Hey Rhody Dining Guide May 2023

TAKE OUT TONIGHT

BANKING JUST GOT BETTER IN BARRINGTON.

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CONTENTS

News & Life

12 RHODY PETS: Three adoptable pets of the month

14 Food truck program prepares high school students for career training

16 THE PUBLIC’S RADIO:

RI James Beard finalist serves up Indigenous food in Charlestown

18 RHODY GEM: A specialty food market in Providence’s Fox Point neighborhood

20 FEATURE: Take a cultural culinary tour of Central Falls

On the Cover: Flavorful small

Dining

30 IN THE KITCHEN: Military mom shares culture and food with community

34 EXPERIENCE: An East Providence destination for health bowls

38 The delicious and sustainable properties of locally grown mushrooms

56 RESTAURANT GUIDE

Drinking

60 Providence’s new raw bar plans an equally elevated drink program

62 RECIPE: Floralforward cocktails and bites from a Warwick microgreens grower

64 Local bubble tea cafes delight all ages

68 CALENDAR : This month’s must-do’s

Entertaining

74 Look no further than area specialty shops to host an outdoor gathering

78 HOME: Designer reimagines a Barrington kitchen for entertaining

86 RHODY READS : A short stack of six food-focused books sure to satisfy

89 #HEYRHODYPHOTOS : Scenes from Cheers to Leading Ladies, held March 23 at Aloft Providence

bites. Photo by Marianne Lee, courtesy of Chi Kitchen.

Photo courtesy of RI Mushroom Co.

Photo by Kayla Aucoin, courtesy of AUCOIN

Photo by Catherine Dzilensk, courtesy of Gift Horse

SPRING INTO LOVE

KAYLA AUCOIN

Kayla Aucoin is a North Kingstown-based graphic designer, photographer, and marketer who can be found most weekends selling her line of stationery and tabletop goods at vendor markets across the state (check @aucoindesigns for sched). In “Let’s Eat Out” (page 74), she combines her talents to offer tips on entertaining al fresco using products from around Rhody.

ROSE KENYON

A South County native who makes her home in the Creative Capital, Rose Kenyon enjoys exploring her city, taking walks with neighbors, and working with nonprofit Leadership Rhode Island. In “Gifts of the Sea” (page 60), Kenyon introduces us to the two women mixing things up at Providence’s highly anticipated new raw bar.

ANDREA E. MCHUGH

This month’s cover story “From Their Table to Yours” (page 43) digs into the behind-the-scenes world of what it takes to get a food product from small batch to pantry shelf and the people whose mission it is to help make that possible. When she’s not writing about travel, lifestyle, and food, McHugh is often snapping pics of Newport where she lives with her family.

KOU TUKALA NYAN

Kou Tukala Nyan is a multidisciplinary artist and storyteller, so who better to experience a restaurant that got its start as a popular food truck serving up global flavors? Nyan’s descriptions in “Bring Home the Bowl” (page 34) are sure to have you heading to East Providence for a tasty hot meal paired with a cool smoothie.

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May 2023

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Contributing Photographers

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Contributing Writers

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Distribution

Photo courtesy of Jade Galvin

A Balanced Diet

The plucky Wakefield nonprofit helping to build more diverse and resilient marine ecosystems

By Abbie Lahmers

From tiny planktonic animals and filter feeders to the big fish in the sea – and everything in between – a healthy marine ecosystem is all about balance and diversity. So it shouldn’t come as a surprise that what we harvest from our local waters to eat factors into that equation, too.

“When you eat a diversity of local seafood species, particularly species that are really abundant in our ecosystems but haven’t received as much attention on menus, we’re allowing the ecosystems to maintain a more natural balance,” says Kate Masury, executive director of the aptly named Eating with the Ecosystem. Working with scientists, fishermen, and chefs across New England, the Wakefield-based nonprofit devises creative ways to sustain not only our wild seafood system, but also the people who depend on it.

This work takes the form of, for instance, a climate change initiative partnering with scientists to investigate the species moving into our region, and then taking that data to local seafood businesses to brainstorm ways of incorporating these shifts in species into their business models. It’s also cooking demonstrations highlighting regional catches, and citizen science projects sending seafood enthusiasts on the hunt for local species popping up in markets.

“We’re a pretty small organization, but we try to have a big impact,” says Masury, and the need has never been greater. “We’re seeing a lot of shifts in what our New England ecosystems look like over the years due to climate change and other factors, so we want to make sure those ecosystems are able to adapt.”

Our actions on land also trickle down into our marine ecosystems in the form of chemical fertilizers and harmful cleaning products – and choosing seafood from our waters not only closes the travel distance from food to plate, “but you’re also supporting your local community and the harvesters that brought that seafood to you,” says Masury.

And our own official state shellfish? “ Q uahogs

are a great shellfish to celebrate,” says Masury. “Oysters, kelp, and wild shellfish like quahogs are all species that actually clean up our local waters. Kelp captures carbon and is a great tool for carbon sequestration; oysters and other bivalves filter feed and help clean up our water.” The more of these organisms we harvest from the ocean, the more we’re also putting back into it, contributing to a thriving ecosystem.

In practice, eating in harmony with the ecosystem’s natural diversity can be daunting to the uninitiated. “People can get bogged down by what species it is, and I think it’s important to not think about what fish or shellfish it is, but what are its culinary characteristics – is it a flaky white mild-flavored fish? A briny shellfish? Is it a stronger, more high-oil

content fish? If you look at things that way, then you have a lot of options that are local that fit into those categories.”

By thinking outside the box, explains Masury, it creates markets for the underappreciated local species, which can then be fished in proportion to their natural abundances. “It gives the fishermen opportunities because then they have markets for the full variety of species that they’re allowed to catch.”

“When you eat local seafood, you have a greater incentive to care about the place that produced your food,” she continues. “A lot of times we don’t necessarily see what’s happening in the ocean and it can be more challenging to make that connection that healthy local ecosystems equal food production.”

P hoto courtesy of Kate Masury

Chef Tami Grooney of White Gate Farms leads a sugar kelp training for chefs from the Newport Restaurant Group and Russell Morin Catering

EAT WITH THE ECOSYSTEM

Plan your grocery list around the fresh-off-the-boat offerings from your local seafood market. Not sure how to cook these less familiar catches? Sign up for a Cook a Fish, Give a Fish online course featuring a New England chef walking you through each step. Last month’s class welcomed Jade Galvin of Sly Fox Den Too in Charlestown. EatingWithTheEcosystem.org

SCUP

“The filets that come off a scup tend to be a little smaller but they’re a great fish to cook whole,” says Masury. Grill, roast, or fry whole, or remove the pin bones for a small pan-fried filet or fish tacos. “You can even eat them raw; they’re delicious as a crudo or in a bowl.”

SKATE

“Skate’s one of my personal favorites. I think it tastes similar to scallops; it’s got a sweet flavor and a really unique texture.” Masury recommends pan searing or serving with a brown butter caper sauce. “You can do that on any fish and it would taste delicious.”

DOGFISH

“It’s definitely kind of underloved in the area but it’s often used in fish and chips in Europe. It fries up really well or it’s got a little bit more of a meaty texture but still a very mild flavor.”

CRAB

Sand crabs and Jonah crabs can be used interchangeably: “They’ve got this kind of flaky, really sweet crab meat flavor that’s great in a crab cake or roll.” Or green crabs, an invasive species that destroy eelgrass beds and salt marshes, “actually taste really good,” says Masury. “Smaller ones make a great stock or broth you can use in dishes like ramen or risotto.”

Rhody Pets of the Month

By Karen Kalunian

Looking to welcome a new furry friend into your home? Adopt, don’t shop!

Shelters around the state have dogs and cats ready to find their forever homes. Here are three pets ready to meet you, or reach out to the shelters to learn about even more adoptees.

If you have been thinking of adopting or if you know of an animal in need, please contact Karen directly at animaltalk1920@gmail.com.

TIMMY

This smart two-year-old “best boy” knows all of his basic commands and then some –he’ll even wait patiently for a treat! He has a gorgeous brindle coat, golden eyes, and the biggest smile, and he’s ready to be part of a loving family. This superstar is working on his agility training, too. Give the shelter a call to schedule a time to meet Timmy and see for yourself what a good pup he is.

Cranston Animal Shelter

464-8700

Shelter to Sofa: sheltertosofari@gmail.com

ARNOLD

Attention hound lovers: Arnold is the perfect match for you! This two-year-old hound mix has a contagious smile and zest for life. A tall boy, Arnold’s long legs are his most noticeable feature, along with his white and tan coat accented by light golden eyes. He loves going on long walks, and in true hound fashion, Arnold is very smart and likes to be busy, so a fenced-in yard would be best. Once he’s had his playtime, he’ll cozy up with you, too.

Heart of RI Animal Rescue

467-3670

HeartOfRI.org

Photo by Karen Kalunian

Timmy Arnold

Photo by Jessica Woody

With captivating golden eyes and a gorgeous black-and-white coat, Petra is simply magical. This tuxedo kitten (she’s only six months old) likes spending time with other cats. She’s a little on the shy side but once she gets to know you, she’s as playful as they come – and will quickly win you over with her stunning looks and fun personality!

Pawswatch at the Community Cat Care Center

285-9800

Communitycatcarecenter@gmail.com

PETRA

Photo by Karen Kalunian

Petra

In the Driver’s Seat

By Hugh Minor

The Rhode Island Department of Education (RIDE) is bringing learning to the streets with their newly launched Menu for Success. Through the grant program, 13 area high schools are funding food trucks that students design and operate, all while developing skills in entrepreneurship, culinary arts, automotive learning, graphic design, and more.

“As Rhode Island rebuilds and reimagines its education system, RIDE is thinking outside of the box,” says Commissioner Angélica Infante-Green. “Through Menu for Success, we will provide our students with real-life experience in entrepreneurship, management, and accounting, sharpen their culinary skills and spark their creativity.”

Thirteen local education agencies (LEAs) have committed to participate in the initiative: Central Falls, Chariho, Cranston, Coventry, Davies Career & Technical High

School, East Providence, Lincoln, Newport, Pawtucket, Providence, Warwick, Westerly, and Woonsocket.

A TASTE OF THE REAL WORLD

The goal of Menu for Success is to move learning beyond the classroom and into the community, where students can gain practical real-world experience that will aid in their future careers. As Lamel Moore, community connections and partnership liaison for the Pawtucket School Department, explains, “We want to make this the best and most outstanding learning experience that it can be. Students will have the opportunity to participate both inside and outside of the classroom. That is a great learning experience. It can be invaluable.”

“It’s not just culinary classes,” Moore adds. Schools can determine how to incorporate the food truck development into their curriculum. In East Providence, for example,

Automotive Technology Program students work on fixing and maintaining the trucks as part of their regular course studies. “Students from every area of focus can be involved. Graphic design students can map out the look of the trucks. Finance students can be involved from a business sense. The scope and breadth of what these students can do is outstanding. It really is unlimited.”

AN INVESTMENT FOR THE FUTURE

The $1.6 million cost of the statewide program includes approximately $125,000 toward each truck, purchased through a joint request for proposals, plus additional support and resources provided by RIDE. Participating schools are expected to maintain the custom-fitted food trucks, which are expected to arrive this spring.

The program design was inspired by Rhode Island’s reputation as a food tourism

A high school food truck program gives students real-world, hands-on experience

Warwick Area Career and Technical Center students join Commissioner Infante-Green and school leaders in celebrating Menu for Success

Photos courtesy of RIDE

destination, with the popularity of food trucks on the rise worldwide. Students have the chance to be part of that exciting industry trend. At William M. Davies, Jr. Career and Technical High School in Lincoln, director Mary Watkins can’t wait to get the program up and running. “Food trucks are a fantastic small business and culinary learning opportunity, and – at Davies especially – a food truck will provide a great allhands-on-deck project for students in our culinary, electrical, automotive, and graphics technical programs.”

Each LEA is pursuing different options, from truck size to deciding on a trailer or a full-service vehicle, along with what kind of cooking equipment will go inside – a food truck business designed for baking, for instance, will look different than one serving hot wings. In January, representatives from each of the participating organizations met at the Cranston Area Career and Technical Center to review their options and tour two successful and well-known local food trucks: Nanu Burmese Fusion and Food Vibes.

