Raw Pet Digest February/March 2016 by rawpetdigest

February/March2016

RAWPETDIGEST IN THIS ISSUE: -Tr an si t i o n i n g y o u r cat t o p r ey m o d el r aw -St er o i d s -Get t i n g a " p i ck y " d o g t o eat -Nat u r al g r o o m i n g -A n d m u ch m o r e!

Photo credit: Thomas Sandberg

Raw Pet Digest Editor-in-chief: Kristin Clark Technical editor: Dr. Jeannie (Jeannette) Thomason

To get an annual subscription (6 issues): -Using PayPal: send $15.00 USD to kristin@rawpetdigest.com -Using Square: go to mkt.com/ rawpetdigest -Email kristin@rawpetdigest.com for alternate forms of payment

All emails and letters become the property of Raw Pet Digest and may be reprinted in future issues.

Our mission at Raw Pet Digest is to share information that supports natural health with a broad audience to help improve the lives of our carnivore pets. We believe that only the body is capable of achieving and maintaining true health, but we also believe that there are many things that we can do to help support the body in its quest to maintain balance (health). Raw Pet Digest aims to help educate and inform you about those things so that you can help your pet live a long life and thrive naturally.

DISCLAIMER: All information contained in Raw Pet Digest is intended for educational purposes only. It is not provided in order to diagnose, prevent, or treat any disease, illness, or injured condition of the body or pets, and the author(s), publisher, and contributors accept no responsibility for such use. Anyone or their pets suffering from any disease, illness, or injury should consult with their physician or veterinarian. The statements herein have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. Additionally, all views expressed herein by those being interviewed or featured are their own views and do not necessarily represent the views of Raw Pet Digest. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the author(s) and Editor-in-Chief. The articles herein are for educational purposes only. The decision to use, or not to use, any information is the sole responsibility of the reader.

Lycan, Merlin, Midge, and Pansy. Photo credit: Bre Altherr

FEATURESAND COLUMNS Letter from the Editor - 4 Transitioning Your Cat to a Species-Appropriate Diet: Part 3 - 5 My Dog Won't Eat Raw! - 11 Spotlight on Health: Dr. Jeannie Thomason - 15 The Design of a Carnivore - 20 The Importance of Fresh Air - 21 Natural Grooming - 22

Minky the cat. Photo credit: Jess Ray

Natural Alternatives: Colloidal Silver - 28 Steroids in Our Pets - 32 Flea and Tick Prevention: Part 2 - 34 The Gift of Love - 38

Gage, a Havanese. Photo credit: Bre Altherr

Letter fromtheEditor Welcome to the February/ March issue of Raw Pet Digest! I hope 2016 is off to a great start for each and every one of you. As 2016 really gets underway, I?ve been thinking about what I want to accomplish this year. Just recently, I was in the grocery store doing some shopping, and a woman approached me. She looked very familiar, but I was feeling really ill and not at my best, and I couldn?t immediately place her. She introduced herself to me, and told me she had seen me and wanted to come over and thank me for the advice I had given her about switching her dog to a species-appropriate raw food (SARF) diet. Her dog had been suffering from allergies and hot spots, and nothing she had done had helped. She had tried allergy tests, changing food, medications? nothing had worked. In the summer, I had recommended that she try a SARF diet. She told me that her budget was very limited, but she took my advice. She started feeding her dog a raw diet, and the allergies and hot spots cleared up. She told me that it had been a bit of an adjustment, but that she had grown to value the time she spent with her dog while he was eating, and even the time spent preparing his meals. She went on to say that switching her dog to a SARF diet was the best advice she had gotten.

Kristin with Cleo, Motley, Elle, and Barkley. Photo credit: Adam Gilbert

As they share their stories, they may inspire others to begin their own journey towards natural health, and so on and so on. And, as more and more people begin to take personal responsibility for their pet?s health (and their own health), we become more powerful and more informed as a whole. I think this encapsulates what my goal for this year is? to keep sharing my passion and my knowledge with others, while at the same time learning everything I can so that I, too, can continue to grow.

In 2016 and beyond, I encourage you to take the time to learn as much as you can about how to support your pet?s health naturally. And I also encourage you to share what you learn, because you never know the impact it might have. We will continue to bring you as much information I cannot express how much her words meant to as possible, and as always, we welcome your me. Knowing that she is giving her dog a stories, comments, and questions. chance to heal, and that he is no longer suffering needlessly through the discomfort of If you haven?t already done so, please take a few allergies and hot spots, absolutely warms my minutes to fill out the survey you received about Raw Pet Digest. As a thank you for filling it out, heart. you will receive a free one-year subscription. Each time someone takes a step down the road of supporting their pet?s health naturally, it has Thank you for reading. Enjoy the issue! a profound and positive impact, not only on -Kristin their pet?s life, but potentially far beyond that. 4

TRANSITIONINGYOURCATTOA SPECIES-APPROPRIATEDIET: PART3

Cat in tree. Photo credit: Yanikap

In this article (the third and final part in our series about how to transition your cat to a species-appropriate diet), I talk about how to make the switch to a prey-model raw diet.

his side teeth to scissor off bite-sized pieces, shortening his learning curve and helping to strengthen jaw muscles atrophied from years of eating crumbly kibbles and canned mush.

Since its arrival in the US in the 1930?s, the pet food industry has been extraordinarily successful in their marketing campaigns, managing to convince an entire generation that they are inherently incapable of feeding their pets without ?expert? guidance, and erasing over 10,000 years of evolutionary fact: to whit, cats are obligate carnivores that thrive on a raw meat, prey-based diet. Today, home-feeding raw meat, bones, and organs is considered a novel and dangerous concept.

Chicken and pork are great starter meats, as they are fairly soft and easy to chew. And on the topic of pork, you are likely going to hear comments indicating that many cats don?t like pork or beef, or are ?allergic? to them. First, every cat is different and you never know what your cat will like until you try him. Second, cats change their minds all the time; if you keep offering variety, they will eventually accept and adjust to it. And variety is very important. Third, true feline protein allergies are exceedingly rare. Almost invariably, if a cat throws up a particular food, it?s due to other reasons. Some of the most common are: the food was too cold, the cat ate it too fast or swallowed too large a chunk for proper digestion, and? if the cat has gone too long without eating? he?s regurgitating it due to the high acid content in his stomach. In every one of these scenarios, the cat can usually re-eat the food and keep it down without issue.

The truth, of course, is that anyone putting a little thought and time into it can home-feed a cat; it?s neither mind-boggling nor formidable. To help you get started home-feeding your kitty, here are several prey model raw, or, as it?s affectionately known, ?frankenprey? feeding tips. Int roducing your cat t o meat The best way to introduce a cat to meat is to cut it in long strips no wider than your pinkie finger. This is small enough for the cat to fit one end in his mouth, but will force him to use

Photo credit: Tracy Dion

Another common reason for regurgitating or vomiting raw home-prepared foods is the presence of flavor ?enhancers? in the meat. Always read the labels before you buy, even if it?s an item you regularly purchase. Look for words like ?injected,? ?added flavor,? ?more tender,? and/ or ?juicier?; all of them likely indicate that some type of seasoning has been added to the meat. Cats that don?t hork these products up may suffer from hot spots or itchy skin, rashes, loose stools, or increased thirst, so it?s important to avoid them. Note: If you can?t tell whether the meat has been enhanced or not, look at the ?per serving? numbers. Products with less than 100 mg of sodium per serving are probably free of these additives. 6

