Grapegrower & Winemaker by Provincial Press Group

JULY 2014

What a blast! The egg is launched

Ageing wine under water

Why does a restaurant buy your wine?

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July 2014: Issue 606

Contents Features 44 Pruning

Managing to get down and dirty

50 Trellising

Pruning – the future may be back to the past

52 Spraying

Pruning without the pain

56 Frost

Smart way to grow your vines and your bank balance too

Stop bunch rot and all other nasties

My grapevines are frosted – what now?

Analytical services

news 6

My View – Let’s face it, that commodity’s called wine

winemaking

15 reasons to sell your wine business

Turning to water to turn it into wine

The doctor’s in – and so is the cork

Barossa stages first pruning expo

Prevention is best option for mousy offflavour in wine

Bringing the cellar to your door

Standing out at the big end of town

1000 ways to cap your day

Regional Roundup – New Zealand’s north island

French winemaker, German press, Tasmanian classic

Better solutions for better ID, better inspection, better costs

Do you really know what levels of trace metals are in your wine?

sales & marketing

grapegrowing

Benchmarking Shiraz production in Victoria

Oxygation of irrigation water boosts vine performance

Young guns – the dropout who picked up a stellar career

Cover crops and vineyard floor temperature

On-Premise: So many markets, so many decisions

business & technology 81

Top tips for keeping your workplace out of the danger zone

Sponsored by

7 JULY 2014

What a blast! The egg is launched

Ageing wine under water

Why does a restaurant buy your wine?

cover The world’s first stainless steel fermentation egg has been built in South Australia. Full story Page 10 Photo: Italo Vardaro

25 regulars 5

What’s online

Looking forward

Advertiser index

Marketplace classifieds

In this issue July Publisher and Chief Executive Hartley Higgins Managing EDITOR Elizabeth Bouzoudis EDITOR Andrew Mole editor@grapeandwine.com.au Editorial advisory board Dr Jim Fortune, Denis Gastin, Dr Steve Goodman, Dr Terry Lee, Paul van der Lee, Bob Campbell MW, Prof Dennis Taylor and Mary Retallack Editorial Stephanie Timotheou Advertising Sales Chas Barter sales@grapeandwine.com.au Circulation: Melissa Smithen subs@winetitles.com.au Subscription Prices Australia: 1 year (12 issues) $77.50 (inc. GST) 2 years (24 issues) $145 (inc. GST) New Zealand, Asia & Pacific: 1 year (12 issues) $110 (AUD) 2 years (24 issues) $210 (AUD) All other countries: 1 year (12 issues) $174.50 (AUD) 2 years (24 issues) $339 (AUD) Students (Aus only): 1 year (12 issues) $66 (inc. GST)

Engineers are often the unsung heroes of the Australian wine industry but the team at South Australia’s JMA Engineering might be about to change all that. Members of the company’s design and manufacturing departments have taken a jest as a challenge and spent more than two months turning it into a reality. Which went on show at the 2014 Winery Engineering Association conference at McLaren Vale where they unveiled the world’s first stainless steel fermentation egg. JMA make fermentation tanks by the dozen but with the launch of its 2500litre egg could be about to turn the industry upside down. They are giving the egg to a local winery for the winemaker to trial at the next vintage to see what its advantages are, and what refinements, if any, might need to be made. It is exactly this type of enterprise which ensures Australia stays at the cutting edge of the wine industry. As Nobel Laureate and Australian Wine Research Institute director Brian Schmidt told Grapegrower & Winemaker after his appointment: “If you compare our wine industry with any other country you would be amazed how complete the take-up of technology is here, from smallest to largest, compared with overseas.” The stainless steel egg will also be on display at WineTech next year, giving

the whole industry the chance to get a firsthand look at this remarkable innovation. This month we also introduce an occasional series in which we ask some of Australia’s leading restaurants why they stock the wines they do. We believe it provides a fascinating insight at the retail level where your wines are matched with food styles. And finally, in keeping with our ‘out there’ stories we also take a glance beneath the waterline at the rising levels of interest in ageing wine under water to see if it is a fad or a fair dinkum opportunity for winemakers. It has a genuine following in Europe and now winemakers Down Under are starting to dabble with immersing their oak barrels. So it comes as no surprise that another sharp-eyed entrepreneur is looking at setting up an underwater cellar in, of all places, Sydney Harbor. Ten Men Wines in the Yarra Valley has also decided to jump right in and give the idea a go and that story starts on Page 58. We hope you enjoy all the stories in our July issue and look forward to seeing you in August. Andrew Mole Editor Australian & New Zealand Grapegrower & Winemaker editor@grapeandwine.com.au

Winetitles Pty. Ltd. 630 Regency Road, Broadview, South Australia 5083 Phone: (08) 8369 9500 Fax (08) 8369 9501 info@winetitles.com.au www.winebiz.com.au Printing by Lane Print Group, Adelaide © Contents copyright Winetitles Pty Ltd 2014.

Contributors Greg Howell raises a disturbing question for any Australian winery planning to export to China when he reports that almost 23 per cent of wines tested at Vintessential have failed that country’s manganese import laws. His story appears on Page 74.

Richard Smart is one of the viticultural world’s most high-profile participants, having worked as a researcher, academic and international consultant in more than 30 countries. In this report he looks at the importance of better understanding of trunk diseases. His report begins on Page 44.

on the grapevine Clark receives 2014 Esther Knewitz Memorial Scholarship

LAST month Bibber International announced the 2014 Esther Knewitz Memorial Scholarship went to Jessica Clark – a master of oenology student at The University of Adelaide. The scholarship will give Clark the opportunity to extend her winemaking skills by completing a vintage in Germany from September to November at RehKendermann winery. The scholarship, made available to Australian winemakers in 2006, was created to keep Esther Knewitz’s memory alive and to support young people in the Australian wine industry who have the same zest for life and community spirit. Knewitz was an oenology student at Germany’s Geisenheim University and during her holidays in 2004 she came to Australia to gain work experience for the vintage season.

At 24 she died in a car crash, putting an end to her promising winemaking career. Applications for the 2014 scholarship were judged by Knewitz’s parents Anne and Horst, alongside Reh-Kendermann winemaker Philipp Maurer and Bibber International chief executive officer Sue Caloghiris. All judges were impressed with the high level of applications but said Clark’s was outstanding. As part of the work experience Clark will get at Reh-Kendermann winery, she will also receive return airfares, accommodation, all visa fees and $1000 spending money. Contact: Pamela Campusano P: 61 08 8374 0077 E: pamela@bibber.com.au

what’s online

DNA sequencing to create fine wine The West Australian Department of Agriculture and Food (DAFWA) and the University of Western Australia (UWA) are leading a national project that uses grape genome sequencing to examine how a vine’s DNA affects the taste and quality of wine. Project leader Michael Considine says the grape sequencing will improve a winemaker’s ability to create distinct regional flavours, reports the ABC.

Wine producers tackle big liquor chains online The Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA), which represents 2500 wine companies, has enlisted 60 producers for an online venture enabling direct sales to the public for companies that may have been bruised by the bigger supermarket chains. One of the major concerns of the WFA is the rising power of large liquor retailers owned by Coles and Woolworths and the ¬battle by wine producers to get space on their shelves, reports the Australian Financial Review.

Australian wine chief tips US as ‘outstanding opportunity’

The Best award - now it’s Viv Thomson, OAM

BEST’S patriarch Eric Vivian (Viv) Thomson has been recognised for his services to the wine industry by being awarded an Order of Australia Medal (OAM) as part of this year’s Queen’s Birthday Honours. Thomson OAM said he was incredibly humbled and overwhelmed to be held in such high esteem alongside 570 recipients. “I am so excited to be included in this prestigious honour roll. It was a genuine surprise to receive notice that it was happening – it’s so flattering,” he said. Thomson paid tribute to his family and in particular his wife Christine, who has supported him since their days of having a young family. “While I’m very honoured to receive the award, my wife and long-suffering family have been great contributors to the success of the business and my own endeavours,” he said. Thomson’s family purchased Best’s Great Western in 1920 and he’s been involved in the winery his entire life.

“You need to have a lot of passion to be involved in this business – to grow grapes and make wine,” he said. Thomson, a Roseworthy graduate, undertook his solo vintage in 1967 and completed his 54th consecutive vintage at Best’s in 2014. He was elected president of the Victorian Wine Industry Association in 1982 and is a former chairman of the Grampians Winemakers Association. He has also been a national wine show judge for more than 20 years. Upon receiving the OAM, Thomson acknowledged the contribution that Best’s staff has made throughout the years, from the winemakers and marketing team to the cellar hands and grape pickers. “The wine business is a great industry to be involved in and I thoroughly appreciate the assistance and support from colleagues and peers over the years,” he said. Contact: Jonathan Mogg P: 61 0423 029 200 E: jonathan@bestwines.com

Top Australian wine producer Neil McGuigan says the US market is a “sleeping giant” when it comes to wine consumption and predicts its growth will outpace China in the next few years. The Australian Vintage chief executive officer says as US consumption grows, it will run out of wine and have to source elsewhere, offering “outstanding opportunities” for producers, reports Harpers.

.com.au Australia’s wine industry portal by Winetitles Australia’s wine industry portal by

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my view Let’s face it, that commodity’s called wine THE common enemy [of the wine industry] is commoditisation.” It’s an easy line, offered by a Master of Wine in a Twitter thread, and one I’m sure would get nods of agreement at any industry conference. No one wants to be a commodity, in the same category as potatoes and pork bellies: stuff that’s bought by weight and price without any recognition being offered to the efforts and skills of the producer. What we all want to be is a bit of a brand. Something that is recognised, sought after and picked out from the crowd. This is simplistic, however. Wine, like tea, coffee and orange juice, is an agricultural product that has always been, at least partly, a commodity. People bought and sold anonymouslyproduced Bordeaux when the English still owned Aquitaine, just as they buy and sell it by the barrel today. The price those barrels fetch is partly driven by quality, but often its cost is also affected by uncontrollable factors such as the harvest size, by exchange rates and financial conditions, and by fashion. There is a direct parallel here between wine and a couple of other illustrious commodities: gold and diamonds. One of the sadder phenomena of the past few years has been the number of people who have responded to ‘Cash for Gold’ advertisements by selling their jewellery. Setting aside their sentimental value, many of the rings and bracelets that were transformed into cash were beautifullymade examples of skilled artisanship. That did not stop the unfashionable examples being treated as scrap to be melted down and reused. The appellation system and its New World equivalents actually facilitate commoditisation. Any professional buyer knows the going rate for basic Chablis or Chianti, and the Scandinavian monopolies regularly put out tenders for wines from specific regions. It is very hard for a producer in, say, Minervois to command as high a price for a bottle of their wine as a less fine effort from Margaux, even though the cost of production might be very similar. Even when the liquid is effectively branded as it often is in Champagne and Napa, a different level of commoditisation comes into play: the cost per ton or kilo of the grapes from which it is made.

6 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Robert Joseph, recognised as one of the world’s most interesting commentators on wine, looks at the commoditisation of the industry – far from what Savour Australia was looking for when launched last year he wrote in Meininger’s, and even further from the goals of Australian wine producers.

Tough to take: Robert Joseph says no-one in the wine industry wants to be a commodity, in the same category as potatoes and pork bellies: stuff that’s bought by weight and price.

Hardly the ‘premium’ image the organisers of last year’s Savour event wanted to paint. Brian Clements, vice president of California’s leading grape and bulk wine brokerage firm Turrentine, was quoted in an article in the North Bay Business Journal saying that: “It has been a challenge to sell 2013 Merlot grapes… even when they have been packaged with more desirable varieties.” California Cabernet Sauvignon is a lot more popular. “We have been selling excess tons from both Sonoma County at $2200$2300 a ton; Napa Valley, $3000-$3500; Mendocino and Lake counties, $1600$1,800.” So, however lovingly you farm your Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon vines, the chances are they’ll only net you half the price of the same variety grown in Napa. If that isn’t high-level commoditisation, I’d love to know what is. www.winebiz.com.au

Over the next few months, premium Australian and Argentine producers in particular are going to be confronted with some challenges they might not have anticipated as recently as a few months ago. In December 2013, the New York Times ran an article headlined ‘Argentina Tries to Give Malbec More Status’. Less than four weeks later, the Wine Industry Insight online news service offered the contrasting ‘Cheaper Malbec To Flood US Shelves’. Between the two publication dates, the Argentine peso had lost 20 per cent of its value in the space of seven days. Status and a weak currency do not always go hand in hand. Australians, who have, until recently, been struggling with a stiflingly strong currency, are seeing a similar phenomenon with their dollar dropping to its lowest value against the US currency since 2010. This, coupled with large stocks of unsold 2013 wine at the lower end of the price scale, more or less ensures that North American and UK consumers will be offered South East Australian Shiraz and Chardonnay at some very cheap prices. Hardly the ‘premium’ image the organisers of last year’s Savour event wanted to paint. If commoditisation really is an enemy, it’s a foe like the weather and human nature. You can rail against it all you like, but it’s not a battle many are ever really likely to win. • T his opinion first appeared in Meininger’s Wine Business International.

July 2014 – Issue 606

reasons to sell your wine business In the haunting words of Paul Simon there might be 50 ways to leave your lover but legal eagle and wine tragic Ben Killerby has just 15 reasons to sell your wine business during the current nightmare of oversupply and volatile exchange rates. THE true test of your success as a business person is not how many trophies you won, or how many distributors you have or how many of your wines are sold out before next vintage. The true test comes when you sell your business: Were you able to convince someone other than yourself to buy into the dream? Behind the decision to sell are a number of drivers. Which of the following ring true for you?

1. C ORPORATE REASONS TO SELL A BUSINESS Whether you are a key executive in a large wine company thinking about July 2014 – Issue 606

a divestment, or an SME owner selling a business, it can be because you have determined it is a non-core asset or division. Usually this is because it: • No longer fits within the corporate strategy. • Is requiring too many assets. • Is requiring too much management time. • Is being sold to pay down debt.

2. T OO MUCH WEALTH TIED UP IN ONE INVESTMENT How much of your personal wealth should you have in one investment? Five per cent, 10 per cent, 20 per cent? Ask your financial planner, but it www.winebiz.com.au

probably shouldn’t be more than 20 per cent. Business owners, however, have a disproportionately large amount of their wealth tied up in their business. A decision to reduce your exposure to one asset class such as a vineyard or winery can be a trigger for sale.

3. T HE OWNERS HAVE COME TO THE LIMIT OF THEIR ABILITIES When you are an enthusiastic entrepreneur in the early stage of your business, you eagerly take on the roles of production manager, marketing manager and HR manager – mainly because you don’t have a choice. As the business gets bigger, however, Grapegrower & Winemaker

news 10. O NE OF THE SHAREHOLDERS IS GETTING DIVORCED

you realise you were not cut out to fulfil all of these roles. This realisation is the second worst thing that can happen. The worst thing that can happen is that you don’t have this realisation and you plough on obliviously.

As a general proposition, if you have enough trusts, holding companies and lawyers, you can shield your business from creditors, litigants and commercial risk. As another general proposition, it doesn’t matter how many trusts, holding companies and lawyers you have, you can’t shield your business from your soon-to-be-ex-spouse. Unless there are other assets to offer the other spouse, divorce can trigger a sale of the business. Even if your marriage is rock solid, the divorce of one of your partners or shareholders can trigger a sale.

4. T HE OWNERS HAVE LOST THE PASSION Wine is a passionate business, but perhaps the passion you felt in your thirties has diminished by your fifties. Staying up all night nursing a ferment, standing all day at a trade show or listening to yet another distributor tell you “it’s hard out there” – these may all have you wondering whether it is all still worth it. A lack of enthusiasm for the business is a sign it is better to sell sooner rather than later – before that lack of enthusiasm sends the business spiralling downwards.

5. T HE OWNERS ARE READY TO RETIRE More than 50 per cent of business owners in Australia expect the sale of the business to fund their retirement. If this is so in your case, then take action now. The first of the baby boomers turned 65 in 2011 and their retirement will put an unprecedented number of businesses on the market at once. Unfortunately, many business owners are so used to the perks of their business that they are putting off the decision to sell it. This delays the important commitment to implementing an exit plan and means you are competing with even more businesses that have also been put on the market.

6. G LOBAL EVENTS HAVE CONSPIRED AGAINST YOU Remember the heady days of the Australian wine industry in the late 1990s? The dollar was low, the demand was high and everyone wanted Australia’s “sunshine in a bottle.” These days, the wines are just as good, but things outside your control have changed. Perhaps you feel it is just too hard to continue in this new environment.

7. THE 800 POUND GORILLA Another trigger for considering a sale is when an “800 pound gorilla” enters the market – a competitor so big that it is only a matter of time before it starts devouring your customers and market share.

8 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Sell or be damned: Lawyer Ben Killerby says the true test of any wine business is the decision of when, and why, to sell.

In this situation, it is often wise to sell out before the inevitable happens. In the wine industry, the “gorilla” can also be a dominant retailer who makes your margins razor thin or non-existent – if you can get shelf space at all.

8. T HE BANKS TIGHTEN LENDING CRITERIA Gone are the days of automatic renewal of banking facilities. Land previously valued at $10m would give you a 70 per cent loan to valuation ratio (“LVR”), meaning you could have a $7m loan. If that property is now worth only $8m, then the bank will drop to 70 per cent of this new valuation i.e. $5.6m – that’s a reduction of $1.4m. This means you have to reduce your borrowings or sell some assets to cover it. Do you really want to sell other assets to continue to fund your wine business?

9. T HE STRESS OF KEEPING THE BUSINESS GOING KEEPS THE OWNERS UP AT NIGHT There is one sort of stress and that is associated with one-off events. When the event passes, so does the stress. There is, however, a more insidious type of stress. It is called chronic stress. This is when you can’t sleep at night worrying about the business. It is when you wake up each morning hoping it has all gone away – and it hasn’t. At this point, the business is simply not worth it.

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11. T HE SHAREHOLDERS ARE HAVING A DISPUTE Shareholder conflicts can trigger a sale. Examples of conflicts are when: • There is a falling out between the shareholders. • One shareholder wants to retire and another wants to borrow money and expand. • One shareholder wants to be paid dividends and other shareholders want to reinvest the funds. Without a written shareholders’ agreement, these opposing views make it difficult to continue. Even with a shareholder’s agreement, there is often a clause allowing one shareholder to put his/her shares to the other shareholders and for them to buy those shares out in 30, 60 or 90 days. That sounds fine in theory, but often

The decision to sell a business is a big one, but the failure to make that decision can be devastating the other shareholders simply cannot come up with that much cash in that period of time. So the business goes to market.

12. SUDDEN AND SERIOUS HEALTH PROBLEMS A debilitating or life-threatening illness is all it takes for most business owners to quickly consider selling. Usually this is because they cannot continue in the business, but in a few cases, it is because they have had such a wake-up call they realise there are more

July 2014 – Issue 606

things in what is left of their life than grinding it out in the business.

13. F AMILY DISPUTES SPILLING OVER INTO THE BUSINESS Disputes between brothers, sisters and parents can spill over into the business. At other times, a co-owner dies and leaves his or her share to a surviving spouse. That spouse can end up in a business they don’t understand with shareholders or management they don’t agree with. This can paralyse a previously successful business and force a sale.

14. T HE DISINTEREST OF THE NEXT GENERATION Many business owners who have built up successful businesses to hand on to their children often find their children are entirely uninterested or unsuited to running it. In this case, the best course may be to sell the business entirely.

15. T HE DRIPPING TAP Finally, there is the case of a business that is steadily losing money and the owners are unwilling to put further funds into the venture.

SUMMARY One way or the other, the sale of your business can be one of the most important events in your life. Ideally you will: • Place it in the hands of a wellcapitalised and committed buyer who will take it to the next level of success. • Sell it for enough money to solve your problem – whether that is to fund your retirement, rebalance your investment portfolio or fund your next business. The decision to sell a business is a big one, but the failure to make that decision can be devastating. Not recognising the right time to sell may mean the opportunity has passed forever. If any of the above reasons strike a chord with you, then start work on your exit plan today. • N EXT MONTH: How to decide when to sell your wine business.

THE AUTHOR:

Ben Killerby is lawyer and corporate advisory manager at Saxon Klein, which specialises in business exits. He has more than 26 years’ experience in private enterprise, as a lawyer and as a corporate advisor. He is also a former vineyard owner, in Margaret River. Contact Ben Killerby E: ben.killerby@saxonklein.com.au W: www.saxonklein.com.au.

July 2014 – Issue 606

Probing provenance: Penfolds’ winemaker Peter Gago uses the double-corkscrew approach to remove a cork at a re-corking clinic.

The doctor is in – and so’s the cork For more than 20 years Penfolds has been staging clinics around the world to check on the state of their wines. And as the wines become more valuable, the clinics are assuming greater importance. Felicity Carter rolled up to the London clinic (sans bouteille) to see what all the fuss was about. A COUPLE stands in front of a table with three bottles on it. The woman shakes very slightly. “This is worse than when I had my first child,” she says. “It’s quite emotional.” In front of them a man is inserting two Screwpulls simultaneously into a cork, to ease it ever so gently out of the bottle. Not just any bottle – a 1964 Penfolds Grange. He takes his time opening it.

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THE CLINIC The scene was the Penfolds Re-corking Clinic at the Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge, London. The location was chosen both for its luxury – the deep blue carpets muffle every footstep (and potentially every scream) – and its convenience. People can drive right up to the front door, which makes it easier if they’re carrying boxes of wine. Grapegrower & Winemaker

news After 22 years of running the Re-corking Clinics, Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago says the company has got the fine details worked out. Based on Château Lafite Rothschild’s practice of re-corking old bottles for customers, the Clinic gives anybody who owns any bottle of Penfolds a chance to have the wine assessed, re-topped and re-capsuled. More than 120,000 bottles have been checked to date. To the casual observer, it looks a lot like going to the doctor. A re-corked bottle will have a Penfolds Red Wine Clinic capsule moulded on to it when the checking is over, and a Clinic back label that’s numbered, dated and signed by a Penfolds’ winemaker. “If the wine is older, having the sticker can improve its value,” says Gago. He does open one of the nervous woman’s bottles. A tasting portion of 15ml – or 2 per cent of the bottle – is poured into a tasting glass and the bottle immediately injected with argon to stop oxidation. Gago tastes the wine. “It’s perfect,” he says, handing her the glass. The bottle is then topped up with the current vintage of the same wine. Anybody bringing a bottle of Grange in that day would find it topped up with the outstanding 2008 vintage.

Australian clinics will be held this year at the following locations:

Christmas. You’ve given them permission to drink their special bottle.”

• B risbane 5 – 6 August Hilton Hotel

BEST OF BREED

• S ydney 19 – 21 August Shangri-La Hotel • M elbourne 2 – 4 September Crown Metropol Melbourne • P erth 17 – 18 September Royal Freshwater Bay Yacht Club • A delaide 30 September – 1 October National Wine Centre

“A lot of people won’t re-cork their bottles until they know the top-up wine is from a great vintage,” says Gago. If the wine had shown problems, it wouldn’t have been topped up,” he warns. “It would have been sealed with a plain cork and not re-capsuled, and its owner advised to drink it quickly. Even when the wine isn’t good enough to re-cork, Gago says it’s easy to make people happy. “You just tell them to go home and drink the wine, or to drink it at

The Clinics also allow Penfolds to track its wines and their condition. It also allows them to remove corked, oxidised, damaged or fake wines from circulation, to “improve the breed” as Gago puts it. The issue of counterfeit is, of course, the nightmare that keeps makers of auction-worthy wines up at night. “We track each and every bottle,” says Gago. “We can say where it was re-corked and what it was topped up with. We put a sticker on the bottle and keep a sticker for our database.” As for the couple with the 1964 Grange, the cork is finally out. As the winemaker pours 15ml of wine into a glass, the couple leans forward, anxiously. The wine is in perfect condition. It gets a sticker. And a serious sigh of relief. Contact: Peter Gago P: 61 8 8301 5400 E: peter.gago@tweglobal.com This article first appeared in Meininger’s Wine Business International.