OPENING DOORS FOR EVERY STUDENT

Through industry exposure, RIDE’s Menu for Success initiative aims to open doors for students of color and increase the number who graduate with a defined plan for continued success. Although Rhode Island’s food sector accounts for countless jobs and billions of dollars in sales annually, not everyone has historically been invited to the table. The state lags far behind in creating opportunities to own and operate food businesses for people of color, who make up only 2 percent of Rhode Island’s 14,000 restaurants. This program hopes to address that issue.

The big picture, as Moore explains, is “having students perform at the highest level in ways that will make them proud and get the most out of them as well. These students will be exposed to countless opportunities. This can be the pipeline for so many outstanding experiences.”

RIDE plans to hold an event October 21, 2023 at Chase Farm in Lincoln, bringing together all 13 food trucks to celebrate the culinary arts in Rhode Island. For more information on the program, visit RIDE.RIgo v

COURTHOUSE CENTER FOR THE ARTS

SATURDAY 4/29 | 8PM

THE DOOBIE BROTHERS TAKIN’ IT TO THE STREETS

SUNDAY 5/7 | 6PM

CLAY MELTON

FRIDAY 5/12 | 8PM

BAD COMPANY - ROCK STEADY

SATURDAY 5/13 | 7:30PM

BEACH BOYS - THE DRIFTWOODS

FRIDAY 5/19 | 7:30PM

VAN MORRISON TRIBUTE MOONDANCE

THURSDAY 5/25 | 1:30PM

ELVIS - ROBERT BLACK SHOW

FRIDAY 5/26 | 7:30PM

THE STEVE PATI BAND

70’S ROCK & ROLL

FRIDAY 6/2 | 8PM

THE ONE HIT WONDERERS 70’S

80’S TOP ROCK & ROLL SONGS

Simple Perfection

Our founder’s last and neverreleased design has been put into production to commemorate our 75th Anniversary. Each bowl is made to order, place yours online today!

peter pots pottery

494 Glen Rock Rd., W. Kingston

Acouple years ago, chef Sherry Pocknett was driving through Charlestown after a ceremony at the Narragansett Indian Tribe reservation, looking for a gas station. She came across a small, red building at a fork in the road, surrounded mostly by woods and a few homes. A sign said the space was available for lease.

“I said, ‘Oh, that’s a cute little place,’” Pocknett said. “And I came back and wrote the number down and called, and we were in here the next month, I think. Took a while to open up. It doesn’t happen overnight. But we did it. Now we’re going on our third year.”

Pocknett’s restaurant is called Sly Fox Den Too. In the few years it’s been open, the restaurant has gotten a lot of attention and praise. It draws in regulars, summer vacationers, and foodies who’ve seen the restaurant featured in media coverage.

The menu features everything from spicy firecracker shrimp and grits, to bison bratwurst over Indian fry bread with peppers and onions, to a vegan bowl with corn cakes and three sisters rice.

Seafood is prominent on the menu. Depending on the season, you might find smoked salmon, soft shell crab, seared bluefish, quahogs,

RI James Beard Award Semifinalist Serves Up Indigenous Foods and Stories in Charlestown

The James Beard Foundation has nominated three Rhode Island chefs as semifinalists for the honor of best chef in the Northeast region. Among them is Sherry Pocknett, a member of the Mashpee Wampanoag Tribe whose cooking showcases the ingredients and traditions of local indigenous cuisine, with a focus on comfort foods.

By Alex Nunes

scallops, littleneck clams, mussels, and more. On a recent visit, Pocknett reflected on her career and cooked a recipe for black sea bass.

“They’re a New England fish, and they’re delicious,” she said. “They’re the most flavorful fish, I think. My favorite. They’re more meaty than cod fish. They’re more flavorful than haddock. And it’s a white fish, and people like white fish. And I like to personally stuff these babies.”

Pocknett began by cutting off the fins and clearing the cavities where she’ll fill the bass she bought from a local fish market. She left the heads on and scored the meaty part of the fish with a knife to make it easier to eat when it’s done.

Pocknett then heated up a pan on the stove for chopped celery, peppers, onions, and a slab of butter. She added in thick-cut chunks of cooked lobster meat, and when that was done cooking, she mixed in crushed Ritz crackers.

As she cooked, Pocknett described her path to becoming a chef.

“I grew up on Cape Cod, Massachusetts. I’m a part of the Mashpee Wampanoag Tribe,” she said. “And we love fish. I grew up in the bay. My dad was a fisherman. My brothers – all fishermen. And we just really loved fish.”

Pocknett said she began cooking around eight years old after she got a Suzy Homemaker [toy oven] as a gift.

“I got it for Christmas and stole everything out of my mother’s refrigerator: deer meat, quahogs, rabbit, whatever it was my father caught,” she said.

Pocknett cooked up meals and gave them to her brothers. “They ate everything,” she said.

Pocknett said you can taste the influence of her Wampanoag background in the seafood dishes at Sly Fox Den Too, and in the inclusion of indigenous, seasonal ingredients.

“Indigenous, meaning right from here,” she said. “Right now, I wouldn’t serve asparagus even though you see asparagus served everywhere. It grows somewhere. But I only do asparagus at asparagus season, in April to May.”

Pocknett filled the black sea bass with lobster and slid the fish into a 400-degree oven. After about 15 minutes or so, she pulled out the pan with stuffed bass for tasting.

“Isn’t it yummy?” she said. “Yummy, yummy.”

When asked what she loves about cooking, Pocknett said, “I love feeding people.”

“It makes them happy. It educates them,” she said. “If someone hasn’t had deer meat

Chef Sherry Pocknett of Sly Fox Den Too in Charlestown displays her black sea bass stuffed with lobster meat

Photos by Alex Nunes

before, you know, deer’s indigenous. It was the meat [we ate]. We didn’t have pigs. We didn’t have chickens, or we didn’t have cows before the Mayflower got here. And for us to teach people about what was here and how we cooked, it’s a great joy for someone to say, ‘Oh, wow, really? I didn’t know that.’”

“And that’s just like educating people, so that they’re going to end up educating other people and telling other people the story,” Pocknett said. “And it’s just a great way to do it, through food and stories.”

Pocknett learned much of what she knows about cooking from her mom and grandmother. She didn’t go to culinary school. She worked in her uncle’s kitchen when she was younger and learned by watching cooking shows on TV.

Pocknett has cooked for powwows and run a catering business for years. Before opening her own restaurant, she worked at the Pequot Cafe at the Mashantucket Pequot Tribe’s museum in Connecticut, helping transform the menu to include dishes like frog legs, corn chowder, and turtle soup.

When she found out she was a regional James Beard Award semifinalist, the news was unexpected.

“Somebody called me and said, ‘You got nominated for the James Beard.’ I was like, ‘I did?’” Pocknett said. “I was shocked. Honestly, I was shocked. I mean, I’m just a smalltime girl. You know, I’m just a small-time girl that loves cooking by the seasons.”

Pocknett said the nomination has brought in new visitors who want to try Sly Fox Den Too. But even with the success and recognition, she said running the restaurant has come with challenges.

“It’s very hard. And this is a small restaurant, and it’s hard to keep afloat, because you have

your ups and your downs. We’re getting popular, though. And we’re getting more busy,” she said.

“Right now I have cancer. I have breast cancer. So I’m not even cooking, my daughter’s cooking. And I’m lucky that they learned everything from [when they were] little kids, because we’ve been on the road for different powwows, and they’ve been catering with me their whole life, since they were eight years old. And they’re really, really good at it. So I’m lucky that I have them to, you know, run this restaurant while I get better. And then that’s upward from there, we hope.”

Pocknett has a big project ahead of her. She’s working to open another restaurant in Preston, CT – a plan that’s been in the works since before opening Sly Fox Den Too. It will be much larger than the small, diner-style space in Charlestown. The total capacity is nearly 200 people.

“My youngest daughter and I will be over there. We’ll have to hire, of course, a big, big crew to go in there. But we got a lot of work to do before we can open,” Pocknett said. “We’re hoping to open within the next six months.”

“But I love cooking, and I love what I do. And I think my kids love it too, or else I don’t think they’d be here,” she said. “And they both are really good cooks. I’m extremely happy and proud of them.”

NOTE: On March 29, the James Beard Foundation announced that chef Pocknett is one of the five finalists for the regional award. This is one of three stories on the Rhode Island semifinalists for the James Beard award for best chef in the Northeast region. Find stories on Milena Pagán of Little Sister, and Rob Andreozzi of Pizza Marvin at ThePublicsRadio. org. This article was originally posted on March 13, 2023. Alex Nunes can be reached at ANunes@ThePublicsRadio.org

Lobster chunks cook on the stove top at Sly Fox Den Too in Charlestown

Hawes Fine Foods

Specialty Grocery Store

What it is:

A specialty grocery store that offers a curated selection of hard-to-find and unique local and international food and inspired kitchen items.

Where to find it:

Tucked in the residential neighborhood of Fox Point, Hawes Fine Foods is next to Persimmon and across from Dolores Restaurant. Look for the huge mural of fruits and veggies.

What makes it a Rhody Gem?

Hawes Fine Foods is a foodie’s paradise of pastas, chocolates, rare produce items, and tinned fish. The shelves are stocked with many local grocery and produce items like milk from Wright’s Dairy Farm, cheese from Narragansett Creamery, kombucha from Fully Rooted, and meats and seafood from Wild Earth Farm and Fearless Fish. Hawes also sources unique items from places as far-flung as Greece (think dolmades – stuffed grape leaves – and whole honeycomb Greek honey), Japan (chocolate and yuzu miso, matcha milk jam, black garlic shoyu); and France (rose petal confit and kiwi jams, tarragon Dijon mustard, Pico soft goat cheese). They also carry Providence’s largest selection of conservas (tinned fish), harboring from Spain, Portugal, and Alaska. “Only food has the ability to transport you without ever having to leave your kitchen,” says owner Kevin Hawes.

Hawes Fine Foods

107 ½ Hope Street • 302-5623

HawesFineFoods.com

Every neighborhood has that secret, hidden, cool and unusual, or hole-in-the-wall spot that locals love. We’re on the hunt for Rhody Gems! Email Elyse@ProvidenceOnline.com to suggest yours and we just might feature it!

Photo courtesy of Hawes Fine Foods

Destination: Central Falls

A world of gastronomic treasures awaits along Blackstone Valley

By Emily Olson

Twenty percent of the world’s countries are represented among the people of Blackstone Valley, and the area’s restaurants reflect that cornucopia of cultures, says James Toomey, director of marketing for Blackstone Valley Tourism. “Our restaurants tell the story of the people who are here, and that story has evolved over hundreds of years,” he says.

The area’s diversity is largely due to northern Rhode Island being the “birthplace of the Industrial Revolution,” and as the movement gathered speed, factories outgrew the local workforce and people seeking employment began to immigrate to the area, which includes Central Falls, Pawtucket, Woonsocket, East Providence, and other towns along the Blackstone River Watershed. “Those new to the country wanted some comfort,” says Toomey. “They looked for a way to maintain their heritage and be with their people.” And because nothing provides an opportunity to gather quite like a good meal, they opened restaurants.

“There are a lot of Mexican, Guatemalan, and Portuguese restaurants in Central Falls. Stanley’s was started by a Polish immigrant,” says Toomey of the popular hamburger joint founded in 1932. “Woonsocket restaurants are influenced by the French Canadian immigrants. There’s a huge Portuguese population in East Providence with restaurants so authentic that the Azorean president dined there.” These restaurants are small, comfortable, affordable, and generous. “I once ordered lunch at El Paisa,” Toomey continues. “They brought my meal and I thought, ‘Wow. That’s a lot of food.’ And then they brought over another plate!”

Toomey says that the area restaurants serve anything but watered-down, Americanized versions of traditional recipes. “It’s easy to lump cuisines together,” says Toomey. “You might think Mexican food is Mexican food, right? But the owners of Taqueria Lupita come from a different region of Mexico than the owners of Tuxpan Taqueria, and you can

P hoto by Emily Olson

Taqueria Lupita on Dexter Street

taste the regional difference.” Toomey challenges anyone who thinks they know guacamole to stop at La Casona and sample the Colombian version.