Int roducing your cat t o bones If you?ve done any research into this topic, you?ve likely already come across the 80/ 10/ 5/ 5 guideline (or, 80-87% meat, fat, skin, sinew, connective tissue and heart, 5-10% edible bone, 3-5% liver, and 5% other secreting organ). Calculating how much to feed daily? that would be 2-4% of your cat?s weight? is easy enough, and multiplying that by .80 or .05 for the meat and organ percentages is also easy, but trying to figure out 5-10% edible bone when bones are purchased and must be fed wrapped in meat is not. This is, in fact, one of the most common questions from neophyte raw-feeders. My response? Don?t bother trying to ascertain the specific calculations. The 5-10% range is the average bone content of several of the cat?s natural prey animals, and no matter where a cat?s comfort zone lies within that range, too little will cause loose stools and too much will cause increasingly hard stools. The average cat finds three staggered bone-in meals a week (i.e. Monday night, Wednesday night and Saturday night) perfectly acceptable, and for most, the wing-tip and center portions of a single medium-sized chicken wing make a nicely proportioned meal (and the drummette, deboned, makes a great all-meat meal). Keep in mind that these comments reflect a menu that consists of three meals a day. Unlike dogs, cats evolved to eat many discrete, small meals over a 24-hour period, and they shouldn?t be fed any less than three times a day. So start there! For a couple of weeks, feed your cat bone-in meals consisting of the tips and wingettes of chicken wings. Get used to estimating how much bone that is, and watch the litter box? if your cat?s stools stay firm but moist, you know he?s eating an acceptable amount of bone. If they become soft, you can

add a wee bit more bone (unless you?re feeding a lot of fat or organs, and we?ll talk about that in a minute), and if they become too hard or dry, you need to cut back on the amount just a bit. Note: If your cat is new to bone or has trouble with the wings, cut the tips off at the joint, and cut the wingettes in half lengthwise, parallel to and in between the two bones. If he still has trouble, you can break the bones for him, but try not to break the skin, as you want him to learn to eat these on his own. After that two-week period, you should have a good grasp of how much bone your cat needs and can start swapping the chicken wings for other bone-in meals. Variety is important, so try to source at least one or two other types of bone-in products, like chicken and rabbit ribs with meat, and small rabbit bones. Int roducing your cat t o organs There are two organ requirements in a frankenprey diet. The first is liver and the second is any other secreting organ from the body of an animal? pancreas, testicles, thyroid glands, and kidneys are all great options. If you can alternate between them, so much the better. You can source these products from any animal, but poultry and rabbit organs seem to be better tolerated.

Red chicken. ÂŠStef22

Note: From a raw-feeding perspective, lungs, gizzards, and heart are considered muscle meats and do not count as part of the organ percentage. Organs contain enzymes? one of their primary benefits? and are often strongly flavored. A cat that is not accustomed to eating organs may become nauseous if fed too much at one time. Even many experienced cats can?t handle more than an ounce at once (think of how tiny are the organs inside a mouse or a bird!). For this reason, don?t feed an entire week?s worth of organs in a single meal and don?t make an entire meal out of organs? your cat is almost guaranteed to throw it right back up if you do. Instead, spread the week?s organs out over several meals and make each meal half organ and half meat. In addition to nausea and vomiting, too much organ can cause loose stools. As you are working to transition your cat onto a frankenprey diet, work first with meats, then get the bone-in meals adjusted, then add in the organs. It is not harmful for your cat to eat an organ-free diet for a few weeks (a few weeks only!). Fat and Skin Cats are constrained by their physiology to sourcing all of their energy, growth, and maintenance needs through the calories found in meat-based proteins and fat. They cannot properly utilize the calories from carbs (these are simply turned into body fat) and, in fact, if they do not get enough calories through meat-based protein and fat, they will sabotage their own bodies for what they need, irrespective of how many plant-based calories they may also be eating. (This is the underlying reason so

many older and kidney-compromised cats lose muscle mass.) Obviously, then, a cat?s need for protein and fat is higher than human or canine requirements. Any cat eating a meat-based 80/ 10/ 5/ 5 diet is going to get its protein needs satisfied. Fat, on the other hand, needs to be monitored.

Cat hunting mice. ÂŠKatarzyna Mazurowska

Skin is a good source of fat, so try to leave it on whenever possible. Chicken products are also often high in fat, so including them on your cat?s menu several times a week is a good idea. Rabbit is usually a very lean animal, so it should never be the bulk of a cat?s diet. Unless the fat is very thick, hard, or chunky, it can usually be left alone in pork and beef products. Of course? as with any excess? too much fat in a single meal has consequences, and these usually arrive in the form of nausea and/ or loose stools. For this reason, it?s usually best to pull the thicker skin off chicken breasts, thighs, and quarters.

Keep a journal and creat e a schedul e Keeping a journal might take a bit of your time, but the return on investment is high. You will come to understand your cat and his needs quicker, and you will be able to spot potential trouble sooner. Without a journal, for instance, I may not have realized my lovely Rachel had regurgitated several of her first few beef meals because she absolutely loves beef and was so eager to eat, she was swallowing whole chunks. Once I started cutting her beef in smaller pieces, the regurgitation stopped, and I was able to slowly work her back up to whole ounce chunks. Likewise, a feeding schedule might take a bit of work initially, but once created and posted somewhere easily accessible, it relieves you of the need to wonder on any given morning what you should be feeding that day. I sometimes hear raw feeders proclaiming that feeding raw is so simple they just throw down a little of this and a little of that, and I find myself concerned on their behalf? raw feeding is a simple concept, but it cannot be haphazard in practice. Balance is vital to maintain health. So work up a schedule (an example of my schedule is included on the next page for you to see) for stress- and error-free balanced feeding. Don?t st ress it !

meal, others may take weeks. However long it takes your cat, don?t force, don?t hover, and don?t stress about it. Cats are very sensitive creatures and pick up distress quite easily. If you are hovering over them, shedding anxiety and begging them to just eat one bite (and I have counseled owners who have done just this), your cat is more likely to want to hide from the obviously impeding ?awful event? than he will be to eat. So relax! Take it at your kitty?s pace and enjoy each step as he learns to eat the way nature intended for him. You will be better able to manage and even enjoy his progress. I have spoken with many owners who exclaimed that after cringing during the first few bone-in meals, the sound of their cat chomping through bone now gives them a curious sense of satisfaction, and so it will be with you! -By Tracy Dion Tracy Dion is a writer and feline care and behavior consultant, specializing in nutrition and feeding a species-appropriate diet. She has worked with rescue and shelter organizations rescuing and socializing cats, dogs, birds, rats, and reptiles for many years, but her focus for the last decade has been on cats. She is dedicated to improving their health and welfare through owner education, and is passionate about improving the owner/animal bond through increased understanding of natural feline behaviors and needs. She is a professional member of the Cat Writers?Association and past Editor of Raw Instincts Magazine, as well as the mind behind CatCentric.org. Her articles have been published by the Feline Nutrition Education Society, the online magazines Raw Instincts and Catnip Chronicles, the American Council for Animal Naturopathy, and more.

And speaking of stress? . don?t! You are not in a race and there is no time limit on a transition. This is a lifestyle change for you and for your cat and it must be done at the cat?s pace. Some will take to raw after a single

Below is an example of my weekly feeding schedule for my cats. You will find that making a schedule keeps you on track and ensures that you feed your kitties in such a way as to create balance over time.

