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An organic chocolate does not necessarily means a quality chocolate. Just like for any other of its chocolates, Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL wanted to provide perfect quality and utmost taste to the field of organic chocolates. This issue of our Journal will introduce you to the ever-growing world of organic farming, and to its applications in chocolate making. Chocolately yours, Michel CLUIZEL
April 2011
ORGANIC Chocolate
special report
The ORGANIC chocolate Organic products are a definite trend, in every sector of the food industry, because they transmit values mainly related to the environment. What about the organic chocolate in this increasingly transforming scene ?
Birth of organic produce Before WWII, by essence, the whole global agriculture was organic: pesticides, fungicides and fertilizers were only natural (manure). Not to mention GMOs (genetically modif ied organisms), which did not even exist back then. The need for productivity that appeared after the WWII (The Marshall Plan, intensive farming) triggered the use of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. The objective then was to feed populations. Excesses resulting from productivism led consumers to ask for more natural products, and therefore led to the birth of organic produce. Nowadays, scientif ic progresses, the economic situation and the increase of farming areas dedicated to non-food crops changed the deal. And a number of agriculturists, doctors, farmers and consumers tend towards an agriculture based on ethical and environmental principles.
Definition Nowadays, in France, to be rated “organic”, a product must contain at least 95 % of organic farming ingredients, and the remaining 5 % have to be from a precise list of products that were off icially recognized as insuff iciently produced for organic farming. It has to be
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pesticide-free, chemical-herbicide free, synthetic fertilizerfree, growth hormone-free and GMO-free. Organic production, which is managed comprehensively, encourages agrosystem and biodiversity. In 1981, France off icially recognized organic farming and created a National Committee in charge of its organization and development. Then, the European Union implemented its own set of rules in 1991, based on the same major principles, applying to crop productions, and from August 24th, 2000 on, to animal productions.
The French market Organic farming is soaring, even though it remains in a minority position in comparison with traditional farming. In 2009, it only amounted to 2.5 % the cultivated lands. And in order to comply with the objectives set by the French policy conference on the environment (Grenelle de l’Environnement), they should reach 6 % by 2012. In 2009, the market of food products from organic farming was estimated to 3 billion euros, i.e. 1.9 % of food industry market. Sales of organic food products are growing in spite of the economic crisis. According to Agence Bio, it increased by 18 % in 2009 (compared to 2008 figures), and the trend was confirmed in 2010. In collective catering, the use of organic pro-
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ducts also increased: the share of these restaurants providing organic dishes went from 36 to 40 % in 2010. According to a poll made in October 2009 about “the consumption and perception of organic products”, 1 French person out of 4 consumes one or several organic products on a regular basis, 1 out of 2 at least once a month, 26 % at least once a week and 9 % on a daily basis. Fruit and vegetable ride high (80 %), followed by dairy products (71 %), eggs (62 %), groceries (56 %) and meat (49 %).
The European market It has been growing ever since 1997. In 2008, Europe alone accounted for 45 % of organic products world sales. Germany leads the way, accounting for 30 %, and is followed by France, Great Britain and Italy, which altogether stand for 40 % of the European market. As for the organic chocolate, it follows the general trend, with an increase in certif ied organic chocolate sales. However, within the market of chocolates and cocoa products, the share of organic produce remains very low, accounting for 0.8 % of market volume (15 000 to 20 000 tons per year). According to the FAO* analysts, the demand should increase during the current decade.
The organic chocolate Ingredients used to make organic chocolate do not contain any chemical, fertilizer or pesticide. Ingredients such as vanilla, cocoa, sugar and milk have to be purchased from certif ied organic producers. Most cocoas are in fact organic, small producers not being able to afford pesticides or other industrial products. In addition, a number of chocolate makers show a proactive attitude towards their process: they are willing to create long-lasting relations with their planters, in order to guarantee the quality of their products and a better salary to their producers. Moreover, the making of chocolate includes other ingredients than cocoa.