“Central Falls, in particular, is this cool, walkable area, and on Dexter Street you can find a different restaurant on every block,” says Toomey. “For the people who live and work here, it’s not just about owning a restaurant or making a lot of money – it’s about sharing their culture and feeding their community.”

CENTRAL FALLS FOOD TOUR

Starting at Central Falls’ southern border, the stretch of Dexter Street offers a culinary world tour of restaurants, listed here in order of location.

EL ANTOJO BAKERY AND RESTAURANT

STANLEY’S FAMOUS HAMBURGERS

SPARKY’S RESTAURANT

EL PAISA

VILLAGE PIZZA

GRATED MIX

GOODFELLAS TAVERN (temporarily closed for renovations)

LA MILONGA

LA HERRADURA TAQUERIA

LOS TRES AMIGO TAQUERIA

MIRIAN TIPICO RESTAURANT

TAQUERIA LUPITA

BUBBLE WAFFLE CAFÉ

LA FRUTA LOCA

GEORGIA’S FAMILY RESTAURANT

LEARN TO SWIM

LESSONS ARE AVAILABLE FOR AGES 6 MONTHS TO 15 YEARS AT ANY EXPERIENCE LEVEL.

For Young Designers 8-19

TEENS AGESJuly 24-28

TWEENS AGESJuly 17-21

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ELANA@PROJECTFASHIONWORKS.COM

Relatively new to the neighborhood is Bub ble Waffle Cafe on 874 Dexter Street. The husband-and-wife owners always stopped scrolling when images of bubble waffle cones – overflowing with ice cream and topped with piles of whipped cream and fruit – appeared on their social media feed. The look of the In stagram-worthy treat drew them in, and they wondered if it would have the same effect on their neighbors. They began experimenting with batter recipes and hunting for the per fect location to open their own cafe – pausing briefly to also welcome their new baby. “We’re happy that when we started, we didn’t know how much work it would all be,” says Stephanie Munoz, who now is delighted with the success of her family business. “People in the neigh borhood know us. We always see familiar faces, but every day there are new people.”

The cafe, which opened in September 2021, serves a variety of bubble waffle cones with pre-selected toppings, as well as build-yourown cones, crepes, milkshakes, and bubble tea. Munoz has seasonal favorites and says that although the crepes are a perfect cool-weath er treat, the bubble waffle cones are summer show stoppers.

Other restaurants have been deeply in grained in the fabric of Central Falls for de cades. In 1976, Cesar Zuleta’s father took his family and fled to Central Falls to escape the violent cartels in Colombia. He took a job, but realized quickly that his entrepreneurial spirit wouldn’t allow him to work for anyone, so he bought a restaurant with a friend. That friend left the business, but El Paisa, on 598 Dexter Street, continued to grow under fam ily ownership, eventually taking over an en tire building and claiming its place as the first Colombian restaurant in Central Falls. Zule ta now co-owns the restaurant with his sister, Diana Rivera, who learned to cook from her father, while Zuleta did every chore imagin able in the restaurant growing up. “I got so sick of it,” he says. “I wanted to be a pilot.” But the family business pulled him back and today he proudly serves platters of delicious Colombian cuisine.

Zuleta says their Bandeja Colombian is a musttry menu item. It comes with a choice of meat, ac companied by salad, beans, rice, yucca, potatoes, bacon, bread, and sweet fried bananas. “We’re big eaters in Colombia,” Zuleta says with a laugh.

P hoto courtesy of Bubble Waffle Cafe

Bubble Waffle Cafe quickly became a destination for sweet scoops in Central Falls

SUMMER CAMPS & COURSES

Girls Summer Leadership Camps

Developing Leaders, Finding Purpose & Making a Difference

Week one: July 24-28

Week two: July 31-Aug 4

Lincoln School

Providence

Registration online: www.girlsleadershipcollaborative.com

Bertina Ramos emigrated from Mexico to New York when she was just 16, nine years after her mother made the same journey. She married at 17, and she and her husband eventually made their way to Rhode Island, where they opened Taqueria Lupita on 765 Dexter Street in Central Falls. On the sign above their door is the picture of their now-grown daughter Lupita –one of four children – at nine months old. “She was already walking!” says Ramos with pride.

Ramos does all the cooking for their five-table restaurant, and her husband does all the chopping. Ramos’ recipes come from her grandmother’s kitchen, and she says diners can expect authentic food made with fresh, healthy ingredients. Her recipes are simple by design. “I cook for my restaurant what I’d cook for my

family,” she says. And although the restaurant doesn’t have a liquor license, diners are welcome to bring their own. Check the restaurant’s Facebook page for updated hours – when Ramos finds an inexpensive flight, she and her husband never hesitate to take impromptu vacations. “I can do that because I’m retired!” she says and heads back into the kitchen to prepare for the dinner rush.

Not far away, on 1420 Broad Street in Pawtucket, Shark’s Peruvian Cuisine is one of the few Rhode Island restaurants where you can eat al fresco along the Blackstone River, and the restaurant’s paved double-decker patio offers beautiful views. Carlos Valverde’s parents opened one of the state’s first Peruvian restaurants, El Tiburon – the Spanish

word for shark. When his parents retired and closed the restaurant, Valverde opened Shark’s Lounge in Pawtucket, then expanded into his current location during the pandemic lockdowns. Because of COVID-related delayed shipping, it took him a while to get started. “All my plates, forks, and knives come from Peru, and they got stuck in shipping containers at the ports,” he says. Even some of his cooking equipment comes from Peru, including a coal-operated rotisserie oven.

“My parents’ restaurant attracted a lot of families from all over, and I want to carry on that legacy,” says Valverde. “I have a lot of Peruvian customers, but the thing that brings me the most joy is serving people of other nationalities. I like being able to share my culture.”

P hoto courtesy of Shark’s Peruvian

Authentic Peruvian cuisine from Shark’s

Beer, Wine & Spirits Trail Rhody

Beer, Wine Rhody

APPONAUG BREWING CO.

Visit our beautiful taproom located in the historic and iconic Pontiac Mills. Enjoy views of the Pawtuxet river while savoring a diverse tap list, craft cocktails and delicious food. 334 Knight Street, Warwick. (401) 744-0415, ApponaugBrewing.com

FOOLPROOF BREWING COMPANY

This Pawtucket staple brews on premise and is open 7 days a week o ering daytime hours, game nights, outdoor seating, cans to-go and more. 241 Grotto Ave #1, Pawtucket. (401) 721-5970. BreweryCollective.com

Enjoy a full lineup of artisan craft beer, cocktails & spirits. Relax inside our family-friendly taproom with a board game, or enjoy the sunshine on our pet friendly outdoor beer garden. Wood burning pizza oven on site. 65 Canal St., Westerly. 401.596.4151, GreySailBrewing.com

THE GUILD PVD BEER GARDEN

Along the Providence River next to the new pedestrian bridge, the beer garden will o er a wide variety of Guild Brewing Company beers and hard seltzers with a view! The Beer Garden will be open Wed.–Sun. starting May 27. TheGuildRI.com

JONATHAN

At Jonathan Edwards Winery, enjoy award winning wine in a relaxed picturesque setting. Open daily, year round. Shop wine and event tickets online at JEdwardsWinery.com.

RI’s largest craft brewery serves up small-batch beers and hard seltzers in its large beer hall and beer garden. Open to the public Tuesday through Sunday with private event space available. 461 Main St., Pawtucket. TheGuildRI.com

THE GUILD WARREN

The Guild Warren is a smallbatch brewery and beer hall located on the waterfront in Warren. O ering a full food menu, it will be open Tuesday through Sunday. 99 Water Street, Warren, TheGuildRI.com

A charming and romantic winery, located a stones throw from Rhode Island’s best beaches. Making delicious and local wines for 18 years. 308 Shore Rd., Westerly. LangworthyFarm.com

THE GUILD PAWTUCKET

EDWARDS WINERY

GREY SAIL BREWING OF RI & SOUTH COUNTY DISTILLERS

LANGWORTHY FARM WINERY

& Spirits Trail

SEE PREVIOUS PAGE FOR MAP OF LOCATIONS

MAUGLE SIERRA VINEYARDS

Maugle Sierra is a Coastal Connecticut vineyard specializing in Jamie, Delicious Red Wines. Our locally crafted wines are best enjoyed with friends. O ering live music Saturday and Sunday year-round. Shop our wines: MaugleSierraVineyards.com.

SALTWATER FARM VINEYARDS 12

Located in an impeccably restored WWII-era airplane hangar, the tasting room overlooks acres of vineyard and a preserved grass landing strip from the 1930s. 349 Elm St., Stonington, CT. SaltwaterFarmVineyard.com

STONINGTON VINEYARDS

Stonington Vineyards is a boutique farm winery located on the CT Wine Trail, open 7 days a week, yearround from 11am to 5 pm.

523 Taugwonk Rd, Stonington, CT. stoningtonvineyards.com

TILTED BARN BREWERY

Located in our authentic, New England-style post and beam barn, we at Tilted Barn Brewery are proud to be Rhode Island’s first farm brewery. One Hemsley Pl., Exeter. TiltedBarnBrewery.com

RHODE ISLAND SPIRITS

Pawtucket’s award winning Rhodium gins & vodkas feature flavors built from fresh, farmed & foraged ingredients. Newly relocated. Tasting Flights & Cocktails. 40 Bayley St., Pawtucket, RI. RhodeIslandSpirits.com

Inspired globally. Brewed locally. Shaidzon brews with a passion to introduce delicious beers with influences from all over the world to the New England craft beer scene. 141 Fairgrounds Road, West Kingston. ShaidzonBeer.com

TAPPED APPLE CIDERY & WINERY

Tapped Apple Cidery & Winery turning locally sourced apples into a variety of handcrafted hard ciders and wines.

37 High Street, Westerly. TappedApple.com

SHAIDZON BEER CO.

The Chef Wears Combat Boots

By Abbie Lahmers

ot a lot of people realize that rice paper comes dry and all you do is rehydrate it to soften it,” says Pin Minyvong of Pins Kytchen in Warren. She’s describing one step in the process of making Nime Chow, also known as spring rolls – the clear-wrapped veggie-filled delicacy she’s become known for. “We used to roll them fresh at farmers markets. It was like a show – customers would see us taking the rice paper, dipping it in water, airing it out a little bit, and putting the toppings inside. That’s absolutely my favorite thing to make because it really sparks an interest and conversation.”

Like many small food business owners, Pin Minyvong’s journey from home cook to catering chef began with Instagram. Documenting her fitness journey in 2014, she started devising low-carb Asian-inspired recipes and posting them on her page, piquing the interest of many followers and friends who started requesting meal prep dishes. “When I got to 100 meals I was prepping in one day for a week, that’s when I realized, I need to get into a commercial space

because this is going somewhere,” she says.

Unlike other chefs launching a business, though, Minyvong’s meal prep service (then called Minymeals) sometimes has to come second to her military career. When she was deployed during the holidays in 2020 to Kuwait, instead of cooking from a commercial kitchen space at Hope & Main in Warren, she relied on rice papers sent from home – and veggies and meats from the DFAC – to make spring rolls for friends. She had the idea to give Rhode Island food businesses some international exposure while also making care packages for the troops, so she called Hope & Main founder and president Lisa Raiola. “When you ask Lisa to do anything, she will do about 20 times what you ask her,” says Minyvong with a laugh. Dubbed Operation RI Made, the initiative brought in not one but 40 boxes of local goods. The time overseas also gave Minyvong pause to reassess the trajectory of her business and strike a work-life balance. “I wanted to be home with family more,” she recalls. “I have a nine-year-old daughter and she doesn’t know

anything else except myself and her father in the military, so she’s always used to one parent being there and one parent not being there.”

In its early years, Minymeals kept Minyvong busy doing farmers market pop-ups, meal prep, and events. The recent iteration, Pins Kytchen, is more streamlined and specializes in innovative Asian-fusion cuisine. “We call ourselves a boutique caterer,” says Minyvong. “We can’t take all the jobs we get.”

