explore WHISKY | Winter 2018

MACALLAN • BALVENIE • SINGLETON OF DUFFTOWN • GLENLIVET • GLENFIDDICH • ABELOUR • SCAPA & MUCH, MUCH MORE… Matthew McConaughey & Eddie Russell’s NEW WHISKEY SPEYSIDE IN FOCUS PORT ELLEN, BRORA & CONVALMORE DIAGEO’SDISTILLERIESGHOST THE KINGS OF THE WHISKY TRADE ROYALTYWHISKY WHISKIES85TASTED $9.95 (INC. GST) 9348006000176

TWO WORLDS, ONE MACALLAN The perfect balance of American and European sherry seasoned oak casks

Please savour responsibly

JACK DANIEL’S OLD NO.7 40% ABV (80 PROOF) AND JACK DANIEL’S & COLA 5% ABV (10 PROOF). JACK DANIEL’S AND OLD NO.7 BRAND ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS. ©2018 JACK DANIEL’S. DISTILLED AND BOTTLED BY JACK DANIEL DISTILLERY, LYNCHBURG, TENNESSEE. JACKDANIELS.COM

THE ONLY FILTER WE’RE A FAN OF IS CHARCOAL. WE’RE ALSO A FAN OF DRINKING RESPONSIBLY.

FINISHED inBEER iPA

FINISHED INBEER STOUT

SUMMERWHISKYCOCKTAIL

Meet ‘The Macallan Copa’: a perfect summer drink, taking inspiration from the classic gin and tonic so popular in southern Europe. The Copa is a great drink on arrival that really showcases the versatility of whisky cocktails. You get sweet vanilla notes from the ex-bourbon American oak, balanced with the fresh and zesty lemon. Yum. INGREDIENTS 45mL The Macallan Fine Oak 12-Year-Old 15mL Oloroso Sherry Top with tonic METHOD Add all ingredients to a Copa glass filled with ice and garnish. Explore WHISKY tip: Use a generous sized glass (as pictured) and take the time to garnish with lemon wheel. 10 exploredrinks.com

DRINKS

It is with great pleasure that I introduce to you the 2018 launch edition of Australia’s WHISKY magazine. Though it is not entirely new.

Four days travelling the hills and glens around this region was never enough, but a wonderful experience none-the-less and a teaser to ensure a hasty return. I visited the new distillery at The Macallan which was quite literally breathtaking. A sizeable investment from Edrington, the owners of The Macallan, has given the master distillers and all who work there the Grand Designs of distilleries. Environmentally sensitive yet quite enormous, the distillery sits against the backdrop of the river Spey and surrounds and can almost go unnoticed.

Jumping across the Irish sea we’ve visited the land of the triple distillation and warm Irish hospitality – and plenty more stories – visiting castles and cutting-edge visitor centres.

Explore WHISKY was, in fact, the first book in the Explore DRINKS series, released in 2012 before being republished in 2013 and updated again in 2014. It was a coffee table book that went through the distillation process, how to taste, glassware, whisky vocabulary and a general whisky 101.

Our cover shot highlights our American friends and the collaboration between Wild Turkey and actor Matthew McConaughey. One of Hollywood’s A-list, McConaughey has himself been very hands-on in the development of the new expression – Longbranch.

In 2018 Explore WHISKY returns as an annual whisky magazine for Australia, released each September –perfect for Father’s Day, Jack Daniel’s ‘official’ birthday and Christmas.

Welcome to Explore WHISKY magazine

The quality of the liquid coming from The Macallan has been uninterrupted, and the distillery came online earlier this year. Check it out on pages 102.

Wild Turkey’s master distiller, Eddie Russell, is touring Australia in September (as this magazine is released) so Explore WHISKY reached out to bring you both Russell and McConaughey’s view on the all things whisky, and it's one we like a whole lot.

WELCOME

The overall experience is richer for the people and stories that go into every bottle. Travelling the world of whisky brings more enjoyment from every drop – so I encourage you to get out there and visit the distilleries, chat with the makers and breathe in the air. The range and innovation on show in the whisky world are both impressive and exciting as a whisky lover.

Just to make sure we know what we’re talking about, our tasting panel examined 87 whiskies; all blind. Our panel was made up of professional tasters, industry experts, educators and writers. After the tasting was complete, we fielded some guesses from the panellists as to the identity of their highest rated drops, and the results were eye-opening.

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Enjoying a great whisky is as much about the people you're with and the place you have it as the liquid itself.

The choice is there; it’s just a matter of exploration. Ash

Of course, we now have our own whisky offering with some seriously good Australian drops. Tasmania has become the spiritual home of Australian whisky, but producers on the mainland are also making their mark. Jump to page 174 to start your tour around the whisky isle – or over to page 76 to catch our chat with David Vitalie of Starward Distillery in Melbourne.

The pages of Explore WHISKY are bursting with the latest releases from around the world and the stories behind them, and when working through this publication, it was those stories that captivated our imagination and made this such a fantastic project to work on. We hope you will agree, it is the people and the stories behind the drinks that contribute so much to their appeal.

This edition also features a focus on Dufftown – the ‘malt capital of the world’ and the heart of Speyside.

The only way to get to Jura is to open a bottle from our new range of subtly sweet and smoky single malt whiskies. FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR THINK SPIRITS ACCOUNT MANAGER O NE R O AD . O NE DI STI LLER Y. O NE P U RPOSE . Discover more at jurawhisky.com NEW DRINKEnjoyForRESPONSIBLY.people18+only.inmoderation.

exploredrinks.com 13 19&INSIGHTSTRENDS Insights, news and trends from the whisky world 32FEATURES Special and Rare - Ghost Distilleries, Ken Gargett 36 Special and Rare – High End Bourbon, Ken Gargett 46 Whisky & Cheese, James Buntin 56 Whisky & Chocolate, Ben Davidson 60 Whisky & Oysters, Simon McGoram 62 The Art Of Blending, Simon McGoram 66 No Oak No Whisky, Chris Middleton 72 Australian Whisky, Chris Middleton 78 Differentiate Or Die, Chris Middleton 82 Whisky Barrels, Stephanie Aitkins 86 Scotland The Brave, Charles Maclean 92 Dufftown - Seven Stills, Ashley Pini 138 A Rye Tale, Chuck Cowdrey 158 Emerging Whisky Producers, Ken Gargett 174 Tasmanian Journey, Fred Siggins 178 Tassie Insider, Jane Sawford VISIT40SCOTLANDFOCUSDISTILLERY Glenfiddich’s Great Experiment 44 Ailsa Bay Launch 100 The Balvenie 102 The Macallan 106 Chivas Regal CONTENTS

14 exploredrinks.com 112CONTENTS The Glenlivet 116 Glen Grant 117 BenRiach 118 Abelour 124 Dewar’s 126 Longmorn 128 Jura 129 Dalmore 130 Muirhead 132 Talisker 136 Scapa 142AMERICA Jack Daniel’s 146 Buffalo Trace 150 Wild Turkey 154 Woodford Reserve 156CANADA Pike Creek & Lot 40 160JAPAN Nikka 164IRELAND Slane 166 Jameson Redbreast and Midleton 170 Jameson Redbreast and Midleton 172 Tullamore DEW 85AUSTRALIA Starward 184 Lawrenny Estate 185 Belgrove 186 Devils 187 Hellyers Road 188 Corra Linn 189 Bruny Island House Of Whisky 189 Killara 190 Overeem 191 Lark 191 Nant 192 Nonesuch 193 Old Kempton 194 Launceston 195 Sullivan’s Cove 196 McHenry 196 Sawford 197 White Label 197 Spring Bay 199 Shene Estate 55MEET Ross Blainey, The Balvenie 64 Jim Beverage, Johnnie Walker 76 David Vitalie, Starward 98 David C Stewart, The Balvenie 105 Colin Scott, Chivas Regal 110 Alan Winchester, The Glenlivet 122 Stephanie MacLeod, Dewar's 134 Brian Macaulay, Scapa 152 Matthew McConaughey & Eddie Russell, Wild Turkey 165 Brian Nation, Jameson 38DRINKS Premium Mixers 50 Australia’s Top Ten Whisky Bars 200 Classic Whisky Cocktails 214 Highballs 216 Whisky Cabinet

Explore WHISKY is published by Hip Media 169 Blues Point Road, McMahons Point, NSW 2060 Ph: 02 9492 7999 wwwABN:hipmedia.com.au42126291914

PHOTOGRAPHY Ryan Stuart DRINKS Drinks Curator | Ben ben@hipmedia.com.auDavidson

Other Hip Media titles include: Explore DrinksdrinksExploreExploreDRINKSWINECOCKTAILStrademagazineWorldAustraliaDrinksWorldAsiaBarflyBYO

EDITORIAL Publishing Editor | Ashley Pini ashley@hipmedia.com.au Associate Editor | Stephanie Aikins stephanie@hipmedia.com.au DESIGN Senior Designer | Racs ryan@hipmedia.com.auSalcedo

SALES I ADVERTISING National Sales Manager I Tim Ludlow tim@hipmedia.com.au

To order your copy of explore visit: EXPLOREDRINKS.COM Hip Media was the winner of Small Publisher of the Year at the Publishers Australia Awards of 2010

The views expressed in Explore WHISKY are of the respective contributors and are not necessarily those of the magazine or Hip Media. Copyright is held by Hip Media and reproduction in whole or in part, without prior consent, is not permitted.

16 exploredrinks.com CREDITS

ADMINISTRATION

Accountant | Melinda accounts@hipmedia.com.auVirgona

FRED SIGGINS is Strategy Manager for Sullivans Cove Distillery. He sets strategic direction across all aspects of the business including sales & marketing, production, digital infrastructure, branding, cellar door and new product development. A twenty year veteran of the hospitality industry, he has worked as a bartender (including three years at Melbourne's Black Pearl), chef, brand ambassador and manager. He also writes regularly about bars, pubs and drinks culture, and works as a private consultant and whisky educator.

BEN CANAIDER writes about drinking and high culture, including wine, spirits, and beer and is also the author of six books on similar subjects. He is the drinks editor for GQ Australia and ALPHA and writes for The AGE, SMH Online, Restaurant & Catering Magazine, VirginBlue’s Voyeur Magazine and The Mumbai Trumpet.

CHARLES MACLEAN is described by the Times of London as the world’s foremost authority on everything whisky. He is a writer whose particular subject is Scotch whisky, about which he has published ten books to date, including the standard work on whisky brands, Scotch Whisky and the leading book on its subject, Malt Whisky, both of which were shortlisted for Glenfiddich Awards.

CHARLES K. COWDERY is an internationally renowned whiskey writer, specialising in American whiskey. He is a Kentucky Colonel (Patton, 206) and a member of the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame (2009). He is the author of BOURBON, STRAIGHT: The Uncut and Unfiltered Story of American Whiskey (2004) and the producer/director of the documentary "Made and Bottled in Kentucky" (1992). He is a regular contributor to The Whisky Advocate Magazine and WHISKY Magazine. He is editor and publisher of The Bourbon Country Reader, the only publication dedicated exclusively to American whiskey. He lives in Chicago, Illinois.

CONTRIBUTORS

SIMON MCGORAM is the National Whisky Ambassador for Diageo, based in Sydney.

BEN DAVIDSON is one of Australia’s leading drinks and cocktail experts. Former Cocktail World Cup Champion (2004), Australian Bartender of the Year (2005) and Brand Ambassador of the Year (2013). With over 20 year’s experience behind bars, he is one of the most knowledgeable spirits professionals & culinary cocktail craftsman. In 2015 Ben launched his drinks consultancy business, Bespoke Drinks, working closely with spirit brands and cocktail bars as a strategic and creative advisor and consultant.

Convinced he is a grave disappointment to his family; his mother once chastised him for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now he mostly writes on wine and spirits plus a little on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, you’ll find Ken fly-fishing for trout in NZ and bonefish on the flats of Cuba; travelling; following a variety of too-often dismal sporting teams – Queensland Reds rugby, Washington Redskins, Arsenal and our once glorious cricket team.

Since 2016, Ben has been the Drinks Curator and Spirits Writer for HIP Media publications.

KEN GARGETT was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. A non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. Law at Queensland Uni. On a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, someone opened a good bottle of port and so commenced a serious obsession.

JANE SAWFORD, formerly Jane Overeem, has been heavily involved in the Tasmanian whisky industry for over 10 years. Her whisky career began with her father Casey Overeem, who taught her to distil at Overeem Distillery in 2007. In 2011 launching Overeem Single Malt Whisky, Jane very quickly built a large customer base and placed Overeem whisky in bars, restaurants and bottle shops around the country and overseas. In 2013 the Overeem family distillery was sold, and Jane became the sales and marketing manager at the newly formed company, Lark Distillery. In 2016, Jane and her husband Mark Sawford opened their own distillery, Sawford Distillery, where they are now in full production.

JAMES BUNTIN has over 30 years experience in the hospitality and global spirits industries. He has recently returned to Australia from London where he spent the past two and a half years working with William Grants & Sons as The Balvenie Ambassador for the UK. Before joining The Balvenie, James was the Ambassador for the ‘International Whiskey Experience' an educational tasting program showcasing the unique differences between Scottish, Irish and American whiskies. James has also been the Ambassador for Chivas Regal, The Glenlivet, Royal Salute and Glenfiddich whiskies. Over his long career, he has presented thousands of tasting sessions and events and hosted several discussion panels educating and entertaining audiences around the world.

A former editor of Australian Bartender magazine and contributor for Fairfax’s nationally syndicated Executive Style, Simon’s knowledge of beverage alcohol has been described as encyclopedic. Before opening Neighbourhood Bar & Restaurant in Bondi (of which Simon is a co-owner), he was the New South Wales Brand Ambassador for Diageo’s RESERVE brands. After four years of working on his own businesses and working as a consultant for Diageo whiskies, Simon is now able to lend his passion and knowledge for the category as the Diageo National Whisky Ambassador working with Johnnie Walker, The Singleton, Talisker, Lagavulin and Diageo’s greater malt portfolio.

exploredrinks.com 17 CHRIS MIDDLETON is a whisky writer and works with the whisky and spirits industries. One of the founders and a director of STARWARD, he was previously global brand director Jack Daniel’s, with over thirty years in international management roles. Chris is currently the director of the Whisky Academy and a regular contributor to drinks trade and other publications. He works, drinks and thinks whisky.

Simon, an avid whisky enthusiast, has worked in the beverage industry for the past 17 years as a bartender, bar owner/operator, consultant, drinks magazine contributor and brand ambassador.

CRAFTED CAREFULLY. DRINK RESPONSIBLY. Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. 40% Alc. by Vol. The Woodford Reserve Distillery, Versailles, KY ©2017 SMALL BATCH BOURBON AWARD-WINNING FLAVOUR

2018 has been a record-breaking year for whisky - from auction prices to visitor numbers, whisky has never been so popular.

AWY has recently been in the news, after purchasing the assets of failed Tasmanian distillery Nant, as well as a taking over Lark Distillery, Australia’s first whisky distillery, set up in Tasmania in 1992.

BAROSSA WINERY SEPPELTSFIELD IS GETTING INTO THE WHISKY BUSINESS

Dave Broom is one of the world’s leading writers on spirits. His book, ‘Rum’, is essential for any fan and he has a series of manuals on various spirits, however his forte is whisky.

His latest, ‘The Way of Whisky’, is, as he sub-titles it, a journey through the world of Japanese whisky. It is a personal account of his travels throughout the islands of this exciting whisky nation, touching on the history, the people, the distilleries and so much more, while also offering tasting notes.

The lines between wine and whisky have been blurred even further. The Barossa winery, Seppeltsfield, founded 167 years ago and famed internationally for its amazing 100-Year-Old Para Tawny, has taken an interest in the spirits business Australian Whisky Holdings, listed on the Australian stock exchange (AWY). It has done this by way of loan conversion into equity. Seppeltsfield was part of the wine empire now known as Treasury Wine Estates, but was sold in 2007. The new owners have worked tirelessly on upgrading what is a must-visit winery in the Barossa region and expanding its range. Managing Director (and largest shareholder), Warren Randall, has also entered into a JV with the Minquan Jiuding Wine Company to open a $75 million Chinese chateau. It is believed that this will pave the way for expansion into the region for AWY. There was already a link between Seppeltsfield and the whisky industry, as they have long been supplying aged fortified barrels for maturing spirit.

ON-TREND

$50 to $60, depending on your source, this is the seminal tome on the subject of Japanese whisky. Whether you are a long-term aficionado or taking your first sips, it is a must. NOTE ABOUT DAVE BROOM’S FABULOUS BOOK ON JAPANESE WHISKY

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Personal it might be, but most importantly, this is an informative, educational book, which makes for thoroughly enjoyable reading. He is accompanied on his odyssey by photographer Kohei Take, and together they have created a beautifully presented Betweenbook.

The remaining 16 bottles, you ask? Two were sold at auction in 2001 and 2002 under blank labels, so that the new owners could design their own. They were records at the time – £15,000 and £18,000 respectively. It seems that the rest, or most of them, were released as part of the Vintage Macallan program in 2003, priced at £20,000 a bottle.

Rare whisky is one of the hottest commodities on the planet at the moment. At the time of writing, a bottle of 1966 Bowmore sold overnight for almost $70,000. Chicken feed compared to some recent records, notably a pair of 1926 Macallan whiskies. They sold earlier this year at Dubai Airport for US$1.2m, bringing a whole new meaning to picking up a bottle of duty free on holidays! This famous whisky was bottled in 1986, after 60 years in sherry casks. Only 40 bottles were produced. 24 of the bottles received special labels, a dozen each designed by Sir Peter Blake and Valerio Adami. Even if the name, Peter Blake, does not ring a bell, there’s a good chance you’ve seen some of his work. He designed the cover of the Beatles’ ‘Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band’. There is some debate about whether these bottles were ever sold, or were simply given to the distillery’s favoured customers. The last time one appeared at auction was in 2007, when it went for US$75,000. At US$600,000 each, they did not quite pip the world record for malt whisky – HK$4.9m (US$628,000) for another Macallan, their ‘M Impériale’. In fairness, the Impériale contains six litres, more than 8½ standard bottles. Hold the proverbial phone – these records lasted barely the time it might take to enjoy a top bottle of whisky. In May this year, Bonham’s in Hong Kong sold a similar pair, the 1926 Macallans with the Blake and Adami labels, for more than US$2m. First up, the Blake went for HK$7.96 million (US$1.01 million). Moments later, it was relegated to second place with the Adami exceeding that, tipping the scales at HK$8.63 million. Some history. Apparently, back in the 1980s, the Macallan distillery did not enjoy the near-legendary status it holds today, offering primarily malts for blending. Change was in the air, as a new team, in awe of the incredible old stocks held at the distillery, started offering these whiskies in bottle. It was during this period they discovered the old sherry cask, Cask No. 263 from 1926, quietly maturing away in a corner of the distillery and gave it a go. It yielded 40 bottles. Blake was encouraged to design the label for the first dozen bottles. In 1993, Macallan’s Italian distributor wanted to repeat the exercise, and Valerio Adami was commissioned to design labels for a further 12 bottles.

And what has been their fate? Some have apparently been drunk, but who knows exactly how much. Rumour has it that a dozen were destroyed by the earthquake that hit Japan in 2011. We may never know. Scotland does not have all the glory.

A recent auction at Bonham’s saw the hammer fall for a 1960 Karuizawa, 52-Year-Old ‘The Dragon’ at a hefty HK$2.45m (US$312,130), the highest price ever achieved for a Japanese whisky. It was bottled in January 2013, much younger than the Macallan, and production is slightly higher at 41 bottles. Needless to say, this is not over yet. By the time you read this, it is almost certain that all these records will be smashed, as Sotheby’s will soon be offering yet another of the 1926 Macallans with the Sir Peter Blake label – bottle 9 of 12.

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THE MACALLAN BREAKS ITS OWN WORLD RECORD WITH A 1926 BOTTLE FETCHING THE HIGHEST PRICE PAID FOR A SINGLE-MALT SCOTCH.

A lovely tribute to the man who oversaw the repeal of an early attempt at prohibition in the Colony.

OF 1937 THE MACALLAN SINGLE MALT HAS BEEN SOLD FOR £3,300.

THE BRISBANE

‘The Brisbane’ is the fourth in the intriguing series of Fusion Whiskies, a concept established originally in Edinburgh to celebrate the links between Scotland and other nations, and to commemorate the role played by famous Scots in the history of those countries.

The first, the ‘Glover’, was a tribute to Thomas Glover, who played a key role in the early days of trade with Japan. The ‘Kincardine’ acknowledges the ‘Walking Viceroy’ Victor Bruce, who worked tirelessly in India. ‘The Winter Queen’, the third in the series, recognises the legacy of the Scottish princess, Elizabeth Stuart, who spent most of her life in The Hague, The Netherlands. In each case, whisky from Scotland was blended with whisky from the nation to which the tribute is offered. Production varies considerably. A unique concept and a brilliant one.

‘The Brisbane’ is a blend of two sherry hogsheads distilled at Glen Garioch in the Highlands, a portion from another sherry butt distilled at Glen Grant and three ex-apera casks (apera is our name for what was once known as sherry) distilled at the Starward Distillery in Melbourne. Only 932 bottles were produced, as a five-year-old malt at 57.5%.

72-YEAR-OLD SINGLE MALT IS THE MACALLAN’S OLDEST WHISKY EVER RELEASED, PRICED AT MINIATURE$65,000BOTTLE

He has a crater on the moon named after him, along with one of Australia’s great cities. He was a close friend of the Duke of Wellington and, after joining the military at the age of 16, served in the West Indies, Ireland, America, India and throughout Europe. Fascinated by the stars, he built one of Scotland’s earliest observatories, and personally funded the Parramatta Observatory in NSW. In 1821, he took over from Lachlan Macquarie as Governor of the Colony of New South Wales, working hard to improve the young settlement. And now, the Scottish soldier, Sir Thomas Makdougall Brisbane, has a whisky as well.

TRENDS exploredrinks.com 21 Macallan has a peerless reputation for offering superb aged whiskies as prestige releases. To celebrate their new US$225 million distillery and visitor centre, which adds 48 stills identical to the 36 already in operation, the brand is releasing the oldest whisky it has ever bottled – a 72-YearOld malt, in an exquisite decanter from Lalique, dubbed the ‘Genesis Decanter’. The package comes in an elegant presentation case. This new distillery, with its increased production ability, will ensure that future generations will see more of these gems, but they will have to bide their Onlytime. 600 of these decanters have been made for worldwide distribution. They will be released in September 2018, at a price of US$65,000 each. Hand-blown, the idea is to reflect the gentle, rolling hills found in the Speyside region where the new distillery is located. The whisky it contains, an extremely rare malt which was distilled back at the time of World War II, has received rave reviews (as one would hope for such a price tag).

To most of us, miniatures are not really considered to offer much bang for your buck. Hotel mini-bar rip-offs, most of them. No doubt, a Glasgow couple had a similar inclination last year when they went to toss a couple of old miniatures into the bin. At the last moment, they had second thoughts and decided it might be wise to check. Their ‘small’, in every way, collection sold at auction for £2,100 with a tiny ‘bottle’ of ‘20 Under Proof’ Laphroaig going for £830. That figure was expected to be left in the dust at a recent auction where a miniature of Macallan 1937 Fine & Rare Aged 32 Years (distilled in 1937, bottled in 1969, then rebottled in 2002) was coming up for sale. Estimates thought it could go as high as £1,000. Estimates were wrong. It went for £3,300. It was the first occasion this whisky had come up for auction. Macallan’s Fine & Rare selection is well known as offering some rarely seen whiskies, the 1926 a famous example (the series ran up to releases from 1991). It was purchased by an Italian collector who presumably will not be tossing it in his rubbish.

Amongst the many rare whiskies at the Hotel Waldhaus Am See was a bottle of 1878 Macallan, supposedly the last remaining bottle of this malt left on the planet. Who wouldn’t want to try it? The hotel, which has around 2,500 whiskies in its collection, had purchased the bottle several decades earlier and originally told Mr Wei that it was not for sale. Mr Wei was keen, as the bottle was the same age as his grandmother’s grandmother (or would presumably be, if she was still with us). So, the manager rang his father – this really is a family story – who was manager of the hotel at the time of the purchase of the Macallan. He said it was time to open it, although they were hardly giving it away at ten grand a dram. Unfortunately, it just didn’t seem right. Naturally, Mr Wei blogged. The whisky detectives were soon on the job. The manager was keen to know the truth as well. Oxford University performed carbon dating and, with the assistance of experts, Rare Whisky 101, was deemed to be around a century younger than presumed and unlikely to be a single malt (just a blended Scotch with 60% grain). It was suggested to be worth around $300,000 less than its estimated value of $300,000. The manager, to his credit, was on the next plane to China to apologise and provide a full refund.

A BARREL FULL A few words on the use of barrels in making whisky. Fat chance. A few words? You could write books on this topic. It is absolutely crucial to the whisky in your glass and will help define your preferences almost as much as any other factor in the production of your favourite drop. Oak barrels rule. Oak has proven itself over the centuries and nothing else has come close. Oak barrels act not only as a container for the whisky in which it may mature, often for many years (at the very least, three years to legally become whisky), but they also impart character/flavour and impact the colour. Traditionally, the barrels used are those which were once employed as home to sherry – fino, amontillado or oloroso, depending on what the blender is seeking – or Oakbourbon.isn’t perfect – contents of the barrels evaporates over time, the lost quantity earning the moniker, ‘the angels’ share’.

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Zhang Wei has made his fortune from writing martial arts fantasy stories, but he still goes on holiday with his grandmother, on this occasion, to St Moritz in Switzerland.

There are so many more matters to consider in this. Various types of oak, the different treatments they receive, different forests, age, growth rate of the oak, size of the barrels, charring, method of drying the oak before it is made into barrels, previous contents… do you need more? Never underestimate the importance of oak and the contribution it makes to your whisky.

$10,000 WHISKY DRAM THAT TURNED OUT TO BE WORTHLESS

Some might suggest that anyone who pays $10,000 for a sip of whisky almost deserves this, especially if he is only in his 30s, but that would be a touch harsh.

The process of preparing the oak plays a role – seasoning and heating the staves. This helps draw out some of the flavours that the barrels will impart to the whisky. These flavours vary considerably – toast, butterscotch, vanilla, caramel, creaminess, even coconut, spices, smoky notes, and so much more. The oak is also considered to draw out some of the undesirable elements in the young spirit.

The Malt Master and Distillery Manager got together and selected, from the remains, some of the best old casks across a range of ages, from 13 to 30 years. Some had previously held oloroso sherry and others were made from American oak, first and second fill bourbon barrels. The final blend came in with a strength of 47.6 per cent.

Naturally, it is a one-off limited edition (at least, I’m sure the team hope it will never need be repeated) with 12,000 bottles released. Reviews of this whisky have been extremely positive, confirming that this was, despite the great name, far more than a marketing gimmick.

From the ashes… or in this case, from many feet of snow.

The temperature had dropped to minus 19ºC as two winters worth of snow fell in a short time. It was estimated that the roofs in part of the distillery were carrying the weight of a herd of elephants. There were some quarter of a million casks in those warehouses and the team managed to save all but a couple (chill filtering, anyone?). The team at Glenfiddich were, of course, devastated at the destruction but they got to work and created a legend.

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Meanwhile, bottles, originally released at under $100 or thereabouts, now go for around A$1,200 each.

The winter of 2010 was a fierce one and the Glenfiddich distillery felt the full force of nature. Four of their warehouses collapsed under the weight of the build-up of snow on the roofs.

It comes in a tin box which has a brilliant image on it of a phoenix arising through the devastated warehouse roof. No wonder that even empty tins are collectors’ items – the last one on eBay was on offer for just under US$300.

GLENFIDDICH SNOW PHOENIX

WORDS KEN GARGETT PHOTOS BOILERMAKER HOUSE EXPLORE

those old black and white film noir detective thrillers where Humphrey Bogart or Robert Mitchum would, inevitably, end up in a bar somewhere - usually with hat and trench coat still on - drowning their sorrows. If it wasn’t a straight shot of whiskey (rye or bourbon), then it was a boilermaker. I had no idea what a boilermaker was, but if these blokes were drinking them, then they must be cool. At the time, I thought the epitome of being an adult was to sit in a dimly lit bar by yourself, knocking back boilermakers. To be fair, I was only seven or eight. Many years later, when I could legally sit in one of these bars had I wished to, I discovered that a boilermaker was an American beer/whiskey cocktailbasically a mix of the two. It seemed a rather odd mix, neither one thing or the other and possibly a waste of both. WHISKEY/BEER

24 Asexploredrinks.comakid,Iloved

The first recorded appearance of the boilermaker in Australia was shortly after the Second World War, in Kings Cross, where the newspapers of the day noted its consumption at a party given by a local ‘theatre artist’, Mrs Littlejohn. It must have made quite the impression as the legend insists that Mrs Littlejohn woke up the next day, under a rug.

Now that might not seem so extreme, but the rug was on the deck of an American trawler headed for New Zealand.

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So is all this merely a way to get alcohol into the system as quickly as possible or is there more to it? In fairness to the combination, there are some similarities between beer and whisky –they are, in general, both the result of grains, yeasts and water. Indeed, there is an argument that you could call whisky ‘distilled beer’.

Brewers have taken advantage of the potential pairing by using casks from various distilleries in which to age their beers and ales. Harviestoun Ola Dubh 18 spends time in casks from Orkney’s Highland Park Distillery. Tennent’s have used Speyside Single Malt Whisky infused oak for flavour. The BrewDog Paradox Jura is aged in casks previously used for Isle of Jura whisky.

There are numerous examples. Even wine has got into the act, with the Jacob’s Creek ‘Double Barrel’ spending time in standard wine barrels, followed by a stint in old whisky barrels.

The advertising uses narration from Chris Hemsworth – perhaps they drink it on Asgard.

Naturally, as alcohol is involved, there are various permutations and combinations, and aficionados will swear blind that theirs is the only way a boilermaker should be consumed. Some mix the two; some prefer to follow their beer with a shot of whisky. Others use the beer as a chaser, though if that is your preferred method, anything less than knocking off the entire whisky in a single go is considered poor form. A further version on mixing the two is the ‘depth charge’, where the entire shot glass is dropped into the beer. Others sip from a beer, slowly replacing the consumed portion with their Boilermakerswhisky. originated in Butte, Montana in the 1890s, where they were first known as a Sean O’Farrell (other names included ‘citywide specials’ and ‘two-steps’). They were served to miners on completion of their shifts. England had its own version but that was usually a mix of a couple of different types of beers/ales. The Scots have a ‘half and half’, which involves enjoying the beer next to a whisky, moving back and forth between the two. The Irish have the delightfully named Irish Car Bomb, in which Irish Cream and whiskey are mixed in a shot glass, which is dropped into a stout. And you can bet that someone somewhere is immediately saying, “no, there is a better way,” for everything here. Such is the way with cocktails the world over.

There are numerous other spirit/beer pairings around the globe – vodka, gin, Korean soju, brandy and others all feature.

A pale ale with a corn-dominated Kentucky bourbon (worth noting that a number of those who specialise in matching beer and whiskey suggest avoiding IPAs as they rarely work). The fruity style of Speyside whiskies might appeal to a more fruity beer or perhaps a strongly malt-flavoured one. Blended whiskies? So many varying styles mean endless options.

Next time you encounter a barman (or mixologist, if they think they are really good), why not put them to the test? Pick a whisky or a beer and see what they can come up with (and if you are not sure about the results, ask yourself what would Bogie think).

The traditional boilermaker now finds itself far from the realms of the blue-collar bar, and some of our trendiest establishments pride themselves on their versions of boilermakers. Boilermaker House in Melbourne for example, is the Mecca – devoted to this very pairing.

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Then, take a risk and try for contrasting matches. This is more difficult but can be rewarding – think Roquefort and Yquem. Some swear by a fresh, light beer with a heavy, smoky Islay whisky. If you wish, you can experiment for the rest of your life. If you think that you might ever go too far, one can now find pickle

Of course, once you find some good combinations then the next task is to match them with food. Or if you are George Thorogood - a bourbon.

Needless to say, if a human is combining two items to eat, drink or even to just consider, someone else will be experimenting to see if they can raise that match to a higher level. No longer is beer and whisky an end-ofday wind-down drink with mates. Nowadays, the boilermaker is a form of art. Now, it is a culinary and gustatory experience and there are, of course, as any quick glimpse at the internet will reveal, more possible combinations, Horatio… Those miners in Butte would be so proud. Or confused. Some possibilities? A blended Canadian rye with either a rich stout or a ginger-flavoured beer. An Irish whiskey with a touch of nuttiness, like Jameson, with a nutty brown ale, but if you prefer an easier style of Irish whiskey, a lighter wheat beer might be the go. Your favourite Islay malt with a smoky German rauchbier –rauchbier uses grains smoked over beechwood so that should make it an ideal match for those alluring peaty malt whiskies from Islay (yes, I fully understand those who might feel that simply enjoying your favourite Islay unadorned is not the worst thing that will ever happen).

Personally, think along the same lines as you would when matching food and wine.

Consider the weight of each, as it always helps to ensure that they are not out of alignment – light with light, heavy with heavy.

brine beers which allow one to replicate the Pickleback – a shot of whisky immediately followed by a sip of pickle brine.

Comparable flavours is the easiest and most common way to go and likely to be the most successful. Smoky with smoky, chocolate with chocolate (so a rich stout with a caramelflavoured bourbon might be worth a shot) and fruity with fruity. And so it goes.

Explore Whisky at

Whisky Live is the whisky tasting event of the year. Held in 6 cities across Australia it offers a huge assortment of fine whiskies and spirits, all open for sampling. Whisky Live gives you the opportunity to try before you buy. Whether you’re a whisky novice or can identify a brand in a blind tasting, there’ll be something for everyone. Come and explore whisky at Whisky Live! Tickets online now : whiskylive.com.au

Sydney Melbourne Perth Adelaide Canberra Brisbane

Australia’s Premiere Whisky Tasting Event

Explore some of the reviews on the internet for regular production stars – I read that some authorities say you won’t find better than the Lagavulin 16-Year-Old. Hard to argue. Others opt for the Glenmorangie Signet, another superstar and whisky I love. Others would legitimately insist that it must be the standard Ardbeg 10-Year-Old (big smile here, even thinking about it). Am I exposing my Islay adoration? And this without even stepping foot beyond the borders of Scotland. I have no doubt that everyone reading this has already said to themselves, but what Flagshipabout… whiskies? If ever there was a case of beauty in the eye of the beholder.

The best of the best? Welcome to the most subjective and debate-provoking topic in the world of whisky. One man’s ‘prestige’ bottle is another’s mouthwash. In fact, there isn’t even a recognised category for these whiskies. It is whatever you decide it is. Is it simply the top regular production whisky made by a producer? Their oldest? Most expensive? Rarest? Could it be a one-off limited edition? Or just make up your own rules, but remember, preferences vary enormously. If, for example, you are a Highlands devotee, you’ll likely opt for one of their standards ahead of what might be seen by others as something special from another region.

Eleven grand might not compare with the massive amounts some of the very old and extremely rare whiskies are attracting, but for a much younger maker and whisky, it is extremely impressive and shows just how seriously Aussie whisky is now seen by aficionados. The auction was held by Christie’s in London, and the bottle in question was the Sullivan’s Cove American Oak Single Cask #HH0351. No doubt, much of the attention came as this whisky won the World’s Best Single Cask Single Malt at the 2018 World Whiskies Awards. The whisky was distilled in June 2000, spent its life in a 200-litre American oak ex-bourbon barrel, and was bottled in January 2017. Only 136 bottles were ever made – this one was number 88. It came in a handmade Tasmanian Blackwood display box. Until the auction, it had never left the distillery. As the world wakes up to the quality of our whiskies, don’t expect this record to last for long.

The Australian whisky industry has come of age. The small Tasmanian producer, Sullivan’s Cove, has achieved the highest price ever seen under the auctioneer’s hammer for a bottle of local whisky – a whopping $11,000 (more correctly, £6,600). Proceeds went to a children’s charity.

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AUSTRALIAN WHISKY SELLS FOR HIGHEST EVER PRICE AT AUCTION – A BOTTLE OF SULLIVAN’S COVE WENT FOR $11,000.

PRESTIGE WHISKIES – A DEBATE

Estimates suggest that the shortage could last 10 years.

OR MORE LIKELY (DEFINITELY) A JAPANESE WHISKY SHORTAGE?

John Teeling has issued the warning and if anyone would know, this is the man. Back in the mid-1850s, Irish whiskey accounted for approximately 60 per cent of the world market. There were literally hundreds of distilleries. Then came the collapse, down to a monopoly and less than 2 per cent of sales by the 1970s.

If Irish whiskey is your preferred tipple, you might be in for some tough times. The impending shortage of Japanese whisky is well-documented, but a lack of the finest from Ireland has received less coverage.

A friend of mine from a past life, when I worked as a lawyer, recently turned up for a visit. I first met him at a firm in London many years ago, and we have kept in touch. He has recently been working in Japan. He very kindly arrived with a bottle of whisky as a gift – a malt from the Highlands. Most welcome, of course, but it seemed odd to bring a Scottish whisky from Japan. Handing it to me, he apologised. There simply was not a decent bottle of Japanese whisky at the airport, he explained. Not one. It speaks of the massive problem facing the Japanese whisky industry. They are simply exhausting stocks of aged material. It hit home to a wider audience earlier this year when Suntory stunned its fans by announcing that they were withdrawing the single malt, Hakushu 12-Year-Olds, and blended whisky, Hibiki 17-Year-Old, from their portfolio. They just can’t make it anymore and they had previously done the same with their Kakubin Black Label 43 Degrees, in 2016. Termination of the 17-Year-Old will devastate Bill Murray and his fans, as this was the whisky he made famous in the 2003 film ‘Lost in Translation’.

No wonder prospective and wannabe distillers are turning to gin. Distillery to dollars in months, not decades.

WORDS KEN GARGETT

We are already seeing many retailers limiting sales to a bottle or two of some of the more popular Japanese labels. It is such a shame for the industry, as their products have never been more in demand or more highly regarded. Production is being ramped up, but, as with Ireland, time is needed for the making and maturation of their whiskies.

They simply cannot make and mature stocks as quickly as is needed. Some distilleries are attempting to get around the shortages by moving from whiskies with age statements.

THE WHISKY AND DREAMS – AUSTRALIAN WHISKY FESTIVAL.

Whisky lovers residing in Melbourne are fortunate. In March this year, they had the opportunity to greatly expand their horizons with the ‘Whisky and Dreams’ Festival. It was the third incarnation – the event was previously known as ‘Independent’s Day’. Sixty-five bucks will get you a decent bottle of whisky, or it allowed you entry to the event held at Starward’s Port Melbourne distillery, and the chance to look at around 150 different products. Guests also had the prospect of talking to the people behind the whiskies, and to attend various masterclasses with international experts. It was a two day event spread across four sessions. The whiskies on offer included local products, as well as those from around the globe. Among the international guests were Dave Broom (yes, he of the brilliant new book on Japanese whisky, as well as numerous others) and Charles MacLean. Alex Bruce, the man behind ‘The Brisbane’, the first official Scotch-Australian whisky blend out of Scotland, was also in attendance. Around 500 whisky lovers attended each session. Keep an eye out for future festivals, as they are a terrific way to immerse yourself in great whisky, taste many you might not have seen before and to learn more about this great spirit.

The problem for the Irish industry is that there is simply a lack of aged malt, and only time can cure that. The explosion in popularity of Irish whiskey – it has been growing at more than 10 per cent per annum in 75 countries for some time –meant that reserves have nearly been So,exhausted.Irishaficionados might find themselves disappointed in the coming years. Even worse, they will not be able to turn to Japan to alleviate their woes, as that nation has similar problems.

COULD IRISH WHISKEY SHORTAGE BE COMING?

AN

Teeling undertook a doctorate at Harvard in the early ‘70s and studied this collapse. His conclusion? Time for a new distillery, though it took some time to achieve (in the meantime, he lectured at Dublin University and also founded a number of mining exploration companies). He is often credited as the man who saved the Irish whiskey industry and is a whisky hall-of-famer. Now, he sees dangers ahead. In 1986, he re-opened Locke’s Distillery in Kilbeggan, naming it ‘Cooley’, and installing both column stills and pot stills, in order to provide a wide range of whiskies. It took until the new century for sales to hit the mark, but Irish whiskey was back. Beam Suntory bought the distillery in early 2012, but Teeling’s sons have kept the flag flying, opening Dublin’s only operating distillery, the Teeling Whiskey Distillery.

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GIFTS

Whisky is the gift that can last a lifetime, starting a journey that can bring people together and provide time to contemplate life’s vagaries. Either way, the right whisky can be the start of something beautiful.

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EXPERIMENT WINE LOVERS EXPERIMENT BEER LOVERS THE WORLD’S MOST AWARDED WHISKY 12 YEAR OLD exploredrinks.com 31 SOMETHING SPECIAL LOOK FOR THE 15, 18 AND 21 YEAR OLD CAN’TANWRONGGOEXPLOREIPACASKMATUREDWHISKY FOR THEEXPLOREOCCASIONSPECIALREALLYTHATAGES

32 exploredrinks.com So what is a ghost distillery? Basically, a once working distillery, sometimes much loved and highly regarded, which, for whatever reasons, has closed its doors. Now, in most industries, that would be it. Game over. The best it could hope for would be a mention in some nostalgic trivia competition. If a shoe factory shuts, it is unlikely that shoe aficionados (are there such people?) will seek footwear from the closed establishment decades later. Not so with whisky. Remember that it takes at least three years before the glorious nectar in barrel can even be called whisky, and any decent distillery worth the name will have many barrels of much older material. So when business stops, there is still potentially significant quantities of very fine whisky quietly maturing away in barrels. It can be sold for blending, but often it continues to mature and is eventually bottled as special releases. Or possibly included in something very limited and exciting – the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare is the perfect example. And of course, there will also have been bottles from the closed distillery which are already on the market. They will immediately become collectors’ items and highly prized. Prices escalate enormously. Search the internet for prices of old bottles from the Brora and Ellen Port distilleries, two ghost distilleries which both closed in 1983 and see if you can find anything under several thousand dollars a bottle – if you can find them at all. It hardly makes sense. If all this whisky is in such demand and so highly valued, why close? Many reasons, of course.

WORDS

SCOTLAND’S GHOST DISTILLERIES

Things were going so well that a second distillery was built nearby (and given its name, the Clynelish Distillery, which was Ghost distilleries; sounds more like something involving Captain Jack Sparrow and barrels of rum, rather than the more genteel and dignified world of fine whisky from Scotland. They are very real and becoming more and more important for a range of reasons. The ever-increasing interest in fine whisky has even seen plans for the re-opening of some of the more famous ghost distilleries, such as Port Ellen and Brora. Be assured Scotland has as many ghosts as any horror movie, but these are ghouls you hope to encounter. KEN GARGETT

During a period such as this, where there is extensive and intense interest in great whisky, it is hard to imagine that there are times when supply far exceeds demand and many distilleries are simply not economical, let alone profitable. Brora is the perfect example. Its success caused its downfall, as detailed elsewhere.

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IN THE 1800’S, IT IS ESTIMATED THAT THERE WERE AROUND 200 DISTILLERIES IN SCOTLAND. BY THE END OF WORLD WAR II, AT LEAST 70 OF THESE HAD CLOSED.

exploredrinks.com the name of the original distillery, subsequently changed to Brora). Unfortunately, the timing could hardly have been worse. Almost immediately after the new distillery commenced operations, the market took a downturn, and the owners were forced to close one. The older distillery was the obvious choice. However, there were a number of barrels of the proverbial liquid gold sitting in the halls, continuing to mature. They have not gone to waste. The Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare, a new offering, takes full advantage of the plunder from ghost distilleries. At A$480 a bottle, this new whisky needs to be far more than an overpriced marketing gimmick.