Organic or traditional chocolate ?
higher than the price of traditional chocolate. It can be as much as 30 % higher. There are many reasons for this, ranging from production costs to certif ication. In terms of production, eff iciency tends to be lower: diseases and parasites tend to develop more on cocoa trees that are not grown using chemicals. Labor cost is also higher, since organic farming requires more workforce, and employees being better paid, in order to comply with fair trade principles. Organic chocolate production resorts to organic product providers, and therefore, the whole industry network has to comply with organic specif ications.
This chocolate, which required the complete adaptation of the chocolaterie production process, is rated Qualité France, and 100 % organic.
Organic chocolate by Michel Cluizel Organic produce specif ications do no include any quality requirement. Therefore, the first organic farmers tended to be content with the possibility to earn higher incomes thanks to organic farming, without paying attention to quality. As for supermarket groups, they sold these chocolates at a very low price, for f inancial reasons. The disappointment of consumers for the f irst organic chocolates on the market triggered a quick reaction of certifying agencies and farmers, who now provide excellent quality organic cocoas. Nowadays, many organic chocolates provide an aromatic range almost as wide as traditional chocolates, while protecting the environment. The only constraint of organic chocolate lies in its price, which is often
In order to meet the growing demand of customers and to provide quality products, Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL launched its very f irst organic dark chocolate (67 % cocoa) on September 1st, 2010. It is a ‘1er Cru de Plantation’ chocolate, named after the plantation in which its cocoa was grown: ‘Los Anconès’ in Santo Domingo. ‘1ers Crus de Plantation’ chocolates are made of cocoa beans from one single plantation, which creates exceptional taste quality chocolates. The ‘Los Anconès’ chocolate develops aromas of liquorice wood, followed by red berries and green olives. The organic chocolate bar has the same taste as the traditional ‘Los Anconès’ one, and offers an extra quality token to consumers.
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In terms of quality and respect for products, it now stands as one of the best chocolates in the world, since it is the only one to undertake so many commitments and to offer a perfect taste balance. As soon as it was launched, it was granted the prestigious Organic Food Award for 2010 best organic chocolate by Great Britain Soil Association. For now, it remains the only organic chocolate of the chocolaterie, and therefore accounts for a minimal share of production. However, it doubled the sales of ‘Los Anconès’ chocolate bars since it was launched. This organic chocolate is sold at the same price as the other ‘1ers Crus de Plantation’ chocolate bars (3.50 €) in order for customers to be willing to discover it without being impeded by its price. Organic chocolate is not just a craze, it is a fundamental trend. Organic farming answers a responsible approach and a commitment for quality. Nowadays, responsible consumers can find chocolates that are both organic and good ! * FAO : Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations
General Manager of Agence Bio
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Developing organic farming The French have a positive opinion of organic products. Almost 9 French persons out of 10 appreciate their naturalness and their contribution to environment protection.
What is the Agence Bio ?
It is a Public Interest Group that gathers Ministries of Agriculture and Food, Ecology and Sustainable Development as well as representatives of producers, processors and distributors. The Public Interest Group aims at contributing to the development of organic agriculture, especially by: • facilitating consultation between its members and emergence of synergies ; • creating the national watchdog for organic industries, from producers to consumers, and managing the notif ications of compulsory organic activity to each operator; • informing about the specif icities and benef its of this production and processing mode, and managing the AB logo in terms of communication ; • managing the fund created within the framework of the organic farming plan by 2012.
How is the organic industry progressing in France ?
EVENTS
The organic industry continues progressing. In two years, the number of organic farms has more than doubled, from 13 300 at the end of 2008 to 20 600 at the end of 2010. The number of collectors, processors and distributors progressed proportionately, exceeding 10 000 at the end of 2010, thus safeguarding and creating employment. The market is progressing. It doubled in four years, from 2005 to 2009, now amounting to three million euros. Distribution channels are diversif ied. In 2009, on average, 45 % of organic products were bought in supermarkets, 38 % were bought in specialized shops, 12 % directly from producers, 5 % from traditional craftsmanship retailers. Every circuit of the market is growing, with signif icant discrepancies among shops and among products
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How do the French generally feel about organic products ?
