing director

SOUTH WEST & WALES BOUTIQUE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | The Secret Spa, Wrexham

“We’re a small salon that a year ago didn’t exist - to win this award gives hope to any new business that anything is possible when you’ve got the passion for it”

From warmed slippers to home visits for treatments, personal delivery of products and flexible opening hours, the devil is in the detail at this boutique salon, where strong client relationships have been forged by staff going the extra mile. Our judges praised it as an outstanding salon with a strong emphasis on the client experience, and were particularly impressed with the highly motivated team who “perform at a consistently high level”.

Yassmina Denideni, salon manager

MIDLANDS BOUTIQUE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | nkd () Leicester, Leicestershire Judges were impressed with the “calming and relaxing” environment at nkd () Leicester, with high marks being awarded for comfort and enjoyment levels during the treatment, and relaxing décor, ambience and temperature. The judges commented on the friendliness of the staff who gift new clients with product samples to take away, as well as the “excellent” in-depth consultation given prior to the treatment.

“I think we have stayed constantly focused this year and strived for improvement because ultimately you know you want to win that trophy.

My staff are absolutely amazing, I couldn’t have done it without them” Rebecca Griffiths, owner

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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NORTH WEST BOUTIQUE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | Prestige Health and Beauty, Morecambe Prestige has focused on raising its profile online and these efforts have paid off, with judges impressed by the salon’s “effective marketing practices” – especially its fun and informative interaction with clients on social media.

The salon’s retail offering was also standout, with our official visitor awarding high marks for the range of facilities available – free face mapping, tasters and mini services, as well as the knowledgeable staff on hand.

“The things we’ve achieved in the last three and half years have had the most amazing impact. For any independent business that has survived for 17 years, as we have, this award is for them”

PB Regional Awards 2018

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Karen Shirlaw, owner

SOUTH EAST BOUTIQUE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | Beautique Medispa, Dorking Beautique Medispa was commended for its professional yet homely feel and friendly, welcoming team. Judges were particularly impressed with the dedicated salon manager and forward-thinking business owner, who have a focus on clear industry training and development, as well as providing “commitment to quality staffing and professionalism”. The high levels of customer service are reflected in the “no hard-sells’” policy, ensuring retail sales are a by-product of the expert advice offered to each client.

“These awards are important for the industry and for us to be recognised when we’re just a salon in a small town means everything. I want to thank my team and my husband, who have been so supportive” Kelly Murgatroyd, director

NORTH WEST LARGE SALON OF THE YEAR “We’re just a little salon and winning this award will give us greater opportunities. I would like to thank owner Rebecca Dunleavy – she has built such a fantastic business” Tammy Pettet, spa manager

SOUTH EAST LARGE SALON OF THE YEAR

WINNER | The Potting Shed Spa, Batley Sponsored by:

Known for its tongue-in-cheek approach and cheeky treatment names, The Potting Shed has a loyal regular clientele. New initiatives this year included the creation of an own-brand organic product line, which had a waiting list before launch, and the introduction of the “One Hot Beech” menopausal range of treatments. The PB Judges were particularly impressed with the way the Potting Shed team strived to exceed customers’ expectations and meet their individual needs.

WINNER | Red House Spa, Amersham

Sponsored by:

The beauty salon’s ethos to create a wellbeing space for locals and tourists alike set it apart from the competition, with judges wowed by the range of “high-quality” facilities, including a luxury yoga studio and outdoor relaxation area, as well as on-site specialists such as reflexologists. Judges also scored the salon well for its luxury interior design, stating it had a “very high standard of furniture and good retail displays, utilising the space perfectly”.

“It’s amazing to win; the best feeling ever. We’re so happy. I’d like to thank the team, my husband – absolutely everyone, including our dog!”

Sam Pearce, director

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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PB Regional Awards 2018

80 SCOTLAND BOUTIQUE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | Zen Lifestyle, Edinburgh “I never thought it would be us. I want to thank my family. It’s such a special award. I’d also like to thank my team - they’re fantastic” Elaine Beattie, owner

Innovation, training and staff loyalty were among the many things the awards judges praised about Zen Lifestyle. Since winning at the national Professional Beauty Awards in February, the salon has invested in new technologies to broaden its treatment menu and offer skin rejuvenation and thread vein treatments. Another key initiative has been the introduction of retail masterclass workshops, which prompted a huge increase in sales.