And it is. It is the first release in what will be a series of very special whiskies. Each one will be based on a whisky from a longclosed distillery – a ghost distillery – and will include various other components, which may be from distilleries still operating or not. Many of these ‘contributions’ are often part of Blue. For the first release, five currently operating distilleries made contributions, as did three Ghosts. The ‘heart’ of this whisky is from Brora (interestingly, one of the operating distilleries which contributed is the aforementioned Clynelish). The other ‘ghosts’ in this blend are from the Cambus and Pittyvaich distilleries. In the 1800’s, it is estimated that there were around 200 distilleries in Scotland. By the end of World War II, at least 70 of these had closed. After the War, whisky enjoyed boom times, and new distilleries opened, but things changed in the 1980s and more closed. We’ve mentioned a number of the Ghosts. A few others that are highly regarded and with cult followings are Braeval, Glenglassaugh, St. Magdalene (Linlithgow), Rosebank, Kinclaith, Glenugie and ThereGlenlochy.maybeghosts in Scotland, but they are friendly ghosts, and one only wishes that we encountered them more often.

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The whiskies are seen as having a strong peatiness and considerable complexity.

Indications are that once the doors open again, the intention will be to replicate the earlier style – something all lovers of that wonderful Islay style will appreciate.

The whisky produced during the period from its reopening to ultimate closure is considered to be some of the greatest Islay whisky ever made. Diageo has taken advantage of this with various bottlings, annually since 2001. Other producers, including Signatory and Douglas Laing, have released independent bottlings though, needless to say, stocks are diminishing, pushing prices even higher.

Recent news will be wonderfully encouraging for lovers of Islay whiskies. The famous Port Ellen Distillery, owned by Diageo, which shut in 1983, will reopen in 2020. This distillery is from the dress circle of Islay, with neighbours like Ardbeg, Bowmore, Lagavulin and Laphroaig –elite names by any standards. Diageo, which also owns not only Lagavulin but also Caol Ila, is in the process of a £35,000 refurbishment. As is so often the case, when a distillery – especially one of quality – closes, existing bottlings and those remaining stocks of whisky produced on site, gain cult status and prices to match.

The maltings facility at Port Ellen, built in 1972, has been used by other distilleries in the Diageo portfolio and subsequently others from the region. The malting drums are the largest in the UK.

The distillery, on the south coast of Islay, originally built by A. K. MacKay & Co, was established in 1825, gaining fame as the first distillery which incorporated the ‘spirit safe design’ by Septimus Fox into the process of distillation. A spirit safe literally has a padlock (or did – perhaps modern technology will provide other methods of security). It allows distillers to observe the spirit as it is produced and hence improve the accuracy of the cuts, but does not allow them access. It was invented by Fox in the early 1820’s and made mandatory from 1823, no doubt because it helped ensure all taxes were paid on the spirits produced, not least because the Customs & Excise officer actually held the key until 1983 (now, usually held by the distiller).

PORT DISTILLERYELLEN

That is certainly the case with Brora, a Highlands distillery which closed its doors in 1983, after so many years of producing fine malts. It originally begun production back in 1819, built by the Marquess of Stafford, possibly in order to send local bootleggers broke. The Marquess was not a popular man in the district, having evicted 15,000 crofters from his property in order to run sheep at the time of the Highland Clearances – some were resettled as far away as Canada and Australia.

BRORA Cigar aficionados howl at the moon whenever one of their preferred cigars is discontinued. So too, lovers of great malt whiskies, when a favoured distillery closes its doors. In both cases, the remaining cigars and whiskies very quickly increase in value, and often legend, becoming cult favourites.

The distillery had been called ‘Clynelish’, until 1968, when the Clynelish Distillery, a near neighbour, was opened. One theory suggests that the adoption of the name was so as the new distillery, same owners, could trade on the good name and reputation that Brora had established. However, like so

The lease for the distillery was obtained by the 21-year-old John Ramsay in 1836. By 1848, he was trading with North America. Ramsey was a local powerhouse. He was involved with the development of continuous stills, assisting Robert Stein and Aeneas Coffey. He also established a steamboat service to the Islay, imported wines, was a local MP and the chairman of the Glasgow Chamber of Commerce. DCL, which later morphed into Diageo, took over Port Ellen in 1925. They soon closed the distiller, other than for the maltings and bonded warehouses. It re-opened in 1967, after the number of stills had been doubled from two to four the previous year, but was closed again in 1983 thanks to the downturn in interest in whisky at that time. It might seem unbelievable today, but distillers felt that there was simply little market for single malt whiskies in the peated style which Islay offers.

CONVALMORE Convalmore is not simply a ghost distillery. Sadly, it is now effectively a demolished one, making the rare, very limited releases from its ever-diminishing stocks a momentous event for whisky lovers.

Convalmore 32-Year-Old was part of their ‘Special Releases’ in 2017, though only 3,972 bottles were ever available. Distilled in 1984, it was aged in refill American oak casks and bottled with a natural cask strength of 48.2% ABV. Though its price is over $2,000 a bottle, that won’t stop those keen to sample part of history.

Along the way, it suffered badly from a fire in 1909. It reopened a year later, with matching pot stills and a new and experimental continuous column still, working with malt.

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Built in 1894 (some suggest 1983), at the behest of a group of businessmen from Glasgow and under the design of local architect, Donald MacKay, it was one of the famous ‘seven stills of Dufftown’. Ten years later, it was sold for £6,000 and years later, ended up as part of the Diageo empire.

Plans and details of this still, which only ran for five years, have been lost in the mists of time. The column still produced what is known as a ‘silent malt’ – potentially 2,273 litres per hour. ‘Silent malt’ is simply the name given to malt whisky from column stills rather than the pot stills. After the dismantling of this still in 1916, the distillery returned to pot stills. Glentauchers at Speyside and the Lochruan distillery at Campbelltown were two others which made ‘silent

Why then was it permanently closed? It seems that the Clynelish Distillery was built to handle increased demand, as a result of the success of Brora. But with changing tastes, it was not long before two distilleries were one too many and the old one was the obvious choice for closure. Any bottles remaining are now very much collectors’ items and very valuable. So too, the occasional bottlings from the dwindling stocks held by Diageo.

much of what went on in that era, exact details are a little sketchy. The name of the original distillery was changed to TheBrora.style of whisky produced from 1968 was heavily peated, to assist shortfalls of Islay thanks to drought in that region. From 1973, the style reverted to a more lightly peated Highlands style. If evidence of its fame was needed, in 2014, Diageo (owners of the old distillery) released a 1972 malt at £14,500/bottle. Malts from this distillery had enjoyed considerable success from the very early days, so much so that production was originally sold only to private customers and not to blenders. Things were not always rosy. The distillery had closed down for periods on two earlier occasions – 1931 to 1938, thanks largely to Prohibition; and 1941 to 1945, thanks to the War. Accounts vary considerably, and there are actually numerous other suggestions of breaks in production for any number of reasons, but it seems these two periods were the most likely Afterwards,closures.demand from blenders for heavily peated malts soon ensured full recovery and, subsequently, the new distillery. Not all of the malts produced here were heavily peated, as the distillery performed a valuable role, producing whatever style of malt was needed.

The fruitiness it offered was much prized by blenders, and it often contributed to the famous Black & White whisky.

Last year, Diageo announced that this famous distillery would emerge from mothballs and begin production again in 2020. It is welcome news for all lovers of great malts.

If you ever see a bottle from this famous Speyside distillery, do not hesitate, though small quantities are more likely to be included as part of a blend.

recently, a

Convalmore28-Year-OldDiageowithqualitysuggestaspeakmaltThosewarehouse.todayisexist,shellsGlenfiddich,empire,otherItsurplus1985,darkinstalled,anotherduringafterSubsequentmalts’.expansions,aperiodinlimboWWII,sawpairofstillsaswellasagrainsplant.Bythedistillerywastorequirements.sitscontiguoustodistilleriesintheBalvenieandandtheofthebuildingsstillbutallequipmentlonggoneanditsroleissimplythatofawhohavesampledfromthisdistilleryhighlyofit,notingrichfruitiness.SomeitwassimilarintoClynelishbut‘anextrafruityheart’.releasedafromin2005and,more

BOURBONS Premium

Front row tickets, opening night, for Springsteen at the Meadowlands or a bottle of Pappy van Winkle bourbon - which is harder to get?

The Pappy, by the proverbial country mile. In fact, there is almost no bottle of wine, spirit or champagne on this planet harder to get on release. You might even have more chance of a bottle of DRC Romanée-Conti, and the prices are not that different – they have been resold for up to $20,000. It is said that Pope Francis gets a single bottle of Pappy every year. But only one. For anyone who has not experienced them, be under no illusion that spirits such as bourbon and Tennessee rye can be of superb quality, not to mention seriously expensive and in extraordinary demand. Nothing, however, comes close to the clamour that the suggestion of an available bottle of Pappy van Winkle creates. Every bottle could be sold one hundred times over, despite the price. No wonder that there have been faked bottles. Pappy is released on a set day – Pappy Day – and in some American states is sold by lottery. Fans from thousands of miles away will take their chances. People have been known to be on retail waiting lists for more than a decade before they get a single bottle. Very often, those successful sell their loot to aficionados for many times the original price.

exploredrinks.comQuickquiz:

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Pappy van Winkle’s Family Reserve Bourbon is the flagship from the ‘Old Rip van Winkle Distillery’, but is distilled and bottled at the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfurt, Kentucky by the Sazerac Company. There are a number of different aged Pappy’s, including 15, 20 and Pappy,23-Years-Old.asitis commonly known, dates back to 1893 when 18-year-old Julian van Winkle Snr (who would become known as Pappy) took a job as a salesman with the liquor wholesaler, W. L. Weller & Sons. Eventually, he acquired a part interest in the business and then, in 1910, purchased the Stitzel Distillery in Louisville, Kentucky. Prohibition limited production to ‘medicinal purposes’, but just before it was implemented, they introduced the ‘Old Rip Van

Winkle’ label. Though it did not last. It was not until 1972 that the label was reintroduced when the distillery and various brands were sold – this had been the only label to which the family retained the rights from the sales. When Pappy passed away in 1965 he was 91, and the nation’s oldest active distiller. It was Pappy’s son who had reintroduced the brand. After his death in 1981, Pappy’s grandson, Julian Van Winkle III, took over (his greatgrandson, Preston, has also joined the business since). In 2002, a joint venture was entered for the Sazerac Company to distil and bottle the van Winkle brands at the Buffalo Trace Distillery.

This cult adoration of Pappy has only been around since 1996, when the Chicago Beverage Testing Institute rated the 20-year-old at 99 out of 100, the highest score ever awarded. The bottle was submitted by one of their salesmen, and it is rumoured that it was just as well, as the family was suffering financially at the time.

All of these last five prestige bourbons are part of what is known as Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, a five-bottle series of these glorious limited edition bourbons, released every Autumn to a lucky few. And if they are not enough to convince you that great bourbon can sit at the same level as any spirit then nothing will!

An issue for the company is that the old stocks from the Stitzel-Weller distillery are almost exhausted, but they are continuing production.

The Sazerac Coffee House in New Orleans was founded in 1850 and is considered to be the home of America’s first cocktail, not surprisingly named the Sazerac. This whiskey comes from a special 25 barrels, filled initially for the purpose back in 1998. If anyone is questioning the price tag, consider not only the quality of these bourbons but the fact that over the time it spent in barrels, an extraordinary 72.7 per cent of the original liquid was lost to evaporation.

As mentioned, Pappy van Winkle joined the firm of W. L. Weller, and that gentleman himself is commemorated in the flagship, William Larue Weller Antique Bourbon. Weller developed his original recipe for bourbon by using wheat, not rye, in the mash bill (wheat being the secondary grain, behind the traditional corn), believing it leads to a smoother, more gentle taste. Pappy is also a wheat, not rye, adherent. While there are several bourbons in his name, the Antique is the pinnacle. Uncut, unfiltered, hand-bottled and barrel proof (and with a price to match), the Antique comes from the specially selected 145 best barrels. It comes in at an impressive 67.7 per cent ABV, although this varies from year to year. This whiskey was first introduced in 2005.

Another prestige bourbon, again extremely limited and priced to sit alongside the great cognacs and malts, is the Eagle Rare 17-YearOld 2017. Again from the Buffalo Trace Distillery, it is aged for at least a decade and has been highly awarded in competitions around the globe. And then we have the Sazerac Rye 18 Year-Old.

Finally, the George T. Stagg. Aged in newly charred (for just 55 seconds) oak barrels for more than fifteen years, it comes from a specially selected 309 barrels.

This seems to have made no dent in demand. Production estimates vary, and there are quotes from 6,000 bottles to 84,000 bottles – take your pick, though the higher estimate seems likely to be the most accurate. Whatever the amount, why not an increase in production? (There are rumours that the current output will be expanded by a small quantity by 2025, but there are more rumours about this bourbon than almost any other spirit). Aside from potentially damaging ‘the magic’, Julian van Winkle III has expressed concerns that should tastes, or circumstances change, they may be left with large quantities of unsaleable bourbon. That seems overly cautious, given the extraordinary demand for this bourbon, and one wonders how much of maintaining a tiny production is designed to maintain the mystique.

The Thomas H. Handy Sazerac is an annual release which was designed to meet the consumer demand for aged, barrel strength whiskey. It will vary from year to year, but the distillery does put out an admirable amount of information. The latest came from a select 72 barrels, was 127.2 proof and a whopping 27.2 per cent of the original blend was lost to evaporation while it was ageing. Handy was the bartender who first use rye whiskey in a Sazerac cocktail.

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Part of the myth also stems from the fact that before these mature bourbons were released, it was rare to find any bourbons aged for over 12 years. It would be easy to focus solely on this legendary bourbon when looking at the best of the best, but it is far from the only prestige release and more than a few of them emerge from the Buffalo Trace Distillery.

exploredrinks.comInterest in bubbles has exploded over the past 12 months, and for once we are not talking Champagne. Australian drinkers have embraced the highball and spritzers, and with it an appetite for premium, high quality mixers. Australians are drinking less. The downward trend has been apparent over the last decade, but interest in drinking better has taken off. If you’re reading this, then you are most likely a part of this very movement; keen to learn more about the whiskies on offer, the stories behind the drink you love and the people that make it. But not every occasion is about sipping whisky, served neat or with a touch of water. Whisky goes exceptionally well in classic cocktails like highballs and spritzers (plenty of ideas and recipes on page 200 onwards). If it’s a simple mixed drink you’re after, and you want to do your whisky proud, then look to pair it with a mixer that’s not going to unbalance or dominate your carefully crafted dram with a sugary or cloying sweetness. The carbonation is important too. Overly gassy waters and tonics can dominate the drink, while equally well balanced bubbles carry the natural flavours to the palate. The mixer will typically make up ¾ of your drink, so we suggest you choose wisely. Fortunately, there are a number of options out there for the avid mixer, and we are light years ahead of what was on offer 10 years ago. 200ml bottles of premium mixers now feature in most bottle shop fridges, offering you a range of options in tonics, soda waters, ginger beer and Fever-Treelemonades.is a brand that pioneered the movement towards premium mixers here in Australia, and is well-established on shelves and behind bars around the country. Their use of quality ingredients has set Fever-Tree as the benchmark for others to follow. The quinine, used in the tonic waters and bitter lemon, comes from the original Cinchona trees (colloquially known as ‘fever trees’) from the last remaining plantation in war-torn Congo; fresh green ginger comes from the turbulent Ivory Coast and is blended with a chocolatey ginger from Cochin in the south of India; and ginger from Nigeria makes Fever-Tree Ginger Ale and Ginger Beer. Lemon thyme and rosemary from Provence are infused with lemons from Sicily to make their Mediterranean Tonic Water, the first tonic water created to complement vodka.

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Natural sugars such as cane sugar and fruit sugar have replaced sweeteners and HFCS to create drinks that will complement and enhance premium spirits. After all, if ¾ of your drink is a mixer, make sure you use the best!

SODA WATER: Fever-Tree used soft spring water to create a premium mixer with just the right amount of carbonation. Fever-Tree Soda Water’s versatility allows it to mix well with just about anything in your bar. Try with whisky or bourbon, or any of your favourite spirits or liqueurs.

PREMIUM LEMONADE: A blend of real lemons, spring water and ’sfumatrice’ extracts from Sicilian lemons, Fever-Tree Premium Lemonade contains no artifcial preservatives or sweeteners. Perfect in a refreshing vodka & lemonade.

GINGER ALE: Three natural gingers, subtle botanical flavours and natural spring water are blended to create a refreshing ginger drink with an authentic taste and aroma. Perfect to balance and enhance the flavours of whisky, bourbon and rum.

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FLAVOUR PROFILE PREMIUM INDIAN TONIC WATER: A blend of subtle botanical flavours, such as hand-pressed bitter orange oil from Tanzania, mixed with spring water and the highest quality quinine. Try it out in a classic G&T and see if you notice the difference.

MEDITERRANEAN TONIC WATER: Made by blending essential oils from flowers, fruits and herbs, to create a delicate and floral tonic. Perfect with a smooth vodka or light gin, it can also be enjoyed as a sophisticated ‘adult’ soft drink.

GINGER BEER: Naturally brewed with authentic ginger and spring water, Fever-Tree Ginger Beer offers a deep, long-lasting ginger character that is not too sweet on the palate. Try it in a classic Dark & Stormy, Moscow Mule, non-alcoholic Gunner, or simply on its own.

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Malter, Brian Kinsman, is constantly on the lookout for ingenious innovations in Scotch whisky and, as the person at the helm of the world’s most awarded single malt Scotch, he doesn’t experiment lightly. But experiment he does, the result of which is a special range of unique and rare whiskies that have Glenfiddich devotees and whisky lovers all over the world salivating at the prospect of each new release. A Winter Storm is coming.

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GLENFIDDICH’SEXPERIMENTAL RANGE

Glenfiddich’sexploredrinks.comMaster

There is an Australian connection here too. Craig McDonald, Peller Estates VP of Winemaking, is Australian and started his winemaking career in Mudgee.

The second addition to the series, Glenfiddich Project XX, is one of Glenfiddich’s most unique whiskies. Going against normal whisky making conventions, Brian invited 20 whisky experts from 16 countries around the world to channel their knowledge and develop a progressive whisky. Blended in a variety of different casks, the result is a refined and balanced flavour, with candy floss sweetness and a rich vanilla oakiness. It embodies the warm, fruity character of a classic Glenfiddich whisky, with hints of apple blossom, summer fruits and ripe pear. It is best enjoyed with a frozen grape in a chilled glass.

“Only the rarer whiskies, those aged for 21 years, could cope with the extra Icewine intensity. Having more tannins, extracted from the years in oak, these malts brought out a uniquely fresh lychee note instead of being swamped by sweetness,” said Kinsman.

Landing on our fair shores as this edition of explore WHISKY goes to print is Winter Storm, the third instalment to the Glenfiddich Experimental Series. The limited-edition whisky has been finished in Canadian Icewine casks, resulting in a short, crisp premium whisky imbued with a unique layer of sweetness and complexity. The new expression joins Glenfiddich IPA Experiment, single malt Scotch whisky finished in india pale ale (IPA) and Glenfiddich Project XX (pronounced ‘twenty’), both launched in late 2016. Glenfiddich’s Winter Storm comes as a result of Kinsman’s trip to Canada in January 2016, during which he visited Peller Estate - a renowned winery in Niagara. Enduring freezing weather, Brian toured the beautiful vineyards, where he learnt how the grapes had to be picked by moonlight at -10˚C when they were as hard as pebbles. Inspired by his experience, Brian returned to The Glenfiddich Distillery in Dufftown, where he started experimenting with several French oak Icewine casks from the Canadian winery - filling them with various Glenfiddich aged malts for up to six months.

The Glenfiddich Experimental Series inspires unusual and unexpected variants, and combines the brand’s passion for pushing Scotch whisky boundaries with its interest in collaborating with trailblazers beyond the world of whisky.

The result is a perfect combination of both pioneering liquids, the heightened candied sweetness and oakiness of Glenfiddich is complemented by the mouth-watering tropical fruit notes and underlying wine notes derived from the Icewine.

“It was a privilege to work with Brian on this experiment. We go to extreme lengths to produce our intensely sweet Icewine, and are always looking for ways to push the boundaries of taste, so I was intrigued to see how it could be used to create a new unexpected whisky.

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Scotch whisky imbued with zesty citrus flavours and notes of soft, sweet vanilla and subtle fresh hops.

You’ll find Glenfiddich Winter Storm in stores Australia-wide priced at RRP $350. It comes in a striking white ceramic bottle and an embossed presentation box.

The resulting liquid is a unique combination of the warming soul of whisky and the frozen cold character of Icewine,” said McDonald.

A limited edition - when it’s gone, it’s gone.

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MICRO-MATURATIONAILSABAYSTYLE

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wisdom would suggest that when it comes to whisky, there is nothing quite new or ground-breaking in the foreseeable future. However, a recently established distillery, Ailsa Bay, built in 2007 in Ayrshire, would imply otherwise.

The various different aspects of production of Ailsa Bay will be of considerable interest to aficionados, but what is perhaps most fascinating is that this is a move to a style of whisky not solely or even dominantly determined by “Ailsalocation.BayDistillery has allowed us to do something extremely special,” says Master Blender Brian Kinsman. “Using our precision distilling methods and a special process for cask maturation, I am able to carefully control the outcome of the whisky. With Ailsa Bay, I took exceptional peated malt and ex Baby Bourbon Hudson casks to create a whisky with a balance of smoke and sweetness, to occupy a new space on the flavour map.”

Ailsa Bay is on the same site as the Girvan grain distillery, which was also the site of the Ladyburn distillery, making the Girvan complex a multifunctional operation. A rare thing. Girvan, and Ailsa Bay, are both part of the William Grant & Sons family of independently owned and operated distilleries. Ailsa Bay malts come from a run that lasts only two weeks, one week for lightly peated and one for heavily peated malts. The rest of the time is devoted to the contribution they make to other blends in the William Grant portfolio. The result is a peated Lowland single malt whisky, a spirit as beautiful, balanced and unique as the brand’s timeless muse, Ailsa Craig - a large rock in the ‘Firth of Clyde’ off the Ayrshire coast, West Scotland, which dominates the distillery’s horizon. “With Ailsa Bay, we wanted to create a very heavily peated whisky with all of the sweetness and smokiness we could muster, but also dial down on some of the medicinal notes that characterise some peated whiskies,” says Peter Gordon, Director of William Grant & Sons and great great grandson of William Grant.

Part of Ailsa Bay’s single malt whisky production is a unique micro-maturation process. They also include a ‘stated phenol content’, which is 21 parts per million (PPM), but it is measured from the finished liquid, not the dried malted barley. Ailsa Bay’s method is believed to be more accurate. They also have the world’s first SPPM reading – ‘sweet parts per million’, designed by master blender Brian Kinsman, to give an indication to consumers of the level of sweetness they can expect – hopefully an innovation which catches on. Theirs is 11 SPPM, which they believe provides the ideal balance.

The process of micro-maturation employed by Ailsa Bay is unique to the whisky industry, although it has been used in the production of Cognac. The spirit just off the still, is then cut to the desired ‘cask strength’ for the maturation (ageing) process. It then goes into ex Hudson Baby Bourbon petit casks, between 25 and 100 litres, for a period of six to nine months, which encourages an intense and quick maturation.

The aged whisky maturates are then married and bottled, without chill filtration, at 48.9% abv.

Overall, four different types of oak are used for maturation – the Hudson Baby Bourbon casks, first fill Bourbon, refill American oak and new oak.

All of this happens within their multi-functional distillery, something we are likely to see more of due to its success here. The Ailsa Bay distillery produces an approximate annual capacity of twelve million litres on site.

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It will then be moved to virgin, first-fill/refill American oak casks for the next few years.

“WITH AILSA BAY, WE WANTED TO CREATE A VERY HEAVILY PEATED WHISKY WITH ALL OF THE SWEETNESS AND SMOKINESS WE COULD MUSTER, BUT ALSO DIAL DOWN ON SOME OF THE MEDICINAL NOTES THAT CHARACTERISE SOME PEATED WHISKIES,” SAYS PETER GORDON, DIRECTOR OF WILLIAM GRANT & SONS AND GREAT GREAT GRANDSON OF WILLIAM GRANT.

WORDS JAMES BUNTIN, WHISKY AMBASSADOR &WHISKYCHEESE FINDING THE PERFECT Pairing DETECTIVE WORK:

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I emerge from the warm brightness of the London Underground into the cold, misty evening air of Marylebone, I begin my short walk down Baker Street. Passing by 221B, I find myself reminiscing about the exploits of Sherlock Homes and Dr. Watson and how they would also relish the experience that I am about to have!

In my hand is a rather heavy leather case, not unlike the one dear old Dr. Watson would have had. However mine contains several expressions of single malt whiskies, tasting glasses and water pipettes for two. You see, I’m on my way to one of the best, if not the best, cheese shops in the world - La Fromagerie, Marylebone. I have arranged to meet with my good friend Bruno D’Abo, who is not only the manager of this fine establishment but also a renowned cheese ambassador and expert. Our mission this evening is to find the perfect match of whisky and cheese, and we don’t care how long it takes. “This is going to be awesome!” Bruno promises as he opens the door and invites me in from the chilly London fog. Admittedly, when thinking of pairing food with drink, one doesn’t spontaneously think of single malt whisky and fine cheese.

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They are not traditionally associated with one another, yet when you think about it, they both enjoy a similar rich heritage and tradition. They can both possess similar attributes, whether it’s distinctly smoky, nutty, spicy or yes, even creamy sweetness.

So off we go. I have the whisky, and Bruno has the keys to the cheese room – a massive glass cold room storing literally hundreds of cheeses from around the world.

My love of cheese and whisky pairing started quite a few years earlier in Melbourne, Australia. I was the Whisky Ambassador for William Grant & Sons, and my good friend Richard Blanchard and I opened a week-long pop-up bar to celebrate all things craft. The Balvenie, being the most handcrafted whisky in the world, was the obvious choice, and we invited craftspeople from around Australia to exhibit and tell their stories over some single malts and cheese boards.

As the key turns in the door of the cheese room, my excitement builds. Then, as the door slides open, I am suddenly hit with one of the greatest food experiences I have ever had, as hundreds of different cheeses combine to create a tsunami of aroma that almost takes my breath away. The first thing that pops in to my mind is, “I love cheese!”

A soon as that’s done, try a sip of the whisky at bottle strength.

You may find that, as good as that experience was, the whisky, being high in alcohol, stripped the flavour of the cheese and cleansed your palate far too quickly, not allowing you time to see the connections between the flavours and textures or mouthfeel.

This is because alcohol cleanses…think of how mouthwash works. We don’t want that right now! So, have another go. This time, add two drops of room temperature water to the whisky and mix well by swirling the glass slightly tilted. Using a pipette is best, as

Put simply, you want to taste the whisky through the memory of the cheese. First, put a piece of cheese in your mouth and chew it while moving it around, so that the flavour of the cheese and its texture coat your palate.

One of these craftsmen was Nick Haddow from Bruny Island Cheese Co. in Tasmania. I had the opportunity to sit down with Nick and try his fantastic selection of cheeses with some of the finest Balvenie whiskies. That was it; I was hooked. Over 2,000 tastings later and I am still finding wonderful and surprising matches (Thanks Nick!).

Back at La Fromagerie, Bruno has selected around 20 cheeses of varying styles, textures and ages, from the soft, mild creaminess of a brie or camembert, to the hard and crumbly texture of a young cheshire or caerphilly. The whiskies are a selection from The Balvenie distillery in Dufftown, Scotland. We begin by trying each of the whiskies at strength, so that we can fully understand the profile of each one and its attributes, such as flavour, aroma and texture. Then we move on to the cheese, doing the same thing and taking notes along the way (best done this way when cheese is involved, if you know what I mean…). When we selected a cheese we thought may match with the chosen whisky, we then tried them together. Now there is a way to do this. You don’t just shove the whisky and cheese into your mouth all at once and hope for the best. There is a slightly more complex, near scientific, approach to matching these to their best. It’s imperative to get a good understanding of both the whisky and cheese separately before you bring them together or ‘introduce them’, as I like to say.

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• Balvenie 17 DoubleWood and Idiazabal from Navarre, Spain.

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• Balvenie 21 PortWood and Shropshire Blue from Nottingham, England. Bold blue cheese, similar in style to Stilton but with an incredible butter-like texture.

Ewes milk cheese from the Latxa breed, indigenous to the mountain area around Navarre. Slightly smoky with intense flavours and aromas.

• Balvenie 14 Caribbean Cask and Coolea from Macroom, County Cork, Ireland. Made with cow’s milk from the Meuse Rhine Issel herd, a well-known breed from Germany and Holland, this is a traditional rennet Gouda style cheese.

this allows you to be more accurate. You won’t believe how just one drop of water will change the connection between the cheese and the whisky. Try a piece of the same cheese again, coating your mouth with it, and then try sipping the whisky again through the memory of the cheese. Hopefully, you will see the difference as the flavour and texture of both the whisky and cheese start to come together. If you get a perfect match, you will know it, believe me. If not, go up in increments of one drop of water at a time until you do. Move on to the next whisky and cheese selection and remember, just like creating the unique whiskies and cheeses, this is not an exact science, just good fun!

• Balvenie 12 DoubleWood and Ticklemore from Totnes in Devon, England. This cheese is a semi-soft, natural grey/ white moulded, wrinkled crust made from unpasteurised goats milk using vegetable rennet.

It’s elementary, my dear reader. Remember to eat cheese and drink whisky responsibly.

Warning: You could be here all night, especially if you are sharing the experience with friends who also bring their favourite whiskies and cheese.

After a few memorable hours, these are the matches we settled on:

50 exploredrinks.com AUSTRALIA’S TOP 10 WHISKY BARS We’ve scoured the country high and low for the best venues to sit down, relax and indulge in a dram or two. These bars are all home to impressive collections or rare, limited-release and favourite bottlings, making this list the ultimate guide to where to drink whisky. WHISKY & ALEMENT 270 Russell Street, Melbourne VIC www.whiskyandale.com.au3000 VARNISH ON KING 75 King Street (basement level), Perth WA www.varnishonking.com6000 THE GRESHAM 308 Queen Street, Brisbane QLD www.thegresham.com.au4000 NOLA ADELAIDE 28 Vardon Avenue, Adelaide SA www.nolaadelaide.com5000 THE ROVERWILD 75 Campbell Street, Surry Hills NSW thewildrover.com.au2010

exploredrinks.comDRINKS51COBBLER 7 Browning Street, West End QLD 4101 cobblerbar.com BOILERMAKER HOUSE 209-211 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne VIC 3000 boilermakerhouse.com.au WEBSTER’S BAR 323 King Street, Newtown, NSW 2042 www.webstersbar.com.au THE BAXTER INN Basement 152-156 Clarence Street, Sydney NSW 2000 www.thebaxterinn.com THE ELYSIAN WHISKY BAR 113 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy VIC 3065 theelysianwhiskybar.com.au

Locatedexploredrinks.comonthe original site of The New Town Store, Webster’s is a time capsule of King Street’s rich history. The whisky and cocktail bar pays tribute to the owners and operators of the 19th century grocery store, John and Eliza Webster, with the downstairs bar featuring elegant black and white photographs of the buildings that have stood on the site since the days of this bygone era.

2018 TOP WHISKY BAR FOCUS NEWTOWN

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WEBSTER’S BAR

The venue now spreads across three levels, spanning a vertical timeline of these time periods. Stepping inside at street level, visitors are greeted with an industrial steampunk styled bar, with exposed brick and low-lit fairy lights framing the space. Head upstairs to the second floor and you’ll be transported to a classic speakeasy of the 1920’s Prohibition era, complete with dim lighting, dark wood panelling, tealight candles and seating hidden away in secret nooks and crannies. Take a seat near the higharched windows and revel in the view out over the hustle and bustle of the famous nightlife district. This level is known as the whisky bar & grill, and it’s here that you will find Webster’s 500-strong whisky collection. Guests can indulge in rare, unreleased and exclusive drams, including the bar’s own special blend of Woodford Reserve. There is also a cocktail menu of classic serves alongside six bespoke whisky creations, such as the Jam & Smoke (Caol Isla 12YO, Grand Marnier, egg white, fresh lemon and marmalade jam) and the Webster’s New York Sour (Hudson Maple Cask Rye, egg white, fresh lemon & A pigs Peake House of Sticks Shiraz float). For those who like it neat or are interested in broadening their tasting knowledge, whisky and bourbon flight tasting panels are also available.

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Alongside this, the bar & grill floor regularly plays host to an array of whisky nights and events. On Wednesdays, guests can enjoy 20% off all drams, while the frequent whisky dinners offer the chance to taste unique whisky or boilermaker and food pairings. Up on the top level, you’ll find yourself in your stereotypical Aussie backyard from the 1950s, from the bright green Astrot urf through to the ultra-kitsch plastic flamingos. Bask in the open air while enjoying a 360-degree view over Sydney’s trendy Inner West. Webster’s is located on the corner of King Street and Eliza Street and is open Monday – Sunday. 323 King Street, Newtown NSW T: (02) 9519 1511 W: SundayMonday-SaturdayOpeningwww.webstersbar.com.auHours:10am-4am10am-12am

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Like the apostles, twelve Balvenie Ambassadors are roaming the world, preaching the good word of high-quality Scotch whisky far and wide. Unlike in the bible, there are another two based in Dufftown at the distillery. Here in Australia, it’s Ross Blainey, a true Scot from Brookfield, a wee village just outside Glasgow. Ross arrived in Australia in 2010, and has for the past two years been spreading all that is true about whisky in general and, in particular, the goodness inside each bottle of The Balvenie.

RB: For me, it really is the dream job, and there are so many aspects that keep me going even on the hard days! At The Balvenie, we have some real characters at our distillery who spend years, decades or even a lifetime crafting the whisky we have in our glass on the other side of the world. It keeps me going to know that I’m showing what these real people have worked so hard to create, so far away from where it started. Telling the stories of the people who make it really keeps me going. Each bottle we pop open here has the experience and hard work of generations of people, all of which have their own story. The stories never get old. That’s what keeps me going. eW: Australians are extremely proud of our own whisky industry. How do the Tasmanian, or even mainland, whiskies compare with a true Scotch?

MEET THE BALVENIE WHISKY AMBASSADOR ROSS BLAINEY

eW: Are you finding that the whisky drinker is changing? Are you seeing younger people become more interested? Where is the most considerable interest coming from?

explore WHISKY: As an ambassador for The Balvenie, you must meet a lot of people who already love whisky but want to learn more. What’s the best way to develop your knowledge of whisky, and have you got any tips for those just starting out?

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ROSS BLAINEY: Meeting a lot of great people is one of the reasons I love this job! Starting out, the main thing is to relax and enjoy! People worry about not knowing or understanding enough to appreciate whisky, but the first part of whisky tasting is enjoying yourself. I’ve been working a lot on giving people the tools to do their own food pairing at my events. Everyone understands food and what they like, so using things like cheese, chocolate and fruits can really spark some great conversation and build your knowledge of flavours.

RB: Australia should be very proud! There are some incredible whiskies here! I don’t think it’s about comparing them, or trying to be anything else. Every region of whisky around the world has its distinct style, and the exciting thing to me is that Australia is so young in whisky that we don’t know the exact style yet. We are watching that identity form right now. At The Balvenie, we love to share our knowledge and experience with those starting out, and I’m currently working with people in the industry, such as Bill Lark, to share those stories of working together across the world. More to come on that in 2019… eW: Whisky is a great Father’s Day or Christmas (really any special occasion) present. What are your top three picks for whisky presents? RB: For a special occasion, and every occasion really. my favourite since I was 19 was The Balvenie 12 DoubleWood. It has a special place in whisky history with our Malt Masters’ role in cask finishing, and the whisky really does fit every occasion. For Father’s Day, I think the 17 DoubleWood fits the bill (with a little bit of cheese on the side), and of course, the elegance of the 21 PortWood is something to pull out after a dinner party to really wow your guests.

RB: I think the perception of what a whisky drinker is, is changing. Just look in any of our great whisky bars around the country. The gender of the crowd is split down the middle, the age spans from early 20’s to 60’s, and there is no real dress code. There is not one specific whisky drinker, and that misconception of it being a ‘man’s drink’ is, and should be, gone. Whisky is for everyone. It doesn’t have a gender, it’s a drink! Our craftspeople at the distillery work hard on making the liquid in each bottle and would prefer that everyone feels they can enjoy it.

eW: While many would label yours as the ‘dream job’, some mornings it must still be difficult to drag yourself to the office and put on a smile. What keeps this role fresh and the passion alive?

& Chocolate WHISKY

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SUGGESTION: The Glenlivet Nadurra ‘First Fill American Oak’ paired with coconut and lime dark chocolate “The beautiful bright citrus, subtle vanilla and coconut notes of the whisky are softened and complemented by the bittersweet intensity of the chocolate, with the delicate notes of lime and coconut fattiness playing along to subdue the oaky tannins into a long and deliciously flavourful finish.” Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old paired with orange and almond dark chocolate “The deep, rich and subtle smoky touches of the whisky are superbly complemented by the slightly bittersweet notes of the orange and chocolate, with the soft almond nuttiness helping to amplify the subtle sherry notes in this superb blended whisky,” ISLAY WHISKY Whiskies from the island of Islay have traditionally been made in the heavily peated style, where the drying of the barley in the malting stage imbues it with an intense smoky character that is often balanced by flavours of toffee, dried fruits and a delicate saltiness. These flavours can be complemented and contrasted in a couple of different ways. One option is to contrast the peat notes with mint chocolate, to help soften the smoke with the cooling sensation of the sweet mint and bittersweet chocolate. Another option is to match it with salted caramel chocolate to further amplify the maritime subtleties in Islay whiskies, as well soften the intense flavours of the whisky with the sweet caramel toffee.

SUGGESTION: Lagavulin 16-Year-Old paired with intense mint dark chocolate “I love the way this complex and powerfully built whisky is contrasted by the bright mint notes and the smooth and creamy, bittersweet mouthfeel in this chocolate.” Ardbeg 10-Year-Old paired with salted caramel dark chocolate “The heavily peated, complex oak and subtle caramel characters of this legendary whisky are accentuated by the noticeable saltiness of the chocolate, amplifying the sweet caramel, slight bitter toffee and creamy notes of the dark chocolate.”

There are many ways to enjoy your favourite whisky. Often that’s neat in a Glencairn glass, as you savour the aromas and flavours that are present from the many years of mild oxidation and oak barrel maturation. That’s the purest form of whisky appreciation. However, in more recent times, there have been many inroads made into the enjoyment of whiskies with a sweet or savoury accompaniment. This has allowed for more discussion about our favourite foods and how they complement or contrast the flavours in a good whisky. Briefly, the foods we enjoy the taste of set off a cascade of sensations in the brain, triggered by the physiological and chemical makeup of those foods. The five main basic tastes that our tongues detect from the food we eat are sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami – the description given to the taste sensation of savoury, meaty, unctuous, fatty flavours. When these tastes are detected by taste buds on the tongue, the chemo-receptors in the olfactory bulb behind the nose are activated with the presence of air, to identify the specific taste of the food which we describe as flavour. The perception of these thousands of different flavours is dependent on the nose being open, to allow for the olfactory bulb to unlock them and match the chemical scent code with something that we recognise.

WORDS BEN DAVIDSON

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SPEYSIDE WHISKY Whiskies from around the River Spey tend to be gentle and soft, with a delicate fruity character, sometimes typified as orchard fruits like apple or pear, with notes of citrus, vanilla, coconut and subtle honey. These flavours are beautifully complemented by medium dark chocolate with orange and almond, or perhaps medium dark chocolate with coconut and lime.

Pairing whisky and chocolate has been discovered as a delicious way to enjoy the moment of drinking a whisky with friends. It works equally well for new consumers early on in their journey of discovery, as well as for seasoned aficionados who don’t mind a wee sweetie while they enjoy their favourite dram. In chocolate, there are varying degrees of the raw cacao ingredient, which is quite bitter and astringent on its own. It’s the addition of sugars and milk solids that helps to sweeten the cacao to make it palatable, and turns it into chocolate. But for me, it’s the flavour elements added into the chocolate which makes it a more exciting flavour match when paired with whisky. Here are some suggestions to try when you are next settling down to a neat whisky, or to try at your dinner party when it’s time for dessert.

One of life’s priv ileges. DRINK RESPONSIBLY. For people 18+ only. Enjoy in moderation.

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SUGGESTION: The Dalmore 15-Year-Old paired with fruit & hazelnut dark chocolate “The rich and bold taste of The Dalmore, with its prominent sherry butt aged influence, is ideally accompanied by the sweet raisins and distinctive hazelnut flavours in the chocolate, amplifying the deep flavours of sweet sherry and nuttiness in the whisky.” Talisker 10-Year-Old paired with sea salt dark chocolate “This sublime whisky perfectly represents its location by the sea, elemental in its subtle smokiness and gentle saltiness, as one would expect from this coastal whisky. It goes beautifully with a natural sea salt dark chocolate that softens the intense flavours, bringing it together into a gratifying taste sensation”.

How To Do It: Have a taste of the whisky. Have a taste of the Havechocolate.amoreprominent taste of whisky and have a bigger taste of the chocolate. Sit back and savour the flavours.

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HIGHLAND / ISLES WHISKY Whiskies from the Highlands span a variety of styles and include some of the most remote distilleries in Scotland. The flavours can be bold and heathery, right through to light and maritime-influenced. Each whisky is often nuanced by the terroir where it is produced, which ranges from rugged coastline to moor and mountains, with variable weather conditions adding to the mix. While some are peated, heavily sherried or have a salty tang from the sea, others are fresh, light and grassy. The sherried whiskies combine beautifully with raisins and nut chocolate, while some island whiskies are accentuated by sea-salt dark chocolate.

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WORDS SIMON MCGORAM, DIAGEO NATIONAL WHISKY AMBASSADOR WHY THIS UNLIKELY PAIRING IS

Whisky and oysters, at first glance, might seem like an unlikely partnership, but it’s a pairing that can be astonishingly good given the right ingredients. It really is a must try combination that has the power to convert whisky lovers into oyster lovers and vice versa.

A Must-Try!

HOT TIP: Should you be lucky enough to visit Talisker Distiller on the shores of Loch Harport in Skye make sure you grab a bottle from the distillery and take a short stroll to the Oyster Shed. They sell a variety of fresh seafood including Pacific Oysters straight out of the loch!

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PACIFIC OYSTERS WITH LAGAVULIN 8-YEAR-OLD

A freshly shucked oyster – still containing its ‘liquor’ (sea water from the inlet where it was farmed) will a have a powerful sea-fresh flavour. Immediately, these flavours bring to mind whiskies from the west coast of Scotland and, in particular, Talisker – sweet, spicy, smoky and with a distinct briny/ maritime nature. Both ingredients here display a real sense of place, but it’s in the bringing together of these two products – your local oysters with the Isle of Skye’s finest – that the magic really happens. The pairing works on many levels. The saltiness and smokiness of the whisky compliments the oyster, whilst the spiciness and sweetness cut and contrast respectively.

