Professional Beauty November 2019

AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS

BROW LAMINATION • LASH TROUBLESHOOTING • ACNE PIGMENTATION • COMPETING WITH RETAILERS

STRAIGHT UP ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BROW LAMINATION

OFF THE MARK HOW TO TREAT POST-ACNE PIGMENTATION

November 2019

November 2019 | professionalbeauty.co.uk

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13 News

UK’s most popular salon names revealed; Boom in sales for illuminating make-up

Contents

Nov

Regulars

CND for Libertine at NYFW SS20

Contents

7

31 Professionalbeauty.co.uk

What the industry’s been talking about online 32 Social surgery

Building your salon’s website: the dos and don’ts 37 Out & about

Behind the scenes at the biggest parties 43 Insider

Monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 51 Ward’s world

Why your business needs regular investment to survive 55 Ask the experts

Upping your waxing sales in winter and nailing seasonal make-up looks

Features

On the cover

26 Raise your profile

Entries are now open for the Professional Beauty Awards 2020

73 Mission control

The stubborn red marks left behind after adult acne are a big concern for clients. We explore how you can effectively treat post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scarring in salon

103 Nail notes

PB Award-winning nail tech Kayley Cairns on preventing contact allergies

65 Talking to… Armand Beasley

The celebrity MUA reveals the make-up trends set to be big in 2020 and why he’s launching his first product

105 Operational advice

Helping external shareholders understand the business of spa

87 Wellness for women

Psychotherapist Fiona Arrigo on the rise of healing spaces for women in spas

107 Treatment news

First look at Guinot and Lash Perfect’s new eye treatments

89 Picture of health

How offering clients in-depth health MOTs has set Homefield Grange resort apart from the competition

111 New products

Lecenté moves into the gelpolish market; Katie Barnes launches a nail tool range 120 Career path

Sienna X tanner Carly Hobbs on building a celebrity client base

99 Hot topic

Are professional brands focusing less on the salon market and more on retail?

Two beauty business owners weigh in

82 Raise your brow game

A new semi-permanent brow trend has taken social media by storm, promising to deliver thick, brushed-up brows with minimal upkeep. We give you the lowdown on brow lamination 92 More than meets the eye

With the lash industry going from strength-to-strength, we troubleshoot seven of the biggest challenges techs find when doing lash extensions and lifts Cover image: M&Co

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/10/2019 10:04

M&Co

One of the things that makes the beauty industry so exciting to work in is that it never stays still. There are constantly new trends and treatments being developed, driven by both advances in technology and shifts in consumer demand.

One of the biggest to emerge this year is brow lamination. Hitting the pro market in a major way at the recent Professional Beauty North show, the trend hails from Russia and is a bit like a lash lift for the brows, offering that on-trend full, brushed-up look using just the natural hairs. Some of the biggest brands in the professional sector are investing in brow lamination in a big way this year. Find out more about the latest offers from HD Brows, the Eyelash Design Company and others from page 82.

We also take a closer look at some of the biggest trends predicted to shake up the make-up world next year in our interview with Armand Beasley. As the celebrity MUA makes his first foray into product development, he shares his tips on how technology is impacting design and why we’ll see a return to nature in creative make-up artistry. Read the full interview on page 65.

Beasley also gives his advice on working in TV and building up a celeb client base – a specialism that’s shared by spray tanner Carly Hobbs, who we profile in our Career Path feature on page 120 this month. While both recommend some great ways to get your talent noticed both online and in person, they also agree that a career in celeb and session work will only have staying power if it comes from a base of professionalism and training – something that can also be said for treatment trends.

Sothys

Editor’s Comment

8

Editor

@Pro_Beauty01

@Pro_Beauty

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09/10/2019 17:05

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Take a fresh look at Eve Taylor and discover our affordable and profitable packages and see your business grow.

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13 News

News Three- and four-star online reviews generate beauty salons the most money

The online review star rating sweet spot for beauty business revenue is between three and four stars, according to research from small business software company Womply.

Online reviews are now considered more important for beauty salons than traditional word-of-mouth recommendations, with your star rating having a big impact on profits.

The new study, which looked at the impact online reviews had on revenue at more than 20,000 local health and beauty businesses, discovered that those rated with five stars actually earned less in revenue than those with a three- or four-star rating, which took 22% more in annual revenue than the average.

The research also discovered that the more recent the reviews of your salon the better, with beauty businesses that had more than four “fresh” online reviews (posted within the last 90 days) earning 30% more revenue than average, while those

with 12 or more recent reviews in that time period earned 35% more, the report found.

When it comes to having a top-notch online reputation, your response rate to reviews also matters.

More than three quarters (77%) of health and beauty businesses don’t respond to them, which is a problem since those that replied to 25% of customer reviews earned 20% more yearly revenue than those who didn’t.

The owners who didn’t reply to any took 5% less annually, the report found.

Meanwhile, an above average number of reviews on Google gave beauty businesses the largest positive impact on revenue of all review sites.

The search engine also came out top as the most important free listing site for health and beauty businesses, with more customers now using Google Maps to find nearby beauty salons and spas in their local area.

Sales of illuminating make-up rose 7% this year thanks to #glowingskin movement Glowing skin is in as UK sales of prestige illuminating make-up rocketed in the first half of 2019 (January to June), according to research by market analyst The NPD Group.

Whereas overall make-up sales declined in this period, compared to the same period last year, sales of products that produce a “glow” or “illuminating” effect grew 7% to a value of £2.2 million.

Behind the growth is social media movement #glowingskin – the trend of natural-looking, super-highlighted skin – with the hashtag being used more than 3.5 million times on Instagram, and #glowingmakeup, which was used

293,000 times, the report found.

New products are also a driving force, with more than 20 launches of glow make-up in the first half of 2019, including highlighters, primers,

powders, and highlighting and illuminating palettes.

“The growth of glow make-up demonstrates that today’s savvy consumer is looking for products that enhance the skin while producing a more radiant, natural look,” said June Jensen, director of NPD UK beauty.

“In a challenging retail environment, it’s important that brands understand the appeal of these product lines and adapt their marketing campaigns and retail experience to meet the needs of today’s demanding customer.”

This research follows the news that there’s been a 114% increase in sales of prestige foundations this year, also reported by The NPD Group. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/10/2019 08:45

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inbrief

Red lips most hashtagged make-up look on Instagram

The most hashtagged make-up looks on Instagram have been revealed.

The classic red lip came out top with 15,460,696 tags, according to the social media platform’s statistics for the year to September 30, 2019 (analysed by fashion brand Miss G Couture).

Lash extensions were second with 9,440,390 hashtags, which is no surprise

considering the popularity of classic, Russian and volume lashes, while the definition-enhancing contouring look came in third (7,537,999).

Fourth place was taken by mink lashes (5,850,767) and fifth by glowing skin (3,639,956).

However, lashes proved the most popular make-up category overall, with 29,850,496 searches in total, broken down between lash extensions (9,440,390), mink lashes (5,850,767), volume lashes (4,668,322), lashes on fleek (3,176,464) and Russian volume (1,721,555).

Lipstick was the second most hashtagged category with 28,963,714 searches in total, split between red lips (15,460,696), nude lip (677,313), lip art (483,814), matte lips (420,048) and glossy lips (327,447).

The Insta Make-up category is also popular, with 18,888,405 searches, broken down between contouring (7,537,999), glowing skin (3,639,956), glitter make-up (1,166,112), strobing (398,195) and dewy make-up (169,907).

“The Beauty Box” most used beauty salon name in the UK The Beauty Box is the most popular name for beauty and hairdressing businesses in the UK, with 134 salons currently using it, found business loan provider Esme Loans’s report.

Businesses in the North East are most likely to be registered with the name – 52 salons are currently using it, followed by 37 sites in Greater London, and 33 in Birmingham and its close surrounding areas, the report found.

Hollywood Nails came in second place, with 102 UK salons registered with the name, followed by 96 different places called Cutting Edge, 77 House of Hairs and 48 Mirror Mirrors.

Esme Loans gathered these results from the names of 27,323 registered hair and beauty businesses in the UK.

News

15

// Elemis has partnered with Almarose Hotel & Resorts, providing skincare products and treatments to 17 of its spa locations, including Norton Park Hotel (pictured). Almarose director of leisure and spa Dave Heap said the partnership “aligns perfectly as we invest in our spa product”. // Cosmeceutical brand Medik8 has upped the green initiatives in the packaging part of its business, banning plastic inserts, making sure cartons are 100% FSC certified and reducing carton sizes to minimise paper usage. The brand has also expanded its distribution worldwide via the medik8.com/int site. // The Ringwood Hall Hotel in Derbyshire has chosen natural skincare brand Pevonia as its exclusive spa partner.

The brand’s facial menu and products will feature in The Garden Secret Spa, and all therapists have been given on-site training with Pevonia educators. // Employees’ work attitude could be negatively impacting your salon’s success, with just under half (46%) of customers saying impatient customer service has affected their impression of a business, in research by RADA Business, a subsidiary of the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art. Other poor staff behaviours included unhelpfulness and poor communication. // Leading make-up artist Lan Nguyen-Grealis has launched her second book, Pro Makeup Design, aimed at MUAs. It features photographs of Nguyen-Grealis’s editorial, fashion, celebrity, and advertising campaign work, organised by theme. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/10/2019 08:46

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Introducing the 3D-ultimatepro – the Next Generation in non-surgical, body sculpting technology The all new medical grade 3D-lipo ultimatepro is manufactured under stringent ISO13485:2016 standards. Our game changing device offers a range of exciting new features that will consolidate our status as the UK’s No.1 body contouring brand!

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ONE machine, MULTIPLE treatments Take a look at the SIGNIFICANT ADVANCES IN SPECIFICATION on offer with the 3D-ultimatepro:

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WANT TO KNOW HOW 3D CAN BENEFIT YOUR BUSINESS? Attend one of our Business Seminars to find out more: Monday 4th November – 3D-lipo Head Office Monday 9th December – 3D-lipo Head Office

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News

18

inbrief // Sandy Fuhr has been elected President of Cidesco International, taking over from Anna-Cari Gund who held the post for seven years. Fuhr is founder of the Sandy Roy Beauty Therapy Institute in South Africa and has been a global practitioner of beauty and spa standards for more than 30 years. // Semi-permanent make-up artist Laura Kay has opened a flagship clinic in Radlett, Hertfordshire, offering aesthetic and skincare treatments. It also houses the brand’s Laura Kay London Academy, which offers specialist training to new and experienced technicians. // London-based ondemand wellness and beauty app Uspaah has secured nearly £200,000 from more than 80 investors during a new round of crowd funding. The company has also partnered with UK domestic services provider Fantastic Services via an equity for services investment worth an additional £150K. // More than 1,100 UK salons are now official stockists of professional foot care treatment brand Lovaskin – which only launched to the market in May this year.

The brand’s hero product is Instant Foot Peel, a twopiece kit that gets rid of stubborn calluses. // Salon System is running a series of Christmas Creative Workshops throughout November and December, focusing on how to create lash and nail looks for the festive season with its key brands. The four-hour masterclass also includes info on how to run your salon profitably during the busy period. Book: tiny.cc/14k5dz

World Spa & Wellness Awards 2020 finalists revealed

The shortlist for the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2020 has landed, with leading spas from across the globe recognised in 15 different categories, celebrating businesses that excel in customer journey, facilities and innovation.

Among the finalists are famous overseas establishments such as Canyon Ranch’s Las Vegas site

(pictured left) in the Hotel Spa of the Year: North & South America category; and Five Elements Retreat in Bali (right) in the new Sustainable Spa of the Year category, as well as some UK stars such as Rudding Park and Seaham Hall. See the full list of finalists at professionalbeauty.co.uk/wswfinalists The winners will be revealed at The World Spa & Wellness Awards in London on Sunday, March 29, 2020.

Middlesbrough beauty salon uses “real” clients to promote its services Skins and Needles Beauty salon in Middlesbrough is using real people in its marketing campaign “Be your own kind of beautiful” to help stop body-shaming.

Owner Sam Grierson said she was sick of seeing unrealistic images of people on social

media and wanted to show that beauty comes in all shapes and forms.

Grierson asked people interested in featuring to post pictures of themselves on social media with no make-up on, and will select five applicants to appear in the campaign.

Beauty industry calls for changes to immigration and wage increase policies Trade bodies across beauty, spa, food, retail and hospitality have joined forces to call for changes in Government policy on immigration and wage increases.

The National Beauty Federation is among the bodies that have written to secretary of state for business, energy and industrial strategy Andrea Leadsom, asking for business relief on two big issues.

They want the Government to not risk the industry losing any EU workers currently employed by delaying their

applications for settled or pre-settled status post-Brexit, as well as calling for restraint on further increases to the National Living Wage.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/10/2019 08:47

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To find out more about 3D-HydrO2 facial, or to arrange a free demonstration, call a member of our dedicated sales team on 01788 220451 or visit www.3d-lipo.co.uk @3Dlipoltd

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07/10/2019 13:58:32

Discover why 3D-Trilogyice is one of the fastest selling laser hair removal devices on the UK market today Unprecedented client satisfaction 3 in 1 applicator Triple wavelength delivery Fast results Fast treatment time Comfort cooling Suitable for skin types 1-5 including tanned Low consumable costs Low treatment costs Virtually painless Easy to operate

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2. High profitability with fast return on investment ONE WEEK

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News

22

inbrief

Salons reach out to Thomas Cook employees during business’s collapse // Membership salon concept The Massage Company (TMC) opened its fourth centre in Sutton Coldfield on October 17. The site, run by franchisee Sunny Sachdev, has created 30 jobs in the area. TMC also has sites in Camberley, High Wycombe and Tunbridge Wells. // Cynosure UK will host its third Aesthetic Exchange Educational Symposium – Topicals and Lasers: Maximising Outcome and Income – at the King’s Fund, London, on November 22–23.

Experts will explore the combined use of lasers and cosmeceuticals for improved client outcomes, providing in-depth seminars and live demos spanning both face and body. // Beauty business consultant Liz McKeon has announced the 2020 dates for her Business Owners Retreat, taking place at the Princesa Yaiza Resort in Lanzarote on January 11–18. The seven-day retreat includes 10 workshops, one-to-one coaching time with McKeon, networking, daily meditation and more. // Just under half (49%) of employees said surprise or unexpected rewards are the biggest motivators for them at work and have the longest lasting impact, according to workplace incentives provider One4all Rewards. However, only 36% of UK businesses are using these non-monetary incentives. // Yogi Parmar has joined Irish salon software company Phorest as strategic accounts director, responsible for building the business’s relationships across the industry. Parmar joins from salon chain Francesco Group, and previously worked for salon software provider Shortcuts as sales director.

The beauty industry has come together to support Thomas Cook employees who lost their jobs after the company went into liquidation on September 23 due to a £1.7 billion debt.

