GUIA DE QUITO EN INGLÉS by Quito Turismo

Essential Guide to

WELCOME TO QUITO YOU ARE HERE THE BASICS OVERVIEW

8 10 12 16

A Port in the Mountains From Kitu to Ecuador The City Today Fruits of the Andes EAT LOCAL THE MARKET QUITO MAP

From Plaza to Plaza (Walk 1) From the Arch to Santo Domingo (Walk 2) From San Francisco to San Diego (Walk 3) From Basílica to San Agustín (Walk 4)

Mama Cuchara San Marcos San Blas / La Tola San Juan Chimbacalle

24 26 28 29 34 36

50 56 60

66 68 70 71 72 74

La Mariscal La Floresta Guápulo La Carolina ART & CULTURE SHOPPING OUTSKIRTS MAP

78 82 86 88 90 95 100

Cumbayá Valley The Pichincha Adventure Mitad del Mundo Ruta Escondida The Noroccidente BIRDWATCHING CONSERVATION FESTIVITIES

103

Antisana Quito’s shiest Volcano Papallacta to Amazonía Cotopaxi & South of Quito Otavalo & Imbabura DIRECTORY

120

104 106 108 110 112 114 116

121 122 123 125

Dr. Mauricio Rodas E. ALCALDE DE QUITO

Published by Quito Turismo Written and designed by: Ñan

Printed by: Ediecuatorial This guide may be reproduced citing the source. CONTACT: + (593 2) 299 3300 ext. 1018, 1050 comunicacion@quito-turismo.gob.ec

You are hereArt

Quito is unique Much of Quito’s uniqueness is the result of the great Andes Mountains: they are gloriously present in Quito, more so than in neighboring capitals, always showing their snowy peaks in the not-so-distant distance… Quito may also share an Inca heritage with Peru, but the Incas were only triumphant over a very fragmented native group of tribes 50 years before the arrival of the Spanish. The construct of the native population in Quito - and Ecuador, in general - is that much more layered and diverse.

CLAIM TO FAME A World Heritage Site South America´s richest concentration of colonial churches, plazas, museums and historic buildings made Quito the first city to be declared a UNESCO heritage site in 1978.

The Quito area was one of the last to be conquered by the Incas and the city, one of the earliest Spanish foundations in South America. Quito was also the first city in Latin America to claim independence from Spain (and one of the last to actually become independent!)

ALTITUDE 9000 At the heart of the Andes

LATITUDE 0 At the heart of the Planet

For a city located between the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn, its perfect temperate climate is hard to believe, and it is possible thanks to the elevation the city rises above sea level, in an agreeable “intermontane” valley amid towering volcanos.

The lack of seasons and the concepts of duality are certainly central to Quito’s ageless cultures, a realm located smack- in-themiddle of the planet, cut across by the imaginary equatorial line and its perfectly perpendicular relationship with the sun.

You are here

Quito Specialties Roses

Quito may be the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second rose producer, but no one beats the equatorial sun in terms of rose variety! Discover unparalleled color, radiance and aroma.

Chocolate

Recent discoveries have unearthed the oldest cacao remains in southern Ecuador, and Quito today is a rising world chocolate capital (of award-winning chocolate, by the way).

Diversity

Ecuador, and its capital Quito, breeds diversity in everything from fruits to culture, birds to orchids, and climates to heritage!

Highland Coffee

Praise has recently celebrated the superior quality and taste of coffee grown in the megadiverse soils of the Ecuadorian cloud forest.

In Quito, there are 12 hours of sunlight all year round!

The basics

Things you need to know

Like an onion

Layers, layers, layers! The weather in Quito is unpredictable. Quiteños actually say they experience all four seasons in a day, so a good tip is dressing in layers. Be ready to take your coat and sweater off and put them back on in a matter of hours. It can also rain unexpectedly, and then become sunny again… like magic!

GETTING AROUND Buses The Metrobus, the Ecovía and the Trolebus get you from north to south (and vice versa) down the city’s main axes. Private bus companies cover the gaps and connect the city diagonally. The green buses serve the valley area (Valle de los

Chillos, Cumbayá-Tumbaco). The ride is usually 25 cents (or 12 cents for children, elderly and students).

Upon entering the cab, demand your driver turn on the taximeter. The minimum fare is $1.50.

Taxis

Leaving Quito

Yellow cabs are always roaming the streets, but one can wait a while to actually get a vacant one, so call for a cab from the hotel lobby, or download apps like EasyTaxi, mi taxi JJ or Cabify on your smartphone to order a safe cab when on the street.

Interprovincial buses take you to any region in the country. They operate from terminales terrestres (central bus terminals). South-bound buses operate from the southern Quitumbe station, while north-bound buses operate from northern Carcelén.

The basics

WHAT TO TAKE ON YOUR OUTINGS Bring as little as possible but some things are necessary: sun block, a hat, good walking shoes, a camera (make sure you keep an eye on it at all times), insect repellant, an umbrella and always carry a sweater.

IF YOU BECOME ILL These are some private clinics you can visit in case of emergencies: Hospital Voz Andes, Hospital Metropolitano, Clínica Pichincha, Hospital de los Valles, Hospital Axxis. There are also public hospitals you can attend with little to no cost.

VACCINATIONS No vaccinations are required for Ecuador (your doctor may recommend some, including Hepatitis A & B or Tetanus). If you are travelling to the Amazon, a Yellow Fever vaccination is required. Keep in mind that these vaccinations have to be conducted a month prior to the visit in order for them to be effective.

enter Ecuador for most European countries, Canada and the U.S., but if you plan on staying longer than 90 days you will need a tourist visa (valid for six months).

CHANGE IS GOLD Change is hard to come by in Quito. It’s not easy to find those willing, or able, to break large bills. Carry small bills or coins (anything over $20 is considered large!).

STAYING SAFE Like in any other city, be cautious just in case. Keep your belongings with you at all times. When riding a bus or in crowded areas keep your bag in front of you. Do not leave your wallet or phone in your back pocket. Avoid walking in parks or the street by yourself at night.

BRUSH UP ON YOUR SPANISH

TO TIP OR NOT TO TIP

If you are in need of groceries, cheap clothing or toiletries you can head to big market chains like Supermaxi and Megamaxi. If you seek medicine, pills, or even a quick gift on your way to a birthday party look for a nearby Fybeca. The equivalent of a cheap convenience store like 7-Eleven is Oki Doki (not open 24-hours a day, though).

In most restaurants a 10% service fee is included in your bill. But you are always welcome to tip your waiter an extra amount. Taxis no.

CLOSER TO THE SUN Carry sun block with you! The sun in Quito is hard-hitting, especially between 10 AM and 2 PM. Apply sun screen every couple of hours (at least once a day!) and 30 minutes before you leave your hotel.

People aren’t comfortable in English in Quito, so it is helpful to jot down some basic Spanish words in case you need to ask someone a question.

WHERE TO GET WHAT YOU NEED

PASSPORTS & VISAS Passports must be valid for at least six months after your arrival. There is no visa required to

Hop on the Quito double decker tour bus through the city discovering the must-see sites along the way! For information on tickets and prices go to: www.quitotourbus.com

You are here

Word on the street

Apart from regular Spanish words you may need in order to communicate yourself with Quiteños, there are terms pertinent specifically to Quito that you may like to “brush up” on…

FOODSTUFF A la plancha – Grilled Achiote – A seemingly tasteless natural foodcoloring Quiteños (and Ecuadorians in general) love using in their food to give it color, and some believe, the unique Ecuadorian flavor as well. Ají – Hot pepper, the ingredient, as well as the spicy sauce one tops food with; find it invariably next to the salt and pepper in any local dive. Al ajillo – With a garlic based sauce. Al horno – Baked Apanado – Breaded Arroz con menestra – Rice and beans. Brosterizado – Rotisserie style (common for chicken or guinea pig!).

Comida Típica – Traditional Ecuadorian food. Choclo – Corn; the word is exclusive to Ecuador… Guineo – Banana; another regional word you don’t hear in other parts of Latin America. Hueca – A whole-in-the-wall dive with traditional Ecuadorian food. Picante – Spicy (note that caliente only pertains to heat). Pincho – Meat on a skewer. Also see pages 29-33 for local eats, traditional dish names, and more…

WHAT’S WITH THE DATES? Notice these street names christened after the important dates. 10 de agosto: Quito’s declaration of Independence (1809)

Quiteños love diminutives (and add -ito or -ita to anything), as in alitas (wings), lomito (tenderloin), papitas (fries), sopita (soup)…

24 de Mayo: Battle of Pichincha, when patriots drive the Spanish out of Quito (1822) 12 de Octubre: Columbus Day (1492) 6 de Diciembre: Quito’s Spanish foundation (1534) 9 de Octubre: Guayaquil’s declaration of Independence (1820) 18 de Septiembre: if you find out, let us know!

MOUNTAIN LINGO Batalla del Pichincha – The battle (on Mount Pichincha) that sealed independence from Spain on May 24, 1822. Chagra – A denizen of high-mountain habitats and páramo, the true Ecuadorian cowboy.

You are here

Guagua and Rucu Pichincha – Two of the colosal mountains that loom over the city… Guagua is an active volcano (it spewed thunderous ashes in 1999) and Rucu, a dormant volcano (ruco means old in Kichwa). El Coto – Short for Mount Cotopaxi Nevado – Snow-capped mountain Páramo – Poncho country! The highest transects of the Andes (comparable to polar steppes and tundra), located just below snowline, dominated by low vegetation, very cold weather and much wind. Soroche – The dizziness, headache, and low blood pressure one feels at high

altitudes due to lack of oxygen. One usually gets accustomed by day 2.

THE KICHWA LEGACY Kichwa is the new politically correct way of spelling Quechua, the language of the Incas, and Ecuador’s second official language. Widely spoken throughout the rural Andes, you will surely notice its influence in everything from town names and brand names to everyday talk… Achachai – what Quiteños say to express they’re cold Arrarrai – what Quiteños say to express something’s hot Atatai – what Quiteños say to express disgust Bamba - Valley Cancha – Playing field

WHO’S WHO Eloy Alfaro - The leader of Ecuador’s Liberal party in the late 1800s, a revolutionary thinker who became one of Ecuador´s most controversial presidents. Atahualpa - The Spaniards stepped right into a messy family feud when they reached Quito territory as Inca step-brothers (Atahualpa, from Quito, and Huáscar, from Cusco) fought for regional control of the empire. The Spaniards murdered Atahualpa because he apparently threw the Holy Bible on the floor, and thus ushered in the Conquista (Spanish Conquest). Sebastián de Benalcázar - The Spanish Conquistador who established the city in 1534 at the foot of Mount Pichincha. Charles-Marie de La Condamine - A French astronomer, adventurer and mathematician who leaded the first international scientific mission into Colonial Quito to measure the shape of the Earth.

Carpa – tent Chacra – farm Chaucha – odd job Chompa – jacket or coat Colcha – bedspread Cura – priest Inti – sun Minga – communal work Ñan – road Ñaño, ñaña – brother/sister Papa - potato Pachamama – Mother Earth Quinde – hummingbird Runa – human Sacha – forest Taita – father Yacta – homeland or “land of” as in Papallacta (land of potatoes) Yaku – water

Eugenio Espejo - One of Quito’s most exemplary minds. He spoke many languages, was a doctor, a philosopher, a creative writer and defended himself as his own lawyer, and many believe, was precursor to Latin American independence from Spain. Frederic Church - A NY Hudson School master who spent many years in Ecuador painting world-famous Andean landscapes. Alexander von Humboldt - A scientist, sometimes considered the first travel writer, who explored large areas of South America and stayed many years in Quito, where he developed the theory of altitudinal ranges. Manuela Sáenz - Simon Bolívar’s heroic significant other, a Quiteña who joined the Libertador to fight the wars of Spanish American Independence. Antonio José de Sucre - The Venezuelan marshall who liberated Quito from Spain atop Mount Pichincha. He married the Quito-born Marquise of Solanda.

Overview

To do and see Quito is a city for all tastes. A modern city, a new city, an old city, an ancient city, a niche amid the mountains full of layers and fragmented to its core. It schisms between deep-rooted traditions, wonderfully preserved Colonial monuments and a youthful, ecosensitive, new generation that graffitis its walls and feels unexpectedly cosmopolitan. Here’s a quick overview of experiences you may want to discover while in Quito.

THE MASTERPIECE La Compañía (p. 44) If you were in Quito for an hour and asked us what to see, there’s no doubt La Compañía would be number one on our list of suggestions.

CLOISTER LIFE Two cloisters offer showrooms and can be visited by the layman. The recluse nuns are 16

all about their cure-alls and concoctions (buy them at their respective turnstiles): Carmen Alto (García Moreno & Rocafuerte) – the museum is a must. At the turnstile: ask for a desamargado (the “de-bittered”), a unique candied lime! Santa Catalina (Guayaquil & Espejo) – As traditional as you can get. At the turnstile: speak your ills and the nuns serve the antidote.

SUNSET Itchimbía (p. 74) An Eiffel-designed glass building refracting the sky’s warm pinks and blues; a toy-like city to behold as the sun hides behind the mountains.

Overview

NEIGHBORHOOD WALKS

COLONIAL SPLENDOR The Cathedral (p. 41) The city’s Cathedral is one of the earliest religious temples in Quito, built only about 30 years after the Spanish founded the city.

La Floresta (p. 82) Eclectic, arty, up-andcoming enclave in modern Quito filled with street art, millennials on foot and places to grab a bite.

STARTING POINT Plaza Grande (p. 42) Everything converges here. Keep coming back and discover new things every time you come.

ART & CULTURE Guayasamín’s Capilla del Hombre (p. 92) AT ONE WITH NATURE Yanacocha (p. 111) - A mist-covered elfin forest - Prehistoric humansized leaves - Glistening hummingbirds, including the astounding Sword-billed… - An ancient irrigation system for the city - Spectacular location dominating Mt. Pichincha

Guápulo (p. 86) A steep cobbled incline that was once a quiet town in the outskirts, today a unique neighborhood with a beautiful domed church.

Ecuador’s XXth- century artist created this remarkable construction to house his work for posterity.

CHOCOLATE Buy chocolate, taste chocolate, make chocolate: Pacari (old town store: @ Guayaquil & Espejo) Chez Tiff (casa 989, La Ronda) Hoja Verde (Valladolid & Galavis); El Quinde Visitor Center (Plaza Grande).

La Ronda (p. 54) A restored Colonial barrio once a hub for literati and bohemians.

Overview

ANCIENT CULTURE Quito’s pre-Inca and Inca past is buried deep beneath its modern and Colonial layers, but you can still get a whiff of it at these magnificent sites: Rumipamba - An archaeological park situated over an ancient village. Rumicucho - Ruins of a pre-Inca fort La Florida - A pre-Hispanic burial site; don’t miss the poncho made out of shells. Tulipe - Stone-pools used by the ancients to observe the stars.

EAT LOCAL Pork scratchings and hominy at Motes de San Juan (p. 70) Pulled pork (pernil) sandwiches at Plaza Grande (p. 42) BBQ-tripe or the all-youcan-eat llapingachos and fried egg extravaganza at ºLa Vicentina Park (p. 82) Foodtruck inventiveness at La Platea (p. 82)

Casa del Alabado - Thousands of unique pre-Colombian pieces on display Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana - A necessary intro to Ecuadorian culture, with a large pre-Columbian art collection. Jacinto Jijón y Caamaño Museum - A well-appointed archaeological and ethnographic showroom in Quito’s Universidad Catolica. For addresses see listing at the end of this guide.

A mouthwatering ceviche at El Gato Portovejense (p. 78)

BRUNCH GETAWAY Café de la Vaca A country farm just off the main highway towards Mount Cotopaxi offers all-day breakfast and excellent local dishes, including locros, chugchucaras, empanadas & mote con chicharrón.

Overview

COLONIAL SPLENDOR

San Agustín

CLOSER TO THE SUN Pichincha and its Teleferiqo Cable-car-yourself over 12,000 feet to the top of a mountain that overlooks a city and a voluptuous chain of snow-capped mountains. (for other viewpoints, see p. 72)

UNDERSTANDING QUITO Museo de la Ciudad The permanent exhibit of this museum is perhaps the best place to get a quick grasp of what Quito is all about. (p. 50)

Santo Domingo Visit the always ravishing Our Lady of the Rosary’s red-and-gold chapel, within one of Quito’s central temples

RECREATION Your morning sweat CLAIM TO FAME Mitad del Mundo The parting of the hemispheres: stand north, stand south, or stand both north and south at the same time! (p. 106)

Ciclopaseo on Sundays: cross the city (30 km) from north to south on your bike. Chaquiñán: A beautiful country stroll along the old train tracks (grab your breakfast at Cumbayá square’s many options) A tennis match, jog or bike ride @ La Carolina Park

Capilla de los Milagros

Overview

MEET THE ARTISANS Quiteños are a smiley, fidgety bunch that love to use their hands… Stumble upon one of these local talents: Luis Banda (Sucre & Imbabura) – makes artisanal sugar-coated peanuts from his grandmother’s 100-year-old recipe.

HIDDEN TREASURE Mideros’ Arcangels Find these wonderful post-Colonial paintings by famed artist Victor Mideros at La Merced Church (p. 40).

ROMANCE The 2nd-floor balcony tables @ Heladería San Agustín (p. 61).

Humberto Silva (La Ronda) – The city’s tinsmith. Rosario Chiliguano (Arco de la Reina) – A friendly seamstress who prepares garb for wooden Virgins or “baby” Jesuses. Gerardo Zabala (La Ronda) – The local spinning top-maker (and more). Luis López (La Ronda) - A milliner who’s been making hats all his life.

Mojito and wine @ Café Mosaico (Itchimbia) Tea and hot chocolate (with cheese) @ Pim’s on El Panecillo or Itchimbía Hill. A walk down La Ronda. The orchid house at Jardín Botánico (La Carolina Park). The Romantic Getaways: Hacienda La Compañía, Cusin (p. 124); San Agustín de Callo (p. 122).

ART & CULTURE Contemporary Arts Center Quito’s “museum of modern art” set in the majestic facilities of the old Military Hospital (p. 70).