What we call ‘The Oyster Ritual’ at Talisker is a great way to enjoy the experience. Here’s how: STEP ONE: Pour yourself a little (30ml) neat Talisker Storm (a more intense, sea-fresh Talisker expression) and take a sip STEP TWO: Down your freshly shucked oyster STEP THREE: Pour 30ml of Talisker into your oyster shell STEP FOUR: Drink the Talisker Storm from the shell OYSTER SPECIES

SYDNEY ROCK OYSTERS WITH OBAN 14-YEAR-OLD

There are three species of oyster found in Australian waters – two native and one introduced. Sydney Rock (native) and the Pacific Oyster (introduced) are the most common with Angassi (a native flat oyster) being a little less so.

THE OYSTER RITUAL WITH TALISKER STORM

The native Sydney Rock Oyster – despite its name – can be found around much of Australia’s coastline, though farming is concentrated in New South Wales. Sydney Rocks offer a rich savoury flavour with a subtle mineral and herbaceous finish. Sydney Rock Oysters offer a variety of flavours well suited to being paired with a range of whiskies, ranging from fruity, complex and lightly peated malts, through to rich, intense, spicy and smoky island malts. My tip is to try Sydney Rock Oysters with a coastal Highland malt like Oban 14-Year-Old. Lightly peated, fruity, malty and with just a subtle maritime character and mineral spiciness coming through, it stands up to the complex flavours found in these oysters.

Talisker really is the ideal partner to oysters in this regard. But don’t be afraid to experiment with other whiskies – there’s a lot of fun to be had in this exploration!

Sticking to the West Coast of Scotland our next pairing features the rich and powerful, yet youthfully fresh Lagavulin 8-Year-Old with Pacific Oysters. Pacific oysters were introduced from Japan in the 1940s, and are the most common in Australia. They are grown in the southern Australian waters of South Australia and Tasmania, and in some New South Wales estuaries. They tend to be more firmly textured, with a refreshing salty/sweet ocean burst and subtle herbaceous flavour – it’s that ‘ocean burst’ that works so well with the maritime intensity and smoke of Lagavulin 8-Year-Old.

Whiskyexploredrinks.comisenjoying a golden period of growth. This is, of course, no surprise to you if you picked up this publication – you’re already a fan and proud that your local bottle-shop, bar or even pub now boasts an impressive selection Scotch, Irish, American, Australian and Japanese whiskies. But what is enabling this growth? Why is every other Joe Blogs now a member of a whisky appreciation club?

WORDS SIMON MCGORAM, DIAGEO NATIONAL WHISKY AMBASSADOR WHY THE ‘B-WORD’ HAS A BRIGHT FUTURE AHEAD

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ART OF BLENDING CELEBRATE THE

The answer is what it has always been – it’s thanks to the art of blending. For you single malt devotees out there this may be a little surprising as the ‘b-word’ is something you rarely drop these days in polite conversation. The thing is, the art of blending is as important now as it has ever been and the future for this craft is looking bright indeed. Through the educational seminars and training that I run as Diageo’s National Whisky Ambassador, a real ‘a-ha’ moment for budding whisky enthusiasts is realising that the art blending isn’t limited to blended Scotch whisky, but even that single malt you’re drinking has been crafted by an expert blender. As no two casks age the same, distillery bottlings are almost always a marriage of casks pulled together to reflect a house style or desired flavour expression. However, amongst the whisky drinking elite there is an endless quest for achieving a perceived purity in Scotch whisky, through an increased focus on the ‘singularity’ of the whisky they are drinking, with ‘limited-edition’, ‘non-chill filtered’, ‘cask-strength’ and ‘singlecask’ being their markers for quality. That’s a lot of hyphens! Whilst these single-cask bottlings are often delicious, it’s erroneous to believe that these casks – as unique as they may be – are innately superior or reflect a distillery’s true character. On the contrary they can be a one-dimensional look at a distillery’s stylejust one shade of that maker’s true colour.

Whisky in general, and Scotch in particular, is notorious for being an intimidating category to get into for novice drinkers – but if blends can continue to be part of the answer here then that is something to be celebrated.

Jim Murray the author of The Whisky Bible once described Johnnie Walker Black Label as, the ‘Everest of deluxe whiskies’, saying that, “there is not a blender who would not give their right arm - or even their left one - for the recipe of this supreme whisky. The trouble is, even if they had it, they would then struggle to find the stock. It represents the best value for money of any whisky in the world.”

“WE NEED TO REMEMBER BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY IS A WHISKY OF THE PEOPLE – MORE ACCESSIBLE IN NATURE THROUGH MIXABLITY, FLAVOUR AND PRICE POINT.”

Closer to home, we’ve been lucky enough to see Australian whisky really take off in recent years but high entry level prices - usually well in excess of $90 a bottle - mean that the majority of Australians are yet to experience its promise.

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Despite blends having their advocates, there’s a common misconception that with the rise in popularity of single malts, blended Scotch has fallen by the wayside. Single malts still only make up about 10% of global volume despite their growth and have been at this level for some time – testament to the art of blending’s continued relevance. We need to remember blended Scotch whisky is a whisky of the people – more accessible in nature through mixablity, flavour and price point.

By extension blended whisky enables the expert blender to paint a whole picture, not just in monochrome. The different distilleries offer access to a wider palate, with each cask in turn offering its own shade of that colour. This isn’t new thinking in the whisky trade, with famed whisky writer Dave Broom weighing in on the debate in his book ‘The World Atlas of Whisky’: “Malts are about intensity of character,” he writes. “Single malt bottlings are about maximizing this singularity. Blends are about creating a totality.” Single malts are known as being a product of place, but in a blend flavour becomes the focus. Blends use malts with distinctive regional character to create their ‘totality’ but they lean more to being a product of people rather than place. Blends are made by experts, craftspeople with decades of experience providing an innate understanding of blending philosophy and an encyclopaedic knowledge of their maturing stocks. At Diageo, our experienced blending team is lucky to have a flavour palate that’s bigger than anyone else. They have access to over 8 million casks of maturing whisky from more than 30 distilleries enabling them to produce a dizzyingly large array of blends including famous brands like Bells, Black & White, Old Parr, Vat 69, Buchanan’s, White Horse and and, of course, the world’s favourite whisky Johnnie Walker.

I’m going to make a prediction here – and there’s always the risk I’ll get this completely wrong and be haunted by this being forever in print – but the art of blending is the answer! That’s right in coming years we’ll see Australian producers putting blended whisky into people’s hands.

The art of blending is something to be celebrated. It’s putting more whisky into more hands, it’s fundamental in our understanding of single malts’ house style and it’s about unlocking and harnessing flavour. The ‘b-word’ - be it Scotch, Australian or other has a promising future! exploredrinks.com

Let’s not forget that blends offer an extraordinary amount of complexity versus price. Take a look at Johnnie Walker Black Label – a 12-year-old blended Scotch whisky. This dram is considered a benchmark, a yardstick against what other whiskies should be judged. It’s assembled by a team of 12 expert blenders, led by Doctor Jim Beveridge – only Walker’s 6th Master Blender in almost 200 years of history - many of whom have several decades of experience in the industry. They combine over 30 malt and grain whiskies from the four corners of Scotland including grassy Cardhu from Speyside, waxy Clynelish from the Northern Highlands, fragrant Glenkinchie from the Lowlands and smoky Caol Ila from Islay. As a blend Black Label manages to capture all the flavours of Scotch whisky in a single glass.

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explore WHISKY: What is one of your earliest whisky memories that propelled you into your illustrious career? JIM BEVERAGE: Growing up, you were always aware of Scotch whisky. It was part of the fabric of Scotland, something you knew was uniquely Scottish and that people were very proud of.

What drives the pursuit of quality is flavour, experimentation and a lot of patience. Leading our small team of 12 whisky experts, we put these three pillars at the heart of everything we do. All the team are natural experimenters. We’re always questioning things and challenging ourselves to find new flavours by using our expertise and our intuition to explore what’s possible. In this way, we continue the legacy of those six generations of Master Blender who have stood in my shoes.

WHISKY ROYALTY JIM BEVERIDGE

When I joined Johnnie Walker in as a flavour chemist in 1979, working with the malt and grain to understand how they mature in the wood, those early memories of just how important Scotch was to people started to come together in a more coherent way. That’s when my passion for Scotch was fired, and that’s when it became more than just a job to me. eW: Is there a philosophy that guides you when it comes to blending Scotch JB:whiskies? My philosophy and, indeed, that of Johnnie Walker, has always been about the pursuit of quality. When John Walker started blending whisky, most single malts were terribly inconsistent. He started blending them together so that his whisky tasted just as good every time. John was pursuing and delivering quality, and we do the same today. Bringing that philosophy to whisky is something which proved to be extremely popular then, just as it is today.

Johnnie Walker in 1979 as an analytical chemist and has gone on to be one of the most influential master blenders in the whisky world. His expertise is widely recognised and just part of the reason he is entrusted with the world’s most famous whisky – Johnnie Walker.

eW: How has your background in analytical chemistry been put into practice when it comes to blending whisky?

Jimexploredrinks.comBeveridgejoined

All of this requires a lot of patience. The nature of whisky means that things can take a long time. If you want to experiment with flavour to discover something new, then you have to expect to wait a long time to see the fruits of your labour.

JB: An understanding of the chemistry involved in making whisky is the bedrock of my work. During the first years of my career with Johnnie Walker as a flavour chemist, it became obvious to me how science could be applied to whisky production. There is no doubt that an analytical mind and a scientific background is extremely useful when it comes to making whisky, but before any of that you need a passion for flavour.

JB: The four main whisky producing regions and the single malts that come from these corners of Scotland all have their own distinct flavour characteristics, and it’s that variety of flavour that’s of most interest to me as a Master Blender.

JB: Of course. To craft a blend means using single malt and grain whiskies and, therefore, understanding these whiskies is critical to my work as Master Blender. It’s very important for me to understand the range of flavours that come from each distillery and the whiskies they Whileproduce.agood single malt or grain whisky can be wonderful on its own, what really excites me is thinking about how each of these great whiskies can also be building blocks of flavour to produce something that is greater than the sum of its parts. Often, it’s in bringing together the range of flavours, characters and textures in different single malts and grains that you begin to unlock the hidden depths of the individual whiskies.

JB: For me, distilling and blending are both science and art. The technicalities of malting, distilling, maturing and blending Scotch means that you make decisions at the right moments that are defined by science - chemistry, physics and maths. Yet, there are so many moments where imagination and flair are the ingredients that make this liquid so special. The real skill is bringing these worlds together in harmony.

It’s the combination of these characteristics that brings such quality to Johnnie Walker.

eW: Can you mention about the role of single malt and grain whisky when it comes to assembling a blend for Johnnie Walker?

What we do is not just about combining different expressions. With every whisky playing its own, individual role, it’s about how each of the whiskies can bring out a particular aspect or note in another whisky. For me, that means understanding a single malt is not just about comprehending its own flavours and layers but really understanding how those things might work as part of a bigger picture - and that’s pretty exciting!

JB: Right now, I am enjoying a Johnnie Walker highball - Johnnie Walker Red Label or Johnnie Walker Black Label and soda (or ginger - if you prefer). It’s a very refreshing tasting drink, but what I like about it most is that it showcases the whisky. It’s a brilliant way to taste the richness of Johnnie Walker.

eW: Do you believe that distilling is a science and blending is an art? Please explain.

For example, iconic distilleries, such as Clynelish in the north with its rich, vibrant flavours; the peatiness of the whiskies produced on the islands to the west of the mainland, such as Lagavulin or Talisker; the sweet and fruity single malts, such as Cardhu from Speyside; and the Lowland whiskies, such as the delicate fresh fruit character of Glenkinchie, when brought together can create a wonderful roundness in flavour, a richness and a balance.

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JB: I feel a great duty to all our wonderful whiskies and to ensuring the continued consistency and quality of our Scotch. There is an amazing heritage behind Johnnie Walker. We all, if you like, stand on the shoulders of giants - all the men and women who made Johnnie Walker the iconic Scotch whisky that it is today. That tradition of skilled whisky making and innovation is in the DNA of Johnnie Walker. What we are doing in the 21st century is expressing our version of that heritage. In my job, I am effectively trying to foresee the future. With something like Johnnie Walker Black Label, I’m making decisions that will have to hold for 12 or 18 years. You’re leaving a legacy for those who come later, which is as daunting as fulfilling the legacy of those who’ve gone before. It’s my job to take our experiments and the passion of our diverse small team of whisky experts and focus our ideas into something which honours the unbroken blending heritage of Johnnie Walker.

eW: Can you mention some of your favourite single malts when it comes to using them in a blended Scotch? What do they bring to the flavour profile of the finished whisky?

eW: At the end of a hard days’ work what do you find yourself pouring a glass of?

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eW: How has the heritage of the Johnnie Walker blends influenced your approach to making whisky today?

Oak adds all the colour and most of the flavour to whisky. Not surprisingly, oak casks* are the single most expensive material in the manufacture of whisky.

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This important raw material relies on a single species of hardwood: oak. Oak has proven to be the ideal wood for flavour, flexible shaping and extended storage. Hundreds of oak species are indigenous to the northern hemisphere. Only a dozen and their subspecies are suitable for whisky, and each

WORDS CHRIS MIDDLETON

67 In the US, straight bourbon and rye, by law, can only use new charred American white oak barrels. These wooden sugar cubes create over 80 per cent of bourbon whiskey’s flavour. For malt whisky maturation, over 60 per cent of the flavours are derived from their oak containers. That’s because the more delicate malt spirit requires used casks to gain their flavour, gently. In Scotland and Ireland, the law only permits the use of oak. Today, over 95 per cent of first fill casks are ex-bourbon barrels, with the remaining balance mainly ex-sherry wood. That’s because the bourbon barrels can only be used once to make bourbon. With the global surge in bourbon sales, there’s plenty of empty, healthy and modestly priced barrels to buy. Sherry wood, by comparison, is five times more expensive due to the sherry market collapsing. In Scotland, casks can be used many times, giving some casks the life of a centenarian. Many of the barrels are reconditioned and enjoy multiple lives under different wood programs to mature malt and grain whiskies. The cask being a wooden sugar cube is an apt metaphor. Over 70 per cent of oak wood is made up of the simple sugars cellulose, hemicellulose and xylose, plus flavouring compounds like lignin, tannins, lactones and other tasty volatiles. When preparing the cask for the spirit, the cooper will toast or char the internal staves, caramelising these sugars into a sweet cube. As soon as the spirit fills the cask, it soaks into the stave wood. The ethanol and water act as soluble agents, dissolving the sugars and flavonoids in the wood to bring the colour and flavour to the spirit. The ratio of water to spirit plays a vital role in the maturation of different styles of whiskies.

NO OAK. NO WHISKY.

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Bourbon is usually entered into the barrel at around 58 per cent ABV, by law not more than 62.5 per cent ABV. A new charred barrel with a corn-based mash bill (malted barley plus rye or wheat), stored in the warm Kentucky or Tennessee countryside yields the best whisky flavours. In Scotland, larger hogshead casks, in cool storage conditions, using lighter malt spirit are filled at 63.5 per cent ABV; grain whisky 69.5 per cent. Straight bourbon takes over four years to ripen, Scottish whisky, more than 10. Scotland’s cool stable climate in dunnage warehouses means the cask is breathing under less stressful conditions, so it’s slower and more prolonged, allowing other chemical reactions to take place to enhance the whisky’s complexity. In Kentucky and Tennessee, in tin-sheeted warehouses, the barrels behave more like sponges as variations in daily temperature squeeze the whisky in and out of the staves to maximise extraction. Grain, fermentation and the distillation contribute to the base raw spirit; it’s the wood and maturation time (extraction, interaction and subtraction) that creates most of the flavour.

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68 exploredrinks.com species delivers different flavours. American white oak (Quercus Alba) is more vibrant in vanillins and lactones, providing sweet coconut notes. European oaks (Quercus Petraea and Sessils) have more tannins and spicy notes, while Asian oaks (Quercus Mongolica and Crispula) are characterised with sandalwood and cedar. Each oak species has its unique lifecycle and growth composition. White oak is grown for 70 years and can be sawn. European oaks take twice as long to grow, and can only be split. Even the grain of each oak tree is a product of its terroir of soil, position and climate. White oak grown in cooler Pennsylvania has tighter growth rings than white oak from warmer Arkansas. In 2010, Buffalo Trace conducted an oak experiment using 137 variables and producing 1,400 expressions. Some of the variables included staves cut from different parts of the tree, some longer seasoning periods, others stored in different maturation conditions. The result, every variable had an impact on the finished whisky. Just as every cask will produce flavour nuances, so too every stave and how its processed will have flavour variants. Oak is a complex material and a delicious flavour source that keeps giving. After logging the oak tree, it is cut into staves and seasoned in the open elements for two to three years to allow the green sap to degrade, with bacteria and wood fungi hydrolysing the wood and improving the oak’s flavour. Cooperages shape the staves to raise the cask, which is held tight by external metal hoops, the only non-oak part of the cask. A gentle fire toasts the internal staves to convert the carbohydrates into sugars. Bourbon cooperages scorch the staves, caramelising the sugars and creating a charcoal skin inside the barrel which also acts as a natural filtration system.

Contact William Grants & Sons for further information (02) 9409 5100 or wgsa.customerservice@wgrant.com www.williamgrant.com #triplewoodtriplegood GrantswhiskyAU

“The Triple Wood process is at the very heart of what we create here at Grant’s. As a result of ageing our whiskies in three different casks, our Triple Wood is distinctive to taste, with a balance of qualities drawn from the character of the wood. I love the complexity of spice, smooth vanilla and the sweet edge gathered from that combination of three casks,” said The Grants master blender, Brian Kinsman. It takes 198 pairs of hands to make Grant’s whisky from grain to glass, with a totally shared commitment to the process. With five generations of the Grant family making whisky since 1887, Grant’s remains the only blended whisky producer to have its own Stillman (‘The Maker’), Cooper (‘The Muscle’) and Master Blender (‘The Master’) working together in one place. Having craftsmen’s expertise under one roof means the collaborative process is seamless. Specialist expertise is passed from one generation to the next, meaning that the whisky created is of consistently high quality with the same Grant’s taste and aroma.

Much-loved Grant’s Whisky is undergoing the most significant change for twenty years. The world’s number three Scotch whisky, and Australia’s number two, has renamed its signature blend – to Grants Triple Wood.

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TASTING NOTES: Grant’s Triple Wood Nose: Complex, clean with notes of ripe pear and summer fruits Palate: Balances vanilla sweetness with malty and light floral fragrances Finish: Long and sweet with a subtle hint of smoke

What is Grants Triple Wood? As the name suggests, Grant’s Triple Wood is all about the wood regime. The use of wood plays a vital role in the creation of whisky and Grant’s have been using the same formula for the last 130 years; a massive 60% of its flavour is drawn from cask influence. So, rather than being aged in just one type of cask, Grant’s Triple Wood liquid is now rested in three types of barrel –Virgin Oak which provides spicy robustness, American Oak lending subtle vanilla smoothness and Refill Bourbon bringing brown sugar sweetness – for a truly rich, smooth and mellow taste.

TRIPLE GRANT’SWOOD

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The distillery, subject to the country’s whisky regulations, has a range of options to shape their wood policy and flavour styles of whisky for their brands. For simplicity’s sake, we’ll look at bourbon and Scotch. Bourbon is straight-forward as they can only use virgin new American charred white oak barrels. The distillery can choose char levels from No.1 to No. 4, the alligator char. The standard 200-litre barrel is not mandatory. Some barrels are smaller, which is how craft distillers can expedite extraction and get to market faster. The proof entry cannot be over 62.5 per cent ABV. Leaving more headspace when the barrel is filled means more air is present to aid oxidisation. Once filled, the maturation conditions offer many more variables to affect the whisky’s flavour. The storage conditions in different types of barrelhouse construction, the location, the climate (temperature, humidity, wind, etc.) and location of the rick in the warehouse impacts on its flavour profile. The top level, the buzzard’s nest, is hot and stressful, the floor cooler and slower. Artificially heating the barrelhouse in winter works the whisky and wood year round, others experiment with accelerated maturation techniques like sonification. Finally, filtration treatments and the bottling proof will complete the tweaking of the whisky’s finished flavour. In Scotland, they have more variables to harness. They can use any oak, not only white oak. The can use virgin, second, third or even fourth use casks. More importantly, they are allowed to used barrels impregnated with the flavours of a previous occupant. Exbourbon has the print of American whisky in the staves, ex-sherry and ex-port wood the residual flavours of the fortified wine. After maturation, other techniques add to the flavour complexity. Such as finishing in other types of casks, where, say, another 12 months in oloroso sherry or madeira hogsheads adds an extra flavour layer. Add solera-style ageing, blending, and filtration processes and the variations seem endless. All the colour, most of the aroma, and flavour is due to the marvellous qualities of oak. Without oak, we wouldn’t have whisky. *Cask is a generic term for the wooden liquid container. Casks come in different capacitates with different names such as port pipe (650 litres), sherry butt (500L), hogshead (capacity varies by country and industry, i.e. 300L in Australian wine, 225 – 250L in Scotland’s whisky) and the barrel is an American generic term for a cask (US standard is 200L). Australia and Ireland are the only Western whiskyproducing countries not to specify oak by law, merely ‘storage in wood’ since Australia’s Spirits Act of 1906.

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HASAUSTRALIANEVERHADITSOGOOD

Australians hold a unique place in the world of whisky. Every year since the 1880s, whisky has been our most popular spirit. No other country has crowned whisky the king of spirits every year for over 130 years. Today, whisky still commands a dominant 45 per cent of the total spirits consumed. During this reign, whisky has fought off the arrival of new spirit categories arriving after the Second World War, with the influx of Eastern European and Mediterranean immigrants, vodka and ouzo, followed by white rum, tequila and mezcal, and now cachaça, pisco and baijiu. Regardless of our ethnic composition, we remain a whisky nation.

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WORDS CHRIS MIDDLETON With each generation whisky fashions change, from Scotch to Australian whisky, back to Scotch and now bourbon whisky. So too consumption patterns and how we drink whisky change. As whisky is being rediscovered, from Baby Boomers to Millennials, it’s the cocktail trend and sipping whiskies that are creating renewed interest. Counterintuitively, our per capita consumption of whisky is declining. In other words, as the population increases, new cohorts enter and older ones live longer, whisky is not keeping pace. In recent years, whisky case sales have declined, yet the amount of money we spend has upsurged. The reason: we want to drink better whiskies. The smaller premium segments are enjoying double-digit growth, while the voluminous mainstream and economy segments wane. Over the past decade, segments like malt whisky have skyrocketed fivefold, albeit from a small base. This is good news for the fledgeling craft malt whisky distillers, who can catch a ride on this consumer malt and premium whisky wave. Bourbon whiskey, which commands over half of the whisky consumption in Australia, has seen its premium segment grow by 40 per cent while the lower segments decline. Also, over the past 10 years, the major distilleries in Scotland and America have invested billions of dollars to significantly increase their capacity to tap into this global whisky boom. Joining, if not stimulating, this demand is the arrival of small craft distilleries worldwide; they too have increased more than fivefold since 2008. Fifty countries are making whisky today, a far cry from a dozen counties in the 1980s. Following the rapid expansion in the distilling industry, over a thousand new whisky brands, and even more new line extensions released from existing brands, are hitting the market. Never before have we had such choice, competitive prices, and outstanding styles of whisky to drink, from Taiwan to Sweden, Scotland to Kentucky. This boom is described as whisky’s new ‘Golden Age’. Much of it is high quality at good value, as advances in science, technology and inventiveness push whisky into new and exciting directions, from grain to Thewood.established international brands continue to dominate our whisky landscape, with the three top brands holding half of the total whisky sales. In the small malt segment, five malt brands dominate. Attention is being garnered by the new craft segment, which has carved out a noisy half per cent share in the whisky category. Craft is the amorphous term attributed to micro-distilleries and nano startups that have populated the whisky landscape over the past two decades. Their smaller scale operation and more manual resourcing have conferred on them the perception of

74 exploredrinks.com being more artisan than significant distilleries. In marketing parlance, provenance and authenticity make craft whiskies more popular with younger drinkers seeking to discover a brand, especially as the cocktail phenomenon sweeps the night economy. Marketing the provenance to a town, suburb or district, sourcing local ingredients and being operated by locals spurs in the consumer a sense of small, local and intimate, earning them the ‘craft’ moniker. As Australia’s sizeable industrial whisky distilleries were shutting-down, the new small craft movement was in ideation. By the mid1990s, the old Australian whisky brands that dominated sales for decades disappeared, from both the liquor shelves and memory: Corio, Four Seasons, Bond 7, etc. As the last of the large distilleries silenced their stills, it was school teachers, gun store owners, property developers, plumbers and publicans who put their hands to experimental whisky distilling. It was as if a bushfire had wiped out the old hardwood trees and new shoots reappeared from their ashes. Most of these new craft whiskies were poorly made, young whiskies that struggled in the 21st century. Some of these distilleries closed, however persistence and outsider help slowly improved the quality. Twenty years later, some labels were winning awards in competitions. The success of these pioneers and the low barriers to entry attracted dozens of wannabe distillers. Some were looking for a sea change, others to lure tourists to a food stop and, for younger recruits, a different and romantic career path beckoned. The transmission of knowledge and skills proliferated, with specialist suppliers like still fabricators, coopers and maltsters serving this demand. From 10 whisky distillery start-ups in 2005, a hundred operate or are in development in Australia today. In 2018, spirit production is projected to exceed one million litres of pure alcohol. The six largest distilleries generate over two-thirds of this spirit. By 2021, capacity could increase by another four million litres, as significant plant upgrades and new large distilleries are erected to capitalise on this current upswing. Australia, along with the rest of the world is experiencing an exciting and expansive whisky era. There are extraordinarily good, high calibre new whiskies released almost every day, and the major distilleries keep improving their international brands. The massive leaps in world production and entry by new players mean prices, quality and choice will remain very competitive. The whisky drinker has never had it so good.

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• Australia was the fifth largest whisky producing nation in the world until the 1960s, when Japan moved up the rankings: 1. Scotland, 2. US, 3. Canada, 4. Ireland.

• In the 1920s, Australia had the largest malt whisky distillery in the world, Federal Distillery, in Port Melbourne. It also had the world’s largest mash tun at 2.75 million litres.

• Australian whisky holds 0.3 per cent of the whisky drunk, yet Australians drink over 5 per cent of the global whisky (excluding India and Thai whisky made with molasses).

• Until 1994, two of Australia’s largest grain whisky distilleries quietly operated in Botany, Sydney and Nuriootpa in the Barossa Valley. Seagram’s Continental and United Distillers closed these distilleries as the first nano-malt whiskies started.

• Australia has the highest per capita consumption of bourbon in the world, 2.5 times more than the US.

• About 100 distilleries make whisky, two-thirds of the sales are from STARWARD, Hellyers Road and Limeburners.

• Today, Australian whisky represents less than 0.03 per cent of total world whisky sales, excluding Indian and Thai molasses-based whiskies.

• The first Australian whisky was made at Parramatta by the Webb brothers in 1793; by 1796 distilling was banned until 1822.

• Australia was the UK’s top export market for Scotch whisky every year from 1880 to 1939. After the Second World War, Australian whisky brands held 75% of the local whisky market.

• In 1925, the number one selling brand of whisky in Australia was Old Court. It was an Australian blended malt whisky, the first and only time a malt whisky brand was a market leader anywhere in the world.

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MEET: DAVID VITALE, FOUNDER OF STARWARD WHISKY

David Vitale established Starward Whisky in 2004 under a simple premise – whisky doesn’t need to be complicated and inaccessible. He saw a gap in the market for young, great tasting whisky at an approachable price point, and turned his hobby brewing skills towards making this vision a reality. The proof is in the pudding, as Starward has been lauded both in Australia and abroad, and now produces 250,000 litres per annum. explore WHISKY caught up with David recently to find out how he got started in the industry, why he believes Australian whisky is unique and what he sees for the future of the category.

explore WHISKY: Your background isn’t in the WHISKY industry. What inspired you to create Starward whisky and how have you come to this point?

David Vitale: My background is actually in hobby home brewing. That was my weekend passion. I used to own an eLearning business, delivering professional development to financial advisors, and developed a bit of a passion for making stuff at home. I thought, when I sold the eLearning business, that I would perhaps set up a micro-brewery but, unfortunately, good beer doesn’t travel well – as we all know. So, I shelved that idea and went back into consulting before realising that, indeed, single malt whiskies have a lot in common with craft beers, in terms of that provenance of place and that story. So, once I realised that single malts were basically just distilled beers, I applied all of that learning and passion I had for brewing into whiskies, which travel a whole heap better around the world. The origin was really thinking about whisky from a craft beer perspective. eW: To your knowledge, at this stage were there other distilleries in Australia attacking whisky production from this perspective, or did Starward lead the way?

DV: I actually discovered whisky at the Lark Distillery. Up until then, my understanding of whiskies was very limited. Chivas Regal was what we gave our accountant as a gift at Christmas, and Johnnie Walker Red was what my Greek friend’s Dad drank when they were playing cards.

Bill Lark at Lark Distillery and Patrick Maguire at Sullivan’s Cove were already in the market, selling amazing whisky that was starting to get attention around the world. So, I always knew we could make great whisky in Australia.

That was my world of whisky. It was almost by accident that I went into the Lark Distillery and saw all these single malts on the back bar. That was the moment. It was like a light switched on and I went, “Wow, I can’t believe the similarities (between this and craft beer production).”

eW: For any readers looking to potentially explore their own craft ventures, what would be your advice?

DV: Be patient. But more importantly, you need to have real clarity about what the vision for the business is and why you’re doing it.

I don’t think I’d be speaking out of line to say that even $90AUD, which is what Starward costs, is a lot of money for a whisky. I think what you want to do is actually go to a bar, perhaps talk to bartenders that have got a range of Australian whiskies and explore the category through flights. Use those bartenders as a fountain of knowledge that can help you navigate what flavours you like and don’t like.

Because there will be moments through the whole process where it’s going to be really tough. We’ve gone through some pretty white-knuckled moments in our history, and what really kept the team going through those periods of time was a real clear vision and purpose for the brand and the whisky. It serves as your North Star, without being clichéd. The guiding principles of what you’re trying to do will come back and help you get through those difficult times.

The challenge for Australian whisky, really, is the availability of stock. The hard part is you might like a whisky that isn’t necessarily available anymore, and so we always strive to be as consistent and accessible as possible.

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eW: As a dynamic industry, whisky is always looking ahead. What do you see as the future of Australian whisky?

eW: What’s new on the horizon for Starward? Are there any new releases or events coming up?

To me it’s mainly to be the approachable, affordable Australian whisky that you can share with friends. We’re not too concerned if it’s used in a cocktail or not – we’re not precious about how it is used. I’m really excited about the opportunity for us to broaden the audience of whisky, because it is more approachable and carries those wine flavours, which gives it something different and exciting in comparison to the whiskies that come through from the Old World. I think for us, it’s about taking Starward to the world and making sure every self-respecting back bar has a bottle of it on the shelf to talk about why Australian whisky is interesting.

It’s pretty straightforward: it’s Australian whisky in Australian wine barrels. You can’t be any more clearly Australian than that. All of the ingredients that we use for Starward are, basically, a day’s drive away from the distillery.

DV: I think the future is really bright. I’m confident that between the likes of the Tasmanian distilleries, Limeburners on the west coast, Archie Rose in Sydney and ourselves, that there’s the potential for Australian whisky to be the next Japanese whisky.

DV: We’ve been talking about this a lot, actually. Generally, in terms of, ‘Why is Australian whisky so interesting?’ compared to bourbon and Scotch. I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that all of Australia’s brands were created by living people who have a story to tell about why they’ve gone down this journey. We all make great whisky, and so does the Old World, so it’s not quality. You’re not going to live long on a shelf if you don’t have quality, and that’s no different between Old and New World. It’s really about the ability to engage the consumer with a really interesting story about why you’re making whisky. Then the second part, I think, is obviously flavour. All of the whiskies that we make in Australia are flavour forward, and celebrate the place that they’re made.

This is a bit self-serving, but one of the reasons I started the distillery was to be that first rung on the ladder of Australian whiskies.

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eW: What advice would you give to a consumer who is looking to approach the whisky category, but doesn’t know where to DV:begin?

DV: We’ve just launched our first bottled cocktail, which is really an opportunity to get whisky on the dinner table and shared with friends, and we’re really excited about that. They’re limited releases. This is the first in a series of cocktails we’re going to launch, so in the New Year, we’ll have a new one coming out which is pretty exciting. The bottled cocktail is a pretty important part of that whole idea of making whisky more approachable and accessible.

eW: What do you think sets Australian whisky apart from the Old World whiskies?

It was about saying, “How do we get it out of the special occasion cabinet into the sharing cabinet?” I think this is something Starward has led the way on. It wouldn’t be necessarily making great Australian whisky – we’ve been doing that for a long time. It’s probably us being very passionate about moving whisky into the sharing cabinet and making it more accessible.

eW: What about Starward makes it uniquely DV:Australian?

If you compare that to, say, Scotch whisky, they source their barrels from Spain, and Portugal and America, and barley is grown all throughout Scotland and Europe. So, from our point of view, Starward is more Australian than Scotch is Scottish. It’s distinctly Australian because we’re using those red wine barrels, and very few distilleries around the world mature their whisky from the day it’s made in red wine casks.

eW: What is your ongoing vision for DV:Starward?

WORDS CHRIS MIDDLETON This emergent whisky diversity will allow some distilleries to find niches to survive and commercially grow, while the whisky market remains buoyant. Whether a distillery started with the premise of making ‘malts like Scotland’, ‘bourbon-style mashes’, ‘American ryes’ or venturing into more experimental whisky routes, many have found a place within the market. The impact of our local raw materials, internal processes and environmental conditions have gradually started to influence the range of styles and flavours. Because whisky is one of the most globally traded consumer commodities, to be commercially viable brands must deliver superior quality, value-for-money and brand distinctiveness. The revival and survival of the Australian whisky industry also depends on these business imperatives. Ideally, Australian whisky brands need to stand apart from the international competition, with meaningful differences to attract drinkers. The liquid diversity emerging across the country indicates the industry is off to a good start in a long race.

VARIETY MAKES AUSTRALIAN WHISKIES DIFFERENT

DIFFERENTIATE OR DIE

There is no such person as the ‘average’ Australian. We’re individuals differentiated by gender, age, ethnicity, size, education, etc. Similarly, whiskies made in Australia are differentiated by grains, wood, age, size, location, etc. This variety makes our whisky landscape diverse and exciting.

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Whisky distilleries are scattered across all states and operate in every type of climate: tropical North Queensland to cool Tasmania, and even the hot, dry inland, as well as micro-climates in every capital city, except Darwin. They distil all kinds of grain, including rye, oats, rice, wheat, barley and corn, with most of the grain locally grown. Most distilleries brew their own wash, some contract it from local breweries. Similarly, when it comes to casks there also a wide variety of different types and sizes, from new virgin oak containers, ex-bourbon, ex-rum and ex-wine, to 80-year-old fortified ex-wine casks, some of the oldest in the world. Colloquial markers or small discernible divergences are evident in Australian production techniques, which could impact finished whiskies. Whether any of these will coalesce into charming and distinctive styles, only time and investment will tell. As nano-distilleries* continue to mushroom and larger enterprises are undertaking substantial investments to increase capacity, this potential exists. At present, subtle differences in flavour vectors can be attributed to the influences of local ingredients, processes, equipment and environmental conditions. These diverse inflexion points are present in five manufacturing areas.

GRAIN: As mentioned earlier, there has been much experimentation with different grain species and varieties, using different malting specifications. Some smoke the grain with local peat and hardwoods, others mash with mixed grain. There’s whisky made from oats, corn, corn/rye/barley and rye whisky. The majority of whisky made in Australia uses 100 per cent Australian malted barley. This barley originates from numerous local hybrids bred for local cultivating conditions, primarily to serve the beer industry and exports. The large maltsters practice differing germinating and kilning procedures which affects colour, flavour, aroma and fermentability. Amongst the local barley varieties, there are vast regional choices (Scope, La Trobe and Planet, etc.) and the different malting specifications (pilsner, ale, amber, etc.) offering distilleries much scope to formulate subtle differences in their wash.

FERMENTATION: Distillers can select from an international shopping list of proprietary yeast strains from wine and ales to add to the high-yielding distiller’s yeast. Yeast strains and fermenting conditions result in different esters and compounds in the beer before distillation.

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Of the two hundred odd distilleries in Australia, nearly half of them make whisky. For many, it’s part of a broader spirits portfolio including gin, vodka, rum and liqueurs. A few distil hundreds of thousands of litres, most a few thousand or only a few hundred litres a year. There’s much diversity in size and capacity. Today, there are over forty local whisky labels, but less than a dozen are found in leading off-premise chains. There’s also a wide variety of liquid quality and in price points. A few are competitively priced; most are over-priced. It’s a cost of entry penalty small distillers face, having no trading access to any cost-efficiencies from grain to bottle. Some are remarkably good whiskies, and there are some prettty poor whiskies too.

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Others mature in cool subterranean sites, with minimising variability allowing estification and complexity to emerge slowly over time.

CASKS: The oak cask has the most significant impact on whisky’s flavour. Distillers exercise a range of options from cask size to wood programs. What the cask previously held in its first use for maturation directly affects the finished product. Many craft distillers rely on smaller capacities (50, 100 and 150 litres) to expedite maturation to meet Australia’s twoyears minimum in wood. However, reducing the liquid to wood ratios risks extracting oaky unbalanced whiskies. Established distilleries have built up more in-depth inventories.

MATURATION: There’s no such thing as perfect climate to mature whisky. Just different climates for different whiskies. Over time, distillers learn to shape their whisky styles, from their new-make to the best wood policies, to their local climate and their storage conditions.

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Australia’s thriving wine industry provides tawny, apera, muscat and wine casks to ‘Australianise’ the whiskies. Wine hogsheads, as well as ex-bourbon barrels, rum barriques and/or new virgin casks, add to this extensive flavour palette. Other maturation methods use wood inserts, paxarette and experimental staves from local hardwoods. When the different grain mashes, yeasts and distilling plant get added to the differing wood policies; the sensory matrix explodes geometrically. The challenge, as brands develop, is to market a consistent whisky. Otherwise, the variability for consumers means unpredictability post-purchase.

The current whisky diversity represents an exciting chapter in Australia’s 21st-century whisky redux, and brands that have meaningful differences will be written into this story.

Even entry proof of the spirit to cask and other maturation factors can be adjusted to manipulate flavour outcomes. The hotter temperatures across Australia draws the whisky into the stave wood more aggressively than cooler climates. In metal warehouses during heat waves, the temperature can reach 60°C at roof level. In hotter, drier climate means most distillers can eliminate years of ageing, as Mother Nature extracts rich flavours faster, while evaporating more water than ethanol.

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STILLS: Most are full copper, while a few have stainless steel, which affects the flavour profile. When it comes to still shapes, size and design, it is a multinational affair. Most are variations on the traditional pots still, although their shapes vary considerably from onions to charentias alembics, flattops to boil balls, or Moorish Iberians to pinched conical shapes.

There are also small column stills, columnpot hybrids, retorts and doublers. Six local still fabrications serve growing craft distillers; others are supplied from Germany, Britain, America, Italy, Spain, China, Czech Republic and Portugal. Their engineering design and methods of operation effect reflux, heating and speed, while double batch or triple distillations influences the structure of the final distillate.

As well as different yeasts, fermenting techniques also vary. Tasmanian distillers often favour long fermentations where spent yeast cells are not captured in the wash, making for a lighter spirit. A dozen or more distilleries are practising the American sour mash method, setting aside a percentage of spent distiller’s wash for the next ferment. Yeasts and fermentation methodologies add incrementally to the diversity of flavour variations in the wash before distillation.

Here again, these subtle variations in new-make distillate will influence the finished whisky after spending years in wood.

NEW LIFE IN DEATH USES FOR EX-WHISKY BARRELS

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INGENIOUS

connoisseur for long enough about the spirit they love and you’ll see the almost reverent way they regard the humble barrel. The more you listen and learn, the more this esteem makes sense, for it’s in the barrel that spirit becomes whisky as we know it – full of flavour, viscosity and subtle character. The barrel is the mother of whisky, holding and nurturing the spirit until it’s ready to face the big wide world. And like any mother, its influence on its progeny is immense.

WORDS STEPHANIE AIKINS With such respect and interest held in their lives, it seems to many almost sacrilege to simply discard the barrel in death. To go from being a hotly sought after resource to a pile of old oak seems dismissive and wasteful, and that’s where human innovation has come into play. We live in a world where sustainability forms the basis of all we do, while the desire for products that feel personalised and unique to us drives our buying habits. The result of these intertwining phenomena is that the barrel can be re-imagined into a seemingly endless list of decorations, tools and accoutrements. The adaptation and re-use of barrels isn’t a new concept, however. In fact it links to a decades old tradition within the industry that stretches across continents, whisky styles and distilleries. In an attempt to create work for coopers and loggers during the Great Depression, the American government mandated in 1938 that bourbon could only be aged in new barrels. Keep in mind though, the big players like Brown-Forman were already doing this, as the fewer times a barrel is used the more flavour it imparts to the spirit. The war effort during WWII may have halted the distillation of new whiskeys but it didn’t stop consumers from drinking the already matured barrel-aged expressions, resulting in a huge surplus of used barrels once the war came to an end. Perhaps it was a cost effective choice for war-ravaged British producers, but Scottish and Irish whisk(e)y makers were more than happy to take the once-used barrels off the Americans’ hands. These barrels took with them about four to five per cent of spirit that had been aged in their interiors, which added a slight desirable hint of bourbon flavour to the Scottish and Irish Thereexpressions.arecertain sought after characteristics based on which a Scottish or Irish whisk(e)y maker will choose a barrel. The type of oak used, the amount of roasting or charring of the barrel and the spirit that has sat in it are

all important factors when choosing a barrel. In a happy coincidence, the traditional American Oak ex-bourbon barrels, or Quercus Alba, were not only relatively cheap and plentiful in the mid-20th century, but were found to instil delicate woody characteristics in the whisky and promote subtle notes of vanilla and sweet coconut due to the caramelisation of the lignin and wood sugars. Hence these industries became largely dependent on U.S. barrel

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Duringimports.thesame time period, 500 litre European oak butts used to transport sherry from Spain to the UK were also being re-used as a vessel for aging whisky. It was found the remnants of sherry absorbed into the wood enhanced the dried fruit and nutty characteristics in the whisky. As 80 per cent of a whisky’s final flavour comes from the oak cask it rests in, it’s common practice nowadays to use multiple types of oak to mature a spirit. Generally the first cask used is the American oak ex-bourb on barrel, which gives the whisky a good base before European oak, previously used to mature rum, cognac, oloroso sherry, fortified wines like port or madeira, or wines such as pinot noir or Bordeaux reds, rounds out the flavours. Beer casks like former stout or IPA barrels are also growing in popularity.

Now they say necessity is the mother of invention, but it’s certainly true that sentimentality has spawned its fair share of ingenuity. It’s for the sake of sentimentality that we’ve seen ‘dead’ whisky barrels transformed into some pretty quirky keepsakes.

What unites these seemingly eclectic uses for the modest whisky barrel is the dedication of time and effort to creating some truly unique and beautiful. That reverence for the barrel throughout its many stages of life is expressed through our desire to fashion it in ‘death’ into something timeless and part of our every day.

Even on home soil, Starward whisky has worked with Cut Throat Knives to create an extremely limited edition knife carved from ex-barrel staves. Although each knife was priced at $730AUD and only five were made, that didn’t stop them from selling out in only four minutes.