What a blast! World’s first stainless steel egg launched WINE fermentation is being taken to infinity – and beyond. First there was oak. Then the ceramic egg. Now South Australia’s JMA Engineering has come up with the stainless steel egg. And this mind-blowing bit of engineering is way out there – with a capacity more than twice the size of its nearest, non-steel rival. So cutting edge it is still the only one in the world. And JMA’s national sales manager Mark Johnson says the next stage in the launch of their super egg will be to deliver it to one of the state’s bigger wineries to let the winemaker have a play with it during next vintage. “It started out as a lark, but once everyone here started to look at it seriously it quickly became a major project,” Johnson says. “To make a normal fermenter normally takes us about four days,” he says. “This was four weeks in design and fabrication and another four weeks in getting the construction just right. “It has a 2500-litre capacity and comes with a cooling and heating jacket to

10 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Rocket man: JMA director Andy Moldovan with his prototype stainless steel fermentation egg. It began life as a joke but may still prove to be a major hit.

give the winemaker total control over its contents.” Johnson says they have looked around the world and not been able to find another stainless steel egg – and certainly not one of this size and with all the added www.winebiz.com.au

features. He says JMA took it to the recent Winery Engineering Association conference in McLaren Vale as a talking point at their trade display. But there was so much genuine interest the boys from the Riverlandbased engineering company suddenly realised the joke might be on them. “It seemed like a good idea when we were joking about it,” Johnson laughs. “But the design team really had to put a lot into it and what they came up with left the boys in fabrication scratching their heads,” Johnson says. “Originally we thought if we could get something that just looked like an egg it would be great for WineTech next year,” he admits. “But now we think we might really be onto something. Sure it’s big, but that’s economies of scale against the cost of building this.” The countdown to WineTech might be on but JMA Engineering has already launched what is sure to be one of its standout attractions. Contact: Mark Johnson P: 0408 822 434 E: mark@jmaeng.com.au July 2014 – Issue 606

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Bred to win: Fifth generation Barossa grapegrower Jim Boehm was winner of the Electrocoup Individual Rod and Spur event in the Barossa Pruning Competition. Photo: Courtesy of Dragan Radocaj

Barossa stages first pruning expo MORE than 120 grapegrowers, and viticulture trade and industry personnel attended the inaugural Barossa Pruning Expo held at the Nuriootpa Research Centre last month. The Expo, organised by the Barossa Grape & Wine Association (BGWA) and the Barossa VitiTech Group comprised educational workshops, a trade show featuring leading brands such as Pellenc, Felco, Electrocoup, Bahco, FMR and Rossi and a pruning competition. The pruning competition, offering $10,000 worth of prizes, was hotly contested. Fifth generation Light Pass grower Jim Boehm took home the first prize of a pair of Electrocoup pruning shears in the Individual Rod & Spur event. And Ryan Longmire from the Clare Valley won a pair of Pellenc Lixion

12 Grapegrower & Winemaker

pruning shears in the Individual Spur event. It was a thrilling win for Boehm, who says his grandfather’s pruning trophy from way back in the 1930s still takes the pride of place on his mantlepiece at home. The team event was won by the “Valley All Stars” from Clare; second was “Max Workforce” and third “Henschke’s” Mike Weber, Alex Watt and Ron Tscharke. BGWA viticulture development officer Nicki Robins says the Barossa Pruning Expo is another step in the BGWA’s efforts to enhance the Barossa’s reputation as the leader in the wine industry. Robins says the event is also designed to build stronger relationships amongst both the growers and tindustry suppliers. “The Barossa Pruning Expo is an example of the BGWA’s strong focus www.winebiz.com.au

on helping growers optimise financial returns,” Robins says. “We are dedicated to ensuring the Barossa is producing the highest quality fruit from vineyards that are financially and environmentally sustainable long into the future,” she says. The Expo also featured case studies of best-practice vineyard pruning methods and provided a forum to present and discuss ‘remedial’ pruning practices to manage Eutypa. The workshops were headed by Mark Sosnowski, Australia’s leading Eutypa research scientist, who gave growers an update on SARDI’s latest research efforts to prevent and manage Eutypa. Contact: Nicki Robins P: 61 8 8563 0650 E: nicki@barossa.com July 2014 – Issue 606

Bringing the cellar to your door IF necessity is the mother of invention, frustration must run a very close second. Just ask Lynton Manuel and his mates Todd Nelson and Rob Dunn. Now based in Sydney, South Australian expat Manuel just couldn’t find retail outlets which stocked the boutique wines he loved from the Barossa, or Clare Valley and McLaren Vale. And he could only drive home and truck a load back so many times. So the trio launched WineCloud. com.au which, in Manuel’s words, lets consumers track down their favourite wines and discover new ones. The concept is simple. WineCloud is a portal to link consumers with the boutique wine industry. You pay WineCloud; it pays the winery and the winery ships its product direct to you. “I just couldn’t find the ones I wanted anywhere. "The large liquor stores were only stocking the bigger brands” he said. The three musketeers make a good match. Manuel does social media servicing, Nelson is an e-commerce specialist and Dunn a professional website developer. They have worked together in those roles in the same company so they knew they were a good match and the rest, they hope, is not so much history as an exciting 4 0 3 2future M e t in a cyberspace. r e x 8 8 x 1 8 5 1

in stores in Sydney, but I wanted access to everything – and I think a lot of other people do as well.” So the boys built WineCloud. Which they now run alongside their ‘real’ jobs in the hope it will develop into something seriously serious. And when they are too busy to keep up the backroom is staffed by assorted WAGs and one father who thought he had actually retired. That team is doing it for love, not money, although Manuel hopes somewhere down the track they will get Manuel’s interest in wine was casual some sort of reward. at best. Until he started at the University “We are still very much in the start up of Adelaide where he hooked up with phase but the initial industry response assorted offspring of some of the state’s has been fantastic and very encouraging,” most famous names. he adds. Including a couple of Lehmanns. “WineCloud is not just about buying “Wine was one thing, but these guys and selling wine. It’s also a social media would occasionally nick something from site where wine lovers can chat to the their fathers’ cellars and that’s when I winemakers, ask each other’s advice and discovered there is wine and then there rate their favourite drops. is wine,” Manuel admits. “WineCloud doesn’t charge its “That opened my eyes, I mean really sellers sign-up fees; instead it takes a opened them, about what wine could be small commission on the wines sold. and how much you could enjoy it,” he Winemakers have full control and can says. decide how much they want to sell and “Once I got to Sydney I found it so the price at which they want to sell it. hard to keep in touch with the wines I “The winemaker is then responsible had discovered were so good. for getting the wines out to customers. “Not just the Lehmann wines but also Some of the people working with us are wines that were being lovingly crafted by already doing deals for free shipping on so many smaller players in areas across orders above a certain size. the state. “We “Sure you could get all the big labels 2 0 1 4 - 0 2 - 1 3 T1 5 : 5 5 : 1 9 + 1 1 : 0 0 only launched in April so it is

There is that thing about mountains and Mohammed and who goes to whom and that provided the germ of an idea which has seen three mates take their search for better wines into cyberspace with the launch of a wine marketing portal.

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Hey, hey, you, you, get onto my cloud: The brains trust behind WineCloud.com, from left, Lynton Manuel, Rob Dunn and Todd Nelson, celebrate the launch of their online wine marketing business the only way they know how. With a good red.

very early days yet. Obviously we started off the back of friends but we are now starting to get orders from people we have never heard of so it is starting to get some traction.” Manuel says he believes the appeal of dealing direct with small wineries will have a lot of interest from people wanting to make their wine journey an experience. With the chance to discuss the product with those winemakers an integral part of that. Too often he says the big retailers sell you what’s good business for them, and/ or the tried and tested products. “This is a totally different business model; this is designed to connect winemakers and wine drinkers. "We are not a discount seller, and we are not looking to get into the distribution business. “There is a series of protocols for our member wineries to go through as part of the sign-on process and we then work

14 Grapegrower & Winemaker

These guys would occasionally nick something from their fathers’ cellars and that’s when I discovered there is wine and then there is wine with them to make sure the service back to the consumer is as fast and as smooth as possible.” A wine club is on the agenda for those clients who like a regular shipment, and WineCloud is also looking to partner with complementary brands. “We have already established a link with Vintec for a giveaway promotion and links with other people in the wine chain will also be important to us in the long haul,” Manuel says. “Obviously we are working the social media pretty heavily, and we are working to build our customer base so when we offer regional focus promotions we will have the diversified following we need to www.winebiz.com.au

make them a success.” Clearly their heads might be up in the clouds with the excitement of a new business launch, but the three musketeers also have their feet firmly on the ground. And are taking baby steps before they start jumping around and celebrating a success. Even then they may keep things quiet so they can keep the low-cost labour component of WAGs and parents slaving away unaware of the potential for some silver lining in the aforementioned cloud. Contact: Lynton Manuel P: 61 (0)405 343 770 E: lynton@winecloud.com.au July 2014 – Issue 606

No hiccups with lower alcohol yeast breakthrough COLLABORATIVE research by Lallemand Oenology and the French National Institute for Agricultural Research (INRA) has found that non-GMO Saccharomyces cerevisiae wine yeast is capable of producing lower alcohol levels in wine with no production of undesirable compounds. This particular wine yeast is the first in the Saccharomyces cerevisiae species to be selected for its low rate of sugar to alcohol conversion. For example, in a wine with a potential alcohol level of 15.8% (v/v), this wine yeast produces a wine with 1.3 degrees of alcohol less than all other wine yeasts utilised, and compensates by producing more glycerol – a desired natural metabolite that increases the sensation of fullness in the wine. Interestingly, this wine yeast does not produce such undesirable compounds as acetoin and the acetate level is particularly low. During wine trials, this new wine yeast maintained the overall quality of the wine produced. The selection method was described

as adaptive evolution, which is the selection of natural yeast with desired characteristics. There is a patent pending method for obtaining low ethanol-producing yeast strains, yeast strains obtained therefrom and their use (January 2014, 557295502EP). The challenge is now to produce this yeast in active dry yeast form to make it available to winemakers. Lallemand has extensive expertise in the optimisation of yeast production of many species with different needs.

MARKET FOR LOW ALCOHOL WINES “We therefore undertook the development of the production process of this innovative wine yeast ensuring that it maintains its remarkable properties during winemaking, a step prior to its official launch in the wine industry,” the company said. An announcement will be made when the yeast is commercially available. With the spectre of global warming and its impact on viticultural practices

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Numbers game: Cork & Cleaver sommelier Jim Boutsis says the restaurant currently has around 200 dozen cases in stock supporting the 350 wines rotated through its wine list.

JIM Boutsis likes to sample at least 1000 different wines a year. Boil it down and that’s about three wines a day, every day, of said year (give or take a public holiday or two). All on top of his work as sommelier and maître d’ at Cork & Cleaver – Adelaide’s signature steak house. Tucked away in the city’s swanky eastern suburbs C&C currently has around 200 dozen cases in stock supporting the 350 wines rotated through its wine list. A list Boutsis admits is dominated by classic South Australian reds “because that’s what our customers want”. But he is also the first to admit tastes, his included, are constantly evolving. For example, a decade ago C&C might have had one fish and one chicken item on the menu – which is presented to each diner on a meat cleaver. Today it has expanded that to both vegetarian and, shock, horror, even vegan. “Because that is also what some of our customers want,” Boutsis adds. “We recently hosted a vegan wedding here,” he says. “And only two or three years ago we would never had had a Moscato on the wine list and now I have five.”

16 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Stratos Pouras, C&C founder and owner, would have to be one of Adelaide’s most enduring restaurateurs – and more enduring than his wine list, which undergoes constant change. With his Glenunga restaurant he found the perfect formula of red meat, red meat and red wine. In its 34 years he might have occasionally tweaked the menu but the format, the décor and even some of the staff is pretty much the way they were when it first opened its doors 36 years ago. Pouras and Boutsis first met up at Swains in 1977. Pouras left in 1978 to found C&C with Boutsis following him in 1984. But not before becoming his son-in-law in 1981, marrying daughter Christine. It was a marriage made in food service heaven. While Pouras kept driving the high standards from the kitchen and front of house Boutsis quickly settled in behind the bar, in the cellar and building a strong rapport with his new-look wine list and the legions of regular customers. Wine, as Boutsis says, “is the essence of life as far as I am concerned”. “I did not really grow up with it, and www.winebiz.com.au

1000 ways to cap your day This is the first of an occasional series looking at high-profile restaurants and how, and why, they choose the labels which go on their wine lists. This month Andrew Mole caught up with the man behind the Cork & Cleaver’s cellar.

July 2014 – Issue 606

when I moved into restaurants the food side never did much for me,” he says. “But the wine. It became an obsession and I became an avid collector, developing my own palate and learning from everyone I could.” That included rubbing shoulders with the Schuberts, Crosers and Knappsteins amongst others and all the while adding to his own collection as well as the restaurant’s. Like all sommeliers Boutsis says the market sets the primary list but his great delight is unearthing something new and then switching on patrons to something slightly different. He deals mostly with agents but has never turned away small winery owners knocking at the door with their wares in the boot of their cars. It is the boutique wineries, he says, which add the zing to the wine list. “We currently have about 100 Shiraz in the rotation. That is the most in-demand red we have, far and away,” he says. “But I am so passionate about the boutiques. I am not all that interested in the Big Four, although we obviously have to have a few Penfolds and the like on the list. “That includes a dozen Grange, but

I am proud to say about 95 per cent of that is South Australian wine, with a few Italians and just one French, a Beaujolais they are strictly there for the show. We have never sold one of them, and I don’t expect we will.” Boutsis says you don’t necessarily have to be a trailblazer but he prides himself on the wines he has identified early and which have gone on to have great success. Such as some of the earliest releases under the Jim Barry label out of the Clare Valley. “When I joined Stratos the wine selection was pretty small, too small, and I started with 50 wines and have built that into today’s 350,” he says. “I am proud to say about 95 per cent of that is South Australian wine, with a few Italians and just one French, a Beaujolais. “Our average price point is around $45 and while we do have BYO (there is a $20 corkage fee for that) we have found nearly all our customers, and particularly our regulars, are here for the depth of our wine selection and aren’t interested in

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competing with that. “We have a new list every month, otherwise I feel I am not doing my job and the people who come here are always looking for the latest lineup and how it matches their meals. Boutsis is just as passionate about wine closures. And cannot, “for the life of me”, understand why anyone would use anything except a screwcap. “They are absolutely magnificent the way they are developing and they have already cut wastage here by more than 90 per cent,” he adds. “Before screwcaps at the end of each month the wall in the storeroom would be lined with bottles that were going back because of oxidisation and cork taint. “Come and look at this,” he says jumping to his feet and producing two bottles from behind the bar. “This is what we have got for this

Grapegrower & Winemaker

news month to send back. Just two, And they were both corked wines. I have never had to send back a screwcap. “Why anyone would use anything else is beyond me. I know some are passionate about cork and the image they think it portrays, even in Australia,” he says rattling off a few names he won’t touch because he doesn’t think it is worth the trouble of trying their corked product. “We have even had the odd chateau here and had cork problems with them all (but he groans at the suggested name change of C&C to Screwcap & Cleaver to keep up with the times). “But people who come here have that Australian palate. Young reds where you can get the fruit and the full impact of what the grapegrower and winemaker have been able to do with them. “Here we are so spoilt with the wines we even leave out, let alone the ones we put in.” Boutsis says the profile of the restaurant industry is also as changing as his wine list. “Things such as the fringe benefits tax, pokies, drinking laws and the economy, they have all taken their toll in the market – but the market has also overcome them all and continually reinvented itself. “Right now I think my biggest wish would be for more young people to appreciate wine and realise what a lifelong journey it can be. “I have about 4000 – all old-age reds – in my cellar and none of our three sons are in the slightest bit interested. I imagine half of them are shot now – those would be the ones with the corks. “The oldest is a ’59 Wynns Hermitage and that’s only there because it is the year I was born.” But getting back to where it all started. With Boutsis and his 1000 new wines every year. He won’t sample them in front of the agent, and doesn’t want any outside

influences. So the agent leaves a sample or a bottle or it is scratched from the list. Boutsis then gets back to each agent within the week with his decisions. And there is none of that sniff; swill and spit for this man.

“They don’t all make the list but they all make my stomach.” Contact: Jim Boutsis P: 61 8 8379 8091 E: info@corkandcleaver.com.au

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July 2014 – Issue 606

Prestigious wine show announces new chair of judges MACQUARIE Group Sydney Royal Wine Show Committee chair Lyndey Milan OAM has named Samantha Connew as the new chair of judges – the first female to be appointed to the prestigious role. Connew has 15-years’ experience in winemaking with some of the biggest wineries in Australia, as well as international experience in the US, Spain and Italy. She will take the reins from former chair of judges Iain Riggs who stepped down at the end of the 2014 show after six years in the role.

It’s a first: Samantha Connew has been appointed the first female judge at the Sydney Royal Wine Show.

Riggs will stay on as deputy chair of judges. Milan said Connew had earned her place and looked forward to seeing the Macquarie Group Sydney Royal Wine Show continue to grow under her leadership. “Samantha is a highly respected wine judge and has been a panel chair at many regional and capital city wine shows,” Milan said. The 2015 Macquarie Group Sydney Royal Wine Show will be held from 2-5 February 2015 and entries open Wednesday 20 August 2014.

The search for Australia’s most outstanding wines kicks off this month THE Royal Melbourne Wine Awards (RMWA) is a celebration of excellence in Australian winemaking and is renowned both nationally and internationally as one of Australia’s largest and most prestigious wine award programs. This year’s entries have been open since July 1. The RMWA, hosted by the Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria

(RASV), showcases the diversity and quality of Australian wines, recognising outstanding achievements in the pursuit of product excellence. It’s driven by an esteemed committee of industry leaders who are this year joined by internationally acclaimed wine writer and sommelier Matt Skinner and the Crown’s director of wine Chris

Crawford. Last year more than 3000 entries were tasted from 540 producers. The awards develop, support and promote quality in Australian wine. Entrants will have until August 1 to enter across a total of 77 classes competing for 22 trophies.

Warm reception for cooler climate Shiraz Symposium COOL climate Shiraz is very much on the radar if the success of the recent Shiraz Symposium is any guide. The sellout Melbourne event attracted producers from Victoria and SA. “We even had interest from people in NSW wanting to do something similar up there,” AWRI Victorian node manager Dr Mark Krstic said. He was quick to point out, however,

that the focus was on “cooler climate” Shiraz in a stylistic rather than strictly geographical sense. “We looked broadly at Shiraz in areas cooler than the traditional regions, as well as using alternative winemaking techniques such as whole bunch fermentation or limited fining that give some stylistic differences to cooler climate regions,” he said.

“There’s a lot of interest in what Australia can do with Shiraz in cooler regions, both from producers and consumers. After all, a Tasmanian Shiraz won the Jimmy Watson trophy two years ago.” The annual symposium is a key part of the GWRDC-funded Greater Victoria Regional Program, which the AWRI runs in association with Wine Victoria.

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REGIONAL ROUNDUP

Regional Roundup: North Island, New Zealand This month Stephanie Timotheou looks at what the Kiwis on New Zealand’s North Island have been up to. From new release wines and award wins to taking their top drops around the world, producers from Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough and Gisborne are proving the New Zealand wine industry is a force to be reckoned with.

$500,000 campaign helps wineries tap into Chinese market WINE producers in Hawke’s Bay have joined forces in an effort to promote the region’s wine to the growing market in China. The three-year campaign was backed by $500,000 from the Agricultural and Marketing Research and Development Trust with input from 17 wineries including Vidal Estate. Vidal Estate chief executive Hugh Crichton said the joint move would help improve the understanding of New Zealand wine in China and hoped the project would help establish the region as a distinct area like Bordeaux in France. “When you look around the world and you look at successful regions, they really are known as a brand – for example Bordeaux, Burgundy and Barolo,” he said. “We looked back at ourselves and asked who we are and where we want to be.” The funding was used to hire wine marketer and educator Fongyee Walker of China’s Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting. Walker has planned to host educational events and wine tastings as well as social media campaigns to help educate the Chinese public about the New Zealand wine market. Walker, who appeared in the movie Red Obsession released last year, said

Gaining exposure: Vidal Estate chief executive Hugh Crichton said the campaign would help establish Hawke’s Bay as a distinct area like France’s Bordeaux region.

Chinese consumers were wary of exploring the wine world because of their limited knowledge. “Lack of education and a lack of confidence to buy for taste and not for the label is the biggest barrier in the Chinese market,” she said. “This holds back most Chinese consumers from exploring the range of wines in the world.” The Chinese market is currently

dominated by red wine, accounting for 90 per cent of all sales. According to Crichton, Hawke’s Bay was the ideal region to promote to China, as it’s the second largest wine region in New Zealand and is dominant in red wine plantings. Contact: Vidal Estate P: 64 (0)6 872 7440 E: enquiries@vidal.co.nz

Sacred Hill’s 2013 HALO Chardonnay reaches new heights HAWKE’S Bay’s 2013 vintage was phenomenal according to winemakers from the region and Sacred Hill’s was no exception. Senior winemaker Tony Bish described the growing season as a perfect summer with warm and dry conditions from start to finish. Perfect vintage: Sacred Hill’s 2013 HALO Chardonnay.

20 Grapegrower & Winemaker

He said the winery’s newly released 2013 HALO Chardonnay was a fine example of the quality vintage Sacred Hill experienced. “Our slightly elevated and cooler inland site high above the Tutaekuri River has meant elegance and good acidity have been retained, allowing us to express citrus blossom characters of this spectacular vineyard in a truly exceptional year,” he said. “The 2013 Chardonnay is true to the HALO tradition of delivering wines with depth and texture. www.winebiz.com.au

“The fruit was barrel fermented in French oak puncheons and barriques before the wine was lees stirred to enhance texture and richness.” Bish, who has completed more than 30 vintages, said the wine was then aged with minimal handling which preserved its fruit purity and character. Contact: Sacred Hill Vineyards P: 64 (0)6 879 4158 E: enquires@sacredhill.com July 2014 – Issue 606

Gimblett Gravels region receives top gongs at the 2014 International Wine Challenge THE Gimblett Gravels wine district scooped two top honours at the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in London last month. Crossroads Winemakers Collection Syrah 2012 was awarded best New Zealand red wine and best New Zealand Syrah, while Pask Declaration Chardonnay 2012 received trophies for the top Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay, the top New Zealand Chardonnay and the top New Zealand white wine. “It’s great to receive this recognition for our Syrah at such a prestigious competition,” Crossroads winemaker Miles Dinneen said. “Our Elms vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels winegrowing district consistently produces gold medal and trophy wines and this is the biggest one yet.” The Declaration Chardonnay releases have also continued receiving gold medal

awards since first being introduced in 1991. “The award was a recognition of the development of Chardonnay in New Zealand,” Pask managing director and winemaker Kate Radburnd said. Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association chairman Tony Bish was proud of the region’s wins and said receiving best New Zealand red wine and best New Zealand white wine was an outstanding achievement. “Quality will reach even greater heights with increased vine age and experience at obtaining the best expression of the terroir,” Bish said. Contact: Tony Bish P: 64 6 834 2556 E: tony.bish@sacredhill.com

Crossroads winemaker Miles Dinneen was honoured to be acknowledged for his Syrah at the 2014 International Wine Challenge.

Matariki Wines celebrates new 'ultra premium' beginning MATARIKI Wines has announced its return to the market with the launch of its ultra-premium 2009 wines. The Hawke’s Bay company is now under the ownership of Taurus Wine Group Limited, but remains under the stewardship of chairman and winemaker John O’Connor. Matariki has marked its new beginning with the release of its flagship red blend, Quintology and single varietal range Les Filles, both from the 2009 vintage.

Launching the wines was particularly satisfying for the O’Connor family and the Matariki team. “The past two years have been extremely difficult after investors failed to fulfil their partnership agreement and the old company was placed in receivership in 2012,” O’Connor said. “With adversity comes strength and our passion remains to produce world-class red wine that will continue in the Matariki tradition and be loved by drinkers world-wide.

“We have some great wines and vintages maturing and will continue to let these develop before releasing them into the market.” He said exporting remained the company’s focus and during the past few months it has sent six containers of ultrapremium red wine to China. Contact: John O’Connor P: 64 021 585 811 E: john@tauruswines.co.nz

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Better solutions for better ID, better inspection, better costs Proper product identification and inspection is a key part of cutting costs and adding value in winery businesses. That was the message Matt Nichol from Matthews Australasia delivered at the recent Winery Engineering Association conference WineEng 2014. HAVING an eye-catching label is important in marketing wine — but so is having proper coding, as Matt Nichol pointed out at the Winery Engineering Association conference, WineEng 2014, at McLaren Vale in June. Nichol, from product identification and automatic data capture specialist Matthews Australasia, told delegates while a label may have initial shelf appeal, the wine may not even reach the shelf without proper traceability coding. “Identifying products by their lot or batch number, and with barcodes, allows them to be traced through the supply chain,” says Nichol, a national key account manager and Matthews’ product manager for laser technology. “And that’s important on two fronts,” he says. “Firstly, it’s a legal requirement from Food Standards Australia New Zealand — or FSANZ — that food and beverage businesses can provide information about their products, and where the ingredients came from — including on request if FSANZ asks. “And secondly, the majority of wine today is sold via retailers. Most are either supermarkets or affiliated with supermarket chains, but whether it’s these large retailers, or the small independents, they don’t accept products without proper coding. “But even product sold at the cellar door still needs proper product identification. “Why? Traceability is one of the major reasons. “Coming back to FSANZ again, updates to the legislation in 2012 said traceability in the Australian food and beverage sector should enable businesses to identify the source of all inputs one step forwards or backwards at any point in the supply chain.

22 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Permanent record: All wine bottles need proper traceability coding. This one has been marked with a laser, creating a discrete, legible and permanent mark. “Reliable inspection”, such as with a vision system, automatically ensures coding is present and correct — among a host of other parameters.

“It doesn’t matter whether those inputs are raw materials, additives, any other ingredients or packaging. Traceability enables a winery – or any other business – to target the particular product involved if there’s a safety problem. This minimises any disruption to trade and reduces any potential public health risks.”

COMPLIANCE MANAGEMENT Nichol says compliance is vital, which means all records should have a means of identification, so dates, batches and lot codes can be readily traced in the event of a product recall or regulatory audit. He says winemakers should change batch codes frequently – at least daily – to facilitate trace-back for product recall. Where the batch code involves the date, carefully check it for accuracy and legibility during the production run. This can also be done automatically with vision inspection systems.

RELIABLE ID Reliable identification has three elements: it’s consistent, of high quality and is verified. “Consistency is when every product is marked, accurately and correctly in the factory,” Nichol says. www.winebiz.com.au

“High quality naturally refers to the code’s quality, that it lasts though the supply chain and will scan every time,” he says. “While verified means that every code is checked and meets your customers’ requirements.”

PRODUCT ID Firstly, what are your product identification requirements? These begin with branding or ‘primary’ labelling and/or coding, then marking the individual product for traceability through the supply chain (say with barcodes) and legal requirements (such as batch or lot codes). With primary coding, lasers mark bottles for a discrete, but legible, permanent mark, but inkjet on labels is also an option. “Winemakers could also consider QR codes to really connect with consumers, and get some good interaction, while 2D codes are very useful for counterfeit protection,” Nichol adds. “Carton, or ‘secondary’, labelling is critical for managing your supply chain and making it efficient. “Retailers usually have pretty strict requirements and guidelines, so talk to these immediate customers as well,” he says. July 2014 – Issue 606

“If you export, then make yourself aware of the importing country’s requirements plus any export requirements Australia has.” The third level of coding is pallet labelling. “And this,” says Nichol, “is where lots of supply chain problems occur. “The most common pallet label ‘fails’ according to major retailers are: the label position is incorrect or there is no label, the SSCC – the Serial Shipping Container Code – is duplicated or doesn’t match or has already been used in past 12 months, the label is damaged or won’t scan, or it’s hiding under stretch wrap, or it’s only on one side of the pallet, or the product label is incorrect. “Now that’s a fairly hefty list,” he says. “So how can you fix this? Firstly, you must know the standards. Secondly, use the right technology. Thirdly, test and check your system, and the labels and codes it produces. Maintain your system, if you don’t, it won’t stay trouble-free. “And lastly, maintain your data integrity.”

CHOOSE THE BEST TECHNOLOGY

Also consider employee training, and what sort of support does the vendor offer? Then, take into consideration any requirements in your supply chain. “Winemakers have a range of technology options to code products: continuous inkjet, laser, printing-and-applying labels (with label printer applicators or LPAs) or applying pre-printed labels (with label applicators or LAs),” Nichol says. “The best way to choose one is to be guided by your products’ presentation, each technology’s total cost of ownership and what sort of flexibility you want,” he says. “For instance with presentation, how important is the product appearance? Do you need shelf-ready packaging? And how permanent do you need the code to be? “Sometimes people can just look at the initial cost of equipment. But don’t, instead look at the total cost of owning it. “By this, I mean: consider all the running costs, as well as the capital outlay. What about the maintenance costs? The servicing costs? “Then think about how flexible you need the equipment to be: do you have to code or label lots of different sizes or shapes? Do you need to ramp-up throughput?

Nichol also had some tips for winemakers when thinking about coding equipment. He says you must think about what you’re printing, what you’re printing on, your line speed, your factory environment, your future plans and your budget.

Interest builds for new-look WineTech 2015 THERE has been a positive response to the new format for WineTech 2015 in Adelaide according to Wine Industry Suppliers Australia (WISA) executive officer Matthew Moate, with more than half the exhibition space already booked. WineTech 2015 will be staged at the Adelaide Showgrounds on July 14-16. Moate says the standalone event will include a trade exhibition and seminar and workshop program. “WineTech 2015 will be a whole-of-industry event,” Moate says. “It will provide the best opportunities for decision makers in the industry to meet, see, demonstrate, test, and learn from each other,” he says. “It will also showcase the world-class standards of products and services which support the industry, the vision and innovation of our members, and the quality of our wine for domestic and international consumption. “Indeed, WineTech will help shape the future of an industry directly employing more than 22,000 Australians supplying a domestic market with sales totalling $2.3 billion and an export market now the fourth largest in the world by volume.” Moate says the fact more than half the display space is booked more than a year ahead of the event is a powerful indication of interest and support for the standalone concept. He says it will provide the best opportunities for suppliers and customers to engage directly and to compare products and services in one, expansive location. For more information, go to www.KJEX.com.au or telephone (08) 8177 1499. Contact: Matthew Moate P: 61 (0)409 783 221 E: eo@wisa.org.au July 2014 – Issue 606

The Rutherglen Agricultural Society Inc. in conjunction with The Winemakers of Rutherglen present the

126th Annual Rutherglen Wine Show Incorporating

The Australian Fortified Wine Show September 18th - 26th 2014 Sponsored by SPECIALTY PRESS ALBURY Established 1910

Closing Date

Presentation of Awards Dinner

15th August 2014

Thursday 25th September 7.00pm. $150.00 pp inclusive. (Incl. GST)

Wine Delivery Closing Date 9th September 2014

Special Awards Red and White Wine of Show Awards & Best barrel matured Wine NE Region Vic. Sponsored by Seguin Moreau Aust. Best Fortified Wine of Show Award Sponsored by Vinocor

Judging 18th to 23rd September 2014

Exhibitors Tasting Friday 26th September 9am -1pm Strictly Exhibitors Only

Public Tasting Friday 26th September 6.30pm - 10pm. $55.00 pp (Incl. GST) (Includes Glass, Results Book and Finger Food)

Wine Show Chairman Mr Chris Pfeiffer (02) 6033 2805

Further inquiries: Show Schedule and Entry Form available from Secretary/Manager: Mr Mark Eltringham PO Box 106 Rutherglen 3685 Ph: 02 6032 8044 Fax: 02 6032 9388 Or can be downloaded from our website: www.rutherglenwineshow.com.au Email: wineagshow@westnet.com.au

www.winebiz.com.au

Grapegrower & Winemaker

news “Don’t just think about your immediate needs; think about your future linecapacity considerations.”