Somali cat hunting. ÂŠJuliasha 10

MYDOGWON'TEATRAW! Sometimes, when we decide to start feeding a species-appropriate raw food (SARF) diet to our dogs, they seem to have other ideas. I have heard things like, ?My dog just won?t eat raw,? ?My dog only likes cooked chicken,? or even ?My dog refuses to eat anything other than her kibble.? Nobody wants their dog to starve, but we do want to make sure they?re eating the best thing possible, so what do we do? The first thing to keep in mind is that, unlike cats, it is perfectly fine to fast healthy dogs for several meals, and even several days. So, before switching your dog to a SARF diet, it is a really good idea to fast them completely for 12-24 hours (my recommendation is the full 24 hours). This is true whether or not you typically feed your dog once per day, twice per day, or even free-feed them their kibble. Fasting gives their body a chance to flush out some of the kibble (reset, if you will) and build up a hearty appetite.

Once you have fasted your dog for 24 hours, put down their first species-appropriate meal. Give your dog its space; in other words, don?t hover nervously over him or her, anxiously watching for them to take a bite. Keep an eye on your dog from a bit of a distance? after all, would you want someone looming over you while you ate, intently watching your every move? Dogs are sensitive, and this is even less appealing to them than it would be to us. If your dog doesn?t seem very interested in the food, that?s fine. Leave it down for 15 or 20 minutes, then pick up the food bowl and put the food away. Of course, if your dog is still working on eating after 15 minutes, let them continue eating, but if he or she isn?t interested, calmly take it away. If your dog is a healthy adult, wait another 24 hours before you try again. Put the same amount of food down, and give your pooch another 15 or 20 minutes to eat. You can encourage your dog to eat, but again, don?t hover anxiously. If your dog refuses to eat, pick the food up as you did the day before and put it away. After a few days of this, healthy adult dogs will realize that this is the food that they are now getting, and will eat it from that point on. I have seen this more than once, and in fact, we used this method with Motley when we first got him. It took him two or three days before he would eat a SARF meal for the first time. Because his teeth and gums were in such poor shape, it took about a week before he was able to eat without

Raw meaty bones. ÂŠCybertrone | Dreamstime.com

his gums bleeding a bit, but we continued to give him chicken meat and bones, which are quite soft and easy for dogs to eat, until his teeth and gums got stronger and healthier. And now, of course, his teeth are strong and white, and his gums never bleed. If you have a dog that eats a SARF diet, but doesn?t seem to like a particular part of it (for example, he doesn?t like to eat the organ meat), there is something else you can try to entice him to eat. If you have a dog that has some obedience training, and you?ve used treats to train him, you can ask him to do some obedience (sit, stay, come, down, shake, etc.) and then use the meat he didn?t want as his ?treat.? We used this to great effect the first time or two that we gave Barkley liver, as he didn?t really want to try it but did seem to feel that he had earned it when it was given as a

treat. I asked him for a series of more difficult obedience maneuvers, and when he successfully performed them I praised him and gave him a bit of liver. Then we did more maneuvers, until eventually all the liver was gone. After that, he seemed to have no problem eating the liver. You can also try putting a small piece of whatever they don?t like on top of or layered inside of a large amount of what they do like to eat. This is useful when you are trying to get your dog to eat something they are reluctant to try, such as organ meat or a new protein type. Generally, once your dog has grown used to eating lots of variety, it is no longer an issue, but when you first start out, they may be hesitant to try a wide variety of things.

Merlin, an American Pit Bull Terrier, eating a deer carcass. Photo credit: Bre Altherr

If you have a dog that seems to hate a particular protein, but enjoys lots of other protein sources, you may want to consider not feeding that particular protein. Just like us, dogs have particular tastes, and as long as they are getting a wide variety of proteins and you are feeding a high-quality SARF diet, it may not be worth trying to force them to eat that one protein source they despise. For example, in our pack, Barkley dreads rabbit. Cleo and Elle will eat it, and Motley positively adores it, but Barkley will not touch it except very reluctantly, and sometimes not even then. So, because he gets such a wide variety of other proteins, we don?t force the issue. It is a genuine dislike for the rabbit that leads him to avoid it, and he eagerly eats everything else. There are things I don?t like either, so I can relate.

Finally, if your dog has been eating a SARF diet happily for a while, and then doesn?t seem to want to eat for a day or two, I would suggest keeping an eye on him or her but not forcing the issue too much. Just like us, sometimes they may feel a bit under the weather and may not be interested in eating. The digestive process takes quite a bit of energy, so if the body is out of balance, it is often better to let that energy go towards healing than towards digesting. Continue to offer the food, but don?t force it. We went through a period of 3-4 days in the summer when Cleo wasn?t interested in eating at all. We monitored her, but she was normal except that she wasn?t interested in eating, and she slept a bit more. After three or four days, her appetite returned, and she went back to happily eating whatever was placed in front of her with gusto. If this occurs and you are concerned

Enzo, an Alaskan Malamute, with a deer carcass. Photo credit: Bre Altherr

about it, you can set up an appointment with a certified animal naturopath, but generally speaking, in a healthy dog, this is not a cause for concern.

you feed your dog, even if it requires you to get a little creative at first with how you get them to eat, and your dog will soon happily be eating the way nature intended.

Above all, remember that this is a journey, and relax and trust the process. Have fun with how

-By Kristin Clark

Lolo, a Border Collie, enjoying a raw meaty bone. Photo credt: Erin O'Connor

SPOTLIGHTONHEALTH:DR.JEANNIETHOMASON Jeannie and Connor, a Standard Poodle. Photo credit: Jeannie Thomason

This issue, I am delighted to bring you an interview with Dr. Jeannie Thomason, founder of the Natural Rearing Breeders Association (NRBA) and co-founder of the American Council of Animal Naturopathy (ACAN). Dr. Thomason has written and co-written several books (including Essential Oils in Animal Care: A Naturopathic Approach, available through Amazon); her latest book, Natural Rearing: Breeding & Raising Dogs the Way Nature Intended, is available by going to http://www.wholedognews.com/ naturalrearingbreedingandraisingdogs/. Dr. Thomason is one of the guiding lights of animal naturopathy, and her passion is evident in everything she does. I hope you enjoy the interview!

Jeannie and Gabe, a Standard Poodle. Photo credit: Jeannie Thomason

1) I know that you are passionate about naturopathy, natural health, and natural dog rearing. How did you first find out about natural feeding/ healthcare and natural rearing of dogs? What drew you to them? I?d also love to get some insight on how you got to where you are today. Dr. Thomason: Okay, going to date myself now, but I learned about natural health and lifestyle in the seventies and began living naturally myself. I had just graduated from a conventional health career school and became a licensed veterinary technician. I had been hired just prior to graduation to work at a mixed animal veterinary practice. It was only ?natural? for me to begin to care for my own dog at the time? naturally. I began reading labels on dog food packages and paying extra to purchase what I thought at the time to be

the very best ingredients I could find. As I continued to dig deeply into study and research on natural human health, I began to see a big disconnect and stopped feeding processed pet food of any kind and began to cook for my dog while adding herbs and minerals to her food. As I learned more, I stopped cooking and began feeding raw meats, vegetables, and some cooked grains, but soon progressed to eliminating the grains and vegetables and feeding a prey model diet. I was completely self-taught, and there were hardly any books or information available on caring for our companion animals naturally. In fact, I never even met anyone else feeding their dogs raw, let alone prey model style, until the early nineties. While working in the conventional veterinary field, I could not help but compare the difference in my own naturally fed and cared for dogs with the ones coming into the clinic I worked at. The client?s dogs had dull coats, runny eyes, plaque-laden teeth, etc. Then I witnessed first-hand the puppies coming in for their first check-ups and receiving their vaccinations; first dose of topical flea and tick drops; and chewable, so-called heartworm prevention. These same puppies came back every two weeks for what conventional veterinary medicine calls ?booster vaccinations.? More often than not, those same puppies started experiencing so-called allergies and/ or digestive issues, and some were even diagnosed with idiopathic epilepsy. Part of my job was to fill the prescriptions the veterinarians would write up for these puppies. Always the same thing? always they were sent home with a bag of prescription kibble, antibiotics, and steroids. The ones having seizures were sent home with Phenobarbital. I personally had begun to only give one initial