For those bourbon barrels that don’t make it to Bonnie Scotland or the Emerald Isle, the cycle of re-purposing will see them sent off to Mexico for aging tequila or the Caribbean to be filled with rum. Many breweries have also jumped on board, requesting ex-bourbon barrels to age their craft beer. A quick ‘Google’ will bring up the array of ‘whisky barrel flavoured’ food products now available, from coffee, tea and vanilla, to maple syrup and even hot sauce. When at one point a large player like Wild Turkey was sitting on 30,000 barrels they couldn’t give away, now an ex-bourbon barrel will cost about $60-$70 US and is in hot However,demand.just as all good things come to an end, so the barrel eventually loses its ability to impart flavour. At this stage, it was once thought there was little left to do than ship the barrel off to landfill, leaving it to age until its rusted metal hoops fell off and its staves turned to dust; that or convert them into somewhat quaint garden features or kitsch bar tables.

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In 2016, New Zealand bartender Andrew Brown and local timepiece makers, Roys Road Watches, recycled old Glenfiddich casks into a rather elegant watch. In the same year, Glenmorangie teamed up with renowned spectacles maker, Finlay & Co., to make a set of sunglasses made from the same American oak used to age the Scotch. This isn’t the Highland distiller’s only unorthodox reuse of its barrels, with it also partnering with leading bicycle

manufacturer Renovo in 2017 to create a bike entirely made of whisky casks.

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Home to the brand since 2016, the 3,500 square metre Port Melbourne warehouse offers visitors an insight into Staward’s distillation and unique maturation processes through its open-plan design. Guests can see first-hand the distillation equipment and the 2,500 barrels, mainly apera casks and wine casks, maturing some 120,000 litres of Uponspirit.entering, there is an unexpected warmth to the bar space, with a large, indoor tree acting as the focal point of the room. The raw and polished timber fixtures and couches are both welcoming and stylish, while the large open bar invites guests to sit down, relax and take a dram or two. As well as Starward’s popular solera and wine cask aged whiskies, the bar serves limited edition expressions from the New World Projects experimental series, available only at the distillery. If taking your whisky neat doesn’t tickle your fancy, there is also a range of cocktails on offer. There is a small menu of cheese and charcuterie boards for those feeling a little peckish. The distillery hosts a range of tours and masterclasses on weekends, so as not to impact on the distillery processes. On the Starward Whisky Distillery Tour, guests are afforded an overview of the whiskies’ production, from mashing in, to fermentation, distillation and ageing the single malt spirit. The experience then ends with a tasting of two 15ml pours of Starward expressions. A more in-depth insight into the production processes and the principles behind Starward is offered in the Starward Whisky Masterclasses. Visitors will learn about the story and vision for the brand’s future, as well as participate in a distillery tour that concludes with an extensive discussion over five samples from the core products and experimental projects ranges. Guests will also have the opportunity to bottle their own mini-bottle of Starward whisky straight from the barrel to include in their takeaway bag of Starward merchandise. Private tours can also be arranged for small or large groups.

STARWARD WHISKY DISTILLERY Australian distiller Starward is clear and concise with its premise.

“We offer the world of modern whisky, unshackled from tradition,” the brand boldly states on its website. It’s an idea that has proved very successful for the self-proclaimed New World distillers, and one that is reflected in its industrial-chic distillery.

ADDRESS: 50 Bertie Street, Port Melbourne VIC 3207 T: 03 9005 4420 W: starward.com.au OPENING HOURS: Thursdays: 6pm-10pm Fridays and Saturdays: 12pm-10pm Sundays: 12pm-8pm TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: Starward Whisky Distillery Tour: $10pp, 1hr. online bookings. Friday-Sunday: Various times Starward Whisky Masterclasses: $120pp, 2hr. Online bookings. Saturdays & Sundays: 11:30am Private tours: Contact Nicola via events@starward.com.au

WORDS CHARLES MACLEAN

LESSONS FROM HISTORY

The first boom period was the decade following the passing of the Excise Act 1823. The Act made it possible for small distillers to make good whisky and sell it at a reasonable price, which laid the foundations of the modern whisky industry. Between 1824 and 1834 no less than 260 distillers took out licenses. Many had previously been distilling outside the law; all were small operations, and most businesses failed after only a few years. Then came ‘The Hungry Forties’, presaged by poor harvests in the late 1830s and compounded by the terrible potato blight, which caused the death of millions in Ireland and Scotland, followed by outbreaks of cholera and typhus and by a general recession in many countries. Consumption of Scotch dropped by nearly 20 per cent [2.6 million litres of pure alcohol (LPA)], and there were many bankruptcies within the whisky trade. But 20 distilleries established during the decade are still in production.

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Theexploredrinks.comScotchwhisky industry is currently experiencing a period of growth unprecedented in its entire history, founded upon anticipated global sales over the coming decades. But have the actuaries, and market forecasters got their sums right? In this article, I will consider some of the factors which are likely to influence the fortunes of Scotch in the coming years.

The market for Scotch whisky has always been cyclical. The industry has expanded capacity to meet demand, then contracted as demand falters. There have been three significant eras of expansion, each of which has resulted in over-production, owing to a collapse in demand mainly caused by factors beyond the industry’s control.

In his annual Scotch Whisky Industry Review, leading analyst Alan S. Gray includes a lengthy section titled ‘Problems Facing the Industry’. The most recent edition (2016) lists over twenty such ‘problems’. So what follows is by no means exhaustive! As a historian, I will begin by looking at the past.

The second period of dramatic expansion was during the 1890s when 40 new distilleries were commissioned, many of them built by blending houses to supply malt for their burgeoning trade. 19 of these are still in operation. There were 161 working distilleries

SCOTCH WHISKY THE FUTURE FOR

The third boom era was between 1955 and 1975, during which 24 new distilleries were commissioned and many more expanded and modernised. All but six of these are still in production. The reasons for the rapid growth of distilling in the 1960s lie in the relaxation of restrictions on production. The United States market, which had taken the bulk of exports since the end of the war, showed a phenomenal rate of expansion. In 1960, American imports were 54 million LPA; by 1968 they were 150 million LPA. It was not to last. The first oil crisis (1973) and the end of the Vietnam War (1975), which had stimulated the US market, combined with a general economic recession in the West and a move away from brown spirits in favour of vodka, white rum and wine to make trading difficult for Scotch whisky. A further severe global recession in the early 1980s exacerbated the problem. The spectre of over-production hovered over the industry: between 1960 and 1980 output had more than doubled (to 260 million LPA), and the amount of whisky under bond had quadrupled to well over 2.5 billion LPA. In 1981 and 1986, 29 distilleries were taken out of production; 18 of them have remained closed - although three, Brora, Rosebank and Port Ellen, are currently being revived.

EXPANDING CAPACITY

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exploredrinks.com in 1899, which saw the annual increase in stock rise from just under 5.2 million LPA in 1891-2 to 35 million LPA 1897-98. By 1900, stocks under bond were massively out of proportion to demand, and between 1900 and 1906 a variety of factors combined to destroy confidence in Scotch– including an economic downturn, changes in fashion, price-cutting and increased taxation.

The current whisky boom eclipses these boom periods. Never has so much been invested in expanding production. 32 new distilleries opened between 2004 and 2017. At least five more will open in 2018, including Macallan II, Lagg and Ardnahoe, with a combined capacity to produce slightly over 73 million LPA a year. 12 of these distilleries are small (under 200,000 LPA), 11 are medium-sized (200-750,000 LPA), but nine are capable of producing in excess of one million LPA per annum.

I know of a further 25 distilleries which are either proposed or under construction, plus the three which are being revived. It goes without saying that ancillary facilities –warehousing, bottling plants, cooperages and bio-energy plants – have also been increased or upgraded. In addition to these new distilleries, many well-known distilleries have been substantially expanded. Several have doubled capacity, and three - The Glenlivet, Glenfiddich and The Macallan – are building massive new distilleries on site, capable of producing 32 million, around 20 million (yet to be divulged) and 17 million LPA per annum respectively. Over the past ten years, malt whisky production capacity has increased by a staggering 60 per cent, from 239 million LPA in 2007 to 383 million LPA in 2017. Of course, not all distilleries operate at capacity every year, as annual output is based on anticipated future requirements.

The optimism manifested by this increase in capacity is based upon the anticipated global demand for Scotch whisky over the coming

88 exploredrinks.com decades – a remarkably tricky exercise, vulnerable to factors beyond the industry’s control, including the global economy and international politics, not to mention sale of alcohol regulations, fiscal arrangements and fashion in over two hundred markets.

GLOBAL COMPETITION

The answer may well be ‘yes’ to start with –malt whisky drinkers, like wine drinkers, are pluralist (they don’t stick rigidly to one brand), and they are keen to explore – but will they buy a second bottle…? Furthermore, the problem will be compounded in the not-toodistant future by the growing range of brands and expressions released to the market.

In the USA, the number of Distilled Spirits Permits (DSPs) – the federal permit required

It’s clear that the new distilleries fall into two camps which might be described as ‘craft distilleries’ and ‘mainstream distilleries’, by and large based on size/capacity.

Having said this, it is possible that nontraditional routes to market via online (global) sales will become increasingly important for smaller producers. We shall see.

Scotch is facing stiff competition from non-Scotch whiskies/whiskeys, and this will increase in the years to come.

The vast increase in capacity mentioned above is paralleled in many countries. The statistics below relate to ‘The Big Four’ nonScotch producers, but there are many other countries all over the world distilling whisky for the first time.

The problem is finding reliable agents and distributors in every market the brand owner wants to operate in, and keeping them supplied with product if the brand does well. From the distributors’ perspective, the challenge is to persuade retailers to stock new and unknown brands while the retailer protests, “In order to stock your new malt, I must remove an existing malt. Am I more likely to sell yours than a well-known brand?”

Let’s hope the marketers have their projections right and their crystal balls well polished.

ROUTES TO MARKET

The larger units - some built by leading whisky companies (Diageo, Pernod Ricard, Edrington, William Grant & Sons), some by well-funded new enterprises controlled by people with long experience in the whisky industry - will mainly follow the traditional Scotch whisky industry practise of trading the majority of their spirit/whisky for blending purposes. This route to market is useful, so long as the global market for blended Scotch is buoyant. But although the most recent figures are encouraging, it has been unsteady over the past ten years.

The smaller distilleries will rely on bottling and selling their makes as single malts. On the one hand, global sales of malt whisky have steadily increased over the past ten years; on the other, the difficulties of bringing their products to market cannot be Manyunder-estimated.smallerdistillers haved mentioned this as being the single greatest hurdle –more significant than finding the investment for building a new distillery and funding production for at least three years before the spirit can be named ‘Scotch’. Anthony Wills, owner of Kilchoman Distillery on Islay with a current capacity of 240,000 LPA, estimates that the cost of energy, raw materials, wood and the production staff of five, is around £3,000 a day. But this is only the beginning of the story.

Parallels might be drawn with the current explosion in gin brands.

exploredrinks.com 89 to operate a distillery lawfully – has grown from below 100 in 2007, to 560 in 2010, to 1,825 in 2016. In 2015 alone, almost 400 DSPs were issued, a rate of more than one per day. Since 2016, more than 1,000 craft distilleries have been operating in the United States - an industry that was virtually non-existent 15 years ago. The number of Japanese distilleries has gone from eight to 20 since 2010, while the total export value of Japanese whisky has increased nearly tenfold from 1.07 billion yen (about $10 million AUD) in 2006 to 10.378 billion yen (more than $100 million AUD) in 2015. Ireland grew from five to 18 distilleries between 2013 and 2017, with a further 16 proposed. Not all are small: William Grant’s Tullamore Distillery has a capacity of 3.6 million LPA and produces both malt and grain spirits. Between 2008 and 2016, sales of Irish whiskey doubled (4.4 million cases to 8.7 million 9-litres cases in 2016) with sales projected to exceed 12 million cases by 2020, and 24 million by 2030. My friend, Davin de Kergommeaux, Canada’s leading whisky writer, tells me: “Canada’s eight major whisky distilleries have been joined by over 100 micro-distilleries, at least half of which are beginning to make whisky. Together, these new entrants produced less than 0.1 per cent of the 22.5 million cases of whisky bottled in 2016. This will increase slightly as new producers’ stocks begin to mature. Canada consumes just 15 per cent of its production at home, exporting the rest to over 155 countries. Overall, distilling contributes $5.8 billion annually to Canada’s gross domestic product.”

And let us not forget Australia, where another learned friend and whisky expert, Chris Middleton, informs me: “Australia has also now passed 100 distilleries too, some of which include whisky as part of their spirits portfolio - maybe only a cask or two made during the year. Over 90 per cent are small nano-distillers (under 25,000 LPA capacity). By my calculations, nearly 80 per cent of Australia’s whisky is produced by the top seven distilleries.”

REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL Whisky is now being made in significant quantities all over the world, and the best of the makes are high quality. They are also designed to be different to Scotch, and are certainly not an imitation. But are these whiskies a serious threat to Scotch? Scotch, especially Scotch malt, offers a far broader range of ages, flavours and styles than non-Scotch and, because of the rigorous legal definition, provides a more consistent

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In addition to ‘The Big Four’ non-Scotch producers, mention must be made of India, the largest producer and consumer in the world: seven out of the top ten largest selling brands by volume are Indian. However, most Indian whisky is not technically ‘whisky’ since the base material is molasses, not cereal grains. But it should be remembered that, while the Scotch whisky industry cannot afford to be complacent, Scotch currently sells three times more than its nearest rival.

The provenance and romantic history of Scotch whisky are appealing: Scotland –‘le pays Sauvage’, ‘the land of mist and mountains, clans and castles’ - is intriguing. It is also perfect for the long maturation of whisky. Scotch whisky has cachet and a story to tell. A fellow whisky writer summed it up for me: “When you buy a bottle of Scotch, you buy a hell of a lot more than ‘liquor in a bottle’. You’re buying history, craft, time and tradition – and the blood of one small nation.”

90 exploredrinks.com product. Simple in essence, it is also the most complex spirit known to man, organoleptically.

Although often now assisted by technology, the craft skills developed over very many years and generations concerning the process, maturation and blending are vital to creating flavour, while the scientific bases of flavour continue to be investigated - and, happily, continue to be elusive. The industry is continually exploring ways to develop attractive flavours while respecting the very tight legal definition of ‘Scotch’, such as yeast and barley varieties, longer fermentation, stills operation and wood finishing.

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Somewhat arrogantly - but with justification - the Scotch whisky industry’s view is that ‘all roads lead to Scotch’. They embrace and support non-Scotch distillers, in the knowledge that once consumers acquire a taste for whisky, they are sure to explore Scotch whisky – and hopefully to settle there!

SO, AS WE PEER INTO OUR CRYSTAL BALLS. Will demand continue to grow to meet supply? Or are we filling a lake of whisky, surplus to requirements, as happened in the early 1980s? And if we are creating a surplus in the short term, will this increase its value in years to come? Those companies which still have stocks of whisky from the previous ‘whisky loch’ - now at 30-40 years old - can sell them for eye-watering prices… Although export figures have gone up and down over the past ten years, the overall trend is up, with 2017 being a record year for sales. With good reason, the Scotch whisky industry has high hopes for China, where Diageo is running a major, education-based, generic promotion of ‘whisky’. Exports to Singapore were up 29.4 per cent by value in 2017, from where most whisky is shipped to China. Exports to Latvia, an entrepot for Russia, were up 105 per cent by value last year. Mexico and Brazil currently stand fourth and fifth in the league of ‘best-sellers of blended Scotch by Thevolume’.sheergeographical spread of the markets for Scotch offers a degree of protection if one market fails – the eggs are distributed in many baskets. Here are some examples of by value export figures from 2017: USA +7.7 per cent, South Africa +20.7 per cent, France +2.1 per cent, Germany +13.5 per cent, Spain +5.2 per cent...

There will be some casualties among the recently founded malt whisky distilleries, but is it better to hazard over-production now, rather than miss (global) opportunities later? The highly-paid bean-counters and actuaries say ‘yes’ and this demonstrates great confidence in the future of Scotch.

The global whisky market is driven by the global economy, and individual markets by local economies. In other words, consumers must have sufficient disposable income to afford it. Other factors include duty and other fiscal imposts and regulations (not to mention prohibition in certain markets), availability, fashion, changing lifestyles (including health concerns) and competition from other alcoholic (and now non-alcoholic) drinks.

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92 exploredrinks.com DUFFTOWN “Rome was built on seven hills, Dufftown stands on seven stills.” ‘THE MALT WHISKY CAPITAL OF THE WORLD’

And why limit your gaze, when within a wee uber fare there are many of whisky’s greatest names, tucked in glens around almost every corner. Notably, just down the road is The Macallan’s new stunning distillery, a 130 million pound investment and a truly breath-taking visitor experience.

Also highly recommended to visit are the visitors centres at The Glenlivet, Cardhu, Aberlour, Glen Grant, Longmorn and BenRiach – and the list goes on and on. The regional map is an all-star cast of single malts, perhaps only rivalled by the Islay peated malt brigade on the west coast.

Dufftown is 80 kilometres up the road from Aberdeen (head north-west on the A96 sign posted to Huntly and Keith), nestled amid the Speyside region and close to the rivers Fiddich and Dullan, from which two of its distilling residents derive their names. The six distilleries in Dufftown are evenly split between William Grant & Sons and Diageo.

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Dufftown is also the home of the ‘Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival’, to be held next between the 2nd and 6th of May, 2019. Timing your visit brings more of the good spirit to you.

While Dufftown lays claim to be the ‘Malt Whisky Capital of the World’, distilling was not its original purpose - having once been the home of returning soldiers from the Napoleonic wars way back in the early 19th century. If its castles and historic symbols you’re after, there is no shortage in and around Dufftown itself. Indeed, Mary Queen of Scots was a frequent visitor to this region, inhabited by the Stewarts, the Douglasses and the Comyns noble families. With castles are a plenty, in the town itself resides the Balvenie Castle, keeping a watchful eye over the Glenfiddich distillery. However, when you’re in the ‘Malt Whisky Capital of the World’ interest hastily turns to the rich distilling heritage that Dufftown prides itself on, and the six remaining distilleries in the town itself (from an original seven). The rhyme of, ‘Rome was built on seven hills, Dufftown stands on seven stills’ captures the spirit (excuse the pun) of the town, which boasts an incredible output of over 40 million litres of whisky per year. That’s over 20,000 litres of whisky per person, with a population of just over 2,000 people.

Dufftown’s first distillery, Mortlach, had a budding master distiller in a chap called William Grant, who struck out on his own and built Glenfiddich in 1886.

The Balvenie, Glenfiddich and Kininvie represent from the WG&S portfolio, while Mortlach, Dufftown and Glendullan complete the impressive array of distilleries. It really is a whisky buff’s Mecca. The town’s four principal roads come together at the central clock tower built in 1839, and originally the site of the local jail.

94 exploredrinks.com 1 Aberlour 2 Allt-a-Bhainne 3 Ardmore 4 Auchroisk 5 Aultmore 6 Ballindalloch 7 Balmenach 8 The Balvenie 9 BenRiach 10 Benrinnes 11 Benromach 12 Braeval 13 Cardhu 14 Cragganmore 15 Craigellachie 16 Dailuaine 17 Dallas Dhu 18 Dalmunach 19 Dufftown 20 Glenallachie 21 Glenburgie 22 Glendullan 23 Glen Elgin 24 Glenfarclas 25 GlenglassaughGlenfiddich 27 Glen Grant 28 Glen Keith 29 The Glenlivet 30 Glenlossie 31 Glen Moray 32 The Glenrothes 33 Glen Spey 34 Glentauchers 35 Inchgower 36 Kininvie 37 Knockando 38 Linkwood 39 Longmorn 40 The Macallan 41 Mannochmore 42 Miltonduff 43 Mortlach 44 Speyburn 45 Speyside 46 The CooperageSpeyside 47 Strathisla 48 Strathmill 49 Tamdhu 50 Tamnavulin 51 Tomintoul 52 Tormore 53 BoortmaltMaltings 54 BurgheadMaltings 55 Crisp GroupMalting 56 Roseisle Distillery and Maltings KINGUSSIE 26 1 Aberlour 2 Allt-a-Bhainne 3 Ardmore 30 Glenlossie 31 Glen Moray 32 The Glenrothes www.spiritofspeyside.com www.distilled.scot � � � + �

“For your trip to Speyside the place to base yourself would be within Dufftown itself. I think a week in the area would be great, though longer if you can.”

VISIT CHARLIE AT THE BALVENIE

CHARLIE METCALFE – BRAND AMBASSADOR, THE BALVENIE Charlie grew up in Speyside, where he developed a love for the region steeped in whisky and rich history. The transition into the industry was a natural progression. Charlie takes great pleasure in talking about whisky and its production with fellow enthusiasts, enjoying nothing more than sharing good drams with whisky lovers. He also revels in guiding the ‘uninitiated’ into the malt whisky world.

MEET THE LOCALS

“There are a few reasons why Dufftown is an amazing place for malt whisky production. One of the main reasons is the huge quantities of good quality spring water that we have in this area.

“If you are visiting the area and want a wee break from distilleries, hill walking to take in Scotland’s natural beauty is a must!!”

“Things to look out for this year is our limited edition celebratory bottling of DoubleWood 25-Year-Old.”

After leaving school, Charlie spent time playing and coaching cricket in Adelaide, South Australia.

“At The Balvenie we still have the five rare crafts of whisky making; from growing barley on our Balvenie farm and still floor malting at the distillery, to maintaining an on site cooperage for all cask repairs and our own coppersmith. Finally, we have David C Stewart MBE with 55 years of experience in the industry.”

ADVICE AUSTRALIANS?VISITINGFOR “When walking around the centre of Dufftown, it’s hard to not get captured by the surrounding distilleries. While Rome was built on seven hills, Dufftown was built on seven stills. The best way to hear about the history and stories of the area is to go to a bar and chat to the locals over a glass of malt whisky.”

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“I loved my time in Oz. I travelled across the country for a year, after which it was time to come home to Bonnie Scotland.”

Matched with the good farming conditions for barley growing and the cool weather conditions in the north of Scotland, this makes for lovely maturation conditions for single malt whisky.”

Using the traditional methods, centuries of craft and the ancient water source, Dufftown Distillery continues to produce one of the smoothest, most approachable whiskies in Scotland. This is achieved through a slow distillation process and by maturing the whiskies in a secret blend of European oak ex-sherry casks and American oak ex-bourbon casks. Malts Master Craig Wilson, who has a PhD in brewing and years of blending experience, curates the perfect combination of casks for a smooth, nutty and sweet liquid that has won awards across the world. In 2006, The Singleton Dufftown 12-Year-Old launched, followed by The Singleton Dufftown 15-Year-Old in 2007 and The Singleton Dufftown 18-Year-Old in 2011.

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THE SINGLETON STORY

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THE DUFFTOWNSINGLETON

In 2006, The Singleton of Glen Ord was launched in Taiwan (the world’s second largest single malt market), where it quickly surpassed the competition to become one of the world’s most sought after single malt products. Spurred by this momentum, The Singleton set its sights on Europe and America but, as with all good things, exquisitely made whisky takes time. In order to uphold the tradition of ‘small batch’ craftsmanship and meet growing demands in new markets, the brand brought the famous Speyside distilleries, namely Dufftown and Glendullan, into The Singleton family.

The brand’s success has come from a combination of drawing on 420 years of collective distilling experience and over 120 years of Malt Master expertise to produce a perfectly balanced single malt. Expertly crafted by some of the best talent in the industry, Master of Malts Maureen Robinson and Malt Masters Keith Law and Craig Wilson, The Singleton has today become the fastest growing brand in the category.

Peter MacKenzie founded the Dufftown Distillery in 1896, at the height of the Scottish whisky boom. Unfortunately, his beginner’s luck quickly ran out. Three years after joining the spirits business, the Scottish whisky market collapsed, forcing distillers to focus on exporting their whisky. MacKenzie and his sons quickly turned their efforts to supplying the then dry American market. Their renown for distilling great quality Scotch whisky allowed them to thrive throughout America’s Prohibition Theera. distillery is, of course, named after the famous town, Dufftown. Dufftown sits at the heart of the Speyside region – the most famous Scotch region in the world. As a credit to the location, characterised by rich soil and rivers, Dufftown is home to many famous distilleries.

In the late 19th century, several distilleries were competing for scarce water sources. Legend has it that the stream from an artesian spring called Jock’s Well, situated high in the Conval Hills, was on multiple occasions diverted by rival distillery managers in the middle of the night to service their productions. Today, Dufftown Distillery still draws water from that same source.

Starting work at The Balvenie distillery at the age of just 17, David C. Stewart MBE remains one of the best-loved and most respected craftsmen in the business. David began a 10-year apprenticeship when he started at the distillery, and during this time he mastered the skills of nosing and creating quality single malt Scotch whisky. David was appointed The Balvenie Malt Master in 1974 and has held that position ever since.

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DAVID C. STEWART MBE

WHISKY ROYALTY

THE LONGEST SERVING MALT MASTER IN THE SCOTCH WHISKY INDUSTRY

Most recently, David has created The Balvenie DCS Compendium, a collection of 25 casks from five different decades of Balvenie history. Each cask illustrates the distillery’s character, and how the characteristics of The Balvenie develop over time.

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It’s been a busy last couple of years for David: in July 2016 he was awarded an MBE, Member of the Order of the British Empire, by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for services to the Scotch whisky industry and the following year, in September 2017, he celebrated his 55th year with the company. Over his career, David has developed an award-winning range of single malt whiskies, which have earned him some of the industry’s top accolades. During his time, he’s helped independent, family-owned William Grant & Sons become Distiller of the Year an unprecedented five times at the International Spirits Challenge (ISC), four times at the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC) and, for the first time, at the World Whiskies Awards in 2011. There are just a few Scotch whisky malt masters in the world and as The Balvenie Malt Master, David requires specialist skills to ensure quality and consistency across the range of whiskies. His passion for retaining tradition, as well as championing experimentation, makes The Balvenie a refined and distinguished single malt, that is as wellloved among newer whisky enthusiasts as it is among seasoned aficionados. Well-known in the industry for his desire to avoid the limelight, David has been widely recognised by his peers. He was awarded the Grand Prix of Gastronomy by the British Academy of Gastronomes in 2005, as well as conferred a lifetime achievement award by the International Wine & Spirit Competition (2005). He was named Whisky Magazine’s Malt Advocate in 2007, and an Icon of Scotch Whisky in Another2009. of David’s key achievements as The Balvenie Malt Master, aside from his MBE, includes the development of double cask maturation in the 1980s, unheard of at the time. These days, this is an established technique referred to as ‘finishing’, and widely enjoyed in The Balvenie DoubleWood 12-Year-Old and The Balvenie DoubleWood 12-Year-Old, 14-Year-Old and the 17-Year-Old His spirit of experimentation also led him to create the ground-breaking Islay Cask 17-Year-Old in 2001, which paved the way for a series of successful expressions, such as The Balvenie PortWood 21-Year-Old and The Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14-Year-Old. In this way, he has pushed the boundaries of The Balvenie’s traditional place in the world of single malt Scotch whisky.

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David’s unrivalled expertise has been displayed in the Single Barrel Range, which includes three expressions - Single Barrel First Fill 12-YearOld, Single Barrel Sherry Cask 15-Year-Old and Single Barrel Traditional Oak 25-Year-Old.

David’s dedication to his craft, coupled with his modest, unassuming manner, has made him one of the best-loved and well-respected figures in the Scotch whisky industry. He continues to work with the skilled teams of craftsmen at The Balvenie Distillery in Dufftown, Speyside, Scotland.

Craft Barley growing on Balvenie Mains Farm

THE BALVENIE

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of Glenfiddich are the remains of a famous old Scottish fortress: Balvenie Castle. Originally constructed in the 12th century, the castle has played host to inhabitants such as Robert the Bruce and Mary Queen of Scots. The ruins now keep watch over some of the finest distilleries in Speyside, for it was here that William Grant created the distillery that would become Balvenie. Every distillery will proudly trumpet what makes it different, or makes its whiskies superior to others. The Balvenie has the advantage of being able to identify a number of factors that, in combination, only they offer. They describe it as the ‘Five Rare Crafts’ of malt whisky. Others may offer some of these ‘Crafts’, but no other distillery can claim to offer all five. The barley for their whiskies comes from their own adjoining farm. It provides a means of maintaining quality throughout the process. They also add complexity to the taste by malting their own barley in the traditional method. The Balvenie Distillery has the last active floor maltings to be found in the Scottish Highlands. Their own coppersmiths maintain the stills, and they still have their own team of coopers, working on the principle that casks are vital to ensuring every bottle of The Balvenie offers the traditional honeyed flavours associated with their whiskies. Having their own team is the best way to guarantee this. Finally, they look to the expertise and experience of their Malt Master, David Stewart. They have come a very long way from a crumbling castle, to be recognised as one of the great Speyside malt whisky distilleries. ADDRESS: Balvenie Maltings, Dufftown, Scotland T: +44 (0) 1340 822 210 W: www.thebalvenie.com Visit: Book in advance

The success of David’s trials led to the release of The Balvenie Classic in 1983. Buoyed by the response this garnered, in 1993 The Balvenie released DoubleWood Aged 12 Years, a whisky that begins its journey in traditional whisky casks for 12 years, before being transferred into Spanish sherry oak for a further nine months for final maturation. This adds a layer of depth and fullness not to be obtained from other maturation Commentingmethods.ontheanniversary,

The team at The Balvenie has been making their signature DoubleWood 12-Year-Old for a quarter of a century; a landmark that has instigated a yearlong celebration at The Balvenie. In honour of this handcrafted single malt Scotch whisky the Speyside distillery will highlight the pioneering work of Malt Master David C. Stewart MBE, while also paying tribute to the many distillery craftsmen and women who made DoubleWood the expression it is today.

The Balvenie DoubleWood Aged 12 Years traces its origins back to 1982, when David C. Stewart MBE began experimenting with double-cask maturation, or ‘wood finishing’, by transferring 12-YearOld Balvenie into oloroso sherry casks. Now commonplace in whisky production, wood finishing involves taking mature liquid from one cask and finishing it for a number of months in another – a process that further develops its character, flavour and depth.

David says, “DoubleWood’s creation and subsequent success is an achievement of major personal pride for me. It makes me very happy to know that a technique I helped pioneer all those years ago has now become a common practice in the whisky industry. But DoubleWood wouldn’t be the whisky it is today without the hard work and dedication of all the distillery craftsmen who have contributed to its development over the years. The 25th anniversary celebrations give us all a perfect opportunity to come together and raise a dram to this wonderful liquid.”

Turns 25 WHEN YOUR 12 YEAR OLDThe Balvenie Distillery VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS

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The new distillery also signals a large investment in expanding production and improving the tourism experience.

The Easter Elchies Estate has been home to the leading luxury single malt since 1824, and the main house on the label of every Macallan bottle sits at the entrance to the new distillery, as a reminder of the traditions past and expectations of a proud future. Shaped like five grassy knolls, the distillery is unique and quite simply stunning. Despite its size, at first glance, you could be forgiven for missing it, as the design seamlessly integrates the partially underground structure with the rolling hills outside of Aberlour. This striking piece of contemporary design maximises the aesthetic beauty of the building while minimising the visual impact on the Speyside landscape, which has been classified as an ‘Area of Great Landscape Value’.

The first whisky ran through the stills in December last year, and the updated infrastructure will enable The Macallan to increase production by a third if required. The new stills were crafted by Scottish coppersmiths Forsyths, who have been making The Macallan’s distinctive ‘curiously small’ since the 1950s.

Elgin-based Robertson Construction has delivered this sophisticated architectural design, working with 25 contractors to weave together the vision for the new distillery and visitor experience. During construction, up to 400 people specialising in more than 20 different trades were employed on site.

Sixexploredrinks.comyearsago,Edrington revealed its plans to build a new state of the art Macallan distillery and visitor experience. The structure was designed to not only deliver the iconic Speyside distiller greater capacity, but to set the standard and vision that will guide the business through the next century of its history. There’s a lot to live up to, but the senior team at The Macallan remain confident that the newly unveiled building will be a major part of The Macallan’s expansion and enduring legacy. explore WHISKY was lucky enough to get the first ever tour of the new building.

THE MACALLAN UNVEILS ITS TRIUMPH OF STYLE, FUNCTIONALITY AND WORLD-CLASS INNOVATION

GRAND DESIGNS

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The distillery and visitor experience was designed by acclaimed architect, Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners, who were selected to lead the project after an international competition.

Designs on this scale do not come cheap, however, with Edrington investing $900 million in the brand of which the $250 million distillery is the centrepiece. This programme has been implemented to increase investment in the whisky, warehousing, and, particularly, in The Macallan’s signature sherry-seasoned oak casks.

The new distillery and visitor experience is located on the beautiful Easter Elchies Estate, just outside Aberlour in the Speyside region of the Scottish Highlands. An easy hour drive north from Aberdeen, the fresh crisp air and rolling hills signal the rural nature of the Scotch Whisky industry.

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“The Macallan estate truly is a special place; a place we have come to love and respect hugely,” said Graham Stirk, Senior Partner and Lead Architect for Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners. “The vision was always ambitious, but this enabled us to challenge our own thinking to create something so dramatic and awe-inspiring. It has been an honour to play our part in shaping the next chapter for The Macallan.”

• $250m was invested, and 60 new jobs are set to be created During construction, up to 400 people specialising in over 20 different trades were employed on site The project has taken three years and six months to complete (Dec 2014 – May 2018)

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While there were times when amendments needed to be made to the project the business remained wholly committed. A key design feature is the massive floor to ceiling glass wall that separates the bar from the distillery. It offered design and regulatory challenges and tested the business’s commitment to the high standards of the building. The local fire codes require the glass wall to protect the public bar area for a minimum of 2 hours should an accident happen in the distillery. Testing and proving the design was robust required a $540,000 mock-up of the glass wall to be installed and effectively burned down. Alongside this, the undulating timber roof structure proved one of the most complicated timber roofs to assemble in the world, comprising of 380,000 individual components.

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• The roof is one of the most complicated timber structures in the world, comprising 1,800 single beams, 2,500 different roof elements, and 380,000 individual components, almost none of which are equal or the same The new distillery will allow production of The Macallan to increase by approximately a third

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TOUR

ADDRESS: Macallan Distillery, Easter Elchies, Charlestown of Aberlour , Scotland T: +44 1340 871471 W: www.themacallan.com OPENING HOURS: Monday-Saturday: 9:30am-6pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm DETAILS PRICING: The Macallan 6 Pillars Tour £15.00

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“As The Macallan has grown globally it has been very important that we make sure we can sustain demand for this wonderful amber liquid,” said Ken Grier, Creative Director at The Macallan. “We’ve taken exceptional care in making sure that the spirit that is produced in the new distillery is identical to the spirit that we produced in our previous distillery. This is the beginning of a really exciting new chapter in the evolution of this wonderful brand that is The Macallan.” Ian Curle, Chief Executive of Edrington, echoes this excitement. “The unsurpassed quality of The Macallan is in high demand, and we face the future confidently with this new distillery,” he said. “It’s an authentic, abiding, ambitious investment that will match consumer expectations for generations to come. When the doors open on the 2nd of June, we expect this new Macallan enterprise to deliver significant benefits for the tourism industry, Scotch whisky exports, and the economy.” Indeed, it is expected that visitor numbers will double in the first year and continue to rise after that.

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THE NEW DISTILLERY AND VISITOR EXPERIENCE IN NUMBERS:

Colin also travels the world as a Global Ambassador for Chivas, sharing his wealth of knowledge and spreading a unique understanding and appreciation through his exuberant passion for both Scotland, Scotch whisky and Chivas.

Colin puts Chivas’ international success down to its high quality and sublime consistency, stating, “Whisky drinkers all over the world really appreciate the supreme smoothness and generous richness of flavours that make Chivas a truly global icon today”.

COLIN SCOTT

In recognition of Colin’s contribution to the Scotch whisky industry, he was appointed a Master of the Quaich in 2008, having previously been inducted as a Keeper of the Quaich - Scotland’s most prestigious whisky society - in 1998.

A supreme craftsman with a lifelong passion for exceptional whisky, he draws on his own knowledge and inspiration from the Master Blenders before him. He is the guardian of the renowned Chivas Regal signature style, and has recently created compelling new members of the Chivas family – Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old in 1997 and the luxurious Chivas Regal 25-YearOld in 2007.

MEET exploredrinks.com 105 Colin Scott developed an early passion for Scotch whisky, growing up near Orkney distillery. Just as his Grandfather and Father dedicated their lives to the Scotch whisky industry, Colin followed this tradition and joined Chivas in 1973. Here he learned the art of blending under the previous Master Blender Jimmy Lang, and was appointed Master Blender in 1989 on Jimmy’s retirement.

MASTER BLENDER, CHIVAS REGAL WHISKY ROYALTY

As Master Blender for over 23 years, Colin knows the characteristics of each and every whisky in Chivas’ extensive aged inventory.

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Lastly, the Chivas Cellar Tasting offers those passionate about the golden liquid the chance to taste drams drawn straight from the casks in the Chivas Regal cellar, led by an experienced guide.

STRATHISLA DISTILLERY: CHIVAS REGAL

All drams are served at natural cask strength, and include expressions such as a bourbon barrel aged Chivas Regal 12-Year-Old, a hogshead aged Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old and a sherry butt aged Chivas Regal 25-Year-Old.

On the Traditional Tour, guests are introduced to the whisky making process, from distillation through to finished product, while visiting the production areas. They are shown the racks of whisky casks left to age in the traditional dunnage warehouse, and are encouraged to join a tutored tasting of four whiskies. The Chivas Regal Blending Experience sees guests taste a few of Chivas’ special drams and create their own bespoke blend to take home. For the selfprofessed whisky connoisseurs, the Straight from the Cask Tour offers an afternoon of sampling six limited-edition cask strength single malts, exclusively selected from the Chivas Brothers’ Portfolio, along with a trip around the distillery with one of Strathisla’s most experienced guides.

Located in the Speyside region of the Highlands, Strathisla is one of Scotland’s most stunning and remote whisky distilleries. You will find the ‘Heart of Chivas’ surrounded by breathtaking mountain ranges, waterfalls and the raging River Isla, which feeds from the nearby North Sea. Originally established in 1786, Strathisla is the oldest working distillery in the Highlands, having survived both a fire and an explosion in the malt mill during the 1870s to become the success it is today. Chivas Regal offer a number of different tour experiences at the distillery, from a traditional tour through to an intimate cellar tasting.

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exploredrinks.com For those that don’t have space in the itinerary to stop for a full tour, Chivas Regal invite you to stop by for a ‘Fly Dram’ with Strathisla’s knowledgable bartenders. Inspired by the north east Scottish tradition of ‘Fly Cup’, or a quick tea served between meals, the ‘Fly Dram’ is a 10 minute experience where guests are shown three drams, the Strathclyde Single Grain, the Strathisla 12-Year-Old Single Malt and the Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old, and are talked through the shared histories between single malt and the Chivas blends. The tasting also includes a small sweet treat, used to showcase the intricacies of blending flavours. ADDRESS: Strathisla Distillery, Seafield Avenue, Keith AB55 5BS, UK T: +44 1542 783044 W: www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com/strathisla OPENING HOURS: Monday-Sunday: 9:30am-6pm from late spring until 9th November 2018 TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: Traditional Distillery Tour: £15pp, 1hr 30 mins, over 18’s only, online booking. Max 14 people. Chivas Regal Blending Experience: £60pp, 2hrs 15mins, over 18’s only, online booking. Max 14 people. Straight from the Cask Connoisseur Tour: £50pp, 2hrs 15mins, over 18’s only. Max 12 people. Chivas Cellar Tasting: £40pp, 45mins, over 18’s only, online booking. Max 8 people. A ‘Fly Dram’: £10pp, 10mins, over 18’s only, online booking.

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Alan

110 exploredrinks.comAlan Winchester is proof that hard-work and a humble attitude can see an individual achieve great things. Although he has been in the whisky trade for over 40 years, he has had to climb the ranks during that time, starting out as a tour guide for a summer job before working as a mashman, a brewer, a still man and, finally, taking out the top job – master distiller.

THE GLENLIVET Winchester MASTER DISTILLER

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It is this ingenuity that makes Alan well-respected amongst his peers in the industry, and he is regularly asked to speak on his experience and extensive knowledge of the category. He is the past President of the Malt Distillers Association, past Chairman of the Institute of Brewing and Distilling, Scotland and a fellow of the Institute since 2011. He was bestowed with the title of Keeper of the Quaich in 2004, before becoming a Master in 2015, and he won Whisky Magazine’s Icons of Whisky Scotland Master Distiller of the Year 2017.

One of the greatest recognitions of Alan’s career has been the attribution of his name to ‘The Glenlivet Winchester Collection’ – the brand’s series of extremely rare and highly valued 50-YearOld single malt Scotch releases. Released over a number of years, each vintage in the collection is bottled at the peak of maturation under Alan’s watchful eye. Very few whiskies are able to reach 50 years in cask and still be drinkable, alongside the fact 60 – 80 per cent of the spirit is usually lost to the angel’s share by this stage. This makes the whiskies in ‘The Glenlivet Winchester Collection’ incredibly unique, with each bottle sold at In$25,000USD.hissparetime, Alan is a great walker, often found roaming the Highland hills. Uniting his loves of history and rambling, he created The Glenlivet Smugglers Trail in 2007. The trail invites visitors to The Glenlivet distillery to walk in the footsteps of the whisky smugglers who transported their illicit golden liquid out of the Livet valley in the 18th and early 19th century. During The Spirit of Speyside Festival each summer, you can often find Alan out on the trail educating guests about the distillery’s rich history and characters. He has admitted before his favourite drink is a small dram of The Glenlivet 18-Year-Old with a splash of water, but he would never pass up a tipple from The Winchester Collection – as long as someone else is footing the bill!

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Alan is dedicated to using the traditional methods of The Glenlivet distillery, which are close to 200 years old, but he is also ardent about constant innovation via new expressions and styles. During his career, he has introduced peated styles, such as the Nàdurra, and a no-age-statement expression, Founder’s Reserve, to open up the brand to a wider range of whisky enthusiasts.

Starting from the ground levels of production and working his way up to being appointed The Glenlivet Master Distiller in 2009, Alan has unique insight into the importance of the production process at all stages. It was an old school teacher that inspired him to, ‘get a job that he would enjoy’ and he’s followed this advice to turn his passions for whisky and history into a career.

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THE DISTILLERYGLENLIVET

The distillery operates three types of tour: The Glenlivet Classic Tour, The Definitive Spirit Tour and the Drams of Distinction Tasting. On the Classic Tour, guests are shown the process of whisky making in The Glenlivet’s modern distillery. After a tour of the traditional dunnage warehouse where the casks are left to slowly mature, visitors are then invited to toast George Smith with a dram of his beloved whisky. For those looking for a more in-depth tour experience, The Definitive Spirit offers both an immersive tour and the opportunity to taste the new make spirit and a selection from the range of other whiskies. This tasting experience showcases how the infusion

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VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS Nestled in an untamed, remote valley next to a babbling brook, you’ll find The Glenlivet Distillery, home of the self-proclaimed ‘definitive’ Speyside whisky.

Founder George Smith established the first licensed distillery in the parish of Glenlivet in 1824, an area notorious for smugglers and thieves. You can read about how George successfully defended his liquid gold from these outlaws at The Glenlivet Exhibition inside the distillery, which tells of the history of the whisky from its Speyside beginnings to being enjoyed across the globe. Interested visitors can actually walk in the shoes of these infamous criminals by following the Smuggler’s Trail through the distillery grounds. Grab a map at the visitor centre and trace the history of the whisky down one of the three clearly signposted walks.