Overview

OUT ON THE TOWN

Theatre and Music:

ICON The Franciscan Complex An excellent Colonial art museum, a vision of Ecuadorian religious zeal, astounding architectural glory at one of Ecuador´s first churches (and one of Latin America’s largest)! (p. 46).

Strictly Salsa: Live Ecuadorian Music: Dinner & Jazz: Rock Cover Bands:

WITH THE KIDS

AT ONE WITH NATURE Laguna La Mica (p. 120) - Paramo wildlife - At the foot of spectacular snowcapped Mount Antisana - The beautiful lagoon and easy hikes to special viewpoints. - The chance to see Ecuador’s national bird, the Andean Condor. 21

In a few words

Quito, in a few words

QUITO: A PORT IN THE MOUNTAINS The mountain is the first feature the visitor notes upon arrival. Perhaps the last thing one remembers, too. It reminds us that the greatest monument of this monumental city is an act of nature, and that nature is its greatest asset.

The true keepers of Quito’s treasures have always been the Andes Mountains; and one mountain in particular, with all its bulk – a true fortress – has zealously guarded its ancient civilization, Colonial ‘kingdom’, and Republican capital since time immemorial...: the Great Pichincha. It’s the most obvious natural treasure of Quito’s geological conglomerate, the inescapable reference point that defines this most unique city in the world. The word ‘Pichincha’ actually refers to an entire family of volcanoes, a crown of giants gathered at the top of the world, forming a choir whose millennial silence of icy clouds and smoking earth gathers everything around it: starry nights, intense blue skies, misty mornings, the climate of social unrest that preceded the downfall of more than one symbol of power, the intensity with which life on earth is made sacred within churches and convents, in the streets, in processions. Not for nothing have Quiteños dedicated Virgins to the mountain: She who rests in La Merced Church is also known as Our Lady of Earthquakes and Eruptions, the only religious effigy made out of Pichincha’s Earth (or so,

some believe). A replica was placed into the steaming pit of Guagua Pichincha by fearless villagers, who entered the volcano’s mouth to appease its fury. Pichincha plunges its hands deep into the fertile valley of Quito, in the form of steep gullies that define the history, architecture, nature and beauty of this city. The water from the skies, funneled through these channels, feed the rivers Monjas, Machángara, Guayllabamba and San Pedro. In Prehistoric times, they helped form an enormous, life-bearing lake (the location of yesterday’s airport, today’s Bicentenario Park). The Andean communities and wildlife enjoyed the benefits that others found by the sea. However difficult it was to cling onto the vertical slopes, Pichincha was a most necessary reason-to-be for the existence of Quito. This city has always been a port amidst the mountains.

In a few words

FROM KITU TO ECUADOR

Poorly understood, pre-Columbian Quito (or Kitu, to differentiate it from the Spanish-founded city) was apparently not a great Inca dominion, but a strategic trading post. It is even believed that the frequency and violence of eruptions provoked an exodus from the area at some point in its prehistory. Prior to the arrival of the Incas, the ancient realm was equally ‘dominated’ by distinct groups, or chiefdoms, and acted as a commercial center for the entire region. The Incas then took control of the area for a brief 50-year period before the Spanish Conquistadors entered the stage, desperately searching gold. A feud between stepbrothers Atahualpa, in northern Kitu, and Huáscar, in southern Cusco, present-day Peru (sons to different mothers, but to the same Inca father Huayna Capac) made the Spanish Conquest a simpler ordeal than what it would have been, had the bulk of Inca power concentrated against the Europeans. The Incas had, in many ways, spread themselves thin.

1535 - 1767

1400 - 1535

An ancient mountain society that ruled its world through trade and barter has transformed into a growing cosmopolitan city that still offers, in its streets and idiosyncrasies, a glimpse into its layered legacy and fascinating past.

In the middle of this ”war of the worlds”, Conquistador Sebastián de Benalcázar arrived with 204 men at the foot of Mount Pichincha to settle the Spanish city of Quito in December, 1534, creating the classic Spanish urban ‘checkerboard’ upon a truly challenging geological puzzle full of perilous cliffs and ravines. Despite the steep Pichincha slope, however, a small plateau – where Atahualpa would have had his ‘palace’ – served as the Spaniards’ base from which to organize the city. They chose today’s Plaza Grande as their urban core. The Franciscans erected their religious complex San Francisco and Flemish Pedro Gosseal and Jodoco Ricke initiated hundreds of natives in the arts of Western thought, architecture, agriculture and craft (as well as beer-making): a vital contribution to the cultural heritage of the new city. The Western concept of the market interwove with pre-Columbian rural and commercial life, as the city developed in an organized manner thanks to the other religious orders that soon followed: Mercedarians, Dominicans, Augustinians and the Jesuits. The latter managed to exert strong economic and cultural influence on Quito’s society, to the point that the entire order became a threat to the Catholic Church throughout Latin America. The Jesuits were thus expelled and their departure from the colonies by decree of King Charles III of Spain forever altered Colonial life in the city.

FREEDOM: INDEPENDENCE HOTBED

The century of the Enlightenment arrived in Quito in the form of an outlandish (to its citizens) group of French scientists in 1736. It was the first time the Spanish Empire had authorized the entry of foreigners into its South American colonies. This “Geodesic Mission”, the world’s first international

scientific expedition led by French astronomers, geographers and mathematicians, including Voltaire’s close friend Charles-Marie de La Condamine, spent almost ten years roving the countryside with a caravan of scientific instruments in order to measure the arc of the meridian, hoping to settle an age-old intellectual argument about the true shape of the Earth. The expedition had its repercussions in Europe, influencing the creation of

Eugenio Espejo, one of Quito’s undeniable geniuses, proved a pivotal catalyst for the capital’s development of critical thought and the dissatisfaction with the Colonial order of things. Baron de Carondelet, a well-appreciated Spanish Governor, interceded in favor of elevating Quito to the higher rank of “Captaincy” (a project which fell through). Espejo’s self-imposed imprisonment, in protest of Spanish Law, and his subsequent death in 1795; the arrival of worldly intellectual wanderer Alexander von Humboldt in 1802; the Royal decree to reduce Quito’s territory that same year (favoring the Viceroyalty of Lima); and the death in 1807 of Carondelet, all encouraged Quito to imagine an autonomous government (1809). Inexperience caused the project to fail and those who conceived it were imprisoned, and, a year later, murdered in cold blood. With the key thinkers of Quito dead and under deeply oppressive Royalist control, Quito could only be ‘saved’ from the outside. The patriot troops fought for its freedom on May 24, 1822. Liberation figures, Sucre and Bolívar defended Quito at all costs (the city where both would fall in love), even after Independence from Spain, when Peru tried to snatch its southern territories. After the disintegration of Bolívar’s Gran Colombia, Quito, like Colombia and Venezuela, became its own political entity. At a meeting at Quito’s Central University, the Spanish

1830 - PRESENT

1735 - 1744

Andean enlightenment

1780 - 1830

In a few words

the metric system, as well as the discovery of rubber, anaesthesia and quinine, the definitive cure for malaria. Meanwhile, fashion gripped the Colonial outpost for all things French, forever changing the Quiteños’ perspective on the world.

“Audiencia” of Quito became the Republic of Ecuador, (thus appeasing the provincial cities in the region that favored a neutral name), the nascent state adopting the sobriquet La Condamine, the “geodesic”, had come up with to identify the region during his journey. MODERN TRANSFORMATION For nearly 200 years, Quito has reigned as the capital of the Republic. Although it remains, even today, half-lost amid the heights of the Andes, it was once as great as a country, and is today the cornestone that holds together an ever-diverse and fragmented world. Quito lives and breathes throughout its proud, traditional neighborhoods, a city that has maintained its heritage nearly intact, looking up to its protector mountain upon whose flanks freedom was won, endowing the city with its “Light of the Americas” accolade during the late Colonial period for having inspired independence for the entire continent. It has always demanded respect from the powersthat-be, successfully overthrowing corrupt Presidents in recent times. The essence of Quito lives on, as conquests, governments, ideologies and revolutions come and go.

In a few words

QUITO JUST GOT LONGER For a Latin American city, Quito seems old. For one thing, it harbors the best-preserved historic center in the Americas, a world heritage treasure that hasn’t succumbed to oblivion, like so many other places in the world. But Quito is also an amazingly new city, with an entire urban world that sprung up from out of nowhere in only a fistful of decades.

When the stone fort El Churo was erected at Alameda Park, about a hundred years ago, it made a fantastic vantage point. It offered a unique view, not only of the Historic Center, but of what lied behind the observer and spread north: where the city wanted to grow but had not yet dared to. In many important world cities, one is usually struck by how much they have changed over the centuries. But in Quito, we are quick to concentrate on its “historic” realm, a city that for almost four hundred years was reduced to 150-plus blocks. Still, we would have “missed the point” of the city if we were to ignore its recent history. It is fascinating to know just how much Quito has grown and transformed itself in such little time, leaving the past as is in its Colonial center. The development of Quito has been strikingly aggressive, and strikingly recent. In 1920, landowners in the agricultural areas north of the Colonial town were only beginning to sell their lots. Thirty years later, the people who ended up buying, and living, in these lots, did not yet consider that they lived in Quito. Later, this would 26

be Quito, almost more so than the actual old town… The pilgrim settlers of the north country didn’t necessarily want to change the world. But rather, the influx of outsiders caused mass migration in to the old city. The dominating class therefore figured it was best to move on, choosing what were at the time pastures and farmland. Two parallel worlds thus emerged. A Quito conquered by low-income, working class provincial immigrants who made the Colonial infrastructure a canvas for their uprooted lifestyles and street-side commerce... And the Quito that wished to reinvent itself. This moment in the city’s recent history is crucial to understanding Quito today. In 2016, more than ten times as many people live in the extended version of Quito than in the old days. The city has thus kept getting longer. And as some continue to seek out their own “Churo” vantage points to devise the way ahead, there’s still a city within its own boundaries that tries hard to cling to its identity.

THE GROWING SOUTH

If North Quito established itself quickly, the South has sprouted like soybean. If you know how soybean expands over any given terrain, you get the picture.

In real terms, it spread in a matter of twenty years. And no matter how many times a Quiteño sits on top of the Panecillo Hill looking out at the city below, he just can’t get over how much, and how fast, the South has taken over the view of the

ALT-Q: QUITO GETS ECO-SAVVY

For decades, honking horns advance to the rhythm of epileptic traffic lights. Walking from one place to another is a challenge in this ever elongated city that keeps getting longer, not to mention its obstacle-course sidewalks. Public transport tried, without much luck, to cater to the whims of amebic urban growth, but no masterplan could deal with the influx of one million inhabitants in only 15 years. Sure, Quito is shaped like “a sausage”, as Quiteños almost proudly define it, but if modernity turned it into that, post-modernity has deformed it into every imaginable shape, as the breeze blocks have Lego’d their inexorable way into every last gorge, slope and ravine.

aluminum Virgin (built only in 1975!) ‘who always looks straight ahead’ towards the central and northern reaches of the city, ignoring the urban wave coming up behind her. Lady Madonna, please turn around!

and more people are jumping onto the wagon of change, from feminists, LGBT groups, raw-foodists, vegans and on to gluten-free advocates. Activism to ban bullfighting in the 00s coalesced many disparate groups. And then you have non-directive education. And art cinema (and film schools). And with that, the so-called hipsters, and the music (and yoga) festivals and the designers, who design everything from clothing and accessories to coworking spaces. Quito is coming of age… it’s a great and fun time to be looking around at what the youths are coming up with to reinvent their city!

The bike has always been an alternative to car or foot, of course. But today, it’s more than just a means of mobility: it’s a flag of resistance. With it, of course, came eco-awareness; and fair trade. And sooner than you could say Save the Whales, activists were climbing trees and berating oil tankers. Its been a slow start, but more 27

In a few words

FRUITS OF THE ANDES For millennia, Equatorial Man has tamed the voluptuous body of the Andean giant. This extreme relief challenged his creativity, and he conceived such concepts as vertical agriculture and a cosmological worldview with which to create its calendars and organize society. In Quito, life always was (and will be) ruled by the land and the sun that shines over it.

Even today, indigenous communities demonstrate their celebration of our planet’s resources. Their spiritual beliefs conceive the land as only a “shell” under which an entire web of existence thrives. Inside and below lies the divine sustenance of our lives, which not only feeds us, but, through abundance and fertility, offers balance to our universe. This “miraculous” life-bearing land on which we live, complements the stars and sky like a natural opposing force. There is no universe without the fruits of the earth, and vice versa. But beyond being sacred, beyond producing an abstract sense of belonging and beyond being considered axis of native spirituality, in Ecuador, Mother Earth is also material. With the products She has offered since the dawn of existence, Ecuadorians – once Incas, and before that, Kitus, Karankis, Kayambis et. al. – have PLAYGROUND OF NATURE OBSERVATION AND ADVENTURE

Baron von Humboldt, one of history’s pioneering expedition scientists and explorers, who spent many years in Colonial South America, especially here, in the then “Province of Quito”, stood in awe at the sight of the Andean Cordillera. Through its unique biology, he conceived the Andes as a holder of all the world’s ecosystems as it possessed for 28

created a deep-rooted commercial world. The fruits of land have been, and in some ways, are still, Quito’s true currency. In exchange for crops, entire communities were not only fed, but achieved enviable balance in their diets, while trading commodities including clothes, building materials, even luxuries... “Offerings” of potatoes, hot peppers, corn, wood, coca leaves, salt, or cotton (etc.) defined relations between different human groups. Although the more equitable, ancient times fell under the power of Inca, Spanish, and then today’s republican system, as one tours the countryside, you still come across men and women who barter among extended family, who cherish their land in the spiritual sense, and who sustain, in many ways, the livelihood of the great (and ever-growing) metropolis.

him the snow of the Artics the tundra of páramo, the temperate climates of northern and southern hemispheres, and the hotand-humid tropics of the equator. The Metropolitan District of Quito, which is located in a very small transect of the cordillera, spans an altitudinal range of over 11500 ft., from 14000 fasl (atop Pichincha) to the foothill forests of Mashpi at almost 2000 ft., with the urban center located in the spring-like-climates of the

inter-Andean valley. As one moves up or down the Andean “ladder”, one finds different worlds, sometimes called “micro-habitats”, and with it astounding diversity (animals, plants, ecology, etc.). At the same time, the spectacular sculptural contours are a wonder for adventure sports, from highmountain-and-rock climbing to rafting and every kind of slope, landscape and environment to suit your biking and hiking whims.

Eat local

Lunch-time (or almuerzo) is sacred in a Quiteño’s home, and one dish is simply not enough. If you didn’t start with a good succulent soup and later follow it with a main course (preferably with rice or potatoes) it just isn’t lunch, and lunch is what, in Quito, gets you through the day. Whether you stop at an improvised stand, a humble dive, a restaurant or have an Ecuadorian homemade meal, the following traditional flavors are sure to pop up (and certainly leave you craving more).

LOCRO DE PAPA The classic locro de papa of the Ecuadorian Andes is a must in your culinary checklist. A thick and simple soup where the potato is its star ingredient is definitely a Quiteño and foreigner favorite. And the fresh

RECIPE Higos con queso Soak figs in water for a day and then cook them for 15 minutes until they are tender. Cook brown sugar in a bowl, it will become a syrup, and add figs until the syrup thickens. Serve the figs with slices of cheese or cottage cheese.

cheese and avocado slices that come with it only make the taste better (and the experience more unique)! Also find different types of locros: pork-grind, chard, fava beans and even cooked lamb’s blood.

Eat local

Fanesca One serving of this “soup” is enough to keep you full for the day! It is originally served on Good Friday, but Quiteños who can’t resist start eating it a month in advance. This is the ultimate soup, famous for the endless amount of ingredients it carries (beans, rice, corn, pumpkin, peas, fava beans, lupin beans, egg, cod…the list goes on!)

Tripa mishki The pungent and unmistakable aroma of the tripa mishki (sweet tripe) can literally stop Quiteño traffic. The dish – epic BBQ-tripe macerated in garlic, achiote, cumin, seasoned on-site on the street, and ready to eat after ten minutes over hot coals – gloriously sets the stage for Quito’s street fare. Where to eat it: Vicentina Park.

Cuy (guinea pig) A sacred creature to ancient inhabitants, the guinea pig not only goes

in the pot to celebrate special occasions, it is also used live in healing rituals. In homes, it is boiled in soups, but most non-local Ecuadorians today find it much less appetizing than the crispy roasted version.

MAIN COURSE Pork pleasures Anything that has to do with pork in Quito takes hours of preparation… Fritada: Pork morcels deep-fried in pork fat (known as mapahuira): a delectable dish.

RECIPE Cevichocho Blend peeled tomatoes with lemon juice, slide in chopped cilantro, cubed tomatoes, sliced onions, a spoonful of olive oil, a good measure of lupin (chocho) beans an voilà, le cevichocho est servis!

Eat local

YOU CAN’T MISS THIS!

Seafood Ceviche Hornado: An entire pork baked for 12 hours; the cooked pig is usually displayed with a hot pepper in its mouth, but despite the unpleasant vision, it’s a delicacy in these parts! Best place to try: Mercado Santa Clara; also Sangolquí, in the southern outskirts of Quito. Chicharrón: No matter the hour or the place you can’t say no to a good chicharrón or pork scratchings, and hominy (mote)! Try at: Motes de San Juan: the Serafina food truck at La Platea in La Floresta.

FOR STARTERS Choclo y habas con queso Corn and cheese, or fava beans (habas) and cheese are great appetizers before your entrée (be it hornado, fritada, or any other traditional dish).

Chulpi chocho

A delicious and healthy snack to boost your energy: lupin beans and roasted corn kernels (tostado).

A half moon shaped turnover common to most of Latin America but prepared differently in Quito; enjoy at the dinner table or a crowded stadium filled with passionate fútbol fans: De Viento (wind empanadas) - dough: flour and cheese. Filling: the wind De Morocho- dough: maize. Filling: meat, rice and green peas De Mejido- dough: flour. Filling: cheese, raisins, sugar. De Verde- dough: Mashed green plantain. Filling: cheese, shrimp or meat

Canelazo

Eat local

YOU CAN’T MISS THIS!