Emily Louise Beauty and Aesthetics Salon in Kettering has been offering those affected by the closure £250 vouchers redeemable against courses at the business’s training academy, providing them with a potential new career in beauty. For those not interested in the training, owner Emma Louise Varnfield has also offered assistance with CVs. Meanwhile, Arch Rival Brows in Skelmersdale and Beauty at Noggi’s in

Bolton have both been offering former Thomas Cook employees free treatments up to the value of £25.

“I can’t give you your job back but I can provide a pick-me-up freebie,” said Arch Rival Brows founder Lydia Upjohn.

Rena Spa concept rolled out at UK spas including The Midland

UK and Ireland hotel group Jurys Inn and Leonardo Hotels has launched a new spa brand for a selected number of its properties.

Rena Spa will replace the hotels’ existing spas and debuted at the City, Tower Bridge and St Paul’s Leonardo Royal London properties on September 16, as well as at the Jurys Inn Holborn and Leonardo Royal Southampton Grand Harbour.

The spa concept, with Caudalie treatments, will roll out to The Midland Hotel in Manchester in late November, too. The group operates 15 hotels in the UK and Ireland under the Leonardo brand and 37 under Jurys Inn.

Former Lavender & Stone salon group owners launch AB Beauty Consultancy The former owner of salon chain Lavender & Stone Anna Nickless (pictured right) has launched AB Beauty Consultancy in partnership with her former salon manager Bonnie Platts (left).

The consultancy will advise salon owners on recruitment and business

growth, offering a full range of services including analysing finances to advise on growth, building a database of therapists to help owners with recruitment, and advising on scheduling of both therapists and client appointments to maximise profit.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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News

24

diarydates // November 3 Conscious Hair and Beauty Conference OXO2, Southbank, London Event run by Phorest salon software, focused on sustainability and wellness.

020 7100 9290 phorest.com

// November 4–11 National Spa Week Events across UK spas Organised by UK Spa Association, the week has a trade-only focus this year, with activities for spa teams.

0800 043 6600 spaweek.co.uk // November 11–12 Spa Life UK Hilton Doubletree, Coventry Conference and mini expo for spa professionals.

01268 745892 spa-life.co.uk // December 9 The Two Old Queens Coal Road, Leeds Intimate evening with nail industry legends Marian Newman and Gigi Rouse.

0333 000 7000 my.sweetsquared.com/ education/course/349 // January 30–February 1, 2020 IMCAS Annual World Congress Palais de Congress, Paris International expo covering aesthetic procedures. +33 (0) 140 738 282 imcas.com/en // February 16–17, 2020 Professional Beauty GCC Festival Arena, Dubai The biggest industry event in Dubai, includes World Spa & Wellness Convention Dubai. +971 (0) 4375 7300 professionalbeauty.ae

Lash Perfect launches franchising and branded tech network Lash Perfect has launched a franchise model for its Lash Perfect Beauty Bar with a view to rolling out both standalone sites and concessions.

Franchisees will be offered training and support, exclusive branded equipment and discounts on professional stock, as well as a lease package for a Lash Perfect branded Fiat 500. Multiple methods of education, including “new to beauty” training, will be on offer.

The partnership will encourage franchisees to run the salons the way they wish, offering advice tailored to small business, as well as supporting expansion into further treatments such as hand and nail care and pedicures.

Lash Perfect has also appointed a network of branded mobile techs

throughout the UK. Lash Perfect launched its first company-owned salon Lash Perfect Lash Bar in 2011 with plans to franchise. The salon was later relocated and renamed as Lash Perfect Beauty Bar to reflect the company’s growing portfolio.

Dermalogica receives award for training Skincare brand Dermalogica has been given a Princess Royal Training Award (PRTA) for exemplar training and best learning practice. It was among 44 organisations recognised in the awards, which are run by City and Guilds.

Dermalogica was recognised for “embracing digital advances” and “reinventing the way it trains employees on new products”.

Education manager Candice Gardner said, “This award is a fantastic recognition of the tremendous amount of work that goes into providing the highest quality brand and product training for our staff possible.”

Hydrafacial acquires UK distributor The Consulting Room Aesthetic device manufacturer The HydraFacial Company has acquired the distribution arm of The Consulting Room, which distributes the HydraFacial device in the UK. The acquisition has formed HydraFacial UK, with 19 Consulting Room employees transitioning to the new company. HydraFacial already has corporate offices and direct sales in China, Japan, Spain and Canada in addition to the US.

The Consulting Room Group also owns cosmetic treatment information website consultingroom.com and Consulting Room Magazine, which have not been acquired.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty Awards 2020

26

Raise your

PROFILE

D

Entries are now open for the industry’s biggest and most established honours, the PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY AWARDS 2020

on’t miss your chance to set yourself apart from the competition and be recognised as the best in the UK by entering the prestigious Professional Beauty Awards 2020.

The awards will be a standalone summer event, held at the beautiful London Hilton on Park Lane on June 28, 2020.

The day will begin with a round-table Salon & Spa Connect conference-style afternoon networking event, allowing finalists to meet in an informal setting and share challenges and solutions.

Awards winners will then be announced during a glamorous black-tie dinner, featuring a drinks reception, three-course meal and entertainment.

The categories Regional categories Midlands & North West Salon of the Year Midlands & North West Spa of the Year North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Salon of the Year North East, Scotland & Northern Ireland Spa of the Year South East Salon of the Year South East Spa of the Year South West & Wales Salon of the Year South West & Wales Spa of the Year

National categories NEW: Spa/Salon Leader of the Year NEW: Spa/Salon Team of the Year Boutique Salon of the Year* Large Salon of the Year* Boutique Spa of the Year* Large Spa of the Year* Nail Salon of the Year Therapist of the Year Employer of the Year

* National spa and salon categories cannot be entered directly. The winners of these four categories will be the highest scorers from all relevant regional categories

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Professional Beauty Awards 2020

27

5 reasons to enter 1. Gain industry recognition The awards have been running for more than 20 years and are the most respected in the industry, with previous winners including huge names such as Pennyhill Park, Zen Lifestyle, Pure Spa and many more.

Being named a winner will put your business up there with the industry’s best.

The judging process All entries are scored by a panel of independent industry experts to decide on the shortlist. Finalists go through to second-round judging, which varies depending on category but involves judging visits, trade tests and interviews. The winners are then announced during a gala awards dinner on Sunday, June 28, 2020, at London Hilton on Park Lane.

2. Keep clients loyal Proudly displaying a trophy in reception or a Professional Beauty Awards Winner logo in your window will reassure clients they are coming to the right place – and encourage them to tell their friends about you, too.

3. Attract new business Previous winners have secured extensive press coverage on both a local and national level, as well as significant social media activity, all of which attracts the attention of potential clients.

4. Solve your recruitment problems Winning or reaching the finals in the Employer, Team or Leader categories will prove you are an exceptional company to work for and will help attract talent to your business.

5. Reward your team SPONSORED BY

Winning any Professional Beauty Award is a team effort. For your staff, knowing they work for an award-winning business will boost morale, increase loyalty and demonstrate that you value their contribution to the business’s success.

HOW TO ENTER: Entries are now open. Deadline for entries is January 17, 2020.

All categories are free to enter online at professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Untitled-10 1

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Digital

31

professional

SAUNAS AND STEAM • TRENDS AT PB NORTH • CBD TREATMENTS • CHRISTMAS LAUNCHES

beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

October 2019 OFC PBOCT19 IIAA.indd All Pages

09/09/2019 11:06

Hidden Beauty UK (@HiddenBeautyUK): We always love it when @pro_beauty mag drops through the door! #CustomerService #CustomerExperience #Business #BeautyBusiness #PBNorth

THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you think beauty marketing has become more inclusive in the past 12 months?

72% YES

28% NO

Armand Beasley (@ArmandBeasley): Great fun chatting with the @pro_beauty team ahead of #PBNorth, hosting the @Warpaint_Mag stage and the launch of my first #beauty product #ProBodyGlow

Hot topic

Beauty industry calls for Government changes in wage increase policies as Brexit looms Suzanne Trueman, owner of Casabella House of Beauty, commented: “As a salon owner, I see the frustration from both an employee and employer view. As an employer, the margins have become very tight over the years – particularly with the introduction of online shopping and destination spas being brought into the mix. I’m all for raising the wage for the employee, but with it has to come support for the employer. We cannot continue taking the brunt of all the rises that the Government imposes.”

Hot topic

How to help your clients manage the symptoms of menopause Clare Rogers, owner of the Treatment Rooms, Brighton, commented: “So true @MegMathews. Therapists need to read the signs.

Having been through it myself, I know how important it is.”

Zélie Gordon, beauty and holistic therapist, commented: “Well said. I suffer myself and didn’t realise what a massive effect menopausal changes can have. Many of my clients are also in the same boat. More understanding is vital.”

Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @katsjonouchi

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK

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Social Surgery

32

BUILDING

website a

When creating a website for your salon, should you buy an off-the-shelf template or go bespoke? PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin explores the options and costs

T

he process of creating your own website can be daunting – with a wealth of decisions to make on hosting, design and more acting as a barrier to entry.

There are two main ways you can go about building a website for your business, but each comes with its pros and cons.

Template websites Recently, there’s been a boom in website-building services offering “click and create” websites from basic templates.

While these types of businesses have existed for years, the quality of their offering has significantly improved.

The likes of Squarespace and Wix offer several layouts that can be tweaked and made more personal. There’s a good amount of variation in the templates offered, so you’re likely to find one to fit the general design you’re aiming for.

Cost is also a positive point when it comes to this type of site. You can easily get your URL, hosting and website created for under £200 (and many of these providers also regularly offer discounts). In this sense, many of the initial hurdles of setting up your site are cleared with ease.

Where you’re likely to run in to issues is that, ultimately, these websites work because they run off a one-size-fitsall strict template. You may struggle to make a website that looks exactly the way you want it, or that fits your brand. Similarly, you’ll have to make any changes to functionality or design yourself, which can require quite a bit of time and effort.

Compatibility of third-party plugins and software may

also be an issue. If you plan on using a booking platform for your salon, for example, this may be difficult, or in some cases impossible. Ensure you thoroughly research which additional services do and do not work with your provider’s template if you go down this route.

Bespoke websites The other option is working with a designer to create a bespoke website built to your needs. Obviously, this would come at a much greater price. Stats from business services provider Expert Market show that, at a minimum, you’re likely to be spending at least £500 upfront for a basic small business website. This doesn’t include ongoing costs for hosting, content updates and any other charges.

Similarly, whether you’re working with a company or freelance website developer, you’re also slightly restricted as you’ll need to make changes through them and on their schedule. Maintaining a strong relationship will help to smooth this process, but be aware of this potential constraint.

However, this additional cost and time put in to your website can easily be worth it. A bespoke site can be tailored to your business’s needs – giving you the exact look and feel you want for your online presence.

Similarly, someone with expertise in coding will be able to overcome any challenges faced when trying to use software or add-ons with your website. This way, you can ensure that your website is in safe hands and always have the ability to raise your game, without the risk of being left behind or limited by a stock template. PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Industry Events

37

Out About

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

BABTAC CONFERENCE AND AWARDS 2019 CASTLE HOTEL, WINDSOR For the first time, Babtac ran the Innovative Beauty Conference alongside its annual awards.

The new programme featured business topics such as treating cancer patients and improving your social media. PB editor Eve Oxberry and Aesthetic Medicine deputy editor Georgia Seago went along on September 13 to see speakers including salon owner Sam Pearce, business coach Liz McKeon and beauty blogger Caroline Hirons. The conference was opened by QVC host and therapist Alison Young, who also announced the awards winners during the evening event. Winners included Scotland salon group Zen Lifestyle, aesthetic therapist Martine Jarman, and nails entrepreneur Leighton Denny.

UK SPA ASSOCIATION SUMMER NETWORKING EVENT SOUTH LODGE HOTEL & SPA, SURREY A host of new initiatives were announced at the UK Spa Association’s networking event on September 14, when almost 200 spa operators and suppliers gathered to talk all things wellness. Eve and Georgia went along to meet with industry pros and share ideas on initiatives such as encouraging more young people to consider spa as a serious career choice and the new trade-only focus for National Spa Week, which takes place in November. Rob Cross of Muru Leadership also spoke at the event on the topic of mindful leadership.

Guests had a chance to look around the new South Lodge Spa, where the event was hosted, and to sample drinks from wellness-focused brands including Pukka teas.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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38 Industry Events

NAVY BREAKFAST EVENT IVY CHELSEA GARDEN, LONDON Pro tools brand Navy hosted a breakfast event in Chelsea to celebrate its one-year anniversary and launch its Back to British campaign. The brand, which was created in 2018 by former salon owner Rebecca Crawforth, is based in Yorkshire and works with local suppliers. Session techs including Michelle Class, Metta Francis and Robbie Tompkins were there to support the brand, along with key press and influencers. Guests left with goody bags including Navy products and personalised embroidered tool pouches.

WORLD WELLNESS WEEKEND MULTIPLE LOCATIONS AROUND THE WORLD The third annual World Wellness Weekend was celebrated on September 21–22, with some 2,356 hotels, spas and fitness centres in 98 countries around the world taking part. Properties from Fiji to Maui organised free wellness actives such as yoga classes, taster treatments, wellness talks and discounts. World Wellness Weekend saw a huge increase in the number of properties participating this year, up from 656 in 2018.

LINNAEAN LAUNCH PARTY LINNAEAN LIVING, NINE ELMS, LONDON London wellness concept Linnaean Living, which recently opened on the riverside in Nine Elms, hosted a launch party in September. Eve went along to meet the team, including consultant Penny Etheridge, who is also managing the salon on an interim basis. The space houses a hair salon, restaurant and bar on the ground floor, while the upstairs is dedicated to beauty and aesthetics with four treatment rooms and high-end mani and pedi stations. It stocks niche brands including Zelens, Orveda, Grown Alchemist and Allies of Skin.

SANDERSONS SPA LAUNCH PARTY SANDERSONS BOUTIQUE STORE, FOX VALLEY, SHEFFIELD To celebrate the opening of its new treatment rooms and beauty retail area, department store Sandersons held a launch party with a special appearance from Joanna Lumley. Celeb make-up artist Armand Beasley, who works closely with the store, was also there, along with hundreds of shoppers, who toured the two treatment rooms, lounge and reception area. Featured brands in the new organics retail area include Voya, SKN-RG, Caudalie, Clarins and SoNatural Therapy.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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43 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

beauty

On the spot Which lash extension issue do you struggle with most?

1. Getting the placement right 2. Taking too long to get the lashes on 3. The glue drying time

Next

With more pro brands having entered the lash market this year, the sector is booming. As such, more salons are offering lash extensions than ever before, but the classic, Russian and volume treatment techniques aren’t as easy to do as they seem. A quarter of techs (25%) still struggle with getting the placement right every time, while others say speed is a big issue, taking too long to get the extensions on. If you’re having issues with either extensions or lash lifts, check out our lash troubleshooting guide on page 92.

