How to perform treatments safely

appeal The of peels

In-salon chemical peels have long been accepted as an effective skin-resurfacing modality, where the top layers of the skin are removed to reveal the younger, smoother skin below. Depending on the strength of the peel, they can be performed as a standalone treatment, or incorporated into a facial treatment.

DermaFix

DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers superficial to medium-depth peels, combining a variety of peeling agents including AHAs, BHAs, TCA and Vitamin A Propionate. This range of peels work to target various concerns including ageing, acne, hyperpigmentation, scarring and stretch marks.

The scientific DermaFix 4 Stage Progressive Peel incorporates Stage 1 DermaPeel with Salicylic Acid, a naturally occurring substance found in the bark of the willow tree, helping to aid in penetration of other peeling agents. This is followed by Stage 2 and 3 application of Trichloroacetic TCA at different percentages, and then rounded off with the application of Vitamin A Propionate in Stage 4.

The aim of this peel is to progressively work towards the required skin depth level on Fitzpatrick Skin Types I to VI. DermaPeel has an excellent safety profile and has been used for over 100 years as a therapeutic agent to treat hyperkeratotic epidermal lesions. It may be used on all skin types with substantial efficacy and minimal ‘down time’ and has also shown to enhance the penetration of Trichloroacetic acid TCA, according to the P.E. Grimes Division of Dermatology, Department of Medicine, David Geffen School of Medicine, University of California, Los Angeles.

Other peels offered in the DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care range include the DermaFix Beta Gel Peel, a Salicylic BHA and Lactic AHA combination peel, and the DermaFix DermaBright, a mini-peel incorporating Mandelic AHA.

DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care peels work to resurface the skin whilst encouraging cellular renewal. Skin texture and tone improves, whilst fine lines and wrinkles are softened. Benefits may be noticed across ageing, acne, hyperpigmented and scarred skin concerns.

The brand recommends that suitable homecare is introduced, and that a thorough skin care routine is followed prior to peeling, to prepare the skin appropriately. Melanocyte control should also be introduced at least one month prior to peeling, especially for Fitzpatrick Skin Types 1 to 6 and hyperpigmented skin concerns. Use of DermaFix MelanoDerm is recommended both pre-and post peel to minimise the risk of post- >

inflammatory hyperpigmentation formation, often associated with incorrect peeling systems. Sun exposure post peeling without use of a high protection sunscreen, like DermaFix DermaShield SPF40 or SPF50, will lead to an uneven skin tone.

Downtime will vary from client to client and will largely be dependent on the peeling medium used, the general health of the skin, as well as the age of the client. Typically, a client can expect to shed for a few days post-peel. Nourishment of this new skin is imperative and may be achieved with DermaFix Skin ResQ or HydraSooth SOS. The recently launched DermaFix CDB Lotion and soon-to-arrive DermaFix CBD Oil (THC Free) may be included for improved skin barrier restoration benefits.

RégimA

‘The Double Whammy’ Peel from RégimA is a time-dependent, two-layer combination peel designed to work down to the basal layer. These peels are not too ablative, yet produce the desired results without too much disruption to work and personal life. Applications include acne, hypertrophic scarring, irregular pigmentation, sun damage, wrinkles and skin ageing. Says Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA: “A powerful combination of natural acids and healing ingredients, this treatment is safe all year round, for all skin types, ethnicities and ages. These peels also have a brightening effect, more powerful than hydroquinone, but without any side effects.”

The Power Peel is formulated with a 60% combination of six natural AHAs, as in malic, lactic, citric, raspberry, apple and peach.

Acne Attack has 30% salicylic acid, 12% lactic acid, meadowsweet, and the botanical complex, phytelene complex.

Faucitt continues: “There is a very good profit margin for salons and spas when they offer this treatment. For example, the whole treatment will cost the salon under R100 and they charge a minimum of R750. Obviously prices vary between salons depending on their area and overheads. There is also the chance to add on treatment masques and serums and the client is required to purchase home care essentials, so upselling is easy.