King, an American Bully. Photo credit: Kim Bloomer

vaccine to my own dogs shortly after beginning to work with veterinarians. However, it was not long before I stopped giving even one. As the years went by, I saw most of the same puppies that came in for their first check-ups and exams grow up and continue to come in for yearly vaccines and ever-stronger antibiotics and assorted medications. Many of these puppies were so sickly by the time they were 4-6 years old that their owners opted for euthanasia due to the dog?s chronic suffering. I wept with the owners as they gave up in frustration and anguish and agreed to have them ?put to sleep? because they were told that everything had been done and there was now no hope of recovery. My life experiences working as a Veterinary Technician and as a natural rearing breeder kept spurring me on to more and more study, and then eventually on to earning my doctorate in animal naturopathy. 2) What inspired your newest book? Dr. Thomason: My life with dogs and my passion to learn and share what I have learned, not only with other breeders but also with 17

those who have dogs in their own lives, have inspired me to write all the articles I?ve written over the years. I believe that I was divinely urged to write this book. 3) When will it be available? Dr. Thomason: It was sent to the printer on New Year?s Eve and should be available for shipping by the end of January. 4) Who is it targeted towards? Dr. Thomason: Dog owners and breeders alike? really, anyone interested in knowing how to have a naturally physically and mentally healthy dog.

get your puppy from. If you have money to spend and you don?t mind spending a lot of it at a veterinary clinic nearly every month, or going though several dog trainers to help with behavior problems, and you can handle the stress and pain of losing that puppy to dis-ease and early death, then by all means go buy a puppy from the local shelter or rescue organization, even though that puppy was bred by someone who was just trying to make money, not because they cared about the future health and welfare of the puppy. 8) How large is the Natural Rearing Breeders Association?

5) What sort of differences do you see between naturally reared dogs and conventionally reared dogs?

Dr. Thomason: We have just under 100 truly Naturally Rearing (NR) breeder members of different breeds of dogs at this time.

Dr. Thomason: I see much shorter lifespans in conventionally reared dogs and lifespans that begin to deteriorate at younger and younger ages. There always seems to be at least one health issue or another that veterinarians have told the owner is common, and they always seem to have something to eliminate the symptoms for them. They can?t ever offer a cure, but they have medications to suppress the symptoms for a short period of time. Truly naturally reared dogs (from truly naturally reared sires and dams) rarely have any chronic health issues.

9) What requirements are there for someone who wants to be listed as a Naturally Rearing breeder? Dr. Thomason: We require the breeder to have fed a raw diet to their dogs for at least three years (no processed food at all). Additionally, their puppies have to be weaned to raw, and they don?t vaccinate their puppies. We have an application that has to be filled out and

6) Do you consistently find that later generations of naturally reared dogs live longer, healthier lives than others? Dr. Thomason: Absolutely! 7) What sort of advice do you give to people who are looking for a puppy? Dr. Thomason: If you want a puppy that will live a longer life and be intelligent and mentally stable, then look for a natural rearing breeder to

Lycan, a Belgian Malinois, on a tree. Photo credit: Bre Altherr

signed, and they must agree to adhere to our code of ethics. 10) Do you have any specific ideas on why diseases like cancer are appearing in our dogs at younger and younger ages? Dr. Thomason: Yes, I do have specific ideas on why cancer is appearing in young dogs. Mainly, the dog?s immune system has been compromised by improper diet and a toxic lifestyle. I talk a lot about this in my book. 11) Are you seeing these sorts of diseases among any of the naturally bred/ raised dogs? Dr. Thomason: Only occasionally, and usually only in dogs that are only first- or second-generation truly naturally reared. 12) There are lots of raw diet philosophies out there (commercially prepared raw, prey model raw, a mix of raw foods that are cut up for the animal, etc.). Have you found one type that you prefer?

Irish Wolfhound puppy. ÂŠSheilalena

Dr. Thomason: I believe dogs are carnivores and their anatomy and physiology prove they are, so I believe they should be fed and cared for as carnivores no matter what their size, breed, or activity level. 13) What is your background? Dr. Thomason: I am an animal naturopath with a doctorate in veterinary naturopathy. I am certified in aromatherapy and small animal nutrition. I have been breeding and raising dogs naturally for 30 years. I have shown my dogs in conformation shows, and I am a ?Breeder of Merit? with the American Kennel Club (AKC). As the co-founder of the American Council of Animal Naturopathy, I wrote and continue to write some of the coursework there, and have written articles for various magazines over the years. I am currently working on my next book on naturally rearing puppies.

THEDESIGNOFACARNIVORE This wonderful graphic (reprinted here with permission from the authors/ designers) was designed by Drs. Erin O'Connor and Jeannie Thomason (with the help of Lolo, Dr. O'Connor's beautiful Border Collie), to demonstrate some of the unique physiological traits that make a carnivore a carnivore. Our carnivore pets have evolved

these traits over millenia, and because of them, it is important to feed them a species-appropriate diet (raw meat, bones, organs, and glands). I love this graphic because it shows, in an easy-to-understand format, why our carnivore pets (including dogs, cats, and ferrets) can and should eat a species-appropriate diet.

THEIMPORTANCEOFFRESHAIR In this issue of Raw Pet Digest, we take a look at the sixth law of health: fresh air. It may sound simple (and really, it is), but making sure your pet gets out in the fresh air every single day is vital to helping them maintain a strong, balanced immune system. It also means keeping fresh air moving through the house, since both we and our pets spend a majority of the time inside. This is especially important if you have an indoor cat, as they need fresh air too. Whether you have dogs or cats, try to make sure that they get outside every single day. For dogs, this can mean taking them for a walk, playing catch, or letting them run around at the dog park. For cats, this might mean taking them out with a harness and leash, or setting up a safe enclosure for them outside so they can be in the fresh air for several hours each day. Generally, if you are following the second law of health? daily exercise? your pet is getting access to fresh air. And, if you leave some windows open slightly in your house, then your house will still get fresh air even when the weather

isn?t optimal outside. Fresh air is beneficial for many different reasons. Research published in the journal Environmental Pollution shows that trees can reduce air pollution, which is especially beneficial for those people and pets that live in areas where air is more heavily polluted, such as cities. Getting out into the fresh air can also help the immune system stay strong and healthy. Taking a walk or engaging in other types of exercise can increase immunity because it can lead to an increase in various white blood cells. Not only good for the body, fresh air is also vitally important to maintaining a balance in the mind and spirit. Breathing the fresh air, and the various smells in it, can do a myriad of things, such as promote relaxation, increase feelings of happiness, and decrease stress. This is especially important for our animals, who as carnivores are designed to be out in the fresh air, tracking and hunting prey. Fresh air has also been shown to energize us. Researchers have found that being out in the fresh air actually increases energy in the vast majority of people. I would posit that this is not just true for people, either. Taking our pets out in the fresh air seems to have a revitalizing effect on them as well. Giving our pets access to fresh air is so important if we are to support them in thriving. It helps nurture their minds, bodies, and spirits, and supports all the other laws of health. So, open the windows in your home and office, even if it?s only a small amount, and get outside for at least 30 minutes or so per day, at a minimum. Make sure your pet gets out too, and together, experience all that the fresh air has to offer.