Sensitive skin has also been in the spotlight as new treatments launch to help reduce the symptoms more effectively. However, it can be tough to treat these conditions as the severity varies person to person, with more than half of you (51%) finding eczema the most difficult skin issue to tackle. Meanwhile, three quarters said they would love to go into business with a friend, stating it to be the perfect partnership.

September 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2018?

72% 19% 9%

73

%

would go into business with a friend

Which sensitive skin condition do you find hardest to treat?

1. Eczema 2. Rosacea 3. Psoriasis

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider

BETTER

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

44% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2018?

30% 19% 51% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Trends

44

Insider

spa

On the spot

Penneys

Making sure you get the best deals from suppliers has been a top priority, with many of you asking about exclusive services that you don’t currently get. At the top of your wish list is more specialist products and pricing for your spa (57%), followed by a refill service for skincare products to help boost your eco credentials (33%) and meet clients’ green demands.

Expanding your service offering is also a priority, with many of you looking to introduce a more extensive yoga menu for spa clients. Restorative yoga (29%) is what you’re immediately looking to add, with sunrise, vinyasa, ashtanga, yin and bikram also popular choices. Plus, with wellness gardens growing in popularity, nearly a third (29%) of you are thinking of transforming your outdoor space. Healing spaces for women in spas are also on the rise. Read about the trend on page 87.

What do you wish you got from suppliers that you don’t currently?

1. More spa-exclusive products/pricing 2. Product refill service 3. More flexibility on which products/ services you take 4. Collaborative social media campaigns

September 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2018?

15% 43% 42% BETTER

29%

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

are looking to open a wellness garden in the future

42% Which type of yoga would you most like to add to your fitness menu?

1. Restorative 2. Sunrise 3. Bikram 4. Vinyasa

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2018?

31% BETTER

29%

40% WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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The nail industry is facing many challenges at the moment – the rise of dodgy online academies and non-standard salons damaging the industry’s reputation, to name just two – but one area that you feel should be getting more attention is product development. An incredible three quarters (75%) of you believe there is a real lack of innovation in this arena, especially in comparison to the strides being made in accredited training.

Meanwhile, following the story of a school near Newcastle that made headlines for its ban on nail extensions after a dispute with a pupil and her mother, we asked you whether it’s appropriate for students to be wearing these when learning and it has divided opinion. Contact allergies is another big issue – read PB’s Nail Professional of the Year 2019 Kayley Cairns’s top tips for preventing them on page 103.

On the spot Product is the area of the industry you think lacks innovation

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Business Trends

46

September 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2018?

49 %

55% 24% 21%

think pupils should be allowed to wear nail extensions at school

BETTER

SAME

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK

What’s the most annoying thing your fellow nail techs do in salon?

1. Borrowing and never returning my product 2. Using and abusing my station when I’m not there 3. Turning up/down the thermostat so I’m HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN SEPTEMBER 2019 too hot/cold COMPARE WITH SEPTEMBER 2018?

18

METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a cross -section of the industry and were polled by email from September 27 to October 7, regarding business for the month to September 30.

Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by salons that offer nail services among other treatments.

The figures given represent the average score for each answer.

Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

62% 29% BETTER

9% WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/10/2019 14:57

Ward’s World

51

TOPof

your

GAME

No business can survive without ongoing investment, especially in this age of online transparency, writes HELLEN WARD

I

’ve just returned from a star-studded party in Sardinia. € recommended a list of hotels, and I think I must The host have drawn the short straw and picked the Italian version of Fawlty Towers – not that you’d know it from the pictures and video on the glossy website.

The hospitality industry shares many similarities with our sector. Both focus on customer experience, offer very personal services and guests/clients have myriad businesses to choose from. However, each market faces its own challenges – with hotels it’s the threat of Airbnb, with us it’s the advent of at-home services and freelance contractors.

Doesn’t it say everything about the hotel when the first thing the receptionist says is not “welcome, enjoy your stay and let me know if there’s anything you need” but “beach towels are €3 a day to hire and if you don’t return it you will be charged”?

The writing was on the wall for my trip.

Price factor

akin to sticking a band aid on a heart attack. As soon as you give up on a business, it’s like a ticking timebomb. Client numbers will fall and the short-term fix of sustaining turnover through increased prices only masks the issue. But you can’t hide; it’s going to become evident very quickly, especially in this internet era. This was a hotel that was unloved, uncared for and just milked for its money – no reinvestment, no attention to detail, no customer service, no decent staff – it was floundering to its natural conclusion; closure. But I was still paying full market value for it.

You can only charge what you’re worth – people have choice. There is no shortcut

The hotel wasn’t cheap and one of the other party guests, being a hotel critic, was equally unimpressed; he valued it at €70 rather than the €250 they charged. And therein lies the rub; the hotel was charging for something it clearly wasn’t delivering. Nobody minds paying (within reason) if they get what they perceive to be value for money. But how can €250 per night warrant a room in dire need of refurbishment, horrendous customer service, junk and rubbish strewn around the badly maintained public areas, inedible food and extortionate drinks? In fact, what the hotel really needed was to be closed, bulldozed and reopened after a total rethink.

It struck me that someone had seriously given up on this hotel as a business. And in not knowing what to do, they’d simply put the prices up to cover up the huge problems. It’s

Short-term fix

If you want to run a business in that way, it’s only a matter of time until you’re found out. You simply have to love and nurture a business if you want to sustain it. You can only charge what you’re worth – people have choice. There is no shortcut.

The outcome? I gathered my photographic evidence, and on check out, presented it to the manager, who hid, and refused to come out of her office until I insisted, because “everyone is complaining.” I issued my rehearsed ultimatum; I would put my photographic evidence on TripAdvisor unless she discounted my bill. She argued that my opinion was subjective; I informed her that health and safety issues (broken tiles and live electrical wires next to the swimming pool where children were playing) were not. “I’m just the manager,” she said, passing the buck. “The owner doesn’t care – tell him”. Don’t worry, when his business fails spectacularly, he’ll know, I assured her. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Beauty Federation (NBF).

Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Business Tips

55

ask

the EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

As we move into winter, how can I advise clients on seasonal skincare?

During this period of seasonal change, it’s necessary to identify any damage summer may have caused the skin so that we can feed, nourish and prepare it for the harsh weather ahead. Summer’s environmental aggressors, such as UV and pollution, can produce cellular damage and a reduction of skin protection.

As we approach winter, a few subtle changes to a client’s skincare routine can have a measurable effect on how the skin copes with extreme temperature changes, from outdoor cold and wind to artificial heat indoors. Always use a hand mirror during the consultation phase and encourage clients to really look at their skin. Ask them how it feels and what changes they have noticed after the summer. Do they remember having any skin problems last winter?

Talk through how their activities change from summer to winter to further assess their skin’s needs. Together, you can then devise a simple action plan to slot into their existing skincare routine without over-complicating things.

This is a great time of year to encourage customers to start using a chemical exfoliator with glycolic acid and AHAs to restore the skin at the deepest level while treating chronic dryness, pigmentation, wrinkles and dehydration. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is also the perfect winter ingredient. It holds 1,000 times its own weight in moisture and works well in both serums

and creams. A serum with a low molecular weight of HA will work more in the dermis, preventing long-term damage, while a highmolecular-weight HA in a moisturiser will give more surface protection from the cold. Finally, don’t forget to provide advice on products that give HEV blue light protection as most of us tend to spend the winter months curled up in front of the TV or on our phone or tablet.

Gina Baker is training manager at distributor Totally UK, where she oversees education and treatment development for Germaine de Capuccini, Universal Contour Wrap and London Spa.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/10/2019 09:05

56 Business Tips

Should I analyse clients’ nails before every single treatment?

How can I drive waxing sales throughout autumn and winter?

While waxing has without question become a year-round beauty treatment for a percentage of salons’ clientele, there is unfortunately an element of summer boom and winter bust in waxing for some businesses.

To ensure a transition between seasons that’s as smooth as the results of your waxing treatments, there are two options to encourage continued and new custom throughout winter – diversify and educate.

In winter, regular customers may either leave longer between waxing appointments or choose to wait until they are not covered up from top to toe. So, the colder months are the ideal time to diversify your offering and wax the bits that are on display with a facial waxing menu. Eyebrow treatments continue to be incredibly popular and a wax can easily be sold as an add-on to other facial treatments.

Look to incorporate waxing into overall beauty packages or as a preparation treatment – for example, a lip, cheekbone and eyebrow wax with a makeover or facial. Educate clients on the benefits of a regular waxing routine during winter, which will bring them the best results come summer. Maintaining a consistent routine over time will help the client’s hair growth cycle to sync, eventually creating lighter, weaker and more even hair growth. As the hair growth cycle becomes David Sneddon is operations and marketing manager for uniform, waxing treatments will Hive of Beauty, which offers a remove hair at the anagen comprehensive waxing range phase, which is ideal for creating designed for professional use. longer-lasting, smooth results.

Whichever treatment your client chooses, every appointment should begin with an in-depth nail analysis, even if you see that client on a regular basis.

Our natural nails, and the skin surrounding them, can change with time and there are many reasons as to why that may happen, including age, ill health, pregnancy, and general changes to lifestyle.

Nail and skin analysis is essential to provide a safe and effective service every time you do a treatment. Start by sanitising your own and your client’s hands and nails. During this process, you need to pay attention to their skin; is it in a healthy condition with no breaks? Check every nail very carefully. Are all of the nails healthy?

Is there any discoloration or dryness?

Are there ridges or curvature to the nail bed? Look for signs of any flaking and peeling of the nail.

Always make comprehensive notes because this will help you to refresh your memory on the client’s next appointment. This information will help you to plan the treatment as well as retail products suitable to your client’s nail needs.

Monika Kupień is a nail expert, Nail Harmony Gelish educator in the UK and runs Monika Kupień Beauty Academy in York.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

055-060 PBNOV19 Ask the Experts.indd 56

09/10/2019 09:07

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Business Tips

58

How can I promote party make-up to my 40-plus-aged clients?

What’s the science behind fat freezing?

A popular body-contouring treatment among end users is “fat freezing”, scientifically known as cryolipolysis. This is non-surgical technology that eliminates fat cells in the treatment area. Cryolipolysis works by using a handpiece that creates a vacuum when placed over the target area, drawing the fat pocket into the hand piece.

The temperature is then lowered to -5°C on the localised area, causing the content of the fat cells to become crystallised. This procedure causes necrosis, or cell death, without harming the surrounding tissue. The remaining contents of the fat cells are then disposed of naturally through the body’s lymphatic system. As the body takes several months to flush out the dead fat cells, results are usually seen approximately eight to 12 weeks after treatment. A single cryolipolysis treatment can kill 20-40% of fat cells in the area.

A course of shockwave therapy can be used following cryolipolysis to speed up and enhance the results seen. During shockwave therapy, a probe is placed against the treatment area and emits radial waves through the skin as it passes over. In doing this, the waves speed up the breakdown of fat cells and encourage lymphatic drainage. This process needs Joanne Leahy is head of to be completed immediately training at 3D-lipo, which offers a range of options for after the cryolipolysis handpiece cryotherapy and shockwave has been removed and followed therapy including the new 3D-lipo up with three additional weekly Ultimatepro machine. shockwave treatments.

A fundamental part of being a successful make-up artist is tailoring your services to clients’ needs.

Your customers should be at ease knowing that their make-up artist is capable of delivering a bespoke service depending on their skin type, colour and age, as well as the event that they are attending.

Promoting your service as an all-round experience is just as important as promoting your products, skills and expertise. Not all makeovers have to be the full-on glam that we see on social media and this is especially important when working with, and marketing to, a more mature audience. As skin matures, make-up routines should evolve and the key is to enhance client’s best features while providing a radiant, youthful finish.

Using cream products on mature skin can instantly add a youthful glow and make the skin appear supple. Kryolan has just launched a collection of cosmetic counter displays with a range of products to suit all skin types and ages. Investing in a comprehensive range will also help you target and promote your party make-up services to the more mature demographic.

Gemma Horner is Kryolan’s head of education and part of the Kryolan Pro Team. She works internationally on high-fashion, editorial, theatre, bodypainting and camouflage make-up.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/10/2019 16:51

60 Business Tips

How can I help my therapists get over their fear of retailing?

How can I safely incorporate CBD oil treatments into my business?

Cannabidiol, often shortened to CBD, is such a universal product; its benefits are numerous, and it has powerful properties to treat mind, body and soul. The critical aspect of working with this ingredient is having a thorough understanding and knowledge of it so that you can demystify the predictable connotations surrounding the belief that it has psychoactive properties. Then you can safely manage expectations and educate your clients.

Proper training is, therefore, paramount to ensure that you and your staff are completely confident and competent to offer this particular service.

At the Potting Shed we have “dope-free” blends that have names such as weed, pot and grass, to match our botanical theme, but our products are, of course, entirely free from tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), which is the psychoactive compound in cannabis that creates a high.

We’ve sourced organic full-spectrum oil, which contains terpenes. This can assist in treating a range of conditions, from anxiety and intestinal issues, to inflammation and sleep disorders.

We’ve created protocols that can be immersed in many different treatments. Our Getting Stoned massage, for example, has improved our clients’ sleep quality and diminished their stress levels Sam Pearce is founder of the immeasurably. We now offer Potting Shed Spa in Yorkshire, training to salons and spas to where she offers CBD educate other businesses on treatments, as well as The Greenhouse Training Academy. how to provide these types of treatment effectively.

Selling retail products is often either daunting to therapists or an afterthought, particularly when they want to gain a loyal customer base without scaring them off with pushy sales strategies. But there are ways to help your team gain experience in more subtle ways of increasing retail revenue.

The key is to remind therapists to think of it as helping clients find the best products to maintain the results from the fantastic treatment they’ve just had. They are the skincare experts and clients will want their advice. The more confidence they have in their recommendations, the more likely the client is to take notice.

Try offering therapists a retail incentive and give the staff member who sells the most retail a reward. Remember to pro-rata this for part-time employees.

Rather than upselling individually, encourage your therapists to build retail into treatment packages, giving the client an incentive to purchase at that moment.

Whether you have samples or can create an interactive display, encourage clients to trial your products. Let them touch, feel and smell the selection.

Finally, the most subtle and effective sales tool is encouraging your therapists to use the products they’re retailing, as this shows therapists believe in the products they use and prescribe.

Laura Jones is senior product manager for Sienna X, where she works closely with professional accounts.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

055-060 PBNOV19 Ask the Experts.indd 60

09/10/2019 09:08

EYE CREAM

Brighten your eyes!

Luxurious hydrating and brightening eye cream contains caffeine and white flower extracts to help increase circulation, reduce dark circles and under eye puffiness.

To stock ApraiseÂŽ in your salon or spa, find a local stockist at www.apraise.co.uk

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65 Interview

Talking to...

