Adventura - Fall 2009 by Espaces

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FALL 2009 _ VOL. 1, NO. 3 _ www.adventuramag.ca

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JAPANESE AND A WHOLE LOT MORE!

Contents // Fall 2009 // No. 3

[04] EDITOR’S NOTE [06] FIELD REPORT • Tips from Laurie Skreslet • Fall activities and events • Swiss Army’s 125th anniversary • An interview with Alexandra Cousteau • Pro underwater photo tip • Wild new book on surfing

[10] DAYTRIPPER • Hiking in the Ganaraska Forest • Mountain biking at Albion Hills and Mont-Tremblant • Aerial trekking at Val-des-Monts

[12] WEEKEND GETAWAY Live (Suffer) and Learn

[22] GEAR

Cool Runnings

Learning lessons the hard way in the White Mountains

[14] LIVING LARGE

How to stay warm and dry in the colder seasons

Backpacks for all your outdoor needs

• Midland • Muskoka • Gananoque

[16] GLOBETROTTER

[26] POWER TRIP

Modern Montana

Lights, Camera and Action Filming a reality-show pilot in Chilean Patagonia

[20] FEATURE

Train Like a Pro Profiles of Canada’s top Olympic athletes and their training tips

A head of the Pack

A slice of Americana: Getting in touch with one’s inner cowboy

[28] Mind & Body

The 6 secrets of six-pack abs

[30] LAST CALL

Adventura _ FALL 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 3

EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOTE

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StĂŠphane Corbeil (stephane.corbeil@adventuramag.ca)

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Christian LĂŠvesque (christian.levesque@adventuramag.ca)

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Patricia Gajo (patricia.gajo@adventuramag.ca)

9EDJH?8KJEHI0 Katie Bailey, Brian Berusch, Susan Campbell, Mark Cardwell, Bryen Dunn, Nora Dunn, Pancho Gajo, Mark Edward Harris, Alexander Joo, Ilona Kauremszky, MĂŠlanie Lamontagne, Maureen Littlejohn, Austin Macdonald, Chantal Martineau, Daniel ParĂŠ, Julia Pyper, Natasha Viau-Skreslet, Doug Wallace, Jennifer Weatherhead

TToo many countries donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t respect human rights. How many? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very difďŹ cult to provide a clear answer. The Universal Declaration of Human Rights (UDHR), adopted in 1948 by the 58 members of the United Nations (which now counts 192 members), is not a treaty â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it serves more as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;guideline.â&#x20AC;? Even the United States is on the blacklist in this regard.

FHEE<;H0 Christopher Korchin JH7DIB7JEH0 Christine Laroche 9EL;H F>EJE0 A male mountain biker riding through the aspen trees in the fall, Utah. ÂŠ Eric Kiel / Aurora Photos

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Marie-Christine HallĂŠ, Sales Consultant mc.halle@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 27

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Isamie Dufour, isamie.dufour@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 30

IK8I9H?FJ?ED0 info@adventuramag.ca / 514-277-3477, ext. 21 IK8I9H?FJ?ED % >EC; :;B?L;HO H7J;I0 9%!2 )335%3 s 9%!23 )335%3 (taxes, handling and mailing costs included) Please make cheque payable to Groupe Espaces Inc and send to the address listed below.

:;I?=D0 SĂ¨ve crĂŠation (seve.ca) M;8I?J;0 www.adventuramag.ca ;:?JEH?7B :;F7HJC;DJ0 514-277-3477 | info@adventuramag.ca C7?B?D= 7::H;II0 Groupe Espaces Inc 911 Jean Talon St. E., Suite 205 Montreal (Quebec) | H2R 1V5

9?H9KB7J?ED0 60,000 copies distributed to outdoor enthusiasts everywhere. ADVENTURA is published four times a year by Groupe Espaces Inc.

7HJ?9B; IK8C?II?EDI ADVENTURA welcomes editorial and photo submissions, which must be sent by e-mail only. Contact the Editor to discuss. ADVENTURA is not responsible for articles, photographs or any other material sent to its attention. If you do not keep a copy of ADVENTURA magazine for your personal archives, please give it to a friend or recycle it.The opinions expressed are those of the authors and are not necessarily shared by Groupe Espaces Inc. Some of the activities reported on in ADVENTURA could entail injury risks for anyone engaging in them. ADVENTURA and its reporters, contributors, photographers and other staff members do not recommend the practice of these activities by anyone who does not have the required skills and technique. ADVENTURA is not responsible for the information contained in advertisements. Any reproduction of material published in ADVENTURA is prohibited without the expressed consent of Groupe Espaces Inc.

Should we stop travelling to countries that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t respect the spirit of this document? This is another difďŹ cult question to answer, and it concerns every one of us who dreams of discovering the four corners of the world â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even those going to all-inclusive resorts.

But what can travellers do about all of this? We can protest and decide to not cross renegade countriesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; borders. This directly affects the economy of the targeted country â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going to take a while before destination-diversion produces real change for the people we are trying to help. And would a repressive country change its policies because of a few principled travellers? Maybe, if this gesture is generalized, organized and popularized through the media. Otherwise, it would be without effect.

Whether the destination is the Dominican Republic, China, Myanmar, Pakistan or the United States, each travel opportunity should help us see a bit further and expand our understanding of our current world Everywhere an occidental tourist goes, many positive consequences situation. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s necessary to look further than the travel brochures follow: dialogue with local populations, deeper ties between countries, and travel books. Like our day-to-day purchases or the weekly recycling increased cultural diversity and important economic contributions. But we do, it is also possible to travel intelligently. Just as we reduce when a corrupt political system controls the our footprint, we can also improve social tourism sector, from ďŹ ve-star hotels to adventure ONLY 45% OF BILLS conditions abroad by choosing progressive PAID BY TOURISTS TO companies, we become partners in a repressive travel companies, avoiding tourist â&#x20AC;&#x153;trapsâ&#x20AC;? regime. We participate unintentionally in the very HOTEL CHAINS AND and asking for more ethically responsible acts we condemn. trips. We can also request local guides, bring TRAVEL AGENCIES useful gifts, get off the tourist path, ask GOES BACK TO THE The tourism economy is one of the largest in questions and listen to the answers. Adding COUNTRIES VISITED. the world. World Tourism Organization (WTO) to the joy of discovering a new culture, statistics show that total ďŹ nancial activity in this sector multiplied this way of travelling can greatly affect the people we encounter. The 40 times between 1950 and 2000. It is now worth $740 billion. The WTO witness role that every tourist plays is also important. In this digital era believes that only 45% of bills paid by tourists to hotel chains and travel of citizen journalism and Web 2.0, every traveller can share what theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve agencies goes back to the countries visited. And when corruption comes seen and learned. This can be an effective tool to defend human rights. in and takes the rest, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not much left for local development. Where to travel or not â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the decision is yours alone. And it is an So, is boycotting such destinations a viable solution? Before last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important one. Olympic Games in Beijing (which coincided with the 60th birthday of the UDHR), this idea circulated among several associations as Christian LĂŠvesque, Editor a good way to put human rights in the spotlight and get the Chinese christian.levesque@adventuramag.ca government to respect its citizens. But historically, boycotting the Olympics has never changed anything. And we are still ďŹ ghting hard to weed out corruption even in our own country.

IN MY PACK... Alizee Tiempo Just in time for the fall season, these new water-repellent pants from Quebecâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s AlizĂŠe were developed for when the going gets wet. With two lateral zippers opening up to the thighs (27â&#x20AC;?), you can put them on without taking off your boots if it suddenly starts raining. This laminated series (2.5 folds) will help you appreciate the fall colours without worrying about downpours. (Still, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hope for a sunny Indian summer.) I like the Velcro attach at the bottom of the pants, the incorporated belt loops and the elastic band at the waist to adjust to every shape. Also, the two immense pockets with tight zips are great for those (like ME WHO HAVE BIG HANDS G s POLYESTER AND SPANDEX ALIZĂ&#x2030;E Tiempo pants | S-XXL | $129 | naturmania.ca

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Alexandra Cousteau

Water Woman By Jennifer Weatherhead

The name Cousteau is synonymous with travelling the world and exploring the depths of the ocean. As the daughter and granddaughter of two of the most famous explorers (grandfather Jacques and father Philippe), it’s no surprise that Alexandra Cousteau has a thirst for discovery. Jacques and Philippe Cousteau showcased environmental issues, making the masses aware of the world around them. Alexandra’s personal project, Blue Legacy, involves an in-depth expedition to explore how water connects the four corners of our world. Through her expertise and enthusiasm to learn, teach and

navigate the world, she brings a new perspective on why the world’s water situation is nearing a crisis point. Adventura caught up with Alexandra on the road (on the water?) during her recent expedition. Here’s what she taught us.

What is the most misunderstood aspect of our planet’s water? It’s easy to look over the vast hydrosphere that characterizes our “blue planet” and assume we have a nearly inexhaustible supply of water. The truth is, less than one percent of the planet’s water is available for human use. When you consider how interconnected our water systems are, you start to realize how fragile the balance that supports life really is and how dramatically our actions impact it. You’ve recently started Expedition: Blue Planet. Tell us how your travels have been going.

Explain the mission of Blue Legacy – what are your goals and plans? Blue Legacy focuses on “telling the story of our water planet.” Using film, blogs, social media platforms and a variety of interactive experiences, we are working to help everyday people from all walks of life around the world experience the interconnectivity of our most precious resource. Once you experience the environmental and cultural treasures that are being threatened on a daily level, you can’t help but want to do something to make a difference. Through our films and daily interaction from those who connect with us online, I want to help people experience the diversity of our planet. Why is it so important to explain to people the importance of water? We are at a critical moment in human history. Water – this precious gift that makes life possible – faces threats that are greatly magnified in both scale and speed of impact by climate change. Water is the one thing that truly connects us all, joining us in a network of interconnected cycles. Through Blue Legacy International, our annual Water Planet Dialogues with the Aspen Institute and our expeditions, we work to tell the critical stories that highlight the interconnectivity of water issues.