Barkley, a Border Collie mix, enjoying some fresh air at the Chino Hills Dog Park. Photo credit: Kristin Clark

-By Kristin Clark

NATURALGROOMING

Breezy, a Springer Spaniel. Photo credit: Bre Altherr

Most of us get a dog to be an everyday part of our lives, an addition to our family. But how do we keep them smelling pleasant? How do we keep their coats nice and shiny? And just how often should they be bathed or groomed? Some may tell you to bathe your pet once a month, and some may even recommend weekly baths to ensure a clean pet and home, but as a natural groomer, my recommendations may differ from what most other groomers may suggest. I believe that by following the eight laws of health? nutrition, exercise, fresh filtered water, sunlight and supplements when necessary, temperance, fresh air, rest, and trust? you have the absolute best terrain possible for successful natural grooming. While the old saying ?You are what you eat? may sound clichĂŠ, it is nonetheless true even for our pets. The skin and coat are the last to receive nutrients in the body, which is just one of the reasons why feeding a species-appropriate diet is key in pet health. In my experience, raw-fed dogs do not have greasy, oily, flaky, smelly skin, nor do they shed as much as dogs fed a conventional diet. Of course all dogs are going to shed to some degree, but raw-fed dogs tend to shed minimally and rarely have any type of ?doggy odor.? That alone is enough reason to feed a raw diet, if you ask me! So, if I?m feeding a species-appropriate diet, following the eight laws of heath, and wish to groom my dog naturally, just how often should my dog be bathed? Bathing your healthy dog more than a couple times per year isn?t necessary. Frequent baths can ruin the natural balance of oils that your dog?s body produces to keep their coat healthy. Now, obviously, if your dog gets in the mud or rolls in something foul, then of course a bath would be in order.

In addition to a few baths per year, I recommend brushing your dog every other day, if not daily, to remove dead hair and skin that would otherwise end up in your home and to help distribute the natural oils throughout the coat. Regular brushing also gives you the opportunity to notice any changes in your dog, such as cuts, scrapes, lumps, bumps, fleas, and/ or ticks. Choosing the right shampoo for your dog can be tough since there are so many on the market today. A lot of the shampoos will even be labeled ?natural? or ?organic,? but don?t let those titles fool you. Be sure to check the ingredients because many are actually carcinogenic. Just a few ingredients to be sure to stay away from are Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MEA, TEA Lauryl Sulfate, and Propylene Glycol. Using a 100% natural shampoo that contains pure essential oils, vegetable proteins, and herbs cleans the skin and coat without drying them out and clogging the pores with chemicals. I prefer to use Young Living?s Animal ScentsÂŽ Shampoo for my own dogs. After bathing your dog, it is important to comb or brush your dog?s coat, particularly if you have a longer-coated dog. Using the right tools for your dog?s coat type is key to maintaining a smooth coat that is free of any snarls or mats. A mat is a tangled bunch of hair, held together by interwoven fibers. Some mats are easier to remove than others depending on the coat type of the dog. Fine-coated breeds like Poodles, Bichons, Cocker Spaniels, etc. are most susceptible to matting and can be very difficult to brush out. If left untreated, mats can become very tight and painful, pull on the skin and coat, and often lead to open sores.

Liesel, a Minature Schnauzer, after being naturally groomed. Photo credit: Bre ALtherr

There are ten different coat types found among dogs, so choosing the tool best suited for the coat you?re grooming is important. Rubber brushes are ideal both in and out of the bathtub for smooth-coated dogs, such as American Pit Bull Terriers, German Short Hair Pointers, and so on, as they grip the short dead hairs for easy and painless removal. These rubber brushes can also be used on short-coated breeds such as Labradors, but I also recommend using a rake and/ or slicker bush in combination to remove as much dead undercoat as possible. The other eight coat types? curly and wavy, combination, double, wire, heavy, silky, corded, and natural long hair? require different tools. Combs, slicker brushes, shedding tools, and even stripping knives and pumice stones (for wire-coated breeds) are the best choices when it comes to brushing and maintaining your dog?s natural coat. When you are brushing your dog, be sure to pay extra attention to the armpits, in between the toes, and behind the ears. These areas are often overlooked, and they are very susceptible to matting because

they are high-friction areas. The good news is that they can be detangled with ease if mats and snarls are detected early enough. Clipping and scissoring your dog is not absolutely necessary, but it may be required if you wish to maintain a particular look for your dog. Most pet owners like to stick to the breed?s standard, but some owners prefer a custom look all their own. Clipping ?potty areas? can be a very useful procedure for keeping those areas clean and free from matting and debris. Our dog?s toenails are often overlooked, but maintaining them is such an important part of caring for our animals. If you regularly walk your dog on a hard surface, such as the sidewalk or road, then your dog?s nails are most likely short and should not require trimming because those surfaces act like an emery board and will file down the nails as your dog walks. However, most dogs do not get appropriate exercise or are limited to grassy areas, which do not file down the toenails. Long nails are unsightly and also present potential health problems. Untended nails may grow long enough to cause the entire tendon and

Maverick, a Poodle mix, before and after his natural grooming session. Photo credit: Bre Altherr

bone structure of the foot and pastern to break down, causing pain and structural damage to your pet. Overgrown toenails also run the risk of growing into the dog?s pad, which is very painful and may even have to be surgically removed by a veterinarian. There are two ways to trim your dog?s nails; the first is to use traditional dog nail clippers, which come in either a guillotine or a scissor style. The nail should be trimmed back as far as possible without cutting into the vein or quick. The second option for trimming your dog?s nails is to use a Dremel tool, which is what I prefer. The Dremel can take a little getting used to, but in the end, I find that it

gives you a shorter, smoother nail, free from any splits or sharp ends. When the diet is correct and your dog is healthy, there is no need to regularly clean your dog?s ears. Occasionally wiping out your dog?s ears with a damp cloth to clear any dirt or debris will suffice. For dogs with hair growing from the ear canal, the usual protocol is to remove or pluck that hair. Both Dr. Jeannie Thomason, natural rearing breeder of Standard Poodles, and I have found that keeping the hair trimmed back does a better job at keeping those ears nice and clean, and it is also a simple and painless experience for the dog. If for some reason your dog?s ears are stinky, waxy, or grimy, always look to the dog?s diet for the solution, as everything starts there.

Bre dremeling Merlin's nails. Photo credit: Bre Altherr 26

If necessary, while you?re adjusting the diet, you can apply an ear cleaner that is free of chemicals and alcohol to remove the wax and build-up, but this should only be used in the short-term while you address the root problem. Over time, following the eight laws of health, the body will be able to heal itself and the ear issue will subside. Natural grooming may not be the norm anymore, but I believe this is how our pets are designed to be maintained and cared for.