Armand

Beasley

W

The celebrity make-up artist tells Eve Oxberry why the time is right to launch his first product line, and what pro MUAs need to do to stand out in this Instagram-first market

ith some 25 years in the industry under his belt, make-up artist Armand Beasley’s career has spanned editorial, fashion and celebrity work, as well as presenting, hosting and judging.

Having started life as an actor, he fell into beauty by taking a job on a make-up counter between roles. His unusual blend of charisma and technical skill soon saw him snapped up for beauty presenting roles on shows such as GMTV and This Morning and earned him loyal clients such as actor Goldie Hawn and singer Nicole Scherzinger. Also one to give back to the industry, you’ll regularly find Beasley at Professional Beauty events, hosting the Warpaint stages and judging teams.

In fact, the only corner of the make-up world he’s yet to venture into is product development – until now. Beasley’s first product, Pro Body Glow, hit the market just a couple of weeks ago, launching at Professional Beauty North, and

will soon be followed up with a full range of natural, vegan and sustainable colour cosmetics.

“I’ve been approached many times over the years to consult on brand launches but always said no, because I’d have very little control and I just can’t be involved in anything I don’t fully believe in,” he says. “I’m a big fan of natural health and beauty but I’ve been disappointed with the quality of products coming through from a natural make-up perspective and I felt there was a gap in the market for a professional brand that was ethical, crueltyfree, but also really high functioning.”

While Pro Body Glow (a balm that gives a subtle ‘red carpet’ sheen to the skin while also hydrating) is a one-off collaboration with natural brand BuzzBalm, Beasley is developing his core range from scratch. “I’ve spent six years formulating it,” he says, >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Interview

Photography: David V. Barron

66

adding that packaging – in particular the avoidance of single-use plastics – has been one of the biggest challenges. “If you think, as a make-up artist, about the number of disposables you get through, the amount of single-use plastic we’re using

The amount of singleuse plastic we’re using as a profession is obscene and it’s really down to us to make a stand

as profession is obscene and it’s really down to us to make a stand and educate our customers as well as our peers,” he says. “There are some great bamboo wands out there but sometimes even those are wrapped in plastic then put into another box with more plastic.”

It’s not just plastics though, Beasley is just as passionate about the traceability and sustainability of the ingredients used in cosmetic formulations. “We also need to be careful about corn starch, for example, because a lot of it comes from the US and is genetically modified, which doesn’t do us or the health of our soil any good,” he says. “I’m very much aware that everything has a source so we need to make sure we’re respecting that particular source.”

With natural and sustainably sourced products gaining more traction in the mainstream market, Beasley is also tipping this as a key influence on the make-up trends we can expect to see coming through next year.

2020 trends “You’re still going to get some looks that are very experimental but I think we’ll see more that are very stripped back too, so moving away from the tattoos and full-glamour and focusing on the health of the skin, embracing freckles and lines,” he says.

Other trends to prepare for in 2020, he adds, include a stronger juxtaposition between textures and a closer fusion between make-up and technology. “There’s a lot of gloss placement at the moment around the eye area, mixed with very matte lips and I think that contrast is going to be seen more on the body and a lot in nail art as well,” he says.

“There’s going to be evolution in technology too, not only as a consumer but as an MUA, so you can create trends and people will tap into them on their smartphones to see if those look suit them.”

Solid ground

Clockwise from top: Beasley at the Warpaint Championships 2019 in London; Beasley’s work on singer Natasha Hamilton; new product Pro Body Glow

While the evolution of technology may bring new opportunities for make-up artists, one of Beasley’s strongest pieces of advice to those looking to take their career to the next level, is not to place all their focus online. “Everyone with an Instagram account says they’re an MUA now, whether they have a qualification or not,” he says. “It’s great that you can create a work of art but can you do it without the aid >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Interview

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KEY DATES Photography: Alan Strutt

1994 Armand Beasley makes his first foray into make-up on the Clinique counter at Kendals department store in Manchester 1996 Following a stint as YSL’s make-up expert, Beasley joins Givenchy as national make-up artist, travelling the world for editorial and fashion work 1998 Joins House of Fraser as its first personal beauty advisor, where he is spotted

by TV producers and approached to contribute to regional North West TV programme Granada Tonight 2000 Begins a freelance career, building up more TV work as onscreen MUA and beauty expert on national platforms such as Channel 4’s How To Look Good Naked and ITV’s GMTV and Changing Faces 2003 Having reported on The Oscars for GMTV, he is chosen as Bafta’s official spokesperson for make-up, which leads to work with many celebrity clients 2011 Begins working with Professional Beauty as a lead judge for the Warpaint competition and the Professional Beauty Awards 2019 Secures more TV work, including a stint on This Morning. Launches first product, Pro Body Glow, with plans for a full natural product range next year

Clockwise from left: Beasley working on actor Goldie Hawn for ITV’s Loose Women; a finished look for actor Amber Rose Revah; one of Beasley’s previous promo shots

of a filter? Because there are so many people doing it, you need something that makes you stand out.” To achieve lasting success, he advises doing as much live work as possible, to refine your craft. “Some MUAs are not very good talkers. They’re very artistic, which is fantastic when you’re at home doing it in front of a screen to your followers, but if you’re going to go out on shoots or get on a stage, you have to be able to communicate what you’re doing and how people can take those tips and use them at home,” he says. “Working on a shopfloor or in a salon are great for your communication skills, your patience and your speed, all of which are so important for professional MUAs.” Less time spent with technology, and more dedicated to being outside among nature, is also key to creativity, adds Beasley.

“You might see a beautiful leaf and think,

‘wow I love the texture, the shades – the russet red fading into the burnt orange, I’m going to create that on an eye’, rather than scrolling through Instagram looking for inspiration from looks that have already been done – and probably airbrushed.”

On the inside Having fallen into a make-up career somewhat accidentally himself, Beasley says it was a fascination with people that has kept him here for so long. “I enjoy the psychology and the power of make-up and how it can make you feel,” he adds.

“So, a real focus for me now is getting across the message that you’re good enough as you are. Don’t get me wrong, I love transformation, but don’t be a slave to it. Make-up is your wardrobe to express how you feel today, it’s not about being a prisoner to a certain look with hair extensions, false lashes, lip filler. So many young people lose their identity and think this particular look is going to bring them happiness.”

Next year, Beasley will be spreading his message via even more live events including the second Make-up Week, a live festival he helped launch in Mumbai this year in association with Professional Beauty India. “I love travelling and India is a fascinating country so I want to do more there and more on an international level in general,” he says. “Presenting and communication are my passion, but so is integrity and I think some of that has been lost in our industry because there are a lot of people are setting up very quickly so I want to champion creativity but with proper training and accreditation.” PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/10/2019 17:07

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Acne Pigmentation

73

Mission CONTROL

Treating hyperpigmentation and scarring caused by adult acne can be a tough task for therapists, especially with clients wanting immediate results. AMANDA PAULEY talks to the pros about how to treat the issue and manage client expectations

D

espite new movements focused on making post-acne hyperpigmentation and scarring less “taboo”, such as Dermalogica’s #skinindividual campaign which aims to reduce the stigma around acne, the physical and mental marks left by the inflammatory skin condition are still a big concern for Brits.

Research collated from sources including the Happiness Research Institute and the British Journal of Dermatology has shown the impact acne can have on an adult’s quality of life, with 44% of people with the condition now suffering with at least one mental health condition.

So, it’s easy to understand clients’ frustrations when they think they’ve reached the finish line of their skin health marathon, getting those pesky acne symptoms under control, to then be presented with the long-lasting after effects of the

breakout – stubborn red marks, discolouration and scars.

“The number of clients I’ve seen who tell me they’ve been everywhere and tried everything, and that doctors and skin therapists have told them they might just have to live with it, is astonishing,” says Pamela Marshall, clinical aesthetician and co-founder of Mortar & Milk in Fulham, London. “[The industry] needs to be doing more.”

One of the biggest challenges for salons and spas is building trust with clients who may struggle to open up, having grown up in a social mediadominated world obsessed with “perfection”. The starting point is educating clients on the causes and differences between post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and acne scars, and how these conditions can be managed with treatment approaches from a trusted professional. >

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Acne Pigmentation

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What causes post-acne hyperpigmentation?

One of the biggest misconceptions you might face is clients thinking hyperpigmentation is the same as a scar. “Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) comes from inflammation in the skin,” says Marshall.

“When the skin is wounded, with an acne spot for example, it inflames and triggers melanocyte production, which can lead to excessive melanin coming to the surface, causing those dark or red marks.”

Marshall explains that melanin can also spread to the surrounding area near the injury, meaning it doesn’t matter how small or inconsequential the spot is, it has the potential to leave behind a larger mark after the infection has cleared, which could linger for weeks, months or, in some cases, even years.

It’s also important to know that darker Fitzpatrick skin types have a higher propensity for increased melanin production when wounded, which means postacne hyperpigmentation is much more common in clients of colour.

“We all have a similar amount of melanin but in darker skin tones the melanocyte cells are bigger and more active, which is why these clients will hyperpigment more as a result,” says Dija Ayodele, founder of Black Skin Directory, an online resource connecting women of colour to expert skincare professionals in the UK.

says Marshall. “I also tell clients not to use AHAs more than once or twice a week because used too often they can interfere with a healthy skin barrier function, causing inflammation.”

Niacinamide and certain mushroom extracts are also good at reducing pigment, while vitamin C is cited as another wonder ingredient, “as it’s a natural way to fade red and dark marks and rejuvenate skin’s clarity,” explains Dr Howard Murad, founder of the eponymous brand.

“Retinol can also help stimulate cell renewal and improve texture.” Using sunscreen daily is also crucial because UVA and UVB rays can make discolouration of hyperpigmentation much worse.

All the experts recommend taking photos of your client at every step of their treatment journey, which you can show them if they’re feeling disheartened with the speed of the results. “Clients look at themselves in the mirror every day so they don’t always take into account the changes that are occurring,” adds Ayodele.

“Having these photos in your arsenal means you can show them exactly how much they’ve progressed, while explaining that if the condition took X amount of time to form then it will take time to clear. It’s about managing expectations. Don’t promise flawlessness, promise to improve the appearance of their condition.” >

“It’s about managing expectations. Don’t promise flawlessness, promise to improve the appearance of their condition”

How can it be treated?

The good news for clients is that post-acne hyperpigmentation can naturally fade over time, but how quickly varies person-to-person. A treatment and homecare routine that helps them achieve skin health will aid the process, using the right ingredients to boost cell turnover without causing excessive inflammation or damage to the skin’s barrier function.

“In clinic, we often start with a lower pH peel and give clients products to use at home to increase skin hydration and barrier function, then we move on to microneedling, which is excellent for forcing skin to remodel itself by building new collagen and elastin,”

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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A Solution for Every Skin

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03/10/2019 12:26

Acne Pigmentation

76

What causes acne scarring?

Adult acne can also leave scars, which most commonly occur when the serious types of spots (nodules and cysts) burst and damage the nearby skin. “A scar refers to a dent or change in the skin structure due to loss or excess accumulation of the skin’s scaffolding proteins after severe inflammation from a healing breakout,” says Candice Gardener, digital education manager for skincare brand Dermalogica.

Acne scars also come in different types, with the most common being ice pick, which appear as small, deep holes that look like the skin has been punctured with a sharp object; boxcar, round or oval depressions or craters; and rolling, caused by bands of scar tissue that form under the skin, giving it an uneven, “rolling” appearance.

“People with bad acne scars can feel very self-conscious and often end up going to great lengths to hide them. The situation can be made worse if that person feels like they are being stared at,” says Esther Fieldgrass, founder of clinic chain EF Medispa. “Therefore, you need to communicate a realistic outcome to the client, which you always aim, but can never promise, to exceed.”

so to speak. I think knowing when to refer makes you a better therapist,” adds Ayodele.

Vitamin A taken orally, topically and in treatment can also help reduce scarring, explains Tracy Tamaris, director of education

How can it be treated?

Fieldgrass recommends microneedling, derma stamp, laser and specialised peels as effective scar treatments to help to rebuild the dermal scaffolding and plump out the skin, but warns to be mindful of the client’s skin type and medical history, including contraindications like keloid scarring.

Marshall agrees a cautious approach is best. “For boxcar scarring, for example, I use microneedling infused with hyaluronic acid and then let it heal for at least six weeks, putting the long-term health of the skin above anything else,” she says.

However, if the scar is a particularly deep, textural one then it may be worth referring the client to a specialist.

“It’s about getting the best outcome for your client. I sometimes do referrals to dermatologists who can inject in and around those scars with fillers to plump up the skin and give a smoother canvas,

at the International Institute for Anti-Ageing (IIAA), which distributes skincare brand Environ.

“Skin that is vitamin A-deprived will become less active and damage to DNA will not be repaired, which means melanin distribution will be irregular and collagen and elastin production will decline with poor-quality production.”

The success of the client’s skin journey will rely on their homecare and lifestyle choices as much as the in-salon treatments. “One way to deal with acne scars is to help prevent their appearance in the first place – clients need to know that picking at the skin leads to scars and that sun exposure can aggravate them,” says Murad.

When advertising your services, use a selection of before-and-after photos on different types of acne scarring so people can see “real” results. “It’s [about] not letting the condition affect the [client’s] confidence or self-worth,” explains Murad. PB

“People with bad acne scars can feel very self-conscious and often end up going to great lengths to hide them”

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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2 STEPS. READY TO USE. EASY 2 APPLY. IMMEDIATE RESULTS

STEP 1 PEEL Purifying Solution.

Helps remove dead skin cells and impurities, resulting in a smoother skin texture. The peel step aids the penetration of actives from the GLOW solution. Contains Glycolic and Mandelic Acid.

Available in 3 sizes for 1, 5, 10 treatments

STEP 2 GLOW Skin Bloom Solution.

Moisturises and protects the skin against external aggressors and pollutants.

Enhances skin texture, tone and radiance. Contains Vitamins A, C & E. Moisturiser Complex.

Brightening & Filling Solution.

Concentrated doses of cutting edge ingredients help to visibly smooth, firm, plump and recondition the skin.

Targets photo-damage and uneven pigmentation whilst improving the look of fine lines and wrinkles and boosting your glow.

PURIFYER & SKIN BLOOM BRIGHTENING & FILLING PHYTO & SEBUMISS REFINE & ALLURE BEAUTY & BOOST SLEEP & REPAIR BIO & ACTIVE The new PEEL2GLOW system is presented in 2 easy to use 1.5ml glass ampoules with an ampoule opener and a specially designed applicator which is used to deliver the product during treatment in-clinic or at home.

Meeting the needs of your business, delivering high satisfaction to your patients Call us on 01234 313130 info@aestheticsource.com www.aestheticsource.com

Acne Pigmentation

78 Noon Aesthetics Skincare Noon Aesthetics Paraceutical Skincare range, which is exclusively distributed in the UK by Advanced Esthetics Solutions, has been designed to effectively target hyperpigmentation and sun damage. Using the brand’s DermShield Technology, the formulas provide a high concentration of active ingredients with low irritation, helping to fade stubborn marks while preventing unwanted side effects such as irritation and redness.