Helados de paila

NEW TRENDS Foodtrucks La Platea (a foodtruckpark, with options ranging from burgers, sandwiches and even sushi) in a fun, open-air environment and quirky ambience.

Nouveau-Andean Haute-cuisine in Quito has rediscovered the remarkable array of Ecuador’s

ingredients and culinary knowledge. Don’t miss these avant-guard and acclaimed restaurants: Theatrum @ Plaza del Teatro, Teatro Sucre Casa Gangotena @ Plaza San Francisco Urko (on Isabel La Católica, La Floresta Quitu (on Aldana & Castilla) off of Avda. América

Llapingachos (a grilled potato tortilla with cheese inside) Maduro frito (fried sweet plantain) Mote (hominy) Aguacate (avocado) Choclo frito (fried corn kernels)

Brewpubs & Craft beer Quiteños have embraced the microbrewery trend with enthusiasm (to call it a “boom” is a mild way to describe it), and it would seem there’s no turning back. Not only do we have dozens of new craft beer brands, but countless craft-beer pubs have multiplied, almost uncontrollably. Put your palatte to the test and discover a universe of foaming hoppy flavors and blends. - La Reserva - Los 3 Monjes - Bandido Brewing - Abysmo - Sinners - Páramo

Eat local

- Or head out towards Pomasqui and San Antonio to visit La Quiteña or Santana for craft beer in a rural setting.

TO DRINK Juice culture Ecuadorians were “juicing” way before the advent of the smoothie that went along with the world’s hype for health

food. With all the fruit options available in the country, it only makes sense that its juices be offered at the table along with every meal, in street shops, improvised stands and even in parks ready to refresh a jogger or biker’s thirst. We recommend: Jugos de la Sucre (Sucre and García Moreno)

YOU CAN’T MISS THIS!

All Quito dishes come with one (or several) sauce(s) to top them with. We advise you to add agrio (made with tomato, onion, orange juice, vinegar and brown sugar) to accompany your pork dishes, or the homemade ají (and the special tree-tomato-based or peanut-based variety) over everything else!

Humita Colaciones (White round sugar balls with a peanut inside) Caca de perro (Dog poo in English, a sweet snack made with roasted corn) Higos confitados (candied figs) Maní confitado (candied peanuts)

The market

Life at the marketplace Make sure to head out to Quito’s markets, where you’ll discover the city in its true element and delve deeper into daily life, learn more about the produce of the land, and try something new along the way.

Oh, the fruits! Fruits from two separate worlds: the tropics and the temperate Andes. Think pineapples, mangoes, passion fruit, bananas. Then think strawberries, apples, pears… It’s all here. Plus a local cornucopia to discover: naranjilla, the delectable chirimoya, tomate de árbol, granadilla, babaco, uvilla

(we don’t include translations, because there aren’t any). Crack them open on site for a fresh sample!

The Vegetable Section Find every variety of lettuce, tomato, squash, legume, pulse and grain. Over ten different types of tuber, including the deceptive melloco, which has

an altogether different texture and taste from the potato it resembles.

The Meats Due to Quito’s benign climate, meats don’t need refrigeration. Cow’s hooves catch the eye, waiting to be made into the locals’ favorite soup: caldo de pata. Buyer’s tip: Apparently the yellower the feet, the tastier the chicken!

The market

The limpiadora (essentially an herb healer) waits in her corner stall for her patients to arrive to perform her “limpia” spiritual cleansing process. With herbs and flowers (the list in Spanish has a resonance of its own: ruda, santa maría, marco, chilca, sauco, medio yuyo, tigresillo, congona) she cures everything from angst, nervous tension, ‘fright’, to insomnia and depression. Healer’s tip: Tuesdays and Fridays are the most propitious to banish the evil eye.

Casera: For the seller,

the ‘head of household’ who consistently buys at her stall (which is the seller towards whom the buyer has found the most affinity). Yapa: An extra one for the road… usually sellers will stick in a “yapa” (an extra fruit or vegetable) in your bag just because they like you.

LIST OF MARKETS

“Para que lleve”: “So you take it with you” (usually preceded by the last price a seller will drop to after haggling). Reinita: ‘My little queen’, the classic affectionate way seller’s call their customers. Dios le pague:

‘May God repay you for having spent money at my stall’ would be the ‘subjunctivized’ translation to this market way of saying ‘here’s your change’.

Market juices are only for acclimatized stomachs…

Walking the Old Town

Mount Pichincha

La Mariscal

Quito’s cable car climbs one kilometer to the heights of Mount Pichincha, one of the undeniable treasures of the city, which has defined its architecture, urban planning and stunning beauty.

The first modern neighborhood to develop from the Colonial center, today’s entertainment hub is good for shopping and a coffee by day and to grab beers, a bite, or hit the club by night…

Historic Center

One of the great reasons to visit Quito, a World Heritage Site that has preserved its history, architecture, art and traditions like no other city in South America. Discover a one-and-only treasure trove!

YAKU

SAN ROQUE

SAN juan

1 Bosque del Panecillo

centro Histórico

san marcos

Parque Interact del Museo ivo de Ci encias

loma grande

Parque La alameda

san blas la tola

Parque El Ejido

Parqu del arb e olito

a sen el que Par

Parque Itchimbía

Itchimbía

vicentina 6

Itchimbía

One of Quito’s most beloved parks, with cycling and hiking trails and a stunning viewpoint of the dome-studded Historic Center.

La Floresta

The creativity of younger generations has transforming this residential enclave into a place to stroll, with hip cafés, culture centers and places to hang out.

Walking the Old Town

e f e e s g

Iñaquito / La Carolina

Dominated by the multifaceted La Carolina Park, and a shopping mall hub, this growing financial district has also been taken over by pretty corner cafés, excellent bakeries, and good restaurants… and Quito’s largest movie house.

Parque Arqueológico Rumipamba

Cuenca

Parque la Carolina

iñaquito

el batan

la MARISCAL bellavista

ez ez suár gonzál la floresta

entina

pulo Guá

Parque Guápulo

parque Metropolitano Guangüiltagua

Guápulo

A town in the outskirts has turned into one of Quito’s most special neighborhoods, with a burgeoning nightlife and spectacular views, dominated by the gallant dome of Colonial church.

Parque Metropolitano “Quito’s lungs”, a large park that offers an array of recreational activities and astounding views over the Cumbayá valley.

Walk the Old Town

Walk 1: From Plaza to Plaza Although we truly believe there is no reason to rank the Quito walks suggested in this guide, this first route holds some of the crucial historic landmarks that defined the fledgling Spanish city founded almost 500 years ago at the foot of a volcano, in the then northern expanses of the great Inca Empire. STARTING POINT

It is perhaps the starting point of this walk where the city truly begins: at its “Big Square” or Plaza Grande. It is the meeting point of meeting points in Quito where everyone from Indians dressed in colorful native wear carrying trays of espumilla (a unique fruit meringue) to bankers, retirees, tourists, shoe-shiners and political activists with loudspeakers come together, under the intermittent shade of the square’s beautiful trees. Since 2009, you can actually visit the Presidential Palace (where much of Colonial governance 38

took place and where Bolívar convened with the country’s local heroes to create a new republic), or grab a hominy-and-rose-waterrefreshment (the unique rosero) at the historic Café Plaza Grande. Unwind at the tables under the Cathedral for a bite of a traditional pulled pork sandwich, or visit the magnanimous Cathedral itself. Check out Quito’s Tourism Bureau showroom at El Quinde, and grab some excellent chocolate to bring back to friends and family at Pacari (around the corner from the Cathedral, heading south on Vene-

Walk 1

zuela). Another tip is to grab some local fare at Hasta la Vuelta Señor in the Palacio Arzobispal on the northern edge of Plaza Grande. On the southwest corner stands the must-visit Centro Cultural Metropolitano. If you’re in town for several days, you will certainly be coming back here, and will be able to revisit the plaza’s many highlights. Behind the Cathedral, across the way from the Centro Cultural Metropolitano lies stunning

El Sagrario Church, with a masterpiece interior doorframe by Legarda, one of Colonial Quito’s most celebrated artisans (also notice the cringing lion doorknobs on the main doors!). At the end of the block, lies one of the world’s most important Jesuit creations and Quito’s most spectacular Colonial relic – La Compañía Church – which deserves all the attention to detail you can muster while inside (p. 44).

Walk 1

On the corner (Sucre and García Moreno), notice the charismatic façade (the one with the condors!) of the old Central Bank building, today a currency museum (Museo Numismático) where you’ll discover the now dollarized “sucre”. Detour south on García Moreno to Casa María Augusta Urrutía, a beautifully appointed receptacle of mainly early-XXthcentury antiques, owned by one of Quito’s prime patrons of the time. Head back up Sucre to San Francisco Plaza and Quito’s most imposing religious complex: San Francisco. Close to 30 friars live here; you may encounter them busying about at the must-visit Pedro Gocial Colonial Art Museum (p. 46- 49). Follow looping Calle Cuenca north, past a line of retail stores on either side of the street, to La

Merced what some call the “wedding cake” church (for its gaudy pink-and-white interior), honoring Our Lady of Mercy, patron saint of the Ecuadorian military and savior of the city from the menace of earthquakes and volcanoes. Back in 1544, She was successfully inserted into the Pichincha volcano’s crater, to calm a particularly angry eruption! (The miracle, of course, gave her unfaltering fame to this day). Also ask to see post-Colonial artist Mideros’ fabulous Arcangels at the Sacristy. You can walk down Chile back to Plaza Grande from here, or continue north to the Colonial Art Museum on Mejía housed in a pretty building with wooden verandas! (You can also grab a quick bite or coffee crossing the street at Bistro Carlota).

Some consider the overwhelming presence of suns in Quito’s churches and Baroque art a clear example of cultural syncretism of the Spanish American melting pot of Colonial times.

Walk 1

COLONIAL SPLENDOR

The Centro Cultural Metropolitano is located in what were historically Jesuit headquarters. The Jesuits were expelled from Spanish American territory in 1767 due to their overwhelming influence in the region and their departure turned the history of this building into a saga of dramatic proportions. A once religious enclave and operations center for Quito’s most productive haciendas turned into everything from a prison, a tobacco factory and a mint to a short-lived bar. Quito’s first pharmacy, library (at one time South America’s largest), and newspaper were inaugurated here. Visit the Mena Caamaño Wax Museum for some historical insight and don’t miss the temporary exhibits.

Don’t miss at the Cathedral 1. At the atrium, notice the stone spheres that decorate it, each one with its own design. 2. Visit the museum

for a look at archbishops’ garb, Colonial oil paintings (some of which are painted on alabaster!), and more.

3. Gothic-style mudejar (Moorish) architectural

CALLE DE LAS SIETE CRUCES

elements include pointed arcs and the fabulous interlaced woodwork on the ceiling…

4. Life-sized Baroque statuettes frame the

presbytery and an extraordinary canvas of Our Lady of the Assumption decorates the altar.

5. Ask if the Cathedral domes are open for visit, to catch a unique view of the Plaza Grande and Quito’s rooftops.

Walk 1

Plaza Grande It took over a hundred years for this lot of dust and dirt to become the most important piece in Quito’s urban chessboard, where the distribution (and confrontation) of power in Ecuador began brewing around what was once a small stone water fountain, today a proud monument to Independence, and Quito’s very own Statue of Liberty.

LADY LIBERTY The centerpiece of Quito’s Plaza Grande – Libertas – a stoic Lady Liberty and her torch represent the symbolic ‘light’ that freed Quito from its dark Colonial past (and a nod to the proud women of Quito, instrumental in gaining independence for the city).

FOUR POWERS The power of government (the Presidential Palace), the power of the clergy (the Archbishop’s Palace), the power of the people (the Municipality) and the power of God (the Cathedral) all flank Quito’s main square.

Walk 1

LIFE IN THE OLD TOWN

THE PALACE / STONE FRONT

PARISIAN PRIDE

The Cathedral’s rooster You may notice a rooster atop Quito’s Cathedral… it has a legend: it stepped down from the dome it adorns to confront one conceited, drunken Don Ramón Ayalá to change his ways forever.

Power to the people People unite to protest against the government at Plaza Grande, and have, repeatedly, overthrown the powers that be: presidents Bucaram (1997), Mahuad (2000) and Gutiérrez (2006).

Change of Guard Every Monday morning at 11 AM, a change of guard takes place in front of the Presidential palace.The new guards spend a week standing patiently (and getting photographed) as they zealously protect the executive (an Ecuadorian institution since the 1940s). 43

Walk 1

La Compañía La Compañía is a knockout on every level, an architectural gem excessively smothered in gold-leaf with glorious shafts of light penetrating the interior from divinely-measured skylights (God’s face is illuminated by the sun during the equinox!). Its beauty at first sight is enough to marvel anyone, but, like all things Baroque, greatness lies in the details.

Fine Moorish embellishments, gripping iconography, symbolism at every level in portraits, wood carvings and its almost didactic Baroque sense of symmetry (most eloquently evidenced by the fake staircase mirroring its real counterpart, as seen from the altar looking back to the entrance) come together for this one-and-only Colonial art-and-décor 44

tour de force. It’s wise to sit on one of the benches and let it all settle. Here are just a few things to look out for:

The church’s façade is actually a spectacular altarpiece where many Biblical stories are told by the figures that adorn it; symbolism pervades even the side walls along the entrance.

At the foot of the altar, in a casket, lie the holy remains of Quito’s first Saint, Marianita de Jesús. Allegedly represent the children murdered by Herod’s decree. Goríbar’s column paintings are a wonder to behold, and include a true one-off: a whale-dog!

Walk 1

Hernando de la Cruz’s blood red canvas to your right is a wonderful Bosch-esque vision of the underworld (and its capital sins) created to bring fear to the faithful. Across the way, shock value persists in the Final Judgment.

Baroque checklist Horror vacui –

the obsession of filling every last nook and cranny with decoration

Excess symbolism –

DNA-like connections with the celestial world Symmetry – Everything seems cut in half like a mirror

Chiaroscuro –

grapes, vines, pomegranates, sheep, wolves, pigeons… they mean more than what they are.

Architectural play with natural light to create shadows and highlights throughout the church

Spiral columns and staircases – symbolize

Mirrored objects are either

Trompe l’oeil –

Look up at the dome to the two absolutely stunning rings of religious figures that whirl amid spirals of cherubs and a brilliant sun at the heart (the charred face of one cherub was left ‘un-restored’ after the church’s fire).

painted or real woodcarvings (there are actually no mirrors).

Memento mori –

Representation of the ephemeral of our world in canvases of the Final Judgement and the Inferno.

Seraphs and Cherubs –

They’re everywhere, this is heaven re-enacted.

Walk 1

San Francisco Over 8 acres (40,000 square meters) of temples (one main church and two smaller churches), cloisters, courtyards, chapels, chambers; excluding gardens, its ossuary, and secret catacombs, the San Francisco religious labyrinth joins the city’s past to the life and soul of those who know, pray, and cherish it every day.

The Franciscan Square has no benches; no flowers, nor sculptures, adorn it. It has been covered in its now emblematic cobblestones since 1940. For the four centuries before the stones were placed, it was essentially a barren pitch ideal for activities that brought in the crowds: plays, markets, bullfights, processions, the mass catechism of the natives and farming

workshops to incorporate European crops like wheat into the agricultural framework of society… Its extension was thus intended to be large. Colonial paintings also depict its original large stone fountain, from where native ‘carriers’ would collect water in huge ceramic pondos to distribute across the neighborhoods. Today, the fountain is smaller, and the sloping expanse seems eerily featureless as one walks up to the monumental atrium.

Walk 1

To avoid who-knows-what Medieval chastisements that awaited him, humble stonemason Francisco de Cantuña offered his soul to the Devil. He called upon Lucifer to fulfill the most important assignment of his life: placing the stones of the church’s atrium. When people tell this legend, sometimes they highlight Cantuña’s wit, while others simply minimize it as sheer luck.

Cantuña saves himself from the tortures of Hell (and the authorities), when the Devil finishes the work for him without realizing that a single stone was not placed, which invalidates the pact and sets him free. Legends aside, San Francisco’s atrium is one of the most fascinating places to stand in Quito, with its fantastic double half-moon circular staircase (a Bernini design that was actually not included in the Vatican).

The Church of San Francisco is in fact dedicated to San Andrés, and not Saint Francis, (but tell that to the Quiteños who worship here…). Perfectly eclectic, it manages to encompass Renaissance-imbued altarpieces, Romanesque-style stone columns, a Mudejar, or Moorish-influenced ceiling, and Baroque designs covered in gold-leaf, not to mention a series of side chapels, some enigmatic and sober, others blindingly gaudy (notice the pulpit with Catholicism’s three enemies –Luther, Calvin and Arius – eternally carrying the weight of the Church on their shoulders!). It isn’t only the height of the columns, or the striking images (all admirable, no doubt). It is the masses that, to this very day, glorify this church: families praying viscerally, the faithful kneeling before the miraculous image of the Winged Virgin, centerpiece of the main altar – and one of the few sculptures signed by the talented Bernardo de Legarda – the image chosen to honor the city as its geographical cherry on the Quito cake: Panecillo Hill. Don’t miss the Pedro Gocial Museum.

During Holy Week in March/April, you can’t leave Quito without witnessing the Good Friday Jesus del Gran Poder procession that takes over the city. A human sea of men dressed in purple gowns walk the Old Town streets beside bare-chested penitents who carry gigantic wooden crosses, on a day that almost always is struck by rain. 47

Colonial splendor Art

The masters Manuel “Chili” Caspicara (ca.1720-1796) Although not much is known of Caspicara’s life - perhaps because of his native heritage, he was underestimated by his contemporaries – the moving work he left with us represents the apogee of Baroque sculpture in the Americas. The pieces attributed to Caspicara, at a time of dire economic struggle in Quito during the city’s late Colonial period, were the “only thing that sold in Quito” (as stated by visionary Eugenio Espejo).