The French have a positive opinion of organic products. Almost 9 French persons out of 10 appreciate their naturalness and the fact that they contribute to environment protection, since they are grown without using any synthetic chemical. Over 4 French persons out of 10 bought at least one organic product once a month or more in 2010, 23 % bought one once a week or more, and 7 % every day. Consumers say they are interested in protecting their health, in the quality and taste of products, in protecting the environment, and in ethical reflections. Price is the major constraint for 35 % of the French who say they never use organic products, before the absence of habit. On the other hand, consumers of organic products tend to buy more of them every year.
What about the organic chocolate, specifically ?
The organic chocolate has a position that will develop with the providing of more offer and more information on countries of origin, as well as on producing communities. As things stand at present in France, sales tend to increase in organic specialized shops, with a range of products that is getting wider. Consumers of organic products also pay much attention to the fair nature of the field. Most organic chocolate is sold in the form of bars. The number of products made of organic chocolate keeps increasing growing but they still have a rather limited importance on the market. Consumers are responsive but still consider the quality-price ratio. Information provided about the specificities of the organic field plays a major role.
and exclusively made with Bourbon vanilla beans and cane sugar. In order to perfect its unique level of quality, the Cacaofévier (cocoa bean processor) launched in September 2010 its brand new Organic chocolate bar, made of 100 % organic farming raw materials. As soon as it was launched, the chocolate bar was granted a 2010 Organic Food Award, which rewards the best organic products. The “Fair Approach” award also rewards the direct and fair relationship that the Chocolaterie has had
with its f ive renowned planters since 1997, for the creation of its ‘1ers Crus de Plantation’. This specif ic approach enables the Chocolaterie to f ind the best cocoa grains in the world and to guarantee a reliable cocoa traceability. It creates a long-lasting partnership with the planter, based on collaboration, respect and trust, which guarantees that Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL’s products are unequalled quality chocolates.
Mr Chenesseau,
M. Gibert,
Shop manager in ANMARIS (France)
General Manager of company Cruzilles (France)
“Obtaining a certified organic label is not an end in itself, but can be the final result of many years of good agricultural practices !” Mr. Chenesseau created the company Anamaris in Olivet back in 2003, after spending twelve years working for Danone as a division head, and for Bledina as a sales supervisor. The core business of Anamaris is craftsmanship and delicatessen. A long-time passion for Mr. Chenesseau ! “For six years now, we have been selling chocolate, tea and coffee. Our idea is to initiate customers, adults and children alike, to the search for aromas in tea and cocoa, like one would do with wine”. The customers in Olivet appreciate it, whether they are seniors (approximately 50 % of the population), youngsters or large families… “Customers are very demanding in terms of product quality, service, guidance and availability. Their demands direct my choice of products. We have to show curiosity and open-mindedness towards new trends, such as organic products and fair trade”, says Mr. Chenesseau. “Customers need to trust our products and our know-how. We absolutely need to know where our products come from, how they were harvested, whether they are organic, faire-trade products…”
“Fair approach” award granted to Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL On the occasion of the 2010 Paris Chocolate Show, Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL was granted the “Fair Approach” award, an honor specially created for 16th edition of the show, on the theme of ethical, responsible chocolate. The Chocolaterie was therefore rewarded for its whole fair approach towards planters and for its constant quest for quality, in particular with its unique ‘Noble Ingredient’ quality commitment, which guarantees that chocolates are pure cocoa butter, flavoring-free, soy lecithin-free,
a few words from
interview
Mrs Elisabeth Mercier,
Carole Felix (first person on the right side) from Rizek Company in Santo Domingo, François Joneaux (second person from the right side), Corporate Customers manager
Our organic strategy “The demand for organic products is increasing but is not urgent. Our customers trust our selection. Organic products are unfortunately often used as a marketing tool, which can be harmful to products without a certif ied label but that have, however, been grown organically for many years. Our expertise makes a difference: we tell customers the reasons why we have certif ied products, conversion products and non-certified products that are nevertheless organic products. For instance, a tea plant that grows at an altitude of 3 000 meters does not have to fight any parasite: there is therefore no reason to use chemicals on it, and even though it does not bear a certified organic label, it is pesticide-free. We explain that our providers have been going to plantations for years in order to check crops and harvests, and all these elements define the quality and the image of a product. Obtaining a certified organic label is not an end in itself, but can be the final result of many years of good agricultural practices! Processes and results are more important to me than a simple logo”.