RRP: from £34 029 2023 1228 (Advanced Esthetics Solutions) noonaesthetics.co.uk

Spot ON

Eight of the best professional products for treating scars and post-acne hyperpigmentation

Alphascience Alpha Bright Serum

SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum

Alpha Bright Serum is an ideal addition to acne-prone clients’ skincare arsenal, packed with natural active ingredients and advanced antioxidant stabilisation techniques designed to fade stubborn red marks. The product’s molecular combination works to neutralise the pollutants and free radicals that help cause pigmentation, reducing brown spots and evening out skin tone. The product is stocked at and distributed via EF Medispa.

Trade: £31.50 for 20ml 020 3918 3856 efskin.com

As the new kid on the block, this multi-phase treatment serum is making waves for targeting pigmentation triggered by inflammatory processes such as hormonal changes and acne scarring.

It delivers a brighter, more even skin tone by reducing stubborn brown patches using 1.8% tranexamic acid, 5% niacinamide and 5% sulfonic acid – a synthetically derived acid that activates natural enzymes in the skin for even exfoliation.

Trade: £85 for 30ml 0800 028 2331 skinceuticals.co.uk

Mesoestetic C.Prof 223 Skinmark Solution Designed for use with microneedling treatments specifically for acne scarring, this product stimulates cell repair and restructures the protein network of the dermis, providing hydration and enhancing elasticity and firmness in the skin. Active ingredients in the formulation include darutoside for tissue regeneration; chlorella vulgaris extract to increase collagen synthesis; and organic silicon for a restructuring action.

Trade: £90 for 5 x 10ml 01625 529540 mesoestetic.co.uk

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Acne Pigmentation

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Nimue Day Fader Plus

Murad InvisiScar Resurfacing Treatment This hero product from Murad is formulated to work on the size, depth, texture, thickness and discolouration of blemish scars, containing salicylic acid and glucosamine to accelerate cell turnover, light diffusers to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, and pure vitamin C and hydroxytyrosol to brighten dark spots and uneven skin tone. It also contains tiger grass to hydrate and support the skin’s natural barrier.

Trade: £18.96 for 15ml 0844 472 7050 murad.co.uk

Nimue’s Day Fader Plus moisturiser combines the brand’s patented Diglucosyl Gallic Acid molecule with ingredients such as microencapsulated vitamin C, nicotinamide and octadecenedioic acid to stop the melanogenesis process and prevent melanin transfer, reducing hyperpigmentation. It also blocks UV-induced DNA damage and protects against thermal ageing.

Trade: £34.95 for 50ml 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Dermalogica Age Bright Spot Fader A key player in the brand’s adult acne Active Clearing Line, Age Bright Spot Fader is a brightening treatment that reduces the appearance of active breakouts as well as post-breakout marks.

The formula contains salicylic acid, which helps clear breakouts, and niacinamide and hexylrescorcinol, which work synergistically to fade post-acne hyperpigmentation and improve uneven skin tone – all without over-drying the skin.

RRP: £40.50 for 15ml 0800 917 7147 dermalogica.co.uk

Image Skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Crème This brightening treatment targets hyperpigmentation, dark spots, melasma and discolouration using an array of encapsulated ingredients that are released over 48 hours via the brand’s Vectorize Technology. Phyto agent sulfura white inhibits melanin formation, reducing dark spots and discolouration, while dermapep blocks alphaMSH and reduces inflammation from stimuli such as UV radiation.

Trade: £55 for 48g 0345 504 0461 imageskincare.co.uk

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09/10/2019 09:21

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Trend Watch

82

Raise YOUR

brow game

Brow lamination promises to deliver thick, brushed-up brows with minimal upkeep. Amanda Pauley gets the lowdown on the treatment trend that’s predicted to be bigger than microblading

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he brow market is being transformed once again with a game-changing treatment that experts predict will give microblading a run for its money. Brow lamination is a semi-permanent grooming treatment originating from Russia that creates natural-looking, brushed-up brows in just 30 minutes.

It uses the hair clients already have rather than adding extra strokes via make-up or semi-permanent techniques, giving results that last between six and eight weeks. Working in a similar way to a hair perm or a lash lift, lamination is like a keratin treatment for the brows – hairs are straightened using a chemical solution then set in place facing an upwards direction to give clients that “just combed” look.

It has no downtime and minimal aftercare.

“It’s the new trick to get thick brows with that brushed-up effect without the need for semi-permanent make-up. It’s also less expensive than microblading, which is a big deal,” says Yana Gushchina, owner of BBM Brow Bar in Knightsbridge, London, which was one of the first salons in the UK to offer the treatment.

The treatment begins with a consultation to find the client’s perfect brow shape before a thin coat of glue is

applied and hairs are combed into place.

A brow-perming solution is then applied, followed by a setting lotion then, usually, a hydrating product to prevent dryness. In most cases the treatment is also combined with a brow tint to give extra definition.

Brow lamination is ideal for clients who spend hours grooming unruly brows as well as those who have minimal hair from over-plucking, because it creates the illusion of thicker, feathery arches.

“It gives clients that definition without the need to fill in their brows with make-up – it’s an everyday timesaver,” explains Namita Thapa, owner of Wow Brow Bar in Bournemouth, which offers the service.

Plus, with 50% of UK salons believing it to be the next big trend, according to PB’s August Insider survey, it was only a matter of time before extensive training in the technique started emerging. We round-up four of the best brow lamination courses to have hit the market. PB

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HiBrow Lamination Course

HD Brows Browsculpt Course Having launched on October 2 to tie in with National Brow Day, the new course from the cult beauty brand offers what HD Brows says is a “unique twist” on the brow lamination technique. On the one-day Browsculpt Course, stylists are taught how to transform a client’s brow shape – whether they want a textured finish to the bulb or correction to uneven tails, and how to achieve that ultimate brow lamination symmetry by targeting certain areas, with the finished look said to last up to six weeks.

The brand recommends stylists have a qualification in eyebrow removal techniques, or undergo the HD Brows course prior to this, so they have the core background knowledge of how to create a bespoke brow.

Cost: £200. To book, call 0113 224 7900 or visit hdbrows.com

The Eyelash Design Company (EDC) has added brow lamination to its collection of professional eyebrow treatments, promising to deliver perfectly groomed brows that last up to eight weeks. The HiBrow Lamination treatment takes 30 minutes to perform and involves aligning brow hairs into shape using products developed by EDC’s in-house experts, such as the style-fixing product, which straightens curved hairs to ensure symmetry and fullness.

There’s also an optional treatment add-on of the brand’s tint system Quick Intense Colour to give extra definition, which takes the treatment time up to 45 minutes. The one-day course covers both practical and theory learning and is available to new and experienced brow techs.

Cost: £295. To book, call 020 8500 9028 or email service@edc-ltd.uk

Trend Watch

83

Leigh Blackwell Training Academy Brow Lamination Course

Hello Gorgeous Brow Lamination Course This one-day course from the brow and lash academy claims to equip stylists in creating standout laminated brows, with detailed training on the structure and function of the skin, how to achieve eyebrow symmetry, health and safety and aftercare. Students are also required to complete case studies to ensure the treatment is performed to the highest standard.

All attendees will receive a kit bag, which includes a treatment manual, Lifting Cream, Neutralising Lotion, Moisturising Serum, Bonder, a mascara wand and more, as well as lifetime support from the academy. The academy is running courses in Blackburn, ThorntonCleveleys, Worcester, Edinburgh and more.

Cost: £249. Book by calling 0333 121 0299 or email info@hellogorgeousbeauty.co.uk

The academy’s founder Leigh Blackwell is launching her own accredited brow lamination course and products this month called The London Brow Lift.

The one-day course covers theory in the morning – which looks you can achieve with brow lamination and how the chemicals soften hairs to make them more uniform – and the practical element in the afternoon, where students team up to demo the look on one other.

The head academy is located in Cheltenham but Blackwell also has trainers in Bristol, London, Manchester and Northampton. Therapists needs to be trained in brow shaping and tinting, with a minimum of six months’ experience.

Cost: £299. To book, call 01242 373203 or visit lbtrainingacademy.co.uk

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Introducing

Girl meets

BRUSH

Left: make-up: Jen Chauhan (jenchauhan.com), photography: Wayne Lewis, model: India Coyle Right: hair and make-up: Sarah Meyrick (sarahmeyrickhmua.co.uk), photography: Anthony Crothers at Skint Creative, model: Sarah Elizabeth Lewis (Core MGMT)

Promotional Feature

86

Girl Meets Brush - the Academy is focused on creating success within the make-up industry. Its online courses and membership programme for aspiring pros provide growth, as well as a platform to champion emerging talent

S

howcasing creativity and talent is paramount at Girl Meets Brush. Two artists who have excelled within the company’s academy online course and community this year are Jen Chauhan and Sarah Meyrick, whose work is pictured above. The images are from the final make-up brief task within the academy. Titled Clean Beauty, the task allowed MUAs to produce high-end, timeless images to create a professional portfolio.

Founded by Celebrity MUA Lynne Mills, Girl Meets Brush is no ordinary online academy and is fast becoming an industry leader, producing make-up artists who are equipped to forge successful careers and businesses.

From becoming published make-up artists, to working backstage at London Fashion Week, students who have completed the courses really learn how to stand out from the crowd.

For more info on courses please visit girlmeetsbrush.co.uk/onlinemakeupacademy Girl Meets Brush also produces a range of professional make-up brushes and has a network of make-up artists as stockists and amabassadors throughout the UK. Its brush sets are the perfect companion to make-up lessons and makeovers. With flexible retail options, they are easy to incorporate into packages, whether you’re a mobile freelancer, salon or studio-

based artist, or a business owner. They have been used for celebrity and fashion shoots, and were recently an official backstage product at London Fashion Week.

For more information or to enquire about becoming a stockist or brand ambassador, contact Girl Meets Brush via girlmeetsbrush.co.uk/brushes professionalbeauty.co.uk

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09/10/2019 11:11

Wellness

87

Wellness

for women

With women increasingly seeking out communal spaces to share support, GEORGIA SEAGO asks psychotherapist and healer Fiona Arrigo how salons and spas can evolve to meet changing consumer needs

F

iona Arrigo is a psychotherapist, biodynamic psychologist, intuitive healer and mentor. She founded The Arrigo Programme to help clients achieve life transformation. She runs global retreats and curates personal treatment programmes and group events for women, such as wellness talks, goddess gatherings and meditations at A Place To Heal, The Arrigo Programme’s London outpost.

How do you see the relationship between women and beauty spaces evolving?

“It’s an age-old adage, but beauty really does come from within, and it feels as though there’s an increasing awareness of this now. Women are coming back to themselves, looking inwards to access their own vitality and glow, rather than seeking solely to have it ‘applied’ to them by way of a treatment or procedure.

“Healing spaces have cast off their old ‘hippie’ reputation and are now perceived as just as glamorous and inviting as a beauty salon or spa. Female connection has always been central to beauty; look at how women go for spa days together. That sense of connection is just as rejuvenating as the treatment itself.”

How can traditional beauty businesses support clients to commune and work on inner peace?

“This is already beginning to happen: treatment spaces are increasingly calming and nurturing in appearance, providing a cocooning environment for their clients.

Positive affirmations are displayed on walls and lush greenery is incorporated into décor. All of these things have the effect of making beauty spaces a place to rest, as well as to perk up the appearance.

“The traditional stack of consumer-facing women’s magazines, many of which are full of negativity and standards for unhappy comparisons, could be removed in favour of, for instance, beautiful photography books in reception or relaxation areas. Quiet, meditative spaces could be created for clients to self-commune in while preparing for their treatment. Therapists and practitioners could also make use of these waiting times with guided meditations or nurturing massage.

“We’re experiencing a collective shift where we understand sisterhood and that it’s not cool to undermine other women, and this is all a response to that. If we as women learn and heal, the ripple effects lead to change in others, our relationships and the planet because we’re being peaceful within our day, which is vital.”

How can the wellness industry make healing spaces and practices more accessible to all women?

“Creating nurturing, welcoming and affordable spaces is just one element. Women traditionally have an interesting approach to looking after themselves: it’s seen as an indulgence, something frequently associated with a ‘treat’ or even, often, a sense of guilt.

This can be a real barrier to women accessing what they need. Modern women meet the needs of so many others that they often end up sacrificing their own.

“An emotionally responsible beauty industry would move away from this idea of indulgence and towards self-care. Actively encouraging women to come in with other women is also key for establishing and maintaining that sense of connection with support networks.” PB

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Untitled-18 1

08/10/2019 12:15

Spa Focus

89

Picture

of HEALTH Offering a health MOT in spa that gives clients a reassuring once-over is becoming the new norm. Amanda Pauley finds out how Homefield Grange Retreat in Northhamptonshire has nailed this in-depth body service

W

ith a growing number of consumers now turning to spas rather than doctors for a greater understanding of their bodies, wanting a preventative rather than reactive approach to health and wellbeing, offering programmes that deliver this in-depth concept is a winning strategy.

One location that’s leading the way in providing clients with the opportunity for a health MOT is wellness resort Homefield Grange in Northamptonshire, which added a £1.7 million hot and cold spa area to its business at the start of this year.

Not only does the Living Well Spa feature an extensive thermal suite with a Himalayan salt steam room, herbal sauna, aroma showers, ice trough, hydro pool, rasul, hammam and bathing room, but these facilities perfectly match the business’s pre-existing nutritional and mental wellbeing programmes, and diagnostic and holistic therapies, enabling staff to put together bespoke packages that last one, three, five or seven-days.

These programmes differ to appointments with your local or private healthcare provider, with Homefield’s in-house practitioners having the time to identify issues and potential weaknesses, creating a 360-degree plan of action to address them. The business’s list of experts include yoga teachers, naturopaths, nutritionists, fitness trainers, wellness coaches, colon

hydrotherapists and holistic therapists. The experience is so bespoke that Homefield only takes in 15 clients per week maximum.

“The concept of our spa is not just about pampering, it’s about offering experiences that are designed to lower stress, ease aches and pains, reduce inflammation, assist heart health and more,” says founder and naturopathic practitioner Suzanne Peck (pictured above, centre).

“The business had been running for 12 years without a dedicated spa area, operating out of four treatment rooms with packages focused on detox, weight loss and mindfulness, but we knew having hot and cold facilities proven to aid our programme results would complement Homefield’s offering perfectly.”

The spa’s ethos is based on a holistic approach to wellness, explaining to clients that you can’t look and feel good on the outside if you’re not looking after your inner terrain. “We’re a temptation- and distraction-free environment,” explains Peck. “We’re focused on good health inside-and-out, so we don’t sell things like >

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Spa Focus

90 alcohol, refined sugars, sweets or cake, opting for vegan and plant-based alternatives, as well as offering raw foods and juice cleanses.” This is partnered with daily health talks and food demonstrations to help clients apply simple changes to their lives.