Some works to behold, apart from those attributed to Caspicara at the Pedro Gocial Museum: The Virtues @ the Cathedral’s Choir The Holy Robe @ the Cathedral Saint Francis’s Wounds @ Cantuña Chapel The 12 Apostols @ San Francisco Church Dead Christ @ El Belén Christ @ San Diego Church

BERNARDO DE LEGARDA

(ca.1700-1733) Arguably Quito’s most prestigious sculptor, Legarda and his apprentices were commissioned to produce dozens of altarpieces, gold-leaf finishing, woodwork and decoration in most churches. Among his most famous pieces are the so-called “Winged Virgins”, or Virgins of the Apocalypse, (including the most important, which he signed, and was placed in San Francisco Church’s main altar), whose pearly faces have become Quito’s most beloved icons.

Colonial Splendor

OTHER QUITO MASTERS

Some works to behold, apart from those attributed to Legarda at the Pedro Gocial Museum: La Merced’s main altarpiece. The screen, interior dome and wooden window frames of El Sagrario. La Compañía’s gold-leaf tabernacle. Much of the interior, including the altarpiece, of Cantuña Chapel @ San Francisco. The altarpiece of Carmen Bajo Monastery

MIGUEL DE SANTIAGO

(ca.1630-1706) One of the early artisans to

take his talents to the heights of artistic prowess, a master of depth and color known for the subtlety in landscape and finesse of his stroke, Miguel de Santiago is one of Ecuador’s most important artistic figures. Highlighted by Spanish visitors to the Americas such as Antonio de Ulloa, who urged his work be shown in Europe, Santiago defied racial conceptions of his time due to his mixed heritage. Santiago spent long retreats at San Augustín Church and Monastery, where today many of his works have been restored and can be admired at the fascinating Miguel de Santiago Museum, located within the Augustinian complex. 49

Walking the Old Town

Walk 2: From the Arch to Santo Domingo From La Compañía Church you can already catch a glimpse of the remarkable starting point of this second old-town route: the Queen’s Arch, or Arco de la Reina. Walk straight to it (if you haven’t already visited María Augusta Urritia’s house-museum, this is a good time to do so!). STARTING POINT

The arch was built simply to protect people from the rain and scorching sun (two Quito staples) that hounded those who publicly worshipped the Virgin you’ll find on the arch’s left-hand wall. After tasting some Quito sweets across the way, or visiting Rosa Chiliguano’s Manto Sagrado for a taste of Quito’s zealous passion for religious icons, visit the museum at Carmen Alto Monastery, dedicated to the cloister and the nuns who keep it alive. 50

As you continue south past the arch, you will find, to your left, the entrance to the essential Museo de la Ciudad. This is your “Quito for Dummies” initiation, an excellent, didactic permanent exhibit on the city and its history (with your odd temporary modern art exhibits and a wonderfully quaint chapel) housed in what was once Quito’s central hospital: San Juan de Dios. Complete with ghost legends and informative displays, including an eye-catching diorama depicting

Walk 2

the Spanish expedition to discover the River Amazon, if there is anything you should not miss from this old-town trail, it’s this visit. Our next stop begins at the end of the block, what was once Quito’s most southern point, the narrow gully-side La Ronda.

LIVING BAROQUE El Manto Sagrado Notice the beautiful garments that dress the Virgin at this corner store on Rocafuerte. And then notice the unfathomable costumes that fashion the Jesus Child: (from policeman to cowboy to the Pope). It is the Quiteños’ fascination for dressing the Madonna and Child that keeps this store alive and well.

Walk 2

EAT LOCAL Sweets Corner

THE GENIUS Eugenio Espejo

On the northwestern corner of Rocafuerte and García Moreno, you’ll find many of Quito’s classic trail-mix sweets, including the “caca de perro” (dog poo), made from roasted corn, and an assortment of caramelized peanut and peanut-based nibblers.

Eugenio Espejo was a doctor who spent a large part of his career working at the San Juan de Dios Hospital. He is considered one of Quito’s most important thinkers, a veritable Renaissance Man, remembered not only for his literary talents,

Once you’ve given La Ronda a good look around you can take Calle Pedro Vicente Maldonado back up to Santo Domingo Church, another essential Old Town Quito temple. Dominated by high-coffered ceilings with Quito-sky-blue frescoes and screaming pink and gold Moorish-influenced woodwork overlooking the pews below, Santo Domingo offers among the most colorful church interiors. An 52

but for his scientific and political mind. Some call him Quito’s first journalist, sociologist, social reformer, microbiologist, novelist, feminist, communist, graffiti artist, Independence activist, but none of the sobriquets are accurate – they couldn’t be – since none existed when he was alive.

anomaly in most of the major Quito churches, much of the iconic Colonial artwork was replaced for newer pieces in the XIX-century, as Italian Dominican priests decided to favor neo-Classical elements. To the right of the main hall you will find the church’s pièce de resistance: the Rococo-style Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary. Set with-

Walk 2

COLONIAL SPLENDOR

in a dramatic scarlet and goldleaf niche, this short-of gaudy altarpiece and surrounding carvings make the entire inset a feast for the eyes. As you walk north on Flores, you find a string of yarn stores where those in the know receive cheap one-hour classes (you’ll see the pros knitting away), as well as candle stores, “Luz de América” being the oldest (over a century old, at Pereira). Combine this walk with Mama Cuchara (p. 65), San Marcos (p. 66), or walk our Quito Walk 4 (p. 60) backwards…

The Virgin’s Wardrobe She was a gift from none other than Charles V of Spain to the church of Santo Domingo. The Virgin today boasts one of the most beautiful chapels in the city, and she is certainly the most beautifully dressed. The chapel itself is the epitome of Quito Baroque, with dashing gold and red décor. Elaborate carving in cedar and alder covered in gold-leaf and enamel, and

two doors that open up “the Virgin’s wardrobe”, a room full of flowers, ornaments and clothing offered to her by passionate devotees. These gifts reveal not only the love for the Virgin, but the passionate obsession to dress an icon of devotion (and to dress Her well). The place is overflowing with clothes that the Virgin could not possibly ever wear. Only the temple’s Sacristan is allowed in to this boudoir sanctuary.

THE MUSEUM

Fray Pedro Bedón

Walk 2

La Ronda Bohemia between a bridge and a tunnel Between Puente de los Gallinazos (Vulture Bridge) and Túnel de la Paz (Peace Tunnel), hidden below Calles Guayaquil and Venezuela, lies one of Quito’s oldest streets, the street that marked the end of the city in Colonial times. Here, Bohemian lifestyles lurked, poets were inspired, musicians found their muse. Some of Quito’s most beloved songwriters serenaded its balconies, and some of the city’s most heated intellectual arguments took place at its taverns.

For years, the street had been left forgotten, yet today, an ambitious restoration project has turned it into a place to shop, walk, meet local artisans and have a drink.

A project created to make this narrow street known for its nightlife more dynamic during the day, revamping a series of old houses and bringing together some of Quito’s most talented and inventive alternative ventures in one place. Visit the different “casas” and discover an interesting mix of artisanal products.

Find a variety of objects made out of tin at Humberto Silva’s shop. He is one of the few “tin-tinkers” left in Quito. Staple items: toy kitchenettes and ovens and gardening equipment. (Casa 762) Zabalartes - Gerardo Zabala can make a wooden toy in front of your eyes in just minutes. His favorite: the spinning top (including state-of-the-art designs you’ll want to take back with you). (Casa 925)

Walk 2

Humacatama - If you’re looking for classy headwear, this is the spot, a traditional hat shop that has been around since 1920! (Casa 762) Artesanía Urbana Urban designs, inventive toys, clever items, stationery materials, clothes and funky aesthetics fill this shop. (Casa 707)

Maya - A colorful and quaint shop for decorative knitted designs and jewelry (Casa 989). Api Real – A honey -themed shop with a holistic approach that offers products made out of premium honey, including creams, shampoos, soaps and cosmetics. (Casa 925).

There are four iconic artthemed stores to chose from in La Ronda:

Escuela Quiteña - A place that highlights and celebrates the tradition and heritage of the Quito Colonial Baroque Art School, a legacy that includes welding, inlaying, woodcarving and metalwork. (Casa 989) Guayasamín Foundation - An art & design space inspired by the late Ecuadorian artist Oswaldo Guayasamín. (Casa 707)

Not your typical icecream parlor: Dulce Placer specializes in transforming typical Ecuadorian dishes such as the fanesca soup into a cone! Dulce Placer certainly has the wildest flavors in Quito. (Casa 925) A place full of traditional Quiteño cuisine artifacts! (Casa 989).

A historic 18th-century residence restored and transformed into a fine boutique hotel.

Check the agenda of the small outdoor theater located behind Casa 707.

The site where Quito’s first tavern once stood is today a crafts-and-souvenirs shop.

An important part of the project Manos en La Ronda is its street exhibit of “traditional games” in Quito, something to discover with kids...

Walking the Old Town

Walk 3: From San Francisco to San Diego Our third route is yet another extension of the first. The detour here begins at San Francisco Church itself, heading southwest. You’ve already hung around the square. You may have tasted some of that comida típica at Tianguez, the obvious picturesque café located right under the church, and looked around at STARTING POINT

their nice crafts and souvenirs arrangement inside. You can also grab a more sophisticated bite at sumptuous Casa Gangotena, a first rate boutique hotel with an excellent restaurant (check out the “cafecito quiteño” high-afternoon Ecuadorian-style tea at the main lobby). So turn left onto colorful Calle Cuenca — fortunately still cobbled— you’ll discover the regional ishpingo flour at spice-selling stores, 56

as well as other popular ingredients including flaxseed (linaza), or a vegetable food-coloring called achiote... Among these stores you may want to take some Ecuadorian Oldies records back with you at Garcia y Hnos., and in the middle of the block, find Casa Museo El Alabado, one of Ecuador’s most precious museums, which will take a good hour to visit well.

Walk 3

The block ends at the Santa Clara cloister. One normally only gets to appreciate the monument’s massive white walls and elaborate stonework, since it has only been opened to the public a handful of times throughout its history. Left on Rocafuerte you may notice the stores selling every costume and piñata a toddler would wish for. Right on Calle Benalcázar, stop at Sombrerería Benalcázar for traditional hats and masks (bought

and used by Quiteños to liven up a number of secular and non-secular festivities). At the end of this shaded street, you reach an open expanse known as 24 de Mayo. It used to be a gully that marked Quito’s southern limits, upon which a wide street was laid. Walking towards the mountain, on the right, appears the iconic Capilla del Robo (The Chapel of the Robbery), built at the site —at the time a forested cliff —where the stolen tabernacle of Santa Clara Church was miraculously found.

DO AS THE QUITEÑOS DO…

Walk 3

Next to (and tucked in a not-so-obvious corner), find Estampería Quiteña, a pretty remodeled Colonial construction that serves as an arts center dedicated to printmaking. The pedestrian sector of 24 de Mayo ends on Imbabura. Turn left when you reach the condor monument here and walk up to Victoria Square, where Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre baptized his feat of freeing Quito from Spain during the Battle of Mount Pichincha by purportedly bathing in that small stone fountain! It is also said that the pretty mint green house on the corner, Casa Victoria, was the place where the victory party was held.

COLONIAL SPLENDOR San Diego Convent You can visit the museum and convent of this Franciscan retreat, full of art and history (don’t miss the colorful mural in honor of the Chinquinquirá Virgin) with its special coffered ceilings, pulpit and the fabulous

For Inca historians, on the other hand, this is where Inca king Atahualpa’s dominions stood. The city’s cemetery lies five blocks further up on Calle Imbabura past the stairs that mark the end of the street, to the left. To the right, we find the dramatic entrance to San Diego Convent, with its large stone cross standing alone in the middle of an imposing walled square. On the way back, you can take picturesque Calle Barahona.

legend of Father Almeida the guide’s will happily inform you about (as well as the alleged Bosch original housed at the gallery).

STOP AND LOOK The tombstone stores A line of “marble tombstone stores” (marmolerías) announce the climb to the cemetery,

Jesús del Gran Poder being perhaps the most unusual, since it holds a carved memorial of a living man: one of the country’s most controversial ex-presidents, Abdalá Bucaram. The owner chiseled it himself and displayed it at the Presidential Palace when Bucaram was overthrown (newspaper clippings are on the wall).

Walk 3

ANCIENT CULTURE

Set in an almost mythical residence, in front of which neighbors cross themselves when walking by the inscription on its lintel – it reads “Praise the Lord” or Alabado sea el Santísimo Santo – Museo Casa del Alabado is in fact brimming with pre-Columbian genius. Over five thousand pieces that span an enormous 5,000and-some-year legacy predating Colonial rule, are displayed in a most elegant, beautifully lit, and comprehensive permanent exhibit.

RUMOR HAS IT Mischievous Father Almeida Almeida’s legend features two main characters. Padre Almeida, the religious man who flees from the confines of the San Diego Monastery into the Quito night, in search of forbidden pleasures; and the sculpture of Christ on the cross, which the Father irreverently uses as a ladder to escape from his reclusion, with whom he exchanges words with before leaving every evening. Padre Almeida

forces the image to come to life and object, “’Til when, Father Almeida?” (Hasta cuando, Padre Almeida). Famously, the Father replies: “’Til my return, my Lord” (Hasta la vuelta, Señor). The Father existed in real life, but the free spirit he’s credited for is unlikely. The Christ, on the other hand, is attributed to the great Manuel “Caspicara” Chili, and can be visited at the complex. Its chiseled face is also said to change its expression depending on the angle from which you look at it.

HIDDEN TREASURE

The San Diego Cemetery It is a great, underrated and “unofficial” visiting site, (the guards are not expecting tourists). Don’t show your camera if you decide to walk inside. Notice the architectural flare of tombs and the Arabesque church. Views of the city, looking back at the entrance from certain parts of the cemetery, also reward the curious.

Walking the Old Town

Walk 4: From the Basílica to San Agustín For our fourth walk we head straight to the largest construction in Quito. You see it from many angles of the city, a glorious neo-Gothic structure that has taken over a century to complete, and is still awaiting finishing touches: the Basílica del Voto Nacional. STARTING POINT

Commissioned to reclaim religious zeal at the tumultuous end of the XIXth century – and officially marking Quito’s “consecration” to the Sacred Heart of Jesus – the Basílica is also arguably the best place to catch a panoramic view of the city from the monument’s rooftop. Among its charms, including the stain-glass windows, notice the gargoyles that emulate some of Ecuador’s most emblematic faunal specimens: the iguana, the caiman, the Galapagos tortoise, even the Blue-footed Booby, are represented. As you leave the Basílica you can walk down the hill right onto 60

Vargas (you’ll know you´re there as tile-retail stores are everywhere you look), passing by Plaza Arenas (a bizarre open market). You will pass the arch of La Guaragua and its pretty steps (located on the left hand side), once considered the quaintest part of town, from where you can descend to Calle Guayaquil. You can walk down the stairs and turn left towards the Plaza de Teatro or head to the Camilo Egas Museum (two blocks up Esmeraldas and then 2 blocks over on Venezuela, the museum will appear on the right-hand corner).

Walk 4

Heading back downhill on Esmeraldas (2 blocks down and then right onto Guayaquil), you reach one of Quito’s cultural emblems, Teatro Sucre, which is, in essence, Quito’s opera house… It is situated on an open square (Plaza del Teatro) with cafés and a second theatre for smaller-scale shows, Teatro Variedades. At this square, street artist acts take place and your odd street concert, as well. Continuing straight on Calle Guayaquil, you

should make a stop at Heladería San Agustín (just up from Mejía, on the right hand side), a great place to sample classic Quito sweets (try the quesadilla, the suspiro, the empanada de viento or the fruit smoothie known as the salpicón) in this Colonial-art-themed café (we suggest you find a romantic corner for tea at the balconies upstairs). Just up from Heladería San Agustín, take the next left onto calle Chile.

Walk 4

To your left you’ll find the main doors of Iglesia San Agustín. Pastel greens, pinks and blues frame the stunning saint-studded motifs of the church’s walls and arches, and the unique choir, in shining goldleaf, is further glorified by the life-size angels that support it. One block behind, (north) on Flores, visit the new square that replaced a crumbling building and offers the narrow streets of the old town some newfound air. One block up from San Agustín, left on Calle Espejo, we find another recently restored Quito landmark: Teatro Bolívar, on your right. A devastating fire levelled this varieties theatre in 1999. The Hoffman & Henon masterpiece underwent a painstaking restoration process, receiving grants from the United States and Germany, which eventually restored the theatre to some of its former glory, although 1,000 seats shy. You can see what’s on show or try out the restaurant, La Purísima. Straight ahead, on Flores and Espejo, stands the orange-and-

white Santa Catalina de Siena Monastery. Another important victim of earthquakes, the cloister features a small museum with religious memorabilia and over 100 canvases of Baroque Art. In an adjoining room at the entrance, queue up with the locals to buy the nuns’ special radish-and-eucalyptus cough syrup and Carmelite water for nervous tension, among other miraculous cures. On the second floor, one of the first pieces of furniture you’ll see is a bench. Don’t be too quick to grab a seat: legend has it, anyone who sits on it will soon be expecting. From here you can walk back up Espejo, towards the very pretty Plaza Chica (the Sinners brewpub there has recently set out to infuse some modern life to the area), and back up to Plaza Grande (meeting up with our Quito Walk 1) or head further east towards the small, yet very special neighborhood of San Marcos (p. 66).

Walk 4

COLONIAL SPLENDOR

Restoration has undoubtedly played an important role in the Augustinian complex, since its history has proven ebullient. The Sala Capitular (Council Room), where friars convene to make their decisions, was famously the site where Quito’s national heroes signed their Declaration of Independence from Spain. The church and convent were also temporary barracks during the Liberal Movement against the Conservatives in the late 1800s; and legend has it that a soldier once entertained himself targeting decorative elements in the church with his musket. On each side of the church’s intricate altar lie two fantastic canvases by Miguel de Santiago. His work, and that of other fellow masters of the Quito Baroque Art School, is further showcased at the Miguel de Santiago Museum, within the cloister.

ART & CULTURE Camilo Egas Museum

master Jaime Zapata, a must-see!

If you have some time on your hands, this is a museum (and artist of early XXth-century Quito) worth discovering.

FINE ECUADORIAN Theatrum

STOP AND LOOK Inside Teatro Sucre, on the main wall of the lobby find the fabulous mural by Quito

After a show at Teatro Sucre, discover the flavors of our country on the second floor at one of Quito’s finest gourmet restaurants (what is probably the most tasteful version of guinea-pig you could try).