“We highly recommend that the therapist also applies the peel to the backs of the hands whilst undergoing the treatment on the face. This may be offered to the client as a free anti-ageing hand treatment, to which the salon gives a value, e.g. R250. It is a great incentive when offering a series of peels to clients and costs the salon only a couple of rands extra. The client feels

totally treated and a lot more income has been generated for the salon. Happy client, happy salon owner.”

SIX Skincare

SIX Skincare has a variety of peels catering for skincare therapists as well as aesthetic doctors. These include the superficial Reveal Peels that cause epidermal injury. They are available in a choice of either Lactic Acid 30%, or Glycolic Acid 30%. Then there is the medium depth Retinoic Acid 35% + TCA 20% Peel, which causes injury into the papillary dermis. Lastly, there is the TCA Peel (TCA 50%), which penetrates into the skin deeper than AHA peels.

Says SIX founder Marisa Dimitriadis: “The ingredients used in all our peels are the pure acids, we do not mix or dilute them.”

She notes that from a revenue perspective, salons and aesthetic clinics can expect anything from a 500% to 1,000% mark-up for a peel service

“What makes SIX Skincare peeling different is that we combine aroma psychology and psycho dermatology in our peeling treatments, which

no other brand does,” continues Dimitriadis. “This means that we use different sensorial elements to enhance the treatment both physically and mentally, which play a huge role in the enjoyment of the treatment and in the healing process. To give one example, we have cold marble stones that we use to massage the skin after the peel, together with an oxygenating serum. This boosts the various benefits of lymph drainage, skin cooling and a relaxing massage, something no other brand delivers in their skin peeling.”

Nimue

The Nimue Smart Resurfacer Peel was developed as a superficial peel that creates the rejuvenation equivalent to that of a medium depth peel, but without the sideeffects that may be associated with deeper chemical peels.

Client discomfort has been minimised thanks to the oilbased and anhydrous (waterless) formula. As Nimue’s Smart Resurfacer Peel does not contain any water, there is no friction on the skin and thus minimised stinging and burning.

This treatment’s advanced formulation contains active ingredients that provide intensive rejuvenation within the skin. It includes salicylic acid, an excellent peeling ingredient with anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as pyruvic acid, a proven ingredient used in the treatment of acne, oily skin, enlarged pores, age spots and hyperpigmentation.

An anti-ageing benefit is achieved with alpha lipoic acid, a potent antioxidant that stimulates cell renewal and protects the skin against the effects of free radicals in the environment.

These actives, in addition to ingredients that actively reinforce the skin barrier, thus protecting it from overstimulation and preventing loss of moisture, offer incredible, visible results.

Thalgo

Thalgo la Beauté Marine has launched the first Marine Peel, rich in acids from fermented Micronised Marine Algae (MMA), the cornerstone and original patent of Thalgo.

This fermented MMA is titrated into lactic acid, which progressively renews skin quality, for a ‘new skin’ effect that’s visible from the first treatment.

Age, the environment (repeated exposure to sun and pollution) and lifestyle (smoking, alcohol) lead to slower epidermal skin renewal. Skin quality gradually deteriorates, encouraging the appearance of the visible signs of ageing, namely wrinkles, enlarged pores, dull skin tone, and lack of plumpness and firmness.

This is a progressive and customised method – ranging from a one-off treatment shot, to a three-week course for a more intense treatment.

New Skin Peel is a one-shot treatment (light dose) – Grade 1 {5% fermented acids from MMA, and 20% AHA/ PHA complex (glycolic and gluconic acids)}

The Anti-Ageing Peel is a two-week cure (medium dose) – Grade 2 {10% fermented acids from MMA, and 20% AHA/ PHA complex (glycolic and gluconic acids)}.

Photo-Ageing Peel is a threeweek cure (strong dose) – Grade 3 {15% fermented acids from MMA, and 30% AHA /PHA complex (glycolic and gluconic acids)}. PB