Lizzie, a Miniature Schnauzer, before and after her natural grooming session. Photo credit: Bre Altherr

Finding a natural groomer can be difficult or even impossible depending on where you live. If so, all of these things can easily be done in the comfort of your own home by yourself. Just do a little research on the breed you have, their coat type, and the look you want to achieve, and I?m positive you can and will be successful! -By Breanne Altherr Remington, a Cairn Terrier, after being hand stripped. Photo credit: Bre Altherr

Bre Altherr has been grooming dogs for nine years. Certified as a groomer, she also co-owns Sit Means Sit Northern Indianapolis with her husband, Chris Altherr. Prior to purchasing Sit Means Sit Northern Indianapolis, they owned another dog training facility. They offer training, boarding, and grooming at their Sit Means Sit facility. Additionally, Bre is a candidate with the American Council of Animal Naturopathy, and is very knowledgeable about animal naturopathy and carnivore nutrition. Her beautiful dogs frequently grace the pages of this magazine.

NATURALALTERNATIVES:COLLOIDALSILVER In our first Raw Pet Digest survey, a majority of the respondents said that they wanted to learn more about natural alternatives to conventional medications and treatments. And so, this and future issues will bring you information about different natural options you can use when your pet is sick or injured and needs natural support that will help them come back into balance and thrive. Antibiotics and other conventional medical ?treatments? for the injuries and illnesses that our dogs and cats (and even us humans) encounter are frequently more detrimental to their health than the injuries and illnesses

themselves. But when your dog or cat is injured, or not feeling well, it can be difficult to find an alternative. Oftentimes, we resort to conventional medications because we feel we should do ?something.? But, when we employ conventional methods, often we do more damage to our pet than if we had done nothing at all. Because the conventional approach is often harmful to the pet?s immune system, we make it even harder for their bodies to fight off infection and maintain a strong and healthy terrain. In this issue, we will look at colloidal silver, which is a great natural option for a myriad of things that your pet (or even you) might experience.

Barkley at the Chino Hills Dog Park. Photo credit: Kristin Clark

Colloidal silver is made when silver particles are suspended in clean, demineralized water and then combined with the water via an electric current. A colloid is a substance in which one substance of microscopically dispersed insoluble particles is suspended throughout another substance, hence the name ?colloidal silver.? The silver particles, which are very fine, remain suspended in the water. Because it is a colloid, the mixture won?t settle, or at least takes a very long time to settle. Some colloidal silvers are ?chelated,? which means that they are firmly attached, often to an amino acid (or some other organic component), so that they stay associated in the digestive system. Chelation improves absorption. Because of the way silver is structured on a chemical basis, it does not build up as a heavy metal in the body, and it is not toxic. Colloidal silver is frequently called a ?natural

Field of wildflowers. ÂŠBetty4240

antibiotic,? but unlike a broad-spectrum antibiotic, which wipes out all the bacteria, colloidal silver inhibits enzyme production in pathogens (the so-called bad bacteria) instead of killing everything. Part of the problem with traditional antibiotics is that they disrupt the balance of beneficial and non-beneficial bacteria in the digestive system; because the non-beneficial bacteria tend to come back much more quickly, this can have an ongoing negative impact on the health of the immune system (for more about antibiotics, please see the December 2015/ January 2016 issue of Raw Pet Digest). Colloidal silver, however, works with the body to support the immune system. While it can still reduce beneficial flora somewhat if taken long-term, it is a much better alternative to something like a broad-spectrum, conventional antibiotic. And, another benefit is that microbes don?t build up a resistance to colloidal silver as they do with pharmaceutical antibiotics, because

of silver?s ability to work in a multi-faceted manner (through catalytic oxidation, reaction with cell membranes, and binding with the DNA of the disease organism to prevent them from replicating). Because the silver has multiple methods to attack pathogens, they cannot develop a resistance to it.

guess from something that is known as a natural antibiotic, it is great at assisting the body in dealing with infections and diseases, whether the issue is bacterial, fungal (think yeast infections), or viral. And, rather than spraying bleach or using harsh chemicals, you can use colloidal silver as a preventative when your pet is exposed to Many people describe colloidal silver as potentially sick animals. Remember, pathogens anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral, and don?t build up a resistance to it, which also makes anti-microbial, but I do not think of it as it very useful as a regular household disinfectant. ?anti? anything. Instead, it is a natural way to Another great way to use colloidal silver is as a support the immune system in a variety of support for pets that are experiencing eye ways. Now that you have a basic problems. Because colloidal silver doesn?t sting, understanding of what it is and how it works, you can actually spray it directly into your pet?s let?s take a look at how you can use colloidal eyes if they are experiencing infections, allergies, silver. inflammation, or even tear staining. For instance, One of the best things about colloidal silver, my dog Barkley recently had some irritation in his in my opinion, is that it doesn?t sting. That left eye. He was holding his nictating membrane, means that it can be applied directly to or third eyelid, over his eye as though it had been wounds without the pain or stinging that scratched or had some irritant in it. While it wasn?t many topical wound sprays, and even things bad and I couldn?t find anything in his eye, it like hydrogen peroxide, cause. For example, didn?t go away after an hour or two, so I sprayed a one of our dogs, Motley, recently ripped one bit of colloidal silver in his eye to help support his of his back claws completely off. I was able to body in case he had a little eye infection. It did not spray colloidal silver directly on the wound cause him any distress, and after a day or so his several times per day to keep it free of eye issue cleared up. While chances are good that infection. Once the nub of his nail grew back it would have cleared up without the colloidal and there was no longer an open wound that silver, I wanted to give his body that extra bit of could get infected, I stopped applying support while it addressed whatever was going colloidal silver. I could also have applied it on. topically with a cotton swab if I had preferred. And, if he had a skin infection or a burn, or even a larger wound, I could have sprayed it directly on the affected area or applied it with a compress. Because it doesn?t sting or burn, and because it helps support the body in repairing tissue damage, colloidal silver is very valuable in treating skin issues and wounds topically.

There is also evidence to support the use of colloidal silver in addressing things like colds, bronchitis, pneumonia, and other respiratory issues. You and/ or your pet can inhale it as a mist; breathing it in this way could help support your lungs or your pet?s lungs if there is a respiratory problem.

Finally, you may choose to administer colloidal silvery orally. Often, it is a good idea to support Colloidal silver is good for more than just your pet?s body and immune system by treating skin issues, though. As you would administering colloidal silver both orally and 30

topically. Read the guidelines and do your research to determine the correct amount to administer orally. Because colloidal silver essentially tastes like water, it is very easy to give orally.

ensure it is a reputable brand. Overall, it is definitely a great item to have in your natural alternative treatment kit, whether it is for you or your pet. -By Kristin Clark

As you can see, colloidal silver has a plethora of uses, and it is incredibly easy to use. Do your research when buying colloidal silver to

Tree blossoms. Photo credit: Milton Clark

STEROIDSINOURPETS Steroids. These days, vets routinely prescribe steroids, such as prednisone, prednisolone, dexamethasone, and betamethasone, for a vast array of issues, including asthma, upper respiratory symptoms, inflammatory bowel disease (or inflammatory bowel syndrome), inflammation of the skin, inflammation of the colon, inflammation of the small intestine, some types of cancers, and auto-immune disorders. Why is this? Well, in large part it?s because steroids appear to work very quickly, which gives pet owners the false belief that their dog or cat?s issue is gone. However, is it really such a good idea to use steroids to address your pet?s health issues? In this article, we will look at how steroids work, what they do to your pet, and some alternatives for them. As you know, the best way to ensure your pet thrives is to support their immune system, making sure it is balanced and strong. Feeding a species-appropriate diet, following the eight laws of health, eliminating toxins in your home, using natural healing modalities? all of these are done to help support and balance the immune system. And yet, steroids suppress the immune system. Yep, you read that right. They work by suppressing the immune system. This means that they actually prevent the body from employing its natural ability to stay strong, healthy, and balanced. As you know, when your pet is experiencing health issues, the only way to truly help them move past it is to address the root cause of those issues, rather than suppressing them. When the immune system is suppressed, the body?s natural ability to address health issues and thrive is compromised.

