2 minute read
Phytomedicine and natural plants
CHEMICAL PEELING tips for the professional
SONETTE DONKER, founder of the Skin iD Clinic in Sandton, reveals vital pointers for performing in-salon peels. he first and most important thing to do before a chemical peeling treatment is a consultation. During the consultation you need T on peeling the skin and might lead to severe dehydration and sensitivity. Post procedure protocol After the peeling procedure, a post peeling cream must be used, to establish if the client’s skin which will speed up skin healing can actually handle a peel. For as well as protect the skin against instance, if a skin is dehydrated environmental aggressors. This and thin due to medication, the cream normally needs to be used peeling agent will penetrate for at least a week after the peel. deeper than you intend, so not The client might feel slightly only will you lose control over sunburnt after the peel, but this the results, but there will be is normal. complications as well. When it It is vital that the client has no or comes to chemical peels, it’s little sun exposure after the peel all about having control of the and that she / he applies a sun penetration to get the best results. protection of at least 30 post peel.
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Prepare the skin before a peel Some post peeling creams already with active home care products contain an SPF. containing retinol and hydroxy There must be no exfoliation acids. Normally, two to four weeks at home for the client for a week are needed prior to the client’s post peel. first peel. The client should not Your clients will have better exfoliate a week prior to the peel. results if they do a course of peels,
Keep the temperature of normally four to six peels done water cooler than normal during every one or two weeks. Then cleansing and peel removal, so as rest the skin for four weeks and not to overstimulate the skin. The continue with a peel every four peel will generate heat in the skin, to six weeks to maintain the therefore you want to cool it as results achieved. much as possible. The stronger the peel, the
Ensure that you neutralise the longer the waiting period will peel 100%, as some peels will keep be between treatments and the shorter each treatment needs to be to prevent overstimulation. If the peel is not that strong, then you can massage it in and make the treatment longer.
Time vs layers
Hydroxy acid peels are always time-dependent and need to be neutralised or buffered after the desired time, whereas TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels are layer-dependent.
Both these types of peels comes in a variety of strengths and you will often start with the mildest and work up to the stronger formulation. Some clients may stay with the milder strength, as their skins won’t be able to tolerate the stronger formulations. PB
Sonette Donker is a qualified professional skincare therapist with 20 years of experience. She has worked for companies such as Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and pHformula, and travelled the world presenting at congresses, press events and medical conferences. Donker specialises in the treatment of acne, hyperpigmentation and the visible signs of ageing.