“It’s about empowering people to step away from the excess,” she adds.

Body talk Half of the business’s client base come back yearly for a full-body health MOT, while many others book themselves in pre- or post-operation. “We get customers staying with us support that person emotionally but we would look either side of a surgery who need to prepare themselves or at what their hormones are doing too,” says Peck. recuperate physically and mentally, which involves eating “We would do a urine, blood and saliva test, good food, listening to inspiring talks and experiencing holistic sending them off to the lab to get a true analysis therapies,” says Peck. “The client may want to reverse diabetes of what’s going on in the client’s body. It’s a very or get ready for an operation because their knee has gone results-driven treatment approach which could and the doctor has told them they need to lose weight.” show us that the client needs specific adrenal or Homefield is also ahead of the curve when it comes to thyroid support as well as emotional healing.” emotional wellbeing retreats, creating personalised packages for those dealing with life-changing events Having the right products Living Well Spa fast facts such as a break-up, divorce or in-house to support this tailored Opened: January 2019 bereavement. “A detox here isn’t journey is also important, which is Cost: £1.7 million just a physical thing, it’s mental and why Peck partnered with skincare Size: 1,000sq ft emotional too, which is why we have brand Pevonia on body Staff: 25 (split between supporting a mind-body programme to help treatments this year. “It’s not staff, therapists and practitioners) clients get through a tough time.” your run of the mill brand, it has Brands: Pevonia, Decléor After an in-depth chat with a an air of exclusivity to it which I practitioner on arrival and a health feel Homefield has as well,” she questionnaire, a programme is devised based on what the says. “The products are high-end and the brand client needs. “We offer what we think they will benefit from has helped tailor-make our packages so we can most, such as body analysis and diagnostics, but it’s their deliver a true holistic experience to our guests.” choice. It’s about how far the customer wants to go on this Peck is so happy with the brand that she will be journey,” says Peck. launching Pevonia facials in the spa next year, too.

If, for example, the client was suffering with terrible fatigue But, this isn’t the only development planned for after the loss of a loved one then “we would not only look to 2020, as Peck looks to launch an outdoor spa area

The personal touch

“to help clients reconnect with nature,” she says.

“We want that nice indoor-outdoor connection and we’re lucky because we’ve got acres of fields and grassland surrounding us.” The wellness garden will feature outdoor saunas, relaxation areas and a garden where clients can pick herbs and make their own tea. It is set to launch in the spring. PB

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M&CO

Lashes

92

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Lashes

93

MORE

than meets THE

eye

Experienced lash treatment developers and educators tell Fiona Vlemmiks the seven most common problems experienced by techs and explain how to solve them

T

hough the trend for lash lifting shows no sign of waning, extensions are back in the spotlight this year, with the launch of several new systems, many of which create mega volume, such as Lashus Extensions, Nail Harmony’s Lash Extend and Novalash’s new London Volume technique. Lashes are set to continue to be hot in 2020, and as techs try to get their heads around achieving perfection in both enhancement methods, we ask industry experts how issues can occur and how to troubleshoot them.

1

Sticking together

“The most common problem I encountered when first learning lash extensions, and the one I now find students struggle with, is classic lashes sticking together, or the volume fan closing after

placement,” says Lash Extend UK educator Hannah Robertson. “The way to overcome this is to ensure you have an even coverage of adhesive on the false lash or fan initially.”

If you have thicker adhesive at one end of the lash, or a bead of adhesive in one place, it won’t dry at the same speed, she explains. “There may then be some spots, which you can’t see, that aren’t dry enough to let go or move on.” When placing the false lash to the eyelash, Robertson recommends holding it in place until the adhesive changes from shiny to matte before moving on to the opposite eye. “Another tip is to apply approximately four to six lashes or fans to one eye, evenly spaced, starting from one corner of the eye to the other and then move onto the opposite eye,” she adds.

“This will help to ensure that by the time you go back to the place you started, >

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works for one person may not work for another, so make sure the ones your choose feel comfortable.”

3

Eye irritation

Lash Extend

Sometimes clients complain of an allergy to extensions, whereas the irritation can actually be caused by poor technique. “Redness of the eye after the application of lashes can be due to the gel patches being too close to the skin and this is often mistaken for an allergy,” says Natalie Piper, lash expert and business development manager at The Eyelash Design Company, which distributes Lash Perfect. “This can be avoided by ensuring that the protective under-eye gel patches are not too close to the water line of the eye. If the client’s eyes are swollen 24 hours after the treatment, this can also sometimes be mistaken for an allergy.

“However, it can be due to sensitivity to the lashes if one or two small lashes are too close to the skin, causing swelling or irritation. This can be solved easily by checking the lashes carefully and ensuring that lashes close to the skin are removed.

“Testing is not essential for lash extensions as none of the products touch the skin, but if a client >

2

The shakes

After completing lash training, it can be daunting working on “real” clients and it is normal to be nervous at first. New lash techs may also take longer to complete a set of lashes and, until they get into their stride, can find themselves having to hold a set of tweezers for hours on end during lash enhancements. This can lead to unsteady hands, which, in turn, can cause problems as they try to isolate lashes.

“Lash isolation is the foundation to any lash extension service and if this isn’t done right nothing else will work,” says Lisa Stone, lash expert and Salon System educator. “It is imperative a technician can isolate an individual natural lash and some often struggle with this at first. It takes a lot of practice and repetition to get this right but there are some tips you can follow to make it easier. To steady the hand, lightly rest it on your client’s forehead and allow the tips of tweezers to rest gently on the eye patches to give support and stability. Keep your hands relaxed and don’t tense or grip your tweezers too tightly. I’d also try out different tweezers. What

Lashes Marvelash Russ ian Volume

the adhesive will have had enough time to dry and you can avoid the problem of lashes sticking together.”

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5

Roaming eyes

Eyelash Emporium

“We love to talk to our clients when they come in and during consultation, but when I’m working on a client, once they’re lying down and prepared, I will say ‘now it’s time for your free lash nap’,” says Jacki Clarke, one of Lashus’s lead educators.

“When a client talks, the brain is ticking over. This causes the eyelids to flicker a lot, which can move the pad. I have had a few students really struggle with this, regardless of the treatment.”

She adds: “If there’s a lot of talking during a lash lift treatment, it can be a struggle to get the lashes onto the shield. Whereas, if a client is chatty during extension application, it can be difficult working with really sharp tweezers and trying to isolate one lash when your client’s eyeball is moving around underneath the lid. You have to remember that clients can have up to 300 lashes on one eye so it can become really difficult for the tech or trainee tech.”

Dawn Grant, Lashus’s other lead educator, suggests creating a relaxing playlist for use during the extension or lifting process. Clients can then lie back, relax and enjoy their ‘lash nap’. “We even suggest not having too much coffee on the day of the treatment. Although techs may initially feel nervous asking clients not to chat, they will understand if you explain it will yield the best results.”

is very sensitive to many products, and is concerned about irritations or allergies, I’d suggest placing one or two extensions on the natural lash as a ‘sensitivity test’.

If there is no irritation after 24 hours, then more lashes can be applied.”

4

“Dirty” lashes

Clients can show up to appointments wearing eye make-up, including waterproof mascara.

Yet, any form of product residue on the lashes when the client comes for extensions or lifting, be it mascara, lash serums or make-up remover, can cause real problems. Spending 20 minutes trying to remove waterproof mascara will also eat into your treatment time.

This can be resolved by giving clear pre-treatment advice when the client books, and being firm but fair with those who choose not to listen.

“If clients complain of lash lifts not working or extensions ‘sliding off’ it is usually down to oil on the lashes,” says Anne Perry, elite Eyelash Emporium educator. “Prior to the treatment, clients need to be told to stop using lash serums, waterproof mascara and oily products around the eye area at least 72 hours before their treatment. If they use micellar water or any type of wipes, they should be made aware that both have oil in them.

“Make a point of double cleansing before each eye treatment and rinse off well so there is no residue left on the lash. Manage your clients and start from day one with a fair policy – if they come in with dirty lashes it will take you extra time, so they either choose less lash time or pay for extra time.”

6

Temperature trouble

Humidity changes the viscosity and curing speed of your lash adhesives, so although it may seem like a good idea, keeping them in the fridge during a heatwave is a definite no-no, explains Debbie Law, Nouveau Lashes educator and international trainer. “Get your hygrometer out and take a reading, then choose your adhesive according to the exact humidity in your treatment room,” she advises. >

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Lashus

“For example, Nouveau Lashes Pro 10 adhesives dry more slowly in high humidity, while SVS adhesive and Pro X5 dry faster than normal.

If you only ever use one preferred adhesive, you’ll need to play around with the amount you use – preferably not on a client, though!”

Another tip Law suggests is to give your adhesive bottle a vigorous shake for two minutes before your first treatment of the day, then shake it again for 10 seconds just before each treatment. “On high-humidity days, try to get more adhesive on each extension by increasing your dipping speed. That should help slow down the curing time,” she adds. “When humidity is low, do the opposite. Also, hold your lashes in place a bit longer than you normally would and that should prevent any sticky situations.”

Sun and heat can also impact on lash lifting treatments.

“Sun has a negative impact on LVL lifting balm,” says Law. “So, keeping the product anywhere that is exposed to direct sunlight is not advised. Buy a big bag of rice, bury it inside and stash it out of sight in the coolest, darkest place possible in your treatment room.”

7

Natural lash damage

Traction alopecia can occur when extensions are too heavy or too long for the natural lashes. “With trends like ‘lash-mapping’ or ‘mega volume’ lashes, this is all too familiar”, says Christina Barham, who distributes NovaLash in the UK and Ireland. “However, it is a common myth that eyelash extensions ruin clients’ natural lashes.

With proper application, technique and aftercare, lashes can, and should, last four to six weeks. This respects your client’s natural lash cycle, with lash extensions shedding when the natural lash is ready to fall out.”

Clients can still have full and thick lashes, but it is important that lash artists select appropriate lengths, and thicknesses, to keep the client’s eye health and safety their top priority. Teaching your clients the correct aftercare will also help protect and respect the natural lash and this includes the use of suitable professional products. “Suggest clients buy a lash wand brush so that they can comb their lashes daily to prevent ‘clumping’,” says Barham. “Use of a cleanser designed specifically for extensions will not only remove dirt, pollutants and any make-up your clients wear safely, it will also prolong the life and radiance of their extensions and natural lashes by conditioning and restoring moisture and reduce flipping and tangling of the lashes, while simultaneously nourishing the eye area.” PB

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Hot Topic

99

ARE

professional BRANDS

focusing less ON THE

salon market?

As the industry’s biggest professional brands become more retail-focused in a bid to standout in the saturated beauty market, two successful salon owners question whether this is a good or bad move for their salon accounts

W

ith many leading professional brands becoming more retailfocused to keep their profits strong in the highly competitive beauty market, the move has somewhat divided opinion among UK salons and spas.

While some see the strategy as a positive idea, helping to raise brand awareness and get clients through the salon door, others are unhappy that some retailers are able to discount professional products to such an extent that they are sometimes selling them to consumers at cost price, feeling like the professional market is less valued.

However, some salon owners argue that if your retail strategy is strong enough, and your therapists are confident enough, then this shouldn’t be seen as a threat.

Two successful and long-standing salon owners share their opinions on the issue and reveal the strategy their businesses took because of it. >

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“I dropped a brand and have been haggling with suppliers since” Donna Stothard, a Professional Beauty Awards judge and owner of Bedale Beauty in Bedale, North Yorkshire “It’s no secret that the retail industry is becoming increasingly competitive. Although online shopping is popular and convenient, people still like to buy from people. A computer or mobile phone won’t give clients the face-to-face service or knowledge of their skin that we can. This edge is our advantage in the retail war.

“So, if everyone uses products and needs good skincare, then why are they buying them from our salons less and less? Is it availability? Lack of education? Or is it price? More recently, I’ve found it’s the latter.

“It’s tough because there’s never going to be a fair platform for high-street salons to compete with the buying spend of big shopping channels or online retailers, which is how they can price products so low. It’s truly gut wrenching when you see a professional brand you stock being sold by retailers to customers cheaper than you can buy it at cost price.

“Is the brand’s plan to sell it cheap so they get greater product awareness? My view is, buy it cheap

and it cheapens the perceptive value of the product. So, a once prestigious range just becomes another brand in the mass market with no differences.

Parting ways “I was using a certain professional brand for a long time but ended the relationship for this exact reason. My annual sales with their company had dropped and my loyalty and passion for what they did lessened, which is extremely sad.

“However, I stayed with my other brands and since then I’ve been taking extra time to build great working relationships with my BDMs [business development managers] and I regularly haggle on costs, pushing to see if they will give me the great deals I see the brand offering on shopping channels or their own websites.

“I’ve even threatened to hold back from regular orders before while I was challenging them for a deal. For example, if I spend X on this order, what can you give me, your loyal account holder, for free, or what discounts can you offer me? It’s really worth a try. I then pass these savings onto my clients by offering VAT-free or buy-one-getone-half-price deals.

“You have to be tough like this because it’s a constant battle, especially when clients tell you they can buy the product you’re recommending cheaper elsewhere. When a customer says this to me, I smile and reply, ‘I can’t compete with those retail channels, but what I do know is that this product is from a genuine supplier and buying from me keeps the high street thriving.’

“It can be scary to be this honest with your clients, but I’ve found that for some people it’s opened their eyes and changed their shopping habits, with them now putting their trust and money in my business. It’s not about moaning to the client, but explaining to them why you’re the best person to turn to for skincare recommendations.”

It’s truly gut wrenching when you see a professional brand you stock being sold by retailers to customers cheaper than you can buy it at cost price

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“I weighed up my options and created my own product line instead”

Hot Topic

101

Clare Rogers, a Professional Beauty Awards judge and owner of The Treatment Rooms in Brighton “Having owned my Brighton-based beauty salon The Treatment Rooms for 24 years, I’ve seen many start-up skincare brands grow to become so successful that they’ve been bought by big-name retailers.

“It’s a hot topic and one that has divided opinion in the industry, but I say good luck to these brands. It’s an amazing achievement to reach that kind of success and they should be proud of where they’ve got to.

Retail focus “The only problem I have with the situation is that some acquired brands have become so focused on consumer retail that they tend to forget about the treatment market, with some withdrawing from it completely.

As a business owner, to find another range to stock is a costly process because it means retraining your therapists in new protocols, as well as renewing your marketing materials and updating your website.

“In today’s market, keeping your clients loyal boils down to whether they trust that you’ve got a treatment and product range that really delivers, so who you work with is now the biggest, and often most costly, decision you make.

My other recent niggle is that salons and spas pay are bottom of the ‘new product launch’ list. First it goes to a major department store, then to the brand’s own website and then months later to the salon and spa market.

something is going to run out. Plus, you can choose quality ingredients and know exactly where they come from.