NORTH EAST BOUTIQUE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | All About You – Urban Beauty Retreat,

Newcastle-Upon-Tyne “I am so passionate about the beauty industry that to win this award is such a tremendous feeling. We have been winners in the past, but every award is special and I’m delighted and overwhelmed to be taking this back to the team”

Sponsored by:

The luxury boutique feel of All About You is in keeping with the salon’s mission to make the client feel relaxed and welcomed in an oasis of calm with high-quality treatments.

Judges picked up on owner Elaine Beattie’s spa background in the style and ambience of the salon. Open for just over a year at the time of judging, the salon has built up a strong database of clients, fuelled by successful marketing initiatives such as monthly events for corporate clients.

Fiona Fowley, director

SCOTLAND LARGE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | Peaches Wax Bar, Glasgow

“It’s really satisfying to win because we’ve been recognised for growing from a small salon to a large one, thanks to all the hard work of our team and our amazing clients. Winning this award is fantastic”

Specialising in waxing, Peaches wowed judges with its consistently impeccable standard of treatments and training. Judges noted how Peaches’ use of technology embraces the digital age and helps execute the salon’s clear vision, which staff are passionately on board with.

Extremely clean, well-lit treatment rooms make for a high standard of professional waxing.

Paul Beatty, managing director

NORTH EAST LARGE SALON OF THE YEAR WINNER | Beauty and Man at the Gate,

Holton-le-Clay Beauty and Man at the Gate stood out to the awards judges for its attention to detail in interior design, with the male and female areas separated via individual entrances and “quirky and modern” design features, which complemented the high quality of the treatments.

The bespoke Consult with Confidence software developed by the owners also impressed the judges and ensures that therapists all work to the same standards.

“We were absolutely shocked to hear our name when the award was called. The business has changed so much for the better over the past year, and the whole team has been so behind the changes that this award is for them” Kerri-Ann Angus, director

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Divine intervention Cheshire nail vlogger Natasha Lee has created her own product range centred on nail art, named Divine

by Natasha Lee. Tools include a capsule brush set, silicone and dotting tools, a professional cuticle hoof and precision curette tool, and a gem picker. There is also a line of fine nail art glitters, giving fans the opportunity to recreate Lee’s famous YouTube designs.

Nail News

83

NAIL BITES

5 minutes with

Colour goes digital and we find out where nail competitions can take your career

Samantha Birkett-Leigh, CND international education ambassador and global team member, and owner of Bliss Nail Studio in Cumbria

VIRTUAL NAIL TRIALS OPI has launched what it describes as “the world’s first” digital nail trials unit for shoppers.

The innovative facility gives consumers the opportunity to virtually try various lacquer shades on their own fingers prior to making a

My first taste of the nail industry was aged 14 when I took part in a two-week work-experience programme through my school. I fell in love with the industry and as soon as I left school I enrolled in a beauty course as there were no nail-only courses available at the time.

purchase. The freestanding units feature built-in augmented reality technology and were created by retail design agency Play.

Since rollout began, the OPI digital nail trial has been installed in more than 400 global travel retail locations, such as airports.

Mark Howell, creative director at Play, said: “Until now, there have been barriers for shoppers who want to physically try nail lacquer shades prior to purchase in contrast to lipstick, foundation and eyeshadows, which are readily available for in-store trial.”

I’ve been extremely lucky to have had quite a few career highlights over the years but the ones that stand out are opening my salon and training academy, winning the “Best Overall” award in San Diego at the CND Bootcamp, winning 10 national nail competitions, being part of CND’s Fashion Week team and making it as part of CND’s global team.

I absolutely love working with L&P. I never tire of seeing the transformations you can achieve with it, from beautifully sculpted nails to fabulous, intricate, mind-blowing 3D nail art.