An explicative approach “Customers pay much attention to product contents: use of GMOs, soy lecithin, fat content, colorings… They are both suspicious and ready to trust expert shops, with employees who are able to tell them why a chocolate bar bears a label and why the very next one does not, even though it is from the same brand. Certif ication is also a sign of implication in terms of crop selections and pursuit of quality. For customers, a label is a token value”.
of Chocolaterie M.CLUIZEL are granted the "Fair Ap-
“The fact that Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel, a prime example in the industry of top-of-therange chocolate, is now making organic chocolates is a very good thing for the industry and for Cruzilles.” Cruzilles was created back in 1880. Founded in Clermont-Ferrand, it is the last heir of a long-time Auvergne tradition of fruit paste and candied fruit making. Roland Gibert took over the company in 2009, after a career in large-scale industry and at the head of several small and medium companies. “I was immediately won over by this industry made of know-how and passion for the high taste quality of processed fruit” says Mr. Gibert. Cruzilles focuses on a very exclusive niche and mainly sells products to pastry chefs, chocolate makers, confectioners, great figures of chocolate making such as MICHEL CLUIZEL and for exports, which amount to 15 % of its sales. “Along with the 80 persons who work with me, we try to satisfy and anticipate the needs of our customers by always offering innovative products that promote recipes from ancestral know-how”. New products are designed to adapt to each consumption moment. Cruz’Art pastes for instance are glazed, decorated fruit pastes, made for celebration times, which reintroduce traditional fruit pastes. Mini’Cruz pastes are suggested for coffee time. This strategy aims at developing the company at a reasonable pace in order to guarantee its durability, based on
proach" award, with Sylvie Douce and François Jeantet.
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the know-how of its employees, the quality of its products and its eff icient location.
Cruzilles, a pioneer in organic products Cruzilles has been making and selling organic products for over twenty years, mainly in the 2000 specialized shops in France, under the brand Père Louis. Thanks to its early positioning, it was able to benefit from the strong growth of the industry, over 10 % per year. Specialized shops offer guidance and trust to customers who look for natural products, with protected origins, with no conservation, coloring, taste or texture agents. “Our customers pay much attention to the information that appears on products. Cruzilles fruit pastes, fruit and candied citrus fruit peels are made of raw material from organic farming, following Ecocert certif ied processes. The fact that Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL, a prime example in the industry of top-of-the-range chocolate, is now making organic chocolates is a very good thing for the industry and for Cruzilles. We will take the opportunity to provide necessary raw materials, develop common products and share Cruzilles knowledge in this industry and expertise with Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL”.
Fair of Valenciennes As the official sponsor for Salon de Valenciennes, which took place from October 30th to November 1st, Michel Cluizel inaugurated the event and was named grand maître of the brotherhood of pastry chefs of Hainaut.
Didier Anies (MOF in Cooking/Catering), Philippe Parc (MOF Pastry/Chocolate/Ice cream).
Masterclass at Moscow Swissotel “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” award-winning Didier Anies and Philippe Parc brought their talents together in an amazing performance in Moscow, on December 6th 2010. They designed the menu of the famous Kai Lounge restaurant.
news update
significant events
Chocolaterie M. Cluizel in the media The Chocolaterie was pleased to welcome the production teams of France 2, France 3 and France Bleu Haute-Normandie (French national TV channels) who shot reports that were then broadcasted for Christmas. On the programme: mendiants, truffles, chocolate bonbons…
LaboratoRY Products
3 new bonbons
inspired in Marc Cluizel’s gourmet trips.
