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PHOTOGRAPHER Immo Klink PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Natasha Alipour-Faridani PRODUCTION Eva Novillo at Immo Klink Studio SPECIAL THANKS Rocio Gomez MODELS Jo Wilson Malte Matern Odiel Morales Castillo Pablo Gomez Canillas Lucie at Paparazzi Marcus Bueno HAIR & MAKEUP Fiona Clarke ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY Elza Wandler LAYOUT Mike Fallows PRINTER Lenoirschuring DESIGN & STYLING Levi’s® XX — © 2012 Levi Strauss & Co. www.levisvintageclothing.com
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MINE TRIP. THE HUNT FOR DENIM IN DEATH VALLEY
The Levi’s® Vintage design team normally works in the office, using our amazing archive resources for reference and inspiration. All very nice, but when we were invited to travel to Death Valley and explore a silver mine that had lain disused for 130 years, we jumped at the chance. This would be research on another level and a chance to get a feeling for the people for whom our product was originally made. After a long journey we arrived in the desert in the pitch dark night and caught a few hours sleep in a trailer, waking to the dazzling light of the morning sun coming over the mountains. There was no time to lose before hiking to the mine became impossible in extreme heat. Carrying helmets with flashlights and wearing rigid Levi’s® we climbed over rock and scree until we reached
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the mineshaft in the mountainside. Once inside we had to crawl on hands and knees in places until we reached a likely area. Then began the digging and scrabbling and moving of rubble. We found shirt sleeves, canvas bags, an old shoe and a little felt hat, and that was just on the first morning. All the normal detritus of a nineteenth century miner’s life, but to us a humbling experience. We were used to taking this kind of stuff out of tissue paper while wearing white gloves, and here it was in the rough, where the users had abandoned it. We talk a lot about Levi’s® origins as workwear, but this somehow made us realise what that actually meant. Those miners delved in the dark and the dirt in the hopes of treasure. They could never have guessed that the worn-out stuff they discarded would be pay dirt for the likes of us.
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After visiting the mine.
Making plans.
Inspecting scraps.
People who think far in.
Inside the mine.
Home for three days.
Sunset over the desert.
Taking a break.
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1870s Triple Pleat Blouse, 1920s Sunset Shirt, 1890 501速 Jeans 10
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1910 Sunset Shirt 14
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1870s Closed Front Jumper, 1910 Sunset Shirt 20
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1870s Levi’s® Shield Underwear, 1886 Nevada Jeans, Suspenders 24
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1870s Closed Front Jumper, 1910 Sunset Shirt | 1936 Type I Jacket, 1870s Levi’s® Shield Underwear, 1922 501® Jeans Bandana 26
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1920s Sunset Coat, 1940s LS&Co. Shirt, Bow Tie
1920s Sunset Coat, 1940s LS&Co. Shirt, 1922 501速 Jeans, Bow Tie
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Previous page 1915 Sunset Shirt, 1873 Duck Canvas Overalls, Suspenders
1870s Closed Front Jumper, 1886 Nevada Jeans, Suspenders, Bandana
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Belts from the collection
1870s Triple Pleat Blouse, 1870s Levi’s® Shield Underwear, 1886 Nevada Jeans
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1873 Duck Canvas Overalls
1920s Sunset Shirt, 1890 501速 Jeans, Suspenders | 1915 Sunset Shirt, 1873 Duck Canvas Overalls, Suspenders | 1920s Henley, 1886 Nevada Jeans, Suspenders
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1936 Type I Jacket,1870s Triple Pleat Blouse,1870s Levi’s® Shield Underwear, Bandana, Leather Toggle
1950s Longhorn Shirt, 1873 Duck Canvas Overalls, Suspenders, Leather Nugget Pouch | 1936 Type I Jacket,1870s Triple Pleat Blouse, 1886 Nevada Jeans