Since last February, we’ve criss-crossed the planet, seeking out stories that capture how interconnected water issues really are. If there’s one thing we’ve heard most, it’s “Water is life.” Without prompting, I’ve heard men, women and children across five continents and in dozens of languages express this same, simple phrase. Water means food for the table, a way to provide a living, a means of transportation to school, a source of beauty and inspiration, hope for the future, and in Cambodia where I just returned from, it even means “home” for millions. What’s been your favourite place to travel? I have this question posed to me quite a bit, and people always chuckle when I tell them that my favourite location is always the one that’s “next.” I guess that’s the nature of growing up in a family of explorers. The truth is, every corner of our world is filled with amazing beauty – I really never get tired of experiencing a new place. I have yet to have the opportunity to really explore the Amazon River or Antarctica. Both of those are pretty high on my list of places I’m looking forward to exploring soon. You have some pretty hefty shoes to fill in terms of your grandfather and father. How do you live up to such expectations? Both my father and grandfather were pretty amazing men, and growing up with the legacy they left has been a driving force in my life. I would never call it “tough” to have the opportunity to carry on our

6 _ Adventura _ FALL 2009 _

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tradition, but I will tell you that no one cuts you any slack for getting a bit seasick on a boat or occasionally getting turned around with directions when you are a Cousteau. All kidding aside, I feel lucky every single day to have the opportunity to continue in their footsteps. Your childhood must have been exciting. What is your fondest memory? As a very small child I tagged along with the crew, visiting everywhere from the Easter Islands to the Nile. My mom made sure we had a house and yard full of animals, so we were immersed in nature and caring for things. As far as my grandfather goes, my favourite memories are days when he made it seem like it was just the two of us in Paris. Here was this man, who even as a little girl I knew was important, but he’d be dashing off with me to eat ice cream or buy some little treat. Your first scuba diving adventure was with your grandfather at the age of seven. Do you remember anything about that day? I was pretty nervous, but my grandfather was his usual reassuring self. When I took my first breath, it hit me how cool it was to be breathing underwater. After I got over that first little bit of fear, I turned and headed down and never really looked back. Is there anything that you haven’t done yet that you would like to tackle? I’m in the process right now of writing my first book, This Blue Planet. It’s due out next year and will be published through Dutton Publishing (Penguin Books). Distilling down my boxes of notes from the field into 70,000 consecutive words about water issues is a fairly daunting task, but I’m very excited to see where it goes.

For more alexandracousteau.org

Field Report

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At one time the field of underwater photography was exclusive to professionals and serious amateurs. Today, using digital cameras almost anyone can produce high quality images both above and below sea level. With these pro tips from award-winning photographer Mark Edward Harris, you’ll be ready to jump right in! By Mark Edward Harris

tips for shooting underwater

1. Decide with or without Some point-and-shoot cameras can take the plunge without additional underwater casing—called ‘housing.’ I like the Olympus Stylus Tough-8000, which can go as deep as 10 m. Cameras that require housing may be more appealing to advanced amateurs who prefer the superior capabilities of non-waterproof professional models. A great in-between choice is the Canon PowerShot G10. It has a 5x optical zoom that widens to 28 mm, as well as a converter accessory that allows the lens to go even wider (which is important, see #3). In its separate waterproof case, you can dive to a depth of 40 m.

settings to the off-flash mode. Often, though, to produce dramatic results you need to balance flash exposure with ambient light. To illuminate your subject, use one or two off-camera flashes extended out to the sides on long flexible arms. There are now relatively inexpensive underwater lighting setups such as the Ikelite Autoflash AF35 Kit. For a softer light, try using a flash with a reflector shell around it. 5. Stay steady. Snap quickly. Fish and other aquatic creatures tend not to pose for the camera. Adjusting your camera to 1/250 of a second (the shutter speed option on your camera) will help freeze the action and reduce the possibility of a blurry image – a.k.a. ‘camera shake.’ If you’re using a flash, consult the owner’s manual to learn the fastest shutter speed to synchronize with your flash. Remember the deeper you go, the darker it gets, and the more you may need to increase your camera’s sensitivity (ISO). Avoid, however, setting your camera at an ISO above 800, which causes grainy-looking photos known as ‘noise’ in digital-speak.

2. Make a seal If you go the housing route, it is vital that you use the correct case for your particular model. Besides the camera manufacturer, companies such as Sea & Sea and Ikelite make fine housings, as well as lights and other underwater equipment. To ensure the perfect closure, an O-ring (a kind of elastic band) is often wound around the seam or joint, and then a silicone lubricant is applied on top.

3. Get up-close and personal Since objects in the water appear closer than they actually are, you’ll find that you will have more success when elements important to the composition are close to you. Using a wide-angle lens helps you get closer to your subject: it also allows you to cut the water volume between you and your subject. Seawater tends to act as a murky filter because of floating organisms in the water. So the closer you get, the less ‘filter’ you have to shoot through. The result is more detail and sharpness in the subject. 4. Mind the flash A direct flash (like the one that’s built into your camera) often reflects tiny particles suspended in the water making the image look as though it was taken in a blizzard. This is known as ‘backscatter.’ You can avoid this by simply adjusting your

Laurie Skreslet

6. Keep your head in the clouds Many underwater photographers find that presetting the white balance to ‘cloudy’ results in accurate colour renditions.

For more • markedwardharris.com • olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/ oima_underwatertips.asp • seaandsea.com • ikelite.com • aquatica.ca

Aconcagua tips

REACH THE SKY The “Stone Sentinel” of the Andes is the highest peak outside of Asia. Laurie Skreslet – the first Canadian to reach the summit of Everest in 1982 – has climbed the mountain 27 times, and yet he still goes back every year. Here, Skreslet shares his tips on how to reach Aconcagua’s 23,830-ft summit. What to bring “When people think just in terms of the altitude and the cold, they can get a misconception about the mountain. You have to come equipped to be comfortable in conditions ranging anywhere from 30 to 35 degrees Celsius heat on the four-day walk into base camp, to rain, cold, wet and wind, and all the way to 35 degrees below zero and 160-km/h (100-mph) winds on summit day.” “The most common mistake people make is to bring too many individual pieces of clothing that cannot be worn at the same time. When we start moving up from base camp, you want to minimize your load. The essentials are long underwear, a fleece layer and a down vest that fits under your Gore-Tex outerwear, and a down parka that fits over everything.”

How to prep “This mountain has a tendency to strip people somewhat bare, and allows them and everyone else to see what their fatal flaw or stumbling block is. Being prepared for that can help you manage it more effectively on the mountain.” “It pays to make sure that you are healthy and physically fit. Educate yourself about how the body compensates when it goes to high altitude and what the symptoms of high-altitude sickness are – headache, nausea, lack of appetite – so that they don’t cause you undue stress on the mountain.” What to know before you go “One word comes to mind and that is “respect.” You are going to a big mountain. Yes, it is non-technical by the way that we climb it – it’s more like a high-altitude trek. But what people can forget is that every year climbers die on the mountain because they do not show due respect for the weather, the altitude or their own condition. Don’t be arrogant when you go to this mountain.” “It’s a place of tremendous energy, one of the most beautiful areas on this planet – it just also happens to be the highest mountain on this side of the world.”

8 _ Adventura _ FALL 2009 _

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By Julia Pyper

For more laurieskreslet.com

agenda By Jennifer Weatherhead

SEPTEMBER Sept. 6

// Inline Skating Festival Ottawa, Ontario Organized by skaters for skaters, this half or full marathon is all about fun. The smooth, fast route offers scenic views of the Ottawa River and forest along the Rockcliffe Parkway. Ideal for all levels. inlineottawa.com

Sept. 7 to 11

// Kayak Trip Georgian Bay, Ontario Spend five days kayaking around Georgian Bay and the 30,000 islands while learning the basics of paddling and wilderness tripping with certified instructors. wildernessadventures.ca

Sept. 11

// Cedars Tour de Lance Mont-Tremblant, Quebec Join the likes of Lance Armstrong and friends in a 100-kilometre fundraising event. Then follow the gang to the first Cedars Cancer Heroes Night at the Casino de Mont-Tremblant for a celebrity-packed show. tremblant.ca

Sept. 12

// Resort Race Horseshoe Valley, Ontario Just one hour north of Toronto, you’ll find a quiet resort nestled in the woods. What better place to host the Ontario Trail

Running Series season finale? Pick from a six-, 15- or 21-kilometre course (there’s also a 1K race for kids), then fill up at the buffet and BBQ afterwards. 5peaks.com

boats from London, Ottawa and Toronto compete in this picturesque town. rotarystratford.com/dragonboat

Sept.18 to 20

Sept. 19

Explore one of our largest national parks while learning the finer points of canoe paddling and wilderness tripping in this all-inclusive adventure. wildernessadventures.ca/3daycanoe.html

The last leg in a series of six snowshoe and foot races held in Quebec is the challenging forest race. Trek your way through a 5K or 10K circuit with some treacherous conditions – we’re talking steep climbs, brook crossings, swamps and mud. In other words, fun. tremblant.ca

// C anoe Trip Algonquin Park, Ontario

Sept.18 to 20

// C rank the Shield Haliburton Forest, Ontario This 250-kilometre off-road mountain biking race over the bedrock of the Canadian Shield provides diverse terrain for experienced riders. cranktheshield.com

Sept. 19

// K ayak for a Cure Mississauga, Ontario We’ve all heard about the Run for a Cure marathon. This year, why not take part in the first annual Kayak for a Cure? Join the mission and help raise money for cancer. kayakforacure.org

Sept. 19

// D ragon Boat Festival Stratford, Ontario While most Dragon Boat Festivals happen midsummer, Stratford hosts their annual event in September. Watch

// Forest Race Mont-Tremblant, Quebec

Sept. 20

// Windsurf Race Toronto, Ontario With shorter and longer courses (up to 17 kilometres), beginners and pros are welcome to take part in this “Mammoth Marathon” windsurfing race. Hope for a windy day so you can zip along the waterfront and around the islands. torontowindsurf.com

Sept. 20 to 22

// Haliburton Rocks! Haliburton, Ontario Hike through the undisturbed, rugged countryside in Haliburton Heights, exploring the rich minerals and crystals in the area. After a day of trekking, get a hot stone massage and listen to local rock music – what could be better? yoursoutdoors.ca

Sept. 26

// Frontier Adventure Challenge Haliburton/Muskoka, Ontario Take on the course solo or in teams of three with 75 kilometres of cycling, hiking and paddling in 14 hours. Just a little extra adventure: The racecourse through the Ontario wilderness is unmarked, yet still ideal for beginners to pros. fastadventures.com

OCTOBER Oct. 2 to 4

// Surf Kayak Festival Wawa, Ontario Called “Surfing Superior Confluence,” this informal weekend event is for sea kayakers and whitewater boaters. The full package includes beach camping, meals and an evening concert. For beginner to pro paddlers. naturallysuperior.com

Oct. 10 to 12

// Bon Echo Thanksgiving Mazinaw Lake, Toronto Experience a weekend of multi-pitch climbing on a 100-metre-high granite cliff. The routes may be low-grade, but the vertical rise above the water leaves even experienced climbers wanting more. The club hut is a great place to socialize with other climbers – and it has a wood-fired sauna. climbers.org/bon-echo-and-our-cabin

DAYTRIPPER

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TORONTO

; J>; =7D7H7IA7 <EH;IJ ACTIVITY: HIKING By Maureen Littlejohn

TThe Ganaraska Forest spreads out over 10,500 acres on the Oak Ridges Moraine near Bowmanville, Ontario, a one-hour drive east of Toronto. The mixed hardwood and pine woodlands are divided into three sections, and the central area is dedicated to non-motorized activities. Marked trails offer a variety of levels for hikers; for the more adventurous, there are hundreds of kilometres of unmarked routes. Established in 1946, the forest is one of Ontarioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s earliest conservation areas and is ďŹ lled with rolling hills, springfed creeks and beaver ponds. Foxes, deer, raccoons, coyotes and wild turkeys are just a few of the forest creatures you might spy from the paths. The new Ganaraska Forest Centre, an outdoor education facility for groups, opens this fall. There are plans for a canteen, but in the meantime make sure you pack your own snacks or lunch.