Paradoxe
Very soft caramel with fleur de sel, coated with milk chocolate.
New 2011 Spring-Summer catalogue
The staff of the Kremlin catering team at the Chocolaterie The Russian delegation: Jérôme Rigaud (Executive chef) and Mr. Korolev (Assistant director of the Kremlin catering department) visited Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel when they came back from Sirha fair.
(from right to left) Mr. Philippe Guilbert (President of the association), Mr. Fabien Thiémé (Mayor of Marly), Mr. Michel Cluizel, Mr. Laurent Degallaix (Deputy Mayor of Valenciennes).
on the theme of Locomotion
Chocolate night in Gardone Riviera (Italy) Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel and distributor Abramo Bruzzone took part in the fabulous adventure that gathered over 150 chefs, pastry makers and VIPs on August 27th, 2010.
Chocolate Fair of Paris From October 28th to November 1st, 2010, Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel presented its new products and got a great deal of positive references in the French press (Express, Styles, Figaroscope, Nouvel Observateur, France Soir…).
Japan Cake Show The essential Japanese Pastry/Chocolate making show that takes place every year was held in October. It was the first time Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel took part in it and it was a success.
(from left to right) HRH Princess Mary of Denmark, HRH Prince Joachim of Denmark, Marc Cluizel.
Chocolate Fair of Marseille From February 10th to 13th, 2011, Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel and its partner, confectioner Hubert, took part in the second edition of the show. The show, which lasted one day more than the previous edition, was visited by approximately 3000 persons.
Training Workshop From now on, all the professional training sessions given by Philippe Parc will be presented in dedicated Training Workshop catalogue.
Choco’croc in Strasbourg As an official partner of Strasbourg Choco’croc Fair, Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel was truly a hit on the show that took place on March 19th and 20th 2011, in Strasbourg.
Mille lieues
Dark rum milk ganache, coated with dark chocolate.
Mendiants Box
Ballotin of nine 1er Crus de Plantation chocolates
Party Pearls
For Christmas: a box of 24 delicious dark and milk chocolate Mendiants (240 g).
With the same color coded presentation as the ganache box (270 g), this ballotin is made of 9 amazing flavor Plantation ganaches (95 g).
Delicious nougatine shells filled with praliné, coated in milk chocolate (95 g).
A golden star by the Great Taste Award in England In 2010, an important award was granted to our Kettle roasted Almonds, for their unique taste. They are thoroughly roasted in caramelized sugar, in large red copper kettles, and then coated with dark chocolate from best cocoas, in a traditional way. The Great Taste Awards, which are organized by the British “Guild of Fine Food” association, are the equivalent of Oscars for the world food business.
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And for summer, Colorines
and their summery colors will amuse your taste buds. Apple, raspberry, orange, sea salt caramel, milk caramel small sugarcoated candy, coated in dark chocolate and a thin layer of colored chocolate.
Chef Rui Costa and Philippe Parc.
Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL will take part in the following fairs: • Chocolat Fair in Paris, from October 20th to 24th, 2011 • ISM Fair, Cologne (Germany) from January 29th to February 1st, 2012 • Europain Fair in Paris from March 3th to 7th, 2012 • FHA (Food & Hotel Asia) in Singapore from April 17th to 20th, 2012
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Pure hazelnuts praliné with lemons zest, coated with dark chocolate.
Michel Cluizel Collection
Training in Porto, Portugal From November 2nd to 4th, 2010, in partnership with its distributor 1000 Paladares, Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel organized a training session given by Philippe Parc with the help of Chef Rui Costa on the following themes: Christmas Yule Log, Small desserts and Chocolate Candy. A VIP dinner was given for a few Portuguese journalists on the following day.
Training sessions in French regions Philippe Parc gave training sessions dedicated to the making of Christmas cakes in Jouyen-Josas, St Chamond, Damville, Bruz et Besançon (France). He also gave seven training sessions on the theme of Easter chocolate moldings.