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Bib Dress 44
Customized Koveralls 46
Miner’s Bag | Opposite Customized Koveralls, Bandana 48
Baby Doll Shirt, LS&Co. Skirt 50
Triple Pleat Blouse, Baby Doll Shirt, LS&Co. Skirt | Opposite Sunset Dress 53
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Above Original ragged tee found in desert on mine trip. Previous page Rugged Sunset Shirt, 1966 606速 Jeans | Run Ragged Tee, 1920s Pleated Chinos 56
LS&Co. Shirt Jacket 58
1870s Closed Front Jumper, 1933 501速 Jeans Cut Off 60
Dot Dress 62
1919 El Real Tee, 1873 Customized Shortie
1910 Sunset Shirt, 1920s Customized Chinos
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Miner’s Daughter Bag | Opposite 1950s Shorthorn Shirt, 1873 Customized Shortie 66
Above Rugged Sunset Shirt,1966 606® Jeans | Opposite Customized Type I Jacket, 1954 501®Z Jeans Next page – Customized Type I Jacket , 1930s Bay Meadows Tee, 1954 501®Z Jeans 68
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THE LEVI’S® ARCHIVE. OUR FORTUNE AND OUR TREASURE
Safely preserved in a vault deep inside our headquarters in San Francisco lies an archive of over 20,000 rare and unique examples of Levi’s® clothing and artifacts dating back to as early as 1873. Kept at an even temperature and wrapped in unbleached cotton, these delicate specimens are carefully protected by the Levi’s® Historian and strictly reserved for the use of our designers. Each season, our team pores through the archives with white-gloved hands, uncovering the secrets of our past and then bringing them back into the world through faithful reproductions that are as fresh now as they were back then.
Detail pattern of the original.
Original Levi Strauss Sportswear of California label.
SPRING SUMMER 2013 LEVI’S® VINTAGE CLOTHING REPRODUCTION OF THE 1940s HAWAIIAN SHIRT
Original 1940s Hawaiian Shirt in the Levi’s® Archive.
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SPRING SUMMER 2013 LEVI’S® VINTAGE CLOTHING REPRODUCTION OF THE 1950s SUEDE TRUCKER JACKET
Original 1950s Suede Trucker Jacket in the Levi’s® Archive.
Original Levis® Authentic Western Wear label.
SPRING SUMMER 2013 LEVI’S® VINTAGE CLOTHING 1914 LS&CO. SKIRT
Original 1914 LS&Co. Shirt in the Levi’s® Archive.
Detail stripes of the original 1914 LS&Co. Shirt.
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This is an Extra Large 1914 LS&Co. Shirt customized into a women’s skirt. The collar stand was turned into the waistband and the armholes into side pockets. The shirt was cut open at the center front with additional buttons added below the placket. All fabric, details and customizations stay true to the archival garment. 75
The term Hot Rod first appeared in California in the 1930s to describe cars with large engines modified for linear speed. These early cars (usually called soup-ups) were typically old T-Models from scrapyards customized by young enthusiasts with little or no money but a D.I.Y. punk attitude. After WWII Hot Rodding exploded and became one of post-war America’s biggest crazes. The cars were raced at tremendously high speeds on dry lake or river beds. To achieve these high speeds the cars were stripped of non-essential parts including fenders, hoods, windshields etc. to make the body as light as possible and fitted with Flathead engines. These engines had a simple design allowing virtually limitless performance enhancements. Money in their pockets and mechanical skills gained in the military made the production of dream cars possible. By the 1950s sophisticated paint designs decorated the body and competition in customizing became so fierce that top cars barely saw daylight except for drag strips and exhibition halls. Levi’s® clothing was first choice for the sharply dressed car owners and spectators. With ankle cropped pants and short sleeved shirts worn with straw hats their look was as considered as the machines themselves. This sport and the people involved is what inspired the Levi’s® Vintage Clothing™ SS13 collection. 76
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Crew Graphic Tee, 1950s Tab Twill Chinos | 1960s Stripe Tee | 1950s Shorthorn Shirt