RELIABLE INSPECTION Matthews Australasia is a product identification and automatic data capture specialist. However, the 38-year-old family-owned business is also heavily involved in developing inspection systems. “Inspection,” Nichol says, “is key to improving production methods, reducing waste and increasing efficiency. “Reliable inspection is a must for winemakers serious about making the most of resources and being competitive.” So what is it? “Reliable inspection is consistent – it checks every product. It takes action – if the product is not within tolerance, it either automatically stops the line or rejects the product – and it’s all about capturing quality data. “For instance, it will show you an analysis of your rejected product, such as 40 per cent were due to the front label not being placed straight, which is information you can then use immediately to fix the problem. “Some people can be overwhelmed by automated inspection processes, but we approach it like this. “Firstly, what is the business’ biggest quality issue? "Then, which issues can automated inspection solve? "After that, we look at what the critical issue is that the business has to have resolved, and what would be nice to resolve? "From drilling down like that, we get the base solution that particular business needs.”

TYPES OF VISION TECHNOLOGY Nichol covered three types of vision technology in his presentation: • Vision systems: this is the basic solution, giving a pass or fail, they have few tools and cover simple applications; typical costs are up to $8000. • Smart cameras: these have faster cameras, with more flexibility and can do more complex inspections; typically costing up to $15,000. • Vision systems, also called machine vision systems: these PLC-based systems are fully customised and system dependent; their typical base price is around $20,000.

WHAT TYPE OF ‘QUALITY’ DO YOU WANT? “There are two types of quality checks:

24 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Laser sharp: Carton (or “secondary”) coding is critical for managing your supply chain and making it efficient. This carton is marked with laser coding, allowing the winemaker to use generic boxes to keep costs low. Laser coding is crisp, easy to read and indelible.

Reliable inspection is a must for winemakers serious about making the most of resources and being competitive quality control and quality assurance,” Nichol says. “Of course, it’s completely up to each business what they use, but here is our view, from what we’ve seen in nearly 40 years of helping businesses improve their processes: “Quality control – QC – is the traditional approach. It detects defective output. “Quality assurance – QA – is the proactive ‘lean’ approach. It minimises the chance your output will be substandard and is all about process design. “In our view, the scale tips in favour of using QA as a guide to reducing waste, increasing efficiency and improving your production methods overall.”

ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES Nichol says coding and labelling are all about compliance and supply chain efficiencies, but they can be so much more. “Matthews specialises in helping businesses have the right coding, labelling, automatic data capture and inspection systems, so that they comply with legal requirements and the www.winebiz.com.au

needs of their supply chain,” he says. “However, we have always advocated that businesses should make sure these systems work for them and supply business intelligence. “The old ‘slap on a code and ship the product’ is just a cost. "We believe when integrated with your other business systems, your coding and labelling systems will enhance your productivity. “Businesses can gain great efficiencies by automating their processes. Using simple inspection systems – such as check-weigh and vision – vastly helps with product quality.” Nichol says it’s also important to define your application well, to save you money in the future; businesses should work with the vendor to help them through this. “Also, always consider the total cost of ownership, not just the capital cost, and finally, work with your customers, to ensure all their requirements are met.” Contact: Devna Dayal P: 1300 CODING or 0402 331 073 E: ddayal@matthews.com.au

July 2014 – Issue 606

Your Vineyard Your Voice Sponsored by

The Newsletter of Wine Grape Growers Australia

July 2014

An Exciting Time For WGGA As Wine Grape Growers Australia launches its 201415 membership drive, and a call for new members, the organisation is reflecting on how it is more than ever important for the sustainability of the association to increase its membership base. WGGA relies on membership subscription for funds. Executive Director, Lawrie Stanford explains, “WGGA has grown and taken on many important projects that benefit winegrape growers throughout Australia, and we are at the point where we need to make sure we have the funds to continue resourcing them”.

In addition, those who sign up before the 30 September 2014 will receive: • 50% discount on subscriptions to Grapegrower & Winemaker magazine • 30% off selected books from the Winetitles Bookstore • 50% discount on a winejobs.com.au posting PLUS, all members will go into the draw to win either a $100 Winetitles Bookstore Voucher or a WGGA Umbrella!

With the assistance of the existing membership WGGA has been able to achieve numerous goals set for the 2013-14 period including that it:

Your Vineyard Your Voice

• laid the foundations for national viticulture biosecurity arrangements, • conducted direct negotiations with Chinese authorities on MRL’s for Phos Acid residues in wine imports, • created and promoted a WGGA Wine Tax Policy for the benefit of growers, • promoted the benefits of changes in wine company to grower commercial practices, • facilitated integrated thinking with the WFA on common grower/winemaker interests, • created avenues for younger growers to have input into national issues, and • demanded reforms to the Code of Conduct.

Do you care about the future of winegrape growing? With your support we: • Improve market conditions for winegrapes • Provide a national grower voice in industry debates • Lobby the commonwealth government • Facilitate industry biosecurity arrangements • Provide services to help run your vineyard more effectively.

Join now!

The WGGA Executive are excited to see that the organisation has been rapidly gaining credibility and the industry is sitting up and taking notice. According to, Lawrie, “It has been hard work, but we have some traction, so it’s a positive, exciting time for us. With continuing support we will be able to expand on our achievements in 2014-15”. WGGA offers the following benefits to it grapegrowing members: • Direct access to WGGA executive members • The right the influence grower policy • Access to Members’ Only information on the WGGA website • Advanced copies of our newsletter and e-Alerts

Visit www.wgga.com.au or phone 08 8133 4400

WGGA has a membership category for everyone (not limited to winegrape growers), each with its own additional membership benefits. Visit our website at www.wgga.com.au to learn more about which category best suits you and how you can join today. Remember, it’s your vineyard and it’s your voice that will make the difference in seeing the winegrape industry be what we want it to be. Let WGGA help you be heard!

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WGGA News

WGGA’s program to improve grower returns The article ‘Winegrape discontent – why so virulent now?’ in the May 2014 United Grower, generated feedback some supportive, some not so. An ‘unsupportive’ response, from a grower as it was, was resigned to the practices for which WGGA is advocating reform and asked the rhetorical question “why should grape growers be given special treatment by the winery’s (sic)”. It is worth pointing out that WGGA is attempting to improve the commercial environment in the industry, for growers but not just this, for everyone in the industry. WGGA is about creating systems and safeguards to raise the standards of commercial practices, and to prevent uncommercial practices, that will in turn raise the standard of business done and the rewards available to everyone in the industry. Stated simply, WGGA advocates that a good deal is one where both parties win. There are different forms commercial practices needing reform. The extreme, and thankfully infrequent behavior that is rejected by the majority of operators, is ‘unconscionable behaviour’. This type of behaviour tends to be addressed in the regions where business-to-business dealings are more visible than at the national level. The other is that which WGGA tends to deal with. It is the more frequent behaviours and practices that occur, not out of malice or ill-intent, but because ‘it is the way we have always done it’ but it hasn’t been called to account. There are many practices that WGGA has identified that fall into this category and the organization intends to call them into account. It appeals to all industry members of goodwill, or with the interest of the whole-of-industry at heart, to be a part of the debate. There are several direct ways WGGA is dealing with the issue of commercial practices. Reforming the Code of Conduct The WFA has acknowledged that failure for the targeted number of wine companies becoming signatories in the four to five years of the Code’s existence, is unsatisfactory. The combined WFA/WGGA Code Management Committee is therefore considering the ways and means of making the Code more meaningful and effective. Subjects being considered in this process include: the option of moving to a mandatory code, refining terms in the existing Code, active promotion of the Code, education in the form of templates (eg of a Code-compliant contract) and guidelines, audits of signatories and the form and usefulness (or otherwise) of indicative prices. Raising the standard of commercial practices in the industry As referred to at the beginning of this article, many accepted practices in the industry lead to poor outcomes rather than an effective market that is profitable and sustainable for all. Good practices, (as opposed to the loose and sometimes unreasonable practices that often prevail), will create the ‘market signals’ that will allow the ‘market to sort it’ - concepts we are familiar with, but all too often are not practiced. The practices in question have been identified by WGGA and can be seen at http://wgga.com.au/archives/6771. They are grouped under four headings: the vineyard investment dynamic, traditional winegrape price determination practices that pervert

market signals, traditional terms of trade for winegrape sales, and constrained business decision-making by growers. WGGA has sought the assistance of the National Office of Small Business to assess, advise and to conduct a conversation with wine companies on these matters. Desparately seeking supply and demand balance The WGGA Annual Operating Plan places this item at the top of its list of priorities in 2014-15. Supply/demand balance is a big challenge and a solution has clearly proved elusive so far. Through the Expert Review in 2013, WGGA gained agreement with the WFA that an understanding of the drivers behind the intractability of the imbalance needed to be understood. After all, what you don’t know, you can’t fix. The case for funds to conduct research that will go beyond people’s favourite theories is being prepared by the two organisations. Providing information for effective decision-making is also being scoped out by WGGA and it is gratifying to note that in the latter part of 2013 – growers will be well-served by a number of conferences that will contribute to this goal. Finally, WGGA will continue to do all it can to facilitate the creation of the Grape and Wine Data Base which will re-establish a national viticulture statistics collection that will replace the now defunct ABS Vineyard Survey. See more elsewhere in this newsletter. Other All of WGGA’s programs exist to improve the commercial well-being of growers, albeit that the remainder are a more indirect attack on the topic. For example: Phos Acid MRL negotiations (reducing costs), wine tax advocacy (responsible social contributions by the industry), biosecurity (managing financial risk) and so on.

The Australian Grape and Wine Authority This newsletter will be read in a new and important phase of the Australian wine sector’s development. A whole-of-value chain statutory service body, the Australian Grape and Wine Authority, or AGWA, will be in place and will be overseeing a more unified strategic approach to the separate disciplines of research and marketing. At the time of writing, in early June, it was of concern that neither the Chair nor Directors had been appointed and had therefore started planning for the commencement date of 1 July 2014. Nevertheless, the management and staff of the two merging bodies are to be congratulated on their diligence and dedication to the transition process that has been quietly happening in the background. They will have ensured that the transition will be seamless as possible. The new Chair and Board will be welcomed by WGGA and they, together with the staff of the new organisation, carry the very best of WGGA’s wishes for success in fulfilling the hope industry has for wisdom and support for the industry to meet the continuing challenges it faces.

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WGGA News

The priorities for the organisation’s Strategic Pillars leaves ‘Issues Management’ in top billing and a drilldown into the most important issues within this Pillar, is illustrated in the associated graphic. Good progress was made in last year’s number one priority, building industry’s arrangements for biosecurity assurance and consolidating this work takes the highest priority in 2014-15. There are two primary tasks. First, to fulfill WGGA’s obligations under the Emergency Plant Pest Response Deed to be proactive in preventing, and active in responding to, potential pest and disease incursions from outside Australia. Second, to progress completion of business plan that will ensure long-term, sustainable

1 2 3 4 5

1.1 Biosecurity and vine health

Critical issues management

STRATEGIC PILLARS

Setting the priorities for WGGA action in 2014-15 commenced in April this year and by the time this newsletter is circulating, implementation will be underway.

Building organisational capacity

High

Policy and advocacy

1.2 Market access for winegrapes 1.3 Knowledge and capacity development 1.4 Research, Development & Extension

Engaging stakeholders

1.5 Supply and demand balance

Cultivating relationships

Medium

Corporate governance

No action in 2014-15 on remaining issues

arrangements are in place for viticulture biosecurity. Improving the ability and conditions of winegrape access to the market continues to rate highly in WGGA’s priorities. This includes work on the Code with winemakers and raising the standard of commercial practices in the industry. Continuing projects under this heading also aim to lower grower costs. Negotiations of Phos Acid MRLs in China will be wrapped up and a nationally acceptable delivery docket is being planned.

1.6 Wine tax

ISSUE MANAGEMENT Delivery for Growers

WGGA priorities set for 2014-15

Knowledge and Capacity Development has been lifted higher in the priorities. Key to this item is information to assist grower decision-making. Building organisational capacity is an unceasing need and will be required if WGGA is to capitalize on its growing credibility and influence. For the full WGGA 2014-15 Annual Operating Plan go to the WGGA website.

This is serious The associated figure illustrates that the standard of information available on Australian winegrape supply has been eroded to the point that, as of harvest 2013, the industry has no official, national statistics on viticulture. It is fair to say the industry has lost the status of having a worldbenchmark standard in such data. Rather, it goes into the future blind. The figure illustrates just some of the gaps, at the highest

notby having Australian of S Statistics A glevel, ap is of le* the athe bsence of a VBureau ineyard urvey …(ABS)

150 135 120 105 90 75 60 45 30 15 0

Bearing area (shaded background) hectares ‘000

2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0

90 -‐91 91-‐92 92-‐93 93-‐94 94-‐95 95-‐96 96-‐97 97-‐98 98-‐99 99-‐00 00-‐01 01-‐02 02-‐03 03-‐04 04-‐05 05-‐06 06-‐07 07-‐08 08-‐09 09-‐10 10-‐11 11-‐12 12-‐13 13-‐14 14-‐15 15-‐16 16-‐17

Produc3on (bars) tonnes ‘000

Vineyard Survey to provide this data.

Bearing Area

Red

White

The last Vineyard Survey was conducted in 2011-12 after a gap year in 2010-11, and there is no provision at this time for the collection to occur again. As a consequence, industry does not have national statistics on planting, removals, or tonnages produced. Also missing is an indication of the tonnages left hanging or dropped at harvest. The latter has been consistently collected since this information was introduced in 2004-05. Anecdotes that there were fewer tonnages left out there in 2014, cannot be confirmed. If it could, a heartening indicator that things were improving would exist. Also missing is all of the above by region and variety. Back in 2009, the GWRDC decided not to fund the Vineyard Survey and the Wine Australia Corporation (then AWBC) volunteered to test the idea that industry could own the collection itself rather than outsource it to the ABS. The fact that the former was decided, and the latter hasn't occurred, is regrettable in WGGA's view. So why are the years 2012-13 to 2016-17 blank? The reason is that it might take that long to replace these statistics. That’s about the only Australian viticulture forecast that can be made at this time.

Tonnages le=

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WGGA News

What membership category best suits you GENERAL MEMBERShIP

ASSOCIATE MEMBERShIP

Open to all Australian winegrape growers, or winemakers who grow grapes.

Open to any person or entity with an interest in winegrape growing.

Note that SA growers who pay into the state levy do not have a joining fee because a part of the levy is received by WGGA. Please still register with us so the membership benefits can be delivered.

Associate members also receive recognition of their support for growers in all WGGA communications, including a profile on the WGGA website.

STUDENT MEMBERShIP

AFFILIATE MEMBERShIP Open to all State and Regional grapegrower and/ or winemaker associations and is an excellent way for associations to ensure national representation of local growers who may not take out individual membership. For 2014-15, WGGA is extending its Affiliate Membership to include the association’s members also. This means that the direct benefits of General Members will be awarded to the Affiliate Member’s grower members, in exchange for their contact details.

Open to any student of viticulture, winemaking, wine marketing or wine business. Student members interested in grower networking or leadership can also apply to become a part of the Decision Support Network. Visit our website at www.wgga.com.au to view all membership benefits and this year’s special offers! You can also join thenand-there via our new Online Membership Application Form.

Is growing overseas demand an opportunity for Australia’s oversupply of mid-range wines? Analysis of events in world wine markets over the past decade, points to potential opportunities opening up on world markets for Australian winegrape growers. The opportunity arises out of both demand- and supply-side events and it is suggested in a paper produced by WGGA, that a major part of the opportunity is for mid-range wines that draw on lower-C, D and E-grade fruit. A detailed examination of the drivers of this opportunity leads to questions about what it would take for Australian wine growers to be able to exploit the identified opportunity. The analysis of international demand for wine over the last decade demonstrates increased opportunity through growth in world wine consumption. While the Global Financial Crisis (GFC) is likely to have wound back this growth, it did not wind it back altogether.

The analysis provided in the paper highlights the growth of bulk wine shipments of new world wine that has accompanied the identified growth in world demand. It is suggested that this form of trade should be viewed as a structural change in demand and a new opportunity, rather than just the opportunistic trade it used to be for new world producers. Key drivers of bulk wine trade include greater accessibility of wine to a wider demographic over a wider geographic spread, the evolving practice of bottling proprietary-branded wine in-market as opposed to the place of processing, and two players in the marketplace that are exerting a greater influence on market fortunes – retailers and their own-brands, and consolidators of bulk wine for global distribution. Although qualified by the challenge of poor data quality, supply analysis

suggests that over the last decade world wine inventory has wound back to some extent thereby providing more opportunity (in addition to the growing demand already noted). The paper notes that a growth in opportunity for bulk wine trade of mid-range wines matches Australia’s oversupplied wines. hence, is it a solution to Australia’s oversupply? There are some positives in Australia’s circumstances that encourage the belief it can successfully tap into the growing world opportunity in bulk-traded, midrange wines. however, as a high-cost producing nation, it is not competitive on price. To profitably access the identified opportunity there will need to be an improvement in competitiveness. To view the full paper, got to www.wgga.com.au

grapegrowing

Benchmarking Shiraz production in Victoria This presentation by Erika Winter (GrapeLinks) and Stephen Lowe (Stony Creek Vineyard) at the recent Shiraz Symposium in Melbourne summarises score systems and results helping Shiraz growers to achieve prime fruit quality.

At a glance: • Benchmarking initially took stock of site and management conditions of 30 vineyards in north east and western Victoria. • The project focused on measurements of vine balance, soil water and bunch zone temperature, using affordable technology. • A detailed scoring system was developed by GrapeLinks. • Important benchmarks were: 10-15cm2 leaf area per gram of fruit on each shoot, irrigation in response to measured soil water at the rootzone, and east-open westshaded canopies resulting in high amounts of time in the beneficial bracket of 15-35C. • Links between such growing practices and grape chemistry, BSA and wine quality have been demonstrated for 26 Shiraz vineyards over five years and for more varieties over further five years.

IN view of the increasingly morevariable climate and the new demands on top quality fruit it was of paramount importance the Grape and Wine Research Development Corporation (GWRDC) initiated a long and wide benchmarking of Shiraz vineyards throughout Victoria. Starting in season 2004/05 all sites used the same benchmarking tools that were feasible, affordable and targeted the main physiological “switches” which can determine whether a Shiraz crop can reach its maximum potential for the site (1). As of 2010, a Farm Ready grant extended the study to other varieties and the same methods are still applied to Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir, July 2014 – Issue 606

An on-farm demonstration with the benchmarking group from the King Valley FarmReady trial is pictured during the 2011 assessment program.

Macedon Ranges Chardonnay and King Valley Sangiovese. It could be assumed growers had taken care of basic practices such as pest and disease management, nutrition etc. as such best practice had been extended in the region. However not all growers had attended the RTP course Winegrape Quality Management (2), which delivered the basic research findings used for the newly designed benchmarking scoresheets. The GrapeLinks scoring system encompassed vine assessments at veraison, counting (on 20 randomly selected shoots) active leaf area, young leaves, actively growing tips, percentage of cane lignification and leaf health and cover over both sides of the bunch zone. This enabled growers to check whether their vines were still in the cytokinin governed growing phase (Fig. 1), which may be unwantedly prolonged by too much rain, irrigation or nutrition. It also recorded if they had timely entered the ripening phase visible by cane lignification which is initiated by Auxin, from healthy leaves (4) and drying www.winebiz.com.au

out roots (5) as occurring pre-veraison in the grapevine’s wild habitat. Growing conditions in the period six weeks pre-veraison to shortly after veraison has a large bearing on the production of grape quality substances such as colour, phenolics and aroma. Veraison is a point in time where management practice can still influence grape quality by providing more or less leaves and checking irrigation. The leaf cover over the front and back of the bunch zone and the appropriateness of active leaf area can be definitively assessed pre-harvest with the knowledge of average bunch-weights and -numbers per shoot (5). For Shiraz, 10-15cm2 active leaf area has been shown to be required per gram of fruit on that shoot. Past research had focused on sugar loading at various vine balance values but this is not a problem factor in Australian Shiraz growing regions except in vineyards with high heat loads (which slows sugar loading) as demonstrated in north east Victorian Shiraz in three successive years. Grapegrower & Winemaker

grapegrowing

Figure 1: Hormonal predominance during the growth cycle of the grapevine from flowering to harvest. After Blouin and Guimberteau.

On the contrary, during the ripening phase often the development of grape sugar content is faster than the ripening of phenolics and the development of aromas. An early start into the ABA dominated period, by preventing over-irrigation and over-exposure (ABA can be light

degraded) may harmonise the ripening processes. After veraison malic acid and methoxypyrazine (herbaceous aroma) decline depends on the water and nutrient content of the soil more than on grape exposure (7). In contrast, colour and some aromas

are exposure sensitive and easily heat degraded (8). Therefore the second important focus of the benchmarking studies was bunch zone temperature measurements, initially from veraison to harvest but since 2009 expanded to the Decemberto-veraison period as many heatwaves happen before veraison. Inexpensive electronic data loggers were inserted in each vineyard in the bunch zone and measured the temperature every hour. They were proven to adequately mimic the bunch temperatures when in a canopy with differential foliage management (open to the east/south and leaf covered to the west/north) (9). In 2004/05 – the first year of benchmarking – a large diversity of canopies was recorded and enlargements of the temperature curves could show excessive bunch zone exposure or shading by time of day. Most grapes deliver best results when they spend a maximum amount of time between 15C and 35C (10).

Location

Anthocyanins (mg/g berry FW)

Total Phenolics (mg/g berry FW)

Bunch heat loads Morning

Bunch heat loads Afternoon

Leaf layers East or south

Leaf layers West or north

Average Degree h between 15ºC and 35ºC

1.4

4.6

1.5

2.1

582

Wine score

1.7

7.5

0.8

1.4

448

14.5

1.9

5.3

0.8

3.1

585

16.5

1.6

4.4

1.8

0.9

399

17.0

1.4

6.4

2.2

2.1

530

14.5

1.2

4.1

2.7

3.5

14.0

1.7

5.7

1.2

1.6

600

16.5

1.6

6.6

1.6

1.9

566

17.0

1.6

8.3

0.7

1.7

608

16.0

10A

1.8

6.3

0.6

3.1

519

15.5

11A

1.6

5.2

1.5

2.5

581

12B

1.8

5.0

0.9

1.4

501

15.5

13G

2.5

12.5

1.0

1.2

590

15.0

14K

1.6

3.1

0.8

3.2

417

15R

1.5

4.4

2.8

1.6

614

16R

1.9

11.1

1.7

0.9

540

14.5

17G

2.0

5.0

1.2

1.7

600

16.0

18G

1.8

6.5

1.2

1.8

604

19B

1.8

5.5

0.8

1.4

523

15.0

20A

2.1

7.1

1.8

1.5

567

15.0

21B

2.3

8.1

1.5

1.3

569

14.0

22G

1.2

5.1

2.9

0.6

563

14.0

23K

1.8

5.4

1.5

2.2

536

16.5

24R

1.2

4.2

2.2

607

25K

2.0

7.5

1.2

2.1

551

26G

1.5

4.6

1.2

2.7

580

14.5

Figure 2: Grape colour, phenolics, bunch exposure, leaf cover, average degree hours in the beneficial bracket and wine score of 6 month old wines, NE Victoria 2006 (A= Alpine Valley, B= Beechworth, G=Glenrowan, K= King Valley, R= Rutherglen, O= other), colour codes for wine scores are red for hot, blue for cold.

30 Grapegrower & Winemaker

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July 2014 – Issue 606

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grapegrowing The degree hours spent in this beneficial bracket were calculated from the temperature logger data and gave a clear indication for fruit quality potential. Twenty bunches from each of the 26 Shiraz vineyards were analysed by Vintessential Laboratories for Brix, TA, pH, colour and phenolics and berry sensory assessment (11) was carried out by the field coordinator Stephen Lowe. This was continued through three very different seasons (2005-cool, 2006hot, 2007-very hot). Uptake of new management practices were noted in many of the vineyards all the way to the wines, which were assessed by Nick Bulleid MW and a local winemaker in the presence of the group members. The large number of Shiraz vineyards enabled a pattern to be recognised. Either overshaded or afternoon exposed bunchzones, expressed as lower average degree hours in the beneficial bracket, were often accompanied by low grape and wine quality (Fig. 2). This was confirmed in the following years, in which seed ripening under various soil water and bunch zone temperature conditions was also investigated, with results confirming the known fact that excessive soil water and extreme bunch temperatures had a detrimental effect on phenolic maturity. As of 2010, on-farm demonstration trials were conducted with a DAF grant to demonstrate side by side the beneficial effect of differential canopy management on grape quality (12) and meetings were held regularly. Exposure to the morning sun is very important for the formation of colour and norisoprenoid based Shiraz aromas.

With the increasing numbers of heatwaves predicted for Victorian vineyards heat load protection by foliage will be crucial. Interestingly, western leaf cover also created lower degree hours below 15C by blocking excessive cold airflow, thus differential canopy management also was beneficial in the cold season of 2011. It will be worthwhile to further investigate the effect of undervine vegetation (13) mulch or biochar (14) on ameliorating bunch zone and soil temperatures. With well-managed leaf health and nutrition, and attention to good vine balance, monitored modern irrigation management and with targeted bunch exposure, a large number of Victorian Shiraz vineyards could join again in an effort to undertake agri-climatic fingerprinting involving multivariate analysis to more quantitatively demonstrate the peculiarities and potentials of specific sites of high quality Victorian Shiraz.