Level: Beginner to advanced Season: Year-round Distance: 40 km of marked hiking trails and 300 km of unmarked trails and forest access roads. Getting there: Eastbound from Toronto on 401, exit at Hwy. 35/115 North. Drive 16 km north to Kirby; turn right (east) at Kirby onto Durham Regional Rd. 9 (Ganaraska Rd.), then go 10 km to the ďŹ rst S-bend in the road with a Ganaraska Forest Centre sign. Turn left (north) onto Cold Springs Camp Rd. and go 4 km to Forest Centre. Cost: A hiking pass is $5 per day Ĺ&#x201D; 0OF ZFBS NFNCFSTIJQ JT Ĺ&#x201D; ,JET VOEFS HFU JO GSFF Other Activities: Mountain biking and horseback riding. There is cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in winter. Tip: Buy a $5 map at the gatehouse that covers all the trails. Ask staff for route suggestions and bring a compass. For more: grca.on.ca

TORONTO

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IF?D OEKH M>;;BI 7J 7B8?ED >?BBI ACTIVITY: MOUNTAIN BIKING By Bryen Dunn

TAlbion Hills Conservation Area and Campground is located within the rolling topography of the Caledon region. Bikers can start off at the Trailhead, where there are four colour-coded circular double-track routes with distances ranging from 2.5 to 10 kilometres. There are an additional 25 kilometres of single-track trails with quirky names such as Woo Wu and Sugar Shack ShufďŹ&#x201A;e. Much of the riding is done under a protective canopy of trees, with steep inclines and declines, a few sharp turns and the occasional root or other obstruction to manoeuvre

around. Covering the entire distance over the course of a day can be done quite easily, with rest and lunch stops included. Some choose to perfect their skills on certain trails, whereas others make it a mission to cover as much ground as possible. Other on-site features include overnight camping, a camp store (that sells bike items), a natural swimming area, hot showers and a bicycle washing station. New this year is the water park and splash pad, enticing riders to dip in for a nice ďŹ nish to the day. Ride on!

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Level: Single-track trails offer a more technical and challenging ride, whereas the doubles are suitable for all riders, including families with children. Helmets are mandatory for everyone. Season: .JE .BZ UP NJE 0DUPCFS EFQFOEJOH PO XFBUIFS DPOEJUJPOT %PVCMF USBDL USBJMT are used for cross-country skiing in winter.) Getting there: From Toronto, go northwest on Hwy. 50, just 8 km north of Bolton, if USBWFMMJOH CZ DBS 0UIFSXJTF (0 5SBOTJU DBO HFU ZPV BOE ZPVS CJLF BT GBS BT #PMUPO BOE UIFO you ride in from there. Cost: Park entrance fee is $6 per person and includes a trail map and access to all trails Ĺ&#x201D; 0QVT .JLIB NPVOUBJO CJLFT BSF BWBJMBCMF GSPN UIF DBNQ TUPSF GPS B EBZ For more: trca.on.ca

montageFINAL:Layout 1 8/7/09 9:43 AM Page 1

This fall, experience comfort in the heart of nature at

Parc national du Mont-Tremblant

MONTREAL

Roll with the flow at Mont-Tremblant Activity: Mountain biking By Susan Campbell

_Just 130 kilometres north of Montreal lies “Trembling Mountain” – a world-famous ski resort and village perched on one of the highest peaks in the Laurentians. In the fall, you can revel in the colourful scenery that turns Mont-Tremblant’s slopes into fiery vistas. Bring your own wheels or rent from local shops to enjoy 40 kilometres of well-marked trails beginning at the base of the mountain, including a multi-functional trail for cycling, rollerblading and running. Scenic highlights include glistening lakes, cascading waterfalls and fast rivers winding amid the autumn leaves and wildlife. Mont-Tremblant is also a pit stop along the famous “P’tit Train du Nord” Linear Park – 200 kilometres of cycling trails built on an old Laurentian train route. Recharge from a choice of indoor and outdoor eateries of every ilk in the pedestrian village, and unwind to complimentary classical music concerts every weekend until mid-October. Level: Beginner to pro Season: Spring through fall Getting there: From Montreal, drive north on the Laurentian Autoroute (Hwy. 15) to Sainte-Agathe, where it becomes Rte. 117 North. Proceed to exit 119 (Montée Ryan) and follow signs to Mont-Tremblant. Cost: Bike rental, if needed. Regular bikes start at $13 per hour, $5 each additional hour, at Chalet des Voyageurs at the resort’s entrance. Mountain bikes begin at $20 per hour, $8 each additional hour, at Boutique Solomon at the base of the mountain. There are also discounted full-day rates at both locations. Tip: Ask the bike shop rental staff for “secret” cycling trails. Other activities: Hiking, climbing tower, whitewater rafting, canoeing and kayaking. Extra: Tremblant Grand Prix of Colours, Sept. 20, is an annual competitive event with prizes and entertainment where you hike or bike up the mountain. For more: tremblant.ca

Enjoy the lovely days of fall biking, canoeing, or hiking. Then stay over for a night’s rest with us … in a warm, cosy bed! • One night (2 adults and their children) • 2 queen-size bed • Electric or gas heating • A 2-burner campstove and a small fridge • Everything you need to make meals

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• A stove and a refrigerator

* Taxes and entry fee not included. All rates are subject to change without notice. Proud to promote vacations in Québec, Sépaq is offering 5% off most stays with accommodations. Valid until March 31, 2010.

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WEEKEND GETAWAY

LIVE (suffer) and LEARN When your dad is an expert climber, mountaineering advice is never in short supply. On a “romantic” traverse across the White Mountains of New Hampshire, our writer learns the hard way that father really knows best.

By Natasha Viau-Skreslet

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“There is no better testing ground for a new relationship than the mountains,” my father informed me. “You find out real quick what people are really like.” Now, while there are a great many things on which I gladly accept paternal advice – and mountaineering is certainly one of them: The man was, after all, the first Canadian to climb Everest – I was leaning more toward a ruggedly romantic getaway with my new boyfriend than a weekend inquisition. The plan was to traverse four Presidential peaks over a weekend in late May: Mounts Madison, Adams, Jefferson and Washington, the highest peak in the range. Even though I had read that Mount Washington gets some of the most variable and violent weather in North America and, more tellingly, The Weather Network was calling for rain, rather than heed these warnings, I rationalized. My boyfriend was fresh from four weeks of winter backcountry in the Rockies, and I had just spent Christmas climbing in the Andes. We had a solid tent, winter sleeping bags and each other. Worst-case scenario would be some damp gear and prune toes!

of my pack. Once above the tree line though, my burning cheeks were soothed by the cool winds gliding over the barren ridge. For the price of two summits, we were rewarded with panoramic views carved out by continental and alpine glaciers thousands of years old. In defiance of the approaching storm, the sun turned the sky a most vibrant hue of orange while renegade clouds hung low above the snaking valleys from which we had come. Up there we were alone in the world.

We set up camp on a col between Mounts Jefferson and Adams and soaked up what was left of the daylight. Then we waited for the rain. By 7:30 p.m., we were shouting over the heavy raindrops pelting the nylon. Oblivious to the placement of our campsite, runoff from the storm had started to forge a path straight through our tent; our Thermarests became makeshift rafts. Three hours later, resettled in a more suitable location, sleep came quickly – but it would not last.

what my father had been telling me all these years: “Never underestimate the mountains.” It took 45 minutes to take down the tent in 80-km/h winds. We couldn’t see three metres ahead, the light of our headlamps making the rain glow instead of illuminating the path. We headed down what we believed to be a shortcut to take us below the tree line, only to lose the trail in a snowfield. My boyfriend barely took five steps before the precarious crust of snow gave way and a flurry of French expletives (he’s from France) pierced the darkness. When his silhouette popped back up like one of those carnival Whack-a-Moles, I couldn’t help but laugh. Too bad I was the only one to see the humour. “It’s not worth getting lost. Let’s go back!” I yelled into the wind. But my words got carried away behind me. “We should head back on yesterday’s trail,” he said, planting a quick kiss before I could tell him that I had just said that. I thought wryly that this was probably the most romance I would get on this trip.

The 10-mile trek back felt like twice that, especially with our waterlogged packs. The ever-present wind threatened any movement to which I was not 100-percent committed. Finally, when the snow turned to hail, my father’s words played a continuous loop in my head. I hated being on the receiving end of an “I told you so.” Eventually, though, we made it back to the boyfriend’s beat-up Subaru, a sight for sore eyes. We had been lucky, and we knew it. On the drive home, we defrosted and recounted the disastrous outing with hilarious hindsight. It was a weekend that neither of us had expected. A few days later, I recounted the story to you-know-who. He congratulated me on a successful trip. “Successful?” I said. “In the mountains,” my father reminded me, “success doesn’t mean you got to the top, but that you leave the mountain with more respect than when you arrived.” Indeed, I did.

PLAN AHEAD GETTING THERE Bon Echo Provincial Park is located north of Napanee, Ontario, along Highway 41. • From Montreal – About a four-hour drive. Take the 10 East to Route 55 South toward Vermont. Enter the United States. Take Interstate-91 South to US-2. In Gorham, take NH-16/White Mountain Road. • From Toronto – It’s a 10-hour drive, so why not extend your stay with an evening at the luxurious Mount Washington Resort, or a wine-and-dine stopover in Montreal. If driving, take the Don Valley Parkway to ON-401. As you enter Quebec, this turns into Route 20 East. Take the QC-40 exit toward Montreal. From Montreal, directions are as outlined above. SEASON Year-round: Ski or snowshoe in the winter and hike in the summer. Where to sleep • There are a number of quaint B&Bs close to the park. Most are located just outside major towns and offer spectacular mountain views.

• For those who prefer to rough it, there are many roadside campgrounds with parking facilities. Passes are required when leaving your vehicle unattended and can be purchased from most local merchants and all Forest Services officers. Daily passes are $3, while a seven-day pass is $5. Once in the park, there are some established campgrounds with raised tent platforms. When camping elsewhere, select a site at least 200 feet from trails and water sources.

“Serious business – I know,” I said. “We’ll be safe. Always. Promise.”