The versatility of the system lets me constantly push myself to develop new ideas.

I appreciate all types and styles of art, whether it’s nail related or not. I just love to watch and be involved with people who are passionate about their craft.

It might sound crazy, but I’m not a huge forward planner. I’m a big believer in everything happening for a reason and at the right time. Do what you love and what you are passionate about and the path will lead you to where you are meant to be. @sammyblcnd

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Nail News

84

Competitive edge Denise Wright, the award-winning nail tech and director of Professional Beauty’s North Nail Championships, explains how competing can catapult your career to dizzy heights “Competitions are a great part of a nail tech’s life. They are fun and exciting while encouraging you to stretch and improve your skills along the way. On the competition circuit, you meet like-minded techs with a passion for the industry. You can make essential contacts, so when the time is right for you, your career journey can lead you into areas you perhaps haven’t even thought of yet. Take my journey as an example.

Starting out “I started as a nail tech in a shop, where I worked until I was

Teaching opportunities

ready to open my own salon. I wanted to test my skills, and

“As I made a name for myself, many doors opened

started competing in nail competitions at the trade shows. My

– I was invited to teach in colleges. City and Guilds then

first one was a disaster! The judges weren’t looking for salon-

asked me to write exam papers and mark them. Habia

standard nails – they were looking for perfection.

invited me to write standards for new nail qualifications

“I learned from their feedback and in my second competition

and to become part of their skills team for roadshows.

I won. My business boomed and my clients loved hearing about

I then opened my own training academy, offering City

the competitions and seeing the trophies. After my 10th title, I

and Guilds and then VTCT qualifications.

was invited to judge and help out with running the competitions.

Soon, I was asked to be the competition director for five shows.

In the media “Since then, I’ve written magazine articles, made educational DVDs, had TV experiences and worked on celebrities’ nails. As an NSI ambassador, I now travel all over the world educating with an international team.

Three times a year, I travel to the NSI Philadelphia head office and help develop new products. All of this started from competing.

“Along the journey, your name gets noticed and other opportunities arise. You have to take the rough with the smooth and it is a lot of effort. Sometimes you’ll need to give your time for free in order to promote yourself and leapfrog to the next level. But by entering competitions I began an amazing journey.

“No matter what you want from your nails career, why not enter that nail competition and see where it takes you.” PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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PB Subs ad QP PB Dec 18.indd 1 85 Adverts.indd 1

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14/11/2018 10:24

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24 February 2019 • The Brewery, London

RECOGNISING THE BEST SALONS, SPAS, EMPLOYERS AND INDIVIDUALS FROM ACROSS THE UK TO BOOK TICKETS VISIT www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/awardstickets 2019 CATEGORIES: • Large Salon of the Year* • Boutique Salon of the Year*

• Residential Spa of the Year: 11 Rooms or More*

• Nail Salon of the Year

• Residential Spa of the Year: 10 Rooms or Fewer*

• Day Spa of the Year*

• Medical Aesthetic Clinic of the Year

The winners will be announced at a black-tie ceremony on Sunday 24 February at The Brewery, in London.

For more information call 0207 351 0536 or email awards@professionalbeauty.co.uk

• Employer of the Year • Therapist of the Year • Nail Professional of the Year • Make-up Specialist of the Year

For more information visit: www.worldspawellness.com/awards

SPONSORED BY:

www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbawards

PBA19 master 210x297 Dec18.indd 1

06/11/2018 15:29

87 Staff Strategy

using

MYSTERY SHOPPERS

Inviting friends to visit your salon incognito can be a great way to improve customer service but mystery shoppers can also be effective to check up on staff, explains DAVID WRIGHT

O

ne of my salon owner clients has an established and successful business. She invests in training and would be seen as a “good employer”. She had not previously had any major staff issues and assumed this was her reward for “looking after the team”. Sadly, she was mistaken.

One of her staff told her she had overheard a colleague offering to treat a client at home, which effectively meant she was stealing customers from the salon. Having obtained some advice, the salon owner interviewed other members of staff, one of whom confided that they had seen the colleague erase a customer from the book saying, “that’s one for me”.