(6) Winter, E. and Whiting, J. (2004). Using leaf area to crop weight to determine vine balance. Australian Viticulture 8, pp 70-73. (7) Peyrot des Gachons C., van Leeuwen C., Tominaga T., Soyer J.-P., Gaudillere J.-P. and Dubourdieu D., (2005). The influence of water and nitrogen deficit on fruit ripening and aroma potential of Vitis vinifera L. cv Sauvignon blanc in field conditions. J. Sci. Food Agric., 85, 1, 73-85. (8) Spayd, S.E., Tarara J.M., Mee, D.L. and Ferguson, J.C. (2002). Separation of sunlight and temperature effects on the composition of Vitis vinifera cv Merlot berries. Am. J. Enol. Vitic. 53 (3) 171-182. (9) Winter, E. and Boysen, B. (2010). Comparison of bunchzone and bunch temperatures in cool climate Pinot noir and Chardonnay. The Australian and New Zealand Grapegrower and Winemaker Annual Tech. Issue, 37-41. (10) Bergquist, J., Dokoozlian, N. and Ebisuda, N. (2001). Sunlight exposure and temperature effects on berry growth and compositions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache in the Central San Joaquin Valley. Am. J. Enol. Vitic. 52, 1-7. (11) Winter, E. Whiting, J. and Rousseau, J. (2004) Winegrape Berry Sensory Assessment in Australia. Winetitles, Adelaide. (12) Winter E. and Lowe, S. (2010) Seed ripening in Merlot and Shiraz vineyards in north- east Victoria. Australian Viticulture Nov./Dec. issue 27-30. (13) Winter, E. and Lowe, S. (2011). Canopy management offers solutions to variable climate. The Australian & New Zealand Grapegrower & Winemaker 573, 38-41.

Contact: Erika Winter P: 0417355851 E: e.winter@bigpond.net.au

References:

(1) Winter, E. and Lowe, S. (2009). Benchmarking King Valley Shiraz from 2005 to 2008. Australian Viticulture Jan. /Feb. 2009 pp 63-66. (2) Winter, E. (2001). Research to Practice Winegrape Quality Manangement. CRCV Adelaide. (3) Blouin, J. and Guimberteau, G. (2000) Maturation et Maturité des Raisins, Edition Ferret. (4) Duering, H., Alleweldt, G. and Koch, R. (1978). Studies on hormonal control of ripening in berries of grapevines. Acta Hort. 80, 397-405. (5) Dry, P.R., Loveys, B.R., Stoll, M., Stewart, D. and McCarthy, M.G. (2000). Partial rootzone drying – an update. The Australian Grapegrower and Winemaker, Annual Technical Issue, 35-39,.

(14) Winter, E. and Lowe, S. (2011b). Undervine management research reveals fruit zone temperature controls. The Australian & New Zealand Grapegrower & Winemaker 574, 37-42.

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July 2014 – Issue 606

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Oxygation of irrigation water boosts vine performance Research trials into the aeration of the irrigation stream have created ‘oxygation’ and Murray Valley Industry development officer Liz Singh writes it is helping unlock significant growth potential via the root zone. RESEARCH being carried out by Central Queensland University has shown the importance of oxygen in the root zone to plant growth, health and yield. The principles they are actioning are a basic part of plant physiology however they are not currently used in viticultural practices in the Murray Valley. Aeration of the irrigation stream is a process that has been termed ‘oxygation’ and is a new innovation in irrigation technologies. Oxygation involves mixing atmospheric air with irrigation water using a venturi and delivering it via a surface or subsurface drip irrigation system. This technology delivers air to the root zone which can assist in root growth, plant, microbe respiration and increase capacity for nutrient and water absorption. The research has even gone so far as to indicate soil amelioration processes are occurring due to the increased presence of air in the soil structure. Research conducted by Dr Robert Murray from the University of Adelaide examining subsoil strength and air filled porosity has illustrated many of the subsoils tested in the Sunraysia district did not meet the 0.1 air-filled porosity required as a minimum for root respiration. The results of this work are summarised in the Figure 1.

Figure 1- Resistance to root penetration versus air-filled porosity

Figure 2- Justin recording the level of oxygen in the irrigation water

34 Grapegrower & Winemaker

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July 2014 – Issue 606

With Venturi

Without Venturi

Near Valve

7.1

5.9

Mid Row

7.1

5.3

End Row

8.1

6.4

Figure 3 - Oxygation results - mg/L dissolved oxygen. Source: Jeremy Giddings, NDW DPI

The resistance to root penetration is plotted against the airfilled porosity (a measure of aeration or oxygen availability to roots) for vineyard subsoils at two different soil moisture levels. Roots can only grow into existing pores or else create new ones; there are few existing pores of sufficient size in these soils so penetration resistance is important. It is generally agreed penetration resistance above 2 MPa can stop root growth and air-filled porosity of 0.1 is a minimum requirement for root respiration. The graph shows only 6 per cent of the subsoils studied (shaded area) are soft enough and sufficiently aerated to permit root growth and function with aeration as the major problem. With soil aeration essential to ensuring vine health and growth, the concept of oxygation may provide big rewards for simple modifications. Murray Valley Winegrowers Inc (MVWI) and the NSW Department of Primary Industries are following closely a venturi system that has been installed by grower Justin Kassulke to put the oxygation theories into viticultural practice (Figure 2). Figure 3 displays the initial results recorded just before Christmas 2013.

The Grape and Wine Research and Development Corporation has provided the funding for the project. Contact: Liz Singh Murray Valley Industry development officer P: 61 3 5021 3911 E: liz@mvwi.com.au

References:

Midmore, D & Bhattarai, S - Oxygation - Optimising delivery and benefits of aerated irrigation water. Centre for Plant and Water Science, CQUNIVERSITY. Murray, R—Tough conditions for vine roots in vineyard subsoils—Murray Valley News & Views 2011

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July 2014 – Issue 606

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The drop out who picked up a stellar career Last year Matthew Fox was crowned New Zealand’s Young Viticulturist of the Year and has been kicking goals ever since. Stephanie Timotheou caught up with the 28-year-old Gisborne boy as part of our Young Guns series and discovered what’s in store for his future as one of the country’s leading viticulturists. MATTHEW Fox was the kind of guy who would do anything to get where he wanted to be. Like most teenagers he loathed school because he was forced to sit indoors six hours a day, five days a week – a viticulturist’s nightmare. In fact he hated it so much that he was asked to leave (to his relief) and went on to study viticulture which he said seemed to suit him “just fine”. It meant he could spend every day doing what he loved without being confined to four walls and a desk. Fox has now been in the industry for nine years but lived and breathed all things wines and vines since the age of 10. As a young’un he began work in the family vineyard to earn a buck or two and soon after fell in love with the art of viticulture. “After I left school I studied a bachelor degree in viticulture and oenology at the Eastern Institute of Technology (EIT) through a correspondence course at Charles Sturt University,” he said.

AROUND THE WORLD LEADS BACK TO FAMILY ESTATE From an irritated schoolboy who couldn’t sit still, his love for viticulture eventually took him across the world completing vintages in WA, Yarra Valley, Canada, Rhone, and several regions throughout New Zealand. And at 28 he has finally found himself where he wanted to be – holding the reins at DW Briant’s Glencoe Vineyards as well as a 2ha block in Patutahi he leased with his wife Kelsey.

36 Grapegrower & Winemaker

A man’s best friend: Matthew Fox with his helper Matilda checking out the vineyard.

“It’s great working for a diverse business because it’s given me a wide range of skills,” he said. “Because viticulture was something I grew to like and eventually grew to love, winemaking naturally followed suit. “What’s the point of growing bloody marvellous grapes if you don’t find out what you can do with them?” Almost a jack of all trades, Fox said he was one step closer to taking on the global wine world now that one of his biggest goals had been achieved.

NEW ZEALAND’S YOUNG VITICULTURIST OF THE YEAR In 2013 Fox was crowned the Moore Stephens Markhams Young Viticulturist of the Year – an award he has to admit he was very pleased with. Coming from a competitive upbringing with the Fox family’s motto being “If you don’t win you’re out of the family”, he was determined to take out the Young Viticulturist of the Year title once and for all. “There was no pressure at all, but relief was one of the many feelings after receiving it,” he said. “I think winning the title justifies my love for viticulture and winemaking but I also think it’s just a start – a great start – but I have to build on that to become a great wine man.” More than 20 viticulturists made the showdown to become last year’s viticulturist of the year with five representing Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay, Nelson, Marlborough and Central Otago competing in the finals at the Romeo Bragato Conference. www.winebiz.com.au

Fox said winning the title has helped him create a network of valuable contacts from around the world and exposed him to new and exciting experiences. In between running two vineyards, developing his own wine brand and having an active role on the Gisborne Winegrowers’ committee, Fox enjoys relaxing at home or exploring the great outdoors. “When work’s not dominating my life, I also enjoy hanging with friends over a couple of wines and taking in the beautiful sights and sounds of Gisborne.” Fox said while winemaking was only romantic from the outside looking in, he’d rather work 12 hours a day doing something he loved than two hours doing “some shitty desk job” he hated for more money.

THE FUTURE OF FOX He’s now focusing his efforts on building a strong brand and in the future aspires to be known as someone who makes top drops in the most sustainable way possible. He also hopes to leave behind a legacy of great wine, as well as sustainable and responsible vineyard practices for many other young guns to follow. “If I achieve all my future endeavours, I’ll be stoked,” he said. “I’m really excited about my future and the future of my brand…watch this space.” Contact: Matthew Fox P: 64 274 632 457 E: mattfox076@gmail.com July 2014 – Issue 606

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Cover crops and vineyard floor temperature One of the main reasons cover crops are grown is to protect the soil from raindrop impact and thereby prevent erosion. But University of Adelaide researchers Cassandra Collins and Chris Penfold ask if it will also impact on soil and canopy temperatures, particularly in relation to frost prevention. FROST can be devastating to vines in some seasons, and cover crops have traditionally been thought to play a role in reducing its incidence and severity in the vineyard. However, the impact of cover crops on frost incidence and severity needs to be understood so that the good (and expensive) work in growing cover crops to improve the soil is not needlessly undone. An excellent electronic extension package that explains the development of frost and mechanisms of passive frost control has been developed by the University of California Cooperative Extension, and can be viewed directly via the web (University of California Department of Land, Air and Water Resources 2010). Another very useful but locally produced resource has been produced by Jones and Wilson (2010).

ICE-NUCLEATING BACTERIA AND FROST SENSITIVITY In order for ice to form on a leaf surface, supercool water and a nucleating substance must both be present to initiate the process. The ice-nucleating material may be mineral (e.g. clay and dust particles) or organic (e.g. bacteria). Lindow (1983) recognised the capacity of ice-nucleating bacteria (Pseudomonas syringae) to determine the frost sensitivity of plants, as in the absence of these bacteria on the leaf surface, plants can be cooled to –7oC for several hours with no apparent damage. In the field, frost sensitivity seems to be more closely correlated with the presence of ice-nucleating bacteria than it is with the presence of mineral nucleating agents, which are inactive at temperatures warmer than –10oC. It therefore seems obvious that reducing the population of ice-nucleating bacteria on the leaf surface should decrease a crop’s susceptibility to frost.

38 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Figure 1: A standing barley cover crop is almost at cordon height, increasing the vines’ susceptibility to a frost event. The rolled barley and clean undervine zone provide the same frost mitigation as discing.

At a glance: • An electronic extension package explaining the development of frost and mechanisms of passive frost control has been developed by the University of California. • In order for ice to form on a leaf surface, supercool water and a nucleating substance must both be present to initiate the process. • Another approach to frost mitigation has involved reducing the levels of ice-nucleating bacteria at their source. • While benefits of living cover were evident on or directly above the soil surface, they did not translate into lower canopy temperatures. It has been shown that both high populations of antagonistic microorganisms and the presence of bacterial inhibitors such as copper, zinc and cationic detergents can significantly reduce ice-nucleating bacteria populations and thus the damage from frost in some situations (Lindow 1983).

FROST MITIGATION EFFECTS OF COVER CROP CHOICE AND MANAGEMENT Another approach to frost mitigation has involved reducing the levels of icenucleating bacteria at their source. Grasses in general produce higher levels of ice-nucleating bacteria than do broadleaf species, which tend to www.winebiz.com.au

have a thick, waxy cuticle (McGourty & Christensen 1998). It was therefore suggested that in frost-prone areas, the use of grasses as cover crops should be avoided so as to reduce the potential for frost to occur. However, recent research trials suggest that targeting ice-nucleating bacteria will not provide reliable reductions in frost incidence or severity (N Scarlett 2011, pers. comm.). This also means that while there may be a higher population of ice-nucleating bacteria associated with grasses, the cover crop composition is unlikely to influence the incidence of frost in the vineyard. This is an important outcome because it means that cover crop selection does not have to be influenced by the likelihood of a frost event at a particular site. Of greater importance is the management of cover crops in those areas that are prone to frost. Mowing the cover crop, then discing or rotary hoeing, followed by rolling to lightly compact the soil, remains common practice in some regions that are frost-prone. This is aimed at using the soil as a heat bank that releases warmth at night to increase air temperatures up to cordon height. However, cultivation of the soil causes soil moisture to evaporate and creates air spaces, which reduce the soil’s capacity to store heat for release in the evening as the temperatures decrease (Donaldson et al. 1993). It is also deleterious to soil structure and leaves the soil exposed over the July 2014 – Issue 606

summer period. Increased levels of dust, and weed invasions following rain are commonly observed in cultivated vineyards. But is cultivation beneficial in frost reduction, compared to simply mowing the mid-row sward? No studies on the impact of vineyard floor management on cordon temperatures have been reported in Australia. However, in the Sonoma and Napa counties of California, Donaldson et al. (1993) investigated the impact on cordon temperatures of three floor management treatments on four vineyards over three years. The vine mid-rows were either kept bare over the late winter/spring period with glyphosate herbicide, disced in spring or mown to 8 cm height. This research showed that cordon temperatures following herbicide application were the same or slightly higher than those measured after cultivation, while the effect of mowing was generally similar to that of the cultivation treatment. A similar conclusion was reached by McCarthy et al. (1992) in their review of literature on the topic. It is therefore recommended that in frost-prone areas, the best practice for vineyard floor management will involve planting the cover crop most suited to the vineyard’s requirements and mowing it low prior to budburst, while leaving the disc in the shed.

Figure 2: Frost on grape leaves. (Photo courtesy Hans Loder)

VINEYARD FLOOR MANAGEMENT AND CANOPY TEMPERATURES Cover crops may be either perennial or annual and consist of either native or exotic species. The robust nature of the native species allows them to survive the harsh Australian summers, providing a perennial option for the hot-dry wine zones. In the hot-wet, warm-wet and cool wine regions, all with growing season rainfall over 300 mm, exotic species

Figure 3: A frost fan in the Niagara region of the US. (Photo courtesy of Hans Loader)

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July 2014 – Issue 606

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Grapegrower & Winemaker

grapegrowing may also provide living soil cover over the summer period. Alternatively, cover crops that have been mown or rolled in spring may also provide a mulching effect and could influence canopy temperatures. To investigate some of the above scenarios and their impact on vine canopy temperatures, Tiny Tag® temperature-sensing data loggers were placed on the ground and on the cordon wire of vines growing in the Barossa and Loxton regions of South Australia during the summer of 2008. In the hot-dry environment of Loxton, creeping saltbush (Atriplex semibaccata) performed superbly as a cover crop, with high biomass production and strong suppression of caltrop (Tribulis terrestris). This living soil cover had a considerable impact on vineyard floor temperatures at ground level (Figure 5). Predictably, the bare soil heated to above 50C more rapidly and stayed above that threshold for much longer than immediately above the saltbush, or in the shade below the plant. While benefits of living cover were evident on or directly above the soil surface, they did not translate into lower canopy temperatures. This was not surprising, given the relatively small plot area compared to the large hot air mass, which would mask any local effects of groundcover. Despite the lack of temperature differences measured in the canopy, providing soil cover over the summer is still important in preventing erosion, maintaining trafficability, reducing dust and providing habitat for beneficial insects for which shade is important. Contact: Cassandra Collins P: 61 8 8313 6813 E: cassandra.collins@adelaide.edu.au

References:

Donaldson DR, Snyder RL, Elmore C & Gallagher S(1993) Weed control influences vineyard minimum temperatures. American Journal of Enology and

Figure 4: A thick mulch derived from a rolled barley cover crop will protect the soil over the summer period without increasing the frost risk in spring, compared to that from a disced mid-row. Viticulture 44: 431–434.

Winetitles: Adelaide.

Figure 5: Vineyard floor temperatures are influenced by soil cover, as shown in this 24-hour period during a heatwave at Loxton, South Australia, March 2008. Jones J & Wilson S (2010) Arming against frost. GWRDC Factsheet, September. Available at http:// www.gwrdc.com.au/webdata/resources/factSheet/ GWR_073_Frost_Fact_Sheet_FINAL.pdf Lindow SE (1983) The role of bacterial ice nucleation in frost injury to plants. Annual Review of Phytopathology 21: 363–384. McCarthy M, Dry PR, Hayes PF & Davidson DM (1992) Soil management and frost control. In Coombe BG & Dry PR (eds), Viticulture. Volume 2: Practices,

McGourty GT & Christensen LP (1998) Cover cropping systems and their management. In Ingels CA, Bugg RL, McGourty GT & Christensen LP (eds), Cover Cropping in Vineyards: A Grower’s Handbook. University of California, Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources: Oakland, Publication 3338. University of California Department of Land, Air and Water Resources (2010) Passive frost protection. Online narrated training unit, available at http://lawr. ucdavis.edu/coop/FrostProtectionPassiveProtection/ index.htm

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Getting a real taste for the Kiwi terroir AS associate professor in oenology and director of the Centre of Viticulture and Oenology Roland Harrison says the industry should be identifying the special vineyard places that will pull the whole wine industry up. Dr Harrison told the New Zealand Herald the local industry is so focused on Sauvignon Blanc he wonders whether it’s missing a trick by not exploring more widely. Roland Harrison And Harrison’s opinion is one worth listening to. Especially as he and his team have been unearthing the secrets of what’s fuelling the original character of New Zealand wine styles by delving deep into the terra incognita under the vines. In a traditional wine nation such as France, grapegrowers have long recognised the strong impact soil and landscapes have on the quality and style of a wine. In the Burgundy region at least 400 different soil types have been identified, with their influence considered so strong that they’re woven into the region’s geographical classifications, which extend right down to single plots for the finest wines. However, this is something New Zealand is only starting to explore, with Lincoln’s investigation of the Canterbury region just one of a handful of studies into its wine-growing land. “Canterbury represents a laboratory in which to explore ideas which underpin the concept of terroir,” Harrison says. “The notion that the personality of a wine can be influenced by site, and especially soil characteristics,” he says. So far the study has uncovered that Canterbury most likely possesses the country’s most diverse soils of any New Zealand wine region. Its findings have been disseminated amongst the local wine community and it is hoped this will help winemakers tailor their winemaking to the site and take full advantage of their specific terroir, which would appear to play an important part in shaping the character of the final wine. “When you taste the wine from the different soils, there are definitely differences between the gravels, clays and limestones,” Harrison explains, following a tasting of wines from the different soils at a recent field day in the region. “For me the Waikari limestone wines’ tannins were silkier. The best aromatics were in wines off the gravels and those from clay had more depth. “In Canterbury, we can produce three distinctive Pinot Noirs from these different soil divisions,” he notes. “We’ve already made our name with distinctive Sauvignon Blanc, but what we need to do now is find the individual pockets of distinction in individual places. “Think of Burgundy, a small area with a huge range of wines, where people will buy from a small vineyard plot a wine of distinction,” he adds. “Distinction is what people are after.” Contact: Roland Harrison P: 64 3 423 0633 E: roland.harrison@lincoln.ac.nz July 2014 – Issue 606

Adjuvants, Part II

VINE TALK

In my last column we began exploring the world of crop adjuvants what they are and what they do. Many products come packaged with their own “in-can” adjuvants; however there will be situations where you will need to make a decision using the different additive options provided on the label. So what criteria should be used in choosing between the additives listed on the label? The two primary factors to consider are how the additives will influence the efficacy (or the result) on the pest or weed, and the other is their relative crop safety. A crop oil concentrate will generally enhance the activity of things like herbicides more than a nonionic surfactant; however, crop oil concentrates can also often increase the potential for crop injury. In situations where weeds are under stress or reaching the maximum size specified on the herbicide label, the higher activity of the crop oil concentrate may be necessary to achieve acceptable control. In a non-selective weed situation such as under tree crops, this might also be acceptable. In a selective herbicide application over the top of a particularly sensitive crop however, it might not be a good choice. The relative margin of crop safety and the vigour of the crop should also be considered when selecting a spray additive. For example, the potential for crop injury may be increased when using crop oils in hot conditions compared with a nonionic surfactant. Crops under stress due to environmental or other factors are also more susceptible to injury, thus a nonionic surfactant (that is less stressful to the crop) is preferable. Tank mix partners will also influence additive selection. Read the label of all products in the tank mix to determine any restrictions regarding additive use, remembering it’s always better to stick to the side of caution. Since the manufacture of additives is not regulated, the number of different products available can be overwhelming. Always buy quality products from reputable agricultural outlets so that you have support if anything goes wrong, after all, there are surfactants and then there are SURFACTANTS! Most of all, be wary of any product that makes exaggerated claims, such as ‘this additive will allow you to reduce product rates.’ There are lots of reputable businesses out there that can help you so don’t hesitate to get advice from your local supplier or agronomist.

Vine Talk is compiled by Scott Mathew, Technical Lead, Syngenta scott.mathew@syngenta.com 0428225597

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Grapegrower & Winemaker

grapegrowing Earlier this year the Limestone Coast Grape and Wine Council (LCGWC) announced its latest project, the 2014 Soil Stewardship Program, which gave four industry professionals the opportunity to study soil-related issues across Australia. Stephanie Timotheou caught up with a range of people involved to discuss their findings.

Managing to get down and dirty THERE are 250 grapegrowers with 15,800ha of vineyards spread throughout the Limestone Coast covering Coonawarra, Padthaway, Wrattonbully, Mount Benson, Robe and Mount Gambier. And each area is faced with different environmental resources and challenges with the Limestone Coast Grape and Wine Council (LCGWC) determined to tackle each and every one of them. Including soil-related issues. Cape Jaffa Wines winemaker Anna Hooper, Patrick Wines owner and winemaker Luke Tocacui, Henry’s Drive Vignerons proprietor Kim Longbottom and Penfolds Robe Vineyards vineyard manager Nick Baverstock were selected as the four participants to learn about regions across Australia and to find techniques to benefit their own soil environment. During the tour, which kicked off in May, the group met with peers and experts to devise a long term soil management strategy for the Limestone Coast. The program, coordinated by LCGWC technical committee chair Ben Harris, AWRI senior viticulturist and Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate vineyard manager Mardi Longbottom and Bellwether winemaker Sue Bell has so far taken the group to

WA, exploring Margaret River and Perth to explore innovative soil-management practices. LCGWC chairman Brendan Provis said the soil stewards came from different disciplines and regions across the zone and spent time unearthing issues in their own backyard before heading further afield. “They started in the Coorong, mapping the good and the bad of the Limestone Coast and devising a plan to prioritise and address soil management across the region as a whole,” he said. “During the program we hope to devise creative local solutions that value the world-famous resources we work with, while assisting in the development of highly skilled grape and wine industry leaders.” Dr Mardi Longbottom said the program was a fantastic opportunity for leaders of the region to experience innovation in practice in other regions and industries. “The Limestone Coast has a wealth of talent and resources in its people and this program will assist them to take their skills to the next level,” she said. During the tour the group also participated in leadership activities to assist the widespread adoption of their findings in the Limestone Coast.

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July 2014 – Issue 606

Soil matters: Exploring soil origins at Wet Cave in Naracoorte Caves National Park were, from left: soil steward Nick Baverstock, program coordinator Ben Harris, soil steward Anna Hooper, program facilitator Russell Fisher, soil steward Luke Tocaciu, program coordinator Sue Bell and soil steward Kim Longbottom.

Cape Jaffa Wines winemaker Anna Hooper said one of the best things about being able to travel around different parts of Australia was that it inspired people to think outside the square and challenge the status quo. “The program has really prompted us to think holistically about the importance of maintaining a healthy soil, not just for long-term sustainability of the site, but for its impact on our ability to push wine quality to a new level,” she said. “For the first stage of our journey we visited WA’s Margaret River – a region where care for the environment strikes you as soon as you arrive. “The extent of native vegetation that has been left uncleared not only makes

the region very beautiful but also provides an indication of a level of environmental stewardship that’s also evident in their vineyard practices.” She said by sharing the insights of acclaimed producers at Vasse Felix, Howard Park, Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Sandleford and Lenton Brae, as well as hearing from some of the top researchers in the field, the group has started to understand the impact of getting undervine practices optimised for the site to enhance soil condition, and in-turn provide many downstream benefits. Participants will also travel to Victoria, Adelaide, Barossa and McLaren Vale at the end of July which will see the completion of their tour.

The program is supported by funding from the GWRDC’s regional program, the LCGWC and AWRI. Contacts: Ulrich Grey-Smith Executive officer, LCGWC P: 61 429 499 355 E: tech3@limestonecoastwine.com.au Dr Mardi Longbottom P: 61 8 8313 6834 E: mardi.longbottom@awri.com.au Anna Hooper P: 61 427 685 077 E: anna@capejaffawines.com.au

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Flushing out biofilm from irrigation systems NATURAL Water Solutions (NWS) is a Western Australian company which has developed what it describes as an innovative and efficient method of generating a 7500mg/L two part solution of pure 99.9 per cent chlorine dioxide and which it claims is 100 per cent biodegradable. And they must have something going for them according to Christo Edwards, a director of, and viticulturist for, Edwards Wines. He says as an owner of a vineyard/ wine business for more than 20 years it is important to him to have preventative maintenance schedules in place for any valuable equipment. “The CleanOxide 75 product from Natural Water Solutions is an excellent, value-for-money preventative product for my irrigation system,” Edwards says. “The results we got far exceeded any other product we have used in the past,” he says. “I would recommend this product to anyone thinking of improving their current irrigation maintenance.” NWS director Brian Martin says CleanOxide 75 is the most superior and efficient product on the market today for the control of biological contaminants in irrigation. Martin says a common problem encountered in all irrigation systems is growth of micro-organisms in the

In the field: Tim Byrne, vineyard manager at Edwards Wines and Brian Martin, Natural Water Solutions, discuss pipe maintenance at the Margaret River enterprise.

irrigation pipes causing poor flow, blockages and the potential for the spread of disease-causing organisms throughout the irrigated area. “The micro-organisms flourishing in irrigation pipes include bacteria, fungi, viruses, biofilm and algae,” Martin says. “Irrigation pipes also provide an ideal environment for biofilm slime on the inside of the pipes,” he says. “Biofilm is not removed or controlled by normal levels of chlorination. Even heavy doses of chlorine (super chlorination) do not remove biofilm. “That’s where CleanOxide 75 comes

in, it exists in solution as a dissolved gas which is able to diffuse into the biofilm where it can destroy the micro-organisms responsible for the biofilm,” he says. “Chlorine dioxide remains effective over a wide pH range from about 4 to 10. This is in sharp contrast to chlorine which is only effective over a narrow pH. “CleanOxide 75 is the sustainable solution at optimising your irrigation systems.” Contact: Brian Martin P: 61 (0) 429 046 226 E: bmartin@nwsolutions.com.au

Pruning – the future may be back to the past Vineyard consultant Dr Richard Smart says when asked to write an article on pruning he wondered “what on earth I might say that is new on this topic”. It seems everything that could be written about grapevine pruning has already been, sometime in the past few centuries. ONLY a little while ago I was standing in a vineyard in Verona, Italy, and said to fellow viticultural consultant Pruning Marco Simons: “I am 69-years-old, and I have come here to Italy today to learn how to properly prune grapevines. Thank you for the lesson”.