Pins Kytchen also gives back to the community through Hope & Main’s Nourish Our Neighbors program. “Think of it like a full circle,” Minyvong explains. Hope & Main pays small food businesses for chef-prepared meals each week, and for every purchase of a meal, one is donated to a food-insecure family. A portion of ingredients must also be from local suppliers. “Not only are we getting paid to do these meals, but it’s also going back into the economy. It’s a win-win.”

Minyvong has always led with a service-minded approach. “It’s not just about the food,” she says. “One of my goals is to be able to employ those in underserved communities.” Growing

For an Asian-fusion cuisine catering chef and USAF veteran, food is her love language

P hotos courtesy of Pins Kytchen

up a first-generation Southeast Asian-American to refugee parents from Laos, Minyvong can relate to others transitioning to a new country and trying to find work, and wants to employ those facing language or cultural barriers with fair wages. “We can bridge that gap for them and they’ll feel comfortable working at a place where we understand where they came from. That’s where I want to take this.”

Since returning from deployment, Minyvong has been able to carve out the balance she’s craved. She now works part time at the military base and her day job is in the nonprofit sphere as a programs manager for small businesses. When not catering, she’s putting on a steaming pot of pho to share with her family. Minyvong notes that the “Y” in Pins Kytchen alludes to her own name and her daughter’s, and is a reminder of where she started: “It’s a memory of when my daughter was a baby and she would always find me in the kitchen. It was where love was expressed through cooking.” Pins Kytchen services all of RI; follow on @pins_kytchen or visit PinsKytchen.com.

PLACE FOR SUSHI

Find Pins Kytchen meals popping up in the Nourish Our Neighbors fridge in the Hope & Main Downtown Makers Marketplace at 100 Westminster Street, Providence.

Beyond Salads

By Patty J

Eating plant-based at restaurants used to be a challenge, unless you were fine with settling for a house salad or perhaps some grilled veggies. Fast forward to today’s dining scene, especially here in Rhode Island, with menus offering an abundance of delectable (and creative) veggie-forward dishes – even at spots that aren’t strictly vegan. Here’s a handful of under-the-radar eateries to add to your veg-friendly go-tos.

Enerjy

This Mediterranean eatery on Warwick Avenue, whose tagline is “eat well, live well,” is a delicious spot to indulge in a meat-free feast. The list of possibilities is nearly endless, with everything from a vegetable gyro and bean salad to lentil wraps, spanakopita (Greek spinach pie), rice pilaf, and mushroom dishes that will change your life. Warwick, EnerjyFood.com

Foglia

This cozy Italian bistro that opened last year is completely plant based. Having enjoyed their scratch-made pasta, bread, and sweets on a date night with my husband, I can tell you vegan doesn’t have to mean second-rate. The food was as yummy as anything I’ve eaten while on vacay in Italy, and that’s saying a lot. Bristol, FogliaBristol.com

Gansett Wraps

Since their first location opened, sandwich lovers have been flocking to GW for their incredibly fresh and expertly rolled wraps. It also happens to be an oasis for plant-based eaters who love their Crazy Veggie, The Works (featuring falafel, hummus, and tabouleh), the Vegan Wrap, and their signature Gansett with breaded eggplant. Narragansett, Middletown & Westerly, GansettWraps.com

Keenwah Super Food Eatery

Situated on Bellevue Avenue inside A Market, this micro eatery is popular with those in the know in the City By The Sea for casual breakfast and lunch. Specializing in organic health food with local ingredients, they have plenty of choices for veg eaters, including smoothies, tempeh burgers, and hummus wraps, along with vegan mochi for dessert. Newport, MyAMarket.com

From vegan cafes to veggie-forward eateries, these hidden gems lure plant-based diners with creative fare

Along with kale salads featuring meatless chicken, Vita Sana is known for veggie wraps, toasts, and more

Photo by @onyxmediastudios and @the_creative_avenue, courtesy of Vita Sana

New Wave Kitchen

Known for sourcing from regional farmers and using organic produce as much as possible, this Main Street restaurant with local art hanging on their walls has become known for their ramen. A not-so-secret menu of meat-free small and large plates boasts offerings such as Veggie Buns and a Killer Tofu Bowl. Wakefield, NewWaveKitchenRI.com

Rasa

Indian cuisine often goes hand in hand with veggie dishes, and Rasa is no exception, with an extensive menu dedicated to vegetarian apps and mains that customers gush about. Go for the Cucumber Martini or Strawberry Lassi mocktail, and stick around for the lentil soup, edamame dumplings, Cauliflower 65, and okra fries. East Greenwich, RasaRestaurantRI.com

Sprout & Lentil

Chef Carmen Foy is always cooking up mouthwatering vegan versions of classic eats that look and taste just as outstanding as the traditional versions. I’ve sampled the burgers, fries, apps, and desserts, and can honestly say they are five-star. Grab takeout at her shop on Aquidneck Avenue or look for Sprout & Lentil at farmers markets and festivals. Middletown, SproutAndLentil.com

Veggie Fun

Open since 2012, Veggie Fun switched to an all vegan menu in January of 2016 and never looked back. Customers at this casual, fine (but not formal) dining Asian fusion restaurant adore their miso soup, spring rolls, pineapple fried rice, dumplings, and pad thai. If you’re bringing the kids along, order the crunchy soy nuggets. Pro v idence, VeggieFunRI.com

Vita Sana

This new vegan cafe, situated inside Raffa Yoga, is helmed by the folks behind PiANTA on Atwells Avenue in Providence. You don’t have to wear yoga pants or sign up for a vinyasa class to grab a white bean hummus or sprout-covered avocado toast and a fresh-pressed lemonade or smoothie at this spot. Cranston, VitaSanaRI.com

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Bring Home the Bowl

SPICY KIM NOODLE BOWL

Spicy Kim Noodles

Pink Paradise Smoothie

Photos courtesy of Incred-A-Bowl

Live Music & bay views Live Music & bay Views

Now Open Now Open fRESH sEAFOOD dAILY fRESH sEAFOOD dAILY

ON THE ROAD

Along with their dine-in digs, the Incred-A-Bowl truck is back in action for food truck season. Watch for them popping up across the state by following @bowledflavor. Don’t miss their From Food Truck to Restaurant event celebrating 10 years on May 20 at the East Providence restaurant.

October, planted their roots in the new brick and mortar. Now with a solid homebase, the Spellmans can do more of what they’ve always done: bring people together with multicultural food.

Once we were welcomed into the joyful throng, my friend and I scanned a QR code on the front counter to view the menu. Their easyto-use website also allows for online orders if you’re in a hurry, but I would recommend staying for a while to enjoy the communal atmosphere.

We ordered our drinks and bowls at the counter, starting with the Sanas Sorrel. This floral and fruity drink was tart and sweet with hibiscus tea, ginger, apple, and peach. My friend was a fan of the Pink Paradise Smoothie, a vibrant strawberry

blend with coconut water. She described it as “light and refreshing with hints of banana.”

The invigorating bevvies were a nice complement to our main courses. I indulged in the Spicy Kim Noodle Bowl without seeds. This healthy bowl was a mix of crispy onions, chicken, and sauteed vegetables with thick and chewy udon noodles. Seasoned with Asianinspired sauces and topped with kimchi, it offered a nice spicy kick.

My friend raved about the Mac n Cheese Bowl with tender shredded jerk chicken –the sauce paired wonderfully with the three cheeses, creating a warming union of spicy and creamy. With entrees showcasing flavors from

across the world, the next stop on our culinary map was the Korean BBQ Bowl. The rich saltysweet umami flavors shined in this dish. The marinated beef and soft rice soaked up the teriyaki sauce, making each bite spectacular. To top it off, veggie slaw and an oozing fried egg added a myriad of pleasing tastes and textures.

We left Incred-A-Bowl satisfied and in high spirits, riding the energy of the staff and patrons around us. The cafe more than lives up to its name – it was definitely an incredible experience.

Incred-A-Bowl

1075 S Broadway, East Providence IncredABowlFood.com • @bowledflavor

Photos courtesy of Incred-A-Bowl

From Boat t Plate

What started as a clam shack in 1944 is now one of the state’s most beloved seafood institutions. Champlin’s Seafood Deck, located right on the water in the heart of Galilee, serves the freshest seafood you’re going to find anywhere in Rhode Island. But clam shack fare is only part of the package. The restaurant also has a raw bar and great cocktails, which are best enjoyed with the breathtaking view from their Channel Bar. OPENS ON APRIL 3RD

5 Fresh

From fresh oysters to lobster dinner, experience essential Rhode Island flavors at Champlin’s Seafood Deck.

1 2 3

The Seafood Market

Nothing beats buying seafood right o the boat. Below the Seafood Deck, Champlin’s Market sells incredible, fresh seafood – everything from live lobsters to shrimp, scallops, and fish. Their prepared options include smoked salmon and bluefish, stu ed quahogs and scallops, cooked crabs and lobsters, and marinated salads of calamari, mussels, or octopus. OPEN DAILY

Raw Bar

Cherrystones, littlenecks, oysters, jumbo shrimp, and colossal shrimp

Red, White, Clear Chowder

Available in half pints, pints, and quarts

Lo ter Dinner

Served with fries and cole slaw

4 5 Fried Whole Belly Clams

Served with fries and cole slaw

Clam Bake with Lo ter

Served with red potatoes

Meet Your Mushroom Growers

Farmers on a mission to enlighten folks on their delicious and pollution-fighting crop

By Abbie Lahmers

Not every agriculture business starts with seeds and soil – some operate out of sterilizing autoclaves the size of tractor trailers and vast fruiting rooms to colonize all varieties of fungal wonders. Now a household name, RI Mushroom Co. put Rhode Island on the map for growing everything from Shiitakes to Pioppinos.

“I saw a hole in the market for mushrooms in the northeast, specifically in exotics. It was really interesting to me, the systems involved and the way you grow mushrooms,” begins RI Mushroom Co. CEO Michael Hallock. The Berklee music grad made a career leap from working at Columbia Records to getting his hands dirty learning the ins and outs of agriculture at Chase Farm in Middletown, then Farming Turtles in Exeter, and finally diving into mushroom cultivation in a closet at Middletown’s Sweet Berry Farm. “We’ve gone from 40 pounds a week to now we sell about 500,000 pounds of exotic mushrooms every week.”

Part of the legwork of getting a mushroom farm off the ground is helping consumers get over their fear of cooking with fungus. “I think people have the misconception that a mushroom’s a mushroom’s a mushroom, which isn’t true,” says Hallock. “When we first started selling at the farmers markets, I would give away Maitake to people who didn’t know what it was. They would all be repeat customers. It’s just that good.”

Hallock soon brought on a chef to develop recipes – and even worked for six months at the now-closed Loie Fuller in Providence to learn the trade – along with curating the Chef’s Mix. “I was looking for a way to connect and resonate with chefs,” says Hallock. “I could bring it in the backdoor of all of these restaurants and get to know the chefs and show them something they hadn’t seen. That ended up turning into our largest-selling retail item.”

A newer operation to the niche market, High Tide Mushroom Farm in Coventry has a mission of “growing sustainable, nutrient-dense, secure food networks,” explains founder Sam Morgan, “to showcase how practical mushroom

GROW YOUR OWN

Watch for High Tide Mushroom Farm products at Belmont Market in Wakefield, The Farm RI in Chepachet, the Pawtucket Farmers Market Wednesdays, and Tiverton Farmers Market Sundays. Cultivate mushrooms at home with High Tide’s mycology supplies sold online: “From beginner to advanced, we have products for the hobbyist wherever they are on their mycological journey!” says Morgan. HighTideMushroomFarm.com

cultivation can be as a regenerative food source, and also to display the practical uses of mycelium, which essentially are the ‘mushroom roots’ for our local land and water ways.”

Through the processes of mycoremediation and mycofiltration, not only are many mushrooms superfoods, but can also help fight pollution and purify water. “They’re incredibly versatile organisms that have the ability to absorb and break down a wide range of toxins, including petroleum products, heavy metals, plastics, and pesticides,” says Morgan. “The solution to a lot of our ecological issues has been hiding right under our feet the entire time!”