Stop by the box office at Teatro Sucre. You’d be surprised at the artists that make their way to Ecuador to perform here.

Walking the Old Town

Quito’s Historic Barrios

When referring to Quito, anthropologists have long spoken of a fragmented society made up of various “village-states” that ultimately gathered around a central trading center. Some say that trading center was today’s Plaza Grande (others believe it may have been San Francisco square). Around it, many “cities” and not only one, formed the construct of the Ancient Kitu domain. Perhaps, as you set out to explore the neighborhoods that surround the historic core of the Colonial city, you may actually be stumbling upon the hidden village-states that originally made up this uniquely communal Andean realm.

Historic barrios

Mama Cuchara As you walk down Montúfar street all the way to Rocafuerte you get to the Loma Grande neighborhood, also known as Mama Cuchara. Behind you is the Santo Domingo Arch that gives way to the Loma Grande, where the traditional and typical life of a barrio remains intact with local schools, street shops and barber shops. Its name “Mama Cuchara” takes after the Spanish calle cuchara (spoon street) which actually makes allusion to its dead end street.

ART & CULTURE

RECREATION

Centro Cultural MamaCuchara

Qmandá Parque Urbano

(Rocafuerte E3 – 215 y Luis Felipe Chávez) At the end of Rocafuerte street lies the Cultural Center Mama Cuchara, where the Metropolitan Symphonic Orchestra rehearse as well as other choir and guitar ensembles practice and perform.

(Av. 24 de Mayo) Located below Mamacuchara, but it is a space open to the public that seeks to connect both art and sports, an ideal spot to jog, cycle or even enjoy some ecuavoley.

Also check out the agenda at the interesting Fest & Arts space (Montúfar and Rocafuerte)

Vásconez: at the end you´ll find a nice viewpoint that overlooks Parque Cumandá, and El Panecillo.

RESTAURANT

STOP AND LOOK A view to remember Walking down Mama Cuchara or calle Rocafuerte turn to the right on Ambrosio

San Marcos As all the streets seem to fall into a stew of traffic and commerce on the bus-clogged Avenida Pichincha, a good scenic choice is to stay on the historic center’s plateau and wander along Calle Junín (off Flores) into the beautiful neighborhood of San Marcos. The neighborhood really begins at Santa Catalina’s Monastery (Calle Montúfar) but it is on Junín where the essence of one of Quito’s most enchanting barrios can be found.

As you walk down the street you find cafés, restaurants and museums that showcase an eclectic mix of architectural styles and restored houses. The apex (and climax) of the walk down a part of town that magically transcends from downtown bustle into placid neighborhood tranquility, is San Marcos Square, one of Quito’s prettiest, with the San Marcos Church as backdrop.

A TRIO OF MUSEUMS Manuela Sáenz Museum (Junín & Montúfar) This magnificent museum holds a collection of the late belongings of independence leader Simón Bolívar and his everlasting companion Quitoborn Manuela Sáenz, a woman that was perhaps as tenacious as the Libertador himself (and an undoubted precursor of Women’s Lib in South America).

Historic barrios

RESTAURANTS

The Drawing and Watercolor Museum

(Junín E2 – 27) One of the few Colonial houses in San Marcos. Exhibits the work of one of Ecuador’s most prominent watercolor artist, Oswaldo Muñoz Mariño. The space is also open for watercolor and drawing workshops.

Ecuadorian Museum of Achitecture (MAE)

(Junín y Ortiz Bilbao) Learn about the architectural history of Ecuador (large-scale models and old city maps are the highlight).

OUT ON THE TOWN SIRKA Arts & beer (Junín, next to Octava de Corpus) If you are looking for a place to kick back with a few drinks and good music in Old Town SIRKA is the spot. A bar with a unique and eclectic style where art and good beers are its specialty.

STOP AND LOOK Writing on the wall Be on the lookout for signs outside some of San Marcos’ houses that tell the story of the people who used to live in them. One is even believed to be where legendary Cantuña was born (see p. 47)!

San Blas / La Tola All neighborhoods in Quito say they have it all, but few can truly compete with San Blas/La Tola, an oft-ignored corner of the old town that certainly deserves a look around. With a public school, a church, a central market, a boxing training facility, a cock-fighting ring, a bull-fighting ring, shoe-

making facilities, even your odd street masseuse, and all necessary supply and retail stores, San Blas/La Tola is also known as “the capital of Quito” and South America’s “most complete barrio” (as per Ecuadorian President Rafael Correa)!

garden), was one of Quito’s oldest religious constructions. Located in the outskirts of the city, this was where the natives were allowed to (and forced to) attend mass. It later became home to Quito’s first mestizo (mixed-heritage) priest.

A LITTLE HISTORY San Blas Church

LOCATION Sandwiched by parks and a gateway to the Old Town

The church, recently restored with a brand new square (and an eye-catching vertical

The neighborhood’s limits to the north and east are La Alameda and Itchimbía

Historic barrios

EAT LOCAL

parks, meanwhile, walking west, under the Avenida Pichincha overpass, takes you to the old town’s lower eastern limits. A climb awaits to reach the main old town visitor sites. The climb up to Itchimbía park is even steeper, so a quick taxi may be the best bet.

ROMANCE Calle Diego de León Some call it Quito’s prettiest alleyway, a narrow cobblestone passage with colorful older houses, friendly grocery stores and a neighborhood vibe.

STOP AND LOOK Plaza Belmonte An unexpected (and eye-popping) encounter along La Tola’s narrow Leon street is the expansive Belmonte bull-ring. Within the facilities find the Jacchigua performing arts academy, based on Andean folk fashion and dance (check out their agenda @ www. jacchiguaesecuador.com)

OUT ON THE TOWN Bandido Brewing A sidestreet bar that shares the same house as the neighborhood chapel, is now a craft beer dive, your classic (and one of Quito´s pioneer) “brewpubs”, with live music... Also: hop up calle Antepara to Atávico. 69

San Juan To help residents walk their barrio, the curious sidewalk/staircase was implemented, which you may come across if you challenge yourself to a stroll here, although we recommend you take a taxi to your chosen destination(s). Together with the hills Itchimbía and Panecillo, San Juan – once called Huanacauri – was purportedly considered a sacred lookout in pre-Hispanic times: the dapper orange-and-white San Juan Church apparently was built over an Inca House of Sacrificial Virgins, which had been built over a pre-Inca moon-worshipping temple!

ART & CULTURE

TOUCH THE SKY

CLAIM TO FAME

Centro de Arte Contemporáneo

Quito’s Balcony

The Quito quesadilla

The centerpiece of San Juan is its modern art museum. In these remarkable facilities of the old Military Hospital, find some of the most audacious exhibits in the city, with temporary exhibits that showcase the local and foreign avantguard. Exit through the gift shop: Find clever art and design items, as well as Ecuadorian movie DVDs and local music CDs. 70

Take a taxi up to San Juan Park or El Ventanal Restaurant, the city will stretch out before you with the Basílica dominating the vista.

LOCAL EATS Motes de San Juan People take to the curb at lunchtime to get their hominy-and-pork-scratching fix, one of the best versions is certainly here…

You may notice this Quito sweet snack in many bakeries and cafés, but it was actually invented at the small locale Quesadillas de San Juan located just in front of the CAC. San Juan itself is apparently the result of pre-Inca tola techniques, enormous man-made mounds made of cangahua

Chimbacalle Throughout the XXth-century, Chimbacalle was synonymous with Quito’s train station, and for decades, as the train pushed forth progress for the country, the neighborhood turned into a commercial hub and industrial heart. Things would change again, when the more accessible and comprehensive highway system eventually superseded the importance of the Ecuadorian railroad. A recent overhaul of the tracks and carriages has now made the Chimbacalle station, once again, attractive, as one of Quito’s prime tourism attractions. Redolent with vestiges of its manufacturing, industrial past, Chimbacalle, the railway’s barrio, offers an interesting stroll around. MUST-DO Rumble south on Ecuador’s daunting Train of the Andes, considered the “highest train”, and most daunting engineering feat in the world when it was completed over a century ago, in 1908. You can reach nearby destinations including world-renowned Cotopaxi National Park, ride past the spectacle of glorious Mount Chimborazo, tackle a slow-motion rollercoaster ride down the Devil’s Nose, and reach the hot-and-humid rice fields and plantain plantations of the coastal plains, if you so dare traverse the entire Ecuadorian Andes on the one-and-only 4-day luxury Tren Crucero (Cruise Train). www.trencrucero.com

ART & CULTURE Teatro México Once a cinema, it slowly deteriorated. Now, given a new lease of life, it has become one of Quito’s most impressive stages for the performing arts.

The old train station

WITH THE KIDS Museo Interactivo de Ciencias An “all-ages” museum set in an old textile factory with ample space to roam and discover, specially designated interactive play-areas for toddlers and mindand-physics games and experiments for older kids (and adults!)

Admire the old engines and carriages, buy a souvenir, let your children play in the playground or wave some passengers off… 71

Closer to the sun

Quito from every angle Quito is a sculptural city, a city of contours, a fabulous skyline formed by domes, mountains, hills and valleys, and one of the most elevated capitals in the world. Discover spectacular sceneries that loom over the urban foundation at these one-and-only vantage points.

PANECILLO 3016m/9895ft The largest aluminum monument in the world stands atop Little Loaf Hill (El Panecillo), with a remarkable view of north, south and center.

PALACIO DE CRISTAL ITCHIMBIA 2912m/9553ft A spectacular side view of dome-studded old town Quitoâ&#x20AC;Ś ideal for kite-flying and romantic sunset-watching.

CATHEDRAL DOMES 2850m/9350ft A remarkable view of the Plaza Grande and a front-and-center view of the many church domes with the Basilica towering behind them.

Closer to the sun

CRUZ LOMA (TELEFERICO) 3950m/12959ft Climb over 13.000 ft above sea level and admire the city tucked away amid the monumental Andes Mountains.

CIMA DE LA LIBERTAD 3125m/10252ft A historic museum that recalls the patriotic feat of defeating the Spanish army in the plight to achieve independence is also a spectacular southern vantage point of the city.

LA BASILICA TOWER 2899m/9511ft

PARQUE DE SAN JUAN 3010m/9875ft

See Quito from the top of the city’s most impressive monuments.

A special and dizzying view of Quito from the northwest (at about the same elevation as Panecillo).

YAKU MUSEO DEL AGUA 2941m/9648ft Nestled straight above the city’s western slopes, this Water Museum offers great views from its native species.

PLAZA GRANDE 2828m/9278ft Quito’s central square and starting point up to the heavens.

Parks and Recreation

City of Parks Colonial Quito never had it in its plans to leave anything larger than a square without buildings, churches or monuments. North Quito, on the other hand, owes much of its spatial organization to its parks. They seem to have organized the expansion from the Old Town with much needed transitions

between what would otherwise be uninterrupted construction. And Quiteños are certainly thankful, especially on weekends, when they flock to their favorite green spaces to enjoy time with family and friends.

Town, is said to have been the site where the patriot troops rested on May 25th 1822, the day after they liberated Quito from Spain. There was also a School of Fine Arts located here, a place that formed many renowned Ecuadorian artists. Today, it is one of the smallest of the major parks.

LA ALAMEDA PARK

To do list: Take a romantic boat ride. Climb to the top of the mysterious El Churo view-

(Av. Gran Colombia) The oldest park in Quito, just north of the Old 74

point, an enigmatic fake fort that children can’t get enough of. Organize a visit to its centerpiece Astronomical Observatory by calling (593 2) 257 0765 for a Tuesday or Wednesday evening show @ 7:30 PM Find Simón Bolívar, Manuela Sáenz and the Geodesic Mission monuments.

EL EJIDO PARK

(Av. Patria) This unique polygon was

Parks and Recreation

once a free-range cattle-grazing prairie. It has become one of the favorite places for locals to play (and place their bets on) Ecuadorian-style 3-on-3 volleyball… played with a soccer ball… the man with the suitcase is the bookie! Local artists sell their oeuvres outdoors on weekends; a street craft market surrounds the children´s playgrounds; and comedian Michelena paints his face white and satirizes on everything from politics to tradition, El Ejido is a true historic portal that, with much weekend activity, separates the city’s past and present. Don’t miss admiring Quito’s very own Arc de Triomphe, the Arco de la Circasiana. Across the street: To the north begins touristy La Mariscal, and to the east, find a second park,

El Arbolito (The Little Tree), where indigenous protesters camp out, home to the essential Casa de la Cultura, with important art and archaeology collections.

ITCHIMBÍA PARK

(José María Aguirre y Concepción) The almost 360-degree view of this park is incomparable; on a clear day catch sight of Pichin-

cha, snow-clad Cayambe and Antisana, spikey Atacazo and wrinkled Ilinizas in one panoramic go. Believed to have been consecrated to the sun and the moon by ancient civilizations, it turned into a public dump and then was brought back to life as the enchanting park it is today. Quiteños… fly their kites during windy summers… visit the Eiffel-designed Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace) and slot their coins into the public telescope to spot the Old Town domes. Play improvised soccer matches on the central plateau… explore the park´s diverse nature and wildlife… order a hot chocolate at Pim’s to couple with the view… cuddle romantically at sunset as the Old Town lights up. 75

Parks and Recreation

THE METROPOLITAN PARKS Parque Metropolitano del Sur

and the picnic areas. Visitors enjoy its many hiking and cycling trails, home of the dapper Crimson-mantled Woodpecker and other birds.

A forested area located just outside the city, marking its eastern frontier, is believed to be Quito´s “big lungs”, offering a buffer zone and ecological reserve for the city. A great place to disconnect, accessible along the Simón Bolívar Highway.

Also check out: Parque La Armenia in the parish of Conocoto, near El Tingo/ San Rafael, with a very pretty eucalyptus forest…

Parque Metropolitano Guangüiltagua The largest green expanse of the city proper, and quite popular for it, Parque Metropolitano climbs out to the eastern edge of Quito offering awe-inspiring views of the Cumbayá Valley. It is composed of four central areas: the parking and playgrounds; the eucalyptus forest; a treeless area with a few large-scale sculpture installations;

Guápulo Park One of Quito’s newest parks, an absolutely charming site to unwind that marks the northern limits of the steep barrio-town of Guápulo. Trails to explore, great for exercise due to its challenging slope with pretty gardens and ponds, areas to picnic, a central playground and horseback riding activities.

Bicentenario Park Since 2013, Quito’s old airport is in the process of becoming a park. Still dominated by the massive landing strip that was deemed too close

for comfort as the city encroached it over the years, the open space it still offers Quiteño’s has been best utilized for large-scale concerts (including the recent visits of Metallica, Paul McCartney and Cirque du Soleil). Ride your bike where the planes once landed, discover local bands, participate in a running race or you can even camp out at designated sites.

SOUTHERN QUITO Las Cuadras Quito’s southern developments have grown exponentially in recent years, and the old Las Cuadras hacienda has become a crucial breath of fresh air for the population. Landscaped with native plant and tree species, and a nursery to care for and breed them, make it the most ecologically sensitive park in the city…

WITH THE KIDS

Botanical Gardens

La Carolina Park is one of Quito’s largest parks, embedded into the city, cupped by malls and business-office high-rise buildings, in the middle of a bourgeoning financial district. Locals take advantage of its endless possibilities, whether to have a quiet afternoon in the sun, play organized sports, improvise football tournaments, bike, tai-chi, skate… only after dusk is it ever deserted (and not recommended to visit).

volleyball and tennis courts, you’ll also see Quiteños jogging every which way, forming capoeira rounds, doing yoga and exercising in general. There’s a skating rink and a cyclo-cross racing track that is hounded by youngsters of every age.

Vivarium

Mundo Juvenil

Fantasy airplane

A BOAT RIDE FOR TWO

La Carolina is great for fitness-centered activities; equipped with basketball, football,

At the artificial lake rent row boats, pedal boats and water bikes; locals like taking their dates here…

New Town

La Mariscal

Modernity finds mid-20th century Quito longing to expand northward and create a new, exciting city, one that does not retire as early in the evening and is not overwhelmed with churches and cloisters on every block. La Mariscal was just the pioneering experiment in urban planning Quito required, and in only half a century, it transformed itself into what it has become today.

As you walk the streets, you feel the many versions that layer this unique part of town, from castle-wannabes and stoic white mansions with neo-colonial ornaments, tiles, and wrought-iron gates to hip bars and discos that spice up Quito’s nightlife. From the moment Quiteños dreamed of fleeing beyond the confines of their Colonial funnel, La Mariscal has meant modernity, in its many unpredictable forms. 78

To suggest a walking tour for La Mariscal is not always practical, since the area is large and sightseeing activities can involve large stretches without “sights” to behold. But if you’re so inclined, here are two separate walks that may catch your fancy.

New Town

THE PLAZA FOCH AREA If you begin at Plaza Gabriela Mistral, next to the oddly-conceived 1970’s La Ecuatoriana building – you can get good pizza with a good view of the square at corner Cosa Nostra – walk one block over (south) to the neighborhood’s most shaded and picturesque blocks, Calle Juan Rodríguez between Reina Victoria and Avenida 6 de Diciembre. Its appeal is defined by the many mid-XXth century residences that have been left pretty much as is,

though most have been converted into accessibly-priced hostals. Two blocks past, you approach Plaza Foch. If you’re walking on Reina Victoria, you will surely notice La Casa de Eva through its wall-to-wall windows. Only a block away appears Plaza Foch, bizarrely branded the “Foch Yeah” plaza, cupped by bars and eateries. One place worth visiting is the Republica de Cacao café on the left, past Juan Valdez, for its step-by-step display on how Ecuador’s fine dark chocolate is

made (purchase a range of products in the chocolate boutique). Double back and turn left onto Mariscal Foch and then left again onto Juan Leon Mera, and have a look in Quito’s classic bookstore Libri Mundi. Our brunch pick: Magic Bean on Mariscal Foch. Our café pick: Internet café/chocolate house Kallari (inspired by the Amazonian region its products come from: try the guayusa tea, a tropical rainforest coffee substitute).