44 Grapegrower & Winemaker

All cut up: Pruning wounds in the head of a 30-year-old Pinot Noir vine, Launceston, Tasmania. The accumulation of such wounds causes opportunity for invasion of trunk disease fungi.

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July 2014 – Issue 606

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Cut down: An old vine in the same patch of vineyard, showing the death of a cordon, which is typical of Botryosphaeria.

Simons has recently written a 314page book, a manual on pruning vines, and I thought everything was known about this. Let me give you some background to this story.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH GRAPEVINE PRUNING I began my career at the viticultural research station at Griffith, NSW. The winter of 1966 was the first time I pruned grapevines, as I had no prior experience. These were spur-pruned, furrowirrigated vigorous Shiraz vines, typical of the region. As I recall my senior colleague Ross Turkington involved me in his pruning trial with Shiraz and taught me cane pruning as well. So early on in my career I made experiments about bud number on subsequent yield and fruit composition. At that time all of the canopies were dense and shaded – the Aussie sprawl typical of inland irrigated vineyards. Beginning in 1971 I was mentored by Professor Nelson Shaulis of Cornell University and Geneva Experiment Station in New York. Shaulis had long been interested in grapevine pruning and was a strong advocate of so-called ‘balanced pruning’. That is, the bud number retained per vine at winter pruning depends on vine vigour.

46 Grapegrower & Winemaker

At a glance: • In the 1960s all of the canopies were dense and shaded – the Aussie sprawl typical of inland irrigated vineyards. • For several of the important fungi, their primary infection is through winter pruning wounds. It is now just being appreciated how destructive grapevine trunk diseases are. • Research is being carried on for fungicide dressings of pruning wounds, and these may eventually become widely used. • Vineyard managers may be forced to reconsider their attitude towards winter pruning. Rather than considering it an exercise in minimising cost, they may need to see it as an exercise in vine health protection. Shaulis was also an advocate of estimating vigour using pruning weight. Of course as a commercial practice there was no need to measure the pruning weight of every vine; it was simply enough to look at the vine and learn to assess pruning weight and judge bud numbers accordingly. While these principles were developed www.winebiz.com.au

by Shaulis for the American variety Concord, they were found also appropriate to vinifera winegrapes. I recently learned a variation of balanced pruning in the UK, based on the principle of looking at the vine to assess the average cane growth. Were it too small, then fewer buds will be left, and if it was too large, then more buds would be retained at pruning. This is a very simple system and easy to teach. One needs a good visual image of an ideal cane and the following is mine. The ideal cane weighs 40-50g, is about 1m long, is either self-terminating or there is limited lateral regrowth after trimming. Lateral growth on the cane is also limited, to a maximum of say five nodes on occasional lateral shoots. More recently in my career, and especially in the past five years, I have learnt about another important issue which will affect our approach to pruning. And that is trunk disease. For several of the important fungi, their primary infection is through winter pruning wounds. It is now just being appreciated how destructive grapevine trunk diseases are. The world’s trunk disease scientists, and a few viticulturists, are coming to the realisation of the importance of these diseases for the future of vineyards worldwide. July 2014 – Issue 606

WHY DO WE PRUNE GRAPEVINES? I wonder how many of the people, who spend up to 150 hours per ha pruning grapevines (in normally unpleasant weather conditions), might be able to answer this question. It does seem fundamental. In fact, grapevines do not require pruning. They have survived in the wild for more than 60 million years without being pruned, so why is it that since man has cultivated them, in just the past few thousand years, we have developed the idea that they need annual winter pruning? I saw an escaped vine growing up a tree at the edge of a vineyard in Belgrade, Serbia when I was there. You could see that bud break had happened along last year’s cane, and in fact it preferred towards the end of the

little like citrus trees, with new growth at the edge of the canopy each year. Put a pole in your vineyard and you will see how readily the grapevines will climb up. Another reason for pruning is to maintain large bunch and berry size. Vines which are not pruned, or very lightly pruned, have small bunches and small berries. This was a problem 30 or so years ago, with manual harvesting rate dependant on bunch size, but is not now with the advent of mechanical harvesters. The final reason for pruning is to maintain a canopy structure by retaining a certain number of buds per metre of canopy length – an important issue in canopy management. For many commercial vineyards in Australia the latter is not an important consideration.

The world’s trunk disease scientists, and a few viticulturists, are coming to the realisation of the importance of these diseases for the future of vineyards worldwide cane, which was not pruned but selfterminated. This enabled grapevines to climb trees, which is the evolutionary habitat for many grapevine species. There are clear reasons why grapevines are pruned in commercial vineyards. Firstly it is part of keeping the vines in place, within the row. So-called minimally pruned grapevines grow a

THE EVOLUTION OF VINE PRUNING IN AUSTRALIA. Up until the mid 1970s vineyards in Australia were pruned by hand and some of the principles outlined above were followed – but not all. In some regions grapevine pruning was considered as a form of craft and there were annual pruning competitions.

I was never sure how these competitions were judged, but there was definitely an aesthetic component, among others. When Peter Dry and I taught viticulture at Roseworthy Agricultural College, we taught various forms of pruning, and some guiding principles such as balanced pruning. We also emphasised the importance of cane selection for Guyot (cane) pruning. Around this time, vineyards were coming under scrutiny as “cost centres”. In part this was a reflection of external takeovers within the wine sector, and an increasing influence of accountants. Bob Hollick of Mildura and others also began experimenting with mechanical pruning. Roseworthy received funds from the Australian Wine Board for research on this topic. Two conferences were held at Roseworthy, in 1976 and 1980. Perhaps a logical extension to mechanical pruning was minimal pruning, which was much researched and promoted by CSIRO at Merbein. Both mechanical and minimal pruning became widely adopted in many vineyards in Australia. This included the inland irrigated regions mostly used in the production of bulk wine. However, large company vineyards in Coonawarra, for example, were also pruned in this fashion and I have heard of concern by winemakers of the impact on quality. The widespread adoption of mechanical and minimal pruning in many regions of Australia was a barrier to changes in trellis system which might otherwise have happened.

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Grapegrower & Winemaker

grapegrowing Obviously minimal and mechanical pruned vines had little concern for bud number and balanced pruning. The thought of hand follow up to control bud number after mechanical pruning was not much appreciated. For many large commercial vineyards which are hand pruned, the labour is now supplied by contractors. Such workers are not necessarily well trained in grapevine pruning nor are familiar with viticulture at all. Most companies are only concerned with how many cents per vine are involved in pruning. The future holds the prospect of vineyard robots performing winter pruning. Such machines should not be so difficult to design, nor taught to prune. They will be expensive but hopefully cost effective. And they will be able to balance prune. For the moment, pruning of grapevines is seen as a necessary cost and little else.

WHAT HAS CHANGED WITH GRAPEVINE PRUNING? What has changed is the increasing presence of grapevine trunk diseases, which are seen in Australia and many other countries. The Botryosphaeria fungus has many species which are pathogenic to grapevines, and is of particular concern. Other species are involved with Eutypa and Esca. The fungi spread by infecting pruning wounds, mostly by splash dispersal of spores.

48 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Rain and humid weather encourage spore release by the fungus, and pruning in wet weather is to be avoided. Research is being carried on for fungicide dressings of pruning wounds, and these may eventually become widely used. One particular area of concern with inexperienced pruners is pruning cuts are often too large, and may be too close to the trunk, and such wounds are not healed. This is why the trunk diseases of Eutypa and Esca tend to show up in vines older than 10 years, as pruning wounds accumulate in such vines (see picture). Another consideration is careful hand pruning such as proposed by Marco Simonit in Italy. His idea is the pruning wounds should not impede sap flow in the vines. Marco and his colleagues have studied the desiccation of tissue which occurs below pruning wounds, as a natural wounding response. By careful pruning one can ensure the so-called â&#x20AC;&#x153;conesâ&#x20AC;? of desiccation do not interfere with sap flow in the vines. There is not the space here to elaborate on this interesting approach. However I do anticipate such issues might be addressed in grapevine pruning in the future as a means to avoid infection and retain vineyard productivity. One issue which is becoming clear is that vineyards with increasing proportions of sick and dead vines can rapidly become uneconomical. I see vineyards in some countries

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which require replanting before 20 years of age because of vine death due to trunk disease. One approach might be to decide to replant vineyards say every 20 years and continue to reuse the trellis and irrigation system. However, I doubt such an approach will be the most economical. I am inclined to think where hand pruning is practised (or perhaps hand follow up after mechanical pre-pruning) a system of wound protection, programmed trunk replacement and pruning wound protection to minimise infection might be a better option. This could be combined with removal of dead vines to reduce infection, and replanting missing vines.

CONCLUSION I am not sure how the grapevine pruning scenario will work out. I do believe that many vineyard managers in Australia may be forced to reconsider their attitude towards winter pruning. Rather than considering it an exercise in minimising cost, they may need to see it as an exercise in vine health protection. Because of the rate of development of new trunk disease infections I see in vineyards older than 10 years, I think that we will face this sooner rather than later. Contact: Dr Richard Smart P: 44 (0) 1736 448 512 E: vinedoctor@smartvit.com.au

July 2014 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Issue 606

Pruning without the pain INDEPENDENT research from Europe, the US and here in Australia is documenting the increase in worker production and health when using electric pruners. Ryset Australia’s John Anzelloti says in some studies gains were up 40 per cent over manual pruners. And Anzelloti says the cost of getting into electric pruning is more than offset by both the increased efficiency and less downtime by pruners. He says US-based manufacturer Infaco has found when using an Electrocoup F3010 the return on investment is generally less than two years. “The UC Davis Agricultural Ergonomics Research Centre stated point blank that electric pruners will completely eliminate repetitive strain injury,” Anzelloti says. “With the balanced handpiece and the Electrocoup’s softer, ultra-flat, much narrower and scientifically balanced battery, back pack strain is also eliminated,” he says.

No pain, big gain: The Electrocoup’s combination of electric power and ergonomic design is providing pruners with a pain-free option in vineyards.

“The only possible complaint left was from workers fearing they might accidentally lop off a finger. “Well Electrocoup now has that solved too – and the answer is ridiculously simple. The entire concept behind the safety glove is conductivity. Workers are already wearing a vest with the battery pack and the safety glove has a fine stainless mesh incorporated throughout the fabric. “If the blades or any metallic part of the pruner so much as touches the glove, the pruner grounds out and instantly stops – it’s just like a Clipsal safety switch in your hand.” Anzelloti says the same is true if a worker mistakenly tries to prune support wires in the trellis. If he is holding the trellis wire when the blade comes in contact with it he says the machine will instantly halt, a great safety preventative. “A cord from the glove runs up your arm and simply plugs into the control

box in the vest – this is where the magic happens,” he says. “The microprocessor in the Electrocoup is so advanced it can sense a number of processes and can shut the unit down. “The glove also has new surfacing for better gripping and longevity. "The gloves come in four sizes and are offered for left- and right-handed workers. “If used continuously, it will last approximately two months. Kits come with two gloves each, and gloves should be washed once a week.” The Electrocoup DSES safety system was the winner of the gold prize at the prestigious SIVAL D’OR Viticulture and Horticulture Exhibition in France in January. You can see more at www.youtube. com/watch?v=cmYHjxI-i4I. Contact: John Anzelloti P: 61 3 9457 2982 E: johnanzellotti@gmail.com

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WHEN it comes to cutting back on time and money the GroGuard is proving to be a handy solution. It is a zip-up rigid training tube which runs from the ground to its attachment point on the cordon wire. And that means no more hand training and hand weeding. GroGuard says its system – which has been continuously manufactured in Australia since 1990 – also replaces training strings and stakes. The company claims savings over traditional methods of establishment on a large planting are estimated at a whopping $3000/ha – plus. The design is a result of nine years of development work and has been proven in a variety of conditions during the past 17 years. Assembly is quick and easy – it costs only about 20 cents in labour. The actual time to install in the field depends on the site, but is usually very similar. GroGuard is fully sealed and also offers reliable protection against herbicide sprays, with no hand weeding needed. The company says it is also highly wind resistant, in some locations winds which have felled trees have not affected It is very wind firm. Winds that blow trees over have not affected GroGuards in the field. The system is guaranteed for three www.winebiz.com.au

years and some growers have reused their GroGuards for up to seven years. Trellising A GroGuard spokes& Training man says that the company understands the product must be 100 per cent reliable. “Failure in the field would cost the grower vastly more than the cost of the GroGuard,” he adds. “GroGuard originated the vineguard (or “grow tube” in the US) with the inspiration coming from work by the Scottish forester, Graham Tuley, who did research on using tubes to help establish trees. “GroGuard’s initial trials on vines were done in 1988 and its first paper on the application of Tuley’s ideas to grapevines followed these trials and was published in Grapegrower & Winemaker in June 1990 – a world first.” GroGuard has also been active in research and has since published more than 20 papers on vineguards/growtubes. GroGuard manufactures exclusively in Australia in order, it says, to maintain the high production standards needed to ensure that failures in the field do not occur. GroGuard is wholly Australian owned and operated. Contact: Graham Due P: 61 3 9480 1280 E: vines@internode.on.net July 2014 – Issue 606

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STOP! Bunch rot and all other nasties

In a wet and warm summer non-Botrytis bunch rot can reduce yields and affect wine quality but Charles Sturt University research has shown a fungicide spray at flowering can make the difference.

RESEARCH into managing bunch rot, led by Charles Sturt University professor of viticulture Chris Steel from the National Wine and Grape Industry Centre, was carried out Spraying in a commercial vineyard in NSW's Hunter Valley and the results have been published in the Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research. The most common form of bunch rot is Botrytis cinerea (grey mould) but professor Steel said bitter rot and ripe rot can be just as damaging in sub-tropical climates. “We mainly see these fruit rots in areas which experience warm temperatures and wet conditions at harvest time, so primarily in vineyards north of Sydney, in the Hunter Valley, on the Mid-North Coast and into the Burnett region of Queensland,” he said. “But occasionally it can be a problem in the Mudgee area and even on the NSW South Coast near Eden.” Professor Steel, who teaches viticulture at CSU’s School of Agricultural and Wine Sciences in Wagga Wagga NSW, has also warned bitter rot and ripe rot may become a problem for vineyards in other regions in the future. “Different climate change scenarios predict things such as warmer, wetter conditions in inland regions of Australia and if there’s a wet summer combined with higher temperatures then we’re going to see more of these rots in other regions,” he said. Professor Steel said the fungi Greeneria uvicola and Colletotrichum acutatum, which cause bitter rot and ripe rot respectively, cause bitter or ‘off’ flavour in wine. “Ripe rot is described as producing a hessian sack or mouldy straw flavour and both ripe rot and bitter rot can lead to a browning of red wine,” he said.

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Ripe and rotten: Ripe rot a hessian sack or mouldy straw flavour, can lead to browning of red wine and also causes berries to shrivel and fall off.

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July 2014 – Issue 606

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grapegrowing “Ripe rot also causes berries to shrivel and fall off.”

RESEARCH FOCUS Much of the Australian research into bitter rot and ripe rot has been carried out by professor Steel and his colleagues at the NWGIC at CSU. He said one of the key problems for growers is there are no fungicides registered for controlling bitter and ripe rot in Australia and many of the practices used to manage Botrytis are ineffective. A recently completed project, carried out as part of the Grape and Wine Research and Development Corporation’s (GWRDC) $15 million Winegrowing Futures Program at the National Wine and Grape Industry Centre, aimed to investigate if there were potential fungicide sprays that could be used at flowering to limit subsequent bunch rots at berry maturity. Initially a range of fungicides used for controlling other diseases of grapes (azoxystrobin, boscalid, captan, chlorothalonil, iprodione, pyraclostrobin, pyrimethanil and trifluoxystrobin) were screened to see if they were effective against the bitter and ripe rot fungi. “We did this in the laboratory by looking at inhibition of fungal growth on agar plates,” professor Steel said. “From that we selected the best one, pyraclostorbin, with the trade name Cabrio for field trials.” This research built upon a previous study which found grapevine flowers were susceptible to the fungal infection and that this carried over to disease berries at harvest. “We can’t apply fungicides late in the growing season due to withholding periods, so our research was mainly looking at spraying at flowering stage but also as the berries started to develop,” professor Steel said.

HUNTER VALLEY TRIALS The field trials were carried out on Chardonnay grapes in a commercial vineyard in the lower Hunter Valley from 2009 to 2012. “We found the application of the fungicide Cabrio at flowering and at veraison, independently and in combination, reduced the incidence and severity of bitter and ripe rot at harvest,” he said. “There were year-to-year differences, particularly in the high rainfall year of 2012 when there was less control of bitter rot. “But having said that, we found there was still a significant reduction in the amount of bitter rot and ripe rot in all three years.

54 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Bitter pill: A close up example of bitter rot on the vine. While this has been an exclusively subtropical problem climate change means it may start spreading south.

“The take home message is that this product will work, but in some seasons when there’s exceptionally wet weather then it may not be as effective. “One limiting factor in the use of fungicide sprays is limited availability of chemicals that can be applied to wine grapes destined for the export market.” The research, Application of Cabrio (a.i. pyraclostrobin) at flowering and veraison reduces the severity of bitter rot (Greeneria uvicola) and ripe rot (Colletotrichum acutatum) of grapes, by professor Steel, Dr Suren Samuelian, Dr Sandra Savocchia and Mrs Lindsay Greer from the NWGIC has been published in the Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research. Professor Steel said variety selection and vineyard management can also play a key role in limiting the damage caused by non-Botrytis bunch rot. “In terms of non- fungicide control measures growers can plant earliermaturing varieties,” he said. “For example, most of the rain in the Hunter Valley falls from mid-February through to early March. "If you can grow varieties that are harvested before then it’s going to avoid the summer rains and reduce the chance of getting these fruit rots. “Botrytis is usually managed by opening up the canopy of the grapevine so fruit has more exposure to sunlight. But that doesn’t work for ripe rot because it’s triggered by sunburn and berry shrivel.

IMPACT ON WINE QUALITY “We recommend maintaining a closed canopy on western side of vineyard, where you get high sun exposure and hotter temperatures in the afternoon.” www.winebiz.com.au

New research is focusing on the impact of bitter and ripe rot on wine quality. “We realise growers are limited in what chemicals can be used in vineyards so we’ve begun taking a closer look at the impact these fruit rots have on wine quality,” professor Steel added. “So, if we don’t get complete control in a growing season, what level of fungal contamination can we cope with in the grapes when we make wine?” This new research will receive approximately $750,000 in funding from 2013 to 2017 from the Grape and Wine Research and Development Corporation (GWRDC). “The first step is to see how much bunch rot produces a noticeable taint in the wine. To do that we’re looking at the impact the fungi have on the chemistry of the wine, the ‘off flavours’ produced and how much fungus there can be in a bunch before you can detect the compounds in the wine. “We’re also examining the sensory perceptions of the ‘off flavours’ and what level of infection consumers can tolerate,” professor Steel said. “After that we will examine what can be done in the wine production process to remove those flavours. “There are tricks in the winery where we can put in compounds or fining agents to pull out and remove the unwanted flavours.” The NWGIC is an alliance between Charles Sturt University (CSU), the NSW Department of Primary Industries (DPI) and the NSW Wine Industry Association.

Contact: Emily Malone P: 61 2 6933 2207 E: emalone@csu.edu.au July 2014 – Issue 606

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grapegrowing

My grapevines are frosted – what now? If a frost hits before harvest there is still plenty you can do to minimise the damage and maximise the yield from affected vines. This checklist from viticulture experts at the Victorian Department of Primary Industry provides an A, B, C of what to do in that predicament.

Quiet , Reliable, Ef f icient

Andrew: +64 212 769 963 Office: +64 6 879 7312 Email: info@nzfrostfans.com

AUSTRALIAN Ben: +61 4 4811 1384 Office: 1800 797 629 Email: info@aussiefrostfans.com.au www.aussiefrostfans.com.au www.nzfrostfans.com 56 Grapegrower & Winemaker

FROST damage to grapevines primarily occurs in spring in September and October during the early growth Frost phase of the vine. Frost at this time can kill the foliage right back to the cordon, or partially kill the shoots and inflorescences, resulting in significant crop losses. In a warming climate, while the number of frosts may decrease, budburst is likely to occur earlier and so still be susceptible to frost damage. A warmer, drier climate also provides conditions more suitable for frost and consequently there may be an increased risk of a damaging frost. Depending on the timing and severity of the frost, growers may wish to consider management options to improve the yield in the current and subsequent season, as well as providing good quality canes and spur positions for pruning in the following winter. Autumn frosts before harvest also occur occasionally but little can be done to resurrect the vine. If the fruit has been frozen it should be harvested immediately. If only the leaves are killed the sugar concentration in the fruit will only increase slowly through dehydration of the berry. Deciding when to harvest needs to be weighed up against the possibility of another frost freezing the fruit and further reducing its quality. On balanced vines, canes should be sufficiently hardened to provide good quality canes and spurs for pruning in winter. Research results from post frostmanagement trials can be difficult to interpret. Dates of frosts are often mentioned but the stage of vine growth and extent of the damage are less clearly documented. This could be resolved by developing a standard frost injury index integrating grapevine phenology and the degree of damage. www.winebiz.com.au

FROST DAMAGE IN SPRING • Frost damage may not be immediately noticeable but symptoms appear more clearly after a period of sunny days. • Young succulent shoots will wilt once the frost thaws but older more hardened shoots will take a few days to show symptoms. • Frosting of inflorescences may not be immediately apparent but after several days they begin to dry out and individual flowers start to fall off, particularly when handled. • There may be a sequence of frosts whereby regrowth from an early frost may get affected by later frosts.

DETERMINE YOUR AIMS FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE SEASON The way the vines are managed after a frost event will depend on what your aims are for the current and subsequent season. The strategy for maximising crop in the current year will differ from that if you wish to focus on good quality canes for pruning in winter. • Maximising the crop in the year of the frost by taking no action after a frost often leads to lower fruitfulness in the subsequent season. • Cane pruning requires good quality canes which are better achieved by removing all green shoots after a frost rather than letting lateral growth proliferate. • If in a high rainfall, disease prone area, removing the dead green growth will reduce the potential for disease during the growing season. • The anticipated benefit or disadvantage of a particular approach has to be weighed up against the cost of undertaking remedial action. • Pruning affected shoots with secateurs by hand is more than twice as costly as rubbing off the shoots by hand. • Most varieties have fruitful secondary buds which will produce 50-70 per cent of a full crop. Less fruitful varieties or some varieties grown in cool climates that require July 2014 – Issue 606

cane pruning will produce much less secondary crop.

SEVERE FROST DAMAGE • In the case of a severe frost where all green shoots are killed back to the cordon, no remedial action is justified - just let the vines re-shoot and grow out the season. • The regrowth will be from dormant secondary buds and the crop will ripen evenly but perhaps later than usual. • Secondary shoot growth should be adequate to establish spurs and for cane pruning. • If frost occurs before the shoots are at the five leaf stage (Modified Eichhorn-Lorennz system (EL) 12 – see http://door.uwex.edu/files/2010/10/ Modif ied Eich hor nLoren nzsystem. pdf), there is minimal impact on bud fruitfulness or yield in the following season – shoot growth has adequate time to produce fruitful buds during the growing season. • If frost occurs after the shoots are at the eight leaf stage (EL 15), then reduced bud fruitfulness has been observed in the following season. • If frost occurs after EL 15 then checking the bud fruitfulness during winter

is recommended so adjustments to pruning can be made to maintain desired cropping levels.

MODERATE TO LOW FROST DAMAGE • If incomplete kill of shoots occurs before the EL 12 stage, then rubbing out the buds to force secondary buds may be considered. • If damaged shoots are not removed, a proliferation of lateral shoots from the green shoots results. The laterals may be poorly placed for spur positions in the following season and may not provide good quality canes for cane pruning. • Before stage EL 12, shoots can be readily broken off the spur or cane without damaging the dormant secondary buds at the base of the shoot. • For damage at and after EL stage 15, no remedial action is suggested. Shoot removal by rubbing out after that stage can damage dormant secondary buds and current season yields are less than with taking no action. • With the latter, the cost of shoot removal, either by rubbing out or pruning off dead material, is not recovered through any higher yield response.

SUMMARY • Growers need to decide whether they want to focus on the yield in the season of the frost, the potential quality of wood available for winter pruning or the yield in the following season. • If the frost damage is early in the growth period (before EL 12) then complete shoot removal is an option providing a cost effective practice to remove shoots is available. • The shoot removal practice produces less yield in the current season but better quality wood for pruning in the winter and minimal impact on yield in the following season. • If frost damage occurs later in the growth period (after EL 15) research has shown no advantage in removing the full shoot or in trimming back dead portions of the shoot. • The no action practice maximises yield in the current season, but produces lower quality pruning material in winter and potentially lower bud fruitfulness in the subsequent season, but this could be compensated for by leaving extra buds during the pruning process. Contact: www.depi.vic.gov.au

Protect Your Grapes Why risk losing it all to Frost, Hail or Fire? We work with you to establish your needs. You may want to cover for your full potential loss or just cover for the expenses you will outlay to produce the crop - it’s your choice. FLEXIBLE COVERS with premiums to match. To find out how simple crop insurance can be when you’re dealing with someone who’s on your side, call MGA Insurance Brokers for a quote today.

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Grapegrower21/6/10 & Winemaker 57 3:49:28 PM

winemaking winemaking

Turning to water to turn it into wine Ageing of wine underwater splashes down Down Under Ageing wine underwater has been a craze for years. Winemakers in France, Italy, Greece and Spain are all doing it and are saying the results are phenomenal. Stephanie Timotheou looks into the wacky world of ageing wine and discovers one Aussie winemaker who’s been experimenting with this fad of biblical proportions. TURNING water to help it turn your work into wine is a pretty tough gig to follow. So who would have thought winemaking circa 2014 would require a snorkel and a swim suit? Because diving classes are not yet on the curriculum of any of Australia’s university wine courses. But experiments in the art of underwater ageing may have winemakers reassessing their gear and equipment as the maturation process shifts from the winery to the water. By playing with the parameters of how wine is fermented and aged – oxygen exposure, temperature, darkness, pressure and agitation – winemakers are now using the deep blue sea to rethink how the industry makes a top quality drop.

WHERE IT ALL BEGAN In 2007 French vigneron Emmanuel Poirmeur began plunging his sparkling wine underwater during secondary fermentation. He was one of the first to take wine ageing to the next level and soon after Italian winemaker Piero Lugano began ageing his Spumante underwater because he didn’t have adequate cellar space on land. Lugano loaded 6500 bottles into a metal cage and lowered it 60m into the sea – where it sat for 16 months. Four vintages and 26,000 bottles of wine later, Lugano said the absence of

58 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Mind-boggling: Ten Men Wines’ barrels after they have been sitting underwater for 14 months.

oxygen and slight cradle effect created by strong currents encouraged the optimal development of aromas. While the craze is anywhere near as widely used in Australia, Ten Men Wines in the Yarra Valley has decided to float the idea and according to winemaker Ben Portet the results were fascinating, When divers found 170-year-old bottles of Champagne at the bottom of the Baltic Sea between Sweden and Finland in 2010, Portet had no idea it would eventually lead him to ageing his own wine underwater. “I am told the Champagne tastes amazingly fresh so my aim was to replicate the conditions this wine was put through,” he said. In 2011 Portet took the plunge and dropped two large barrels of wine into a replica ocean – a large container filled with rainwater. “A few years later I had bottled the first small parcel of Shiraz that was aged under completely submerged conditions.” When Portet’s friend (and a winemaker at Lammershoek Winery in South Africa) Craig Hawkins said he had a few barrels of his new vintage Shiraz ageing underwater, it immediately recalled images of those antique Champagne bottles retrieved from the depths and Portet was keen to take the challenge. Portet and Hawkins decided to create a wine together mixing Lammershoek and Ten Men wines and ageing the blend underwater for 14 months. “After the juice of the new vintage www.winebiz.com.au

Shiraz had finished fermenting I transferred the wine into French oak barrels, closed the top, held my breath and sank the barrels to begin its journey to bottle,” he said.