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TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: The Glenlivet Classic Tour: £10pp, 1hr 15mins. Max 12 people. Daily tours from 10am, every half hour with the last tour at 4:30pm. The Definitive Spirit: £65, 2hr 30mins. Max 10 people. Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday 2:00pm (subject to availability). Drams of Distinction Tasting: £40, 1hr. Tuesday and Thursday 11:00am and 3:00pm, Saturday 11:00am (subject to availability).

114 of the wood into the spirit creates Glenlivet’s ‘definitive whisky’. Lastly, for the serious whisky enthusiast, The Glenlivet offers the Drams of Distinction Tasting. The hour-long tasting allows guests to sample a selection of rare whiskies paired with tasty bites. This tasting does not include a tour of the distillery itself. Become a Guardian of The Glenlivet for free before travelling to the distillery and you will also be invited to experience the hidden Library, an exclusive whisky lounge where you’re encouraged to take a seat by the fire with your favourite dram in hand. ADDRESS: Ballindalloch, Banffshite, AB37 9DB T: +44 (0) 1340 82120 W: www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com/theglenlivet OPENING HOURS: Monday-Sunday: (March-November)9:30am-6pm

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ADDRESS: Elgin Road, Rothes, Banffshire AB38 7BS T: +44 (0) 1340 832118 W: www.glengrant.com/gb/en/distillery/visitor-centre

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Founded by the Grant brothers in 1840, the distillery is nowadays one of the leading producers of single malt in the world, with an annual capacity of close to 6.2 million litres of pure alcohol. Former illegal distillers and smugglers, the brothers were strategic in their choice of site for the distillery, choosing a spot that is close to the goods port of Garmouth, the pristine waters of the River Spey and bountiful fields of barley. Glen Grant is proud of this heritage; evident as it is the only Scotch whisky whose distillery is still named after its original owners. It is unique in another way also, as it is the only distillery in Speyside where every drop is bottled on-site. Today, the distillery attracts around 16,000 visitors each year and offers both guided tours and private tastings with the distillery staff. Guests can savour a dram in the refurbished, modern coachman’s cottage, or enjoy a coffee and a homemade cake at the Coffee Shop, open April to October. The inexpensive admission fee includes both a guided tour of the distillery and entry into the famous Victorian Gardens. When James Grant established the distillery alongside his brother, he wanted to highlight the natural beauty of the area by building a stunning Victorian style garden in the grounds. Since fully restored, guests can now stroll along the winding path through the garden, past blooming flowerbeds, verdant lawns and a flowing waterfall and see the heather thatched dram pavilion or the little cave where Major Grant, James’ son and successor, kept his own private Glen Grant barrel.

the woods, at the end of a short, scenic path in the idyllic Speyside town of Rothes you’ll find the Glen Grant distillery.

OPENING HOURS: Monday-Saturday: 9:30am-5pm (April-October) 9:30am-4:30pm (November-March)

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If you are considering a visit to BenRiach, the distillery is not generally open to the public but you can book in for a personalised tour in one of just four slots each week.

Located in the heart of Speyside, in the north-east region of Morayshire, BenRiach displays all the traditional charm of a Speyside distillery. Built by John Duff in 1898, BenRiach draws its water from the Burnside springs located underground, deep below the distillery.

Book and contact via website W: www.benriachdistillery.com OPENING HOURS: You can visit (if you’ve pre-booked) on a Tuesday or a Thursday at either 10am or 2pm.

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BENRIACH DISTILLERY

Although BenRiach started producing malt whisky back in 1898, the distillery was a victim of unfortunate timing. BenRiach was operational for just two years before the ‘Pattison Crash’, in 1900, which resulted in a period of hardship for the entire whisky industry and the closure of many distilleries. So, after just a couple of years of distillation, the stills at BenRiach fell silent, and remained so for 65 long years. Under normal circumstances, this would have spelled the end for the distillery, as the buildings would surely have been demolished. However, next to BenRiach lay its sister distillery Longmorn, which had enjoyed sporadic periods of production during BenRiach’s lengthy hiatus.

The whisky makers at Longmorn continued to source some of their malted barley from the floor maltings at BenRiach, and it was this alone that kept the distillery alive during those ‘mothballed’ years. Then, in 1965, the Scotch whisky industry entered a golden era, and suddenly new distilleries were being commissioned and dormant distilleries re-opened, including BenRiach. Production re-commenced immediately. Fast-forward to 2004, and the beginning of the most exciting period in BenRiach’s history. It was in April of that year that BenRiach became independent, having been purchased by The BenRiach Distillery Company Limited. This independent ownership allows the distillery to experiment with several interesting wood finishes, and it continues to produce whisky from both peated and non-peated malted barley. The BenRiach portrays its own uniqueness through the particular methods and skills of the men who craft the whisky, the ingredients used, the distinctive copper stills and the high quality casks selected for maturation.

TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING:

The ‘Connoisseur’s Tour’ lasts around 1hr 30mins and the cost is approximately $55

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The breathtakingly scenic Ben Rinnes Mountain and the pure spring water of the River Spey that flows over its pink granite have long been shrouded in tales of Scottish folklore. Since ancient times this water has been believed to possess magical qualities, and its incredible softness makes it ideal for whisky making.

It is for this reason that James Fleming established his quaint distillery in the little village of Aberlour in 1879, in the heart of Speyside where the Lour Burn meets the River Spey. Although small, the distillery offers a number of specialist tours and tastings. The Aberlour Experience Tour combines a tour of the distillery with a tasting of six samples. On the tour, guests will learn about the history of Aberlour and the whisky making process, as well as have the opportunity to purchase distillery exclusive whiskies. If whisky is your specialty, the Cask from the Past Tasting may be the experience for you. The one-hour tasting takes place in the luxurious Fleming Room and includes some of Aberlour’s rare special drams. For those looking to fully immerse themselves in the world of Aberlour, the Chronicles of the Cask will take you on a journey through the senses to experience how each impact the tasting of whisky. A visit to the still house precedes an opportunity to nose special casks housed in Warehouse 1. Back in the Fleming Room, guests have a guided tasting of three exclusive Aberlours, only available to try at this tasting.

ABERLOURDISTILLERY

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ADDRESS: Aberlour, Banffshire, AB38 9PJ, UK T: +44 (0) 1340 88 1249 W: www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com/aberlour OPENING HOURS: Monday-Sunday: 9:30am-5pm (12 March-9 Monday-Friday:November)10am-4pm (10 November-11 March) TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: Aberlour Experience Tour: £15pp, 1hr 30mins-2hrs. Max 16 people. Tours at 10:00am and 2:00pm daily. Pre-booking strongly recommended. Casks from the Past: £35pp, 1hr. Max 10 people. Monday, Tuesday and Friday 11:30am. Advanced booking essential. Chronicles of the Cask: £45pp, 1hr 30mins. Max 8 people. Wednesday and Thursday 11:00am.

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122 exploredrinks.comWith a degree in food science and a background in sensory analysis, Stephanie MacLeod applies deep passion and know-how to crafting John Dewar’s & Sons much-loved blends and single malts STEPHANIE MACLEOD MASTER BLENDER FOR DEWAR’S

Stephanie is an advocate for women entering the spirits industry and a regular speaker regarding this issue. Most recently, she spoke at the first Women of the Vine & Spirits International Summit in London and was this year awarded Whisky Magazine’s Icons of Whisky Master Blender of the Year.

Since assuming the role of Dewar’s seventh Master Blender in 2006, Stephanie has drawn on her science knowledge to apply sensory methods when nosing and tasting the whisky. This requires the use of controlled conditions to evaluate a blend and utilising statistical techniques to ensure partiality towards a particular blend is valid.

When home alone, with a dram in hand, she’s versatile on how she takes her whisky. For Dewar’s White Label and Dewar’s 12-Year-Old, she likes to mix together ginger ale, a wedge of lime and ice; with Dewar’s 25, she prefers to take it neat or sometimes with a block of ice; and with the malts, she thinks they’re best neat or with a splash of water.

Subsequently, she became Dewar’s Malt Master in addition to Master Blender, as she oversees every step of the production process for each of the single malts from the five malt distilleries – Aberfeldy, Aultmore, Craigellachie, The Deveron and Royal Brackla.

Her love of whisky wasn’t always so fervent, with her admitting to once possessing a clear preference for other drinks in her early 20s. It wasn’t until she studied whisky as a research assistant in sensory analysis for her alma mater, the University of Strathclyde, that she developed a real appreciation for the spirit. In investigating the influence of the maturation process on a whisky, she became fascinated with the diverse range of whiskies three simple elements – water, malt or grain and wood casks – can produce. In 1998, she joined Dewar’s in the spirit qaulity Laboratories in Glasgow’s head office, a division she eventually came to run before becoming Blender Designate in 2003 under the tutelage of then Master Blender, Tom Aiken.

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The first blend she ever created was Dewar’s 15-Year-Old, and she has continued in the spirit of innovation through experimentation ever since. In 2014, she was instrumental in the expansion of Dewar’s by launching the ‘Last Great Malts’ series – the never-beforereleased highlights of the single malt portfolio.

Born in Glasgow, Stephanie now lives two hours from the Aberfeldy distillery with her twin girls, Emma and Rachel, and her husband, Niall. In her spare time, she is a tennis and running enthusiast.

Taking place once a day, the experience includes a tour of the distillery and a visit to the warehouse to learn about Dewar’s double-aging technique, before finishing with a whisky and chocolate tray tasting of Aberfeldy 12-Year-Old Single Malt, Dewar’s 12-YearOld Blended Scotch and the ultra-premium Dewar’s 18-Year-Old perfectly paired with artisan single origin dark chocolate disks. The chocolate disks are made by a local chocolatier, and each whisky and chocolate match was chosen by Master Blender Stephanie MacLeod. There is also a standard Distillery Tour; a Cask Tasting Tour, where guests are invited to sample a rare and exclusively aged Aberfeldy single cask whisky in the warehouse; a Connoisseur Tour that affords visitors with an additional tasting mat of five Scotch whiskies (15ml each); and a daily Blender’s Tour, where guests create their own blend of Experimental Batch Scotch using cask strength single malt and grain whisky. If you’re looking for a truly unique experience, Dewar’s also host a luxury Immersion Whisky Tour once a month. The full-day event begins with a welcome coffee/tea and shortbread before visitors are escorted on a tour of the Dewar’s archive. Guests are then treated to a visit to the distillery’s water source, the Pitilie Burn, followed by a full distillery tour including tasting a single cask Aberfeldy whisky straight from the cask. A freshly made buffet lunch is provided in the elegant Whisky Lounge, with visitors then moving on to the Blending Room for a guided tasting of old and rare expressions. The day then finishes with cocktails served in a secret location on site, before guests leave with a 20cl bottle of exclusively aged single cask Aberfeldy hand-signed by the distillery manager. Every tour includes access to the interactive heritage exhibition, where visitors gain insight into the lives of Dewar’s founders, John Dewar and his sons, John and Tommy Dewar.

ABERFELDY DISTILLERY

At the time the distillery was created, the Dewar’s brand was already a household name and the company was in desperate need of greater reserves of single malt whisky to use in its blend. The brothers enlisted the help of the leading distillery architect of the time, Charles Doig, and the signature pagoda roof he installed is still one of the most prominent architectural features of the distillery today. The distillery offers a range of tours, including Dewar’s renowned Whisky & Chocolate experience.

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rolling lush green hills and beside the waterfall of the beautiful Pitilie Burn, Aberfeldy Distillery was first planned by the sons of John Dewar in 1896. In a way it was a homecoming for the men, as their highly successful father, founder of Dewar’s whisky John Dewar, was born just three miles away.

DEWAR’S

VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS exploredrinks.com 125 ADDRESS: Aberfeldy, Perthshire PH15 2EB, UK T: +44 (0)1887 822010 W: www.dewars.com/gl/en/aberfeldydistillery OPENING HOURS: Monday-Saturday: 10am-6pm (Closes 4pm November-March) Sundays (April-October): 12pm-4pm TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: Aberfeldy Distillery Tour: £10.50pp, 1hr 30mins. Cask Tasting Tour: £17pp, 1hr 45mins. Whisky & Chocolate Tasting Tour: £23pp, 2hrs. Connoisseur Tour: £27pp, 2hrs. Blender’s Tour: Take’s place only at 3pm, every weekday. £99pp, 2hrs 30mins. Bookings essential. Dewar’s Immersion Luxury Whisky Tour: Starts at 10am and finishes at 3:30pm each month. £120pp. Max 10 people.

126 exploredrinks.com THE BEATING HEART OF SPEYSIDE LONGMORN

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127 The Longmorn Distillery was founded back in 1893, and is still producing malts from the Speyside region. Today, it is part of the Pernod Ricard Group. The distillery is located, not surprisingly, in the town of Longmorn, which is in the district of Moray, very close to the town’s other distilleries. Longmorn was founded by John Duff in 1873 and is one of the only distilleires to avoid a lengthy period of inactivity. Duff had a long history with distilling before opening Longmorn and even played host to the Japanese Grandfather of whisky, Masataka Taketsuru, who came to Scotland to learn to distill. Duff foresight saw him construct railroads direct to the distillery that allowed him to bring in the finest barley from all over the UK and to use the same railraods to export his whisky to the rest of the world. Longmorn sources its water from local springs, the Burnside wells. It operates four wash stills and four spirit stills, providing an annual capacity of 4.5 million litres per annum, up from 3.5 million after the 2012 renovations. The mash tun, also installed in 2012, has a capacity of 8 tuns, each stainless steel. The whisky is matured in three types of casks: ex-Bourbon, new American oak and ex-oloroso sherry casks from Jerez in Spain. Barley comes from the Moray region and peat from the nearby Mannoch Hill. The distillery moved from direct coal firing of the stills to steam during the 1993 modernisation. The old steam engine is still on the property, and can be called into service if needed. There is even the old waterwheel, which used to power the stills. The whiskies produced here have proved extremely popular as blending components and Longmorn malts, with their pronounced aromatics, balance and sweet notes, well known for their significant contribution to Chivas Regal. Their 15-Year-Old was replaced by the even more admired 16-Year-old, in 2007, and a 23-Year-Old in 2017 This is a distillery which attracts the attention of independent bottlers of single malts for good reason, knwon as every distillers’ second favourite malt. Longmorn Distillery does not have a visitors’ centre and is not open to the public.

Jura is 30,000 hectares of raw scenery, although nearly 10,000 of that is only exposed at low tide.

Water for the distillery comes from the nearby mountains, the Paps of Jura, which filters its way down to the Market Loch. The stills are some of the tallest to be found at any island distillery, the theory being that the taller the still, the purer the spirit.

The original bottling for the new distillery was ‘Origin’, a ten-year-old non-peated malt which was well known for its heather and honey character.

Jura, an island which is part of the Inner Hebrides archipelago off western Scotland, is not the most hospitable place on the planet. It is mostly barren, severely mountainous, sparsely populated (196, according to the latest census, though there are more than 5,000 deer) and mostly covered in what is known as blanket bog (a form of peatland where the wet climate allows peat to develop extensively).

The local village of Craighouse has a single pub, one church and the one distillery, Jura. And a single road. Its closest neighbour is the more famous Islay.

There are a number of other bottlings, but the most fascinating might be the ‘Prophecy’.

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This is a heavily peated malt. It was named ‘Prophecy’ as in the early 1700’s, the Campbell family evicted a man from their property. As he trudged away, he yelled a curse at the family, claiming that the last Campbell to leave the island would be one-eyed and would have all his belongings in a cart, drawn by a single white horse. In 1938, Charles Campbell, who’d lost an eye in the earlier War and subsequently fallen on hard times, packed up his belongings and took them to the pier in a cart, pulled by his white horse.

There have also been Jura malts offered by independent bottlers.

Jura Distillery

The current owners are Whyte and Mackay Ltd.

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George Orwell described Jura as “extremely unget-at-able” in 1946. The Island’s first distillery was built in 1810 by the Campbell family, very close to the site of the current one (the same grounds), but, after being rebuilt in the 1880’s, closed in 1901 and went to ruin. A new distillery, designed by the famous William Delme-Evans who was responsible for a number of distilleries, was constructed in the 1950’s and opened in 1963, at which time, it employed a quarter of the male population on Jura. It had the stated aim of, despite the peat bogs and the proximity to Islay, making a Highland-type malt. They were keen to avoid the peaty notes common at the time. There have been some experimental bottlings of a much more peaty style from the late 1990’s, and these have been well received.

DALMORE DISTILLERY THE KING, A CHARGING STAG AND THE CLAN MCKENZIE ADDRESS: Dalmore Alness, Highlands and Islands, Alness IV17 0UT, Scotland T: +44 1349 882362 W: www.thedalmore.com OPENING HOURS: Individual appointments Book online TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: £8.00

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Any whisky appreciated by Luke Skywalker, Samuel L Jackson and a Kingsman must be a bit special. Fans of popular culture will recognise the references to the first Kingsman film, when an attempted rescue by a Kingsman of the kidnapped professor, played by Hamill, goes wrong as Jackson and his henchwoman turn up. Everyone takes time to sip on a 1962 Dalmore and, really, why wouldn’t you? After all, the last time a bottle was sold was 2011, when it fetched a mere £125,000. The Dalmore Distillery, located at Alness, 30 kilometers north of Inverness, was constructed back in 1839 by Alexander Matheson, and immediately leased to the Sutherland family. Then from 1869, the Mackenzie brothers took up the lease – the iconic 12-point stag crest of the family has been retained and is seen on every bottle of Dalmore. The crest dates back to the 13th century when Colin, chief of the Mackenzie clan, saved King Alexander III of Scotland from a charging stag and was granted the right to the crest. The distillery was a success, though it hit some problems when, in 1917, the Royal Navy started using the next door firth for producing deepsea mines. An incident in 1920, incident being a euphemism for ‘massive explosion and subsequent fire’, destroyed most of the distillery. Lawyers became involved, and the matter even went to the House of Lords. Production recommenced in 1922. In 1960, the Mackenzie family finally sold to one of their main customers, Whyte & Mackay. Dalmore produced a single, single malt for many years, their 12-Year-Old, but more recently, the range has expanded to include 15, 18 and 25-Year-Old malts, several no-age whiskies and some stunning prestige releases. These are highly regarded by collectors and aficionados, and often bring seriously high prices, sometimes five, even six, figures. Put simply, Dalmore is considered to be one of the very finest of all Highland distilleries. The distillery has four washes in two sizes (three at 13,000 litres and one double that), four stills (again varying sizes with one twice the size of the others) and a capacity of 4,200,000 litres. Water comes from the River Alness. Maturation takes place in American white oak bourbon casks and also aged sherry casks from Gonzalez Byass, hand-selected by Master Distiller Richard Paterson. It is believed that these sherry casks give the whiskies their characteristic nutty, spicy, citrus and ginger notes, while the bourbon casks provide more vanilla, honey and tropical fruit touches. ‘The Mackenzie’, one of their many prestige releases, sees time in aged port pipes from Oporto. Consider some of these releases and it becomes obvious why they are so highly desired and achieve such impressive prices. The ‘Trinitas’ is a 64 -Year-Old single malt, blended from some of the world’s rarest whiskies from 1868, 1878, 1926 and 1939. Only three bottles were made, with each selling for between £100,000 and £120,000. ‘Eos’ was a blend of two sherry casks from 1951, as was the ‘Selene’. ‘Sirius’ is also from the 1951 vintage, but only twelve decanters were made. The ‘Oculus’ is even rarer. A blend of malts from 1868, 1878, 1922, 1926, 1939 and 1951, only one single bottle, as a Baccarat crystal decanter, was produced. There are plenty more prestige whiskies in their portfolio. Dalmore has more than earnt is reputation as one of the very great Scottish distilleries.

‘Auxilio Dei’ is the brand’s slogan, translating, rightfully so, to: “By the Help of God.”

MUIRHEAD HEAD OF THE MOOR

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In addition to the Muirhead’s Blue Seal blended Scotch whisky, a number of premium blended whiskies were also produced under the Gold Label, Silver Label or Old Maturity brands, becoming a household name in many countries around the world. Since its sale, Muirhead’s has maintained a close relationship with its founders, the Muirhead’s Clan (name meaning “Head of the Moor” in Gaelic). The clan etched their name in history as the royal bodyguards of King James IV at the disastrous battle of Flodden Field in 1513. The battle pitted the Scots against the English and was one of the most devastating battles in Scottish History. The King, along with thousands of Scots perished, including John Muirhead the laird of the clan, and 200 of the clansmen, after bravely defending their king to the end. King James IV became the last monarch from the British Isles to be killed in battle.

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Muirhead’s Scotch Whisky was first produced in 1824 by Charles Muirhead and Sons, wine merchants from Edinburgh. That business later expanded, becoming blenders and exporters of Scotch whisky under the flagship brand: Muirhead’s Blue Seal. The company experienced great success and was eventually acquired in the 1920s by Macdonald & Muir Distillers - better known today as the world-famous Glenmorangie Company.

Continuing to stand strong, the Muirhead whiskies are proudly produced in the Tullibardine Distillery in Blackford, Perthshire, and remain fiercely independent and family owned.

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ADDRESS: Talisker Distillery (Diageo Plc), Carbost, Isle of Skye, IV47 8SR, Isle of Skye, Scotland, UK T: +44 01478 614308 W: www.malts.com

The history of the Talisker Distillery is complex and dramatic. It first began in 1818, when Lauchlan MacLean purchased property on the Isle of Skye that he planned to use for sheep farming. By 1829, the monetary potential of a distillery was too much to pass up, and he began building the original distillery. The church, against the idea, proclaimed that it would be, “One of the greatest curses that could befall it or any other place.” Despite the lack of support from the church, specifically the minister at that time Minister McLeod, the property thrived after the completion. For years after that, the property was passed from person to person, but nearly all went bankrupt during the whisky depression. Once the economy stabilised in 1892, the Talsiker Distillery was booming once again and was fifty times more valuable than it was 35 years earlier. With its increase in success, the distillery could no longer function without a pier. Minister MacLeod denied approval until his death in 1899, which finally allowed for it to be built. In 1960, a valve on the No.1 spirit was not shut properly and the liquor poured over the fire underneath. This fire destroyed the entirety of the still house and it didn’t reopen until two years later. Of the seven distilleries that were once on Isle of Sky, Talisker is today’s lone survivor, which has earned it ‘cult status’ and more than 50,000 visitors each year.

ADULTS: $6.00 CHILDREN (8-17): $3.00 TaliskerTOURS: Classic Distillery Tour: $10.00 - 45 Minutes Guided tour of the oldest working distillery on the Isle of Skye, See views of Cuillins Have opportunity to taste of Talisker Single Malt Scotch Whisky Talisker Flight: $25.00 - 1 hour 30 minutes Tour of Informaldistillerytasting of several expression of Talisker Single Malt Talisker Tasting Tour: $40.00 - 2 hours Tour of distillery Taste 5 expressions of Talisker Complimentary nosing glass

VISITOR’S CENTRE OPENING HOURS: November-March: Monday-Friday: 10am-4:30pm Tours: 10:30am, noon, 2pm and 3:30pm April-May: Monday-Saturday: 9:30am-5pm Tours throughout day until 4pm June: Monday-Saturday: 9:30am-5pm; Sunday: 11am-5pm Tours throughout day until 4pm July-August: Monday-Friday: 9:30am-5:30pm; Saturday: 9:30am-5pm; Sunday: 11am-5pm Tours all day, last tour 1 hour before closing September to October: Monday-Saturday: 9:30am-5am Tours throughout day, last tour at 4pm CLOSED: Christmas Eve; Christmas Day; Boxing Day; New Years Day and 2nd January

He has described the position at Scapa as “a real privilege because it’s lovely to be really passionate about something you really truly believe in.”

Brian spends two to three days each week at Scapa, a three hour commute. When he is in residence, he has said that the requirements of the job often mean he works all night, but there is no suggestion that he finds this onerous in any way. Quite the contrary. One gets the impression that Brian Macauley is one of those fortunate people whose work is their passion.

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It takes a special kind of person to work on a remote, rugged, island not all that far from the Arctic Circle. Even more so, when they love it so much.

MACAULAYBRIAN

HEAD SCAPADISTILLER,DISTILLERY

Brian Macauley is that sort of man, but it should come as no surprise. It runs in the family, with both his father and his grandfather holding distillery roles before him. In addition, as they say in the classics, Brian grew up an Island man.

Brian Macauley is the master distiller at the Scapa Distillery, near the town of Mainland on the Island of Orkney. Now part of the Chivas group, and hence subsequently Pernod Ricard this is one of the two distilleries on this bleak Macaulayisland.has worked with the Scapa Distillery for more than two decades. He is also the senior bulk operations manager for the Chivas Brothers, but he is quick to confirm that it is with Scapa that his heart lies. That said, he does believe that the two roles complement each other. The revival of the distillery and the launching of its single malt are yet more reasons for Macauley’s fondness for Scapa. His role obviously encompasses all matters Scapa, but also strategic decisions involving the group’s future, bulk stocks, blending and more.

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Chief among these issues can be the ferry, which has been known not to sail. It can mean that the distillery is close to reaching tipping point as far as storage and available vessels goes, with the tanker tied up on the mainland. They were also within a day of stopping production on one occasion when their barley had not arrived and, on another, they had an eight hour delay with spirits. Increasing the work force from three to five has helped alleviate some of their problems but one suspects that this remote and fascinating Island will always find some new challenge to throw at the Oneteam.also suspects that Brian Macauley would not have it any other way.

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This recent whisky, mentioned above, is a 40% no-age statement, peated single malt, called ‘Glansa’, which was initially aged in first-fill American oak casks and subsequently transferred to casks that had previously seen peated whisky. ‘Glansa’ is Old Norse for ‘shining storm-laden skies’, which seems very appropriate for whiskies from this windswept, barren Island. Macauley has described it as a whisky with “fruity textures yet smoky finish” which “makes it the perfect representation of this island of contrasts.” Glansa has followed their Skiren as a regular release from the revamped distillery. There have also been oneoffs and limited editions. Something else that is obviously close to Macauley’s heart is that the distillery now offers a visitors’ centre, the first time it has done so in more than 130 years. Macaulay has been quoted as saying, “It is a great honour to be able to open the doors to the history and craft production processes here at Scapa distillery, which have been the secret of precious few artisans over the last hundred years. I have personally taken the pleasure in removing our ‘No Visitors’ sign and I know I speak on behalf of the team here in saying that we can’t wait to see the Scapa Distillery form an interesting, educative and welcoming part of the Orkney community.” Macauley has also noted that his job is made so much easier by the support he, and the Distillery, have received from the local Workingcommunity.atadistillery on a remote Island has brought its own challenges and obstacles, but it is clear that Brian is one of those people who see problems as opportunities, or at the very least, something that life serves up and you deal with it and move on to the next challenge.

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Orkney Islands, an archipelago off Scotland, would seem to be a bleak place – windswept, barren, cold, storms, isolated and rugged –but humans have lived here for over 5,000 years. The islands may not have produced their iconic whiskies for that long, but no doubt the early inhabitants would have appreciated them.

SCAPA DISTILLERY

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A small team of five, in addition to the master distiller, operate Scapa on a 24-hour basis. It is one of the last remaining manually operated distilleries, with the crew working successive shifts. It is, for this team, far more than a job. The master distiller grew up on the island and both his father and grandfather worked at the distillery.

137 Scapa is one of two distilleries on the largest of their islands, Mainland, located in the town of Kirkwall. It is the second most northerly distillery in Scotland, pipped only by the nearby Highland Park. They are well worth the journey, and this island should be on the bucketlist for every whisky lover. Technically, they are described as Highland whiskies. Scapa was founded back in 1885, by Macfarlane & Townsend, before eventually joining what would become part of the Chivas Regal/Pernod Ricard empire in the 1950s. John Townsend was General Manager of the operation from opening through until just after World War One, in 1919, when it became the Scapa Distillery Company Ltd.

There were some problems along the way, with the operation going into voluntary liquidation in 1934, but it was revived in 1936 by the Bloch Brothers. Despite its valued contribution to blends, as well as its own distinctive malts, most notably the popular 12-Year-Old, it was sidelined in 1994. Eternal closure looked certain to be its fate. A reprieve came in 1997, when production recommenced, though slowly.

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Douglas Laing and Gordon & MacPhail have been especially active. There is a wide range of ages made available by these releases, ranging from 11-Year-Old to 25-Years.

The style of Scapa malts is described as being from the subtle end of the spectrum, heather and honey with sea spray. A 14-Year-Old replaced the 12 as the standard and, in 2009, a 16-Year-Old, which sees an extra two years in first fill American oak, was added to the range, later becoming their ‘standard’. There are various vintage bottlings and age statement releases, up to 25 years, though bottlings can come and go. Aficionados know to keep an eye out for independent releases, which are not infrequent, of single malts from this distillery.

Resurrection came in 2004 and the distillery was rebuilt and fully reopened. A year later, further refurbishment took place and Chivas Brothers took over the site.

One advantage of such an extreme climate is that evaporation, the angels’ share, is lower than that encountered at most distilleries.

There was a time when visiting Scapa meant knocking on the door and hoping that someone had the time to show you around. They usually did, but no guarantees. Now, they offer various organised tours. The ‘Scapa Tour’ (£10.00, duration: 45 minutes) takes guests through the process and allows them to see one of the industry’s last remaining Lomond Stills in action. This barrel-shaped wash still was installed in 1959 and has a wider and taller neck than is usual, the sole survivor of its style used for making whisky. The team use this still as they like the richer, fruitier spirit it delivers. Visitors will also see the famous Scapa Flow natural anchorage site. And, of course, finish with a glass of Scapa Skiren. There is the option to extend the tasting to include the Glansa.

The ‘Scapa Experience’ (£20.00, duration: 1.5 hours) is a more extensive tour and includes the bonded warehouses and maturing whisky casks. It is followed by a tasting session of three spirits and also a whisky dram drawn from one of the casks in the warehouse. Pre-booking these tours is recommended.

The distillery uses one wash still and one spirit still. Scapa is distinctive as, despite using ‘peaty’ water from the Orquil Springs and the Lingro Burn, it has a much less distinctive peat character than most. Other water sources are accessed as well. Care is taken to transport the water through pipelines to avoid any further contact with peat and the malt is not dried over peat smoke. They believe that this allows for unique sweet, tropical notes to emerge. There are eight 44,000 litre fermenters and a mash tun of four tonnes. After distillation, the new make spirit is racked into first fill American oak casks, sourced from Tennessee and Kentucky. These contribute to the vanillin nuances seen in Scapa malts. Production capacity is one million litres per annum.

ADDRESS: St. Ola, Kirkwall, Orkney KW15 1SE E: info@scapamalt.com W: www.scapamalt.com

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Whenexploredrinks.comEuropeans

WORDS

arrived in the Americas 500 years ago, they discovered a plant, a grain, previously unknown to them. They called it ‘Indian Corn’; we call it corn or maize. The natives taught them how to grow it. They did, and it helped them survive. But as they became more settled, they tended to prefer the grains they knew from home, such as wheat, barley, and rye. When they could get it, early American distillers liked a rye-heavy mash for whiskey. Corn didn’t come into its own until Europeans pushed west into the interior, late in the 18th century. CHARLES K. COWDERY STORY OF RYE Whiskey

THE

But rye whiskey persisted in Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania, and continued to be popular throughout the east, even as bourbon took hold in the south and west. Nationally, sales of the two types were about equal by the late 19th century.

Distillers to the north, in Canada, also made rye whiskey, but in a very different style. They softened rye’s strong flavours the same way their cousins in Scotland and Ireland did with malt whisky, by mixing it with nearly-neutral spirit.

The earthy, spicy character of rye whiskey just wasn’t favoured anymore.

Beginning in the late 1960s, whiskey of all types took a steep tumble in the U.S. and the industry contracted sharply into its heartland of Kentucky and Tennessee. Kentucky distilleries had always made a little rye whiskey in addition to bourbon, and as rye declined, their rye output became enough to satisfy nationwide demand. The last whiskey distillery in the east closed in 1990. Even Old Overholt, a

Although nationwide Prohibition didn’t begin until 1920, the idea had been knocking around for decades. Maine became the first state to ban beverage alcohol way back in 1851. The movement caused a lot of disruption, as did the various troubles and scandals having to do with alcohol taxation. During the late 19th century ‘Robber Baron’ era, attempts were made to monopolise alcohol production.

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FEATURE

Although farmers in the interior also planted familiar Old World grains, they continued to grow a lot of corn. The whiskey they made from it, usually seasoned with a little rye, came to be known as bourbon.

Some of these factors harmed rye’s reputation more than they did bourbon’s, but ultimately it was changing tastes that caused rye’s decline.

ENTERTAINING

Rye was kept alive, in part, by bars, particularly in the east, that used it for a variety of classic cocktails, such as the Manhattan and Sazerac. Many barkeepers felt that a bar without rye whiskey simply wasn’t a bar, even if it was rarely ordered.

Much as the leaders of the Renaissance looked to ancient Greece and Rome for inspiration, so too did the pioneers of the craft cocktail movement look to the glorious past. In 1999, David Wondrich started writing about cocktails for Esquire Magazine and often delved into cocktail history. In 2004, Ted Haigh published ‘Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails’, documenting his search for vintage ingredients as well as recipes. In 2007, Wondrich published ‘Imbibe’, his tribute to Jerry Thomas, who wrote the first book of cocktail recipes in 1862. The cocktail culture they were looking to revive had been centred on New York City and American-style rye, not bourbon, was the whiskey of choice in most cocktails that called for American whiskey.

The 70s, 80s, and into the 90s was the era of pop wines, coolers, and shooters. Sweet liqueurs like DeKuyper Peachtree Schnapps outsold many once popular whiskeys. Rye came close to dying, and bourbon wasn’t far behind. Some in the industry compared bourbon and rye to vermouth, a spirit that was only hanging around as an ingredient in certain perennial cocktails. Sometimes it seemed as if the Manhattan was single-handedly keeping bourbon, rye, sweet vermouth, and Angostura bitters in production.

FEATURE

But, in time, distilleries began to add a day or two of rye whiskey production. Heaven Hill, which has always made rye, typically made rye one day in the spring and another in the fall. That was enough until about 2005 when they doubled it to four times a year. By 2014 it was twelve times a year. Jim Beam makes the most rye whiskey, while Jack Daniel’s, America’s largest whiskey distillery, started making rye in 2012. Many of America’s new craft distilleries make rye instead of bourbon.

You may see references to American-style rye whiskey as ‘straight rye’. ‘Straight’ means the same thing for rye whiskey as it does for bourbon or any other American type, which is that it has been aged for at least two years. The term ‘straight rye’ is often used to distinguish American-style rye from the Canadian version. ‘Straight’ isn’t what makes them different, it just indicates that they are.

What you have in American whiskey is a continuum more than a sharp distinction between styles. At the mild end are wheated bourbons, such as Maker’s Mark, which contain no rye. America’s most popular whiskey, Jack Daniel’s, contains a dollop of rye, only about 8 per cent. Several bourbons are in a similar range. Jim Beam and Evan Williams, two other top sellers, contain about 15 per cent rye. Four Roses, Bulleit, and Old Grand-Dad have about twice that much. After that, you’re in straight rye territory.

exploredrinks.com 141 Pennsylvania rye and once the country’s #1 whiskey, moved to Kentucky. Rye whiskey never went away, but it came close. For many years only four distilleries made it, all in Kentucky, and they could make all they needed for the year in two or three days of production.

At the mild end, wood flavours dominate. Corn provides sweetness and body but little character. At about the Jim Beam level, rye begins to cut through and give the spirit some spice and a certain ineffable ‘oomph’. At higher levels of rye, spice gives way to fruit.

Under U.S. rules, bourbon and rye are inevitably very similar because both must be aged in new, charred oak barrels. Wood provides all of the colour (other colouring is prohibited) and most of the flavour. The only difference is in the mash itself. Bourbon mashes must be at least 51 per cent corn, but usually are between 75 and 80 per cent corn, with a dash of rye or wheat for flavour. Rye mashes must be at least 51 per cent rye, and most are just that, the rest being corn. In between are the high-rye bourbons, at about 30 per cent rye and 60 per cent corn. (Virtually all whiskey mash bills in the U.S. include about 10 per cent malted barley.) MGP, a distillery in Indiana, makes a very popular whiskey that is 95 rye, but it is an outlier.

Because the quality of available spirits during Prohibition was often low, and they were always in short supply, cocktails became the norm. Somewhat ironically, it was in speakeasies that public drinking by women became socially acceptable. Not bound by machismo male drinking customs, they chose drinks that tasted good. As the 20th century gave way to the 21st, rye seemed to be making a comeback. Bartenders, rebranded as mixologists, championed it. It made good copy. The only thing was, sales had barely budged. Part of that was the inevitable whiskey ageing cycle, which means you can only bottle so much, and you can’t sell more than you make.

For cocktails, rye is the American whiskey you want if you want to taste the whiskey through everything else. Bourbons, especially wheated bourbons, tend to disappear in the mix. Ryes don’t. Rye whiskey seems to be back for good, at least so long as American whiskey, in general, continues to prosper.

DANIEL’SJACK

HISTORY Every year in September, folks in Lynchburg and elsewhere around the world gather to celebrate the birthday of Mr Jasper Newton Daniel, commonly known as Jack. We think Mr Jack would be proud that people still pause to raise his whiskey in his honour. We think he might be equally amused that they do this not knowing the exact day in September he was born or, for that matter, what year. If you go to Lynchburg, you’ll find the date 1850 inscribed on his gravestone and referred to on the tour as the “official” date of Jack’s birth. And that it is – the “official” date. We know for a fact, it’s not the “actual” date. By 1850, we’re pretty sure Jack’s mother was dead, which would make his birth in that year somewhat problematic. It’s more likely, based on census data, that Jack was actually born two years earlier in 1848.

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In the world of whisky, or whiskey, Jack Daniel’s is as unique (and significant) as they come. Commonly mistaken for a bourbon, the makers of Jack Daniel’s undertake an additional process which classifies it as a Tennessee Whiskey. It is crafted in Lynchburg, Tennessee which, by a weird quirk of fate, falls within Moore County, which happens to be a dry county. So the world’s most popular whiskey just so happens not to be available to purchase in its own hometown. The only exception is at the Distillery’s White Rabbit Bottle Shop in which you can purchase a range of commemorative products.

Well, the 1850 date on the gravestone was the work of Jack’s nephew, Lem Motlow, who laboured side by side with his uncle and eventually inherited his Distillery. Lem probably got this information from his Uncle Jack. Now Jack, because he ran away from home at an early age and both his parents had passed away by the time he was around 14 years old, might not have known the actual year of his birth. Or, because he was a lifelong bachelor and ladies’ man who entertained a number of female acquaintances, he might have shaved a couple of years off his age. Lant Wood, a man who knew Mr Jack, wrote in his memoirs, “[Jack] never mentioned his age, since he was a bachelor... He called the young ladies ‘damsels’ or ‘fair damsels’. He was extremely popular with the younger generation.” Whether he was uncertain of the actual year or it was just a matter of pride, Jack died before revealing the truth about this mystery. Today, it’s only one of the many unknowns that surround Mr Jack and his Distillery. “Here’s to Mr Jack, more than 165 years old and still out in the bars every night.”

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SO WHY THE DISCREPANCY?

VISIT JACK DANIEL’S When in Tennessee, a trip to Lynchburg is a must. There are multiple tour options to choose from depending on how much time you have and if you want to eat. The prices are very reasonable too, starting with a 1 hour 10 min tour for just $15 US and going up to a 3 hour tour and lunch at neighbouring Miss Mary Bobo’s restaurant for $100 US. Learn all about the original square bottle, Jack’s mystery birthday a nd the legend behind the Old No 7. To tour the distillery, book www.jackdaniels.com/en-au/visit-distilleryonline

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So there you have it….100 years later and folks are still talking. Make sure, when you drop past the distillery, that you ask the question. It’ll be fascinating what response you get.

- DISTILLERY FOCUS

THE QUESTION OF

The answer really depends on who you ask. Is it the most obvious which, in our opinion, would be that the number 7 is just lucky, and maybe Mr. Jack Daniel felt like he had received some good fortune when he landed on the whiskey that would go on to bear his name. But ask about Jack Daniel, the man, and you’ll get a view of a person who believed more in hard work than in luck. His whiskey making motto was simply, “Every day we make it, we’ll make it the best we can”. Doesn’t sound like someone putting the recipe down to luck. So was this to do with the batch, or recipe, that Jack was constantly working to perfect? Possibly landing on his seventh batch or recipe and sticking with it?

The mystery deepens, as some speculate it is to do with Mr. Jack’s love life. He remained unmarried and had numerous girlfriends, in which case if the name is a reference to a lady friend, it could explain his continued single status. And if none of these stories work for you, well there are plenty more. Some say Mr. Jack had a friend with seven successful stories; others simply say that the J in his signature resembled a 7. One old-timer confidently contends that Jack Daniel’s was sold for a long time with the motto, “Whiskey made as our fathers made it for 7 generations”.

If you were to have asked the late Jimmy Bedford, the Jack Daniel’s sixth master distiller, how Old No. 7 got its name, he had a story he swore by. Jimmy said that one of Mr. Jack’s shipments of whiskey was lost by the railroad. When the barrels were finally found the word ‘Old’ was written on the shipping ticket that happened to be the ‘No. 7’. The shopkeeper that eventually received the whiskey liked it so much he ordered some more of that ‘Old No. 7’.

exploredrinks.com 145 What’s the number one question the staff at the Jack Daniel’s distillery get? Universally, it has been, “What does the number seven mean in Old No. 7?”

The government even gets some credit, as a change in tax districts had Mr. Jack reminding his growing number of friends that his whiskey was made in the old No. 7 district.

The truth is, with so many stories, quite possibly Mr. Jack didn’t want any of us to really know, and was looking for a reason for folks to talk. As nothing goes better with whiskey than good conversation, perhaps Mr. Jack just wanted to give us something to talk about.

The Buffalo Trace distillery, in Frankfort Kentucky, claims to be the oldest continuously operating distillery in the United States. Naturally, that means a rich and bourbon-soaked history. Burks, which produces Maker’s Mark, has Guinness Book of Records recognition as being the oldest, dating back to 1805, but distilling started on the Buffalo Trace site in 1775, at the hands of the Lee brothers, Hancock and Willis. An actual distillery was constructed in 1812, by Harrison Blanton, whose name adorns a famous and high-quality line of bourbons today. Although, it was actually Harrison’s descendent, Albert, for whom those bourbons are named. In 1792, Kentucky joined the Union, the fifteenth State to do so.

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BUFFALOTRACE

Edmund H. Taylor, a descendant of not one but two former US presidents (Madison and Taylor), purchased the distillery in 1870 and named it the Old Fire Copper Distillery (affectionately known as the ‘OFC’). He sold it, and another distillery, to George T. Stagg in 1878, though he continued to work with the distillery. Stagg installed steam heating in the storage areas, the first attempt at climate control for the maturation of whiskey in America. This steam heating is still used today. In 1904, the name was changed to the George T. Stagg Distillery.

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The distillery was purchased by the Sazerac Company in 1992. The name was changed, yet again, in 1999 to Buffalo Trace Distillery, which comes from an ancient buffalo crossing on the banks of the nearby Kentucky River. The famous Daniel Boone had passed through, following the trace, just a few years before the Lee brothers distilled their first whiskey.

Current Master Distiller, Harlen Wheatley, was appointed to his position in 2005, replacing Gary Gayheart, who had held the role since 1972. Wheatley is just the sixth Master Distiller to hold the role since the Civil War.

Enter Albert Bacon Blanton, Harrison’s son, who worked at the distillery for well over half a century, joining as an office boy at 16 in 1897.

There are many others. This distillery will always hold a special place in the heart of bourbon lovers around the world.

By 1921, he was President of the company.