Vet giving a dog medication. ÂŠLensonfocus

Like antibiotics, steroids are broad-spectrum. This means that they don?t target a specific area of your pet?s body, but rather affect every single part of them, from their bones to their muscles, blood, organs, nervous system, and so on. Because they suppress the immune system and affect every part of our pets? bodies, steroids have profound and dismaying side effects. For example, steroids such as prednisone (known as a corticosteroid) actually stimulate the liver to release sugar while simultaneously interfering with the body?s insulin. This can actually cause diabetes in your pet. If your pet doesn?t have enough insulin (which is, of course, a sign that the body is out of balance), they may experience low energy, lethargy, weight loss, increased thirst, changes in appetite (such as eating too much or not eating at all), and increased urination. Diabetes and all that goes along with it aren?t the only side effect of steroid use. Steroids can also cause liver damage, adrenal insufficiency, inability to deal with stress, and brittle bones. It doesn?t end there. Excessive panting, vomiting, diarrhea, changes in behavior, Cushing?s disease, 32

inhibited growth in young animals, gastrointestinal issues (such as ulcers), hair loss, blood clots, pancreatitis, and the development or worsening of infections are also all noted side effects of steroid use. These side effects, especially the last one I mentioned? the development or worsening of infections? should come as no surprise. Remember, the whole point of steroids is to suppress the immune system. When you give steroids, you effectively prevent the body from being able to mount any kind of defense against pathogens and viruses. Additionally, you throw the whole system out of balance, weakening the body?s internal terrain and, again, making it almost impossible for the body to achieve and maintain optimal health. In addition to all of these side effects, when you use steroids, remember that you are also suppressing the symptom of whatever the issue is, which means that the imbalance that led to that symptom isn?t addressed. So, not only have you introduced all these potential (and sometimes devastating) side effects to your pet, you also haven?t addressed the real problem either, which means that it will come back, and often more severely than when it initially appeared.

Dexter, a Maine Coon cat. Photo credit: Kristin Clark

So what are some alternatives to steroid use? If your pet is suffering from symptoms that would conventionally be treated with the administration of steroids, you may want to reconsider giving the steroids in the first place. Instead, work to identify the underlying cause of the issue. Are you feeding a species-appropriate diet (including feeding a wide variety of proteins that are grass-fed, organic, and hormone- and antibiotic-free)? Is your pet getting an appropriate amount of exercise? Do they have access to fresh air and sunshine every day? Are they receiving the supplements they need (if any)? Do they get clean, pure water? Do they get quality rest? Is your home free from toxic chemicals? Are they over-vaccinated, or have they received antibiotics or other harsh conventional ?treatments? for any issues? Are they going through a healing response? Are you using natural healing modalities to address any weaknesses or imbalances they may have? By making sure that you are supporting the immune system in becoming the most balanced and strongest it can be, you go a long way towards addressing the underlying cause of your pet?s symptoms. If you need additional guidance, you can work with a certified animal naturopath rather than resorting to conventional approaches like steroids, which can do an incredible amount of damage. For a list of naturopaths certified by the American Council of Animal Naturopathy, go to http:/ / www.animalnaturopathy.org/ practitioners/ . Remember, the best thing you can do to help your pet thrive is to build up and support their immune system so it can handle anything that comes its way. -By Kristin Clark 33

FLEAANDTICK PREVENTION:PART2

Gryphon the cat. Photo credit: Kristin Clark

In the December 2015/ January 2016 issue, we started a two-part series on fleas and ticks. Part 1 talked a lot about conventional flea and tick medications, like Frontline速 Plus and K9 Advantix速 .In the second part of the series, we are going to discuss some natural alternatives to these more conventional approaches. Species-appropriat e raw f ood diet When you feed your carnivore pet a species-appropriate raw food diet, their bodies are able to come into harmony. Their internal terrain? especially their immune system? is supported, and it becomes balanced and strong. And, as anyone that has been feeding a species-appropriate diet for any length of time can tell you, the pet no longer attracts fleas and ticks the way a conventionally fed animal does. Couple this with following the eight laws of health and removing toxins from your pet and their living environment, and you have an animal that has some very powerful built-in defenses against fleas and ticks. The healthier the animal, the less likely that any parasite (and that of course includes fleas and ticks) will be a problem.

This has been demonstrated among my own pack time and time again. Before we started feeding a species-appropriate raw food diet and following the eight laws of health, we regularly had flea and tick infestations. The only way we knew to control them was through regular applications of Frontline速 Plus, and when we decided to stop applying that because of the dangers it contained, the flea and tick population exploded. Our dogs, especially Elle, were miserable. Constantly itching, it seemed they were at the mercy of every flea for miles, and we would come back from walks to find ticks all over them. However, once we began following the eight laws of health for the pack, the infestations stopped. There were no more. We didn?t use Frontline速 Plus, or any ?natural? commercial product, to control the parasites. We simply built up their immune systems, and the fleas and ticks no longer seemed interested. They didn?t infest our dogs or cause any more problems. Does this mean that our dogs never pick up a single tick? Of course not. We take them lots of places that have ticks, and every once in a great while we find a solitary tick crawling on them, and in even rarer instances, one may actually latch on. And, while we haven?t seen a flea on any of them since we switched their diet, I wouldn?t be surprised to learn that they might have had one or two hitch a ride for a brief time. However, we have never had an issue with them. When we find a tick, we simply remove it and move on. We trust their own internal defenses to keep them parasite-free. Bal ance in al l t hings

Cleo, a Canaan dog, out on a hike. Photo credit: Kristin Clark

It is important to remember that we want to help our pets achieve balance, not stagnation. Nature is ever-changing, and the strong immune system is the one that can adapt to those changes and, in the adaptation, become 35

stronger. Fleas and ticks play an important role in this. They are part of the ecosystem, and so the goal of a natural health program should not be to eradicate them altogether through the use of conventional preventatives. Without some adversity, the immune system cannot stay nimble, and the very occasional flea and tick can be understood to be part of this adversity. This is very foreign to the way most of us have grown up thinking. We seek to eradicate everything that seems the least bit unpleasant. Just look at all the anti-bacterial hand soaps, disinfectants, and harsh toxic cleaners that are touted to destroy, eradicate, and kill all (or at least 99% or more) germs. Conventional flea and tick preventatives aim to annhilate all fleas and ticks from your pet. But I suggest that nature focuses on the relationships and balance between all things, and therefore, so should a natural health program. As Maneka Gandhi said, ?Shift your perception to tolerance. Instead of seeing every interaction as a trespass that requires a retaliation of toxic force, why not embrace these encounters as an opportunity?? Ants, spiders, and birds are natural predators of ticks. Ants also eat fleas and flea larvae. Beneficial nematodes eat fleas, grubs, beetles, termites, and more. Praying mantises eat a wide range of other insects, including grasshoppers, flies, mosquitoes, caterpillars, and beetles. Crab spiders help control fleas, flies, aphids, and leafhoppers. Ladybugs can help control aphids, spider mites, and weevils. Green Lacewings will voraciously consume aphids, caterpillars, beetles, and white flies. The Flower fly is very effective against aphids, and Minute Potato Bugs consume spider mites and insect eggs. Nature provides natural parasite control, in a way that maintains a