New Town

Mercado Artesanal and beyond The starting point of our second suggested route is the Artisanal Market (Mercado Artesanal), a wonderful place to shop, simply because it seems to have everything, especially things that one would identify Ecuador’s Andean world with, from ponchos, panflutes, silver jewellery, Panama hats, the always popular “I love Boobies” (as in Bluefooted Boobies) t-shirts to shawls and scarves of every color. Perhaps you can muster places that sell more authentic items, including La Bodega, a shop some three blocks north of the Artisanal Market, on Juan León Mera (if you arrive here, also take a look at AG, Argentum, to pick up some unique trinkets).

Boutique hotel Café Cultura is also on the way here, a stoic mid-XXth century residence good for tea, and across the street from the Artisanal Market, Galeria Beltrán, where you will find the fine canvases of Ecuadorian Impressionist artist Mario Ronquillo. Straight south from the market, across the wide Avenida Patria, reach Parque El Ejido (p. 34), one of Quito’s busiest parks. Across the street you’ll find several institutions dedicated to the arts and culture: Casa de la Cultura, Teatro Prometeo and the large glass building, the Museo Nacional de Cultura, that apart from an important art collection, houses an auditorium and the Alfredo Pareja projection room (with an interesting world cinema agenda). Heading back across the

street, and back across Av. Patria under the Circasiana Arch, walk onto Avenida Amazonas, where one of Quito´s first grand hotels, Hotel Hilton Colón, rises. The second left past it, on Jorge Washington, takes you to the small but quaint Benjamín Carrión Cultural Center, which sometimes houses temporary exhibits (check out the ceiling décor!). Then, one block over, right on Robles, you will reach a church worth visiting, Santa Teresita. You can head back onto Avenida Amazonas, where “tourist-trap” cafés line the sidewalk and your odd handicraft store may catch your attention, such as Ethnic Collection Handicrafts with its bright handwoven rugs. You can also end your walk at picturesque Plaza Yerovi.

New Town

Plaza Foch (Foch & Reina Victoria) The end-all of meeting points for all activities La Mariscal is Plaza Foch: bars, chocolate houses, clubs and restaurants offer Quiteños seeking a good time the ideal place to unwind and grab a beer.

Spanish Language Schools As tourism hub, learning Spanish has become a very important aspect of the La Mariscal lure. Stop by the Simón Bolívar Spanish School, one of the most established institutions that couples language learning with cross-cultural experiences.

Plaza Borja Yerovi (Carrión & 9 de Octubre) Plaza Yerovi is a perfect spot to take a load off

surrounded by tall trees and the view of the colorful houses whose walls have been painted by graffiti artists.

OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST

ART & CULTURE Mindalae Museum (Niña & Reina Victoria) This museum of craft heritage is dedicated to Andean worldview, shamanism, ceramics and crafts, as well as a section focused on forests and their ecosystems.

The list is endless… here’s some of our recommended places: The Hangout (Tuesday and Thursday night salsa): Café Democrático The Nightclub: No Bar Pubs: Cherusker, The Boot, Finn McCools, La Estación Cuban bar and live music: Varadero

New Town

La Floresta La Floresta (the Verdant Grove) followed La Mariscal (p. 78) as one of the first areas to develop out of the Colonial Center during the early years of urban expansion in the 1930s. Its name, and beautiful tile-roof garden residences that still survive from the old days, suggest a nature-dominated highbrow quarter, but the area is fringed by the working-class La Vicentina, Quito’s fast-paced university district and recent high-rise construction development, where banks, hotels, offices and retail stores abound, a multiple personality that makes for one of modern Quito’s most dynamic sectors.

If anything, La Floresta is pedestrianfriendly. Residents have little need to venture out to other sectors of town for their basic needs, and even luxuries are well accounted for. Over the years, the neighborhood has attracted artists and musicians, a fact that has influenced neighborhood hype (with a slew of 82

graffiti artists who’ve claimed the walls). Much is independent and small-scale, so making your way around is an adventure amid arty stores, quaint cafés, specialty grocers, and other offbeat endeavors… Not everything is successful and there is a strong turnover rate: what we may write about today may no longer be with us several months from now. Still, we will try to make our educated guesses on what we think will.

New Town

Friday

DINNER & SHOW Pobre Diablo (Galavis & Isabel La Católica) Bookworms have long found their little corner of their own at this local favorite. By 9 pm, especially on concert night, Floresta marauders crowd the dinner tables to catch the hippest music acts in town (also check out the temporary art exhibits at the “El Container” art

space adjacent to the restaurant).

CULTURE CENTER The Trude-Sojka Institute (Toledo & Coruña) The closest thing to a holocaust museum in Ecuador, set in a beautiful mid-XXth century residence, where the thought-provoking work of Jewish immigrant Trude Sojka is exhibited.

CINEMA Ochoymedio (Valladolid y Vizcaya) Quito’s independent movie house, among the few that project foreign language and arty films. Note: the classic Cafetina has moved from its Ochoymedio cinema (a few houses up) Don’t miss its events, exhibits and fairs in their new place! 83

New Town

Coffee, magazines and more On Galavis and Valladolid, find Ecuador’s leading magazines (travel magazine Ñan and environmental Ecuador Terra Incógnita) and fine coffee and chocolate conglomerate Café Vélez & Hoja Verde. The storefronts are also excellent craft shops for your souvenirs.

Fruits & Veggies Friday outdoor market (Galavis & Isabel La Católica) The market brings together indigenous vendors, specialty producers and an excellent organic produce kiosk. Find fresh shrimp, alternative nutrition, homemade humus, vibrant flowers, and all the fruits and vegetables you could wish for.

LOOK OUT FOR Warmi

Recycled pallets for décor and delicacies that span the culinary spectrum from original pasta sauces, jams to sea salt!

Misquilla

A great selection of traditional Ecuadorian food, excellent craft beer and a first rate traditional Ecuadorian music cover band makes for a great night out!

Zoko

Do stop by this dynamic bar-restaurant for wings and burgers, after parties, even play-doh workshops for kids, decorated with recycled materials (and fancy Mexican calaca masks)! A place to lounge at night: the always-happe-

ning Pepe Botella on narrow calle Gangotena, off Isabel La Católica.

New Town

RESTAURANTS Our picks

DETOUR González Suárez Quito’s “skyscraper” strip, González Suárez, dominated by highrise apartment buildings on each side and manicured sidewalks, offers a pleasant stroll and a number of interesting eateries (Sushi Nori for homestyle Asian, Sweet & Coffee for sinfully sweet desserts, or great value El Hornero brick-oven pizza). A nice café is La Liebre, with a great changing lunch menu, French bakery Cyrano and patisiere Le Petit Patisserie, award-winning Sorbetto ice-cream (according to a plaque on the wall, named one of the 15 best Italian Ice-Cream recipes in the world), Chilean-based cafeteria-style Cassolette (well known for their cheesecakes). A popular midnight-craving joint is Los Hot-Dogs de la González Suárez.

New Town

Guápulo Down the steep, winding cobblestone road just behind Hotel Quito begins one of the city’s most striking neighborhoods, a parenthesis from busy urban life, home to artists, hippies, yuppies, even ambassadors, and the ordinary families that have forever witnessed this gem-of-a-rural-town become part of the city.

Guápulo is still the mountain town it was in Colonial times, which gives it that unique allure and enough opportunities for first-time visitors to be impressed. The enclosed embassy mansion of Spain, funky bars and stores, colorful murals, cobblestone streets and the beautifully frescoed parish church all cling onto the steep hillside that drops into the Machángara River below. Also clinging to the hill: is Quito’s steepest park, beautiful Parque Guápulo, just north from the main church (p. 76). 86

COLONIAL SPLENDOR Centerpiece Church The winding walk down inevitably takes you to the pretty Guápulo square and church, hub of the quiet, respectful neighborhood life that existed before Quito cool took over. Dedicated to Our Lady of the Cloud (a Virgin that appeared to save the life of a dying priest), this beautiful church is well worth taking a look at, with frescoes and excellent examples of Quito’s fine Baroque Art. It is often host to wedding ceremonies on Saturday, always a joyous event to witness.

New Town

NEW TRENDS

On the wall

LOCAL EATS Weekend Ceviche

ROMANCE Mirador de Guápulo

CRAFT STORE Rayuela

Only on weekends, do ceviche lunch on the second curve down (there is no sign, but you’ll see the tables all set up along the veranda and people grabbing onto their hats when its windy!).

At the very top of the road, the Guápulo viewpoint, or Mirador de Guápulo, offers a great view of the Cumbayá valley; there’s a chilly breeze that inevitably brings you-and-your- partner closer. For the strictly vegan: try out Tandana.

Rayuela main street’s second curve

Motes de Guápulo

In front of the main church, at the end of the hill, a hole-inthe-wall is a popular mote-and-chicharrón joint (pork-scratchings-andhominy, a Quito streetfood staple).

OUT ON THE TOWN Nightlife in town gets busy in hangouts like Ananké (pizza’s quite good here), Guápulo Café Arte (known for its warm wine special and the passion fruit or strawberry canelazos) or Palo Santo (with good craft beer and ambience).

STOP AND LOOK @ The statue of Francisco de Orellana at Mirador de Guápulo depicting the Conquistador who discovered the River Amazon on a two year voyage that purportedly began on this very hill (technically, without him). @ Casa Tres Cruces: a pretty private residence tucked away behind Guápulo’s sinous main road. @ Parque Guápulo (p. 76) check out the scenic pond.

FIESTA CULTURE Fiestas de Guápulo Rambunctious four-day festivities in September mix religious dress-up rituals, open-air DJparties and a traditional (and unique) orangethrowing celebration.

For tired legs, there’s a taxi rank by the church, or walk right from the statue down to the traffic light, turn right again and look for the square for a free cab.

New Town

La Carolina Dominated by the multi-faceted La Carolina Park, this growing financial district has also been taken over by pretty corner cafés, excellent bakeries, and good restaurants… as well as Quito’s largest movie house.

An upmarket resi-

dential area-cum-prime business sector for banks and lawyers – and a concentration of hotels for business folk and tourists – certainly deserves variety when seeking out places to grab a bite. And the La Carolina district (named after its recreational park), sometimes called República de El Salvador (after one if its “poshier” streets), boasts

French patissiers as fine as those in France and Italian pizzerias as good as those in Italy…

CAFÉS A la Europe

This year chocolate-shop Cyril went with God-savethe-Queen-themed teas and products, but the true claim to fame are the to-die-for desserts (plus superb French bread, and a croissant-aux-amands that competes with anything in Paris).

Café Europa, a streetside shop that technically belongs to Dann Carlton Hotel is a pretty-in-blue teahouse with excellent deserts and a good lunch menu.Jürgen brings the best of Dutch bakingculture to Quito. Don’t miss out on breakfast here!

RESTAURANTS Pizza to choose from Some like Al Forno better (in an alley-street called Bélgica) while others prefer Cosa Nostra (on

New Town

República de El Salvador)… you decide!

ART & CULTURE Alliance Française French movie night, a fabulous French-language library, French classes… even if you’re not that into France, don’t underestimate its cultural agenda, as this maison française in Quito does put on interesting contemporary art exhibits and your odd outdoor rock fest!

OPEN-AIR GALLERY Art on the Bulevar The north-side of La Carolina Park has become an open exhibition space for large-scale installations. Take a moment to walk.

THE STADIUM Catch local football Naciones Unidas funnels straight into the city’s first Olympic-sized football stadium which is frequently used for international matches, and large-scale concerts. The atmosphere

in the stadium can get at an all-time high when the national team plays (or the rival teams from the city of Guayaquil which spark competitiveness with the locals).

OUT ON THE TOWN Karaoke and more Eloy Alfaro, although a residential area in itself, suddenly gets its very own party started on the corner of Calle Portugal, with bars, nightclubs and karaoke joints open from Wednesday thru Saturday. It has a very relaxed feel and no formal dress code.

SHOPPING Mall Hub La Carolina Park is virtually hemmed on all sides by malls: El Jardín to the southwest, CCI to the northwest (with smallscale retro mall CCNU and spiral-designed El Caracol across the street from it) and Quicentro Shopping to the northeast, where you’ll find many foreign brand-

stores… not the most autochthonous experience, yet handy to know if you’re looking for something specific.

CINEMA Supercines Probably the best bet for catching the latest commercial flicks is the 22-screen Supercines on 6 de Diciembre, about a block south from the stadium. Across the Street, you’ll find Quito’s largest supermarket: Megamaxi.

Art & Culture

Art in Quito: From church to street Colonial Art replaced all the native sky-adoring and nature-loving figures of animals, shaman and suns and moons that for millennia dominated pre-Hispanic Art. And Colonial Quito became all about its churches and Baroque icons, including the Madonna and Child, the saints, and 1001 religious passages. For it, the city earned its fame as the “Quito Art School”, becoming a highlight of Art in Spanish America. As Colonial life came and went, so did the preoccupation of secular imagery, and the bulk of the 1900s turned the artists’ attention to the overshadowed indigenous world that bore the brunt of Colonialism. Indigenism as an artform was all

about the exploitation, suffering and honor of the native populations, and in turn, they offered entire generations of artists and thinkers an identity. Today, the art scene has turned the militance into more eclectic expressions. The truth is, Quito has always been in love with art, image, design and icon… and artists today, as they have throughout Quito’s history, continue to reveal their talent. 90

Getting a gist of Quito art in 5 museums If you have no time (or patience) to spare and you just want to get a quick overview of art in Quito, we recommend: Casa El Alabado on calle Cuenca – the best place to admire pre-Columbian art.

Art & Culture

Pedro Gocial Museum @ San Francisco – A great overview of the Colonial greats. Mindalae in La Mariscal – An overview of Ecuador’s fascinating craft culture. Casa de la Cultura – A general view of ancient, Colonial and Republican art. Guayasamín Foundation Museum – Get to know the work of this emblematic Quito artist.

MODERN ART Guayasamín makes it big A self-proclaimed defender of the woes of indígenas in Ecuador, Oswaldo Guayasamín is a household name in the eyes of Latin American art connoisseurs. Associated with pain and suffering and coarse brushstrokes, Guayasamín was hailed by many 1970s Latin American personalities as Ecuador’s leading artist. To behold: his striking almost abstract renditions of Mount Pichincha and what some consider

his masterpiece: La Edad de la Ira (The Age of Wrath).

Other Quito greats: Victor Midéros: took Colonial motifs to dramatic, almost gaudy extremes. Eduardo Kingman: perhaps the father of “indigenist” art through stylized forms and contrasting colors. Camilo Egas: an “indigenist” painter who spanned a myriad of art genres in his lifetime. Ramiro Jácome: an influential artist who began the healthy move away from “indigenismo”.

Art & Culture

Visit artists at their workshops during Talleres Abiertos Quito (takes place several times a year). Check their Facebook page for more information.

IN A PHRASE 10 living artists

MUST-VISIT Guayasamín’s Capilla del Hombre A magnum opus idealized in life by Guayasamín himself and completed several years after his death, showcases the struggles endured by the native cultures of Spanish America through history. Huge paintings, and a magnificent installation piece with the backdrop of a fabulous view over Mount Pichincha.

MODERN ART Where to… The art scene in Quito is alive and well, although we would all love more places to get to see it. True fine art galleries are very hard to come by. Arte Flacso – With backto-back art exhibits, it’s probably the best place

to find what’s brewing in Quito’s art scene. Contemporary Art Center – Quito’s equivalent to a modern art museum. Galería Ileana Viteri – Perhaps Quito’s only gallery dedicated exclusively to fine art. Artik – A gallery space in La Floresta that mixes artwork with furniture and design. Gibhli – A gallery space on González Suárez dedicated to interior decoration where you may come across paintings by some of Quito’s up-and-coming artists. El Container – Temporary exhibits often showcasing younger creators (part of Pobre Diablo in La Floresta)

Art & Culture

MUSIC Golden Oldies The Baron Alexander von Humboldt who travelled the lengths of South America in the early 1800s is regularly cited for having said that it amazed him how Quiteños “slept peacefully among roaring volcanoes, lived poorly among incomparable riches and turned happy when listening to sad music”. But wait, is it all that sad? You have a listen and decide for yourself (these are some classics you can find on youtube): El Aguacate (César Guerrero) – Benítez’s version is the one to behold. El Chullita Quiteño (Benítez y Valencia) – Grupo Tradición’s disco take on this traditional classic puts a smile on anyone’s face.

La Vasija de Barro (Benítez, Valencia, Adoum, et al.) – Find Atahualpa Yupanqui’s moving rendition… El Alma en los Labios (Benítez y Valencia) – Julio Jaramillo’s version is probably the best! Toro Barroso (Hugo Cifuentes) – check out the Ñanda Mañachi pan-flute extravaganza.

For every new band, a song to discover:

NEW TRENDS Quito’s Indie Scene Quito is seeking to make a name for itself in today’s music world thanks to these talented bands and musicians. Few have ever heard of them, but they certainly live for the love of their art. Help them get known, share with your friends, spread the Quito sounds!

Art & Culture

MUSIC & DANCE Performance Centers Casa de la Música Classical music in a world-class state-of-theart acoustic bubble. Teatro Bolívar - Burned down, and partially restored, one of Quito’s classic theatres is coming back to life in style! Teatro Sucre - Never underestimate the shows that take place in Quito’s finest music hall. Find theatre @ Teatro Variedades, Teatro Sucre, Casa Toledo, Patio de las Comedias…

FESTIVAL SCHEDULE Don´t miss out on the excellent arts-and-culture agenda in Quito… Here are a couple of must-see events, if you happen to coincide with them when visiting.

Sacred Music Fest

fine international classical music performances take the stage of churches and theatres during Holy Week (March/April)

Quito Jazz Festival

Excellent international jazz artists visit Teatro Sucre (March)

Verano Artes Quito

A packed agenda for art, creativity, theatre, street performances in Quito’s parks (August)

Edoc

A fascinating documentary film festival where you will certainly come across movies and stories you never new existed! (May)

El Carpazo

A two-day music fest that features local bands and a couple of international invitees (June)

Shopping

Stuff your suitcase

Mermelada de guayaba

Pacari chocolate

Quiteños are fond of this unsuspectingly delicious jam made of fresh guava… any brand will do…

An array of fine awardwinning chocolate and flavors (includes vegan varieties!) www.pacarichocolate.com

A sandal or T-shirt by Nativa

“Plumas” coffee table book by Murray Cooper

Find these modern Andean-inspired designs at the Krazymix stall on the first floor of the Scala Shopping Mall in Cumbayá.