“However, creating your own brand doesn’t come without its challenges. You have designers, printers and manufacturers to work with, and bringing them together can be a struggle.

Also, having a big product name on your menu, especially if you’re a fairly new business, is a good way to get people through the door.

“So, don’t be shortsighted and only develop products. Create signature treatments for your menu too using the collection, and then you have the same solid route to customers as the other brands.

“This is a big choice to make and it needs serious research before diving in. Weigh up your options between the cost of launching your own brand and the deal you have with your product house, and go from there.” PB

Some acquired brands have become so focused on consumer retail that they tend to forget about the treatment market

Finding a new way “I believe this is why there’s a wave of salons and spas developing their own brands (myself included), starting with a few staple products that can be used in treatment and retailed to clients for home use. It’s a favourable route if you’re unsure about sticking with your current product house, especially if it means no more competing with that brand’s exclusive online offers, which unfortunately aren’t always passed on to you as an account holder.

“Also, it means no more being told suddenly that something is discontinued or out of stock. The situation with product availability is yours, so you know ahead of time if

Disclaimer: the thoughts and opinions expressed belong solely to the authors and are not the view of Professional Beauty or Trades Exhibitions Limited

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Nail Notes

103

5 prevent WAYS TO

contact

ALLERGIES

A

Allergies among techs have been rising, but understanding the nail products you work with can prevent issues before they start, explains PB Nail Professional of the Year 2019 Kayley Cairns

s nail techs, working safely is essential to ensure our careers have longevity. One of the biggest risks we face is allergies, especially with nail enhancements being blamed for a rise in contact allergies in the UK. If we become allergic to our products then it’s highly likely we would be unable to continue working.

It’s important to remember that the products we use to create beautiful nails are all safe, but only when used correctly and responsibly as manufacturers intended.

Prevention is always better than cure, so here are my tips for working safely so you can prevent a contact allergy.

1. Use the correct nail lamp for your system Under-cured product is a leading cause of nail product allergy so any old lamp will not do. Lamps should be matched to the system you’re using to ensure a full cure.

It may feel and look like your gel is fully cured but unless you’re a chemist, testing it properly, then you can’t be sure. Product can appear tcured at just 50% cured.

Some people say, “I can’t get a lamp for every brand I use”, but my answer to this would be to use fewer brands.

Find one or two that offer a good range and invest in those systems properly – lamp and all. If you can’t afford to invest in multiple brands properly then stick with one.

2. Don’t touch uncured or under-cured product Product on your skin can lead to an allergy, so avoid shaping a brush with your fingers, wiping product off the skin with your finger, leaning on the pad you’ve wiped your brush on or touching the skin around your nail with your brush during application. Also, don’t forget the tacky layer.

The tacky film on cured gel products is uncured product, so don’t touch this with your fingers, and wipe off with care so as not to smear it on the client’s skin too.

3. Use brands in full Brands make their products compatible with their own line, so mixing brands can mean the products may not be compatible with each other and, as a result, can lead to under-cured product.

While different brands may use the same ingredients, differing amounts of the individual components can make a big difference in compatibility, with some not fully curing at all.

4. Perfect your mix ratio Many techs work too wet but using beads that are not in the correct ratio means the product won’t be able to fully cure.

5. Protect yourself Good-quality, thick gloves will protect you from accidentally touching your skin. Invest in barrier creams that are like “gloves in a bottle” too, for additional protection. You should also consider salon ventilation so that dust and vapours in your working zone are extracted or pass through a three-stage filter system, called a source-capture system. Opening windows, or using air purifiers or air conditioning units, is not enough for successful salon ventilation. PB

Kayley Cairns is owner of The Nail Boutique in Billericay and Professional Beauty’s Nail Professional of the Year 2019.

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Operational Advice

105

Explaining

spaTO

shareholders Struggling to see eye-to-eye with management can be fatal for business.

Spa manager Lynn Roach explains how to work collaboratively with those concerned solely with profit

A

s spa professionals, we understand the importance of profit, but also know it has to be balanced with exceptional service for clients. I believe that if you always aim to achieve both you can be successful within a management team. However, it can be hard to justify the costs associated with delivering this, particularly if your spa is within a hotel that has managers and shareholders who are not focused on the day-to-day running of the spa.

If you want to make actual change in your spa, you must present a clear and concise business plan to your senior management team and shareholders. It should answer any premeditated questions and validate your points when it comes to your spa’s USPs. Your management and shareholders will appreciate this approach because it gets to the point quickly, which is always handy when schedules are busy.

Crunch the numbers This business plan should include a breakdown of fixed costs and a forecast of net revenue, as well as an outline of margins, benefits to the business and extra revenue the company could make on upselling on the back of the proposal. How long it will take to repay costs and how you would market the proposal are also essential factors to cover.

Once you have piqued their interest, you should show them what your plan looks like or, even better, get them to experience it as this usually seals the deal.

You shouldn’t struggle if you keep up to date with all the reporting but, if you ever think that you will not hit a target, discuss this with your management and shareholders. Constant communication and the ability to be completely transparent are essential.

This should extend to your executive team also, who you should try to get involved with the spa as much as possible. Allowing them to experience the services helps them understand the guest experience and how it can effectively drive sales.

Be realistic Always remember that the spa may only drive around 20% of the overall revenue, so it’s likely that your colleagues may only want to spend 20% of their time supporting you.

Be ready to put incentives and packages in place and always measure them so you can share the incremental revenue that the spa is driving. If they can recognise how the spa can drive revenue into other areas then they’re likely to give you more of their time. PB

Lynn Roach is director of The Harrogate Spa at DoubleTree by Hilton Majestic Hotel in Harrogate. The spa is set to open this month.

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08/10/2019 12:02

Guinot Eye Lift Treatment Guinot’s new 40-minute treatment targets signs of ageing and fatigue such as wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles. Following a consultation and skin preparation, the treatment begins with the application of Guinot’s Age Logic Eye Massage to areas such as frown lines, eyelids and eye contour.

Age Logic Eye Gel Serum is then applied around the eye contour and forehead with electrode balls. How firmly this is done is relative to the client’s sensitivity. The Age Logic Eye Mask is applied after this and left for eight minutes. Light effleurage movements are then used to help any excess serum absorb into the skin. The treatment concludes with application of face and eye products to suit the client’s skin, before a mini makeover using Guinot’s Masters Colors make-up line, followed by retail recommendations.

Guinot recommends charging £63 for the 40-minute treatment.

Call the brand on 01344 873123

Wide

OPEN

Treatment News

107

We explore two new lifting, brightening treatments for the eye area, as well as some great hyper-personalised facials

This month we tried… Lash Perfect iRevive The lowdown: Lash Perfect has launched its first-ever eye ritual, which can be a standalone service or added on to any lash or brow treatment as a luxury upsell. iRevive is a 30-minute treatment that works to banish dark circles and puffiness using under-eye patches and microcurrent technology to boost elasticity and collagen in the skin. This is teamed up with a lymphatic massage using a rose quartz roller.

The experience: I had my treatment at the brand’s flagship Lash Perfect Beauty Bar in London with therapist Fay Gallagher. After removing my make-up and cleansing my skin, Gallagher applied the brand’s hyaluronic-rich Brightening Eye Serum with Silk Crystal to my brow bone and under-eye area, and massaged the area to stimulate the microcirculation, using sweeping and pinching techniques.

Next, the Brightening Under Eye Gel Patches with microcurrent technology were applied under my eyes to encourage synthesis of collagen, and the sensation was a light tingle on the skin. While they got to work, Gallagher performed a toning massage using a rose quartz roller to further reduce inflammation.

She started along the contours of my brow bone and my under-eye area, then applied an eye mask before working on my cheeks, jawline and forehead. Although cold to the touch, the roller felt soothing against my skin and was a nice addition to the experience. After 15 minutes, the eye mask and patches were removed and Gallagher used pressure-point movements to ensure all excess product had been absorbed.

The verdict: As someone who feels like they never get enough sleep – hello, panda eyes – I was really impressed with the results of this treatment. iRevive made my eye area appear brighter and my face feel more toned.

Business benefits: This is an ideal add-on for customers who regularly have their brows or lashes done, turning their appointment into a more luxurious experience.

Plus, it has great profit margins. The products used in service can be retailed too, so clients have the option to keep up the results at home.

Tried by Amanda Pauley The Eyelash Design Company recommends charging £25 for the 30-minute treatment. Call the brand on 020 8500 9028 professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Treatment News

108 Sothys Detox Energie Intensive Treatment To accompany its new Detox Energie skincare line, Sothys has created an energising facial that helps defend skin against environmental aggressors. The treatment begins with Triple Action Depolluting Scrub, accompanied with vapozone steam, extractions, and biostimulating oil. This is followed with a spritz of Depolluting Protective Mist, then the new Radiance Serum, said to oxygenate the skin and encourage a youthful appearance.

Radiance Digi-Esthetique Modelling is then massaged into the face, combining Eastern and Western acupressure and massage techniques to rebalance the skin. The next stage provides antipollution protection through a detox mask system, then the treatment is concluded with a protective finish consisting of Depolluting Youth Cream and a Protective Depolluting Essence.

Sothys recommends charging between £45 and £50 for the 75-minute facial. Call the brand on 01303 262666

This month we tried… Elemis Superfood Pro-Radiance Facial The lowdown: As Elemis continues to expand its Superfood range with the addition of two new facial boosters (Cica Calm and AHA Glow), the brand has created a hero facial for stressed-out millennial skin using the core collection. Blending the brand’s top technology with selected superfood-packed products, the treatment claims to “jump-start exhausted skin”, leaving it with a healthy glow.

The experience: At The House of Elemis in London, therapist Elina Ruuska began my treatment with a detailed analysis, looking at what was happening to my skin at a deeper level. Although it was in good condition, Ruuska told me I was suffering with dehydration around my eyes and near my nose, and that lack of sleep and stress could be contributing to this.

The facial is personalised to what your skin needs at the time, so Ruuska told me she was going to use a variety of tech and products to give it a boost. After

double cleansing and toning, Ruuska began rebalancing my hydration levels using 15% ultrasonic peeling – most clients start at 30% but I had a lower dosage because of the sensitivity I suffer with in my cheeks.

Next, she applied Professional Amino Active Peel-Off Mask on top of a layer of Superfood Facial Oil to give my skin extra nourishment. The mask was thick and had a jelly-like texture, which Ruuska told me helps boost microcirculation. While this was left to work its magic, a tension-reliving neck and shoulder massage was performed.

Hydra-Active Gel Mask was then applied to soothe, and using galvanic rollers Ruuska pushed the ingredients even further into the skin, noting that this would really take care of the dehydration.

The treatment finished with application of an eye cream, face cream and an SPF. The verdict: My skin was glowing post-treatment to such an extent that it looked like I’d just done a really good workout.

Plus, those areas of dryness were well and truly taken care of, taking my skin back to a healthy base.

Business benefits: This facial is an ideal addition for salons and spas looking to get more millennials through their doors. The flexibility in the protocol allows the therapist to deliver a truly bespoke experience, which this age group loves, and it’s a chance to show just how effective the Superfood range is, making the collection even easier to retail.

Tried by Amanda Pauley The House of Elemis charges £95 for the 60-minute treatment. Call the brand on 0117 316 1888

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Hair Bare Professional is a new brand offering skincarebased hair removal treatments for face, arms, legs and body, launched by advanced practitioner Julie Jacobs-French, who also owns Ice Clinic in Kent.

Starting with the alkaline-based Remove and Smooth Hair Removal Powder, the pH of the skin is raised and proteins of the hair broken down. The powder also has exfoliating properties. Calming Spritz CoQ10 Spray follows, to soothe skin with aloe vera while strengthening the effects of the alkaline. Next up is Balance Me Neutralising Foamer, which lowers the pH of the skin to its normal level.

The hair-retardant, paraben-free Stop It Reduction Crème is then applied to weaken hair formation, reducing its density and length. To conclude, Protect You Pre Sun Mineral Spray is applied, using micronised

Treatment News

Hair Bare Professional

titanium dioxide to protect from UVA and UVB, and is encouraged for year-round use.

Hair Bare Professional can also be used before technologies such as radiofrequency or HIFU to prep skin and get a better penetration of the energy.

Hair Bare recommends charging £50 for a treatment. Call the brand on 07712 559200

This month we tried… Harley The lowdown: Harley is a new tech platform designed to allow practitioners to sell cosmeceutical skincare directly to clients and drive repeat sales, with the capability to do so remotely. Founder Charmaine Chow wanted to find a solution for the low product sales retention that many salons and clinics struggle with.

Individual therapists or beauty businesses don’t have to worry about inventory risk because Harley ships prescribed products directly to the client in an eco-friendly box with a personalised message from the practitioner.

After a consultation or treatment, clients can purchase products via a link sent to their phone that contains details of their personalised skincare plan. Harley then sends a follow-up message reminding clients to re-purchase products before they run out. There are no membership fees for practitioners; Harley takes a 20% commission from product sales.

The experience: I tried out Harley via a consultation with Pamela Marshall, managing director and clinical aesthetician at Mortar & Milk in London. Because I’ve been to her before, Marshall took some imaging pictures of my skin to compare with the last set she took a few years ago. After showing me how my skin had changed and asking

some lifestyle and health questions, she showed me how she puts together a treatment plan on the practitioner-facing part of Harley’s website.

Mortar & Milk’s account is set up with the core skincare brands the salon uses – Exuviance and Neostrata. With a few clicks, she selected the products she wanted me to use and tweaked any instructions she wanted to personalise for me. I instantly received a text message directing me to my personalised regime, where I could also purchase products.

The verdict: My products arrived three days later in cardboard boxes personalised with my name. Inside was a handwritten message from Marshall and a reminder of how to access my regime and ask any questions about the products or how I should use them. Marshall’s influence was present every step of the way to make sure therapist and client stay connected.

Business benefits: Harley is a userfriendly solution to one of the industry’s biggest hurdles. It removes the need for practitioners to hold stock or account for postage and delivery. The platform’s video function allows for remote consultations, so therapists can make money even when they can’t see a client face to face. Practitioners can also choose to let Harley source products from brands they don’t work with in their clinic, allowing them to cherry pick exactly what they know would work for a client, and still get the lion’s share of the sale.

Tried by Georgia Seago.

Call Harley on 07544 817486 professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Promotional Feature

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is your salon

Prepared for

CHRISTMAS? It’s nearly that time of the year again – but are you ready to make the most of the festive season? The NBF explains the steps you need to take to create a Christmas cracker

“Sort out your staff rotas well in advance and decide if you’ll be opening on more days or for longer hours,” says NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “Use your social media accounts and website to publicise extra appointments and any special services you’re offering during the party season, for example, express treatments that party goers can fit in after work before heading out.” Get more top tips on preparing for Christmas at nhf.info/christmas-cracker

Christmas client event Organise a Christmas client event towards the end of November. “This could include the opportunity to learn about and purchase products as well as consultations, top tips for the latest party looks and demonstrations,” says Hall. “You could serve bubbly and refreshments, but make sure you have the correct licences if you’re serving alcohol.” Find out more about alcohol licences at nhf.info/servingalcohol

Retail and gift vouchers You can really push your gift vouchers and retail sales at this time of year with lots of attractively packaged gift sets and ready-wrapped presents for clients looking for last-minute ideas, says Hall. “And don’t forget to make your window display as eye-catching as possible, which is a great way to attract new clients too.” Find out how to boost your retail sales at nhf.info/retail

“Your staff will feel valued and engaged if you hold regular team meetings and one-to-one sessions so they feel genuinely involved in decision-making.