The owner already routinely asked friends to visit the salon and give her independent feedback as “mystery shoppers”. Following the new incident, a visit was hurriedly arranged and, by chance, the therapist under suspicion took the booking. At the end of the appointment, the client said she liked the treatment but couldn’t afford to rebook. The therapist told her she could “treat her at home more cheaply”, adding that she was steadily building up her client base before leaving.

The disciplinary The therapist was suspended and invited to an investigative interview, where she and her representative were extremely hostile. The representative insisted on taping the interview.

The employee denied any wrongdoing and questioned the salon owner regarding her actions, implying that it was underhand to send in the mystery shopper. A disciplinary hearing was arranged and the therapist was subsequently dismissed for gross misconduct.

At her appeal, she asked for specific evidence of clients that had been poached. She claimed her colleagues had lied because they wanted her job and her clients, and that the salon owner had “wanted rid of her”.

Her representative aggressively argued that the evidence of the “spy” should be disregarded.

There were threats of solicitors and the employer began to worry. However, she was reminded that for her decision to be considered fair, she only had to believe the employee was guilty and have reason for that belief, which she had.

The tribunal To their credit, the salon owner and her staff attended the subsequent employee tribunal hearing and repeated what they had seen and heard. The mystery shopper also attended.

When asked to declare the extent of her losses following her dismissal, the former employee was reluctant and it was suggested this was because there weren’t any as she had immediately become self-employed.

The employment judge advised that she found the dismissal fair and said the salon owner had meticulously followed her disciplinary procedure.

She was clearly of the view that the therapist had been poaching clients and had sufficient reason to reach that conclusion. The staff had been willing to give evidence and there was nothing wrong with the use of the mystery shopper.

Key factors in the success •T he employees had contracts of employment, salon rules and a disciplinary procedure • The disciplinary procedure was followed to the letter; there were notes of every meeting • Statements from staff were taken immediately and signed • The use of a mystery shopper was seen as wholly permissible. PB

David Wright is a consultant in all aspects of employment practice and law. He is the main employment law consultant for Habia and provides a personalised support service for UK salons.

Tel: 01302 563691 davidwrightpersonnel.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Treatment News

88 Sothys Le Soin Saisonnier Facial Chronobiology, the science of circadian rhythms, has been applied in the creation of this treatment, which is adaptable to the seasons. After the removal of make-up, 2-in-1 Mask Exfoliant, rich in pink clay, is applied to the face and neck to provide a brightening and radiance-boosting effect.

Following this, relaxing massage is performed on the face, neck and décolleté before the under-mask, a mix of Modelling Cream and 10 drops of the Oxy-minerals Radiance Treatment for winter skin, is smoothed on and topped up with Radiance Peel-off Mask.

The facial culminates with the seasonal Oxy-minerals Radiance Treatment and application of the relevant cream.

The autumn/winter scents of vanilla and passion fruit were crafted to invigorate the senses throughout the experience.

Sothys recommends charging from £45 for the treatment.

Call the brand on 01303 263666

Saving FACE

Facials that tackle everything from acne to skin ravaged by the winter elements feature this month

This month we tried… Spa/Clinic by 111Skin Clarity Anti-Blemish Facial

The lowdown: 111Skin and Bulgari Hotels have collaborated to offer luxury spa treatments with clinic-worthy results. This 90-minute treatment was designed by Dr Yannis Alexandrides to tackle problematic and acne-prone skin, specifically alleviating excess sebum production, large pores and blemishes with a non-invasive approach.

The Experience: As someone predisposed to spots, I was excited yet sceptical about a facial that claimed to offer an immediate solution to my blemishes. In the elegant spa at Bulgari Hotel London, where my treatment took place, the facial commenced with a cleanse using the Cryo Pre-Activated Toning Cleanser

and Exfolactic Cleanse. My therapist Kumari Thapa said my skin was “highly congested” and so chose to perform extractions after steaming my face. After this, a Tartaric & Lactic Clinical Exfoliator was applied to remove any dead skin cells and left for three minutes. Then, Thapa applied Anti-Blemish Tonic over my face and neck using gauze and left it to activate for a few minutes.