THE EFFECTS While Portet’s experiment wasn’t completed at sea, he said the results were exactly the same as other experiments undertaken in Europe, in a real ocean. He said the main difference between a wine aged underwater as opposed to a cellar was the submerged barrels are extremely fruit focused and had a more youthful tannin which was raw compared to traditionally-aged Shiraz. “Water ageing also benefitted the Pyrenees Shiraz by its slow evolution, which preserved its freshness,” Portet said. The argument presented is the lack of oxygen, limited light, consistently cool temperature, high pressure and gentle agitation from the currents make the seabed a perfect place for storing wine and all factors play a positive role in the wine ageing process from barrel to bottle. Several studies and experiments have been undertaken across Europe to discover the effect of underwater ageing on wine. Château Larrivet Haut-Brion managing director and winemaker Bruno Lemoine commissioned a barrel-making company to produce two 56-litre barrels – one was kept in the winery and one was in an oyster bed off the south west coast of France. July 2014 – Issue 606

After six months the wine kept at sea had considerably improved. It was analysed by renowned winemaker Michel Rolland with the help of his laboratory team and tasted by a group of experts. Analysis confirmed there had been exchanges by osmosis between the wine and sea despite the water-proof concrete surrounding the barrels. During the six months, the wine lost some alcohol and the level of sodium increased. Whether the wine is still in the barrel or is under cork or screwcap, the minute oxygen comes into contact with the wine, it evolves. During this experiment, the sea swell naturally produced the interaction of the wine with its environment and brought salt into contact with the wine rather than oxygen. According to an article on Vintec Australia’s blog, the wine storage solutions and wine preservation company is considering offering underwater wine storage in Sydney Harbour. The company said while it wasn’t on the cards any time soon, there is a possibility it will offer clients underwater storage in the future.

July 2014 – Issue 606

Group marketing manager Thomas Benhamou said the idea of offering underwater wine ageing came about after spending time around winemakers in Bordeaux who introduced him to the concept. “I travelled to France for three months in 2010 and after visiting Bordeaux vineyards and speaking with winemakers there, I was told of the benefits they were receiving with underwater cellaring,” Benhamou said. “The idea of offering underwater storage has been a personal project of the Vintec team to be attempted one day because of our passion for wellaged wines and our interest in the art of cellaring.” He said while it sounds like a great idea, there is one small hurdle the team needs to overcome – getting a green light from NSW Maritime. If Vintec is able to bring the team and resources together to attempt this experiment with proper monitoring and security, Benhamou said the company could offer its more curious clients the option to trial underwater cellaring with their top drops. “If we attempted this watery experiment, the storage space would be the size of a large crate or pallet which

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would probably be able hold about 672 bottles,” he says. “It would also have controlled sensors, cameras and security seals to analyse the wines more scientifically, keeping in mind it is only a personal project for the time being.” Benhamou says more experiments still need to be done to give the industry a better understanding of the long-term impacts of higher-pressure environments and exchanges by osmosis between the wine and the sea. But while it all sounds well and good, he doesn’t think it will become the cellaring option of the future as there is still a high risk of damaging the ecosystem. “Although it has its cons, it’s an interesting concept and I think there will always be a small group of people willing to take it on and experiment with it in Australia.” Contacts: Ben Portet P: 61 0409 767 838 E: ben@dominiqueportet.com Thomas Benhamou P: 61 2 9509 1900 E: thomas@vintec.com.au

Grapegrower & Winemaker

ask the The ABCs of filtration and what works for you AT this time of year there are always lots of questions regarding filtration. Here are some of the more common ones:

What is the difference between Absolute versus Nominal filter ratings? Nominal micron rating indicates the ability of a filter to retain a nominal amount, or remove a minimum percentage (usually 50-90%) of material, of the rated pore size. Absolute micron rating indicates the actual pore or opening size of the filter medium and thus indicates the size of the smallest particle that will be removed by the filter.

What is the difference between depth and surface filtration? Depth filters are not absolute filters because they do not have a precisely defined pore size or structure. They remove particles that are larger than the aperture or pore size of the filter by mechanical retention of the particles, by adsorption, or by an electric charge that can attract and trap smaller particles. They are used for high solids removal and high throughput, with diatomaceous earth, perlite and cellulose pads falling into this category. Today many are bypassing depth filtration and using clarification techniques such as centrifugation or flotation, or cross-flow filtration. Surface filters are generally absolute filters with precisely defined maximum pore sizes, and include 0.65 and 0.45 µm or ‘sterile’ filtration. They remove particles like a sieve, with larger particles retained on the surface of the filter which gradually blocks the flow. Absolute filtration is useful for sterile filtration at the bottling line and at times when you need guaranteed removal of microorganisms. Prior filtration with a depth filter and other surface sacrificial filters at a higher pore size is usually required to prevent clogging the surface of a membrane filter.

Can I use cross flow for sterile filtration? Cross flow filtration is a surface filter that allows high throughput due to the tangential nature of the filter that continually cleans the filter surface. Most cross flow membranes are only nominally rated at 0.2 µm which is theoretically tight enough for sterile filtration but as it is only a nominal rating, and can’t be pressure tested for integrity before use, wineries will still need to use a membrane filter if they want to achieve a sterile filtration. Wine type

Brilliant

Turbid

White wine

<1.1

>4.4

Rose wine

<1.4

>5.8

Red wine

<2.0

>8.0

What NTU level do I need for filtration? Many contract bottling facilities require wine to be provided ready for bottling and with a certain level of clarity. The AWRI generally recommends using turbidity as an indication of clarity although some producers also use filterability tests to gain an indication of how the wine will react with the filtration media. If using filterability tests, it’s important to ensure that the filters used in the test are identical to those used in the cellar. Correspondence between turbidity measurements (NTU) and

60 Grapegrower & Winemaker

appearance is shown in the table below adapted from RibéreauGayon et al. 2006. Some bottlers will require tighter turbidity clarification levels for filtration at bottling.

What level of filtration do I need? The following table collates typical filtration media supplier recommendations for NTU levels against their filter and nominal micron rating, and is intended as a guide only. If you know the NTU of a wine then it should be easy to determine which filter pore size to use. Contact the filter manufacturer for more detail. Cuno sheets1

Seitz sheets2

Ekwip grade3

35 -<100

5H (5.0µm) 10H (2.0µm)

K900 (8µm)

Z3 (2.0µm) Z5 (1.0µm)

Second racking

12-35

30H (1.0µm) 50H (0.8µm)

K250 (4µm)

Z5 (1.0µm) Z6 (0.8µm)

Final filtration for dry wines

1.0-3.0

50H (0.8µm) 60H (0.5µm)

K200 (3.0µm) K150 (2.0µm)

Z6 (0.8µm) Z7 (0.6µm)

<1.0

70H (0.3µm) 90H (0.2µm)

KS50 (0.5µm) EK (0.4 µm)

Z7 (0.6µm) Z8 (0.4µm)

Filtration purpose First racking

Filtration for sweet, higher risk or final polish pre-membrane filtration

NTU

1. Cuno http://www.3mpurification.com.au 2. Seitz http://www.pall.com 3. Ekwip http://winequip.com.au/Filtration

Does filtration strip out colour and flavour? It is a long-held belief in the wine industry that tight filtration such as membrane or sterile filtration below 0.45 μm will strip the aroma and colour from big red wines. For this reason, many winemakers avoid the use of sterile filters in wine production, which can cause uncertainty in microbial stability of the finished wine. Surprisingly there have been few studies investigating different levels of filtration on wine colour and impact on sensory quality. The question of whether the colour would drop out anyway over time is also raised. A study at UC Davis is currently investigating if filtration strips out colour and has any impact on flavour over time (Bohanan et al. 2011). Current results after six months show no sensory or chemical differences between control and filtered red wines. The AWRI in turn is investigating wine texture and the role of macromolecules, and if these are removed by filtration. For more information on filtration, contact the AWRI Winemaking Services team at winemakingservices@awri.com. au or 08 8313 6600.

References

1. Ribéreau-Gayon, P.; Glories, Y.; Maujean, A; Dubourdieu, D. (2006b) Handbook of Enology Second Edition Volume 2: The Chemistry of Wine Stabilisation and Treatments. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons Ltd. 2. Bohanan, L. Strekas, J. Boulton, R. Heymann, H. Block, D.E. Evaluating the effects of membrane filtration on sensory and chemical properties of wine. http://stream.ucanr.org/fps_wine_research_2011/Block/

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July 2014 – Issue 606

Prevention is best option for mousy off-flavour in wine Many won’t be able to smell or see it until it’s too late, but the incidence of mousy off-flavour in wine appears to be on the rise, with a growing number of enquiries and requests for help coming across the AWRI helpdesk. THE Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI) senior oenologist Geoff Cowey says about 20 wines with mousy character, from large and small wineries, have been sent in to the helpdesk during the past three years, with about half of these now being white or sparkling wine. “Previously you would be lucky to see it once a year, if at all. There is no seasonal trend as such but often it is picked up during wine ageing,” Cowey says. “Some of the mousy character could be found in whites made with extended periods of lees contact and minimal SO2,” he says. “The main chemical compound responsible for mousy off-flavour is 2acetyltetrahydropyridine (ACTPY) – and its aroma is characterised as being ‘caged mice and cracker biscuits’. “Generally, you can’t ‘smell’ the character as it is a basic compound, or is only aromatic at pH 7 (neutral) or higher. Wine is obviously acidic and in wine the mousy compound changes its chemical structure to one that is not aromatic. “However when you put the wine in your mouth the pH increases and the compound returns to its normal aromatic form, allowing a taster to perceive it. “The mousy flavour can be delayed – it might take more than 30 seconds to develop on your palate. So if you see it in a tasting line-up, it is important to identify the right wine as the culprit, and make sure what you’re tasting isn’t a

carry-over effect from a previous wine.” Cowey says the flavour can also persist for several minutes in sensitive individuals making it difficult to taste afterwards. He says it is now believed as much as 30 per cent of the population are unable to detect this particular off-flavour at all, which can pose problems, particularly in small wineries, if the main tasters aren’t sensitive to the character. ‘Often it’s not until quite late when wines are almost ready for bottling, when someone might suddenly pick it up,” Cowey adds. “Unfortunately in some cases the wine has already been bottled and it is only detected once consumers who are sensitive to the character complain about the wine to the winery,” he says. There are two main origins of the offflavour – microbial and chemical. “If it’s microbial, it comes from the strains of lactic acid bacteria (LAB) including Lactobacillus hilgardii, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus brevis, and Oenococcus oeni and also the yeast Dekkera/Brettanomyces. “Historically this issue occurred in old style winemaking, such as high pH wines, minimal SO2, un-fined and unfiltered. The result was high pH red wines with mousy character, but also Brett and some VA faults too,” he says. “But much of this has changed as preventive hygienic measures introduced by wineries to control Brett have also

controlled mousiness and VA.” If its origin is chemical, it’s linked to the process of hyperoxidation, when hydrogen peroxide is used to remove SO2 from juice or wine. Cowey says the mechanism by which oxidation enhances mousy offflavour is currently unknown, but has been responsible for several sparkling base wines going mousy when treated to remove SO2 before secondary fermentation. He says this highlights the importance of performing SO2 removal steps carefully. “A recommended method for removing SO2 is available on the AWRI website,” he says. At this stage there are no routine methods for measuring the level of mousiness in wines, and detection is still reliant on the known tasters, sensitive to the off-flavour, in the AWRI tasting panel to help confirm mousy character for helpdesk clients. “There’s also no verified ways to remove the character, other than blending away the affected wine. As the character often comes from microbiological sources it is important to sterile filter the wine to make sure no more mousy character will be produced,” Cowey says. More information regarding mousy offflavour is available on the AWRI website or by contacting the AWRI helpdesk during business hours on 08 8313 6600 or winemakingservices@awri.com.au.

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July 2014 – Issue 606

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Grapegrower & Winemaker

THE BIG FOUR

Standing out at the big end of town The Big Four named in Grapegrower & Winemaker’s 2014 Top 20 were invited to tell us about what helps set them apart – apart from size – in the Australian wine industry and what these signature wines or programs mean in the corporate world.

Penfolds turns second Kalimna into 170th birthday feature Celebrating Penfolds and its 170th year in the Australian wine industry has been one milestone for Treasury Wine Estates, Australia’s biggest player in the market, but the release of only the second Bin 170 Kalimna Shiraz threatens to steal a lot of the thunder.

The chief: Penfolds chief winemaker and primary spruiker Peter Gago says the rare Kalmina Shiraz “commands attention, requests little and appreciates your patience”.

Vintessential wine test kits are the only ones made in Australia by its leading wine testing laboratory. Our kits are dedicated exclusively to our industry, with feedback from winemakers leading to continual improvement. That’s why we’re 100% confident you’ll confirm our kits are the best you’ve ever tested. Call 1300 30 2242, email info@vintessential.com.au or visit www.vintessential.com.au T H E R E I S A N A R T T O G O O D W I N E. A N D A S C I E N C E. VIN_J000472

62 Grapegrower & Winemaker

WHEN your name is Penfolds and you are celebrating your 170th birthday it makes it very hard to pin down the main man for a story about the decision making behind Australia’s top ranked Treasury Wine Estates. Peter Gago is chief winemaker at Penfolds. But with harvest and launching a raft of promotions around the world to celebrate the brand’s milestone he has still found time to fit in the annual release of the Icon and Luxury Collection. Which this year he says includes the 2010 Bin 170 Kalimna Shiraz. “This rare, one-off, single block, single vineyard wine was produced from the outstanding 2010 vintage,” Gago says. “Created only once before in 1973, Bin 170 is sourced exclusively from old vines planted in the ancient soils of Kalimna vineyard’s Block 3C in the Barossa Valley,” he says. “Handpicked and sensitively crafted, this unblended wine was matured for 16 months in French oak hogsheads and is a Shiraz which evokes a unique sense of place, commands attention, requests little and appreciates your patience. “The 2009 Grange provides an approachable follow up to the 2008 release; the classic and time-honoured St Henri performs as the superb alternative expression of Shiraz while Yattarna showcases trademark refinement and intensity. “But this year’s irrefutable star is the rare, limited edition Kalimna Shiraz – a wine we believe is a befitting commemoration of the Penfolds journey – from 1844 to Evermore.” The wines in the 170th anniversary Icon and Luxury Collection range in value from $1800 for the Kalimna Shiraz and $785 for the Grange down to $95 for the St Henri Shiraz. Gago says it is a selection which includes the best of the new with treasures of old. The important Bin 170 Kalimna Shiraz in particular, he says, is a “juxtaposition of older times and the contemporary”. “Beyond sourcing our time-honoured tradition of sourcing the best fruit from the best regions, these wines ably demonstrate Penfolds expertise with single and multi-regional blending, making wines to style and pursuing the highest of quality benchmarks,” Gago adds. “The quality of this release is testament to the winemaking team’s expertise and experience in fruit selection, vineyard management and parcel blending,” he says. Along with Gago and senior winemakers Steve Lienert, Kym Schroeter and John Bird (who have no fewer than 143 Penfolds

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July 2014 – Issue 606

vintages between them), that team includes Andrew Baldwin, Adam Clay, Matt Woo and Stephanie Dutton. Gago says these master craftsmen and women, with a highly experienced and dedicated team of viticulturists and grapegrowers behind them, continue to serve as silent custodians of the Penfolds stable, honouring traditional winemaking values while maintaining Penfolds spirit of experimentation and innovation. “Classic wines in their own right, these Penfolds flagship wines are instantly recognisable amongst wine collectors, with a strong, distinctive, individual style and a wonderful track record of cellaring performance,” he says. “Together they articulate an authentic voice of fine Australian wine.”

The quality of this release is testament to the winemaking team’s expertise and experience in fruit selection, vineyard management and parcel blending Penfolds also celebrated the release of its Kalimna Shiraz through a partnership with high-profile UK luxury brand LINLEY, which created bespoke signature cases using timehonoured and modern techniques. The result is a symbolic connection of two countries through history and materials – English oak from the birthplace of Penfolds founder Dr Christopher Rawson Penfold and fumed eucalyptus reflecting his new home, Australia. “This is such a befitting partnership,” Gago adds. “David Linley and his team of fine craftsmen share many of the values Penfolds has honoured since it was founded in 1844,” he says. “It is a pleasure to share such vision with LINLEY on this project.” In total, seven imperial (six litre) bottles have been crafted for the collaboration. Opening the case is an occasion in itself. It features a bespoke compass marked with intricate detail and precision engraving. To open each imperial case one must turn the precious jade inset dial to longitude and latitude coordinates of Magill Estate – (-34, 138) – Penfolds spiritual home. Only then can the case be opened, to reveal the bottle within. Other features include a detailed Penfolds crest on the box exterior, created using the meticulous and labour intensive discipline of marquetry inlay. A secret drawer has also been built into the box which is, according to David Linley “one of the most challenging features to include in a piece of furniture”. The drawer contains a stunning photographic journey of Kalimna Block 3C as well as a Certificate of Authenticity. The drawer lids will be customised by LINLEY with the purchaser’s name and bottle number (from one to seven). The imperial case also includes a synthetic hygrometer combined with a bimetal thermometer to measure the perfect room climate, a barrel inspired interior and a bespoke wine pourer. Contact: Peter Gago P: 61 8 8301 5400 E: peter.gago@tweglobal.com July 2014 – Issue 606

For further information, please contact Kauri NZ Tel: 0800 KAURIWINE NZ Fax: 04 910 7415 Email: winery@kauri.co.nz

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Grapegrower & Winemaker

THE BIG FOUR Jacob’s Creek goes for regionalisation with its reserve label

Australian branding: Bernard Hickin says the industry is only too aware Australian wine regions are still not widely recognised overseas.

The Pernod-Ricard group was ranked Number 2 in Grapegrower & Winemaker’s annual Top 20 list which appeared in our April issue. We invited Jacob’s Creek chief winemaker Bernard Hickin to take our readers behind the story of the brand GIVEN all that our company has been involved with over the years, it might surprise some people that I see the regionalisation of the Jacob’s Creek Reserve range as one of our foremost achievements. I do so for two reasons. The first is the significance of a large and successful brand making the conscious decision to focus on selected regions for its premium wines cannot be overestimated. Whatever the logistics involved – and I will talk about that in a moment – this was a pretty big call with global ramifications. Jacob’s Creek is now sold in more than 70 countries. And that leads me to the second reason. We saw this from the start as an international exercise, and one important for all Australian wine brands, not just Jacob’s Creek. I think all of us in the industry are only too aware Australian wine regions are still not widely recognised overseas. We are seen as making great wine, but it is usually wine from Australia, or broad regions such as South-East Australia, at best. Even those who know the names Barossa, Coonawarra or Yarra Valley don’t necessarily link them to specific wine styles. But those who do know about our regional strengths want that to change, and we at Jacob’s Creek were under increasing (albeit friendly) pressure from the international trade and trade media to do something about it. It was put to us quite regularly a brand with our global reach and reputation had a duty to get involved with the education process. I picked up a similar vibe when talking about the early success of the regional concept for our Reserve range with people from around the world at last year’s Savour event in Adelaide. They were impressed with the wines, delighted with our success, and insistent we were on the right track; and this was something which needed to be done.

FEW DOUBTS I think the only doubts I’ve heard expressed in the six or seven years since we started exploring the regionalisation concept have come from a few high-end wine writers who said

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they could see where we were going and why, but were worried we risked confusing the market or ruining what we already had. We thought about this too, but our view is the Reserve range, which we had introduced back in 2000, had established not just a place in the market but a profile of its own, and we could now do something more. Reserve has always been about adding an extra quality dimension for those who appreciate the reliability of the Jacob’s Creek brand. By adding regionalisation to the mix we felt we had something special to both reward current consumers of the range and attract new consumers. It also helps create a clearer distinction between the Classic range and the Reserve range. We road tested the idea, of course, and the overwhelming response when we said “hey, we’re thinking of going regional” was “do it”. This was back in about 2007. The other factor is the Reserve range is sold at a premium to our everyday Classic wines. This means we have scope to ensure we can continue the supply of premium fruit synonymous with the Reserve range, despite the constraints of now having only one region from which to pick, while offering consumers a cost-effective and approachable way to start exploring regional Australia. The main risk, as I’m sure is obvious to everyone reading this, is by linking each wine style in the range to a specific region we would have nowhere to go if that region had a bad year. However, we were confident through our supplier networks we would be able to access sufficiently high quality fruit even in a year when overall quality was down. Perhaps more importantly, we also felt this was all part of the regional story. After all, each wine reflects the year that was. That said, we try to make the most of the better years. Our make of 2011 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was smaller than 2010 or 2012 – the latter a really great year which, I’m happy to say, is in market now. So there is the backstory.

MAIN DECISIONS The three main decisions we had to make once we decided to take the plunge were how many regions, which regions with which styles, and how long a lead-time we would need. Our intention from the start was to focus on just three regions. And ‘focus’ is the key word. If many wine consumers overseas don’t even think in terms of Australia having regions, the last thing we wanted to do was to confuse with too many names and too many permutations. We wanted consumers to start making connections. If they want to try great Shiraz, they should think Barossa. Great Cabernet Sauvignon, think Coonawarra. Classic Chardonnay, think Adelaide Hills. Then when friends ask where the wine they are drinking comes from, they will say Barossa or Coonawarra or Adelaide Hills, not just Australia. The question of which regions to feature from launch date was reasonably straightforward. The Barossa was a given. It is already the best-known Australian region, was home to Jacob’s Creek, and the leading region for Shiraz, which has been by far the most popular wine in the Reserve range. What’s more, in many years, Barossa grapes dominated in the multi-regional Reserve Shiraz. Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon has a similar pedigree, and no-one we spoke with suggested other than that it had to be included.

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July 2014 – Issue 606

DIFFERENT APPROACH Adelaide Hills was the interesting choice, not because of its quality (I personally believe it is one of the best kept secrets of the Australian wine industry and about to really come into its own) but because it was going to mean the greatest style change in the Reserve range. Our Reserve Chardonnay had until then been a mix of fruit from Adelaide Hills, Langhorne Creek, Padthaway and some other regions. Moving to just Adelaide Hills was committing completely to a cool climate style: leaner, more elegant and very much in line with where consumer taste is heading, but still different from what Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay drinkers had known until then. Fortunately the response has been very positive, and the new style won us a trophy at

By linking each wine style in the range to a specific region we would have nowhere to go if that region had a bad year the 2013 Sydney Royal Wine Show for best one-year-old white (Class 33), which was a great result. As a winemaker I couldn’t be happier with it. It’s elegant, but has a bit of flesh on the bones and the all-important flavour on the mid palate, with ripe fruit characters in there. All of the wines reflect the character of the region, and that is what we were after. It’s clearly a Barossa Shiraz (rich flavours, with ripe plum and touches of spice, but still fresh and bright) and the Cabernet Sauvignon just screams Coonawarra, with the classic cassis, black currant and blackberry fruit notes. The thing I love about Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon is the amazingly fine textural tannins. And I mustn’t forget the other three wines in the range – the Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir and Barossa Riesling. They are all very much of their region, and all interesting wines. That has been the key for me as winemaker: to make wines which intrigue and encourage consumers to start asking questions – and explore more. In terms of timing, the big one for us was the Shiraz, because of the volumes we produce. We suspected we would need two to three years to work with our grower base to ensure a consistent supply of quality grapes which truly expressed the region’s characteristics, and our estimate was pretty spot on. I must point out the response from growers in all three regions was really positive and their help invaluable in making the 2010 launch a reality. So I’d have to say the whole process has been pretty seamless, which is quite something in an industry such as ours, where there are so many factors at play. Looking back, I think the only thing we might have done differently was to start the whole thing two or three years earlier. The market was probably ready for it. Looking ahead is not quite so clear. With the regional concept now nearly four years old and proving a great success, I am regularly asked when we are going to expand the range. The short answer is “when we think the market is ready for it”. July 2014 – Issue 606

For further information, please contact Kauri NZ Tel: 0800 KAURIWINE NZ Fax: 04 910 7415 Email: winery@kauri.co.nz

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Grapegrower & Winemaker

THE BIG FOUR We are still building consumer awareness of these three regions in international markets and we don’t want to lose momentum or focus. However, readers may be aware we recently took the opportunity to “experiment” a little here in our domestic market.

PROOF OF CONCEPT As part of the Jacob’s Creek sponsorship of the Hyundai Hopman Cup in Perth we released a Margaret River Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in December, and followed this in March with a Yarra Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Both were very limited runs (fewer

than 1500 and 1000 nine-litre cases respectively) and available only in their home states. I guess you could call this “proof of concept”. We wanted to see how other wines might fit into the range and how they would be received, and the response was very positive. This underlines the enormous potential of the regionalisation concept, and demonstrates why I rate it so highly in terms of our achievements. On a personal note, it has been great to be part of the next phase of the Jacob’s Creek story. I was a humble assistant winemaker back in 1976 when the first Jacob’s Creek

labelled wine appeared as part of what was called – fleetingly – the “Vineyard Series”. It included a Lyndale Riesling, which was around for about 10 years, a white wine called Mooroorroo that didn’t last long (perhaps because its name was almost unpronounceable) and the Jacob’s Creek red – a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet and Malbec. That went gangbusters from the start, but I don’t think anyone involved had any idea just how big it would become. Contact: Louisa Jarvis P: 61 2 8874 9377 E: Louisa.Jarvis@pernod-ricard.com

It’s not just about the wine mate, it’s the philosophy

Blend, blend and blend: Accolade Wines chief winemaker (premium), Paul Lapsley says “when you really understand wine you realise you can take two good things and make something outstanding”.

Accolades’ Paul Lapsley has been around the industry for a few years but he can still be overwhelmed by the sheer history of the product even though he is now the guy calling all the shots at the Number 3 business in our Top 20.

PUSH and prod every which way you like, but Accolade Wines chief winemaker (premium), Paul Lapsley simply isn’t going to nominate a single wine as being the outstanding achievement of the business. Without wanting to sound like an old crusty, he says it’s all about Hardys’ heritage – 161 years on and Thomas Hardy’s philosophy of producing the best wine by blending across the regions still drives the search to deliver the customer the absolute best at each price point. “It was something Thomas Hardy initiated all those years ago when he insisted blending wine from different regions could produce a better wine than most wines from a single region,” Lapsley says. “And it’s something we are still doing from Thomas and Eileen Hardy at the top of the range, through the HRB (Heritage Reserve Bin) range down through Nottage Hill,” he insists forcefully. “It’s not that we are rejecting terroir and single vineyard wines, they can be fantastic expressions of place, but when you really understand wine you realise you can take two good things and make something outstanding.” “I think we have continued to do that over the years. There has been an enormous amount of innovation in winemaking at Hardys, and the pantheon of brilliant winemakers who have been through this business have helped drive that.