I woke up cold and soaked. It was 3 a.m. The nylon fabric of our tent was slack across the aluminum skeleton, the tent poles having ceded to the wind. The wet material whipped mercilessly about, convulsing violently just inches above our faces. Despite the fact that it was still very much night – and we were exhausted – we agreed that our best bet was to pack up and retreat back to the car, a day’s walk away.

Our trip started in Montreal on a Friday afternoon. The next morning, after a camp breakfast of something my man insisted was porridge, we set off. The first 1,000-metre gain in elevation had been punishing, and I silently cursed the extra gear shoved in the bottom

Though we were well-prepared in terms of gear and equipment, I had thought of these extra things as “just in case” reserves that act as a safety net. But now, forced to rely on that safety net, my margin of error rapidly narrowed. Even in my half-conscious state, it dawned on me

Before our departure, my father had reminded me, “You know, Tash, people lose their lives every year in those mountains – don’t underestimate them. If you get caught up high by a storm and you aren’t properly prepared, it’s dangerous. You have to make sure you bring enough gear in case something goes wrong. It’s seri—”

Where to eat There are local restaurants in the surrounding towns. In the park, you’re on your own. So if you’re heading out on a multi-day trek, be sure to bring a water-purifying system. For hot dinners, it’s bring-your-own-stove because fires are not permitted. What to do There are over 1,930 km (1,200 mi) of well-maintained trails within the 780,000 acres of the White Mountain National Forest. Hikes vary from easymoderate wooded strolls to more challenging ascents of the Presidentials. If venturing above the tree line, check the weather forecast and be prepared to turn back at the first sign of bad weather. Be sure to bring a map. (Natasha recommends Map Adventure’s White Mountains Map Book: New Hampshire and Maine, second edition). For more • mountwashington.org • mountwashingtonresort.com • fs.fed.us/r9/forests/white_mountain/recreation

Adventura _ FALL 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 13

Mjwjoh!Mbshf Fall is the perfect season to start anew and treat yourself before a long, cold winter. Invest in at least one pampering weekend to re-energize your mind and body. Start on a Friday night and indulge in one of our ready-made itineraries. After a luxurious couple of days at a cozy B&B, a body treatment (or two), some hearty food and some sporty fun, you’ll drive home on Sunday evening a brand new you.

GANANOQUE

By Maureen Littlejohn

JOGGING AND BIKING – A 37-km paved pathway adjacent to the 1000 Islands Parkway nää xÈ£ £x xÊUÊ£äää Ã > `Ã}> > µÕi°V ® meanders along the riverside past a number of historic hamlets such as Ivy Lea and Rockport dotted with picturesque Victorian cottages. Check the website for a local map. Bring your own or rent bikes from Misty Isles Lodge fxÊ«iÀÊ ÕÀÊ UÊfÓäÊ>Ê`>ÞÊUÊÈ£Î ÎnÓ {ÓÎÓÊUÊ ÃÌÞ Ã iÃ°V>®Êin nearby Lansdowne until Oct. 12.

(SBOE (FUBXBZ The best time to visit Gananoque is in the fall, when the crowds have thinned and golden sunlight glints off the mighty St. Lawrence River. The town, a three-hour drive from Toronto or a little more than an hour from Ottawa, is considered the gateway to the Thousand Islands, a watery wonderland sprinkled with gilded-age cottages and government parks. Split between the United States and Canada, the islands were a draw for wealthy Americans in the 19th century, including George C. Boldt, owner of New York’s Waldorf Astoria Hotel and builder of the area’s famous Boldt Castle. Drink in the region’s craggy glory, courtesy of the last Ice Age, while hiking, biking or kayaking, and top off your day with a rejuvenating spa treatment. nää xÈ£ £x xÊUÊ£äää Ã > `Ã}> > µÕi°V

KAYAKING – St. Lawrence Islands National Park is part of the Frontenac Arch Biosphere Reserve nää {ÎÇ ÓÓÎÎÊ UÊ «V°}V°V>®, where you’ll ﬁnd the Thousand Islands Water Trail } Ê Ì Ê «>`` i£äää°V Ê v ÀÊ À ÕÌiÊ >«Ã®. If you don’t have your own kayak, you can rent one from 1000 Islands Kayaking fÎäÊ > vÊ`>ÞÊUÊÈ£Î ÎÓ ÈÓÈxÊUÊ£äää V°V ® until Oct. 17.

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The historic Gananoque Inn & Spa À ÃÊvÀ Êf£{xÊUÊnää {Èx Î£ä£ÊUÊ }> > µÕi °V ® is tucked along the banks of the St. Lawrence River and occupies the site of the original Gananoque Carriage Works. Opened as an inn in 1896, the property has 53 guest rooms and suites and is ﬂanked by lush gardens and a private dock. Be sure to book a room with a ﬁreplace and Jacuzzi tub if you really want to unwind after a day of heavy paddling or cycling. Enhance your relaxation at the inn’s spa with the Aroma Mineral Body Golden treatment f£ÓxÊ v ÀÊ ÈäÊ °®. Your skin will have a 24-karat glow after being exfoliated, hydrated, moisturized and sprinkled with gold dust.

HORSEBACK RIDING – Hook up with an equine pal at From Another Time Trail Riding fÎxÊ «iÀÊ ÕÀÊ UÊ È£Î Èx ÎÇÇ£Ê UÊ vÀ > Ì iÀÌ i°V>®, then walk, jog or canter along beautiful trails in the unique Canadian Shield setting along the St. Lawrence River, a few miles north of the international Ivy Lea Bridge.

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Trinity House Inn > ÃÊvÀ ÊfÓÓÊUÊnää ÓÈx {nÇ£ÊUÊÌÀ ÌÞ °V ® has won accolades from The Globe and Mail and Ottawa Citizen, and offers a delicious dinner after an active day. The menu includes dishes such as rack of lamb, smoked trout, wild boar, artisan cheese plates and a three-course table d’hôte featuring local products. Reservations recommended.

1MBZ

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MIDLAND By Mark Cardwell

0OUBSJPµT $SBEMF Midland overlooks one of the deepest freshwater bays in the world and is the main entry point to Georgian Bay’s famous 30,000 islands. A two-hour drive north of downtown Toronto, the town of 15,000 boasts the province’s best lineup of Native, French and English historical sites and attractions – not that it’s a place that lives in the past. The hub is also renowned as a four-season playground for outdoor fun and activities. Çäx xÓÈ {ÓÇxÊ UÊ Ì Ü ° ` > `° °V>

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The Victorian Inn Bed & Breakfast À ÃÊ vÀ Ê f££äÊ UÊ ÈÇäÊ Õ}i Ê Ûi ÕiÊ UÊ nÇÇ {xä ÇÈÈäÊ UÊ Û VÌ À > ° °V>® is a recently renovated Victorian home located on a steep hill on one of Midland’s main streets. It offers a screened veranda with a partial view of the bay, a big ﬁreplace in the living room, great cooked breakfasts served in a grandiose dining room and four guest rooms, each luxuriously appointed according to a local theme, such as the Cottage and Nautical rooms.

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If you only eat one lunch in Midland, make it Dino’s Fresh Food Deli Ìi ÃÊ vÀ Ê fnÊ UÊ Î£ Ê }Ê -Ì°Ê UÊ Çäx xÓÈ Ó{Î£®. Owned and operated by Dino Anest, a native Midlander who transformed his Greek-immigrant father Nick’s pool hall into the town’s busiest restaurant, it is packed daily with locals who enjoy generous servings of homemade pasta, salads and sandwiches – the turkey, in particular, is awesome. For supper, try two other locally owned restaurants: The Arch > ÃÊvÀ Êf£xÊUÊÇäx xÓÈ ÇÎ£Î® for the best steak in town, and the Riv Bistro > ÃÊvÀ Êf£xÊUÊÇäx xÓÈ {ÎÓÊUÊ À ÛL ÃÌÀ ° ÕÀ >°V ® for Mediterranean-style cuisine.

1MBZ HIKING – The Midland Rotary Trail (trailsofgeorgianbay.com/ midland-rotary.html) is an asphalted, eight-km-long, two-metre-wide trail used by hikers, bikers and runners that hugs the coastline of Midland Bay and the nearby Wye River. To the east, the trail ends at three set-in-nature tourist sites for which Midland is best known: Ste. Marie Among the Hurons, a reconstructed French village from the early 17th century; the Martyr’s Shrine, Ontario’s only Catholic shrine; and the Wye Marsh, where visitors can see penned birds of prey and up to 38 species of birds – from chickadees to trumpeter swans – plus turtles, frogs and fish along a spectacular boardwalk that leads you into the heart of a thriving 2,400-acre marsh. BIKING – The Tay Trail (ontariotrails.on.ca) begins where the Rotary Trail ends. A fairly flat, paved path built along a former railway bed, it passes through farmers’ fields and forests and along some truly stunning stretches of Georgian Bay shoreline as it winds its way to the village of Waubaushene.

RUNNING – Little Lake Park is an 85-acre gem in the heart of town that is crisscrossed with 10 km of dirt running and hiking paths that continue along both the sandy shoreline and deciduous forests. Mostly ﬂat, the trails pass through and around many area attractions, including ﬂower gardens, a skateboard park, the local YMCA, curling club, beach volleyball court, Huron-Ouendat Village and the Midland Lawn Bowling Club. Makes both a scenic and informative running route through the town.

loon calls break the otherwise silent surroundings. Nearby, the Indulgence Spa nää {È£ äÓÎÈÊ UÊ Ì>L ÀiÃ ÀÌ°V ® at Taboo Resort offers a bevy of treatments, including hot stone massages, reﬂexology, manicures, pedicures, facials and body wraps. The Retreat for TwoÊ fÈäÊ v ÀÊ ÎäÊ °® package offers couples simultaneous aromatherapy massages in a private room with a hot tub, ﬁreplace and view.

MUSKOKA By Austin Macdonald

-BLFTJEF -FJTVSF Many of the Group of Seven’s landscape paintings feature Muskoka’s gnarled cedars, craggy rocks, jagged shorelines, dense forests, white-capped lakes and wind-whipped clouds. Little did the early-20th-century painters know, this quintessential Canadiana that they popularized would soon become cottage country for Toronto’s leisure-seeking masses. Today, Muskoka’s 1,600 lakes attract two million visitors a year, primarily on weekends between Victoria Day and Thanksgiving. On the calmest days, the three largest lakes – Muskoka, Rosseau and Joseph – mirror the fragile existence between opposing weekend lifestyles: the establishment families with rustic, century-old, three-season cottages vs. the nouveau riche with monster homes, hot tubs and motorboats. Survivalists, take heart: Despite the occasional yahoo, solitude and tranquility still abound. ` ÃV ÛiÀ ÕÃ >°V>ÊUÊ£ nää ÓÈÇ Çää®

3 3 The Cedarwood ResortÊ V ÌÌ>}iÃÊ vÀ Ê fÓÓxÊ UÊ nÈÈ ÓxÓ äÓÓÎÊ UÊ cedarwoodresort.ca) on Lake Muskoka’s Boyd Bay has ﬁve individual cottages that sleep two to eight. Nestled among the trees, they inspire feelings of rugged independence and communing with nature. Yet the pine-panelled interiors are cozy with ﬁreplaces, Mennonite furniture and fully equipped kitchens. The sloping grounds funnel toward the resort’s spacious waterfront deck littered with Muskoka chairs. A small, sandy beach serves as a launch for canoes, kayaks and paddleboats provided by the resort. At dawn and dusk,

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In Muskoka, stand-alone restaurateurs rarely survive the desolate winters. However, the owners of the Taboo Resort, a four-season Muskokan stalwart, have dreamed up a newfangled, theatrical dining experience. The Elements Culinary Theatre Ì>ÃÌ }Ê i ÕÊf xÊUÊnää {È£ äÓÎÈÊUÊÌ>L ÀiÃ ÀÌ°V ® is an 18-seat rectangular bar where diners face an open kitchen. Two chefs prepare a unique six-course, fusion tasting menu that changes nightly.