After the application of 3 Phase Anti-Blemish Booster, the next stage was a signature massage. To finish, the Anti-Blemish Bio Cellulose Facial Mask was moulded to my face and the Meso Infusion Lip Mask was left to work it’s magic while I received a relaxing head massage. At the end of the treatment, Thapa applied Space Defence Bright Eye Lift Gel and Meso Infusion Lip Balm. My inflamed spots were still slightly visible but the swelling was considerably reduced.

Business Benefits: The Spa/Clinic by 111Skin concept of delivering science-led treatments in a luxurious spa setting is a great selling point that would appeal to two distinct groups of people, those seeking resultsdriven treatments and those that want to relax and unwind in the theraputic environment of a spa.

The Bulgari Spa charges £260 for the Clarity Anti-Blemish Facial. Call the spa on 0344 692 1112 Tried by Lydia Mormen

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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This two-hour, multi-sensorial journey is performed in three stages, intended to recharge clients with positive energy.

After a relaxing welcome ceremony, the body is wrapped in a Precious Algae Balm enriched with green olivine shimmers, a

Treatment News

Thalgo Joyaux Atlantique Body Ritual semi-precious stone rich in magnesium.

The client then enjoys a hot hydro-massaging bath before the second step, a Pink Sand Scrub with white quartz crystals, renowned for their balancing and stabilising benefits.

The exclusive Thalgo Signature Massage, which combines ancestral African techniques and with marine lithotherapy, is step three and the end-of-treatment ceremony concludes the experience with gentle rocking and stretching techniques to awaken the body.

Thalgo recommends charging £80 to £120 for the ritual, depending on location.

Call the brand on 020 7512 0872

This month we tried… Eva by Endosphères The lowdown: A new treatment that applies Endosphères’s compressive microvibration technology to the face. The Eva facial is a three-phase treatment that uses three handpieces on different layers of the skin to exfoliate, lift and define facial contours and nourish the complexion. Those with dull skin presenting poor laxity and wrinkles or open pores, congestion and overall bad condition would benefit most.

The Experience: My therapist Sara Vannella performed the treatment on one side of my face first so I could compare results. The first phase is called sensorised ablative microvibration, a deep exfoliation, which Vannella explained uses gel microspheres to ablate the upper layers of the skin while stimulating the tissue to prepare for the second phase. She concentrated the exfoliation, particularly in areas of congestion, but was careful to avoid active breakouts.

Next came the main event – the compressive microvibration handpiece that Endosphères’s body treatment is known for. The device has a built-in sensor that applies the correct pressure to each part of the face, and it felt completely comfortable throughout, kneading my facial muscles and releasing tension.

Vannella stuck with the gel microspheres for me, but therapists have the option of switching them out for a silicone version that has a higher density and gives a more intense vibrational massage.

The third and final phase is vibro-electric delivery. Vannella applied a hyaluronic acid serum to my face and hooked me up to the transdermal electroporation handpiece that delivers square symmetrical pulses into the dermal-epidermal

layer, stimulating down to the muscular level. This was the only part of the process that was slightly unpleasant, as the pulses are deepened when the device is passed over bone, and it felt quite intense across the frontal bone of my forehead.

Post-treatment, it really looked and felt as though my face had had an intense workout, and I definitely noticed the effects of the lymphatic drainage and vascular actions of the compressive microvibration.

Business Benefits: The compressive microvibration handpiece’s built-in sensor takes the guesswork out of optimal treatment delivery for therapists and ensures a comfortable experience for clients. There’s no branded skincare to buy into along with the machine, so salons can incorporate their existing favourite products into treatment.

Endosphères Therapy recommends charging £150 to £250 for the 60-minute treatment, depending on products used. Call manufacturer Fenix Group on 0207 096 0040

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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90 New Products

CND From CND this Christmas come the limited-edition Vinylux Christmas Baubles. Each contains a festive colour alongside a bottle of Weekly Top Coat, delivering long-lasting wear. The ornaments come in four colourways: Wildfire, Ice Bar, Butterfly Queen and Rock Royalty, offering a selection of red, pink and purple tones.

