Isla A/W 13
Isla A/W 13
Find Yourself. ‘From the outside, in.’ An article discussing the relationship between the fashion industry and rural living, featuring the viewpoints of three experienced industry professionals. Words and Illustrations by Rachael Moore. Pages 4-7
‘Think outside, no box required.’ A photographic story by Rachael Moore. Model Joseph Gray. Pages 8-17
‘Your survival kit.’ What do you carry with you every day? How do these objects represent your individual identity? Pages 18-24
Find us at www.twitter.com/IslaMagazine www.IslaMagazine.co.uk #IslaAW13
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From the Outside, In. “High places and extended views have ever been propitious to the excursions of imagination.” -William Gilpin.
Whether we like it or not, technology has changed the fashion industry beyond recognition. Rachael Moore discovers what happens when you swap the high-tech rat race, for a slower, more detached and pastoral lifestyle. With one-third of the UK’s population living in the South East and approximately 8 million people living in London, by moving away from it all, do you gain an altered, more ethical, outsiders view on the fast paced and controversial fashion industry? Furthermore, how do your new surroundings enhance and influence your identity? Stylist and Art Director Romaine Lillie has worked for fashion publications, Vogue and Elle. She has moved back to her home town of Tynemouth since having her son Blue. Having worked in London for many years, Romaine has become concerned that “the fashion industry is still very London-centric.” She told me that “it’s interesting to note the way people dress in different areas. I have travelled a lot and I’m inspired by everything, including the landscape and architecture that surrounds me.” Romaine explains that “fashion has different levels, for different demographics in the UK and the industry thrives on this.” This mix of tastes and ideals should lead to diversity, something which Romaine believes is very important as ultimately, “fashion is about regeneration, it’s new and exciting every season. Influences, styles, models and trends should be diverse. Fashion plays an important role in reflecting the times in which we live and how we wish to be perceived by others so it should have a feel good factor for all.” Isobel Davies is the founder of ethical knitwear brand Izzy Lane. A Londoner at heart, in 2006 she swapped this urban lifestyle for the fields of Richmond in Yorkshire. To live out her dream of running an ethical British knitwear brand, a cause which she is fiercely passionate about and whole heartedly dedicated to.
Living an isolated lifestyle has undoubtedly affected Isobel as an individual, “instead of a cityscape, I am in a wild, natural landscape. It’s quite heavenly after over 20 years of London life. I have a beautiful stone built house on the edge of town, looking onto a medieval pasture across the Swaledale Valley.” The move has lead Isobel to “re-evaluate what it is to be human. We live, it is fleeting and then we die. There is perpetual birth, life and death all around me. I am aware of both my insignificance and significance. There is less interference, more clarity and purpose. I have become more me.” She does however admit that when she and Ernest, the local Shepard who helps her care for the flock, are “kneedeep in a snowdrift with the wind whistling through the Swaledale,” that she occasionally reminisces “enviously about nipping out for a quick coffee in fashionable clothes.” Gaining an outsider’s view has, for Isobel “highlighted the extent to which fashion exists in a bubble, distant and detached from the origin of the products. Much of the industry is self obsessed! I would love to see fashion used as a means to something, rather than an end in itself.” With no formal fashion training Isobel feels that “being on the outside” of the industry from the start has given her a more objective and critical view of it. When casting models, Isobel believes the vital qualities are “beauty, intelligence and integrity.” Now 47, I wonder if Isobel is happy with her appearance, in a time when women of all ages are bombarded with digitally distorted beauty ideals? “I am, ageing doesn’t consume me at all. I gain so much satisfaction from other things in my life, I don’t see any need to be preoccupied by my looks.” It is without a doubt that the idyllic landscape surrounding Isobel inspires the “Izzy Lane” collections. “My design influences come from past and present. I reference back to my London life in the underground music scene, the Punk