Not to mention, they taste delicious sauteed in butter and added to pizza, pasta, and any number of dishes. “If you look at the different varietals, like Maitake versus Lion’s Mane, it’s an entirely different flavor profile,” says Hallock. “Whereas a Maitake might have a really rich umami or meatier texture, Lion’s Mane mimics a lighter flavor like a seafood; it even has a different mouthfeel.”

“Mushrooms can be roasted, grilled, and fried,” shares Morgan. “The type you choose may depend on the dish you’re making. For example, Oyster mushrooms tend to have a delicate umami taste, and Chestnut mushrooms have a nutty and rich flavor. The possibilities are endless.”

Drawing a culinary blank? Visit RI Mushroom Co.’s website for a searchable database of recipes featuring mushrooms in every style of cuisine, from Portabella burgers to Lion’s Mane lobster rolls. Shop their offerings, including the Chef’s Mix, at grocery stores across the state. RIMushrooms.com/recipes

CHEF-INSPIRED RECIPES

RI Mushroom Co.’s Maitake Mushroom Buffalo “Wings”

Mushrooms on the Menu

Here’s just a handful of many statewide restaurants sourcing mushrooms from nearby farms:

Mushroom Bourgeoning over Polenta

Amaryllis, Pro v idence

Petite Filet Mignon

Celestial Cafe, Exeter

Hand-Rolled Cavatelli

Hunky Dory, Warren

Butternut Squash & Mushroom Tacos

La Vecina Taqueria, Newport

Mapo Mushroom

New Wave Kitchen, Wakefield

Mushroom Grilled Cheese Nicks on Broadway, Pro v idence

Celebrate with us and enjoy activities for all ages, including live music and entertainment, local craft and art vendors, family activities, and food for all tastebuds and preferences!

SPONSORS

FARM FRESH RI (10 Sims Ave, Providence) | FREE TO ATTEND

From Their Table to Yours

BY ANDREA E. MCHUGH

What’s the best job in the world?

Ask Rhode Island’s Lisa Raiola, whose business for nearly a decade has been to turn dreamers into doers, to turn “one day” ideas into today’s reality. It’s a good gig for the founder and president of Hope & Main, the nonprofit culinary incubator and shared-use commercial kitchen in Warren that’s launched nearly 450 food businesses. But this gourmet fairy godmother doesn’t wave a magic wand. She has more of a “teach a man to catch a fish” approach, setting foodmakers up for business sustainability and sensible scaling –two of the most challenging rungs on the ladder of success. And finally, after years of envisioning it, she cut the ribbon on the Downtown Makers Marketplace in Providence, where locally sourced products from more than 100 makers, including Hope & Main members, line the shelves, fill the refrigerators, stock the freezer, and are served fresh

made for breakfast and lunch. It’s a dash of “happily ever after” for any small food maker’s fairy tale.

“When you put Hope & Main in, you’re putting over 100 small businesses into one 5,000-squarefoot space, because literally there is not one thing in there that is not locally made,” says Raiola, adding that the market wouldn’t have been possible without the financial support from Papitto Opportunity Connection along with Paolino Properties. “They actually came to us when there was a long-time vacancy in the building due to COVID and said ‘We really want to support something vibrant here, something that has an amplification effect for small business.’” Though the market is new, the concept is far from it. Raiola’s been asked about launching a retail location since Hope & Main opened in the East Bay in 2014, but the challenges were many, starting with the product itself.

How shared-use commercial kitchen spaces, resources, and tools are helping Rhode Island food entrepreneurs get their goods to consumers

Shoppers browse products from Hope & Main’s many food makers

“You really need to have some critical mass to open a store,” Raiola explains. Getting a food product to evolve from a maker’s grandma’s oil-stained recipe index card into an actual, packageable product is the focus at Hope & Main, but Raiola’s kept her eye on growing local food sections at community grocers, from Dave’s Fresh Marketplace – Rhode Island’s largest independent grocery store chain with 10 locations – to smaller markets and shops, as data points measuring consumer demand. “Local food is really what brings a lot of people into those stores,” explains Raiola. “It is a different reason than, say, why they might go to Stop & Shop.”

Foss Farm’s sauce can be found at 30+ retailers

Hope & Main alum, The Perfect Empanada

Photo (top) courtesy of The Perfect Empanada, (bottom) courtesy of Foss Farms

In basic terms, most small food makers start with an idea, then dive into the research and development (R&D) phase, where they learn more about production, packaging, labeling, and distribution. Some makers craft their product from start to finish, while others employ Hope & Main for co-packing, or smallbatch manufacturing. For example, Matt and Tami Mullins of Newport Sea Salt Co. harvest sea water off Newport’s Brenton Point, bring it to Hope & Main, and use the facility’s commercial kitchen to evaporate the water. Then,

they take the flaky, briny sea salt, package it, and deliver it to retailers, prepare it for farmers markets, and fulfill online orders.

Conversely, in the case of Foss Farms in Saunderstown, for example, Doug Foss started with a recipe for his marinara sauce, approached Hope & Main to co-pack the product, and now it’s made, packaged, and delivered by Hope & Main before being sold at a handful of farmers markets and nearly three dozen retailers. “It’s another service that is almost impossible to get for a small food

company… We’re that middle R&D step. They can grow without ever having to build a factory themselves. If you are Pace Salsa or Tostitos or Newman’s Own, you have a big factory and are running thousands of cases of salsa at a time. Doug Foss can’t say, ‘Can you run just a couple of cases of my sauces?’ It’s not gonna happen,” explains Raiola. “I call it the ‘missing middle’ in food, because it’s really hard to scale from a small food company to a big food company without the middle.”

When Katie Potter launched Newport

But demand is only one hurdle. Let’s back up.

Newport Sea Salt Co. launched its “reef-to-table” brand through Hope & Main

Photo by Tami Mullins courtesy of Newport Sea Salt Co.

Chowder Company, her product was actually chowder-less. It was a package containing all of the dry spices and bullion used to make her mom’s famous chowder that was a longtime staple at Muriel’s Restaurant in Newport, which closed many years ago but left a loyal following. East Bay markets, including Clement’s in Portsmouth, Foodlove in Middletown, Only in Rhode Island, and the Newport Mansion stores were just some to stock the product, and she found success

customizing labels for corporate partnerships and social events, including wedding favors. When the pandemic hit, those bulk orders came to a grinding halt.

“It became pretty clear that if I wanted to continue my business, people were going to have to be able to taste our seafood chowder,” says Potter. “I started making small batches with the help of Hope & Main and their co-packing program. We started with 10 gallons at a time, and eventually scaled to

90-gallon runs.” Today, the proprietress serves the chowder at her two food trucks and via food cart for small events, and she’ll be opening her first pop-up brick and mortar on Newport’s busy Thames Street this summer. The location became a reality when Potter won a $10,000 prize at the Sam Adams’ Brewing the American Dream program through Hope & Main. The initiative supports food and beverage entrepreneurs across the US with access to capital, networks, and business coaching.

Bootblack Brand, specializing in cocktail and soda syrups, launched through Hope & Main Hope & Main helped Newport Chowder Company go from 10- to 90-gallon runs

Photo courtesy of Newport Chowder Company

Photo by Andrew Michael Media, courtesy of Bootblack Brand

Photo by Kelsea Godek Photography, courtesy of Newport Chowder Compny

Cottage Food Law

BY SHAY COSTA

The term cottage industry may bring to mind people weaving from their homes in days of yore, but according to the Rhode Island Department of Health (RIDOH), cottage food manufacturing refers to producing food in a residential kitchen that will be sold directly to the consumer.

In November 2022, Rhode Island became the last state in the US to pass a Cottage Foods law, allowing residents the opportunity to sell shelf-stable baked goods prepared from their own home kitchens. This change is the result of bill H 7123, which passed into law five months earlier. Prior to the bill passing, farmers were the only Rhode Islanders who were able to sell homemade food items; otherwise, a commercial space would be required to make and sell baked goods.

While the Cottage Food law is a boost to biz-minded homecooks, it still has a number of requirements. Bakers must register through RIDOH, which comes with a $65 fee, complete food handler training, and adhere to an annual sales cap of $50,000. Cottage Food manufactures are only allowed to make and sell baked goods that do not require refrigeration or time/ temperature control for safety, such as yeast breads, cookies, muffins, and cakes that do not require refrigeration or temperature-controlled environment. Learn more at HealthRI.gov and IJ.org

INCUBATOR ALL STARS

15 BUSINESSES THAT GOT THEIR START THROUGH HOPE & MAIN

Anchor To ee

The Backyard Food Company

The Black Leaf Tea and Culture Shop

Blondie’s Bakery

Bootblack Brand

Bottega Bocconi

Dune Brothers

Feast & Fettle

Flat Waves Food Shack

Hunky Dory

JA Patty

Just Like Nana’s

The Perfect Empanada

PVDonuts

401 Garlic Sauce

Town Made in Wakefield also provides a launching pad for food-preneurs to produce, market, and sell their products. Rachael LaPorte, director of food operations at Town Made, says the facility has two class 4 commercial kitchens where food producers can make “all level and manner of food.”

Ten-burner stoves, refrigerators, freezers, grills, deep fryers, a 40-quart mixer and specialty equipment, including a proof box for baking, give members the scope of tools they need to succeed, eliminating the prohibitive infrastructure costs a maker would otherwise need to source with via exorbitant loans or investors. “Instead of a maker having to shell out a quarter of a million dollars

opening up a brick and mortar,” she explains, Town Made lets them “really kick the tires of their business here” and work out the kinks. “Research and development, food costs, packaging, labeling – all of those things.”

Those wraparound services paired with culinary business consulting and support, she says, tee businesses up for growth and sustainable success. Though Rhode Island passed a new cottage food law (see sidebar) last November, which allows residents to legally sell homemade baked goods when they register through the Department of Health, they must be in compliance with several regulations and it can be more complex than meets the eye. “The new cottage food laws are very limiting,”

Town Made in Wakfield boasts two class 4 commercial kitchens

Photo by Lineage Corporation, courtesy of Town Made

explains LaPorte. “Here at Town Made, we make sure we are up to code as far as the building and facility is concerned.” Moreover, the floor-toceiling windows on Main Street and retail space for pop-up shops gives makers an opportunity to familiarize themselves with point-of-purchase sales systems, packaging, logistics, and, of course, perfecting their sales pitch.

“At the farmers market, there really are a lot of components. How are you going to set up your tent? How are you going to load in? How are

you going to load out? Are you going to need a hand-washing station? Will you be providing samples? The retail space is a fantastic training ground before going out to larger markets,” adds LaPorte.

Food incubators, cooperative kitchens, and the business of locally made and sold food products are the lifeblood of Rhode Island’s food economy. According to Raiola, Rhode Island has the highest direct consumer ratio of food sales in the country – meaning per capita, how many people can buy their food directly from a

farmer or a maker. The state boasts the highest per capita farmers markets in the country, a statistic Raiola credits to Farm Fresh Rhode Island.

“It is also about economic mobility for those makers. Sixty percent of our companies are women-owned, and 40 percent are owned by people of color. [It’s] that diversity, that ability to create affordable ownership of a business. When you can own something, you can grow something. You can create generational wealth for your family,” explains Raiola.

“It is also about economic mobility for those makers. Sixty percent of our companies are women-owned, and 40 percent are owned by people of color. [It’s] that diversity, that ability to create affordable ownership of a business. When you can own something, you can grow something. You can create generational wealth for your family.”

LISA

RAIOLA, HOPE & MAIN

Blondie’s Bakery’s Kristen Andrews

The year-round Providence Farmers Market held inside Farm Fresh RI’s Market Hall

Photo (top) courtesy of Blondie’s Bakery, (bottom) by Kendall Pavan Photography, courtesy of Farm Fresh RI

GROWING THE LOCAL FOOD SYSTEM SINCE 2004

Our 60,000 sq. ft. facility serves as headquarters for our programs, packhouse, and distribution operations — and our Farm Fresh Providence Farmers Market is open here every Saturday 9am-1pm, year-round!