In 2013, the distillery was named a ‘National Historic Landmark’. Their illustrious history aside, nothing says more about this distillery than a roll call of the bourbons they produce, for themselves, in joint ventures, and on contract for bottlers. The Buffalo Trace bourbons, Col. E. H. Taylor, Eagle Rare, George T. Stagg, McAfee’s Benchmark, O.F.C., Old Taylor, Sazerac, Thomas H. Handy, W. L. Weller, the Wheatley vodka, Blanton’s single-barrel, Elmer T. Lee and, of course, the famous Pappy van Winkle’s Family Reserve.

VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS In 2016, a $200 million expansion commenced. During these renovations, what has become known as ‘Bourbon Pompeii’ was discovered. Slowly, the excavators unveiled the original distillery, including intact 11,000-gallon fermenting tanks which were built by Taylor. His distillery was first established in 1869, but was demolished and rebuilt, bigger and better, in 1873, for what was then a massive amount of money – $70,000USD. This new distillery lasted only until 1882 before it was consumed by fire, initiated by a lightning strike, just four years after the sale to Stagg. It seems not all of it was destroyed. Taylor, still working with the new operation, apparently rebuilt over the remains of the earlier distillery and eventually what was left behind was forgotten. Much of the rebuild involved copper, as Taylor believed it provided a superior product. The cost of this new distillery was the full amount of the insurance, plus a further $44,000. The new distillery was used until the 50s when it was knocked down and concreted over, to be used for storage purposes. Historians and distillers alike are fascinated by this site, which is now open to the public, not least because it seems many of the processes of the day vary considerably from current practices.

The Blanton’s Single Barrel Bourbon, introduced in 1984, was the first single barrel bourbon produced and came from a concept that Blanton had used for his private stocks.

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Aged for six to eight years, it is matured in Warehouse H, notable as their only metalclad warehouse, which promotes more rapid ageing due to quicker heat transference. This warehouse was built before World War II, under the watch of Blanton. The concept of this single barrel bourbon was introduced by Elmer Lee, the master distiller and a man hired by Blanton back in 1949. Most of the different Blanton’s expressions are exported and unavailable in the USA – something that fails to engender a great deal of sympathy with bourbon fans abroad, as they really are excellent spirits. Blanton passed away in 1959.

Blanton was born on the next door farm and led the operation through the perils of Prohibition (producing ‘medicinal whisky’ as one of only four producers allowed to do so), a devastating flood in 1937, which was measured, at its peak, as 17 feet above the power plant, and beyond.

- TASTING NOTES -

FinishPalateNose - THE STORYIn Kentucky, the only thing more important than bourbon is family. Honouring the long branches of their family trees reaching from the Bluegrass State to the Lone Star State, Matthew McConaughey and Wild Turkey Master Distiller Eddie Russell present their rare, small-batch bourbon.

- THE BOURBONLongbranch is a rare small batch bourbon made with 8-year old Wild Turkey Bourbon and refined through a special filtration process, with Texas mesquite and oak charcoals – a unique method that deepens the flavour and complexity of the whiskey.

Balanced blend of vanilla and spices. Flavours of caramel, pear and hints of Subtlecitrus.smoky finish is buttery smooth with notes of gentle pepper and toasted oak.

Son of legendary master distiller Jimmy Russell and second generation Russell to work for Wild Turkey, when Eddie Russell chose to join the family business in 1981 he started at the lower end of the job spectrum, as a humble relief operator. From there, he worked his way up the job ladder, eventually becoming a supervisor of new production and then a warehouse supervisor. After two decades with Wild Turkey, he moved into the position of manager of barrel maturation and warehousing, and it was in this role that he worked alongside his father to create Russell’s Reserve 10-Year-Old award-winning bourbon. It was at this stage that Eddie pushed for the introduction of Wild Turkey Bourbon, initially called Wild Turkey 81, to offer drinkers a premium bourbon that can be mixed in any cocktail and maintain its bold and spicy taste. In 2010, Eddie was inducted to the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame alongside his father and other greats of the bourbon industry. Following this accolade, Eddie was bestowed with the title of master distiller in 2015. He and his father are now the industry’s only father and son master distiller duo that work together side-byside. Both Eddie and Jimmy are now actively involved in every step of the distillation and ageing process of Wild Turkey’s whiskeys. In his time as master distiller, Eddie has been the driving force of Wild Turkey Longbranch, the brand’s collaboration with renowned actor Matthew McConaughey. He has also been instrumental in the production of Wild Turkey’s Master’s Keep Revival –the fourth expression of the acclaimed Master’s Keep Series. Currently a duty free exclusive in Australia, this expression will be released on the domestic market in May 2019. Now in his 37th year at the company, this year Eddie and Jimmy will celebrate a combined 101 years of service at the Wild Turkey distillery. This appropriately pays homage to Wild Turkey 101, the expression that launched Jimmy’s career over 60 years ago. Keeping the business in the family, Eddie’s son, Bruce, joined the company as a brand ambassador in Austin, Texas some year’s ago, and has recently taken a role at the distillery to learn how to produce bourbon. Eddie lives in Lawrenceburg, KY, the town where he was born and raised, with his wife Judy. In his spare time, he likes to play golf or go training and hunting with hunting dogs. Just like his father Jimmy, he takes immense pleasure in travelling the United States and talking about his beloved Wild Turkey whiskey.

MASTER DISTILLER FOR WILD TURKEY AND RUSSELL’S RESERVE

EDDIE RUSSELL Despite coming from Kentucky bourbon royalty, Edward Freeman Russell had to earn his position as Wild Turkey master distiller.

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exploredrinks.com 151 DISTILLERY FOCUS Eddie with father Jimmy Russell

MAKINGPEOPLEREALWHISKEY

“Our goal was to make a straight bourbon whiskey with a soft sweetness that was still unmistakably Wild Turkey. The result was a bourbon that we both truly enjoy drinking neat, and look forward to sharing with others.”

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The rare small batch Kentucky bourbon is refined with Texas mesquite and oak charcoals – a method that deepens the flavour and complexity of the whiskey.

Made with eight-year-old Wild Turkey Bourbon, Longbranch is an exceptional bourbon with a bright gold color and aroma that is a balanced blend of vanilla and spices. Flavours of caramel, pear, and hints of citrus round out the palate.

When Wild Turkey began working with Hollywood A-List actor Matthew McConaughey, the idea was to form a genuine collaboration rather than have the star as merely a figure-head for an already well-known brand.

To create Longbranch’s signature flavour, McConaughey and Russell spent countless hours sharing notes, then perfected a unique process that combines two separate charcoal filtration methods to give Longbranch a smooth and full finish. The first filtration process uses charcoal made from American White Oak and the second uses charcoal made from Texas mesquite wood, giving the bourbon notes of smoky sweetness.

REAL

The name is inspired by the friends that form the longest branches of our family “Longbranch,trees.in its simplest form, is an extended hand, inviting a friend into your family,” McConaughey said. “So the branch that was extended to me from the Russells was a long one, one that reached from Kentucky to Texas and back again. I offered the mesquite from my great state to add to their legendary Kentucky whiskey and together we made Longbranch.”

Eddie Russell, Wild Turkey’s Master Distiller and industry legend, invited McConaughey to become the brand director in 2016, working behind the camera and in front of it in television commercials to reintroduce the world to Wild Turkey.

Now Matthew McConaughey and Eddie Russell have collaborated to launch Wild Turkey Longbranch, a new bourbon inspired by McConaughey’s Kentucky and Texas roots.

The subtle, smoky finish is buttery smooth, with notes of gentle pepper and toasted oak. Commenting on the release, Master Distiller Eddie Russell said: “When we were creating Wild Turkey Longbranch, we talked at length about how to make a product that represents elements of both Texas and Kentucky.”

eW: You serve as the Creative Director for the brand, were you involved in creating the creative campaign for the launch?

MM: I visited the Wild Turkey distillery about four years ago and met Master Distillers Jimmy and Eddie Russell. When I was there, I learned about the Russell family legacy and the distilling process, but what stuck with me was the incredible story behind the brand, a story that I believe deserves to be told. I was inspired by the passion, character and authenticity. It’s a brand and a family that I truly admire.

MM: Longbranch is not a limited edition and will be a permanent expression in the Wild Turkey portfolio.

MM: As a Creative Director for the brand, I help the team at Wild Turkey tell their story and bring my perspective to a variety of creative projects. The launch of Longbranch is no different. I worked with the team to bring Longbranch’s story to life. eW: Was it always the plan for you to create a bourbon for the brand?

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MM: I’ve been working with Wild Turkey for the past three years. I’m their Creative Director, which means I direct and star in the ad campaign and help them introduce Wild Turkey Bourbon to new audiences. Longbranch is a natural extension to my partnership with the brand. I’ve always wanted to create a bourbon that I could call my favorite and with the help of Eddie Russell, we were able to do just that.

eW: Why did you initially decide to partner with Wild Turkey?

MM: Yes. I am a huge bourbon fan and have so much respect for the Russells and Wild Turkey. Since I joined the Wild Turkey family, I’ve really immersed myself in the world of bourbon, and creating Longbranch with one of the greats, Master Distiller Eddie Russell, was a natural evolution of my work with Wild Turkey.

eW: Are you getting paid for creating this MM:product? The creation of Longbranch is part of my partnership with Wild Turkey. I never discuss money, but can say that I have a personal interest in the success of this product eW: Is Longbranch a limited edition to the Wild Turkey portfolio? How long will Longbranch be on the shelves?

TALKING TURKEY WITH MATTHEW MCCONAUGHEY

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explore WHISKY: How involved were you in the creation of Longbranch? Matthew McConaughey: I was involved every step of the way, from concept to creation. We started working on the project in the spring of 2016. Together, we wanted to make a product that represented both of our home states, Texas and Kentucky. I obviously let Eddie do the bourbon making, and he would constantly send me samples to taste for feedback. I handled the bottle design. eW: I know you’re in the Wild Turkey commercials. Is Longbranch part of your advertising campaign for the brand?

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Proudlyexploredrinks.comtheoldest operating bourbon distillery in the country, whiskey has been made on the site of this National Historic Landmark since 1812. Nestled amongst the picturesque hills of bluegrass and thoroughbred farms, along the banks of Glenn’s Creek, lies the charming Woodford Reserve Distillery. The distillery first began when Kentucky local Elijah Pepper moved to the site in search of fresh spring water for his whiskey. What began as a small batch crafting business behind the Woodford County Courthouse had grown in demand to such an extent that Elijah was forced to expand his operation, and an abundance of water was required to do so. The limestone waters of Glenn’s Creek proved the ideal source. It was years later at this very site that Master Distiller James Christopher Crow perfected his whiskey production techniques, many of which are still common practice today. The distillery continues to use the original copper-pot stills imported from Scotland and the 100-year-old cypress wood fermenters, alongside state-ofthe-art technologies such as the 500-foot-long gravity-fed barrel run and the heat-cycled barrel houses, the only of their type in the world. Visitors can experience these technologies by joining one of the distillery’s various tours. The standard Distillery Tour offers guests a guided journey through the distillery, observing the whiskey making processes and learning about the history of bourbon and Woodford Reserve, including how the brand’s ‘five sources of flavour’ model makes it unique. For those looking for a more in-depth experience, the Corn to Cork Tour is a two-hour session showcasing the mechanical, chemical, technical and sensory stages to creating bourbon, together with a standard distillery tour. The tour finishes with a special tasting of Woodford Reserve bourbon. If you consider yourself a bit of a history buff, head along to the National Landmark Tour. The two-hour experience takes guests through the significant cultural and architectural developments of the Woodford Reserve Distillery over the course of its more than 200 year history as a Kentucky landmark. A standard distillery tour and a whiskey tasting follow this.

If your tour is on a Friday or a Saturday, you can add on a mixology presentation with the Woodford Reserve brand ambassador. In this session, you will learn how to make a Woodford Reserve signature serve cocktail. The experience lasts approximately 20 minutes and the choice of cocktail will change each week. The distillery also hosts a number of special events throughout the year, including dinners and live music, and there is a gift shop and café on site. ADDRESS: 7855 McCracken Pike, Versailles, KY 40383 T: (859) 879 1812 W: www.woodfordreserve.com/distillery/our-distillery

OPENING HOURS: Monday-Saturday: 9am-5pm Sunday: 12pm-4:30pm TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: Distillery Tour: $14pp, 1hr, online booking and walk-ins Monday-Saturday: 10am-3pm Sunday: 1pm-3pm (March-December) Cork to Cork: $30pp, 2hr, online booking. Max six people. Tuesdays-Thursdays: 2:30pm National Landmark: $30pp, 2hr, phone reservations required. Wednesdays: 2:30pm

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Lot 40 did disappear for quite some years, and became the white whale for Canadian whisky lovers, but is back in force now – the same story also applies to Pike Creek, which is named after an adjoining creek and suburb, to the distillery. These absences can be partly explained by the need to build aged stocks of material, but also to an initial lack of interest, very different to today.

Lot 40 Canadian Rye and Pike Creek Whisky were/are both part of the Hiram Walker, and subsequently Pernod Ricard, business which has, as they say in the classics, forgotten more about making good whisky than most will ever know.

Lot 40 won ‘Canadian Whisky of the Year’ in 2015, a thrill that the master distiller described as akin to winning the Stanley Cup. There is also a cask strength rye edition, 12-Year-Old at 55 per cent. Pike Creek is a corn-based, blended whisky, aged in Bourbon barrels and finished in port casks. It is notable for ageing in a non-climate controlled warehouse to allow temperature fluctuations to influence maturation. As well as the standard 10-Year-Old and a younger export version, they also offer a 21-Year-Old Speyside Malt Cask Whisky. For many years, the massive Hiram Walker enterprise was closed to the public, for obvious reasons, but recently, the decision has been made to engage with interested devotees and to allow limited access, by way of a walking tour. Corby Spirits have entered into an arrangement with WindsorEats, a local food tourism outfit, to allow groups of up to 16 to tour the facility and to enjoy a tutored tasting of a range of the Walker whiskies –Wiser’s Deluxe, Lot 40, Gooderham & Worts and Pike Creek, as well as a tasting direct from a whisky barrel – in the visitor centre. This tour also includes a visit to the historic town established by Hiram Walker and everyone receives a bottle of whisky at the conclusion.

ADDRESS: 2072 Riverside Dr E, Windsor, ON N8Y 4S5, Canada T: +1 519-254-5171 W: Andhiramwalker.comifyoucan’tmake it in person, you can take a virtual tour here – tour.jpwisers.com

LOT 40 & PIKE CREEK

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Hiram Walker, an American businessman, was born in 1816 and passed away, just before the turn of the century. He achieved great many things during his life, but is undoubtedly most famous for his whisky legacy.

In 1858, he purchased land in what would become Walkerville, Ontario, Canada, and established a distillery. He had saved some $40,000 from his grocery business and used this to fund the distillery. The initial results were marketed as ‘Hiram Walker’s Club Whisky’, and it was so successful that his competitors in the United States lobbied their government to pass legislation requiring all foreign whiskies clearly state their country of origin. In no time, Walker’s ‘Canadian Club’ was that country’s leading export whisky.

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At the time, Walker’s business became so important to Walkerville (note the name), a company town if ever there was one, that Hiram had control over most aspects of life there – “from public works to religious services to police and the fire brigade”.

The Walker family sold the business in 1926, for the cost of the whisky alone, and it moved through several sets of hands until it became part of Pernod Ricard (Canadian Club is owned by Beam Suntory, but still made at the distillery), via their Canadian arm, Corby Spirits. The distillery is still the largest in North America, with 37 fermenters, producing 180,000 litres of alcohol every day, five days a week (as well as whisky, they also make other spirits such as rum and vodka – 150 products in all), 50 million bottles a year. Fourteen warehouses hold 1.6 million barrels of spirits. Blending and bottling take place on four high-speed lines. There are 50 different bottle moulds which can be used. This is the home of Lot 40 rye and so much more. The name, ‘Lot 40’, comes from a plot of land where ancestors of former master distiller, Mike Booth, first set up a still generations earlier.

Large HW might be, but that does not mean they cannot turn their hand to distilling small batches, which is the philosophy behind ‘Lot 40’. They use a single copper pot still, with a process of maturation that does leave a lovely vanillin note in the rye. Aficionados attribute this whisky to the ‘90s boom in high-end spirits. Canada was seen as lacking any candidates for the category and the team at HW set about rectifying that. The trio of whiskies created to fit this niche were Pike Creek, Gooderham & Worts and Lot 40. One does not have to look far to find Canadians who will rate Lot 40 as the finest ever made in their country. While the quality was never in question, there was a feeling that, paradoxically, they may have been even more successful if priced amongst the whisky stratosphere, and not seen as value products.

Strange world.

Thinkexploredrinks.comwhiskyand

Friends, who have become devotees, continually praise the whiskies that they are seeing from the Kavalan Distillery (owned by the King Car Group, because alcohol and driving go so well together) in the Yilan County of Taiwan – and they guard them jealously. Best New World Whisky 2012, evaluated in the World Whisky Awards and also the New World Whisky of that year, as judged by Jim Murray in his 2012 Whisky Bible suggests my friends are not alone in their Switzerlandadmiration.hasaround two dozen distilleries, a veritable explosion of production given that distilling grain was illegal up until 1999. Even Norway has ten distilleries.

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The Global Spirit

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For example, it turns out that not only can Belgium play soccer, they can make cracking whisky. The Belgian Owl Distillery in Hesbaye region of Belgium has made numerous awardwinning whiskies.

one is automatically transported to the moors and hills of Scotland, its barren, rugged islands and ancient castles. And of course, the wonderful distilleries that have made this glorious spirit so famous. Or perhaps one might consider Ireland. Naturally, the bourbons from America will play a role. The younger amongst us might immediately look to the East, to Japan and the exciting whiskies that are now standard. Perhaps patriotism will come to the fore and the exciting, emerging whiskies from Tasmania will spring to mind.

These days, that only scratches the surface of whisky-producing nations, though these do take pride of place in terms of output and history. As well as these ‘usual suspects’, estimates suggest that at least 25 nations now make whisky.

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Sand dunes might be a focus but the distillery, near the Sea of Japan and to the northwest of the old capital, Kyoto, is also within spitting distance of Mount Daisen, a volcanic peak.

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The distillery has no visitors’ centre and does not offer direct sales, all contributing to the extremely low profile it has managed to keep for so long. It releases ten single malts which appear under the Kurayoshi label and a further five grain whiskies under the Tottori label. The first of the whiskies, Kurayoshi Pure Malt Whisky, is a 100% malted barley Whisky, sourced from distilleries around Scotland, and forwarded to Japan, for blending with the local product. Their spirit is distilled in copper pot stills and aged in ex-Bourbon casks for at least three years. It is then bottled at 46% ABV. Whatever your definition of ‘emerging’, we can look forward to many more great whiskies in the coming years, and no doubt some will be from countries yet to produce a drop.

The malt received a score of 94.5 from expert, Jim Murray.

“MANY IN THE WEST HAVE NO IDEA OF THE EXTENT OR THE QUALITY OF THE SPIRITS INDUSTRY IN INDIA”

It means that the water used at the distillery has been seeping through volcanic stone for centuries, providing the unique character and contributing to the purity of the spirit produced.

Many in the West have no idea of the extent or the quality of the spirits industry in India, not just with whiskies but across the board. But whisky rules, occupying almost 60% of the spirits market in that country, which equates to around 175 million cases.

Radico Khaitan is India’s fourth largest spirits company. Originally known as the Rampur Distillery, the name used for its premium whisky, production has been going on for over half a century. Malted barley, for blends, has been produced since 1990, but the first malt whisky was only released to the world in 2016. It did not take long for word to spread and for aficionados to hear about this malt, ranked in the top five whiskies of 2017 in the prestigious San Francisco competition, picking up double gold.

Paul John is another highly regarded Indian producer of both single malt and single cask whiskies. They use Indian malted barley, imported Scottish peat, traditional copper pot stills crafted in India and charred American oak casks (first fill ex-Bourbon casks) for maturation. Headquarters is in Bangalore but the single malt distillery is located in Goa. They have offered blends since as far back as 1992 and made the decision to add single malts to their production in 2008. The high temperatures and humidity in Goa give the whisky its own inimitable characters, but this also means a much higher loss – 10 to 12% rather than the usual 2% – to the Angel’s share (evaporation).

These conditions also see whisky maturing much faster than in countries like Scotland, a commercial advantage if ever there was one.

Perhaps we should consider an emerging producer. The Matsui Shuzou Distillery, which was founded back in 1910, is located in Tottori, which is a coastal prefecture found in southern Honshu region. This is the least populated prefecture in all Japan, although everything is relative, and the region is best known for its sand dunes. In time, it might become more famous for the Matsui Shuzou Breweries, which also produces shochu and traditional sake. As well, of course, as whisky, although the whisky did come well after the shochu and sake.

Do we consider Japan as the home of emerging whisky? Surely not as these days, their whiskies are world famous and well known by anyone with even a passing interest in good spirits. And they have been for many years.

In 1918, sake maker Masataka Taketsuru, went to Scotland to learn how to make whisky. Arriving in war-torn Europe must have been the culture shock to end them all, but he apparently loved it. Not only did he learn his new trade, he married and even considered staying in Scotland on a permanent basis. The support provided by his new wife, Rita, who followed him to Japan from Scotland and his dream of making great whisky drew him back to his homeland in 1920. His return was not always plain sailing, with one entity closing and at one stage being shoehorned into another as a brewer (a position from which he resigned), he persisted, and his dreams were realised. He eventually made the first Japanese whisky. Masataka was determined to make whisky of the highest calibre.

Noexploredrinks.commatterwhatever happens to the Japanese whisky industry in the years to come, Nikka Whisky will always hold a cherished position – thanks to the man known as the ‘Father of Japanese Whisky’, Masataka Taketsuru.

In 1934, after leaving the brewery, Masataka began Nikka Whisky (originally called Dainipponkaju Co. – Dai Nippon Kaju, with the ‘Ni’ and the ‘Ka’ forming the name of the new enterprise), and established the first distillery at Yoichi, on the island of Hokkaido, well to the north – making it one of the very northernmost Japanese distilleries. It was an ‘interesting’ choice, especially back then, as the new distillery was a long way from everything that was convenient. Masataka believed, however, that this site was the closest to his experiences in Scotland and would produce the best local whisky. Here was to be found agricultural land that suited his purpose, peat and a good quality water supply. His first whisky was released in October 1940.

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VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS Masataka was far from finished. In 1963, he had the first Coffey stills to be employed in Japan imported from Scotland, imported to improve Nikka’s blends. A few years later, their Kashiwa plant was completed and then the Miyagikyo distillery, followed by the Tochigi plant. Nikka also have plants at Nishinomiya, Hirosaki and Moji. Masataka passed away in 1979, at the age of 85, and is buried in Yoichi next to his beloved wife, Rita, who was at his side until she passed some years earlier. After his death, Nikka remained in family hands for a period before being purchased by Asahi TheBreweries.distillery focuses on various styles of malt and has even been referenced as offering similar characters as Ardbeg. These whiskies provide an appealing oiliness not encountered elsewhere. The use of peat is also noticeable here (as one would expect as soon as any comparisons with Ardbeg are drawn). They still use Masataka’s original strain of yeast, which some believe was more likely to have been brewers’ yeast from the Sapporo brewery. The stills here are coal-fired, some

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The distillery, on the other hand, has taken a much more modern approach. Originally intended to be one and half times the size of Yoichi, it is now three times as large and one of the very few in Japan to work with both malt and grain, but even with its approach to malt, it has adapted as it best sees fit to utilise what is offered at its location. In addition, the warehouse experiments with different uses

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of the only stills in the world which can make this claim. Yoichi is all about tradition and respecting the legacy of Masataka Taketsuru.

The man currently at the helm and responsible for maintaining the Taketsuru philosophy is Tadashi Sakuma, Nikka’s master blender, a position he has held since 2012. He has worked hard to incorporate the use of the Coffey stills to their full advantage and led the charge with new products to realise that – such as Coffey Malt and Coffey Grain. He is also the man who led the move to NAS – no age Sakumastatements.hassuccessfully walked the tightrope, with his two distilleries, of traditional and modernity and the future for Nikka, in his hands, looks very exciting indeed.

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The Miyagikyo distillery is located in the north of the island of Honshu, near Sendai, built in a valley that is in an area that fresh clean air and Nikkawater.made the notable decision to withdraw almost all age statements from the bottles.

VISIT FOCUS of barrels, and indeed, styles of barrel. The results are evident in the more fruity, elegant styles produced. The grain distillery was established in 1999, at which time their Coffey stills were transferred to Miyagikyo.

This, in an age where such a statement is relied on by many drinkers keen to go with the older-is-better approach to their whisky, might seem a risk, but the team believe that this, in fact, frees them to bottle their product when it is at its absolute optimum, surely a good thing. In 1989, the company ventured back to Scotland, purchasing the Ben Nevis distillery.

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WHISKEYIRISHSLANE

The buildings date back to the 1750’s and required significant renovation to bring them up to standard required for a working distillery. Initially the brainchild of Lord Henry Mount Charles and his son, Alex Conynham, it was all made possible by the purchase in 2015 of Slane Whiskey by US company Brown Forman, makers of Jack Daniels. An investment of approximately 71 million dollars (Australian) and Slane Irish Whiskey Distillery was up and running followed by a launch across Ireland and now here in Australia.

Justexploredrinks.com45minutesnorth-west of Dublin and from under the shadows of the legendary Slane Castle sits the recently opened Slane Irish Whiskey Distillery and Visitor Centre.

Slane Castle is also famously the venue for an annual music festival that dates back to the early 80’s, hosting acts such as The Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Robbie Williams, The Rolling Stones and, of course, Ireland’s very own U2.

ADDRESS: N51, Slane Castle Demesne, Co. Meath, Ireland T: +353 46 903 0600 W: www.slaneirishwhiskey.com OPENING HOURS: Monday-Sunday: 10am-5pm TOUR DETAILS AND PRICING: One hour tour Adult €18.00 Seniors €16.20

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Just as whiskey benefits from its chosen casks, Brian Nation was matured for 10 years under the tutelage of former master distiller, Barry Crockett. Despite the daunting task of filling his mentor’s shoes, Brian emerged as a highlyregarded distiller in his own right. Brian joined Irish Distillers in 1997 after graduating with an engineering degree. He oversaw various projects in the environmental department, until 2002, when he began to work on some of Jameson’s most storied blends. In 2006, he became the first Irish Distiller to receive the Worshipful Company of Distillers award,

“I love travelling around the world to promote and educate people about Jameson. I love getting the opportunity to bring the Jameson message to the people”.

BRIAN NATION THE MAN AT THE HEART OF IRELAND’S MOST FAMOUS DISTILLERY

A gregarious character at the heart of the Jameson Midleton Distillery, Brian Nation’s enthusiasm for his job comes from meeting like-minded individuals who share his passion for the craft and skill that goes into creating an iconic range of whiskeys.

for achieving the highest IBD (Institute of Brewing and Distilling) exam results in the world. As head distiller, Brian is responsible for maintaining the quality of all new pot and grain distillates produced in Midleton. The monumental task of overseeing the production process from brewing to distillation comes with the fringe benefit of tasting the whiskey on a daily basis, to ensure the correct balance of flavours and unique pot still spiciness.

“Jameson is a single distillery whiskey; it’s a blend of a pot still whiskey and then a grain whiskey, both produced at the Jameson Distillery in Midleton. That is very important for me as Head Distiller - to ensure the quality of the product from grain to glass.” When asked what he enjoys most about his role, Brian is quick to mention, “it’s the strong team ethic, everyone is heading in the one direction.” As a team player, Brian has been instrumental in expanding the Midleton Distillery in recent years, always bringing fresh new ideas to the fore. He is a man grounded in tradition, and driven by a passion to ensure that the whiskeys of Midleton continue to be amongst the best in the world.

”I DIDN’T SET OUT TO WORK IN A DISTILLERY –IT WAS ALMOST BY ACCIDENT –BUT EVERACCIDENTPROBABLYTHEBESTTHATHAPPENEDTOME.”

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There was a time when Irish whiskey ruled the world. It has been through its ups and downs over the last century or two, but if not for the Midleton Distilleries, who knows where it would be. These are the distilleries which have carried Irish whiskey on their shoulders for a very long time. There is support from newcomers, or relative newcomers, today, but they would all, no doubt, acknowledge the debt they owe to the Old and the New Midleton distilleries. We refer to Old and New but in reality, one followed the other in chronological terms.

Located in Midleton, County Cork, the New is still Ireland’s largest distillery and is responsible for a great many of the country’s most famous whiskeys. Names like Jameson (the world’s largest selling Irish whiskey), Redbreast, Yellow Spot, Midleton itself, Writers Tears, Green Spot, Powers, The Irishman, and even gin, vodka and beer.

The 1960s saw a time of declining sales as well. In an attempt to stem the tide, in 1966, Irish Distillers Ltd, was founded by merging several separate distilleries, also including John Jameson & Son, John Powers & Son and the Cork Distilleries Company. The decision was taken to close existing distilleries in Dublin and Cork and to consolidate production. This would be done at a new, specially-built distillery. The site chosen was next to the existing Midleton Distillery (hence, ‘Old’ and ‘New’). Dublin had been ruled out as there was simply not room to expand next to the existing distilleries. Further expansion took place in 1972 when Bushmills, which was the only other distillery operating in Ireland at that time, joined the fold. It meant that, at that time, Irish Distillers was in sole control of all whiskey production. A far cry from the days of several hundred distilleries and 60 per cent of the world market, enjoyed over a century earlier.

In July 1975, the Old Midleton Distillery produced its last whiskey. A few days later, production began at the new operation. The Old Distillery had the world’s largest pot still, with a capacity of 31,618 gallons, as well as two more 10,000 gallon spirit stills and a Coffey still. The New Distillery had, at that time, three 75,000-litre pot stills and three column stills.

WHEN IRISH WHISKEY RULED THE WORLD

The Old Distillery (it is important to distinguish between the Old and the New Midleton distilleries) was founded as far back as 1825, by James, Daniel and Jeremiah Murphy. The building was in use before that, as a woollen mill. The brothers paid thirty thousand pounds – a huge sum in those days – for the building and converted it to use as a distillery. It quickly increased in importance and less than a decade later, it was employing more than 200 people and was producing 400,000 gallons. By the late 19th century, Irish whiskeys were in the doldrums and sales plummeted. The reasons, as they almost always are in such situations, were many and varied but most notably, the rise in popularity of blended whiskies and the Anglo-Irish trade wars hurt Irish production (scary to think that more than a century later, lessons have not been learnt). While the Midleton Distillery was swept along with the tide, they managed to do so much better than most and remained in production at all times.

As mentioned, the Distillery uses triple pot still distillation. There are now seven pot stills, each with a capacity of 80,000 litres. After running through three pot stills, the spirit has a strength of 83 - 85% ABV. But of course, this distillery produces a number of different whiskeys, each with their own character. Hence, procedures are not all uniform, especially, in relation to cuts from head to tails. For grain’s continuous distillation, Midleton has five old column stills and six newer, larger column stills.

The old distilleries? Old Midleton and Jameson’s Bow Street Distillery have both reopened, not as working distilleries but as visitor centres. Powers John’s Lane Distillery was not so fortunate, much of it demolished, though a small part of it avoided the bulldozers and now forms part of the National College of Art and Design.

Their whiskey is matured in a mix of American oak and European oak casks. The team at the distillery believe that the casks should not be allowed to 168 exploredrinks.com

The Distillery works in two ways. Grain whiskey is made in column stills and there is also traditional Irish single pot still whiskey from pot stills. Water, so vital in production, has always been sourced from the Dungourney River, once also its power supply – the giant waterwheel is still on site. Midleton uses brewer’s yeast for fermentation, which takes approximately 60 hours, giving a wash with an alcohol content of 10% - 12% ABV. Fermentation for grain whiskey distillation takes 90 - 100 hours, with an alcohol content of 13% - 15%.

A number of multinational corporations showed strong interest in Irish Distillers Ltd and in 1988, by way of a friendly takeover, Pernod Ricard took control. In 2005, Bushmills was sold to Diageo and a decade later, Paddy went to Sazerac, although production still takes place at the Midleton Distillery. In 2010, a further €200 million was tipped in to update operations, allowing for an increase in production to 64 million litres per annum.

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The following year, 2013, saw the launch of the oldest whiskey in the Redbreast range, ‘Redbreast 21’. Named ‘21’, it actually contains whiskeys up to 25 years of age. Redbreast master blender, Billy Leighton, sees the style as the epitome of the Redbreast sherry style and it is their flagship.

The last bottling of Redbreast, under the Gilbey’s banner, took place in 1985, and the following year, Gilbeys sold the brand name to Irish Distillers.

In 2005, ‘Redbreast 15’ was released. Originally for the 50th Anniversary celebrations of their French distributor, ‘La Maison du Whiskey’, this non chillfiltered whiskey was an immediate hit and was named by Jim Murray as the Whisky Bible’s ‘Irish Whiskey of the Year’. 2012 and another Redbreast hit the shelves, ‘Redbreast 12 Cask Strength’. It is bottled direct from the cask with no water added. This means that even though the Redbreast DNA is evident in each bottle, as each cask will differ ever so slightly in terms of alcohol strength, each release is marginally different.

A limited release in 2015 of just 2,000 bottles, the Redbreast ‘Mano a Lamh’ is the only one of their whiskeys to be matured exclusively in sherry butts. It is now seen as very much a collectors’ item. But they continued the theme in 2016 with the ‘Redbreast Lustau Sherry Finish’ edition. This bottling is initially matured in a mix of both bourbon and sherry casks for a period of nine to twelve years and then sees a final year in selected oloroso sherry butts from Bodega Lustau in Jerez, Spain. It has become a permanent addition to the Redbreast range. No doubt, lovers of Irish whiskey are anticipating more exciting and innovative releases in the years to come. In 2013, an Irish Whiskey Academy was opened in the grounds of the distillery. It offers a range of Irish whiskey appreciation courses, over one to three days, and also training for aficionados, journalists and members of the trade. The distillery also houses the official historical archives for the Irish Distillers. exploredrinks.com

dry and so, even when transported from their various locations to the distillery, they travel as fully made, and not disassembled, casks. On arrival, the sherry and port casks are filled immediately. The distillery can fill 70 to 80 casks simultaneously, while bourbon casks will be filled within one to three months. At this stage, everything is computercontrolled and monitored. On site, there are now forty warehouses, recently completed to expand the storage capacity. Needless to say, an operation this size making so many different whiskeys, and the numerous variations within them, make it impossible to fully cover all. If one had to pick just one, it is hard to go past the Midleton Very Rare. Before his retirement in 2013, master distiller Barry Crocker, had worked at the distillery for 47 years, 37 of them as master distiller, after arriving as an apprentice to his father. Much of the success of Jameson’s can be attributed to his efforts and releases such as the Midleton Very Rare in 1984 and the Single Pot Still Whiskeys of Midleton, beginning in 2011. Crocker was succeeded by Brian Nation. To celebrate Crocker’s career, and the 30th anniversary of Midleton Very Rare, a limited release of just 177 bottles of Midleton Very Rare 30th Anniversary Pearl Edition was issued, with a higher strength, 53.1% ABV. Midleton Very Rare is a non-age statement whiskey, blending pot still and grain whiskeys, and matured for between 12 and 20 years in American Oak barrels, previously used to house bourbon. The early examples incorporated whiskey from the Old Distillery, as time was needed to mature the requisite whiskey from the New Distillery. Every year, a new bottling is blended by the master distiller, who has his pick of the whiskeys in the distillery’s warehouses. The aim is “to produce the best whiskey possible”. It means that every year, the release will be different, and this makes them irresistible to both aficionados and collectors. Quantities are almost always less than 2,500 cases per annum. Every bottle is numbered and signed by the master distiller and comes in a wooden presentation box. More recently, Midleton have also released a number of single pot still whiskeys. Examples include a 30-year old Pure Pot Still, distilled in 1969 and released in 1999 and a 26-year-old Pure Pot Still, distilled in 1974, matured in oloroso butts, and finished for one year in a port pipe. It was released to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the Old Midleton Distillery. As well as such famous whiskeys as Jameson’s and many others, Midleton’s Distillery also produces another local favourite – Redbreast. Originally, it was part of the Gilbeys’ wine and spirits operation, with the first record of it appearing in 1912. It is thought that this was actually a reference to the Gilbeys ‘JJ Liqueur’ Whiskey 12-Years-Old and that ‘redbreast’ was a nickname for it, the Chairman of Gilbeys a well-known ornithologist. Redbreast gained some notoriety in the 1920’s, earning its own nickname of ‘the priest’s bottle’. The 1920s were tough times in Ireland, political and economic turmoil abounding. Few had the means to enjoy a fine whiskey yet the Irish clergy seemed to always have a bottle of Redbreast available. The distributors liked to think of it as a case of ‘spiritual and gastronomic enlightenment’. The average Irishman may not have been so charitable in his thoughts. Irish Distillers Ltd, at the time of its creation by the merger, decided to implement some changes in production and sales. Importantly, they decided that the day of selling bulk whiskey, ‘by the cask’, to wholesalers and retailers, who would then bottle and sell it themselves, would be phased out. They were looking to increase exports and also to increase the number of brands in their portfolio and so required the whiskey for their own plans. Gilbeys however, managed to persuade them to continue supplying their pure pot still whiskey for Redbreast until the closure of Bow Street Distillery in the summer of 1971.

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There followed a period of a decade where Redbreast was simply unavailable.

Finally, in 1991, Redbreast was given the proverbial make-over and it was relaunched as a 12-Year-Old, matured in a mix of sherry and bourbon casks. The new Redbreast was met with critical and popular acclaim.

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Jameson’sexploredrinks.comVisitor

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ADDRESS: Bow St, Smithfield Village, Dublin 7

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Centre is one of the most popular attractions in Ireland, not only with tourists, but doubling as one of the coolest bars in a city – that’s literally bursting with cool bars. You’ve just touched down in Dublin. You’ve never been there before and you know no one. What do you do? Well, a drink seems an obvious start but go one further. Why not visit the source? Both Jameson’s and Teeling distilleries have visitors’ centres for anyone interested in good Irish whiskey and they are most definitely must visits for any trip to the Old JohnCountry.Jameson is famous for opening the doors to the Jameson Distillery Bow St back in 1780. Today, the experience is better than ever. You can tour the distillery, enjoy a tasting of their premium whiskeys, get some guidance in blending a whiskey you can then take home with you, learn the dark arts of cocktail mixing and even taste whiskey straight from a cask in the warehouse. An imposing presence in Dublin for almost 240 years, what hasn’t this distillery seen? History buffs could hardly wish for a more entrancing experience. The blending masterclass, which is available seven days a week, takes 90 minutes and is fully hosted with a tasting of premium whiskeys as well as the blending exercise. Experts will take you through a series of their premium blends and explain “ingredients, craft and different flavour notes” and deconstruct them. Then there is the opportunity to blend your own.

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ADDRESS: 13-17 Newmarket, Merchants Quay, Dublin 8 T: +353-1-5310888

The next generation of Teeling family distillers are making their mark in the Liberties area of Dublin with the opening of the new Teeling Whiskey Distillery and Visitor Centre set to release its very own whiskey to the world this year

DISTILLERY FOCUS

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The Teeling Whiskey Distillery was the first new distillery in Dublin for over a century, exhibiting the heritage of pot still whiskey. However, this is hardly the first Teeling family connection with the whiskey industry as Walter Teeling established a craft distillery in the Liberties way back in 1782. And the Liberties is to where Teeling has returned. Tours are in English but private tours in various other languages can be arranged. For bookings, Thereservations@teelingwhiskey.com.TeelingIrishWhiskeygiftstore is the perfect place to conclude the tour. Exclusive Teeling Whiskey merchandise is available and there is the opportunity for patrons to fill their own bottles of whiskey from selected casks. Then drop by The Bang Bang Bar, open seven days a week, or the Phoenix Café for a snack, a coffee or a whiskey. The Bang Bang Bar is named after an infamous Liberties character “Bang Bang”, and offers the complete Teeling portfolio of whiskeys. They also offer specially created seasonal cocktails that work perfectly with the portfolio of whiskeys.

In 1887, following Molloy’s death, the distillery passed into the hands of the Daly family with Captain Bernard Daly in charge of the business. Captain Daly left the routine running of the distillery to one of his colleagues, Daniel E. Williams, who would become the major influence on the expansion and development of the distillery. The ‘D.E.W’ in Tullamore D.E.W represents the initials of Daniel E. Williams. Williams brought electricity to Tullamore in 1893, had the town’s first telephones installed and introduced motorised transport. He also ran a commercial empire throughout the Midlands including drinks businesses, importing tea, selling seed and grain, and a network of 26 general stores. But there were tough times for Irish whiskey - Prohibition in America and an economic war with Britain in the1930s didn’t help the industry. After World War II, Desmond Williams, grandson of Daniel E. Williams, used modern marketing techniques and re-established Irish whiskey as a world leader. Tullamore D.E.W has in more recent times undergone something of a revitalisation with sophisticated packaging, a fresh new look and feel and a major refurbishment and build of

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Tullamoreexploredrinks.comD.E.W’s

origins date back to 1829 when the Tullamore distillery was founded in Tullamore, County Offaly, both the emotional and geographic heart of Ireland as it’s claimed, founded by famed distiller, Michael Molloy. The location was well chosen because it was a rich agricultural and grain growing region, providing both the new barley and pure water essential to the creation of good whiskey.

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Today the Tullamore D.E.W product range includes Tullamore D.E.W original, a 10-yearold reserve and a 12-year-old special reserve (both triple distilled, and matured in bourbon and oloroso sherry casks), a unique 10-yearold single malt (matured in bourbon, oloroso sherry, port and Madeira casks) and the heritage Tullamoreblend.D.E.W is a unique blend of all three types of Irish whiskey - pot still, malt and grain whiskey – as distinct from other Irish whiskeys which mostly contain just two of these components. More people are drinking Irish whiskey around the world with current consumption growing at a rate of 10 per cent a year. There is little doubt that with its rich history and distinctive character Tullamore D.E.W is well placed to continue as one of Ireland’s most famous exports.

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the new distillery, bringing the whiskey home to Tullamore after more than 60 years. The new distillery opened in September 2014 and was the first distillery built on a ‘greenfields’ site in Ireland for over 100 years. The visitors centre had reopened to the public two years prior, situated in Tullamore town and attracting around 40,000 visitors per year.

174 exploredrinks.com ON THE TRAIL OF TASMANIAN WHISKY For a whisky-fuelled adventure of epic proportions, follow the dots to these and many other thriving distilleries around the Apple Isle. WORDS FRED SIGGINS

The idea for a distillery came when Peter’s rye crop produced more than he needed to feed the sheep. The solution was the first ever Tasmanian rye whisky, and it’s some of the best in the world. Belgrove is known for sustainability, with the stills running on biodiesel (made of leftover fryer oil from the local greasy spoon), and also for experimentation, using Tasmanian peat to smoke the grains, or making spirits from ginger beer. And while a lot of distilleries throw around terms like “artisanal” and “small batch”, Belgrove is the real deal.

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“ON WAY OUT OF KEMPTON, YOU CAN ALSO SWING BY OLD KEMPTON DISTILLERY (FORMERLY REDLANDS) WHERE YOU CAN INVEST IN YOUR VERY OWN TWENTY-LITRE BARREL OF TASMANIAN SINGLE MALT WHISKY. JUST BE PREPARED FOR A TWOYEAR WAIT BEFORE YOU CAN DRINK IT.”