MULTI-DAY TRIPS ÌÀ «ÃÊ`i«>ÀÌÊ Ê Õ}ÕÃÌÊ vÀ Ê-i«ÌÊ iÃ]Ê+ÕiLiV

Magpie River Adventure - 8 Days 7 ÌiÜ>ÌiÀÊ,>vÌ }ÊÊUÊÊ >Þ> }ÊÊUÊÊ ÞÊ Ã }ÊÊUÊÊ*À ÃÌ iÊ7 `iÀ iÃÃ

Raft the Romaine - 8 Days

1MBZ

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BIKING – Muskoka has great cycling, whether touring on the roads or mountain-biking through the bush. Rentals (and group rides) are available from Ecclestone Cycle Company fÎäÊ v ÀÊ vÕ Ê `>ÞÊ UÊ Çäx È{x ££ÈÈÊ UÊ ecclestonecycle.com) in Bracebridge. Advanced mountain bikers may want to head for the Porcupine Ridge trail. Buckwallow Cycling Centre and the Resources Management Centre are two other popular networks of trails offering varying levels of difﬁculty.

preview the adventure online at

www.borealriver.com

HIKING – Muskoka’s Municipal Recreational Trails (muskokatrails.com UÊnää ÓÈÇ Çää® is a comprehensive online resource of downloadable maps for hiking the region’s many trails. It includes points of interest such as local farms with different crops, allowing foodies to foot straight to the source. CANOEING AND KAYAKING – Soloists can quest for a Pierre Elliott Trudeau moment in a rental canoe (fringed suede jacket optional). Or, couples can test their Canadianness taking the Pierre Burton “challenge.” Swift V> iÃÊV ÃÌÊfÎnÊ «iÀÊ`>Þ]Ê >Þ> ÃÊfÎÓÊ«iÀÊ`>ÞÊUÊÇäx ÈnÇ ÎÇ£äÊUÊÃÜ vÌV> i°V ® is a local canoe and kayak builder that has a rental ﬂeet.

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Globetrotter

Lights, camera and

ACTION A Canadian travel writer shares her experiences of living on the edge. Chosen as one of five journalists to film a reality-show pilot featuring Chilean Patagonia, she discovers that life isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always as slick as it seems on screen.

ÂŠ David Mathies

By Chantal Martineau

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www.adventuramag.ca

I’ve been freelancing now for eight years. For this reality program on the Travel Channel, I set out with four other writers, each with their own specialty: luxury and business travel (Charles Runnette), adventure travel (Andrew Evans), nightlife and art tours (Jimmy Im) and video blogging or “vlogging” (Shira Lazar). I (Chantal) was the culinary travel expert. Together, we touched down at the end of the world (or at least that’s what all the postcards read: “Punta Arenas, the southernmost town on earth”) with two cameramen, two sound guys and two producers in tow. Not how most people do Patagonia, granted, but we had a show to shoot. When most people think of Patagonia, Argentina comes to mind, despite the fact that the region also straddles Chile, the long, narrow leg of a country on the west coast. The word association has been great for the Argentine tourism bureau, but a loss for Chile, if not a cause of great confusion in the rest of the world. Many visitors are surprised to discover that, no, Patagonia doesn’t end at the invisible border that separates the two nations; but they are also quick to discover that the landscape is very much the same: condors circling overhead, llamas and rheas (ostrich-like birds) picking through the grasslands, vast expanses, black waters, bright blue icebergs, the tail end of the Andes piercing the horizon and that eerie grey-pink light one only finds at the far extremes of the planet. It’s the greatest of the great outdoors.

creatures. The 120,000 or so penguins that inhabit the island are called jackass penguins for the braying noise they make. We – the crew and cast of writers – piled into a fisherman’s barge near the Punta Arenas airport for what turned out to be a stomach-churning journey over black waters rough enough to rattle even the staunchest seafarer. For a group of 12 or so lugging 20-kilo cameras, it was no sunset cruise. Now, this being our first time (the writers) experiencing the magic of television, we didn’t know exactly what we’d signed on for when we agreed to do Confessions. Apparently, catching five travel writers on camera in a tiny boat looking green makes for great television. Luckily, the batteries died before anyone lost their lunch. (In fact, the batteries kept dying throughout the trip, which we attributed to our proximity to the South Pole.) The bumpy ride, however, was well worth it to walk among this strange, selfsufficient community of flightless birds who, despite being visited regularly by people, remain wild and standoffish. “I’m going to hug a penguin,” promised Andrew. He didn’t.

hen I tell people I’m a travel writer, the reaction is usually something like this: “Wow, I wish I could do that.” That was the idea behind the show Confessions of a Travel Writer – a behind-the-scenes look at what the job of travel writing involves, how people (like me) go about doing it, and why it’s not as easy as it sounds.

Trekking to Torres del Paine

baked flatbread filled with chunks of roasted beef, chicken or lamb, and slices of bright green avocado, tomato and lettuce. Fortified, we piled back into our vans and carried on toward the park.

After getting some sleep in Punta Arenas, we set out for the untamed wilderness of Torres del Paine. As the resident foodie, I was delighted to stop along the way for chacarero, the famed Chilean sandwich. These hearty hand-held meals consist of freshly

The drive was bleak, in a beautiful sort of way. Rheas and llamas are the only real distraction from the grey road and the grey light. At one point, we pulled over to watch a couple of gauchos (the cowboys of South America, a wilder West than any other you’ll find) on horseback and their dogs round up a herd of sheep. The canines looked like they were playing their favourite game as they raced around a flock of some thousand-odd sheep. The men, done up in traditional garb, complete with the signature black beret and neckerchief, barely took notice of us as we snapped photos and the cameramen took aim with their lenses, as though professional TV crews pouring out of nondescript white vans to document them was nothing they hadn’t seen before. Beyond the sea of woolly, bleating beasts, the great towers of Paine loomed majestically overhead. On a clear day, you can see all the way to their snow-capped peaks.

Penguin-watching on Isla Magdalena

Before heading to Torres del Paine, the breathtaking national park that is, especially for adventurists, the heart of the region, we took a detour to see the penguins. Isla Magdalena, a strange windswept island situated in the choppy waters of the Strait of Magellan, looks like the face of the moon, with its sandy, rocky surface and population of foot-high alien-like Adventura _ FALL 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 17

Once you enter the park, it’s like seeing the sunrise for the first time. The sky is so blue, the lake waters so glassy, the towers themselves so black against the white of the snow that covers them. We weaved along the narrow main road, stopping every few kilometres to gawk at the stunning natural beauty. One of the best views is from the tiny cliff that overlooks the continued on page 18

continued from page 17

Explora Hotel, which sits on a patch of land in the blue-green waters of Lake Pehoe. Charles, who had been to Paine before, was just as awestruck as the rest of us. “Amazing,” he kept saying. The cameramen wondered when they would run out of tape.

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18 _ Adventura _ FALL 2009 _

Kayaking on Grey Lake We settled into our own accommodations a few kilometres away at Patagonia Camp, a colony of luxury yurts built right into the rock facing Lake Toro. In the morning, we prepared for a kayaking excursion around Grey Lake to see the magnificent icebergs that spring up out of the stark waters like meticulously carved ice sculptures. Clingy wetsuit aside, this made for more great TV, as it exposed our naturally competitive natures. Who was the most adept at paddling? Who would tire first against the current? For my part, I’ll just say that I’m stronger than my 5’4" and slight frame would have you believe. The ice-blue frozen masses were like sleeping beasts, and our guide warned us not to move too close lest we “wake” them. The most imposing one was prone to avalanches, so we kept our kayaks a safe distance away. But some of

www.adventuramag.ca

PLAN AHEAD

has a handful of rooms to host guests. Witness life on the ranch, including sheep shearing, herding and horse breaking performed by real-life gauchos. A greenhouse grows the vegetables the kitchen uses to prepare daily meals, making the food about as fresh as it gets.

GETTING THERE Air Canada has direct flights from Toronto to Santiago. From Santiago, you can connect to a LAN flight to Punta Arenas. From there, several bus operators offer rides to Puerto Natales, just outside Torres del Paine. But the best way is to rent a car from the airport in Punta Arenas, as you will need it to get around the park. SEASON Year-round: Ski or snowshoe in the winter and hike in the summer.

Where to eat Because at Torres del Paine National Park you’re basically in the middle of nowhere and there are no restaurants around, the only eating options are at hotels. See Chantal’s specific food suggestions above at each of the places she stayed. In nearby Puerto Natales, however, there are a handful of restaurants serving up Patagonian cuisine, which is very lamb-centric.

Where to stay •P uerto Natales, 562-387-1500, remota.cl Just outside the Torres del Paine National Park is the ideal base from which to plan trekking excursions or horseback riding tours with a bona fide gaucho. Architect German del Sol created a sleek, airy space that manages to feel organic and fiercely modern at once. The green roof not only helps reduce the hotel’s energy costs, but also offers magnificent views of the park. The restaurant features local ingredients and traditional recipes with a modern twist, and the bar makes a mean Pisco Sour.

Try:

•P atagonia Camp Torres del Paine National Park, 562-334-9255, patagoniacamp.com Within the park itself, there are high-end yurts built right into the cliff overlooking Lake Toro. Built for minimal impact to the environment, the camp houses two waste-treatment plants that release 100-percent pure water back into the lake. Staying there doesn’t quite qualify as roughing it, what with the private bath and central heating, but you still get to feel like an outdoorsman (or woman) waking up with the birds and the sun pouring in through the sunroof. Meals are included, with an option to dine at the quincho for slow-roasted Magellan lamb.