The beauty and diversity of Ecuadorian birds in the eye of celebrated South African-born photographer. Find at Mr. Books or Librimundi.

Jewelry by María José Cordovez Inventive silver jewelry made out of recycled materials. www.mjcordovez.com

A “Panamá” by Homero Ortega (In front of Plaza San Francisco, or also at Isabel La Católica and Madrid) Among the most established original Ecuadorian “Panamá” Hat manufacturers. www.homeroortega.com

Shopping

Zuleta Embroidered Blouse Embroidery techniques from the village of Zuleta are one of Ecuador’s treasures, which you can find at the Zuleta store (Veintimilla & 6 de Diciembre).

A Chiliquinga Guitar Hugo Chiliquinga was a world-class guitarmaker. His family continues to sell (and make) these fine classical nylon-string guitars that sound like gold! www. guitarrashugochiliquinga. com

A Preserved Rose by Kiara Roses You can’t take Ecuador’s vibrant roses on the plane,

but you can bring back a preserved rose to your beloved. It’ll last a year! www.kiaraflowers.com

Tigua Mask or Sheep-skin Painting The miniscule páramo village of Tigua has created some of Ecuador’s most emblematic naïve art. Find Monday thru Friday at the craft stalls @ Panecillo or on weekends @ the El Ejido Park’s open-air gallery. Also in La Ronda.

Women’s Alpaca Poncho by Inga Alpaca Trade Co. The plushness of true alpaca wool (plus great designs and weaves) www.ingaalpaca.com

A Shigra bag by Natural Maqui The shigra, made with natural fibers, is the classic Ecuadorian native bag; it comes in the most vibrant colors and Natural Maqui has some of our favorite designs! The store: Calle Muros & González Suárez.

A Quito Virgin (and respective garb) El Manto Sagrado specializes in Baroque Virgins and Baby Jesus´s, as well as the tunics they should wear (on Rocafuerte & García Moreno).

A Chess Set Ecuador makes several funky chess-sets, including

Shopping

the wooden Indians vs. Conquistadors brand, or a tagua (vegetable ivory) version featuring Galápagos animals. Find at Mercado Artesanal in La Mariscal.

Panco’s Espadrilles Stylish classic Andean indigenous straw sandals. www.pancos.ec

SOMOS by Swing Original Monks One of Ecuador’s hippest bands, with a clever CD-jacket to fit… contact the band on Facebook!

Tagua jewelry (or massagers) Vegetable ivory is used to make buttons in Europe,

but in Ecuador, find toys, jewelry, decorations and three-point massagers… (Mercado Artesanal)

Palo Santo Think to bring back sacred wood shavings from the Palo Santo tree, found only in the dry forests of South America, and apart from its enchanting smell is also thought to have healing properties. Find them in local markets and organic shops!

Ñan Magazine (Valladolid and Galavis) Ecuador’s travel magazine, a large-format magazine (with remarkable photography) that centers on all things

Ecuador and makes for excellent coffee table reading. www.nanmagazine.com

Café Vélez (Valladolid and Galavis) Premium cloud-forest highland coffee is getting rave reviews among the connaisseurs.

A “Chupillita” Never has felt been utilized with such class! Or so we think… check out these decorations, mobiles and more by talented Fernanda Carrión. Look for Arte en Fieltro – Chupillitas in Facebook to contact the artist.

Just in front of Plaza Grande, the best in Ecuadorian specialty items are showcased at the ample El Quinde… find chocolate, coffee, accessories, crafts and more…

(Reina Victoria y Lizardo García) In this beautiful Republican-styled house in La Mariscal, find a shopgallery that displays interesting artisanal products, ceramics, Panama hats, highlighting Ecuadorian culture. There’s also a branch off of Plaza Grande in the Old Town.

(Jorge Washington, between Reina Victoria and Juan León Mera) The “artisanal market” in La Mariscal is a great place to shop for crafts, souvenirs and clothes, offering a wide range of Ecuadorian fare; haggling here is a must or you will end up paying much more than you bargained for… Notice the great prices on silver jewelry! Also check out, across the street on Reina Victoria, original artwork by several artists, including remarkable neo-Impressionist Mario Ronquillo.

neighborhood; find bamboo, pottery, sculptures, jewelry and art.

El Jardín Shopping Mall (República and Amazonas) Condado Shopping (La Prensa and Mariscal Sucre) Scala Shopping (Av. Interoceánica, Cumbayá)

(Av. Colón and Caamano, also at Quicentro Shopping). A long-standing fine crafts boutique that exhibits clothing, accessories, art and souvenirs that promotes local culture. Check out the museum on the 2nd-floor.

(Av. Francisco de Orellana 367, Cumbayá) An original universe of alternative design and craft in a very special house just past Cumbayá’s main square (clothes, food, paintings, jewelry, makeup courses and an area to style a hairdo). Merchandise changes every 4 months.

(Marchena and Versalles, near Santa Clara market) All the Andean staple ingredients including quinoa flower and yucca starch,

dried fruits and medicinal herbs, the perfect place to acquire native products (and a wide variety of vegetarian options, too!), conceived to help local small-scale farmers.

(Valladolid and Galavis) A designers’ collective of unique art and décor objects in La Floresta.

(Camino de Orellana, Guápulo) A store that has long promoted creative designers in the always picturesque Guápulo

Quicentro Shopping (6 de diciembre and Naciones Unidas) San Luis Shopping (Av. General Rumiñahui and Isla Santa Clara, los Chillos) Cumbayá Shopping (Av. Interoceánica, Cumbayá) Juan León Mera N23-83 Y Wilson

(6 de diciembre N30- 59; Alpallana and República)

(Germán Alemán E12-62 and Juan Ramírez)

(Veintimilla and 6 de Diciembre)

Don’t miss out on the many craft fairs throughout the year (like them on Facebook to know when they take place)… here’s a shortlist: Adefesio; Texturas y Colores, organized by the municipality near Christmas; Talleres Abiertos (visit artists at their workshops), Verano de La Floresta (in July, with over 100 participants…)

Getaways

QUITO GEtaways

100

Getaways

101

Getaways

The kaleidoscopic outskirts of Quito

When we look at a map of Quito, it appears a long and narrow city. But that is only “urban” Quito. Because if we were to look at the map of the entire Metropolitan District, taking into account the 33 official village “parishes” that surround the city center, then the shape changes drastically, and so does the breadth of its travel-and-discovery possibilities. Large or small, most have the enormous fortune to still be true to their identity, located in the country-side, in rural environments where the hectic life of the city is still a far-away notion. Some villages are chilly, located in the high paramo; others are forested, located in the subtropical foothills. In some, it rains; in others, there’s always sun. Some are green and covered in mist, while others still are dry and desert-like. And each is a springboard to adventure, cross-cultural experience, eco-travel and more…

102

Getaways

Cumbayá valley

NEW TRENDS

A new concept of commercial space in the Quito area. Next to La Scala Shopping Mall (between Cumbayá and Tumbaco), old factory facilities offer everything from gyms, a climbing center and an auction house to SuperFoods (for gluten-free, pesticide-free, GMO-free products) and Pentasiente (a gallery/ studio space for emerging artists).

Cumbayá is a valley town located just 30 minutes from Quito, a place known for its agreeable climate 500 meters closer to sea level. High-brow country condos merge with small town village life, and a quick visit offers a great variety of garden restaurants, shopping malls and a placid weekend getaway.

A new street-food-park showcases containers instead of food trucks for all kinds of street food.

OUT ON THE TOWN Restaurant-and-bar hopping Cumbayá’s main square and church is a good starting point to discover suburbia, Quito-style. Find dining options (on occasions, a weekend craft fair gathers to showcase the locals´ talents) and grab a drink @ La Bodega Beer Company,

St. Andrew’s or Vandoo, or go dancing @ Morena Mía.

MALL HAVEN Four malls for all your mainstream shopping: Centro Comercial La Esquina, Paseo San Francisco, Scala Shopping and Ventura Mall (in Tumbaco).

RECREATION Chaquiñán A 20-km shadowy tree-lined back-route from Cumbayá to the placid town of Puembo, ideal for cyclers or runners.

GOING ORGANIC Every Wed. morning find organic produce @ La Esquina Mall. 103

Getaways

The Pichincha adventure Any major street going east to west in Quito seems to head straight into the mountains. And Quiteños certainly don’t take that for granted, making their cherished Pichincha mountains the ideal nearby getaway for adventure and recreation.

GEOGRAPHY Pichincha’s peaks Pichincha is created by two volcanoes (Rucu and Guagua Pichincha) and several peaks (Cruz Loma, Cerro Ungüí, Padre Encantado and Condor Huachana).

ADVENTURE Climbing Rucu (and then to Guagua) One reaches Cruz Loma by cable-car, so the Pichincha adventure can be accessible to anyone. The challenge remains 104

to hike up the peak of Rucu (4794 masl, at over 16,000 feet); you can couple this excursion with a 3 hour hike to Guagua (4784 masl, at about 15,700 feet). It takes about 8 hours both ways if you head up at dawn.

see snow-capped Cayambe, Antisana and Cotopaxi. At the top you could stop for a warm cup of chocolate or coffee to fight the cold páramo weather. (Cable-car ride for nationals: $4.50; foreigners: $7.50)

CABLE-CAR Teleferiqo The city’s Teleferiqo or cable-car takes you up to Cruz Loma in a matter of minutes, allowing you to take in the view of Quito. If you find yourself on a clear day you could even

Want to cycle down a rocky path with a magnificent view? Take your bike with you on the cable-car for some excellent downhill trails!

Getaways

ADVENTURE

The 2/3-day LloaMindo trek

LLOA The town of Lloa rests below the smoking crater of Guagua Pichincha in the southwestern side of the city. Yet its residents have managed to survive an explosion that could wipe them out by maintaining their devotion to Our Lady of Mercy (aka the Virgin of the Volcano). It is said that when the city was established the volcano erupted and desperate Spaniards, who had called this their land, ceremoniously inserted a sculpture of the Virgin inside the volcano. Soon the explosion

subsided. Lloa is now a quiet village that, like most Ecuadorian villages, is centered around its parish church. It comes to life on weekends with residents bringing pots of food to the main square.

HISTORIC TOUR Cima de La Libertad, Templo de la Patria The Cima de La Libertad is located on the hill in front of El Panecillo. It highlights a magnificent view of the city and it is where the Templo de la Patria museum operates. The

1. Swim in the “Waterfall of the Seven Faces”

location marks an important part of Ecuadorian history because it is where the Battle of Pichincha took place. Check out the weapons used by the early XIXth century troops as well as murals that portray Quito’s fundamentally patriotic event.

and experience the Uruaco springs (and ride your bike there!)

2. Walk around the village. 3. Would you dare to go for a high-elevation jog @ the El

Cinto Sanctuary? You may see the locals doing just that at dawn, but the fabulous view is a riveting experience in itself. 4. Challenge yourself to the fuming crater of Guagua Pichincha from a nearby parking lot. 5. Visit La Antigua Hostería.

WITH THE KIDS Vulqano Park A popular amusement park is located at the foot of the Telefériqo for kids to enjoy.

105

Getaways

Mitad del Mundo, where it all comes together Just north of Quito, in San Antonio de Pichincha, lies the most visited attraction in the country, the Mitad del Mundo monument and complex dedicated to the equator and the fact that Quito lies only a handful of kilometers from it. A tourist’s favorite will forever be the joy of standing on the thin yellow line painted on the cement that (fictitiously) divides the planet in two. The almost desert-like contours of this part of the city’s outskirts are actually quite the outing, with many interesting sights to behold.

EXPERIENCING THE EQUATOR Mitad del Mundo’s power lies in a universal constant: the position of the Earth and how it relates to its driving force, the sun. It’s what makes this 0-degree-latitude a point that suggests more than just geography. It encompasses fascinations with science, spirituality, knowledge and legend. It is the place that defines the planet and its movement in space.

The old equatorial monument The first Mitad del Mundo monument was built in 1936 in commemoration of the French Geodesic mission to Ecuador in the 1700s. It was moved to the town of Calacalí and today´s monument (three times larger) was built. Also: visit the UNASUR headquarters… you can’t miss its avant-guard façade. Take the guided tour. 106

Getaways

WITH THE KIDS

Museo Inti-Ñan

During the equinox, dozens of new-age acolytes head out to the major astronomical lookouts, like Catequilla, to meet the sunrise.

ADVENTURE What to do in Pululahua Pululahua is one of the only inhabited volcanic craters in the world. Don’t miss out on exploring its wonders. You can descend from its “Mirador” (lookout) located 10 minutes from the Mitad del Mundo monument into the actual crater (about 3.5-km down narrow dirt roads). Hike or bike: From Moraspungo, 5 minutes from Calacalí, take the winding El Viento path or take the dramatic 13-km downhill to the crater’s base! On a horse: You can rent horses in the town, inside the volcano.

0° LATITUDE Catequilla The Mitad del Mundo monument to many

is where the equator crosses. GPS technology, however, says the top of Mount Catequilla is actually closer to the true 0-degree mark. You’ll find a sculpture of Andean crosses, a recent addition, but this place is believed to have been a Pre-Inca ceremonial site. It is located 240 meters south of the official monument.

ANCIENT CULTURE Rumicucho Pucará de Rumicucho is just a few kilometers south of the Mitad del Mundo monument, offering evidence of the Inca expansion in the region. It is believed to have been used as a fort, temple, observatory, among other things!

PIT STOP Pomasqui Before reaching Mitad del Mundo, comes the interesting town of Pomasqui, a resting stop for travelers. It used to be an old hacienda and you’ll find a main square and two churches. You can visit the unusual Señor del Árbol, a Jesus effigy sculpted into a tree, and while walking around its pretty square, stop for some helado de paila ice cream. With the kids: Visit the Granja de Tío Mario to meet farm animals, including African guinea fowl and adorable rabbits!

Find craft beer @ La Quiteña and Santana near Pomasqui and San Antonio.

107

Getaways

Ruta Escondida The old route to Otavalo is now known by its poetic, nostalgic name: la ruta escondida, or “the hidden route”. Since the construction of the Pan-American highway (the new route paved through the mountains to the east), there are very few people that still choose to pass by the forgotten road. From the turn-off that

marks the entrance to Parque Jerusalem, detouring left at the Río Pisque bridge, we enter a realm where the simple pleasures of the past seem intact.

THE ROUTE Remote Villages The Hidden Route passes by a number of small, enchanting villages whose traditional daily rural life has remained intact and are certainly worth visiting:

108

Puéllaro The first town you reach, a half-Colonial enclave with two churches and a curious cemetery. A moving Holy Week ritual takes place on Holy Tuesday, during a candle-lit procession through town.

Perucho A wonderful colonial wooden church is the dramatic centerpiece of town. On weekends, Perucho homemakers make a fine sancocho; visit the tangerine plantations on the road to the left of the main church (a special tangerine wine is also sold).

Getaways

GUAYLLABAMBA

The Town

AT ONE WITH NATURE Parque Jerusalem One of the few remaining Andean dry forests in Ecuador, Jerusalem Park is home to a number of unique plant and animal species. It is a rare and unique ecosystem that offers ecological hiking trails, a camping area, and educational visits for local schools.

Chavezpamba Less than 50 houses make up this tiny town, at the foot of Cerro Itagua, with carpentry workshops at Don Bosco and visits to the nearby Cubi river.

Atahualpa A silent yet beautiful highland town that honors the great inca of Quito, with

access to Mojanda lakes, and nearby thermal baths at El Valle Encantado and El Paraíso.

The Guayllabamba Zoo

San José de Minas A remote town home to many legends; they say ghosts from the ancient gold mining town still roam the old homes. Find interesting votive offerings that depict the miracles of Our Lady of Charity (she was able to rid the area from a plague of rats!)

ADVENTURE Two-wheel adventure

Local eats

A great biking trail takes you from just before Jerusalem up to Malchinguí… you can continue on to the town of Tabacundo, near Otavalo.

109

Getaways

Quito’s wild west, the Noroccidente

loggers have turned into tree huggers, wrapped in purifying mist, surrounded by orchids, dominated by the fluttering of an overwhelming variety of birds...

Eco-tourism at its best This region descends the western slopes from Mount Pichincha and has become Ecuador’s gateway into the world of ecological travel, due to its proximity to the 110

country’s capital city, its formidable bioregional endemic wildlife, its spectacular scenery and mega-diversity… To this equation, add a pretty mountain town (Nono) and pre-Columbian ruins (Tulipe): a magical destination.

COMMUNITY Yunguilla Stay with local families at this sustainable tourism project and discover its protected forests. (Turn

Photo: Santiago Molina

“Noroccidente” is Spanish for Northwest… But this is hardly the arid world of cacti and coyotes, where sheriffs and renegades fight it out at the saloon. The area actually evokes quite the opposite image, with dazzling forests and colorful wildlife; a nature haven where

off at km. 26 vía La Independencia).

ROAD LESS TRAVELLED The Eco-Route

Part of a pioneering project of making unpaved roads into a system of ecologically-inclined paths that offer sustainable development for communities. Waterfalls, a crystalline mountain river that rumbles by, pure and healthy primary forests… the perfect scenic route!

Getaways

HIGHWAY PITSTOPS

Must visit: Yanacocha, a unique elfin forest that extends over what was once an ancient pre-Inca irrigation system for Quito: an easy walk and amazing mountain landscape. Seek out… the unforgettable Swordbilled Hummingbird!

THE VILLAGE Time stands still in Nono A town cupped by mountains and forest with a handful of restaurants, an empanada joint-andcorner-store (the owners invite you to look into the eclectically decorated home), embellished by pretty houses, a peaceful

square and mountain haciendas.

ANCIENT CULTURE Museo de Tulipe (9 km in from km. 60 via La Independencia) Possibly the most interesting “site museum” within the Metropolitan District of Quito: ceremonial pools that served as astronomical observatories of the ancient Yumbo civilization.