UNIQUE SHOPPING | ON-SITE MANUFACTURING | PRODUCTION VIEWING WINDOWS | AND MORE!

Toffee & Confections anchortoffee.com

Coffee Shop & Spirits with a full bar until 11pm on Weekends newharvestcoffee.com

Wide assortment of houseplants, locally grown fowers, gardening supplies and gifts. robinhollowfarm.com

Chicano Street Food, Rooted in Hospitality tallulahstaqueria.com

Year-Round Ice Cream, Farm-Fresh Dairy Products & Baked Goods thewrightscoopri.com

Minnie Luong, who came to the US as a refugee from Vietnam as a child, saw a void in the market for the fermented kimchi she grew up enjoying with her family. When she and her husband, Tim Greenwald, became more serious about producing an accessible kimchi product in 2015, they moved from Los Angeles to Rhode Island, took a family recipe and turned it into a full-fledged business with the support of Hope & Main. Kimchi is Chi Kitchen’s flagship product, but they expanded their line to include kimchi pickles and sesame slaw as well. In addition to the dozens of markets and stores like Whole Foods and the Downtown Makers Marketplace that stock the products, the company wholesales

to colleges and universities and James Beard award-winning restaurants, among other accounts. Along the way, Luong has developed a passion for helping other makers navigate the gauntlet of food business success.

When one walks through the doors of Basil & Bunny in Bristol, they likely see a thriving plant-based, Instagram-worthy restaurant in a cool, repurposed mill building. What they don’t see is the years of labor Lyslie Smith and Mathiew Medeiros put into conceptualizing and development. “[Hope & Main] gave us never-ending support as well as a great community of like-minded people,” says Smith. “It was great to be around so many people working to turn a dream into a reality. It really is a special place.

Chi Kitchen’s Minnie Luong, Tim Greenwald, and family

Photos by Marianne Lee, courtesy of Chi Kitchen

The amount of Rhode Island staples, from packaged foods to some of your favorites restaurants, are here because of Hope & Main and Lisa Raiola. I am forever grateful for the opportunity to learn, work and grow through them.”

Heather Zoller had already created a successful business selling Z Pita Chipz from a food truck when she decided to focus on making the chips full time, only she needed a commercial space to do so. “This is when the enthusiastic team at Hope & Main came to the rescue,” she says. Onboarding classes,

seminars, and panel discussions with seasoned professionals in the food industry helped her fine tune her business plan, and opportunities like the organization’s annual business to business trade show, The Rhode Island Tabletop Show, connected Zoller with an exponentially wider audience. “Hope & Main’s exclusive Tabletop Show is the only event of its kind in Rhode Island, bringing local entrepreneurs and industry buyers together in order to build business relationships. These connections, along with the unyielding

support from Lisa and her team, have undoubtedly helped in setting me up for success.”

The trade show also brought together Little Maven Lemonade, founded by Brazilian-born Mariana Silva-Buck, with buyers from Boston’s Children’s Hospital. “They loved her lemonade,” says Raiola. “Before them, [Silva-Buck] only sold on a shelf in a store, but [the hospital] liked it so much, they made a deal to put her lemonade on every tray going into every patient’s room. So you think about how that deal helped her to scale immediately.

“It was great to be around so many people working to turn a dream into a reality. It really is a special place. The amount of Rhode Island staples, from packaged foods to some of your favorites restaurants, are here because of Hope & Main and Lisa Raiola. I am forever grateful for the opportunity to learn, work and grow through them.”

LYSLIE SMITH

AND MATHIEW MEDEIROS, BASIL & BUNNY

Heather Zoller, creator of Z Pita Chipz

Basil & Bunny restaurant in Bristol started in a two-person trailer

Photo (top) by Kendall Pavan Photography, courtesy of Z Pia Chipz, (bottom) by Lyslie Smith, courtesy of Basil & Bunny

KEANE’S WOOD-FIRED CATERING

GET COOKIN’

SHARED-USE KITCHENS AND RESOURCES

Bath Food Co.: Restaurant co-op with 20+ partner restaurants. Providence, BathFoodCo.com

Hope & Main: RI’s premier culinary incubator and among the top 10 in the US, launching nearly 300 businesses since 2014. Warren, MakeFoodYourBusiness.org

Millrace Kitchen: Incubator program with space, staff, and equipment for rent. Woonsocket, MillRaceKitchen.org

Sankofa Initiative: Community kitchen and food market. Providence, WestElmwood.org

SCLT Food Hub: Commercial kitchen available for use by neighbors and farmers. Providence, SouthSideCLT.org

Town Made: Shared-use kitchen, marketing consults, and more. Wakefield, TownMade.com

She was co-packing with us and went right into a big co-packer…and at no point did she build a lemonade factory. She worked within our system, which gave her all of that affordable access in that process to launch and scale and grow to the point that she is now.”

On average, 15,000 new food products enter the market each year in this country, making the food industry exceptionally competitive. Getting to a major market store shelf – and staying there – isn’t easy. “Big Food” – large food companies that dominate the playing

field – often pay “slotting fees” (sometimes called “pay-to-stay”) for premium positioning in the supermarket, costs that are passed on to the consumer,” explains Raiola. “The price of those fees are built into the cost of the product to the consumer, and the American consumer pays a lot to be marketed to by those big food companies – and you don’t see any of our food companies taking ads during the Super Bowl.”

But the consumer holds the power to make buying decisions, and outlets like Hope & Main make it easier than ever to choose local.

Plant-based offerings at Basil & Bunny

Hope & Main alum Little Maven Lemonade

Photo (L) by Lyslie Smith, courtesy of Basil & Bunny, (R) courtesy of Little Maven Lemonade

Discover the flavors of Rhode Island! From fresh seafood shacks to farm-totable eateries, little Rhody o ers a diverse culinary landscape that caters to all tastes. Indulge in delicious seafood, global cuisines, and locally-inspired dishes, and experience the culinary richness of the Ocean State with a dining experience that will leave you craving for more.

Marcelino’s Boutique Bar

1 W Exchange St, Providence | 401-666-0088

marcelinosboutiquebar.com |

Craft cocktail bar serving Mid-Terranean Fusion Mezze and World-Class Craft Cocktails | #ItsMarcelinos

All Favorites Cafe

1678 Broad St, Cranston | 401-941-3550 allfavoritescafe.com |

A Breakfast/Lunch restaurant serving a mash up of Southern and French inspired flavors. Everything from French Toast to Cubanos.

Chelo’s Hometown Bar & Grille 8 locations across RI! chelos.com |

A Rhode Island staple since 1955! Fresh, homemade deliciousness in every bite.

Stack House

99 Fortin Road, Unit 108, Kingston 401-854-7470 | Stackhouseus.com |

New England’s Premier Brunch, Fried Chicken and Southern Cuisine Restaurant with a menu boastings over 20 chicken flavors.

BLU On The Water

20 Water St. East Greenwich | 401-885-3700 bluonthewater.com |

Fresh seafood daily and live outdoor entertainment make BLU RI’s premier waterfront destination.

Chelo’s Waterfront

1 Masthead Dr. Warwick | 401-884-3000 cheloswaterfrontri.com |

Fresh food, family friendly, and unparalleled views of Greenwich Bay.

Tallulah’s Taqueria

Three Locations:

West End • Fox Point • Jamestown tallulahstaqueria.com |

Order by App, Online, or In-Store. Chicano Street Food...Rooted in Hospitality.

CAV Restaurant

14 Imperial Place, Providence | 401 751-9164 CavRestaurant.com |

Bistro style Brunch and Lunch. Fine Dining Dinner.

The Coast Guard House Restaurant

40 Ocean Rd, Narragansett | 401-789-0700

thecoastguardhouse.com |

Waterfront dining - local raw bar, lobster, pasta, steak & seafood. Award-winning wine list. Dining rooms, bars, patio & deck.

Twin Willows 865 Boston Neck Road, Narragansett 401-789-8153 | TwinWillowsRI.com |

Water-view dining with fresh lobsters & steamers served daily in this casual sports bar/restaurant.

DRINKING

Nothing says summer like floral-forward cocktails

Photo courtesy of Fern Farm

Gifts of the Sea

By Rose Kenyon

Anyone who’s spent evenings dining along downtown Providence’s vibrant stretch of eateries is already familiar with Oberlin, the cozy mainstay known for its fresh seafood, pasta, and carefully curated drink menu. Soon, it will be joined by sister restaurant Gift Horse, a full-service raw bar, opening just a block away at 272 Westminster Street, where Oberlin will also move next door.

Led by award-winning chef and owner Ben Sukle, Oberlin will be able to stretch its legs in the larger space, and Gift Horse will showcase fresh catches from New England waters prepared with Sukle’s innovative, offbeat style. Both locations will also expand their beverage programs, with longtime general manager and now partner Bethany Caliaro at the helm.

Since culinary school, Caliaro knew she loved working in the front of the house. For her, it brought new challenges, excitement, and the

welcomed opportunity to connect with guests. After years of working in kitchens as a server, Caliaro opened a restaurant with a friend where she cut her teeth running the beverage program.

“It was definitely a learning curve for me,” she says, “but I loved that pathway and realized there’s no shortage of things to learn when it comes to beverages, wine especially.”

With this experience under her belt, Caliaro came to work at Oberlin as general manager and to run their beverage program, which she’s been doing for almost five years. Ahead of Gift Horse opening, Caliaro added bar manager Rachel Stone to the team, who will oversee both bar programs.

Caliaro and Stone are excited to collaborate on the new drink menus, both of which will feature wine, beer, sakè, and cider, as well as a selection of low- and no-ABV (alcohol by volume) beverages – a crucial facet of Caliaro’s vision. As she puts it, “it’s important to give

people who aren’t drinking, or are trying to drink consciously, options to still feel special, to still have fun, and to still be able to connect with the people they are dining out with.”

Caliaro is also intentional about another piece of the drink menu – selecting producers. If you chat with the team about your drinks while there, you’ll notice many beverages have a unique story stemming from those origins. Caliaro prioritizes choosing small producers who are sustainability minded, ideally offering organic or biodynamic beverages. She also seeks out women-owned companies making wine in a natural style.

While both restaurants aim to pull beverages from a more expansive list, they’ll each go in their own unique direction. Gift Horse’s beverages will focus on complementing the restaurant’s heavy Rhode Island oyster and seafood focus. At Oberlin, the core drinks customers have come to know and love will remain, but with added options, too.

Popular downtown eatery enters a new horse in the race with a raw bar concept and beverage program to match

A smattering of Gift Horse bites paired with an elegant drink

Partner and beverage director Bethany Caliaro (L) and owner Ben Sukle (R)

P hotos by Catherine Dzilenski, courtesy of Gift Horse

Stone looks forward to embracing the New England food culture and selecting libations that pair well with oceanfare. “The drink menu will feature some local, seasonal ingredients, some low-ABV options, some classics, and some more whimsical creations,” says Stone. “There will be something for everyone on the drink list.” Customers can expect creative takes on spritzes and martinis inspired by the Italian coast.

Since coming on board, Stone has synthesized Oberlin’s menu in her own unique way. Likewise, Stone says Caliaro “has great taste and is a wealth of knowledge.” Together, this team is bound to bring a fresh beverage scene that complements downtown’s most anticipated new seafood concept.

Gift Horse - Opening late spring

272 Westminster Street

383-3813 • GiftHorsePVD.com

Flower Power

The microgreens grower behind Fern Farm dishes on spring bites and bevvies starring florals

By Jen Tanner

May in New England is the enchanting time of year when flowers, root vegetables, and herbs make their inaugural appearance. Backyard gardens and spring farmers markets are blooming with color and flavors to bring back to our kitchens and infuse in cocktails and hors d’oeuvres. One of the dreamiest ingredients to add to spring dishes is edible flowers. Violas, pansies, violets, and dandelions are usually the first to burst onto the scene. Add as a garnish for aesthetic and textural appeal or turn into a syrup for an ethereal cocktail mixin. Pair these light bites starring spring root vegetables, microgreens, and fresh blooms with floral-forward cocktails using homemade violet syrup.