Highlight and praise team members who go that extra mile, and provide training so staff can learn new skills – this is win-win as it means you will be able to offer your clients a wider range of services.”

Always show your appreciation with discounts on retail products, extra time off, employee-of-the-month competitions and by remembering staff birthdays.

“A special annual outing is also great for teambuilding – you could organise an event during your quieter time in the New Year to say a big thank you for everyone’s hard work at Christmas – and to help banish those January blues,” suggests Hall. Find out how to reward and incentivise your team at nhf.info/reward

The NBF For less than 75p a day, the National Beauty Federation (NBF) will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us. The NBF is the sister trade association of the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF). Find out more: nhf.info/nbf Join the NBF before the end of November 2019 and quote PBN25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Team talk Making sure your staff are really geared up and motivated at this important time for your business is something you need to work at throughout the year, says Hall.

Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

111 Lash Perfect Lash Perfect is launching a three-step system for eyelashextension application called the Ultimate Pro Adhesive Collection. The first step, Ultimate Pro Speed It, is a pre-application product to enhance the performance of adhesives and prevent lash fans from closing. Next is Ultimate Pro Bond It, an advanced-formula adhesive with one-second drying time and low odour. Finally, Ultimate Pro Cure It offers strong attachment and increased retention of extensions, meaning lashes can get wet straight after application.

Trade: £19.95 for 6.5ml Speed It, £31.95 for 5ml Bond It, £28.95 for 15ml Cure it 020 8500 9026 lashperfect.co.uk

Sticking POINT

Developments in lash adhesives make treatments faster, and Lecenté unveils a new gel brand

Lecenté Lecenté Create is a new soak-off gel-polish system that is developed to be fast to apply and offer strong colour. As Lecenté is known for its glitters, it is launching with six rainbow gel polish colours, which give a holographic rainbow prism effect. Lecenté spent three years developing this system, which includes a cuticle tool, base coat, White Magic and Black Magic Colour Coat, Rainbow Gel Polishes, top coat, a UV/LED Lamp and removal wraps.

Standard colours, base and top coat each require 30 seconds’ curing time, while rainbow shades take 60 seconds.

Trade: £11.99 per 12ml; £99.99 for the lamp 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Salon System Salon System has developed a vegan-friendly Naturalash Strip Lash Adhesive Latex Free Glue, which offers up to 18 hours of wear and has a clear finish. The new product is intended to work for those who suffer with allergies and watery, sensitive eyes. “This is a must for your lash box so customers with sensitivities can be confident in all-day wear, instant length and/or fullness depending on their requirements,” says Salon System educator and lash squad expert Ruth Atkins.

Trade: £2.90 for 4.5ml 020 8573 9907 salonsystem.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

112 Thalgo The Christmas collection from marine brand Thalgo includes 13 gift sets this year. One of the standouts is Prodige des Océans Ultimate Revitalisation, which contains Cream, Mask and Essence. There is also a range of crackers and smaller gifts to hang on the tree, such as Christmas Cracker - Anti-Ageing, which contains minis of Hyaluronic Cream, Hyaluronic Mask and Deeply Nourishing Body Cream. Also new for this year is a limited-edition Prodige des Océans Parfum and Beautifying Powder, designed to make great gifts.

Trade: £67.50 for Ultimate Revitalisation set; £8.50 for Christmas Cracker – Anti-Ageing 020 7512 0872 thalgo.co.uk

Baldan

Germaine de Capuccini

The new 1060 nm laser from Baldan, Le Shape, generates hyperthermic energy that causes the breakdown of lipid cells and stimulates the production of collagen. Treatment time is 25 minutes with a maximum of two treatments per area recommended, although Baldan Group says that a third treatment can be useful in rare instances. The company says that results will appear within a week, though fuller outcomes will be visible for three months following the treatment.

Price on application 020 3488 2938 baldangroup.com

Timexpert SRNS Night Progress Serum, the latest launch from Germaine de Capuccini (GDC), is formulated to rejuvenate skin in seven days.

GDC says the anti-ageing booster adapts to the time of day, repairing damage and activating cellular regeneration at night, while defending skin against external aggressors in the daytime. GDC’s patented ingredients in the serum include Glyco 8-Power, RCAdvanced and the IFSCC-prizewinning Zinc-Glycine Complex, which increases cells’ resistance to oxidative stress.

Trade: £49.50 for initial launch of 50ml; £62.50 thereafter 0845 600023 germaine-de-capuccini.co.uk

Vitage Antioxidant skincare brand Vitage has launched the Glycolic Renewal Range, combining glycolic and lactic acids to remove dead skin and dry cells while also protecting against environmental stresses. The range includes the moisture-boosting Renewal Antioxidant Treatment Mask, containing apricot kernel oil and vitamin E, skin-clarifying Renewal Daily Moisturiser, formulated to increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, and pore-refining Renewal Night Recovery, designed to tackle fine lines, blemishes and wrinkles.

Trade: £19.50 for Daily Moisturiser, £19.50 for Night Recovery, £12 for Advanced Treatment Mask 0333 014 2434 (Skin Brands) skinbrands.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Gaia

Wax:one Wax:one’s latest launch, the Ouch-Free Waxing Kit, is a system targeted towards a comfortable experience for clients. The kit includes hot wax and a gel crème strip wax, both rosin-free and scented with grapefruit and kiwi. Also featured is a gentle pre-wax cleanser formulated with antibacterial tea tree essential oil, an aloe vera and lavender pre- and post-wax oil, and a soothing gel-based solution for use at home. Each kit comes with tweezers, fresh wipes and a window cling.

Trade: £51.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Spotlight

Skincare brand Gaia has launched a wellness gift range for Christmas, covering everything from stocking fillers, such as the Gaia Christmas Cracker, to candles and diffusers.

Gift sets have also been released, such as the Eye and Face Serum Set and Awakening Oil Collection.

The Gaia Facial Range trio comprises candelua oil and sugarinfused 60g exfoliator, jojoba and shea butter 50g cleansing balm and a light 50g moisturiser.

Trade: from £6.70 to £56.95 08455 651167 gaiaskincare.co.uk

New Products

113

KB Tool Range

Following two years of research and development, nail technician and educator Katie Barnes has launched the first products in her new KB Form Tailoring Range. Barnes, who won Professional Beauty’s Nail Professional of the Year Award in 2018, is known for her experience and knowledge within the field and says the product range came from a desire to raise the standard of industry tools available to techs.

The KB Full Scissor Kit, Barnes’s most comprehensive set, includes a White Gel Pen, Curved Form Tailoring Scissors, Straight Form Tailoring Scissors, Curved Cuticle Scissors and Straight Cuticle Scissors. The scissors are

made from surgical-grade Japanese stainless steel that is chromium plated to help prevent premature rusting, and comes with a spring function that causes less stress on the hands.

They are designed to be accessible and easy to use, meaning they are viable for those with arthritis and other mobility issues, as well as both left- and right-handed technicians. Other new products in the KB Tool Range include a C-Curve Pinching Clip and Aluminium Nail Foil Support.

Trade: £75 for KB Full Scissor Kit, £4.99 for KB C-Curve Pinching Clip, £14.99 for KB Aluminium Nail Form Support 01926 493974 katiebarnesacademy.com

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

114 Beauty Pro Sheet mask specialist Beauty Pro has launched new products into its Natura range, including a CBD Oil Mask that helps restore uneven skin tone, pollution damage, redness and blemish breakouts. Also available are the hydrating Pumpkin Masks and Coconut Masks. Beauty Pro’s Barber Pro line will also bring out the CBD Oil Mask, a specialist CBD-incorporating mask for men. All masks are 100% plant-based, contain no water and are VeganSociety registered and PETA certified.

Trade: £2.95 each for all masks 01273 323232 beautypro.com

QMS Three gift boxes are set to launch from QMS Medicosmetics in time for Christmas, including the starter set Radiant Glow, and the repairing and calming Regenerating Night collection. The final collection is Skin Perfecting Hydration, a four-piece set designed for morning use that includes an Active Exfoliant 11%, which can be applied with a complimentary QMS brush. Also included are a Day Collagen, Lip Line Corrector and an Antioxidant Cream.

Trade: £40.34 for Radiant Glow, £50.42 for Regenerating Night, £90.76 for Skin Perfecting Hydration 020 3971 2590 qmsmedicosmetics.com

Hammamii

Hive Although predominantly a waxing specialist, Hive also sells a range of skincare products, which it is now rebranding to sit under the Hive Solutions banner.

The first products to be repackaged and relaunched this way are its Galvanic Gels. These include Desincrustation gel, which contains anti-inflammatory horse chestnut extract for congested skin, and Aloe Vera gel, which promotes softness in oily skin. Other gels in the collection are Vitamin E, Collagen and Rose. Each is deigned to be absorbed into the deeper levels of the skin when used in conjunction with galvanic current.

Trade: £9.40 each 0845 450 4802 hiveofbeauty.com

Following success in the UAE, Hammamii is bringing its all-natural spa range to the UK via a partnership with Drift Distribution. Using local ingredients such as camel’s milk from the desert, dates, sumac and the traditional Arabian spice za’atar, Hammamii’s products are halal, natural and come in recyclable packaging. The five collections launching are Purity, Protect, Mask, Nourish and Exfoliate and feature face and body products including cleansers, masks and serums, as well as more traditional Moroccan products such as black hammam soap, argan oil and camel’s milk bath soak.

Trade: from £5.14 to £68.73 07888 078880 hammamii.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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SET YOUR STUDENTS UP FOR CAREER SUCCESS What’s on for colleges on Monday 30th March

Are you bringing a group of students?

Email colleges@professionalbeauty.co.uk to register a group

EDUCATION FORUM Discuss with leading employers and specialists how to get students into the industry INSPIRATION & TRAINING Seminars for just £1 per session for lecturers and students DO YOUR STUDENTS HAVE WHAT IT TAKES? Win £1,000 by entering your students into the College Cup EXCLUSIVE LECTURER BENEFITS Free refreshments and drinks reception in the lounges DISCOUNTED COACH HIRE 50% off coach hire, courtesy of

Register for free tickets at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/collegetickets #PBLondon @pro_beauty ProfessionalBeautyUK pro_beauty01

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New Products

116 Maletti With its latest range Madam, spa and salon furniture specialist Maletti is relaunching many of its staple products, as well as offering new items, including stools, reception seating, trolleys, reception desks and more, all of which can be customised. “A lot of hard work and research has gone into this collection to ensure it is on trend and eye-catching and functions exceptionally, living up to Maletti’s reputation,” says Maletti group chairman Danilo Maletti.

Trade: from £117 to £2,288.70 0118 932 3500 maletti.it/en

Meadow Skincare Meadow Skincare has launched a variety of new products, including the Calm and Soothe Face Mask, which uses a blend of kaolin clay, broccoli seed, elderberry and yarrow to firm skin and tighten pores. Also launched is the Gently Resurfacing Facial Exfoliant, which has an oat and butter blend that calms irritation while functioning as a moisturiser.

Additionally, the Overnight Replenishing Oil contains a blend of 13 seed oils to keep skin hydrated and free radical damage from pollution minimised, as well as added lavender and jasmine to help skin heal and to promote restful sleep.

Trade: £12 for Calm and Soothe Face Mask, £14 for Gently Resurfacing Facial Exfoliant, £17.50 for Overnight Replenishing Oil 07806 621815 meadowskincare.co.uk

Why change from waxing to Aqua Natural?

The Ethical Alternative to Depilatory Waxing

To complement the hair removal treatments, try our: Pre-Use Talc and Post Use Soothing Mist.

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Made using 100% natural ingredients. No additives, resins or polymers.

All our products are registered by The Vegan Society.

Aqua Natural is completely water soluble. No need for cleaning solvents or post wax, just a cloth and warm water.

All our products are certified by Cruelty Free International and we support the sustainablitly of bees.

Our sugar paste is environmentally friendly and instantly biodegradable.

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Training Project2_Layout 1 01/10/2019 10:44 Page 1

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Career Path

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How to make it as a...

celebrity SPRAY tanner

Spray tan artist and Sienna X brand ambassador Carly Hobbs talks us through working with high-profile clients, and why the job is not what you might first expect

1. Have a good knowledge of the industry “I started out as a journalist, and when I began writing about beauty I absolutely fell in love with it. I initially trained in make-up to improve my writing, which led to me helping on shoots, and eventually I was asked to assist with spray tanning. From there, I began building my own portfolio, which eventually led me to Sienna X. I’m not saying everyone should be a journalist or a make-up artist beforehand, I just think it’s really important that you know what makes the industry tick.”

2. Put yourself out there “Assisting is so important. I once worked four days at London Fashion Week; it was exhausting but I learnt so much. Offer to help out with tanning at local fashion events – perhaps a celebrity host might notice you.

Don’t accost people though; it’s all about getting noticed in the right way, so quality always comes first.

“Social media is great for showing off your work.

If you’re using all the right hashtags and people leave nice comments, then someone important might take notice.”

3. Treat everyone equally “How you make a client look is obviously important, but what matters even more is how you make them feel. It’s a bizarre experience, taking your clothes off and getting sprayed with something very cold, so you have to make them feel special. The best way to

approach the job is to treat every client like a VIP. I’ve found that the more famous someone is, the less trouble they are. Be polite to everyone, and never forget anyone because they might become the big boss one day.

4. Prepare for challenging situations “You have to be able to read the room, which comes with practice. Some clients might not be into the experience at all, whereas others will be so excited that they can’t stay still.

“Sienna X worked on ITV’s Strictly Come Dancing in 2016 and, after a few weeks of refusing, Ed Balls finally agreed to have a spray tan. I’d never worked with so many people in the room; he was in the tanning tent, out the tent, making jokes, being filmed for [spin-off show] It Takes Two, but it was so much fun.

“Once, I was working on a film in the middle of a field with no power so I couldn’t run the machine, but of course the set team wouldn’t know that. You’ve got to be prepared for every eventuality.”

5. Don’t expect to work only with celebrities “I don’t think anyone can say that they tan only celebrities, it’s just not real life. If I was looking for someone to assist me, I’d want them to be genuinely into tanning and wanting to further their career rather than just in it to meet stars.

“To build your skill set and reputation, the wider variety of people you work with the better. Look for celebrities by all means, but don’t make it your end goal.” PB

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