YOUR

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Just a few years ago, if you wanted to make a pilgrimage to the best whisky distilleries in the world, you were in for a very long flight. But now you can tour the places where Australia’s craft whisky movement was born and continues to thrive and innovate, for the cost of a ticket to Tasmania. With pristine air and water, as well as some of the best grain-growing land in the world, it’s no surprise that Tasmanian whisky is recognised for its quality around the globe. Couple that with a booming hospitality and tourism industry, and all around the island you’ll find the tastiest things to eat or drink anywhere in Australia.

HELLYERS ROAD

Beginning in the north of the state (you can fly into Launceston or take the Spirit of Tasmania ferry from Melbourne), head west towards the beautiful town of Burnie. Situated on the north coast, this small community sports a stunning beachfront, and grassland so lush it’d keep the hungriest of cows happy. Which brings us to Hellyers Road Distillery. Founded by a group of dairy farmers in 1997, Hellyers Road is one of Australia’s longest running whisky distilleries, and a founding member of the Tassie scene. One of the first distilleries to use Australian Pinot Noir barrels to age single malt, Hellyer’s Road takes a uniquely Aussie approach to whisky making. The single malts produced here are also some of most widely available and best value, with a scale of production far more prominent than most of the state’s small craft operations. Here, you can take a guided tour to learn about the whisky making process and the history of the area, and even have the chance to dip your own bottle in wax – a truly special Tasmanian souvenir.

BELGROVE Heading south from Burnie through the central highlands (stop off for a hike up Cradle Mountain for breath-taking views), and on down through the middle of the state towards Hobart, you’ll go right past Belgrove Distillery near Kempton. The brainchild of farmer, engineer, and sculptor and all around good bloke Peter Bignell, Belgrove is one of the only genuinely grain-to-glass distilleries in the world, meaning every part of the process from growing the grains to hand-labelling the bottles happens here.

On your way out of Kempton, you can also swing by Old Kempton Distillery (formerly Redlands) where you can invest in your very own twenty-litre barrel of Tasmanian single malt whisky. Just be prepared for a two-year wait before you can drink it.

SHENE ESTATE South of Kempton on the road to Hobart stands Shene Estate & Distillery. This collection of gorgeous sandstone buildings is 199 years old and was built as the ostentatious country residence of early colonialist Gamaliel Butler.

Painstakingly restored by custodians and owners the Kernke family, the estate has only been opened to outside visitors within the last few years, and now includes a craft distillery within the grounds.

As well as a lovely gin, Shene produces a malt whisky that has been triple-distilled on Tasmania’s largest copper pot still. These production methods are inspired by the Irish style and result in a lighter, more refined spirit.

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Swing by for a tour of the stunning grounds while sipping on one of these award-winning spirits, and you might even see a polo game in action. It’s the closest thing you’ll get to the grand distilleries of Scotland here in Australia.

The distillery itself, located close to Hobart in the Coal River Valley, is currently closed for tours due to construction work, but keep an eye out for the re-opening soon.

LARK Once you hit Hobart, leave the car and nip down to the Lark Cellar Door for a nip of Tasmania’s liquid gold. This cosy spot right on the docks offers a staggering array of Tasmanian whiskies to try, as well as local beers and bottles of Lark for sale. Afterwards, you can continue exploring the culinary and cultural delights of Tasmania’s capital.

Founder of Lark Distillery, Bill Lark is the man who, back in the early 1990s, had a vision for Tasmanian single malt. But to get his product off the ground, he had to contend with an archaic law that had banned the distillation of spirits in Tasmania all the way back in 1838.

Many people don’t realise there was a thriving distilling industry in Hobart in the 1830s, as the colonists made use of the excellent barley and clean mountain water to produce local hooch.

But in 1838 Governor Franklin decided he didn’t like the effects these local spirits were having on the colony, so he banned their production outright. It’s a prohibition that would last for over 150 years.

Lucky for us, Bill fought the law, and whisky won, paving the way for Lark Distillery to open in 1992. He also came up with a uniquely Australian style of single malt that’s widely imitated by other distillers; using small barrels to impart intense flavours in a short period of time and making use of casks from Australia’s longstanding fortified wine industry.

SPRING BAY If your trip includes the spectacular East Coast of Tasmania, near Orford, you’ll find Spring Bay Distillery. One of newest distilleries in Tassie, Spring Bay is run by a husband and wife team producing lovely malt whiskies on a single 1,200-litre copper pot still. Located only 500 metres off the beach, this is a genuinely coastal distillery and the epitome of local craft. To get a tour, you’ll have to give them a bell ahead of time, but with a bit of warning, they’d love to show you around. While Tassie whisky has become big business in recent years, tiny, family-run operations like Spring Bay are still an essential part of the industry’s character. And considering how small they are, you’re unlikely to get a taste of this whisky anywhere else.

Established in 1994, Sullivans Cove has had plenty of time to perfect their single malts. Their spirits are matured for plenty of time too, producing on average the oldest whiskies in Australia by far. Being allowed to age slowly in full-sized casks for up to eighteen years (and counting), might be one of the reasons Sullivans Cove is so well-regarded both at home and internationally, consistently beating out whiskies from Scotland, Japan and the rest of the world at international competitions. The big one came in 2014 when their French Oak Single Cask won “World’s Best Single Malt” at the World Whiskies Awards. This year, they’ve backed it up with their American Oak Single Cask winning “World’s Best Single Cask Single Malt”. Not bad for a tin shed near the airport.

Sullivans Cove is open seven days for tastings and tours, and the passionate staff are full of great facts and stories. This is also one of the only places you’re able to leave with a bottle of one of the world’s most sought-after single malts, produced right here in Tasmania, Australia’s home for world-class whisky.

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Finally, on your way to fly home, stop in at Sullivans Cove Distillery. Located in an industrial park near Hobart airport, this tin shed surrounded by chain-link fence isn’t much to look at. But inside, the crew here are making the whisky that put Tassie on the map.

SULLIVANS COVE

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A Personal Invitation TASMANIA

I’ve been involved in the Tasmanian whisky industry for over 10 years. My father, Casey Overeem, founder of Overeem Distillery, was friends with whisky pioneer Bill Lark, who had the laws changed in 1992 so that small distilleries could produce whisky in low volumes. My Dad founded Overeem in 2007, which was the ‘fourth’ operating distillery in Tasmania – those before us were Lark, Sullivan’s Cove and Hellyers Road. Tasmania today has Australia’s largest concentration of whisky distilleries, boasting 37 distilleries across the state. It’s this concentration, as well as the quality now being produced, that’s seeing the island state be compared to the famed Isle of Islay in the spiritual home of single malt, Scotland. To many, Tasmania is now being labelled as the ‘Whisky Isle of Australia’. “Why Tasmania?” You may ask. There are many reasons why this small island state has become the epicentre of whisky production in Australia. The pure Tasmanian water, high- quality, rich oily barley, rye, wheat, oats and corn, and the cool climate are the perfect recipe for worldclass spirits. The success of the original four distilleries cannot be ignored either, as it has inspired and instilled confidence in an industry that 10 years ago didn’t exist. Recently at the Spring Bay distillery launch, I witnessed Cameron Brett proclaim he was merely, “standing on the shoulders of giants” – an indication of the level of respect held for the dedication and vision of the likes of Bill and AnotherDad.significant influence is the producers themselves. The strong relationships formed between my father, Bill Lark (Lark Distillery), Patrick Macguire (Sullivan’s Cove) and Mark Littler (Hellyers Road) during the birth of the Tasmanian whisky industry has had a lasting effect. What began as a few cleansing ales at the pub each month to discuss distilling techniques, results, ideas and the overall future of the industry, led to the creation of the Tasmanian Whisky Producers Association (TWPA). This group now boasts members from over 20 distilleries, whom all value and thrive on the camaraderie from which the association was initially built. Knowledge is freely shared, and distillery doors are always open.

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The last few years especially have also seen an enormous resurgence in the consumption of whisky, with a particular appreciation of quality, hand-crafted whiskies and the stories behind them. We have additionally seen a shift in the demographic buying and drinking the spirit, with a significant rise in the younger generation, particularly women, which I’m very excited about. Couple all of this with a state that’s lauded for its fresh produce, artisan products, clean, green, picturesque surrounds and the following booming tourism industry, and Tasmania really is the perfect place to produce this delicious liquid gold.

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WORDS JANE SAWFORD, NÉE OVEREEM

Tasmania – the whisky island of Australia! We are so incredibly lucky to be a part of such a fast-growing and exciting industry where the people are passionate, and the products are of exceptional quality.

one of the most significant challenges for the Tasmanian distilleries at present is meeting the increasing demand.

AWARDS & DEMAND Tasmanian whisky has won many highlyacclaimed national and international awards within its brief history, affording the state world recognition. It was in 2014 when Sullivan’s Cove Single Malt won ‘Best Whisky in the World’ in the World Whiskies Awards, that first made the world take notice of what we are producing here in Subsequently,Tasmania.

VISITATION

The beauty of the industry in Tasmania is the accessibility to the public that the majority of the distilleries offer. From the whisky enthusiast to the entry level novice, getting up-close and personal with the makers themselves in the distilleries and bond rooms and sampling product direct from the cask, is a reality. Considering the unique story, personalities and the warm welcome that each distillery offers, I’d recommend visiting as many as you can if you’re exploring the island! If you’re mainly planning to visit with the intention to taste and purchase some delicious single malt, then Lark, Overeem, Shene Estate, Sullivan’s Cove, McHenry’s, Nant, and Old Kempton all have product available, and are suitable for larger groups. However, if you’re organised and prefer a more intimate and informal experience, I’d recommend Belgrove, Spring Bay or Fanny’s Bay, who also have stock available. But be sure to book ahead, as these are only accessible by appointment. However, I’d definitely recommend visiting any of the other new distilleries if you have the chance! Many are producing fantastic white spirits while they patiently wait for their single malt to mature.

If, like many visitors, you assume you can drive around our beautiful state in only a weekend, and you find yourself short on time, there are some fantastic bars and retailers where you’ll find most, if not all, of these prized Tasmanian products. Here is the list of my favourite supporters:

Whisky takes time to mature and, unfortunately, you can’t wake up one day and decide, “Let’s double production today and meet the demand tomorrow.” If only! I’m excited to see how the industry will evolve over the coming years, as many new distilleries are opening up around the country, including my own! Together with my husband Mark, we founded Sawford Distillery Pty. Ltd. in 2016, commenced production in 2017 and are due to release our small-cask range of S&O Single Malt Whisky in early 2020. Exciting times ahead indeed!

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If you’re flying into Hobart International Airport, you’ll need at least 3-4 days to visit the distilleries in the south. Allocate more time if you can, as a dram is often accompanied by a story, and a story is usually followed by another dram! A similar time allowance is required in the north of the state as although there are fewer distilleries, there is more ground to cover.

Tasmanian ‘Independent Bottlers’ are also kicking some big goals for the industry! Heartwood, Dark Valley and Spirit Thief are the leading independent bottlers in Tasmania.

All of it originating from the founders before us. The industry is still in its infancy, and it is said that the Scots spill more than we make each year. I remember an analogy from Craig Johnstone (Scottish ex-Head Distiller at Lark Distillery) stating the privilege he felt to be attending a dinner that sat the four founders of the Tasmanian Whisky industry, and comparing that evening to how it would have looked in Scotland, many centuries ago, seated with the equivalent company. Imagine the generations to come that hear of tall stories of grandparents that visited distilleries and met figures such as Bill Lark, Patrick Maguire, Casey Overeem and those that carry their legacies... it’s an exciting time to be in whisky. In good spirits, Jane Sawford.

Tim Duckett, from Heartwood Malt Whisky, has been known to invite people into his private office and bond store and welcome them with a taste of his award-winning, cask strength, heartstarters. Be sure to snap up one of his elusive bottles if you get the chance. Or swing by Gold Bar and visit Ian, co-founder of Spirit Thief, I’m sure he might have a bottle, or two stashed behind the bar for that particular guest.

Launceston Bars: Saint Johns, Kingsway, Spirit Bar and Henry’s Bar. Best Retailers: Destination Cellars, 9/11, Drink Co., Cool Wines, Lark Cellar Door, Hop Vine and Still, Tasmanian House of Whisky, Robbie Browns.

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I am so incredibly fortunate to inherit an opportunity such as this - the chance to produce a product that is ideally suited to the island to which I belong, alongside a group of people that share similar values and passions.

Hobart Bars: The Glass House, Society Salamanca, Story Bar, IXL Long Bar, Lark Bar, Gold Bar, Salamanca Whisky Bar, Ettie’s Piano Bar, Mona Void Bar, The Den and a bar my husband and I recently opened, Robbie Browns.

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DISTILLERIES

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DISTILLERY

Lawrenny Estate is a 400-acre property located in Tasmania’s Central Highlands, just over an hour’s picturesque drive through the Derwent Valley, northwest of Hobart. Lawrenny Estate Distilling has been established as one of only a very few ‘paddock to bottle’ estate single malt whiskies in the world. The barley grains are grown and harvested from the Lawrenny fields, then malted on site before being mashed, fermented and distilled using the pure waters that flow through the estate. The first release of Lawrenny Whisky is expected in 2020. A range of award-winning Lawrenny Gin and Vodka products are available now across Australia. 6485 Lyell Highway, Ouse, TAS 7140 T: +61 438 966 020 W: Openwww.lawrenny.comtoVisitors:Mon-Sun: 10am-3pm, Cellar Door Sales - Everyday: 11am-3pm MUST TRY WHISKY: Lawrenny Van Diemen’s Gin “Distilling to me is an amazing platform on which to tell a story and in the product itself, there is the power to create more stories as it reaches people. I want the products I make to be a reflection of not only the environment in which they’re made, but the people who are a part of making it. It should invoke a feeling or an experience and make you treat it like something special and not just another liquid in a glass.”

LAWRENNY ESTATE

Joe Dinsmoor, Head Distiller

TASMANIA TOURS “After taking thousands of visitors myself to Tasmanian distilleries over the past few years and watching the growth and expansion of the industry, I realised we would need to build a team of storytellers who could tell the tale of Tasmanian whisky from the inside out. By working closely with the industry every week, we now have a team of six passionate individuals who have become industry specialist tour guides, ready to share their wealth of knowledge about Tasmanian whisky with our guests. Come tour with us.” Brett Steel, CEO/ Director and Guide.

TASMANIAN WHISKY M:CheckweekPublicwww.drinktasmania.com.auTOURSandprivatetourseveryfromHobart.thewebsitefordetails.0475000120.

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In January 2010, Peter Bignell found he had a surplus of rye grain he had just harvested. Over the next 12 months, he hand-built a small whisky distillery in the old horse stables on his farm, Belgrove. The various whiskies are made with grains, rye, oats, wheat, spelt and barley, that are grown at Belgrove, making them ‘paddock to bottle’ or ‘estate whiskies’. Every process, from malting to barrel ageing is aimed at maximising the best flavours, not alcohol yield. World-renowned Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible has awarded four Liquid Gold awards to Belgrove whiskies in the last three years. 3121 Midland Hwy Kempton TAS 7030 T: +61 409 144 560 W: MUSTByOpenbelgrovedistillery.com.autoVisitors:AppointmentTRYWHISKY: Rye Whisky 100% Rye

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“Brett has a passion and an in-depth understanding of our spirits and the distilleries like no other. His tours are as much a part of the industry as the distilleries themselves.” Bill Lark, Godfather of Tasmanian whisky.

“I enjoy being creative and travelling the world, carving sand and ice sculptures. I carry that creativity into whisky making by producing unique flavours. I do things a differently.”little

DRINKS

BELGROVE DISTILLERY

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Hobart Whisky

Devil’s Distillery is an unobtrusive, modern craft distillery housed in a 1951 building, which houses a grain grist mill, steeping tanks, a 1,200 litre mash-tun and double-skinned temperature regulated fermenters. Whisky distillation is handled with an 1,800 litre locally made copper pot still, and a 380 litre column reflux still creates our neutral, or vapour infused botanically flavoured spirits.

DEVIL’S

DISTILLERY

1 Gormanston Road, Moonah, TAS 7009 T: (03) 6165 1116 W: MUSTOpenwww.devilsdistillery.com.autoVisitors:ByAppointmentTRYWHISKY:

“Our grain growing climate and water gives us the means, our motive is to excel and the alcohol excise offers us the opportunity to work for the Government!”

Putting down the first whisky casks in 2015, initially filling small barrels from the famous Hillrock Estate Distillery in Ancram, New York State, Devil’s Distillery is preparing to launch their first release in August 2018.

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The concept of Hellyers Road Distillery was formed in a modest Burnie boardroom back in 1994. The distillery founders, a weathered but wily bunch of local dairy farmers charged with steering local milk cooperative - Betta Milk, decided single malt whisky production might be a worthy adjunct to their flourishing milk operation. With the blessing of their fellow shareholders, they duly built the southern hemisphere’s largest boutique distillery, nestled snugly between the turbulent waters of Bass Strait and the rugged wilderness of the world acclaimed Cradle Mountain region. Armed with some of the purest water, freshest air and best ingredients found anywhere, they began crafting award-winning whiskies that are now enjoyed on every continent in the world. Burnie TAS +61 6433 0439 to not only

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HELLYERS ROAD DISTILLERY

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153 Old Surrey Road,

create worldclass whiskies but create a world-class whisky business” Mark Littler AwardsADS2018-MaltSingleChampion VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS

W: MUST(ExceptOpenhellyersroaddistillery.com.autoVisitors:Mon-Sun:10:30am-4:30pmpublicholidays)TRYWHISKY: Slightly Peated after 10 Year ADD Champion Single Malt - 2018 Australian Distilled Spirits Awards “We aim

Corra Linn Distillery presents a spirit that embodies Tasmania’s clean air, unspoilt environment and gastronomic excellence, in a whisky that is sure to provide a memorable experience.

Corra Linn Distillery is a progressive enterprise that produces unique whiskies. The distillery has a hybrid pot still, and the still house has all the equipment for brewing including a gristmill, mash tuns and fermenters. A separate bond store with a bottling room is also housed on-site. The whisky produced is a result of the finest Tasmanian ingredients, delicately distilled using locally grown barley, pristine water and yeast. These are only some of the elements combined in the process of particular methods to produce a distinctive taste. The whisky is then stored in oak barrels sourced internationally, that reinforces the flavours during the ageing process. 93 Correa Drive, Relbia TAS 7258

CORRA LINN DISTILLERY

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Projected October release. Currently in port and sherry casks.

Phone: +61 418 135 150 W: MUSTOpenwww.corralinndistillery.com.autoVisitors:ByAppointmentTRYWHISKY:

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Killara

BRUNY ISLAND HOUSE OF WHISKY Bruny Island House of Whisky holds a spectacular collection of purely Tasmanian single malt whiskies, all for tasting - a true whisky experience. With currently 80 different expressions of Tasmanian single malts to taste, and specialising in Tasmania’s limited, rare and collectors releases, this is the whisky dream! to Single Cask release is, by far, the best representation of Tasmanian single malt whisky I have seen anywhere.” Lark, November 2014 Lennon Rd Island TAS 7150 +61 3 6260 6344 MUST11am-5:30Mon-Sun:Opentasmanianhouseofwhisky.com.autoVisitors:9:45am-5:45pm(summer)pm(winter)TRYWHISKY:

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KILLARA DISTILLERY Distillery is the first Australian distillery to be owned and operated by a second generation Australian distiller and a female! Started in 2016 by Kristy Booth-Lark, who has over 20 years’ experience in the industry, the distillery is in Hobart and will be launching single malt whisky in late 2018. Celebrating the differences between each barrel, Killara Distillery will be bottling each cask individually and each bottle will be numbered. Other spirits produced by Killara include brandy, Apothecary Gin, Apothecary Gin – Triple Juniper, Tasmanian Vodka and Eau de Vie. Negara Cres. Goodwood TAS 7010 T: +61 405 090 W: MUSTOpenkillaradistillery.comtoVisitors:ByappointmentTRYWHISKY:Distillery Single Malt Whisky great to be a second the my parents. being my

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OVEREEM DISTILLERY From the moment founder Casey Overeem made a promise to his Scottish counterparts to never compromise in the creation of a Tasmanian world class whisky, he dedicated himself to the pursuit of excellence. Eleven years later, Overeem emerged: a refined whisky of grace and style. A New World whisky crafted to rival the Old World. Every expression is single cask and handcrafted, ensuring that every bottling is unique. Every time you enjoy a glass of Overeem Single Malt Whisky you are not only savouring one of a kind; you are experiencing a one of a kind piece of Tasmania. Davey St, TAS 7000 T: +61 3 6231 9088 W: Port Cask has a particular way of warming you from the inside… that makes it unique. I think that’s why it’s so easy to connect with.” Rowles, Overeem Head

“Whisky doesn’t really become whisky until that cork is popped and someone pours it into a glass and enjoys it. It’s an experience, and I think that underpins why we do what we do.” Thomson, Lark Head Distiller

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MUSTOpenovereemwhisky.comtoVisitors:ByAppointmentTRYWHISKY: Overeem

The Nant Distillery, located in Bothwell in the Central Highlands of Tasmania, produces a discrete range of fine single malt whiskies. The distillery is housed on the historic Nant Estate, and its fine single malt whiskies are made using water from the River Clyde, which finds its source in snowmelt from Tasmania’s Highland lakes. The Nant Distillery embodies the rich history and the romance of the historic estate and couples it with a modern and comfortable distillery experience, providing the perfect backdrop to create exceptional single malt whiskies.

254 Nant Lane, Bothwell, TAS 7000 T: +61 3 6111 6110 W: MUSTWed:Mon-Sun:Opennant.com.autoVisitors:10am-3pmClosedTRYWHISKY:Nant Single Malt Whisky Port Cask 43 per cent

14 Davey Street, Hobart, TAS 7000 T: +61 3 6231 9088 W: MUSTFriSun-Thu:Openlarkdistillery.comtoVisitors:10:30am-7:00pm&Sat:10:30am-11:00pmTRYWHISKY:

NANT COMPANYDISTILLING

Lark Classic Cask 43 per cent

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Bill Lark began his journey over a simple conversation with his father-in-law and a whisky, and the founding of Lark Distillery in 1992 became a history-defining moment. Bill’s heart, passion, and adventurous spirit sparked not only a distillery, but an entire industry, and it’s this spirit that continues to drive Lark Distillery to this day.

LARK DISTILLERY At Lark Distillery, they believe in bringing together adventurous whisky drinkers to share a drink, have a conversation, and spark ideas. Ideas that could be the start of something.

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“Our whisky is produced and matured on the historic Nant Estate. Utilising locally sourced barley and water, our unique climate and location, we produce a truly special Tasmanian highland whisky.” Jack Sellers, Nant Head Distiller

DISTILLERY FOCUS

192 exploredrinks.com NONESUCH DISTILLERY Nonesuch is a family owned and operated distillery where Rex and his son (and co-distiller) Chris are committed to creating a whisky that is unique and memorable. Their Single Malts are due for release in late 2018 as single cask expressions. But as they believe flavours from grains including wheat, rye and corn are overlooked, they have created Nonesuch Grain Whisky. Rex started out as a Gin distiller so balancing flavours is his passion and working with different grains to produce this whisky appealed greatly. Chris brings it all together with “tweaks” in distillation and insightful cask selection. 491 Arthur Highway, Forcett, TAS 7173 T: +61 408 616 442 W: Opennonesuchdistillery.com.autoVisitors:ByAppointment

“Making great whisky on this amazing island is what makes us want to jump out of each

day.”

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The Distillery’s 93rd barrel won best Australian small cask single malt whisky at the World Whisky Awards in London in 2018. Regular releases include Small Batch Tasmanian Single Malt Whisky (matured in 20 and 100 litre Pinot noir, sherry or port casks) and Cask Strength Tasmanian Single Malt Whisky`. Upcoming special releases include a stringy bark barrel, red gum barrel, and botrytis cask maturation. In addition to distillery tours and a café, Old Kempton Distillery offers three-day distillery schools and 20 litre private barrel sales.

Robbie Gilligan

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26 Main St, Kempton TAS 7030 T: +61 3 62 593 058 W: MUST(ClosedOpenwww.oldkemptondistillery.com.autoVisitors:Mon-Sun:10am-4pmonpublicholidays)TRYWHISKY:

“Although I have lived in Scotland for most of my life, it was only once I visited Tasmania that I discovered my passion for whisky. The quality being produced here really excites me.”

Old Kempton Distillery is located in historic Dysart House, Kempton, 45 minutes from Hobart on the road to Launceston. The magnificent 32-room Georgian coaching inn, with a 22 horse convict brick stable, was built in the 1840s by William Henry Ellis. Ellis, a freed convict, was sentenced to transportation to Tasmania for embezzlement. While found guilty of embezzling six shillings, Ellis was alleged to have embezzled the far greater sum of 7000 pounds. The money was never recovered; some wonder whether it was used to build Dysart House...

Old Kempton Distillery –Small Cask Release (Port cask)

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OLD KEMPTON DISTILLERY

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LAUNCESTON DISTILLERY

Queen Elizabeth outside Hangar 17, leaving Launceston February 1954 CREDIT: State Archives Tasmania

“We enjoy sharing a whisky and we’re proud of the distillery we’ve built in the Hangar. After years of effort and plenty of local support, we’re excited to release whisky under the Launceston label” DistilleryLauncestonAmbassador,BrandAngus,

Single

Apera cask matured (French Oak, Australian style sherry

Chris Condon Chris Condon with

Launceston Distillery launched its first whisky in July 2018. Located in the heart of Tasmania at Launceston Airport’s historic Hangar 17, we produce hand-crafted single malt whisky. From grain to bottle everything happens under the one roof. Major equipment is Tasmanian made; the brewing equipment was inspired by the old Boags brewhouse, but our beautiful copper pot stills are the centrepiece. In the 1950s, Hangar 17 was home to Ansett-ANA when there was adventure associated with flying and nostalgia around a fine glass of whisky. Today, the Hangar provides the perfect home for a boutique whisky distillery. Hangar 17, 287 Evandale Road, Western Junction TAS 7212 T: (03) 6391 9140 W: MUSTOpenlauncestondistillery.com.autoVisitors:ByAppointmentTRYWHISKY: Malt,

SULLIVANS COVE DISTILLERY Located an easy 20-minute drive from Hobart city (or 10min from Hobart Airport), Sullivans Cove Distillery produces Australia’s most awarded Single Malt Whisky. Having twice won “World’s Best” titles for their whiskies, Sullivans Cove is the distillery that put Tasmania, and Australia on the world whisky map. Sullivans Cove makes rustic, full-flavoured single malt whiskies from 100% Tasmanian barley, which are on average the oldest whiskies being produced in Australia. 1/10 Lamb Place, Cambridge TAS 7170 T: +61 (03) 6248 5399 W: Opensullivanscove.comtoVisitors:Mon-Sun: 10am-3pm MUST TRY WHISKY: American Oak Single Cask Single Malt Whisky “Being one of the first producers of Australian single malt whisky, it has been a rollercoaster ride for over twenty years. From a shaky start to winning two “World’s Best” awards is an incredible achievement, and we’re so proud to make whisky that people around the world appreciate.” exploredrinks.com 195 VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS

SAWFORD DISTILLERY

“Whisky is a paradox.

Patriarch Drive, Kingston T: +61 418 399 077 W: MUSTOpenwww.sawforddistillery.comtoVisitors:ByAppointmentTRYWHISKY:

MCHENRY DISTILLERY

Located in the picturesque seaside suburb of Kingston, Sawford Distillery was born from union and a family legacy producing exceptional Single Malt Whisky in the Island State.

Beautifully simple, yet incredibly complex. My motivation to create such a spirit comes simply from my love of drinking it”

to be released in 2022

McHenry Single Malt Whisky

Australia’s southern-most whisky distillery sits at the base of Mount Arthur. Five natural springs provide all the water for the Distillery and this water becomes the heart of the developing spirit. The cool moist maritime climate is ideal for ageing and making this highly sought after Australian Single Malt Whisky. 229 Radnor Road, Port Arthur 7182 T: +61 3 6250 2533 W: MUSTmchenrydistillery.com.auTRYWHISKY:

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Focusing on a balanced, consistent and rich single malt spirit, Sawford commenced production in 2017 maturing in both French Oak ex - Australian fortified wine casks and American Oak ex - bourbon casks.

Founders, Mark and Jane Sawford (nee Overeem) share a passion and knowledge for a spirit that’s captured the fascination of their family for decades, resulting in the anticipation surrounding their first release - predicted to be available sometime in 2022.

Mark Sawford, Head Distiller“When asked what to mix my Whisky with, I always say to mix with good friends”

White Label provides a range of Client Opportunities tailored to suit various businesses

SPRING BAY DISTILLERY Spring Bay’s cool temperate coastal environment produces some of Australia’s finest seafood and cool climate wines. The location of the distillery is less than 500 metres from Spring Bay, also a perfect place to mature whisky, and for that whisky to take on the briny characteristics of its home. The influence of Spring Bay’s ‘terroir’ occurs mainly through the water used in the distillery combined with a copper pot still that produces a sweet malty spirit. This combination is what makes Spring Bay single malt uniquely Tasmanian. 6 Hoods Rd Spring Beach TAS 7190 T: +61 417 351 663 W: MUSTByOpenspringbaydistillery.com.autoVisitors:AppointmentTRYWHISKY: The Rheban Cask Strength Port Cask

“Our single malts are unique as they reflect the spirit of this place, the pristine waters of the East Coast of Tasmania.“ exploredrinks.com 197

“By offering contract brewing and distillation, White Label enables many more people to access our amazing quality spirit here in Tasmania” Anthony White, Head Brewer & Distiller

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WHITE LABEL DISTILLERY White Label Distillery is a game-changer in the Tasmanian whisky industry! Built in 2018, White Label is a contract brewing and distilling company located in Huntingfield, Tasmania. The company contract brews malt whisky wash and distils new-make spirit for clients, while also offering the opportunity to hand-select premium casks for storage and maturation of their very own Single Malt Whisky brand. The brewery houses 16 x 4,000L stainless steel fermenters and state-of-the-art mash tuns. The distillery houses 1800L wash stills and 800L spirit stills. The locally hand-crafted all-copper pot stills were selected in this capacity as this size has proven to produce the premium whisky Tasmania is renowned for. The secured, concrete bond stores can house thousands of barrels in an environment where the seasonal temperature is ideal for consistent maturation. With a highly-skilled team behind them, White Label provides a huge opportunity for customers to access Tasmanian Whisky and create their own brand, without setting up their own distillery.

Patriarch Drive, Huntingfield TAS T: +61 418 399 077 W: Openwhitelabeldistillery.com.autoVisitors:ByAppointment

1989Changing Perspectives The alcohol vapour is lighter than Aroma (organic compounds). The Cradle Glass forces the undesirable alcohol vapourout and retains the aroma in the center of the glass, precisely where your nose enters. This allows you to nose the full aroma while drinking Alcohol Vapour Aroma & Organic Compounds AERATES: Large bulbous base swirls the whisky. The Aeration forces the release of the aroma upwards RADIATES: Round bottom allows the Radiant heat from the hand to agitate the phenols and release the flavour MOVES: Rocking bottom extends the Movement to continue the release of the aroma ACCELERATES: Designed based on the vapourtheAromaPrincipleBernoullithenarrowneckconcentratestheandAcceleratesmovementoftheup EMOTES: The precise dimensions allows you to nose a high alcohol spirit without the alcohol burn going up your nose. Emotes the full flavour and back notes from all the beautiful products you drink in this glass. EXPELS: Wide pouting glass mouth pushes vapour up and Expels it outwards The Cradle Glass Enhancing your experienceThe Cradle Gla ss ® www.cradleglass.com E:rocking@cradleglass.com Enhancing your whisky experience

Since

Life’s indulgent experiences

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SHENE ESTATE & DISTILLERY

Shene Estate, located 15 minutes from Mona, is an iconic 1819 colonial property with links to the British Royal family and Vice-Regal representative Lachlan Macquarie. Shene Estate played an important role in the development of the colony as an agricultural and pastoral holding and continues to remain relevant to this Establishedday. in 2014, Shene Distillery introduces a new exciting chapter to the property. Shene Estate is home of the Kernke family who melds their passion for heritage conservation by making fine whisky. When you raise a glass of our whisky, you are helping to conserve an iconic Australian Estate 76 Shene Road, Pontville. TAS 7030 Phone: +61 432 480 250 Website: www.shene.com.au Open to Visitors: By appointment MUST TRY WHISKY: Mackey Single Malt, Tawny cask matured (French Oak, Australian style port).

“Shene Estate and Distillery prides itself on perfecting age-old brewing and distilling techniques to produce the highest quality award winning triple distilled Irish style and double distilled Scottish style whisky’s.” David Kernke

DISTILLERY FOCUS

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The Old-Fashioned whiskey cocktail started it’s life in the 19th century as a way to enjoy a whiskey throughout the day at a lower ABV than the straight whiskey itself. By combining, sugar, water and aromatic bitters with a good rye or Bourbon whiskey, the Old Fashioned cocktail is a pure delight for the senses. It has undergone a recent renaissance in popularity helped by the classic cocktail revival trend as well as through the hugely popular Mad Men television series.

HOW TO MAKE AN OLD FASHIONED

• Always use fresh squeezed lemon juice when called for in the recipe, anything less will ruin the taste.

STEP 1 Add a sugar cube to an Old-fashioned glass and hit it with 2 dashes of Angostura bitters.

WORDS AND RECIPES BEN DAVIDSON PHOTOGRAPHS RYAN STUART

• Get yourself some good quality bar tools like those from Über Bar Tools or Bar Geek.

• Always use good quality whiskey or whisky in the cocktail like some of the one’s shown here.

STEP 2 Add a bar spoon of cold water and break down the sugar cube with a flat ended bar spoon.

STEP 3 Add a healthy measure of your choice of whiskey and a large ice cube or smaller cubes of ice. Stir very well for at least a minute, to get the required dilution, chilled temperature, as well as integrating all the ingredients together.

• Always use a beautiful glass to serve it in, like glassware from the Spiegelau Perfect Serve collection seen here.

STEP 4 Garnish with an orange peel twist and a Maraschino cherry and serve immediately.

200 exploredrinks.com Many classic cocktails from before and during the ‘Golden Age’ of the cocktail, used American whiskies like Rye or Bourbon to soften and sweeten the punch of a big cask-strength whiskey - in drinks like the Mint Julep, Whiskey Sour or Old Fashioned. A little later on, bartenders also started using Irish and Scotch whiskies in cocktails, which bring their own set of soothing flavours to the mix. These Classic Whisky cocktails have stood the test of time because of their elegant simplicity and allowing the whisky to be the hero of the cocktail. When deciding to make cocktails at home there are a few important things to consider:

CLASSIC Most whiskies can be enjoyed neat, on the rocks or with a splash of water, just as the creators had perhaps intended. Sometimes though, the occasion calls for something a little more fancy, and that’s where a classic whisky cocktail is what’s needed.

• Always use good quality ice. We used ice from the Bare Bones Ice Company, based in Sydney. They can supply crystal clear ice that takes the cocktail to a higher level.

Whisky

COCKTAILS

exploredrinks.comDRINKS201OLD WHISKEYFASHIONEDCOCKTAIL GLASS: Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS: 60ml Woodford Reserve Rye Whiskey 2 x Dashes Aromatic bitters 1 x Sugar cube 1 x Orange peel twist 1 x Maraschino cherry METHOD: Add the sugar cube and aromatic bitters to a cocktail stirring glass and press with a flat-ended bar spoon. Add whiskey and ice and stir well for at least one minute. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over a large cube of ice. GARNISH: An orange peel twist and a Maraschino cherry

202 exploredrinks.com SAZERAC GLASS: Old Fashioned glass INGREDIENTS: 45ml Southern Comfort Black Whiskey 15ml Cognac 5ml French absinthe 2 x Dashes Peychaud’s bitters 2 x Dashes Angostura bitters METHOD: Add all ingredients to a cocktail mixing glass and stir gently with ice. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass. GARNISH: Lemon peel twist

exploredrinks.comDRINKS203NEW YORK SOUR GLASS: Double Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS: 45ml Michter’s Rye Whiskey 30ml Fresh lemon juice 20ml Red wine 15ml Sugar syrup 15ml Egg white METHOD: Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker with a large scoop of ice. Shake vigorously until fully mixed together. Strain into a Double Old Fashioned and add a large cube of ice. GARNISH: A slice of orange and a Maraschino cherry

204 exploredrinks.com HONEY & GINGER TODDY GLASS: Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS: 50ml Johnnie Walker Double Black Scotch Whisky 75ml Hot water 10ml Fresh lemon juice 10ml Honey 1 x Cinnamon stick 1 x Slice of ginger METHOD: Add ginger to an Old Fashioned glass and press with a flat ended bar spoon. Add remaining ingredients and stir gently. GARNISH: Cinnamon stick

exploredrinks.comDRINKS205BLOOD & SAND GLASS: Coupette INGREDIENTS: 45ml Chivas 18YO Scotch Whisky 15ml Sweet vermouth 15ml Cherry Heering liqueur 30ml Fresh orange juice METHOD: Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake with a large scoop of ice. Strain into a cocktail glass over a large cube of ice. GARNISH: Orange peel twist

206 exploredrinks.com MINT JULEP GLASS: Copper cup INGREDIENTS: 60ml Woodford Reserve Double Oak Bourbon 10ml Sugar syrup 1 x Large bunch of fresh mint METHOD: Add ingredients to a metal julep cup and stir gently with a large cube of ice until frost appears on the cup. GARNISH: Large bunch of mint sprigs

exploredrinks.comDRINKS207WHISKY COLLINS GLASS: Highball INGREDIENTS: 60ml The Singleton of Dufftown Scotch Whisky 30ml Fresh lemon juice 15ml Sugar syrup 90ml Fever Tree Soda Water METHOD: Add ingredients to a highball glass. Add an ice spear and stir gently. GARNISH: Lemon wheel

THE SMOKY ROB ROY GLASS: Coupette INGREDIENTS: 45ml Talisker Storm Scotch Whisky 15ml Sweet vermouth 2 x Dashes Aromatic bitters METHOD: Add ingredients to a cocktail mixing glass and stir gently with ice. Strain into a cocktail glass. GARNISH: Maraschino cherry 208 exploredrinks.com

exploredrinks.comDRINKS209WHISKY SOUR GLASS: Double Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS: 60ml The Macallan 12YO Double Cask Scotch Whisky 30ml Fresh lemon juice 15ml Sugar syrup 15ml Egg white METHOD: Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker with a large scoop of ice. Shake vigorously until fully mixed together. Strain into a Double Old Fashioned glass and add a large cube of ice. GARNISH: An orange peel twist and a Maraschino cherry

IRISH COFFEE GLASS: Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS: 50ml Jameson Black Barrel Irish Whiskey 75ml Hot black coffee 10ml Sugar syrup 30ml Lightly whipped cream METHOD: Add the first three ingredients to an Old Fashioned and stir gently. Carefully layer the lightly whipped cream onto the surface over the back of a bar spoon. GARNISH: Coffee beans

FRENCH MANHATTAN GLASS: Martini glass INGREDIENTS: 45ml Buffalo Trace Bourbon 15ml Sweet vermouth 5ml French absinthe 2 x Dashes Aromatic bitters METHOD: Add ingredients to a cocktail mixing glass and stir gently with ice. Strain into a cocktail glass. GARNISH: Maraschino cherry

212 exploredrinks.com MORNING GLORY FIZZ GLASS: Highball INGREDIENTS: 60ml Dewar’s 15YO Scotch Whisky 20ml Fresh lemon juice 5ml French absinthe 10ml Sugar syrup 10ml Egg white 60ml Fever Tree Soda Water METHOD: Add the first five ingredients to a cocktail shaker with a large scoop of ice. Shake vigorously until fully mixed. Strain into a highball glass and then add soda water. GARNISH: Lemon peel twist PENICILLIN GLASS: Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS: 60ml Dewar’s 15YO Scotch Whisky 30ml Fresh lemon juice 30ml Ginger & honey syrup 10ml Peated whisky METHOD: Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake with a large scoop of ice. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over a large cube of ice. GARNISH: Cube with crystallised ginger

exploredrinks.comDRINKS213BOUDLEVARDIER GLASS: Old Fashioned INGREDIENTS: 30ml Wild Turkey Bourbon 20ml Campari 20ml Sweet vermouth METHOD: Add ingredients to a cocktail mixing glass and stir gently with ice. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass over a large cube of ice. GARNISH: An orange peel twist

A highball is an old fashioned name of a refreshing long drink that is back on trend. They are often lengthened with soda water, tonic water or dry ginger ale. A highball provides a refreshing and less intense whiskey drink when combined with other ingredients as well as adding subtle flavours, balance and a little complexity. There is no limit to what can be used to make a Highball, so you can be as inventive as you like! Here’s a few to get the creative juices flowing. KENTUCKY BUFF INGREDIENTS: 30ml Buffalo Trace bourbon 30ml pink grapefruit juice 90ml Fever Tree dry ginger ale METHOD: Add ingredients to a highball glass and gently stir with ice. GARNISH: Garnish with slice of grapefruit

WHISKY HIGHBALLS

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DRINKS STARWARD SONIC INGREDIENTS: 30ml Starward whisky Wine Cask finish 10ml crème de cassis 10ml verjuice 45ml Fever Tree soda water 45ml Fever tree tonic water METHOD: Add ingredients to a highball glass and gently stir with ice. GARNISH: Garnish with green grapes NEW HIGHBALLORLEANS INGREDIENTS: 30ml Southern Comfort Black 10ml fresh lemon juice 10ml peach liqueur 5ml French Absinthe 90ml Fever Tree soda water METHOD: Add ingredients to a highball glass and gently stir with ice. GARNISH: Garnish with star anise TEELING’S SPRITZ INGREDIENTS: 30ml Teeling Small Batch Irish whiskey 20ml Lillet Blanc 90ml Fever Tree dry ginger ale METHOD: Add ingredients to a highball glass and gently stir with ice. GARNISH: Garnish with slice of orange Starward Sonic New Orleans Highball Teeling’s Spritz exploredrinks.com 215

216 exploredrinks.com Welcome to our Whisky Cabinet where we share with you our thoughts and evaluations on the excellent whiskies we have access to, through our brand and trade partners. Our drinks curator, Ben Davidson of Bespoke Drinks assembled some of the finest and most loved whiskies from around the world that are available in Australia, and asked respected independent whisky experts to taste and evaluate the whiskies under a blind tasting conditions. The tasting notes submitted by the Whisky Cabinet expert tasters gives us an excellent insight into the flavours and aromas as well as the overall perceived quality, based on the style and substance of each whisky or whiskey. WHISKY CABINET TASTING EXPERTS: ASH PINI | Editor BEN DAVIDSON | Drinks Curator JAMES BUNTIN | The Whisky Ambassador MATT WOOLER | Dram Nation MATT BAILEY | SMWS KEN GARGETT | Spirits Writer YAO WONG | The Elysian, Melbourne GEOFF FEWELL | Speakeasy Group, Melbourne DIMITRI RTSHILADZE | Mechanic’s Institute, Perth STUART MORROW | The Baxter Inn, Sydney Slainte! ASH. CABINETWHISKYTHE

THE GLENLIVET

21YO RESERVA RUM

SINGLE MALT WHISKY GLENFIDDICH

‘NADURRA’ FIRST FILL SELECTION

MALT Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 46.0% | RRP $95 Very pale in colour, think paw-paw yellow . This single malt has real character. An exciting complex rugged style. Reminds one of wild heather and barren rock. Intense. Nuts and smoke. A no-prisoners, serious malt. Some spice and even some teak. A finely balanced and spirited dram with a long and nicely balanced finish. KG 96 Pale straw colour with aromas of earthy sooty smoke, clean and light apple sweetness, followed by a palate of smoky white oak with a grassy floral sweetness and hints of straw. The Finish long and refined with vanilla caramels and malty brioche. I would love to have this with a selection of cheeses like a creamy light blue or a mild washed rind. JB 94

Heavy sweet vanilla oak and carbon paper aromas. Typical bourbon cask style fruity love yet mildly nutty. A good level of proof gives a high spirit effect Spicy and wax driven with malt, apple flesh and vanilla sweetness overall before a sharp metallic tang hammers home. Long, drying and fresh with one mighty spicy punch to the throat. While sharpening your favourite Scottish Claymore great sword. MW 90 Finally some cask strength! Very light and un-peated on the nose. No burn at all however so perfect integration of cask and spirit regardless of age. Clearly an ex-bourbon cask. Hot sponge cake on the palate with notes of macadamia nut, white sugar dusting, red apple skins. Finish is long and huge. Love it. Neat, drop of water, and in a proper copita. MB 90

12YO Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $89 Dark golden colour. Aromas of red apples, tinged with ginger spice and oloroso sherry sweetness. On the palate the aromas translate into a full bodied mouthfeel, with orchard fruit sweetness, hints of dark chocolate and raisins, robust malty character and a nice smattering of sweet sherry notes all the way to a deliciously long finish. BD 88

CASK FINISH Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 43.2% | RRP $260 Deep gold colour. Aromas of Demerara sugar, tropical fruits, molasses. Rich and complex palate, filled with brown sugar, banana, toffee. A generous mouthfeel. As it develops I’m getting a coffee flavour. A whisky to be savoured, take your time and enjoy. AP 94

BENRIACH 10YO ‘CURIOSITAS’ PEATED SINGLE

Light Yellow gold colour with aromas of Fresh banana, tropical fruit, green mango pineapple skin and tarragon. On the Palate - Werthers originals, light pine or balsa wood, sweet liquorice and redcurrant marshmallows. The Finish is delicate light buttery to the end I would smash this with a pavlova or a fruit salad and cream. JB 87

Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $120

CASK STRENGTH Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 63.1% | RRP $125

LONGMORN DISTILLER’S CHOICE

ABERLOUR

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SCOTCH WHISKY

TO THE ORIGINAL

A fitting tribute to our founder George Smith’s original vision. Paying homage to the unique fruity style he first envisioned back in 1824 and for which we’re still renowned today. SINGLE MALT. BACK

THE FOUNDER’SGLENLIVETRESERVE, IT ALL COMES

21YO ‘WINTER STORM’

LAGAVULIN

warm earth notes, minerally. But the real character here is the richness, the fruitcake notes and hints of chocolate. This is a Christmas whisky if ever there was one. Supple and creamy. Good spirit but nicely balanced. The impression is of notes not dissimilar to an aged Rutherglen muscat or PX sherry. The intense plum pudding notes are maintained for the long haul. Love it. excellent length. KG 95 Mahogany coloured with aromas of Chocolate Oloroso sherry and french polish. On the Palate there is Stewed fruit chutney,rich fruit cake and salty chocolate truffles. The finish is Amazingly long multi layered and refreshingly deep. Best enjoyed At the end of the evening with special friends or to toast that special occasion JB 97

GLENFIDDICH

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Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $350 Light caramel, copper and hues. The aromas are rich and complex on the nose, an orchestra full of vanilla, honey and tropical fruits. On the palate it has a complex mouthfeel that delivers a rich and balanced experience. Touches of cinnamon and peppery spices complete a very pleasurable dram. The finish is complex with a slight orange peel bitterness that balances the rich finish. A superb whisky! AP 95

A drop of water reveals more depth, with rockmelon and muscovado coming to the front.