VIOLET SYRUP

INGREDIENTS

• 1 cup packed edible purple violet flowers

• 1 cup boiling water

• 1 cup white granulated sugar

• ¼ tsp lemon juice (optional)

STEPS

1. Remove the stems from the violet flowers and gently rinse the flower heads or petals in a bowl of water to remove any soil particles. Scoop the violets out of the water and set them on a towel to drain.

2. Add the violet flowers to a heat-safe bowl and cover with boiling water. Cover the bowl and let the violets steep until their blue color is visible in the water, for at least 1 hour or overnight for the best results.

3. Strain the violet infusion into a medium saucepan, pressing the flowers with the back of a spoon to extract all the liquid.

4. Add the sugar and gently heat the mixture over medium-low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove the saucepan from the heat once the sugar is dissolved.

5. To change the color of the syrup from cool blue to purple, stir lemon juice one drop at a time into the syrup until your desired color is reached.

6. Pour the violet syrup into a sterilized glass bottle. Let it cool completely, store in the refrigerator, and use in cocktail and dessert recipes.

Find pesticide-free edible flowers from Fern Farm’s summer stand, opening in June (follow @fernfarm55 for updates), or at the woman-owned, chemical-free Lucayda Farm, with a plant sale May 26-29. For best results, use fresh edible flowers immediately after purchasing or harvesting. To prolong shelf life, wash and air dry as you use them, and store in an airtight container with a damp paper towel. Always consult with your farmer about which blooms are edible.

Fern Farm | Warwick, FernFarm.net

Lucayda Farm | Cranston, LucaydaFarm.com

Photos courtesy of Fern Farm

ROSE RADISHES

Elevate your garnish game by crafting thinly sliced radishes into a bloom. Let the slices soak in water for five minutes. Then lay them flat, slightly overlapped, and roll into a rose shape. Secure with a toothpick.

Rosé Blossom Punch

INGREDIENTS

• 1 bottle of 2021 Anchor & Hope Rosé

• ½ cup ISCO Structural Vodka

• 1 bottle grapefruit sparkling water

• 1 Tbsp violet syrup

• Edible flowers for garnish

STEPS

1. Add all ingredients to a punch bowl. Reserve some of the grapefruit sparkling water to add to drinks once served.

2. Stir and chill in the refrigerator for one hour prior to serving.

Beet Hummus Tea Sandwiches

INGREDIENTS

• 2 small, cooked beets, chopped

• 1 (15 oz.) can chickpeas, drained with liquid reserved

• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

• 2 tbsp tahini

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• ¾ tsp salt

• ¼ tsp cumin

• Bread of choice

• Radishes, microgreens, and herbs to garnish

STEPS

1. Combine beets, chickpeas, lemon juice, tahini, garlic, salt, and cumin in the bowl of a food processor; pulse until pureed.

2. Pour reserved chickpea liquid slowly, with the processor running, until hummus is smooth and desired consistency is achieved.

3. To make sandwiches, use a biscuit cutter to cut out the bread circles.

4. Spread a generous portion of beet hummus onto the bottom slice of bread. Place another slice on the top.

5. Garnish with rose radishes, microgreens, and herbs.

The Forager’s Fancy

INGREDIENTS

• 2 oz. RI Spirits Rhodium Forager’s Gin

• ¾ oz. violet syrup

• ¾ oz. lime juice

STEPS

1. Add gin, syrup, and lime juice, to a shaker with ice

2. Shake and strain

3. Garnish with violas and pea microgreens

Limoncello Violet Cheesecake

INGREDIENTS

CRUST:

• 2 cups graham cracker crumbs

• ⅓ cup butter, melted

CHEESECAKE:

• 1 package (8 oz.) cream cheese, softened

• 1 container (8 oz.) frozen whipped topping (thawed)

• ½ cup sour cream

• ½ tsp vanilla

• ¼ cup RI Spirits Rhodium Limoncello

• ½ tsp violet syrup

• Edible flowers and mint for garnish

STEPS

1. Heat oven to 350°F. Spray a 9-inch glass pie plate with cooking spray. Stir together the crust ingredients. Press firmly and evenly on the bottom of the pie plate.

2. Bake for 9 minutes. Cool 20 minutes.

3. In a medium bowl, beat cheesecake ingredients with an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth; spoon over crust. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes before serving.

4. Garnish with edible flowers and mint.

TIP: To make individual mini cheesecakes, press a biscuit cutter into your refrigerated cheesecake to form small circles.

It’s Boba Time

Hop on the growing bubble tea trend with specialty cafes in Providence and Cranston

By Ken Abrams

If you’ve been living in a bubble, maybe you haven’t noticed the boba tea shops popping up everywhere these days, from Thayer Street to Cranston. More commonly known as bubble tea, the delicious multi-textured drink with sweet and chewy tapioca pearls got its start in Taiwan in the 1980s, became a favorite at Taiwanese restaurants on the west coast in the late 1990s, and is now widespread.

Boba Lova, a cheery new Cranston storefront with a youthful vibe, opened its doors in late 2022. Co-owner Soeuth Ky notes, “we saw the popularity of boba tea had risen out of obscurity and was no longer niche. We thought about creating a shop that offers snacks to go along with our drinks.”

The store is “the antithesis of a typical boba shop,” explains Ky, “large, quaint, welcoming and encouraging for people to hang out.”

With typical bubble tea options ranging from milk and fruit tea, hot or cold, and a variety of add-ins like jelly stars, flavored syrups, and sweetness levels to choose from, ordering for the first time can be a bit intimidating. Ky offers a few recommendations. “The most popular drink we sell is our taro ube milk tea,” says Ky, which features milk from taro, a sweet root vegetable, and a swirl of purple ube that provides its iconic look. “Other top sellers

A Boba Lova bubble tea with a swirl of ube

P hoto courtesy of Boba Lova RI

PRO-TIP: Hold the cup with one hand and pierce the plastic cover with your oversized boba straw in one fell swoop. Always use the store-provided straw, as the boba will not pass through the traditional kind. Many stores use biodegradable bamboo-based straws.

BOBA LOVA

1375 Park Avenue, Cranston

BUBBLE TEA HOUSE

849 Westminster Street, Pro v idence

are our strawberry matcha latte, creme brulee, brown sugar milk tea, and passion fruit tea.”

Bubble Tea House in downtown Providence opened 10 years ago, making it the oldest cafe of its type in the state. Owner Simon Khiev, who trained in Taiwan, frequently updates the menu. “Every day, we strive to innovate and stick close to the bubble tea tradition. Over the course of the last few years, we’ve seen a tremendous amount of new businesses opening and the growth of bubble

tea culture here in Rhode Island,” says Khiev.

Many shops also offer mochi donuts, a delicious hybrid pastry, typically shaped into eight small balls connected in a circular donut shape. Made with glutinous rice flour or tapioca flour, the donuts are crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside.

“Mochi donuts were made popular by the chain Mr. Donuts in Japan,” explains Ky. “We make ours fresh daily, individually

hand-dipped. We believe they are best enjoyed same day so we only make enough to sell out. Our donut flavors rotate weekly.”

Once you’ve tried bubble tea, don’t be surprised if you find yourself returning. “I think what repeat customers love most about our boba tea is the ability to pair their drinks with a donut. The two items are complementary and with donut flavors rotating, there’s always fresh options for customers,” adds Ky.

A cold bubble tea and mochi donut

DRINKING

e Must List

For

Through September: Food Truck Fridays at Roger Williams Park bring many of the state’s best trucks every week. Enjoy live music, ride the carousel, and play in Hasbro’s Boundless Playground at this family-friendly event. Pro v idence, RIFoodTrucks.com

May 5: Swing by beloved family-run restaurant Beef Barn for a hearty lunch and then head outside to their back fields to peruse the Spring Artisan Festival featuring goods from over 50 local makers. North Smithfield, Facebook: Beef Barn Restaurant

May 6: Don’t miss the most exciting two minutes in sports at the fifth annual Derby Day along with a cocktail party and dinner featuring southern-inspired specialties prepared by Russell Morin Catering. Bristol, LindenPlace.org

May 9: Indulge in bites from local restaurants, breweries, and more at Taste of North Kingstown , with raffle proceeds benefiting the NK Food Pantry, in the Hangar at Flightlevel Aviation. NorthKingstown.com

May 12: Sample whites, reds, and fruit wines at the Spring Lantern Paint & Sip at Leyden Farm Vineyard & Winery while decorating floral decor with Painted by the Shore. West Greenwich, PaintedByTheShore.com

May 13: Sip fine teas over light bites with the special lady in your life at the Mother’s Day Garden Tea at Mapleville Farm. Soup, salad, sandwiches, and pastries will be served in their lush perennial garden. Mapleville, BensBakery.com

May 20-21: Savor the bounty of local aquaculture in the Ocean State at the Bowen’s Wharf Newport Oyster and Chowder Festival , a free event showcasing the state’s 40+ oyster farms along with exhibitors and live music. Newport, BowensWharf.com

Photo by Melissa Jones, courtesy of Finback Brewery

May 20: Returning for its second year, Finback Brewery’s Whale Watching Beer Festival brings tastes of some of the best in the craft brewery world, to enjoy with local food truck eats along the scenic Blackstone River. Pawtucket, Eventbrite: Finback Brewery Whale Watching 2023

Beginning May 3: Learn about the City by the Sea’s culinary scene with Newport Foodies Stroll , an opportunity to sample delicious entrees from five popular locally owned restaurants along Lower Thames Street. NewportFoodiesStroll.com

Meet Amy Larson

Equal parts design, activism, and cooking are a recipe for success for this apparel and kitchen goods creator

By Elyse Major

The goods you create through your Overseasoned brand are available nationwide, and three collections even give back a portion of proceeds to organizations including Planned Parenthood. How did it all begin?

I started my business in 2016 publishing recipes in monthly zines, highlighting the key, seasonal ingredients to cook from that month. Then in January of 2017 in the wake of the Women’s March, I penned my first slogan, “Smash the Garlic and the Patriarchy,” and began printing it on tea towels, tote bags, and aprons. Customers and stores started requesting it on other products and my merchandising business started growing. I began coming up with other slogans that intersect food and feminism like “Cabernet and Equal Pay” and “Shuck the Patriarchy.”

You recently relocated to Rhode Island from Cambridge. What brought you here?

I loved living in Cambridge but am originally from Portsmouth and after almost 10 years of city living, my husband and I wanted to move to RI to get more living space and access to the beautiful coast.

What are your bestsellers and what makes those items resonate with customers?

The Smash the Garlic and the Patriarchy design was my first creation and it continues to be a bestseller; I came out with the Shuck the Patriarchy collection in 2022 and that is also a bestseller. Lately people are really loving the Hot Girls Eat Pasta and Hot Girls Eat Bread lines as well. I think all of these designs respond to a societal frustration in my customers and that’s why they resonate so well, like the people who are loving the Hot Girls Eat Bread line are sick of diet culture and a male-dominated society telling women how they should look, dress, and eat. And then the Shuck the Patriarchy collection speaks to a special demographic of people (many of whom are in New England) who love oysters and hate the patriarchy.

Where do you like to eat and shop around the state?

Little Sister and Madrid European Bakery in PVD; Hunky Dory, Warren; Beehive Cafe, Bristol; Jayd Bun, South Kingstown; Our Table, Jamestown; Nitro Bar; and many more!

Any upcoming market events?

May and June are especially busy filled with upcoming events in Providence, Bristol, and Boston. Visit my Upcoming Events page at Overseasoned.com for dates, times, and locations.

Photo by Rita Tinega, courtesy of Amy Larson

STOCKING: Rue De Seine, Louvienne, Lovers Society, Dany Tabet, SAINT, Rime Arodaky, Eva Lendel, Alyssa Kristin, Alyne by Rita Vinieris

Gown pictured: Louvienne ‘Malea’

Photographer: Jessica Ruscoe

With summer so close you can almost taste it, it’s time to take things outside. Whether you’re hosting a fancy porch party, dining under the stars, or prepping a luxury picnic, your guests will be swooning over a special night to remember.