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“But while we are playing with things like refrigeration to get brighter fruit flavours, whole bunch pressing, French oak and all those things … first and foremost it is going back to the philosophy underpinning tradition of this company – which is blending between regions.”

VINEYARD GENESIS Lapsley says the work has also had “tremendous support” from the viticultural teams who have been instrumental in developing new regions, and driving vineyards to achieve those standards which deliver the higher fruit quality. He says they have done pioneering work in the regions identifying the things it takes to produce the best fruit in each region – and it is different in every region.

It’s not that we are rejecting terroir and single vineyard wines, they can be fantastic expressions of place “You can’t just take a template that works in Margaret River, cart it down to Tasmania and expect it to work,” Lapsley explains. “Each region needs a different approach to make it work,” he says. “But it is those regional blends we keep coming back to. I think we were the first, via the HRB range, to blend Clare Valley and Tassie Riesling to get something really outstanding. “It is something we can do which few other businesses can match. “We have achieved national and international recognition with blends which have combined Cabernet from Coonawarra and Margaret River (HRB 2007) and Chardonnay from Pemberton and the Adelaide Hills (HRB 2009) and then we turned around the next vintage and went no, this year the best possible Chardonnay blend is going to come from taking wine from Pemberton and the Yarra Valley (HRB 2010) and the judges at the 2012 International Wine Challenge agreed with us awarding trophies to all three wines.”

SIGNATURE STYLE Lapsley says he believes the really sophisticated wine drinkers get it – each region does have its signature style. There’s Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon with all its black currant succulence and the more austere Coonawarra Cabernet. It’s just that a blend of both simply makes a better wine. He says that is the other thing about it, brilliantly qualified

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international judges have made their decision with their highlytrained palates but the average wine consumer does as well. “I know this is fighting talk, but arguably one of Australia’s best, and definitely best known premium wines, is a blend from more than 10 regions (Lapsley has had a stint at Southcorp, now Treasury Wine Estates, along with his time at Coldstream Hills)”. Pushed to nail his colours to the wall on individual wines Lapsley nominates Eileen Hardy Pinot Noir and the HRB 06 Shiraz, a blend of Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills fruit. “I think we [Hardys] were the first to try that, everyone said we were crazy, it wouldn’t work – but 10 gold medals later…” And just as you had that gotcha moment – Eileen Hardy Pinot’s all Tassie now isn’t it? Lapsley laughs back that the V13 is Yarra Valley and Tasmania (The 2012, according to him is also a blend … of regions within Tasmania). Contact: Anita Poddar P: 0417 819 978 E: Anita.Poddar@accolade-wines.com

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Grapegrower & Winemaker

THE BIG FOUR The creation Of Casella 1919 – a timeless gift were also created to celebrate his family’s legacy, its passion for winemaking and dedication, hard work and commitment to their craft.

THE VINEYARDS/REGIONS

Golden touch: John Casella produced the Casella 1919 to celebrate his family’s history and it has proved a success at every turn with more than 20 gold medals and trophies since its first release.

With almost a century of tradition as an Australian winemaker, the Casella family runs Australia’s largest family-owned operation, coming in at Number 4 in our Top 20. A heritage and an achievement John Casella has marked with the Casella 1919 – his signature release to celebrate his family’s story.

AS an award winning winemaker Casella Family Brands managing director John Casella wanted to personally create a wine he could use to give as a personal gift. Which led to the development of Casella 1919; two highly awarded reds that have won more than 20 gold medals and trophies between them. With a family history of winemaking stretching back to 1820, generations of the Casella family have been involved with the business since its inception in 1969. Casella says his baby, Casella 1919, was born out of his desire to create a premium wine from Australia’s best wine growing regions to showcase the exceptional quality fruit and expertise in winemaking the business can draw on. He says the wines represent the pinnacle of the Casella portfolio, and

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Casella has more than 2500ha of vineyards producing more than 27 varieties. It also sources fruit from 37 of Australia’s 59 premium wine growing regions including Wrattonbully, Padthaway, the Barossa Valley, and the Clare Valley. Casella is strategically represented in the Limestone Coast and Barossa Valley giving the company the ability to produce wines which capture the variety of flavours and intensity that are present, and have good options for blending. Casella 1919 wines are crafted from vineyards in premium and cool climate Australian wine regions. They are either from a single region or multi regions, depending on what makes the best blend. Depending on the season, Casella says the fruit for Casella 1919 will be sourced from South Australian regions; notably Wrattonbully, Padthaway, Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. “Select blocks which have historically been most outstanding are targeted for the Casella 1919 range,” he says. “The parcels of fruit sourced from these blocks are segregated and processed in the winery, undergoing traditional and modern winemaking. “Other blocks that show potential for Casella 1919 wine are identified by the viticultural and winemaking teams and are able to be kept separate in the winery for evaluation and grading. “This provides excellent opportunity for winemakers to evaluate fruit from a number of regions, observing influence of terroir.” Casella plays a significant part in the viticultural and winemaking teams to ensure the blocks identified meet his objectives for the creation of Casella 1919 wines.

LIMESTONE COAST VINEYARDS The fruit used in the 2006 Casella 1919 Cabernet Sauvignon has been sourced from a number of growers across the Limestone Coast region. In 2010 Casella purchased vineyards in Wrattonbully, part of South Australia’s Limestone Coast in a region of world heritage listed geology. He says Wrattonbully was chosen as he considers it to be the best wine growing region in Australia. It is known www.winebiz.com.au

for producing red wines of complexity and elegance. “The terra rossa soil layered over ancient limestone reef beds creates a fertile and free-draining environment ideal for low yielding vines,” Casella explains. “A temperate climate and slight elevation (75-105m above sea level) unique within the Limestone Coast, creates an extended growing season that allows fruit to ripen easily,” he says. “Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon has a softness and richness, characterised by ripe red berry fruit and elegantly complex tannins.”

BAROSSA VALLEY VINEYARDS The fruit used in the 2006 Casella 1919 Shiraz was all sourced from a single grower’s block in the Barossa Valley, South Australia. Casella also recently purchased vineyards there. As the most internationally recognised wine region in Australia, the Barossa is famous for Shiraz. The Barossa Valley was chosen by Casella as it has a known heritage and quality fruit. “The terrain varies from the valley floor to rolling hills and steeper slopes which rise up to the Mount Lofty ranges,” Casella says. “The climate is warm and dry with low relative humidity and rainfall during the growing season,” he adds. “Soils vary widely and the intricate pattern of hills and valleys results in many differing aspects on which to grow high quality grapes. “Casella 1919 Shiraz is made from grapes sourced from old vines from a variety of soil types from alluvial sands overlying schists and clays to black cracking Biscay soils. “The resulting wines are complex, with fragrant spice aromatics and rich chocolate flavours on the palate.”

HARVESTING AND WINEMAKING Only the best parcels of fruit from the 2006 vintage, taken from low yielding vines grown in vineyards selected by Casella are selected for Casella 1919. The wines will only ever be produced in seasons when the grapes are of the highest quality. Following a swift night harvest (in order to preserve ideal sugar and acid levels), the fruit is transported to the Casella winery. The grapes are crushed immediately upon arrival and inoculated with a July 2014 – Issue 606

select yeast strain before fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Unlike other wines in the Casella portfolio, which are largely made to analytical specs to ensure consistency from vintage to vintage, Casella 1919 wines are based on taste and quality. Fruit is selected in advance to receive special treatment in the winery, although the blend is often finessed after allocation tasting. The finished wine is then matured in a combination of French and American oak for 18-24 months. The oak used for Casella 1919 is predominately American as this complements the wine style of the range. The best barrels are then hand-selected by Casella for bottling. Casella 1919 is bottled under a Grade 1 cork closure, imported from Spain. Grade 1 cork has been selected since the inception of the winery’s premium ranges. “These closures have continued to perform extremely well in ensuring the wine is kept to a high quality and ages well,” Casella says. “After bottling, the wine is aged a further 12-18 months, before it is released commercially.”

TASTING NOTES Casella says the 2006 Casella 1919 Cabernet Sauvignon has an intense deep crimson colour and a complex aroma showing layers of fruit cake, red currants and toasted spice from the oak barrels. “Intense and rich flavours of red berries and liquorice fill the mouth and the well-integrated oak brings hints of dark chocolate and coffee,” he says. “Fine tannins, an elegant structure and a long-lasting finish allow the flavours of this wine to do the talking. “With the 2006 Casella 1919 Shiraz, this has subtle red brick hues and aromas of red stone fruit, cassis and freshly cracked black pepper. “Firm, full tannins balance the wine and add a velvety texture and mouthfeel.”

THE BRAND If you are wondering where the name comes from, the year 1919 bears great significance for the Casella family. It marks both the year the family’s forefathers Giuseppe Casella and Giovanni Patane returned from the Great War to teach their children the art of winemaking and the year a piece of land was granted to a solider settler in NSW. That small holding would become the home of the Casella winery. Today the wine which commemorates the family’s genesis in the wine industry is July 2014 – Issue 606

John Casella.

packed in a premium individual gift box, with a recommended retail price of $100. “Our family has a rich history; most importantly though, it is also modern and forward thinking,” Casella says. Maintaining around a five-year maturation release policy, the wines are produced in small quantities and are only available at independent bottle shops or by calling 61 2 9330 4752.

ACCOLADES Influential US magazine Wine Spectator granted both the Casella 1919 Cabernet Sauvignon and Casella 1919 Shiraz 91 points in a tasting of the Australian wines. That rating is only given to outstanding wines of exceptional complexity and character. This accolade comes after a gold medal was awarded to the Casella 1919 Cabernet Sauvignon at the Decanter Wine Show in May; an event Casella says is widely acknowledged as the most influential wine competition in the world. In February, the Sydney International Wine Competition awarded the 2006 Casella 1919 Shiraz the Kemenys Perpetual Trophy for best fuller bodied dry red table wine. This year’s show saw 369 Australian wineries submit 2400 wines, but only 30 were awarded a trophy. Contact: Ursula Williams P: 61 2 9330 4700 E: ursula.williams@casellafamilybrands.com www.winebiz.com.au

Grapegrower & Winemaker

winemaking New range of pneumatic presses, New models crushers & a selection of grape equipment

When wine’s wild man rode into town... No pain, no gain. Even in wine. Just ask the recently-singed Justin Lane, who knows how to pull more than a rabbit out of his hat when it comes to making wine, selling wine, celebrating wine and even spilling a few of those precious drops.

Roll the dice: Justin Lane has gone from alphabet soup to a whole new vocabulary in wine making – and marketing.

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10-16 Syme Street, Brunswick, Vic 3056 P: (03) 9388 0588 or (03) 9380 5438 F: (03) 9388 0710 M: 0419 345 394 E: talarc@bigpond.com.au www.tallarida.com.au 70 Grapegrower & Winemaker

ALPHA Box & Dice is short two vowels and a fistful of consonants. Big deal. Justin Lane, the man behind the brand, is talking so fast you would have no hope of knowing. This guy is literally jumping out of his skin with excitement about his wine, the wine of his friends, the wine he spilt last week, in fact any wine. His own wines were originally planned to fill an alphabet – like a traditional special bin range but without the numbers. He got from A to G, then scattered a couple more across the alphabet, and the rest is a work in progress. So you won’t be surprised to be told Lane adopted somewhat of a maverick approach to this most august and ancient of industries. No study for him. No time. A child of the Hunter Valley – but not from a family vineyard or winery – Lane has got where he is by, as he so cleverly puts it, “a road less travelled”. While many of his peers were slaving away at universities Lane was bouncing from one vineyard and/or winery to the next. Around Australia and around the world. Joining the cellar door at the fledgling McGuigan Wines back in the early ’90s Lane knew he was “home”. If you want to keep up with Lane, who by now is going 20 to the dozen, you have www.winebiz.com.au

to lean into the conversation, at which point you’re in danger of getting a good clip around the ears as he waves his arms around with wild enthusiasm. When Grapegrower & Winemaker caught up with him Lane was sporting a searing scar across his forehead, the result of getting too close to a downlight while trying to juggle a barrel at Cantina Sociale. Hang on. Cantina what? No, it’s not a hangout for Marxist agitators. At the quiet end of Sturt Street, in arguably the quietest corner of Adelaide’s CBD, this Energizer bunny has the local crowd hopping and bopping. With business partners Angie Bignell and Georgie Rogers they have opened a veritable hole-in-the-wall wine bar. Seating just 35, with a pyramid of nine barrels from floor to ceiling at one end, you would miss it if you blinked. With no signage of note, it has still become the darling of the online crowd. Opening from 4pm on Wednesdays to Sundays, Lane is religiously there three of those days every week. Which is when he is not scouring the 19 blocks of the 13 growers at McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Kuitpo, the Adelaide Hills and, of course, the Barossa whom he has contracted to supply Alpha Box & Dice. “I am a field man. If the fruit is not right no amount of science and trickery in the processing is going to give you a July 2014 – Issue 606

truly beautiful wine,” Lane thundered. “That was rammed into me during my ‘apprenticeship’ in the south of Italy, hammered into me in Bordeaux and not even escaped in Moldova,” he said. “Look at this,” he said waving those deadly limbs around the room causing regulars to grab their wine glasses and well-practiced staff to duck and weave across the small room. “No pretence, no branding, no labels. Just nine barrels of full-blooded, earthy wine. “None of the wines in these barrels is available for commercial release. When each one is gone that’s it. And we replace it with another.” The essence of Cantina Sociale is not as a shopfront for Alpha Box & Dice. The wines in those nine barrels come from all over the shop. They are all barrel-fermented, no filtration, no fancy tricks. And many of them are genuine one-offs because the rest of that vintage has gone into blends in other wineries. “It’s as close as I can get our customers to the traditional wine business, but I am going to have a real crack at it during the Adelaide Festival. “On the banks of the Torrens we are going to turn on a real lesson in wine

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history when we stage a Babylonian wine-making exercise, right down to amphorae.” It’s hard to know what slows Lane down enough to get a good night’s sleep. Clearly the cogs are always whirring; in those rare moments of hush in Cantina Sociale you can almost hear them changing gears. “This city is changing so fast,” he said. “For a long time it was so quiet, now all of a sudden things are happening everywhere, and so fast. “Although my hands might be a bit full running a winery, running a bar and raising three boys (and staging a fitness club at Heyward Park two mornings a week, much to the chagrin of the local council’s sticker licker who could do nothing to stop Lane’s gang of reprobates because it was a social, not commercial, gathering),” he added. Next minute his hands were full again – of a wine glass and a tea towel – so fidgety after being still for about 30 seconds. “Look at this,” he enthuses about the press of humanity in Cantina. “Wine does not discriminate. We get every demographic here. They don’t care about pretence either; they are just here for the wine.”

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Lane makes for a fascinating study. Take Alpha Box & Dice bottle D. D is for Dead Winemakers Society. And Dolcetto, the black Italian grape originally from the Piedmont region, from which it is extracted. Not surprisingly, Lane is also an office holder in the society of Dead Winemakers, which he said started as a lunch club in Australia. “But its founder was US wine critic Josh Raynolds,” Lane admitted. “Who has a fair slice of his cellar devoted to wines made by people who are, well, dead,” he said. “Spooky, yes. Tasty? Absolutely.” With one ear still stinging from an accidental slap, and struggling to find enough questions to catch up with Lane’s answers, one thing needed to be resolved. Alpha Box & Dice. “It sort of covers everything we do,” he said. “With all the things we are running we’ve got the whole box and dice. “And being in the wine business, well that’s always dicey isn’t it?” Not only did he get in the last word, he got in the last question. Contact: Justin Lane P: 61 410 487 739 E: j@alphaboxdice.com

Grapegrower & Winemaker

winemaking

French winemaker, German press, Tasmanian classic When Grapeworks delivered Frogmore Creek’s new Europress S120 it was a leap forward in production technology for which chief winemaker Alain Rousseau and his team had been waiting for. ALAIN Rousseau makes another short black coffee and begins to enthuse about the 2014 vintage just completed. The day is another bright, sunshine-drenched, autumnal Tasmanian mid-morning … cool, but not too cold. Rousseau is chief winemaker at Frogmore Creek, the vineyard and winery nestled on the gentle slopes of the Coal River Valley, overlooking Barilla Bay in Tasmania’s south. His second, 45ha wine base lies in Campania, 15 minutes north of the signature winery. Like all winemakers he deals with the inevitable ups and downs of vintage – this year down on volume but he raves about the corresponding quality of grapes and wine Frogmore will deliver. “With the Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, the quality is very good. The Pinot Noir is very rich and concentrated, as expected from the smaller yield this year – down from 8 tonnes per hectare to 5 – but the tannin structure is going to very good,” Rousseau says. Frogmore Creek makes a wide range of wines under its own label, and that of 42 Degrees South and Storm Bay – but is perhaps best known for its premium sparkling, Pinot Noir and Riesling wines. In fact, Rousseau is in the enviable position

ALAIN Rousseau hails from an old vigneron family in Vallet of the Loire Valley region of France. Formally trained at the prestigious Dijon University of Burgundy, he returned to the Loire to work at Château du Cléray. In 1991, Alain and his wife moved to Tasmania, working with Domaine A and Moorilla Estate for a decade, where he gained many accolades and awards for his Tasmanian wines. After a fouryear sojourn at the Sirromet winery in Southern Queensland, Alain returned to Tasmania in 2004 to join Frogmore Creek, where he continues to develop and refine its wine style.

The Frog in the creek: Frogmore Creek’s chief winemaker Alain Rousseau pictured in the winery’s barrel room.

of having his 42 Degrees South 2013 Pinot Noir increase sales substantially.

TECHNOLOGY PLAYS ITS PART

For further information, please contact Kauri AUS Tel: 1800 127 611 AUS Fax: 1800 127 609 Email: winery@kauri.co.nz

72 Grapegrower & Winemaker

NZ Tel: 0800 KAURIWINE NZ Fax: 04 910 7415 Website: www.kauriwine.com

This year, Frogmore Creek’s vintage was assisted by the purchase of a new press – an Australian first – the Europress S120, built by German firm Scharfenberger and imported by Australian distributor Grapeworks. The Europress S is a dual style pneumatic press – essentially two presses in one machine – another Australian first. The unit can be used as either a slotted open drum style press or as a closed drum tank press. “With sparkling wines, it is better pressed whole bunch, and being a 12-tonne press, we were able to put through 24 bins at a time, some eight and half tonnes,” Rousseau said. “The press is very versatile; you can remove the drains and use the vented cage to aid aeration and oxidation, which gives more stability to our sparkling wines. “For the more fragile, aromatic wines – Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling – the closed drum limits the oxidation, protecting the aromatics.” Frogmore Creek now makes some 20,000 cases of sparkling annually – from its premium 2008 Frogmore Creek Cuvee Evermore to the best-selling 42 Degrees NV South Sparkling. Rousseau also appreciates the Europress’ simplicity. “It is very strong, made all of stainless steel. But the main point for me is that all the electrical parts can be bought off the shelf in Hobart … any electrician can fix it. “For me, it is very important that it is easy to make it work. I can do the servicing myself by following the instruction booklet. “The drain is on the outside, so I can clean the inside with three minutes of hosing … and there is not one single skin left.

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July 2014 – Issue 606

Europress S features include: • Two presses in one – can be used as either an “open slotted” drum style press or as a “closed drum” tank style press. • External drains mean they are a single flat clean piece of stainless steel without any corners or hard to reach places; all residual grape material can be easily removed with just a hose and no residual bacteria harboured. • Larger drainage surface than a standard internal drain closed press, which equals faster draining and press cycles • Variable frequency driven main motor for smooth, quiet operation; gentle rocking during axial feeding and quick, controlled removal of dry skins. The drum accelerates through the top of the cycle and slows down automatically as the doors reach the bottom to speed up the emptying process without overloading the removal auger/conveyor or bin. • Full custom built stainless catwalk, leg extensions and skins elevator controlled from press. • Juice tray sensor with output to automated juice pump. Juice tray sensors include high low for stop start of the pump but also a fail-safe, third sensor that will pause the press program and rotate the drains up to the top to stop flow in the event of a pump failure and the juice level getting too high. • Twelve standard, custom press programs; space for more “owner specific” cycles • Intuitive touch screen control of all functions, with push button backup and remote control.

“Then I can unclip the drain, give it a blast with the high pressure hose and clip it back together in 20 minutes.” Frogmore Creek had a specially-designed big hopper built for the press, enabling Rousseau to more easily load the whole bunches of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes for the sparkling wines. Rousseau has now spent more than a decade with Frogmore Creek, his first vintage in 2004, still remembered for its wetness. “It rained every second day in March,” he laughs – leaving the winery with a massive sparkling base. “We had not one bottle and no disgorging equipment to make sparkling,” he remembers. But today Frogmore Creek has its own modern disgorging line and bottling unit that can deliver 2300 bottles an hour.

SOLID REPUTATION Rousseau’s reputation was cemented in Tasmania and Australia working at Domaine A vineyards from 1991-96 and then with Moorilla Estate from 1996 to 2000. He then had a four-year stint at Sirromet in the Granite Belt of Southern Queensland, before returning to Tasmania. Rousseau began his career in the Loire Valley, making wine with his late father Jean at their 10ha vineyard and Chateau du Cleray for eight years. “We made white wines such as Melon de Bourgogne, which was very similar to Chardonnay, in fact it is a parent grape to Chardonnay, and Folle Blanche, a very acidic, low in alcohol wine, using the same grapes as in Cognac. We also made Gamay and Cabernet Sauvignon.” It was this French style that he brought to Australia in the ‘90s, and instituted at Moorilla, the vineyard which now lies alongside the world-renowned MONA – Museum of Old and New Art – on the shores of the Derwent River in Southern Tasmania. July 2014 – Issue 606

Hop to it: Frogmore Creek’s newly-installed Europress S120, showing off its custom hopper for loading grapes.

“I was very French in my winemaking style, but now I am somewhere in between France and Australia … which I believe is typical in Australia now, where so many young Australian go to work in France and Europe. It is very ‘even’ now between the Old World and New World.” Rousseau talks about the cyclical nature of winemaking, how older trends have returned, but also the differences for small and large vineyards. “In the ‘80s, no-one was yeasting … but then dry yeast changed winemaking forever. There are now 50 different yeasts, which give us the characteristics we want to bring to different wines.

For the more fragile, aromatic wines – Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling – the closed drum limits the oxidation, protecting the aromatics Now many people are using wild yeast, so we are back to square one, if you like.” Rousseau makes small crafted batches of wines only for sale at the cellar door of Frogmore Creek’s award-winning restaurant, overlooking the vineyard. “We make our Frogmore Creek Evermore Riesling (2010), Gewürztraminer (2011), Chardonnay (2010), a Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Pinot Gris (2013). “I make the Pinot Gris as a French Alsatian style so that people who visit the cellar door can understand the difference between the Gris and Pinot Grigio … they can taste the texture and the light sweetness.” He admits he enjoys making the “speciality” wines, like all winemakers. “We experiment quite a bit. Winemakers are never ‘happy’,” Rousseau laughs, “even if we find the ‘perfect’ recipe, we will try to change it, to make it better … we are like artists that way.” Contact: Alain Rousseau P: 61 3 6274 5844 E: admin@frogmorecreek.com.au

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Grapegrower & Winemaker

winemaking

Do you really know what levels of trace metals are in your wine? Greg Howell at Vintessential Laboratories says Analytical trace metals may Services actually be a good thing in your wine – but only at the right levels. Because if the proportions get out of whack you could be in trouble, especially in export markets.

At a glance: • Trace metals are generally harmless and in fact can be essential micro nutrients for humans. • Most countries have legal limits on certain trace metals. Recent change in China is just one example of the need for winemakers to be more aware. • Testing has shown that more than 12 per cent of Australian wines were over the 0.5ppm limit for copper set by the US. • It is important that winemakers are aware of the key analytes such as copper and iron in their wines; as well as manganese if they are considering exporting to China.

WINE contains a number of metal ions in very small, that is, trace amounts. These trace metals are generally harmless and in fact can be essential micro nutrients for humans. But most countries have legal limits on the level of certain trace metals in wine. The recent change in limits on manganese in China is just one example of the need for winemakers to be aware of the levels of several key trace metals in their wines.

ESSENTIAL TRACE METALS NEEDED FOR GOOD NUTRITION Metal ions are found in both plant and animal cells in various forms and many are needed for sound human nutrition. The concentration of trace metals varies in different food sources; with some food sources prized for the quantities they can provide e.g. iron and zinc in red meat, calcium in dairy products(1). Figure 1 shows major elements and essential trace elements (sometimes also referred to as trace minerals) needed for human nutrition. Although we need these minerals, some can become harmful if their concentration is too high. Sodium is an example of an element that in modern societies is often found in processed foods above levels deemed safe. Before industrialisation, these concentrations were very low (2). A number of the major and trace elements are also found in wine although it appears they are not often considered when looking at health benefits of wine.

MANGANESE IN WINE One trace metal that has been of

74 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Major elements Name

Essential trace elements Symbol

Name

Symbol Mn

Sodium

Manganese

Magnesium

Iron

Phosphorus

Cobalt

Sulfur

Nickel

Ni Cu

Chlorine

Copper

Potassium

Zinc

Calcium

Selenium

Molybdenum

Iodine

Fig 1

Fig 2

intense interest to some Australian winemakers is manganese. This is because the Chinese authorities have begun to reject wine containing more than 2 ppm (mg/L) of the metal. This was discussed by the author in the Grapegrower & Winemaker May 2014 issue. Why the Chinese authorities have decided to set such a low limit and whether this level is based upon any legitimate health risk is unknown. www.winebiz.com.au

We do know however, many wines destined for China have been tested in our laboratories since this change in Chinese conditions was announced by Wine Australia. A summary of our manganese results to date as shown in Figure 2 indicates 26 per cent of these wines would not pass the 2 ppm limit placed by China. Interestingly the highest result that we have found is 10 ppm. Whether the currently imposed limit July 2014 – Issue 606

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winemaking of 2 ppm for manganese in wine destined for China is maintained will be up to the relevant authorities to discuss and consider. However, at this stage any Australian winery exporting to China would be wise to check the manganese levels in their wines.

OTHER TRACE METALS IN WINE The main trace metals we have tested in wine over many years are copper and iron. This is because of the prevalence of these trace metals in the winemaking process, the potential for creating copper or iron casse, and as they are limited by the regulations in certain countries. Copper in wine can arise from vineyard sprays, the addition of copper salts to remove sulfides that form during fermentation, and from winery equipment that contains copper (3) – although this last factor is less of an issue these days, at least in New World wine producing countries. The concentration of copper allowed in a number of countries is shown in Figure 3 (Byrne). It can be seen that this varies widely: the lowest is 0.5 ppm and highest 10 ppm. Again it is an important consideration for producers as our testing has shown that over 12 per cent of wines were over the 0.5 ppm limit set by the US (Byrne). As this is a major export destination for Australian wines it is another important testing parameter to consider. Iron can exist in trace amounts in wine and arises mainly from the vineyard; however contamination can occur from steel equipment that is used in the wine production process. Although this is less of an issue nowadays with most winery equipment being made of stainless steel. However, any non stainless steel that comes into contact with grapes or wine (e.g. bins or hoppers) can contribute to the total iron content (5). Other metals we have tested for over the years are the major elements potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, and the trace elements lead, tin, cadmium and arsenic (arsenic is not strictly a metal – it

REGION

MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE CONCENTRATION

UNIT

Argentina

1.0

mg/L

Canada

1.0

mg/L

China

1.0

mg/L

European Union

1.0

mg/L

Germany

2.0

mg/L

India

5.0

mg/L

Russia

5.0

mg/L mg/L

Singapore

7.0

South Africa

1.0

mg/L

Switzerland

1.0

mg/kg

Turkey

1.0

mg/kg

Vietnam

10.0

mg/kg

United States of America

0.5

mg/L

Fig 3

is a metalloid; i.e. it exhibits properties of both metals and non-metals).