A hint of smoke and salt. Would go great with cured meats and cheese platter. SM 90

18YO Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $125 Deep Golden in colour. Aromas of Christmas cake, butter and caramel sweets. Flavours of ginger and vanilla, dried fruits and almonds. Deliciously elegant across the palate, the whisky slides across the taste buds and delivers rich and full flavours. Medium to long finish. Everything you’d expect in a classic Speyside single malt. Shows signs of plenty of age. Delicious! AP 89

16YO SINGLE ISLAY MALT Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $110 Golden colour. Aromas of Iodine! Peat reek and salt that opens up to a creamy vanilla note. A slight greenness like raw asparagus or seaweed. Iodine carries through to the palate. A pleasant sweetness, with a salted butter note coming through. Plenty of maritime character. This would be a great finisher to the night. Campfire type whisky that will keep you warm on a winter night. Would go great with a dark chocolate torte. SM 88

Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $135 Pale gold colour. Aromas of Fruitcake, raisins and stewed apple, quite rich and exotic. Spiced mid-palate, Demerara sugar – rich and complex –delicious and generous. Faint hints of chocolate and faint hopiness on the medium to long finish. AP 92

GLENFIDDICH

THE GLENLIVET ‘NADURRA’ OLOROSO

CASK STRENGTH Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 60.7% | RRP $110 Pale Bronze in colour. Aromas of hazelnuts, walnut shells, leather books. Signature sherry. ABV is done well, and doesn’t stand out. On the palate there are notes of Bosc pears, ripe apricots, lychee, dried mango, redcurrant jelly, burnt caramel, violet crumble, giving waves of flavours and texture. Apricot brandy, treacle, toffee apple, wine gums, Airy to oily across the palate as the high ABV dries the mouth and begins to take over. The finish needs cask sweetness to carry this here, not more time, just better oak. Very nice cask strength dram! GF 88 Deep Golden in colour with a faint whiff of highland peat up front gives way to crème brulee, honey and cereal notes. Given time orchard fruit, namely pear, notes appear. At bottling strength it is all poached pear and vanilla leading to some signature sherry dryness.

GLENDRONACH 21YO PARLIAMENT Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 48.0% | RRP $250 Dark, dark mahogany colour. There is obvious aged material here. Mature and complex. Some Old gold, though at the paler end of the range. A little like lemon blossom. Some florals and a hint of a smoky note. Old furniture. It is still just a little muted and opens with time in the glass. Mustard seed spices. Pleasant but is a little broad – could do with more focus. Enjoyable but not the most complex of malts. Lots to like if one is not being super-critical. A mid-length finish. KG 88

BENRIACH 10YO Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $70 Pale lemon/orange. Similar colour to an old cricket bat. This is a little muted and closed at this stage. Open it up with a drop or two of water. There is a little treacle and even warm earth with a hint of pine forest freshness. A lovely creamy texture. There is a pleasing malty note, but certainly not overwhelming at all. Some citrus and floral touches. All very attractive Medium length and it lingers with a very soft finish. KG 90

GLENFIDDICH IPA EXPERIMENT

Distilled and bottled by Buffalo Trace, Frankfort, KY, USA. Imported and distributed by SouthTrade International www.southtradeint.com.au

In Kentucky, buffalo carved a pathway followed by early American pioneers. On the spot where the buffalo migration route crossed the Kentucky River, this National Historic Landmark has been making legendary bourbon whiskey for over 200 years. Today, Buffalo Trace crafts the best collection of bourbons and whiskies in the world by honouring tradition and embracing change.

THE CLASSIC LADDIE UN-PEATED Region: Islay, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $99 Pale Golden colour. Creamy aromas, bold, soft smoke, medicinal, cashew nuts, button mushrooms, forest floor. Rich palate, oily, a bit young, grassy, oxidised citrus, sour fruits on the finish. Mild sharpness on the finish, pomelo, hints of bitter citrus pith…. A light metallic touch on the finish? Straight or with water. YW 75

AILSA BAY SWEET SMOKE SINGLE MALT Region: Lowlands, Scotland ABV 48.9% | RRP $100 Pale golden colour with aromas of distant peat and heather moss with sweet notes of stonefruit and citrus and faint vanilla coming through. On the palate, a fine balance of subtle brine and distant campfire with the sweetness of orange and crème anglaise. The lifted alcohol is nicely balanced with the flavours to give a very satisfying dram. Best enjoyed neat or with a little ice. BD 89

THE BALVENIE 12YO DOUBLE WOOD Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $85 Yellow gold in colour. Aromas of vanilla, honey and light oak sweetness. On the palate there are notes of raisins, dried fruit and gentle spice. Lovely notes of nutmeg and cinnamon come through on mid-palate, with a spicy, sweetness that still allows the whisky to have a slightly dry and medium length finish. AP 86 ABERLOUR A’BUNADH Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 59.8% | RRP $140 Dark mahogany in appearance. The aromas are Christmas cake in a glass. Dates combined with spices, cloves nutmeg, star anise and cinnamon with burnt orange peel oils in the background. On the palate there are notes plums, black cherries with dark chocolate, which coat the mouth with full bodied sweet sherry and balanced oak woven together. A cask strength flavour tour de force that finishes full of exotic spices and oak that leaves the mouth salivating for more. Perfect in a tasting glass with 5ml of cold water. BD 94

15YO SOLERA RESERVE Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $120 Deep gold colour. Aromas of dried fruit and spice, vanilla and a rich oakiness. A nice viscous and slightly oily mouthfeel and a lovely opulent palate of fruitcake and sherry sweetness with raisins and dried apricot. Finish is long and complex with a slightly drying oaky and rich sweetness. AP 90

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TAMNAVULIN

DOUBLE CASK Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $65 Very full bodied with lots of freshly picked casks, rich and sweet spirit with both bourbon and sherry influence shining through. Ever-so-slight hint of sulphur and driftwood, then mango and dessert cream. Brown sugars on the palate and nicely oaky on the finish. As an intro to classic single malts. MB 85

GLENFARCLAS

THE BALVENIE 14YO CARIBBEAN CASK Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $145 Rich golden in colour. Spicy, full and sweet dried fruits, hints of rum and raisins. On the palate there’s a powerful mouthfeel with a combination of tropical fruits, vanilla and honey. There’s a long finish with plenty of complex spice and fruits. AP 88

BRUICHLADDICH

THE BALVENIE 17YO DOUBLE WOOD Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $180 Rich gold in colour. Sherry sweetness on the nose, with dried fruits. Forceful yet elegant. Plenty of spices and dried fruit, a warmth carries the flavour from front to back effortlessly. Chocolate and creamy texture. Rich and generous, the sweetness is delivered in balance AP 88

GLENFIDDICH

DRINKS

105 CASK STRENGTH SPANISH OLOROSO SHERRY CASK Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 60.0% | RRP $140 Dried fruit and a big hit of alcohol, followed by lovely dried fruits, dates, and sweetness. With water it is more of a sherry and fruit affair. Still a hint of higher alcohol burn which carries the sherry flavours for a long time. When it disappears you are left with an oily dark fruit finish. Straight, and then a dab of water to reduce the burn. Definitely one to enjoy straight for the more seasoned drinkers DR 93

Lot No. 40 is the personal obsession of our Master Blender, Don Livermore. He ensures it’s made the way rye whisky should be — one batch at a time in a single copper pot still, aged in virgin oak casks to perfectly balance the rye flavour. It’s details like these that reflect Don’s ongoing obsession to craft the world’s finest rye whisky. To find out more visit lot40rye.com

Unapologetically Canadian 100% Rye Whisky. Please enjoy our drinks responsibly.

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Region: Highlands, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $100 Medium golden amber in colour. Aromas of fortified wine cask influence, grapefruit peel, earthy spices, raisins, richer stewed fruit, touch of sulphur, dusty cupboards. On the palate is marmalade, orange blossom honey, some stewed stone fruits, meaty, cloves, semi dried prunes and hints of blueberry, followed by a medium long finish. Straight or over ice. YW 86

GLENLIVETTHE

GLENFARCLAS 15YO SPANISH OLOROSO CASK MATURED Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 45.8% | RRP $145 Deep golden with touches of mahogany in colour. Aromas of dried fruit and nuts, as the intense and powerful oloroso sherry cask aging is revealed.

THE SINGLETON 12YO SINGLE MALT OF DUFFTOWN Region: Dufftown, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $75 Dark Straw colour. Aromas are light and fruity, lots of orchard fruits, red apples, fresh citrus peel, cut grass, hints of pineapple. It has a malty palate, oiliness that lightly coats the mouth, caramel, good vanilla kick with a lovely floral finish and medium length. Best enjoyed Straight or over ice. YW 88

Region: Highlands, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $150 Dark and sexy amber colour with big aromas of dried fruits, a bit of funk but in a good way, hidden alcohol. You pick up what you would assume is a different cask type rather than American oak, I’d guess at potentially sherry wood. Sweet upfront, transforming to malt and a treacle, dries out for a bit then comes back with a date like sweetness. The finish is long, sweet and dry. Left wanting more. In a glass, into your mouth. DR 94

17YO SINGLE MALT Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 46.0% | RRP $175 Light, straw-like appearance. A tantalizing nose; apple juice, black tea and cinnamon. A honey sweetness, beautifully balanced and powerful mouthfeel. Develops into more cinnamon with butterscotch and oaky sweetness and buttery texture. Medium-length and complex. Honeysuckle and herbs – again well balanced. A cracking Speyside single malt with plenty to offer that is not overpowering. The word to describe this whisky is: balance.

PROJECT XX Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 47.0% | RRP $150 Bright gold in colour. Fresh and lively, lots of fruit, ripe apples apricots and pear. Delicate spices with nutmeg, vanilla and subtle cinnamon. On the palate the flavours darken to include stewed fruit, roasted nuts and dark chocolate, with some black pepper spice and oak leading to a delicious medium to long finish. AP 89 TALISKER STORM SINGLE MALT Region: Skye, Scotland ABV 45.8% | RRP $85 Pale golden colour. Aromas of soft smoke, old oak and a touch of almond. On the palate upfront malt, then with a salty fizz on the side of the tongue with a dried fruit like sweetness, building. On the finish there is lingering wood smoke, only light, then sweetness returns to round it out. A very nice sipper with just a dash of water. DR 93

THE DALMORE 15YO SINGLEHIGHLANDMALT

Notes of old varnish, leather and old book shop signals the aged characters and heavily oxidised aromas leaning toward rancio. The palate is all raisins, more sherry, orange marmalade, walnuts and sticky dates pudding. The finish is incredibly long, complex, with a garnish of walnuts, Christmas cake. This is a superb whisky! BD 94

GLENDRONACH 12YO ORIGINAL SINGLE MALT

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AP 90

‘THE ORCANDIAN’ SINGLE MALT Region: Orkney, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $120 Pale Gold colour with soft aromas, hints of wood tannin, hint of citrus, a little bit of spice. On the palate, signs of lifted alcohol, malty driven with a hint of esters and dry cacao. The finish is surprising long, dry and leaves you wanting more. I’d enjoy this mixed in something like a whisky highball. DR 85

15YO THE FRENCH OAK RESERVE Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $120 Peach iced tea coloured. Aromas of lovely stone fruits, tropical, red grapes, soft caramel, starburst candy, vibrant fruit profile overall. Very pleasant on the palate, medium weight, more tropical fruit moving into a toasty malt finish with a lovely tannin. Straight or over ice. YW 85

SCAPA

GLENFIDDICH

CRAIGELLACHIE

BRUICHLADDICH

LAPHROAIG

25YO CASK STRENGTH 2013 EDITION Region: Islay, Scotland ABV 45.1% | RRP $700 Light Gold colour. Aromas of iodine, with hay mulch and honey. Some floral notes with macadamia oil and ginger. Some slight sherried sweetness, on the palate with faint iodine and sea spray gives way to ginger snap. Macadamia and almond nuts. Some baked apple and vanilla. Superb and deep smoky finish. Would go well with Battenberg cake. SM 93

12 YO DOUBLE CASK Region: Speyside, Scotland ABV 43.0% | RRP $115 Dark Straw colour. Aromas of ginger spice, some dried apples and floral. Not a lot of sweetness, quite dry and savoury, hint of nutmeg. Good length, finishes with that continued spice, slightly resinous. Best enjoyed Neat, dash of water really opens it up. DR 93

OCTOMORE MASTERCLASS 08.1 SUPER-HEAVILY PEATED Region: Islay, Scotland ABV 59.3% | RRP $180 Smashes right up the nostrils and into the brain. Sweet barley, pencil shavings and herbal soot. Red bloody meats and bags of flint, soot and ash. I think a steam locomotive just ran into my throat Lumbering coal train long. Best enjoyed while watching Julie Andrews giving Dick Van Dyke a sponge bath after his scene as a chimney sweep in Mary Poppins. Lather up! MW 93 Boom! The peat is evident. Quite heavily peated, but that’s not what really stands out. The ‘funk’ and barnyard smell is there, which lends itself quite closely to Bruichladdich from experience. Hay bales, horse manure, organic barley and local peat. Menthol and brine on the palate for a big whack on the finish. It’s tasty, it’s peated, but it’s uncomplicated and a tad one-dimensional. Best enjoyed as the last whisky of the night. MB 88

NAKED GROUSE

BRUICHLADDICH

PORT CHARLOTTE HEAVILY PEATED

SHACKLETON BLENDED MALT Region: Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $65 Pale Straw colour. Prominent grain character, lightly toasted resin, mild grassiness, lemon peels, light violet flowers. Peppery front palate given for 40% Abv, very soft, no oiliness in the mid palates light biscuits in the finish then a sharp end to the finish. Enjoy with a mixer, soda probably preferred. YW 75

12YO HONOUR’‘VIKING Region: Orkney, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $85 Very Pale, Light Straw in colour. Aromas of lightly peated malt, toffee and light oak. On the palate there is a light fizz on the side of the tongue, light wood tannin but surprisingly good mouth feel. The finish is short and crisp, with a lightly peated malty sweetness that lingers for a little bit. Depends on what your jam is, acceptable as a sipper, I’d be throwing some sugar and bitters in there to make it more of a crowd pleasing Old Fashioned. DR 87

Region: Highland, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $69 A rich and full aromas, with a bold character, there are notes of dried fruit, chocolate, highland heather and herbs. The palate is sweet and exceptionally well rounded. Notes of toffee and barley sugar with a hint of smoke and peat coming through, with a medium to long finish. AP 84

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Region: Islay, Scotland ABV 50.0% | RRP $99 Light golden straw colour. Aromas of peat and of lifted alcohol, but not unpleasant. Lots of malt and a hint of stewed fruits and coffee, very malt forward, pretty delicious and oily. Slight hint of smoke. The finish is long, carried through by the high alcohol. A touch of water helps to open it up. Definitely a good sipper and a good way to end the evening. DR 95

PARKHIGHLAND

MUIRHEAD’S

16YO SILVER SEAL

12YO BLENDED MALT Region: Highlands, Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $65 Aromas of dark chocolate cherry liqueurs, almonds and old salty leather. All the makings of a carnies carpet bag. Sweet, comfortable and rich. Tends to drop off a bit towards the back. Controlled and even. Looking for that anchor to dull the sweetness. While watching The Famous Five. MW 87

MACALLANTHE

REGALCHIVAS

BLACK LABEL SHERRY EDITION Region: Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $65 Dark brown with hints of gold in colour. Imagine the embers of a fire on the horizon. Exciting nose. Showing some appealing complexity. Spice, cinnamon, even the merest hint of mint and orange

DRINKS exploredrinks.com 227 rind. A little peaty note emerged as a gentle smokiness, balanced with some sherry richness. Great texture here, lovely creaminess. A hint of a nutty and biscuity note comes through. Complex and supple, with good spirit.

CHIVAS REGAL

Region: Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $125 Light Amber in colour. Aromas of creamy grain character, medium toasted bread crust, light honey, orange peels, faint earthy and woody spices. On the palate, the oak is more pronounced, with signs of a decent age, good mouthfeel, soft salinity, accented with Christmas cake with a light muted honey medium-shortcharacterfinish.Can enjoy straight or over ice. YW 82 IRISH WHISKEY

TYRCONNELL SINGLE MALT IRISH Region: Ireland ABV 40.0% | RRP $80 Bright Straw colour. Has a forward nose with pear and vanilla. A moreish mouthfeel as the velvety whiskey slides to the back of the throat, there’s a cleanness and freshness about this whisky, I get lemon zest and caramel. A clean and crisp finish. Feels youthful and would make a delicious sprtiz! AP 85

MIDLETON VERY RARE Region: Ireland ABV 40.0% | RRP $250 Burnished gold colour. Aromas of candied lemon, sweet porridge and freshly milled malt. Tropical fruity notes of ripe banana, mango and pineapple sweetness develop. The palate is soft and creamy with lemon drizzle cakes with vanilla cream with hints of barley spice. The mouthfeel has initial softness, along with some of the sweet grainy notes and subtle tartness, barrel char bitterness and sweet cream giving a harmonious taste. A unique whiskey to be sipped and savoured. BD 96

12 YO MIZUNARA

A very fine blended whisky. Has impressive length. KG 93 CHIVAS REGAL 12YO Region: Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $60 Light Gold colour. Aromas of stone fruit, also apples and pears with Demerara sugar and kitchen spice. Fudge and caramel notes on second inspection. On the palate there is a slight waxy note, accented with peach pits, vanilla and honeydew melon. A sweet demerara finish makes this a very easy intro introduction to whisky. Would make an excellent highball. SM 80 DEWARS 15YO ‘THE MONARCH’ Region: Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $70 Golden amber colour. Malt shows up straightaway along with some nice oak, probably both American and Spanish oak, with some sherry. On the palate, sweet Malteasers, sweet sawdust, light entry, fresh and citric, totally unexpected. All light fruits, citrus, wax apples and pear eau de vie. It has an unusual contrast to the nose, good texture, but not much weight. Oak kicks in with a bit of air. Light, short length & juicy. Mouth-watering. Solid for a 40% blend with a decent malt component and well put together. GF 81

DOUBLE BLACK LABEL Region: Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $65 Deep copper with brightness. Lifted nose, struck match, honey and oak. Full bodied, rich and complex. Dried raisins, apples and pearpeat smokiness and balance of sweetness and spice. A lingering smokiness elegantly combine with black pepper and charred oak. AP 91

SCOTCH WHISKY BLENDED WHISKY WALKERJOHNNIE

18YO Region: Scotland ABV 40.0% | RRP $85 Dark vibrant gold in colour. Aromas of vanilla, dark chocolate and a faint whiff of smoke, with prominent malty sweetness with a touch of spice. The palate is in line with the nose yet the spicy notes become more pronounced. Malty sweetness and hazelnuts. A bold and rich finish lingers as the spices really come through and then tails off into dark chocolate and well integrated oak. A touch of water brought out an orange zest and opened up an oakiness. A beautifully smooth blended whisky. BD 90

WALKERJOHNNIE

REDBREAST

ELIJAH CRAIG SMALL BATCH BOURBON

Region: Tennessee, USA. ABV 45.0% | RRP $99 Brassy reddish hue. That sour mash is at the front, oakvanillins, lemondrop, tight and direct. Nice sweet entry, reallybanana’slongthatstartsFillssweetvarinish(goodluxardodriedstrawberries,maraschino,age),greatspicekicksinlate.themouthwell.Pepperthefinish,thenmoreofcherry,sarsaparillastyle,tanninonthesides,nowhichisweird.Stilltasty,though.

Region: Ireland ABV 40.0% | RRP $100 Very pale straw colour. The nose is rather subtle, perhaps a smidge too muted. Open it up for the full effect. There are florals and a hint of nuts. An alluring texture. There is a slight wheaty note on first tasting, but it does not linger. Rather, some honey emerges. Good spirit. Has reasonable length. KG 90

SINGLE BARREL SELECT

WILD TURKEY 101 KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON

Region: Cork, Ireland ABV 40.0% | RRP $79 Dark golden mahogany in colour. Lovely aromas of sweet vanilla and dark fruits like plums and berries, carried by rich charred American oaky tannins. Some evidence of sherry cask maturation from the signature dried fruit and dryish astringency. On the palate comes a bold flavour of well-aged pot still whisky, notes of dried apricot, dates and honeyed sweetness right through to the drying tannins on the finish. An excellent Irish! Would go well in a Whiskey Sour or Irish Coffee. BD 89 GREENORE SINGLE GRAIN SMALL BATCH 8YO

Region: Kentucky, USA ABV 50.5% | RRP $65 Dark Amber in colour. Opens up with aromas of roasted coconut husks up front. A second inspection offers notes of creamy panacotta. With time some butterscotch notes appear. On the palate, sweet toffee character transfers into some intense spice. A menthol note appears on the second taste. Lots of toasted oak. Would make a very nice old fashioned. SM 85

TULLAMORE DEW TRIPLE DISTILLED Light golden colour. Aromas of green and red apples, leafy astringency and evidence of ex-bourbon American oak vanilla notes. The palate is crisp and smooth with balanced pot-still and grain whisky adding to a spicy and subtle creamy mouthfeel. A delicious and approachable Irish whiskey that makes for a good aperitif style drink, mixed with soda or ginger ale. BD 87

JACK DANIEL’S

Region: Kentucky, USA ABV 47.0% | RRP $80 A meld of bronze/lemon/ golden colour. Aromas of spices with a very slight peppery note. Some cumin and a lovely vanilla pod character. There is also a freshly sawn wood note, mixed with some lovely varnished teak and orange rind. On the palate there is a really appealing texture. There is also a touch of a floral note emerging. It is nicely balanced and there

TRIPLE CASKED BLENDED Region: Ireland ABV 40.0% | RRP $60 Orange/gold and honey. Soft, gentle aromas. Old leather. A little mustard seed. Old teak and some vanilla. There is noticeable oak, but it is nicely integrated and soft. Underneath, a character like a dying campfire. In the very nicest way. Impressive texture. Good spirit, if a smidge fiery. More of those appealing vanillin nuances emerge on the palate. Moderate length. Would appeal even more if it could maintain its intensity for a little longer. KG 89

GF 88

Region: Cork, Ireland ABV 40.0% | RRP $100 A golden copper hue. Honeyed nose, almost golden syrup, developing into stewed fruit like cooked apples and pear drops. Deliciously smooth roundness, dried apricot and soft spices bursting on the tongue. Distinctly Irish in the velvety mouthfeel and developing toffee notes, with the barley grain and pot-still characters on show. The finish develops into gentle spiciness, good length and perfectly soothing. 92 WEST CORK SINGLE MALT SHERRY CASK Region: Cork, Ireland ABV 40.0% | RRP $120 Golden hay and rose gold colour. Aromas of toasted malt, Wonka toffee apple bars with a faint whiff of peat. On the palate, Monte Carlo jam, sweet honeysuckle, peat shows up more here, drying the middle of the palate, with hints of gardenias. The finish is malty, with dry oak tannins revealing a sherry cask influence. Aside from being a bit thin on the palate, this is delicious, delicate and peated perfectly for a light spirit. GF 84 SLANE

AMERICAN WHISKEY

BD

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12YO SINGLE POT STILL

JAMESON BLACK BARREL SELECT RESERVE

BD

WOODFORD RESERVE DOUBLE OAKED BOURBON Region: Kentucky, USA ABV 43.2% | RRP $76 A dark mahogany colour Vanillin oak notes here. Orange blossoms. Some old teak. Richly flavoured. There are notes here that give it the appearance of having a lot in common with a very fine rum, from the drier end of the spectrum Creamy Texture which really impresses. There is an appealing exuberance about this bourbon. A little sweetness but everything is nicely balanced. That said, the impression of links to a fine rum is even stronger on the palate. There might be links to good rum but this finish, with excellent length, is all bourbon. KG 93 Bright rusty amber colour with aromas of a new leather jacket with maple syrup, charred oak, cherries, nutmeg and Nail polish. The palate has dark chocolate orange and cherry apple crumble with vanilla spice finish that’s long lasting, deep dark and complex. Best enjoyed after dinner in an old fashioned and a mellow cigar. JB 90

230 exploredrinks.com is noticeable but well integrated spirit. Gives the impression of being a complete spirit. Has good length on the finish. KG 91

Region: Kentucky, USA ABV 45.2% | RRP $225 Dusty aromas of sawdust, burnt flour and sugar crusted short crust apple pie. Very dry on the first sip. Take another. The palate builds to sweet

GF 87

RESERVEWOODFORD CHERRY STRAIGHTSMOKEDWOODBARLEYBOURBON

BLACK Region: USA ABV 40.0% | RRP $50 Light mahogany colour. Fruity and peachy aromas with sweet stone fruits, sappy and even bubble gum hints. The palate concurs with nose, sweet, soft macerated fruits, peach iced tea, blossom honey, golden syrup, viscous and clingy. Drink over ice with lemon twist or with a mixer, would be nice with tonic. YW 80 MICHTER’S SINGLE BARREL KENTUCKY STRAIGHT

STRAIGHT

SOUTHERN COMFORT

RYE Region: Kentucky, USA ABV 42.4% | RRP $125 Whoa there horsy, let’s back it up a little! Aromas of mint jelly, cherry pie and pine forest. A palate of White oak shavings and a bitter herbal astringency tend to balance with vanilla and sugar. Long, herbal and a prickling spiciness on a very satisfying finish. I’d enjoy this playing a harmonica on the front porch in the late summer afternoon. MW 90 A rye, but a very balanced one compared to what we usually see with rye of late. This is oaky, honeyed, and very balanced. Banana split on a hot day. Almost a barley in the mix somewhere. Almonds, dark chocolate, orange oil, and turmeric spice. In a rocks glass, maybe a cube of ice, on a warm afternoon. MB 85

WOODFORD RESERVE

LONGBRANCH

DRINKS

BUFFALO TRACE KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON Region: Kentucky, USA ABV 40.0% | RRP $65 Deep golden colour. Lovely slate kind of aroma, big sweetness, lots of vanilla. Delicious palate, vanilla and oak, little bit of spice with the sweetness of candied apples. Can enjoy this with Soda, cocktails, neat, staff shots. Seems very versatile. DR 92

Region: Kentucky, USA ABV 43.0% | RRP $65 Burnt gold mahogany coloured. Aromas are well balanced with a blend of classic vanilla and oak spices. Lovely notes of charred oak. The palate reveals flavours of caramel, pear, and hints of citrus round out the smooth and subtle, smoky finish with a full bodied buttery creaminess with a finish of gentle pepper and toasted oak that lasts a good long while. Perfect for sipping on the back porch as the sun goes down. 91

WILD TURKEY

MICHTER’S SMALL BATCH KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON Region: Kentucky, USA ABV 45.7% | RRP $125 Dark, amber colour. Aromas of leather and tobacco, a bit earthy aromas, one of the more complex noses. Hints of floor varnish but in a nice way. Sweetness up front, then a lovely, slatey dry oak flavour, the alcohol is hidden amongst the balance of oak, vanilla and fruit It lasts for a while, changes from sweet, to tannin and then back to sweet. Very pleasant This would be my choice for an everyday drinker, that would still impress most people. I think straight, in a glass would be the best way to enjoy. DR 96

RYE Region: Kentucky, USA ABV 45.2% | RRP $89 Red Gold, bright colour. Aromas of oak char, spicy rye & cherry cola. The palate has sweet vanilla, pepper, sugared almonds, sawdust, clove, long & juicy. The higher alcohol helps here and done very well with integrated spirit & oak. Maybe a little simple, but sometimes it’s the simple things that work the best.

Scapa Skiren is crafted on the isolated Orkney Isles, by a small team of dedicated artisans using methods perfected over generations. It is aged exclusively in first-fill American oak casks, creating a smooth, sweet, fruity taste unexpected for an island malt and a long, refreshing finish. IT’S MORE THAN SCOTCH, IT’S ORCADIAN. SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY

NIKKA COFFEY GRAIN Region: Japan ABV 45.0% | RRP $130 A light golden colour with slightly sweet aromas, with traces of caramel and vanilla. An elegant, creamy palate with grainy flavours smoothly presented across the palate – gentle spice and nuttiness. A grain whisky that presents some oakiness and earthy notes alongside a subtle gentle backbone. A little short, but the extra punch of the 45% lingers on the finish. AP 87

SELECT CASKS Region: India ABV 43.0% | RRP $100 Rich amber colour. Nutty, aromas with trail mix, dried apricots, vibrant peach, woody straw. Interesting palate with a lot going on searching for balance, Chinese herbal medicine, old cupboards, sweet fruit, citrus, bitter earthiness empty mid palate. Could enjoy straight or mixed. YW 80

NIKKA WHISKY PURE MALT TAKETSURU Region: Japan ABV 43.0% | RRP $130 Heavy malt displaying notes of coffee and pine turpentine. Heavily weighted towards those sharp yet dark rustic notes. Long, dry and tannic. A fusion enjoyed by Japanese, giving their own twist on a classic style Scottish malt. Reminds me of sitting in your great uncles darkened living room while an old shellacked steamer trunk used as a coffee table stares hauntingly back at you. 85

INDIAN WHISKY RAMPUR INDIAN SINGLE MALT WHISKY NON-CHILL FILTERED VINTAGE

LOT 40 RYE WHISKY Region: Ontario, Canada ABV 43.0% | RRP $85 Copper mahogany in colour. Earthy aromas and up front rye spice balanced with citrus peel and oak gives a sign that this is serious rye whisky. Lovely notes caramel flan, fig jam and burnt orange peel oils. The palate is soft and floral as it opens, leading into a world of spices, cardamom pod and peppery coriander leaf. Crunchy brown sugar and fresh vanilla pod sweetness. On the finish the classic rye spiciness lingers. Makes a banging whisky sour. 90

PAUL JOHN ‘BRILLIANCE’ INDIAN SINGLE MALT Region: Goa, India ABV 46.0% | RRP $90 Faint Gold. Peanut Brittle! Golden straw, dried hay, dried mangoes, apricot, funky.. almost overripe sour fruits in the background. Solid mouthfeel, oily, malty, heavy on the tongue, more salty peanut brittle, savoury finish, touch of white pepper. Straight or with a touch of water. YW 86

KENTUCKY STRAIGHT CORN WHISKY Region: USA ABV 50.0% | RRP $70 BBQ charred corn cobs in the husks. Love this edible nose. Seriously viscous, rich and thick. Gets a little sharp in the palate as a hidden spice appears extending out for some time. Get me some ground pork, chilli spice, onion, tomatoes, coriander and corn. We have a Chilli Con Carne to stew! MW 89

J.P. WISER’S PIKE CREEK WHISKY Region: Ontario, Canada ABV 40% | RRP 72.00 Reddish amber in colour, with subtle aromas of grapes, raisins, dried apricots and fleshy plums, with some decent underlying rye peppery spice, hints of toffee and burnt sugar. On the palate there is nice dried fruit medley, vanilla and subtle oak and a faint red wine characters in the background with a full bodied sweetness overall. Nice length on the finish, accentuated by the port barrel finish leaves sweet oaky tones lingering. Makes a decent sipper, with a big chuck of ice. BD. 84

MELLOW CORN

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AUSTRALIAN WHISKY SULLIVANS COVE AMERICAN OAK SINGLE CASK Region: TasmaniaCambridge, ABV 47.5% | RRP $330 Deep Golden yellow colour with aromas of golden syrup over hot crumpets and fruit toast on a malting floor. The palate is lavender floral, creamy goats cheese on crisp-breads or a pepper lavosh cracker with red steak proteins. The winds picking up that dry sawdust again. Country roads, lumber mills and pickup trucks. Be sure to pack a red and white flannelette check shirt and tell the missus you won’t be home for supper. MW 91

CANADIAN WHISKY

BD

JAPANESE

MW

DISTILLER’S NOTE: Delicate floral notes with a hint of vanilla. Soft & warming, rolls beautifully across the palate, a smooth well balanced single malt. Long & smooth Limited Release American Oak cask 280 Bottle Release.

OLD KEMPTON SMALL CASK RELEASE (PORT CASK) Location: Tasmania ABV 46.0% | RRP $220 DISTILLER’S NOTE: Rich leather and coffee/mocha. Rum and raisins with orange, fruit pudding and pantry spices. Big bold and robust dark chocolate notes. Spices, plums, cherries, cassia bark. Classic Tasmanian single cask richness and character in abundance. Rich long finish, fading to a dryness of attractive tannins which come from the small cask maturation. Each Small Cask release is released as a single cask, variance in the flavour of whisky between releases should be expected.

SOONCOMING

OVEREEM SINGLE MALT PORT CASK MATURED Location: Tasmania ABV 43.0% | RRP $210 DISTILLER’S NOTE: Chocolate covered raisins, caramel, butterscotch, Turkish delight, crème brulee and plum pudding. Creamy, chocolate, mocha, spiced plum pudding, orange rind, wood smoke, Christmas cake, caramel, liquorice and malted barley, Vanilla bean and spiced raisins. Complex and Intriguing.

FRENCH OAK SINGLE CASK Region: TasmaniaCambridge, ABV 47.5% | RRP $450 Golden Hue. Aromas of white peach, peach cobbler, Brioche, light honey and vanilla. On the palate, sweet honey on the front opens up to some underlying spice. Candied orange comes through on the mid palate. Finishes with a little peppery spice. Nice opening whisky. If you were to have a few then this would be a great place to start. An early night whisky. Would go well with prosciutto and melon. SM 90

10YO - SLIGHTLY PEATED Location: Tasmania ABV 46.2% | RRP $120 DISTILLER’S NOTE: Subtly smoky plumes form fading campfire. Citrus tones of lemon and orange transcending to a vanilla sweetness. Creamy with a lingering smokiness. Champion Australian Single Malt - 2018 Distilled Spirit Awards.

WINE CASK SINGLE MALT Region: Melbourne, Victoria ABV 41.0% | RRP $90 Bananas and cinnamon and spice, a bit of lifted alcohol. Bit more obvious alcohol on the palate, still sweet with spice: Sweetness turns into a dry pepper finish, quite short. Either neat, bold enough to hold up in a bunch of cocktails. DR 90

STARWARD

DRINKS exploredrinks.com 233 onion and ripe stone-fruit, with a finish that’s very complex with notes of buttery shortbread, malty and yeasty and very long lasting. I could drink this outside on a summers day in the country with a big plate of buttery bread getting in tune with nature. Loved this!! JB 97

COVESULLIVANS

PINOT NOIR FINISH Region: Burnie, Tasmania ABV 46.2% | RRP obviouscolour.Bronze/orange/mahogany$100Nuttynose.Someoak.Quiteheavyoak –this will be a little off-putting for some, but others will appreciate the style. There are also some hay and almond notes. And a little biscotti An orange/biscuity note emerged on the palate. Nicely balanced, if a little oaky. Soft finish with reasonable length, though the overall impression is that it is a little solid/chunky. KG 89

TASMANIAN WHISKY DISTILLERS TASTING NOTES NONESUCH RYE WHISKY 100% RYE Location: Tasmania ABV 46.5% | RRP $155 DISTILLER’S NOTE: Creamy and buttery, ripe tropical fruits like passion fruit and durian, grainy, fresh dough, sultanas, soft Xmas spices, jelly beans and icing for cakes, a little bit floral grainy and malty, slightly peppery, green wood, milk chocolate and vanilla, spicy with a creamy texture, almonds, green walnuts and wet hay warming, spicy, creamy texture, salivating, quite long and intense with grainy attitudes. Different from your classic American Ryes.

AMERICAN OAK SINGLE CASK Location: Tasmania ABV 47.5% | RRP $330 DISTILLER’S NOTE: Malt, vanilla, white flowers and wood shop. Caramel, pound cake and apricots. Lingering malt texture and powerful oak finish.

ROADHELLYERS

COVESULLIVANS

ROADHELLYERS

HUTTRAPPERS SINGLE MALT CASK LD 601 Location: Tasmania ABV 45.0% | RRP $295

Location: Tasmania ABV 49.0% | RRP $280 DISTILLER’S

LAUNCESTON DISTILLERY SINGLE MALT WHISKYAPERA CASK MATURED

‘THE RHEBAN’ PORT CASK Location: Spring Bay, Tasmania ABV 58.0% | RRP $225 DISTILLER’S NOTE: Sweet and complex aromas suggest butterscotch and Christmas muscatels. Sweet caramel syrup and plum pudding spices join a clean, bright alcohol explosion which spreads across the palate to settle in and glow with some soft oaky tannins. Hints of cherry cordial and some nutty undertones that clearly displays.

Location: Hobart, Tasmania ABV 43.0% | RRP $145 DISTILLER’S

SOONCOMINGSOONCOMING

DRINKS

CRADLE MOUNTAIN

MCHENRY SINGLE MALT WHISKY

SPRING BAY

NANT SINGLE MALT (FRENCH OAK AND SHERRY CASK)

NOTE: Golden syrup and vanilla with hints of oranges and grapefruit. Plum pudding, Christmas cake, cinnamon sticks, nutmeg and a wisp of Tasmanian peat smoke. Sweet vanilla transforms into a heady combination of orange peel, smokyaandgrapefruit.cloves,butterscotch,nutmegandButterscotchcitrusnoteswithlong,satisfyingfinish.

LARK CLASSIC CASK SINGLE MALT

Location: Tasmania ABV 46.2% | RRP $280 DISTILLER’S NOTE: A youthful nose of citrus and vanilla. Soft on the palate, hints sweetness and rich, multi-layered flavours.

A strong spice flavour, oak and hints of butterscotch.

17 YEAR SINGLE MALT

SHENE MACKEYESTATE SINGLE MALT, TAWNY CASK MATURED (FRENCH OAK)

Location: Cradle Mountain, Tasmania ABV 43% DISTILLER’S NOTE: Citrus fruit, lemon-grass, and hay aromas. Soft body with citrus fruit skins and lemongrass. Smooth clean palate. Surge of mustard and pepper. This rare whisky is only available from time to time online by special request.

NOTE: Malty, rich, toffee, spice and raisin notes – Christmas plum pudding. The palate is rich and full-bodied. Sweet, malty, brown sugar, it gives way to spices (anise, pepper, coffee), then finishes with dark stone fruit, apple and raisins. Good balance, smooth clean finish, with spicy dried fruit and vanilla aftertaste lingering. Making our own Shene Estate whisky wash on site allows us to enhance the flavour of our single malt whisky

KILLARA SINGLE MALT WHISKY Location: Tasmania ABV Varies | RRP $220 DISTILLER’S NOTE: Sweet with notes of caramel smooth, rich, hints of warming spice, dried fruits and malt. Long with full bodied mouthfeel. Each single cask release will be slightly different and released at the strength that allows the whisky to shine.

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Location: Launceston, Tasmania ABV 46.0% | RRP $156 DISTILLER’S NOTE: An engaging fragrant aroma, with Apera influenced notes of dried fruit, spice and a hint of oak. Displays a soft mouthfeel and subtle dry Fino style flavours of fruit and gentle spice. A pleasant lingering finish.

BELGROVE RYE WHISKY 100% RYE Location: Kempton, Tasmania ABV 46.5% | RRP $155 DISTILLER’S NOTE: Bright gold appearance. Immediately appealing and distinctive with its dill / pickle opening scents. Second pass offers chamomile tea, hints of boiled lolly, cedary oak and peppermint. A light, silky entry follows through to a super smooth and quite delicate profile featuring medium dry flavours of chamomile tea, sour dough bread and unusual notes of dill and caraway. Dry, mildly tannic finish. Aftertaste is subtle but shows good length

Location: Tasmania ABV 43.0% | RRP $165 DISTILLER’S NOTE: Rich and inviting. Hints of raisins, cinnamon, syrup and liquorice. Complex flavours of sultanas and ginger nut biscuits. Buttery caramel tones develop in the glass giving you an Christmas-likeinvitingfeeling.

single malts that rewrite the rule book

DON’T STARE INTO YOUR PHONE. STARE INTO YOUR OLD FASHIONED. IT’S WAY MYSTERIOUS.MORE TIP #34 The Perfect Single Old Fashioned Glass We can all be a little classier. Dress better. Drink better. Raise the bar. So we asked the world’s leading barman to create the perfect cocktail glasses. Ladies and gentlemen, we present the Perfect Serve Collection. You’re welcome. spiegelau.com.au/perfectserve Spiegelau_RaiseTheBar_Print Ads x8.indd 2 18/11/2016 12:18 PM