VISUAL FEAST

Since 1998 Stacy Carlson has been helping Rhode Islanders live stylish lives via her interior design business and home goods shop, Lou Lou’s Decor. Whether you head to Bellevue Avenue in Newport or Main Road in Tiverton, you’ll find a wide selection of table linens, place settings, glassware, and decor that will bring coastal grandmother charm to your table.

CENTER OF ATTENTION

Sharon Thorpe, the floral designer and artist behind Rose of Sharon in Cranston, embraced the assignment of navy and orange, creating centerpieces overflowing with bushy blue hydrangeas and roses with mandarin oranges cleverly mixed in. Use a large floral arrangement to be your showstopper or place candle holders between smaller bouquets to experiment with height and textures.

Let’s Eat Out

Simple tips and fabulous finds for planning a uniquely Rhode Island gathering

By Kayla Aucoin

Decide on a color scheme early – it will help guide many decisions!

Mandarin oranges in the centerpiece add fresh appeal

Photography and styling by Kayla Aucoin, courtesy of AUCOIN

SUMMER SHOPPING

Lighthouse Coffee Roaster & Cafe, South County Bread Company, and AUCOIN (paper goods and table top) will be at the Tilted Barn Farmers Market Wednesdays from 4-7pm.

PRETTY PROVISIONS

Keep things simple, elegant, and potentially portable by starting with cheese and bread. Sourdough baguettes from Wakefield’s South County Bread Company are delicious served with a soft cheese like Highlawn Q ueen from Wedge in Warren. For a drink that’s sure to dazzle, head to Lighthouse Coffee Roasters & Cafe in North Kingstown for their Butterfly Lemonade, mixed with their Butterfly Pea Flower Tea to create a dreamy ombre effect. For the main course, make things effortless while supporting local by ordering take out from your favorite neighborhood restaurant, and cover dessert with treats from the local bakery. Easy peasy!

RHODY RESOURCES

LIGHTHOUSE COFFEE ROASTERS + CAFE

Featured product: Butterfly Lemonade

North Kingstown | @lighthouseco eeri

LOU LOU’S DECOR

Featured product: dinnerware, glassware, linens, decor

Newport & Tiverton | @loulousdecor

ROSE OF SHARON

Featured product: floral arrangements

Cranston | @rose_of_sharon1128

SOUTH COUNTY BREAD COMPANY

Featured product:

Sourdough Baguette

Wakefield | @southcountybread

WEDGE CHEESE AND PROVISIONS

Featured product: Highlawn Queen from Highlawn Farm in Lee, MA

Warren | @wedgerhodeisland

Photography and styling by Kayla Aucoin, courtesy of AUCOIN

LUNCH

Monday-Friday 11:30am-4pm

Stoneacre Brasserie is your classic neighborhood restaurant—elevated with thoughtfully sourced ingredients from local farmers, butchers, and shermen.

28 Washington Square, Newport 401.619.7810 • stoneacrebrasserie.com

BRUNCH Saturday & Sunday 9am-4pm

AFTERNOON TEA

FRIDAY–SUNDAY 2pm-4pm

DINNER

Monday-Thursday: 4pm-10pm

Friday & Saturday: 4pm-11pm Sunday: 4pm-9pm (10pm on Holidays)

ATTENTION

Restaurant Owners & Food Business Professionals!

Bookkeeping Towne, LLC has been educating and helping food businesses with the bookkeeping & fnancial analysis for a few years now. We are expanding and have created a subsidiary called Á La Carte Business Advisors focusing specifcally on the food industry!

We have created this subsidiary to help the food industry on a whole different level! Our clients will be able to take advantage of certifed food experts to help them with their business, such as food scientists, menu pricing specialists, Kitchen Audit Consultants, etc., in the Summer of 2023!

Stoneacre Garden is New England fair with an Asian twist. Come in on the best day of the week, for "Rock & Roll" ursdays with live music & sushi!

15 Swinburne Row, Newport 401.610.8400 • stoneacregarden.com

Monday-Friday 11:30am-4pm

BRUNCH Saturday & Sunday 10am-4pm

Monday-Thursday: 4pm-10pm

Friday & Saturday: 4pm-11pm Sunday: 4pm-9pm (10pm on Holidays)

CALL TODAY FOR A FREE CONSULTATION!

(401) 474-5229

1019 Waterman Ave, East Providence, RI ALaCarteBusinessAdvisors.com

Island Life

A Barrington kitchen gets reimagined with an eye on entertaining

By Elyse Major

So much time is spent in the kitchen. This statement rings true whether it’s a tiny galley style or an expansive space that looks like something from a Nancy Meyers movie. It’s where food is prepped and, for most homes in Little Rhody, the entrance, as we use the side or back door rather than the front. After 17 years, the homeowners of a then-new construction Colonial in Barrington were ready

for some updates to the hub of their home.

“We wanted an open floor plan, great for entertaining family and friends, and cooking,” said the homeowner. “We also like a coastalcontemporary look because it’s calming.” With that in mind, Michelle Parenteau of Michelle Lee Designs, an interior designer based in Johnston known for bringing panache to both residential and commercial spaces, was called in. What she

Above: A range of blues adds unexpected panache in the kitchen

Photos by Grace Lentini Photography, courtesy of Michelle Lee Designs

prescribed was a soft serene color scheme with a few unexpected touches to keep things lively, along with nods to both coastal and farmcoast styles.

“Lighting was very important,” says Parenteau, who kept the kitchen window bare, and installed both recessed and pendant lighting. A standout feature is a trio of lamps over the island, with an unexpected choice of teal with a weathered gold and ivory finish. Another bold selection was turning the kitchen island into a focal point. “I chose a navy blue island that would coordinate with the pale blue tiny hexagon backsplash tile. The homeowners

Photos by Grace Lentini Photography, courtesy of Michelle Lee Designs

Pendants provide task lighting

Spring has Arrived at

Beautiful Range Of Décor & Gifts For Spring!

EUROPEAN & US MADE TREASURES FOR HOME, GIFTS, MOM & BABY!

Open Mon., Wed.-Saturday 10-5:30 Sunday 12-4 (Closed Tuesday) Shop on our new website www.coryfarmsri.com

3124 East Main Road Portsmouth • 401-683-3124

WARREN’S HIDDEN GEM SINCE 2013 ∙ OPEN YEAR ROUND

We feature locally roasted coffee, gourmet sweet and savory crepes, espresso drinks & fresh baked goods made from scratch.

Conveniently located on Town Wharf, open until 10 p.m. every night.

Cafe Water Street ∙ 279 Water Street, Warren, RI ∙ 401.245.7071 Open seven days a week, all year

wanted to create a coastal farmhouse feel, so I chose the new Emerald Designer Color palette from Sherwin Williams,” Parenteau shares.

White cabinetry provides the foil for elements that imbue a seaside vibe such as wide plank wooden flooring in a bleached sandy tone and shimmering tile. Wooden bar stools with rattan seats connect with various fixtures throughout the space including the twisted decorative roping of the pendant lamp about the sink.

With their new kitchen ready for entertaining – including the addition of a wide refrigerator – the homeowners are delighted with their remodeled space. “It’s the room in the house that makes us most happy.”

Photos by Grace Lentini Photography, courtesy of Michelle Lee Designs

The farmhouse sink is practical and charming

Photos by Grace Lentini Photography, courtesy of Michelle Lee Designs

Glass-front upper cabinets create depth; colorful bowls connect to the various blues

Get Rhody Style

Ideas and resources for making the most of living in the Ocean State.

Discover Barrington

For this pair of homeowners, the best part of living in Barrington is “being so close to the water. So many fantastic restaurants in close proximity.” Favorite places to patronize include Daisy Dig’ins, Blue Kangaroo Café, Miku Japanese Cuisine, and Spaghetti Lane.

Bright Idea

“Adding pendant lighting over a kitchen island or kitchen sink can serve two purposes: a decorative element for your space as well as task lighting,” says Parenteau. “Size and scale of the pendants is very important depending on the height of the ceilings.”

Rhody Resources

Parenteau has a solid rep for using local talent. Here are some vendors used for this project: EastCoast Countertops, Lighting & Design by J&K Electric, Rhode Island Design Center, Rhode Island Tile, and Sherwin-Williams Paint Store. “I strive to use the best quality of materials. I listen to my client’s needs and wants and try to bring that vision to life.” Learn more at MichelleLeeDesigns.com

Six books every Rhode Island food lover needs to read

By Hugh Minor

Rhody Reads H

ungry for new books? This month we’re sharing a half-dozen picks with local connections to whet your appetite for food-focused reading. From cookbooks and guidebooks to entertaining essays, Rhode Islanders love to write about what they know, and what they know is food! Find or request books at your local seller and pick them up before or after a stop at your favorite eatery.

In Food Lo v ers’ Guide to Rhode Island: The Best Restaurants, Markets & Local Culinary Offerings , Patricia Harris and David Lyon capture all the gastronomic idiosyncrasies of the smallest state with a sense of joy and appreciation for the rich food culture we all cherish. Broken down by region, the authors share recipes and highlight everything from local lore to kitchen wisdom.

Marianne Kelly of Johnston gets the spotlight in GetSetUp Kitchen: A Global Culinary Journey . Released in February, 50 healthy recipes are presented, submitted by home chefs from around the globe. Learn how to make things like Kelly’s own Tofu Chicken Nuggets, a healthy, plant-based take designed for her grandchildren to make the bites plant-based and nutritious.

Elizabeth Rau’s The Good Slope is jam packed with stories showcasing food, including “Winter Clamming,” “Garden Peppers” and “Chef Peder.” Enjoy cherished tales from Rau’s time as a columnist for East Side Monthly (since merged with our sister pub Pro v idence Monthly ). As our publisher Barry Fain explains, “these well-crafted narratives produce smiles of recognition regardless of where one lives. Do yourself a favor and dig in. A great read.”

In Goodbye Pound Cake by Cranston’s Pat Mitchell, middle-schooler Michelle combats her own negative self-image to become healthier and more confident, while taking a unique approach to achieving self-acceptance that does not involve a crash diet. It’s a great read for anyone who has struggled to see themselves as fit – or to simply fit in.

Make your own treats at home with a little help from Icy, Creamy, Healthy, Sweet: 75 Recipes for Dairy-Free Ice Cream, Fruit-Forward Ice Pops, Frozen Yogurt, Granitas, Slushies, Shakes, and More by Providence writer and photographer Christine Chitnis. Summer weather is right around the corner, so it’s time to start mastering these flavorful, unique, refreshing, and healthy delicacies.

All summer long, Rhode Islanders hop in their cars, touring the coast to find the best clam cakes and chowder. Part of the Images of America series, Christopher Scott Martin and David Norton Stone take you on a ride through history in Rhode Island Clam Shacks . Explore how the simple bivalve became such a critical part of our seafood economy and remains a central ingredient in our culinary scene.

SHOP INDIE

A statewide listing of Rhode Island booksellers: Arc{hive} Book + Snackery: Warren, ArchiveBookSnackery.com

Barrington Books: BarringtonBooks.com

Book Nerd: Barrington, Facebook Books on the Square: Providence, BookSq.com

Charter Books: Newport, CharterBookStore.com

Curiosity & Co.: Jamestown, CuriosityAnd.Company/store

Heartleaf Books: Providence, HeartleafBooks.com

Inkfish Books: Warren, InkFishBooks.com

Island Books: Middletown, IslandBooksRI.indielite.org

Island Bound Bookstore: Block Island, IslandBoundBookstore.com

Lovecraft Arts & Sciences: Providence, WeirdProvidence.org

Paper Nautilus Books: Providence, PaperNautilusBooks.com

Rarities Books & Bindery: Wakefield, RaritiesOnline.com

Ri ra Bookstore + Bar: Providence, Ri Ra PVD.com

Savoy Bookshop & Cafe: Westerly, BankSquareBooks.com

Stillwater Books: Pawtucket, StillwaterBooksRI.com

Symposium Books: Providence, SymposiumBooks.com

Twenty Stories: Providence, TwentyStoriesLA.com

Send your Rhody book recommendations to Hugh at RhodyReads@gmail.com

Wakefield Books: Wakefield, WakefieldBooks.com

RHODY SNAPSHOTS

Scenes from Cheers to Leading Ladies, held March 23 at Aloft Providence