What to do • Tours of varying levels are generally arranged by the hotels. You can also try tour operator Comapa, which offers guided excursions to Isla Magdalena and Torres del Paine. comapa.com

•E stancia Cerro Guido Torres del Paine National Park, 562-196-4807, cerroguido.cl A half-hour or so drive from the entrance of the park, this working estancia

•A sador Patagonico 158 Arturo Prat A rustic, family-friendly place that serves up slow-roasted lamb and fresh salads. They’re proud to tell you nothing is fried there. •C ostaustralis 262 Pedro Montt An upscale hotel restaurant specializing in seafood and international fare.

• Looking for a backcountry experience? Check out Adventures Abroad and enter in Tour Code XPT. Their 16-day excursion is rated a Level Four (the most advanced) in terms of difficulty. adventuresabroad.travel For more •p rochile.cl This site is in Spanish, but scroll down to “en el Mundo” and click on Toronto or Montreal for Canadian contact info. • patagonias.net • patagoniawebcam.com (live webcam)

the icebergs were safe to approach, and we did so quietly. My kayak partner Andrew and I manoeuvred our two-man vessel to line up near one enormous, artfully shaped hunk of ice, and mimicked our guide, who broke off a tiny piece of the thing and popped it in his mouth. Yes, I too sucked Patagonian iceberg – and it was delicious, like a crisp, clean mineral popsicle.

Climbing Paine Grande

My fingers slipped; I fell away from the rock. Matias held fast, and I hung there, swinging in the breeze, increasingly aware of two large birds peering down at me from their nearby post. I called down to Matias that my hands were too sweaty and my muscles too tired. I had made it halfway up (further than any of the men, I might add), but I didn’t think I could go on. Matias was having none of it, ordered me to powder my fingers in the baggie hanging from my harness and plow on. I did reach the top, eventually. And Camera II was there waiting to catch my last grunting efforts. I felt triumphant, but suspected that had I somehow lost my footing, Tim would not have dropped his lens to save me. Good TV is good TV, after all.

The bad // The boat ride from Punta Arenas to Isla Magdalena, a.k.a. Penguin Island. The 45-minute ride can take up to three hours in rough water that churns you like a spin cycle.

The good // The view of the towers from the cliff overlooking Lake Pehoe off the main road through the park.

The bizarre // The penguins who looked at us as if to say, “What on earth are you doing here?”

This fall, experience Parc National d’Oka Photos: Gilles Archambault, Mathieu Dupuis, Pierre Lalonde, Sépaq

From Grey Lake, the towers of Paine appeared more imposing than ever. I was amazed to learn that serious climbers take to the great towers themselves, aiming for the summit of the highest peak: Paine Grande at 3,050 metres. Being that I’m a beginner and had not signed up to die on camera, I opted for a less daunting target. We relocated to a hotel just outside the park, the Remota, and from there a climbing guide took us out for a date with a rock face. Matias, a veteran climber and outdoorsman of many skills, was adamant about seeing each of us reach the top of the 30-metre inverted cliff. But first, a camera had to be hoisted up there – along with a cameraman. Tim, a.k.a. Camera II, made quick work of scaling the rock. Once my turn came around, a pair of condors had started to circle overhead, as if to foreshadow my demise. “There’s no way this is a beginner climb,” I said. Andrew agreed and, despite being the “adventure” guy, opted out of the climb. Who’s the coward now?

// The Good // The Bad // The Bizarre

Adventura _ FALL 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca ADVENTURE 4,75X3,625.indd 1 _ 19

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FEATURE

Train like a pro

Ever wonder how the experts get expert results? Adventura talked to five of Canada’s top athletes about their professional routines and winning ways. By Katie Bailey, Austin Macdonald and Ilona Kauremszky

Devon Kershaw

Andrew Byrnes

Birthday: Dec. 20, 1982

Birthday: May 22, 1983

Hometown: Sudbury, Ontario

Hometown: Toronto, Ontario

Sport: Cross-country skiing

Sport: Rowing

Stats: Devon participated in the 2006 Winter Games, representing Canada in the 4 x 10-km relay, classic ski relay, 15-km classic and skate sprint. He also pre-qualified to compete in the 2010 Olympics.

Stats: A regular medallist at the World Rowing Championships, Andrew took home Canadian gold in the Men’s Eight at the 2008 Olympics in Beijing.

Fave outdoor spot to train: “The first one that comes to mind is Mount Assiniboine, a provincial park in B.C. There’s a lodge that one of my teammates’ family has run for the last 20 years. The majesty of Mount Assiniboine is unparalleled. You can wake up just bagged after a couple days of four-hour skis and look up, and if it’s sunny and there’s some snow glinting off the summit, it’s like, Oh yeah, I don’t mind. I’ll get up and go skiing again.”

Fave outdoor spot to train: “I put in a lot of miles at Elk Lake in Victoria, B.C., my home base. I’m there at least twice a day, six days a week. There have been battles fought on that lake stroke by stroke. Some of them I have won; some I have lost. I think all of them have made me stronger as an athlete. My teammates and I have put a lot of blood and sweat into that lake, and there is no doubt that it’s that training that made us Olympic champions. The most impressive place we train is at our European training centre outside Milan, Italy. The lake is almost always calm, the weather is warm and the scenery is beautiful.”

Pro advice: “I think a common mistake in most endurance sports – and that includes cross-country skiing – is not allowing enough time for recovery. The hard work is the easy part. Going out there and putting in a lot of kilometres or hours can be tough, but there are a lot of people in the world that can do that well, professional and recreational athletes alike. The biggest difference between a high-level athlete and an aspiring athlete is hitting the wall and not being able to break through – they are not so much over-trained as under-recovered. For example, if you’re going out for a four-hour ski, make sure that you’re keeping your pace in check. There’s no need to go out and drive yourself into the ground. If you want to perform at a high level, you can’t keep taking and never putting anything back in.” Must-have gear: “My skis are Fischer RCS Carbonlite – they're the fastest skis in the world. I also use Salomon boots and Swix poles. For my base layer, I like Patagonia's Capilene Baselayer #1, a true outdoor classic. On my head, Sauce Headwear keeps me warm and dry – the company also supports Canadian Olympic athletes.” Devon in three words: “High-energy. Determined. Terrible multi-tasker.” For more: devonkershaw.com

Pro advice: “As a ‘pro’ athlete, everybody around me is training hard. A catchphrase from our team has been, ‘To achieve what others don’t, you have to do what others won’t.’ If you want to be at the top, you are going to have to train harder than everyone else. We train three times per day, six days a week. That kind of volume is what you need to be a top competitor in a sport like rowing. And it’s not just about how many hours you spend; it’s about how hard you can push yourself during those hours.” Must-have gear: “There are two things I can’t live without. For winter, it’s a tight-fitted fleece and Lycra vest. It keeps the torso warm in the cold wind, rain and snow, but lets me move my arms without being bulky. Year-round, it’s my Nike Dry Fit socks. You wear them, wring them out in the sink and they are basically dry again and ready to go. Great for training while travelling.” Andrew in three words: “Never. Ever. Stops.”

PRO PLAYLIST Download these ditties on you iPod.

John listens to: “X Gon’ Give It to Ya” by DMX “Triumph” by Wu-Tang Clan “Juicy” by Notorious B.I.G. Catharine listens to: “The Fear” by Lily Allen “Not Fair” by Lily Allen “Smile” by Lily Allen

Devon listens to: “You and I” by Wilco “Something I Can Feel” by David Myles “Hip Hop Saved My Life” by Lupe Fiasco Kathy listens to: “Heartless” by Kanye West “Satisfaction” by Benny Benassi and the Biz “Chêne et roseau” by Les Cowboys Fringants

20 _ Adventura _ FALL 2009 _

www.adventuramag.ca

For more: rowingcanada.org Or follow Andrew’s tweets at twitter.com/andrewbyrnes

Andrew listens to: “Thrash Unreal” by Against Me! “Paper Planes” by M.I.A. “Day ’n’ Night” by Kid Cudi

Kathy Tremblay

John Hastings

Birthday: June 16, 1982

Birthday: Sept. 2, 1983

Hometown: Sainte-Foy, Quebec

Hometown: Aurora, Ontario

Sport: Triathlon

Sport: Whitewater and slalom kayak

Stats: Kathy’s time at the 2008 Beijing Olympics was 2 hr., 5 min., 23 sec. This year she landed a silver medal at the World Cup in Japan and hopes to stand on the Olympic podium at London 2012.

Stats: In 2008, John won first place at the Canadian National Championships in Jonquière, Quebec. Says John about the London 2012 Olympics, “I will go; I will win.” Fave outdoor spot to train: “I love being on the water, specifically at our training centre, the Pumphouse at the Fleet Street pumping station in downtown Ottawa. It’s an artificially enhanced, Class-2 whitewater course. The sunken obstacles, concrete pillars, rocks and different features in the water, such as waves, holes, currents and eddies, shape the course and give it its characteristics.”

Fave outdoor spot to train: “I get the full package at Gatineau Park – totally the best. It’s where I grew up. Meech Lake is 10 minutes from my parents’ house. Everything is so close together. You can swim in the lake and on Sundays the roads are closed to cars until noon, which is great for biking. You can also run on the trails, which I love – it makes the time go faster. For open-water swimming in the lake, you can go beach to beach, which is four kilometres. Or, off the second beach, there’s a little island, so you can swim laps around the island, which is about one kilometre.”

Pro advice: “Due to injury, I had to learn to be patient. After my first podium in 2006, I waited another two years until my next one. You cannot rush time. If you want to improve, you have to be consistent. Nothing’s going to happen overnight. In the end it’s all about self-accomplishment. Love what you do and do it for yourself, not for somebody else – like losing weight for somebody else or running faster for your coach. You have to strive to accomplish these goals for yourself. Must-have gear: I always have my Oakley Flak Jacket sunglasses on my head, except for the swim. My sunglasses are where I keep my music. They have an MP3 player. I like that there are no wires for when I run – it’s easier to carry. They’re small and really light. I also like that they’re fashionable. Kathy in three words: Passionate. Stubborn. Hardworking.

“My dad says, ‘Winners never quit and quitters never win.’ On off days – when you’re going too wide, or if you’re missing or touching gates and not being technically precise – you just have to paddle through it and keep chipping away.” “I do a lot of strength training in the gym, three to four times a week, building my anaerobic and aerobic capacity. My race lasts about 100 seconds, so I go as hard as I can. If I don’t cross the finish line absolutely exhausted, then I haven’t gone hard enough.” Must-have gear: “My Apple iPod Shuffle is key to my training. I enjoy listening to music and it’s very light and easy to use. I’m a big fan of hip hop, dance and house music, especially for working out.” John in three words: Bold. Risk-taker. Dedicated.

For more: kathytremblay.ca

For more: supportjohn.ca

Catharine Pendrel Birthday: Sept. 30, 1980 Hometown: Fredericton, New Brunswick Sport: Cross-country mountain biking Stats: Catharine earned a gold medal at the 2007 Pan Am Games and at her first Olympic Games in 2008, she placed fourth. She is currently Canada’s medal hopeful for the 2012 summer Olympics.