Zestine
High speed race throughout the new “Locomotion” kits that will make you travel on a quad bike, a flying saucer, a boat or a locomotive. Invitation to travel with the Bougeotte family (white chocolate decorated eggs), the new round-shaped façonnable coupelle, and the new Millefeuilles transfer sheet.
Michel Cluizel in a Spanish magazine Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel is in “Gourmet Magazine”, the online magazine of famous Spanish department store Corte Inglés.
SIRHA in Lyon From January 22nd to 26th, 2011, Chocolaterie Michel Cluizel presented its new collection of Spring-Summer Laboratory Products, on the theme of locomotion and was honored to have the visit of Royal Highnesses Prince Joachim and Princess Mary of Denmark.
Anonymous Products
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What kind of changes did Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL have to implement in order to launch its f irst organic chocolate ?
• Specif ic traceability system throughout the making process: traceability log sheet in green, scale sheet in green.
•O rigin and reception of raw materials: the raw materials used for the making of our chocolate bars are all from organic farming and all bear organic certif ication (cocoa beans, sugar, vanilla and cocoa butter). They are controlled upon reception.
• Hygiene precautions: each machine goes through a specific cleaning process before the organic process starts.
• Best practices of production: specif ic practices were implemented in order to guarantee the distinction between Organic and traditional chocolate bar processes.
•Q ualité France(authorized control body) audited the process and comes to make a control visit once a year.
• Delimitation of storage areas for Organic raw materials.
• Instructions, posters and policies were implemented.
• People in charge of Organic product making were informed about the different key items related to the manufacturing of organic products.
•P ackaging and shipping: products are packaged and sealed with appropriate labeling.
Legislation En coulisseS
• Use of specif ic equipment dedicated to Organic product making (color containers, buckets bearing Organic labels on, etc).
How do you know a product is organic ? Any organic product has to bear a specif ic labeling that includes a mandatory community logo (European Union), and specif ies raw material origins and certif ication body code. Another national logo can be optionally added, such as the French one that we use.
Logo guarantees that: • The product was processed in accordance with June 28th, 2007 council regulation No 834/2007 (EC) on organic product making and labeling. This regulation specif ies all the rules to be implemented in order to have the authorization to use these logos on the packaging of products.
• The company was officially declared as the manufacturer, processor or importer of organic products by its national Ministry of Agriculture. Moreover, the logo guarantees the following: • 100 % of the raw materials used to make this chocolate arise from organic farming. The product has to be made of a minimum of 95 % of ingredients from organic farming structures, implementing eco-friendly agronomic and farming practices that do not impact natural balances, environment and animal well-
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being. The 5 % of non organic ingredients are a tolerance level related to the low world production of some raw materials listed in the VIII annex list of regulation N°889/2008. Ingredients from organic farming have to be identif ied by an asterisk in the list of ingredients, and their production origin has to be specified (see Los Ancones chocolate bar). • The implementation of a specif ic manufacturing plan for the processing of organic products complying with the specif ications listed in N°834/2007 regulation, related to traceability, distinction of raw material storage areas… • Manufacturing processes
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controlled by a certif ication body authorized by French authorities, complying with criteria of independence, fairness, ability and efficiency.
Recipe (France)
The recipe sheet for Spring Vanuari, a dessert made of raspberry and 63 % Vanuari couverture chocolate, made by Philippe Parc*, is available from our distributors. * MOF (Pastry) and World Champion (Pastry, Chocolat, Ice cream)
Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL • Avenue de Conches • 27240 Damville • tél. +33 (0)2 32 35 60 00 • fax +33 (0)2 32 34 83 63 • www.cluizel.com • print run: 12 000 ex. (french + english) Director of Publication : Eric de Biase • Production : Linéa Pica 02 32 30 30 45 • Photos Credit: Chocolaterie MICHEL CLUIZEL • Non binding document • ISSN 1627-5071
process
A first organic chocolate