LIMITS ON TRACE METALS IN WINE As stated above the allowable limit on a number of trace metals varies by country. This has been shown for copper, however the concentration limit for other trace metals also varies widely and it is important for wine producers to be aware of these limits and the concentration of the major ones in their wines.

MEASURING TRACE METALS – ICP VERSUS AAS We use the instrumental technique known commonly as ICP. This is an abbreviation of Inductively Coupled Plasma Optical Emission Spectroscopy. ICP is a very versatile technique as it allows a number of trace metals to be tested at the same time in the same sample. Unlike the other popular trace metal technique AAS (Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy) it does not require a separate lamp for each element and so it is therefore very quick to set up for a wide range of elements that have not been tested previously.

CONCLUSION Wine has been known to contain several trace metals in low levels for as

long as it has been possible to measure them. At low levels these trace metals are not harmful, in fact some can be essential for good human nutrition. The limits imposed on several trace metals by different countries do vary, as we have seen recently with manganese in China. It is important that winemakers are aware of the key analytes such as copper and iron in their wines; as well as manganese if they are considering exporting to China. Greg Howell is the founder and managing director of Vintessential Laboratories. His research for the Master of Science Degree was on trace metal analysis. Greg can be contacted by email on greg@vintessential.com.au. More articles on related topics are available on the Vintessential website: www. vintessential.com.au/resources/articles/

References:

1. Ulijaszek, S; Mann, N; Elton, S; Evolving Human Nutrition; Cambridge Press, 2013, pp 161-162 2. Ibid, pp 174-176 3. Zoecklein, B.W; Fugelsang, K.C; Gump, B.H; Nury, F.S; Wine Analysis and Production, Aspen Publishers Inc., New York, 1995, pp 200-201 4. Byrne, S; Petiole and wine Analysis, Paper presented at the 15th AWITC, 2013 Sydney. 5. Rankine, B; Making Good Wine, Pan Macmillan, 1989, pp 244-245

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July 2014 – Issue 606

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July 2014 – Issue 606

sales & marketing

On-Premise: So many markets, and so many decisions In this final of three articles on wine influencers, researchers Steve Goodman and Cullen Habel compare Australia with two of the world’s most lucrative markets and see what makes On-Premise buyers select the wines they do – and how you can get their attention. THE purpose of this paper is to present to comparisonsegmented results for the On-Premise sectors of Australia (AU), the US and China (CH). The results are represented from the perspective of ‘what does a wine-marketer need to be aware of in designing their approach for selling their wine?’ As such, you’ll see here we’ve highlighted the differences in influence strengths between the markets in various segments. The underlying thinking, if you are looking to approach a new On-Premise account, is if there's something about them, their size, the number of distributors they deal with or style of dining, that gives insight into what is more likely to influence their decision. It all goes back to the marketing premise of understanding your customers. In the research we do, this is the premise behind using empirical data to support the thinking that just might help you in selling your wine in and growing your business.

Fig. 1 On premise retailers wine attribute importance

At a glance: • In China brand is king, but the On-Premise market there is also heavily influenced by the opportunity to buy in vintage/ aged wines. • That parcel of ‘museum stock’ you may have regarded as a problem just might be seen by the Chinese On-Premise market as the asset your winemaker believes it to be. • In the US and here it is 50 per cent more worthwhile to ensure managers have tasted the product; and when you see the influence of matching to food include chefs in this mix.

Figure 1 shows the overall market comparisons and gives some good immediate insight. In this style of analysis, the relative importance represents the chances of that attribute being the one that influences the decision; so if it is two times the height, then think of it as two times the influence. In China, just like previous consumer research (available at the URL below), brand is king, but the On-Premise market there is also much more influenced by the opportunity to buy in vintage/aged wines. This offers something to Australian wineries, especially smaller producers who are typically sitting on ‘museum stock’. That parcel of inventory that you may have regarded as a problem just might be seen by the Chinese On-Premise market as the asset your winemaker believes it to be. From this, we wouldn’t look at moving this in AU or US – this represents an opportunity for you in CH. The US and AU are much more influenced by having had the support of ‘liking the taste’ – so in the US and AU it is 50 per cent more worthwhile to invest in ensuring managers have tasted the product; this goes further when you see the strength of the influence of matching to food – so include the chefs in this mix. The US On-Premise market is much more influenced by the listing fees paid by distributors – have you ensured your distributor in the US is in the right vicinity? If not maybe you need to co-develop a strategy here.

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sales & marketing Figure 2 shows the comparisons when segmenting by ‘casual dining’; yes, casual dining is going to be very different in these three markets, but a ‘casual dining account’ is easily identified within the market. China sees a considerably higher influence in terms of ‘vintage and aged wine’ and ‘medals and awards’ than AU and the US. If you are looking to sell into this market, which in CH is relatively uncluttered with AU wines compared to the fine dining segment, then look at what you can offer here and match it to the influencers on the business decision. This segment sees the US and CH more influenced by brand than AU, which is much more influenced by ‘matching the food’ and ‘manager likes it’. Qualitatively, feedback we received was not of specific wine: food matching, more by style; Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio in Italian cafes, Riesling and Sauvignon Blancs in seafood venues and that these were ‘business level decisions’ rather than specific-wine based.

Fig. 2 Casual Dining

On-Premise Attributes 1 Margin 2 Lack of retail availability 3 Contribution to menu printing 4 Table ‘talker’/ on table promotion 5 Press write ups and reviews 6 Medals and awards won 7 Vintage/aged wine 8 The distributor 9 Match to food on menu 10 Chef’s choice 11 Grape variety 12 Listing fee/rebate paid by distributor 13 Origin/region 14 Brand 15 Tastes good (manager or sommelier likes)

Fig. 3 Fine Dining (China "Western Fine Dining'"

When we look at fine dining (Figure 3) we see the influence of food matching in the US and AU rise to prominence. Interesting is the difference in the importance of ‘margin’ in CH in this segment. Speaking with the researchers who collected this data faceto-face revealed in this segment in CH, ‘western fine dining’, wine was seen as ‘the’ ticket to generating profit. Look at this in conjunction with CH high level of ‘brand’ influence and think names such as Latour, Lafite, and Grange etc. The role of western fine dining in CH and its relationship with business and entertaining, social standing and the concept of face and status, wine takes on a role of ‘big ticket’ and ‘big margin’. The suggestion here is if you do not have a big brand then the CH market is going to be quite difficult at the western fine dining level. But don’t let that put you off; there are tens of thousands of casual and family dining venues which do offer you a route to market. Across all three markets, we see a similar level of influence in terms of ‘sommelier/manager likes taste’, ‘grape variety’ and ‘origin/region’ – some things don’t change. There are differences across a range of other segments; high and low margin, high and low volume wine sales, wine bars versus restaurants and high number versus low number of suppliers. All these results have been made available at the URL below, or by emailing the authors. They are simple to read as the differences show up well, and intuitively, in the way we have presented the data.

80 Grapegrower & Winemaker

Have a look at the differences, then look at how you and your distributor shape your offer and approach the segments concerned. It doesn’t always mean you can’t compete, it means you tailor which points of your offer you emphasise. It is about understanding your customer and what they are interested in – then talking about that to them rather than things that just don’t matter. And remember, there is so much from this research that gives you insights, all made available – and if you want to talk it offer in relation to your own wine – drop us a line.

About the authors: Steve Goodman is a senior lecturer in marketing at The University of Adelaide Business School, specialising in wine business research. Contact: steve.goodman@adelaide.edu.au Cullen Habel is an independent market research consultant and adjunct lecturer in marketing and market research at the University of Adelaide. Contact: www.cullenofadelaid.com This research has been funded by the Grape and Wine Research Development Corporation (GWRDC) and looks at the influencers on the decisions of Distributors, On- and Off-Premise buyers when they look to buy in a new wine. Copies of those articles are available at http://www.adelaide.edu.au/wine2030/ research/fields/ or by emailing the authors. Further analysis enables us to see and show how these segments differ across the three markets of the US, Australia and China. Here, we’ve presented this work comparing three markets at a level to assist in decision making – there is much to it and the authors are happy to discuss further with those interested in further insights. Charts of the full comparisons are available at the address above. The full design and method – and supporting rationale of this research is available in the papers published at the URL above

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July 2014 – Issue 606

business & technology

Top tips for keeping your workplace out of danger This month Grapegrower & Winemaker’s Stephanie Timotheou looks at health and safety in the workplace, how to identify and prevent a hazard and what to do if an accident or injury occurs. Treasury Wine Estates and d’Arenberg also discuss what they do to maintain health and safety practices from vineyard to winery. FARMING and agriculture are among the most dangerous fields of work in Australia. But while the wine industry is part of this ‘risky business’, fatalities have remained low with just three deaths reported in 10 years to 2012. That’s according to independent statutory agency Safe Work Australia which is responsible for improving occupational health and safety and workers’ compensation arrangements across the nation. While the number of deaths in the wine industry are minor when compared to other industries, there were more than 3000 serious claims accepted for compensation between 2000 and 2012 (see table 1). Safe Work Australia says the number of claims decreased from a high of 350 in 2005-06 due to greater awareness of health and safety in the workplace. “Businesses have a legal obligation to health and safety in the workplace to minimise the risk to their workers,” the company tells Grapegrower & Winemaker. “This includes reducing hazards from plants, machinery, chemicals and manual tasks. “It’s important that policies are put in place to ensure wine businesses can continue to meet these obligations and operate safely and efficiently.” Year

Number of Serious claims

2000-01

280

2001-02

280

2002-03

295

2003-04

295

2004-05

345

2005-06

350

2006-07

310

2007-08

280

2008-09

275

2009-10

240

2010-11

205

2011-12 (preliminary)

230

Grand Total

3380

In meeting this duty, the employer must ensure the following: • The provision and maintenance of a working environment that is safe and without risks to health, including safe access to and from the workplace • The provision and maintenance of plant, structure and systems of work that are safe and do not pose health risks (e.g. providing effective guards on machines and regulating the pace and frequency of work) • The safe use, handling, storage and transport of plant, structure and substances • The provision of adequate facilities for the welfare of workers • The provision of information, instruction, training or supervision to workers • The health of workers and the conditions of the workplace are monitored to prevent injury or illness. The WHS laws have been adopted in all jurisdictions except WA and Victoria, though the current laws in these states include similar requirements.

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Table 1: Number of serious claims from 2000 to 2012.

RESPONSIBILITIES OF AN EMPLOYER An employer has the primary duty of care under the Work Health and Safety Act (WHS). This duty requires the employer to ensure workers are not exposed to health and safety risks arising from the business. “They must do this by eliminating risks to health or safety or, if this is not practicable, minimising risks as much as possible,” Safe Work Australia says. July 2014 – Issue 606

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business & technology These guidelines apply to crushers or de-stemmer augers, must pumps, bottling equipment and any other plant or chemical used in the workplace.

IDENTIFYING AND PREVENTING A SAFETY HAZARD Some of the most common hazards faced by workers in vineyards and wineries include operating equipment on hillsides and uneven terrain, pushing and lifting heavy bins, barrels, pumps, hoses or mixers, using pruning shears and picking knives, working with hazardous chemicals and entering confined spaces. A worker or employer can prevent most workplace injuries and illnesses if they identify workplace hazards and take steps to control them. This involves eliminating the hazard entirely or minimising the risks as much as possible, which can be done by: • Selecting appropriate safety features when purchasing or replacing equipment • Modifying work processes or equipment • Developing and implementing safe work procedures for hazardous tasks • Ensuring workers use appropriate protective equipment and follow safe work procedures

PUTTING REGULATIONS INTO PRACTICE Most Australian wineries and vineyards have standard operating procedures and policies in place to prevent health and safety hazards. McLaren Vale’s d’Arenberg says the company is committed to providing a safe system of work for its employees and contractors. As well as having a range of processes in place, a number of employees across all departments have attended training sessions to attain their WH&S Certificate III. The company continues to host regular internal and external training courses for

its employees to ensure they are kept up-to-date with work health and safety practices. Among a range of health and safety projects already in place at d’Arenberg, the winery has implemented: • Multiple eye wash and shower stations • Upgraded stairwells and handrails • Catwalks over concrete open fermenters • A dedicated winery chemical mixing shed • Electric forklifts to reduce emissions in closed areas • Thermal and fire sensor alarm systems One of the bigger players in the market, Treasury Wine Estates (TWE), also takes work health and safety seriously. Corporate affairs manager Sue Rana says traffic, in particular, is a hazard which is often overlooked. “We have a wide variety of vehicles operating in all parts of our business – tractors, harvesters, trucks, forklifts and cars driven by sales representatives as they visit customers,” she says. “These vehicles are all essential to our work but can be hazardous without the right training and site management systems.” Within TWE’s wine production business, all vineyard and winery sites have traffic management plans (TMP) in place. These plans define how drivers operate vehicles on site and how pedestrians are required to behave when around those vehicles. “The TMP sets the pathway for vehicles to traverse the site including loading areas for forklifts, pedestrian exclusion zones and crossings and driver safety zones,” Rana says.

to wear hi-visibility clothing and safety boots.” Rana says it is vital to have a traffic standard that everyone on site is aware of and complies with to ensure a safe and productive operation. “Having all stakeholders involved in the development of these plans increases understanding of our overall traffic safety requirements and commitment to compliance,” she says. “In developing these plans we consult with our workforce, external carriers who visit our sites and best practice standards in other comparable industries.”

REPORTING AN ACCIDENT, HAZARD OR INJURY Safe Work Australia says workers should report accidents and other incidents (including things such as near misses) to their supervisor and report a hazard that may endanger others in the future, a problem with equipment, a violation of the regulations or other legal requirements. Australian government - both the commonwealth and the states and territories - also retain the responsibility for regulating and enforcing all the work health and safety laws operating in their jurisdiction. The contact details for each state and territory regulators can be found at the link: www.safeworkaustralia.gov. au/sites/swa/about/who-we-work-with/ pages/who-we-work-with. Contact: Safe Work Australia P: 1300 551 832 E: info@swa.gov.au

PLANNING PROVIDES THE GROUND RULES

Sue Rana P: 61 8 8301 5880 E: sue.rana@tweglobal.com

“The plan defines the speed limit and location for stop and give-way signs and sets the requirement for pedestrians and drivers when outside their vehicle

Tash Stoodley P: 61 8 8329 4825 E: tash@darenberg.com.au

Convert your surplus stock into cash • We can quickly move large quantities of packaged wine to the domestic market. • We can sell your excess stock quietly without damaging your brand. • We are not a broker - we will purchase the wine directly from you. For all enquiries please contact Philip Heyman P 1300 667 602 F 03 9415 9057 M 0418 555 655 E philip@destinywines.com.au

82 Grapegrower & Winemaker

www.winebiz.com.au

July 2014 – Issue 606

looking forward 2014

Australia & New Zealand

looking back

July

We step back in time to see what was happening through the pages of Grapegrower and Winemaker this month 10, 20 and 30 years ago.

15-17 (JD) The Spiegelau International Wine Competition Marlborough, NZ. www.spiegelauiwc.co.nz

28 Australia's Wine List of the Year Awards 2014 Sydney, NSW. www.winelistoftheyear.com.au

18 (CD) Riverina Wine Show Griffith, NSW. www.riverinawinemakers.com.au

August

July 1984

19-20 Taste of the Tamar Hobart, TAS. www.tasteofthetamar.com.au

1-31 Fireside Festival Canberra Region, ACT. www.thepoachersway.com.au

21-24 (JD) 2014 Cowra Wine Show Cowra, NSW. www.cowrashow.com

1 (CD) 2014 Royal Melbourne Wine Awards Ascot Vale, VIC. www.rasv.com.au/wine

21 (CD) NSW Small Winemakers Wine Show Central Ranges, NSW. www.nswwineshow.com.au

2-3 (JD) Heathcote Wine Show 2014 Heathcote, VIC. www.heathcotewinegrowers.com.au

23-25 Australian Winter School Conference Brisbane, QLD. www.winterschool.info

2-3 Taste of the Blackwood Bridgetown, WA. www. tasteoftheblackwood.com.au

25-27 Winter Blues Festival Echuca, VIC. www.winterblues.com.au

5-6 (JD) New World Wine Awards Wellington, NZ. www.wineshow.co.nz

25 (CD) Yarra Valley Wine Show Healesville, VIC. www.yarravalleywineshow.com.au

5 Tasmania Unbottled 2014 – Melbourne Melbourne, VIC. www.winetasmania.com.au

26-27 Winter Reds - Capture the Season Adelaide Hills, SA. www.adelaidehillswine.com.au

7 Tasmania Unbottled 2014 – Brisbane Fortitude Valley, QLD. www.winetasmania.com.au

27 Glenlyon Fine Food & Wine Fayre Glenlyon, VIC. www.glenlyon.vic.au

8 (CD) Australian Cool Climate Wine Show Murrumbateman (Canberra Region), NSW. www.murrumbateman.org.au

International July 16-18 BevTek China 2014 Shanghai, China. www.chinabevtek.com

25-27 International Pinot Noir Celebration Oregon, USA. www.ipnc.org

16-19 14th International Festival of Wine & Cheese Santa Cruz, Bolivia. www.festivaldevinosyquesos.com

August

20-23 Steamboat Pinot Noir Conference Oregon, USA. www.steamboatpinot.com

JD = judging date CD = closing date

11-15 (JD) China Wine & Spirits Awards 2014 Hong Kong. www.cwsa.org

22-24 (JD) Japan Wine Challenge Tokyo, Japan. www.japanwinechallenge.com

July 2014 – Issue 606

www.winebiz.com.au

Winery workers in Victoria and NSW have been granted a 38-hour week, more than two years after negotiations began with employers. An Arbitration Commission Full Bench headed by Mr Justice Coldham ratified an agreement between 34 wine companies and the Australian Workers’ Union for the reduction in working hours. The ACTU estimates more than 80 per cent of the workforce is now working 38 hours or less.

July 1994 Three scientists from the AWRI have been presented with an American award for their work in discovering the flavour secrets of Chardonnay, one of Australia’s most popular dry white wines in recent years. The award for best oenology paper was bestowed by the American Society of Enology and Viticulture (ASEV), one of the largest professional societies for oenology and viticulture in the world. Recipients of the prize were Mark Sefton, Leigh Francis and Dr Pat Williams for their paper titled ‘The volatile composition of Chardonnay juices: a study by flavour precursor analysis’ as published in the ASEV journal during 1993.

July 2004 Winemakers and grapegrowers have agreed on a framework that will provide much stronger guidelines for the evaluation of fruit which, if adopted, will greatly reduce the uncertainty that exists in winemaker and grapegrower relations. The publication, titled Winegrape assessment in the vineyard and at the winery, has been developed by Winemakers’ Federation of Australia and former Winegrape Growers’ Council of Australia, who has formed the Wine Industry Relations Committee.

Grapegrower & Winemaker

sales & marketing

FIND YOUR SUPPLIER QUICKLY WITH OUR July 2014 Advertiser List Supplier Agnova

Page

Supplier

Page

MGA Insurance Brokers

Agrimm Pty Ltd

MIA Vine Improvement Society

Aust & International Agri Exchange

New Zealand Frost Fans

Bayer

Pastro Custom Ag

Bibber International

Pellenc Australia

Braud Australia

PFG Australia

Bruce Gilbert Vine Grafting

Plastic Precise Parts

31, 33

R.D. Tallarida Engineering

Destiny Wines

Randox Food Diagnostics

Dow

Rapidfil

Eppendorf South Pacific

Rutherglen Agricultural Society Inc.

Ryset (Aust)

South Australian Wine Industry Assoc

Cropcare

Farmoz Finlaysons

24,25,26,27 79

61, 85

Fischer Australis

Spagnolo Engineering

FMR Group

Streamline Cartons

Grapeworks

Syngenta Australia

2, 88

GreenTech International

Vine Industry Nursery Association

Groguard Australia

Vine Sight

Harcourts Huon Valley

Vinewright

JMA Engineering

Viniquip

Whitlands Engineering

Kauri Australia

63,65,72

Ledgard

Winefile

MEP Instruments

Wine Storage and Logistics

AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND GRAPEGROWER & WINEMAKER *Australia's largest circulation wine industry trade magazine celebrating more than 50 years of publication. *Now available online to all subscribers. *All Marketplace adverts also appear on Winebiz Classifieds * For advertising enquiries please call Chas Barter on 08 8369 9513, c.barter@winetitles.com.au

Winebiz Calendar

Australia’s most comprehensive list of wine industry related local and international events and courses – available online FREE! Search for conferences, trade shows, competitions, courses, festivals & Australian & international wine shows.

www.winebiz.com.au/calendar

Winebiz online Buyers’ Guide Equipment, Supplies & Services for the wine & grape industry www.winebiz.com.au/guide 84 Grapegrower & Winemaker

www.winebiz.com.au

July 2014 – Issue 606

Marketplace

All advertisements also appear on www.winebiz.com.au/classifieds/

VINEYARD REMOVAL / RE-WORKING • Providing professional services in Vineyard Removal with rates per Ha. • Tom & his team have gained a high reputation in all regions Australia Wide.

Quality Grapevines

• Pulling vines is the sole business for Vine Sight.

Tom Stephens 0428 443 263

Paul Wright PO Box 180 Mt Pleasant South Australia 5235 Ph 08 8568 2385 www.vinewright.com.au

www.vinesight.com.au

MIA Vine Improvement Society

Cradoc Lot 1 1854 Cygnet Coast Road Panorama Vineyard Tasmania

Griffith, NSW Providers of certified, quality vine and prune material. Available in 2014 are rootstocks and vinifera. For your copy of our 2014 Order Form please contact us! P 02 6968 1202 F 02 6968 1479 M 0412 699 476 E miavis@exemail.com.au

VINE GRAFTING

Located in the picturesque Huon Valley Wine Region Panorama Vineyard is the longest est. commercial vineyard in the area with a reputation for producing high quality wines for the local, national & international market. Panorama offers a large modern winery with offices, cellar door, VIP room, a modern bottling plant, a laboratory & 400 barrel climate controlled barrel hall. In addition to this 6.8ha title there are additional titles with vines, a homestead, stock & other items available. Positioned 40 minutes from Hobart & 5 minutes from Cygnet. For Sale $1,800,000 View

WINE PRESS SERVICING • Preventative maintenance & breakdown repairs for all makes and models. • 24/7 coverage during vintage • Large inventory of spare parts. • Membrane replacement. • PLC upgrades and design improvements. Electrical & mechanical expertise.

03 9455 3339 • www.rapidfil.com.au

www.harcourts.com.au/THH5362 Nick Bond P 6264 0000 M 0488 640 024 E nick.bond@harcourts.com.au Harcouts Huon Valley

Vine / Tree Guards Cane Support Tabs

Bruce Gilbert 0428 233 544 Brian Phillips 0417 131 764 fax 03 5025 2321

brucethegrafter@gmail.com www.brucethegrafter.com

65 x 65 x 480 Most popular vine size

Vine Industry Nursery Assoc.

www.vina.net.au

Vintage Overseas?

95 x 95 x 300 2 Lt Milk carton size

75 x 75 x 400

Staple around for bushier trees 75 diameter x 420

• Low cost protection against spray, rabbits, wind etc. • Long field life of18 months plus • Available in white poly coated cartonboard • Suit vines, trees, olives, citrus etc • Supplied flat in boxes • Just square up and ready to go • Comes with indent cane holder

Streamline Cartons Ph 1800-227866 Fax (08) 8260 2387

Talk to us!

www.bibber.com.au

info@bibber.com.au I 08 8374 0077

July 2014 – Issue 606

www.winebiz.com.au

Grapegrower & Winemaker

Marketplace

www.streamlinecartons.com.au sales@streamlinecartons.com.au Supplying vine growers for the past 12 years

Marketplace

All advertisements also appear on www.winebiz.com.au/classifieds/

WANT TO WORK & TRAVEL OVERSEAS? Opportunity to gain additional experience Record overseas experience on you C.V.

• Work in America or in Europe during their current Vintages • Meet with people of your age from other countries • Have Oenology qualifications along with some practical experience • Departure in August and September • Minimum of THREE months work • Paid an allowance while working • Aged between 20 and 35 years

A life-time of opportunity

• Searchable • Easy to use • Wine industry personnel ONLINE PHONEBOOK

PO Box 3093 KEW, Victoria 3101 Ph (03) 9818 2395 – Fax (03) 9818 7255 Email: auintagx@bigpond.com Web: www.agriculturalexchange.com

VISIT www.winebiz.com.au/widonline to Access*

To advertise in this space, contact Chas Barter on (08) 8369 9513 or c.barter@winetitles.com.au

*Wine Industry Personnel Phonebook available only to those who have purchased the Wine Industry Directory (purchase includes annual subscription to WID Online) Published by:

PROVIDING SOLUTIONS TO THE WINE INDUSTRY

To order your copy: Phone: +618 8369 9509 Email: orders@winetitles.com.au Visit: www.winebiz.com.au

Don't rely on what you hear on the grapevine NEW 2014! Facebook & Twitter account listings Comprehensive and up-to-date grape and wine industry resource We’ve been doing this for over 30 years Includes snapshot of the industry thorough annual statistical overview

Marketplace

Now available in PRINT and ONLINE! If you’re involved with any facet of the industry, The Directory is an invaluable reference for sourcing information

PROVIDING SOLUTIONS TO THE WINE INDUSTRY

86 Grapegrower & Winemaker

To order your copy - Ph: +618 8369 9509 Email: orders@winetitles.com.au Visit: www.winebiz.com.au

www.winebiz.com.au

July 2014 – Issue 606

Don't rely on what you hear on the grapevine Comprehensive and up-to-date grape and wine industry resource We’ve been doing this for over 30 years Includes snapshot of the industry thorough annual statistical overview Now available in PRINT and ONLINE! • 7,000 Industry listings • 9,000 Personnel • 3,100 Wineries • 4,800 Wine brands • 1,500 Grapegrowers • 2,200 Buyers’ guide listings • 280 Distributors & retailers • 180 Writers & media

PLUS

NEW 2014! FACEBOOK & TWITTER account listings

+ Statistics + 2013 Overview + Calendar of events + Wineshows + Courses + Organisations

If you’re involved with any facet of the industry, The Directory is an invaluable reference for sourcing information

PROVIDING SOLUTIONS TO THE WINE INDUSTRY

To order your copy - Ph: +618 8369 9509 Email: orders@winetitles.com.au Visit: www.winebiz.com.au

Peace of mind for reliable control of Powdery Mildew • Powerful on Powdery Mildew • High quality micronised formulation • Optimum particle size • Excellent water dispersion and suspensibility

FLAME_SYN1419_06/14

Talk to your local distributor to find out more about Syngenta’s solutions or visit www.syngenta.com.au. Syngenta Crop Protection Pty Limited, Level 1, 2-4 Lyonpark Road, Macquarie Park NSW 2113. ABN 33 002 933 717. ® Registered trademark of a Syngenta Group Company. ™ Trademark of a Syngenta Group Company. All products written in uppercase are registered trademarks of a Syngenta Group Company. AD14/311