Fave outdoor spot to train: “No place like home for training. Right now it’s Revelstoke, B.C., which I love because of the nature of the trails. It’s an interior rainforest with just a single track and it’s a nice wooded area with lots of roots and trees. You cannot help smiling. I like to do three- to four-hour mountainbike rides, working on my endurance and technical skills. My husband is also a rider, so we have a lot of fun riding together. Pro advice: “Karen DeWolf, a female rider I looked up to when I was progressing in the sport, said, ‘Trust your bike and see it as your friend.’ You have to trust

because it could be a scary descent. And if you ghostride down the hill, it will be upright. Don’t interfere with what the bike wants to do. Don’t over-analyze. It’s also good to have an objective coach. My coach forces me to work on my weaknesses. Must-have gear: I love my Oakleys. And I can’t live without my Fox Suspension Fork. It’s reliable and performs better than the others. For bike computers, Vetta has one with a heart rate monitor built in. They’re making them wireless now and it gives a clean cadence. My husband also gave me a Garmin GPS system. We used it on a cycling holiday in Italy. Now if I ever want to retrace my holiday, let’s say in 10 years, I can refer to all my old routes it saved for me and we could recreate it. And let’s not forget Luna Sport. I like their pink grapefruit electrolyte drink, which is not overly sugary, and the berry pomegranate cookie bar. Catharine in three words: Confident. Focused. Persistent. For more: cpendrel.blogspot.com

Adventura _ FALL 2009 _ www.adventuramag.ca _ 21

Pro advice: “It’s a technically demanding sport. If you go out there and try to conquer the world in a year, it’s not going to happen. You have to build and develop the right skills. It’s like going from first gear to fifth gear. You have to go through the process. You have to learn the ropes, learn how it’s done and then proceed from there. Kayakers should give themselves time and patience.”

GEAR

AHEAD OF THE PACK

Outdoor enthusiasts have an arsenal of gear, but the perennial must-have thing that stands out – and hangs on – is the backpack. Whether it’s rock climbing with a full range of equipment, a campﬁre night under the stars or hitting the trails with picnic in tow, there’s a knapsack waiting for you. By Jean-Sébastien Massicotte BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK Woman’s Way The JetStream DTS, Gregory’s take on trampoline-inspired suspension systems, is one of the brand’s claims to fame, but new styles introduced in recent seasons go the extra mile. Of the bunch, the ultra-versatile Jade 35 is stellar – especially because it was conceived with a woman in mind. The curve of the straps and the design of the harness and waist belt have all been reconceived to ﬁt a female morphology. The relatively lightweight pack is made from ripstop nylon (that is, a super-strong weave), giving it the robustness required for a long and, most importantly, active life. The z35, Jade’s masculine counterpart, is equally comfortable and multipurpose. GREGORY Jade 35 and z35 | $160 | gregorypacks.com

ULTRA-LIGHT Fancy Featherweight With an aluminum frame and tensioned mesh-back panel, this pack is surprisingly lightweight. And while the Exos 46 weighs little over one kilo, it can carry loads that are up to 15 times heavier without compromising comfort. What’s the secret? The mesh back allows air to circulate without compromising volume. Several pockets and compression straps keep gear organized, making it a perfect pick for a full day or short excursion on the trails. Also available in 34- and 58-litre formats – ideal for longer adventures. OSPREY Exos 46 | $220 | ospreypacks.com

HIKING His and Hers As they are known to do, the designers at Marmot listened to their on-the-field experts’ feedback when designing the Diva (for women) and Eiger (for men) series. Super-efficient without extraneous frills, these well-balanced packs fit right into the tradition of all-purpose alpine packs. Simple and light, but featuring several handy details – like gear attachment points on the waist belt – these packs are in their element in just about any environment. MARMOT Diva/Eiger 35: $135 | Diva 45/Eiger 48: $170 marmot.com

ROCK CLIMBING Summit Smarts A combination of sturdiness and lightness (thanks to burly nylon and panels made from car airbag fabric), this pack is for those who aren’t afraid of heights. Designed to lug climbing gear – cams, quickdraws, clothing, accessories – up a rock face, it has an exterior pocket to accommodate a 60-m by 10.5-m rope and three-point haul loops. The 36-litre pack also sets itself apart with an inversed ﬂap opening that gives access to the contents while keeping the back panel and suspension (both made from breathable foam) off the ground. THE NORTH FACE Fulcrum 35 | $140 | thenorthface.com

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HIKING Weatherproof Fusion Arc’teryx was one of the ﬁrst brands to pioneer these two concepts: the rolltop opening (for maximum convenience) and seam-sealed construction (to ensure waterprooﬁng). The Arrakis, a tough pack with both these features, is ideal for any mountain sport in any weather condition. And don’t think being waterproof is its sole selling point: This handy sack is equipped with an advanced suspension system, complete with a pivoting waist belt for mobility and comfort in the heat of the action. ARC’TERYX Arrakis 40: $400 | Arrakis 50: $450 | arcteryx.com

MULTIPURPOSE All-season All-star No matter the season or situation, the Sphynx performs brilliantly. While ventilation and suspension are not its strongest points, this simple, reliable pack is designed to withstand intense wear and tear. Climbing enthusiast? The Sphynx, with its tulip shape, compression strap under the top lid (ideal for hauling rope) and multiple anchoring spots for tools, makes a perfect climbing companion. Plus, the straps, back and waistband are padded with high-density thermoformed foam for maximum comfort. Choose your size: 32 or 42 litres. BLACK DIAMOND Sphynx 32: $120 | Sphynx 42: $125 | bdel.com

HIKING Organized Simplicity Even though at 1.5 kilos it barely tips the scale, the Koa 35 can take on the heaviest of loads without problem. The roll-top design ensures quick access and protection from the elements. It also features a kangaroo pocket to augment the 35-litre pack’s capacity. The upper back is made from tensioned mesh for dryness and coolness in warmer climates – or during a strenuous workout! Finally, a vertical zipper running up the pack’s right side makes its contents – even what’s at the very bottom – easy to reach. Also available in 55 litres. MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR Koa 35: $185 | Koa 55: $200 | mountainhardwear.com

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GEAR

COOL RUNNINGS By Alexander Joo

Staying in shape during the colder months doesn’t have to mean staying indoors. Today’s high-tech sportswear ensures that cold weather and wind no longer put a damper on your alfresco routine. This checklist will keep you warm and dry when the temperature drops and your intensity heats up – minus any excess bulk or extra weight to slow you down.

Upper body Base layer The double-sided fabric wicks away moisture and traps and recycles your body heat, so stopping to tie your shoe won’t result in you freezing into that position. Odor Control technology prevents debilitating body odour (debilitating in particular for single men), and the trademarked Compression Fit makes you guys look like a Watchman. For gals, check out the similar but sleeker model that comes with a hoodie. Under Armour ColdGear | Blitz Mock shirt for him (shown), $70 | Hood for her, $75 | underarmour.com

Outer layer The ultimate jacket designed to protect you from the harsh Canadian winter features PrimaLoft – an alternative to traditional goose down insulation – that’s still effective when doused in snow, sleet or sweat. The breathable, stretchy sleeves help to maintain your cadence, unlike the bulky jackets of yore that made you run like RoboCop. The North Face Animagi Hybrid jacket | for men or women, $180 | northface.com

Mid layer This cozy zip top acts as a mid or outer layer, staving off wind chill and keeping you warm. The merino wool layer next to your skin dries quickly and maintains a consistent temperature to be as adaptable and dexterous as you are. Front hand warmer pockets and reflective branding and graphics are highly advantageous to your hands staying warm and you not getting hit by a truck. Icebreaker GT 280 Rapid Zip-Thru shirt | for women (shown) or men, $190 | icebreaker.com

Lower body Outer layer Outfitted with Gore-Tex Paclite Shell, these extremely breathable, lightweight and wind- and waterproof pants are ideal for long-haul runs where the temperature fluctuates like the economy. (Sound familiar?) The unique, full-length side zippers provide levels of ventilation that no other pant can boast, and the gusseted crotch and articulated knees maintain a proper fit throughout your full range of motion. Outdoor Research Foray for him or Aspire for her $200 | outdoorresearch.com

Base layer (for her) These high-impact tights are great for more than looking sassy at indoor yoga classes. Made with Lululemon’s signature fabric, Power Luxtreme, they wick away moisture by spreading it evenly throughout the fabric so it evaporates quicker. Extra ventilation behind the knees helps to keep you cool, no matter how thick your outer layer is. Lululemon Empower Crop leggings | $86 lululemon.com

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Base layer (for him) With ClimaCool protection against the elements and ForMotion 3-D pattern for perfect fit, this base layer is an additional layer to keep your stems warm and dry. Cheaper tights bunch up and chafe, but these tights feature anatomically placed mesh on the back yoke and knees and reduced seams for minimizing rubbing. An elastic waistband means you can even use them – and should use them – after all of that holiday turkey. Adidas Supernova tights | $65 | adidas.ca

Head and hands

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Hat/scarf This versatile headwear transforms into 12 different base layers – cap, scarf, balaclava, pirate, Saharan, bandana, etc. – giving you an abundance of defences against the harsh weather and wind. Used by the Canadian National Ski Team, this microfibre multi-tasker also prevents bacteria growth, absorbs moisture and is wind resistant, all the while coming in enough styles to keep it the prettiest girl at the dance. Buff headwear | $22 | buffcanada.com

Mitts & Gloves Grip your frozen water bottle bare-handed on a cold Eastern Canadian day and you’ll run the rest of the way with whiteknuckled fists in your pockets and swearing profusely. These mitts wick moisture away from your hands, keeping them warm and dry, while the shell protects you from wind chill and water. Use them with a thin pair of fleece gloves underneath for added warmth. Running Room Dryline mitts | $40 | shop.runningroom.com

EXTRAS Little things that make big differences.