Ladybugs and praying mantises, along with many other insects, act as natural pest control. ÂŠTenrook

healthy balance. Unfortunately, when we spray pesticides and other poisons, we kill the very things that are meant to provide a control on parasite populations. We disturb the balance of things. Nat ural f l ea and t ick repel l ent s If you have just made the switch to a species-appropriate raw food diet, your pet may not have had enough time to balance their immune system and may need some additional help in addressing fleas and ticks. In these instances, there are a few options for natural flea and tick repellents. Therapeutic-grade essential oils (I specifically recommend ones from Young Living) are very effective at repelling fleas and ticks. However, they should be applied whenever you take your pet into an area where they will be exposed to fleas and ticks, rather than once per month like conventional treatments. There are lots of essential oils that are great as natural flea and tick repellents, including Tea 36

Tree, Lemongrass, Pine, Cedarwood, Lemon, Lavender, Sage, Thyme, Citronella, and Purification essential oils. One caveat: certain essential oils can be toxic to cats, so please do your research before you use any essential oils on or around cats. If I want to make a homemade flea repellent, I put Â˝ cup of distilled water, 8-12 drops of the essential oil of my choice (my most frequent go-tos are Citronella and Purification, but I do use the others listed above), and a drop of Thieves hand soap (made by Young Living) or Castile soap (used as an emollient) into a dark glass bottle, shake it vigorously, and then spray it directly on my pet. Sometimes I combine several different oils, such as Lavender, Lemongrass, and Peppermint, to be more effective against several pests at once (this blend, for example, would be helpful at keeping fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes away). Although I don't do this every time we go on a hike, I generally do it if we're going somewhere I know

Barkley by a large pond. Photo credit: Kristin Clark

has lots of ticks and potentially fleas and/ or mosquitoes. When using a natural flea and tick repellent like this, remember to spray it on your pet as needed. A few spritzes go a long way, too? you don?t need to douse them. And, you can also spray it on yourself as well? after all, you don?t want to get attacked either! Concl usion As you can see, fleas and ticks are part of the natural order of things. While none of us wants to see them infesting our pets, their presence (or lack thereof) can be a valuable indicator on the overall health of our dog or cat. There are lots of natural alternatives to conventional preventatives available, and once you begin to really support your pet?s immune system along with the environment in which they live in a natural way, you should find that the flea and tick problem basically takes care of itself. -By Kristin Clark

THEGIFTOFLOVE

Meshach, a Great Dane. Photo credit: Kim Bloomer

While we all have faced hardships and challenges in the last few years, there were great highlights and high points that were revealed because of those very hardships and challenges. The U.S.A. faced many challenges with the economy and all of the natural forces of nature that wreaked havoc on areas around the country. However, so many people stepped up to help in such kind and creative ways that it gave me a sense of renewed hope. Or maybe it was because my own heart was so ripped apart that the only way to mend was to see all the good around me. The gift of love in the form of a Great Dane puppy we named Meshach was suddenly torn from our lives due to inherited vaccinosis? a common yet unrecognized (by the conventional medical community) problem in our pets today. Maybe losing a dog isn?t such a big deal to some people, but Meshach wasn?t just a dog, and I am not just some people. Animals are my business, but more importantly they are my heart. The Great Dane is my dog and breed of choice. I had not had one since I was 18 years old, until Meshach came along and was very generously bestowed upon me by my friend Kim Felix of SisCoDanes.com. This was an especially generous gift since Meshach was Kim?s pick of litter for the breeding; he was

Meshach. Photo credit: Kim Bloomer

show potential and I do not show. No one knew the damage that was lurking within him because we all thought he?d be such a healthy boy, especially since he was wholly naturally reared. Losing him at the tender age of 15 months when I did everything naturally, holistically, and naturopathically was devastating for me. My heart was torn asunder. My confidence and knowledge in my abilities as a doctor of animal naturopathy were shaken to the core. In fact, my confidence in natural health care was nearly destroyed. I thought to myself that since he was first-generation naturally reared, he should be healthy? never considering inherited vaccinosis or that the damage from vaccines can continue to cause problems for generations, especially if we don?t stop using them. I suppose I thought, ?What?s the difference if we use a natural approach or conventional? They still get sick and die.? It was a very dark place to be in. The good news is that my ego died right along with Meshach. But my faith in God has been greatly increased? that is, after the initial storm cleared. Only recently, I began to see the beauty emerging from the ashes of my own personal tragedy. I had a mentor once who used to say, ?Leave your ego at the door!? I used to ponder what she really meant by that or even why she always said that. Now I know? egos really do get in the way. Needless to say, I learned a lot from this tragedy, and while I wished there were sometimes better ways to learn life?s lessons, sometimes the hardest, most devastating lessons are what allow us to really embrace what we must learn in this journey called life. Losing my sweet little boy Meshach really was very devastating for me as I stated above. While we only had him for 13 months, he taught us so much in such a short time with 39

Thereisnosuchthingas?just?adog,cat,horse,bird. Theyareall individualstobelovedandcherishedfor thespecial beingstheyare. Howfortunatewearethat weget toshareour liveswiththemnomatter for how longor short?it issuchaprivilege! -Kim Bl oomer

such love and joy. Our immense love for him, and the immense heartache of our loss, is what has finally inspired me to really get out and begin sharing the gift of health and healing as I never have before. Of course I am still emerging from the darkness, but each day is a bit brighter than the previous one. I still long for my sweet Meshach every single day and would love to hug his sweet neck just one more time? something I?m sure every animal lover has experienced in their loss of a beloved companion. He taught me so many things that only a book would be able to contain them all? and for that I am forever grateful to him for coming to me as such a special gift of love. I do not regret anything about him because of what I learned, even though I have had to traverse such a dark place as a result. Yes, my confidence in natural health has been completely restored and taken to a whole new level because my confidence is now placed firmly in God Himself and His provision through nature? not through my own abilities or knowledge. There are a couple of songs that have helped me through my loss, but one that especially stands out is simply titled ?Held? by Natalie Grant: ?Two months is too little, they had no sudden healing? this is what it means to be held. How it feels when the sacred is torn from your life and you survive. This is what it is to be loved. And to know that the promise was when everything fell, we?d be held.? Some might think this is extreme because he was ?just a dog,? but to me there is no such thing as ?just? a dog, cat, horse, bird, etc. They are all individuals to be loved and cherished for the special beings they are. How fortunate we are that we get to share our lives with them no matter for how long or short? it is such a privilege! Meshach lived his short life in sheer joy every ?well? day he had. It was impossible to be upset

with him for long for a puppy mistake because he was so joyful that you had to join him in his joy. What a gift! He has enabled me to love better and deeper? stretching a firm heart is painful but necessary. Thank you Meshach? my special, sweet gift of love? for all of the love you poured out to us and made us better people as a result. I will love you always and forever. "Conduct is the grand test of character. Words are one great evidence of the condition of the heart.? ~ J.C. Ryle -By Kim Bloomer Dr. Kim Bloomer is a certified animal naturopath and published author, consulting on canine nutrition and wellness. She hosts the internet radio show, Animal Talk Naturally with colleague Dr. Jeannie Thomason. She is the Co-Founder/ President of the American Council of Animal Naturopathy. In addition, Dr. Kim is a proficient blogger and writer on natural pet health, having co-authored the book Whole Health for Happy Dogs and authored the book Animals Taught Me That. Dr. Kim?s articles have been featured in various publications such as Animal Wellness, Natural Horse, Dogs Naturally, NM Breeze, and the Pet Connection magazines. Her website is www.AspenbloomPetCare.com.

Meshach playing in the snow. Photo credit: Kim Bloomer