Trade: £7.50 each 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Kitted OUT

Therapists, lash artists and nail techs are spoilt for choice with these winter and Christmas collections

Thalgo Thalgo’s latest collection, Joyaux Atlantique, is inspired by the five oceans and comprises Pink Sand Shower Scrub, which exfoliates and cleanses skin; Hydrating Dry Oil, which leaves skin feeling soft and moisturised; and a Fragranced Body Mist with floral and sunny notes to awaken the senses.

The products accompany the new two-hour Body ritual, Joyaux Atlantique.

Trade: from £15 for the shower scrub 200ml 020 7512 0872 thalgo.co.uk

Lynton Onda is a new body-contouring machine from Lynton, and the first to use new Coolwaves technology. The system offers localised fat loss, skin tightening and cellulite reduction with an 80% penetration depth for fat-loss treatments.

The technology also targets the connective tissue to reduce stubborn cellulite.

Price: on application 01477 536977 lynton.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Lecenté Lecenté’s winter collection comprises four glitters named Disco Balls in silver Dancing Queen, multi-coloured Night Fever, pink Funky Town and blue Boogie Nights. There are also four festive foils as well as a new multi-tool with interchangeable nibs and a foil adhesive.

Trade: £3.99 each 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

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Babor New from Babor is the SeaCreation line, containing microalgae to help reduce wrinkles and stubborn expression lines. The range, which comprises a face cream, eye cream, serum and mask, also contains glycocéane GP3 and Babor thermophiles, which stimulate collagen production and support cell regeneration.

Trade: from £67.50 for the eye cream 020 7287 7775 uk.babor.com

Mii Just in time for the party season, Mii Cosmetics has released two new Click & Colour Lip Crayons and an eyeshadow quad, Pure Decadence Eye Palette.

The lip crayon comes in two colours, Merlot and Rose, and is formulated with avocado and mango oil to nourish lips. The palette contains four neutral shades: Cognac, Truffle, Champagne and Caviar.

Trade: £8.50 for the Lip Crayon, £12.50 for the Eye Palette 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

Hive The LashLift system is the latest lash product available from the pro supplies brand. The system comprises three liquid treatments: lash lifting cream, treatment lotion and conditioning serum, each containing ten 1.5ml sachets. The system, when combined with the Lash Lifting Shields and Bonding System, contains all tools needed for a pro lash lift treatment.

Trade: £10 for each treatment 0845 450 4802 hiveofbeauty.com

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

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The sets include RevitaLash Advanced or RevitaBrow Advanced, Micellar Water Lash Wash and a Double-Ended Volume Mascara Set for a complete party eye look.

Trade: £49.75 for the Brow Kit, £52 for the Lash Kit 0333 014 2434 revitalash.co.uk

Navy Professional Beauty tools brand Navy Professional has been created by beauty therapist Rebecca Crawforth. Made in the UK from stainless steel and finished with a titanium coating, the cruelty-free tools are designed to offer quality, hygiene and reliability. The range includes equipment specifically designed for lash, brow and nail treatments.

Trade: from £20 07534 763164 navyprofessional.com

Gellux Pro nail brand Gellux has added six new shades to its core range, as well as a No Wipe Top Coat, which eliminates the need to wipe the nail with the Gellux Prep & Wipe and cures without any sticky residue to protect the gel polish. The six new shades include two returning colours from previous collections, Abracadabra and Red Hot Ruby, plus four new shades, Mauve Over, Plum Tucker, Petrol Blue and Rustic Red. Trade: £11.95 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com

Mavala Mavala is welcoming in winter with a line of chrome shades named The Cyber Collection.

The set contains six highly metallic polishes including the vibrant fuschia Cyber Pink, rose gold Cyber Blush, bright silver Cyber Silver, purple shimmer Cyber Violet, shimmering Cyber Gold and icy Cyber Blue.