LUXURY HOTEL Mashpi Mashpi Lodge is the height of sophistication amid the lush subtropical world of virgin Chocó,

EXPERIENCE WITH BIRDS Angel Paz’s Bird Refuge This Antpitta-whisperer is nothing short of a celebrity in the birding world. Antpittas are extremely hard-to-find birds, but Angel has developed a way of luring the most furtive species from the forest floor onto his hand (the birds actually respond to names he gives them, like Rosita, Cariño, Susan or Shakira). He also organizes visits to his active Cock-of-the-Rock lek. (call 593 9 8725 3674).

a beautiful place to be pampered in the middle of a cloudforest private reserve.

SLEEP TIGHT IN THE FOREST Eco-lodges Waking up to the dawn chorus of mega-diversity is a one-and-only experience in the accessible, and beautiful eco-lodges that dot the magnificent green. Bellavista (Eco-route) www.bellavistacloudforest. com El Séptimo Paraíso (on the Mindo road) - www. septimoparaiso.com Sachatamia Lodge (just before the Mindo turn-off) - www.sachatamia.com El Monte (Mindo) - www. ecuadorcloudforest.com

111

Birdwatching

World Champs Taking into account the city’s metropolitan boundaries, Quito is one of the most megadiverse cities on our planet. A definite bird capital. And countless bird-lovers have turned it into one of the highest-ranking bucket-list destinations in the world…

ALL IN ONE PLACE Everywhere you go in and around Quito you´ll find birds. The magic of it is that they are different depending on where you go. You have high mountain habitats, Andean dry forests, humid cloud f orests, windswept páramo, rivers, gullies, grasslands, waterfalls, all within unparalleled accessibility and reach.

112

The earlier, the better: beat the city traffic to get to your chosen destination when the birds are most active.

Cock-of-the-Rock:

A one-and-only cotinga with a world-class courtship dance (visit Refugio Paz de las Aves)

Tanagers: Tanagers

come in every color and radiance… find as many as you can.

Hummingbirds: A bird-

ing boom has brought the spectacle of diversity to hummingbird feeders all around Quito. You can see

over 20 species in a day if you do it right!

Toucans, parrots and quetzals: The most

exotic of world species can be found at little distance from the city.

Páramo highlights:

A unique tundra-like world offers an entirely different set of birds, including the Andean Condor.

Birdwatching

BIRDING PLANNER You have only 1 morning YANACOCHA: One of Quito’s great natural experiences in a montane elfin cloud forest: about 1h from Quito. PULULAHUA: Twitch inside an ancient crater (and when you’re done, stop at one of the world’s only crater towns!) JERUSALEM: A unique Andean deciduous forest only 30 minutes from the city proper.

1-day ANTISANA (about 1h from Quito): The magic of páramo at the foot of a spectacular snow-capped volcano; home of the Andean Condor and La Mica Lake. Head back to Quito by 3 pm. ECO-ROUTE: Bird along Pichincha’s back road into sumptuous cloudforests and return swiftly along the main highway.

PAPALLACTA: Head 1h east, bird in paramo and then towards Amazonia (Guango Lodge), and reward yourself with a dip into invigorating thermal baths @Papallacta.

2-to-3-days

Spectacular birding adventures await. Record-breaking bird species numbers, great lodges, little travel time! TASTE OF AMAZONIA: Papallacta Pass – Guango Lodge – San Isidro – WildSumaco THE MINDO AREA: Yanacocha – Eco-route – Angel Paz – Milpe – Silanche THE OLD CHIRIBOGA ROAD: Chiriboga – Tinalandia – Rio Palenque MASHPI: Angel Paz – Gualea Caves – Mashpi – Pachijal

URBAN BIRDING

Ecuador happens to possess the highest density of bird species anywhere, with over 1,670 species in an astoundingly-reduced geographical area!

113

Conservation

Life at its purest What makes our city so ‘megadiverse’? There may be many answers, but perhaps the most poignant is as simple as our Andes Mountains, thrusting upwards from beneath the lush tropics like nowhere else along the equatorial

line. It makes for perpetual snow, a myriad microclimates, subtropical cloud forests, rapid-river gullies and more. Every fold is its own universe, where species of all kinds thrive in unprecedented, unparalleled diversity.

114

but this larger mammal is emblematic of the high Andes’ eastern cordillera, with its characteristic elephant-like trunk.

The puma

EMBLEMS OF QUITO’S NATURAL WORLD The Mountain Tapir

This great mountain cat, whose name actually comes from the Kichwa language, hides deep inside montane forest. Some say Quito, from a distance, is shaped like a puma.

South America is usually devoid of large animals,

Bromeliads

These beautiful plants

cling on to the branches of trees, quintessential representatives of montane forest.

The Guanto

A unique, long, tubular flower idiosyncratic of Andean gardens, and in special places, lures its symbiotic partner, the astounding Sword-billed hummingbird.

The Andean Condor

The largest flying bird and a páramo denizen that

Conservation

PROTECTED AREAS

Within the district

glides high in the sky and decorates Ecuador’s coat of arms.

Polylepis

Quito’s only native conifer, a low tree of higher elevations whose bark seems to be wrapped in a silky reddish paper.

The Spectacled Bear

Orchids

Ecuador is orchid country, and year round you can witness the blossoming of this beautiful flower in natural areas (the best season: December thru June in the West; and June thru September on the East).

Hummingbirds

Icon of the Ecuadorian cloud forest (and served as inspiration for Paddington Bear), which has become a conservation flagship for the city.

Relentless, minuscule flyers that can fly backwards and flap their wings over 9 times per second! Their beauty and scintillating plumage are a true wonder of nature.

Glass Frogs

The Llama

This picture-perfect frog typically has a green-colored back, but transparent underparts! You can actually see the heart, liver, stomach and intestines through its belly’s skin!

This high Andean camelid, with its wooly fur and characteristic face, is an iconic figure of the patchwork landscapes surrounding the capital.

Just outside of Quito’s perimeter

115

Festivities

Fiesta culture Local festivities in Quito (and the rest of the country) are true sights to behold. They showcase unique expressions of faith, unity and fashion that open a window into culture and heritage like few other experiences can. Color, music, fabrics, fireworks, dancers, faith and religionâ&#x20AC;Ś village, town and city festivities have it all. Cultural syncretism mixed with ancient traditions, local fiestas happen all year round! With iconic characters, iconic costumes, a lingo and cuisine that revolve around them and make up their essence, though traditions seem to vanish through time, in some celebrations, they actually offer a formidable window into the past.

DRESS TO IMPRESS Costume Frenzy Tradition dictates that the locals dust off their old costumes and go out to the festivities in honor of Mother Earth, the sun or a specific saint. These costumes, sewn with ribbons and colors of eras past, fashion identity: they can even include cowboy hats, llama-wool chaps, plastic dolls, silver coins from the 1800s, wooden

116

masks, gaudy shawls, gorilla disguises or plumes and spider-ridden moss, a love for turning into something else bequeathed by parents, grandparents and forefathers.

These are just some of the festivities celebrated in Quito and the outskirts during the year:

Festivities

Holy Week (March/April) The most important Catholic holiday in the country includes a series of unique celebrations: check out the orthodox Dragging of the Robes on Wednesday in the Cathedral, or the fervent people’s Jesus Almighty Procession (Jesús del Gran Poder) on Good Friday. Don’t forget the suburbs: Also interesting are The Floats of Puéllaro, an intimate (and silent) candle procession on Holy Tuesday that carries 12 antique

floats depicting various saints, Virgins and Christ statues; or Holy Friday in Alangasí in which, in an interesting twist of events, the devil is the protagonist of a deeply religious festivity (when Jesus died on the cross, for two days evil ruled). Flamboyant “devils” parade through town!

Corpus Cristi (June) A Catholic celebration that coincides with native solstice ceremonies, merging into one since Colonial times. One to look out for: It takes

place in the southern district of La Merced. Several small communities build “castles” (castillos) made out of reeds that they eventually take to the main square, as an enormous straw doll called the Palla parades through the streets. Another nearby highlight: about an hour from Quito, in the town of Pujilí a spectacular parade features colorful danzantes (dancers) that flaunt elaborate headdresses over a meter tall.

117

Festivities

Fiestas de Guápulo (September) The inhabitants of Guápulo celebrate Our Lady of Guadalupe, which rests inside their church. It has become the most traditional of the innercity celebrations, and mixes fireworks with the burning of the castillo, people’s bands with DJs and cumbia, oranges and flowers and traditional aruchicos with gorillas!

Día de los Difuntos (November 2nd) All Soul’s Day à la Quito is a colorful event that takes place at the cemetery, where people commemorate family members that have passed away. Quiteños visit their departed with food, which they eat at

118

the tomb. Throughout the city, homes and restaurants prepare the All Soul’s Day special: colada morada (a thick berry-and-corn drink) and guaguas de pan (bread dolls). Places to witness: Calderón (just north of Quito) and San Diego Cemetery (old town).

Fiestas de Quito (December 6th) Quito Fiestas honor the not-so-official Spanish foundation of Quito (some argue the city was actually founded on August 28). Nowadays, it has become an excuse to party for four days straight to the beat of chivas (open party buses) which cruise through the streets blasting tropical dance music and endless servings of warm canelazos. You should catch:

The children’s go-cart race down Calle Mejía.

Pase del Niño procession (December 24th through January)

A festivity that commemorates Jesus’ birth; people dress as saints and angels while singing prayers or carols.

Día de los Inocentes (December 28th) Ecuador’s equivalent to April Fools’ Day, celebrated with colorful costumes that parade the streets. A curious tradition: a popular newspaper Últimas Noticias prepares mock headlines.

Yumbada In the urban suburbs of north Quito, the Yumbada celebrates a Pre-Inca celebration, a three-day

Festivities

WHO’S WHO The protagonists

festivity that ends with the ancient dance and dramatic performance of the Killing of the Yumbo (forest shaman).

End of year celebration Ecuador’s unique way of

celebrating New Years is by honoring el Viejo (the “old” year) and burning effigies at midnight. Another curious custom: men dressing in drag as widows (viudas) asking for money (and kisses) in the street.

Vacas locas: Or crazy cows: a metal structure that resembles a cow and is filled with fireworks. Caretas: Paper or wire masks. Everyone seems to wear them whenever there’s a celebration. Castillos: A fireworks-filled wooden structure that resembles a castle and explodes at the height of the party. Bombo: A small drum made out of wood, goat and sheep skin, that marks the beat to traditional dancing parades. Pingullo: A small thin flute with three holes that accompanies the dancers. Banda de pueblo: A marching band that plays traditional Andean music during festivities. Prioste: The person chosen to organize (and pay) for the festivities. Some festivities can have well over 50.

119

Beyond

Antisana, Quito’s Shiest Volcano

HIGHLIGHTS

Antisana is the closest snow-capped peak from Quito yet it is by far the least familiar, and in any Quiteño’s mind, the most remote. It towers a mere 50 kilometers from the city, rising above the Eastern Andean Cordillera between Mounts Cayambe and Cotopaxi. But, unlike its neighbors, a vantage point from which to actually get a good view of it from Quito is few-and-far-between. Which is not to say that this hidden gem of the Quito landscape is not well worth the visit. ANTISANA EXPERIENCES Fresh trout fished locally at the nearby lakes, on the menu at restaurants leading up to the reserve gates. A chance to spot Ecuador’s national bird (and the world’s largest flying bird), the stoic Andean Condor, across the gully at its roosting sites on the cliffs of Antisanilla. Grebe and duck spotting, if not a placid view of LochNess-like Laguna La Mica.

THE TOWN Gateway: Píntag Píntag, with its beautiful church and characteristic stone-clad plaza, is the portal to the majestic eastern Andes cordillera, from where you can explore not only Antisana, but Sincholagua volcano, too. The town is also known for an enigmatic 100-meter tunnel, a catalyst for local spook stories, and picturesque

120

isolated houses, patchwork farmlands and cornfields.

Energizing páramo hikes to the lake and to different lookout points that, on clear days, gloriously highlight the mother volcano!

ADVENTURE Hike from Papallacta A well-known 2-day trekking route takes us from the Papallacta Lake

into the Antisana Reserve, past Santa Lucía lagoon and through to La Mica.

The Black-faced Ibis: a specialty bird pretty much only found within the reserve, which proves just how special Antisana’s páramo really is!

Beyond

Gateway to Amazonía

AT ONE WITH NATURE Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve

About an hour and a half from Quito, as you pass by the city’s international airport in Tababela, make your way to the thermal-bath enclave of Papallacta, located south of the Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve. Take numerous trails, enjoy heavenly volcanic hot springs and then head out into the Amazonian foothills.

Within 403,103 hectares, great biodiversity lies, as well as the view of four important peaks, including snow-capped Cayambe, active Reventador, Sarahurco and sculptural Cerro Puntas.

Birding Lodges Adventure sports, hiking, camping, and birding… due to record-breaking numbers of bird species. These are some of the best birding lodges to experience: San Isidro Lodge – www.cabanasanisidro.com Guango Lodge – www.guangolodge.com Wild Sumaco – www.wildsumaco.com

RELAXATION Hot springs resort Papallacta is well known for its thermal baths. Termas de Papallacta is one of the most soughtafter nearby destinations in Quito (do reserve with time, especially for weekend stayovers) to enjoy the spa area with various pool options

ranging from ice cold to plus 37-degreeCelsius-hot ).

EAT LOCAL Specialty A Papallacta specialty is trout. Ask for the “al ajillo” version (with herbs and garlic).

ADVENTURE For all tastes Cuyuja - Past Papallacta, reach Cuyuja, one of Ecuador’s main rock climbing destinations! White-water rafting -

The rivers born from the Antisana and Cayambe snow peaks become spectacular rapids that make their way into the mighty Amazon River, a great opportunity (among the best in the world) to white-water raft. Find out more: The Jondachi Fest is a several-day international rafting tournament you can look into… Hike to the lakes Papallacta has great trails to explore at its Cayambe Coca Reserve entrance. If you are up for the task you can hike to Laguna Parcacha or Laguna Loreto. 121

Beyond

Cotopaxi & south of Quito

Couple your visit with a brunch at popular Café de la Vaca and try the delicious “locro” soup in all its varied forms.

Ecuador’s second most visited national park after the Galapagos Islands is Parque Nacional Cotopaxi, located only a little over an hour’s drive from the capital. An unforgettable highlight of the Andean cordillera, Cotopaxi is a gorgeously symmetrical snow-cone that recently became active and can still be visited (though not climbed). The entire area offers awe-inspiring adventure, scenery and culture and is worth a couple of days to truly take in!

VISITING THE PARK Limpiopungo Lake An inspiring páramo walk awaits amid Andean gulls and lapwings and the dramatic backdrop of Mounts Rumiñahui and Cotopaxi. (Check on the current status of the volcano before setting off.)

RECREATION El Boliche This “páramo park” is one of the Ecuadorian Rail-

122

road’s prime Quito-area stop, you can also reach by car. It offers camping, hiking trails and a llama and alpaca park.

ADVENTURE Horseback ride to Bombolí Hacienda La Alegría organizes a life-changing 2-day journey from the highlands over Mount Corazón (Heart Mountain) and into the lush subtopics to the small reserve of Bombolí.

OVERNIGHT Some of Ecuador’s most cozy and special hacienda-style stay-overs are found in the region: El Porvenir www.tierra delvolcan.com Hacienda La Alegría www.haciendalaalegria. com Black Sheep Inn (for Quilotoa “loopers”) www.blacksheepinn.com San Agustín de Callo www.incahacienda.com La Ciénega www. haciendalacienega.com

THE SCENIC ROUTE The Quilotoa Loop Stop at the picturesque town Pujilí, head into the back mountains to discover naïve art in Tigua and stand in awe at the astoundingly turquoise crater lake of Quilotoa, (can easily turn into a several-day adventure).

Beyond

Otavalo & Imbabura For non-Ecuadorians, the small craft town of Otavalo is arguably as famous as the country’s capital. Thanks to one of Ecuador’s most effective marketing operations (which, back in the 1950s, involved ponchos at the UN and pan flutes on Times Square), a livelihood was secured for the ever-industrious Otavaleños, making their Saturday street fair an everyday event flocked by tourists from around the globe. But the province of Imbabura offers many attractions, from awe-inspiring Andean patchwork

landscapes to restored Colonial haciendas, a snow-peak on the equatorial line, mountain lakes, pre-Columbian pyramids, colorful embroidery and more…

sell and trade all possible domesticated creatures (from guinea pigs to llamas) and continues in town with the produce market and the arts-andcrafts fair. A shop-till-youdrop adventure.

THE LURE Otavalo markets

CLAIM TO FAME Roses and the Equator

They call Otavalo’s Saturday market the largest street fair in South America. It begins at dawn at the fascinating animal market, where locals buy,

Rose plantations line the main highway as you head north to Otavalo. Nowhere else on earth can roses be grown

all year round, under the watchful eye of a snow-covered volcano: Mt. Cayambe!

ANCIENT CULTURE Cochasquí Archaeological Park Take this fascinating tour in and around a series of man-made mounds that unearth the astronomical prowess of northern Ecuador’s ancient inhabitants.

123

Beyond

SHOPPING Cotacachi’s Leather Emporium Hundreds of clothing -shoe-and-accessory stores on Calle 10 de Agosto feature the town’s central commodity: leather. (Take a special look at La Curtiembre, Ecuecueros or Azarpay). Also in Cotacachi: Grab a coffee at Río Intag Café, admire the church’s stonework, catch an artfilm at AMI Cine Teatro and try rose-petal ice-cream at La Mirage Boutique Hotel.

X MARKS THE SPOT Quitsato A 52m-diameter solar clock purportedly located exactly on the equatorial line. Depending on the projection of the shadows against the pole you can tell the time (and on sunny days, the pole seems to cut across stunning Mt. Cayambe in the distance).

CRAFTS Zuleta embroidery The bar of finesse and

Views, gardens, Colonial artwork, generous service and cottages with a fireplace and an unparalleled flare for romance! Reservations for two at: Cusín www.haciendacusin.com Pinsaquí www.haciendapinsaqui.com Chorlaví www.haciendachorlavi.com Pantaví www.hosteriaspapantavi.com Casa Mojanda www.casamojanda.com Zuleta www.zuleta.com

124

aesthetics was taken to extreme heights in terms of embroidery in the beautiful Andean town and hacienda of Zuleta! www.zuleta.com