Crew Graphic tee, 1950s Tab Twill Chinos
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1950s Climate Seal Jacket, 1950s One-Pocket Tee
1950s One-Pocket Tee, 1954 501速Z Jeans
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1960s Stripe Tees
1960s Stripe Tee, 1954 501速Z Jeans
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Belts from the collection
1950s Zip Sweatshirt, 1950s Tab Twill Chinos
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Laundry Bag
1960s Western Shirt, 1950s 701速 Jeans
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1960s Button Down Shirts 98
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Crew Graphic Tees
Crew Graphic Tee, 1960s 605速 Jeans
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Von Franco hand-painted 1950s Crew Sweatshirt, 1967 505速 Jeans 102
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1950s Knitted Sports Shirt
1950s Space Shirt, 1960s 518 White Levi’sŽ | 1940s Hawaiian Shirt, 1960s 519 Bedford Cords
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Crew Graphic Tee, 1960s 605速 Jeans | 1920s Koverups | 1960s Western Shirt
Above 1920s Koverups | Next page 1919 El Real Tee, 1933 501速 Jeans Cut Off
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1950s Crew Sweatshirt, 1960s Western Shirt, 1960s 518 White Levi’s® 110
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Lighter Blues Bomber Jacket, Crew Graphic Tee, 1950s Tab Twill Chinos 112
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1950s One-Pocket Tee, 1967 505® Jeans Cut Off | 1950s Short Sleeved Shirt, 1960s 518 White Levi’s® 114
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1950s Longhorn Shirt, 1930s Leather Jacket
1950s Suede Trucker, 1955 Sawtooth Denim Shirt, 1966 501速 Jeans
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Next page 1940s Hawaiian Shirt | 1950s Aertex Shirt, 1950s One-Pocket Tee
1950s One-Pocket Tee, 1954 501速Z Jeans | 1950s Space Shirt
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Sales Inquiries Europe Martin White Levi’s® XX European Sales Director +31 20 572 0200 mwhite@levi.com
UK & Ireland Carlos Williams Levi’s® XX Sales Manager +44 7843 296 573 cwilliams@levi.com
France & Belgium Dylan Julien Levi’s® XX Sales Manager +33 6789 787 18 djulien@levi.com
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Olivier Jacoby Levi’s® XX Sales Manager +33 6738 844 79 ojacoby@levi.com Germany, Austria & Switzerland Ricky Alston Levi’s® XX Sales Manager +49 151 1712 4147 ralston@levi.com Italy, Greece & Turkey Gabriele Roccato Levi’s® XX Sales Manager +39 3408 310 080 groccato@levi.com Alessia Greco Levi’s® XX Sales Manager +39 3489 405 735 agreco@levi.com Nordics & The Netherlands Nils Schéle Levi’s® XX Sales Manager +46 70 39 80 501 nschele@levi.com Marcus Böhme Levi’s® XX Sales Manager +46 76 63 33 501 mbohme@levi.com
Press Inquiries
Marketing
United States of America Michael Williams Paul + Williams New York +1 212 925 4750 mw@paulandwilliams.com www.paulandwilliams.com
Nana Murbandono Levi’s® XX PR Manager +31 20 572 0200 nmurbandono@levi.com
Ali Paul Paul + Williams Los Angeles +1 310 858 3883 ali@paulandwilliams.com www.paulandwilliams.com
USA & Canada David Coury Namaste USA +1 917 834 6506 david@namasteshowroom.com
Japan Ayaka Ooi PR01. +81 3 5774 1408 ayaka_ooi@hpgrp.com www.pr01.com
Alishea Ray Namaste USA West, Los Angeles +1 213 689 4867 alishea@namasteshowroom.com Traci McRobbie Namaste USA West, Los Angeles +1 213 689 4867 traci@namasteshowroom.com Eric Davis Namaste USA East, New York +1 212 242 6530 eric@namasteshowroom.com Japan Yosuke Otsubo Levi’s® XX Sales and Marketing Director +81 80 3125 7316 yotsubo@levi.com Shinohara Katsuyuki Levi’s® XX Sales Manager +81 6418 5501 kshinohara@levi.com
Spain & Portugal Annamaria Ferran Sales Manager Levi’s® XX +34 627452214 annamariaferran@gmail.com
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Olympisch Stadion 33 1076 DE Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 20 572 0200 tel +31 20 572 0201 fax contactxx@levi.com
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