Trade: £2.93 each for 5ml 01732 459412 mavala.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Neom New from Neom Organics are the Real Luxury and Perfect Night’s Sleep Multi Mineral Bath Salts, containing pink Himalayan salt, safflower and jojoba oil. Other key ingredients include 84 naturally occurring minerals, such as magnesium and zinc, that help to detoxify, reduce tension, ease muscles and balance hormones.

RRP: £38 01423 878810 neomorganics.com

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La Biosthetique This year’s Christmas offering from La Biosthetique comprises six gift boxes, a candle, limited-edition perfume and travel set.

A standout collection is the Spa Hands set, which contains a 50ml and 20ml Spa Citromycine Hand Cream and a luxury nail file.

Trade: £14.25 01296 611731 biosthetique.co.uk

Nourish London Nourish London has released a selection of four Christmas gifts this year. Radiance Duet gift set, containing a firming face oil and face shimmer; Essential Travel, for beauty lovers on the go; Radiance Beauty to hydrate and rejuvenate skin; and the Luxury Argan Beauty Collection, packed full of botanicals for a radiant complexion.

Trade: from £6.25 for the Radiance Duet Gift Set 020 7622 0688 nourishskinrange.com

Balmkind The Alpine Rose & Lysine Lip Balm is new from Balmkind, containing antioxidant-rich fruit and flower oils and hydrating oat lipids and liquorice root to soothe chapped lips.

The rose-scented balm is free from parabens, mineral oil and petrolatum and is available with SPF20.

RRP: £13 for 10ml 0800 389 8195 balmkind.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Classified

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Career Path

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How to make it as a...

complementary

therapist

Angie Buxton-King, healer, author and recent overall winner of the first Complementary Therapy Awards, held in association with the FHT, shares her journey

1. Follow your intuition

3. Get specialist training

My healing journey began when my youngest son Sam

To become an NHS healer, your training must meet National

was having treatment at Great Ormond Street Hospital

Occupational Standards, and to work outside of private

after being diagnosed with leukemia, aged seven, in

practice you need CPD training specific to the area of

1995. They told us that Sam wouldn’t respond to the

health you want to work in, be it cancer, multiple sclerosis

treatment that would enable him to go into remission

or mental health. Ensure your training course includes

and have a bone marrow transplant, giving him three

experience of working with those kinds of patients.

months to live.

4. Be realistic

I’d completed some spiritual healing training so we searched for alternative healers, looking for any

When people come on our courses, they often have an

available help. Sam was supported by the healing, it

idealised version of what an NHS healer role may involve.

helped him tolerate the treatments that pushed him into

In reality, it can be a grim environment where people are

remission and he was able to have the transplant, so we

going through the worst time of their lives. It’s not for the

got three years with him instead of three months. When

faint-hearted.

Sam passed in 1998, I listened to my intuition, which told

You are often working by a patient’s bedside rather than

me to help others like Sam through healing.

in a relaxing therapy room. Work can become very clinical.

2. Shake off setbacks

For instance, we might work with a nurse to cannulate a

Great Ormond Street wasn’t open to the idea of me

peripheral veins to the top and aid cannulation through

providing healing, but I wasn’t deterred. I approached

relaxation, or you may accompany people into theatre.

University College London Hospital and they allowed me

As an NHS team member, you have to be professional.

four Fridays to prove a need for these treatments. It was successful and they agreed to employ me one day a

5. Have a secondary income

week, funded by charity.

According to the NHS system called Agenda for Change,

patient as the parasympathetic response will bring the

I did my Reiki course in 2000, and by 2003 we had

healers are on a point 4 or point 5 scale, which equates to

five different complementary therapists in the hospital.

£15 per hour. However, roles usually involve working only

I was appointed complementary therapy manager within

two to three days a week so I would advise people to have

cancer. I wanted to spread this model so we created the

a private practice running alongside their NHS work.

trust in Sam’s name. We offer unique training and help

These days, healers get much recognition from senior

fund places for therapists to be employed within the

consultants and others with a multi-disciplinary NHS team.

NHS. Now we have projects in 15 other NHS Trusts and

It’s a career pathway, but not one that’s going to make you

we intend to go onwards and upwards.

big bucks. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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