eras and the street styles of 60’s and 70’s. However, what has the most profound and noticeable effect on the collections is the colour palette of the moors that are all around me.” I was interested to know how ethical garments enhance the buyer’s identity and if Isobel thought this was the case? “Yes absolutely. It gives them depth, a soul and a conscience. It makes them strong, cutting edge and relevant. They are the people who will determine what our future will look like, rather than just passengers taking the back-seat. It makes them sharp and bright, not apathetic and detached.” Overall she believes that “people will always want to look good, but it’s increasingly becoming more important to feel good about what you’re wearing.” Isobel believes that fashion, “is a form of self-expression like music or art.” She says that “there is too much narcissism and vanity, making it disposable and without any value beyond itself. It’s a shame” she told me, “fashion could change the world for the better. People need to get back to their roots to create with greater purpose.” Isobel believes that we are living in revolutionary times, “in this economic climate, the only power we have is what we buy! What we buy is going to determine what our future will look like. If we buy crap, we will produce crap. We need to slow down our purchases and when we do make them, make real conscious choices.” Rosa Park, the editor of Bristol based travel and lifestyle publication Cereal, is fascinated by how nature can “remove you from your comfort zone and force you to confront situations that you would never come across in the city. You stop talking and taking photographs, hit pause and take in and learn from what’s in front of you.” The powerful influence of nature and the different landscapes that surround us is undeniable. Gaining an outsiders view allows us to not only recognise and appreciate the beauty and fragility of the natural world, but also to realise its ability to enlighten, inspire and enhance our individual identities. Find them at www.romainelillie.com @Isobel_Davies @IZZY_LANE www.izzylane.com @rosa_park www.readcereal.com
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Knitwear by Izzy Lane.
“What has the most profound and noticeable effect on the collections is the colour palette of the moors that are all around me.� -Isobel Davies.
“Fashion could change the world for the better. People need to get back to their roots, to create with greater purpose.� -Isobel Davies.
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Think Outside. No box required.
“Great things are done when men and mountains meet. This is not done by jostling in the street.� -William Blake.
Photographs by Rachael Moore. Model Jospeh Gray.
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Your Survival Kit.
“Our sentimental attachment to objects is one of life’s greatest consolations.” -Orhan Pamuk.
Photographs by Rachael Moore.
What do you always forget? A pen for University.
What is the most personal thing in your bag? The bag its self, I got it for my 18th birthday from my Mam, I cried and couldn’t believe that I actually had a Mulberry.
Describe your bag? Full of everyday essentials and a few extras.
What do you always have with you when leaving the house? Keys, phone, purse, lip gloss and a powder brush.
Maggie Ibbetson
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What do you use the least? My travel pass.
What is the oldest object in your bag? My ID photograph.
What is the most personal thing in your bag? My address book with all my contacts and important information in.
What do you always have with you when leaving the house? My keys, address book and my purse.
Describe your bag? Full of organised mess!
Rita Cunningham
What is the newest thing in your bag? The William Morris fabric samples.
What is the most personal thing in your bag? A photograph of my daughter Rachael aged four.
Which item do you always forget? My glasses.
What do you always have with you when leaving the house? My keys, phone and purse.
What’s your occupation? NHS Radiographer.
Susanne Moore
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What do you use the most? Lip balms and my phone.
What is the most personal thing in your bag? The photographs of me and my Mum and my IPod.
Describe your bag? Organised, useful and heavy.
What do you always have with you when leaving the house? My purse keys, phone, lip balm and my metro pass.
What’s your occupation? Fashion Communication Student.
Rachael Moore
Describe your bag? An East-pack backpack full of necessities, and a banana.
And the oldest? Probably the bag itself.
What is the newest thing in your bag? My Basket Ball shoes.
What do you always have with you when leaving the house? My keys, wallet, Ipod and phone.
What’s your occupation? Sports Science student.
Joseph Gray
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And the least? My makeup.
Which item do you use the most? My Phone.
What is the oldest and the newest thing in your bag? My Cath Kidston cosmetic bag is the oldest item and the newest is my Tartan umbrella. These North East winds ruin my brollys.
What is your favourite or most personal object in your bag? My Chloe perfume. I love spraying it. It smells lovely makes me feel elegant.
Charlotte Barraclough
Isla A/W 13 Volume 1.
“The human spirit needs places where nature has not been rearranged by the hand of man.� -Unknown.