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Sport Band In three short years, the Nike+ iPod system has nabbed 1.2 million runners to its pedometer-meets-iPod tag team. To lure non-iPod owners, this device dumps Apple and displays your distance, pace, time and calories burned onto your wrist instead of an iPod. The second half of the system is the comprehensive website that tracks your runs, crunches the numbers and verbally abuses you via email if you’re falling short of your goals. Nike+ SportBand | $65 | nikerunning.com

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POWER TRIP

Modern Montana

A Slice of

Americana Whether you’re a modern cowboy or a thrill-seeking adventurist, there’s room under the Big Sky. By Brian Berusch

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there’s something about “Big Sky” country that appeals to everyone with an affinity for life alfresco. Be it the men who come in droves to emulate Brad Pitt in A River Runs Through It or the women who come in search of him, the throngs of visitors who flock to Montana’s northwest quadrant all seek the same thing: wide-open skies and picturesque panoramas. While I was expecting the same, I had another goal in mind: to tap into my inner (albeit modern) cowboy. When I stepped out of my rental car (not a steed, but there’s only so much time in a day) onto the main drag in downtown Whitefish, I was surrounded by mom-andpop shops, rustic-chic restaurants and art galleries. I also saw more people than ever before wearing 10-gallon hats without the slightest hint of irony. (Probably because they all actually owned horses – and ranches.) In fact, there was so much to look at, it made me think that perhaps Montana had another reason for being nicknamed “Big Sky” country – because there was so much underneath it to take in. I opted for an early start to tour Glacier National Park, the main attraction for visitors in this region, and for good reason. It’s the least trafficked national park of its size in North America; it has the largest population of black bears, and its cerulean-blue, high-altitude lakes surrounded by conifer trees – that even American painter Bob Ross couldn’t emulate – make it downright gorgeous. For me, it was a little more personal; I had been in Glacier when I was a rowdy 14-year-old, and remembered the experience had a humbling effect on my postpubescent ego. Nearly two decades later, here I was again hoping to renew that teenage enlightenment. The following day I decided to kick up the adrenaline with a float trip down the Middle Fork of the Flathead. In lieu of the more family-friendly rafts that bounce through rapids like pinballs (or so I gathered from the montage of photos that adorned the walls of Glacier Raft Company), I go for an inflatable kayak. My hope is to zip through the Class II and Class III rapids of John Stevens Canyon with the precision of a surgeon.

For the tail end of my trip, I geared up for a bit more of the rugged, checking into the Bar W Guest Ranch, just outside of town. The wranglers and ranchers there do for fun what the settlers in the 1800s did to survive – and they do it with style. I saw young families sign up for roping classes, serene meadow horseback rides, even skeet shooting. It’s hard not to get swept away by the flurry of activity that permeates the grounds: flannel-shirted men whipping lassos at wandering steers and ranch hands carrying buckets of water (and who knows what else). Within eyeshot of them, a fellow was fine-tuning an ultra-modern mountain bike and talking about the trails that skirt the ranch’s expansive acreage with a pair of young ladies. Whether it’s the machinery or the girls, I decide to gear up for a mountain-bike ride as well. Shortly after checking in to my Whitetail suite at the rustic-chic main lodge, I’m outfitted with a full-suspension mountain bike and map, and pointed in the direction of a fire road that leads through flower meadows and around Spencer Lake. As the flurry of action at Bar W headquarters slipped out of view, I was empowered by the thin yet crisp air that smelled of fresh pine and spruce. I breathed in deeper and pedalled harder, as the incline told me to do.

Fly into Glacier Park International Airport, 17 km (11 mi) from Whitefish.

PLAN AHEAD

Not 25 minutes later I got was I was asking for—although not quite in the manner I had in mind—from the power of the river: She decides where you go, regardless of vehicle size. But with the thrill of building speed and the spray of fresh, icy mountain water washing over my face again and again (I stopped trying to wipe it away after a dozen times), I began to feel like I understood this extreme waterway and all its bends, bumps and eddies. I stew on the fact that a river’s purpose isn’t to connect A to B. It’s about blending the shoreline with the foliage and softening the rounded rocks that come to rest within it.

Getting there SEASONS

pril through November. Many lodges offer fall A rentals, perfect for family reunions.

Sleep

• At Good Medicine Lodge, where there are only nine rooms available for rent, proprietors Betsy and Woody Cox will give you all the local hospitality you need. In order to segue into contemporary cowboy life, I opted to stay in town for a few days before immersing myself in the wild. The allure of locally sourced breakfast items (veggie omelette and buffalo links, anyone?) anchored me there. goodmedicinelodge.com • There’s no better place to rough it up cowboystyle than at Bar W Guest Ranch. Bring your own boots. thebarw.com

For some odd reason, I wasn’t sweating. I felt as if I were meant to be climbing that hill, as if a greater power were pulling me upward. I passed a plateau filled with tall grass and wildflowers and caught the rear end of what looked like a giant elk. I pedalled on. When I finally reached the crest of Spencer Mountain, I was treated to views that peer back inside Glacier National Park, where this journey all began – and I saw a part of my former self looking back at me. It then occurred to me: It doesn’t matter who you are or your reason for being there, there’s plenty of room under the Big Sky.

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Eat

Go for some good grub in the heart of town at Tupelo Grille. 17 Central Ave., Whitefish tupelogrille.com

Play

• Glacier Guides For fishing and overnight rafting excursions. glacierguides.com • Glacier Raft Company For family trips. glacierraftco.com • Bar W Guest Ranch For roping lessons, horseback riding, skeet shooting and complete mountain biking rentals (see above).

For more

Montana official state travel site: visitmt.com

Mind & BODY

THE

SECRETS OF

-PACK ABS

Flat, well-defined abdominals are certainly beach crowd pleasers, but having conditioned stomach muscles is also (more importantly) a great way to improve your posture, reduce the risks of back problems and improve your body’s overall strength. By Mélanie Lamontagne, Daniel Paré, Kinesiologists; and Pancho Gajo, Physiotherapist

• Dorsolumbar Three long muscles link the cervical and lumbar regions: the Iliocostalis, Longissimus and Spinalis. The extension (straightening) and stabilizing of your body’s trunk (the core region between middle and lower back) are the main functions of this muscle group. • Transversus Abdominis Also called the “transverse,” this is an important support muscle that is key in stabilizing the lumbar vertebral column. It contracts when you pull in your stomach. Weightlifters typically wear belts around this area. Tip: Always work opposing muscle groups at the same time – the lumbar and abdominal muscles, for example. It’s ideal to exercise the weakest muscle group first, as it takes longer to fatigue stronger muscles. For most people, the abs are weaker than the back muscles, so this would mean doing crunches before back extensions.

Your abdominals are 95 percent slow-twitch muscle fibres. You need them to hold up your trunk, particularly in endurance activities like long distance running – as opposed to fast-twitch muscles, which you need for explosive power like sprinting. They are active almost all the time, standing or sitting. (They are only inactive when you are lying down.) Think about this when you are working on your abdominal muscles: They work slowly in a static fashion, so work them out with slow concentrated movements that have little range of motion. Fifty slow quality sit-ups have more positive impact than fifty speedy ones. Even better, be still and hold a stabilizing position for as many counts as possible.

Transverse Obliques Rectus Abdominis

GO SLOW

KNOW THE LINGO

All the stomach muscles work together, so it is important to understand all the pieces of the coveted six-pack puzzle. Any abdominal workout plan should also include exercises that strengthen your lumbar muscles in the lower back. • Rectus Abdominis The object of many fantasies because of its washboard or chocolate bar shape, this muscle links the last set of ribs and the sternum to the pelvis. • Obliques These muscles are those that often get lost beneath the “love handles.” They are attached to the lower ribs and end at the upper part of the pelvis. Their fibres run obliquely, hence the name, and form a V-shape. The obliques get a workout when you make twisting movements at the waist.

CONCENTRATE ON FORM

Remember to always maintain your natural lumbar curve, the slight concave shape of your lower back. It is a matter of learning to simultaneously contract the different muscle groups to ensure the proper stability of the pelvis and lumbar spine. Simply tilting your pelvis isn’t enough: You must make sure to maintain this curve while you are doing your exercises. For proper posture, remember to draw in the navel (contraction of the transverse muscle) and stretch the vertebral column. And never sacrifice proper technique or form for the sake of increasing the intensity or number of repetitions, otherwise you run the risk of developing a muscular imbalance or injuring yourself. Along with the abdominals, another muscle can affect trunk flexion. The Iliopsoas muscle links the last vertebras of the lumbar spinal column to the inside of the front femur. Its powerful contracting strength brings the trunk of the body closer to the thighs by moving the more mobile of the two. The problem occurs when

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it causes you to arch your back. The more tired the abdominal muscles get, the more the Iliopsoas muscle compensates and leads to an arched-back. Avoid this position as it applies pressure on the lumbar discs, placing them under severe strain – another reason to be mindful of your lumbar curve.

PUMP UP YOUR ROUTINE

As with the other muscles, you have to work out the abdominals according to the basic training principles: specific progressive overload. Don’t just stagnate or maintain; you must continuously be tricking and challenging your muscles with new movements because they can get used to a type and level of training. In many training routines, the general tendency favours quantity over quality. While this is definitely better than doing nothing at all, it goes against the overload principal. Always think about increasing the reps or adding weights to make the last repetition difficult. For better results, you should be doing your exercises two or three times per week, with two to three series of 12 to 15 repetitions. If you can do three sets of 15 to 20 reps without any problems, it’s time to bump up your count to 20 or 25. When you can do three sets of 30 no sweat, it’s time to add more resistance – unless you are specifically training for a sport in which muscular endurance of the abdominals is required. Advice: Maintain the same contraction level for each entire set. Rest for a few seconds between sets, but never take a break inside a set, i.e. in a series of two sets of 20 crunches, don’t stop at 15 because you are tired. Push yourself to complete your reps up to 20. This is when your efforts are most effective. Variation tips: • When your back is flat on the floor and the pelvis is the pivot point, the further your limbs are from this pivot, the more resistance you will feel. Doing a sit-up with your hands crossed over your chest, for example, is easier than doing one with your hands over your ears or with your arms extended above your head. For even more resistance, move your upper and lower body at the same time. • To give your abdominal muscles a more intense workout, do your exercises in such a way that instability is forced on the trunk. Instead of laying flat on the floor, support yourself on an exercise ball (see image 1D). A kinesiologist can advise you on a personal progression program. • There are now also a number of group courses that target core muscles and posture. Pilates, a method that utilizes the body’s natural flow and movements, is currently the most popular and very effective. • Beware of the many abdominal devices that are on the market. They might require you to do something that might be different from what is compatible with your anatomy and physical condition.

WATCH YOUR DIET

Your abs are located in an area underneath which the body tends to store fat (a.k.a. the gut), so the effects of abdominal exercises are not always visible. You will have to reduce your body fat percentage to a relatively low level for your abs to be visible. As a general rule, you should include cardio-training in your workouts. Activities such as running and swimming are great for overall fat reduction, and revealing those ab muscles you’ve been exercising.

WORK ALL YOUR ANGLES

A full abdominal program has at least one exercise for every movement of the trunk: ﬂexion, extension, rotation and lateral ﬂexion. (See side bar KEY MOVES below for beginner and advanced examples.)

KEY MOVES FOR

TIGHTER ABS ADVANCED

BEGINNER Rotation

Lateral ﬂexion

Extension

Stabilization

Forward ﬂexion

Training tools s Floor mat: Pilates mats as opposed to yoga mats tend to be thicker and thus better support for the spine s Exercise ball: For optimal results make sure to choose the right size for your height s Resistance equipment: Dumbbells and elastic training bands can increase the difﬁculty of your routine

LAST CALL

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